european

The essenTial monThly lifesTyle magazine

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sep ’08

bum ion edit

2ndR e

viva cold play! +

5 free tickets to

Plus!

RydeR cup 2008

naples GIRLS IN MADRID racism in spain? DANDY WARHOLS INTERVIEW anD lOTs mOre!

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editorial
contEnts 04 Bits & Pieces & Best of tHe BLoG 06 WHAt’s oN 08 ViBes - ZiA MccABe 09 ViBes - WHAt’s oN cALeNdAr 10 ViBes - coLdPLAy 11 ViBes - dJ cosy o 12 PArty PHotos & suBscriPtioNs 14 euro WeekeNder - NAPLes 16 WeekeNder - VitoriA 18 cuLture - trAVeL eVeNts 2008/2009 20 Books - tHe Murder At roAd HiLL House 22 discoVer MAdrid red tAPe 24 MAP it out 26 eAt out Guide 28 BAr cHAt - HArd rock 30 fiLM first 32 sPort - ryder cuP & sPorts diAry 34 sPort - NfL 2008-2009 36 cuLture - tHe rAcisM, iN sPAiN, fALLs MAiNLy oN tHe PitcH? 39 discoVer MAdrid - GirLs iN MAdrid, A surViVAL Guide 40 cuLture - feeLiNG Goodto Be sPANisH? 41 LiNGostAr 43 serVices
European Vibe Entertainment fernando el católico 63, local 1 28015 Madrid EnquiriEs Tel: 91 549 7711 Fax: 91 549 7711 Email: info@europeanvibe.com Editor Luc Ciotkowski editor@europeanvibe.com Lingo star Editor Susana López lingostar@europeanvibe.com art Editor Philip McIvor design@europeanvibe.com MEdia & dEsign Ferdi Loskamp ferdi@europeanvibe.com advErtising Aifric O’Reilly (91 549 7711) sales@europeanvibe.com adMinistrator Tomek Przybyszewski tomek@europeanvibe.com sEnior pr & proMotions Mitchell Vine promotions@europeanvibe.com MarkEting John Folorunso Managing dirEctor Scott Edwards scott@europeanvibe.com EvEnt coordinator Sam Lee sam@europeanvibe.com Logistics & distribution Rossen Angelov distribution@europeanvibe.com prooFrEading Will cade & tomek Przybyszewski staFF and bLog writErs Peter Moore, ryan craggs, Martin Brown, Nicki Mcintyre, Abha Malpani, Harry Watkinson, Will cade, Martin Quinn cartoon Joe Hodgson intErns Helen Macrae, katie chavez & elena López Busón

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ryder naples cup coldplay

it’s september... and that can only mean one thing – the metro game is back! Never mind your european championships and your olympics, this is the sport that bursts onto the scene again this month for every subterranean rail network traveller in Madrid. the rules are easy, though you’ll need to accumulate experience and skill to become a consistent contender. you can play the game on your way to work, university, home or wherever you are going on the metro. What you do is learn which door of which carriage will be closest to the exit at your destination or connecting station. you enter the metro train by that door and loiter by it until your stop. When you get out, you walk as fast as you can without breaking into a run and a million points go to the first person on the escalator! if you make it there first, you can scream, “yesss!” triumphantly in your head and allow yourself a smug glance back at the suckers you’ve left in your wake. if you don’t get there first, you can trundle up the escalotor, your pride in tatters, before you console yourself that it was probably better that you lost a game clearly devised by, and played by, obsessive compulsives. you’re better than that, you’re just alleviating the boredom of the daily metro ride, aren’t you? Be warned: this city can make you do strange things... Welcome to, or welcome back to, Madrid and european Vibe Magazine for our second anniversary edition! i hope you had a great summer wherever you were. i did, i got married here in Madrid to european Vibe’s lingostar! Brilliant it was. Madrid is a great city, and we’re here to help you discover it, while keeping you abreast of what is happening from month to month in music, film, books, travel, sport and culture. each month, we feature bars, a restaurant guide, a metro map and a services guide to orient you in the Mighty Bear or what the romans called Ursaria.

Two-year-old party animal

aDVerTising/puBliCiDaD tel: 91 549 7711 e-mail: sales@europeanvibe.com podcast
You can now listen to and download all new European Vibe Magazine articles through the embedded player on the article pages of http://www.europeanvibe.com or on our podcast page http://europeanvibe.podomatic.com

As we say our hellos to everyone, we’ve got a loving farewell to wish our sales director Aifric o’reilly, who has done a fantastic job for the last year and a half. We’ll all miss Aifi, best of luck in London! enjoy september in Madrid! Luc

If you find the bully logo in one of our featured adverts, send us an email to bully@europeanvibe.com and you could win one of 5 free tickets to weekend dance courtesy of Sinnamon Promotions!! Last issue’s bully was hiding in the Hotel Emperador advert, on page 19. Congratulations to last month’s winner, Maria Pons. Maria won a day’s pampering at Medina Mayrit, including a free meal, a massage and entry to the oriental dance show. Get searching!

WHere’s BuLLy?

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sep 08

rEpro/printEr Artes Gráficas Hono sL July 2008 Depósito legal: M-59116-2006

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bits & pieces
1 2 3 4 5 6 9 10

crossWord 10
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ACROSS
1 5 9 10 11 12 14 15 17 18 20 21 Partitioned part of a room (7) Permitted (7) Porcelain (5) the spirit of the time (9) incentive (10) scheme (4) Manage; control (6) type of local area network (8) Go into solution (8) Merchant (6) on a single occasion (4) composed for a large group of musicians (10) Without definite limits (4-5) Banish (5) faithfulness (7) enchantresses (7)
Problems with the crossword?
find the answers on our blog: www.europeanvibeblog.com

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BLOG
of the

Best

Here’s the first of Helen Macrae’s Madrid For Free series of posts:

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1 retIro It up Madrid’s number one park is huge, easy to get to and, best of all, completely free. Go on a Sunday and count how many kids you can spot trussed up in their Sunday best after church (double points for any siblings in matching outfits) or have a laugh at all the people sweltering in their rubbish Spiderman/Mickey Mouse costumes. If you really want to blend in with the madrileños, wear beige or, if you’re feeling fancy, a bit of gold (weekend beige). 2 SNog While you’re down at the Retiro you might as well do as the Spanish do and have a good old snog. Just grab your partner, find a highly visible park bench and go for it! See how long you can manage without coming up for air, or perhaps try testing how amorous you can get (bonus points for any removal of clothes!) before someone comes over to tell you off/you’re thrown out by park security. If you don’t have a lady or fella to snog, then fear not, just try our next tip which is... 3 Stroll doWN Calle lavapIéS Take a walk down this street in our favourite barrio and you will more than likely get a few lecherous comments shouted at you by willing suitors. If none of them take your fancy, head into one of the many curry houses instead and see if you can sweet-talk your way into some free poppadums. 4 explore the dark SIde If all the romance is just too much or you’ve recently had an unpleasant break-up and are feeling particularly bitter, head back to the Retiro and annoy some snogging couples by throwing twigs/stones/frozen peas at them. Make sure you’re well-hidden before you start and plan your escape route should things get nasty. 5 Be Cultured Find out when the various art galleries do their freebie days and try to pass for an arty type (beret optional). Since it’s free the place will probably be heaving with both Madrileños and foreigners alike, but while you’re queueing you can play everybody’s favourite game ’Guess the nationality’ to while away the time. 6 try the SWapSIeS market Not technically free, but if you do want to buy something from this market (unlikely) it won’t cost you more than a couple of cents. The stallholders set out their wares (i.e. tat they’ve found in a dustbin) just over the road from Atocha station most days in the early evening, and therein ensues a frenzy of bartering until the police show up and everyone gets moved along.

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BLOG

1 spiny, succulent plants (5) reactions in the body (6) 8 initiating explosive 2 co-operative savings and 5 disaffect; estrange (8) device (9) loan organisation (8,7) 6 racing sled where riders 13 contemplation of the 3 Honorary head of a lie on their backs (4) past (10) university (10) 7 Member of a Muslim order 14 speed boat raised out of 4 Protein catalysing of ecstatic dancers (8,7) the water by vanes (9)

DOWN

16 ordinary; commonplace (8) 19 dark shape cast by the sun (6) 22 city in West yorkshire (5) 23 shout (4)

SUDOKU
5 4 3 5 3 4 6 3 9 2 1 9 6 7 8 5 8 3

eAsy PuZZLe 10
9 7 4 3 5 9 8 1 6 2 9 7 2 9 6 8 4 8 9 5 2 8 3 8 3

HArd PuZZLe 10
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Read more on the blog! www.europeanvibeblog.com

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sep 08

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madrid agenda compiled in collaboration with esmadrid

what’s on?
CulTural TheaTre/DanCe
‘BARROCO’ (BAROqUe) the well-known playwright and theatre director tomaz Pandur, who offers a complete approach to the Western world in a shelter, the day before this cataclysm, which brought reference it also has the unforgettable film of 1978 which starred John travolta and olivia Newton-John. Starting: 30/09/2008 Ending: 30/06/2009 Venue: Nuevo teatro Alcalá Price: from 22 € to 58 € Metro: Goya/ Príncipe de Vergara which became the longest-playing show on Broadway and won 12 tony awards. As a

exhiBiTions
MIRO: eARTH An analysis of Miró’s most grounded art the thyssen-Bornemisza Museum presents a new show that proposes an itinerary around

On Saturday 13th September, Madrid is going to leave the lights on all night, and nobody is going to stay home...
if you didn’t know already, spanish people don’t really need much of an excuse to stay up all night. so, Madrid city council’s La Noche en Blanco is quite like a red rag to a thoroughbred male bovine with anger management issues and a particular hatred of rags that are red. this will be its third time in the spanish capital and the event has spread to cities all over europe and the world after starting in Paris in 2002. translated literally as ‘White Night’, La Noche En Blanco really means ‘sleepless Night’ or ‘All Nighter’, and that’s exactly what it is. from dusk till dawn, or at least from 9pm until 7am, Madrid’s streets and plazas will remain lit up as over 150 arts activities take place free of charge around the city. With the big night happening on saturday 13th september, temperatures should be pleasant for attendees, who are expected to run into the hundreds of thousands. special buses are laid on to ferry all the nocturnal culture vultures from venue to venue. the focus is on contemporary art and, while the mainstay will be art exhibitions (all the museums are free to get into) with paintings and photography, there will be all kinds of art forms from light shows to theatre and cinema to music concerts. one of the main attractions will be a tribute show to honour the master director Pedro Almodóvar. two artists will perform the most iconic songs from the soundtracks of his films. the reality of La Noche En Blanco is a little chaotic, as thousands of people out for the event will join the regular saturday night crowd in the bars at some point, but it does make for a big party atmosphere. the fact that some families decide to drag out their poor exhausted brats is pretty annoying, especially when you’re in a big queue stuck behind some children for whom the novelty of staying up late wore off about two hours ago and now they’re going to let everyone know how tired and cranky they are. the odds of getting a taxi between 4:00 and 5:30 are about the same as winning the spanish christmas Lottery, so it’s a walk, a night bus or crossing your fingers if you decide to go home between those times. if you can put up with the crowds, though, there’s some really cool stuff going on. something i like is seeing the museum-types stopping off at a bar and looking, well, about as at home as i do in a museum. But that’s the whole idea, and i already know that come that saturday, i’ll be looking at an attraction at some point making a tipsy promise with my friends to try and get to a new exhibition every week... Whatever you make of the many different attractions, this is unlikely to be the last sleepless night you spend in Madrid, but it could well be one of the more memorable ones.

about the french revolution.While outside that shelter the world starts to fall apart after millenniums of evolution of the structures that used to keep it up, the silk starts to get spoiled and it is torn into pieces due to fear and poverty. Starting: 10/09/2008 Ending: 27/09/2008 Venue: teatro fernán Gómez (centro de Arte) Price: 18 € Metro: colón LAS TROYANAS (THe TROjANS) Having inaugurated the classical theatre festival of Mérida, one of the most exciting

ConVenTions
CIBeLeS MADRID FASHION WeeK Madrid will accomodate the 48th edition of Pasarela cibeles, the main showcase for spanish fashion which bears comparison

Miró’s art ranging from 1918, when he had his first individual show, to the year he passed away, 1983. the show focuses on topics that appeared recurrently in his art: earth, his loyalty to the rural and pagan world and his fascination with excess, fertility and death. Ending: 14/09/2008 Venue: Museo thyssen-Bornemisza Price: 4 € Metro: Banco españa eDWARD STeICHeN. A pHOTOGRApHIC epIC this retrospective has become the most complete exhibition of the work of one of the key figures in the history of photography. Ending: 22/09/2008 Venue: Museo Nacional centro de Arte reina sofía (MNcArs) Price: 4 € free entry: saturday, 2:30pm to 9pm; sunday, 10am to 2:30pm. Metro: Atocha

and beautiful classical tragedies comes to Matadero Madrid, directed by Mario Gas. Ending: 28/09/2008 Venue: Matadero Madrid Price: 22 € Metro: Legazpi BeAUTY AND THe BeAST the disney classic becomes a magnificent musical, loaded with magic and poetry. Ending: 07/09/2008 Venue: teatro coliseum (Gran Vía, 78) Price: 19,90 € Metro: Plaza de españa

with those in Paris and Milan. designers from all over the country will be presenting their ideas for the spring-summer 2009 with the objective to open up markets all over the world. Starting: 15/09/2008 Ending: 19/06/2009 Venue: ifema-feria de Madrid Price: on invitation Metro: campo de las Naciones

exhiBiTion

DON’T MISS

musiCals
HIGH SCHOOL MUSICAL ‘High school Musical’ is a brand new music showwith songs, dances and a team inspired

Tesoros suMergidos de egiPTo (eGYpT’S SUNKeN TReASUReS)
this exhibition started in April, but now is your last chance to see this unique set of artefacts that Ancient egypt lost to the sea over a thousand years ago. A series of natural disasters washed away large lumps of canopus, the ancient port of Alexandria and the entire city of Heracleion to the bottom of the sea near the modern egyptian city of Alexandria. franck Goddio and his team had to use cutting edge technology to bring these treasures that date as far back as the seventh century Bc to the surface. As well as seeing ancient monuments, statues, cult objects, jewellery and coins, you can learn about the methods used in marine archaeology. it’s best to go on a weekday if you can. Ending: 28/09/2008 Venue: Matadero de Legazpi Madrid (Paseo de la chopera, 14) Price: 11 € Metro: Legazpi

on the popular disney channel films ‘High school Musical’ and ‘High school Musical 2’. the musical includes surprises, namely, two new songs, which did not appear in the original film. Starting: 25/09/2008 Ending: 25/12/2008 Venue: teatro Lope de Vega Price: from 35,92 € to 48,60 € Metro: santo domingo GReASe, eL MUSICAL De TU VIDA ‘Grease, el musical de tu vida’ (Grease, the musical of your life) is a faithful version of the original Broadway show that reproduces its stage design, its plot and its songs. this big format musical is intended for all publics and it brings the charm of the fifties back to the present; it is an amazing show, with numerous actors on stage. the screenplay was inspired by the original by Jim Jacobs and Warren casey in 1971

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sep 08

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madrid agenda compiled in collaboration with esmadrid

what’s on?
CHApLIN IN IMAGeS using 300 documents including photographs, posters and film fragments, the show narrates lines 33 & 65. Tel: 91 463 2900 e-mail: parque@grpr.com pLANeTARIO De MADRID Avda. del Planetario, 16. Tel: 91 467 34 61 Metro: Méndez Álvaro. closed Mondays WARNeR BROS pARK open daily from June to Mid-september and on chosen weekends and holidays during the rest of the year. call to confirm opening times. take the bus from Legazpi Plaza or the train from Atocha Tel: 902 024 100 www.warnerbrospark.com

musiC fesTiVal

DON’T MISS

MeTRO ROCK
if you have become a spanish pop/rock addict in your time in Madrid, or if you’d like to initiate yourself in spanish music, Madrid’s complutense university plays host to the third Metro rock festival. Moving to september to avoid competition with the giant rock in rio, this year’s Metro rock doesn’t have the big international names like franz ferdinand or My chemical romance that it has had on previous occasions, instead going for big names in spanish music. Andrés calamaro will headline, and Melendi and Los delinqüentes will also feature on the main stage. However, there are some big names in electronic music in the dance area: felix da Housecat is top of the bill there, and Alexander kowalski, stereo Mc’s, dorian and the Whip all have sets, too. Absolute bargain if you’ve got a ucM card or carnet joven. Date: 20/09/2008 Venue: complejo deportivo de cantarranas, ucM Price: 40 € (25€ with carnet ucM or carnet Joven) if this is not your bag, check out the festiVAL surforAMA at taboó in the heart of Malasaña. it’s on both friday 19th and saturday 20th and its the first surfer rock festival ever to come to Madrid. Among others, you’ll be able to catch the brilliantly named Laika & the cosmonauts. Like, totally.
musiC fesTiVal

the story of charles chaplin –the actor and the public figure–, from the creation of the character the tramp to the end of his career. Ending: 19/10/2008 Venue: Museo thyssen-Bornemisza Price: free Metro: Atocha THe ReNAISSANCe pORTRAIT: FROM pISANeLLO TO RUBeNS the show traces the development of portrait painting during the period in which this

sporT
ReAL MADRID estadio santiago Bernabéu. Avenida de concha espina, 1. Tel: 91 398 43 00 www.realmadrid.es ATLeTICO MADRID estadio Vicente calderón. Paseo Virgen del Puerto, 67. Metro: Pirámides. Tel: 91 366 47 07 www.clubatleticodemadrid.com CB eSTUDIANTeS BASKeTBALL Madrid Arena, serrano 127, 28006 Madrid Tel: 902 400 002 www.clubestudiantes.com ReAL MADRID CB Pabellon raimundo saporta, Paseo de La castellana, Madrid. Tel: 91 398 43 32, or check out www.realmadridbasket.galeon.com

genre was born and flourished, the 15th and 16th centuries, and includes masterpieces which are representative of the achievements attained in artistic circles both in northern and southern europe. Ending: 07/09/2008 Venue: Museo Nacional de el Prado Price: 8 € free entry tuesday to saturday, 6pm to 8pm, and sunday 5pm to 8pm. Metro: Atocha

fun aCTiViTies
AeROBALAS SKY-DIVING SCHOOL - Aerodromo de casa de los Pinos, cuenca. tandem parachute jumps from 110 euros. call 610 408 831 or 667 512 102 www.aerobalas.com pALACIO De HIeLO - skating rink, bowling lanes and cinema. c silvano, 77, Parque conde de orgaz. Metro: canillas zOO-AqUARIUM De MADRID casa de campo Metro: casa de campo. Tel: 91 512 3770. Adults: 14.90 €. children 3-7 years old and pensioners: 12.20 €. children under 3: free entry. SKI-KAMeL SpORTOUR. c feijoo,9, on the corner with c cardenal cisneros, 72 (Quevedo). Tel: 91 446 0221. www.skikamel.com

WeeKeND DANCe
Just when you thought your summer’s dancing to superstar dJs at the macro-clubs of ibiza, Majorca or wherever, were over... the organisers of summercase and forward festival bring the last big dance/ electronic music festival of the year to Madrid. the star-studded confirmation list includes fatboy slim, Groove Armada dJs, the Prodigy, isis, tiga and robyn. originally planned for saturday 13th, the festival organisers had to get special permission to switch the dates to avoid a clash with Madrid’s La Noche en Blanco. if it’s your kind of music, you can’t let this one pass you by. Date: 12/09/2008 Venue: Auditorio Juan carlos i Price: 55 €

museums
ReINA SOFíA (santa isabel, 52) Metro: Atocha Open: Monday to saturday 10.00 until 21.00. sundays 10.00 until 14.00. tuesdays closed. MUSeO DeL pRADO (Paseo del Prado s/n) Metro: Atocha Open: tuesday to sunday from 9.00 until 19.00. Mondays closed. MUSeO THYSSeN BORNeMISzA (Paseo del Prado, 8) Metro: Atocha, Banco de españa. tuesday to sunday from 9.00 until 19.00. Mondays closed.

DON’T MISS

nighT life
VIBe the party @ Star Café Now legendary international party with Hip Hop and rnB music taking place every Wednesday night at star café , serrano Jover 5, Metro Argüelles. open Bar of beer, sangria and wine and beer pong games from 11:30 pm - 12.30 am for only 5 euros. from 12:30 till close, entrance with 2 drinks included for 10 euros. Get on the guest list at www.europeanvibe.com FeVeR @ joy eslava the ultimate student Party. every thursday night Madrid’s most famous club becomes a disco sensation with spectacular animation and the best music from the 1970s till present day. free entrance or 2 drinks for 10 euros from midnight till 1:30 am, or entrance price with 2 drinks for 12 euros from 1:30 am till close. Joy eslava, calle Arenal 11, Metro sol / Ópera. Get on the guest list at www.europeanvibe.com SUGAR @ Lokua every saturday night from 12:30am Lokua opens its doors and becomes the number one urban club in the city. check out this truly spectacular affair with visiting international dJs and performers. Lokua club, La Glorieta de Principe Pio, Metro Príncipe Pío. Get on the guest list at www.europeanvibe.com

Quizzes
ANYWAY pUB qUIz NIGHTthursday from 23.00 in Anyway Pub. Viriato, 64. Metro: iglesia. IRISH ROVeR every monday at 21:00, upstairs in the library. Join us to spark up a brain cell after the weekend. Avenida del Brasil, 7. Metro: santiago Bernabeau. j&j BOOKS AND COFFee Pub quiz, every friday night at 11pm. Metro: Noviciado. MOOReS Pub quiz in english every Monday at 21.45 in Moores irish Pub, calle Barcelo. Lots of prizes and great fun. everyone welcome. Metro: tribunal.

Theme parks
pARqUe De ATRACCIONeS (fun fair) open Weekends. Metro: Batán. Bus

www.europeanvibe.com

sep 08

7

vibes

The Dandy Warhols

[the lead singer] because I don’t really know how that happened. The Mission Control video is so sick, we teleport down onto the moon and we’re in our space suits playing our instruments, Courtney looks like this German drag queen… Do your audiences differ much from country to country? Definitely, every country is different, every city. I loved playing Benicássim, it’s a really cool festival. Paris was a tough nut to crack, but we’ve really broken through and created a really hip fanbase there. Mexico was pretty cool, we opened for The Strokes there, it was really neat. And Australia is one of our best audiences, those guys just love to have fun, they’re so rowdy. England’s actually the main country where it became such a hyped thing that I played topless, we were at this festival and I started hearing this chanting, “Get yer tits out for the lads”, and it’s getting louder and louder, the whole crowd. Courtney finally saved the day, he takes his shirt off, and goes, “Are you happy now?” It was the press that blew it so out of proportion though, we like playing there, we love London. What would be your ideal gig? Well, it’s nice to be in a beautiful venue, really good lighting, really hip crowd, really good sound out front, really good sound on stage, but there’s always one of those things missing. But when people get to a level where it’s so professional that they have the same thing every time I think you lose the plot a little bit and start to nitpick. When I have a hangover my shows are always way better because you need it to be good so bad because you’re all fragile, and you’re like this has to rock, and so you really go for it. But if you’re all rested-up then your mind starts to wander. Have you ever played any really weird gigs? Oh yeah, the worst one was in Chile. It was like a hockey arena with some local bands, us and Chris Cornell, so we are opening for hardcore Chris Cornell fans. We’re playing and it sounds awesome, we’re having a really good time, and I’m like, “Wow we’ve never been booed before, this is so weird!” It didn’t hurt my feelings thank God, if we were playing bad I probably would have felt awful, but it sounded good so we just kept playing. I think maybe one out of every 100 was a fan, we were seriously outnumbered, it was brutal. That was the weirdest show by far.

The dandy Warhols’ bassist and keyboard player, Zia Mccabe, took some time out from her dJ set at Madrid’s supersonic and ‘one big night out per tour’ to hang with our writer Helen Macrae.
WORDS & INTERVIEW by HElEN MaCRaE

Zia McCabe
in argüelles, she gave me the low-down on life as a dandy. Helen: Can you sum up the new album for me in a couple of sentences? Zia: It’s really eclectic. It’s the first record we’ve made where we’ve taken all the songs that didn’t end up on records, that were kind of forgotten. It’s been 14 years now, so the riff for this one or that one actually might have been written several years ago. It’s kinda cool that we’ve been around long enough to have all these old ones. And it’s the second record we’ve made at The Odditorium [the band’s Portland studio], we’ve never made two records at the same studio before. Was it a good experience recording there? Oh it’s awesome, because most studios are so bad they’ve got maybe a mini-fridge with a coffee pot sitting on top, and some crusty old couch that everyone’s supposed to share. So this is just, it’s so decked-out. We took our video budget and instead of just building a cheap set you can tear down, we put in this industrial stainless steel kitchen and shot the video in there. Why did you decide on an outer space theme for the new album? You need to ask Courtney

laying together since 1994, portland-based quartet The dandy Warhols recently released their sixth studio album, titled …earth To The dandy Warhols… you’re probably more familiar with their music than you think you are: songs such as Boys Better, We used To Be Friends and the insanely catchy Bohemian like you have become ingrained in pop culture after being featured on anything and everything, from film and TV soundtracks to computer games and mobile phone adverts. When I met up with the band’s bass player, Zia, she was extremely chatty and down-to-earth, and as she picked her way through a plate of pineapple chunks in the surroundings of supersonic club

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sep 08

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madrid agenda compiled in collaboration with esmadrid

what’s on?

forMuLA oNe footBALL ruGBy uNioN

SUNday 31 aUgUSt
The Locust + Grabba Grabba Tape La Boite

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moNday

September
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tUeSday

WedNeSday tHUrSday FrIday 3 4 5

SatUrday 6
Georgia v rep of ireland, spain v Bosnia-Herzegovina
Andorra v england,

start of La Liga season

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Coldplay

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croatia v england, Montenegro v rep of ireland, spain v Armenia

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tri Nations - Aus v NZ

GAA - All-ireland Hurling final Belgian Grand Prix

Liverpool v Man utd

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The Wombats

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Beatles la Leyenda teatro Häagen-dazs calderón

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Killing joke

1 7

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Ben Vaughn

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ryder cuP
Mala Suerte

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Lykke Li La Fuga

real Madrid v Numancia italian Grand Prix

champions League

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The Hellacopters

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Living Colour Beatles la Leyenda teatro Häagen-dazs calderón

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Getafe v Atletico Madrid, real Madrid v sporting Gijon

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Najwajean Manolo García Raimundo Amador

GAA - All-ireland football final
RpWL + Thay Khay sala ritmo y compás

chelsea v Man utd

Glitter Klinik Glenn Hughes Barricada + Rosendo + Aurora Beltrán Plaza de toros Las Ventas Axxis + Arwen

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everton v Liverpool

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pimpinela teatro Häagen-dazs calderón

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R.e.M. Plaza de toros Las Ventas Los piojos

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Backyard Babies Mago de Oz

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Tequila pink Tones - A pink Floyd Live Show

singapore Grand Prix

Atletico Madrid v sevilla

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Barcelona v Atletico Madrid, real Madrid v espanyol
Y and T

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Los Secretos. 30 Años estopa - Gira Allenrok de Canciones Combate Rock (Reincidentes / Antonio Vega + jose Plaza de toros Las Ventas porretas y Sonora) Mark Sultan Aka BBq Mª Granados / Mama porcupine Tree

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Sala Heineken c Princesa, 1, (www.ticktackticket.com, 90 215 0025) joy eslava c Arenal, 11 (913 665 439) Sala el Sol c Jardines 3. Metro: sol (www.elsolmad.com 91 532 6490) Sala Live Ntra sra. de fátima 42. Metro eugenia de Montijo. (91 525 54 44) Gruta’77 c cuclillo, 6 (esquina nicolás morales), 28019 Metro: oporto (91 471 23 70)

7th September Palacio de Deportes Comunidad de Madrid

tHe WombatS
14th September Sala Heineken

palacio de Deportes de la Comunidad de Madrid Avenida de felipe ii, s/n (www.servicaixa.com 902 33 22 11) La Riviera Pº Bajo de la Virgen del Puerto, (www.servicaixa.com 902 33 22 11) Moby Dick Avda. de Brasil, 5 Metro: cuzco / santiago Bernabeu (www.ticktackticket.com, 902 15 00 25) Sala Caracol c Bernardino obregón 18 ( , 902 15 00 25) Telefónica Arena Madrid Metro: Line 10 (Lago) Line 6 (Alto de extremadura) www.telefonicaarenamadrid.com

1st october Plaza de Toros Las Ventas

Coldplay
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sep 08

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coldplay:
B
Nadie es profeta en su tierra (a prophet hath no honour in his own country) is what the spanish might say. playing here in Madrid this month, coldplay have become one of the biggest bands in the world, but have struggled for years to shake off criticism from the music industry itself. peter Moore explains how they don’t think you’re cool if you’ve been to school.
WORDS by PETER MOORE

The inDie inTerlOpers

uzzing with tingles of anticipation, tens of thousands of festivals-goers groaned over their morning toast on 19th June 2002 as they discovered the list of headlining acts for that year’s Glastonbury Festival. There was washed up ‘mocker’ rod stewart, Kelly Jones from the stereophonics, who sounded as if someone had just taken a cheese grater to his throat, and worst of all coldplay: a miserable collection of middle class students with a singer that moaned whilst hunched over his piano. Just the previous year david Bowie had graced the pyramid stage and immediately prior to him there had been reM, radiohead and the Manic street preachers. This year the organisers of Glastonbury, that mystic diamond amongst British festivals, were serving up coldplay for the all important Friday night slot – a band that oasis’ former manager alan McGee had casually dismissed as a group of “Indie bedwetters” Most people took to . comforting themselves with the prospect of the appearance of rolf Harris and his wobble-board. In the event, that warm Friday night transpired to be one of the most important in coldplay’s history. at half past ten, Faithless had waved their goodbyes, having delivered, as expected, a swirling ambient hour long sing-along, and an 80,000 strong crowd in front of the pyramid stage

was poised for more. Half an hour later, coldplay emerged from the gloom in a chorus of flashes, strobe lighting and the jarring riff of Politik. somewhere in the next ninety minutes they became one of Britain’s best bands. even if the crowd didn’t know it, coldplay had hit a rich vein of creativity during the last year. Their second full-length album, A Rush of Blood to the Head was on the brink of a successful international release, the first single In My Place was already gathering significant airplay and follow up singles Clocks and the wistful ballad The Scientist were being jealously guarded in a london vault by expectant parlophone executives. Just a year before they had been forced to fall back upon repeated performances of Yellow and Trouble during encores, often finding themselves stranded with too-little material. But that Glastonbury evening something fell silently and perfectly into place. In an odd departure from gig-going tradition, fresh material was greeted with warmth as the band debuted a fistful of ‘new ones’ . lead singer chris Martin interacted with the crowd, commiserating with those “stuck outside the fence without a ticket” in a couplet of ad-libbed lyrics. In return, lighters were jabbed

vibes
and waved triumphantly in the air. Then, as his falsetto voice echoed in the somerset night during Trouble, he paused for a moment to allow the crowd to finish the chorus, then and with impeccable manners, he admitted, “Thank you. That was marvellous”. Fast forward six years and coldplay’s place amongst the artistic establishment is assured. Their performance at Glastonbury not only won plaudits from critics, it was also portentous. It was followed by a world tour which lasted for fifteen successful months, they scooped the Grammy ‘record of the year’ for Clocks and their album, A Rush of Blood to the Head, went on to sell more than 12 million records worldwide. X&Y, released three years later, delivered an even greater degree of success, and was crammed with more gems than Victoria Beckham’s jewellery box. one of which, Speed of Sound, became the first single from a British band to trouble the us top 10 since The Beatles in 1968. Musically, however, coldplay remained marginalised. Intermittent jibes in the media accused them of lacking the essential ingredients of a British indie band. They lacked the edge of oasis, the craft of the arctic Monkeys, the hedonism of The libertines and the sheer misery of Joy division. They seemed unable to reinvent themselves as radiohead did with Kid A and none of their members were musical prodigies like Matt Bellamy of Muse. In addition, they carried the added handicap of being southerners and distinctly middle class. Traditionally, Britain likes its indie heroes poor and northern, raised in chimneys and writing songs about scruffy pubs and ugly birds. This was never the case with coldplay: Martin was expensively educated, drummer Will champion is the son of a university professor and, in echoes of Brian May, guitarist Jonny Buckland was a student of mathematics and astronomy. sneers surrounded the fact that instead of stoically eking out an existence on the musicians’ dole, coldplay had waited until finishing their studies (Martin graduated with a first class degree in ancient World studies) before signing their five record agreement with parlophone. some of these deficiencies were deemed inexcusable by portions of the music press who were obsessed with edge and innovation. Jim pareles, the new york Times music critic was the author of a typical mauling, dubbing them, “The most insufferable band of the decade”. For some, McGee’s ‘bedwetting’ jibe had stuck. coldplay had fallen victim to a strange bout of reverse snobbery. For many they were too well educated and they always had a safety net, something to fall back upon. If they had not been multi-millionaire musicians, they would have become doctors, scientists and engineers. It was a familiar curse and one that had constantly bothered the career of one of Britain’s finest writers, George orwell. Having attended the prestigious eton college and served in the Imperial police Force, many felt him unqualified to lecture on poverty and inequality. coldplay, like orwell before them would find it impossible to escape from their past. during the years, however, coldplay have proven the majority of the doubters wrong. Much of the criticism has subsided and a memorable collaboration with noel Gallagher of oasis at a Make Trade Fair concert signalled that they had achieved a level of acceptance amongst their peers. This twist of fortune has stemmed from the consistent quality of their musical output. A Rush of Blood to the Head was voted in rolling stone Magazine’s ‘Top 500 albums of all Time’, Q Magazine awarded X&Y a rare five stars and a catalogue of their singles have performed exceptionally around the world. Where u2 has provided the anthems for the eighties and nineties, coldplay have usurped them, setting down the soundtrack for the noughties. one of their finest songs, Talk, provides a snapshot of everything that is good about the band. There is a catchy riff, there are Martin’s imperious vocals, the band’s mastery of the loud/quiet ethic and a jam to round it off of which the red Hot chili peppers would be proud. Gallagher, a man known for his sharp tongue and quick opinions, is unequivocal in his praise of coldplay, “a top band”, he said. “They blew me away.” Meanwhile, Martin himself has emerged a thoroughly likeable character, a paragon of english manners and humble to boot. He maintains that the band has “perfect faces for radio”, and he often introduces band-mates to the crowd with gushing pride. “This is Will our drummer, and probably the best drummer in the world”, he announced at a recent concert. “although, of course, we’re biased and there are plenty of rock drummers who’d say they're better, but I’d just disagree”. similar praise is often dispensed mid-concert by Martin to guitarist Buckland and bass player Guy Berryman. almost six years to the week since their Glastonbury performance, coldplay were invited to perform a short concert outside the British Broadcasting corporation. The eponymous single from new album Viva la Vida and Death to All His Friends had recently become the first British song to hit the top of the us charts since 1998 and the spice Girl’s Wannabe. The band were relaxed and in playful mood, appealing to local builders, swapping instruments and Martin joked with the crowd as film crews hovered overhead, substituting the lyrics for Trouble with, “oh no, what’s this? a helicopter is filming my friends and me”. “We’re slightly terrified about this record, because we've thrown away all our tricks”, Martin had confessed earlier in the year to entertainment Weekly Magazine. The lyrics were more vivid, many of the jagged riffs had gone, only to be replaced by jangling church bells. They need not have worried for a moment. With coldplay’s trademark efficiency copies of the first two singles were downloaded in their millions, breaking even their own impressive records. coldplay’s ‘golden touch’ had returned once again. Guy Hands, boss of label eMI crowed excitedly that Viva la Vida is, “right across the world… the most anticipated album of the year”. Today, on stage, coldplay dress in hand-crafted French revolutionary dress, inspired by a painting by the 20th century Mexican artist Frida Kahlo. Gone are the shabby trappings of the students they once were. They are one of the biggest bands in the world, rich and famous beyond their wildest dreams. everything is carefully crafted, from their music to their image and their marketing, in carefully controlled perfection. even the description of their music, ‘very heavy soft rock’, seems unnecessarily exact. They have conquered the musical world, but some amongst the indie establishment there are still some happy to denounce them as interlopers, lacking that magical, intangible quality. It is proof that, very often, the people who are hardest to please are those closest to home.

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Ne-yo Closer Missy elliot Best Best Lil Wayne A Milli robin thicke Magic dizzee rascal Dance with me Busta rhymes Don’t Touch Me rihanna Disturbia

10 tunes that you should have been getting down to this summer 2008

DJ Cosy O’s Urban Review

N.e.r.d Everyone Nose

Nelly Bay Bay Bay

snoop dogg Those Gurls

> new cd releases
Year of the Gentleman Ne-Yo one of rnB’s true stars follows up his Grammy award winning Because of you album with a more mature effort. it’s great to see the legendary teddy riley alongside the omnipresent timbaland and kanye West on producer duties. there’s no disappointment and we get more of the quality lyrics and vocals we have come to expect. Blessed Busta Rhymes “Bussa Bus” drops his new album on the back of serious success with the awesome single Don’t touch me now. one of the few examples of serious longevity in the hip hop genre, Busta has had hits with just about everyone from flipmode, Mary J, Leaders of the New skool and Mariah. sit back and let Busta hype it up!!

Check out where cosy o will be spinning this month at www.djcosyo.com
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travel

Naples
I
WORDS by abHa MalPaNI

euro weekender

unsophisticated yet authentic
It doesn’t have the beauty of Florence, the sophistication of Milan, nor the living-museum of rome, but naples is real Italy. as abha Malpani writes, if they invented pizza, the neapolitans must certainly know something.
f a city is known to have a lovehate relationship with its visitors, it’s naples. Italy’s third largest city, Napoli (as the locals call it), is located in the south on Italy’s western coast and is 2,500 years old. Napoli, which means ‘new city’ is geographically situated , between steaming volcano campi Flegrei on the west and dormant yet dangerous Vesuvius on the east, which fortunately hasn’t erupted since 1944. other than being the home to pizza, inventing the mandolin, and having noteworthy architectural history, the city is also known to be ill-built, a core mafia hub, and an open museum of 3,500 tonnes of trash. so naples doesn’t have the elegance and charm of Florence or Venice, but it does have the vibrancy of a diverse Mediterranean metropolis, well lived-in by the rich and poor alike. For this reason, it’s comparatively lower on the tourist preference list, but I’d say that’s a great thing, and reason enough to visit. and oh my goodness, we mention a good number of things here but there are so many places to see and things to do, a couple of days may not be enough! If you love Italian food, naples is where you will get to eat the most authentic Margherita pizza. It used to be poor man’s food city that is surrounded but was made famous by the Palazzo Reale by King Ferdinand IV (royal palace), and the sometime in the 18th huge domed church Piazza del Plebiscito century. Interestingly san Francesco di paola. enough, there’s a strict one of the city’s most law on how a Margherita pizza ancient and popular squares is should be made in naples that piazza del Mercato. This square specifies the exact type of flour has always been the centre of and measurements of ingredients social and business events, and in to be used in order to make the the past it was where the public perfect Margherita. Moving away executions were held. from pizza, spaghetti is the most common type of pasta eaten in The most happening areas in naples and most of the food in naples are: shopping street Via general has Greek, French and Toledo; spaccanapoli (literally spanish influence from historical “split naples”), a street that times, making it a unique and crosses most of the city’s historic diverse type of food. oh, and don’t centre and a main place to wander forget to try the espresso. around looking at sights and shops; piazza dante, the most The city centre is where all the popular and centrally located action is, and some of the best plaza in naples; and Via dei pizza can be bought on the Trivunali, another busy street in streets. In the centre is piazza del old naples that has 1000 year old plebiscito, the largest plaza in the arcades.

Naples

there’s a strict law on how a Margherita pizza should be made in Naples that specifies the exact type of flour and measurements of ingredients to be used in order to make the perfect Margherita
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sep 08

euro weekender
like most Italian cities, napoli reflects a deep cultural and religious way of life. It has 448 historical churches, making it one of the most catholic cities in the world. The 13th century gothic cathedral “duomo” is the city’s most important place of worship. dedicated to naples patron saint saint Januarius, every year on september 19 the cathedral celebrates the “miracle of saint Januarius” when the saint’s dry blood liquefies as it is brought towards the relics of his body. san lorenzo Maggiore is another one of naples greatest churches built in 1265 that has extensive Greek and roman remains underneath. you can’t leave naples without visiting some of its castles. Built in the 12th century, castel dell’ovo is the city’s oldest castle. It is located on a small island from where you can see spectacular views of naples waterfront and at night it lights up and is a great spot to eat or have a drink. Its name translates to the “egg castle” and legend has it that the poet Virgil hid an egg in a cage in the castle; if the egg broke, both the castle and the city would be destroyed. another such edifice is castel nuovo which is one of the most significant architectural fortresses that was built in the 13th century. Take the city’s funicular railway system called Funiculare up a hill and you will come to castel sant'elmo. It is shaped like a six sided star and also offers stunning views from the top. nightlife doesn’t get much better than in the Mediterranean. The city centre, both new and historic, has a bustling string of bars and nightclubs. Just outside naples, other than the 1200 metre high volcano Vesuvius, are pompeii and Herculaneum, both worth a visit. These cities were destroyed by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in year 79 ad. In pompeii’s ‘Garden of Fugitives’, you can still see plaster casts of the people who died in the eruption, some of which are also in the national archaeological Museum of naples. In Herculaneum, you can still see skeletons of the people who died. The ruins from these cities are also maintained and tell tales of the cities that used to be before they were wiped away. all-in-all, naples is worth a trip should you want to see a part of Italy less glorified, less sophisticated, yet culturally profound. The best time to visit this city is between september and december.

travel

ev insider

Tommaso

What is so special about Naples? Who has never eaten pizza? Naples is its birthplace; the first Margherita pizza was made here in 1800 in honour of the queen of the same name. Naples’ history and traditions are what make it stand out. There is quite a strong Spanish influence here, too, as the Bourbons ruled here for quite some time. What do you recommend visiting? Never heard of Vesuvius? This is the most important volcano in the world at the moment for its shape and peculiarities. It is the volcano that destroyed the city of Pompeii in the first century AD and you can visit it. Also, you have to visit the old town, which is full of churches, each built in a different style from the other. Is there anything to eat apart from pizza? Neapolitan food is great for its variety, and well, Italian food in general is loved all over the world. You can get the best espresso coffee in Naples, we invented that, too. anything else to look out for? There is our traditional dance, Tarantella. If you’ve got a lot of money to spend, you can mix with the rich and famous on the close-by island of Capri, or go down the coast to Amalfi.

Tarantella

sep 07

europeanViBe

magazine

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weekender
the abundant fishing area to themselves. pintxo (much more elaborate tapas that are paid for) bars and taverns are everywhere and it’s normal during the day to drink the laughably small mouthful of beer that is the zurito (though it allows you to enjoy a good number of pintxos in different bars without getting drunk). at night, you may be horrified at the local habit of sharing drinks! The katxi is a more reasonable measure of three quarters of a litre, but one between three or four people is a common sight. one will set you back maybe €3.50-€4.00. The bars also have a relaxed attitude to stoners with a distinctly herbal aroma wafting through the streets. The txikiteo is the name the locals give to the social tradition of wandering from one bar to another and you could find yourself in eight or nine bars in a night. The beauty of the city is that it’s nice and compact so everything’s within walking distance. Vitoria also has its fair share of fiestas, Fiestas de la Blanca honour the city’s patron saint every august, and one of the biggest moments is squeezing into the city’s main square to drink and see a statue of Celedón shoot down a zip line from one side to the other. There is an international jazz festival in July and the azkena rock Festival this year is between 4th and 6th september. This year, Marky ramone will be performing and so will what remains of The doors, known as riders on the storm nowadays. other acts advertised include los lobos and The Quireboys. Vitoria is the home of spanish basketball’s current league champions, Tau cerámica, (officially called Baskonia). They’ve won the spanish league a few times and are major contenders in europe (spain’s only representative in this year’s euroleague Final Four). Fewer, but still many, of the locals are football fans and the majority follow the city’s second division side, alavés. The local team has been up and down from first to second division since they reached the ueFa cup Final in 2001, when they lost to liverpool. all in all, it’s a charming wee spot and three and a half hours will drive you there from Madrid. The bus predictably takes longer (about four and a half), but it is faster than the train. ryanair cancelled its flights to the airport from dublin and stansted last year but Iberia still has flights from Madrid and Barcelona. The only other flying option is nordjet, if you want to fly pijo of course. (yes, Vitoria has them too.) rumours of an aVe being completed in the next eon also abound. so, if the north’s your thing, have a look here and rest assured, aberdeen it isn’t, there’ll be no oil rigs or deep fried Mars Bars.

Vitoria
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Vitoria
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Martin Quinn takes a trip to a capital with no ‘c’ in it. you heard right, Vitoria is the capital of the Basque country, and yes, we have spelled it properly.
WORDS by MaRTIN QuINN

once confusingly described this place as the “aberdeen of the Basque country” due to it being less famous than the other two main cities, “you know, including the capital” It’s like . this. There are 49% of people think Bilbao is the capital and the other 49% go for san sebastián. said in the company of a Vitorian flatmate, his annoyed frown now entered me into the 2% who know that Vitoria is the actual capital. Vitoria-Gasteiz, to give it the full castellano-euskera name is in fact the second biggest city, populationwise in the Basque autonomous region to Bilbao. There are about 230,000 people that call the place home. I’d never been to either aberdeen or Vitoria when I made the badly educated statement but I fancy myself as an armchair traveller. I’m also prone to random outbursts. The city was founded in 1181 by the king of navarra, sancho VI though a local friend told me that excavations have found remains of ramparts maybe 100 years older than this. It was built on an earlier hamlet which gave it the Basque name Gasteiz. The walls are impressive and the city’s architectural layout has a layered feeling. The Gothic cathedral of santa María is undergoing extensive renovations at the moment. you can get a tour, hard-hat included and see the

restoration of a fantastic piece of architecture. There are also various museums that you can visit so culture vultures are well catered for. It’s a vibrant little spot, for the most part undiscovered by tourists and the general level of english spoke having a level that keeps you out of trouble but pushes you to practice your spanish. contrary to popular belief, Basques aren’t a bunch of language snobs and they’ll gladly help you learn Castellano. saying that, a large number were educated in the local language and it’s a great source of pride for them. In general, the people are from the countryside of Álava province or are second or third generation immigrants from extremadura, Galicia, castile or la rioja. one thing that they are snobby about, though is their food. Basques are food fanatics and cooking is almost considered macho. The men love cooking. apparently, a few years ago Mcdonald’s opened a restaurant in the city's main street. The outlet didn’t last long due to disinterest and it closed down. The cuisine contains a lot of seafood, given the Basque seafaring tradition. an old tale claims that Basque fishermen arrived in the americas between five to ten years before columbus but much further north. The story goes that they didn’t tell anyone so as to have

sep 08

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culture

travel events 2008/2009
We have put together our list of the best festivals and short trips in spain and europe over the next year. Will cade takes us through the events which would make your year unforgettable.

F

or those of us just coming to Madrid, the first few weeks are at the same time an awe-inspiring and painstaking process. We try to learn the ins and outs of the city while devouring every experience this major metropolis has to offer – and between tapas, museums, and nights out, it has more than enough to keep us busy. as miraculous as it is, though, Madrid cannot offer everything; here are the coolest reasons to go out of Madrid throughout the coming year.
WORDS by WIll CaDE

Fiestas de la vendimia riojana/san Mateo (La rioja wine Festival)
LoGRoño, La Rioja / SEpTEMBER 20Th – 27Th One experience Madrid can’t offer is a taste of small town Spain. For this you’ll have to head a little bit north and drink a quite a lot of wine. Logroño, the capital of La Rioja, may have a population of almost 140,000, but during this week in September it both swells in number of people and goes back to its cultural roots as the heart of Spain’s wine country. The festival coincides with the grape harvest, and as the tradition goes, you take part in the foot-crushing of the grapes and then offer the first glass to the Virgen de Valvanera. If you’re not a wine connoisseur, seeing the families cooking paella in pans (also called paellas) big enough for a bull will be well worth your while, not to mention the bullfights and parades.

oktoberfest

MuNich, GERMaNY / SEpTEMBER 20Th – ocToBER 5Th

Of all the wonderful drinks Spain is known for, great beer isn’t one of them. Spaniards won’t argue with you about this, but be mighty careful saying anything of the like in the Bavarian capital, Munich – Bavarian beer is such a point of pride that the city’s two-week beer festival gets kicked off by the mayor tapping the first keg, possibly his most important civic duty. After the festivities begin, walk from beer tent to beer garden, or take a look inside one of Munich’s historic beer houses, where you’ll see travellers from all over the world sitting beside Bavarians dressed in traditional attire. By midnight, the streets may be covered in spilt beer and crushed, plastic cups, but by 3:00 a.m. they’re spotless and ready for the day to come.

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sep 08

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culture
Festival of Lights
LYoN, FRaNcE / DEcEMBER 8Th – 12Th

Fiesta de Las cruces de Mayo (May crosses)
As spring is blooming, Córdoba is draping itself in flowered crosses. Churches and households alike will display their floral artistry, bringing forth the coming season with a sense of spirituality and creativity. This is by far the best time to visit the Andalusian gem, before the summer heat comes in full blast. The Moorish architecture in the city complements the Catholic festival, especially the Mezquita, the largest and most ornate mosque in all of Spain. Walking through its halls, you can catch glimpses into the country’s Moorish past and see why Spain’s varied culture is truly one of a kind.

Paris at night is unlike any other city in the world, its palpable sense of intrigue and amazement filling the air. But for four days a year, Lyon illuminates the night in ways Paris can only dream of. The entire city is adorned with every form of light imaginable, ranging from the more traditional torches and lanterns to laser lights and projected images. Lyon, the second largest city in France, also stakes a claim as the country’s culinary capital. Expect to find affordable French cuisine in the streets and restaurants while wandering through the nightly offerings, which include lantern processions, free concerts, and young people enjoying the nightlight.

cóRDoBa, SpaiN / apRiL 30Th – MaY 4Th

corpus christi and Feria
GRaNaDa, SpaiN / juNE 11Th – 20Th This religious festival is celebrated throughout Spain, but in Granada it coincides with the city’s annual feria (fair). Fairgrounds are built on the edge of town, where the majority of action takes place, but booths with music and food are set up in the city centre to accompany the religious processions. If the festivities lose your interest, a trip to the Alhambra will balance out the experience. The fortified palace narrowly missed out on becoming one of The Seven Wonders Of The Modern World in 2007. The tranquility of the largest Moorish palace remaining in Spain has lured in such writers as Washington Irving, who wrote Tales of the Alhambra during a short stay there in the 1820s.

Hogmanay

EDiNBuRGh, ScoTLaND / DEcEMBER 29Th – jaNuaRY 1ST

New Years Eve in Madrid is a wild night filled with Spaniards partying in the streets and popping back the traditional 12 uvas (grapes) as the clock clicks down to midnight. But it can’t hold a candle to the four day long New Year’s festival in the Scottish capital. Imagine 15,000 Scotsmen toting a Viking war ship from the centre of town to historic Calton Hill and setting it ablaze as fireworks explode in the distance, lighting up the sky behind Edinburgh Castle – and that’s just the first day. Yes, laddies and lassies, break out your bagpipes and partake in the merriment as the days count down to New Years Eve, which culminates in every bar in the city bouncing, a street party with over 100,000 revellers, a fireworks extravaganza and concerts.

carnaval

caDiz, SpaiN / FEBRuaRY 19Th – MaRch 1ST

La tomatina

BuñoL, SpaiN, auGuST 26Th

Hosting the Mardi Gras of Spain, Cadiz will transform from a southern coastal city into a week long spectacle of costumes and street performers. Creativity in costume is valued over glamour, so rest assured it can be done on a student budget. Rather than elaborate masks, partygoers usually paint their faces with make-up, adding to the loose, rambunctious feel of the festival. The street performers vary from satirical acting groups and rogue performers to farcical choirs and traditional musicians. Whether you want political criticism or a few good laughs, you’ll find it in the streets of Cadiz.

What a better way to top off your summer than a massive food fight? The population of this small city about 40 kilometers from Valencia goes from around 9,000 to over 30,000 as Spaniards and travellers alike come together for a massive tomato bashing. There have been no casualties to date, but the organizers have instituted a few rules to promote the spirit of good fun. No bottles or projectiles are to be thrown into the crowd, t-shirts are not to be torn, and all tomatoes must be smashed before hurled into the mob. That being said, everything else is game!

semana santa

SEViLLE, SpaiN / apRiL 3RD – 12Th

By April, you’ve probably seen every type of street party known to man, but you haven’t seen the ornate float processions that hit the streets for Seville’s Holy Week (Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday). Over 115 floats bearing statues of Virgins and Jesuses will meander through the historic city streets, accompanied by marching bands and crowds of fervant Catholics and bewitched non-Catholic onlookers. The traditional cone-hooded robes with eye slits worn by the parading brotherhoods were copied by the Ku Klux Klan, which makes the first time you see these processions all the more eerie. The rest of year Seville is known for enjoyment, whether it’s watching dancers in the capital of flamenco or basking in Southern Spain’s slower pace of life. You might notice the Andalusians don’t always pronounce the ‘s’ in words. But if you were this comfortable and relaxed, would you bother with the extra consonant?

eV Traveller will be taking groups to many of these european festivals. if you want to join the fun too, go to www.european.com and click on ‘traveller’.

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books
WORDS by PETER MOORE

Here is a list of four further page-turners that we think that you might like to try.
1 the ShadoW of the WINd

the europeaN vIBe readINg ChalleNge:

oNly 4.90€ At BookworLD
see AdVert oPPosite

s summer creeps towards autumn and Madrid settles into the well worn groove of another academic year, it can be the perfect time to remember those forgotten projects, to wind down the social life a notch and settle down with a good book. Filling the void left by the absence of Harry potter, the publishing industry has served up a number of plots fit to fire the imagination. amongst the best of these is the unravelling of a factual murder mystery presented in Kate summerscale’s book, The Suspicions of Mr Whicher: Or The Murder At Road Hill House. In July, summerscale scooped the samuel Johnson prize for the book defined in the Guardian as a rich mix of, “Melodrama, murder, suspense and courtroom drama” set in mid-Victorian england, there are echoes . of sherlock Holmes as detective Inspector Jonathan Whicher is despatched to make sense of the curious sequence of events that led to the gruesome murder of a three-year-old, who was discovered in the servants’ privy of a respectable english country house. The author daniel J Boorstein once observed wryly, that: “a wonderful thing about a book, in contrast to a computer screen, is that you can take it to bed with you,” and from under the sheets is the best place to enjoy summerscale’s book, which is written with a rare talent and a beautiful eye for dialogue. It is compulsive reading, and it will keep you awake well into the small hours of the night. The Suspicions of Mr Whicher contains not just shadows of conan doyle, but also of other Victorian detective novels. The style is spare, melancholic and equipped with a fierce period ability for understatement. “I have had a child stolen and carried off in a blanket,”

A

Shall God notHouse this out? search The Murder At Road Hill
remarks a puzzled Mr Kent, the father of the murdered child at one point. “Where did you lose it?” answered a Mrs Hall, almost as if he was speculating as to the whereabouts of his handkerchief. Indeed, this cool, precise language adds a sinister undertone to the book, as does summerscale’s economic descriptions of the characters within. This is best shown by her description of Whicher himself, he was: “A man of mystery... the prototype of the enigmatic, reserved investigator. He appeared from nowhere, and even his unmasking was masked with an alias. ‘Witchem’, the name given him... had suggestions of detection – ‘which of ‘em?’ – and of magic – ‘bewitch ‘em’. He could turn a man to stone or strike him dumb. Whicher was five feet eight inches tall, his hair was brown, his skin was pale, his eyes were blue. ” The Suspicions of Mr Whicher is a vivid page turner, full of cloaked clues and anecdotes that reveal the spirit of the age. The Victorians, with their tall hats, bushy moustaches, pocket watches and love of protocol provide a fascinating cast of characters – and their polite horror at the murder and their subsequent attempts to be useful to the police and the investigating authorities provides a touch of dark humour to the chilling plot. Few tales can claim to be as absorbing as murder mysteries are; and as the long spanish evenings begin to shorten and the public swimming pools are covered up for another year, wading through summerscale’s narrative for clues can prove the perfect catalyst for re-awakening the mind. are the suspicions of Mr Whicher correct? you will have to find out for yourself.

one of the most popular spanish novels of the decade and a worldwide best seller. the plot is set in a bleak post-war catalan landscape and deals with a mystery surrounding a boy called daniel and his connection with a forgotten, dangerous book: the shadow of the Wind.
2 the adveNture of the SpeCkled BaNd

by Carlos Ruíz Zafon

by Arthur Conan Doyle

Voted by a selection of sherlock Holmes experts at the finest of conan doyle’s short stories about the cokesmoking detective. A lady dies suddenly but inexplicably in an odd country house, uttering her finals words about a ‘speckled band.’ only Holmes can know what to make of this.
3

the book with the infamous opening line: “Last night i dreamt i went to Manderley again”, is a perfect example of a novel with a twist. in that wonderful literary cliché, “things are not quite what they seem”.

by Daphne du Maurier

reBeCCa

’s choice
La novela en la que se inspira la exitosa serie de t5 del mismo nombre, cuenta la trágica historia de catalina, una joven de Pereira que asocia la prosperidad con el tamaño de las tetas. A sus catorce años se da cuenta de que algunas como ella deben resignarse a vivir en la pobreza sólo por tenerlas pequeñas. se propone por ello conseguir a cualquier precio el dinero necesario para un aumento de pecho. Lejos está de pensar que los implantes con los que tanto soñó, escribirán letra a letra su tragedia personal. el autor nos acerca de forma dramática a una sociedad corrompida por el dinero, el narcotráfico y la prostitución en la que todo vale para ascender en la escala social.
Gustavo Bolívar Moreno

SIN tetaS No hay paraíSo
4

C/Espíritu Santo, 47

91 521 85 76

Noviciado L2 www.jandjbooksandcoffee.com

20 www.europeanvibe.com sep 08

soluciones: a-5, b-4, c-3, d-2, e-1

www.europeanvibe.com

discover madrid
of their regional consulates in the States. Having grown up and lived in Ohio—yes, the Ohio partly culpable for George Bush’s reelection—I was under the blanket of Chicago’s rule. What does that mean? Well, for starters, I couldn’t mail in paperwork. Nope, I had to schedule an appointment 6 weeks in advance, drive 6.5 hours to the Windy City, then turn in 5 sheets of paper and a picture. Time spent at the office: 10 minutes. Time spent driving: 13 hours. Time spent being frustrated: ongoing. When I was next in line, I gave my travel buddy a call to pick me up. I got my $100 Spanish permission slip in hand, gave it the once-over, then hopped in my friend’s car and headed home. Upon my arrival home, I gave my passport to my dad, who politely asked, “Why is your name spelled wrong?” “You’re joking, right?” “Not unless you’ve changed your name.” Lo and behold, my surname was spelled G-RAGGS. I hadn’t picked up on it because of the font and my desire to exit official document hell. Needless to say, Spanish accents don’t sound as sexy when you’re firing the words ‘inept’ and ‘idiot’ back and forth via telephone. And in the end? I got to mail my passport back and the problem was corrected in a week. Talk about much ado about nothing. But that’s not where the fun stops. Located on Calle General Pardiñas, 90, the Comisaría General de Extranjería y Documentación isn’t a place anyone will call a party, but there sure are a lot of people there – it’s identifiable by the line waiting around the block. I lucked out in having my employer schedule my appointment, but most have to do it themselves. This is the place where all non-EU citizens have to slog through a line to apply for a NIE. People camp out to get into this office like it’s a Star Wars premiere. Before you go, however, you’ll need the appropriate papers: passport, photos, documents detailing your reason for being in Spain, your family tree, a report card from first grade, a receipt from paying for the application at a bank, the application form, and an original copy of the Magna Carta. The tricky part is actually the bank receipt. You have to go to a bank to pay for paperwork you turn in at another office. ¡Viva España! Unless you plan on playing the kazoo in the metro, you’ll then need to find some work. The easiest way to do so is by trolling websites like segundamano, loquo, and lingobongo for teaching jobs. I put up an ad as a native speaker on lingobongo and had 15 offers within a week. It’s best to be choosy, however, as the quality of academies varies. In addition, more respected companies will want to see that you’re legal, as businesses can be fined 2,000€ for hiring illegals— but it’s entirely possible to find enough work without having papers. Some experts estimate up to 25% of Spain’s GDP is ‘black work’ (undeclared earnings)— hey, ‘black work’ puts pan integral on lots of English-speaking tables. If you’re planning to get married in Madrid—well, don’t. That is to say, you’ll have to wait months and months once you get your empadronamiento and marriage licence. Just ask EV’s own Luc Ciotkowski, of the recently-married ilk, how fun that can be. The solution can end up being a trip outside Madrid city limits into a suburb or village to register for marriage. One would think that a selfidentified Catholic country with a decreasing rate of marriage would make the process a little easier. One would think, but this is Spain. No pasa nada (it doesn’t matter). One last anecdote: in Spain’s national I.D. database, the government allowed for names of up to 33 characters, as that was the longest name in the country at the time. Of course, a French guy marrying a Spanish woman came in with a 34 character name. Officials asked him if he would change his name—he politely declined and the government had to overhaul the entire system. Most foreign residents of Spain would say all the trouble of Spanish red tape vale la pena (is worth it) in the end. That won’t stop them from complaining in the process, however. Personally, I’d agree with vale la pena, in this case, but with one caveat; I think there’s another saying that must come along with it concerning all the hoops to jump through: Es un coñazo (it’s one hell of a pain in the ass). That’s something very few can argue with.

fo preparing

Tape Red
rp

s k problem aperwor

Spending three hours in a queue just to be told you are at the wrong office or to come back tomorrow with more documents you didn’t know you needed is nobody’s idea of fun. Ryan Craggs has been there, done that and got the certificate (about six months later) and gives you the info you need to get your papers in order.
WORDS by Ryan CRaggS

S

o, you’ve moved to Spain and have all the grandeur of Hemingway and Lonely Planet filling your head; blistering afternoons chilled by drinks on a terrace, witnessing the masculine expression of a bullfight, scorched earth and olive trees, jamón in all its forms, and long nights spent noshing on tapas and hopping from club to club with a beautiful someone or other on your arm. And yes, Spain does provide all of these things for the adventurous hispanophile. Many who venture to the land of Mediterranean coasts and sangria waterfalls become permanent expatriates after falling in love with the language, the people, and the lifestyle. But there’s one little thing you may not have counted on before you packed your bags and

shipped off for the idealised new home: some call it bureaucracy, some call it an obstacle, but to most, it’s known as RED TAPE. Red tape isn’t a local expression to describe the extremities of the Spanish flag. No, in fact, red tape is something every foreigner will have to deal with when relocating to Spain. Sure, the EU makes moving between countries pretty fluid, but take the case of an American getting a Spanish visa: Americans are powerless to the jurisdiction

Upon my arrival home, I gave my passport to my dad, who politely asked, “Why is your name spelled wrong?”

22

sep 08

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Plaza del Carmen (entrance: Calle Salud 9)

Metro: Sol/Gran Vía/Callao

Ph: 915 233 415

Pool table Darts Cocktails LIVE MUSIC 2 FLOORS

LIVE SPORTS- 2 BIG SCREENS World Cup European Qualifying, Premier League & La Liga

Happy hour every Thursday 7pm-12pm. Pints of Heineken 2 x 1!!!

gigantic screen & tvs’
open every day from 12pm- 3am sandwiches & tostas available all day

OPEN EVERY DAY DJ every night from 11pm
Plaza de Oriente Palacio Real
Ca lle San tia
Pre

Gran Vía
Gran Vía

Table-to-table telephones inside!!!

Aren

al

Mo

Calle

nte

Teatro Real

Call e Alc alá

e Alc

ra

alá

cia do s

Call

Sol
Calle Espoz y Mira
go

Catedral de Ntra. Sra. de la Almudena

C arrera de S

an Jeró

Ma Calle

yor

nimo

Calle M

ayor

c/ Santiago 1,
Irish Pub

Tel: 629261996
Just off Calle Mayor

Plaza Mayor

Opera

Sto. Domingo

Callao

Gran Vía

53 60

13

12 14
Sevilla

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Tulane University Universitaria Complutense (servicio de informacion) IES Programme Hard Rock Café N.Y.U.

Ciudad Universitaria

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Hotel Florida Norte Lokua República Argentina Taste of America Ele. Madrid Unidad Medica

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Ópera

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Las Mil y Una Noches Shamrocks Irish Bar

Ventura Rodríguez

now fREE wi-fi in All ThREE bARs
MOORES PLAZA MAYOR c/Felipe III, 4
LIVE FOOTBALL, BEST PUB-GRUB IN MADRID, BEST PUB FOR ALL SPORTS & BEST BIG SCREEN

MOORES BARCELó
MONDAY TO FRIDAY: MENÚ DEL DÍA. THURSDAY: TERTULIA, STUDENT NIGHT + COCKTAILS. SATURDAY & SUNDAY: SPORTS ALL DAY. PUB QUIZ EVERY MONDAY NIGHT
TERRAZA

Tel: 91 532 6331

c/Barceló, 1 Tribunal

Tel: 91 365 5802

Sol

Special Sports Menu

MOORE’S LA CUEVA BAR DE COPAS, THURSDAYS, FRIDAY & SATURDAY DJs. CHART MUSIC. WE ORGANISE PRIVATE PARTIES www.guts.es

c/Gutiérrez Solana, 6 Tel: 91 561 5668 Bernabéu OPEN 11AM-5PM.

GUTS FUSSION

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San Bernardo Bilbao

8

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7 22

50
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19
Colon

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a ra B I C Bat H s

&

re stau r a n t

‘step back in history to the only arabic baths in Madrid’ Over 300 years old, located in the heart of the city centre Come and relax in our thermal baths with soothing oriental music and traditional arabic decor.

Enjoy typical andalusian food, original décor, oriEntal dancE shows and a cultural fusion EvEry day of thE yEar… not to bE missEd!!

SMALL BAR IN TOWN
Good beer, good sports, good times
Best Pint of Guinness

THE BIGGEST

Open everyday from 1pm.
Traditional food. Take-away available. Pint bottles of cider. Plasma TV, darts and Free wi-fi internet. All the Premiership and La Liga action live.

vibe awards

c/Maldonado, 14. Tel: 91 431 61 90. Metro: Nuñez de Balboa.
MADRID’S No. 1 SHOTS BAR!!! Absinthe Sambuca Stroh Mezcal Cocktails, mixed drinks, and lots more!

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A universe of flavours! More than 100 combinations and the greatest variety of liquors from all over the world (Absente, Sambuca, Stroh, Mezcal…) and the original way to drink them.

Santa Teresa 8, Alonso Martínez, MADRID Alonso Martínez

www.chupitosabor.com
sep 08

Open Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 21:30 to 2am

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25

food
American Indian
Hard Rock Cafe Madrid offers the genuine american food and we create an authentic dining experience in a rock ’n‘ roll atmosphere: Live music and museum. Madrid has two bars, a great terrace and two private rooms. Open every day 12:30-02:00 am Tel: 91 436 4340 www.hardrock.com

WHAT DO YOU FANCY TONIGHT?

eat out guide
Namaskaar is an Indian Restaurant that specialises in Tandoori dishes. You are guaranteed a warm welcome at a beautiful location in the heart of Madrid. An English menu is also available. Day menu only 9.50€ Tel: 91 559 3311 www.namaskaar.es

Hard Rock Café Pº de la Castellana, 2

Colón/Serrano

Namaskaar c/ Vergara, 7 (Right behind Teatro Real de la Opera)

Ópera

Latin American Cuisine
Argentinian Steak Houses
Corrientes Ibiza, 39 ( Ibiza). Tel: 91 504 3457 El Gaucho Tetuán, 34 ( Sol). Tel: 91 522 4793 La Vaca Argentina Bailén, 20 ( La Latina). Tel: 91 365 6654 Brand new Indian restaurant in Madrid! Exquisite Indian cuisine, in a stunning and central location, right beside Madrid’s famous Plaza Mayor. Terrace now open. Tel: 913 669 099

Curry House Plaza de la Provincia, 3
Centrally located Argentinian steak house with a rustic, welcoming atmosphere. Enjoy traditional Argentinian cuisine such as pizza, pasta, and grilled meat. Variety of vegetarian options available. Open every day ‘til late. Average price 15/20€ per head, lunch menu only 9,50€. Tel: 91 369 4391

Sol/Antón Martin

Il Piccolino Della Farfalla c/ Huertas, 6
Brazilian

Antón Martín

Brand new Indian restaurant located in the Heart of Madrid. Traditional Punjab dishes served by friendly Indian staff. Call for details of special Bollywood dancing shows performed in the restaurant. Open 1-4pm and 8pm-midnight. Tel: 91 523 4570 www.currys.es

Curry’s Indian Restaurant c/ Silva, 16
This atmospheric restaurant specialises in Brazilian food and is located just off Madrid’s famous Paseo de la Castellana. The house speciality, “Picanha”, is a dish of flame-grilled meat thinly sliced and lightly seasoned with rock salt. Try their fantastic caipirinhas while taking in the beautiful artwork on the walls (they hold regular exhibitions) and revel in the upbeat atmosphere created by the friendly staff and exotic Brazilian beats. Open Tuesday to Saturday.

Callao

Tel: 91 399 1475

Picanha c/ Modesto Lafuente, 15
Mexican /Tex-Mex

Alonso Cano

Traditional Indian restaurant- offering a variety of rich Indian cuisine infused with the best authentic ingredients. Located in the centre of Madrid and open daily 1-4 pm and 8-12 pm. Set menu available everyday from 1-4 pm for 9.95€. Tel: 91 360 0706 www.gurumadrid.es

Guru Indian Restaurant c/ Echegaray 21

Sol/ Sevilla

Tex mex, grill, and excellent margaritas! Business lunch only 10€ including IVA and coffee. Closed on Sundays. Tel: 91 559 2131

Enjoy a wide variety of traditional Indian cuisine. With over 40 dishes to choose from, you will be spoilt for choice. Open daily 1-4 pm and 8.30-11.30 pm. Set menu and take away food available. www.restaurantetaj.com

El Rincón de Andy c/ Duque Osuna, 6

Plaza de España/ Ventura Rodriguez

Taj

c/ Cruz 13 Sol/Sevilla. Tel: 91 522 3595 c/ Marqués De Cubas 6 Banco de España. Tel: 91 531 5059 / 91 521 63 27

Experience the genuine flavour of Mexican Cuisine. Recommended by the Gourmet pages in El Mundo and El País. Tel: 91 544 7788 www.elpimientoverde.com

Bright, colourfully furnished Indian restaurant located in Madrid’s trendy Chueca area. Open since 1985, it is a busy little place and quite reasonably priced at around 18/20€ per head. 3 course lunch or “menu del día” is served from 1.30pm- 4.30pm, dinner from 8.30pm- 12.30pm. Open every day. Tel: 91 391 4586

El Chile Verde c/ Hilarión Eslava, 33

Moncloa

Taj Mahal c/ Belén, 12

Chueca/Alonso Martínez

26

sep 08

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WHAT DO YOU FANCY TONIGHT?

eat out guide
Spanish

food
Italian
A touch of Italy in Madrid’s bustling city centre. Enjoy exquisite pizzas and pastas in a warm and welcoming atmosphere, courtesy of Rome-born pizza maestro Roberto Borghesi. Special 3-course lunch menu available Mon-Fri, only 11.50€. Open Mon- Thurs: 13.45- 16h, 20.45- 24h, Sat. 14h- 16h, 21h- 24h, Sun. 14h- 16.30h. Tel: 91 541 9533 www.borghesi.es

Traditional Spanish food, in a traditional Spanish atmosphere, with flamenco music and a terrace right in the centre of Madrid. Try the typical “croquetas de jamón” or the house speciality “Don Paco” dish. Open all day from 10am to 2am. Tel: 91 522 9050

La Tía Cebolla Calle de la Cruz, 27

Sol

Borghesi c/ Francisco de Ricci, 15 Argüelles Modern/International Cuisine

Enjoy typical Andalusian food, original décor, oriental dance shows and a cultural fusion every day of the year… Not to be missed!! Tel: 90 233 3334 www.medinamayrit.com

New, modern restaurant located in the heart of Madrid. Fresh, vibrant atmosphere and bright, comfortable surroundings. Very reasonably priced. Monday to Saturday, 1pm to 4pm and 8pm to midnight. (Saturdays 1.30pm opening) Tel: 91 523 0481

Medina Mayrit c/ Atocha 14
Japanese

Sol/Tirso de Molina

Cubik c/ Aduana,12

Sol/Sevilla

“Let’s Noodle” Madrid’s very first noodle bar. Fast, healthy and fun food served in the heart of Madrid’s Chueca district, in a pleasant and modern atmosphere. Take-away service available. Open Mon- Sun 1pm-1am. Tel: 91 522 3333

Creative cuisine in a casual, friendly atmosphere. Lunch served Tuesday to Friday, Dinner served Tuesday to Saturday, brunch served on Sundays. Tel: 91 547 4996

Toma c/ Conde Duque, 14

Plaza de España

Circus Noodle Bar c/ Libertad, 13

Chueca
It is now possible to go and enjoy one of your favourite meals that you miss from home while watching all your favourite sport on our plasma screens. We are open from noon till 2.30am and serve food all day: authentic fish and chips, battered sausages, curry chips and a lot more. A perfect day out! Tel: 91 523 2631

Ayala Japón Ayala, 67 ( Lista). Tel: 91 309 5625 Furama Paseo de la Florida, 2 ( Príncipe Pío). Tel: 91 548 7658

Thai

Authentic Thai cuisine, in exotic, intimate surroundings. Good service, friendly atmosphere. English menu available. Extensive à la carte menu, lunch and evening specials. Open 12-4pm and 8pm-12pm. Non-smoking. Tel: 91 559 8315

Tony’s Cafe de la Cruz, 11 Vegetarian

Sol

SIAM c/ San Bernardino, 6

Plaza de España/Noviciado

The Thai Gardens Jorge Juan, 5 ( Colón). Tel: 91 577 8884 Café Saigón María de Molina, 4 ( Gregorio Marañón). Tel: 91 563 1566

Lebanese

A classic choice for vegetarian cuisine- these are the two oldest vegetarian restaurants in Madrid (20 years). Very centrally located. Friendly staff, traditional décor, and a welcoming atmosphere help make any customer feel welcome. Open every day from 1pm-4pm, and 8pm to 12am. Special menus available for lunch and dinner. www.restauranteartemisa.com

Artemisa

c/ Ventura de la Vega, 4 Sevilla. Tel: 91 429 5092 c/ Tres Cruces, 4 Gran vía/Callao. Tel: 91 521 8721

Authentic Arabian Tea House and Restaurant. Schischa pipes, traditional Lebanese cuisine and over 60 different kinds of tea! Come and enjoy a relaxing dinner, try one of our teas and let the oriental belly-dancing show transport you to a different world! Shows every Friday and Saturday evening. Open for lunch and dinner menus. Tel: 91 559 5785 www.rclasmilyunanoches.com

A pleasant surprise for non-vegetarians. Rustic, Andalusian tavern-style décor, extensive and surprisingly tasty menu. Located in the heart of the bustling La Latina area. Open every day, 1pm- 4.30pm, 8pm-12.30pm. Tel: 91 365 8982

Las Mil y Una Noches c/ Martín de los Heros, 28

Ventura Rodriguez

El Estragón Pl. Paja, 10 Madrid de los Austrias

La Latina

www.europeanvibe.com

sep 08

27

bar chat

This month’s venue: Hard Rock Café Pº de la Castellana, 2

Knowing Madrid and intercambios
InteRvIeWIng by LuC CIOtkOWSkI

The world-famous Hard Rock Cafe in the iconic Plaza de Colón was the setting for this month’s bar chat. As we chilled out on the terrace on a warm Madrid evening, we talked about what we wish we’d known when we came to Madrid and the popular phenomenon of the free language exchange, the intercambio.
Luc: What do you wish you had known when you moved to Madrid? Susa: I wish I had known my exboyfriend was cheating on me! He moved here before me and after I came he got a week off work. He said he was going back to Brighton, where we used to live in the south of England, to visit some friends. When he was away, I went to check my emails and I had a message from him. It wasn’t meant for me, though, it was for his sister, telling her how he had slept with a friend of his the night before. He’d sent the message to me by mistake and he was telling his sister all about it, all you can imagine. Aifric: Oh my God! Susa: Yeah, well, later on I found out he’d been cheating on me, like, here with all the girls in Madrid. Will: Wow, that’s pretty nasty. Patrick: I wish I’d known about the dollar decline. When I first came here I felt like I had everything under control, like I could buy a drink in a club fine. Now it’s like, if I were still being paid in dollars, right now I’d be figuring out how to eat on a daily basis. It’s fine now: I’m getting paid in euros. But if I’d known about it then I probably would’ve changed something around. It used to be 1.2, now it’s 1.6. John: Mine’s pretty basic. I guess if I’d known about rebajas (sales) the first time I came here, I’d have saved so much money. Not only that, but tercera rebajas (third and even cheapest
John

stage of the sales). When I first came here, I got a pair of jeans and like one or two shirts for 80 euros. About two weeks ago, in the segunda rebajas, for about 70something euros I got three pairs of jeans, four shirts, socks and underwear at H&M. Oh, and I got a jacket, my size, for 12 euros. They start again in February. Luc: Have you ever done intercambios (free language exchanges)? Patrick: The first time I did an intercambio, I went with my room mate. I was talking with this guy, he seemed like a nice guy, a rather portly gentleman. And the first thing he starts talking about to me in Spanish was all the whorehouses he had visited – which he described at the time as, um, ‘bars’. When he started getting a little more explicit, it just clicked and I just like, “Oh, my, God”. And I looked at my room mate and I was just like, “We are leaving right now”. And since then I’ve never done a public intercambio. I do it with my Spanish friends: they practise their English, I practise my Spanish. But that experience was enough for me. Aifric: I actually organised an intercambio once a week, which was not as difficult as I thought it would be, because it’s more of a casual kind of group that get together, sit down and have a chat, as opposed to making it like a class. So, yeah it’s good. You do get the occasional weirdo like Patrick was saying, who comes to pick up some young Americans, but the vast majority are lovely.
Aifric

Luc: On balance, do most people go to pick someone up or are they mostly there for the language? Aifric: You do get a certain amount of that, but I have to say in general people have a genuine interest in improving their languages. Susa: It’s so different in a group. I used to organise one, you welcome people and they mix. Aifric: You sit down and they just talk to whoever is sitting beside them, as opposed to having a big group of people who arrive in a normal bar and just talking to random strangers. For shy people that would make it very difficult. So no, we had a lot of regulars who made new people feel quite comfortable. Luc: I suppose it’s kind of inevitable that people will get together when they’re in bars, with that setting? Aifric: Oh yeah, especially when there’s alcohol involved. Susa: You’ve got to be careful with the Spanish you learn as well, you know. I have had students in my class (Susa is a Spanish teacher) who were like, “But my intercambio says that this is not correct”, and I’m like, “I’m sorry, but your intercambio has no idea”. It’s more like a social thing than really learning.
Susa

Susa: You know, some foreigners as well don’t hang around Spanish people, so it’s probably a good way for them to talk to some Spanish people. To use Spanish in a real context. Luc: Would it be wrong to just not do classes and use intercambios to learn Spanish, then? Susa: No. As I said, it’s a social thing. And you need at least an intermediate level to participate. Aifric: You definitely need grammar classes. If you go to an intercambio with no Spanish, you just don’t have the vocab to be able to talk about anything. You need to have a basic Spanish first, and then you can do an intercambio. Will: I went to one, too. Well, the intercambio was kinda nice. It an interesting night, though, because I think it was the first night that I’d been in Spain and could tell that a Spanish woman was interested in me. Because usually I have a hard time reading Spanish women in general.
Will

Aifric: You know what I think? Intercambios are great for practice and building up confidence in speaking. A lot of Spaniards are very shy about speaking English. They can maybe do writing and reading fine, but when you talk to them they get shy.

Patrick: The best way to learn Spanish is to drown before you can start to float. So, be around as many Spanish people as you can. Read as much as you can. Because the more words you read, the more words you look up, the more words you don’t know, the more words you see, the more words you memorise, the more words you see again and again and again.
Patrick

28

sep 08

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film first
WORDS by PeteR MOORe

A short collection of better films you can enjoy in cinemas:

WANTED

Spanish title: Wanted. Se Busca Director: Timur Bekmambetov Cast: James McAvoy, Morgan Freeman, Angelina Jolie

THE AIR I BREATHE
If such a place exists as ‘artists’ hell’, then that is the place to which the creators of The Air I Breathe should be banished, for eternity and a day. But before we let them leave, we should first boil them in a vat and steam them mercilessly into repentance over a mound of organic cabbages. Perhaps I am getting a little excitable, but just how did it go so badly wrong? At first, the signs for The Air I Breathe were auspicious. Forest Whitaker, fresh from his triumphant portrayal of the petulant demagogue Idi Amin, was joined in the billing by Kevin Bacon, Brendan Fraser and Sarah Michelle Gellar. A young director, Jieho Lee offered the possibility of a fresh perspective and the tagline was alluring: “Sometimes the things we can’t change end up changing us”. Ninety minutes later I wound up confused and disappointed. Set in a faceless ‘Gothamesque’ city, the plot had intended to portray snapshots of the grubby underbelly of American society through four separate, but interwoven mini dramas. These four vignettes had been drawn from a Chinese proverb that suggests that four emotional cornerstones characterise life: happiness, pleasure, sorrow and love. What ensued, however, was vapid and uninspiring. Grim, broke and laughing like a lunatic, the best actor of the lot, Forest Whittaker (Happiness), was despatched with alarming efficiency by Lee with the film just twenty five minutes old. Affording the Oscar winning actor just enough time to inexplicably squander $50,000 on a horse called ‘Butterfly’, because, ‘he likes butterflies.’ But before you can properly lament the fact that Happiness was not granted the slightest chance to justify his name, you are disturbed by the arrival of one of the most ludicrous cinematic inventions of modern times. The character of Fingers, I presume, was devised as the film’s sinister, machiavellian villain: a money-driven mobster intended to make people’s knees shake like maracas. But the all-Italian, cool but dangerous, Noo Yawk Tawkin mafia boss is so clichéd that Andy Garcia, an elsewhere respectable actor, is successful only in conjuring a hilarious caricature. For the entirety of the film he strutted about his patch, caught in an endless, tedious soliloquy, uttering nonsense about ‘biwsnus’ and ‘wrespect’, stopping only to shoot the occasional hapless victim with disquieting alacrity. Fittingly for a film that was as deep as a puddle, the origins of his name were equally glib: Fingers was so-called due to his predisposition to removing the odd digit with a rusty pair of scissors. Charming. As the plot trundled forward, further ridiculous characters appeared, none worse than Fingers’ nephew Tony: a loquacious braggart in town with the

A high adrenalin action flick starring James McAvoy, Morgan Freeman and Angelina Jolie. Expect a rumbling soundtrack, an orgy of muscle flexing and some cool-as-ice assassinations.

Spanish title: Cuatro Vidas Release Date (Spain): 19 September 2008 Director: Jieho Lee Cast: Sarah Michelle Gellar, Forest Whitaker, Kevin Bacon, Brendan Fraser, Andy Garcia, Emilie Hirsche, Julie Delpy

intention of ‘popping his cherry’. In a film fraught with unnecessary bloodletting, sadly Tony narrowly escaped a similarly grizzly fate, due only to Brendan Fraser’s useful ability to glimpse into the future. With tragic inevitability, things grew ever more depressingly bleak, with a succession of traffic accidents, attempted suicides and common assaults being thrown into the mix, before a flash of serendipity arrived to solve all the tragic woes of the plot in a glorious stroke of fortune. Meanwhile Bacon and Gellar struggled admirably with the scraps, buoyed only by the presence of a creditable indie soundtrack and the odd sharply directed scene. The Air I Breathe fails as a work of art on a spectacular number of levels. Attempting to straddle the void between an action flick, a morality tale and a slap stick comedy, it ends up suffering from an identity crisis of Clark Kent proportions. The characters are bland pastiches of something interesting, the stuff from which stereotypes sprout, and the script remains reassuringly awful throughout. The only question that lingered was how this drivel escaped from the studio and weaved its way through post production without being apprehended at some point on route. At least, now that it has arrived, we can judge it for what it is: an ignominious failure, so bad that it is utterly unforgettable.
VIBE STARS

THE X FILES

Spanish title: X-Files: Creer es la Clave Director: Chris Carter Cast: David Duchovny, Gillian Anderson, Adam Godley, Amanda Peet, Billy Connolly

Mulder and Scully, the sharpest-dressed detectives of the 1990s make a big screen reappearance for more dour head scratching, dalliances with alien forces and an unexpected cameo from Billy Connolly.

THE DUCHESS
Spanish title: La Duquesa Director: Timur Bekmambetov Cast: Keira Knightley, Ralph Fiennes, Charlotte Rampling, Dominic Cooper

Your fifteenth chance to see Keira Knightley dressed up in period costume and acting scandalously as an eighteenth century it-girl.

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sep 08

new movie releases
ORIGINAL VERSION CINEMAS (V.O.)
>Alphaville Golem
Address: Martín de los Heros, 14 Tel: 915 593 836 Zone: Central Price: 6.80 € Metro: Plaza de España (Lines 3 & 10)
Release Date: 5 September 2008 Spanish title: The Strangers Release Date: 12 September 2008 Spanish title: Wanted. Se Busca

film first

Rodríguez (Line 3)

>Pequeño Cine Estudio

Address: Magallanes, 1 Tel: 914 472 920 Zone: Chamberi Price: 6.50 € Metro: Quevedo (Line 2) Rodríguez (Line 3) Address: Calle de la Princesa, 3 Tel: 915 414 100 & 902 888 902 Zone: Moncloa-Aravaca Price: Mon-Fri 6.20 €. Sat & Sun 6.80 € Metro: Plaza de España (Lines 3 & 10), Ventura Rodríguez (Line 3)

>Princesa

Release Date: 19 September 2008 Spanish title: Cuatro Vidas

Release Date: 19 September 2008 Spanish title: Se Quién me Mató

Rodríguez (Line 3)

>Renoir Cuatro Caminos

Address: Raimundo Fernández Villaverde, 10 Tel: 915 414 100 & 902 229 122 Zone: Chamberi Price: Mon-Fri 6.50 €. Sat & Sun 6.80 € Metro: Cuatro Caminos (Lines 1, 2 & 6)

wanted

nim's island

Journey to the Center of the earth

>Renoir Plaza de España
Address: Martín de los Heros, 12 Tel: 915 414 100 & 902 229 122 Zone: Central Price: Mon-Fri 6.50 €. Sat & Sun 6.80 € Metro: Plaza de España Rodríguez (Line 3)

Win five cinema tickets for you and your friends!
Yelmo Cine Ideal, the biggest original language cinema in Madrid, are giving away five free tickets to see a film of your choice at their theatre in Calle Doctor Cortezo. All you have to do is answer the following question:

Release Date: 19 September 2008 Spanish title: Vicky Cristina Barcelona

Release Date: 26 September 2008 Spanish title: La Isla de Nim

>Renoir Princesa

Address: Calle de la Princesa, 5, Pje. Martín de los Heros Tel: 915 599 872 & 902 229 122 Zone: Central Price: Mon-Fri 6.50 €. Sat & Sun 6.80 € Metro: Plaza de España (Lines 3 & 10), Ventura Rodríguez (Line 3) Rodríguez (Line 3)

>Renoir Retiro

Release Date: 26 September 2008 Spanish title: Marido por Sorpresa

Release Date: 26 September 2008 Spanish title: Tropic Thunder

Address: Narváez, 42 Tel: 902 229 122 Zone: Retiro Price: Mon-Fri 6.50 €. Sat & Sun 6.80 € Metro: Ibiza (Line 9) Rodríguez (Line 3) Address: Bravo Murillo, 28 Tel: 914 473 930 Zone: Chamberi Price: 6.50 € Metro: Canal (Lines 2 & 7), Quevedo (Line 2) Rodríguez (Line 3)

In The Air I Breathe Sarah Michelle Gellar plays a pop star, however she does not sing any songs herself. They are originally sung by who? Send your answers and contact details in an email entitled “Yelmo Film Competition” to editor@europeanvibe.com before 24th September 2008. Good luck to you all!

>Verdi

>Yelmo Cines Ideal

Join our monthly Cinema Club
We go once a month to see the latest releases. Sign up at www.europeanvibe.com

Release Date: 26 September 2008 Spanish title: Viaje al Centro de la Tierra

Release Date: 29 September 2008 Spanish title: Tres Mujeres y un Plan

Address: Doctor Cortezo, 6 Tel: 902 220 922 Zone: Central Price: 7.10 € Metro: Tirso de Molina (Line 1)

Please note: details of all films are correct at the time of publication.

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sep 08

31

sport

ryder cup
SPORTS DIARy
25th-7th Sep 30th-21st Sep 31st Aug TENNIS US Open Flushing Meadows, New York CYCLING La Vuelta de Espana FOOTBALL La Liga Atletico Madrid v Malaga Deportivo La Coruna v Real Madrid Numancia v Barcelona FOOTBALL SPL Celtic v Rangers CRICKET Cardiff: ODI: England v South Africa FOOTBALL World Cup European Qualifying Andorra v England FYR Macedonia v Scotland Georgia v Rep of Ireland Slovakia v Northern Ireland Spain v Bosnia-Herzegovina Wales v Azerbaijan GAA Hurling All-Ireland Senior Championship - Final MOTOR CYCLING Donington Park: World Superbikes MOTOR RACING Formula 1 Belgian Grand Prix TENNIS Fed Cup final FOOTBALL World Cup European Qualifying Croatia v England Iceland v Scotland Montenegro v Rep of Ireland Northern Ireland v Czech Republic Russia v Wales Spain v Armenia RUGBY LEAGUE Super League play-offs FOOTBALL EPL Blackburn v Arsenal Liverpool v Man Utd Man City v Chelsea ATHLETICS Stuttgart: IAAF World Athletics Final RUGBY Tri Nations Australia v New Zealand FOOTBALL La Liga Barcelona v Racing Santander Real Madrid v Numancia Valladolid v Atletico Madrid ATHLETICS Stuttgart: IAAF World Athletics Final MOTOR RACING Formula 1 Italian Grand Prix FOOTBALL Champions League RUGBY LEAGUE Super League play-offs GOLF Kentucky: Ryder Cup TENNIS Davis Cup semi-final Spain v USA FOOTBALL EPL Bolton v Arsenal Liverpool v Stoke GAA Football All-Ireland Senior Championship - Final FOOTBALL EPL Chelsea v Man Utd FOOTBALL La Liga Atletico Madrid v Recreativo Huelva Sporting Gijon v Barcelona FOOTBALL La Liga Barcelona v Real Betis Getafe v Atletico Madrid Real Madrid v Sporting Gijon RUGBY LEAGUE Super League play-offs FOOTBALL EPL Arsenal v Hull Everton v Liverpool Man Utd v Bolton Stoke v Chelsea FOOTBALL La Liga Atletico Madrid v Sevilla Espanyol v Barcelona Real Betis v Real Madrid MOTOR RACING Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix

3rd Sep 6th Sep

RydeREUropE Cup U.S. vs.

7th Sep

8th-14th 10th Sep

T
32

Harry Watkinson looks ahead to this month’s Ryder Cup and looks back through the tournament’s history.
WORDS by HaRRy WatkinSOn

12th Sep 13th Sep

hose who know little of golf will still know of Tiger Woods. Those who know a bit more of the game famously referred to as ‘a good walk spoiled’, are now watching on in awe as the great champion continues in his attempt to be simply called the ‘greatest of all time’. To achieve this he must first surpass Jack Nicklaus’ record of 18 major championship victories; made up of the US Masters, US Open, British Open and US PGA. And, after heroically hobbling his way to another US Open crown, he now stands only five away from the magic milestone of 19. But victory in June came at a price for Woods. His season came to an abrupt end after having major surgery to restructure his knee and save his career. This left the two remaining major titles shorn of the most famous sportsman in the World, and it also left the US Ryder Cup team without its star attraction. Woods’ forced sabbatical immediately led those who both write about and watch golf to ask whether subsequent victories for the lesser mortals on the Tour would be devalued and that spectator interest would temporarily drop off. I myself temporarily bought into this line of thought until I attended the British Open in July. Once there, I was reminded of the

fact that a good sporting story can make all other issues drop away. On this occasion, the story was found in the unlikely figure of 53year-old Greg Norman, a 1000-1 shot before the tournament, having not played serious golf since 2005. Norman is a legend of the game, with only Woods himself spending more time as World Number 1. However, if you had suggested the Aussie, known to all as ‘the White Shark’, would be in position to take the ultimate prize, you’d have been asked to change your medicine. The fact he didn’t win made little difference. A great story had been told and by the end no-one was concerning themselves about who was or wasn’t in Liverpool. Don’t get me wrong, the game is all the poorer without Tiger prowling the fairways, but it will survive his absence. So, on this basis, I will predict the Ryder Cup, to be held in Kentucky, will again provide the sort of action that has made it one of the most exciting events to watch over the last 20 years. As long as another great tale is told, the event will be sure to escape from the shadow of the man who sits at home. Before I go on, it is important for those not in the know to have a crash course in the workings of one of the best international team

14th Sep

16th Sep 19th Sep 19th-21st 19th-21st 20th Sep 21st Sep

24th Sep

26th Sep 27th Sep

28th Sep

continued on page 34

sep 08

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ryder cup
Wes Welker

competitions. In the red corner, you have the USA and in the blue corner, Europe, with the match alternating between continents every other year. Get to 14 ½ points and the trophy is yours. If only it was that simple. The event officially started in 1927, with USA defeating Great Britain 9 ½ to 2 ½ . This started a sequence of matches stretching across half a century that nearly always ended with the Stars and Stripes giving the British boys a right royal spanking. Victory became a formality and interest dropped away. With its very existence under threat, the decision was taken to expand the Great Britain team to include all golfers in Europe. And at a stroke the competition was transformed and a hero of the Ryder Cup was born. He went by the name of Seve Ballesteros.

“I am delighted that the committee has decided to announce the captaincy for 2008 and can’t say how excited I am at the prospect of leading the European side in the U.S.,” said Faldo, the winner of three Opens and the Ryder Cup’s record points scorer. Ev’S playErS to watCh

tEam EUropE

Captain NiCk Faldo

Seve found his ideal match in fellow countryman, Jose Maria Olazábal. The two formed one of the greatest partnerships in any sport, becoming nigh unbeatable. And in this duo the key to Europe’s continued success could be found.

NFL 2008-2009
WORDS by tOmek PRzybySzeWSki

tEam EUropE
pádRaig HaRRiNgtoN Record: 17 matches (W-L-H) 7-8-2 (47% Point Percentage) lee WestWood Record: 25 matches (W-L-H) 14-8-3 (62% Point Percentage) seRgio gaRCía Record: 20 matches (W-L-H) 14-4-2 (75% Point Percentage) Captain paul aziNgeR “I just want to say that it is, I think, the greatest honour you can bestow on a professional golfer is to ask him to captain a Ryder Cup team, and I’m awestruck by it,” said Azinger, a member four Ryder Cup teams (1989, 1991, 1993 and 2002). Ev’S playErS to watCh

tEam U.S.a.

tEam U.S.a.

steWaRt CiNk Record: 12 matches (W-L-H) 3-5-4 (29% Point Percentage) pHil MiCkelsoN Record: 25 matches (W-L-H) 9-12-4 (44% Point Percentage) JiM FuRyk Record: 20 matches (W-L-H) 6-12-2 (35% Point Percentage)

Cup record. Once every two years Tiger will say how much he wants The sometimes wild and quite to win with his team, and once often wondrous Spaniard took every two years you will see him the event by the scruff on the course losing of the neck and by sheer matches and looking strength of character and like there were a whole golfing brilliance took host of places he would the fight to the Amerirather be. This was cans. In 1983, the Euromost patently shown peans got within a point when paired with the of winning and in 1985 World Number 2, Phil Seve Ballesteros they took the trophy Mickelson in 2004. The for the first time in 28 years. The dream team barely spoke to each next match was held in America other, they got beat and ultimately and once again Europe triumphed the USA got thrashed. So maybe, 15-13 after a nail biting finish. just maybe, the absence of Tiger It was in these two contests that will actually enhance rather than the excitement and drama of the hinder the chances of a victory for Ryder Cup came to the fore, and the Stars and Stripes. as part of this Seve found his ideal match in fellow countryman, Jose Who knows? Not sure myself, but Maria Olazábal. The two formed what I do know is there is every one of the greatest partnerships chance of more magic moments in any sport, becoming nigh being shown on our TV screens unbeatable. And in this duo the later this month. But, it will key to Europe’s continued success have some hard acts to follow, as could be found. there are already many never to be forgotten moments. In 1991, The nature of the competition there was the ‘war on the shore’ means that the golfers play in at Kiawah Island where Bernard partnership against each other Langer missed the final putt on on Friday and Saturday, and then the final green to lose the match. on the last day alone. Quickly In 1995, we had old foes Nick the contest became a contest of Faldo and Seve embracing in tears the superior teamwork of the on the 18th after securing the Europeans against the greater narrowest of wins; in 1999 there playing strength of the USA. And was the sight of the US players most often it was those going ballistic after on the east side of the Justin Leonard holed Atlantic who picked up an impossible putt and the prize by forming a then running all over unit much more than the 17th green with the sum of its parts. In Olazábal still waiting to contrast, the USA team putt. And then, in 2004 Justin Leonard quite often appeared and 2006, there has been totally incapable of the incredible sight of playing with one another. And the Americans being thrashed here you will find the reason why out of sight, with Tiger once again they may not miss Woods quite appearing all too mortal... We all as much as some may think. To hope the great man will be back look at the stats you will see for a soon, but that does not mean the player likely to be ‘the best of the party in Kentucky will be put on best’ he has a pretty lousy Ryder hold next month.

ast NFL season ended with the underdog Giants beating the undefeated Patriots in the Super Bowl, which arguably produced the biggest upset in the history of the competition, with the exception of another New York team, the Jets led by Joe Namath beating the Baltimore Colts in 1969. The odds are against the Giants making a repeat of their title, the Cowboys however might be a more likely candidate from the NFC, although teams like Seattle and any of the NFC South franchises could produce another surprise. The AFC has the same clear favorites as last season. The Colts have a stable of good runningbacks, a great passing game led by their star quarterback Peyton Manning and a very Brandon Jacobs solid defence. The Patriots and their incredible trio of Brady, Moss and Welker will yet again prove unstoppable and, provided their defensive unit holds up, we may be looking at another undefeated season. San Diego Chargers look to continue their growth, and, provided they stay healthy at key spots, they will challenge for their conference supremacy. Losing Michael Turner won’t hurt since they drafted a highly productive and talented Jacob Hester. The team to look out for are the St. Louis Rams, who Chris Long were hit hard by injuries last year. This season, with Steven Jackson, Drew Bennett and Marc Bulger healthy and the reshuffling of their offensive line they should bounce back to the top of their division. Adding ultra talented defensive lineman, Chris Long, will help their defence immeasurably. Football is back so sit back and enjoy, unless you’re Lions fan of course, in that case just sit back!

L

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World Cup Qualifying Saturday, 13 September Blackburn v Arsenal Saturday, 06 September Liverpool v Man Utd Andorra v England Man City v Chelsea FYR Macedonia v Scotland Georgia v Rep of Ireland Saturday, 20 September Slovakia v N. Ireland Bolton v Arsenal Spain v Bosnia-Herzegovina Liverpool v Stoke Wales v Azerbaijan Sunday, 21 September Wednesday, 10 September Chelsea v Man Utd Croatia v England Iceland v Scotland Saturday, 27 September Montenegro v Rep of Ireland Arsenal v Hull N. Ireland v Czech Republic Everton v Liverpool Russia v Wales Man Utd v Bolton Spain v Armenia Stoke v Chelsea

culture

The racism, in Spain, falls mainly on the pitch?
Hablar como los indios. Trabajar como un negro. Engañar como a un chino. El oro que cagó el moro. Hacer una judiada. Ser muy gitano... These examples of common expressions show that the Spanish tongue still contains a lot of racially charged language. But, language habits are one thing, and people’s attitudes are another. Peter Moore analyses the topic that has generated much bad press for the Spanish in recent years and asks an uncomfortable question: “How much racism is there in Spain?”
WORDS by PeteR mOORe

I
Marcos Senna

n June, as Luis Aragonés guided the Spanish national team to their first major trophy for 44 years, the population chewed worriedly away at their finger nails, expecting at any moment at emergence of that usual, horrid twist of fate. It could be a squandered opportunity in front of goal, a missed penalty, a calamitous refereeing decision or an elbow in the face. Spain had suffered them all. But the familiar Spanish curse was eerily absent. From start to finish they played with a zealous flair that led to excitable comparisons with Brazil, whilst coach Luis Aragonés peered on from the sidelines, looking as much like an irritable taxi driver as ever. A friend later told me, that if he was forced to nominate a moment when he fully expected Spain to combust, then it had come during the semi final with Italy. After 120

minutes of typically stout Italian defending, the match had fizzled out into an inevitable penalty shootout. Half of Spain hid behind their hands. For a country that had been suffered a catalogue of woes from the penalty spot, the prospect of a few more loomed. That Viennese night, however, found the imperious goalkeeper Iker Casillas in no mood for respecting tradition. Cuffing away a smart effort from Daniele De

Rossi, he gave Spain a vital early advantage that was immediately seized upon by Marcos Senna. The midfielder strode straight-backed and confidently to the penalty spot. After taking a few measured steps backwards, he jogged casually up to the ball and stroked it smoothly into the top righthand corner of the goal, sending Italian goalkeeper Gianluigi Buffon sprawling in the wrong direction. Senna had conducted his duty

Senna had conducted his duty with an effortless flourish, as if he was doing little more than making a cup of tea. Manolo el del Bombo thumped his drum in delight as Spain moved 3-1 ahead.
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culture
Race is an acute issue in early twenty first century Spanish society and its sporting arenas have often been attacked as a hotbed of racism; a breeding ground of bigots who are happy to jibe and provoke players simply because of the colour of their skin. This characterisation has grown during the past few years, stemming from the events of a few disastrous months in 2004 and 2005, when the scourge of racism seemed to run freely around Spanish football stadiums. The spark for the ensuing controversies was a throwaway comment by Luis Aragonés to José Antonio Reyes during a training match for the Spanish national team in 2004. Caught on camera, Aragonés was observed to have referred disparagingly to the French International striker Thierry Henry. “Tell that negro de mierda (piece of black shit) that you’re much better than him. Don’t hold back.” Fury ensued in the British press. National newspapers queued up to demand Aragonés’ dismissal. Sid Lowe, writing in The Guardian, speculated that, “In England Aragonés would probably have been sacked,” and even the sports editor of El Pais, Santiago Seguroila, agreed. “Luis Aragonés should have been fired. His words were intolerable,” he wrote. However, AS felt that Aragonés’ comments had been taken out of context, accusing the English of being “Very serious when it comes to race, politically correct to the extreme... just another way of hiding their own defects”. They were joined by Antena 3, which cited “absurd accusations” and “gross exaggerations” . A month later, however, on 17 November, during a friendly match between Spain and England in the Santiago Bernabéu Stadium, the fire was stoked again. Whilst the football was drab, the crowd weren’t. Waves of ape-chanting greeted every touch of the ball from England’s black players, Shawn Wright-Philips and Ashley Cole. Marcelino Bondjale, general secretary of the Coalición Española contra el Racismo, later said that: “Eight out of ten people were monkey chanting. It was more or less the whole stadium”. Once again the issue was propelled to the front pages of national newspapers. More incidents followed. In January, Atlético Madrid were fined £435 after Real Madrid’s Roberto Carlos was racially abused during the derby match. In the next months, Paulo Wanchope of Málaga was racially abused by a fan with a megaphone as he completed his warming down routine and half way through a match in Zaragoza, the Barcelona striker

with an effortless flourish, as if he was doing little more than making a cup of tea. Manolo el del Bombo thumped his drum in delight as Spain moved 3-1 ahead. It was a deficit from which Italy would never recover. When Cesc Fàbregas slotted the winning penalty past Buffon three minutes later, it signalled the first Spanish competitive victory over their Latin cousins since 1920. Although Casillas, rightly, remained the hero of the evening, Senna received praise from all quarters. His cool self assurance not just in the penalty shootout but throughout the tournament earned him glowing reviews. It was a seminal moment in Spanish sporting history. Not only had they evaded their ‘big tournament’ curse, but they had discovered their first black sporting hero. Senna was voted amongst UEFA’s top ten players and was heralded

Ashley Cole

as a “delight” on their official website. The Spanish sports daily AS referred to his performances as “phenomenal”, and in an online poll by Spain’s most influential newspaper, El Pais, 35% of readers voted him Spain’s finest player; beating Xavi and Casillas into second and third place respectively. Brazilian by birth and black by ethnicity, the significance of Senna’s involvement with the national team was almost as important as his performances on the pitch. He was something fresh, symbolic of the new ‘multicultural’ Spain. The reason behind this was stark, for when Senna is lined up alongside Spanish heroes of the past two decades: Indurain, Raúl, Nadal, Moya, Sánchez Vicario and Fernando Alonso to name but a few, then he does not just find himself surrounded by an array of incredibly talented athletes, but also by a sea of white faces.

Thierry Henry

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culture
Samuel Eto’o attempted to leave the pitch in disgust after suffering an hour of racist abuse. “No más!”, he bellowed, turning on his heels and making for the dressing room. Each time he had touched the ball the crowd had broken into monkey chants and showers of peanuts had been thrown onto the pitch. “This is a struggle beyond the football field,” he said later. “I made my decision because fans attacked me for my colour.” Once again the foreign press was unequivocal in its condemnation of Spain. “Racist insults at Spanish soccer games are now almost routine,” wrote Time Magazine in 2006. The Observer of Britain went further, arguing that the Spanish authorities were in “Denial about its racism” . However, it is important to be fair and balanced. Whilst barracking of Lewis Hamilton at a race meeting in Barcelona the February suggests that the problem is more than a storm in a tea cup, racism is not solely a Spanish problem. A quick sketch of European football proves this point beyond question. Dick Advocat of Zenit St Petersburg recently announced his intentions to keep his squad of players homogenously white, “The fans do not like black players,” he explained to international disgust. Meanwhile the problem of racist chanting in Holland has reached such seismic proportions that referees have been empowered to call a halt to a game in an attempt to curb the levels of abuse. In France, racist calling is a frequent scourge at football stadiums, despite the fact that the many of their national team were born in ex-French colonies, or have close ethnic roots in those former colonies or French Overseas Territories. In the worst occasion of racism of all, the chairman of Trabzonspor actually apologised to fans for the colour of Kevin Campbell’s skin. “We bought a cannibal who calls himself a striker. He is coloured. A great disappointment to the club.” Then, of course, the English racist past is as murky as most. Aragonés himself was quick to point this out when attacked by English journalists. “I know who is racist. I remember the colonies,” he pointed out. Indeed, it would be wrong to forget the horrific treatment despatched to early black players in the English football team. John Barnes suffered horribly, because he was middle class, Jamaican and perceived to be lazy. For another player, Cyrille Regis, it was even worse. When selected to play for England, he received a bullet through the post accompanied by a threat: “you’ll get one of these

Luis Aragonés

Roberto Carlos

Paulo Wanchope

Samuel Eto’o

Fury ensued in the British press. National newspapers queued up to demand Aragonés’ dismissal. Sid Lowe, writing in The Guardian, speculated that, “In England Aragonés would probably have been sacked.”
through your knees if you step on our Wembley turf”. Eventually it took four decades, the introduction of CCTV at football grounds, the success of a ‘Let’s kick racism out of football campaign’ and the successful combat of rightwing groups to rid British football of racism. Now, in the early twenty first century ‘racist’ is the worst charge you can lay against a Brit. The black US comedian Reginald D. Hunter lampooned this fact recently, arguing at a stand-up show that, “I love being in London and accusing a person of being racist, because they’ll follow you around and buy you drinks for the rest of the night to prove you wrong.” wearing an orange wig and a kilt,” one noted on an Internet message board. So, in Spain, are these incidents as sinister as they are portrayed in the international press, or are they just indicative of a national sense of humour and tendency to be direct? Certainly you can argue that latter point. Aragonés for one is known for his firm opinions (demonstrated by his recent observation that, “If (Gennaro) Gattuso is a great player, then I am a priest”), but he is certainly not racist. Senna himself hailed Aragonés “A spectacular person,” and in reference to his comments towards Henry he noted that, “Maybe something escaped, a word, and he was misinterpreted.” Incidents at football matches also may stem from humour, as may some of the comments in the national media (Marca infamously noted that, “Since Guti has started running like a black man, no one misses Makélélé”), but in modern society they jar. The significance of Marcos Senna’s role at Euro 2008 should not be missed. And now, as Spain takes bold strides through the linguistic and cultural minefield towards a balanced level of political correctness, they can do so with a talismanic sporting hero for inspiration. Perhaps, the midfielder is a lone sporting pioneer, but it’d be better to consider him a glimpse of Spain’s rich multicultural future.

Lewis Hamilton

Kevin Campbell

John Barnes

In Spain, this same sense of ‘political correctness’ does not exist. This is proven by the most common explanation offered for outbreaks of racist chanting. Juan Castro, a journalist for Marca explained that, “Monkey chanting does not have a racial cause,” he claimed. “It is a way of insulting the enemy team… The (incident at) the Bernabéu was a cultural thing. It was a joke. It wasn’t Cyrille Regis racist.” Similar explanations are offered for the recent incident at Barcelona’s Circuit de Catalunya with Lewis Hamilton. A group of Alonso supporters arrived dressed with Hamilton t-shirts, black wigs and their faces blackened. “It is just the same as imitating a Scotsman by

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discover madrid

Girls in Madrid
a survival guide
When you’ve moved to a new city, kicked off your heels, unpacked your suitcase and plugged in your straighteners, there are probably a few things you want to find out. Although ‘Where’s the nearest bar?’ might be fairly near the top of the list, there are some other, slightly more fundamental, matters to deal with, so with this in mind here’s Helen Macrae’s basic guide to what every woman needs to know about living in Madrid.
WORDS by Helen macRae

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naughtiness comes as standard), Huertas/Sol for Irish bars, sport and rowdy stag dos, and Chueca for a carnival atmosphere and hot men (they may all be gay, but no harm in looking!).

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Of course when you’re out and about, keep personal safety in mind. Madrid is generally not a dangerous city but as a woman you are more vulnerable, so use your common sense. Don’t walk around by yourself after dark and avoid getting the Metro alone late at night, taxis are your best bet. Madrid’s worst problem is petty crime such as pick pocketing, so don’t have valuables on show and watch your belongings at all times, especially on the Metro, in restaurants/terrazas, and in more touristy areas. Unfortunately, there can also be threats in areas of your life where you thought it was safe, such as at work. Apart from the vague suspicion one of my students was occasionally putting his hands down his trousers, I’ve never experienced anything resembling sexual harassment in the workplace, but if you do suffer discrimination at work you can report it. Complaints can be lodged at Women’s Rights Information Centres (Centros de Información de los Derechos de la Mujer) and a free 24-hour helpline (900 191 010) can provide advice on general legal matters and sexual harassment problems. ¡Estás como un queso! As a sassy girl-about-town you’re bound to attract your fair share of attention, so be prepared for the odd lecherous comment from men in the street. As per always, workmen are the worst offenders. Be dignified about it and take it as a compliment, even if you feel like turning round and ramming your stiletto down his throat. The same goes for ogling - that old adage ‘it’s rude to stare’ doesn’t apply here so don’t be insulted…just stare back! Which leads me nicely onto my final point: Spanish men, those mysterious and often puzzling beings, many of whom still consider the mullet a good look. As a Brit, I certainly find them more direct than my bloke-shaped compatriots, and they come armed with different ideas on a whole host of things: chat-up lines, personal space, aforementioned hairstyles, when to say I love you (after a week = scary NOT romantic), thus making the dating game a veritable minefield. But hey, variety is the spice of life, so now you’re done reading this why don’t you get out there and meet a few for yourself?

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Spanish men: they come armed with different ideas on a whole host of things: chat-up lines, personal space, aforementioned hairstyles, when to say I love you (after a week = scary NOT romantic), thus making the dating game a veritable minefield.

Let’s get the serious stuff out of the way first. To register at a doctor’s surgery you’ll need to take your social security number along with your passport to your nearest health centre to apply for your health card (tarjeta sanitaria). The contraceptive pill can generally be bought over the counter in Spain, and the morning-after pill (la píldora del día después) can be obtained from a gynaecologist, at a greatly reduced price if you present your health card. Abortion is legal here, but only covered by social security under certain circumstances, so most terminations are carried out in private clinics. For more detailed information, check out www.angloinfo.com. Now for another serious matter…shopping! Quirky boutiques and trendy labels can be found in Malasaña and Chueca, whereas for designer togs and pijos aplenty, head to C/Serrano in Salamanca. If cheap and cheerful is more your thing, the usual suspects (Zara, Bershka, Mango, Blanco, H&M) are dotted all over the city, as are stores of that great Spanish institution El Corte Inglés (great for those hard-to-find items but also hard-to-find your way out or a shop assistant who will help you). The streets around Puerta del Sol (Preciados/Carretas/Arenal) are the best place for cheap but lovely shoes. Most places are open Monday-Saturday around 10am-9pm (El Corte Inglés 10am-10pm) although large shopping centres and the shops around Sol and Gran Vía open on Sundays. The concept of trousers in different leg lengths hasn’t caught on in Spain yet, sizes here are on the none-too-generous

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side and you’ll have trouble brashopping if you’re much bigger than a D-cup – you have been warned!

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With all those shiny new clothes you’ll need a hairdo to match. Hairdressers are generally quite cheap here but watch out for those added extras – the price quoted in the window is often just for the cut and you’ll be charged more for shampoo, conditioning cream, blow-dry etc. Most places aren’t English-speaking so brush up on your vocabulary beforehand. Be aware of the difference between peinar and secar – the former includes styling whereas the latter is just a quick blast with the hairdryer before being booted out the door. Waxing is an important part of your lady MOT and completely necessary if you’re considering going anywhere near the pool/beach. Luckily, Spanish women love to depilar, so there are plenty of reasonably-priced places and often you don’t need to make an appointment, unless you’re planning on a full body job. Most of the major hairdressing chains offer beauty treatments, but personal recommendation is always best, so ask around. After all that shopping and grooming, it’s time to treat yourself to a cocktail or two! But where? Try La Latina for cool bars full of urban hipsters, Moncloa/Argüelles for the student hangouts, Lavapiés for a more bohemian vibe and Salamanca/Castellana if you want to net yourself a footballer. Party in Malasaña with the young and funky (botellón

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culture

Feeling good to be Spanish?
Part 1

In a two-part series, Luc Ciotkowski investigates why national pride has been accompanied for many with shame and how far recent sporting triumphs have gone to healing the cracks.
WORDS by luc ciOtkOWSki

erning powers that the Basque Country had always enjoyed had been revoked due to their support of the Carlist side during the Carlist Wars. The founder of the Basque Nationalist Party, Sabino Arana, campaigned for support under the slogan “God and self-government”. Arana was responsible for designing the Basque national flag (with his brother), reviving the long in-decline Basque language and Neo-Darwinist rants which wouldn’t have looked out of place in Nazi Germany, like this one:

he glorious triumphs of Spain at Euro 2008, Rafa Nadal’s victories at RolandGarros and Wimbledon, Sastre’s performance on the Tour de France and the heroics of Spain’s olympians have most other nationalities envious, but are the Spaniards feeling good about being Spanish? The separatist and regionalist divisions that currently exist in Spain are much Rafa Nadal publicised. However, if we’re going to answer the question of whether the Spanish feel united again, we must ask if they ever really felt united in the first place. To do that, we need to have a little look at history. Spain started to be modern Spain when Isabella of Castile and Ferdinand of Aragon unified the crowns of their kingdoms. Together, as the Catholic Monarchs, they emptied the last of the Moors out the peninsula, banished the Jews, set up the Spanish Inquisition and had the stroke of luck that Columbus found them a new continent full of riches. Catalonia belonged to the Crown of Aragon, which over time very much became the junior partner in the union with Castile. Castile imposed itself more on the reconquered south and Seville was happy to be the only authorised trading port with the Americas. Throughout the Golden Era of the 16th and 17th centuries, Barcelona saw its importance decline as trade moved from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic while Castilian Spanish became the preferred tongue

T

of the empire over all the other Iberian languages. A very important thing to bear in mind during this time, though, was that the different regions were actually separate kingdoms, principalities or counties, bound to the Spanish crown, but with quite extensive self-governing charters called fueros. While these regional powers were gradually dismantled, the Basque Country kept its fueros and Basques began to see them as rights rather than privileges. The start of the 19th century was a spectacularly rubbish time for Spain to get invaded by France, but they did. Although the first effective application of guerrilla warfare helped the Spanish to unite in ridding Spain of the Bonapartes, Spaniards quickly realised they were utterly divided on how a new independent Spain should be. A decade later, Spain’s empire was all but wiped out and Ferdinand VII taking back absolute power for the monarchy was making the country’s political landscape look very fragile. Before his death, Ferdinand changed Spain’s laws of succession, which had before made it impossible for any female heir to ascend to the throne if there were any living male heir, so that his daughter, Isabella, could become queen instead of the crown going to his brother Carlos. Spain’s traditionalists and staunch Catholics sided with Carlos and Carlism was born. The rest of the century saw the Carlist civil wars rip deep divisions between the

Spanish, and the belated arrival of the Industrial Revolution in Spain brought with it the new political ideologies of Socialism, Communism and Anarchism. By the end of the century, pretty much everyone in Spain was an ’-ist’ of some kind. The driving forces in Spain’s Industrial Revolution were Catalonia (textile industry and trade centre) and the Basque Country (heavy industries: iron and coal mining, ship building). It’s difficult to overstate the importance of Catalan and Basque industrial preeminence in the late 19th century and early 20th century in shaping today’s political climate in those regions. At this stage, we have to note that a sense of nationalism was not as keenly developed as in other European countries; whether in Aragon, Catalonia, Extremadura or Andalucia, people’s first affinity was to the pueblo. The Catalan nationalist/ regionalist movement grew from the burgeoning middle class of workshop/factory owners and merchants and was more to do with perceived excessive control and taxation from Madrid than anything else. The Basque movement, however, was fuelled by cultural and racial issues more than economic ones. What had always been a rural region with a deeply traditional and religious people, was quickly becoming an industrial centre with mass immigration from other parts of Spain and all the ‘ungodliness’ typical of the new industrial towns and cities. The self-gov-

“A great number of them[non-Basque Spaniards] seem to be undeniable testimony of Darwin’s theory, since rather than men they resemble apes, rather less beastly than gorillas: do not search in their faces for the expression of human intelligence nor of any virtue; their eyes only reveal idiocy and brutishness. ”
However, Arana’s ‘racial purity’ fears struck a chord with the Basques who felt threatened by the arrival of so many maketos (non-Basque Spanish). Indeed, ’ungodliness’ was growing all the time all over Spain as the influence and power of the Church fuelled resentment of it. A short-lived First Republic gave an addictive taster to liberalminded Spaniards before the Bourbon monarchy was restored. Army generals had taken to stepping in and seizing control of the government whenever things got shaky and, to avoid this, the conservative Cánovas del Castillo devised a system of election rigging, designed to keep everyone happy. Conservatives swapped power with progressives every four years, something which destroyed parliament’s last shred of credibility among the people. Cánovas de Castillo was assassinated while serving as prime minister in 1897, his killer was an Italian anarchist. This turmoil would be dwarfed a year later, though, when Spain’s self-image would hit an all-time low.

TO BE CONTINUED...

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the section for learning spanish

Vocabulario

OPENING A BANK ACCOUNT ABRIR UNA CUENTA EN UN BANCO
Expresiones útiles
Dices Oyes

Diálogo

cuenta > account abrir > open dinero > money tarjeta de débito > debit card tarjeta de crédito > credit card talonario de cheques > check/cheque book libreta > bankbook clave > pin pasaporte > passport certificado de residencia > residence certificate titular > account holder ingresar > put into an account sacar > withdrawn cajero > cashpoint/ATM comisión > commission

Colin acaba de mudarse a Granada y quiere abrir una cuenta en el banco. Empleado de banco: EB Colin: C

Quiero/quería abrir una cuenta

¿Eres tú el titular?

Necesito una tarjeta Necesito tu pasaporte de crédito Voy a ingresar 500 euros Quiero sacar 400 euros ¿Cuál es mi clave de acceso a Internet? ¿Tienes una dirección fija en España? ¿Estás trabajando? ¿Con cuánto dinero quieres abrir la cuenta?

Información útil
“Bancos” and “cajas de ahorros” are open Monday through to Friday from 8.30 am to 2 pm. “Cajas de ahorros” are also open on Thursday afternoon until 6 from October to May. Spanish “bancos” are the equivalent to banks while “cajas de ahorros” are more similar to a building society in the UK. There are three main networks of ATMs in Spain: 4B, Servired and Red 6000. Always try to use an ATM from your network, otherwise you will be charged a rather steep commission.

C: Hola. Buenos días EB: Hola. Buenos días. ¿En qué le puedo ayudar? C: Quiero abrir una cuenta en este banco. EB: ¿Es usted el titular? C: ¿Perdón? EB: ¿Es para usted? C: Sí, sí. Gracias. EB: Muy bien. ¿Es residente de la Unión Europea? C: Sí, soy galés. EB: Necesito su pasaporte, por favor. ¿Tienes permiso de residencia? C: Sí, aquí tengo el papel. EB: Muy bien. ¿Con cuánto dinero quiere abrir la cuenta? C: Con 500 euros por favor. Necesito también una tarjeta de crédito. EB: No hay problema. La recibirá en su casa en 15 días. Aquí tiene el contrato. Puede leerlo y firmarlo. C: Gracias. Ah, pero está todo en español. ¿Lo tienen en inglés? EB: No, lo siento. C: Entonces voy a tener que dedicarle un poco de tiempo para comprenderlo. EB: No hay problema. ¡No cerramos hasta las 2!

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the section for learning spanish

Intermediate Section
Hola a todos
Aquí estamos un mes más para dar respuesta a vuestros problemas y dificultades en España. Esperamos muchas cartas más.

Advanced Section

LA vUELTA AL COLE

Hola Susana Por fin he decidido sacarme el carné de conducir. El único problema es que creo que será muy difícil estudiar todo en español. ¿Sabes si es posible hacer la parte teórica en inglés? Gracias Leo Hola Leo Gracias por tu mensaje. Según me han comentado sí es posible hacer el examen en inglés en Madrid. No conozco ningún centro en concreto así que te sugiero que preguntes en tu autoescuela más cercana. Seguro que ellos sabrán asesorarte. Y ¡buena suerte! Susana Querida Susana He tenido, sin duda, el mejor verano de mi vida; lo he pasado trabajando de camarera en Valencia donde he conocido a un chico genial. Es español y vive allí. Me ha pedido que me vaya a vivir allí pues quiere seguir viéndome. ¿Tú qué harías? Un abrazo Megan Hola Megan Me ha encantado tu carta. No se trata tanto de lo que yo haría, sino de lo que te diga tu corazón. Si te sirve de consejo yo una vez tuve que tomar una decisión similar pero en mi caso yo era quién recibía a esa persona especial en mi país y puedo decirte que todavía hoy sigo siendo muy feliz. Dejate llevar por tus impulsos y recuerda que ¡no solo se viven pasiones en verano! Susana Hola Lingostar Llevo ya un tiempo estudiando español y tengo “mucha”

EL CONSULTORIO DE LINGOSTAR

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problema con el masculino y el femenino pues no existen en mi lengua. Si las palabras que acaban en “o” son masculinas, ¿por qué decimos la “foto” y la “moto? Gracias por tu ayuda Peter Querido Peter En primer lugar, recuerda que no hay reglas absolutas sobre le género en español. Las palabras que acaban en “o” tienden a ser masculinas pero hay muchos ejemplos de femeninas. Sobre tus dos dudas, estas palabras se usan en español de forma abreviada pero son en realidad “la fotografía” y “la motocicleta”. ¿Entiendes ahora mejor por qué son femeninas? Sobre “la problema”, recuerda que todas las palabras que acaban en –ema son masculinas. Algunos ejemplos son tema, teorema, sistema o problema. Espero haberte ayudado Saludos Susana Hola Lingostar Estoy harta de mi novio. Es español y siempre que le pido ayuda para mejorar me dice que él no sabe y que es mejor si se lo pregunto a mi profesor. ¿No crees que debería ayudarme un poco más? Petra Hola Petra Claro que creo que tu novio debería ayudarte un poco más pero tu situación es bastante común entre las parejas mixtas. Si no puedes hacerlo con tu novio, pregunta a tus amigos las dudas que tengas o intenta practicar con ellos todo lo que puedas. Un beso Susana

e esta manera da comienzo año tras año la campaña comercial de unos conocidos almacenes españoles. Y es que en Septiembre todo vuelve: las clases, el curro, la dieta, y lo más doloroso, las deudas. Respecto a esto último hay algo que todavía me deja sin palabras respecto a mis compatriotas: no importa lo endeudados que estén porque para ellos el verano es sagrado. Es esa época del año en la que puedes permitírtelo todo aunque no tengas dinero en efectivo para abonarlo: desde el “pescaito” en el chiringuito hasta el cóctel a pie de piscina tropical. Algunos llegan incluso a pedir un préstamo al banco para no quedarse sin su escapadita a la playa. Por suerte las cosas van cambiando puesto que nos vamos haciendo más “europeos” y cada vez más gente disfruta de las vacaciones en diferentes momentos del año. No como antes, hace años cuando el que se quedaba en casa en Agosto era calificado de ser un “don nadie”. Recuerdo con pena a una familia del vecindario que para evitar la humillación de reconocer que no tenían presupuesto para irse a la playa, se encerraron en casa con las persianas bajadas ¡durante quince días! Cuando “a la vuelta” la gente comentaba los blancos que estaban ellos se disculpaban diciendo que “les había llovido todo el tiempo”. ¡Patético! Volviendo al mes que nos ocupa, Septiembre siempre me ha gustado; simboliza para mí la vuelta a lo cotidiano, a lo de siempre. Para muchos, sin embargo, este es el “mes del bajón” ya que al abrir la maleta ya de vuelta a casa se acuerdan de lo poco que les gusta su trabajo. No es este el mejor momento para renunciar a el puesto porque les toca pagar el crédito que pidieron para disfrutar del crucero por las islas griegas bajo el régimen de “todo incluido”. ¡Bienvenidos a todos!

Cosas que hacer en Madrid para prevenir la depresión
Si acabas de regresar de tus vacaciones y la vuelta a la rutina se te está haciendo cuesta arriba, sigue leyendo y descubrirás que “no todo lo bueno acaba el 31 de Agosto”. Disfruta de las piscinas de Madrid (al menos hasta el día 7 de Septiembre) Comienza a hacer planes para las Navidades. Si no te has quedado sin un duro este verano planifica el fin de año y reserva el viaje. Tener una ilusión te ayudará a sobrellevar la vuelta a la rutina. Aprovecha las terrazas que echarán el cierre a finales de mes. Ponte en forma. Líbrate de esos kilitos de más que has cogido estás vacaciones. Organiza cenas con amigos e intercambiad todas las experiencias de estas vacaciones Y… cambia todo lo que no te guste: de piso, de novio/a, de trabajo, de estilo…

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services
>Jobs
Dynamic telemarketing company is looking for individuals to work in a high energy office environment. Applicants must speak fluent English. Basic salary and bonus package offered. If interested, contact Mark on 91 703 0222. Any good in the kitchen? At TONY’S CAFE we are currently looking for bar and kitchen staff. If you would like to be part of our team in this exciting new venture please forward your cv to sara_ lluvia@yahoo.es or call Tony on 626322758 Sales Positions Available European Vibe is in the process of expanding. If you are fluent in both English and Spanish, and feel you have what it takes to add to our sales team, send a cv to scott@ europeanvibe.com salaries with good commissions available. Native qualified English Teachers Sept-June contract We are currently looking for eager, enthusiatic and lively teachers to work in the centre of Madrid. Knowledge and passion in Marketing and Advertising would be an asset. Please send CV. virtuaenglish@gmail.com English teacher needed for September We need an English teacher for our next course starting on the 15th of September and finishing in June. Afternoon classes for children Monday to Friday from 4 to 8 approx.We offer contract (work perimit needed!), block hours & nice working astmosphere. Please send your CV to: puestodeprofe@yahoo.es Language school in Madrid Language school in Madrid is looking for a native teacher of English for classes with teenagers and adults at the first level. Candidates must be proficient in grammar and have knowledge of exam requirements. e-mail: info@gnpidiomas.com Funny guides to young people Would you like meet new people, learn interesting things about Madrid and enjoy show this city? If you are a talkative, outgoing and dinamic person. CALL US!!! We are looking for people like you. info@mymadridfreetour.com Writers with Talent If you think you are a talented writer and would like to see some of your articles and interviews published, send some examples of your work and a CV to editor@europeanvibe.com DJ’s If you consider yourself a talented Club DJ and have considerable experience send an e-mail to info@europeanvibe.com Bar staff required Moore’s Pub - call Morys - 915326331 Full time teacher Academia de idiomas Mission English, busca profesor de inglés a tiempo completo, para trabajar en la zona de cuatro vientos. Comienzo en Septiembre 2008. NECESARIO DELTA ó Master en enseñanza ó equivalente. Excelentes condiciones y remuneración. Interesados rellenar el Aplication Form en nuestra pagina web. www.missioenglish.net Summer and Fall positions Now interviewing experienced, qualified EFL teachers. Request application. www.americanlanguage.es AMERICAN LANGUAGE ACADEMY efl@americanlanguage.es Part-time Secretary Small company require a part-time secretary. English is essential, Spanish is beneficial. Good knowledge of MS Word, Excel and basic mathematics required. semaj_drahcir@yahoo.co.uk Great Opportunity We have several courses with the Spanish Military that run for one month (September), two months (October and November), four months (September to December), or even the entire school year (September to June). For people looking for stable, guaranteed work. For people with their working papers and with at least 6 months of experience. amber@shakespeare-li.com Thamesis We are currently recruiting Native english teachers for 20-25 hour contracts to start september 2008. Please send CV. thamesis@thamesis.es Global Services We are looking for CELTA qualified freelance teachers to start in September and October. Please send C.V. to nicki@globalservices.com.es Advantage Language School We are looking for teachers for company, after-school program and small group academy classes. In and around Madrid, if interested send C.V. info@ advantagelanguageschool.com

You are looking for:

A well-established, centrally located school Attractive salaries Free Spanish classes

Dynamic, motivated professionals with a university degree and TEFL, with 1+ years teaching experience, eligible to work in Spain

We are looking for:

Are you an English Teacher? Come work with us!
www.americanlanguage.es efl@americanlanguage.es 91-445 5511 C/ Rodríguez San Pedro, 2 Metro: San Bernardo

TEACHING VACANCIES
Job Description Contract Type Full-Time/Part-Time

International House Idiomas

www.ihmadrid.com

International House Madrid, a large language school with five centres in Madrid, is looking for qualified and enthusiastic teaching staff. On a full-time contract you will be expected to teach 24 hours, cover stand-by slots, complete administration associated with the course and attend teacher development sessions. Your timetable will be a mixture of adult, young learner and in-company classes. Some of your timetable will be onsite, while some will be offsite. You will need to travel to these sites. You will receive support from the DOSes / ADOSes / supervisors across the school.

Pre-requisites
Cambridge CELTA, Trinity TESOL, PGCE + TEFL experience, or equivalent EU passport holder (native speakers) or valid work permit for Spain Degree

Skill Range
Experience of teaching Young Learners is particularly desirable. For In-company Teaching positions, professional experience is extremely valuable. For further details look at our website: www.ihmadrid.com or contact Recruitment at rrhh@ihmadrid.com or telephone: 902 14 15 17 When applying please attach the following: a copy of your TEFL certificate, a copy of your degree certificate, your CV.

TEACHING POSITIONS MADRID, SPAIN
Full Time Contract Competitive Salary Plus Social Security Paid Holidays Fixed Monthly Salary Class Cancellations Paid On Going Training Long Term Career Prospects Free Spanish Classes Assistance with Accommodation and Legal Documents

JOB OFFER!
Looking for experienced, native English teachers and translators. We would be happy to supply you with more detailed information, an application form and interview. Tutor 25, 28008 Madrid 00 34 915 593 129 00 34 915 488 284 onetoone@es-onetoone.com www.es-onetoone.com

Travel the world by phone

Dynamic telemarketing company is looking for individuals to work in a high energy office environment. Applicants must speak fluent English. Basic salary and bonus package offered. If interested, contact Mark on 91 703 0222.

If you are looking for a stable and rewarding teaching position come and work for Talking Point. We offer the chance to develop your career and grow within a friendly and professional environment . Please contact the Academy Director, Abbie Coburn at

personnel@talkingpoint.es
TEFL or equivalent required. Background knowledge in Law, Finance, Marketing or Business Studies preferred. Candidates must be legally entitled to work in Spain

ESL TEACHERS NEEDED
Beacon Language Consultants is looking for qualified English, French, Chinese and Spanish teachers with three years experience. We teach in the best multinational companies offering top quality language professionals. We offer job security, promotional opportunities, in-house training, and friendly atmosphere. Email CV info@beacon-lc.com C/ Miguel Ángel, 4. Telf. 91 391 42 29

“The school seriously dedicated to teacher support and development”

www.trainingexpress.es

Looking for dynamic, qualified native teachers. Competitive rates Training workshops Free Spanish classes Social outings programme
Send CV to Janice at: jhaywood@windsor-idiomas.com

WHAT YOU WANT AND MORE!
Enjoy your life in Madrid to the full! Work for Training Express, leaders in language learning Great work opportunities Excellent rates per hour Free spanish lessons and much much more...

www.beacon-lc.com

www.windsor-idiomas.com

Interested and have an EU work permit? Contact us NOW: jobs@trainingexpress.es TEL: 91-5211554

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services
>Jobs >Language Academies

Teach English
with hot English languagE sErvicEs
We are continuously recruiting TEFL-qualified, native English teachers to give company classes at our prestigious clients’ offices. We offer good rates of pay and timetables and excellent pedagogical support from our teaching and editorial team, plus our very own teaching method.

Want to have fun while learning Spanish?

Carpe SCHOOL Diem SpaNiSH
Seize the day and join Carpe Diem school in Madrid

C/ Fuencarral, 13 2º derecha. 28004 Tel: 915223122 www.carpemadrid.com

• Flexible schedules • Accommodation • Small groups, max 7 students per class • DELE Exam preparation • Private lessons

>Internships
Internships now available with a professional, young and growing Madrid based company. Gain knowledge and experience in the work place in the areas of Graphic Design, Marketing, PR and Journalism. Flexible hours available and full references given on completion of Internship. Send a full CV to info@ europeanvibe.com

>Intercambios
teacherinfo@hotenglishmagazine.com or call 91 543 3573
www.hotenglishmagazine.com Please send your CV to:
TERTULIA INTERNACIONAL cada domingo a las 5 en el Pub Shamrocks (Paseo Pintor Rosales, 6 - metro Plaza de España o Ventura Rodríguez). Ven a intercambiar idiomas y a hacer nuevos amigos en un ambiente acogedor. E-mail: forspanish@hotmail.com

>Language exchange
Language Exchange Hi, I’m a 32yo male, Spanish, from Madrid. I usually work in african countries, where i speak english, but i still make many mistakes and lack vocabulary, so, while i’m back here on holidays, i would love to share englishspanish conversation with native speakers. I know madrid very well, including cultural staff and best places. santizco@yahoo.es Hello! I am a Spanish student (English Philology) interested on practising my English during this summer. I am 20 years old and I am looking for a friendship. I love reading, going out, walking through the lovely streets of Madrid... So, please contact me! Looking forward to hearing of you, alfonlologo@gmail.com English or Français for my Spanish Hi there! It’s Bárbara here, a Spanish girl interested in languages who wants to improve her English and French. If you’re interested as well, send an e-mail to barbybtp@gmail.com. I’ll help you with your Spanish!! Salut! Je

suis Bárbara, une fille espagnole qui veut apprendre mieux le français et le pratiquer avec des gens qui veulent faire un échange, si vous êtes interessés, vous savez déjà quoi faire! “Spanenglish” I am a 26 year old girl from Spain. I’d like to improve my English this summer. If you want to do the same but with your Spanish, contact to me! neni1111@hotmail.com English - Spanish Hello!! I am a native English speaker from Manchester, UK, I would like to learn Spanish quickly! My level is good but I need to improve. If you have some time to exchange Spanish for English over a cerveza or three send me an e-mail. Thanks! samuelwatson@hotmail.co.uk My English for your Spanish I’m a 34 y/o Bostonian (yes, American) who will be moving to Madrd in March of 2009. I need to practice my Spanish as well as can help you with your English (American English). I have Skype so perhaps we can chat online for some time? I will also be making a trip to Madrid sometime in the next few months to get an apartment, etc. It will be nice to connect with local people. todcast@gmail.com Skypename : ctoddlombardo

>Language Courses Abroad
Want to Learn English in London?
can Help You Find the Best Language School & Accommodation for You We offer FREE Advice to Students looking to come to London to Learn English Call us Today on: 902 02 47 49 (from Spain) or +44 20 7402 8651 (from rest of the world)
Visit: www.answerenglish.com or Send an e-mail to: james@answerenglish.com

>Clubs
Australian Alumni Association of Spain Meet, network and socialise with people who have studied or lived in Australia and are now in Spain. Email australianalumnispain@gmail.com to receive updates on upcoming events. English Reading Circle at the International Institute Library. Monthly meetings to discuss English literature in English. For more information visit www.iie.es or write to biblioteca@iie.es. Public Speaking and Networking Group. International group that meets to improve public speaking skills. 2nd & 4th Thursday each month at 2030 Bar Locandita (C/Fuencarral 148) Contact:standingovationmadrid@yahoo.

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services
com or Chris 695 513 466. Democrats Abroad Madrid Info: es.democratsabroad.org Brand new Aerobics in English club. Great routines, completely in English and banging music to boot! Phone Cheryl on 677244074 or email frenchfancy@ gmail.com for times and location. Australian Alumni Association of Spain Meet, network and socialise with people who have studied or lived in Australia and are now in Spain. Email australianalumnispain@gmail.com to receive updates on upcoming events. Writers’ group Writers with work in progress and a view to publication welcome. Call Charlie on 91 816 2419, or e-mail madridwriters@patchword.com The Australian Club in Madrid meets 9pm first Friday of each month at the Irish Rover, Avda. De Brasil, 7. Metro Santiago Bernabeu. For more info call Jeff on 669 458 341, or visit website: www.australiaspain.com/gudonya, or email: gudonya@australiaspain.com Madrid Players, English-language theatrical group. We put on plays, small productions, do in-house readings, improvisations, etc. We meet every Thursday. For info call 91 521 16 98 or 91 564 57 01. We’re an international group (people from 20 to 35). Guided visits, walks in Madrid, learning history of Madrid and making new friends. Sat mornings every 2 weeks. Free. E-mail: Bbbb7@mixmail.com Voleyball We are looking for voleyball players, different ages (m/f ). Send a email to: jl_ag@hotmail.com Thai boxing club in Madrid welcomes new members of all sexes & levels to learn this amazing sport, get fit, lean & hard. Visit www.muaythaimadrid. com email info@muaythaimadrid.com or call David on 662164877. futbolmadrid Los Galácticos – Friendly international 5-a-side football in Madrid every Wednesday and Saturday. All abilities and nationalities welcome. To play, all you have to do is find out what time, where and sign up on our web board: http://futbolmadrid.proboards49.com Hockey! Come along and join us at the weekends for mixed non-league field/grass hockey on water-based astroturf. We play at the Federación Madrileña de Hockey (opposite the Somontes sports club on the Madrid-El Pardo road) Email: los_naranjas@yahoo. com.au for more info. Cricket in Madrid Madrid Cricket Club is looking for players of all levels and nationalities. Play in the Spanish league! Contact David (670087637) or Manny (627557572) Madrid Hash House Harriers still running (and walking) after 21 years! Fresh air, exercise, a chat & a beer are our ingredients to liven up a boring Sunday: www.madridhhh.com The Dodge. Dodgeball Practice in Madrid. www.dodgeballmadrid. bravehost.com Basketball Madrid. Meet new people, get fit and enjoy yourself. People wanted to practice basketball once a week. Active social calander. Contact Rob at 697 345 613 or visit www. basketballpractice.myfree.org. Mountain Bike Club. Riders wanted to set up mountain bike club in Madrid. Male, female riders interested in getting together for rides in madrid and out into the sierra contact me on 914638865 Hockey! Come along and join us at Somontes sports centre (on the Madrid-El Pardo road) on Saturdays for mixed non-league field/grass hockey on water-based astroturf pitch. Email: los_naranjas@yahoo.com.au for more info. Madrid Lions Rugby Club needs you! All nationalities and player levels welcome. More information from Charlie on 636 067 716 and website www. madridlionsrfc.com Youth Baseball. Close to Alcala de Henares. We need coaches, players and anyone able to help us develop a youth league in this area. Tel Jose on: 91 879 3068 (eves) Madrid Club de Lacrosse. Interested in playing lacrosse? E-mail: contacto@madridlacrosse.com. Lacrosse is a great mixture of hockey and tennis! Practices for both men and women. All ages welcome. www.madridlacrosse. com Snooker: Right on Cue and in the Frame. Fancy a break and a Snooker experience second to none? Cue Mark on 618 784 550 or email break4snooker@yahoo.es

>Miscellaneous
Pancarta.es is Spain’s leading print service for international clients. Everything from exhibitions to business cards. All in English! www.pancarta.es 622 142 385 - 931 924 153 English Speaking Handyman Juan 670797638 Proinc Construction 918464363 Proinc.constucciones@gmail.com

>Sports Clubs
¡YNWA! MADrid REDS, the Official Branch of Liverpool FC supporters in Madrid meets for all televised games at the Triskel Tavern, calle San Vicente Ferrer, 3; Metro: Tribunal. www.MADridREDS.com ; info@MADridREDS.com

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>Beauty, health and Fitness
Aerobics club Cheryl 677244074 info@7starfitness.com Personal Trainer www.davidhughes.es Tel: 662164877. Hair and Make up artist Shimanda 914457149/699362500 Shimanda11@ hotmail.co.uk US Psychotherapist David Hugener 915942208 Mobile Hairdresser Sally 918425443 Yoga holidays in Granada www.kalmayoga.com Looking for models I am looking for girls (under 35) willing to pose for me while I am studying a photography course and developing my fashion photography. This could be either in a studio or outdoors. If you are someone experimental and openminded about fashion, and makeup etc, then please get in contact with a photo attached. (Caroline) carolinescott3@yahoo.co.uk

American Dentist
Dr. Ivan Cabrera Santamaria
SPECIALISES IN GENERAL & COSMETIC DENTISTRY, IMPLANTS AND CONTACT LENS-THIN VENEERS. ORTHODONTIST FOR CHILDREN AND ADULTS. Board Certified by the State of Florida (USA) Licence no: DN0013865 Member of “Colegio de Odontólogos” Spain Member of the American Dental Association
OFFERS FIRST QUALITY DENTAL CARE

>Accommodation
MONKEYHOUSING.COM Si tienes un piso o habitación y estas interesado en encontrar gente, nosotros te ayudamos. Mandanos un email con la información y tu piso/habitación se alquilará en 3 días máximo. email: info@monkeyhousing.com telf: 915497711www.monkeyhousing.com A perfect flat for your holidays in Cadiz! Vejer de la Frontera- typical Andalusian village. 2 bedrooms, fully furnished, perfect for 4 people. 8km from the famous beach (El Palmar). One week 700€, 2 weeks 1500e. Bills and garage included. 500€ deposit required. Tel: (Yolanda) 627 834 694. In front of the beach! A perfect flat for your holidays in Alicante, Playa de San Juan.2 beds, fully furnished. Perfect for 4 people. 2 weeks @ 1000€. All bills and parking included. Tel Ana 666 161 898.

Tel: 914 458 916 Calle Carranza, 20, 10B Metro San Bernardo

is Spain’s leading print service for international clients. Everything from exhibitions to business cards. All in English! www.pancarta.es 622 142 385 931 924 153

Calle Infantas 32, local 3, 28004 Madrid. Ph: 915 214 496 www.beautystationmadrid.com

Hair and beauty salon

Over 25 years of experience offering bilingual medical attention to English-speaking citizens in Madrid.
Phone 91 435 1823 Fax 91 577 9499 Mail recepcion@unidadmedica.com Conde de Aranda 1, 1 Left. 28001 - Madrid Office hours: Mon-Fri, 9:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-13:00 (by appointment only) General practice and medical specialties Answering service after hours & house calls

>Support Groups
Counselling Madrid. At Counselling Madrid we provide confidential counselling services to the international community. We help clients dealing with anxiety, depression, low self-esteem, GAD and OCD. For more info please visit www. counsellingmadrid.org or send your email to joseph@counsellingmadrid.org Tel 648 087 809 Therapy Group Peter 936759276 or Claudia 934177860 Alcoholics Anonymous Sam 932211810 – Jim 932845616

> Useful Telephone
National information 11818 / 11850 / 11828 International information 11825

Numbers

Madrid tourism Centre: Plaza Mayor, 27 (bajo), 91 588 16 36 turismo@ munimadrid.es Metro: Sol. Lost and Found: Paseo del Molino, 7 91 527 95 90 Metro: Legazpi Cancellation of credit cards 90 0 971231 (free call) Emergencies: 112 National police: 091 Municipal police: 092 Complaints by phone: 90 210 2112 / 91 548 8537 (Tourist and foreigner customer service dept) Teletaxi: 91 371 2131 / 91 371 3711 Barajas airport (T1, T2 & T3): 91 305 8343 T4: 90 240 4704 www.aena.es Railway: 902 24 02 02 www.renfe.es 24-HOUR PHARMACIES C/Conde de Peñalver, 27. Tel: 91 402 43 04 Metro: Goya-Lista. C/Ferraz, 13 Tel: 91 547 05 72. Metro: Ventura Rodríguez. C/ Goya, 89 Tel: 91 435 49 58. Metro: Goya. C/ Mayor, 59 Tel: 91 559 23 95. Metro: Sol. C/ Atocha, 46 Tel: 91 369 20 00. Metro: Atocha.

Free Services/Classifieds Paid Services/Classifieds

30 words max: (not applicable to businesses) accommodation, clubs, intercambios. Send to sales@europeanvibe.com Prices: - plain - 15€ with colour 25€ (17th of each month) Payment must be received by the deadline. Call 91 549 77 11 or email: sales@europeanvibe.com to arrange payment.

curry HouSe
auTHenTic indian reSTauranT
Brand new indian restaurant in Madrid! exquisite indian cuisine, in a stunning and central location, right beside Madrid’s famous Plaza Mayor. Terrace now open.
Plaza de la Provincia, 3 Sol / TirSo de Molina / anTón MarTin

Tel: 913 669 099
Sol

curry HouSe
Tirso de Molina Antón Martin