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ONLINE GUIDE TO SPORT AND TRAD

CLIMBING AT WATERVAL BOVEN,
SOUTH AFRICA.

VERSION: OCTOBER 2010

Marc Efune on Godzilla (32) at The God No! Wall. Photo by Dirk Smith

Compiled and edited by Andrew Pedley. Major contributions by Gustav Janse van Rensburg. Assistance
from: Wesley Black, Alex Bester, Danny Pinkas, Dirk Smith and others. Sources: 2003 guidebook to The
Restaurant by G. Janse van Rensburg and Wiki-climb online route updates.

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Contents
Introduction .................................................................................................................................................. 4
When to Visit ............................................................................................................................................ 4
Where to Stay ........................................................................................................................................... 4
How to get there ....................................................................................................................................... 4
Groceries ................................................................................................................................................... 5
Other Info .................................................................................................................................................. 5
Rest Days ................................................................................................................................................... 6
Rules of the crag!! ..................................................................................................................................... 6
Abbreviations: ........................................................................................................................................... 7
Updates and New Routes: ........................................................................................................................ 7
THE WONDERLAND CRAGS ........................................................................................................................... 9
Tranquilitas Crag ....................................................................................................................................... 9
Baboon Buttress...................................................................................................................................... 15
The God No! Wall .................................................................................................................................... 19
The Disciple Wall (left) ............................................................................................................................ 21
The Disciple Wall (right) .......................................................................................................................... 22
Hallucinogen Wall ................................................................................................................................... 22
Breakfast Crag ......................................................................................................................................... 29
Reunion Wall ........................................................................................................................................... 29
The Superbowl ........................................................................................................................................ 30
The Left Wing .......................................................................................................................................... 33
The Theatre ............................................................................................................................................. 34
The Right Wing ........................................................................................................................................ 35
The Stone Philosopher Area ................................................................................................................... 36
TRIPLE TIER CRAGS ...................................................................................................................................... 37
The Gym .................................................................................................................................................. 37
He-Man Area ........................................................................................................................................... 39
The Foundry ............................................................................................................................................ 40
The Acid House ....................................................................................................................................... 43

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The Far Side............................................................................................................................................. 44
THE RESTAURANT CRAGS............................................................................................................................ 45
The School ............................................................................................................................................... 47
Restaurant Crag ...................................................................................................................................... 47
Gaper Buttress ........................................................................................................................................ 49
Gaper Face .............................................................................................................................................. 50
Easter Face .............................................................................................................................................. 51
Monsoon Wall ......................................................................................................................................... 51
The Island ................................................................................................................................................ 52
The Boulevard ......................................................................................................................................... 53
The Gully ................................................................................................................................................. 54
The Beach................................................................................................................................................ 55
Never-never Land.................................................................................................................................... 56
SPORT VALLEY CRAGS ................................................................................................................................. 59
The Pasture ............................................................................................................................................. 59
The Coven ............................................................................................................................................... 60
The Ivory Towers ..................................................................................................................................... 62
The Other Side ........................................................................................................................................ 63
Flying Is Fun............................................................................................................................................. 65
THE WATERFALL CRAGS .............................................................................................................................. 68
The A.C.R.A. Wall .................................................................................................................................... 70
WB Wall................................................................................................................................................... 71
The Last Crag of the Century................................................................................................................... 72
The East End ............................................................................................................................................ 74
Toon Town .............................................................................................................................................. 74
The Wild Side .......................................................................................................................................... 77
ZASM Tunnel entrance - (East) ............................................................................................................... 78
The Junkyard ........................................................................................................................................... 78
ZASM Tunnel entrance - (West) .............................................................................................................. 80
Waterval Onder – Luilekker Crags. ......................................................................................................... 80
Waterval Onder – The Aloes ................................................................................................................... 81

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Introduction

When to Visit
Any time of year! During winter (the dry season – April to October) weeks can go by without a drop of
rain; perfect for climbing but a down–jacket is needed for belaying in the shade. Winter also happens to
be „The Season‟ for Rocklands so the two destinations could be combined if you don‟t mind the 18
hour drive from the Cape. Boven experiences huge amounts of rain during mid-summer (late November
to early February) but the rock dries very quickly and climbing is possible most days, unless you are
unlucky; once or twice a summer it rains for days on end, normally sometime in December and January.
The best time of all is September to early November and late February to end of May when the temps
are sweet and rain is very unlikely. Except for the coldest days in winter, climbing in the sun can be
uncomfortable. The best times to hit the sunny faces are either early morning, late afternoon/evening or
on cloudy days.

Where to Stay
There is a legendary climbers‟ lodge in town which is a good base if you are alone as the camping can be
pretty lonely during weekdays. Roc and Rope (www.rocrope.com) operate the lodge and the owners are
extremely helpful (Gustav wrote the 2003 Guidebook so he knows his way around the crags!).

Take the dirt road into the hills behind town and you will find the Tranquilitas Adventure Farm
(www.tranquilitas.com) superbly positioned above the Wonderland crags. It must be one of the most
pleasant climber campsites on the planet! The crags are not more than a 5 to 10 minutes walk; there is a
swimming pool, hot showers, fridges and great fire sites. Mornings are spent drinking coffee and
relaxing on the lawns until 11-ish (when the crags go into shade) and climbers gather around camp-fires
during the evenings. If you book in advance you can stay in one of the small but well equipped chalets or
safari tents. Roc „n Rope also manage Tranquilitas so direct enquires to them.

How to get there
There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some
people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few
kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways
and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is
reached on the right. This expensive toll gate can be fairly easily avoided by turning off at Machadodorp;
from the town centre take the tar road towards Badplaas for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards
„Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Slaaihoek or Boven. Keep on this,
keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the
Wonderland crags and after another 8 kms or so into Boven. Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on
the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the

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it's high up (nearly 1800 metres). If a trip to the Kruger Park is planned. If it‟s summertime. no one worries about leaving quickdraws on routes or wallets or cameras getting nabbed. it‟s from a borehole and is delicious.  A 70-metre rope will get you down from just about all of the climbs. chances are you‟ll be the only climbers at the crag. The two butchers (slaghuis) in town sell excellent fresh meat and at 2/3the price you pay in Jo‟burg. sliced bread. just before the Middleburg toll gate (about halfway to Boven from Jo‟burg or Pretoria)..only white bread and rolls. There have been one or two muggings in and around town over the years but up at the Wonderland. do not take valuables to these crags! If you do experience an incident. report it to the police as soon as you can. malaria pills might be advisable.  Bring a down jacket. The only crags that there is a risk at are those in the Sport Valley (Pasture. 5 . Flying is Fun) and Waterfall area. you are as safe as you would be almost anywhere. a 60 will not be enough for a few. pasta. Always tie a knot in your rope if it looks like a longish climb. The greengrocer next to the butcher on the north side of the railway tracks sells carrots. Other Info  There is no malaria in Boven so malarial pills would be a waste of money unless you enjoy (scary) trippy dreams. gem squash.  Tap-water in SA is 100% OK but the water in town does taste a little weird sometimes. Fill up at the tap at the Tranquilitas farmhouse or campsite. If you want fancier food you will need to bring some with you. potatoes. whatever time of year it is Boven can be chilly. or you can stop at the huge Highveld Mall which has everything (Woolworths. be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount. cabbage and a few bananas and apples. There is a bakery on the road leading to the township.. Groceries The TARS multisave supermarket sells essentials like milk. cereal. Checkers etc) and is located conveniently right by the highway. but don‟t expect to find whole- wheat. cheese.Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. rusks etc but not much else other than tinned stuff. either from the city.  Crime in South Africa is not nearly as bad as people make out. While in town pick up some beer and some ridiculously cheap steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis). all very cheap. Coven. bring a raincoat.

If you want to burn a few calories on your rest day. towards Mozambique you can enjoy the ultimate resting activity… Game- viewing.sanparks. Do not drop any litter. i. 6 . All of the big tusked and toothed animals reside there in abundance. the mountain-biking is incredible.. There are no dangerous animals! Lions and elephants and other fearsome beasts were wiped out long ago. Rules of the crag!! 1. including cigarette butts and tissue paper! 2. the bikers rave about miles and miles of single track (whatever that is). And you don‟t have to spend big bucks. If you do get close to baboons or monkeys DO NOT FEED OR SHOUT AT THEM. Check out www. If you want to see the scary beasts. Emergency Hospital 0132570015 Boven Police 0132570001 Rescue: Alwyn (Tranquilitas) 0722281643 Gustav (Roc ‘n Rope) 0827533695 Rest Days Two hours east of Boven.za . If you must take a crap at the crag.otherwise it stinks. make sure it‟s in a place that is not sheltered from rain. 3. If you take a pee. and one of the greatest in the world. however small. head to the Kruger Park. don‟t do it close to the cliff. but they are wild and should not approach people (unlike the baboons in the Cape. You will hear baboons barking from the forests below. you can camp or stay in moderately priced chalets.e in the bushes. the only pastime that consumes fewer calories than watching TV! The Kruger National Park is South Africa‟s biggest. go at least 30 metres down-hill from the cliff in the bushes and make sure you dig a hole and cover it with dirt and leaves afterwards. which will swipe handbags and rifle through backpacks!).co. horse-riding and fly-fishing are also reported to be wonderful. ask at Roc and Rope. The kayaking.

6. if it‟s on a trad climb R .Death potential (trad climbs only) Updates and New Routes: Post updates and new route info on the Climb ZA Routes Wiki : http://www. Brush them off afterwards! 5.Number of bolts. walk over ropes and get in the way. Please brush chalk-caked holds after you have finished with a route.za/wiki/index.Number of quickdraws needed A .php/Waterval_Boven Sectors are described approximately from left to right along the escarpment. Small tick dots are fine but tick marks over 2 cm are an eyesore and are unnecessary except for the hardest to see hand or footholds. then the Waterfall Crags.co. 7 . Abbreviations: D .Run-out! (trad climbs only) X . Sport Valley. they sniff at food.climb.Indicates anchors present if it‟s a trad climb B . especially if it‟s a route that is sheltered from rain.4. from Wonderland to Triple Tier then The Restaurant Crags. A well behaved dog at the crag is fine but poorly trained dogs are a nuisance and are not welcome.

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The path leads along the base of the crags for several hundred metres (10 minute‟s walk) until you reach the leftmost lines. 9 . Climbs are described from left to right (east to west). or on a summer day late afternoon it will also be in shade. assisted by a breeze from the valley below. Alternatively. The raise in altitude out of town normally makes this area slightly cooler. At the main intersection in town.25 Metres ASPECT: Tranquilitas is visible from the road. After another 5 kilometres a farmhouse named „Kaalbooi‟ is found on the right. Pass the Rubiks Cube Block(on the left) then the first climb you will see is Caviars Whiskers in a large recess on the right. if you are staying at the Tranquilitas Adventure Farm (chalets. This is the right-hand end of the crag (looking at the crag). when the rest of the Wonderland is in shade. It faces north-north-east and so is sunny. perma-tents or camping) you will park there. starting close to the electricity station. Drive up the rough track and park on the right under the trees. away from town and with wonderful views. It can be really pleasant to climb in the sun here on a cold winter‟s day. turn right up the hill past the hospital and past The Elandskrans Mountain Resort. with Roc „n Rope Adventures on your left. Tranquilitas Crag HEIGHT: 12 . After a couple of kilometers the road turns into a dirt road.even cigarette butts. At the cliff edge you will see some large cairns on the left (piles of rocks) which lead to an easy short scramble down to the cliffs. Move on to the other Wonderland crags towards the afternoon if it gets too hot. Please respect this property by keeping noise levels down and please take any litter with you . APPROACH: Take the path heading northeast through the grass. or on a cloudy day.THE WONDERLAND CRAGS This major area is without a doubt the most popular of all with a huge variety of climbing. opposite the entrance to Tranquilitas Adventure Farm.

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Beware of loose rock. Fist size higher up with chains on top. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Charles Fourie 2007 CROUCHING TIGER 12 *** [10D] Starts on a block just right of the tree growing out of the crack line that makes up this route. A must do. Daryll Margetts & Gareth Frost 2003 SQUEEZE YOUR BALLS 17 ** [Trad] The next right facing corner 10m right of QQ. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007 11 . FA: Charles Fourie. FA: Greg Devine. Claire Keeton.1] 17 ** [Trad] Scramble 10m up the blocks left of the steep open book. A] The striking crack line. Mark Seuring & Kaliani 2003 OMTE PEE EN OM TE POEP 18 ** [Trad] Starts under the big roof just right of SYB. FA: Alard Hüfner & Mark Seuring 2003 SOFT SABIE MARK 22 *** [Trad] Climbs an arete up to the crack in the face above. Climb the obvious crack. FA: Marianne Pretorius. Marianne Pretorius & Karl Kritzinger 2003 THE HUFFING WARTHOG 23 *** [Trad. especially if you are old enough to walk. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Alard Hüfner 2003 ALS BELLS 19 **** [Trad] The obvious undercut open book. MILOU 9 *** [8D] Starts just left of the tree at the base of Crouching Tiger. It looks harder than it climbs.ALS BELLS AREA At the far East (left) end of the crag a selection of trad climbs can be found on the blocky butressess. Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007 MEL 11 *** [8D] Shares the first bolt with CROUCHING TIGER. Ideal for absolute beginners. Marianne Pretorius & Karl Kritzinger 2003 QUACK-QUACK 17 ** [Trad] Climb the chimney and crack system in a corner right of SSM. This and other climbs here are in shade from noon in the summer. FA: Alard Hüfner & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2003 RESPECT FOR THE BIG GUY 18 *** [Trad] Climbs the front nose of the buttress 5m right of ALS BELLS. FA: Mark Seuring.6 E30 22 11. then climb up the slab. Thanks to Gareth Frost & Daryll Margets who aided up here first and for placing the anchors. Milou can be used as a scramble out from the crag. WHEN YOU NEED IT [ GPS: S25 40 30. FA: Mark Seuring. Starts 2m right of RFTBG. Takes good gear. These can also be used for abbing after doing some of the other routes. This route does not go all the way to the top of the crag. Climbs diagonally up left past the loose looking “big guy” and onto the face. FA: Alard Hüfner 2003 THE CRECHE The very low angle slabs host a number of the easiest bolted lines at Boven. Follows the crack through small roof 2m right of the big corner with an offwidth above.

FA: Sarel Smit 2003 12 . FA: Voytek Modrzewski 2003 GOOD AND EVIL [ GPS: S25 40 30.1 E30 22 08. FA: Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007 JACKY CHAN 14 *** [9D] Start inside a stradle width chimney 20m right of the obviuos Huffing Warthog crack. WHILE I KISS THE SKY 19 **** [10D] Climb onto a ledge towards a crack leading steeply through the double and up. FA: Alard Hüfner 2003 (Solo) CEASAR 16 *** [Trad] Climb the fun chimney left of WAW and discover the cave system. Stay left of the 5th bolt that was placed out there due to hollow sounding rock on the arete. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007 FEEL GOOD 14 *** [7D] Approach from the left to gain a platform beneath a tree.5] 23 *** [9D] The obvious arête on the big blocky buttress to the left of the highest section of the crag when looking from the farmhouse parking.O. Avoid using opposite side of chimney. Reach a large picnic ledge after 2 bolts and continue onto the main face. then step accross onto the main face and up. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg. FA: Charles Fourie & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007 CONSISTENCY IS FASHION 17 **** [10D] Start on the broken looking corner with an hourglass feature halfway up the arete. Voytek Modrzewski 2003 WASP WARRIORS 27 *** [8D] Climb diagonally right up the middle of the obvious west facing face.ME TARZAN. FA: Rory Lowther (BB) Chris Rudolph & Rory Lowther 2003 YELLOW POLKA DOT 25 **** [11D] The appealing yellow-dotted wall! Fun climbing becomes technical higher up. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud 2003 COOL RUNNINGS 24 *** [10B] The arete left of the prominent crack in the corner. YOU JANE 16 **** [9D] Boulder up the arrete of the left facing corner. FA: Brad Davies.M. FA: Alard Hüfner 2003 WHO‟S LINE IS IT ANYWAY 23 **** [9D] Starts 8 m left of the Good and Evil arête and diagonally up right. Kieren Davies & Hilton Davies 2008 EXCUSE ME. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Derk Battjes 2007 GOOD AND EVIL AREA The climbs either side of the obvious smooth west facing wall (Wasp Warriors). Then move right onto the face after the small roof. A great climb. Halfway up the route changes from crack climbing to face climbing. Step across onto blocky rock. Lead-out but safe. FA: Alard Hüfner 2003 (Solo) WOODCHOPPERS AND WATERBEARERS 22 *** [10D] Climb up the right arete. I. JULIUS 15 * [Trad] Starts up a creeper fig tree and into the chimney. Climb the prominent layback crack.

Rebolted and upgraded from 23. Step left onto the ledge with a block. Then onto the face with fun climbing to chains. A sustained and impeccable sequence of technical mastery takes you to the chains. The first climb is approx 50 m right of the Wasp Warriors face. BB: Mark Millar & Mike Garrard 2003 FEVER 29 ** [10D] Start on a big block and climb a cruxy 4 bolts over a bulge. Team 24 *** [10D] A lovely intro to this section of the wall. Pull a small overlap then head into the corner and race for the chains up steeper ground. very difficult to clip some of the bolts if short.AAPSTREKE 15 ** [Trad] The obvious chimney right of CR.A. June 2009 S. FA: Gary Lowther 2003 (BB) Rory Lowther & Chris Rudolph THE BEEMAN AND THE BUSHMAN 25 *** [11D] Start up obvious diagonal crack tending right through overlaps. Sarel Smit. Amazingly comfortable holds and great friction. climb the face following the corner for 15m. well established two-stemmed tree and about 180m right of the GOOD AND EVIL arete. FA: Andrew Pedley. The line weaves its way through a series of balancy moves. Continue up the bolt line to the anchors. FA: Rory Lowther 2003 13 . Consensus is easy 28 (7c). Mantle onto the initial protruding block and head up the water groove. LOST IN TRANSLATION 23 ** [14D] Starts at the righthand end of the obvious long roof. FA: Mark Seuring & Ulrike Kiefer 2003 MALARIA AREA The middle section of the Crag. FA: Mark Millar & Marc Efune. using the finger crack to step up and left onto the ledge. FA: Jan 2009 BB: Neil Margetts. Low in the grade. FA: Dewald Kloppers 2009 PEACEFUL SLEEP 21 *** [11D] This route starts at the base of a huge. Take plenty small gear. Wikus Spies & Lohan Spies 2003 WALKING ON SUNSHINE 20 *** [Trad] Starting at a multi-stemmed tree. then into small open book. Head right. Keep slightly left on small crimps as you break through the initial overhang and hang on for the great ride to the chains! FA: Mark Millar 2004 ATLANTIS 26 *** [11D] A greatline. Poorly bolted. Climb the layback under a small roof. following the thin crack to chains. climb the curved crack to an aloe. Rail out left on face up to an ab tree.W. FA: Andrew Pedley 2004 INCA TRAIL 27 *** [11D] A slabby looking line on the golden wall between SWAT Team & Eldorado. FA: Andrew Pedley 2004 ELDORADO 28 **** [11D] One of the best lines at the crag.T. NITRO'S TICK FEVER 25 ** [10 ?D] Climbs the slabby wall approx 50 m right of the „Wasp Warrior‟ opened up by a visiting Czech climber. FA: Alard Hüfner 2003 BEAT THEM DEAD 23 *** [13D] Start under a big roof. FA: Abert Smit.

Climb the corner till forced to the arete out right. Consensus seems to have brought this climb down to 22 from 24! FA: Ed February & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007 ROC RALLY 21 *** [9D] A short route 20m left of FUG. LITTLE BONSAI 16 **** [12D] The first route left of the recess where CHIMNEYING TAMMY hides away. FUG 22 *** New route well indicated on the rock. the first area upon arriving at the right (west) end of the crag. when standing on it. Climb the crack. FA: Rory Lowther 2003 DISEASED MAD COW 22 *** [11D] Start in a corner 12m right of GRUNT. try keep right towards chains. FA: G Frost and D Margetts. FA: Rory Lowther 2003 14 . FA: Alard Hüfner 2006 EVELYN 18 *** [12D] Starts halfway up a pillar on a stance. then onto ledge to traverse out right and through the roof onto the arête and up. A 60m rope is just long enough! FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Ed Febraury 2007 ENDLESS BLOWJOB 18 *** [12D] The well marked climb left of LITTLE BONSAI. G Frost and D Margetts. left of ROC RALLY. FA: Gary Lowther 2003 GOATS MILK GIVES ME GASTRO 22 *** [9D] Scramble up to the left of Diseased Mad Cow to find the line on the inside arête. just outside the cave. starting on a slab. Climb face till stance under the roof. CHIMNEYING TAMMY 15 *** [7D] Typical chimney climb to the left of GMGMG. BB: Rory & Gary Lowther FA: Rory Lowther 2003 MALARIA 22 *** [12D] 5m right of the previous climb. climb over onto the main wall. behind a free standing pillar. FA: Alard Hüfner 2006 BALANCE OF POWER 22 *** [8D] Takes the groove just left of ROC RALLY. FA: G Frost and D Margetts. Traverse left into roof crack and up. Climb the face up to a small stance under a left- leaning corner. FA: Mark Seuring & Ulrike Kiefer 2003 ALEX's MOUSSE AU CHOCOLAT 17 **** [13D] Starts in the back of a little gulley. FA: Alard Hüfner 2006 GRUNT AREA The broken slabby sector.SIX DEAD MOSQUITOS ON MY LEG 22 *** [11D] Climb into a small roof. BEAUTY IS IN THE EYE OF THE BELAYER 22 *** [10D] One bolt on the face takes you through the trees with funky moves onto the face above and to the top of the crag. Climb out right at the small roof and onto the face for another 20m. Cruxy start then onto face above. traverse out right and then up to face climbing. BB: Rory Lowther & Chris Rudolph FA: Rory Lowther 2003 THERE IS TREASURE EVERYWHERE 20 **** [Trad] Start 18m left of Malaria at an undercut base between some trees under the obvious roof crack in the sky. Technical and fun climbing to a ledge above which you can top out on or ab in from chains. At the third bolt. Classic at the grade.

After 100 metres the path forks. look left. 15 . Climb a few meters to a ledge. keep left and after 50 m the path leads down to a waterfall (listen and you will hear it). slightly left on small holds. The route pulls straight up the middle of the face on the leaning free-standing boulder. Dynamic start onto jugs can also be done statically if tall (to cheat: use the tree or traverse from the right). Follow bolts diagonally right. cross over the road through the Tranquiltas Adventure Farm entrance. Move right at the slopey side pull to a jug out right by means of one really hard iron cross.0 E30 21 57. FA: Andrew Pedley April 2009 RUBIK'S CUBE 26 *** [6D] Start on the two obvious crimps do two dynos and a couple of hard moves. At the base of the gully. after 15 metres take the path on the left towards the cliffline. Awesome photo opportunity of climb. Scramble down the obvious descent gully (past some short climbs). After about 200 metres the obvious layback crack of Grizzly Behr can be seen. HEIGHT: 15 .25 Metres ASPECT : East-south-east. Harder if you use less holds on the arête like FA. some of which stay dry even during very heavy rain. take the track heading northwestwards from the corner of the field. After approx 200 metres you will reach a fork. opened at 28. From the obvious slopey right hand side pull keep going straight up. FA: Rory Lowther 2003 CAVIARS WHISKERS 17 *** [9D] Start 5m right of the previous climb up the obvious layback crack in the big recess just before the scramble out of the crag.8] 20 *** [8D] Start 8m right of GRUNT. FA: Dewald Kloppers 2008 Baboon Buttress A variety of easy and intermediate grade climbs of mixed quality. A power test-piece. head north for 10 metres and you will see the crack of Grizzly bear. STITCH IT 29 *** [6D] Halfway down the standard scramble. Take the smaller right hand fork down to the cliff top. which initially follows a couple of electricity poles. then some face moves to chains. Cross the wooden foot bridge and follow the path through the forest for a couple hundred metres. FA: Fabrice Blaise 2000 RUBIKS CUBE BOULDER The free-standing leaning boulder on the left as descending to Tranquilitas Crags is home to some hard boulder climbs. FA: Mark Seuring & Steve Broccardo 2002 BIOGALACTIC GOBBLEBLASTER [ GPS: S25 40 29. Leave the chalk bag behind. FA: Dewald Kloppers 2008 PIT FIGHTER 31 **** Direct version of STITCH IT.GRUNT 24 ** [Trad] The obvious roof crack with easier headwall. From the Tranquilitas Adventure Farm chalets. go and believe move. nice route. (shade after about 11 am) APPROACH: From the parking at the farmhouse. from ledges out right of chains. no feet.

FA: Mark Seuring 2002 The next few climbs start on the smooth brown face to the right of the big cave beside the gully and are described left to right. CLOSED PROJECT: [7D] [Brian Weaver] Starts off of the lowest boulders in the gully.S 14 [6D] Climbs the chimney just right of AFTER THOUGHT's corner. BABOONS IN BOARDSHORTS 14 ** [7D] As descending the gully. this easy climb is on the left and angles up leftwards on grey slab. FA: Darryl Margetts August 2009 A. Climb the next slanting feature.Climbs are described from left to right: PAPSAK 22 * [6D] Anyone have the details for this route? Goes up the arete left of AFTER THOUGHT's corner FA: Unknown LOOPDOP 17 ** [7D] Up middle of face left of AFTER THOUGHT's corner. FA: Sarel Petrus 2007 GRIZZLY BEHRS 16 *** [9D] Climb the cool looking crack for a good distance to main ledge. ONE LOVE 22 ** [5D] Climb the face just right of the cave. A grovel. FA: C Vandereydt & M Demilano 2006 ADAM 22 *** [6D] Halfway down the descent gully walk left onto a big ledge. FA: Mike Behr & Christopher Dabrowski 2006 RENEWABLE ENERGY 18 *** [8D] From the ledge below the open book. FA: Unknown AFTER THOUGHT 16 * [5D] Climbs the corner crack situated to the left of the descent gully (when facing the bottom of the gully). FA: Kieren Davies. FA: Greg De Gidts & Chris Vandereydt 2007 IRRITABLE MALE SYNDROME 22 *** [6D]. CLOSED PROJECT: [7D][Ken Thrash] The route ascends the right arete of the descent gully The following few climbs start in the descent gully and from the half-height ledge accessed from the gully. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007 16 . FA:Chris Vandereydt 2006 ALMOST USCHI 22 ** [6D] Surprisingly pleasant face left of the GRIZZLY BEHRS crack. head left onto the steep face. Climbs the slanting feature. FA: Unknown CLOSED PROJECT: [Ken Thrash] The route ascends the face around the corner of the right arete of the descent gully. Arcs right up the steep face. Brad Davies & Hilton Davies 2008 TRENCH TOWN 15 ** [5D] Slab on arête in descent gully.

FA: Alard Hüfner 2000 KANNIE-BALLISTIC 27 *** [12D] Start at the base of the chimney that becomes UP ALARD'S CRACK. FA: Christopher Dabrowski 2007 NO MORE DYNAMO 20 ** [8D] Starts on the large block in the middle of the path. 3. finish below main roof. 4 and 7 if you want to take out a bit of rope drag. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007 SLAVE SPECIES 25 ** [6D] Just right of UP IN SMOKE. FA: Marianne Pretorius 2004 WHAIT WATCHER PITCH ONE 17 ** [5D] From the ledge below the open book. continue on to good anchors. FA: Mark Seuring 2006 BB: Marianne Pretorius 2004 UP ALARD'S CRACK 17 *** [10D] If you enjoy chimney's. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007 WHAIT WATCHER PITCH TWO 21 *** [8D] Head straight through rhe overlap into interesting bouldery stuff. Climb the face followed by a roof.LUCKY LEILA 22 *** [12] Start up the groove from the blocky ledge behind the tree. Finish below the roof. Head up the crack toward the surprisingly solid excrement. The route is in the obvious corner chimney. clip the next 2 bolts and then finish at higher anchors for (harder) direct finish. this one is for you. The bolts leading straight up on the headwall is an open project. FA: Mike Cartwright. climb past the chains of TBTR and goes all the way to the top. Take care clipping the high first bolt. Straight up the short steep wall and onto the ledge. FA: Alard Hufner 2007 SOUR GRAPES 24 *** [13D] Route climbs the face between SWEET PLUMB and THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES. rails out right a bit after the final bolt. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud and Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2006 LEGENDS 25 ** [6D] Short face climb below the big roof. FA: Mike Mason 2002 PRETENDERS 24 *** [8D] Climb the bulging steep wall. Follow bolts left and up then step over and continue diagonally right after the steep section. Share chains with PRETENDERS. FA: Mike Cartwright 2006 JAMANI 19 ** [6D] Fine dihedral with a good crack. FA: Ken Thrash October 2008 17 . traverse one move right and up the groove. Go left to clip bolt 6. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007 QINA 19 *** Start on top of the large block. Christopher Dabrowski and Gustav Janse van Rensurg 2006 SWEET PLUMB 25 **** [14D] Excellent long face climb to the right of the main roof. Climb slightly left to start off. Take long draws for bolts no. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2008 UP IN SMOKE 23 [10D.R] Badly bolted weak effort about 3m left of Goose On The Loose. FA: Michael Cartwright 2007 GOOSE ON THE LOOSE 26 *[9D] Climb first 5 bolts with Pretenders.

before tackling a technical and airy arete. Bolted by Andrew Pedley and Dylan Voigt. This is your chance to be The Bovenator. BUTTERFLY PITCH 1 26 **** Great climb to chains below the massive roof. longer route but 60m gets you back. unclip the 8th bolt. FA: Andrew Pedley August 2010. FA: Mike Cartwright 2006 CONDOR 28 *** (11D) A few metres right of Heroes is a right trending line. Climb this with effort then moves leftwards to a slab and rest. *** Starts at the base of a steep rightward trending corner amongst the trees. easy for those with a wingspan. FA: Dylan Voigt September 2010. FA: Darryl Margetts July 2008. FA: Ken Thrash and Darryl Margetts April 2009 WILD FIRE 25 *** [10D] Starts about 2 metres left of Heroes.JHB/MAG Section CLOSED PROJECT [Mark Millar] Anchors placed June 2008. Bolts sponsored by MCSA . Clintons hard project finishing up the blank wall left of Butterfly Pitch 2. A tricky compression start lead to lots and lots of fun. Bolts sponsored by MCSA .THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES 12 *** [7D] Starts 2m right of Sweet Plumb.P. Pull through the roof at the bottom and follow the shallow open book to the chains. FA: Ken Thrash August 2008. Clinton Martinengo October 2010. FA: Ken Thrash July 2008.JHB/MAG Section THE BOVENATOR 28 **** (11D) Starts by the black streak. FA: Darryl Margetts August 2008 TWICE IN A BLUE MOON: 18 *** [7D] Route climbs the off-width crack between THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES and WILD FIRE. easier than it looks! FA: Alard Hufner. then up the left side of the open book to the roof and continue straight up the face to the top. Stunning moves up the corner and through roof.P). Thrash STICKY TOFFEE PUDDING (S.T. just right of the obvious off- width crack and climb the arête. Starts a few metres left of the drip. CLOSED PROJECT. 23 **** [17D] A long and varied climb with great exposed arête finale. DREAMERS 23 *** [11D] Main recess to major ledge out right. FA: Glenn Harrison 2007 SWEET CHILD OF MINE 27 (14D). HEY MAMA 16 * [6D] Starts about 2m to the right of Not-da-Mamma. K. FA: Christopher Dabrowski 2007 NOT-DA-MAMA 23 ** [14D] Starts about 5m right of Dreamers and ends on the same ledge. 18 . but has its own chains. PROJECT. K.T. To avoid rope drag it is best to use a longer draw on the 7th bolt and once clipped into the 9th bolt. Plan is to head for the obvious arete. but then go further left up the face to the ledge. climb up this (burly) and up the nice wall above to below the upper roof. Hard for the short. A great journey! FA. Thrash CLOSED PROJECT. HEROES 26 ** [9D] Start in a short overhanging corner. Starts as for S.

Some funky moves through the white roof. 19 . Up to a shake at a half height then a wicked 10 move boulder problem through the wonderful smooth rock. Can work crux headwall move on top rope with belayer at top. BIG BUTTERFLY 28 **** [lots] Ground to top in one giant and stunning pitch.BUTTERFLY PITCH TWO. burly roof. Low in the grade. First crag to get shade.September 2008. but an absolute pump-fest. MONSTER 29 ***** [16D] The “baddest” and steepest 29 at Boven!! The only line with ring bolts. 70 m rope needed.30 to 10. Down from 32 following discovery of a no-hands-rest just where it matters.March 2008 SPACE CADET 31 *** [18D] 8a+ for the effort but really 8a. Climbs are described from left to right: RODAN Closed Project of A Pedley. Starts where the crag becomes much bigger and steeper! For some superb views of the climbs. walk along the small path that leads along the cliff-top – take your camera! HEIGHT: 25 . 70 m rope needed. or access by climbing Pitch 1. FA: Andrew Pedley . get a rest in the 'man trap' then deadpoint your way up diagonally to the chains. 70 m rope needed. One of the greatest climbs. in which case the first wall you will reach is the Disciple Wall (right-hand end of the crags). Or if you are at Hallucinogen Wall. take the zig-zagging path that leads down and leftwards starting in the vicinity of Bongoleo. Use slings on the bolts below the roof to reduce drag. Climb up behind the tree to a ledge then the climbing starts. Not many small holds on this one. Great photos from the top of the crag. FA: Andrew Pedley 2007 BB: Mark Seuring The God No! Wall The biggest wall at Boven and also home to most of the hardest climbs. to good holds. 8c or thereabouts. A bit of everything from technical arête. FA. walk along the base of the cliff until you reach the obvious leaning Monster section. Probably SA‟s best sport crag. FA: Andrew Pedley 2006 BB: Alard Hufner THE BEAST 31 ***** [16D] Start up Monster and move right at the 4th bolt. at the top of the gully. from 9.30 am onwards. 27 **** The crack in the sky! Can abseil in to the ledge. GODZILLA 32 ***** [14D] Boven‟s 'King Line'. A massive climb for the space cadets amongst us.40 metres ASPECT: Faces properly South East. Moves right after chains. It's a super-classic! Slightly harder (and even better) since the chockstone fell out but still 29. Andrew Pedley . gnarly crack. Use two ropes and drop one at half height ledge (up and right of half height chains). APROACH: Access as for Baboon Butress which rambles on for about 100 metres.

through the massive overhangs. Bolted by Andrew Pedley. FA: Mike Cartwright Jan 2007 TOKOLOSIE 30 **** [14D] Sustained and with lots and lots of footwork. Open project. Some very satisfying and crimptastic moves. FA: Andrew Pedley . FA: Daniel Gebel . Could avoid the Freakshow crux by branching left off Juggernaut. There are half height lower off chains.. FREAK-ON 24 ***** [12D] Mega classic pumpfest. 70 m rope needed. CHANGING GEARS 24.March 2009. Only 2-3 metres unsolved to date.. A 50m rope will work as 20 . Climbs the wall just to right of the black water streak (always damp) via thin moves then busts through the roof with effort. leaning face. Climb left to get into then up the corner of Dungeons. Low in the grade. September 2009.a fantastic ride. THE BACKCOUNTRY BUTCHER 31 **** (13D) Starts off the same ledge as Tokolosie. Chains are below the huge roofs. Solid at the grade. Needs a 2nd ascent. Something to throw yourself at when the rain won‟t let you climb anywhere else. Use long slings for the 3 bolts below the roof.23.Use long slings on the 3 bolts before/in the roof section .25 *** [12D] This is a 3 pitch route that takes the first section of JACK OF ALL TRADES with one new bolt out left onto a ledge. or from the ground. take a rest at the ledge then up the leaning headwall via some real sequency climbing. HEAVENS ABOVE PROJECT. Starts off the big ledge up and right of the start of Dungeons. Top third gets dusty after heavy rain.Jan 2008 CHOCOLATE ÉCLAIR 27 ** [4D] A two bolt boulder problem. Crimps to the ledge then move right then take the rightwards slanting weakness and much pump. an extension of Freak Show. Dance up the headwall with a pump. break out right through the small roof. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud Jan 2007 BB: Mike Cartwright WHO NEEDS LUCKY COWS (aka death by chocolate) 31 *** (12D) Climb Choc Eclair then continue over the roof with a grunt. Much better than it looks. a great climb. Shares chains of Butcher. Start up the ramp and into the long overhanging corner behind the trees 20 metres right of Freak-on. Dry in all weather. FREAK-SHOW 28 ** [12D] Start 2 m left of Freak-on. Dont get butchered. FA: Andrew Pedley Jan 2009. then up the headwall.that way drag is negligible. DUNGEONS AND DRAGONS 26 **** [13D] This route is found in the corner just right of Chocolate Eclair. it is more fun to break it up. Up the orange vertical wall past hard moves including a very defensive little hold. after 3-4 bolts. The route will in all likelihood remain dry during heavy rain.. FA Marc Flex Efune June 2009 (BB Mark Millar).exposed handrailing. FA: Andrew Pedley April 2009. FA: Andrew Pedley . FA Andrew Pedley July 2008 JUGGERNAUT 30 *** [12D] Shares the first 3 bolts of Freak-On and then continues straight up through 3 roofs with a hard crux after clipping the last bolt. Although it is tempting (yet possible) to do in one long pitch.

A tricky looking first few metres on is on dolerite (an igneous rock). Climbs are described from left to right: BITTERGAL 22 *** [14D] Starts to the left of the tree. Need a 70 m rope FA: Marc Efune Dec 2006 ROCK-CHUKA-CHICK 23 **** [17D] Starts about 10m right of JABBERWOCKY. one of best sport pitches in SA.0 E30 21 54. A rest before the crux detracts from the climb. A popular route. After the 3rd bolt. FA: Alard Hüfner 1999 BURNING SPEAR 28 ** [17D] Start up the first 5 bolts of Big Bad Wolf then head right up some good sequential climbing that gets harder as you get higher. FA: Greg Borman Feb 2009 THE DAY OF THE TRIFFIDS (also known as Brolloks) 19 ***** [14D] Since being accidentally retrobolted (!). This route is fairly long at 35 odd meters.all the stances have rap anchors. changing to quartzite after the 3rd bolt. A 60 m rope is needed. Need a 70 m rope. Hard for the short. shares first bolt with Hell Yeah. FA: Richard Lord 1993 VORPAL SWORD 31 ***** [16D] The one that killed the Jabberwocky. Some of the best easy climbs in Boven. Very technical. Crimpy and gymnastic climbing to the right of Jabberwocky. Shade from 11 onwards. Solid at the grade.3] 32 **** [14D] The route up the middle of the face. FA: Jens Ricther & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2006 BB: Gustav 2009 JACK OF ALL TRADES 30 ***** [15D] The crackline on the left of big smooth 35-metre wall. FA (on trad): Stewart Middlemiss & I Schwartz 1998 21 . FA: Greg Watkins 1998 The Disciple Wall (left) Keep walking along the base of the crag from the God No Wall and around a corner you will arrive at a very appealing east facing vertical wall which is home to some lovely sustained easy climbs. 70 m rope needed. . A low crux then fun climbing. was SA‟s hardest climb for many years and still one of the hardest lines in Boven. A 70m rope is required to get all the way down. Make sure to rest at the ledges between the three crux sections. up and up some more. 70 m rope needed. with plenty of rests. move left then up. Steel fingers and ace footwork are required. sustained. this route has become very popular and must be a contender for one of the best easy climbs in Boven. FA: Andrew Pedley May 2008 HELL YEAH! 27 *** [17D] A very long climb which takes the long corner immediately right of Vorpal Sword (shares the first bolt). The original God No classic. Benchmark 8a. FA: Marianne Pretorius 1999 BIG BAD WOLF 25 *** [16D] 10m right of ROCK-CHUKA-CHICK is another looong route. FA: Marc Efune Oct 2009 BB: Reiny zee German 2009 ALICE IN GRANNYLAND 24 *** [16D] Some pleasant face climbing leads to a high crux that if solved correctly is rather easy for the grade. FA: Tessa Little 1998 (BB) Mike Hislop JABBERWOCKY [ GPS: S25 40 17. Pitches 2 & 3 were opened on trad many moons ago. An unbelievable climb.

consider if it is really necessary… HEIGHT: 5 . Can also use the Brollocks start. A good place to hone skills required for bigger and better things. Clip first 3-4 bolts of Sarel Seemonster then move right and up. first diagonally right to a thread. or from the trail leading down from Hallucinogen Crag (starts somewhere close to Bongoleo. FA: Tessa Little (BB) Matthew Murison 1998 THE LOAN ARRANGER 25 *** [Trad] Just right of LRRH. Hack your way to the top. FA: (on trad). by Ian Manson & G Shepston 1992 SAREL SEEMONSTER 18 *** [12D] Just right of Groenie die Drakie. FA: Matthew Murison 1998 (BB) Rob Cormak & Chris Vandereyalt 1998 LITTLE RED RIDING HOOD 25 **** [9D] Awesome 25! Thin & cruxy near the top. APPROACH: Either from the God No Wall. The climbing is super social and varied at all grades. Cruxy. and up bolts up to your left. Again. Some pretty cool climbs here. climb 4 bolts then move left and up. including an amazing 25… Some good trad too. Climbs are starting to become a little squeezed-in which can detract from existing climbs. The Disciple Wall (right) This „little red wall‟ can be seen through the trees about 50 m up and right of the left Disciple Wall. Mike Hislop 1992 HIM SPEAK WITH FORKED TONGUE 23 * [Trad] Trad line just right of THE LOAN ARRANGER. so before you bolt another line.20 Metres ASPECT: East-north-east. great. Climb the crack in the middle of the wall.18 Metres 22 . finishing below the big bushy tree. FA: Ken Thrash June 2009 LUCY 17 *** [12D] The right most line. FA: A Margetts and E Margettsand Daryl Margetts 2010. Don't forget your spade! FA: Stewart Middlemiss. HEIGHT: 15 .GOODWILL VAN DIE ZOELOES 21 (also known as Groenie Die Drakie) 21 **** [13D] Just right of Brolloks. then left and up. FA: Alard Hüfner 1999 Hallucinogen Wall Without a doubt the most popular wall around for easy and moderate climbs of relatively short stature. Climb up to the ledge then move left after 4th bolt. FA: Stewart Middlemiss & I Schwartz 1998 HALONGMAISHLONG 21” **** [13D] This (rude) line climbs through the overlap from a corner. bit cruxier than Brollocks. 15m right of LRRH. Climbs are described from left to right: GRANNIE'S COTTAGE 25 *** [8D] This route was the old 'Digiridoo Project'.

Frost. McKenzie. Before the main road and the entrance to Tranquilitas an obvious path leads off on the right. take the path leading down into the little bushy valley. E Margetts & T Margetts 2002 SMOKING DREAD LOCKS 21 * [5D] The crack line. to gain a thin crack at the top with some technical climbing. It climbs a prominent crack. cross over the road through the Tranquiltas Adventure Farm entrance. leave the main path and head down along the base of the small cliffs. a small path on the right descends to the cliff top. From the Tranquilitas camping. APPROACH: From the parking at the farmhouse. Keep on walking along the base until you arrive at the climbs. FA: Albert Smit 2000 HAMSTER HOTEL 15 ** [6D] Start at the coral tree 10m right of HP. G. To get to the right-hand end of the crag.Follow this excellent path for 350 metres until you reach a small white (Mountain Club of South Africa) Sign. Here. which doubles back towards the south. Grant 2001 THE FLYING SCOTSMAN 26 [5D] The desperate looking blank face.ASPECT: East and south east. FA: D Margetts. A Margetts. Margetts & A. but variable as there are some corners and shadier faces. G. N. towards the cliff line. After 40 metres turn sharply right onto a small path. Take this pathand follow it this as described above. D. Sunny until 11 ish. Climb the face up to a small roof and up to the chains above. H. FA: Darryl Margetts & Gareth Frost 2003 23 . FA: Darryl Margetts & Gareth Frost 2003 TWO CAM SAM 23 *** Start in the corner up to a loose looking block. Climbs are described from left to right: I R BABOON 12 * [5D] The leftlost route on the short unimpressive looking wall as you walk into the crag from the South. FA: D Margetts & G Frost 2003 COMFORT ZONE 20 * [6D] Situated in the middle of the short face on the very left. Pringle. after which you pass some ledges and pockets to the left. FA: Dewald Kloppers 2007 RAT PALLACE 20 *** [9D] A little way along the path approaching from the left of Hallucinogen Wall. The path curves leftward and at a cairn. Frost. after a few metres take the path on the left towards the cliffline…. FA: James Roberts 2002 HEY PAPPA 24 * [5D] The route is the lonely line on a small open face about 60m left of Dexters Lab. Pringle 2001 LAST HURRAH 16 *** [7D] At a sawn off tree stump (probably was not necessary!) against the rock face 5m right of RP. past a wooded barrier and to a small gully and the (climbers) right end of the Hallucinogen crag. FA: H. FA: Darryl Margetts. pass the white MCSA sign and keep walking along the top of the cliff for another 250 metres.

Slightly run out! Do not fumble on the second or third clips. pull through the overhang onto a small ledge. Move up and left off the ledge via some hard to find jugs. A great line. FA: Alard Hüfner 2000 DUTCH POPCORN 26 **** [12D] Starts behind a bush under an overhanging corner. Hardest climb in Boven at time of writing. FA: Clinton Martinengo 2006 BB: Philippe Gaboriaud DEXTER'S LAB 23 **** [12D] Climbs the obvious wide layback crack for about 10 m to a ledge. FA: Alard Hüfner 1999 DROP KICKED 26 *** [9D] 2 Metres right of "Wicked". (The missing bolt has eventually been placed to avoid the fall into trees) FA: Philippe Gaboriaud. FA: Mark Seuring & Ulrike Kiefer 2003 MANSLAVES 15 *** [9D] Climb up a face left of a large right facing corner out to a huge cammed block. SMOKEY THE BEAR 16 ** [9D] Up 3 small ledges and the groove just left of BONGOLEO. A fine route with an arete high up. almost 8b+. FA: Mike Behr & Clive Curson 2000 CEASARIAN 23 *** [11D] Start on BONGOLEO. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2001 WICKED 26 **** [10D] Climbs a recessed face about 15m right of DEXTER'S LAB. Climb corner into the roof. FA: Darryl Margetts & Gareth Frost 2003 BONGOLEO 21 *** [8D] about 5m left of WICKED. Don't be bamboozled by the midway crux. Vince 2003 LAB RAT 32/33 **** [10D]. Starts off the ground at the base of the crack. FA: Mark Seuring 2002 LA CROISIERE S'AMUSE 24 *** [10D] Start in the corner left of DEXTER'S LAB. D Margetts. FA: Voytek Modrzewski 1998 CLOUD CITY 22 *** [10D] Climb the face left of Smokey the bear up to the overhang. It is a powerful route and the crux is very hard if you have a small arm span. Traverse across the face (Labrat) to above the off-width and a small stance. A Margetts 2010. FA: Anna "Queen of Joburg" Fatti BAMBOOZLED 27 *** [9D] 10m left of DL. through an overhang. Keep your thinking cap on for this route.ROUNDABOUT NOW 19 ** [Trad] 5m left of Bamboozled. Climb diagonally left to chains. FA: Alard Hüfner & Mark “Pirate” van Wyk 2000 24 . Swing left onto block and up. Climbs up the centre of the blank gently leaning wall via some desperately awkward movements. continue up the face to the chains. Low in the grade. A desperate dyno will see you reach the chains. FA: Alard Hufner 1999 I JUST CAN'T BOLT IT 20 *** [Trad] The obvious crack line just right of DP. Swing left under block and up. Up the cracks to under the roofs and out left. break up right before the chains to clip 2 hangers and then onto the top groove of WICKED.FA: E Margetts. Some of us were sandbagged when 24 was written at the base after the first ascent! FA: Alard Hüfner 2000 FIVE LIVES LEFT 19 **** [8D] 2m right of DK. Clip first bolt with a single screwgate biner from the block.

left of the M & M face. for about 15m. break out left past the blocks and through the roof crack and up the face. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts 1999 25 . Reach for the base of the shallow recess to the top. FA: Dylan Morgan 1999 DOOM 19 **** [10D] Starts in the middle of the face about 2m left of CC. Use the pillar and the face to get to the top of the pillar. FA: Mark Seuring 1999 ONCE IN A BLUE MOON 19 *** [11D] Climb the corner into chimney onto the face. Hard start then a tricky traverse to the left. Either love it or hate it! FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts 1999 BLOOD ON THE ROCKS 23 *** [10D] Goes up and to the left of the arete. FA: Brian Weaver December 2009 ANTS IN YOUR PANTS 28 *** [8D] Tackles the short prow with some poor holds! Bouldery and fun. Some cranking crack climbing. Use the chains on DOOM. railing out right on top. FA: Alard Hüfner 2002 HEMP ON THE HILL 17 *** [11D] Start one meter left of the open book just right of Shroom Hunter. A] A toprope route between DOOM and CC. Start on ledge 5m off the ground behind large tree. FA: Greg Devine. FA: Alard Hüfner 2002 SHROOM HUNTER 21 ** [10D] Left of the open book. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2001 MOONDANCE 20 *** [12D] Climbs the recess about 4m to the right of the loose pillar.SEARCHING 22 *** [Trad] Climb the recess. McKenzie & D.5 m right of Moon Dance and climbs the vertical face: Ken Thrash 2010 MORSE CODE 27 *** (Trad) Begins with a boulder problem following the crack upwards 6m right of Moon Dance. FA: Dermot Brogan 2000 SNAKESKIN SAFARI SUIT 18 **** [10D] Every beginner should aspire to climb this classic 18. THE HARDER IT GETS 18 *** [8D] Right side of the leaning pillar. Chesney 2000 M & M 29 *** [7D] The blank wall left of the leaning pillar. FA: Claire Keaton 1999 (BB) Mark Seuring LOCH NESS 25 *** [7D] Start about 1. N. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts 1999 NEITHER HERE NOR THERE 19 ** [TR. FA: Alard Hufner BB: Nicole Hemphill & Alard Hufner 2004 AD MAIOREM DEI GLORIAM 23 * [8D] Starts 10m right of DP around the corner and 10m left of SSS. FA: Mark Seuring & Ulrike Kiefer 2003 LION HUNT 22 *** [10D] Funky face climbing. FA: Matt Murison & Mark Seuring 1999 THE HARDER YOU PUSH. Darryl Margetts. then through an overlap. Climb up the right facing corner.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts 1998 WOMEN AIN'T NOTHING BUT TROUBLE 24 **** [9D] A great route. Follow the crack all the way to the top. FA: Andrew Porter 2003 THE ONE THAT GOT AWAY 23 * [8D] The hidden line 4 m right of FAT ANNIE.CENOTAPH CORNER 16 *** [9D] Starts in the obvious corner. About opposite ANGEL OF MERCY. FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash 1998 FAT ANNIE 25 ** [6D] The bouldery face right of CFF. opposite the large tree. FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash 1999 BE QUICK OR BE DEAD 24 ** [10D] Starts on the face just right of the off width crack. FA: Sean Ferguson 2004 TEACHER'S PET 15 * [8D] Start about 4m to the left of the pinnacle. A tad contrived above the 3rd bolt. Climb the very balancy face without using the corner. one of best at the crag. FA: Sean Ferguson 2002 SLIM JIM 19 *** [7D] Takes the line immediately right of Fat Annie. then follow the open book to the top. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts 1998 26 . starting behind the bush. rather go do one of the many that are not eliminates! FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts 1998 HIGH SPEED DIRT 20 *** [11D] Starts to the right of the face around the corner from WANBT. climb the face directly in line with the bolts through a crux and then move right to an obvious layback crack to the chains. Starts about 3m to the left of CHICS FOR FREE. Starting on the arête to the left is 23. FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash 1998 THE PALLBEARER 17 * [6D] Starts directly below the rap point and directly opposite FISTICUFFS on the pinnacle. FA: Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts 1999 BANGING BRIDGET JONES 18 *** [9D] Climb up the break that kicks back a bit on top. Don`t chop any more trees! FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash 1999 OLD CRUSTY'S LAST STAND 18 *** [10D] Climb up the off width to the ledge above. FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash 1998 ZELLWEGER16 ** [9D] Starts about 2m to the left of THE PALLBEARER and goes off slightly to the right. It is to the left of The One That Got Away. FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash 1998 FISTICUFFS 13 * [5D] Start on the far right corner of the pinnacle. If you can climb 24. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts 1998 CHICS FOR FREE 15 * [9D] Starts about 10 m around the corner of TP and follows the corner to the top. FA: Darryl Margetts & Gareth Frost 2003 ZELLWEGER VARIATION 17 *** [9D] Climb the same as ZELLWEGER and then move off to the left under the roof and pull through to finish on independent chains.

FA: Ian Manson & Mike Hislop 1992 TASK SATURATED 25 *** [11D] Starts about 1. FA: Gareth Frost. retrobolted and called “YOU MEAN THAT'S IT. and then the crack above to the top. Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts 1999 WOOD PILE CRACK 18 *** [9D] The direct variation of WOOD PILE CRACK. Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts 1999 27 . The route name was overheard at the local cafe. below the ledge at 2m. Go straight up the face to the undercling. This climb was. Using the arete gain the crack system which trends up right to the chains at the top.IT'S 13 JIM.5m right of WITLESS. opened on trad retrobolted and accidently renamed “DREAM COME TRUE. Ian Manson 1992 (BB Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash 1999) AY MAAR DIE MENS IS „N WONDERLIKE DING 21 *** [10D] Climb the short face to a thin seam and up this into a right facing corner.” FA: J Sydow. J Sydow. Using both cracks to start with and then using only the right hand one. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts 1998 THE WINNEBAGO SMILE 19 *** [12D] Climb the thin crack up the shallow recess. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts 1999 VARIATION TO WOOD PILE CRACK 18 * [9D] This route starts as for DEAD ANT and then goes off to the right to gain the hand crack.N] Takes the finger crack up the smooth red face. up to the chains. moving left and up to the chains. Very overbolted (. Up to a double crack system.” FA: P Lloyd. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts 1999 CHAMPAGNE ON ICE 25 ** [6D] Start on the blocks of PLEASE DON'T TOUCH going right. Start on the obvious flake. Follow the crack to the chains.FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts 1999 SANTA'S LITTLE HELPER 20 *** [10D] Follow the line of bolts straight up the face to the left of REMINISCING. BUT NOT AS WE KNOW IT 15 * [6D] Start on the far left corner of the pinnacle. Some lateral thinking may be required for this climb. Pre-clip the first draw and climb up the arete. This climb was opened on trad. FA: Dave Chesney. (BB) Darryl Margetts PLEASE DON'T TOUCH 23 ** [9D] This climb starts about 10m to the right of WITLESS and goes up the south east facing wall. FA: Dave Chesney. Phil Lloyd. Ian Manson 1992 (BB Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts 1998) WITLESS 25 **** [1B. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts 1989 ANGEL OF MERCY 16 **** [8D] A classic 16 requiring some crack and laybacking skills. and moves out left over the V-shaped roof at about 2m. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2005 DEAD ANT 21 **** [10D] This climb starts around the corner & to the right of PLEASE DONT TOUCH. Finger lockin' heaven. FA: Laubie Lauscher & Steve Broccardo (N) 2000. Ian McMaster & Darryl Margetts 1999 REMINISCING 17 *** [11D] This route ascends the corner to the left of PLEASE DONT TOUCH.

THE TREES ARE MACHINES THAT MAKE) SWEETS FOR THE FISH 22 *** [7D] Climb the corner right of WOODPILE CRACK. low in the grade. Step left onto the face after the 4th bolt. Take care clipping the 3rd bolt. FA: Ken Thrash. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2005 MOUNTAIN PURSUIT 12 *** [7D] Climb the groove left of GRAVY TRAIN. Frost & Darryl Margetts 2000 28 . Super technical on-balance moves. Start up the break in the face to the right of MFG and move back into the open book above the small roof and finish on the last 6 bolts of MFG to finish on the same chains. FA: Darryl Margetts. FA: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts 1999 PANTY-SLAPPED 28 *** [8D] The arête behind the tree. Take care with your rope as there is quite a bit of rope wear when lowering. FA: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts 1999 SAND GLOD 16 * [12D] This is a variation to MISSION FROM GLOD (MFG). FA: Chris Vandereydt & Marcello Demilano 2005. FA: G. FACE IN THE TROUGH 23 *** [9D] A face climb staying right of the bolts. FA: Mark Seuring 2002 EMANCIPATED SPIDER CHICKS 20 *** [9D] Climb the face to the left of BUTTERFLY SNOWSTORM. FA: Tim Wilmot. Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts 2000 THE CLAREGATE 17 *** [12D] Between AUSSIE RULES & CAPTAIN HOOK the route goes up an open book. B & B 17 ** [Trad] Climb the chimney crack on good pro. FA: Bronwyn Smith & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2008 GRAVY TRAIN 15 **** [8D] Climb the blobby featured face around the corner of CAPTAIN HOOK. bypasses the overhang and climbs the face to chains on FITT. FA: Darryl Margetts & Gareth Frost 2000 MISSION FROM GLOD 16 * [11D] Starts in the corner below the small roof. FA: Greg Devine. Tim Wilmot & Dave Chesney 2000 LINING YOUR POCKETS 17 *** [9D] Climb the line of bolts to the left of MFG. Gareth Frost & N McKenzie 2000 DEAD GECKO 19 *** [7D] Just right of Gravy Train. FA: Dave Chesney & Darryl Margetts 2000 AUSSIE RULES 17 *** [10D] Just right of CLAREGATE. Darryl Margetts. Above the roof climb the open book to the chains. FA: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts 2000 FOREST GLUMP 14 *** [10D] Starts on a block. FA: Alard Hüfner & Mark Seuring 2001 CAPTAIN HOOK 18 *** [12D] Climb the flaring chimney crack right and down around the corner from GRAVY TRAIN. FA: Nicholas McKensie & Darryl Margetts 1999 UNFINISHED BUSINESS 22 ** [7D] Between Aussie Rules and Face In The Trough.

Step left at the top. FA: Bine Tittel 2005 CACTUS PALACE 23 ***** [10D] The obvious bolted diagonal line provides some cool sequences. FA Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2010. CHICKEN WING 15 * [8D] Climb short face and arete FA: D Margetts K Thrash 2008 SPARE RIB 12 * [7D] Climb break to the right of Chicken Wing FA:D Margetts E Margetts and A Margetts. Climbs are described from left to right: I DEXE 24 **** [10D] The direct line just left of CACTUS PALLACE. The wall faces north-northeast so remains sunny until early afternoon. Reunion Wall On the way to the Superbowl a smooth vertical face is found on the left behind some rocks and a cactus tree. FA: Dave Chesney. Greg Devine & Tim Wilmot 2000 CLOCKWORK ORANGE 16 ** [9D] Starts in same place as Butterfly Snowstorm but moves out rightwards FA:D Margetts and A Margetts 2008 CLOCKWORK ORANGE VARIATION 14 * [8D] Starts two meters left of rocky and joins Clockwork Orange after 2nd bolt.BUTTERFLY SNOWSTORM 13 ** [7D] Climb the left facing corner just left of ROCKY'S. CRACK UP 15 ** [5D] Climb the break 20 meters to the right of Spare Rib FA: D Margetts and A Margetts. Darryl Margetts. climbs a blunt arête feature. Philippe Gaboriaud 2004 FOR YOUR COLORFICATION 28 *** [8D] The hard-looking route to the right of CACTUS PALACE. FA: D Margetts and A Margetts 2009 ROCKY'S 15 ** [10D] This climb starts on the far right hand side. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts 1999 THE LADDER 14 ** [13D] Route just right of ROCKY'S. starting at the bottom of the steep descent on the walk in. FA: Dave Chesney & Darryl Margetts 2000 FADJA'S REVENGE 9 * [5D] 5 meters to the right of the Ladder FA: D Margetts A Margetts 2008 Breakfast Crag This recently developed crag is situated 100 Meters down and to the right of the right end of Hallucinogen wall. Climbs are described from left to right: ZOOTER 17 ** [9D] Climb a short face.move right to a layback and continue to chains FA:D Margetts 2008 GOLDEN PIE 17 ** [7D] Climb layback crack FA: D Margetts A Margetts 2008 BRUNCH 19 *** [8D] The best route at the crag. FA: Jens Richter 2005 29 .

Please do not use the original access from the right end of this crag any longer due to the erosion caused by its steepness. The extra bolts at the penultimate bolt are not the chains.? FA: Paul Brouard 2000 (BB) Roger Nattrass & Matt Murison. It offers superb endurance climbing and requires plenty of finesse. Low in the grade. Please brush the holds when you are done. You will arrive at the top of a buttress. Sunny until almost midday. just a mistake by the bolter.. Pass the Reunion Wall and after a few minutes you will arrive at a clearing at the base of Snapdragon. A couple of extremely poor holds on the face lead to easier ground. Speak to Dewald Kloppers GIANTS 27 *** [12D] Starts about 30 metres right of Snapdragon up some loose looking (but solid) rock. Still awaits a 2nd ascent! Might be 33. on the right a small path leads down toward the cliff top. Solid 7b+. FA: Dan Honeymann 2007 DOUG IN THE YELLOW HOUSE 26 **** [13D] Starts on tree roots 15m left of FRAZZLE. APPROACH: As for Hallucinogen Crag but keep walking another 300 metres until the path curves leftwards and by a cairn. A tenuous start leads to a jug fest through the roofs to the chains. from which you get a great view of Lotter‟s Desire.. Climbs are described from left to right: KIMCHI 27 *** [11D] Up the tricky steep face then some easier climbing before a testing finish. hosting two of Boven‟s most famous routes. Through the roof above the dead tree. SNAPDRAGON 29 ***** [13D] SA‟s most famous sport climb. Lotter‟s Desire enjoys shade earlier. finishing ¾ height chains. The big roofs work well for shelter during rain storms.30 Metres ASPECT: Northeast-facing. especially Snapdragon. Snapdragon and Lotter‟s Desire. FA: Richard Lord 1994 PROJECT. FA: Mark Seuring & Alard Hüfner 2004 30 . HEIGHT: 18 .The Superbowl One of the best crags. It is on every visitors ticklist and is starting to become very well used. A hard crux (knocking on 7c) unless you can jamit.. Starts on Rude Bushmen or Welcome to Ovamboland (not hard and more direct). FA: Mike Cartwright 1993 KARFOEFELING 26 **** [13D] Awesome. Really good and not a giveaway! FA: Jens Richter & Bine Tittel 2005 FRAZZLE 32/33 *** [15D] The blankness just left of Snapdragon. FA: Richard Lord & Mike Hislop 1992 HACK AND SLAY 30 *** [16D] Starts 6m right of Snapdragon and tackles the lovely looking smooth open corner using some rather small holds. then go left and up to pass some overlaps. Snapdragon and the others! The path leads down on the left into the trees and along the base of the crags.

low in the grade. LOTTER'S DESIRE 28 ***** [11D] The amazing orange wall. FA: Andrew Pedley. Solid 8b. The route starts right of the roots.. There is potential to take the route through the massive roof above… FA: Mark Millar 2006 SOUL MANDATE 25 *** [11D] Start between the fork of the White tree about 5m left of Miss McKinley. FA: Richard Lord 1993 (BB) Gary Lotter HYPERTENSION 30 **** [13D] A brilliant soft 8a.. Requires a bit of everything . Starts on bouldery moves just left of a bushy tree. excellent footwork. FA: Mark Millar 2004 MISS MCKINLEY 23 *** [9D] 30 m right of Lotters Desire. FA: Alard Hüfner 1998 HARD NORMAL DADDY ** 25 [10D] Climb the obvious corner right of Rude Bushmen.LOSLAPPIE LINK-UP 28 ***** (15D) The ultimate line up this face!! Start up Welcome to Ov‟land for 2-3 bolts then onto Kerfoefeling. Take care of the bees. FA: Paul Brouard 2001 (BB) Matthew Murison TRIPOLACTIC FAIRYTALES 27 **** [10D] Up the technical face then right-facing corner above. Low in grade. Probably 7b+ but 7c sounds better. A thuggish start leads to some good climbing above. WELOCOME TO OVAMBOLAND 31 **** (15D) Blasts straight up to top of the crag via awkward slopey pulls in the roof. Doesn‟t look hard from below but an absence of any useful holds on the headwall gives plenty of spice. This route overhangs by almost 10m! FA: Alard Hüfner 1998 OUT ON A LIMB 26 *** [10D] Head up the left hand limb of the big white fig tree (below SM). finger strength. Was 27 then 26 now 27. FA: Will Watkins 1998 (BB) Darryl Margetts & Matt Murison BEEHIVE 12 * [15D] Just right of TRIPOLACTIC FAIRYTALES there is a tree growing on the rock. FA: Dan Honeyman 2007. Then load your forearms and blast up the incredible leaning headwall to the top of the crag! FA: Wesley Black. then after the 2nd bolt above last roof section on Kerfoefeling.stamina. October 2010. heading slightly right. Clipping the 3rd bolt before starting. FA: Alard Hüfner 1998 STRATA 32 *** [14D]. Move leftward toward the recess above and then up the wall to the left. so much fun. probably 6c+. October 2010. FA: Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts 1996 31 . move back onto Ov‟land at the jugs on the slabby part.JHB/MAG Section RUDE BUSHMAN 24 **** [15D] This route starts 3m left of Lotters Desire starting with a little overlap then heads rightwards into a niche. and the climbing is pretty good too. FA: Andrew Pedley 2005 TUGELA BLUE 27 ** [12D] This route blasts through the junky roofs on jugs. Fight through the initial overhang and fire up the headwall above to the chains. Starts just left of Tripolactic. Tricky start (easier on the left) then up. reach. avoids rope drag. Five stars for the beauty of the line. Bolts sponsored by MCSA . then up and left through a small roof.

start up Glen then move left onto Le Sketch on the midway ledge. a few metres right of the tree growing up the cliff. can skip almost every other bolt. INTO THE BLACK 21 ** [15D] Just left of Precision Feather. Take care of the bees. FA: Darryl Margetts & Martin Seegers 1992 CLUB TROPICANA COCONUTS 24 *** [9D] The route is about 3 meters right of the sparsely bolted 22 and about 8 meters left of Glen. Mark Phillips. FA: Darryl Margetts & Greg Debvine 1996 PARADISE BY THE C 26 *** [10D] Takes the steep line just to the right of the tree growing up the cliff. FA: Mark Seuring 1999 HALLUCENOGENIC TOREADOR 26 **** [13D] Climbs the nest line. FA: Darryl Margetts. Hard if you can reach the layback! FA. Overbolted but fun. FA: Darryl Margetts 1998 PRECISION FEATHER 21 **** [12D] A super climb! One of the better 21‟s in Boven. Place a long draw before moving onto Le Sketch. Barry Crouse. FA: Sybren van der Leij 1999 LE SKETCH 23 ** [11D] The route starts just to the left of GLEN and fires through the small roof 5m below the top of the crag. Up then across a bushy face and more climbing above. The right most climb on this section of wall. FA: Darryl Margetts 1998. FA: C Nicole 1997 (BB) Darryl Margetts BRAIN DAMAGED 22 *** [12D] Newish route to the right of Hallucinagenic Toreador. Continue up the face to finish with a mantle at the top to clip the chains. Follow the two bolts and crack to overhang. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince 2006 SLEEPLESS TAD 22 *** [5D. Climb this crack until it is possible to move out left.N. Heavily overbolted. Some smooth rock and reach moves low down! FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince 2003 LE COMBO 22 **** [13D] An often climbed variation. Mark Philipps & Andrew Lynch 1996 TEEN SPIRIT 20 *** [14D] The climb starts in the offwidth layback crack about 2m to the right of PENNY ROYAL TEE.TREE HOUSE 20 * [14D] Goes through the tree roots as for BEEHIVE to the recess. Darryl Margetts & Dave Chesney 1999 32 . You need extra natural gear. FA: Voytek Modrzewski 1998 ALMOST MY BALLS 20 ** [14D] The line on the left. GLEN 21 *** [14D]. FA: Ken Thrash. PENNY ROYAL TEE 17 *** [14D] Starts on a steep looking right facing crack.A] About 10m right of the tree roots is a bolt at 5-6m.

Just left is a fine looking crack. Climbs are described from left to right: HEIGHT: 10 . APPROACH: Approach as for Superbowl then keep walking past some wet ground.20 Metres ASPECT: East facing. Route may be retrobolted. FA: G Erens & R Dodding 1992 WYSIWYG 12 * [Trad] Climbs the obvious corner ramp to the left of the large stacked roofs.see WYSIWYG‟s description. rail 2m left and then up the headwall. and some quality climbing head here. The lower offs are too small to fit both rope & draws through when cleaning.. Climb the crack. Route may be retrobolted . FA: Axel Wachter 2000 NEW YORK CHOCOLATE FUDGE CRUNCH 18 ** [10D] This route takes the next arete right of Chunky Monkey.N] Stick clip the 1st bolt or place friends. FA: Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens 1991 33 . FA: Adam 1994 (BB) Herman du Plessis HERMAN'S ROUTE 24 ** [5D. Some of the routes that were opened on trad could be retro-bolted to make this a more popular crag. up a bit (past a gully that leads to the top of the cliffline – the old access path.see WYSIWYG description. FA: Mark “Pirate” van Wyk 2000 HOME ALONE 19 ** [Trad] Climb the corner and up a short v-groove to the top. There are no anchors. FA: Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens 1991 THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS 19 *** [Trad. Route may be retrobolted . Permission has been given for this route to be retrobolted as long as the opening party & route names remain the same. The huge roof on the left is not as good a shelter from rain as the caves next door at Superbowl. FA: G Erens & R Dodding 1992 CHUNKY MONKEY 27 **** [9D] The route climbs a really obvious square arête then rails out rightwards wildy! FA: Mark Seuring 1998 HOUNDS MOUSSE 25 *** [11D] Through the groove 8m right of Chunky Monkey. FA: G Erens & R Dodding 1992 PUPPET ON A STRING 19 **** [Trad] About 50-60m along right from the descent gully is a shallow corner.A] The shallow corner. FA: Herman du Plessis 1992 TRUE BLUE 16 ** [Trad] Takes the corner left of WYSIWYG. now unused) then the path leads down again.The Left Wing For some peace and quiet. Move up wall to gain recess. WHY 20 * [Trad] Climbs the easy break left of HTG up to a tree. FA: Clive Curson 1993 HERMAN THE GERMAN 26 ** [10D] Climb up the next route to the recess. shady 11 am onwards. Climb right and up to a tree.just ask the first acsentionist first! There are some routes that will remain trad.

FA: Mark Seuring 2001 UITERS TORS 21 * [Trad. FA: Mike Hislop 1992 SHUT UP AND DIE LIKE AN AVIATOR 16 ** [Trad. Mike Hislop. The corner feature puts some routes into the shade early. The big orange left facing wall of Heart of China is an obvious landmark. A scramble to the top of this block will take you to the leftmost climb of this section. FA: Stewart Middlemiss 1991 BIKINI RED 28 ***** [9D] Stunning! In the middle of the face.R] A fairly poorly bolted line left of Transmogrifier. just right of Sweet Cousin Cocaine. Climb out left and up to the chains. FA: Grant Murray 1992 SWEET COUSIN COCAINE 25 **** [10D] From the right of the block climb past a bouldery lower section and a crack to the right of the overlap to a two bolt lower-off.25 Metres ASPECT: East. FA: Stewart Middlemiss. The left face is East facing like most others at Wonderland. Fight your way through the choss at the top and avoid killing people below. FA: Mike Hislop 1992 STAGE FRIGHT 20 * [Trad] Climbs the arete to the choss above. Sparse gear.BALROG 25 * [9D. Scramble up about 8m further along and walk back to the left hand edge. Start on the block below the obvious V-groove. The first bolt is very high but the climbing is super easy and can sling a pillar. a few metres left of HEART OF CHINA. Poor gear. Very poorly protected. Climbs are described from left to right: ENDLESS OCTOBER 24 **** [9D] At the left end of The Theatre is a raised ledge/block. FA: Tessa Little 2001 TRANSMOGRIFIER 26 *** [9D]. FA: Clive Curson 1992 CENTRE STAGE 18 * [Trad] This is the leftmost route on the right wall of The Theatre. FA: Stewart Middlemiss 1991 34 . Low in the grade. FA: Clive Curson 1992 INTO THE NIGHT WE SLIDE 23 **** [Trad] Just to the right of the major dihedral in The Theatre. Don‟t stray left at the top. Needs rebolting. Clive Curson & Chris Lomax 1992 The Theatre A few incredible lines including some classic trad – the big obvious orange wall you can see for miles! HEIGHT: 18 . Climbs a gnarly thin seam & trends up & left.R] Trad route between Transmogrifier & Endless October. Brilliant but needs rebolting.1P] The obvious crackline on the left of The Theatre. Climbs the corner. just trust those feet and go! Used to be 27. FA: Gary Lotter 1991 NIGHT OF THE TOAST 23 *** [Trad.X] Climbs the scoop 5m right of BIKINI RED. APROACH: Continue past the Left Wing until a huge loose standing block is reached.

PAUL‟S PROJECT. prove me wrong! FA: Richard Lord 1992 35 . The long steep textured right facing wall. FA: Stewart Middlemiss. Probably 32 to 34 depending on how many holds come off and if you can do a mono pull-up. Originally graded 29. FA: Darryl Margetts & Martin Seegers 1991 PROJECT…Danny Pinkas‟ Project up the smooth face on the right of the wall. The bolt is unnecessary. Scramble up to the tree on the left and traverse to a ledge on the right (bolt). Great climbing with a single stopper crux. APROACH: Walk on and around the corner from the Theatre. FA: Russ Dodding. Was 25. FA: Mike Hislop 1992 TECTONIC WALL PROJECT. KINDRED SPIRITS 26 **** [9D] At the right end of the ledge. Top few bolts placed by Andrew Pedley.. Climb the corner to a roof. skip it. HEIGHT: 18 . and right around the corner to under a roof (awkward 2nd clip out left).HEART OF CHINA 23 ***** [Trad. M Erens & G Erens 1992 WAITING FOR GOSSIP 23 *** [2b.N] Climbs the corner to the left of Damn the Torpedoes.1B. Feel free to place the rest and open this impressive line. left of Joy Division. pull through and up to a tree at the top. Climb this and exit left. JOY DIVISION 30 **** [12D] The rough textured blank wall. Ask Paul Bouard if you can open it. are a pair of open books at the top of the crag. Some bolts on the blank face above a ledge. The bolt can be seen from the ground. FA: Grant Murray 1992 The Right Wing Has anybody been back since 1992?! If you are looking for some hidden gems go there! The pathwas recently cleared out by Pedley and Weaver..go on..N. One of the best trad lines at The Restaurant. Start below this one. Re-bolted by Dirk Smith August 2007. Climbs are described from left to right: STAR GAZERS 17 ** [Trad] Approximately 30m right of THE THEATRE. Apparently hard to find placements for the belay at the top. They are 10m apart . until you can move back left to reach the base of the corner.25 Metres ASPECT : Also East facing with trees protecting the base of the wall. Carry on to the top.the right hand one has a pillar at its foot and a tree 5m up. Totally impossible if you are short.. climb up a few moves. Chris Lomax & Richard Lord 1992 DAMN THE TORPEDOES 27 *** [1B. left of a very steep leaning wall (Tectonic Wall).A] Climb the „‟Indian Creek‟‟ type corner 20m left of Joy Division.A] CLASSIC!! Up the middle of the big left facing orange wall.2P. Climb slightly rightwards with difficulty up the thin face. via a leftwards trending line of cracks and jugs. Gain the ledge below the tree and then follow the crack above to the top of the pillar below the open book.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts December 2007 36 . If you do these climbs you deserve big respect for being different and making the effort! Go do them! COLLAPSE OF REASON 23 *** [10D] The left route.The Stone Philosopher Area This crag is around the corner from The Right Wing. FA: Peter Martin & Colin Crabtree 2005 RISE OF FAITH 22 **** [10D] The right route. past JOY DIVISION. FA: Peter Martin & Colin Crabtree 2005 UNEXPLORED GALAXY 21 ** [8D] Around the corner of Rise of Faith.

At the time of writing climbers could enter for free -please respect this kind gesture and be absolutely sure you do nothing to upset the proprietors. APPROACH: Drive from town up the road from Roc „n Rope.acid house [ GPS: S25 39 12.5] INCIDENTALLY I'M MACHO .6 E30 21 11.4 E30 21 00. The main wall is down by the river and enjoys early morning shade till the sun moves over the gorge between 10h00 and 12h00. steep or slabby routes.foundry [ GPS: S25 39 12. The rap in routes face West. one looks down onto Triple Tier Crags on the other side of the gorge.0] TIME BOMB BLOCK FEATURE [ GPS: S25 39 10.5 E30 21 03.3 E30 21 03.He-man [ GPS: S25 39 10. before the road becomes a gravel road.6 E30 21 07.0] The Gym A popular crag for swimming and doing very short. Some routes here are reached by abseiling onto a stance and then climbing out.6 E30 20 57.8] vol libre .1] new age .TRIPLE TIER CRAGS See Map for Restaurant Area When standing on top of Gaper Buttress.GYM [ GPS: S25 39 13.foundry [ GPS: S25 39 11.7 E30 20 59.far side [ GPS: S25 39 12. GPS points are provided : RUN FOREST RUN .foundry [ GPS: S25 39 10. To help find the abseil points of these crags. These sport routes are top class and lots of potential for new routes still exists.1 E30 20 51.7] TOO EARLY FOr the sky .he-man [ GPS: S25 39 10. HEIGHT: 8 .4 E30 20 56.2] APARTMENT BLOCK FEATURE [ GPS: S25 39 10.9] meltdown . but the hanging stances are mostly in the shade.9] cucumber zoo .15 Metres ASPECT: The crag has three aspects. Drive in and stop at reception to explain that you are a climber.2 E30 21 04. 37 .0] jump in the fire . After a couple of kilometers the Elandskrans Resort is on the left.

FA: Fran Botha 1994 TROUBLED WATERS [ GPS: S25 39 11. cross here then 15 metres after the bridge take a small path on the left. which starts on the right. FA: Ruth Ferreira 1995 38 .separated by hard moves. Scramble down the stream until the small crag can be seen. Stick clip the first bolt. 3m right of the arete. On the right is a good path curving down to the stream (past some stone circles). Burly. If you do end up on this path. Thin start. Please don‟t use the old path from the camping. Stay on the main path until the stream where you will arrive at a wooden bridge.6] 28 *** [4D] Mega power problem just right of the arete.A really lovely approach is to park just after the reception area of Elandskrans Resort. There are some good holds . a tiny stream through some bushes. Climbs are described from left to right: NOTHING IN MODERATION 23 *** [6D] Slab route at the water's edge. FA: Ralph Brucher 1995 (BB) John Orrock LITHIUM 24 *** [5D] The original route here. a few metres before the main hall at Elandskrans. FA: Rachel Kelsey 1994 THE DARK SIDE 22 *** [5D] Another slab route. 3-4m right. There is a path leading down on the left to the small waterfall just upstream of the Gym. the leftmost in The Gym. Cross the river at the lip of the first waterfall. FA: Guy Holwill 1993 MONKEY MONKEY 19 *** [5D] Route with power start.4 E30 20 51. FA: Ian Guest 1994 BOOGER BEING 25 *** [5D] Sustained powerful route up the arete. FA: John Orrock 1993 NUNS ON THE RUN 27 *** [6D] Starts just right of MONKEY MONKEY.3] 20 *** [6D] This route is most easily reached by turning left at the stream lookout where the path first comes down from the campsite.4 E30 20 51. This path leads across some field (make sure you keep left). by a small wall. Take a toothbrush to clean after rain. FA: Pete Becker 1992 ANY OBJECTIONS 19 ** [7D] Follows a crack line just left of the gully corner on the right of the face. cairn markers. About 2-3m left of the gully. FA: Mike Cartwright 1993 JUST STICK IT 23 ** [5D] Short power face problem. The route is up the little face just on the other side. FA: Tim Hoole 1994 MONKS IN THE GYM [ GPS: S25 39 15. This path is eroding badly. it leads you down to a small „lookout‟ above the river. following a line of old concrete fence posts. Please be careful .at least one person has fallen off here already. and down onto a lovely grassy plateau (opposite the Restaurant Crag). The path goes down to a plateau next to the river. then turn right (upstream) 50 metres and the path leads into the stream by a small waterfall.

the grade goes down to 11/12 . Descend into the chasm opposite the path down by rapping off the chains. FA: Mike Behr 1996 INCIDENTALLY I'M MACHO [ GPS: S25 39 10. on a separate rope if you want it to stay dry. FA: Grant Murray 1991 BUMBLIES HAVE FEELINGS TOO 18 *** [9D] The leftmost route on u-bolts with a thin start.22 Metres ASPECT: These climbs catch some shade from the blocks and corner features in the morning.The next 3 routes are situated on the east side of the little gorge. FA: Ruth Ferreira Sept 94 He-Man Area A „lekker‟ (very nice) Crag. Climbs are described from left to right: COTAPAXI 19 * [Trad] Climbs the wall 10 . This route climbs a thin (#1 Rock) size crack up the wall. FA: Chris Vind 1995 (BB) Mike Behr RUN FOREST RUN 12 **** [11D] Start from the lower of the belay points on the right. You will see the obvious massive detached block (Time Bomb Block). Traverse left at top to avoid vegetation. Another 30 metres along the cliff top you will see lots of lower-offs and chains. One of the main features of this crag is the infamous TIME BOMB BLOCK. just above and downstream of the following 2 routes. Abseil from very visible abseil point above INCIDENTALLY I'M MACHO. IYWITSD. exiting left at the top. directly opposite the stream ‘overlook'. FA: Ruth Ferreira Sept 94 (Cleaned & Polished: Mike Behr) FOREST GUMP [ GPS: S25 39 13. Climb the spotlessly clean wall. Gain the grassy plateau (above the gorge) opposite the Restaurant Crag. Take all the previous precautions for a happy ending to a great route. follow faint paths along the cliff edge. If you deviate a metre left at the crux. MAIN WALL Pass the time bomb block and another detached block (Cat in the Hat). but move rightwards through the small roof. APPROACH : As for The Gym.6 E30 20 51. Cross the river at the cascades upstream and go a few metres beyond the twin aloes to a clean area of rock with a couple of bolts in it.still fun. LIKE A BOX OF CHOCOLATES 14 *** [9D] Take a rucksack for the lead rope.8] 15 *** [14D] Climb the same spotlessly clean wall.20m left of IIM. really quite easy to access so long as you are competent at abseiling and scrambling. Actually You‟re a Wimp is one of the best 22s at Boven.9] 19 **** [10D] 39 . for approx 300 metres. though. Rumour has it that the crack behind this block has doubled in size since the first routes were opened here! HEIGHT: 15 . starting from 2.4 E30 21 00. This route is protected by ringbolts.

Start 10m right of TEFTS. FA: Mike Cartwright & Fran Botha 1992 TOO LATE FOR THE STARS 8 **** [9B] A perfect route to see if you like heights or not. FA: Grant Murray 1993 THE CAT IN THE HAT 27 ** [Trad. FA: Mike Cartwright 1992 MIND GAMES PROJECT Starts just right of shadow man. Can be dusty. Abseil off bolts at the top. FA: Richard Lord 1991 THE TIME BOMB BLOCK The next climbs are on the Time Bomb Block. Be aware that you need to pendulum to the left to reach the stance. to a decent slopey ledge 15 m down.0] 18 ** [10D] Rap down 200m along from the ab-in routes at the gym.25 Metres 40 . hide in the very back of the deepest section of the caves.Climb the flakey break 5m left of the arete.5] 21 ** [13B] Ab in 15 right of TLFTS. exiting up the left hand crack. This is a project bolted by Alex Bester and Wesley Black. FA: Clive Curson 1994 IT 22 *** [8D] Clip 3 bolts on AYAW. A fine rap-bolting affair.3 E30 20 55. Enjoy the view. Trend right into a break and up. Climb the overhanging rock in the small theatre.4 E30 20 56. If you are keen to try it. Use the chains to ab to a stance slightly left. HEIGHT: 10 . BB Alex Bester and Wesley Black Oct 2010. Fire straight up the wall on u- bolts to lower-offs. Good bouldering or hacky sack games are to be had here when it rains. FA: Nerine Richards 2002 THE WORLD IS NOT ENOUGH [ GPS: S25 39 10.JHB/MAG Section TOO EARLY FOR THE SKY [ GPS: S25 39 10. Climbs are described from left to right: SHADOW MAN 27 **** [8D] Climb the sequential left hand edge from a hanging stance to a single bolt. keep a sling or quick draw handy. In an elecrical storm. including one of the most memorable 22s around. One of the top 19's at Boven. FA: Grant Murray 1991 ACTUALLY YOU'RE A WIMP 22 ***** [10D] Start with 2 bolts as for IIM. Bolts sponsored by MCSA . contact Alex or Wesley. FA: Mike Cartwright & Stephen King 1991 (BB) Clive Curson SUPER EGO 23 *** [9D] The arete. Probably well into the thirties and an amazing line. FA: Sean Ferguson 2002 The Foundry Some of the steepest climbing at the Restaurant is found here. past two bolts. Step left and climb straight up to the break in the vegetation. 2B] Approach by scrambling down the chimney behind the 2nd apartment-sized hanging block. Some top bolts are found 25m before reaching the Time Bomb Block.

FA: Stephan Isebeck 1994 VOL LIBRE [ GPS: S25 39 12. Mega pump with crux at last move.). A. about 10m left of the right hand edge of this wall.” FA: Doug Ward 1994 41 . “Snake. FA: Jayson Orton & Ross Suter 2000 At the main cave. Climbs are described from left to right: DANCES WITH WOMBATS 24 *** [11D] Start 5m below and just to the left of VOL LIBRE. or on a very cloudy or a rainy day (as it‟s steep). Climb out on Smelt Down (tough after a day‟s climbing) or scramble out further right around the corner (grade 12. Best visited on a cloudy day and even in the middle of summer. Can be dusty if not climbed recently. FA: Gilles Benier 1997 (BB) Ian Guest SMELT 24 *** [10D] Great route with a "go-for-it" crux. You are now on top of MELTDOWN and from here you can see Jump In The Fire. A fall onto the next tier could hurt a lot.a. Please note this route is 28m long. APPROACH : As for He Man Area. the obvious steep route! Make sure everybody in your party can manage some easy climbing out. The path climbs up slightly until a ridge of large boulders is reached (cairn). FA: Glenn Harrison & Jacques Holland 1994 DR HECKYL 18 * [5D] Shares bolt 1 and chains with Mr Jive. Do not screw up your approach. Take 4 long quick draws for the roof going diagonally up right. Stay out of the corner. FA: Jacques Holland & Glenn Harrison 1994 The following climbs are in the main cave.2 E30 21 04. FA: Ian Guest 1994 ZOOZANIA 24 **** [12D] Climbs the diagonal to the left of JITF.9] 21 **** [12D] Awesome face climbing off the extreme left hand edge of the small subsidiary ledge.ish. FA: Günther Migeotte 1994 MERCURY REV 27 **** [10D] Wild pump up mega steep rock just to the right of KEEP THE FAITH's corner. The rap chains are on flat white rock on the cliff edge. Walk carefully around the base. when the sun is so high in the sky that the cave makes its own shade. KEEP THE FAITH 25 *** [9D] Starts up a steep corner at the left edge of the main ledge area. close to the abseil. a tricky scramble down to the lower tier will take you to the next two routes MR JIVE 17 * [5D] On the arete on the lower buttress.ASPECT: It is not called the FOUNDRY for nothing. then follow the path along the edge of the plateau." Belay off cold shuts and top out if you want. FA: John Orrock 1994 DANSE DE LA PLUIE 20 **** [13D] "Rain dance" shoots up right of VL on u-bolts with a tricky start.k. This somewhat runout route shares the last bolt and chains of VL. Translation: "Free falling. it can bake here even in winter. FA: Tim Hoole 1994 THE SURGE 26 *** [10D] The line right of MR.

Move up then right towards the skyline arete. FA: Paul Fatti & Mike Scott 1992 OFFROUTE 13 * [Trad] Start up ABROUTE and then climb the recess on the right. Climb the slanting crack to the right and pull the roof to chains. This bypasses the obvious fierce reach move.0] 20 *** [6D] Starts in SMELTDOWN'S corner. FA: John Orrock 1994 MELTDOWN [ GPS: S25 39 10. Move diagonally left onto a ledge.5 E30 21 03. glossy face to a sloping ledge below the upper corner. This route starts about 4m from the prominent dihedral. clean. Climb to the top of this and continue up the steep face above to the top. 6m left of the corner. Can be used to climb out from the crag at the end of the day. which goes through a steep. Climb straight up through the overhang to the tree.JUMP IN THE FIRE [ GPS: S25 39 11. FA: Mike Cartwright 1993 42 . Starts at the right hand edge of the main face. Continue up the corner to the top. goes through the roof along the flake clearly visible from the platform. FA: John Orrock 1994 BEAUTY 20 * [Trad] Walk left from the abseil point along the ledge to where it ends below an open recess and to the right of a prominent nose 8m up. Start up the right leaning crack and climb it via a tricky layback move before stepping left to a resting point below the small overhang. Pull left after a few metres. Climb up and then move diagonally back right on good hand holds across an exposed face to a line of flakes sloping up left. yard up on growing incuts. Belay on the left. cutting through the entire height of the cliff. The exposure might make this feel much harder! FA: John Orrock 1994 COAL MAN 20 ** [8D] Starts about 7m south of the rock platform.also very reachy. right-facing corner about 20m left of the abseil point. FA: John Orrock 1994 SMELTDOWN 17 *** [6D] Starts in a corner about 8m right of a large dihedral. Step left and up onto the face above. FA: Paul Fatti & Mike Scott 1992 CORNEY 15 * [Trad] The upper part of the climb follows the prominent. FA: Mike Scott & Paul Fatti 1992 ABROUTE 17 * [Trad] Nowdays people usually rap in using the chains of SMOULDER or SMELTDOWN. FA: John Orrock 1995 SMOULDER 18 *** [6D] Fun route . This route follows the abseil line up to the abseil tree (large stamvrug). marked with bird-lime. then up SMOULDER to the chains. Start just right of the prominent overhangs 10m up and climb the crack leading into a left facing corner. Make a strenuous take-off from the right hand side of the ledge and continue awkardly up the left slanting crack to where it is possible to step left to a small ledge. This point is about 10m above the base of the cliff and 15m to the right of the prominent recess. FA: Glenn Harrison 1995 (BB) Steve Coleman COKE STOKER 21 *** [6D] The next 4 routes are on the east face of the Rock Platform.8] 22 **** [10D] A wild route on monster holds. Climb steeply up the corner to where it is possible to move diagonally up left onto the massive blocks on the right-hand side of the nose.3 E30 21 03.

This line joins the now bolted SMELTDOWN. and head for the top.28 Metres ASPECT : Facing North just like most of Tripple Tier. except for summer mornings when the big corner on the left casts a shadow over the crag. climb past 5 bolts. FA: Doug Ward 1995 ACID ON THE BRAIN 25 *** [11D] Starting about 8m from the corner. The route takes three overlaps en route to the top. FA: Stephan Isebeck 1994 FUNKY ACID TRIP 27 *** [9D] Around the arete and corner . trending diagonally right to the blocky ledge. Climb the corner crack for 2m. To the left of the corner are two very steep jam cracks. FA: Doug Ward 1994 43 . traverse right across the slab and then gain the ledge up to the right. Climb the corner crack to the ledge .1] 19 *** [11D] Climb the cool corner. right leaning layback crack. Climbs are described from left to right: CUCUMBER ZOO [ GPS: S25 39 12. Wasps also love these faces . especially if you don't bump your head in most doorways.REFERENDUM 17 ** [Trad] Abseil off the big stamvrug and then walk back 40m along the ledge towards The Restaurant. FA: Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens 1992 The Acid House Enough hard and steep climbs to get you high! HEIGHT: 18 . then Walk in 130m from the FAR SIDE or abseil in from chains placed in an open book with a sandy stance on top of CUCUMBER ZOO. Ascend the delightful wall above. FA: Doug Ward 1994 NINE INCH NAILS 24 **** [9D] Climb just right of the big roof and corner on the left of the wall. Prepare for some extended reaches.it starts about 5m from the corner. either side of a huge block. to a belay above the roof or aid up to the stance using the 3 bolts under the overlap. FA: Stephan Isebeck 1994 HALFWAY HOUSE 19 *** [8D] Rap down 5m right of the previous routes.escape up and leftwards. In a corner is a steep. FA: Gordon Erens & Russ Dodding 1992 SHIFTING THE GOALPOSTS 17 ** [Trad] Starts below the 15cm wide corner-crack to the right of the abseil tree. FA: Stephan Isebeck 1994 NAILING JELLY TO THE CEILING 25 *** [10D] This shares the first and last bolt with the previous route.do not get put off by this for the climbing is great. Use this route to ab in. some 15m from the big corner.6 E30 21 07. After the roof move slightly left. Harder for midgets. APPROACH: Approach as for the Foundary. this crag also does not have much shade at the base. FA: Günther Migeotte 1994 CUT ME SOME SLACK 23 **** [9D] The line just to the right of NIN.

Perfect in winter. then head up the wall.MISTER EXCELLENT 24 **** [9D] Starts left of the corner arête. NEW AGE [ GPS: S25 39 12. Climb this to lower offs. FA: Doug Ward 1994 CANNIBAL 28 *** (10D) The obvious arête. keep walking along the cliff top.6 E30 21 11. Step right to a good crack. FA: Clive Curson 1996 (BB) John Orrock 1994 JOYRIDE 18 *** [8D] Climb the previous crack to the top of the pillar. One can abseil in from anchors on the block or walk about 15m past to a scramble path to reach the base. A huge block can be seen hanging over a steep clean face past the overhanging crags of the Foundry and Acid House. The trail walks back to the base of the crag and eventually reaches the Acid house 130m along. The route is probably a grade easier for tall persons and harder for midgets. FA: John Orrock 1994 44 . The route NEW AGE is situated on this face. probably very good. The Far Side More fine potential climbing routes are waiting to be opened here if you are willing to walk past this point and explore a little. HEIGHT: 18 Metres ASPECT : Faces North. APPROACH: As for the Foundry.0] 25 **** [8D] Start up the corner crack for 6m. good early on a summer morning or after rain. FA: Jens Richter.

less popular these days). The crags are situated around the Elandskrans Resort (this used to be a very popular campsite.THE RESTAURANT CRAGS This was the first area to be developed at Boven. stop in for a beer and a bite after climbing. 45 . and still hosts some of the best in Boven. At the time of writing. the Restaurant (coined „The Restaurant at the End of the Universe‟) is open. back in the early nineties.

46 .

. At the time of writing the climbers could enter for freeplease respect this kind gesture and be absolutely sure you do nothing to upset the proprietors..! (Hard or reachy?) FA: Tim Hoole 1993 (BB) Ian Guest FIRST ASSIGNMENT 16 *** [9D] Classic at its grade. Any good guesses why Ian didn't open this one.. Drive in and stop at reception to explain that you are a climber.3]. Climbs are described from left to right: 47 . before the road becomes a gravel road. APPROACH: Drive from town up the road from Roc „n Rope. pass the swimming pools. On the right. perhaps for a warm up before going on to Restaurant or Tripple Tier. turn sharp right and after 20 metres the path forks. After a couple of kilometers the Elandskrans Resort is on the left. At the time of writing the climbers could enter for freeplease respect this kind gesture and be absolutely sure you do nothing to upset the proprietors. FA: Lizette Guest 1993 Restaurant Crag This crag did not make the front cover of Rotpunkt for nothing. HEIGHT: 18 . Shady by late morning. Vertical wall facing north. heading right towards the cliffs past a warning sign. On foot. Climbs are described from left to right: THE GALLERY 20 *** [9D] Steep start to a great face/corner. The climbs are good. Drive in and stop at reception to explain that you are a climber. About 50m down you will see a small path on the left.28 Metres ASPECT : South East. the original Restaurant at the End of the Universe! Park anywhere out of the way. Shady by late morning. HEIGHT: 15 Metres ASPECT : South East. Stop in for a beer or a meal at the Restaurant.The School A small crag worth visiting.2 E30 20 48. FA: Lizette Guest 1993 I GUEST NOT 25 *** [10D] Steep powerful arete just right of THE GALLERY. Go left and down over some slippery rocks. long and steeper than they appear when looking from the Buttress. After a couple of kilometers the Elandskrans Resort is on the left. before the road becomes a gravel road. heading slightly upwards till you find the first routes after 40m or so [ GPS: S25 39 13. The crag can also be accessed from the left end by walking past the School sector. just before the main function hall there is a path heading steeply down the hillside. Stiff take-off. APPROACH : Drive from town up the road from Roc „n Rope. Just before reaching the viewpoint from the (Gaper) buttress.

FA: Mike Cartwright 1993 ERASERHEAD 28 **** [10D] Clip BLOCKBUSTER'S first bolt. A] Climbs the shallow corner to the left of GRETCHEN GOES TO NEBRASKA. FA: Grant Murray 1993 JAMBO 25 ***** [13D] Climbs a small arete to a roof 5m up. FA: Chris Wynn 1997 NOT THE NINE O'CLOCK NEWS 22 *** [11D] This climb used to start up a tree which has fallen away. Keep to the left through the tree to reach good climbing up the crack and face above. FA: Andy de Klerk 1994 JIGABOO 24 **** [8D] An excellent line. The next 4 routes can be done from this large ledge. The huge break up the wall is a few metres to the right. walk left along the limb. FA: Richard Lord 1991 BLOCKBUSTER 25 *** [9D] Starts just right of ERASERHEAD.A] Climb the thin crack about 30m left of WORLDS APART and around the corner. Then take the left break up to anchors. Can be climbed from the bottom. in the middle of the Restaurant crag. Don't relax too much on the headwall… FA: Andy de Klerk 1994 LIMBO DIRECT 21 ** [12D] Direct start past a bolt to lunge for the branch. starting on the lower Gretchen ledge. Low in the grade. then continue straight up as BLOCKBUSTER trends slightly right. FA: Clive Curson & Mike Bruncke 1993 ACCESS ROUTE TO GRETCHEN ET AL 15 * [9D] Climb up 7 bolts on a line just left of BONAR and step left to Gretchen's stance.. FA: Peter Lazarus 1991 (N) LOOKING FOR THE LOBSTER 21 ** [12D] About 8m right of the WORLD'S APART fingercrack.PURPLE DROLL 21 ** [Trad. FA: Grant Murray 1993 FLAMBEAU 23 **** [12D] Start up the 1st 4 bolts of JAMBO. FA: Matt Murison & Alard Hüfner 1997 WORLD'S APART 26 **** [9D] A classic finger crack. The start is probably considerably trickier now and may a bolt or two. Can have lot of wasps nests! FA: Mike Cartwright 1993 THE PLAYPEN 26 *** [10D] Just to the right of the chimney-with-teeth. Retrobolted by Lobster himself .after the tree. One of the first routes here. FA: Clive Curson & Fran Botha 1993 (BB) Grant Murray JUNGLE UNCLE 20 * [Trad. One of best routes in Boven.it is now helluva popular.FA: Mike Behr 1997 MOSTLY HARMLESS 27 **** [8D] Solid at the grade! Starts just right of a very steep smooth wall next to tree roots. FA: Clive Curson 1994 RED HARVEST 19 *** [8D] 3m right of LFTL. FA: Clive Curson 1992 48 . Climb up to a tree and into a chimney. then somewhat right to chains. Great climbing . FA: Gary Lotter 1991 ATTACK OF THE KILLER TREE 17 ** [10D] The route to the left of the dead tree. FA: Andy de Klerk 1994 LIMBO 20 ** [11D] Climb the tree roots 7m right of JAMBO. go right around the tree. Cruxy. then up the wall to chains.

Recently rebolted by Darryl. mostly small wires. on the same ledge. 1993 Gaper Buttress Only a few routes but hosts one of the best 24s and possibly the best 27 in Boven. climb the face route left of the obvious corner. Use the exit to the right if you prefer walking on a less steep gradient. FA: Darryl Margetts 1993 G.27 Metres ASPECT : Perfect climbing on a chilly winter morning or summer afternoon. FA: Grant Murray 1991 AMAZON AUNT 17 *** [10D] Bolted jamcrack just right of Gretchen. Somewhat contrived finishing crux. FA: Martin Seegers & Darryl Margetts 1991 RED HERRING 20 **** [9D] A fine climb up the middle of the face. Can skip some of the bolts.GRETCHEN GOES TO NEBRASKA 21 *** [8D] From the belay bolts on the large ledge. climb the left hand crack on the face.R. then goes left after the first bolt. on the face left of the arete. FA: Darryl Margetts & Greg Devine. Dicey gear. HEIGHT: 15 . FA: Clive Curson & Barbara Marcus 1992 OUT THROUGH THE IN DOOR 22 *** [13D] Up the ACCESS ROUTE TO GRETCHEN ET AL. up the right side of the face.P.A] Climbs the line 7m right of GRETCHEN GOES TO NEBRASKA. FA: Darryl Margetts & Bernie Schumacher 1993 MJS 18 ** [11D] A hardish move through the groove near the ground. Long and pumpy. Starts up a small corner on the left of the buttress after a short scramble from the base.3 E30 20 48. Gary Lotter's IN THROUGH THE OUT DOOR probably goes out onto the arete now occupied by BONAR.0] 20 **** [14D] Fine moves up the steep left arete on positive holds. Don`t feel forced to clip ALL the bolts. Climbs are described from left to right: ATOMIC AARDVARK 24 **** [16D] A hallowed classic. APPROACH: As for the Restaurant except take the trail going steeply down just to the right before walking onto this outcrop. This path continues all the way through to Easter Face. FA: Clive Curson 1994 IN THROUGH THE OUT DOOR 21 ** [Trad. FA: Darryl Margetts & Martin Seegers 1991 FARADAY'S CAGE 17 * [10D] Starts a few meters right of RED HERRING. Great climb to practice trad leading. LE CHUCK 21 ** [9D] Starts as for RED HERRING. FA: Gary Lotter 1991 BONAR [ GPS: S25 39 11. FA: Gary Lotter 1991 (Re-BB) Andy Davies 2003 49 . especially at the start to reduce drag. at the top of the dihedral. The top of this crag is frequented by gapers and abseilers.

5 friend placement. then break up left past two bolts and a #3. FA: Gary Lotter 1992 50 . APPROACH : The easiest trail is the one coming in from Easter Face. FA: Ian Manson. FA: Clive Curson 1993 FIRST DIMENSION 23 ** [6D] Belay at LAN's first bolt. Was opened at 29. Some extra bolts made it less sporty some years back. Alternatively just keep walking right and uphill from the Gaper Buttress.climb the face to the top. FA: Richard Lord 1991 (BB) Peter Lazarus et al THE FIX 30 *** [9D] Starts from a stance 8 metres up.2B] Climb up as for TO GAPE OR NOT TO BE.15 Metres ASPECT: Some routes here are protected from the morning sun and it gets into full shade around lunch time.2 E30 20 52. FA: Clive Curson 1993 Gaper Face The place to be if you love thin face climbing. Short and bouldery. This can be accessed either by rapping or scrambling up from the right. Finish up right. FA: Clive Curson 1993 GAPER CAPER 21 *** [7D] Step off the right edge of the ledge . Climbs are described from left to right: POCKET ROCKET 24 *** [8D] 8m right of FIRST DIMENSION. Up the centre of the buttress starting from the base. Approach from the right and scramble up to belay at the first bolt. Reachy. FA: Grant Murray 1992 GAPER TRAIL 20 ** [Trad. Rap down to the first bolt. possibly best 27 in Boven but no give- away at the grade. Climb the seam. FA: Grant Murray 1992 GROCKEL MANIA 22 ** [7D] Start 2m right of the ledge.THE GIFT 27 ***** [9D] WOW! A graceful sweep of technicality. HEIGHT: 10 . Use LAN's lower- offs.2] 23 *** [6D] Starts up a diagonal seam from a ledge about 4m from the corner on the left of the face. FA: Richard Lord 1991 ACHTUNG BABY 24 *** [8D] Starts from the top of a pillar around the corner from the main Buttress. One of the harder excrutiatingly technical climbs around. FA: Clive Curson 1994 BRAIN DEAD [ GPS: S25 39 07. not a giveaway. Mike Cartwright 1992 L'IL ARETE NUMBER 21 *** [6D] About 8m right of the ZOO STATION Pillar. FA: Guy Holwill 1992 ZOO STATION 22 *** [8D] 2m right of ACHTUNG BABY. FA: Ian Guest 1993 LOUNGE LIZARD 21 ** [7D] The leftmost route on the face near the corner.

13 Metres ASPECT : Same as Gaper Face APPROACH : Walk in from the pools. HEIGHT: 8 . Continue up the diagonal line across the face to the top.8] ** (Please do not use this trail to walk all the way into the bottom of the valley below. FA: Ian Guest 1993 LAST STATION 22 ** [5D] Straight up the right hand side of the face. [ GPS: S25 39 04.6 E30 20 53. Tricky move left near the top. FA: Gary Lotter 1992 Easter Face Similar climbing to Gaper Face. Looking at the state of the scramble path.) PASSION PLAY 23 ** [5D] Start on the left almost under the tree. The crag is situated on the right hand side when walking in a Northerly direction between the Island and the campsite. Trend slightly left towards the top. A well kept trail can take you down from the clearing on route to the Island. then up the wall above past two bolts. it does not look overly well visited.R] Climb the seam on the right (wires).TO GAPE OR NOT TO BE 20 ** [Trad. The routes on this crag start by a huge boulder on your left. FA: Ian Guest 1993 CROWN OF THORNS 24 *** [6D] Start as for PASSION PLAY. Gets easier after a few moves. Monsoon Wall Some Pretoria lads stormed in to create this underrated fun crag. Walk along for about 200 metres till an obvious passage is found that seems as if it might sport some 51 . unless most visitors rap in. FA: Ian Guest 1993. After about 100m a trail ducks right down the hill**.2B. APPROACH : Follow directions to Gaper Face. Turn left before stepping onto Gaper Buttress. Your finger strength should be up after these routes. FA: Gary Lotter 1992 DECK CHAIR 25 ** [7D] Very thin moves up the blank slab 10m right of GROCKEL MANIA. Instead of going down. stay on the top of the cliff line. HEIGHT: 10 . Keep right and against the cliff face. Lots of (interesting) vegetation and trees at the base of this crag make for a shady belay place at any time.15 Metres ASPECT : Monsoon Wall faces East with some of the routes situated on the South-facing angles or corners. FA: Ian Guest 1993 GAPER GO-GO 11 * [Trad] Start below the triangular corner.

FA: Gunther Migeotte.9 E30 20 53. Don't be temted to tend left. Rachel Kelsey & Raylene Davidson 1994 HAMMER TIME 19 *** [6D] Starts up the corner just right of TF. one can still 52 . FA: Gunther Migeotte 1994 GUNG HO 24 *** [7D] Starts 2m right of the step down to a lower tier.9] that opens up to a right-tending scramble to the base.8]. FA: Glenn Harrison 1994 ANTHEM FOR DOOMED YOUTH 23 * [6D] Blank looking face 2m left of the arete. Move a bit right after reaching through the overlap. literally meaning loose (standing) head. 70m past the passage. FA: Charl du Toit 1994 RAINBOW CHILDREN 24 ** [6D] The line up overlaps on the corner 3m right of AD. 10 meters back towards camp is a small clearing [ GPS: S25 38 56. On top of this outcrop. FA: Carl Kritzenger 1996 WILD HEARTED SON 24 *** [6D] Just around the arete. FA: Glenn Harrison 1994 GLASS AND A HALF 16 ** [7D] Breaks right onto the slab from the corner crack on TEHL just before the crux layback at the second bolt. up the undercut face.0 E30 20 52. Pull through roof on the left.bouldering. which should be more popular. then up the face right of the corner on small holds. FA: Glenn Harrison 1994 THE EGO HAS LANDED 17 *** [7D] Starts just left of the tree up a corner crack 2m right of GH. You can also rap in by stepping over the passage onto the big block where some rap anchors will be found. FA: Andy Anderson 1994 PSYCHEDELIC SANDWICH 23 ** [7D] Starts 3m left of the TF corner. FA: Charl du Toit 1994 TROPICAL FRONT 20 ** [7D] Up the face left of obvious corner. Uses thin crack and arete to reach the crux overlap. FA: Charl du Toit 1994 ANGEL DUST 22 *** [6D] Up the hard-looking right-slanting crack 8m right of WHS. The locals refer to this outcrop as „Loskop‟. FA: Glenn Harrison 1994 The Island Some brilliant climbs at this area. The Island is literally an island of rock in isolation situated between the Elandskrans Mountain Resort and the N4 highway. another (easier) bushy scramble path is found that I use when I take my dog along [ GPS: S25 38 55. Stay 1m left of the HT crack. Climbs are described from left to right: ANDY'S LINE 17 *** [8D] Starts right of a ledge that is 5m off the ground on the far left. This route goes up a dark blunt arete to chains.

A stand-alone climb. FA: Mike Behr & Glenn Harrison 1995 53 .see some remains of old Kraals. The Boulevard Judging by the bushy trail. Take a right at the definite fork (320m from the pool). This opening in the vegetation [ GPS: S25 38 47.7 E30 20 34. ALTERNATIVE If you aproach form the Coven or staying in town and want to walk in. walk along a trail over open grassland heading North from the swimming pools at the campground.3] where you can tend right down the hill and overlooking FLYING IS FUN on the right and the back of the ISLAND towering out on the left. After 100m at a cairn [ GPS: S25 38 53. HEIGHT: 15 . Now keep going up the slope slightly left from the clearing then upwards along the trail to the top. on a small arete.18 Metres ASPECT : North facing. To get to the top of the Island. Bake nicely here in the winter sun or get up early in summer. APPROACH: From the gulley. just after passing RETURN TO THE WOLGAN VALLEY and ALLEGRO NON TROPPO. A wide variety of unusual moves.6 E30 20 44. Pull it.0] leading to the trail is found 40m after passing the stream on your right when you walk down the old road pass that is clearly visible from the top of Flying is Fun or the Coven. [ GPS: S25 38 45. To get onto this road from town.3] turn right towards the N4 highway and right around the boulder again. one can move around between the different sectors to avoid climbing in the sweltering sun or in the shade all the time. At this point a dirt road turns left through an old gate.2]. walk up the hill from the main street crossing towards Elandskrans. lots of climbers are missing out on a sweet little crag. the path drops down tending a bit right and then left to a clearing with ancient wall structures [ GPS: S25 38 50. Triple Tier and Sport Valley offer stunning vistas from this elevated point. Climbs are described from left to right: SURF'S UP 18 **** [11D] The left route.5]. The other climbs are 20m along. PENDING INVESTIGATION is soon found on the right.1 E30 20 51. A tar road that byspasses the main business route comes in from your right. Despite being a warm crag. Follow this just above the poorer suburb of Emgwenya till a split after „Rainbow park‟ [ GPS: S25 38 38. there is a good trail up the hill to the clearing with the ancient rock walls.7 E30 20 54. The waterfall gorge.6 E30 20 53. FA: Mike Behr & Glenn Harrison 1995 BILLABONG 21 **** [11D] Starts 5m right of SU.

Great technical climbing. Although it faces North the opposite walls make for kind coolness over lunch when you need it. FA: Barbara Curson 1994 (BB) Clive Curson 54 . If you use the block to the right.1] Climbs are described from left to right: AMAZONIAN WAR DANCE 21 *** [6D] Climbs the face and arete at the end of the first wall on the right looking down the gully (opposite LJS). FA: Clive Curson 1993 ROCK ISLAND 20 *** [8D] The seam just right of LJS. [S25 38 47. 3m from the righthand edge of the buttress. getting steadily trickier. HEGHT: 15 . the route can be 18/19. W Jenkin & C Curson 1992 (BB) Ian Guest FACE THE MUSIC 21 *** [9D] The thin face just right of Rock Island. FA: Lizette Guest 1993 RETURN TO THE WOLGAN VALLEY 18 **** [11D] The smooth-looking slab 15m down from Rock Island.25 Metres ASPECT : This gulley is mostly protected from the sun. Not too tough for the grade. Ends near the ledge on the right. This face has a thin start. hidden just left of the obvious recess. Climb the face. FA: Ian Guest 1993 LONG JOHN SILVER 20 *** [9D] About 15m down the gully on the left. Climb it to the face above. Climb the face to a small roof. APPROACH: From the point where the trail reaches the top of the Island. Unintentionally retrobolted and renamed Fantasia. except during the summer midday. Opened on natural gear in the dark ages. FA: Clive Curson.RIPCURL 23 **** [9D] Start in the corner 3m right of BILLABONG. FA: S Middlemiss. FA: Mike Behr 1996 PENDING INVESTIGATION 21 ** [8D] The rightmost route. Barbara Marcus 1992 ALLEGRO NON TROPPO 19 **** [13D] 5m right of RTTWV. FA: Glenn Harrison & Mike Behr 1995 COUNTRY FEELING 17 *** [8D] 4m right of Rip Curl's corner is a 3-4 cm crack. turn slightly rightwards. Head in a North-easterly direction for about 70m where the obvious scramble down into the gulley with climbs on both sides is found.5 E30 20 56. This reminded Clive of a crag in the Blue Mountains near Sydney. FA: Mike Behr 1996 QUICKSILVER 21 ** [7D] 6-7 metres right of Rip Curl is another boltline near a block. FA: Clive Curson 1994 The Gully A shady spot (literally) with a special ambiance and still potential for short routes.

Climbs are described from left to right: GERT‟S NINETEEN 22 ** [8D. FA: Grant Murray 1993 SPRING TIDE 23 *** [9D] Up the middle of the pillar. A touch runout on the crux -take a Friend 1.7 E30 20 54. anyone please add another top anchor. Fairly challenging at 23! About 19 if you stray too far to the left.3] 21 ***** [9D] . No shortage of bolts.R] About 10m down from Allegro Non Troppo. 25m beyond Castaway. Run out in parts.The Beach This crag is known to host some amazing „old-school‟ routes. Easy if you are comfortable at this grade. FA: Grant Murray 1993 FRIDAY 23 ** [6D] Climb the left of the pillar.5 if you're worried. Go for it! HEIGHT: 15 . A superb climb! Start 5m right of GLOIN. A good route. Very long reach to bolt through roof.22 Metres ASPECT: The perfect crag for cold winter days or when it‟s cloudy. CLOCKWORK MONKEY 25 *** [8D] Starts off the platform halfway up the wall 15m right of Castaway. FA: Ian Guest 1993 SHRINE OF THE SEA MONKEYS 26 **** [9D] Stiff crank 4m right of Old Spice. APPROACH: Continue further along down from the Gulley. Very lead out with only a single top anchor.R] Starts about 10m right of the pillar. FA: Grant Murray 1993 The next two routes start on a ledge halfway up the crag. Excellent face climbing. There is very little protection from the sun. FA: Grant Murray 1993 COMEDY WALTZ 23 *** [8D] Starts 5m right of Clockwork Monkey at the same level. FA: Gert Muller 1993 GLOIN 19 *** [9D] Climbs up to the prominent roof crack after the gully. F Huber 1994 OLD SPICE 25 **** [9D] 5m right of MD. FA: Ralf Tenbrink & R Huber 1994 55 . Brilliant. FA: Ralf Tenbrink. on the main wall. FA: Gert Muller 1992 RAIN MAN [ GPS: S25 38 45. Keep right of the third bolt. FA: Ian Guest 1993 BEACH COCKTAIL 16 *** [6D] Climb the right hand edge of the pillar. FA: Ralf Tenbrink 1994 MRS DOUBTFIRE 22 *** [8D] Crack line on the right of Rain Man. FA: Tim Hoole 1993 CASTAWAY 25 **** [9D] Starts up the arete low down. ThIS GRADE 8 scramble could be tricky with a bag on your back. FA: B Meinicke 1994 AFRICA TRIP 23 *** [9D.

8] will take you down to the „sundeck‟ where BY HOOK OR BY CROOK etc. It is recommended to pre-clip the first bolt. FA: Mike Cartwright 1992 WIZARDS 24 *** [6D] The arete with a large flattish boulder leaning against it.4 E30 20 50. when reaching the top of the Island from Elandskrans. Follow your nose till you reach some chimney. the bolts have been replaced. Climb past the last resting place of DAVE. Lower off hangers on top. It takes a while to figure it all out exactly.DASSIEBURGER 22 *** [10D. up the blunt arete. Pre-clip the first draw FA: Mark Seuring 1996 (BB) J Orrock FOREVER YOUNG 21 *** [8D] The short north-facing wall 10m left of Wizards' arete. You can enter or exit in at least 4 different ways. FA: Ralf Tenbrink 1994 Never-never Land It really is a fairy land.15 Metres ASPECT: This interesting crag is made of huge boulders that form chasms and chimneys.like cracks. The crag starts here with 2 routes. Scramble up to find more or hike around and enter via the main chimneys. Some cool spots are to be found around WIZARDS whilst the winter tanning is quite popular on the deck around BY HOOK OR BY CROOK. for climber & belayers sake. Pass the main chimneys to find another handful of routes on a “sundeck”. Careful not to stand on the bonsai growing on the wall slightly to the right! FA: Mike Cartwright & Fran Botha 1992 OVERBOARD 20 *** [Trad] Right leaning diagonal break (rock #1).R] 5m right of Africa Trip. awesome when laybacked. A one move 20. Lower off the top bolt and scramble around to get the draw. FA: Mike Cartwright 1992 56 . so read the discriptions descriptions of routes carefully. Climbs are described from left to right: OPERASIE BULLIE BIEF 23 *** [8D] A shocking-looking off-width. turn left towards town. starts. Hopefully by the time you climb this route. FA: Ian Guest 1994 THANK HEAVEN FOR LITTLE GIRLS 23 *** [5D] The steep left-leaning arete opposite the offwidth (same level). APPROACH: Continue along the trail from the Gully for about 150m till a tricky scramble is found. FA: Doug Ward & Pete Becker 1992 SLICK AND SHINE 21 ** [5D] Offwidth left of FOREVER YOUNG.. Just left of this feature a gully [ GPS: S25 38 45. HEIGHT: 10 . FA: Gert Muller 1994 WHY ME? 26 * [4D] The scoop just right of SAS. Take care on this route with only 1 top anchor. Alternatively..

FA: Gert Muller 1994 BY HOOK OR BY CROOK 18 *** [Trad] The crack in the middle of the west face. Exposed belay. Straddle the Wizards and Satin Spider aretes till it gets too wide. Uses Blunt Blade's lower off hangers. FA: Clive Curson 1993 K4 20 ** [Trad] From the ledge. FA: Mike Cartwright & Fran Botha 1992 TINKERBELL 15 *** [Trad] The crack towards the right of the west face.GUY'S SLAB 28 ** [7D] The steep and thin slab just right of Wizards' arete. FA: Unknown KEELHAUL THE RAT 17 * [Trad. FA: Ian Guest 1994 NO CRACK CROOKING 21 * [5D] Squeezed between Blunt Blade and BHOBC's crack. FA: Gert Forster 1994 DANCE OF THE SATIN SPIDER 22 *** [6D] The arete opposite Wizards. Use Wizard's lower off hangers. Climb up just right of the arete to the ledge. easier if you use the corner. A challenging and thin 22. FA: Simon Larsen 1993 DON‟T DO DISHES OR RAP WITH PIGS 15 *** [Trad] The finger locking crack right of PD. Climb grey rippled face.R] Starts 20m down the slope from SHIVER ME TIMBERS. FA: Mike Cartwright 1992 PIXIE DUST 17 *** [Trad] Immediately right. Look high past the the last bolt for lower off hangers. FA: Clive Curson 1993 K2 17 * [Trad] Starts in the middle of the face just right of K1 (facing road). climb near the right arete to reach the base of the short crack. The 2nd clip has great character. Bolt hangers on top. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Marianne Pretorius 2003 57 . FA: Mike Cartwright & L Waldman 1992 K1 16 * [Trad. FA: Paul Every 1993 (BB) Guy Holwill SKIRTING THE ISSUE 17 *** [6D] Something different. Definitely a size or flexibilty-dependent grade. A] Zigzags up the ever narrowing chimney. around the corner from TINKERBELL. Mike Loewe 1992 BLUNT BLADE 22 ** [6D] The bolted face right of the arete and 2-3 m left of the 2 prominent cracks (By Hook Or By Crook. clipping Satin Spider's bolts to that lower-off. FA: Shelley Carter 1992 (BB) Guy Holwill FAIRY FINGERS 25 *** [5D] This route is opposite Wizards with U-bolts. FA: Mike Cartwright. You can also use some bolts on NO CRACK CROOKING. Tinkerbell). FA: Clive Curson 1993 SHIVER ME TIMBERS 18 *** [7D] Starts off the left hand edge of a wide ledge (facing west) up the blunt arete about 20m right of Wizards.

across the face to the base of a thin crack. Climb this to the top. scramble up an arete low down.WISHING FOR FIFTY MORE METRES 16 * [Trad] Coming 20m down the gulley. FA:Marianne Pretorius & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2003 58 .

Using the bolts on the face to the right. Leave you wallets and phones at home. The Pasture Some pleasant albeit short climbing. some real gems. Follow a path for about 300 metres in the general direction of a huge house just across the valley. FA: C Kenmuir & G Kenmuir 1994 (BB) Gunther Migeotte GAS 18 * [4D] Stay on the arete through overlap. ask at Roc and Rope. You can rent a guard for the day.1] Climbs are described from left to right: THE CRACK 14 ** [5D] The first route is at the left of the face just south of the fence.4 E30 20 37. if you get there before the cows come home. It enjoys the morning sun. climb the crack and finish left up the pillar to the long chains. until you reach a fence line. A short traverse to the right may be needed halfway up the route. Ask the local climbers if there have been any recent problems. The Coven has a 5-star 20 and 21 and an immaculate 28 face climb. At one stage the biggest concentration of true sport climbs in South Africa were found in this seemingly unimpressive area. From here you can see the Pasture Crag on the other side of the small valley. FA: Rupert Leigh 1994 (BB) Gunther Migeotte MILKMAN 18 * [5D] Climb the face just left of the arete. APPROACH: Head North-westerly from the campsite loop road keeping just left of the trampolines.SPORT VALLEY CRAGS See Map for Restaurant Area Sport Valley is the little valley on your left when you approach the main gate of the Elandskrans Mountain Resort. [ GPS: S25 38 59. Note that the Sport Valley crags have been the site of a few muggings over the years (about 1 every couple of years). Scramble left through an opening 10m before the fence and up the other side. FA: C & G Kenmuir 1994 (BB) Gunther Migeotte 59 . Don't be fooled by appearances though. The routes here are of top quality. HEIGHT 8 . Devil in a Cauldron.10 Metres ASPECT: This crag faces east. This little valley will keep both novice and experienced climbers coming back for more. FA: Rupert Leigh 1994 (BB) Gunther Migeotte SMOKING GRASS 17 ** [5D] Climb the face just right of THE CRACK.

FA: Glenn Harrison & Jacques Holland 1994 (BB) Mike Behr COWBOYS 20 ** [5D] Starts left of. 300 metres past the hospital there is a gravel road on the left leading down the ACRA Retreat Bed and Breakfast. pull bulge. FA: J Orton 1994 (BB) Gunther Migeotte KHANYISILE 20 *** [5D] Fine balancy moves up the steep wall partway up the gully. Drive down to the house and park on a track on the right. Pull up to chains on the right. In winter this crag stays nice and warm in the afternoon after baking in the morning sun. APPROACH: Drive up the hill from Roc and Rope. using some cunning. 60 . FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 1994 IMMODIUM 22 ** [6D] Climb 3 bolts on GYPPO-GUTS. HEIGHT: 15 . FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 1994 SIR CHRISTOPHER'S CRACK 18 ** [6D] The old trad line that now has bolts thanks to Chris. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 1994 GYPPO-GUTS 21 ** [6D] Starts at a hollow-topped stone. FA: Ruth Ferreira 1994 (BB) Ruth Ferreira & Mike Behr COWABUNGA 22 *** [6D] Line of bolts through roof. FA: Mike Behr 1994 The Coven When the climbers first arrived at the Coven.0 E30 20 37.25 Metres ASPECT: Facing East with some routes South-East in case you want to escape the mid-day sun. traverse right. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 1994 COWLICK 19 *** [6D] Uses unusual holds up the pockmarked line left of the arete. Probably just a Zionist clan… anyway.2] 22 *** [5D] Cool extended boulder problem on the far right of the crag. and shares 2 bolts on STARGRAZER. Follow crack to wide roof crack. FA: Chris Wynn 1997 ABATTOIR [ GPS: S25 38 59. the candles and grafitti made them wonder what sort of ceremonies were conducted here. Exit up crack. Pull straight up from underneath the bulge. There is lots of shade at the base of most routes. FA: Glenn Harrison & Jacques Holland 1994 BB: Mike Behr STARGRAZER 22 *** [6D] Starts in crack with chockstone. this crag hosts a few amazing technical climbs.FLUFFY AND MOO COW 17 * [5D] Climb face between arete and tree.

blast through the roof to the right of the BLACK MAGIC seam and up the open book corner. It is quite possible to do the route on a 50m rope. turn left and over a huge flat rock. FA: Darryl Margetts 1996 QUEEN OF THE NIGHT 24 *** [9D] The same as POD. b) 20 (7D. FA: Jens Richter 2000 TRIED TO GO TO HEAVEN. One can first do BM to warm up on or climb in from the TTGTH traverse from the right. Step right and break through the overlap near the right end (3-4m left of the BLACK MAGIC seam). Cross over a small stream before finding an obvious gully [ GPS: S25 38 51. FA: Clive Curson Apr 1994 LUCIFER GOES TO THE GUNKS 21 ***** [12D] 10m left of the lunch spot. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2003 (BB) Deon Vermeulen DON PEDRO 27 *** [Trad] Clip first five bolts of THE PIT and move left. Pass through the stream and up the other side. If approaching from Flying is Fun crag.21 *** [16D] A retro-bolted trad adventure. FA: Clive Curson 1994 BLACK MAGIC 21 **** [13D] Clip 5 bolts up 666. At Bolt#2 up a seam on the right till this becomes too hard.2]. FA: Alison Cowley 1995 PRINCE OF DARKNESS 23 *** [9D] On the smooth brown wall at the left of the crag. Climbs are described from left to right: MAMPOER 18 *** [11D] This climb is on the trail. Scramble down here and follow a trail keeping left and along the base of the crag. walk down a trail at the base of the route Midnight Mission. Take 2-3 super long draws.Walk slightly down the hill before turning diagonally down left. Pull the roof on wild holds! FA: Clive Curson Apr 1994 MERCI MY BROTHER 26 **** [9D] A route with hangers just right of Lucifer and also sustained. FA: Clive Curson May 1994 EAT YOUR HEART OUT 25 * [11D] 5 bolts as for 666. a) 17 (6D. c) 21 61 . Climbs the buttress just before a step leading up to the gully. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2000 666 20 *** [12D] Takes the thin crackline a few meters left of the main cave.5 E30 20 39.A) Climb the PIT jamcrack just right of the cave to a stance. Take a couple of long slings. Maybe a bit easier if you're tall.. traverse right to a beautiful seam through the headwall directly above the cave. FA: Clive Curson May 1994 SEE WHAT HAPPENS 22 *** [6D] This climb starts from a u-bolt and hanger placed just right of the start of the last pitch of black magic. past some well jammed blocks through the overlap. Can be done as a 2 pitch mission. Back to the middle (bolt#3 hard to clip) then up using the crack on the left. 30 metres before the main crag is reached..A) Rail leftwards past the peapod to a stance. but deviate neither to right nor left. Reachy.

FA: Darryl Margetts 1994 HELTER SKELTER 22 ** [12D] The thin looking face just left of the corner.A) Climb the BLACK MAGIC seam to the summit. Superbly technical. 62 . FA: Gunther Migeotte May 1994 The Ivory Towers Some climbs here are slightly exposed with a nice view over the valley below. Climb the crack to lower-offs at a ledge. Pull the overlap and continue up the slab above to chains. Takes the right hand edge of the eye-catching face.Direct start bolted by A. Or just do it as one pitch with long slings and a 50m rope.. Pedley. FA: Jens Richter 2003. FA: Glenn Harrison 1994 SHOUT AT THE DEVIL 20 ***** [12D] Phenomenal climbing on the steep face 6m right of the BBGMG corner. FA: Clive Curson 1994 THE PIT 18 *** [6D] The first pitch of TRIED TO GO TO HEAVEN. A bolted trad-like classic. FA: Jens Richter 2003 DEVIL IN A CAULDRON [ GPS: S25 38 49. Don't blow the 3rd clip. FA: Darryl Margetts April 1994 (BB) Clive Curson HOWLING IN HELL 21 *** [12D] The left-facing corner and roof crack. FA: Darryl Margetts. Expect to get your ropes damp in the wet season. Opened at 30.6 E30 20 38. FA: Darryl Margetts 1994 ROUTE OF ALL EVIL 10 *** [12D] This climbs the root-infested gully 10m to the right of DD. doesn‟t change the grade but better. Shares chains with DEVIL'S DISCIPLE.(6D..! Needs an ascent. FA: Clive & Barbara Curson 1994 SCREAMING DEMONS 24 **** [10D] The blunt arete just right of BBGMG. FA: Darryl Margetts & Andrew Lynch (BB) Clive Curson & Darryl Margetts 1994 DEVIL'S DISCIPLE 19 ** [9D] Starts just right of DEVIL'S CONCUBINE up a vague corner. FA: Clive Curson & Cathy O'Dowd 1994 HOWLING IN HADES 23 *** [13D] The right hand variation after the roof.. Fingery. One move.9] 28 **** [10D] A fantastic line. Starts up God of Small things then moves left then up on very small holds. FA: Clive Curson 1994 MAD COW 23 * [9D] Very height dependent. Greg Devine 1995 A LA CARTE 32 ***. FA: Clive Curson 1994 BABIES' BLOOD GIVES ME GAS 18 **** [11D] The open book. Good warm up route. Opened at 30. More trad stuff. one star! FA: Darryl Margetts 1996 DEVIL'S CONCUBINE 16 ** [7D] Starts 5m right of the HOWLING IN HADES corner. GOD OF SMALL THINGS 31 **** [12D] Takes the line up the middle of the face on small holds.

FA: Mike Behr 1994 The Other Side A good crag to escape to if the masses have invaded Flying is Fun. going right will take you to the Island. APPROACH: Continue along to the right of the COVEN. Sort of runout at the crux. Take a left at the first fork (320m from the pool). The next turnoff to your right.25 Metres ASPECT: This crag faces East. A much more pleasant walk is to exit Flying is Fun on the normal left gulley and start heading back towards the resort on the well defined path. North and West.1 E30 20 39. This means you can just move along to escape the heat or stay out of the chimneys in winter. About 2m left of the arete on the middle tower. BOLTS FROM HELL 18 *** [10D. HEIGHT: 15 . take the trail heading North from the campground swimming pools towards Flying is Fun Crag.R] 45m along from the last routes of the Coven. The bases of most routes here are not as flat and open as you might have seen on other crags. Climb the South-East face of the North Tower. Up to lower-offs. but this trail is quite loose and dangerous in places. FA: Mike Behr 1994 POSSESSED 19 *** [6D] Starts 2m up the gulley. Climb to lower-offs.20 Metres ASPECT : Faces East with shade at the base of some routes. rail left just around the corner.7] Stay on the trail starting on the right side of this gully and cutting back left soon till you reach the crag on the left. APPROACH: To get to this re-discovered crag.HEIGHT: 15 . FA: Mike Behr 1994 SALEM 19 *** [8D] Starts in the corner right of the arete.6] 19 **** [9D] Climbs the fine line on the Northern face of the North Tower. It might be tempting to stroll along from Flying is Fun along the base. FA: Antoinette Lessing 1994 (BB) Charl du Toit 63 . After about 50 m along over some blocks these towers lie with fun moderate climbing. (430m from the pools) goes down an obvious shallow gully. Climbs are described from left to right: SPOOKS IN THE CLOSET 19 ** [7D] Goes up the technical face left of the pillar in the descent gully. After clipping the 2nd bolt. [ GPS: S25 38 52.8 E30 20 46. FA: Mike Behr 1994 BAD OMEN 19 ** [5D] Climb 2m right of the last route to the same lower-offs. FA: Ruth Ferreira 1994 (BB) Mike Behr THE EXORCIST [ GPS: S25 38 48. FA: Mike Behr 1994 HOT STUFF 18 *** [9D] Follow path 15m down.

A very substantial 24? FA: Glenn Harrison 1994 WEIGH-LESS CRACK 14 *** [7D] On the northern side of the pinnacle is a large crack a thin person will fit into. Note: A toilet brush was used to clean both UM and TB and its name is no reflection on how one climbs the route.URIEL'S MACHINE 13 *** [9D] The YUDUVUDU pillar and the main wall form a WIDE chimney. As a variation. FA: E van der Poel & H Steinmann 2001 TOILET BRUSH 12 ** [8D] Two meters to the right of URIEL'S MACHINE. FA: Gary Lotter 1991 64 . the route can be climbed outside the crack. Climb the crack up the slab and exit left. This goes up the arete to the left. and around the corner. Layback up a zig-zag crack directly beneath the chockstone. FA: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann Dec 2001 TEA FOR TWO 16 *** [7D] A face to the right and around the corner from BLOKKIES JOUBERT. Two thirds up the chimney is a large chockstone. starting in a large crack left of the arete. FA: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann Dec 2001 CURSE OF THE ARMADILLO 14 ** [Trad] About 40m left of the MIXER MINCER SHREDDER LIQUIDIZER wall. FA: E van der Poel & H Steinmann 2001 YUDUVUDU 25 **** [8D] Technical moves up the pillar in the descent gully. The crux is getting past the bulge. FA: Gary Lotter 1991 MIXER MINCER SHREDDER LIQUIDIZER 27 *** [8D The bolt line up a prominent steep slab with yellow lichen to anchors.2B] Locate the MIXER MINCER SHREDDER LIQUIDIZER slab (widish crack to the right). has some hollow rock and is included in this guide mainly because of the name. It needs a lot of gear. FA: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann Sep 2002 BLOKKIES JOUBERT 17 *** [10D] The western side of the pinnacle (facing town) has a series of blocky ledges. Variation: Climb the route as a chimney . FA: Gary Lotter 1991 OF HERBS AND STEWED RABBIT 22 ** [Trad. FA: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann Dec 2001 2ND ANNIVERSARY 15 ** [7D] 2m right of TEA FOR TWO. Take your fingers with the thick skin. FA: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann Sep 2002 VOYAGER 14 *** [11D] 3m right of FREQUENT FLYER on the same face. FA: Grant Murray 1992 SHORT CUT TO MUSHROOMS 20 ** [Trad] Climb the crack right of MIXER MINCER SHREDDER LIQUIDIZER. Starts directly beneath a small overhang five meters up.somewhat easier. Starts at and then keeps left of a widening crack. Follow this crack to the top. FA: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann Dec 2001 FREQUENT FLYER 17 *** [9D] 6m right of WEIGH-LESS CRACK is a line going through a bulge in the face. The route follows a series of horizontal and vertical cracks.

A classic! FA: Clive Curson 1991 TEXAS CHAINSAW MASSACRE 12 *** [8D] Takes in the hand crack 4m right of the VOCD. FA: Clive Curson 1991 FLY FOR LIFE 13 *** [7D] The recess just right. FA: Clive Curson 1991 FLOATING ON THE STORM 16 ** [9D] Crackline just right of MM.0 E30 20 43.9] If you have dogs or non-climbing friends there is a less defined path about 70m to the left when you arrive at the cliff edge. Another option is to follow directions towards the Pasture. Shares 3 bolts with MRI. FA: Clive Curson 1991 DWARF TOSSING 22 *** [7D] The slab just right of the arete.Flying Is Fun This crag offers fantastic sustained easy and moderate climbs. FA: Clive Curson 1992 RIP 21 *** [8D] The prominent crackline. Head for the arete after the 4th bolt. APROACH: Walk along the trail over open grassland heading North from the swimming pools at the campground. Continue another 240m till a cliff edge from where the Coven can be seen on the other side of the valley. Going straight up the face is trickier. If only it was a bit taller… HEIGHT: 8 . [ GPS: S25 38 52. Probably 18 if you're short. going right will take you to the Island.15 Metres ASPECT: This crag thankfully faces North-West. Walk down this (Sport Valley) till a huge table top flat rock is reached after 250m. Climbs are described from left to right: VISIONS OF COSMIC DOOM [ GPS: S25 38 52. FA: Clive Curson 1992 65 . Fine line but there is a great temptation to step right onto THERMAL'S block at the crux. Trend back left to lower-off. The belayer is mostly in the shade on flat ground. using the tree or traversing in under the roof to start.0 E30 20 43. Turn right and up a trail just after this flat rock. Uses the lower offs to the left or right. making it cool in the mornings and getting some sun from the late morning onwards. Stay on a trail in the bottom of the little valley below the Pasture.height dependent. FA: Clive Curson 1993 MIDNIGHT MISSION 18 **** [9D] The seam 2m right of RIP. Turn right for 15m till a scramble path down is found to the base. Climb only the seam for a somewhat more specific exercise. FA: Clive Curson 1991 RIP DIRECT 23 **** [8D] Direct start is 23/24 . Can be awkward going right past the roof without technique. FA: Clive Curson 1991 MRI 11 ** [8D] The wide crack just right of TCM. Take a left at the definite fork (320m from the pool). using anything.5] 9 **** [7D] The arete at the bottom of the access gully.

FA: Clive Curson 1991 BLOOD IN THE DUST 13 ** [9D] Starts in the recess just right of THERMAL/FOTS. FA: Clive Curson 1992 BLOOD TRANSFUSION 20 *** [9D] Start up DYING TO FLY. FA: Clive Curson 1991 RECOVERY ROOM [7D] The jamcrack/layback in the corner. Climb this. Finishes up the face on the left wall. using 5 bolts on FOTS. There is a lot of climbing around the 4th bolt. FA: Clive Curson 1991 GREATEST DOCTOR IN THE UNIVERSE 21 *** [9D] Start up FROZEN FLESH'S crack. Go out right to STONE COLD'S finish. Pull through to a ledge. Continue up the recess and arete above.7] 17 **** [6D] The beautiful fingercrack 4m left of the corner.more technical but easier than DTF. FA: Clive Curson 1995 HIGH NOON 21 **** [7D] 4m right of the ledge edge. FA: Clive Curson 1991 BRIDGET GOES TO CASUALTY 15 ** [5D] The short crack 3m right of RECOVERY ROOM'S corner.9 E30 20 42. FA: Clive Curson 1992 DYING TO FLY 20 *** [8D] The first right leaning crack off the ledge. FA: Clive Curson & Grant Murray 1991 THREE BLIND MICE 20 *** [8D] The other right leaning crack . FA: Clive Curson 1992 THE CARVING KNIFE 20 *** [9D] From the base of the THREE BLIND MICE crack. FA: Clive Curson 1991 STONE COLD 15 ** [9D] Takes the slanting crack just right of BITD. FA: Clive Curson 1992 BOLTED BONES [ GPS: S25 38 52. Probably 19 if you work out the moves quickly.the first 5m are off-balance. Harder for midgets. FA: Clive Curson 1991 DOA 19 *** [8D] The fierce-looking handcrack. Start off a little ledge. A bouldery move to gain the slab.THERMAL 11 *** [9D] The easiest break in this area. Step right from the ledge . follow the crack from ground level. about 6m right of DOA. Climb the face straight above. move diagonally right on the face to the 3rd bolt. joining THREE BLIND MICE to the top. Climb straight up. FA: Clive Curson & Barbara Marcus 1992 FROZEN FLESH 24 **** [8D] Follows the crackline right of the arete into a shallow corner. Move up left to climb the face just right of the arete. Move 2m left at half height to a vague seam. FA: Clive Curson 1993 66 . Continue up the arete and out right to the loweroffs at the high point. Step back left to FOTS lower-offs after surmounting the block. Up the corner to a recess. A bit reachy. FA: Clive Curson & Grant Murray 1991 SEE HOW THEY RUN 21 *** [9D] This is the direct start to THREE BLIND MICE. Finish at the same lower-offs as STONE COLD.

FA: Clive Curson 1993 FLY BY NIGHT 14 * [6D] Face move at left hand bolt line. FA: Clive Curson 1991 BOLDER PROBLEM 23 *** [5D] The steep face on the boulder behind BRIDGET CLIMBS AGAIN. Climb recess above. The first route as you turn the corner to the left of LES TROIS MEUFS. and the same bolts throughout. FA: Alwyn Venter 2001 LES TROIS MEUFS 12 *** [5D] "The three babes": To the right behind BOLDER PROBLEM is another block. Climb the crack. FA: Clive Curson 1993 BRIDGET CLIMBS AGAIN 8 * [6D] Using the corner where needed and the same bolts. Opened by one of the local Police officers. Uses BCA's bolts.FLY BY DAY 13 * [6D] On face holds 1m left of FLY BY NIGHT. (Sandbagged and opened at 18!) FA: Mike Cartwright 1992 (BB) Clive Curson INSPEKTEUR BLIKSEM NEER 15 *** [6D] “Inspector takes a big fall”. FA: Johan Olivier & Deon Vermeulen 2003 67 . FA: Clive Curson 1991 BRIDGET FLIES AGAIN 13 * [6D] Face move 2m right of FBN avoiding the corner. uses same recess in the upper reaches. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2001 PIETER STYWE SERSANT 12 *** [5D] The face right of the crack in the middle of the boulder.

68 . but to climb on the crags that encircle it is much more exhilarating! There are a number of crags in this area.THE WATERFALL CRAGS Waterval Boven is named as it is above the waterfall…and the waterfall is pretty damn impressive! To look at it from the tourist view-point is great. with a stack of classic „atmospheric‟ sport and trad pitches.

69 .

abseil from one of 2 sets of anchors on this ledge system. Continue underneath the main N4 highway. FA: Peter Lazarus & Tessa Little 2002 70 . getting some rays of sun in the mornings during summer months.C. posters and almanacs. Most routes require that you abseil onto a belay stance. At the T-junction turn right and go down the hill into the township (Emgwenya). drive downhill towards the railway.A wall.8]. Then walk uphill until you can walk into a landslide gully which leads up to a pleasant but long gully (WB gully) on the left.2 E30 20 40. turn left at the T-juntion. Abseil to a bolted stance 20m down and climb back out. as well as on book covers. then up a loose scree path to the long WB gully . HEIGHT: 20 . Pictures of the wall have appeared in most of the famous climbing magazines in the world. Just before reaching the waterworks. leading back up to the railway. walk towards the cliff top and find the correct abseil point. Walk 100 m along the railway then back up on the left bank to the parking. This gives one the opportunity to brush dust or excess chalk off routes.R. through the trees to the ground. The abseil points are not more than 30 metres from this point. This takes one over a concrete bridge. Wall Images of ACRA wall have probably sold the idea of climbing in South Africa to more climbers than any other single face in the country. about 650m along. To exit the crag. turn right and right again at the forks.scramble out at grade 12 or so! APPROACH : Ask if you can be dropped off here by the friendly staff at Roc 'n Rope Adventures or one of the locals! It only takes 25 minutes to walk or a 5 minute drive from town but it‟s very easy to get lost! From Roc & Rope. locked vehicles have been broken into here. The climbing is long. The parking place is the dead end just above the drop off on top of the Elands Falls [ GPS: S25 38 04. The abseil for climbs between Sorcery and You Too Brutus is about 20 m left in a small chimney at the top of the crag. sustained.9]. Do not leave any bags or valuables in the car. A 60m rope is needed to escape from the stance if you do get stuck. Climbs are described from left to right: URISK THE RUSTIC BROWNIE 23 *** [11D] An incredible position. This abseil takes you to some stepped ledges about 15 metres above the forest floor. beside the waterfall.A. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2000 (BB Alan Jarvis) BEFORE THE INNER CHILD 24 *** [Trad] The face left of the arete. with awesome views in an exposed location..The A. but also gives the routes an adventurous feel. turn left down (the second) steep passable dirt road [ GPS: S25 38 11.C. This is the first line to the right when looking at the waterfall. You can scramble along these ledges easily to get to the base of each of the climbs.1 E30 20 29.R. To access the A.30 Metres ASPECT: Southeast facing. Escaping from the base of some of these climbs can be done by abseiling further down through the trees. and scrambling right.

JITTERBUG PERFUME 25 *** [Trad. APPROACH: Park as for ACRA Wall. Ian Manson 1992 71 .1] LOST TRACK 21 * [6D] From the WB graffiti. walk back along the dirt road until a small trail after about 20m leads down to the railway. FA:Grant Murray.R. head slightly right into the obvious break.2 E30 20 43. Starting just left of the arete. climb the left hand line to chains. Scramble 5 m down the gulley to belay chains with the routes on your left. An awesome climb in an awesome place.. FA: Gary Lotter 1991 A MIXTURE OF FRAILTIES 25 *** [10D] Start at chains on the ledge right of the corner. From the chains at the left edge of the ledge. The 2 existing bolts are not well placed (this & the last 2 routes will hopefully be retrobolted one day soon). with the wind howling through the gap in the mouth of the dark tunnel making one feel unwanted at this crag. It is possible to access by rapping in from the tree on top. a second ascent of this climb has not been made. Rebolted in 2008. Top out just right of the crack. about 4m right of the first corner. this route is not as good as it looks. The WB Gully is now on your right. Tie into the rap chains to belay on these two routes.no bolts. climb it. Quite runout but wonderful. Then it gets harder… FA: Grant Murray 1991 YOU TOO BRUTUS 26 **** [12D] From the chains climb up and thinly right. we think. often found at the stance. Power moves take you steeply left and up the headwall. From the parking. HEIGHT: 15 Metres ASPECT: Same as for ACRA Wall. [ GPS: S25 38 04. Go through the overlaps to the chains. A] The corner. Was opened at 27. protection is sparse! FA: Mike Cartwright 1991 SATAN'S TEMPLE 31 ***** [14D] Starts just right of the arete from a great ledge. FA: Gary Lotter 1991 SOMETHING ESOTERIC 23 ***** [9D] The next crack right of SBM. Take a plastic bag and an an old cloth to wipe baboon droppings etc. Apart from the photo potential. cold in winter. Keep going..X.famous for the photo opportunity with the waterfall in the background. FA: Grant Murray 1991 SCREAMING BLUE MESSIAH 26 **** [Trad. FA: Stefan Glowacz 1995 (BB Grant Murray) UNLIMITED POWER 28 **** [10D] Starts from the chains on the left of the ledge. FA: Gary Lotter 1991 on trad.SORCERY 25 **** [Trad. 2B. Climb up easy-ish ground heading a bit left. Zap up to the chains.A] Trad line . Take care. Despite some infrequent attempts.A] Awesome line . FA: Grant Murray 1992 WB Wall Can you guess what WB stands for!? Historically this has been an eerie crag. Follow the railway track to the mouth of the train tunnel.. Involves a long dyno and a very fingery headwall.

BOER SKIET DIEF DOOD 17 *** [8D] Clip the first bolt on LT, then traverse up to the right hand line.
Translation : “Farmer shoots thief dead.” This was a newspaper headline that day! FA: Ian Manson,
Grant Murray 1992

The Last Crag of the Century
Routes here are up to 35 metres long and the quality of the climbing is clearly imported from another
solar system, several 5-star routes. Long routes will sometimes have chains halfway up so that you can
lower off twice to get down.

HEIGHT: 20 - 35 Metres

ASPECT: Also South facing with the left side of the crag in morning shade during summer and the right
side catching shade in the afternoon. There are some interesting corners and cracks here with
phenomenal photographic potential.

APPROACH : Several options exist but the best is to park as for ACRA then access as for the WB wall,
then abseil (or scramble) down the WB gully. At the base of the gully, walk along the path along the base
of the cliffs until you see the climbs.

Climbs are described from left to right:

SPORT CLIMBING IS DEAD 18 *** [Trad] An obvious crack 20 m right of the WB gully. The route is about
35m long. FA: Volker Schweinbenz & Clinton Whaits 1999

ELECTRIC AVENUE- Pitch 1 17 ** [9D] About 40m right of SCID. A few steepish moves up to the belay
ledge and the start of the next pitch. FA: Glenn Harrison 2000

ELECTRIC AVENUE - Pitch 2 23 *** [9D] Continue from the ledge with rap anchors onto the top section
or break it into 2 pitches. FA: Glenn Harrison 2000

UNPLUGGED AVENUE 14 ** [Trad,A] Climb the thin crack to the right of ELECTRIC AVENUE to the ledge
at the end of EA's first pitch. FA: Herman van Zyl, Karen Stegmann & Hendrik Neethling 2009

ENDLESS SUMMER 22 ***** [14D] Technical (reachy) moves on good holds. It gets harder if you don't
move out right after the last bolt. An excellent and long 30+m route. FA: Glenn Harrison 1999

SUPERFLY 23 ***** [17D] The journey just right of ES. Also 30+m route. FA: Glenn Harrison 2000

GOOD TIMES 23 **** [17D] Technical face climbing with a thin crux. The route is fairly sustained too.
This climb is 30+m long, be prepared to top out or bring an extra rope. FA: Glenn Harrison 1999

FUDGE BEATS BURFEE 25 ** [10D] Goes powerfully through the left of the undercut sections halfway up
the face. Watch out for potentially loose rocks! FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2000

MONKEY PUZZLE 28 *** [11D] Climb straight up from the third bolt of FUDGE BEATS BURFEE through a
reachy roof section. Harder for short people. Tie a knot in the end of your rope! FA: Jens Richter 2005

72

AS THE WORLD DISAPPEARS 26 ***** [13D] Up the face then leftward through the overlap to a
headwall that keeps on coming. 30+m route, steep and sustained with great photo opportunities. FA:
Volker Schweinbenz 1999

CAFFEINE JITTERS 13 ** Was a trad climb, rebolted recently. Scramble up the bushy slab just right of
'ATWD' and head for the two protruding trees, then climb the awesome fist sized crack to the top. The
climb can be done in a single pitch. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Chris Jansen 2001

TRIPPIN' ON LIFE 24 *** [15D] The long face just left of CJ. FA: Jens Richter (BB) Glenn Harrison 2000

TO CRACK OR NOT TO CRACK 20 *** [Trad] pitch 20*** 20m Start on the corner below the obvious
layback crack left of 'Who's Your Daddy'. Climb out underneath the undercut flake using RP's or huge
cams and up to the obvious ledge. Pitch 15*** 12m Continue straight to the top. Can be done in a single
pitch. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Chris Jansen 2001

WHO'S YOUR DADDY? 19 ***** [12D] A nice long warm-up!? One of best 19‟s in Boven. FA: Alex Janse
van Rensburg 1999 (BB Dino Santoro)

THE THREE MOSQUITOS 21 **** [18D] Just left of the big corner. A little crack, face and roof climbing.
You can top out on this route and hike down along the trail back West towards the mouth of the tunnel.
So end your day with this line to avoid the scrambles! FA: Thulani Mazibuko 1999

CHAKALAKA 20 **** [12D] Break out right after the third bolt of THE THREE MOSQUITOES. FA: Bine
Tittel 2005

UNTERWEGS NACH HAUS 24 *** [13D] Just right of the arete, 30+m long. so slightly run out!! FA: Volker
Schweinbenz 1999

WISH YOU WERE HERE 23 *** [13D] Share the first couple of bolts with UH, then out right. Ever so
slightly run out!! FA: Volker Schweinbenz 1999

NATURE OF BEING 21 *** [9D,R] Ever so slightly run out!!! Take a #0 and #0.5 Friend plus a #1 rock for in
case you need it. FA: Volker Schweinbenz 1999

TRANSMUTATION 22 **** [Trad] About 50m left of Heck, Tick. The route follows the crack that breaks
the large red face and through a roof at 25m. Tend right into the recess just above and step out to the
top. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Mark Seuring 2003

ALONG FOR THE RIDE 21 *** [Trad] Start at large flaring offwidth crack. Climb the crack till it ends and
move left to a tree stance. Step out left and climb crack till roof and rail left 2 meters. Pull through break
and up headwall. Take small gear. FA: Alard Hüfner, Mark Seuring & Douard le Roux 2003

HECK, TICK 16 **** [Trad] Starts below on an obvious corner capped by large roofs 15m above. Climb
the corner and bypass the roofs on the left, then straight up the head wall. FA: Mark Seuring & Gustav
Janse van Rensburg 2003

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STATIC SCAMPERING 18 *** [Trad] Climb the corner 2m left of DFADS; bypass overhang on left and
scamper up slab through overlap to top. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Mark Seuring 2003

DUST FROM A DISTANT SUN 19 *** [Trad] Starts 15m left of FTL. Climb short overhanging crack. Step
1m right and pull through roof. Climb slab tending slightly left to good abseil tree. (Intricate gear
placements). FA: Mark Seuring & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2003

FOLLOW THE LIGHT 25 *** [Trad] Coming from the East End, 20m from the tunnel mouth, climb the
obvious roof crack by the big tree. From the halfway ledge climb the off-width to the top. FA: Mark
Seuring & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2003

The East End
A good crag to do some trainspotting...

HEIGHT: 20 Metres

ASPECT : This crag faces due east and has lots of shade at the base. The quality of the rock is actually
better than it appears on face value. Lots of potential for new routes exist.

APPROACH : Park as for ACRA wall, walk down to the railway, turn right along it in an Easterly direction.
Walk through the tunnel (there is enough space on the side to miss oncoming trains!). When you exit
this 384m long tunnel, the EAST END is found on the left after crossing another railway line coming out
of the 461m tunnel.

TRAIN MASSACRE [ GPS: S25 38 00.1 E30 20 57.0] 25 *** [8D] From the 461m long train tunnel, walk up
10m to find the first bolt. FA: Gary Lotter 1991

BOIPATONG 19 *** [Trad] 6m right of the fence (right of TM). Up to a break, up face, out left onto a
slab, out right (#1 rock behind flake) up to roof, traverse right and up to a ledge. Ab off tree 15m right.
FA: M Loewe & S Hofmeyr 1992

Toon Town
After cars got broken into here in the early nineties, we stopped liking the crag despite some stunning
lines of which many are still trad classics and some bolted ones too. The potential here (also behind it on
the other side of the ridge) is largely untapped and one looks down into the valley with the falls lurking
constantly behind you when you climb.

HEIGHT: 12 - 25 Metres

ASPECT: One of the few West facing crags, making summer mornings great for escaping the heat.
Alternatively come here on cold winter afternoons. Don't be lazy, slog up the hill now!

APPROACH : Walk all along the railway from the Last Crag of the Century. The walk is a bit long. To drive
here, get back on the main road to Nelspruit. 1,7km after exiting the tunnel, a dirt road turns left and
crosses the Elands river. Always stay left on this up the hill, back in the direction of the waterfall until a

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parking place is reached after a right bend. This road is known not to always be in good condition. A
pick-up or 4x4 may be needed.

From the parking, cross the railway track and walk up the hill on feint paths. [ GPS: S25 38 18.9 E30 21
02.8]. On the left is an impressive face with a great fingercrack, MANNENBURG. The next West face to
the left has a seam, THE COLOR PURPLE bounded by 2 wider cracks. Most of these routes are trad but
there are a few sport lines and plenty potential for more bolted lines.

Climbs are described from left to right:

TOPLESS SKATEBOARD NUN 23 ** [Trad] About 50m left of AFRICAN ODYSSEY, are some big roofs
halfway up the crag. Start up the obvious crack below these and traverse left on the ledge until you are
below the left hand end of the roof. Climb the crack to the roof. Pull through the cubby hole onto the
slab (crux needs friend #and follow the crack to the top. FA: A Russel-Boulton 1992

UNDER A CHOKING SUN 19 *** [Trad,R] 4m right of TSN. Up orange face moving right to ledges and up a
big shallow corner (crux) to grassy ledge. Finish up crack on right. Rather gearless! FA: M Loewe, A Lainis
1992

AFRICAN ODYSSEY 25 *** [13D] Starting towards the left, follow the bolts into the centre of the face,
then up a crack to finish. Take your thinnest fingers. FA: Andrew Lainis 1992

LITTLE MAN'S COMPLEX 22 ** [Trad,2B,TA] Climb the corner, moving left onto the slab and up to the
coldshuts. FA: M Loewe 1992

RACHEL AND REBECCA 18 *** [Trad] The short but good-looking corner left of the arete project. FA: C
Curson, B Marcus & L Waldman 1992

POES IN BOOTS 26 * [Trad,3B,TA,R] Climb the middle of the wall 2.5m right of the an open project. 30m
right of AFRICAN ODYSSEY. The 3rd clip is tricky, a gripper, clipper, whipper - ground fall. Use the chains
on the arete. FA: Brett Clarke 1992

NIGHT OF THE CRASH TEST DUMMIES 17 ** [Trad] The biggest crack line on the left. Traverse slightly
right at the top to exit. FA: A Russel-Boulton 1991

THE COLOUR PURPLE 23 **** [Trad] On the west-facing wall to the right are 3 cracks. The left one goes
at about 15. The seam in the middle is this one. Vertical but tricky - may be 22 for tall dudes. FA: Jeremy
Colenso & Ian Manson 1991

ECCENTRICA GALLUMBITZ 20 *** [Trad] The wider crack just to the right. FA: Jeremy Colenso & Ian
Manson 1991

DAY OF DECIMATION 26 *** [Trad,3B,TA]… in a crazy wild place. The arete right of the 3 cracks.
Permission has been granted for retro-bolting! FA: Stewart Middlemiss 1992

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then up right until able to go up and back leftwards to lower offs near the arete. Climb the crack. Take along a #2 friend. FA: Clive Curson 1992 MANNENBURG 25 **** [Trad] Start 4m right of the corner. This route is the left one. FA: A Russel-Boulton 1992 76 . to exit past hollow flakes. turn this and climb the crack to the top. FA: A Russel-Boulton 1991 ROGER STRIKES BACK 24 *** [9D] Starts 6m left of the offwidth. FA: Clive Curson 1992 DEATH BY BANDA 23 **** [Trad] Climb the obvious off-width crack as one enters the Happy Acres Cave. opposite DEATH BY BANDA.BLACK PLANET 20 *** [Trad] Around the arete to the right of the 3 cracks are 2 subsiduary corners. DBB just left of HAPPY ACRES CAVE. Start below the large open book on the boulder. The slab with two bolts right of the big chimney crack. opposite the cave.slanting crack. FA: Clive Curson & Barbara Marcus 1992 DARK STAR 20 * [Trad] pitch 20 Climb the right corner. FA: Kohle 1993 SLANTING CRACK 14 * [Trad] Climb the rightward slanting crack. Traverse 2m left and up the diagonal crack. Go thinly up a seam. Start in a small corner 5m right of the edge of the boulder. FA: German Raiders 1993 WHISTLE STOP 17 * [Trad] On railway side of boulder. obvious layback crack. Move back right to the corner. The right hand one is not too pleasant (grade . THE LIGHTNESS OF BEING 25 *** [5D] The line of ring bolts to the right of the crack. A fighting pitch of considerable merit and suitable for the whole family. on the left of the Happy Acre Boulder.22/23). FA: Gordon Erens & Russ Dodding 1992 MINNIE MOUSE‟s MENOPAUSE 22 *** [Trad. Starts just right of the short. Climb past a roof to a ledge at 5m. Take along 4 friends in the range #3. climb the short face to below the roof. FA: Unknown TRAMPLEPATH 20 ** [5D] Another line of bolts. FA: A Russel- Boulton 1992 CHAMPION BARBED-WIRE HURDLER 19 * [Trad] Located in the 'room' behind Happy Acres Boulder. FA: Stewart Middlemiss & C Lomax 1992 THE IMMACULATE MISCONCEPTION 21 * [Trad] Climb the crack line inside the cave. FA: Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens 1992 THOMPSON & THOMPSON 16 * [Trad] Situated on the Happy Acres Boulder.5 to #4.2B] On the south face of the boulder. Pitch 23 Optional pitch but not recommended. FA: Ian Manson & R Uken 1992 WHITE ARSES 17 ** [4D] Behind the approach boulders 10m left of the Happy Acres Block. Exiting left. This is the line of ring bolts to the left of the obvious right. FA: Unknown. FA: M Jager 1993 KIMOSABE THE MUSIC'S STARTING 15 ** [Trad] A finger crack up the on-balance wall. below the obvious broad crack line.

HEIGHT: 15 . FA: G Laurens. FA: G Laurens & Dave Walden 1993 SLOTH ON THE LOOSE 22 ** [Trad] The object is the nice looking headwall up on the right. Move right towards the arete to the broken crack half way up. just hike around to the right [ GPS: S25 38 26. then straight up. Start a few metres right of MOON DREAMER and climb up to the headwall.9].FRED'S CORNFLAKE COLLECTION 14 ** [Trad] Climb the big flake line right of MMM. FA: Ian Guest 1992 The Wild Side After doing all the other routes in Waterval Boven. Seam on left.2 E30 21 06. The obvious flake line left of the chimney. FA: A Russel- Boulton 1992 PINK PANTHER SE PILLAR 17 * [Trad] The climb follows the overhanging crack up the back of the pillar. long crack on right.8 E30 21 00. Next to this you may find this climb. APPROACH: As for Toon Town. Around the corner to the East lies great potential for new routing.7]. FA: A Russel-Boulton & A Gillet 1992 IT'S NO BULLDOG 20 *** [Trad] The obvious thin crack line left of SUTBID. Climb the line just right of the recess finishing up the left leaning break.3] 18 *** [Trad] Start a few metres right of EASY STREET and climb the right break on the prominent wall. FA: A Gillet. FA: G Laurens. Dave Walden & R van Wyk 1993 MOON DREAMER 20 ** [Trad] On the next wall to the right.20 Metres ASPECT: Facing South and therefore nice and shady in Winter. opposite SUTBID. FA: A Russel-Boulton 1992 DOPEY DOES DE AAR 16 * [Trad] Still no sign of Dopey. A Russel-Boulton 1992 KILL THE WABBIT 14 * [Trad] Climb the on-balance wall right of FCC.9 E30 21 05. Dave Walden & R van Wyk 1993 FLIES ON THE BACK OF A COW [ GPS: S25 38 25. FA: G Laurens & F van der Linder 1992 PALM IT OFF 24 ** [8D] Right of the BART MAN flake is a short pillar against the face. Somewhere out there does he lurk. FA: A Gillet & A Russel-Boulton 1992 THE BART MAN 18 **** [Trad] Situated on the main wall on the south side of the Happy Acres Boulder. There is also an easy walk up from the Island side of the hill [ GPS: S25 38 28. FA: Ian Guest 1992 SOMETHING UNDER THE BED IS DROOLING 20 ** [Trad] The short crack behind the pinnacle. FA: G Laurens & Dave Walden 1993 77 . EASY STREET 16 ** [Trad] Start from the cave/recess and climb the left break on the prominent wall. this crag with awesome views of some other (better) crags will be waiting. Follow the neat line to the top.

Walk to the cliff edge. There is some potential here. Exits up left groove/ chimney.5 E30 20 48. exit on slab to right. Follow this road. scramble down a little to a large fig tree. past some pig sties to a parking area by some large Aloes. After another 100 metres. To escape the sun.ZASM Tunnel entrance . 15m left of the tunnel. TREE LOVE 17 *** [Trad] From the East entrance.9] 18 *** [Trad] On the far left of the crag.25 Metres ASPECT: East facing with morning sun. FA: Volker Schweinbenz & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 1999 78 . HEIGHT: 15 . Climb the tangle of overhanging roots to a stance. a national monument. You will arrive close to Wizard Of Oz and The Gutter. hike towards the old ZASM tunnel. You need to check with the guards at the information kiosk. 3m right of the prow. Up corner for 2m then right and up the cracks.30 Metres ASPECT: Most of the climbs face North and are close to the obvious pinnacle. and great views despite the eyesore of the nearby township. Follow this track. Abseil off this tree to the base. Leave your valuables at home and do not trust suspicious looking characters. FA: Mike Cartwright & M Loewe 1992 The Junkyard For some of the best trad climbs at Boven. Climbs are described from left to right: JUST BEFORE BREAKFAST [ GPS: S25 38 12. FA: M Loewe. on the right looking down a small gully there is an obvious crack.6 E30 20 49. APPROACH: Drive into the township. From here. but beware of locals lurking around. Leave your valuables at home. The crag is on your left [ GPS: S25 38 15.6]. just climb on the other side or go across to the other side of the gorge. Mike Cartwright & F Botha 1992 RETROGRAD RAT AND THE YEOVILLE DIVA 22 *** [Trad] Climb the tangle of overhanging roots to a stance 5m right of TREE LOVE's rock start. APPROACH: The safest parking is found at the new tourist information stop when you drive through the road tunnel towards Nelspruit and turn off on the left immediately after exiting the tunnel. HEIGHT: 18 . take a sharp right beside house „675‟. Climb the corner through a roof. pass the post boxes and Shebeens (bars) then take the next right.(East) This tunnel is a National Monument where tourists have been mugged before. New tourism developments are in the planning which will make climbing here safe in future. around a bend past the high school on the left.

FA: Ruan Pretorius & Jaco de Wet 2006 TWO FOR TREE 17 ** [N] Climb a finger crack in the recess below a massif creeper fig tree. Climb over some roots heading through the flaring chimney to finish slightly up and right high up. Then straight up to an exposed scramble left on a ledge. Traverse right into the chimney onto a ledge. 18 *** [N] Start left around the corner and up the recess from THE WIZARD OF OZ. FA: M Brunke & Stewart Middlemiss 1991 OUT OF GERMANY 23 *** [4D. but climb the face.. Continue through the overlap to a ledge then head for 79 . Then straight up to an exposed scramble left on a ledge. climb up traversing diagonally back towards a crack after 3m. a rippled face with a chimney crack just right of it is found. #2. FA:Chris Jansen & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2006 LITTLE BITCH 24 * [1B. 1A] Climb the crack up the front of the free-standing pinnacle.5] 16 *** [Trad] Starts about 30m right of little bitch at a face just right of an obvious recess. Pitch 1. step over to face. Step right avoiding a tree and into the crack. 16 **** Move through overlap up from ledge and up a crack. You may need friends #. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Thulani Mazibuko 2000 CREEP IT 'N REAP IT 17 *** [Trad] Start just right from THE GUTTER in a corner. Wach out for the huge loose boulder on your right.8 E30 20 47.5. FA: R Johler 1992 STYLING 17 ** [Trad] Climb the arete left of COP. Pitch 1. At the top of the tree go one move to the left and then follow the obvious line again. From ledge. Pitch 2. Use some lower-offs on LB. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Johann Venter 2004 ET TU CEASAR 19 *** [Trad] 20m right of the loose pillar. Climb straight up close to the right edge of the ledge on powerful moves.A] Climb the wall around to the right of OUT OF GERMANY.EASTSOLOING 15 * [Trad] Climb the arete on the opposite side of the pinnacle to COP.. FA: Clive Curson. Climb this onto the arete halfway up.5 at the bottom. traverse right to the arete and follow to top through the creeper fig. 11 ** Climb tree for 5m. 15 *** From thin moves with tricky protection straight up the face to the ledge. FA: M Jager 1992 YOU CAN TAKE YOUR DOG TO THE WATER. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton 2004 WIZARD OF OZ [ GPS: S25 38 11. Climb this into a roof then step out left (crux) and then easy up to a (belay) ledge. (The waterfall lurks behind you while climbing). FA: R Jager 1993 FUNKY FRUIT 16 *** [N] At Out of Germany look away from the river accros the little gully. 15 ** From the far left end of the ledge. FA: M Jager 1992 SOUTH CORNER 15 * [Trad] Climb the recess of the right of the pillar on the river side of the pinnacle. Then traverse left into the obvious crack and up. Climb the face to a rail. FA: R Kohler 1992 COMING OF PRIDE 17 **** [Trad.N] The line and the view of the falls are stunning. Pitch 2. Start just left of the tree roots on the obvious line going slightly to the right. Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Thulani Mazibuko 2000 THE GUTTER 15 ** [Trad] Start as for NN.

Climb the corner then pull through a small roof on good holds. move right to the arete and climb to top. walk out towards the road. 30m right of SCRABBLE. The big rambling dark red brown cliffs on the right side of the road a few kms past Boven on the N4. run out endurance sections. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton 2004 IN MY PLACE 19 ***** [Trad] Unbelievable.the tallest headwall of the crag. One bolt protects the bottom crux followed by some technical. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton 2004 BOA RODEO 31 ***** [Trad] The left crack on the obvious steep leaning wall on the far right of this 40m high crag.3] 15 [Trad] At the west entrance. Climb left past tree roots around a corner to the base of the crack. APPROACH: From the viewing deck on the West side of the tunnel. traverse 2m and exit up an easy crack. Pull up and left through a roof. or continue on easier ground to the top. The engineers of the late 1800‟s blasted out this passage and dumped all the rocks out on the scree slope below. Climb left towards anchors on the headwall. Follow the crack to the summit. Climb the crack on the steep wall 5m left of an arete till under the roof.N] Starts from the big block right of Boa Rodeo. FA: Jens Richter 2003 MULUNGU GOES TO SCHOOL 32 **** [1B. Abseil off thorn tree which is located about 5m below the top. FA: Mark Seuring & Alard Hüfner 2004 ZASM Tunnel entrance . Johann Olivier & Skapie van Niekerk 2004 THORNICATION 18 *** [Trad] Start 8 right of IN MY PLACE in a corner. but in fact an artificially made area.and write it up! HEIGHT: 8 Metres ASPECT: This is not really a crag. FA: Johann Olivier & Jens Richter 2003 KHAMIKAZI LEILA 17 *** [Trad] Starts in a left facing corner below the slanting crack 10m right of SCRABBLE. FA: Jens Richter 2005 SCRABBLE 18 *** [Trad] Takes the corner right of the steep cracks on the obvious overhanging wall. FA: Ian Caunt & party 2001 Waterval Onder – Luilekker Crags. 80 .5 E30 20 42.(West) Only the British! With some incredible potential for new lines all over. Step out left then back onto the headwall keeping right of the tree. The route is on your left FANTASY FONDUE FORFIT [ GPS: S25 38 10. Possible to make a stance here. 8m right of an old fence take the right hand crack till some loose blocks. The route is 45m long and can be done in 2 pitches. some young English lads found THIS spot to clamber . FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg.

Call Louw Pretorius. HEIGHT: 45 Metres ASPECT: This North facing crag could be quite warm. The big rambling dark red brown cliffs on the right side of the road CEASARS BOWL 23 *** [Trad] This route. 3. HEIGHT: 18 . 17 ** 35m. the owner of Luilekker Guest House on 013 257 7056. END 81 . The route ALLO.2 E30 22 26. APROACH: On N4 highway drive in the direction of Nelspruit. Cross the N4 and walk straight up the hill. follows a line up the middle of the main face.5] in front of the Aloes Backpackers and Restaurant. Abseil to ledge and another good tree will bring you back to the ground. Pitch 2. turn right on the N4 to Nelspruit and through the tunnel. 23 *** 20m.50 Metres ASPECT: The bowl-like feature faces North and bakes throughout the year.5km after the tunnel on your left is a parking area [ GPS: S25 38 44. ALLO ALOE 15 *** [Trad] This route climbs the obvious right facing break that forms a corner in the middle of the face. Look for the well sign posted Luilekker Guest House. These crags have great potential and the land owner is keen to get more routes developed. Climbs strenuous corner crack for 6m the traverse right for 3m on good holds and exposure. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Chris Jansen 2001. Be friendly to him and report to reception before climbing here. There is still loads of potential for sport or trad lines.5km after the tunnel on the right. ALOE will enjoy morning shade in its right facing corner. From the top.9 E30 21 49. Fire straight up to a ledge from where one can belay and walk off. Kevin and Tracy manage this spot and will look after your car if you buy some fresh or smoked trout and a drink from them afterwards. shallow lunch cave. 2. Start on the face 10m left of the obvious. the first on the crag. Start at back left corner of ledge.7 1270 m]. APROACH: Drive out of town. Pitch 1. A: Alard Hüfner & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2001 Waterval Onder – The Aloes This crag can be seen from the increasingly popular Aloes Restaurant and Backpackers Lodge. walk 15m right to a good abseil tree. The opening party climbed it in two pitches of 25 metres each. [ GPS: S25 38 51. This crag could be slightly warmer than those in Waterval Boven due to the drop in altitude as one drives down. Climb up tending right into a recess till a large ledge below an overhanging face.