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Here.woodmagazine. #DP-00084 Page 1 of 13 . we introduced this impressive Arts-and-Crafts Collection with the Morris-style chair shown bottom right.TM DOWNLOADABLE PROJECT PLANS FROM THE EDITORS OF WOOD MAGAZINE http://www.com Arts-and-Crafts Collection Coffee Table and Ottoman In a seperate downloadable plan. we follow suit with this handsome Coffee Table and Ottoman.

wood screws H fi" tenon 3fi" wide x 2fi" long F 18" B 41fi" A D F E H ¤" chamfers 2fi" B D F fi" ¤" ¤" TENON DETAIL A D 2fi" F fi x 2" mortises cut completely through leg C B E fi" tenon 2" wide x 2fi" long fi x 3fi" mortise cut completely through leg E ‹" 4" 3fi" H ‹" ¤" chamfers fi" tenon 3fi" wide x 2fi" long Page 2 of 13 TM .H. wood screws 22fi" C B D 22fi" ‰" slot fl" long 7 64 ⁄ " pilot hole fi" deep ‰" hole G #8 flat washer #8 x 1fi" R.¤" chamfer along top edges 2›" COFFEE TABLE EXPLODED VIEW 17‡" 46" 2› x 2›" notches in all four corners 2›" I 1„" G ¸" hole. countersunk #8 x 1‹" F.H.

Trim to finished size according to the how-to instructions. slats 1‹" fl" fl" ‡" 17‡" D side slats E* spacers F* spacers G cleats H stretchers I* tabletop I 1„ x 7‹ x 96" Oak I I 1„ x 7‹ x 96" Oak *Cut parts marked with an * oversize. 6–#8×1fi" roundhead wood screws with flat washers.Coffee Table Bill of Materials Finished Size Matl. clear finish. Materials Key: LO–laminated oak. Supplies: 6–#8×1‹" flathead wood screws. ‡ x 7‹ x 96" Oak C ctr. COFFEE TABLE CUTTING DIAGRAM G Part T W 2‹" 2‡" 3" A H B L 18" 23" 10" 10" 1‹" 2fi" *C *D A* legs ‡" ›" ›" ›" ›" ‡" ‡" 1„" 22fi" 46" EO 1 4" 46fi" O 2 I 2‹" O O O O 16 O O 2 8 *D LO 4 4 2 8 A B rails TM A ‡ x 9‹ x 96" Oak H B * E and * F *Plane or resaw to the thickness listed in fi x 3fi x 72" Oak the Bill of Materials. Qty. Page 3 of 13 . EO–edge-joined oak. O–oak. stain.

Square-up the use a chamfer bit in it to machine 3 Switch to a wider dado blade on mortises with a chisel. You could the tenon ends. and cut a ›" groove fi" 4 Carefully sand or file the cham7 To assemble the end frames. attach a long also form the mortises with a morwooden extension to your table5 Cut the center slats (C) and nartiser. 2 Fit your tablesaw with a ›" dado blade. choose straight grain or rift-cut 1fi" stock. Using extension to the blade. form tenons on the ends of the slat. transfer 6 Rout a ¤" chamfer along the top stop for consistency. saw’s miter gauge. marked mortises. centered along one edge of fers on both ends of the through start by finding the center (from each rail. where end-to-end) of each rail. Then. for all COFFEE the pieces of this project. (We test-cut scrap stock scrollsaw the openings to shape.) See 1 Cut the upper and lower rails (B) piece of stock to ›" thick by fl" the Tenon detail accompanying wide by 48" long. this strip. we marked the mortisess on the Œ" outside surfaces. (Using these dimensions. F) to length from Materials from ‡" stock. 4 Lay out the mortises on the outside surface of each leg where dimensioned. 4fi" TABLE LEG 1 To form the 2‹"-square legs (A).2‹" Begin by laminating and machining the legs Note: For an authentic look. Drill a blade start hole. F) cut a tenons into the leg mortises. We also drilled from the outside surface so the bit ¤" chamfers along top fi" came through on the inside. See the End Frame drawtenons on the rails (B). and rails (B ). sions. and mark a Page 4 of 13 TM 2‹" . the fi x 2" mortises pieces are oversized cut completely ¤" in width and 1" 3fi" through leg in length so you can trim flush the edges A 18" and ends of the legs later. from three ‡"-thick pieces. 3 Cut or plane an equal amount off both edges of each leg for a 2‹" finished width. your tablesaw.) See the fi x 3fi" mortise cut Leg drawing at right for reference. 2" cut 12 pieces of ‡" stock to 2› by (4 needed) 19". If you brad-point bit. trim both 2" ends of each leg for an 18" finished length. (To ensure any possible chip-out would be on the inside surface and covered by the Legs are laminated rail and stretcher tenon shoulders. With the edges and ends flush. Then. and square the rower side slats (D) to size. preferably white oak. 10" completely through leg 2 Spread an even coat of glue on the mating surfaces of the three pieces making up each leg. Using a the Parts View on Page 8. Machine and assemble first to ensure a tight fit of the the end frames 6 To form the spacers (E. have a small laminate-trim router. crosscut to the sizes listed in the Bill of the End Frame drawing for dimenthe spacers (E. drill holes inside the reference. Using a Á" ing and accompanying detail for shown on the Tenon detail. Then. glue and Œ" clamp the pieces face-to-face to fi" form the four legs. cut rabbets to the cutout location to each center and bottom end of each leg. deep.) and bottom ends of leg Œ" 5 Attach a wood top and fence to your drill-press table.

centered on bottom edge ¤" chamfers along end of tenon F E B fi x 2"-wide tenon 2fi" long 23" ›" groove fi" deep.2fi" COFFEE TABLE END FRAME 2fi" fi x 2"-wide tenon 2fi" long E 18" B 2fi" fl" 1‹" E F TENON DETAIL ¤" fi" ¤" F 10" C D 2fi" ‹" B 2" 2‡" ›" D E 3" 1‹" F fi" ›" groove fi" deep. centered on top edge Page 5 of 13 TM .

Screw the cleats to the inside face of each top rail (B). glue and clamp the end frame. Trim the spacers if necessary. See the Notch detail on the Parts View for reference. keeping the frames square to the stretchers. no glue) the assembly into the leg mortises to check the joinery. 8 Sand the legs and end frame pieces. 4 Glue and clamp the stretchers between the end frames. We used the spacers to center the top on the base when screwing the assemblies together. so you won’t see the cleat when the tabletop is attached later. Then. we found it more manageable to bandsaw TM A After checking the fit of all the pieces. Joint the edges of the four boards so that each measures 5fl" wide. cut or rout ¤" chamfers on the ends of the tenons. B Notice the ¤"-thick spacers between the end-frame legs and tabletop. keeping the top edge of the cleats flush with the top edge of the rails. Note: Because of the weight and size of the tabletop. 3 Cut the stretchers (H) to size. See the Tenon detail accompanying the Exploded View drawing for reference. Add the top rail (B). checking for square as shown in Photo A.centerline across the grain. Mark the centerpoints. Next. fit (again. checking for square. 2 Mark the locations. and drill countersunk holes through each cleat. and machine a pair of screw expansion slots on each cleat where dimensioned on the Parts View drawing. Next. F) and the slats (D). Cut tenons on the ends of the stretchers to fit snug inside the mortises in the legs. Page 6 of 13 . Starting with the center slat (C) centered over the centerline on the bottom rail (B) and working from the center out. Add the cleats and stretchers next 1 Cut the cleats (G) to size. add (no glue) the spacers (E. glue and clamp the two frames together. Edge-join pieces for a solid-stock top 1 Cut four pieces of 1„" stock to 5‡" wide by 47" long. There should be a ¤" gap between the ends of the cleat and the legs.

See 46" Step 2 of the drawing for refer41‹" ence. boards have been glued together. Later remove the clamps. and bandsaw the 2›" notches in each board to shape. Repeat for the remaining I two boards 4 Remove the clamps and scrape off the excess glue. and sand the tabletop smooth. Now. boards together. 2 Mark a centerline across two of 20fl" the boards. Use a framing square to transfer the notch locations onto the second board. again checking to see that the surfaces are flush. Crosscut the ends of both table halves for a 46" Edge-join half of the long finished length. glue and clamp the length (46") after these two two tabletop halves together. Remove the clamps. 46" Place clamp boards on both sides so clamps do not dent the edges of the tabletop.FORMING THE TABLETOP STEP 1 41‹" 20fl" 5fl" 5fl" 2›" STEP 2 Cut notches on outside corners. you’ll need to use a sharp chisel to I square-up the chamfer. Measuring from the center out (you need to do this because the boards are cut long at this point). Page 7 of 13 TM . Now. for the other table half. scrape off the excess glue. as I shown in Step 1 of the Marked centerline three-step drawing at letf. Use bar clamps to keep ends of table halves flush across ends. of the boards. being careful to keep the ends and notches aligned as shown in Step 3 Trim ends to finished of the drawing. mark the locations of the notches on one Mark notch cutlines. Repeat this notches measure 2›" long. On the inside corners of the notches. 5 Rout a ¤" chamfer along the top of the tabletop (I). keeping the surfaces flush. Edge-join table halves together. 3 Edge-join one notched board against a second unnotched board. so that the table. 2›" 2›" STEP 3 the notches before edge-joining the boards. aligning the centerlines. clamp two of the 1„ x 5fl x *47" boards dry-clamped together *Boards initially are cut 1" longer before edge-joining.

) 2 Place a blanket on your workbench top.2›" 2›" 5fl" 46" 41‹" 2›" ¤" chamfer along top edge 5fl" 17‡" I 22fi" 2› x 2›" notches ¤" chamfers I Square inside of routed corner with a chisel. (We used Minwax Provincial #211. then back them off about half a revolution. keeping the gaps around the notches even. then take a close look at it. and clear-coat the table 1 Finish-sand the table base and tabletop. You want the screws to be able to move back and forth in the slots as the table- top expands and contracts with seasonal humidity changes. (We sanded with 100-. and screw the assemblies together as. a good choice for imitating that time period. in our case a halogen. see our Arts-and-Crafts fumeless finish article in the November 1998 issue of WOOD® starting on page 74. (We brushed on several coats of satin polyurethane. Center the base (also upside down) on the tabletop. using a bright light. tighten them. stain. ¤" A TABLETOP 2›" TOP VIEW 2›" ¤" NOTCH DETAIL 1‹" 1" ‹" ‹" R=›" G 5‹" Ottoman 10" Coffee table COFFEE TABLE PARTS VIEW CLEATS (2 needed) ‰" slot fl" long ›" ‡" 8Œ" 1" fl" ‰" hole 1" TOP VIEW ¸" holes. countersunk ›" fl" C CENTER SLAT COFFEE TABLE AND OTTOMAN (2 needed each) 3" ‡" fi" 8Œ" 17‡" 7Œ" fi" SIDE VIEW Finish-sand. and place the tabletop TM (I) upside down on the blanket.) Or. drill pilot holes into the bottom side of the tabletop. Apply the finish. 3 Stain as desired. shown in Photo B.) ¿ Page 8 of 13 . 150-. Using the holes and slots in the leg cleats as guides. and finally 220-grit sandpaper. Another method we use to check for sanding marks is to lighlty damped the surface with lacquer or paint thinner. Center the screws in the slots. at a low angle to check the surfaces for sanding marks.

slats D side slats E* spacers F* spacers G stretchers H cleats I slats T 2‹" ‡" ›" ›" ›" ›" ‡" ‡" ›" W 2‹" 2‡" 3" 1‹" fl" fl" 4" ‡" 1‹" L 18" 5‹" 5‹" 1‹" 2fi" 24" 19" 14fi" Qty. build the ottoman shown here. O O O O O O O O Part A* legs B rails C ctr. Written by Marlen Kemmet Project Design: Charles I. finish. Materials Key: LO–laminated oak. See the Parts View drawing on Page 8 for part C. Trim to finished size according to the how-to instructions. or the finished project to the buyer. O–oak. the design. See the Ottoman Bill of Materials below for part sizes. Page 9 of 13 TM . 4 2 4 8 8 2 2 8 Finished Size 12‹" LO 4 The purchase of these plans does not transfer any copyright or other ownership interest in the plans. *Cut parts marked with an * oversize. See the Cushion Parts View on Page 13 for the material layout for the cushion. Lorna Johnson Photography: Scott Little. Supplies: 20–#8×1" flathead brass wood screws. Hedlund Illustrations: Kim Downing.Using a construction procedure like that of the coffee table. Hetherington Graphic Design: Jamie Downing ©Copyright Meredith Corporation 1999 Ottoman Bill of Materials Matl. Buyer may neither reproduce the plans for sale nor offer for sale any copies of the finished project. 6–#8×1‹" flathead wood screws. stain.

centered on top edge OTTOMAN END FRAME Page 10 of 13 TM . centered on bottom edge 1‹" F fi" ¤" chamfers along end of tenon B 18" ›" groove fi" deep. 2fi" B 2fi" fi" tenon 2" wide x 2fi" long 1‹" F E F fl" TENON DETAIL ¤" fi" ¤" C D ›" 5‹" 2fi" ‹" B 2" 2‡" D 3" E F ›" groove fi" deep.OTTOMAN CUTTING DIAGRAM A A A ‡ x 5fi x 96" Oak B H G H G ‡ x 7‹ x 96" Oak *C *I *I *I * E and * F *I 2fi" *D fi x 3fi x 96" Oak 13" *Plane or resaw to the thickness listed in the Bill of Materials.

2‹" fi" 2" 2‹" 3fi" fi x 2" mortises cut completely through leg 5‹" A 3fi" 12‹" 2" Œ" fi" OTTOMAN LEG (4 needed) fi x 3fi" mortise cut completely through leg Legs are laminated from three ‡"-thick pieces. OTTOMAN CUSHION (VIEW FROM BOTTOM) Page 11 of 13 TM . Œ" fi" Œ" ¤" chamfer along top and bottom ends of leg Nylon-backed vinyl #4 steel zipper 5fi" high-density (we used high resiliently 23 pound (HR23) foam) Cushion-eze Bondtek #5 or what may be available in your area (to keep batting from sticking to vinyl or fabric) Piping ›" batting (we used Dacron) ‹ x 10 x 16" plywood (cushion held in place with screws in ottoman) Buff edges.

countersunk 17fi" D B A I 1‹" F B G H 1fl" 14fi" ¸" shank hole.H. brass wood screw 1‹" ¸" shank hole. wood screw F C 2fi" F D B 19" 24" fi" ¤" ¤" TENON DETAIL 2fi" B E 13" ‹" 4" 3fi" G fi x 2" mortises cut completely through leg A fi" tenon 2" wide x 2fi" long ‹" fi x 3fi" mortise cut completely through leg ¤" chamfers ¤" chamfer fi" tenon 3fi" wide x 2fi" long Page 12 of 13 TM .OTTOMAN EXPLODED VIEW ›" I I #8 x 1" F. countersunk on bottom #8 x 1" F.H.H. brass wood screws (to attach cushion in place) 7⁄64" pilot holes fi" deep fi" tenon 3fi" wide x 2fi" long ¤" chamfers 12‹" F E C E A H A 2fi" G #8 x 1‹" F.

16›" CUSHION PARTS VIEW 5" 21" R=1Œ" fi" seam allowance END PATTERN (2 needed) Note: Checking with upholsterers around the country. Measure fullsized patterns to verify size. We recommend providing our drawings and your chair to your upholsterer. we learned that the supplies and the thickness of materials vary greatly. and having them make the cushion to fit your chair. FULL-SIZE HALF PATTERN Centerline fi" seam allowance To ensure full-sized patterns are correct size. ‹ (Flop full-size half pattern for marking adjoining pattern. your printer should be set to print at 100% (not fit to page). 5fi" high-density foam 15" Material for piping (2 needed) 1fi" 40" #4 steel zipper fi" seam allowance 4Å" 5ˇ" 5ˇ" 39fi" 5ˇ" 5ˇ" 4Å" 20‹" 21‹" CUSHION PATTERN Centerlines See full-size half pattern below.) fi ‡ 1" SCALE Page 13 of 13 TM . Align pattern on centerlines.

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