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THE BRANCH UBRARIES
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CAMERA ADVENTURES IN THE AFRICAN WILDS
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FLASHLIGHT PICTURE OF THE KING OF BEASTS. AT THE MOMENT THE PHOTOGRAPH WAS MADE THE LION WAS TWELVE YARDS FROM THE AUTHOR AND HIS COMPANION, WHO WERE ON THE GROUND BENEATH SOME THORN BUSH
CAMERA ADVENTURES IN THE AFRICAN WILDS
BEING AN ACCOUNT OF A FOUR MONTHS' EXPEDITION IN BRITISH EAST AFRICA, FOR THE PURPOSE OF SECURING PHOTOGRAPHS OF
THE GAME FROM
AUTHOR OF "BIRD HOMES," NATURE AND THE CAMERA,"
WITH ONE HUNDRED AND FORTY PHOTOGRAPHS FROM LIFE BY THE AUTHOR
DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY
INCLUDING THAT OF TRANSLATION INTO FOREIGN LANGUAGES.' I9RAKY ASTOR LENOX AND TILDEN FOUWOATIONS O > COPYRIGHT.ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. . BY DOUBLEDAY. IQIO. BY P. F. INCLUDING THE SCANDINAVIAN COPYRIGHT. FEBRUARY. THE NEW YORK PUBil:. PAGE & COMPANY PUBLISHED. COLLIER & SON .
... : .THIS IS BOOK AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED TO MY WIFE WHO SHARED THE ANXIETIES OF THE JOURNEY ITS AND ENJOYED NONE OF PLEASURES ''II'". ..
. .' -.tftl ROUGH MAP SHOWING THE ROUTE OF THE EXPEDITION '' . .:: . . ..' ' .-'.
Through Game Country to Nairobi 3 Arranging the "safari.. 80 miles from the Kilimanjaro Seeing zebra. II.. V. IV. Exciting Adventures with Rhi16 Carrying on the Olgerei River. Grant's and Thomson's gazelles. Yata Photographing a 34 of zebra.. III. sight of 46 hippopotamus. a pair of leopards and some rhinoceros. lesser kudu. From Donya Sabuk to the Plains.. Thika River of 68 Interesting journey across the Difficulties in find- ing water Great abundance game. Interesting Photographing Rhinoceros and Other Animals by Daylight and Flashlight First Crossing the Athi River Visiting a Wakamba village Experiences with Lions.. near Tana River. water buck.. hartebeest.." noceros . hartebeest. giraffe.. fringe-eared oryx. vii .. Across the Athi Plains Immense herds Also reedbuck.. PAGE Arriving at Mombasa and the Great the Railway Journey . Daytime the Yata Plains to . Herd of Buffalo Big impala and eland . From Nairobi to Donya Sabuk..CONTENTS CHAPTER I." engaging porters and attending to the preliminaries of the expedition. impala. Our First " Safari. From Simba Camp. Photographing Lions at Close Range by Being Stalked by Two Lions in the Flashlight.
. Crater Lake elephants type of people Hunt for and presents from the natives. fishing Find140 Fine climate and good X.000 feet eleva- Difficulties in crossing mountain torrents Finding many familiar flowers Game scarce VIII. The Northern Guaso Nyiro. 10.. . On the Tana River. Finding the Way Without Guides . .. splendid Visits 122 The Meru Wa-Kikuyu... Kenia. . Seeing Twelve Lions in . From Meru Through Dominuki's Country to the Northern Guaso Nyiro . . Flashlight Photographs of .. Crocodile and Other Animals Amusing experience with season the natives 88 Beginning of the rainy Herds of baboons. One . IX. from the "safari" Heavy rains XL Simba Camp. . Interesting Native Dances. Gerenuk. discouraging conditions. Photographing Giraffe. potamus. Oryx.. good luck at Exciting experience with lions. 159 Getting separated Through waterless country and dense forests View of Mt. Making Yards Lack . Difficulties of or Trails . Hippo. From the Tana River to Meru. VII. ing and Photographing the Giant Bush Pig Wonderful park-like camping country Vulturine and common guinea fowl. Grevy's Zebra and Giraffe. me: . From the Northern Guaso Nyiro Back to Simba Camp.. Abundance of G .viii CONTENTS PAGE CHAPTER VI.. . One-Hundred-Mile March Over the Northern Slopes of Mount Kenia Visit to Fort Hall 106 and Nyeri hills Seeing much at a of the natives Hard march tion over the Camping .170 last of water. Them at Nine .. Our Stay at Meru.. Night.
Photographing Wildebeest.CONTENTS CHAPTER ix PAGE XII. From Simba Camp Back to Nairobi. 182 Finding XIII. Zebra and Other Game. How to Arrange a Trip to British East Africa. Cost and Equipment Its 196 XIV. Photographic Hints and Outfit List of the 226 in British More Important East Africa and Uganda Game Found 230 . The End of the Four Months' "Safari" Visit to Ju ja Farm and Karaite Finding lion dens one of Roosevelt's buffalo. Some Excitement with Buffalo.
. Rough Map Showing 1 the Route of the Expedition Page vi FACING PAGE he Commonest Animals of the East African Plains.. Carrying the Third One from the Right . .. Grant's Zebra and Coke's Hartebeest . Frontispiece . What is Probably a Record the xi Pair of Horns 16 16 Herd of Coke's Hartebeest on Dry Bed of the Olgerei River . A Herd of Tame Ostrich A Pair of Rhino Disturbed During Their A Pair of Rhino Meditating a Charge Rhinoceros Turning.. Sleep . . 16 16 .. 5 8 The Author and His Masai Guide Athi River Station 12 12 . 16 Same Pair of Rhino in the Act of Charging ... ..... .... Kilimanjaro Telephotograph of a Herd of Grant's Gazelle .. for His Noonday Sleep .... . .. 16 16 Telephotograph of Mt. .. 16 Herd of Grant's Gazelle.. after Seeing Shot Its . . 16 16 Charging the Author and His Com1 6 A Pair of Rhino When They First Discovered the Author One of the .ILLUSTRATIONS Flashlight Picture of the King of Beasts . Mate Fall from a 16 A A Rhino Getting Ready Charging Rhino Rhinoceros Photographed at a Distance of Fifteen Yards When panion Actually .
Drink graphed with a Single Lens and Greatly Enlarged Our Only Visitors One Night were Two Scavengers Spotted Hyena and a Jackal. Telephotographs of Wart Hogs... . . which the ..... 31 36 36 38 43 45 the Previous Plate A Group of Buffalo Resting Among Dense Bush Flashlight Picture of Coke's Hartebeest Flashlight of a ... Olgerei River Young Grant's Gazelle A Young Grant's Gazelle Hiding Herd of Buffalo on Donya Sabuk Part of the Same Herd of Buffalo Shown on .. to Came Feed on 65 in Frontispiece... and is The Animal Uncertain of Its Whereabouts . Water to 54 59 63 Three Telephotographs of a Rhino The Same Rhino as Shown on the Previous ......... .... Photo.. 18 Grant's Zebra Digging for Water in the Sandy Bed of the Olgerei River 20 Rhinoceros in the Act of Charging. 80 Suspects 80 ..... Danger. 48 Herd of Coke's Hartebeest Coming to Drink Flashlight Photograph of Coke's Hartebeest at a Water Hole in the Yata Plains . ............ . or Photograph Made at About Ten Twelve Yards 29 .... . Plate. ... 50 Spotted Hyena Coming to the .xii ILLUSTRATIONS in the Olgerei Telephotograph of Coke's Hartebeest River . but Photographed 68 77 "The King is Dead" Coke's Hartebeest Photographed from a Blind Telephoto of a Coke's Hartebeest... 65 a Dead Zebra as The Same Lion Shown from a Different Position . ......
..... .. Showing Hippopotamus in the Foreground On the Tana River. We . . 100 109 Our Camp Near the Ambori River.... 91 93 Herd of Giraffe Photographed Yards with the Telephoto at a Distance of about 375 Marabou Storks on the Banks of the Tana River A Young Dik-dik Found Near the Thika River in the Hippopotamus Tana River . Side . 96 96 96 96 96 Studies of Hippo in the Tana River Young Hippopotamus Asleep on the Bank of the Tana River The Tana River. Kenia 116 .... Hippopotamus on the Rock and in the 96 96 Water Immature Hippopotamus and a Crocodile Some Old Hippopotamus Asleep in the Tana River . . of Mt. .. .. .ILLUSTRATIONS Telephotograph of Three Water-buck One of a Pair of Lions Which Stalked the Author in Broad Daylight .. on the Northwest Slopes .... 96 96 96 98 An Immature Hippopotamus in the Tana River Telephotograph of a Large Crocodile on the Tana River On the Road Between Fort Hall and Nyeri . . Kenia with a Fresh Fall of Snow Covering the Entire Upper Range .. Type of the Park-like Country Through Which Marched 114 on Our Way to Meru Our "Safari" Crossing the Open Country on North .. Kenia in 113 Mt. . . xiii 84 86 Large Herd of Giraffe Near the Tana and Thika Rivers Large Herd of Giraffe and Grant's Zebra . of Mt.. . ..
. . .. 130 Men were Ordered by Their Chief to Bring Us 130 132 Firewood . .. .. ... Young Meru Kikuyu Girls (About Twelve Years Old) A Meru Kikuyu Man and Girl Meru Wa-Kikuyu Belles in their Holiday Dress Types of Meru Wa-Kikuyu Warriors ...... Cattle . Near the and Grant's Gazelle During the Noon- Herd of Grevy's Zebra A Pair of Grevy's Zebra.... . .144 144 144 of Oryx (Beisa) day Rest . . . . Kenia Coming to the Dance at Meru Which Was Given for Our Benefit 118 123 Dance of Dance of the the Meru Wa-Kikuyu Meru Wa-Kikuyu . . 128 128 . . ... . 128 Wa-Kikuyu Girls Filling Gourds with Water near Meru The Samburu Masai Method of Using a Donkey Dominuki's ... .. . . 128 .... . ... . .. .. .128 ' . . 143 144 Oryx Herd (Beisa) Near the Northern Guaso Nyiro . ... .xiv ILLUSTRATIONS .125 . 134 139 139 141 On the Banks of the Northern GuasoNyiro River Our Camp on the Banks of the Northern Guaso Nyiro Natives Crossing the Northern Guaso Nyiro .127 . . 128 Photographing Under Difficulties 128 Interested in the Reflex The Natives of Meru Were More in Camera than Anything We Possessed ... 144 .. Kikuyu Mother and Child Village of the Samburu Masai Samburu Masai and Their In a Masai Village . ..... Example of Vegetation Near the Streams of Mt... Guaso Nyiro ...
. . Kenia The "Safari" Taking a Rest During the March up the hills 159 Foot161 of Mt.. Kenia Long Distance Telephotographs Slopes of Mt. . . 150 Two Telephotographs of a Vulture . Markings of the Two Species Part of a Herd of Forty-five Giraffe and some Oryx. and Grant's Zebra. . 173 . Mount Kenia from . ....... Near the 144 Guaso Nyiro Telephotographs of a Gerenuk Near the Northern Guaso 144 Nyiro The Forest Hog Impala Jumping .162 164 Telephoto of Mt.. Kenia of Eland on the Northern 168 Simba Camp 170 Telephotograph of a Herd of Impala Feeding ... Kenia the Northern Foothills . .. or Giant 144 146 148 148 Bush Pig Telephotograph of Impala.. .. . . Our "Safari" Going up the Foothills of Mt. ..170 Building the Thorn "Boma" for Protection Against Attacks at . .152 ..ILLUSTRATIONS xv A Grevy's Zebra Which at One Time Came so Close that the Plate . . the Telephoto He More Than Covered 144 144 Grant's Zebra. Our Water Supply from Lions While Making Flashlight Pictures . Near the Guaso Nyiro Grevy's Zebra. the Difference in the Two Telephotos Showing . . Goose on the Guaso Nyiro The Natural Flower Garden on the Banks of the Northern Telephoto of an Egyptian . 155 Guaso Nyiro 157 . With . Near the Guaso Nyiro Telephotograph of a Pair of Vulturine Guinea Fowl .. . .
.193 226 226 .. .. . . ..176 . on the Athi Plains Coke's Hartebeest at Kamite . . .180 182 . Coming A Lioness About Lioness to Her Kill . . Another View of the Same Lioness .. . 187 .. .. to Commence Her Dinner . . Athi Plains . . on to their Water of Grant's Zebra and Coke's Hartebeest on to Immense Herd Their Way Water in . . . . The Reflex Pictures of Camera Equipped with Telephoto Lens Hippo Made With n-inch Lens.189 Way 189 Large Herd of Coke's Hartebeest at Kamite. . Front View of the Same ... 173 Lioness Approaching Kill .. with Single inch Lens.. 18- 228 . . .178 . . Search of . ..175 . . Female Grant's Gazelle and Her Fawn Telephoto of Wildebeest or Brindled Gnu.xvi ILLUSTRATIONS "Boma" Completed . . . 191 The Dense Papyrus Through Which We Went Colonel Roosevelt's Wounded Buffalo .184 . Setting the Flashlight . . 184 The Entrance to a Series of Lions' Dens . and with Telephoto . Telephoto of Grant's Zebra at Juja. . . .
forgive all errors. should be shot there are books brought up from the time arms. in unmanly. to those want to appeal to the and perhaps is who consider themselves as such. which grows is only too rapidly. be the study of it bird or beast. far more is interesting and useful than I its dead body. some reason for swelling the list of books. Further. no information as to how animals rather enough on that subject how sport may be attained without the use of the rifle.INTRODUCTION THERE should always be some valid excuse for offering a book to the public. and may I the reader pardon the many shortcomings and lovers of sport. man who did not shoot a very inferior person I he was. but whose only claim the insatiate love for killing which characI offer terizes their idea of sport. seemed wrong and foolish. but xvu who to-day find far greater pleasure and interest in hunting with the camera. inasmuch as it destroyed the very creature that afforded the opportunity of study. For many Having been years shooting was one of my greatest pleasures. I offer for The preservation of the wild animals the excuse attempting this volume. its The it idea of killing for the sake of killing lost fascination. I I was nine years of age to the use of fire- considered the fact. is The life of any animal. and I views on this subject. for by no means alone in my know many men who a few years ago am devoted their holidays to shooting. But as the years went by became more and more deeply interested in natural history. Unquestionably . This not an original idea.
Photo- graphic hunting. but we shall see the day when men will be as proud to the letters write its letters after their names as they are to-day of scientific of some of the existing distinguished societies. and before the year is past it will probably be an accomplished fact. on the ground that the animals so wild that his makes when the season opens the sportsman finds game too difficult to stalk. affords the greatest possible opportunity of studying the life of wild animals. and con- quently places the balance of chance too much sportsman's hands. In fact. in the fact that for the all camera hunter there the the wild animals and birds are But the man with the game for camera who enters Maine game land during the legal close season has already run against opposition from the shooting fraternity.xviii INTRODUCTION is the excitement greater. and a comparison of reduces the difficulties makes shooting in most cases appear as a boy's sport. to be seen. while the difficulties of photography are lessened almost yearly by the invention of better result and more simple devices. and has the advantage is no close season. besides being one of the keenest of sports. societies It will be but a few years before we shall see clubs and formed for the advancement of natural an important and wide-spreading one is only now being organized. the The in the efficiency of modern rifle greatly the chance of failure. What effect it will have remains history photography. and photographic bag. especially flashlight work. The animal pictures throughout original this book are direct photographic reproductions of the photographs. There has been no . with the that pictures which hitherto were practically unobtainable are to-day becoming common. Either in or New Brunswick they have been trying to pass a law prohibiting camera it hunting.
tions. 1909. District Commissioner of Meru. It is scarcely necessary to add that. and entirely free from fences or other restric- In conclusion to I wish to acknowledge the expedition. I esting to both of us. unless otherwise specified. C. Lane. all the animals were photographed in their natural state. distance at which some of the photographs were made is guessed and is consequently only approximate. Clark.INTRODUCTION retouching or faking of any description. Provincial Com- missioner of Kenia. while others. Horn. . GUERNSEY September gth. The at. E. many courtesies extended me during my Particularly are my thanks due to Lieutenant-Governor Jackson. who was my companion whose courage and coolness I owed many to help in my opportunities for photographing the life He frequently risked his more dangerous animals. RADCLYFFE DUGMORE. the work which was so interwhich will. and A. at large. were in most cases actually measured. trip. pictures are enlarged better advantage. such as those of the lion and rhinoceros. xix In many instances the somewhat in order to show the animals to and to allow for the loss of fine detail caused by the engraving mesh. W. R. interest to those and the results of hope. B. B. A. be of who see this volume. and and to to throughout the of James L. Perceval.
CAMERA ADVENTURES IN THE AFRICAN WILDS .
it seemed to us who were unfamiliar with the country. and wrote about seeing game so plentiful that two thousand or three thousand head in a herd was a com- Mombasa mon everyday sight. friends returning plentiful from the country told as ever. directly In fact. and with regret thought of the opportunities for obtaining photographic records of the animal life that were gone forever. me that most kinds of game were as and that. that the I days of great sights of game were numbered. about nine years ago. though the railroad ran directly through some of it the very best parts of the country. But to my surprise. 3 "Flashlights in the . When the Uganda railway was opened. a sight as seeing rabbits playing outside their warrens in Some to years later a brother of mine made a march from Uganda. the tales they told of what one could see from the train windows made heat) me wonder whether not received the heat (or supposed affected their of this their part of the tropics had stories brains. But corroboration from all sides. this had in no way interfered with abundance.CHAPTER I ARRIVING AT MOMBASA AND THE RAILWAY JOURNEY THROUGH THE GREAT GAME COUNTRY TO NAIROBI A GOOD many me years ago the writings of Sir Samuel Baker inspired visit with a keen desire to the country where game was so abun- dant that to see thousands of heads roaming the great plains was as common England. and when Schillings's book. and I wanted still more to see this animal paradise.
name. to say nothing of an elaborate electric flashlight device." appeared. the Eastern hand-made. I trip embarked for British East Africa. so many Britishers and we had much in comoutfit mon. Armed with this. nationality. The by way of Naples and the Red Sea was as uneventful as the the same mixture of passengers. I left New York toward the end of November as happy as a boy at the idea that at last my hopes were about to be realized. modern steamship travel usually is about fession whom and one hazards guesses as to age. pro- try to sell same stopping at ports where the natives cheap Birmingham machine-made objects. I Practice could give this knowledge. A short stay in England enabled me to complete certain details of outfit. inasmuch as there was nothing on the market that would serve the purpose. and these with the usual unexciting diversions helping to pass the time. CAMERA ADVENTURES I saw photographic proof of what I had heard and read. using the camera where formerly I had used the rifle. I Several were good in their way. . I hoped. and I definitely decided to start for British East Africa just as soon as I had acquired a little more knowledge alone in the difficult subject of animal photography. and I continued practising until within two weeks of leaving for this land of promise. I had soon learnt that the devising of a camera suitable for the varying conditions of the work was of vital importance. and so gradually evolved the weapon which would. On board were Americans who were going after big game.4 Jungle. represented as distinction. but each had its had several cameras built. and then. prove thoroughly efficient. defects. and a complete outfit for developing and printing in the field. crossing to Marseilles. For several years had hunted in the forests of Eastern North America. and spent the evenings exchanging ideas on and other.
5 Crossing the line was the only bit of dislathering. and more shocking cruelty than this palm grove island. but by the value of that same kind of weapon as sold by the dealer in East Africa. sipation in which we indulged. now British What a contrast the place exhibits to fighting is what has gone before! To-day the only that which takes place periodically between the passengers of the incoming steamers and the Customs. where Arab. Portuguese and indigenous native fought continuously for mastery as far back as history leaves any record. the beautiful harbor of Mombasa. of however ancient a date of purchase. For the same . the usual shaving and ducking producing no end of amusement. In 1894-5 British protectorate was proclaimed over what East Africa and Uganda. for the Island. but has also leased the ten-mile between the German boundary and Jubaland as a of tection of the East African concession. On the shores the low forts. natural proto the which was granted in is British East African Association by Seyid Barghash 1887. almost hidden by the tangle of vines. tory of this and brought up memories of the past turbulent hisIsle of War. to see for the sportsman rifle is so dull that he positively refuses its why the duty on his should be regulated." which is the translation of Kiswa Mvita. more fighting. interesting topics. about it in the dark days of the' early Finally England in her efforts to suppress the slave trade entered the scene of trouble. more treachery. to say Even the Chinese seem to have had something Christian era. not by cost.JOURNEY THROUGH THE GAME COUNTRY to us. barely suggested " their presence. Seventeen days from the time we left Marseilles saw us entering Kilindini. It is doubtful the native its name whether any place of size has seen more dissension. trol now she not only has virtual concoastal strip Mombasa.
and see to own luggage from its the being put in boats and taken ashore. We were even reduced to drinking the cool milk from the . built on the plan of those thor- oughly well-suited to the conditions of the tropical climate. which. perhaps. It scarcely seemed possible that leaving the we should need them. absurd. quite saved us The courteous hospi- Mombasa Club became were having a rough time of at the last it. duty is that has been paid. well-designed is in India. and we may even hope to see this peculiar condition change for the better before very long. So we put up at. and the cooling we had provided ourselves lasted only too short a drinks with which time. from even thinking we but we were glad beyond words when moment it certain that we should catch the train on the second day. We learned that the train started the following to get our things ashore day at about noon. However. We landed from the steamer after thoroughly enjoying the unex- our pected pleasure of having to haul out steamer's stifling baggage room.6 CAMERA ADVENTURES (foolishly. but that we should be able and through the Customs in so short a time as twenty-six hours was. the best hotel in of course. as during the first few hours after heat made us decidedly uncomfortable. and perspired freely while we fumed and fretted in true British style until the second tality of the day following. Warm blankets we had been strongly advised to take. the 10 per cent. railway carriage. how should we. or rather with. the uniniti- know ?) that the retail price of that rifle in East Africa represents. large profit besides the customary cost of transportation and rather expected by those who labor in foreign climes. for sportsman argues ated. and when the time arrived we of the feeling of relief to fully enjoy the comforts sat down with a roomy. that mere detail. the town.
jewel-like in iridescent plumage. the prints of decided patterns. where thorn bush.JOURNEY THROUGH THE GAME COUNTRY green cocoanuts purchased 7 from natives at the railway station. All signs of habitation ceased as we entered the dry region late in the afternoon. Both go bareheaded. foliage. like the gor- geous butterflies. and almost the only was the ubiquitous thorn. while the men wear either a long loose shirt some pale color. the strange euphorbia. sweet potatoes. to mango trees. Tall cocoanut palms waved their rustling branches over the dark. No more rich grass or tropical Everything was parched and gray. Some would. or perhaps tiny insects. which afforded welcome shade the small thatched huts of the Swahili native. less dainty. yams and maize grew luxuriantly in the small clearings. from flowers as brilliant as themselves. though the Fez cap is frequently worn. Near the huts. which manages to eke out a living from soil which apparently contains no vestige of moisture or power tree . Bush-like beans. tangles of vigorous vines. while others. Gradually the scene of people and cultivation passed and gave way to wilder and more hilly country. The dense first part of the journey was as tropical as one might wish. while the women love to carry an umbrella as a sign of white or of opulence. and other vegetation of varied size and color were passed as the train hurried along toward the upland country. darted here and there in quest of food. preyed on the larger forms of insect life. take their toll of honey. as a rule. Surrounding these gardens was the their usual dense tropical vegetation. women clothed in colored draped around their sturdy bodies in peculiarly graceful style. where birds. or simply a white cloth fastened at the waist. castor plants. were the natives. as happy and cona tented as children.
and we wished tion sleeping for more! The railroad supplies in these combina- the traveler and day carriages only a canvas-covered mattress. distinguish the indistinct forms of animals here clear. and on lookout for the game which. impala and others of the many it wild beasts that inhabit this natural zoological park. room. as the dust can then more easily be brushed off. zebra. at one thousand eight hundred and thirty feet above sea level. in such abundance. but. eyes. from Mombasa. we should At the first glimmer of daylight we could. one hundred and thirty-three miles in time for dinner. according to all accounts. Long before the sun rose the following morning the see we were awake. the strong black. Hartebeest and Grant's and Thomson's gazelles would scamper along. so must provide himself with what bedding he requires. CAMERA ADVENTURES We reached Voi. the air was still fairly warm. and is become red. It is also with soap not advisable to wear good clothing all cloths on this journey. as night advanced. the temperature dropped to a point where every bit of bed-covering we possessed was put to use. the perpetual wagging of their tails. and there a grotesque wildebeest. and towel. and then with a shakHere ing of its long tail run away with a peculiar rocking canter so characstrange buffalo-like teristic of these antelopes. which is served in the railroad Here. which would stand gazing at the passing train. would be a graceful gazelle. by straining our and there. Gradually the tropical dawn made things and to our intense satisfaction we found that the indistinct forms taking shape proved to be Coke's hartebeest.8 of sustenance. as the red dust permeates everything. Hard-textured clothing preferable to that of soft surface. white and yellow markings . and we climbed slowly but continually. Our excitement knew no bounds as we caught sight of each new animal.
: ." i*a': V& ' ' -c *fc\- THE AUTHOR AND HIS MASAI GUIDE .V5^ wN vv-^ita .
facts A simple statement of the plain was wonderful beyond its the power of improvement. and very necessary. towering above the small trees. far off into the distant purple haze. The habit of exaggeration so common little bits that one frequently finds oneself quite inadvertently adding here and there. we could see countless herds of animals. diary is It is for this reason that a carefully kept if of so much value to any traveler. especially he intends writing. as far as eye could reach. check on the too vivid imagination. either to make the story better. but here was a case where one's imagination needed no home-made additions. for that alone expresses the apparently limitless number which met our did but faint justice far surprised eyes. well-defined markin captivity! ings from the faded coat of the beast This splendid animal. What . Our excite- ment reached highest pitch when we discovered a large giraffe fifty standing complacently. and the dark. rich coloring. It serves as a potent. scarcely one hundred and the snorting train. or because. The and for stories we had heard once in my tell life I saw more than I had expected. yards from in his How different the huge creature looked natural state from those we had seen in zoos or menageries! How different the deep. after watching us for a few seconds ambled away to what he considered a safe distance. But one scarce dare the truth where conditions are tries to so extraordinary. as time goes on. its The word "countless" is used with due consideration of meaning. one's enthusiasm naturally makes events more wonderful than they really were. to actual facts.JOURNEY THROUGH THE GAME COUNTRY of their coats 9 light. now. With the making them conspicuous even rising of the sun all became more for in the soft morning beautiful and infinitely more wonderful. and instinctively one modify one's statements is hoping to be believed.
" Surely some better is adjective could be used. generally speaking. or would dart across the track zebra would race with us. arrival. to and the handsome creatures are in great numbers be used as food for the native workmen. and ten or twenty panels of barbed wire fence are like down a flash. he smiles sadly. it could travel in any other way. are . Awkward it certainly not. So far no practical use animal has been discovered. It is and were beautiful beyond words. A herd stampede. while. zebra. of the zebra will is The cause for this common dislike his objectionable habit of disregarding fences. some They looked new like painted ponies with their strongly defined black stripes. or some "Tommies. but a combination of both. and commences a torrent of abuse against what he considers like to see one of the worst pests of the country. if curious how they appeal to the you speak to the settler of the zebra as being even worthy of notice. it is and repeat the operation are measurable by miles." directly in front of the engine. as likely as not. though for the beautiful. described by some as "awkward. They would them killed wiped off the face of the earth. or even yet they can scarcely be said to be decreasing for the dogs. and perhaps the valuable hence the settlers' lack of love for the cantankerous. and then. They are not easily tamed and. but so absolutely suited to the peculiar structure of the animal that one cannot imagine how Later on we saw more animals. giraffe. the and more and more of commoner Frequently a herd of hartebeest. The destruction of a few panels loss of may mean immense damage ostriches. And except in very restricted areas. grotesque possibly.io CAMERA ADVENTURES gait an extraordinary neither trot nor gallop. In places where fences of the most importance that they should be kept in a good state of repair. to crops. they will wheel round at another point.
might the example be followed in of. where slovenliness and disorder. are allowed to exist! Here. besides the native. many Game was frequently seen within a few hundred yards of the stations. they are done. indeed. which geraniums. Contrary to popular opinion. owing to their lack of stamina. We stopped for breakfast at one of the stations. and have no staying power. here is The know never any disorder. donkeys remains to fully crossed with either horses or be seen. and headquarters of the railroad and government. guide. where. where to grow anything means untiring work in keeping the ground moist. only an occasional white passenger may stop. we noticed a double row . one sees well-kept gardens. venturing to remark that would not be long before we would be abusing these interfering nuisances as fervently as our stock of abusive language would permit. and only fairly Whether they will ever be successAfter. The idea that such a cross would produce an animal immune from horse fever. and He was a professional hunter and hartebeest he smiled when we waxed eloquent over some it broadly. a fair-sized town. and it is 11 difficult to break or almost certain that they are not worth the trouble. and even on nearing Nairobi. in flourish. fast run. What a contrast to the railroad stations sometimes seen in America. places I Well.JOURNEY THROUGH THE GAME COUNTRY extremely bad-tempered. a short. and even filth. they are not very fast. and I could not help remarking upon the tidiness of the place. perhaps in the midst of a desert. alone justifies the experiments in this direction. roses and other familiar flowers railroad platforms are as tidy as possible. Our enthusiasm each animals caused time we came particularly near to a herd of much amusement to a fellow-passenger who joined us at one of the small stations. so that they are most handle.
and Nairobi modern all in every sense of the word. them that may come into the town is being greatly restricted. met us at station. in a seemed somewhat queer almost naked people modern town. notwithstanding surrounding confusion and had our luggage off for the hotel. while hundreds of natives. to carry their decorative spears. after Train train went the out filled with these fine smart-looking spirits Negro and soldiers. The street through which we drove was crowded with as great a variety of people as one would wish to see -Indians. however. each excitement. which hartebeest gallop through the streets. stone buildings. Wakamba and Wa-Kikuyu. It not be long. before great changes will take place so far as the natives are concerned. Already they are being forbidden and something is being done. broken by the animals. and. while British officers. We arrived at Nairobi shortly before noon to find the station packed with people.i2 CAMERA ADVENTURES we heard later had been found necessary in order This fence is often to keep the great herds of game out of the town. Goanese. being but ten years old. and . will modern improvements. It is gave the place to see its distinct African appearance. I believe. Trouble with the so-called Mad Mullah had made it necessary for the Government to send troops into Somaliland. The the outfitters. in the way of making them use more Even the number of clothing. such electric light and water-works. more or less in national costume. soon Europeans. and having as fine streets. and it is no uncommon thing to see zebra or of fencing. were busy saying good-bye wives friends. in at the prospect to of active service. with whom I had arranged the for my trip. and the King's African Rifles were then entraining at Nairobi. mostly Masai.
ATHI RIVER STATION. THIS PROMISES TO BE ONE OF THE SAFEST AND BEST-PAVING INDUSTRIES OF THE EAST AFRICA PROTECTORATE . AN EXAMPLE OF THE WELL-KEPT STATIONS OF THE UGANDA RAILWAY A HERD OF TAME OSTRICH.
profiting by the stupidity of other nations in the past. who are over-enthusiastic. to Nairobi. and from Tsavo miles. One cannot help admiring the forethought which. minutes' drive brought us to our destination. This reserve comprises the to immense tract of land from the railroad German East Africa. covering in all about ten thousand square In is this region no shooting is allowed. Any are confiscated by the Government. to might cause animals such as the rhinoceros. for instance charge in order that they trophies. I believe it there some talk of forbidding any one going on with a rifle. which was no easy task. regardless of may have an excuse for how they have been taken. Of self- course a person may is claim the right to shoot any animal in defence. many sportsmen from game We may confidently expect that of most .JOURNEY THROUGH THE GAME COUNTRY when the plans for the 13 new arrangement of Nairobi are effected the native will They will will no longer be seen lounging about the European part. have their own section. but early morning we were up and at it. and. and after our Ten experience with the hotel at Mombasa we were delighted to find ourselves in the comfortable quarters which awaited us. in fact. As it was Sunday we were unable the following to do anything toward outfitting. decided to take advantage of the permit kindly granted to authorities to me by the work on the reserve. which bring in so parts of the world. and not be a reserve in name only. for there is no question as to the monetary all value of these animals. but there danger that some. has led to watching over the animal population before it is too late. so it looks as if the reserve might serve its purpose exceedingly well. to which they and the bazaars be relegated. trying to settle on a plan After much discussion we of campaign. shooting.
or other swamp growth. bid fair to more than hold own. We would not be allowed to shoot except in case of extreme danger. found most every one of the more important species of may be native game except Grevy's zebra. Lions. he will be wiped out as a Antelopes and gazelles of most species will. and owing buffalo. with public nuisance. are bound to be greatly reduced. last a long time. are on the increase. for he overcomes his reckless aggressiveness. unless go. enough about the methods of handling the both human . which so often him annoying and even dangerous. unless some- thing unexpected attacks them. including numerous rhinoceros. to find a fair assortment of game. to their apparently growing tendency to become their entirely nocturnal in their habits. Where we planned There we expected to go was about forty-five miles from Nairobi. The lowland classes buffalo (for one might almost divide them into two those which live in the hills. but the trip learn was an easy one. The which were nearly wiped out by the frightful ravages of the rinderpest only a few years ago. as rare as At present they are by no means but. judging from the persistent hunting of them during the past year. considering their some people imagine. and perhaps the roan and sable antelope. and we should outfit. while those of the upland go into the thickest safe forest. as they usually spend their days in places practically which are inaccessible to the hunter. numbers.i 4 CAMERA ADVENTURES many The rhinoceros will probably be the first to kinds will be abundant in the greater part of East Africa for years to come. no animal is so seldom seen. where they are practically In the great reserve from any chance of being molested. though they appear to be on the increase. and those which live in swamps) spend the day in the thick papyrus. renders even moderately careful restrictions.
four o'clock. and a Masai guide. to place us trip which was to follow. which was about seventeen miles. and where we should first find water. or one day's march. With this little outfit and provisions for two weeks we left Nairobi on February 5th. The It train took us as far as Kiu.JOURNEY THROUGH THE GAME COUNTRY and photographic. Accordingly in better position for the three 15 months' we made up a small "safari" of twenty porters. head- man. where we arrived about from the station to the was too late to make a start Olgerei River. . camera bearer. cook. our two boys.
wonder whether he was carrying some malarial germs for our special benefit. but our headman proved useless. and had not the slightest idea of arranging the loads It for the to men. instead of which the and refreshing as an early autumn night at home. and then it was but an occaand cause us sional mosquito that to would buzz around or rather she in the evening. live be sent for later.CHAPTER OUR FIRST "SAFARI. and enjoyed our first night Never was any one more sur- we were at the conditions. proved most difficult to 16 . ended in our having to leave some loads at the station finally got off just before sunrise. We utterly were very anxious to make an early start next morning. and. and we Our supply of meat. We sat outside at it all. under canvas prised than in tropical East Africa. and insect pests so rare that only during a very short period. did we have any trouble at all. in the form of sheep. so as to finish the march before the midday heat. or could trip ? we expect such superb conditions to prevail throughout our later We found on that hot nights were almost unknown. We had imagined there would be countless insect pests and suffocating heat. there were no insects of any kind to night was cool annoy us. and wondered Was this an exceptional night. the tent watching the big clear moon. toward the end of the rainy season." II EXCITING ADVENTURES WITH RHINOCEROS WE CAMPED not far from the station. what seemed more surprising.
A MOMENT LATKR THEY CAME FOR US. THE BIRDS ARE STILL ON THEIR BACKS AND ONE BIRD MAY BE SEEN FLYING FROM ONE ANIMAL TO THE OTHER. (TELEPHOTo) .PAIR OF RHINO DISTURBED DURING THEIR SLEEP. (TELEPHOTo) PAIR OF RHINO MEDITATING A CHARGE.
X O 5 X >. ~ o 5 z o ^ 3 .a ta o .
ON HIS BACK MAY BE SEEN SEVERAL BIRDS '' A CHARGING RHINO .A RHINO GETTING READY FOR HIS NOONDAY SLEEP.
RHINOCEROS PHOTOGRAPHED AT A DISTANCE OF FIFTEEN YARDS WHEN ACTUALLY CHARGING THE AUTHOR AND HIS COMPANION. AS SOON AS THE EXPOSURE WAS MADE A WELL-PLACED SHOT TURNED THE CHARGING BEAST .
THE UPPER PICTURE SHOWS RHINO WHEN THEY FIRST DISCOVERED US. THE LOWER PICTURE IS OF ONE OF THE SAME PAIR IN THE ACT OF CHARGING US . THE BIRDS ARE STILL ON THE1P BACKS.
O O -1 U a x h H W 2 w h? r w w H a x Z H 3* oi ta > w CO co W Q 5 * O b 3 oa o O a. H a <-> Z a U) o X u - .z NN t-1 z. o 5 w X >.
THE THIRD ONE FROM THE RIGHT CARRYING WHAT is PROBABLY A RECORD CAN BE DIMLY PAIR OF HORNS. (TELEPHOTO) .1ELEPHOTOGRAPH OF A HERD OF GRANT S GAZEI LE HERD OF GRANT'S GAZELLE. SEEN NEAR THE TOP OF THE PICTURE. KILIMANJARO. OVER EIGHTY MILES AWAY.
this mist made the air cool dissipated. walking slowly along through the park-like scenery. and impala. beaded bracelet completing the simple and time I At the imagined the long. but before our trip was finished I had reason life to bless it. wart-hogs. and . or clothed Game we also saw. ungainly beast was several hundred yards away. to our great delight. and a finer or more picturesque figure would indeed have been difficult to find. endless low hills. der. on his and dressed with a red blanket hung from one shoulhead a close-fitting cap. I am not at all sure that I did not owe my to this supposed ornament. The rolling country through which we were traveling was covered trees. as the mist hung heavily over the the sun rose. Later we fringe-eared oryx. As was gradually distinguish the and shortly after nine o'clock we could more distant country. and refreshing. bare rock. knob- stick and knife. some Grant's and Thomson's giraffe. made from the stomach lining of circlet some animal. and the number of directions those three sheep could travel at the same time was really wonderful. 17 who tried to drive them. and a delicate effective attire. a of beads around his neck. He was armed with the inevitable long spear. gleaming spear was purely for ornament. trees.ADVENTURES WITH RHINOCEROS manage. was decidedly amusing. gazelles. a rhinoceros and a first The rhinoceros was of especial interest. as he was the we had its ever seen outside of a zoo. ostrich. at first only occasional herds of hartebeest saw zebra. but was not very abundant. and. Our tall Masai guide marched ahead with the long stride characteristic of his race. others it some covered with the characteristic flat-topped with yellow grass. Their natural dislike for the cook. and how different it appeared in wild state! The huge. in fact. with sun-dried grass and scattered thorn What lay beyond we could not land and see for several hours.
which drink there morning and obtained by digging holes in the The water we used was little filtration sand. shady bank overlooking the river bed. The signs of animals in the vicinity scarcely justified our staying in this camp. No matter how close to the water's surface to strike it we placed the trigger string. By digging very deep holes in the sand fairly clear we were able to obtain an ample supply of but rather strongly flavored water. it The on the contrary. cameras near them. With hopeful hearts we marched ten miles to two more water holes. head would be paying not the slightest attention to us as giraffe. was most let interested. cattle. as we would approach to off it would go. but what took place did not in the least reduce the disgusting taste. the birds would manage as they hunted their insect prey. and pitched our camp near a filthy water hole. within perhaps six hundred yards.i8 CAMERA ADVENTURES we were down wind. as invariably ended in disappointment. flashlight During the afternoon we arranged two one of the water holes. Then. . Usually. owing to the birds. for the river bed was nothing but dry sand. as half a mile farther away. and the water in the hole was polluted by the immense numbers of Masai evening. beginning of a long period of flashlight trouble. which savoured only too strongly of barnyard drainage. Imme- diately after breakfast we started in search of animals to photograph. and there made camp on a high. and Early next morning we visited found they had been sprung by some nocturnal birds. its For over two hours visible never it us out of its sight. and This was the we finally gave it up all attempts at automatic flashlight near water holes. where the guide assured us we should see we wanted. so next morning we moved farther all down the dry river. to appear again About noon we reached the Olgerei River. only peeped over the top of a hill.
and then came up a slight rise to where they were. after carefully focussing the camera. I might say. they uneasy way. made an exposure which these animals in the unfortunately was aimed with great precision at an intervening bush. so we were not particularly happy when we came on the three big brutes standing in defensive. and the inevitable charge would have been impossible to escape unless we shot to kill. and with an extra loud grunt they rushed at considerable speed directly past. sniffing the air. As they were a condition of mind that would require little them to charge. and snorting in a petulant way that boded ill for us. Anything much over one hundred yards it is practically it is beyond their range of vision unless if moves. for their eyesight lamentably weak. and . yards. and about five hundred yards away. not more than sixty yards from where we were standing I in a somewhat perturbed state of mind. cow. and no trees to which we could retreat in the event of trouble. They middle and the two on either each other in the almost but down wind to cause of us. That they had our wind was apparent. not to make the exposure. unfortunately. which. the youngster side. attitudes. moved about in a very We made a large circle to get below them. in which case doubtful they can make it out from a distance of more than two hundred a bull. offensive. and in most comical way.ADVENTURES WITH RHINOCEROS We oceros. I decided. were 19 had not gone more than a mile before we discovered three rhin- down wind of us. Rhinoceros rely is almost entirely on the sense of smell. Our three rhinoceros youngster suddenly decided to investigate and nearly full-grown us. of the shutter brought all The sound drew together. or. as the sound of the shutter would unquestionably expose our position. staring at up with a start. Beyond the high grass there was scarcely any cover.
So we stood absolutely
few minutes the three creatures ran toward the spot
where we had come up the
the other direction.
After they had gone some distance to windward,
followed, as the bull
we turned and
For miles we kept on his tracks, and at length saw him taking his bath in a muddy hole. While he was thus engaged we got within
two or three hundred yards before he continued his way. Finally, I approached within less than one hundred yards and made several
Unfortunately, owing to the
photographs, as the animal was partly hidden.
an eddying gust of wind So ended told him of my presence, and he went off at full speed. my first but by no means last experience with rhinoceros.
to a clear place
we were out
good time, and after going a
few miles discovered two rhinoceros asleep under a
arrived within eighty yards,
cow and a well-grown calf, stood up, having presumably been warned by their friends, the tick birds. The light was poor, but I made an exposure, and at the sound of the
to be a
shutter they immediately
put in a fresh
but did not have time.
companion, who was
word, so when
out to him to
shooting, waited for
to give the
animals were coming too near
I called I
turned at exactly fifteen yards, just as
from the plate holder.
Fortunately the shot was not
glad to see the stupid blundering creatures take themselves
off as fast as their short legs
could carry them.
looking about the
Iff -^zxaaassr 31 "fi
ZEBRA DIGGING FOR WATER
THE SANDY BED OF THE OLGEREI RIVER
ADVENTURES WITH RHINOCEROS
But the idea of working
number, where some would surely get our wind, did
not apppeal to us as a very cheerful proposition.
to get rhinoceros photographs,
and here were the
do but ignore
Accordingly we selected a large cow and calf as being in a
good place, and off we went. The feeling was rather what one might have experienced on going into battle. There was keen excitement, and enough danger to make
we were working our way
over the parched grassy plain, where there
was no cover of any sort, a sudden snort behind made us turn, and we saw the amusing sight of a large rhinoceros, not four hundred
yards away, getting worried over our
He had been walking
along in an unconcerned way, and had suddenly come upon our
said he, "what's this,
then, like the stupid old beast he was, he charged frantically
one direction, then in another, turning sharply each time and
There was not even a bush on which
to vent his indigna-
the best exhibition of utterly senseless rage that
clearly the curious disposition of the
rhinoceros, to say nothing of his rather low order of intelligence.
fact that the
wretched creatures have such poor eyesight must
account, however, for
of their idiosyncrasies, and this defect
probably due to their not having any enemies. the only creature they need fear, and if they have been
hunted, the sense of discretion has usually developed in them
After having watched
a strong desire not to come to close quarters.
off his rage,
our irritable friend work
we turned our
two we were
only to find, to our disgust, that they
Stalking rhinoceros and stalking
had been joined by some zebra.
zebra are totally different propositions, the latter being
Crawling through high grass into which the animals
to get within
had taken themselves, we managed
one hundred and
yards without being detected, but
to a stretch
any nearer owing
was impossible to get of bare ground which we dared not
zebra, suspicious of our presence,
ously enough, without warning, the rhinoceros, which were feeding,
decided to wait for them, trusting to
get their photographs
they crossed the bare ground.
interesting, but nerve-racking
the two beasts.
times they would
then go farther away.
they evidently got a
of us, and with a snort rushed forward
and we thought there was going to be trouble, but they stopped, and after deliberating several moments returned to
Suddenly, without any apparent reason, they bolted
as hard as they could, leaving us thoroughly disgusted
large herds of animals,
among which were
zebra, oryx, eland, ostrich
for the loss of the picture, for that old rhinoceros
a splendid horn, and
so confidently expected better luck.
As we were
we turned toward camp,
arriving there about two
During the next two days we had very little luck and no excitement; but on the third day we had almost more than we wanted.
ADVENTURES WITH RHINOCEROS
noticed that one had a very fair horn.
discovered two rhinoceros feeding about half a mile away, and
toward them, working
as to get the
nearly ran on a single one about three hundred
yards away, almost directly
Had we gone another hundred yards he would probably have come for us, and we should have been between two fires. Not wishing such an experience we circled round, so as to put ourselves down wind of this last comer,
in a short
time got within one hundred yards of him, and suc-
ceeded in making two telephoto exposures without being discovered
by the animal or by the birds standing on his back. While we were wondering what next to do, we were greatly surprised to
either see the old fellow get ready for his
bush which offered
noonday nap. He found a suitable him practically no shade, and after smelling it
thoroughly, and turning several times, he lay down, and apparently
to sleep in a
Such a good chance for close work had been hoping for, and so after waiting until we
were sure he was quite sound asleep
for another regular quick one, care.
changed the telephoto
started forward with the utmost
companion, with the .450 rifle, was immediately behind me, and the camera bearer and Masai a little farther back. As
quietly as possible
stalked the sleeping creature until, at thirty
we decided we were
for all practical purposes.
Like a flash the big animal was up, and without waiting a minute he headed for us with tail erect and nostrils dilated, snorting as he
was a splendid sight, but not one to linger over. I was watching him on the focussing glass of the camera, and when he
seemed as close as
pressed the button,
companion, as agreed,
he heard the shutter drop.
shot struck the beast in the shoulder, and fortunately turned
At the point of turning he was exactly fifteen yards, but it seemed more like five. It had been very exciting work, and as we sat down to recover from the nervous strain we could not
help thinking that photographing charging rhinoceros was great
sport, but not intended for people with
shot had aroused the other rhinoceros from their quiet feeding,
and they were slowly making off, so, as we were anxious to secure By walking pictures of them, we had to bestir ourselves to follow.
we soon began
to get a
to overtake the pair,
and before long we
were within about one hundred and
yards of them.
photograph of the two against the sky-line,
expected to have the opportunity as they reached the top of
just before reaching the place
them the birds on
round and faced
the animals turned sharply
Considering the fact that they were to windfifty
ward, and about one hundred and
be no reason to expect trouble.
yards away, there seemed to
were therefore greatly surprised
when, after a
preliminary snorting, they
straight for us.
but did not have time to replace the
telephoto lens with a quicker one of shorter
were within dangerous distance.
at the one
which was clear of
did so, but
the excited brute, though hit, continued in our direction.
meantime the second one, which was the larger and had the finer horn, cleared the bush not more than twenty yards from us. I
ADVENTURES WITH RHINOCEROS
tried to get a picture of
him, but the
difficulty of rapidly focussing
with a telephoto on an animal coming with such speed proved too
realizing the almost certainty of failure,
and not daring
him come much
had the other one
to shoot to kill.
This was done,
the sound of the shot, or the sight of her
cannot say, but the second rhinoceros wheeled round and
appeared with marvelous rapidity over the
Photographically, the adventure had been a dismal failure, simply
not having had time to change the lenses, but from
a sporting point of view
experience leads one to realize the possibilities of keen excitement
which the rhinoceros
when he happens to be were very lucky to have come out of it
bad frame of
as well as
two of the huge beasts coming together one would have
very small chance to dodge the charge, in the quite possible event
or the shot not being well placed.
sorry for having
to kill the stupid old creature, but
under the circumstances
a case of his
the only thing to be done, as
measured the animal, and found
the complete length to be exactly twelve feet from tip to tip, while the horn,
which had appeared so long, was only twenty-four and a
be turned into the chief
department, we had to hack
only our hunting knives with us.
and a long job it was, as we had These horns are of curious structcompressed.
composed of hair or
their value as trophies (and they are
the least attractive of
they go to China, where they are pulverized and sold
for medicinal purposes.
After our keen excitement
camp, the men loading themselves down with rhinoceros meat, which some of them eat, and strips
to be glad to start
of hide, which they polish and use for walking-sticks and whips.
camp we had our
good view of Kilimanjaro
that wonderful mountain
whose snow-clad summit
out of the
heated plains to the height of about eighteen thousand
domed form with
beautiful beyond words,
and appears even higher than
nearly always conceals the lower part.
owing to the haze which It was eighty miles from
and we could see the great plains shimmering with the heat stretching away, till at ten or twelve miles they were gradually lost
the blue atmosphere.
the great impressive
ingly unreal, almost ghostly in
lack of visible contact with the
to the lack of color,
The photographs which
give not the slightest conception of the stupendous beauty which lay
before us, and
with a feeling of shame that
reproduce one here.
the following days to
exciting than the turbulent rhinoceros.
of Grant's gazelles afforded no
sport one day, as they allowed
approach within about seventy yards.
they kept ahead
of me, walking as fast as
walked, and giving
some of which were unusually For nearly half an hour we continued in large and well formed. this way while I made several photographs, in some of which Kilitheir heads,
examine and admire
manjaro stands towering over the beautiful scene, as grand a back-
for fear the habits of these strange the reader will have a wrong impression of creatures which look like survivors of antediluvian days. Had I left East Africa without having seen the . where we were working. Unfortunately. as it gave us It an unwarrantable confidence might be well here to say a in the efficacy of the shotgun. Most of the smaller game I I found extremely wild. which I should have liked so much to photograph. Later on.ADVENTURES WITH RHINOCEROS ground as 27 man could desire. and had In the next encounter to we shotgun loaded with buck shot. or at least wanting to make an unduly close investigation of our persons. this success nearly cost us our lives. timid impala always outwitted me. but it must be borne mind that the rhinoceros' habits localities. at fourteen yards one tried using a A pair charged us without provocation. but it in the region of the Olgerei. few words about rhinoceros. People who have known and hunted them will ridicule the stories I in other parts of East Africa have told about having been charged so in frequently. in fact they have all be stalked with great care one would get at near them. was almost an exceptional case when a rhinoceros would run away without either attacking. and only all. and I was able a fairly satisfactory photograph at close range without having to kill. differ just as their appearance does with In most cases they will not charge even to when if actually teased. Our next attempt at rhinoceros ended as on the last occasion by having to shoot one. the haze made it impossible to obtain a satisfactory photograph of the more distant parts. so did the few oryx. proved perfectly successful. with the greatest difficulty was able to get any photographs at Try and as I might. with which It turn to get the creatures. the graceful. to be shot. and the pair of lesser kudu.
and be equally careful in doubting the statements of others. so it is well to be careful in making statements them properly. To generalize on an animal after having seen a very is few specimens under one condition. under various conditions. After our last encounter with rhinoceros decided to steer clear of the cantankerous creatures while on the reserve. ill-tempered beasts that could be only too readily approached. and when is they hear some fact about the animal which not in accordance to the conclusion to with what they have observed. immediately that it jump is wrong. believe they know all about his habits. all of which bears out what I have long considered to be true that a correct account of any animal can only be obtained by observing the animal in many places. The experience I had with rhinoceros of the qualify Olgerei was absolutely disbelieved by some people in East Africa.28 Olgerei rhinoceros CAMERA ADVENTURES my opinion of the animal would have been that all. so to devoted the remaining days of my stay on the Olgerei other game. especially so-called popular writings on natural history. I they were scarcely to be feared at and generally speaking some- what I difficult of approach. and at one season. This applies equally to the habit of criticizing by people who. Had seen only those of the Olgerei should have considered them decidedly dangerous. . into almost certain in to fall error a fault only too common. as photokill. having seen an animal once. and I was afraid the authorities I would consider was breaking faith with them. and at different periods of the year. all who thought vagaries. graphing them evidently meant having to or at least shooting more often than I not. It they thoroughly understood the animal and his required the photographs to prove the truth of I my account.
o H < o * * < o H X O Z z F" ya 04 gs^| < u W B^H* m < a.. Q B " < H H to Z 5 s w O D * S . < M|S 3 U 2 w co Q id co W 02 > S * < S Id H 3 H H ti S>.pi P w E u* P (** X Z < id > a CO a. o id id a pa ? ^ B . B! r* 3- < < . id Q H M H C^ ^ D.
but seems to know exactly where to dig. The curious part of it is that while a man I will usually dig many holes before he finds water. In vain I tried to stalk the tall silent animals. which was low and yellow. however. had not observed. it was by carefully considered action that they . shone with the soft full force on the zebra. and warm light made everything wonderfully beautiful. How they know where to find water we cannot presumably by is their keen sense of smell and by past experience.ADVENTURES WITH RHINOCEROS One evening I 29 had the satisfaction of seeing a herd of zebra come on the dry sandy bed of the river not far from our camp. but until this it had always been apparently in a rather haphazard way. and I simply had the pleasure and disappointment of seeing them cross the glistening sandy stretch and disappear among The the tall flat-topped thorn trees. a herd of I which. making but It much as two deep in the sandy bed of a tell. the animal seldom makes a mistake. it but as they had been put on the alert was impossible. The sun. unfortunately. from the befouled water holes sometimes as river. It was therefore with great delight that after some careful stalking I found myself within fair distance of them. This time. often dig for water rather than drink holes. They feet dig with their hoofs. as they ran. my attempt to get nearer they five me and went off. Up to that time I had been unable to make a single picture of these exquisite animals. The zebra. alarming. I following day had my first really exasperating experience with the hartebeest. but discovered giraffe. like many wild animals. in secured one photograph of these zebra. On many previous occasions they had upset my time plans by their remarkable habit of interference. a kind of instinct that bears a wonderfully close resemblance to reason.
bank and carefully selected trail my hiding led from which there was a splendid view of the For an hour shifted. would go straight ahead. about one hundred and off fifty yards away. Waiting till they had passed and were almost out of sight. then. plans. so two of the herd deliberately within seventy or eighty yards of me as I came back. . and going as fast as they could gallop straight to where the zebra were just appearing over the bank. decided that something must be done warn the zebra. was such that one could easily conceal oneself and get photographs of any animals as they passed. owing to the to wind having Just as I had change my place of concealment. my From way they were working there was every reason to believe they were coming the approach to which down to a certain water hole. so I reached the other place.3o CAMERA ADVENTURES A herd of zebra across the river attracted the outwitted me. I hurried forward. thought I was doing some careful stalking and seeing which way I was working. I Frequently when and was getting near to some desired animal. I I which to the water. Accordingly I found a place where I could cross the river bed without being seen. leaving The zebra were informed by a snort. and after looking over the situation for a to moment. at the critical The wretched hartebeest turned moment. and in a state of went the herd. waited patiently. From it day hartebeests were always upsetting my not been for their continual interference I should that have secured many pictures of various animals. attention. a miserable hartebeest would come along. caught sight of me. thinking that the zebra would started toward a follow close behind their friends. passing stood in plain sight. me Had mind that can be better imagined than described. clump of bushes a herd of hartebeest came down the sloping bank.
J ' TELE PHOTOGRAPHS OF WART HOGS. OLGEREI RIVER .
ADVENTURES WITH RHINOCEROS and warn every living thing within a mile of 31 my presence. his In the case of timidly into the lame impala. this it is impossible to say. such as lion. the most It was interesting to observe how they refused graceful of antelopes. but seemingly they were and kept very close together so long as they were in On February igth we broke up camp and started back toward Kiu. to allow a lame one to join their ranks. or possibly for fear that the "presence of a weakling will attract enemies. was rather undersized and seen it thin. friends. We were going through some rather high grass when . leopard. We had not proceeded more than a mile before we received an unexpected check. in company with to others of its its kind. going directly to the station instead of by the way we had come. Their habit of stationing themselves on an ant-hill. It good sight. and not until that after- noon had the reason of no wild animals care solitary life become evident. or other predatory animals. lost its life to avenge afternoon was spent in watching a herd of impala. was a strange-looking pair. Probably have a weakling in their midst. or because any that are below normal vigor are unable to follow them. and many is the hartebeest that has the indignation and disgust of the hunter. and the animal. and keeping a lookout over the entire country. is a well-known source of to annoyance sportsmen. This cripple I had seen on several occasions. One time I saw the poor thing walking across the sandy river bed in company with a monkey. One One of its forelegs was injured. he would no sooner work way herd than one or more of the bucks would with a loud snorting grunt rush at the unfortunate animal and drive it away. whether for fear of contamination by disease. Never had I which was a buck.
focussed on him as he rushed towards C. . But for moment I had other things with which to occupy my mind. loaded the shotgun with a charge of buckshot and a ball. next turned toward me. firing right into It made straight for the Masai. C. so that I might get a picture of the actual encounter. than that rhinoceros was up and at It Never see anything so quick. No sooner had I seized the camera and moved a animal in case little to one side. he also had his revolver. I missed the Masai.. as I afterward found to my disappointment. The ever. and sure away. six feet began away. my companion. so as to obtain a better view of the he charged (unless us." which means rhinoceros. and the importance of rapidity of action was very conspicuous. seizing his head as it rushed past him not barrel. "Kifaru. not twenty yards asleep. seemed incredible that so large an I animal could move with such rapidity. just as was endeavor- ing to put a second plate in position. his rhinoceros big gray back showing above the waving grass. CAMERA ADVENTURES who was leading. I released the shutter. and the creature came on without even had C. lay a large enough directly fast before us. the the In a hurry I did not put the plate holder all way in.32 the Masai. and distance jumped Having aside when within touching it of the big horn. and said in a low voice. fired a 12-bore ball from the and then.. was futile. to turn the animal with a charge of buckshot. realizing that the shot left its failed. revolver. was trying attempt. and the Masai and the two thoroughly scared boys who were behind them. he charged did I me first!). who stood quietly waiting the onrush. when at the Almost unconsciously out. stopped with great suddenness. howhesitating. For some reason or other we had not loaded our weapons that morning. same moment a shot rang C.
That turned its it toward C. and off it went. and that decided the bewildered animal to leave us alone. tired and hot. and glad enough to get a good bath an'd something to eat. No we started the caravan than we discovered another I rhinoceros about four hundred yards away. truly ludicrous. terrified caravan. heading almost directly toward the badly porters. who thought it better to continue its course. armed with a long sharp knife. and decided that we had the rhinoceros we wanted for some time. who quickly put another revolver shot into head. with wonderful coolness. which had it from the animal. the Masai. Then we all talked over the doings of the day. of The wretched dropped the retreat- seeing the imminent possibility trouble. We returned the following day by train to Nairobi. As we had a long march before us for the day. . The Masai soon fallen returned. drove spear into the side of the rhinoceros. his my relief. where the getting everything ready for our next trip occupied us for work of one week. That was too much for the rhinoceros. found that sooner had was badly bent. I gave up the idea of tackling any reached more "side-shows" We camp late that after- noon. to stalk When spoke of trying and photograph it the expression on the men's faces was They had had enough of rhinoceros for one day. it The Masai chased ing animal so closely that it when once turned toward the porters saw an enemy within a few yards..ADVENTURES WITH RHINOCEROS and to 33 the camera became less important than the angry beast. their loads and ignominously bolted. and were ready to chuck their loads on the smallest provocation. when. and picking up his spear.
Arrangements had be made to forward some of the chop boxes to Fort Hall and Nyeri. is not harmful. I had hoped. and an abundance of be found a most useful and wholeto some adjunct. it is taken. but Africa. Our provisions were of the simplest kind. none of the heavy tinned stuff that usually accompanies an expedition (and but lots more often than not brought back untouched). and other wholesome compact food. Additional porters were signed on. was the day set for our departure from Nairobi. and we finally were ready to start on the appointed day. PHOTOGRAPHING A BIG HERD OF BUFFALO THURSDAY. a new headman was engaged. of dried fruits and rice. not early in the morning. is is In a country where there so much game. Each chop box had to be arranged so as to contain our food supply for one week. and no This is possibility of is obtaining fruits and vegetables except near the settlements.CHAPTER III FROM NAIROBI TO DONYA SABUK. of course. February 25th. where a great deal of exercise long shoots. our two most probable stopping places. such as long marches and as easy as it when camp life is usually is in is East well to be moderate in the fruit will amount of meat that eaten. Some that had proved unsatisfactory on the former trip were discharged. tried for one 34 . one inclined to eat far too much meat. but The men. as late in the afternoon. according to custom. The task of equipping ourselves with all that would be necessary for three months' "safari" required careful thought and preparation.
such as Meru. told. and down whose Nakuro. plans are not easy to make. gun and camera bearers. thence to the Tana River. cook. we were Yata to go by way of Donya Sabuk and across the Athi River to the Plains. Lieutenant-Governor Jackson very kindly gave us tion to the officials through districts of introduc- we might pass. and then. what with porters. even though we were ground fifty all reach a camping five miles from Nairobi. even though he may have them frequently. As events turned out these plans had to be greatly modified. According with to our plans.PHOTOGRAPHING BUFFALO more night in 35 town. if local information seemed satisfactory. but I was determined only able to get to away. our two boys. or rather not easy to carry out. directly westward to the railroad at letters across to Lake Hannington. No man can give you positive information either about game or water traveled through in certain localities. definite and reliable information very difficult to obtain. and the rains being very uncertain. from there by way of Fort Hall and Nyeri around the northern side of Mount Kenia to Meru. is In a new country. headmen. and off we went. northward from there to the Guaso Nyiro. and one has to be willing to sacrifice one's pet ideas and hopes to do what proves practicable. who felt that they needed to be waited on. and the where latter part of the trip was entirely changed. Our caravan numbered about askaris. The water supply. and also furnished us with permits to enter any of the closed districts. may readily be understood why informa- . being depend- ent entirely on the rains. and the game regulating its habits by the food it supply. which in turn is governed by the rainfall. which were made after a lot of consultation many people. and an assortment of boys taken by the headman and others.
where their enemies might have opportunity of concealment. in zebra. No enemy can approach them unseen. entirely and shrubless except in the vicinity of streams.36 CAMERA ADVENTURES good faith. where inconceivable numbers of roam about with comparative safety. or even to sandy it. realizing the great possibilities of danger. consisting chiefly of Coke's hartebeest. beds where they can obtain water by digging for Many many people who know the country well. and must be due animals. as the short. hence they gather together in immense wild animals herds of mixed species. Grant's and parts the wildebeest. it does not appear to be borne out by the sign of a kill in I have never even seen to the fact that such places. The common idea that lions generally stalk their prey near water holes fact. where water holes are in or near thick cover. carry The porters. given in perfectly proves entirely misleading. is The one question upon which everything depends the adequate supply of water. while the is wild rocky regions where there little or no vegetation. necessary to arrange to make camp near For the first water. often tion. with their sixty-pound loads. and some Lions and leopards are also to be found when the conditions are suitable. Thomson's gazelles. led us across the Athi Plains treeless two days our way broad stretches of undulating country. cannot It is therefore much extra weight. say that lions will resort to . or other places where there is cover for them. such as along the scanty river bottoms. the animals will go miles away from river their feeding grounds to less dangerous places. as a rule approach their drinking places with the utmost caution in fact. and impala. closely cropped grass affords no chance for stalking. the leopard in parlion frequently selects ticular being averse to open country.
YOUNG GRANT S GAZELLE A YOUNG GRANT'S GAZELLE HIDING .
we had our first sight of a large herd of baboons. by climbing to the tops of the ant-hills and staying there for a few seconds. As long as we stopped and tried to secure a kept on our way and us. and run directly toward the crouching beasts. paid no attention to them they did not worry much about but the moment off I photograph. the mother baboons carry their arms or on their backs as they travel about the Just before reaching young in country. On the feet in diameter. their As with other monkeys. while they carefully examined its us. which though common enough are not often seen in daylight. rises Donya Sabuk. whose diabolical cunning and terrific strength makes them dreaded by all creatures. some of them seven or eight feet high and twenty or thirty habits. way the animals. It was interesting to watch these strange creatures as they moved about. being almost entirely nocturnal in their morning of the second day. will go down wind. always keeping us clearly in sight.PHOTOGRAPHING BUFFALO ingenious tricks 37 when hunting. disappearing like magic. a mountain which . During our march we saw countless numbers of the commoner animals. while going through a region where there were great numbers of immense grass-covered ant-hills. It is also said that lions will surround a herd. smelling their enemy. and by their continual roaring strike such fear into the hearts of the timid antelope that they will become terror-stricken and so fall an easy prey to the mighty hunters. If a small tree take to highest branches to was near they would each in turn have a look about. they were immediately. herd. while others this One lion goes to lie windward of the In one or more in wait to leeward. also a spotted hyena. one of the cleverest being that of driving their quarry by scent.
but almost homelike in its quiet beauty. the distance they remind one of oryx. Kenia raised its snow- covered peak above the clouds. not tropical in any way. and following wheel around In once in a while. scattered thorn trees. while out getting firewood. It was remarkably tame when brought to camp. Away Plains. and I had no trouble in photographing it in many positions. toward the farm and store of some Englishmen. The trail led us through some extremely pretty country. We were surprised at the complete . came across a young Grant's gazelle. as far as the eye could reach. without after the long and rather hot march shade of any sort. among stream. lay the great Athi and to the north. to stand facing the cause of their suspicion. One of the porters. from whom we expected to procure rations for the men. keeping on the northern Donya Sabuk. abruptly from the plains to a total height of about seven thousand feet.38 CAMERA ADVENTURES we saw a large herd of eland. and the silver-gray skins of the When alarmed they their leader trot or canter away in a compact line. which after some difficulty he succeeded in catching. and near a delightful little mountain The coolness of the evening was thoroughly refreshing in the glaring sun. their swinging dewlaps old bulls adding to the illusion. where the spurs side of of mountains were covered with rich grass and low-growing trees. while their horns are short and thick instead of long and slender. Soon after dawn we continued our way. We camped for the night on the northwest side of Donya Sabuk. a long way off. and we had to content ourselves with looking at them several hundred yards away. They were extremely cattle wild. though much larger and more heavily built. to the west. The large creatures remind one more of than antelopes.
It was hard work. and that the chances seemed favorable for photographic work. had break- and were well up the steep slopes by the time the sun had crept through the morning clouds. as the thick high grass rendered the walking very tiring. and of course dodging scarcely where one cannot move quickly and freely. for except a few hartebeest 39 the we saw nothing during morning's march. with which the upper part of the mountain partly covered. Buffalo were be what I particularly wanted. and had our first experience of early morning in tropical woods. is We were up very early the next morning. fast in the dark.PHOTOGRAPHING BUFFALO lack of game. According to the information the best chances would be early in the morning and quite late in the afternoon. and look ahead as far as possible. All that we could do was to go carefully. and in places it was so steep that a rest was necessary every few yards. as rhinoceros in particular have a disagreeable sleep in high grass. What would have happened is difficult had we come across either a buffalo or rhinoceros to say. as then the buffalo usually come out to feed. The I singing of myriads of birds the air with such music as had never before heard. so that even way of going to when keeping a sharp lookout one is may almost stumble possible in places over them. upsetting the idea that tropical birds. while during the day they retire to the cool shade of the dense forest. really more like climbing than walking. The first thing we heard on arriving at the farm was that there to were buffalo on Donya Sabuk. After climbing about seventeen hundred feet we reached the edge of the forest. though beautiful . so we made camp with the idea of staying a few days. No words can describe the filled beauty of the scene.
shrouded other in places by the low-lying clouds. which darted through the patches of hazy mist and filmy clouds. as far as the eye could see. and time was very valuable. A few hundred yards of climbing brought to me to the crest of a spur I from which. with long lifted shadows. and in the background a belt of forest which head from a deep gully. stretched a limitless view of plains and mountains. but the setting was such as the one might well wish to paint soft its waving yellow grass. and one over which we should have there regret to liked to linger. lack to a great extent the power of song. Above it all towered Kenia. less saw a picture that made my heart beat with excitement. delightful The sweet scent of the flowers of the forest trees was beyond words. we turned from and continued our search. so with the fascinating scene. for not only was there the thrilling pleasure of seeing this splendid herd of what are considered by many the most dangerous animals in the world. still quite near the horizon. feeding quietly grass. It was indeed a feast for the senses. my intense delight and surprise.4o in CAMERA ADVENTURES plumage. but we were look for buffalo. and lighted in morning sunshine. I made my way alone toward an open stretch of the above us. something to remember. no twenty-eight of the big creatures. its snowy summit showing pink against parts by splashes of ruddy the delicate purple sky. for there. The trunks and branches of the trees were warmly lighted by the low sun. While took his hillside my companion waited to make a photograph of a view which fancy. utterly oblivious of the presence of than among Such a the high sight is man. . Below the foreground of dark richly colored trees. was a herd of buffalo. not two hundred yards away.
the sad fact that with such light
would be almost impossible
graphs, especially as
good instantaneous phototo use the telephoto lens,
would be necessary
which unfortunately requires the best of light. However, I must do the best that could be done under the circumstances, and so I returned with the utmost caution to where the cameras were, and
making everything ready crawled through
the grass as carefully
as possible toward where the buffalo were
they had become suspicious, and were sniffing the air in a
me and my chance
of obtaining any pictures.
go nearer than within about one hundred and twenty-
five yards, I quietly lifted the
camera above the
level of the grass,
focussed carefully, and with trembling fingers pressed the button.
of the shutter betrayed
what might happen
into their heads to charge.
roaring of a lion in
woods below did not
sounded rather ominous,
could not pay
intimately connected with the buffalo, which were becoming
getting ready to charge, and
with me, and
my companion was
some distance away, and
what would one
of stopping such a large herd
they meant mischief?
being no visible means of escape
could see nothing to be gained by
in conjecturing, so I distracted
thoughts by taking
another photograph just as one of the big bulls was bellowing.
great relief they turned
to the shelter
of the deep forest.
As they went
got one more picture just before
had disappeared. This being my first experience with African buffalo, it seemed as though I had been exceptionally lucky so easily. Judging from the numerous stories in
had read of the
terrible ferocity of these
lot of trouble,
expected to have a
but from what
seems that buffalo
will not, as a rule, attack
unless they have been fired at, or
and even then, unless a cow
more often than not run away,
which the buffalo had
they have the chance.
was an immense
on the edge of these rocks stood a large euphorbia. In the shadow of this queer-shaped tree we decided to wait and watch for the rest of the day, on the chance that the buffalo might
pile of rocks;
to feed again,
though we scarcely expected to see them After a few hours we heard something moving
forms as they
was not long before we made out the dark Off and on occasionally crossed a fairly open place.
during the rest of the day
or heard them, but without having
for using the
o'clock that they finally emerged from the woods,
and then instead
of coming out into the open to feed, as
remained among the low bushes, some feeding, others standing chewing their cud, while a few lay down beneath the shrubs. Evifor even though we were dently they were entirely unsuspicious, but a hundred yards away, they behaved more like a herd of domestic
barnyard than a herd of savage beasts
in the heart of Africa.
Unfortunately, on our high perch
benefit of the wind,
which was blowing so vigorously that
< z ^ o
time exposure with the telephoto lens, and the rapidly declining
impossible to obtain satisfactory results with short
several attempts, but the pictures were of course
Had we been
would have been,
for the largest bull
what an opporin the herd an
immense beast with a wonderful
pair of well-formed horns
shade of a bush, his back toward us, thus exposing both his
and the back of
his head, fatal shots in either case.
an example of the difference between the difficulties of photographing wild animals and shooting them! All we could do was to enjoy
watching the herd until we were warned by the sinking sun that
quite time for us to be
tracks for camp, unless
be benighted on the mountain.
The walking was bad
would have been well-
enough by daylight, but
unaware of having been
by hurrying down the steep hillside, We were very much pleased with the day's work, but hoped to have even better luck before leaving. Whether or not the buffalo on
most of the remaining daylight and reached camp just at dark.
had been frightened it is impossible to though we climbed that mountain many times, and devoted
finding our trail
watching the edge of the
we could never
Only once did we even
in a small clearing
see the animals again,
and then they were
surrounded by dense and
go through the
any moment one might come only too suddenly on either buffalo or rhinoceros, would be sheer folly, for either of these animals,
bush, might prove extremely dangerous.
we were walking
slowly through the
keeping our eyes on the distant edge of the forest,
handsome black leopards drinking at a small spring not more than fifty feet away. They saw us just as we discovered them.
Needless to say, they were
These animals are
both rare and extremely shy, so to have lost an opportunity for
securing a photograph of
such an ideal setting was a source
of the keenest regret; in fact, the chance of our again seeing one of
them was most improbable.
particularly aggravating, as
could so easily have
a picture of them had
looking far ahead, and so failed to observe that which was near
reaching the edge of the forest
a pair of rhi-
the top of the
among some low
For some reason or other
to be the proper place for
mountain does not seem
these big creatures.
them more with open
and grassy swamps, whereas they appear to be equally at home in high country and dense forests. I made a couple of telephotos of the sleeping pair, then aroused them and made another exposure
of them standing.
was not long before they heard
a loud snort or two they rushed
the steep hillside,
in the forest below.
found the daily climb rather trying
our muscles, and so
decided to vary the work by taking a day after lions, several of
which had been seen by our men. We beat several river beds where the thick grass formed splendid cover, but beyond nearly over a sleeping rhinoceros, which scared the men out of their falling
we saw nothing
of especial interest.
This day we went as far
as the Athi River, where
view of hippopotamus.
of the big clumsy creatures were
the water, but
swimming about, mostly under surface occasionally to blow and snort.
After having once gotten wind of
they kept very close to a mass
and though they were not more than eight or ten
away, they were not again
with their small and very unpretentious grass huts. Most men were which they busy making large baskets. and expressing having a visit from white men. It track. giving sour milk to our porters. The women were of the engaged milk. in One old man was 46 engrossed in the making of . reached the Athi River. is in winnowing a fine millet-like seed which. was more or the usual park-like country so grass. belonged to the live Wakamba tribe. direction. They received us in a very friendly their pleasure at way. a quiet people who mostly by their flocks of goats and cattle. until dry. about stow their grain. These villages. scarcely less hilly and very common in British East Africa any undergrowth. and evenly distributed thorn The filled delicious fragrance of the cream-colored flowers of these trees the air. and we encountered scarcely any natives other than those in two small villages through passed. INTERESTING EXPERIPHOTOGRAPHING RHINOCEROS AND OTHER ENCES WITH LIONS. in full and reminded one strongly of a northern apple orchard bloom.CHAPTER IV FROM DONYA SABUK TO THE YATA PLAINS. Wakamba we was low trees. six feet in diameter. ANIMALS BY DAYLIGHT AND FLASHLIGHT ON THE easterly 5th of March we and left Donya Sabuk without having had Heading circuitous in a south- another chance of photographing the buffalo. We saw no game of any kind except a small herd of which we impala and a few hartebeest. traveling the by a very Plains. we went toward Yata The country. with maize and one of their chief articles of food.
there were fairly we felt good signs of animals. instead of the splendid deep copper color so often seen among their northern cousins.FLASHLIGHTS ON THE YATA PLAINS a bow. to but whether they are discover. a fine- looking race. being frequently rather small. and as our guide declared there was no water within six hours' march. Water is scarce throughout the region except during the rainy season. We is entered the Yata Plains almost immediately after leaving the Athi. like that of most of the open composed of very porous black earth with scanty vegetation. skilful in the use of them we were unable The Wakamba men have the curious habit of filing their front teeth to fine points. This immense tract between the Athi and the Tiva rivers. that our chances for obtaining flashlight photographs were excellent. and next morning continued on our way toward Yata Plains. A few zebra. The men frequently carry bows and arrows. hartebeest. In some cases they even pull out some. impala. we saw during the first day. and as a rule their color is coal black. follow- ning the course of the river for several miles before turning eastward. At other times most of the water holes and tiny streams dry up. is we had in the amount of game. ostrich all and a small herd of eland were Around the water holes. On the whole we were disappointed country crossed. Accordingly we set the cameras near the water only to experience the same disappointment . the Wa-Kikuyu. but the greater part. treeless except in occasional gullies. They are not. The ground is somewhat stony in places. near which we camped. and adze-shaped it 47 was interesting to see with what dexterity he used an tool. generally speaking. and in their place insert very finely pointed teeth made usually of hippopotamus ivory. the We camped for the night on the banks of the Athi River.
as on previous occasions. to be moderate in the use of alcoholic liquors. It may be readily understood for those what a wonderful fascination flash- light work has who are interested in wild animals. and once fever has got his hold on a white man powers of work are very greatly curtailed. again. The is great it drawback to this sort all of work. This finally necessitated our having to give up all idea of doing any more automatic flashlights near water. night.48 CAMERA ADVENTURES when the nocturnal birds had invariably sprung the shutters by flying against the threads. as it proved. that to means being awake and consequently being unable It is absolutely do much during the day- time. one's if illness is to be avoided. might be added. for in tropical Africa. and in doing big game living hunting. Then. or whether one up watching by the side of water hole or runway. and releases flash and camera at the proper moment. whether with camera or one's nerves be in very this is rifle. infinitely more interesting method of watching the all night. cameras and firing from a distance when the animals were in the desired position and place. it is highly desirable that best it good condition. as in strength must be maintained in full vigor is is hot countries. if one is limited in time. Whether the device one uses is automatic. no one can have any idea of the . and. necessary to indulge in the very fullest allowall ance of sleep. on the generally high altitude of British East Africa has a tendency to affect the nerves. so that sits the animals take their own photographs. but. A man fever of course in a much more nearly immune from than one its who run-down condition. The way to secure to have abundant sleep and exercise. and resorting to the more trying. Prob- ably no branch of photography offers greater possibilities for pleasure and excitement.
otherwise they will not come near the cameras. or. and curdles our blood with suddenly disturbed. best of all. wonder what might happen if he should become the beautiful zebra. for even with the most scrupulous care there is usually something that will betray the presence of man to the keenly alert creatures. They are extremely suspicious of any place that has been recently frequented by man. One cannot tell what will come within range of the camera the lowly jackal that approaches so quietly that his presence is seldom betrayed. makes him a much-desired object it camera. game for the photographic bag. the possibilities photography may be found at its are almost unlimited. whose petulant snorting leads the watcher to too inquisitive. and the variety of animal life as varied as the most ambitious could wish. There must be some strong attraction for the animals. 49 allurements of this form of sport unless he has undergone the experi- Apart from the animals themselves. Then again. the conditions most wonderfully favorable. the mighty rhinoceros. there is something so delightful in being out in the mysterious night. so that a water hole. may be the stealthy. which offers perhaps the greatest of inducements to the wild beasts. and that in itself as a sport offers an advantage over any kind of shooting. flashlight his roaring retreats after being The one thing is absolutely necessary for successful photography the selection of a suitable place.FLASHLIGHTS ON THE YATA PLAINS ence. is when the great world it is erroneously believed to be in a state of slumber. though . whereas the searching light of day vanishes that so life only when much all of the animal creatures are world awakes to and activity. whose strongly marked coat for the lion. flashlight In British East Africa very best. silent-footed who comes when he without warning. is one of the best possible fields of operation.
and having firearms ready for immediate use. lookout. we made everything absolutely ready before darkness Any appliances that might be required were placed where they could be easily reached. When working in a country where lions and other dangerous creatures are a constant menace to the sportsman every precaution must be taken to protect oneself against possible trouble. in case fire to the dry grass. especially be one of their own killing. lighted the country as only a tropical moon . opening. and existence. not comparative. covered with a heavy blanket. then at its full. It frequently happens that an animal may be within a few yards. On the evening of our first attempt set in. safe. so that there will be no incentive to move at a critical moment. To ensure this one must be comfortable. we A very important consideration in flashlight photography that of quietness. This small opening means but by keeping a sharp felt fairly is liable to an attack from lions. therefore when engaged thorn bushes in watching flashlight cameras a well-built boma of is desirable. and soon after the sun had set we settled ourselves for our first night's watching. its when you are not aware of presence. and covered with thorn bush except at the This was left open to admit of free passage.5o for the carnivora a if it CAMERA ADVENTURES dead animal is most likely to attract. The slightest sound will betray your off he will go. The moon. we could move slightly without making the least noise. for there is always the chance that one the flashlight sets that one is may have to rush out in a hurry. watching suspiciously. We found that by using a thick layer of grass. We built ours of stout poles placed in the form of a tepee. but absolute noiselessness. What a splendid night it was! Scarcely a breeze stirred the air.
not but nevertheless rare animals. fearing each time that they would not return. is true. it eyes. or the peaceful quiet. For a couple of hours we watched without result. such a in stillness had experienced only the winter nights all among the northern forests when the deep snow deadens sounds. would disturb the move sounded alarmingly loud. They did not come directly to the water. Again and again happened. even our breathing made us wonder the sharp-eared animals could not hear us. until at last some indistinct forms began It was a small herd of Coke's hartebeest. I 51 as The stillness was almost overpowering. but slightest Our about nine o'clock we heard sounds of approaching footsteps. taking the other animals with him. In vain we strained our to take shape. we were greatly excited as we watched them coming nearer and nearer. For over an hour I held the electric button in . There was not even Occasionally in the buzzing of nocturnal insects to distract one. but approached with the utmost caution. thrilling roar of a lion. the maniacal howl of the hyena. they were What we could not tell for some time. A wild animal that would live long must go slow when he knows not what is ahead.FLASHLIGHTS ON THE YATA PLAINS can. stopping every few steps to scrutinize the pool and its surroundings. then as a frog or make a noise in or near the water away he would this go. and so these hartebeest came on at a Occasionally one pace which was to us most tantalizingly slow. would leave the herd and come bird would close to the pool. Who could tell shadows of the what enemy might be crouching in the deep gray rocks and bushes! Any one of those small mounds or clumps of grass might in reality be a lion or a leopard ready to spring on one. thirsty though they probably were. the distance the queer dog-like barking of the zebra. and we were kept in breathless suspense.
and badly frightened by the report. and fade into oblivion. satisfied apparently with their investigations. we visited the cameras. changed the to wait for plates.52 CAMERA ADVENTURES my hand ready at any instant to release the flash. to my great delight. to drink. keep us long hill in suspense. reset the flash lamp. blinded no doubt by the brilliancy of the light. and before the animals had time to move two photographs had been made. so that the pattern was wonderfully conspicuous. Instantly the scene was lighted by the powerful blue-white flash. . armed with lamp and rifle. as there was every reason to believe the pictures would prove satisfactory. When at last. the distant little Scarcely an hour had passed before we heard There sounds of footsteps and crunching of grass. They did and soon we heard them coming down not the behind. came straight to the pool. and what a sight they About one hundred and thirty of the beautiful striped creatures. On they came without hesitating until they were within about forty yards. presented! Zebra they surely were. which. then. Away went the bewildered herd. marked coats glistening in the clear strike moon- One moment the light would them. for the night was still young. owing to the quietness of the night. their strangely light. for they are noisy feeders. scarcely I realizing what was doing pressed the button. the animals. It is not necessary to add that we were thoroughly delighted. they would become merged in the gray of the landscape. and standing directly in front of the I two cameras began drinking. it was doubt that was zebra. sounded unusually loud. turning slightly. Other animals might come so. and returned to the boma what might come. correct. for I We to hoped our surmise would prove was very anxious obtain photographs of these animals by flashlight.
but whatever might have been the cause. but his courage. was that the cameras were not had gotten our scent. and stood still for a few moments. dwindled when he felt himself alone. yet like seemed unreal. and for five hours more they kept us in a state of nervous excitement. too. It sufficiently well hidden. Sometimes the whole herd came within thirty or forty yards of the water hole. one taunting another. One could not it picture imagine anything more beautiful. slowly advanced. came forward a few he stopped. would urge him to do things that he himself was afraid to do. I 53 their their It dark noses would be the only evidence of was unquestionably the most superb animal have ever had the good fortune to see. with a sudden and belated idea that he was no coward. but the zebra proved even more so. then one. It reminded one of a lot of boys each daring the other to do some act of supposed bravery. more courageous than or the others. We had thought the suspicious. If one could but photograph such a it scene in be! delicacy of tone and color.FLASHLIGHTS ON THE YATA PLAINS Sometimes existence. We were unable to discern the cause of the zebra's Perhaps it remarkable caution. steps. then they all disappeared for a time. for neither camera nor even brush can reproduce the wonders of moonlight and its hartebeest mysterious nameless colors. and was far more a dream than a all its reality. and after looking ahead at the dark shades about the water hole he turned with nervous haste and scampered back to his companions. what a triumph would But such pictures are only seen in nature. but fear taking possession of his timid heart After a few minutes another. or that they seemed scarcely possible that under ordinary conditions they five hours in coming to would spend water. their suspicions were so thoroughly aroused that they finally .
and as the noise of the had frightened away the animals. so we settled ourselves down to what we hoped would prove a good night's sport. Unfortunately the sky had clouded over. The them. but after walking about and examining the ground near the water hole.54 CAMERA ADVENTURES all gave up idea of visiting the water hole. Unlike those of the previous night they scarcely hesitated. so we were at a loss to under- stand the failure. . we finally decided to use We returned to the shelter in a somewhat dis- couraged frame of mind to await the next comers. they departed without satisfying their thirst. Toward midnight a small herd of zebra came. and with the fullest pressed the button expectation of securing a fine photograph. and vanished in the dim light of the early dawn. There had been no shutter change since the outfit had been tested. We concealed the cameras more carefully with reeds so that no animal could detect tested. as the flash in circuit. The electric device was thoroughly and everything appeared to be in perfect working order. To my utter disgust the flash refused to light. whatever they might be. so that as would not work when both the cameras were we were unable only one camera. ahead. to remedy the trouble. and after a brief examination of the place began One came drinking. so that we no longer had the brilliant moon to light the scene of operations. we went out to see what could be the cause of the disappointment. when the country was shrouded in darkness. About an hour before daylight. Apparently something was wrong. Later on some hartebeest arrived on the scene. I They were in a splendid position for a picture. The others immediately followed his example. following night saw us again at our post.
H Bi o O a! O O r 3 .
for several times during the night only we had heard one out was to roaring not very far away. and see that each part of the apparatus perfect order.FLASHLIGHTS ON THE YATA PLAINS I 55 it heard the sound of water being lapped. the wretched apparatus fails at moment. as responds immediately and noiseless. but it was evidently neither antelope nor zebra. The flash feelings went off immediately. as they drink as a horse does. at the critical through forgetting some minute but important actually test it detail. but it is unfortunately deranged in the knocking about which things are It is to almost bound to have on "safari. Often we would repeatedly in every possible way with perfectly satisfactory results. many opportunities One may take every moment. and so did the animal. be. it Inexcusable carelessness it was without doubt. The flashlight device seemed to be governed by the spirit of trouble. fail there are for possible preis caution beforehand. but must be allowed that working at cameras on a dark night with lions roaring around is apt to make one somewhat hasty in attending to the many and somewhat intricate details of a flashlight device. My can be better imagined than described I when on going to reset the camera discovered the fact that the slide had not been drawn from the plate holder. in and then. almost without a noise. The it electric device is it unquestionably the best of is methods when which is works. The make a photograph. I What animal might be could not tell. or still Hyena it might more likely a lion. for some the all animal last come within range. It is really quite remarkable how failure in animal photography. and then. to after waiting for hours. a over-easily most important consideration. so I pressed the way to find button." will be hoped that some one eventually design an apparatus for flashlight work that will . or even nights.
while watching the careful approach of a small herd of hartebeest. for every time she chased immediately have a drink. and retired from the scene. and after carefully investigating the vicinity of the pool began drinking. but the old one continued drinking intermittently for two hours. it so that when several cameras are used together is almost impossible to secure absolute synchronism. What her reason was for objecting to the other animals having a drink no one could say. arrival of a jackal. was badly frightened by the sudden and we saw no more of her. which had come as silently as a ghost. One night. The yearling very soon satisfied his thirst. and these. and they are not instantaneous. yet light enough to work on the field. away. she drove A small herd of zebra came. we were surprised to see them suddenly bolt with wonderful speed just as they reached the water. The harte- . but she was absolutely determined in her selfishness. and must have taken far more water than she could any animal away she would possibly need. however.56 be both simple and CAMERA ADVENTURES effective. During this time three other hartebeest appeared. One night we were much interested in watching the peculiar behavior of an old doe hartebeest. too. She came with her yearling fawn. but every time they came near the water the fractious old doe drove them away. Mechanical devices are nearly always too noisy to be used with perfect satisfaction. Finally she I Later in the night secured a photograph of four hartebeest slight which came with very hesitation. For several nights we watched the water hole without very satisfactory results. The cause of their fright soon appeared in the shape of a spotted hyena. A more ill-natured old creature I have never seen. as the animals were extremely shy.
and plays the part of scavenger and thief. and distinguished the only ones entitled to burial. Burial by the natives of most of the East African tribes is very rare. the big "cats. On this account the natives not kill these tombs of their people. In one of the pictures the indistinct forms of the hartebeest are visible in the background. which are so powerful that they are said bone around which their teeth to be able to crunch any yet. so as the end approaches is the wretched creature carried out and placed under a tree (if one is convenient). unlike their can close. away from the village. meat in the last stages of decay. unless it be wounded. Nothing is too disgusting for it. to chiefs. but after a few minutes reappeared. and close relations. they prefer to wait for those that are dead or dying. The hyena alarmed that that frightened away the hartebeest was himself so he slunk away. and though they will sometimes attack children. but ran as soon as they realized was near. being about Many of the tribes believe that have any one die in a hut brings bad luck. being eaten with apparent relish. and even offal. Human flesh finds favor with them. mothers of very large families. . Evidently they do not appear to realize their true that power.FLASHLIGHTS ON THE YATA PLAINS that an animal 57 beest did not wait to investigate. to be devoured will by the "living hyenas. and as he pool I fired the flash stood suspiciously examining the and secured two photographs. which probably never attacks any wild creature. As a matter of fact they had no reason to be afraid of the despised hyena." It is strange that the hyenas should be such miserable cowards. though it is most of their strength is in their jaws." they will almost starve rather than attack a living creature. but prowls about. old people who have lost their teeth. ghoul-like.
Photo- . and the men had seen several. we were aroused by the magic word "Simba" (Swahili The men had been out for wood. hastily dressed rifles for lion). we could not understand how was that we had seen none. in a little Without waiting to ask many questions we had and started in the direction of the gully. greatly excited On reaching the place where the lions had been seen we found a small and nearly dry stream. while gathering firewood As lions invariably it drink soon after feeding. my companions and we were myself were extremely anxious to secure a lion's skin. My companion took one side and with my camera bearer the other. Evidently there must be other water about. making stones into the thicket. begged me to shoot. Nearly every many in the neighborhood was only night we heard them roaring. after having been up night. That it was a lion there seemed no doubt. and followed by almost Both our men. for the fact that there too clear. and at the prospect before us. and had seen two lions gully not far away. notwithstanding our guide's assurance to the contrary. all while taking our much-needed sleep. for should the beast decide to spring there would be an extremely good chance for trouble. as promised backsheesh for information leading to either the photographing or shooting of lions. in a high state of excitement. the noise they could and throwing was not long before something began to move in the papyrus within a few yards of me. evidently a first-rate cover for the animals. One morning.58 CAMERA ADVENTURES We were somewhat surprised that no lions were visited the water hole. The men. all armed with I and cameras. all The men followed close behind. Accordingly I we determined to try a beat. It and at that distance there was no time to lose. in which was a dense growth of papyrus.
(FLASHLIGHT.\ I' IN H 'AN BE DIMLY SEEN IN COMING TO THE WATER TO DRINK FRIGHTENED AWAY SOME HARTEBEEST THE BACKGROUND. YATA PLAINS) .
again I fired. was to take the lion. and was wondering when. Neither of us had ever seen a wild lion before. and while several of the men were securely. I was just wondering what had happened when. and moving grass. the two animals turned tail and ignominiously disappeared over the hill. As there it concluded was every reason to suppose they would return. and our well be imagined. bolted with still more haste than dignity. for the growls of the cub as it fought its captors could be clearly heard for several hundred yards. there was a crashing sound. I lion had the very questionable pleasure of seeing an immense and lioness approaching. had better shoot at once. to our utter disgust. It was a queer experience. Then there was great excitement. trusting to luck. all Nearly the men. while we stood watching the mighty beasts as they watched feelings us. standing there holding an infuriated lion cub. may Of course no possible way of avoiding an attack. though nothing was visible. as the youngster hands gave chase. Scarcely had the sound of the shot died away when It to our surprise out rushed a lion cub directly all toward my companion. following the primal instinct. If ever there was an opportunity for trouble we surely had it. We were very anxious helping to tie it keep it alive. not more than four yards away. we would be best for us to take advantage of a comfortable- .FLASHLIGHTS ON THE YATA PLAINS graphing wa. I fired into the and though there was no sound of any struggle the motion ceased. was not long before it was caught. and a savage to little brute proved to be. 59 so. and drawing lots for we thought there was and we drew lots for who choice of shots. whether I I won the draw. while the huge black-maned lion and his mate were not more than two hundred yards away.s out of the question. or wait for a closer shot.
I decided to take I my place alone in a small tree. add itself to our dismay the unfortunate cub died.60 CAMERA ADVENTURES Using the camera from the ground was impossi- looking tree. much of a low-standing to the tree animal such as a The struggling cub was carried its we selected. in the hope that growling would bring the parents within range of the cameras. then the moment one moves the long-waited-for animal arrives. My him camera bearer had climbed the the outfit. It actually killed seventy-five to by struggling. the black-maned fifty lion and two lionesses. reached it. I had not gone half-way before my companion called out. The noise made by the men as they struggled for the few available trees presumably To frightened the lions. I finally seemed as though that tree were only too far away. directly over where had fired the shots. tree. when I had the pleasure of seeing the two lionesses standing close together. One waits for hours and nothing happens. not seventy-five yards away. and I was about to pass when to my I surprise three lions came in sight. and as that it seemed me would be better thorn to be nearer. owing -o the high grass which concealed so lion. so my rifle and camera I started off. ble. and however. One shot with a solid bullet would have gone through . and so once more we were disappointed. I it cannot say that there was any undue lingering on my part. They were about two hundred and a good long-distance picture yards away. was in the act of changing the ordinary lens for the telephoto in order to get when they retreated. The tree we were in was about it yards from where the cub had been found. "Here comes the lion!" That with is the way things go in animal photography. and had just wriggled my way through the thorns to one of the lower branches. from which both photographing and shooting would be more satisfactory.
my acting on the Judging by the conditions. as greatly reduced the chances of seeing the old ones. they jumped some high grass and bolted as hard as they could. not knowing anything into about our lion lion hunt. I held the cameras pointed at the lioness. shots We Had found that it my had killed two cubs. moment the lion came when before I realized what had happened. and I also wished myself a little farther from the ground. and we should have been practically sure of an opportunity to secure some photographs. During the rest of the afternoon there was no further excitement. we finally decided to spend part of the night in the tree on the chance of getting a shot or two. and perhaps my companion might get a lioness or two. he came directly between the and the two lionesses. but I wished that bush was out of the way. As it happened. expecting every instant to see the lion emerge from behind a large bush near which the tawny pair were standing. As there seemed nothing better to do. For about three minutes I watched the splendid creatures. and among fewer thorns. Five feet from the It time was close at hand. they been alive the parents would certainly have come to feed them. and all three went off. and I 61 was sorely tempted to fire. It appeared that one of the men had been off after honey. and had some . and even have a chance of a shot as well. there seemed that I to be every probability should have an opportunity of securing a photograph of him. ready to press the button the in sight. ground is too close for complete comfort. and when they turned their heads and looked back I felt sure the was very exciting. and so we sent the men away. but the thought that the big lion was behind prevented impulse. which was most unfortunate.FLASHLIGHTS ON THE YATA PLAINS both of their shoulders.
62 CAMERA ADVENTURES We were thoroughly tired supper brought to us about sunset. We I could see nothing. for there was no moon. Thinking that if I I might possibly be able I to distinguish the big animals were nearer the ground. and oh. We heard them going through the papyrus. The lions were not far away. thorny branches to eat our meal. a start that I The sudden noise gave it me such nearly fell off the branch. It really seemed as though they would never reach the papyrus. and had nothing at day. to show for the extremely tiring We had been very much surprised at their behavior. While I was peering into the darkness. just as one of the lions was passing not more than twelve or fourteen feet away. and a darker night have never known. yards away. so we as possible on quickly settled ourselves as comfortably the hard. cautiously descended to the lowest branch. a few steps at the time. and we heard their low purring as they crept through the papyrus. trying in vain to see something. having had nothing fast. for fifty they stopped when about one hundred and until darkness set in. and remained there Then we heard them coming so slowly! through the dry grass. stopping once to drink. Many . but unfortunately they did not come near us again. It with a thud beneath me. Scarcely had we comcoming menced when in in the dim twilight we saw the lion and lioness our direction. which was not more than eight feet from the ground. and we had the mortification of lions realizing that though we had seen we had lost every opportunity for both shooting and photoall graphing. I was badly startled by a loaf of bread which the meal directly I had left on a branch when fell had been so suddenly interrupted. and incidently frightened away the lions. Unfortunately they must have seen us move. and to eat since six o'clock breakextremely hungry.
THESE THREE 1 DOWN WIND TO GET OUR F.PHOTOGRAPHS TAKEN IN QUICK SUCCESSION SHOW THE RHINOCEROS: SCENT. (2) STOPPING TO LISTEN.LF. (3) FACING US AS HE HEARS THE SOUND OF THE SHUTTER (l) WALKING .
and even he did not wait long enough to be photographed. As we had devoted most arrival at the of our time to flashlight work since our seeing the we had not had much opportunity for country around us. and many a time did we hold our ready to protect ourselves against enemies which proved to be harmless shadows. cheerful. they would calmly allow their young to rescue it. and some fairly fresh tracks of buffalo. There were the usual scattered thorn trees to break the monotony. So we took a day off to see what Yata Plains. I might be found. but though we spent the night in careful watching lions. bushes. sleep.FLASHLIGHTS ON THE YATA PLAINS times have I 63 seen moose and deer. or even rabbits. along the beds of the streams . and ant-hills took rifles on strange shapes. or Never did the camp look more all bed more alluring. knowing that at least three lions were about. another. As we were too tired to prolong our vigil we only waited for the its soft light moon we to rise before returning to camp. and even with did not feel particularly comfortable. going in one direction and I my companion in saw nothing but an occasional herd of impala or hartebeest. display much greater solicitude for their young than I could scarcely believe that was shown by those lions. and that two of them were in anything but an amiable frame of mind. we neither saw nor heard any Our only visitor was a spotted hyena. with many dry water-courses. stones In our excited and tired condition. I found that the country northwest of the Yata Plains was slightly For several hours rolling. to be captured without listening to its cries making any attempt even after for help. and not the lions in Africa could have disturbed our night's looking the water hole in Next day we built a boma overwhich the lions had been heard to drink.
our big friend became very uneasy and proceeded to inform the other four. and it was decidedly comical Apparently to see the five ungainly *This experience clashes with that of are never seen together. Presumably these people must expeditions into the country periodically to collect the honey. was something wrong. trying to discover what and where the danger might asleep. especially as rifle we only had a .64 CAMERA ADVENTURES and the fragrance was very refreshing. that there be. I might have in to shoot quickly. we moved toward suspicious. Evidently there at the I wrong season. consisting simply of hollow logs. a well-known hunter and writer. and instructing ently very good. The chance rifle photograph was apparcamera. animals actually rubbing noses. had almost given up looking for the queer beasts. for a so were not discovered. Once they all came together. partly closed at both ends. there were no fewer than The prospect was anything but alluring. were hung in the trees. which had the meantime become was somewhat of a surprise to five. Wakamba make beehives.* find that. Here and there the these trees were in bloom. but rather While I was debating in my mind as to the best method of procedure. who declares that more than four rhinos . Swarms of bees were busy gathering honey.275 a weapon powerful enough for most work. for up to this time we had seen only one. Fortunately we were working up wind. In Nairobi we had been told we should we were find the Yata Plains fairly alive with rhinoceros. then walked about. instead of one rhinoceros. which had been small for stopping a charging rhinoceros. They all stood up. in the event of a charge. so was much surprised when we nearly ran on top of a big fellow in who was standing in a drowsy sort of way the shade of a tree. for. but we saw no natives of any kind during our stay. so exchanging the the for the man to stay close by. It the big beast.
PHOTOGRAPHED WITH A SINGLE LENS AND GREATLY ENLARGED .[ - III! \ME RHINO AS SHOWN ON THE PREVIOUS PLATE.
hundred and yards is practically beyond Their sense of smell very keen. and the situation would result in a tree-climbing making another exposure. He me come within about it twenty-five yards. have ever seen. for smell. anything farther than about one their range of vision. too. utes. but very much surprised at their behavior. in order contest for us . he bolted toward the other four. leaving me somewhat delighted. and changed the telephoto lens for a more rapid one. I crawled to a convenient tree as rapidly as possible. Once there I felt more comfortable. fifty As is it is. and then. even though the horns were not His hide entirely was free in splendid condition. then walking a few steps ahead. If he should charge. By good luck. I made another exposure. however. keeping one eye the time on the suspicious creature. . instead of coming directly I he went to one side. We to stood eyeing each other for some minI but as I found the tension anything but pleasant. and it 65 ended in the biggest one being sent to reconnoitre. and as he came slowly along very carefully approached to within less than forty yards. from scars and blemishes. the others would probably come. This time he located the sound I of the shutter. and wonderfully clean and smooth. getting a good broadside view. He was one of the finest specimens I large. stopped again. allowed tried to stalk him. being unable to stand any longer. toward us. Then I made an and exposure. It is just as well for one's comfort that the poor old beasts are so nearly blind. and felt confess that I all uncomfortable as I changed plates. and away they all went. so.FLASHLIGHTS ON THE YATA PLAINS they were discussing the situation. after to be ready for a charge. and turned straight toward me. At the sound of the shutter he stopped. if they were able to see as well as they hear and they would be extremely dangerous.
after a certain writer has declared cal impossibility. This at least has been my experience. enemies except man.66 CAMERA ADVENTURES their hearing fairly so. they are more than likely to pass on. remarkable. if and have few. It seems incredible that such clumsy-looking creatures can attain the speed they do. When there more than one of the big brutes it is unwise to trust to dodging. but I do not . as they frequently do. then a sudden jump safe. and so have small need of anything disturbs or annoys them. and. trot. In such cases they usually whereas when they mean mischief. in a As already stated. If you move too soon the rhinoceros It is of the utmost importance that the ground be examined before any holes. but their agility in turning is really When their charging they usually lack the fiendish persistence of such if animals as the buffalo. to be a practi- Yet I have seen it done with perfect success. is comparatively easily killed. as in many places it is honey-combed with and is to fall into one would prove decidedly disastrous. move is made. or smell come to see what it is. not only do they go fast. and no move must be made at animal to is within about two or most three yards. The question of how to avoid a charge is open to dispute. to Of course it requires coolness and favorable conditions until the begin with. they is When charge lumbering sort of way that very deceptive. though has been said that they never gallop unless wounded. Frequently their so-called charges are not charges at something. and I almost hesitate it to advise dodging. notits withstanding size. Curiously enough the rhinoceros. and they fail to strike the object of ponderous attention the first time. hear. one side should will prove absolutely turn. Shooting is far more safe. They see. to satisfy their curiosity. they more often gallop with it tail erect. all. keenness. the big creatures any.
as they will in most cases turn if struck on the shoulder or the nose.FLASHLIGHTS ON THE YATA PLAINS believe that it is 67 often necessary to shoot to kill. A solid bullet of about . . We it even tried buckshot with a twelve-bore shotgun with success. but can scarcely be relied upon.450 calibre point of the will kill instantly if properly placed. as we found to our cost when we tried to turn the last one mentioned in the Olgerei trip. while a soft size will usually same cause the animal to turn.
all in full 68 we growth of rather small thorn bloom. for in three and a half hours we heard the refresh- ing sound of running water. and as we were we anxious to be making our way farther north before the rains. We were surprised to see no aquatic birds.CHAPTER V FROM THE YATA PLAINS TO SIMBA CAMP NEAR THE TANA RIVER. as the day was hot. Tana and Thika where we had been given to understand there was an abun- dance of game of many kinds. and anything . decided to leave the Yata Plains and go toward the rivers. BEING STALKED BY TWO LIONS IN THE DAYTIME THERE did not seem to be very much chance of doing any more satisfactory work in the vicinity of the water hole. followed animal paths which led through a fairly thick trees. kinds of brilliant flowering creepers covered every available bush and branch. while here and there masses of the beautiful feathery papyrus lined the shores. and a halt was called so that we all might enjoy a cool wash. We found the river more There were a few palms. at a point where it passed Boulder Hill. for the place seemed thoroughly suited to them. proved incorrect. almost hidden in the thick overhanging trees. So on the I4th of March we broke camp and headed for the Thika River. The walk for miles along the side of the river was thoroughly delightful. like most of his information. Our guide told us that we should not reach the river in less it than seven or eight hours. PHOTOGRAPHING LIONS AT CLOSE RANGE BY FLASHLIGHT. but. and many or less tropical in appearance.
BUT PHOTOGRAPHED FROM A DIFFERENT POSITION .THE SAME LION AS SHOWN IN FRONTISPIECE.
Surrounding were many so it was . Under it the shade really of the sweet-smelling trees the air was deliciously cool. and so delightfully On the north side of the that we both wanted to have a swim. So off he went after followed loudly expressing his utter disapproval of us. had lain down to enjoy his regular after-dinner sleep. and. none bloom. and occasionally a company of baboons could be seen in the distance. but eventually lost the spoor in a dense. like was a fine spring day at home than the so-called African There were not many animals about. It was little we found the country of which were in more open. after having his meal. our whereabouts by the angry growl of a not fifty yards away. and occasionally a big rhinoceros would go off with a petulant grunt as he heard the sound of man. He had had evidently to the river for a drink. him coming along. vegetation. It is usually considered unwise to wade rivers in tropical countries. Shortly after noon we came across a fair-sized rhinoceros in a clear piece of ground which had evidently been a resting place waterbuck or impala.PHOTOGRAPHING LIONS AT CLOSE RANGE more untropical could more scarcely 69 be imagined. "jungle" a few miles south of the equator. temptacool river more than waist deep. resist the but we found the water so alluring that we could not tion. his when we. finding the cool shade of the trees to his liking. Then as we reached a suitable fording place we were brought come down rather suddenly to a realization of lion. with larger and fewer trees. only a few impala and waterbuck. or perhaps was entirely devoid of trees. while here and there a little duiker or dikdik would dart away in nervous haste. disturbed Royal Highness. There were a good many waterbuck. as this clearing it for harte- beest. dry thicket. for We some distance.
Never seen them miss a chance of washing. Just as was going to press the button. I was about rushed toward us.7o CAMERA ADVENTURES way I in every a good place for photographing. while my camera bearer. which presumably had heard us. a regular cannonade was fired right at my It elbow. if could simply threaten fire men with the rigor of the law ever they dared to again without my orders. nor give I me the the photograph that I wanted so much. Both askaris. had lost their heads and was indeed a wonder that they had not killed me. My attention was so entirely concentrated on the suspicious animal. It is not often that I one sees a rhino clear of all grass or other obstruction. as so could wait near a tree until the last this moment. tion could neither bring My indigna- back to life the poor old creature. even when they have . for the night We made have camped on the banks of the Thika. carried my Mauser. gun and camera bearers. as I had been almost directly between them and the rhinoceros. of the rhinoceros after a little We to got within about eighteen yards careful stalking. I had not noticed that two askaris were following. With idea in view I held the camera I at the approaching animal. and down went the wretched brute. as well as the fired. Fully believing he would run away. focussing carefully. and the men by spending hours in the water. satisfactory make an exposure when he suddenly Here then was a perfect chance to make a really I photograph of a charge. the rhino being but ten yards away. and make the picture at very close range. My companion had the heavy rifle to be used in case of emergency. following close behind me. so to determined do what could in the way of securing a good picture. the most of the opportunity It is quite extraordinary I how fond the Negroes are of bathing.
One thing which surprised me was the absence of miles before est of the hartebeest. including the porters. Our guide was rule they are quite the common- taking us to where he said we should find water in abundance. We also saw one herd of fifteen giraffe. cleanly in their personal habits. which in the rainy season larly must be raging torrents.PHOTOGRAPHING LIONS AT CLOSE RANGE to 71 to get go a long distance to the water. particu- among the "sugar bushes. as the we had experienced and we were all It We had we had the choice of digging for water or continuthe way we reached Tana. march had been thoroughly ing our tired. A . and though hard I could not get within photographing distance of them. They even consider our custom of using a toothbrush a most uncleanly habit. We had walked perhaps twenty we saw any. crossing innumerable dry water-courses. in fact sign of water in the sixteen miles or so that we covered. till the hottest was very disappointing. The march we saw no to our next camp was along very dry country. though as a animals." game was I tried fairly numerous. stealing without the slightest compunction Generally speaking. In several places so of course seen the footprints of lions in the dry sand. a couple of hours farther on. who mostly Swahilis. according to their careful of their teeth. They are particularly and spend a great deal of time cleaning them with a sort of soap wood. we were only too anxious to stay where we were. however. are I if it is not carefully locked up. In some places. as the We kept close to the foothills of the irregular range known Ithanga Mountains. but all when we arrived at the place we found was a very small pool of dark green substance which could scarcely be called water. found the natives. They were very wild. it They will do anything hold of soap. especially waterbuck. own ideas.
and if sounds meant anything we should certainly find opportunities in the neighborhood. The following day we built a thorn boma twelve yards away from flashlight a freshly killed zebra. I took the first my head on the ground. and dark heavy clouds hung low so that the darkness was almost overwhelming. which at one time were very near. scarcely one and a half inches long. which was animals in East Africa the lion was music in our ears. It was be prowling about. and lay with really just the sort of night for lions to to the popular idea. however. There was scarcely any wind. While digging in sandy gravel we found a number of very small toads. The next night we were less hopeful. which this filtered slowly through the coarse sand. Nothing happened. careful examination of the stream bed had been digging we followed their example. .72 CAMERA ADVENTURES showed where some animals for water. to break the monotony of the long watch except the roars of lions. in order that I might perhaps be able to see any approaching animal against the very indistinct sky-line. notwithstanding the fact that the conditions seemed very favorable. There was no moon. of a kind I had never seen before. in the sky. according watch. first night in From every camp was made interesting by the roaring of direction came the gruesome sound. and soon had the satisfaction of finding a very fair supply of clear cold water. so I rather hoped that I should hear anything coming. Our lions. Near this two cameras and the were placed. which was dry and scorching hot. and when night came we entered the thorny shelter with great hope in our hearts. for of all the the one which I wanted most to photograph. They burrowed with the greatest ease until they were below the upper sand.
for what should we do if he attacked us After a flashlight goes off one can see nothing for several minutes. and scarcely dared reach over to companion and whisper the word "lion. He I discovered him. and how he could possibly have come without beasts. Occasionally they moved farther away. so that the lion might anything until he was on top of us. I As far as I could judge the big creature was staring at us. The thrill of excitement was beyond words. Much as I wanted a photograph my I felt almost afraid to ? fire the flash. off beyond reach of the cameras. late. ready for this the lion effort While we were getting seized the zebra. I pressed the we both The two shots rang out simullight. the king of in Africa. and then began roaring in a manner that made us most uncomfortable. It was not long before he was joined by his mate. and the two kept up the most frightful roars I had ever heard." Fortunately he awoke without making any noise.PHOTOGRAPHING LIONS AT CLOSE RANGE For about two hours I 73 ears. and each . but most of the time they stayed within a hundred to two hundred yards. not twelve all most feared animal yards away. electric flash release we hurriedly took aim. and as fired. taneously with the explosion of the powerful but whether or not the lion was hit we could not tell. and leaning gently over me he had his first look at the animal. come without our knowing when shooting would be too We finally decided that the best plan would be for us both to shoot as I pressed the electric button. the Yet there he stood. He only went about one hundred yards away. had been straining both eyes and a I when suddenly to my astonishment was standing close to the zebra when could not understand being seen or heard. and without the slightest Fearing that he would carry it turned it round. huge first lion appeared.
My delight was unbounded when on I examining the negatives after they came out of the developer that I found had really secured two satisfactory photographs of a pretty fair-sized lion at a distance of twelve yards. but in the awe-inspiring darkness of night it was much more so. enjoy crawling out of the flashlight. also believed the theory when the conditions were such as we were We realized that the lions knew we were It there.74 CAMERA ADVENTURES we expected lion time as the sounds would come closer the brutes were coming for us. as could scarcely wait to develop the plates. I gleam of dawn we started for camp. In theory that generally true. enjoy the continual roars which lasted during the greater part of the night. and I for one was only too glad when it was accomplished. would have been exciting enough by day. So far as we could judge there were about five lions altogether. however. and we were safely back Once there we could more comfortably in the shelter of the thorns. his eyes being as good then as in the clear . Those who have not gone through and determined a creature as a the experience cannot imagine the sensation of being at such very close quarters with so powerful It lion. but the sounds No more came With the first near the come from every direction. but we had had a night of as great excitement as the most ambitious might wish. Not only had the pictures been secured. We one of them to be wounded. as one knows that for the lion there is no night. but is hard to believe in experiencing. cameras. It was no wonder then that we did not in boma order to reset the cameras and was a thoroughly disagreeable job. so we had to be content seemed to with the two exposures which had been made simultaneously. It is all very well to say that is when a means mischief he keeps it quiet.
his What a life any way the hyena simply melted into such a creature must live Ever afraid of in ! own shadow. The proximof the zebra was anything but agreeable. and their that. ity When at times the breeze veered round. afraid. Everything frightened him. which came several times. and vanish If. putrid meat which is fresh. much dreaded as the sound of the and when we moved the darkness. shunned by for the carrion beast. 75 We to found it difficult to wait for the day to pass. and carried the offensive odor it toward us. but our luck was not to con- it had begun. away would the sneaking creature go. Instead of lions we had to be content with Constantly watching a miserable hyena. For the benefit of those who wish it lions. all animals save the jackal. with filthy whom he sometimes associates in his feasts. greedily for gulp down a lump of torn flesh or entrails. We knew that both to that hyenas and jackals prefer. The whirr of the wings of some nocturnal bird appeared to be as lions. is unquestionably preferred. a lion roared. so eager were we tinue as be at the lion work again. some time stood before venturing to return for another piece. as a rule. when he near the carcase. we may judge by his hang-dog expression and skulking ways. The next night we were again on duty in the boma. but killed they will not refuse to come to an animal by man. would seem that the be it fresh or old. he would come to the carcase after much hesitation. whether . No one has a good word if and he appears to feel the world's attitude. or appear to prefer. I lion's can say that from our experience kill. was all we could do to stand it. they would disdain anything which was not of to try baiting own own killing. but we had been told that lions were more particular. and we wondered if lions would deign to touch meat that was in such a state.PHOTOGRAPHING LIONS AT CLOSE RANGE sunshine.
when I was startled by a heavy thud. and was lying with nights. I was. The hour at which food is taken till is absolutely far irregular and uncertain. they had retired without waiting to argue mighty hunter. and I was beginning to think my conjecture was wrong. and were afraid to begin their meal. buffalo being their favorites. It they suddenly vanished. as two lions landed on the zebra. and I believe the earlier half of the night to be preferred to the later half. as usual. no matter he might he. rather than heard. Evidently they could smell us. . while the spring it. the point with the Some time elapsed. is show marked preference I for certain flesh. as had done on the previous Scarcely anything could be distinguished in the darkness.76 it CAMERA ADVENTURES has been handled or not. I my head on the ground. any time from sunset dawn being more common than during the day. while hartebeest perhaps the least desired. Discretion being their mind. Without any apparent reason seemed more than likely that a lion was very much to and they had gotten wind of him. and to or was trying decide whether a dark object some distance away was an animal a bush when I felt. and my respect for them increased greatly. rhinoceros and. taking the I first watch. Evidently they had stalked the carcase as though it were a living beast. am told. and crouching low had been invisible against the sky-line. For about half an hour they remained in sight. some creature moving near the dead zebra. had been so quick that I could not have seen silent The stealthy and absolutely approach of these two big beasts through the parched grass realize with made me how alert what ease they could stalk a man. It should not be forgotten that they zebra. With the aid of the night glass I made out the forms of a hyena and two jackals prowling about. in the vicinity.
Z M 5 o 3 Q S H Z < O Z o a z B) n Q a CO O 2 - - .o z s o IB X a o H X 2 >.
and then the animals were ever on the move as they pulled the heavy carcase about as though last. and at a given signal pressed the button and we both fired. sight. It was terrible even sound after they though a somewhat grand that he might see it. and I gently and be ready in case awoke my companion of trouble. as the sights of the rifles were impossible to distinguish in the extreme darkness. were discussing the situation against in perfectly audible tones. to and much my companion's advice. two lions that To say that that we were discouraged and disappointed scarcely expresses it. and If so. was about go out of the boma to investigate the cameras. as on the previous occasion. for we should have another such opportunity was highly improbable. We I. to miss we could not understand. That I was going to secure a splendid picture of the two huge beasts there seemed no reason it to doubt. Was it really the lion was coming for any animal would return to where believe that it coming back ? us. however.PHOTOGRAPHING LIONS AT CLOSE RANGE The first 77 had landed on the gas-distended carcase was the rending of the tough skin as they tore great pieces from the flank in their endeavor to get at the meat. pointed to a dark moving form not more than twenty-five yards away. for everything had been Neither could we understand how it was possible were only twelve yards away. was no easy task. The shooting. It seemed it we could only utterly impossible that fired at only a had been few minutes before. we both thought we were ready. I it were a feather. when he grabbed my arm. The flash did not go off. we deemed advisable to shoot as well. At however. but. Turning the glasses toward the slowly advancing . At the report of the rifles the lions disappeared! What a dismal failure we had made of this wonderful opportunity! Why the flash had not fired so carefully tested.
its mate was probably not far away. the utmost care. and of the shots intense. which had evidently been knocked loose while we were placing the thorn branches around the cameras. The sound silence was almost deafening. Thinking it would be interest- had taken when he had so mysteriously disappeared.450 cordite. too. and although as we the it boma we was not looked around us with decided feelings of apprehentill sion. of course.275 my companion with the . we turned the light toward the ground near the ing to see which direction the lion . there was no chance of using the cameras. so discouraging! Had we hit the animal there would have been some sound of the death struggle. Then. The camera was first examined. it rushing away (if it did not rush at We waited for several minutes without getting any light on the situation. We were very much relieved to see that instead of straight for us he went to the zebra. It really was and shuddered at the thought of what might have happened had I been foolish enough to leave the boma as I was on the point ' of doing. being unable to stand the strain of suspense any longer.78 CAMERA ADVENTURES I creature the lion. or if we had missed we should have heard us). coming Now. Then came silence. so as soon as the lion reached the zebra we took aim with Mauser. and then. found that there was no doubt about I it. and oh. later that we fully realized the imprudence of our action. for if the lion were wounded we should have very little chance in the event of its attacking us. we crawled out armed with lamps and rifles. It was not a particularly wise proceeding on our part. and stood absolutely motionless and both fired. and the unfortunate cause of failure was found in the disconnection of one of the wires. The excitement of the left moment sent discretion to the winds. I with the . shooting alone remained for us.
directly The . range work. The skull carried about. Until then we had not understood that a lion in weighs very nearly a quarter of a We were interrupted our examination of the dead monster by the deep roar of a one's mate. up. without doubt. Their that we had really delight was most interesting when they found were busy skinning the lion the following killed a lion. to some extent. to and the whole outfit came meet us. wherein the marksmanship it is easy. to encounter a lioness that had just lost her lord We were very sorry not to have secured but the possession of the skin made a photograph of so fine a lion. for the disappointment. little 79 and there. and then. With the greatest difficulty we dragged ton.275 bullet had entered the head between the eyes. It is usually whereas shooting close lions is not anything very wonderful. appeal strongly to one's vanity. is In most cases simply a question of keeping cool. and death had been instantaneous. Shouts and songs announced our approach. for there no doubt both greenhorn and veteran regard the lion with a considerable degree of fear. It we lost no time in getting was probably the dead back to the little boma. to our amazement. We Nothing would to satisfy them but that I should be carried back camp. and thinks he has done something of which he may is be justly proud. while the . which was very amusing. tradition has much to do with our feelings of worshipful awe. morning when the men arrived to carry back the blankets and other articles. so lion not far away. as we were by no means anxious and master. even the least bloodthirsty of us pats himself on the back with satisfaction.PHOTOGRAPHING LIONS AT CLOSE RANGE carcase. lay the lion stone dead. too. Then began was the lion dance. the dead animal away from the zebra. The shooting of a lion does.
Birds. some reason or other there were no visitors. not having any appreciable sense of smell. Our boma we on the bank." saw nothing to do but "stand and whereupon there were three cheers. but with the exception of one hyena nothing came near. The it next night we tried using a dead hartebeest for bait. coming along the sandy The night passed slowly. Nothing happened during the early but about ten o'clock we were put on the alert by the snorting of a rhinoceros not very far away. This we release to attributed few. to a zebra for bait. We noticed that any. which was much built visited by lions. to give presents in As it appeared I to be a custom of the country deliver. The following night we had no better luck. and. part of the night. especially when fresh. strange to say. lions in the neighbor- Evidently the hartebeest was not wanted. though we heard a good many hood. of watching The four nights decided to spend one in had proved so tiring that we camp. animals care to eat lion meat. and every man insisted such events on shaking my hand. so we again resorted choosing a place some little distance from where we had had the lion experiences. we did not once hear a lion roar.8o CAMERA ADVENTURES men went through all jaws were kept opening and closing as the sorts of evolutions. however." so I could not but realize that in appeal- ing so artfully to my natural conceit their one and only idea was to coax money from me. are not so particular. placing in the bed near a water hole. so that we could see any animal river bed. The only word I could catch in the song was the universal "backsheesh. He had gotten . and leave the cameras arranged should with an automatic But for any animal visit the carcase. if the presence of the dead lion.
z a m i a a < 2 O < J5 a < <2 OS 03 H O o OS b OS O | .
- i V '- TELEPHOTO OF A COKE S HARTEBEEST. THE ANIMAL SUSPECTS DANGER AND WHEREABOUTS IS UNCERTAIN OF ITS .
he made us very nervous. we called Simba camp we did not see any more lions at night-time. Nearer and nearer he came. and came to see what was going on that might be stopped. For quite a long time the disgruntled creature Nearer and nearer he came. even left if there had been anything in the of us. however. evidently going to drink. and his petulant snorting struck terror to our hearts.. for if the big. Unfortunately we had left no openings boma except at the side facing the zebra. boma. as he might do in his there would be a most unpleasant ending to our photographic work. snorting At last intermittently. and he came past us not more than seven or eight yards away. He was when he traveling along the river got our wind. at all to his fancy. The smell of the dead zebra was not off. so after giving one farewell grunt he rushed passing between the two cameras instead of hitting them. heavy brute should charge the blind stupidity. though we spent many nights watching over Occasionally . kills. kept us on tenter-hooks. which apparently did not suit him. as the ponderous brute would probably have trampled us to death. and of course the rhino came on the other side. which rested upon a very light framework. so he went 81 off without waiting to investigate further. The next night. and generally displaying his bad temper. and we should have been in a snarl of thorns from which we could not have been easily extricated. A rhinoceros would not be troubled much by the thorns. bed. his curiosity got the better of him. as we During the rest of our stay at what fully expected he would do. only with the idea of withstanding the possible attack of consequently it was mostly composed of thorn branches. its We had built the boma lions. and the whole structure would of course collapse if he ran against it.PHOTOGRAPHING LIONS AT CLOSE RANGE a whiff of us.
and their alertness was truly surprising. but of none of these had I as yet secured any satisfactory daylight pictures. photographing from a hiding-place. there no element of danger. and though was in it had been extremely interesting. quiet attitude. hartebeest and impala were the only kinds I expected to see. and did not succeed in securing any good pictures of them. and consequently none of the keen it excitement that I found when I lay in wait for animals in British East Africa. and tramped would have been very difficult to stay awake all night. The animals. and sleeping in a boma. was somewhat tired. I determined. for one gets pictures at they usually show the animals in a natural. My only experience in photographing wild animals from blinds or other places of concealment had up to this time been chiefly with caribou in Newfoundland and moose in New Brunswick. were so wild that stalking them was excessively difficult. I night-work. was easier work. there if is one great advantage all. Then again. after watching their habits for several days. would have hard all day it been anything but in safe. . I though to try had made many attempts. so that they appear almost unnaturally watchful. watching for lions. so to I thought to it might be well watching for the animals It come me instead of stalking for with the if I them. but even these were not plentiful. Neither had I been successful with daylight pictures of any of the game. and therefore suited me.82 CAMERA ADVENTURES I hyenas and jackals visited us. Zebra. with one's head at the opening. though very plentiful near our camp. They were constantly on the lookout for lions. whereas it is almost impossible to stalk any of the more alert wild animals without arousing some suspicion. to resort to lying in wait for them at a certain place where they were in the habit of passing each morning.
about a quarter of a mile away.I made myself comfortable. and all act as the sentries for efforts to get within I most of the African game. and made a rough blind with leafy and by good luck a branches. enough The sound of the shutter frightened them It As soon as they were near off. was a fairly good chance. but soon I noticed their attention was got my and looking to one side I saw another small herd emerging from some scrubby woods about one hundred yards attracted by something. and watched. Hitherto my camera range of them had been unavailing. ing in the open plain. and they all went together. cautiously along the came walking was not long before some zebra same path. but here. After about an hour's waiting went to the selected place. a small herd of hartebeest came out of the sugar bush. I made two and I exposures. This in may sound like a nature faker's story. The herds eyed each other suspiciously for some minutes. and I won- dered if they would come within range. and then slowly came toward me. He passed close to me. and on getting near the off zebra gave a snort of alarm. for they are wonderfully careful animals. was not long left in doubt. after having spent the night watching for lions. they were near enough for anything but a telephoto picture. A wretched hartebeest was coming For over an hour he had been standto warn them of my presence. They stopped before minutes. saw no more of them. camera ready as quietly as possible. but all who have hunted . watching me. away. They seemed free from suspicion. I thought.PHOTOGRAPHING LIONS AT CLOSE RANGE I 83 so one morning. and had evidently made up his mind to keep all animals away from my blind. and there alone with a camera rifle -. and they stood staring in my direction for many it I was sure they could not see me. and wondered what I was that interested them.
feeling that was far more useful than the . Their special friends are apparently the zebra. A certain sportsman has suggested that no shooting license be granted to any one until he has shot a specified number of hartebeests. with their eyes fixed on me. The sudden sight of these two big tawny yellow brutes was enough to stagger any one. if I camera and get a picture of them. but pick it up they both took a few long. It was the most fortunate thing that ever happened to me. get For some reason or other. it therefore took up the instead. They had seen me move. and after I my experience in photographing the animals of East Africa to say I almost am bound concur in his suggestion. keeping all the while a good lookout to windward. I coming the other way they would. some open ground. thought of returning to watch. letter. East Africa will understand and probably believe the first It was not time by any means that my plans had been frustrated by the interference of the much-hated hartebeest. After the zebra had gone time began to hang heavily on as nothing else appeared on the scene. slow it and I decided that was no time for camera work I wished to take rifle my own skin safely back to camp. longer. and I have known them go a long distance out of their way to warn these of impending danger.84 CAMERA ADVENTURES it. absolutely first still. camp but it for a sleep. as I was very tired after the long night's was nearing lunch hour. as scent of me. not eighty yards away. the direction from which the animals would naturally approach. so I decided to wait a little and beguiled the time writing letters. for there. of course. My impulse was to grasp a as I leaned forward to steps forward. and had stopped lions were two immense stalking me across immediately. just as I was finishing a to glance happened down wind. I my hands.
the shot struck high. I left. it 85 In my excitement I forgot to look to the sights. it is hard to say what might have happened. staring at me. to was fired with the greatest possible my intense satisfaction. as a wounded lion might be expected to do. and found that my gun-bearer had set for three About this time I realized with sudden feelings hundred yards. for I was excited. and taking more careful aim again. I fully expected to see him come when as I companion was struck. as I always kept them. saw the big brute roll over. attributed this miss to my own fired excitement. he got up and slowly moved away. for before leaving camp that morning had remarked to my companion that it seemed absurd carrying any firearms when I was only going to work from a blind which was but five hundred yards from our camp. Then them I looked at the sights. and. taking set for for granted that they I would be one hundred yards.PHOTOGRAPHING LIONS AT CLOSE RANGE camera. but saw that the first lion had another moment of anxiety as I had not been fatally wounded! Curiously I enough. instead of charging me. just over his head. and I had nearly left the rifle behind. for I should have been utterly powerless. with exactly the same result. Had I done so. of horror that I had no ammunition with the magazine that I I me except the six cartridges that had been in rifle. and chamber of the in fact. aimed at the larger of the I two lions. That he did not charge seemed extraordinary. it was only by chance had the weapon at all. I had still three cartridges All this time the second lion stood absolutely motionless. The feeling of relief was greater his than can be imagined. so I fired as quickly could and knocked him over. there being in no trees near me which I could have taken refuge. It is perhaps needless to say that the next shot care and deliberation. going into some thick .
and ceased regret- ting the loss of the fine skin which I should greatly have liked to keep as a souvenir of my fortunate escape. in British I so. and the poor negro thought his last collapsed. I CAMERA ADVENTURES signaled to my camera bearer. but very rarely that it is they will deliberately stalk any one in broad daylight. or They will. only to find the blood-stained tracks of the wounded lion. and returned with the whole camp following. as I doubt they said before. and he came running toward me. even though exciting enough to satisfy the most ardent sportsman. there is little East Africa has in it the greatest possibilities of adventure. camera work from a blind I did. From what have heard of lions' habits my is experience was decidedly unusual. and tracks I of another close beside. and just as well. when wounded or it is true. It moment had come. I have the to other skin. However. spent a few more mornings in the blind. and as he rushed past the lion gave a frightful roar. We it searched the scrubby woods. so it would be ungrateful complain of my I luck. His course led him about seventy yards from the second lion. So was particularly fortunate that I had not followed with my scanty supply of cartridges. who was waiting between me and camp. which had its back broken. and to completely in was with difficulty I I persuaded him that he was not go for some more immediate danger. at night. but beyond the interesting sight of some Marabou storks eating the remains of the lion nothing . He went off gladly enough. and that wanted him ammu- nition so that I could pursue the wounded beast and put the other one out of its misery.86 brush. for the sensation is perhaps most unpleasant. to say nothing of my own. Had very I not looked in the direction of the lions when would have had me. occasionally it go for a man cornered.
o < X _) < o 35 114 o a as fe OS u Q J Z ii C 2 O w .
but the to game was becoming more and more river. 87 During the rest of I our stay in Simba camp we had no more we decided experience with lions.PHOTOGRAPHING LIONS AT CLOSE RANGE of importance occurred. and have a try at the hippopotamus and other inhabitants of the . go down the Tana. so of antelopes. secured a few pictures wild.
CHAPTER ON THE TANA RIVER. the rich foliage of the trees along its banks standing out remarkable Just contrast to the dry yellowish gray of the surrounding country. the walking dry. its Between us and the River. VI PHOTOGRAPHING GIRAFFE. Mount Kenia. as soon as the rains commenced all the country it would be changed as though by magic. we had seen neither of these species since leaving Donya As the Sabuk. where there was prac- tically no vegetation owing to recent fires. is most uneven. zebra and impala. it desirable to less keep to the animal which were well-packed. CROCODILES AND OTHER ANIMALS ON THE first 28th of March we which started for the it Tana River. and more or smooth. As is usual in East Africa. When we saw 88 a few days later we scarcely . chiefly hartebeest. these great open plains contained a lot of game. The ground was powder- and of a peculiar light ash-like consistency. and as the grass roots form small hummocks. winding its summit was perpetually enveloped mountain could be seen the course of the Tana way like a great green in snake. was about due. making For the directly for the point at is joined by the Thika. which offers poor foothold. so that wherever possible we found trails. neither Grant's nor Thomson's gazelles being found near this part of the Tana in fact. HIPPOPOTAMUS. few miles we kept to the rolling plains. In the distance to the north of us stood rainy season in clouds.
scarcely expect- however.PHOTOGRAPHING GIRAFFE AND HIPPOPOTAMUS believed it 89 to be the same parched country. Like bordering is their many other animals the giraffe sub- ject to great local variation. After we had crossed the open plains we came to low rolling hills. not many hundred yards ahead. do not. of me and my I strange silent weapon. the fact there there is so much have it question as to "who's who" in the giraffe I world would still left the identification in some doubts. The whole country was infested with ticks. however. these in turn giving place in the valleys to sized trees. that they would allow photographic range. stalking I As there was no was use- simply walked straight at them as fast as got within about three hundred yards I could go. and infest made us very uncomfortable. which While we were marching we saw. as we did not shoot. so I I me to approach within anything cover. which literally covered our clothes. as well as some and gives a good idea of the comparative size of these two The giraffe did not at all like the looks strongly marked creatures. As soon as made a telephoto exposure. like less. are about the only pest that trouble the camper in East ticks. As they disappeared Africa. and frequently a single specimen. thinly studded with fair- small thorn bushes. with . amble. and even had we done so. a fine herd of about twenty-eight giraffe. I went after them with the camera. was able to secure one more picture of them against the sky- Which giraffe these were I am unable to say. as the spots did not appear lines have the very clearly defined network of whitish dark markings. slowing down as they reached the top of the nearest and line. which showed the greater part of the herd. These most parts of the Athi Plains and the region of the Tana. zebra. into a small valley ing. think was to the Somali variety (Giraffe reticulata). so they went off with their queer hill.
each one being perfectly accurate in itself. might be As we neared siderably. and herd of thirty of forty a dozen individuals might require a dozen different descriptions. in a Few animals show than giraffe. somewhat abnormal markings. so that. without any structural difference. Where these different individuals are found in widely separated would probably each be named as a sub-species.9o CAMERA ADVENTURES variety. the Thika the nature of the country changed con- The small thorn and other bushes. unless the differences are constant in a number of specimens. as well as the marked individuality of any is species. Unlike the common the giraffe cannot. added the ever-growing list. so there are no complete series of specimens color from which a general average of markings and described. and a specimen which shows distinctive coloring. grew trees. or should not. Colonies of weaver birds had their wonderful pendant nests hung from every available branch on some of the . Local conditions of food and climate are usually bound to affect the appeardistricts they ance of any animal. has been described as a new It seems to be a great mistake single to multiply species on too slight grounds. should be thoroughly considered before a to new name animals. fifteen or twenty close together. but no two being quite in accordance with the true type descrip- tion. and on many of the smalher trees another kind of ant or termite had built mud nests. while here feet in height. But men after are so proud to say they have discovered and described a new species that they will jump at the chance of having an animal named greater variation them. should not be separated by a new name. singly or in groups. and there were large Ant-hills of immense size were abundant. be collected in large numbers from a given district.
o OS .
with busy. Near and doves were numerous. The banks showed when must be thirty or forty feet deep. as at any moment the the floods would begin. not so much so. and some of the exquisthe only water-loving itely beautiful blue kingfishers were the river guinea-fowl fairly among birds. but on the whole the river did not impress us as being tropical. while so. was noticeable that in the discolorain flood the river tion of the water. the rains rivers. once in a while a heron. These in some cases were built entirely of thorns. then our return come and be cut off. and studded with just rocks. grouse and bustards were On the whole we were . where there were occasional palms and a great deal of papyrus and cane.PHOTOGRAPHING GIRAFFE AND HIPPOPOTAMUS 91 larger trees. as the Thika. a few Egyptian geese. being both coarse and bony. many of which were vine-covered. Of bird life there appeared to be very little. is The Thika is generally fairly swift and except during abundant in both beautifully fair and cool. We found the Tana to be a fair-sized fifty to river. in fact. On either side was an irregular fringe of large trees. sandpipers and darters. Fish are but they are not of very good quality. packed closely together. Already the effect of the Kenia which had commenced. deep in most rains. Marabou storks. and lined with the under side. about one hundred and three hundred feet wide. and the males were attired in their gay mating plumage of yellow and black. an opening on As the rainy season was due the birds were very grass. This seemed advisable. so that ward course of we should probably be forced to follow the norththe Thika until we came to the bridge on the Fort Hall-Nairobi road. Before noon we reached the junction of the two rivers and camped would on the near rains might side. parts.
Game was being most numerous. we no time in setting flash- cameras at some of the most likely looking landing-places. and amused us with their queer noises.ga CAMERA ADVENTURES life. but evidently the big creatures got wind of our camp. and during the night we heard them blowing and bellowing in the river not far away. but without seeing anything to reward us for the trouble. I was unable was some do any photo- Near the rivers there sign of hippopotamus. greatly disappointed in the bird which we had hoped to find very abundant. and that was at a great distance. ashore. The fires. Several hippopotamus came along would not the river. but we also and impala saw a good many zebra and waterAll the animals to buck. We devoted the first afternoon to looking over the country west fairly plentiful. hartebeest of the Thika. As hippopotamus were lost the chief object of our visit to the light Tana. We heard no sounds of and judging from the entire lack of signs whether there were any in the neighborhood. a few giraffe and a couple of rhinoceros. however. We saw signs of where they had come out on a sandbar at the junction of the two rivers. and here. deep and . near the river. it seemed doubtful curious It is how localized animals may be. just the place to suit We There was an immense pool. for none landed. where lion signs were to be seen everywhere. and there we found where the clumsy old creatures spent their days. we saw no signs during our stay. We were only about ten miles from Simba camp. frightened him away. and only heard one roar. and on the chance of getting a rather long flashlight shot we sat up for a couple of nights. but they come went a few miles farther down the Tana. lions. and one rhinoceros nearly came into the camp. and graphic work. quiet. proved to be extremely wild.
V - t *\ - LARGl HERD O) GIRAFFE AND GRANT'S ZEBRA. STRONGLY MARKED ANIMALS. THIS SHOWS THE COMPARATIVE SIZE OF THE TWO (TELEPHOTO AT ABOUT THREE HUNDRED YARDS ) .
but somehow trained. but the quick- eared creatures heard us. after which. of immense some distance away.PHOTOGRAPHING GIRAFFE AND HIPPOPOTAMUS its 93 strange occupants. the spirit of the scene it completely Occasionally one would yawn. then. two to three minutes being the usual periods. but it is decidedly interesting on account of the curious arrangement . that we could not but wonder where there was room for their immense bodies. unsatisfactory. the sound is so is much a part of the picture that without lost. down would go. and in it there were dozens of them. they would of sight. going and these seemed on the backs of up and down with them. would not expose much of their heads as they came up to Only the immense nose would show for a second or two. they would blow violently. then there would be absolute silence for a few minutes. size. expelling a great shower of fine spray. breathe. or at among them. more often than not. with heads almost touching. yet photographically it was so little was a remarkably interesting sight. it too. Then. Presumably they stood almost vertically in the water. We approached the banks of the river very cautiously. otherwise they could not have come so close together. it then ones. as they came to the surface. for the huge beasts show of themselves that they seem insignificant in the picture. When they became frightened at seeing us they. were individuals At times they kept up an almost continuous blowsink out ing or bellowing. and were rather uneasy. while. the older ones in particular. The majority of those we saw appeared scattered to be about half or three-quarters grown. Among to stay It the herd were two or three young their parents. was never the one on which the camera was is The immense open mouth certainly not a thing of beauty. in They collected such a compact mass. all They stayed under water for several minutes.
he begins to think of dinner. and usually soon after the sun sets At this time the herd separates. as a hippopotamus will in one night destroy acres of crops. for have noticed not at all certain individuals keeping to a pool all night. The hippopotamus is usually a nocturnal feeder.94 of the teeth. I Whether they feed every night an uncommon thing am not quite sure. Then when they are ashore they will often go a long way before finding the necessary supply of the grass which forms It is scarcely credible that their food. and rocks polished. the immense quantities of fat being greatly relished. CAMERA ADVENTURES It is difficult to realize that their lower teeth sometimes fifth attain a length of over five feet. As evening approaches. Then. individual going. is How any one can find a mystery. How is far they will go from their day pool is hard to say. these places have served for it would seem as though many centuries. and judging from the way the banks are worn down." The beast which is quite valuable. though he may be frequently seen on rocks or sandbars enjoying his sun-bath. such large beasts (for a full- . too. their meat is probably more appreciated than that of any other African animal. I believe. He spends most of the day in the water. which is longer by about a than the total height of the animal sport in shooting these gigantic pigs itself. each his to I own favorite feeding-ground. Agriculture and the hippopotamus do not go single hand in hand. "enjoy" the "sport. but there every reason to believe that they will sometimes travel ten or fifteen miles or more before landing. while to it is them see at night asleep on sandbars. but people will go is many days' journey to order in its frequently shot for ivory. he becomes restless. con- sequently the animals are not much loved by either the native or European farmers. Certain landing places are used regularly.
lay a young hippopotamus carefully hidden beneath some overhanging . and this seemed to make the old cow very uneasy. which is the creature's natural refuge. but like most large animals they object to man.PHOTOGRAPHING GIRAFFE AND HIPPOPOTAMUS grown bull will probably in grass. not twenty feet away. The occasional catastrophes which occur to canoes or small boats are due more often than not to accident rather than to aggressiveness on the part of the hippopotamus. Generally speaking. or even fired I feel at. of this lumbering old for having killed it. which frequently came close to the shore. of take the consequences. for one crunch of those big powerful jaws would leave a man in a badly mangled condition. she will at times have no compunction in attacking the cause of that danger. he must be prepared to defend himself. for there. 95 weigh over three tons) can find enough size they nourishment but of course in proportion to their do not require nearly as much food as animals of more nervous temperament and active habits of life. and when a man speaks of the ferocity animal he is probably trying to find an excuse We watched the animals pictures. but if they are made angry by hippopotamus being wounded. while I made a few Wishing to get a nearer view of one big cow. too. My companion suddenly discovered the cause of her queer behavior. in the pool for several hours. all sure that in nearly cases the will leave alone those who leave him alone. the hippopotamus cannot be said to if be dangerous. I took the camera to a place where there was a flat bank of mud. it is only natural that they should seek to retaliate. and any one is foolish enough to place himself between a hippopotamus and the water. and the results would certainly not be pleasant. when the mother hippopotamus imagines her young to be in danger. Then.
Some the cameras were fitted with the automatic device which the animal would trip. was so quiet that believed to be dead. It and had what looked at first like a small it wound on I back. his mother's back. but with no better Evidently the wary creatures were in some way able to get our scent. river Judging from the appearance of the banks the hippopotamus must hold meetings there every night. as they always saw us. CAMERA ADVENTURES The we little creature was only about its five feet long. inaccessible to the camera. It A few moments later he appeared piece of extraordinary on was a good luck. and arranged the cameras so as to catch any animal that came ashore. and immediately rather than ran into the water. the made an exposure rascal before investi- gating more carefully. Then we tried stalking them by moonlight. so they kept well away from us. In some places the ground river was clear of all vegeta- and the red earth was so thoroughly trodden down that no footprints were visible except at the water's edge. and looked as we . if not quite. too. After several nights of waiting and watching and stalking. securing such a picture. for nearly one hundred yards from the tion. while others were controlled by electric wires from the after boma. we changed the posi- boma. while we never saw them. the young ones are hidden in places which are almost. which was rather uncanny work. for. slid when little awoke. as a rule. Shortly sunset the hippopotamus began making a Late in the night we great deal of noise. we failed. We built a boma of not far from one of the most likely looking landings. we began it to realize that it photographing if hippopotamus was not as easy as seemed. heard them ashore some distance from the river but not one would come near tion of the the cameras. but in this. The following night result. but none landed near us.96 roots.
X a. X ! - :*: ca H a S U! OS < a OS .
A YOUNG DIK-DIK FOUND NEAR THE THIKA RIVER .
RESEMBLING THE WHALE'S "BLOW" .HIPPOPOTAMUS IN THE TANA RIVER. THE SPRAY WHEN THE ANIMAL COMES TO THE IS CAUSED BY THE SUDDEN EXPULSION OF AIR SURFACE.
STUDIES OF HIPPO IN THE TANA RIVER .
< o z H CO 5 Id pa > < 5 W X H Z o O cA a S H O o a s z < i- u X .
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97 should be unable to secure any pictures except those which showed The rains had commenced. stopping frequently to look There must have been over a hundred of them. and on my way saw an immense number of baboons. to prevent their landing at the place near the main pool I went there I just before dark and built several large fires. Some of them were on the rocks and others in the water. and of course. This. On my way saw something which made me decidedly happy. but walked slowly. and accordingly placed the camera with the greatest care at the landing. to our troubles. capable of doing a lot of damage if it happened to suit their fancy.PHOTOGRAPHING GIRAFFE AND HIPPOPOTAMUS the animals in the water. so that the cameras and flashlights had to be very carefully protected. So it looked as It if there would be no late to difficulty making photographs of them. not even hurry They were at at so disdainful of me that they would my me. and some were of immense size. some of which were quite near. while we pitched a very small dark-colored tent about seventy or eighty In order yards away. In a bend of the river where several large rocks appeared above the surface of the water were a number of hippopotamus. as there was usually a heavy downpour each night. then. was the place where they slept when not in in the pool. I could imagine nothing more frightful than being attacked by a herd of these savage-looking . it was the one time when I had no camera with me. so that the animals should not get our wind. which added and made the night work somewhat unpleasant. approach. so one night we arranged to watch there. It was the first and only time that I had seen them at all tame. I was too do anything that night. so continued toward the big pool. We to had noticed one particularly good-looking place on the way camp.
and it was no wonder that he was frightened. They could still not. had made an early start. If the truth were known I were dozing. His surprise can be easily understood. Farther on a burning brand on the ground glowing brightly in the darkness. have come from the flashlight. them coming. as we heard the splash jumped into the water. so we were somewhat negligent believe that both of us in our watching. Up we jumped. for that it was a hippopotamus we were sure. That night we had an extremely amusing experience.98 creatures CAMERA ADVENTURES though. along the trail brandishing (as and were quietly walking they always do when traveling in the dark) a burning stick to keep animals away. of course. seeing retreat. to our intense surprise. when about an hour or two before daylight the sudden report of the flash nearest our shelter startled us. we two appeared from nowhere. stood a shivering native scared nearly out of his wits. There were no lions about. The night had passed only too quietly. return- ing from his grazing ground. all What in the it. tion of both the Bang went the flash. as a matter of fact they do not. to the utter consterna- Kikuyu and the hippo. so far as I could hear. had beaten a hurried and in rushing down a steep embankment to the river tripped the flashlight release. lay it and we stood and wondered. It appears that he. with two others. ever attack man in East Africa. A hippo. and the wretched fellow evidently believed . world meant we could not imagine. We walked toward and there. When we emerged from our well-hidden shelter we were surprised to see some as the big beast burning sparks quite close to us. while the man was as though his last trying to gather his senses together. for we were tired after many nights of watching. delighted at the idea of having at last secured a photograph of a hippopotamus. Then.
" AN IMMATURE HIPPOPOTAMUS IN THE TANA RIVER. (TELEPHOTO ENLARGED .
for in they. and particularly object to being seen out of water. To my astonishment the sound all. They were about eighty or one hundred yards .PHOTOGRAPHING GIRAFFE AND HIPPOPOTAMUS moment had come. fully believing that one would should be able to make. The question was. with the sudden bright time. how could we get near them ? They are very shy beasts. and he difficulty in coaxing his two companions to return. Sure enough there were the animals. It had rushed away and hidden the brush. and by two o'clock we were within sight of the hippopotamus rock. had great It 99 took us some minutes to allay his fears. to The water had about four and a half and began appear as though we should But when not be able to take advantage of yesterday's discovery. more even than had seen on the previous day. I thought of those hippopotamus on the rocks I deter- mined river at to get back it to them if at all costs. porter managed it with the greatest care. As I their sense of smell is wonderfully keen we had to manoeuvre so as After about half an hour to guard against their getting our wind. Thika it to camp. would have been interesting to hear their account of the experience light. of careful stalking the hippopotamus. and when we crossed the noon looked as there would be small chance of the camera However. in their fright. of the shutter did not frighten the animals at for half and I continued an hour making exposures with every possible combination of lens and time. the arriving at the opposite shore in a dry condition. It which must have blinded them for a had rained so hard during the early part of the night that we had great risen difficulty in crossing the feet. in position we reached the river and with the bank immediately opposite utmost caution I placed the camera be all I and made an exposure.
good light. and indeed. That at least some of the plates good we could not but hope. As a matter of fact. more or less satisfactory. Such a rare combination the lot of the animal hunter who uses a camera in place of the rifle. So I made the most of the opportunity. A large herd of impala fed along in the shade of the trees. seldom falls to any wind. that not until the plates were developed did discover its existence. forever on the move. They slid off the rock and vanished down . from what I have since seen and heard. I consider started we had most back toward unusual luck that memorable afternoon. would prove nearly all were The following day we returned to the same place with the inten- tion of making a set of bioscope pictures. and chattering continuadded to the variety. some waterbuck and bushbuck and numerous monkeys played among the overhanging branches. which only gave a very small image of them.ioo CAMERA ADVENTURES away. We found the hippopotamus were there. ously. but even with most careful stalking I was unable to get anywhere near them. for telephoto work were admirable scarcely and animals that were almost immovable. but on the opposite bank other animals were continually coming. on the Tana. Not only were there the hippopotamus fifty of them up every plate I in all which behaved most wonderfully well. On the rock near the hippopotamus a large crocodile lay So inconspicuous was I it basking in the afternoon sun. which were kept As long as I live I shall never forget that afternoon for emergencies. We camp I after about half an hour of the most rapid photographic work have ever done. so the telephoto proved far more satisfactory than the ordinary The conditions lens. The whole scene was such as one reads about but seldom sees. and used had brought with me except two.
TELEPHOTOGRAPH OF A LARGE CROCODILE ON THE TANA RIVER .
as they came to the surface to snort and blow. but the to the hippopotamus. This rather added to to the difficulties of the stalking. provided proper precautions were taken to stalk with due regard for the direction of the wind. but in East Africa found them very shy. as one could always with moderate care creep behind a and get a shot without being discovered. On our way back we had the good fortune to see two crocodiles. I After experience previous day had felt that there would have been no difficulty at all. but I was fortunate enough be able to make two exposures of each crocodile before they disappeared. and was only by approaching would be no tree the river with utmost caution that I could secure any pictures of them. and would have made we were it greatly disappointed at is having failed in the attempt. and. animals appeared to be extremely wild. In India. and as the day was overcast at the time the camera had to be used on its tripod. and the other. consequently. but only failure had resulted.PHOTOGRAPHING GIRAFFE AND HIPPOPOTAMUS stream. the rock in the middle of the river. One was on large one. a splendid bioscope series. and after that 101 we never saw more than It their heads. as a rule. they become so tame that they may I be photographed with little it or no difficulty. If it was only a case of shooting the creatures there trouble. handicapped. But the shows how uncertain a job of the animal photography. where these creatures are protected. but with the camera one is by intervening twigs or grass. a very was on the edge of the water under a high bank. even though we had been quite as careful as on the previous day. so that it was necessary to use the telephoto. Most of our energies during our stay on the Tana had been devoted We had done some other work. In both cases they were beyond the scope of the ordinary lens. difficult .
CAMERA ADVENTURES Both waterbuck and impala were abundant. and only once was able waterbuck. feet of where I stood in the open watching is A full-grown animal buck. when in an amorous condition. repeatedly. first one and then another of his and if by chance a younger buck questions power he is is had better be fleet of foot or strong of muscle. times they seem to be utterly oblivious to danger. and While watching rather successful telephotographs. and I them come within a few them. and. I hundred got within about one several I made and twenty-five yards of them. as the vertical dark streak on either side forms a natural border or The tail is widely spread and held erect. reminding one of the prong-horn antelope of North America. had an opportunity for seeing a pair of impala fightThese seem to be the most pugnacious of all the East African between the bucks being extremely the jealousy gazelles or antelopes. to the making convenient cover for the camera. A or a doe large one will chase a younger one.I02 to photograph. keen. I though I tried did not succeed in doing anything with to secure the latter. a spreading of the long hairs of the is effect the more extraordinary. these animals ing. At such times the buck causes consternation among the herd. A pile of rocks afforded of a good picture. or pala as it is often called. one of . for a fight then a serious affair. it for like that displays what is in America is commonly called the "chrysanthemum. owing to the lack of trees or other obstructions. any pictures of the Three of these beautiful creatures were feeding on a dry hillside lent itself which. which objects At such have had to his attentions." which rump. With the impala the fringe to the white rosettes. but. after some careful stalking. emitting repeated loud roaring grunts. a beauti- ful sight. for miles with the greatest persistence. chasing the does. The impala.
while the does. all do not. however. but vary greatly with the age of the animal.PHOTOGRAPHING GIRAFFE AND HIPPOPOTAMUS the 103 in it most interesting as well as one of the most graceful animals In most parts of inland East Africa Africa. believe this to be the case. they appear Generally speaking free they seem to prefer places where the ground from low bush. Of all the antelopes they appear to be the most noisy. and have for hours at a time. and water within a few miles. There is no more beautiful sight animal world than a herd of impala that has been suddenly frightened. which are roughly lyrate in form. . go together though sometimes without in small or large herds. bush country and to be equally happy. viduals. the bucks. I watched them with the greatest care have never seen them either drinking or coming from water between ten in the morning and late in the afternoon. but I have seen certain small herds. Whether or not the herds keep to themselves or mix with the others I am not sure. if not in the world. and their peculiar snort or grunt. any buck. As a rule. sexes gerenuk and waterbuck. day and their numbers did not vary. though occasionally have seen them with oryx. hartebeest. consisting of a few indiafter day. but where there is plenty of shade. the impala do not mix I much herd with the other animals. In treeless plains. at least not in parts of their range. especially the younger ones. which in point of lightness of limb reminds one of the gerenuk. I They are for said to drink regularly three times a day. though I have seen many thousands of these animals. that is The usually separately - to say. is very common. usually have two or three accompanying them. is among large timber. and is found in herds of from three or four to about fairly a hundred. The males in the alone carry horns. is entirely out of keeping with the size and gentle appearance of the delicately built creature.
much I excited. faster even than the hartebeest. and before I could recover from my surprise two monkeys climbed quickly up a tree squealing loudly. when out came three impala in a terrified condition. but prefer to collect in regular places where they the ground rest. I believe. during the midday hours. One after in their they do not see the cause of their alarm. endeavor to see the Once they discover it they go away. and rushes about snort- Once while Tana could I heard so this snorting.io 4 if CAMERA ADVENTURES They immediately seem incredible. As a rule they are easy of approach up to a distance of about one hundred and fifty yards. They passed within a few feet of us. is bare of When frightened by any beast of prey the impala becomes very ing continually. Had we come a moment its kill. and at the same moment a leopard sprang through the grass and disappeared. In their actual running they hold their heads low and go at wonderful speed. later we should probably have found the leopard busy with but our coming had broken . We were on the edge of some high reeds. with nostrils distended and panting as though they had had a long run. Except in cool and cloudy weather they do not usually feed much These places are so thoroughly trampled that all grass. was walking along the banks of the and was at a loss to know what animal make much noise. This jumping continues usually they believe themselves out of danger. but to get very much nearer requires the most favorable conditions and careful stalking. I are small animals which cannot be photographed at long found them extremely difficult subjects for the camera. As they range. commence jumping to heights that another they bound from the ground enemy. traveling as much as twenty-five or even thirty feet at a bound. to and clearing what seems until be fully five or six feet.
but will quickly leave the vicinity of a camp. by the shots that had been when we were meat for camp. getting I believe. 105 and I had no chance of photographing the scene. and started on our northward journey. quently been told beasts. having hippopotamus photographs than I had dared to expect. visit to the Feeling that we had Tana. but they as well as the zebra arrival. we broke camp on April jth. neighborhood soon after fired our frightened. fully accomplished the object of our secured a far better set of .PHOTOGRAPHING GIRAFFE AND HIPPOPOTAMUS up the hunt. difficult had fre- how easy it would be I to photograph these strange from my experience consider them among the most of all the larger animals that I encountered. From what I saw of giraffe I fancy they do not enjoy the presence I of man. but. When left we came the first to the Tana there appeared to be every prospect of doing something with the giraffe.
as the for was too weak it instantaneous to exposures. now Trees that had been leafless were covered with tender foliage that was delightfully springlike. The weather was not suited days or so. The appearance of had undergone a wonderful transformation since our march. which unfor- was never thoroughly fulfilled. tunately with promise. For the first day we kept close to the Tana. While on the march really does not answer attempt using the cameras unless it some very unusual opportunity occurs. to long marches. Where all had been sun-dried. For the rains almost entirely failed after the first ten was burnt before it and most of the tender vegetation reached maturity. conditions light Under the photographic work was practically impossible. and their swelling buds told of the wealth of blossom that would soon Everything was filled carpet the ground. travel- ing generally in a northwesterly the country last direction. or burnt by fires. was as green as the fields of Ireland. and as the rains had set in there was every likelihood HAD ten days of continuous of the journey being interrupted by the flooding of the streams which we had to cross. Flowering plants were growing with true tropical rapidity. for though there was no sun the low-lying clouds rendered the air heavy and uncomfortably oppressive. ONE-HUNDRED-MILE MARCH OVER THE NORTHERN SLOPES OF MOUNT KENIA WE to marching before we could hope reach Meru. as 1 means holding up the 06 .CHAPTER VII FROM THE TANA RIVER TO MERU.
in the direction of Kenia there was open land carpeted with short grass. and yet not an animal us. which results in making 107 camp late in the afternoon if a reasonable distance has to be covered. There were bee-eaters wings would go a couple also brightly colored rollers. after the second hour we saw none at all. far and doves.OVER THE SLOPES OF MOUNT KENIA caravan. but the bird life was from abundant. sugar-cane and sometimes arrowroot. beans. About eleven o'clock we entered the cultivated region. or widely separated. hilly country. where the natives grow their maize. quite tiring Then. away from the Tana. and fairly glistened Game became scarcer and scarcer as we in the early sunlight. trees resembling the apple and olive were dotted about in groups. too. though the conditions appeared to be favorable for many kinds of animals. somewhat proceeded. From the open country we passed through stretches where the low-growing sugar bush became monotonous to the eye. saw a good many of other as waterbuck. The following morning we started as soon as the rain ceased. across most of which had been recently burnt over. marching is camera is enough without any extra work. Once in a while a its bustard rose before and with curious slow flapping of of hundred yards away. Our course took us to the westward. baboons and a it fair amount game during the early part of the day. and we had great difficulty in securing any meat after we had made camp. was there. and hunting with the We always more fatiguing than is commonly supposed. in fact. Most of the work done by the . tions well cultivated We found the plantais and tidy. giraffe. but grew scarce we neared our camping place. Part of the way was through For miles the most perfect park-like country we fine had yet seen. so the grass was particularly fresh and green.
who receive beads. and to collect the hut tax from the natives.108 CAMERA ADVENTURES of course the agricultural implements are of the very I women. but the porters have another place. The settlement consists of the and parade ground. and where there was danger soil. form of taxation forces the people work. it per day. and a broad street of stores which are managed by Indian native soldiers police barracks and and Goanese merchants. The trade is chiefly with the natives. Here the Provinis Commissioner and his assistants hold sway. cotton cloth and wire in exchange for their labor or farm produce. so to speak. and as a great is part of the province is thickly populated. which is not a native policeman to our so near the white men's dwellings. their work being is to deal out justice according to the law. hoe. In one place a field is Here also the cook. of the ground Most was kept free of weeds. Fort Hall and cial is about the largest and most important of the outposts. Every dwelling hut is taxed three rupees (four shillings). which based chiefly on the Indian code. the revenue thus derived very considerable. and . court-house and prison. askaris are allowed. and were directed by camping ground. We arrived at Fort Hall shortly after noon. of the heavy rains washing furrows in the light stalks or other long stems rows of corn- were laid a few feet apart. the capital. blankets. this It is argued that besides bringing in the muchto needed money. and roughest. So far as could see a long knife served the purpose of plough. boys and set aside for the use of Europeans. of the Kenia district. and cutter for the maize and sugar-cane. the will only about twopence be seen that the native does his share in supporting is As ordinary labor Government. spade. the bungalows of the European and Indian or Goanese clerks.
O OS X H .a O fct.
OVER THE SLOPES OF MOUNT KENIA so prevents to so greatly 109 some extent. wood suitable for fuel has become so scarce that in order . it is a a pleasure to drive or cycle. also telephone and telegraph wires. Traction but with them comes engines are being used with some success. Wherever the native has been living for any length of time. There Fort Hall only about an excellent road between the two places on which. There is mail service three times week. and that brings us and petrol. difficult one. are oil the question of fuel. but the strict quarantine against cattle (owing to the East Coast fever) the service has practically been The whole question of traffic in East Africa is a most abolished. There is. Wood is about the only thing left. He from sixteen to twentyis miles per day. I am told. is It is quite certain that if there no direct need for money the native is any more than any absolutely necessary. outside of the railway. Camel carts make trips when it pleases their owners. So far. He is and cheap. except during the heavy rains. frequently trouble in procuring porters just when they are wanted. Coal is too expensive. nothing has been found to properly take the place of the fairly satisfactory five human travels beast of burden. so also. since Ox carts used to be more dependable. adding another two shillings or so. and the cost of his food paid from four to thirteen shillings per month. Unfortunately the other forms of intercommunication are both irregular and bad. which hampers the development of the country. carries a load of from forty to sixty pounds. as they to crime. is in the past. the natural idleness of the native. their idleness forty would probably lead miles from Nairobi. however. to one of the most important local problems that has to be faced in East Africa. and as man will the men do had is not work not have righting with which to occupy their time.
according to all. woman. how satisfactory he proved. there will a fuel famine which will hurt both the railroad uses wood as fuel. as all go as guide declared. and even then the supply is extremely be Unless vigorous steps are taken very soon for the planting forests that still and the better conserving of the exist. He guides do. and could show He promised so much kinds as we wished. and Nyeri there appears to be no wood within miles. At present and though some measures are being is taken for maintaining a supply for the future. Around places like Fort Hall at least four or five limited. At Fort Hall we found the Provincial Commissioner only too ready to help us on our trip with information. has recently been further handicapped by a reduction of its very meagre allowance. especially I a large advance fifteen fifty on his pay. but offered him to rupees per month.no to find the small CAMERA ADVENTURES amount necessary for cooking. the question ing the minds of those disturb- who fully realize the great importance of the problem. I This did not suit him at so we parted. It is to be regretted that the Forestry Department. which was working against the odds of lack of funds. the native is who the woodcutter of the country. European and native. with a bonus of from twenty-five rupees. and by giving us letters to the various district commissioners whom we might encounter. This of course refused. afterward discovered that he knew practically to travel. that he us as that I much game became of all knew every inch of the way. has to go many miles. nothing about the country through which we proposed so that he would simply have trusted to what information he could obtain from any people he might meet on the way. to We had an amusing experience with a native who wanted for our trip to the Guaso Nyiro and Lake Hannington. when he wanted I suspicious. .
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while a dense hedge usually hid all but the roof from the eye of the passer-by. in The country we passed through was hilly. children and cattle retire in the event of a raid. one of the stores. except in places where lions are numerous. and we were quite surprised at . so that we had enough to keep us going for two months. as a rule. being no longer needed. was after ten o'clock before we it and by if that time the old cook see was so drunk that seemed doubtful we should him at our next stopping place. clean and well kept. which had been forwarded These were supplemented by additional material purchased locally. and nearly had a stockade into which women. In some parts the gradients are so steep that the if porters can scarcely carry their loads the clay soil is wet. The following morning It is there was the usual difficulty in making a start from a post. extraordinary how many reasons there are for delaying when one camps in any is sort of settlement. and nearly always surrounded by bananas or maize. Hall is used a great deal by the The road between Nyeri and Fort people. The yards about all these huts were. and The small native huts were seen closely cultivated. Now that wars are a thing of the past. will be allowed to disappear. and my advice to those going on "safari" that they stick to the wild country unless they wish to It court trouble with their porters. finally started. for the hill is "road" to Nyeri is laid out so that the highest point of every traversed.OVER THE SLOPES OF MOUNT KENIA The chop boxes and from Nairobi. The rains during the night made the walking extremely difficult. most parts in all sorts of unexpected places. the stockades. in which case they will be simply used as protection for the cattle. awaited us at in other supplies. frequently on the very steepest slopes. and even without any extra weight we found the slippery walking most trying.
and somefree. people are chiefly agriculturists. The women wear It is fastened below the breasts. pense with covering of any kind. wrists. while the men do The their hair. Ear ornaments are used by both sexes. The costume men is usually a red blanket or a brown cotton cloth hung from one shoulder. his body smeared with a sickening of the mess of red earth and grease. The Wa-Kikuyu of of them are by no means a fine-looking race. or nearly so. more often than hangs a baby. which not. arms. and stretched enormously by means of wooden or bone is curious that the women have the head clean-shaven. is usually clean-shaven. times immense waistbands of beads and cowries are worn. and are of the fat-tailed variety. of leather with or without bead work. and it is no uncommon thing perhaps twelve or thirteen carrying a seventy or eighty of corn or a huge pound load of firewood on her back.ii2 the CAMERA ADVENTURES this part are number we met on our way. than his spear and knob stick. ear is women preferring clusters In both cases the lobe of the cut It discs. In front. the head. or heavy wire. sheep and poultry. and parts in front so as to leave the knees legs. usually filling the fine braids with a mixture of their favorite red earth and grease. ments are usually wound around the Heavy wire ornaarms and neck. the poultry . with a bag These are hung by a strap from gourd of water on the top of it. or wool. the of large beaded rings. while the neck. The women do most to see a girl of of the heavy work. and many rather small. The sheep are rather small. in most fanciful ways. their live- stock consisting almost entirely of goats. ankles and below the knees are decorated Frequently they disa short skirt with beautiful little beaded bands of wire. which complacently sucks at its mother's breast The father marches in front carrying no more as she walks along.
OVER THE SLOPES OF MOUNT KENIA are also small. so for a supply to be sent after us. owing to last season's crop failure. some of which look much like millet. We loaded a few extra porters so as to be sure of enough food in case the others were delayed by rain or other causes. sweet potatoes and gourds and bananas are almost the only other important crops. and six thousand feet above sea level. These porters to at the last moment struck for blankets. and agreed to lend them to the men. Then there are several varieties of small is Maize grain. about the most important of the staples. that in the in return for which a little cash was we reached Nyeri. and when we dined with the District Commissioner we sat before an open fire. gladly accepted. Next to that comes a small bean which grows on a bushy plant four. root. which would take us At such a height the nights would be extremely cold. Though it is almost on an elevation of over ten thousand the equator. we found the climate of Nyeri delightfully cool and invigorating. five or even six feet in height. The crops vary little in kind throughout the inland parts of East Africa. and a quarter of a rupee for food. we had to arrange The men who were to carry this received the large for the trip of sum of one rupee each (one shilling and fourpence) one hundred miles and return. Sugar-cane and arrow- yams. . and lay eggs not n3 much larger than those of the bantam. trail. and quite different from that of Fort Hall. which Altogether is decidedly enervating and steamy. food for the porters would be very difficult to obtain. we thoroughly enjoyed our Sunday's rest. We camped at Wambugus (named The next day after the chief of the district). and received presents of milk. so we bought some blankets at a rupee each. and there learned Meru district. as we expected to go to Meru by the upper feet.
sometimes within about four miles of it. It is very important to know how far apart march must be regulated entirely by them. so that giving an approximate idea of the country. such as roses. as they offer the only camping grounds. ingly filthy place could not well be imagined. the only which had to be forded or bridged. and started on one of the marches to I have ever taken. The last village was one belonging to the Masai. so I took a copy of a map which showed the approximate positions of the various streams we must cross. Such . grow remarkably well in the fine cool climate. do very well if they are well watered during the dry season. and a more discouragLike all their villages. we left Nyeri.ii 4 CAMERA ADVENTURES we ate as good vegetables while and salad as we could have found at home. too. this one was simply a circular collection of dung-covered low huts surrounded by a thorn stockade. inside of which the cattle are collected at night. Flowers. and even strawberries. and yet we were practically on the equator. so that the ground was a regular quagmire. The first day's march took us away from all signs of cultivation. reminding one of fine autumn days Canada. finest April I2th. it Climate. None rough of our men knew the trail to Meru. scenery and the walking combined rivers make an ideal trip. and after a few miles had been passed we saw no habitations. The mornings and cating. drawback being the many No words can adequately describe the beauty of the country and the exhilarating quality of evenings were positively intoxiin the atmosphere. On Monday. The regular Government map which we had with us was on so small a scale and so full of errors that it was of no value to us except in the distance of each day's are these streams. Peas. violets and nasturtiums. cabbages and other European vegetables.
velvety The ground was in carpeted with the richest of and green from the recent England. as we had started late. listening to the birds that were singing more beautifully than ever. The whole his scene reminded me of the old stories of "Robin Hood and glades. Then. sat before its we had a large fire built in front of the tent. and we felt the desire to pinch ourselves to see whether we were really awake. so that sweaters were found comfortable. glade turf. as the sun dropped behind the golden clouds and vanished in the purple distance. Here and there flowering creepers added spots of blazing color. and camping ground we found was so inviting we could not make up our minds to pass it. as the silent twilight gave way to night. To have continued would have meant a march of another four hours before we should find good water. the moon rose beyond Kenia. only eleven miles that day. Such wonderful grass have never seen even Surrounding our glade were clumps of thick bushes and trees all sparkling with their new foliage. or whether in a small the whole thing was a dream.OVER THE SLOPES OF MOUNT KENIA We made the 115 a place seemed quite out of keeping with the beauty of the country. later. and hang them in the clear river water while we lay on our backs and watched them swaying in the current. so we made camp and beauty of the place. our only attempt at work being to take a lot of films which had not been properly washed. As evening approached the air became clearer and colder. settled It down to enjoy ourselves and revel in the was like fairyland. We simply gave ourselves up to enjoyment. and we cheering blaze. and everywhere birds sang such songs as one seldom has the good fortune to hear. I near the stream. Merry Men" and their camp in the forest Work was impossible under such conditions. and we two mutually agreed . The camp was placed rain.
For miles the sloping was lawn of short green grass. and consequently very heavy. not many months was ago. which stretched far to the north east. but that the beauty of the country before us was such hillside we soon like a forgot everything else. their colors ranging from blue to violet and purpletinged pink. until the sun comes out. The ground on which we walked was carpeted with millions of exquisite flowers. They were carrying produce to .ii6 that CAMERA ADVENTURES we had never enjoyed an evening nearly so much as this one Was it possible that spent on the banks of the little Ambori River. and the ground. Before morning the rain came to down we were unable on the porters. game was very scarce in this seemingly all perfect pasture land. standing guard over the valley of the Guaso Nyiro. Strange to say. These night rains are hard become water soaked. such as one sees in fine sheep pasture. us. as the tents It was with a feeling of regret that we left our delightful camp. and these were extremely wild. A few Thomson's gazelle and zebra were we saw. Here and there small clusters of olive-like trees dotted the landscape. but a few miles from here. so the place. and while there a party of Wa-Kikuyu came along. is unpleasantly slippery. which looked like very small gloxinias. endless mountains raised their cloud-topped heads above the misty valleys. a lion had seized an unfortunate native around the camp out of fire soldier while he ? sitting with his companions Even the recollection of such a thing was harmony with the peaceful. right On our Mount Kenia towered above morning light. its snow-clad peak sparkling in the clear To and the west was the beautiful Aberdare Range. dreamy quietness of in torrents. as far as the eye could reach. make an early start. and everywhere. We stopped near a stream to give the men a rest.
o a o o o 2 w Ui b. O H l! O O a: - o o o z H r .
and. condition. It first one we came to was barely was only with the greatest difficulty that icy. amusing arranged to see all Of how course we had to give them the and it was the wily chief tried to coax more from us. being. The motions were not particularly interesting. like most of the women's dances. and in all regretted held. reached many showers but just as we next morning camp it set in for a steady night's rain. and were driving a few sheep with them. clothed in its its upper part covered leaving the peak alone rivers greatly perpetual white mantle. We found the swollen by the heavy rains. He the dancers in a row. girls. it to cross.OVER THE SLOPES OF MOUNT KENIA Nyeri. The trick was so transparent that we refused point blank to give any more. dealt it out a handful to each woman. He managed so that the supply ran out before the end of the line was reached. and taking the gourd of salt. and the fordable. eight without salt. so that each in upon the chief made a new one had her share. and as the clouds broke away we enjoyed the unusual sight of Kenia with with new snow. We were fortunate during the day missing the which could be seen scudding across the country. wheredivision. This left about and these were the younger and better-looking who immediately began pleading for their share. which melted as the sun rose. chiefly of clapping the hands and swaysalt. not being able to oblige him. Thereupon a consultation was about thirty and soon the women of the party to give us a proceeded dance to the chanting of a rather tuneful song. composed ing the bodies. for told some salt a much-prized commodity in this all We him that we needed we had. 117 The chief came to us and begged country. though the water was we managed was surprising to see how . It The we started in a somewhat damp had evidently snowed during the night on the mountains.
swift that we were forced to build a rough bridge before we could effect a crossing. the immense clear woodless slopes of the north side gazelle. The high altitude necessitated large they found I fires. most of the chopping was done with blunt machetes (heavy cutlass-like weapons). I told They threw down their loads and refused to move. Apparently they spend the nights in the belt of forest which clothes the slopes of Kenia at about ten thousand feet elevation. which was two miles farther on. so the porters became surly and mutinous. A stream which we had counted on as a camping ground proved waterless and woodless. parrots. for each morning they passed us on their way to the lower country. Our next camp was at about seven thousand five hundred feet elevation. not even grumbling when on reaching the next stream we found it as bleak and cold as any one could . but it them they could camp where they were if meant carrying both fuel and water from the was next possible camping ground. yet It we saw a great many of them. blance to and the country near the streams bore a strong resemof the parts of Maine and Eastern Canada. their tone. as the air really cold. as the men had not the slightest idea of handling an axe. Thomson's (beisa). in fact. moun- There we found zebra. This was a tedious job.n8 little CAMERA ADVENTURES the men minded and so their cold bath. and a few hartebeest and oryx Owing march on to a slight mistake in our map we had to make a very long the fourth day. The next river was about nine feet deep. Game was very scarce until we reached tain. When would not oppose them they changed and came along meekly enough. which waved from their straggling branches long festoons of gray-green moss. on account seemed a strange place for gaunt cedars or junipers. so they wished.
o < 5 3 5 z o < o O at O O ^M H U! O ^ < . 2= a a u z z o o UJ -J .
strange to us. There were also and many others were there many flowers which were quite to twelve feet high. unexplored. autumn evenings spent The morning broke clear and keen. evening primroses. violets. was covered with high mountains. soaked us to the skin as we walked along. The view from this high elevation was wonderful beyond words. of the long. A beautiful variety of scarlet gladiolus was fairly common. . scarcely known to the white man. white clover. In the distance many of them as yet nameless and we could barely distinguish the course Guaso Nyiro. such as both common mullein and moth me-nots. swept down the gully kept us recall certain chilly all in a very shivery conin making me Newfoundland. so that we had difficulty in rinding enough for the very necessary fires. New flowers appeared with the change of conditions. and so invigorating that we felt as though we could march almost any distance. wild carrot as surprises. To add to our it discomfort a cold foggy rain set in. and only a few miles from the snow line.OVER THE SLOPES OF MOUNT KENIA wish. coreopsis. and occasion- ally a spike of pale blue larkspur eight or nine feet in height reared its delicate flowers above the surrounding vegetation. and the raw wind as dition. We were about ten thousand feet above sea level. the almost lawn-like grass having given way to higher grass. the most conspicuous being a very large bright yellow pea-like flower that looking in grew on bushes from four the distance like broom. sunflowers of several varieties. the river on which we hoped to camp before Near us the nature of the country had completely changed. 119 Wood was very scarce. The country to literally the north and east. being wet from the night's rain. Other familiar mullein. which. forget- flowers.
is The elephants. we entered the great Meru forest. and is delightfully cool. The trees were of great height. being but a little over a year old at the time of our visit. The site is well chosen on a small level plateau overlooking vast stretches of plains and mountains to the north and east. however.CAMERA ADVENTURES bad walking over rough volcanic rock. Beside these and the large plantain eaters and one or two glossy all. and no to animals at though colobus monkeys and elephants are be found in the forest. cool The underbrush was dense and and damp. One young Englishman had and he had after to shoot a very narrow escape in this forest. and though it was disappointing. and it dangerous work going after them. Though situated within a few miles of the equator it enjoys a perfect climate. and is in less than an hour we were within sight of Meru. but a few miles away . It was our first sight of an African forest. healthy and invigorating. which hung in strange and weird festoons even from the everything was highest branches. and in many instances were curiously enveloped by immense woody inasmuch as there was but little creepers. Here and there in sunlit clearings flocks of guineafowl might be seen and pigeons of several varieties darted from the tree-tops as we came along. after several miles of which was conspicuously tropical. having been caught between two cow elephants while tracking a both at unpleasantly close range. the On morning of the sixth day. it was none the less very impressive. forest bull. while to the southwest Kenia. ibis we saw no other large birds. them Soon emerging from the we came to the first signs of cultivation since leaving Nyeri. are difficult to find. The path which had been cut through the forest was somewhat slippery and in places quite dark from the heavy masses of foliage. This post one of the newest in the Protectorate.
I much to do. and have so lonely. But. and was delighted when he promised to get up one within the next few days. are the only white residents. The country around Meru is is mostly under close cultivation. they so thoroughly enjoy the place and the people. these three men feel pretty much out of the civilized world. with the Chief of Police. they seldom all feel was surprised to see that the buildings were of the log-cabin type until the District Commissioner told me he had spent many years in America. and fairly densely populated by a branch of the Kikuyu tribe known as the cordially received Meru Kikuyu. We were most by the District Commissioner and his assistant. and while there had learned the art of log I construction. Not having either telegraph or telephone. was very anxious to obtain photographs of the native dances. and only an occasional post service by native runners. They. . as they say.OVER THE SLOPES OF MOUNT KENIA rears its 121 snow-clad peak.
through dense thickets. but did not lead us to the crater.CHAPTER VIII OUR STAY AT MERU. Along these trails were innumerable made by the native hunters to catch elephants and. three rhinoceros and some fairly fresh buffalo tracks. along disused elephant paths. walk from Meru we decided so-called guide to to was only a couple of hours' take a trip there. particularly thick place. but from what we could hear about their habits the possibilitogether for the big dance. open they generwhere shooting was difficult and in the photographing quite out of the question. and engaged a it As show us the trail. where they might occasionally be seen. There was one place. care to avoid falling into them. and that was near a lake in an extinct volcano crater. FROM MERU THROUGH DOMINUKl's COUNTRY TO THE NORTHERN GUASO NYIRO As WE had four days to wait before the people would be brought we had an opportunity for seeing some of the country around Meru. and while out ally kept to the very high grass. however. According to reports they only left the dense forest quite late in the afternoon. pitfalls. and returned soon after dawn. On all. Our guide. required the greatest of We 122 were going along through a to and were hurrying so as keep our guide . our way we saw a few zebra. who did not know the trail at took us many miles out of the way. INTERESTING NATIVE DANCES. as these it were usually most carefully concealed. Elephants we were particularly anxious to find. ties of obtaining photographs of them seemed very slight.
COMING TO THE DANCE AT MERU WHICH WAS GIVEN FOR OUR BENEFIT .
and we put the poor beast out of its misery. It was nearly round. varying in length from two to five feet. as he careful. Later on we found a hyena in one of these holes. During that time we were much interested . and beyond breaking a tripod no harm came of the mishap. but an upright position. and surrounded by high shelving hills. Instead of reaching the lake at nine or ten o'clock in the morning we did not arrive till after two o'clock. Its attempts to dig its way out had failed through exhaustion. which were densely wooded. and even on the shore there was no indication of any animals having come to drink. We had difficulty in getting him in was down it fully twelve feet. the bottom of which contained six sharpened spikes. but by good luck he had landed between two of the deadly out. except that the hole into which he fell contained no spikes. companion leading. but from their appearance seemed as if they had been very in seldom used of vicinity. The only signs of life that we saw in the lake were some ducks and a few white herons. The wretched creature had evidently been there for many days. but through the lust for ivory they had been mostly killed or driven away. late. 123 my disappeared. as I had a lot of developing and printing to do. about one-third of a mile across. For a couple of days we stayed about camp. when suddenly he completely He had dropped into an elephant pitfall. The lesson made us very was not long before one of my porters had a similar experience. How he escaped being impaled was a mystery. closely wedged stakes. Formerly elephants were abundant the and this used to be their regular drinking and bathing place. Elephant tracks were very numerit ous. so that now but a very few remain in the vicinity.NATIVE DANCES AT MERU in sight.
i have seen. The race evidently a mixture of many tribes.1^4 in the constant CAMERA ADVENTURES stream of visitors. From morning till sunset the natives would come to look at us ourselves by buying spears. The Meru Kikuyu are fairly tall and extremely well built: instead of being black they are more usually of a deep copper color." Some wore a neat triangular piece of goatskin viduality anklets. Kikuyu and Somali being probably the most strongly represented. also Ankle decora- made of the skin of colobus monkeys are worn with great I effect. Their well-formed breasts are usually uncovered. as their dress is simply the brown leather skirt hanging from the waist. a very small percentage approaching the true Negro is type. Their features vary greatly. Masai. The women They are are quite the best-looking of the natives rail. embroidered with beads. and our belongings. They show remarkable taste in decorating . more polite. and we amused shields and other weapons and ornaments A better-natured. frequently dress in a son of square-cut of goatskin. bracelets and The morans. lacking the coarseness of the west coast Negro. while the usual indiin their selection of necklaces. leaving the legs exposed in front. The men sometimes wore blankets. of the country from them. seldom ranging in height. cape or warriors. hung from was displayed the waist at the back. Like the men. different in way from the YVa-Kikuyu of the west and south of Kenia. and finer- looking lot of people would indeed be every difficult to find. regularity. and to a little hung from one shoulder down tions below the waist. but more often a few well-chosen ornaments constituted their entire "dress. they are generally copper-colored rather than black. while others showed strong nilotic features. from about 5 feet Their figures are remarkably fine. with noticeable inch to 5 feet 2 inches.
- --. I 1 3 w H k. u . .
we had the greatest difficulty in arranging not only the price but the form of payment. spears and other articles. but lo-cent pieces. each one would take his turn. more walking sticks. seldom carried except in So far these people are in their primitive state. was usually regarded as a safe proposition. seldom go without spears. Some of the men had never seen a white man until the Meru post was opened. except the very old ones. they never crowded or pushed. recognizing immediately each member of a group. after careful examination. The rupee. No matter how anxious they were to see anything. overdo the amount of bead and often than not. and The shield. Of these they never It was interesting to see how Then well they behaved.NATIVE DANCES AT MERU much like that 125 these skirts. using just a suggestion of beaded pattern. long sword-like of buffalo hide. and even now In buying scarcely one in a hundred knows anything about money. The women. while the men. again we were greatly surprised at their intelligence in looking at pictures. carry long wire decorations. When . blue being the favorite color. and their childlike pleasure in novelties was positively refreshing. the reflex camera. Nearly everything we possessed was new seeing to these unspoilt people. men or women. is made by the Masai. their only ornaments. or 100 cents (the rupee is divided into 100 cents) would on no account be accepted for a rupee. which is made dances and war. in design found among some of the North American Indians. untouched by the slightest suggestion of Europeanism. any of these people. Even a negative they taking a print into would understand far better than most white people do. Beads and wire are and they are used with It is rarely that exquisite taste. The favorite objects were a small mirror and tired. which are knives and knobsticks.
what other need have they to As already stated. Before reaching the dancing ground the men of each village were gath- ered together. in gala attire. On all the for the dance the whole neighborhood was in a state of excitement. . never smearing their ringers over as one might have expected. before running or marching in a solid body to the clearing.i 26 CAMERA ADVENTURES hands they would handle it it their with the greatest delicacy. to inquire into the morals of such an interesting and would probably be shocked view differs at hearing what their customs it are. ? of exerting themselves there is So why should they have acquired the habit Where there is no competition in any way no necessity for a man exerting himself. to call the natives lazy. supply of food. is not fair for us to judge. and they are procured in exchange for cattle. men with their well-decorated shields and gleaming spears. is frequently They at least live up to more than we can say of ourselves. the People were coming in from every direction. and so when we condemn people sideration. for being lazy we should take conditions into con- and not jump day appointed to conclusions too hastily. we which We are apt. the women with their best skirts and finest beads. but if stop to consider for a moment that they have never had to work. but as their point of so entirely from ours their code. They would then rehearse some dances and work themselves up to a proper degree of excitement. to why ? thould we expect them suddenly adopt our ideas on the subject their which give them Beyond attending to the crops. Money work ? they have not known. they Everything they use except spears and knives make themselves. We might be inclined people. wives are almost the only purchasable commodity. too. and instructed as to the day's programme.
a H .
At first the ring was irregular. ran round as fast as they could. clearing the spectators into a well-defined circle. placed horizontally. A large circle about one hundred and fifty yards in diameter was made. their long shining spears in the other. and their song was positively inspir- . naked men carrying their large shields raised in one hand. A finer and chanting in perfect rhythm a most stirring or more impressive sight it has never been my good fortune to witness. or colobus Some had hair. have never seen men keep such perfect time. and had difficulty in scrambling into the lines before being run into by another warrior. was the long. while white or yellow patches of paint round the eye were a common form of decoration. As the main body would run slowly round the circle detachments of five or six would rush across the field shouting and jumping with wonderful agility. The dance began by the warriors entering the arena in double column.NATIVE DANCES AT MERU There were in all 127 about four thousand people. and kept all off the excitable performers. trotting with long. too precarious. Six or seven hundred of these well-built. For nearly an hour it this I continued. field. but a few warriors armed with shields and spears. had great difficulty in escaping with the my I camera. yet I could willingly have watched the whole day. sword-like knife in its red sheath. and driving the got in the Any one who I way was quickly upset. while from their waists. including per- formers and spectators. song. As I wished to keep position in front of great crowds to soon found my field. Few beads were worn. slow strides. and chiefs sat had go to the middle of the where several by me. white and black in fantastic designs. and singing loudly. big head dresses of ostrich plumes their monkey Many had bodies painted red.
I CAMERA ADVENTURES tried to take some I bioscope pictures. or sort of cloth. The men and women each formed some a line. lost his was particularly effective. advanced. One others again rushed round brandkneeling. swayed backward and forward. others standing. some the cattle-raid dance. to a kneeling position The man would drop and catch the spear on it and with a turn of the wrist send spear. Later in the day there was a mixed dance.I2 8 ing. and if in could not help wonder- ing what would happen their excitement they lost their heads. was part of the performance. which was both monoto- nous and uninteresting. was that of the girls women alone. The men having put on and placing their bodies their their blankets. hands on each other's hips or shoulders. Their method of using the receiving the attack his shield. and failed to break the ranks as they reached me! into fits As a matter of to fact several men went from nervous excitement. this For hours they continued without variation. chanting a rather tuneful song. . Still another dance interesting. while ishing spears and shields. and shouting loudly. which he threw with great force at his antagonist. In this the men formed a solid body. but the day was so dark and overcast that could scarcely hope to get good results. and had be carried off the field. while one couple got into a real fight. and quite the most spectacular. glancing off. In this way they came straight toward I where I stood with the bioscope camera. The whole lot would then come forward with a wild whoop. which was extremely shield interesting to watch. and after going thirty or forty yards would drop again. as he was seized by those in favor of peace. One man and resorted to the long knife. This was not particularly The formed a circle with two or three leaders in the centre.
MERU WA-KIKUYU BELLES IN THEIR HOLIDAY DRESS .
1K. THE PATCHES AROUND THEIR EVES ARE PAINT .LYU WARRIORS.TYPES OF MERU WA-K.
THE NATIVES WERE SO ANXIOUS TO SEE THE CAMERA THAT THEY CROWDED ROUND AND OBSTRUCTED THE VIEW THE NATIVES OF MERU WERE MORE INTERESTED IN THE REFLEX CAMERA THAN IN ANYTHING ELSE WE POSSESSED .PHOTOGRAPHING UNDER DIFFICULTIES.
3 M s J5 OS U H ~ S en OS o! 5 a 5 S 4 .'*'1 .
where banana groves. and we began to suspect and news gathered from people tell us.NATIVE DANCES AT MERU moving their bodies 129 up and down while they clapped their hands and sang. as well as prepared in some way. The overhanging bananas shaded the road so thoroughly the natives build their small thatched huts in the that all it was still wet from the night's to rain. and generally very tidy. so the following day we started with him and half a dozen walked assistants whom he picked up on the way. We for several miles through thickly populated country. but I could discover little that was interesting in any of them. which commanded a good view of the surrounding country. On our return to camp we found some more sanguine who . keep our footing. where cultivation was more scattered. but we saw no signs of elephants. These they eat raw. Everywhere we found the ground well cultivated. two waterbuck and a bushbuck. Leaving the men to make camp. This singing was by no means beautiful. from the girls of six and seven even to very old women. A native brought word on the day after the dance that he knew where we could find elephants. The themes of nearly all of these would scarcely be considered proper according to our ideas of morality. The porters found the walking and the progress was aggravatingly slow. and so slippery that it was we could do difficult. as their voices were very strident. On the way we saw some of the people collecting the winged ants or termites. to the For some reason or other he could not that he was simply trusting to luck. guides. As we came very open country. and no we took a trip to a near-by hill other game except one rhinoceros. we were anxious to learn from our guide where he had seen the elephants. Each age of women had its own individual dance. that he might see some. he met.
We had some trouble I with the porters and the orders for a start to be the headman the next morning. Late in the afternoon my comriver. if and gave eating them understand very clearly that ever I men would discharge the whole outfit. At that time found men were cooking to their breakfast. start with It did not take long for me to seize the camera and fast failing. had given I made at six o'clock. and if so why the pair had remained away from the rest of their kind. so had to read the riot act. twenty-five miles from the interest.i 3o CAMERA ADVENTURES show us elephants if declared their ability to only we would go" with them to a place about three hours away. him. the nearest large know whether the calf panion. as the light was so we ran through dense swamps and high grass as fast as we could. They realized what it would mean to be discharged in this out-of-the-way place. as we were about It would have been interesting to had been born by this pond. and then they went off to reconnoitre. feeling restless and energetic. decided to climb a neighboring hill to see if he could detect without news. where no Swahili their breakfast after the hour set for starting I is popular among the natives. including the headman. any elephants. Our new guides took us to a small pond near which we camped. . While in they were seeing away we examined the vicinity of the pond. which were very Finding the hippopotamus in the pond was rather surprising. Time was precious. so after that I had very little trouble making early starts. saying that there was an elephant in the grass about half a mile away. Tana. as the guides had returned Just about sunset he came back in an excited con- dition. but beyond an old cow hippopotamus and her calf we found nothing of There were a few Coke's hartebeest. wild. This had happened before. I and in no hurry found to get ready.
VOOD. DOMINUKI S MEN WERE ORDERED BY THEIR CHIEF TO BRING US A FAGGOT." THE LEADING "REINS" CONSIST OF A STICK FASTENED THROUGH THE DONKEY'S NOSTRILS S . THE STRANGE CONTRIVANCE ON THE ANIMAL BACK BEING A PACK "SADDLE.fc. THE SAMBURU MASAI METHOD OF USING A DONKEY. IS EACH MAN EXTREMELY SCARCE CC RIBUTING - . IN THE POPULATED DISTRICT WOOD FIRE-'.
NATIVE DANCES AT MERU and at about a quarter past six 131 came in sight of a small elephant feeding on the edge of some fairly high reeds. and acted in . He heard me coming. which was glad some money in return. it During his visit. to accept received a visit from He. Our camp was set for the white in the middle of the cultivated region. so I hurriedly put the camera on its tripod. although we did enjoy our first view of an elephant I in its natural surroundings. and made a time exposure. but the light was so bad that I could not even see to focus. this I did. We were only the fourth to use the camping He had came never seen a white man until ten years ago. The guides seemed to be discouraged at the prospect. disappointing. Had we been half an hour earlier could easily have secured some quite satisfactory photographs. as the elephant moved It was very his trunk continually in his effort to catch our wind. so I simply went through the noisy cane until I was within two hundred yards of the creature. he informed us that his people that so was a cause of the deepest him and few white men ever visited his site. It was particularly unfortunate. We fellow. as I never had another opportunity while in the country. who brought a sheep as a present. It is probably due to that man's behavior that the people of the north- east of Kenia objected to the white man and his ways. on a site the old man by the chief Mitari. to There was no time do any elaborate stalking if I wished to attempt a picture before dark. and tried to make a telephoto exposure. so the fol- lowing morning we broke camp and returned to the Meru district. lasted over regret to an hour. which could not come out well. like Wambugu. There was nothing to do but guess at it. when a bad one through the country fighting the people and stealing from them. country.
the result of a request by the chiefs for protection against the warlike Masai. but were arranged more often in or stockades. men present to bring us a faggot of wood. From the information we had received at Meru the prospects of our being able to small. small clusters. our plan being to go to Dominuki's. common. and immediately ordered each of the in this country. continually harassed their more peaceable neighbors and seized their cattle. while bananas were and conical roofs of grass. and if possible for the rest of the journey to Lake Hannington. The old chief directed us to a suitable camping place on the edge of his village. generally circular. As soon as our tent was . The who British occupancy of the district believe. one day's march. mud and scattered They were not bomas so much as those we saw near Fort Hall.th. It make the latter part of our proposed trip were very appeared that no one had ever undertaken it. The country between Meru and Dominuki's was mostly under sort of cultivation. We reached Dominuki's country early in the afternoon. as a dangerous I tribe. and were well received by him and his people. left We Mitari's country on April a. with low walls of wattle. Corn was more and more less in evidence we proceeded.i 32 CAMERA ADVENTURES led the authorities to regard a manner which them was. wood alarmingly scarce. and there obtain a guide for the Guaso Nyiro. each with strongly built The evidence of recent warfare was visible in the good repair of these stockades. The huts were of the usual style. and consequently there would not be any chance of finding a native guide upon some as whom we could rely. for which had been inhabited for no one knows how is many years.
K.IKUYU MOTHER AND CHILD. THIS COSTUME CLOSELY RESEMBLES THE DRESS OF THE MASAI .
We was apparently troubling could not understand the situation exactly. butter. but it seemed intercede in a matter which to that he had been requested cattle. but a hunting-knife and a ring met with his approval. He was very anxious to know we would him. and interesting man. in pay a tribute to the British powers of a number of return for which he had received a flag. To him nation. the chief. we all this many thanks. so far as Zanzibar. flour. which . unfolded for We endeavored to explain that we had nothing to to do with the Government. well along in years. for The cow however. but the effort was too much. Evidently he believed the correct thing to do. In return he would accept no money. were decidedly The milk was in large gourds. He is one of the few "traveled" natives of I remote country. and requested one of his folthe task of politeness. but is keenly His control of his to question people really remarkable. He proved to be a still most intelligent alert.NATIVE DANCES AT MERU cillors. it which he regarded with rather a sad smile as he had our inspection. and after laboriously it working his way through half a cigarette he gave lowers to finish if up. directly was very sorry not to be able to speak with him instead of through an interpreter. all white men were officials who represented the British visit in his We were politely invited to pay him a own home presents and to accept some presents which he would send declined with to us. The receptacles containing these presents interesting. with several of his coun- on us. I and no one ventures any order he gives. and has. could learn. The consisted of fresh milk. whose knowledge of English was of this the slightest. honey. a sheep and a cow. called 133 pitched and everything in order. but he could not be made believe it. visited both his attempts Mombasa and to We were much amused at it smoke.
were well decorated with cowries.
of grass beautifully
in a basket
color, while the
wooden drum, made from a hollow branch and covered
with a well-fitting
purchase these receptacles, but
could not persuade the people to part with them at any price.
we should not be annoyed by
was noticeable. and
sat for a long time a litle distance
any of the men come too close he immediately ordered them away. The people were somewhat like those about Meru, but scarcely
as good looking.
Their method of dress and ornamentation was
very similar, except that the
frequently wore the long leather
dress from the shoulders after the
be more often carried, and occasionally the
in fine stripes with
dark reddish ochre.
we were much
surprised at receiving a visit
During from two
of the chief's wives.
This was the
time any native
Usually they seemed to be lacking entirely in
the curiosity which, though credited to their sex, appears in East
Africa to belong far
than the women.
presented a brass ring containing a brightly colored
This seemed to please them, and they
After they had departed
us to return the
and were greatly surprised at the neatness of the immediate surroundings of the huts. The
ground was swept as clean as a
rubbish and refuse
was carried away from the yards. The chief's huts differed in no way that we could see from those of the other people. All the huts
in the village
were strongly stockaded, more so than any we had
VILLAGE OF THE SAMBURU MASAI.
THE USE OF CAMELS IS ALMOST ENTIRELY RESTRICTED TO THESE PEOPLE NEAR THE GUASO NYIRO
NATIVE DANCES AT MERU
This branch of the Wa-Kikuyu had only recently
placed themselves under the protection of the British, so the idea of
living in complete peace
Kikuyu are almost
have a great
but Dominuki's people
them of more
importance than their crops.
In their habits they seem about halfin appearance,
way between the Masai and the true Kikuyu, but there is not much to remind one of the Masai.
Dominuki informed us
that he could not supply a guide for the
Guaso Nyiro, but
able to help us.
son with us to his next
neighbor, the chief of the
did not believe
possible for us to
Lake Hannington without going by a very roundabout way, which would take us almost to Nyeri, and might require a long The question of water, after leaving the Guaso Nyiro, was time.
the trip to
a very important one, for there
said to be a great stretch of country
almost entirely waterless, unless the rains are very heavy.
This season the rains had been so deficient that the chances of finding
water would be extremely small.
broke camp the following morning we found that the
had sent four guides with us. There seemed to be no way of refusing them, but as food was precious we did not appreciate
having the extra mouths to feed.
Guaso Nyiro was through the usual scattered thorn tree country, but the walking was made bad by the small stones of volcanic origin
with which the ground was thickly strewn.
march we only saw three rhinoceros, a herd of oryx, some Grant's gazelle, an immature striped hyena, a great many guineathe
and one bird which
almost certain was a woodcock.
the rhinoceros bolted before
game was very
nearer than three hundred and
About noon we ran
which nearly proved
porters to catch
down waiting for the suddenly we saw them rushing
loads were dropped, and, with
wildly in every direction.
arms flung about, they acted as though
were at a
that either lions or rhinoceros
were after them, but
proved to be bees or wasps of some kind.
The headman came
to us with the
news that two of the men were
men was my
acted as interpreter.
him would have placed us in a very awkward predicaWhen we examined the wretched fellow we found he had
been frightfully stung, especially about the head and back.
were probably several hundred stings in him, and he was yelling
shaved his head and
over with mud.
men had used
Then we made camp as soon as mud cure. The boy, who was in a state
was wrapped in a blanket and given some strong which seemed to revive him greatly.
During the afternoon a couple of rhinoceros were observed not far from camp, so we went after them in hope of securing some
Our Kikuyu worried because we walked
and were very much
and there took two photographs before the animals had recovered from their surprise at seeing
of the big creatures,
up a cow and a
to within twenty-five yards or
us suddenly stand up in the grass so close to them.
Instead of charg-
NATIVE DANCES AT MERU
we expected them
to do, they took to their heels,
followed for a long way,
we were unable
photographic range again.
that they were being followed.
After hesitating a few
they trotted toward us, and
we should have some
but their courage failed them, and, turning about, they continued
we camped near the village of the Samburu Masai, and about three hours' march from the Guaso Nyiro. We saw oryx, Grant's and Thomson's gazelles, impala, bushbuck, waterbuck and guinea-fowl. As on the previous day we were struck by
the extreme shyness of the game, which
than that of the
the chief of the
we made camp than
bringing with him presents
of sweet and sour milk.
The chief, whose name was unpronounceable
was physically as fine a specimen of man as one would wish see, and he appeared to be very intelligent, and also very mer-
He brought with him
wonderfully devoted, lavishing affection in a
that struck us as
clothes for the child,
we gave him an
old waistcoat, a silk
and was delighted when handkerchief and a ring. He
promised us a guide for the Guaso Nyiro, but said that it would be impossible to find any who would undertake to lead us to Lake
part of our
against our will
find a great quantity
game near the Guaso Nyiro, including buffalo and giraffe. The guide, who was to show us all these animals, was to receive a blanket
(value thirty-three cents) as
for his services.
chief invited us to
visit to his village
on our way to the
river, so the
was of the usual
a collection of very low huts scarcely five feet high,
of wattle, plastered over with cow-dung.
They were windowis
and chimneyless, the low open door
three feet in height
Each was surrounded
by a hedge of thorn bush. In the middle of this of huts was an open space, into which all the
mess could scarcely be imagined, the
mire of manure being fully ten inches deep
around the huts, and
filthy condition prevailed.
contained about thirty or forty huts, and more than a thousand
head of the long-horned humped
goats, as well as a
innumerable sheep and
good many donkeys and camels.
use the regular Masai clothing, the
garment made of hide hanging from the shoulder
below the knees,
immense necklaces of copper, steel or brass wire, with earrings, The men used either a bracelets and anklets of the same material.
blanket or a piece of earth-stained cotton cloth, or nothing.
small boys are practically unencumbered by clothing, but the girls
from babyhood are generally covered.
Both men and
slender, the legs of the
being particularly long and
some milk from the
required courage to drink from the unwashed
These gourds are about the only Usually they are ornamented with
considerable taste by the Masai, but
Samburu we saw
none that were decorated
A MASAI VILLAGE SHOWING THE STOCKADE, BUILT FOR PROTECTION AGAINST LIONS, THE WOMEN AND CHILDREN, AND THE HUT MADE OF DUNG-COVERED WATTLE
SAMBURU MASAI AND THEIR CATTLE
THE REGION OF THE NORTHERN GUASO NYIRO
There frequent complaint from the white farmers cattle. . but the too. and which I have never been able to understand. and is taken either from the dead. All the The people insisted appeared to be very cordial and well-mannered. was the fact that their villages so seldom appear to be situated near water. Wild meat not supposed to Blood. Milk milk is one of the chief food for the Masai. that their Masai herders "tap" the The Masai remarkably are such fine splendid herders. keeping their dition. being a sterilization by smoke as they hang which are smoky live in to such a degree that it is hard to realize articles of how any one can diet. is flesh of cattle is is used a great deal. sour may be said to be their staple and no crops are grown so far as I could ascertain. be ever eaten. dying or the living animal. much relished. all 139 the cleaning they undergo in the huts. is them. that struck me about the Masai. men on shaking hands in European fashion. in fact. that it is own cattle in con- a great pity they have this bad habit. with the unwelcome addition One thing of spitting on their hand as a mark of particular respect.NATIVE DANCES AT MERU milk receptacles are never washed.
one of the few named landmarks of this country. but expected. and a more delightful site for a of East Africa. GREVY'S ZEBRA AND GIRAFFE. but owing to the almost total failure of the rains in the district it was fordable in some places. were scarce. As we were near the middle of the rainy season the water should have been very deep. ABUNDANCE OF GAME: GERENUK. the north side steep. in fact. We camp would indeed be difficult to the beauty of the Guaso Nyiro. rocky hills rose one behind the other. 140 . The only thing which disappointed us was the lack of bird We had been led to believe that it was abundant. too. giving the appeartall. we were camped. On water. life. FINDING AND PHOTOGRAPHING THE GIANT BUSH PIG AT LAST we had reached the Northern Guaso Nyiro. ance of a wonderful park. find. rich-foliaged trees Along the the river's edge a belt of overhung made it appear more tropical The numerous palms than any river we had yet seen. whereas we saw only a few Egyptian geese and Crocodiles. ORYX. it among which flowers grew in great profusion. in complete contrast to the comparative level of the side on which The river itself was about seventy yards wide.CHAPTER IX THE NORTHERN GUASO NYIRO. it We had heard much of was really finer than we had The banks were clothed with the most luxuriant grass. the region so often mentioned by Neumann in his writings on the animals camped near Neumann's Boma. we only saw sandpipers.
XN THE BANKS OF THE NORTHERN CUASO NY1RO RIVhR .
was my and they impressed me as being one of the handsomest of the antelope family. to thirty-six inches is considered a very good pair. it It weighs over four hundred and pounds. comparatively close view of the oryx. I was impossible attempted a nearer approach to them by in a solid line fifty walking boldly toward where they stood watching me first intently. These horns sometimes But thirty-two In size the attain a length of slightly is under forty inches.ABUNDANT GAME ON THE GUASO NYIRO 141 two or three altogether. and they were very small. and made an It exposure before they took fright and cantered away. Their extraordinary long and almost straight sharp-pointed horns add to the graceful appearance. But the guide was and wished us about. oryx one of the largest of the fifty common antelope. was so delightfully comfortable. go with him and see all the game that he knew We had not gone half (beisa). so cool and restful. At that in stalking. though stands very . it Unfortunately the to obtain really wind was blowing so hard that satisfactory pictures. a mile from camp before we discovered a large herd of oryx There were nearly a hundred of these handsome antelope feeding on a piece of open ground. Our camp was overlooking the situated under It some wide-spreading thorn trees river. the curious black markings against the pale pearl-gray color of their coats making a most striking contrast. away to to go after game. that we could scarcely tear ourselves restless. so I was glad I had taken the opportunities of photographing those on the Tana. In this way I gained about yards. distance I made several telephoto exposures. which was devoid of any cover that would be of use With great difficulty I was able to approach within about two hundred yards of the herd.
Neither were there any lions. and some hares and jackals. This applies more particularly to the resting hours about midday. the large herds being seen most often toward the middle of the day. little In running it either trots or canters with a distinctive action. but have never been able to make up It scarcely my mind about their sense of smell. and notwithstanding their decided markings are difficult to see when among bushes. impala. but they were five or six would not us approach nearer than hundred yards. The oryx frequently found with other animals. probably is more than that of any other antelope. tail. bushy-tipped fair speed. when they appear to con- and scattered individuals joining the main This at least is is what generally takes place near the Guaso Nyiro. especially with zebra. Were it not for the almost incessant wagging of the difficult to detect.i 4z CAMERA ADVENTURES over four feet at the shoulder. left After the oryx had so wild that they us we saw let a herd of giraffe. they would be even more three to They go in herds of from two or one hundred or more. Generally speaking they are shy animals. and in places where there a scattered growth of trees. We also saw Grant's gazelles. Like most animals. as well as partridge and guinea-fowl. though . During the feeding time Their eyesight is I believe they keep more to themso remarkably keen. but saw no signs of buffalo. they have the knack of seeing the man before the man tail sees them. I Their hearing also good. seems to be very acute. the small herds lot. both Grant's and Grevy's. The following day we examined the vicinity pretty carefully. duiker. and with giraffe and Grant's gazelles. gregate. and a noticeable swing of its long but when frightened it gallops noisily and with in fairly close is It is found bush country in open valleys. selves.
ABUNDANT GAME ON THE GUASO NYIRO
we had been
the native herders told us
do not think there had been
many years, proof boma for
even trouble to build a lion-
guide informed us
and that he would not be able
show as anything
words, he wanted to leave us.
allowed him to do.
for successful photographic
our remaining any longer in the neighborhood, so break camp the following morning, and work our
Kenia, in the hope of finding something there.
no guide, so
became necessary to or rather lack of knowledge, and
on our own knowledge,
luck in finding our
map we had was
worse than useless,
been made from various conflicting notes
for at least eight days,
and had intended
of the porters back to
but twelve days' rations
and would probably not be able we reached Nyeri, which was the first settle-
ment 'we should touch,
plan being to return to Simba camp,
near the Tana, and do some more lion work there before going
to the Athi Plains for brindled gnu.
feelings of regret
Guaso Nyiro with
at the failure of our plans.
had come a long way
about one hundred and eighty miles
to us as a veritable
what had been described
where everything we wanted would be found in abundance, and be tamer than in the more hunted regions, only to find that the animals
were scarce and extremely shy.
Of course we had
thoroughly enjoyed the
and had seen much
was unusual and
from the point of view of animal
photography we had
of time spent near the
failed almost completely.
The same amount
Tana would undoubtedly have been productive more satisfactory results. But how little one can foresee!
At the very moment when everything appears
in the face,
good luck comes with unexpected
for the best,
Things usually work out
and the very
obstacles are often the direct
means by which success is obtained. that we had been unable to procure
trail resulted in
a guide to lead us back to the Nyeri
our going by
way which, though probably
correct, took us right into
the heart of a splendid
than three or four miles
game district. before we saw a
had not gone more
pair of hunting leopards
chetah or chita).
are probably the most swift-footed animals in Africa,
not in the
Unlike the lions and most other members of the
they are largely diurnal in their habits.
hunting they rely
stalking than on their speed.
they are by no means ferocious, and become remarkably tame in
Even when wounded they do not, as a rule, show much was very anxious to obtain a photograph of the pair we saw,
but they had heard the caravan, and were bounding away
caught sight of them.
followed the swift-footed creatures
some time, but were unable
photograph them, though we
w S a o H oi
z o CO
O S u
ORYX (BEISA) NEAR THE NORTHERN GUASO NYIRO. THE UPPER PICTURE SHOWS THE ANTELOPE SCRATCHING ITS BACK WITH ITS SHARPLY POINTED HORN. (TELEPHOTOGRAPHs)
GRAVY'S ZEBRA GRANT S ZEBRA THESE TWO TELEPHOTOGRAPHS SHOW MORE OR LESS THE DIFFERENCE TWO SPECIES OF ZEBRA IN THE MARKINGS OF THE .
* O H D B* O O OS O fn w o < 3 < 2 ^ . Q Z ? < c.Z U 05 a H o o a a o o ' a. . oS .
TELEPHOTOGRAPHS OF A GERENUK NEAR THE NORTHERN GUASO NYIRO. THESE SMALL GAZELLES ARE NOTED FOR THE EXTRAORDINARY LENGTH OF THEIR NECKS .
when to my utter astonishment four gerenuk bounded past scarcely twenty yards away a buck and three does. and ambled off to the top of the hill. and did not notice a herd of giraffe that were ahead of us. we heard a noise like a stampede of horses. although I should probably have attempted it had the camera been ready soon enough. Such delicately built lost in creatures I have never seen. We rejoined the caravan. . The light was becoming very poor. They were ease.ABUNDANT GAME ON THE GUASO NYIRO once 145 approached to within about eighty yards. as to rolling up. owing to the heavy clouds which were we should not see any game. on which were open glades and dense photograph it clumps of bushes. There were probably one hundred and to fifty of them. and before we knew what had happened an immense herd of oryx was rushing past us not more than twenty to fifty yards away. and I almost hoped would have been well-nigh impossible. and I began to wonder what next we should see. I went ahead. where they could have been stalked with comparative As it was they of course saw us. Just as we reached the top of a low hill. No What sooner had they passed than a herd of impala went by at lightning speed. tion of and I was so completely admira- them that it never occurred to me to use the camera. They appeared be in a terribly excited condition. Unfortunately we were keeping a lookout in a place only for them as we hurried along. hoping that a straggler or two might come along slowly. nearest from which they could keep us in view. and proceeded on our way. The whole thing happened so quickly that I had scarcely time to seize my camera before the herd had passed. At the speed they were going there would have been no chance of making a photograph. and paid no attention to us as they galloped past in scattered groups.
more gerenuk There was no doubt about our having run into a wonderfully good bit of game country. in fact.146 CAMERA ADVENTURES I could be the cause of such commotion was at a loss to understand. leopards evidently not scented us. They were being chased by the swift-footed chetah. but nearly every time I approach any animal there was another. The ground was most places covered with a small trailing plant bearing seed pods. As we continued our march we saw more and more impala. I could recover from my surprise. We saw each other almost at the same moment. Another drawback was the of going on one's hands and knees. two hunting came in sight about one hundred yards away. was to make Guaso Nyiro at its nearest point. The question was. which had not seen. a proceeding usually quite necessary when one wishes in to get very near to any wild animal. but I had no luck in photocountry. and they vanished before But there was no question as to the cause of the antelopes' excitement. and we had come between the hunted and the hunters. The animals had of them. which though not more than half an inch in diameter. and as game was what we wanted. therefore. . The irregular clumps of bushes afforded good cover I tried to for stalking. to the though apparently the country was thoroughly suited work. to give the alarm. oryx. as I we were to leeward While was trying to think of a reason. difficulty there were too many animals. The only thing to do. it seemed to us that the best thing to do would be to spend a few days in the neighborhood. so I sent the men to make camp while we spent a few hours in looking over the We saw a great deal of game. straight for the graphing. where should we camp that there ? An examination of the immediate vicinity showed us was no water.
the does. else. Seeing them and We photographing them were. and by good succeeded in approaching to within about forty yards. and these into one's hands. and were surprised at finding them so numerous. being much more abundant than Their goat-like the bucks. living They are essentially dry- mostly away from water. of the leaves of trees Their food consists entirely plants. They are extremely shy and very difficult to see. which are always hornless. though have watched the animals feeding for hours at a time. which is reddish fawn. sandy clay than anywhere In such places their coloring. As a rule. or through clothing. their body and very slender neck remarkably long visible. interspersed with clearings. except when in motion. We luck I had our first view of Grevy's zebra that day. while and shrubs. as they usually stand with the concealed by brush. do not think the habit as common as is generally believed. with very painful results. and small head being scarcely country animals. as we had no idea they existed in this region. sun-baked. and devoid of conspicious body-markings. and low-growing grass is seldom. though larger herds are occasionally seen.ABUNDANT GAME ON THE GUASO NYIRO went 147 were armed with extremely strong sharp-pointed spikes. so nearly corresponds with the ground that they are very difficult to see. I have frequently seen them in company with impala. but they by themselves. they live in bands of two to four. and . among scrub or thorn-bush thickets. but more usually found habit of standing on their hind are is legs while feeding I from the upper branches of bushes is well known. saw a number of gerenuk. and appear to avoid thick underbrush. I have never seen but one instance of it. I saw more of them on the bare. if ever eaten. I in fact. however. altogether different propositions.
We saw a considerable number of dik-dik and a few duiker. In disposition they do not resemble the common. to find. and from the condition of nearly free from scars. when they congregate with various other animals particularly oryx and resort to grassy clearings. as two would rear together biting each throwing one another with great force. or Grant's zebra. which I fight so frequently that a latter perfect skin difficult have often watched the other's neck. I and even though secured a few photographs. appeared to be abundant. The stripes are very much more narrow than those of the common vertical variety. it is which were in all cases free. or evident that they are far more peaceable than their relatives. The former were usually in lots of two to four. fringed ears are also a is distinguishing mark.148 CAMERA ADVENTURES They fairly secured a fairly satisfactory photograph of a pair of them. while the latter were found singly or in pairs. Their superior size for they stand about fourteen hands two and the totally distinct markings make their identification only too easy. being much less We saw no fighting among them. three up to over forty. The large. for as and sometimes would continue Such fights much as ten or fifteen minutes before one of the contestants would give way and retreat. rounded. much more so than the common Altogether the day had proved a most interesting one. variety. is the Grants. their skins. It will be observed that there something peculiar about the markings above the nose very queer expression. there was every reason . pugnacious. and curiously enough saw no They appear like the oryx to feed in herds by themselves except during the middle of the day. and more generally on the body. We found them in which gives them a herds of from two or foals. The vulturine guinea-fowl was very abundant.
TELEPHOTOGRAPH OF IMPALA. NEAR THE GUASO NYIRO *? IMPALA JUMPING. THIS PECULIAR HABIT IS CHARACTERISTIC OF THESE ANIMALS WHEN FRIGHTENED .
side On the north was a belt of small irregular glades. as they were more or less smoked. Nothing could have been more delightful. to enough so long as we paid no attention I They appeared tame them. with the idea of securing photographs. find On our way to where camp on a beautiful. The following day we made an early start to the place where we had seen so much game. tinually see As we sat outside the tents we could con- baboons and other monkeys. these were comparatively the from bones. This ground was a more or less level stretch of country on the top of a low hill. and covered low-growing vegetation. and of excellent Unlike those we had caught free Thika and Tana rivers. among which there was some . The men were fish size. with thorn-hush thickets dividing them. they disappeared immediately. greatly excited at the quantity they could so easily catch in the river. and quality of the Some were of immense flavor.ABUNDANT GAME ON THE GUASO NYIRO to 149 suppose we should have better luck later on. These glades were somewhat stony. hills. with coarse. but the tract to which most of the game resorted was only about a mile wide by two miles Part of the whole area was quite open country. we expected to The men had camp we saw a number of waterbuck and baboons. way they would keep for several days. but the moment attempted to stalk them. As fast as the fish were caught In this men cleaned them and dried them before a slow fire. grassy fields of from three to twenty acres in extent. the baboons taking to the stony the others following the fringe of trees which bordered the river. Altogether it embraced an area of perhaps ten or fifteen square miles. weighing probably ten to fifteen in the pounds. grassy bank on the edge of the river. selected a splendid site for the shady. with natural long.
all and the background was that could be was very much excited. heard footsteps nearly bushes but in I down wind of us. This continued nearly as far as the eye could see toward the hills. and our spoilt.i 5o CAMERA ADVENTURES On the south side the nature of the country it grass. To the west ran a range of high rocky while the country in the centre was some parts and sparsely wooded in others. while we watched them this coming slowly toward and wind were desired. Later on we saw a large herd of oryx and both kinds of zebra. Peering through the saw a zebra walking along. a few seconds he would undoubtedly get our scent. As a matter of fact. waited. Almost the first animals we saw on reaching the glade belt were some Grant's zebra. the low were arranged so that there were a succession of sandy openings which were devoid of all vegetation. changed com- Seen from above looked like an impenetrable thorn-tree thicket. trees with absolutely no openings. so with the greatest possible care I to crawled. As yet he had no suspicions. view I to a little opening. They were feeding in our direction. and had secured only one reasonably I was therefore thoroughly disgusted when I satisfactory picture. open in lay down behind some bushes and us. Most of the oryx were lying down. so we flat. herd. foothills of Kenia. with painful results my hands and knees. chances would be stances The only thing to do under the circum- was to make the best of things and get what I could. and as the zebra came in full secured a rather satisfactory picture at about forty yards. . pletely. but some were on sentry duty. I Everything indicated that little would be Both light a perfect opportunity for photographing the right. as up to this time I had had extremely bad luck with zebra.
TELEPHOTOGRAPH OF A PAIR OF VULTURINE GUINEA FOWL NEAR THE GUASO NVIRO .
ABUNDANT GAME ON THE GUASO NYIRO and with bush when they their I 151 keen eyes they detected fully It me crawling through the was one hundred and fifty yards away. feeding slowly in the openings among the bushy thickets. so I was imposto content was absolutely no had myself with a couple of long telephoto pictures of the Grevy's zebra. and finally found myself within seventeen yards of one. much difficulty. and none of these could I photograph. I had spent about half They had not seen me. as they remained motionless . forty or fifty Grevy's It was a beautiful about two sight as they rushed through the When hundred and fifty yards away they stopped. to get within one hundred and it fifty yards or so without being seen. idea that things were not quite right. and were oryx. impala and dik-dik. herd I more or less open after By using every possible precaution managed. only a few gerenuk. and turning round in a solid line stared at us intently for several minutes. open woods. The next day I missed one of the finest chances of photographing During the rest of the a wild animal that has ever an hour in stalking three come my way. sible to go. and I felt sure it they would come into would be only a matter of minutes before But they had evidently some clear view. my obtaining a picture of the wonderful day we saw but little game. as there Any nearer than that cover. The dust they had raised prevented sight. all fifty oryx. Never I have I stalked any animals more carefully. and about forty yards from It happened that they were all standing behind the other two. Of course large made in a off. bushes. There must have been about one hundred and and a few Grant's zebra. was not long before we discovered another place. Then I attempted to go a little closer. but the whole herd galloped away.
and yet I have nothing to show for it. so foolishly I tried a second. This necessitated going back into the region of bushes and glades. I made Soon several exposures before after that they detected me and made we discovered a herd of about two hundred oryx. off. I for was standing in the burning I let sun not daring to move. and were so unconscious of danger. but it is just those frame of mind. While we were making our way as . Such a picture as he made I I have never seen. but the oryx were rather too far away to give satisfactory pictures. At the sound of the shutter out came the oryx and stood in clear view. did not frighten The first exposure them or the oryx. so I decided to make a wide detour we should in order that I might approach them up wind. leaving me in a most unhappy Such an opportunity will probably never fall to my lot again.i 52 CAMERA ADVENTURES what seemed like a full half-hour. We was had not walked half a mile before we saw some more oryx fields. Then came a herd of impala. which afforded me shelter for stalking. and was in the act of setting the shutter when he ran off. that could not resist the temptation to photograph them. broadside to me. little seconds which so very often come between success and failure in animal photography. A pair of gerenuk passed by. feeding in one of the open the On the edge of the clearing there remains of an abandoned Samburu cattle boma. as the would have been useless to attempt wind was in the wrong direction. However. Had he waited two seconds longer I should have had the picture. so that not be seen. but it they were in a place where to stalk. and them go. In nervous haste put a fresh plate in position. They looked so beautiful I in the sunlight. After considerable difficulty I was able to get inside the circular thorn edge.
of a few feet completely alters the telephoto focus. for the benefit of those lens. to find that the zebra so I gently raised the camera. so carrying I simply ordered the flat. that is it is who have never used the telephoto almost impossible to focus rapidly on any object that in distance coming or going from the operator. By bad to luck the camera was equipped with the telephoto lens. and lens. turned yards. however. but there was no doubt that of a place of concealment. while was shaking all over with excite- . There was no time to do any choosing up a sudden rise in the hill. This was certainly a new sensation. men who were my extra outfit to lie down I while I crouched as low as and not move on any account. Then. I aside. never expected for a moment that the zebra would come nearer than twenty or twenty-five yards. again. 153 quietly as possible I caught sight of a Grevy's zebra about forty At first only the top of its head was visible as it it came was coming directly toward us. while the other stir. I Of course. and that it more than covered I the plate. owing to its it is not adapted to instantaneous work. except under extraordinarily favorable conditions. came scarcely dared to yet the photograph could not be made without some movement. I was no time change to the regular rapid might say here.ABUNDANT GAME ON THE GUASO NYIRO yards away. The animal was to staring right at me. evidently I wondering what was going happen. One. as the difference low illumination. would have given almost anything to have had the regular lens in place of the telephoto. could with the camera held ready for immediate use. as I had given there up expecting close-range work. only was too close. so my surprise was very great to within twelve when they for another one had appeared continued toward us. and coming at such a rapid walk that we must act as quickly as possible.
so I quickly changed plates. and there. That was all it could stand. Though from the excitement and the amount of work done during the morning I determined to go after them. and finally vanished.i 54 CAMERA ADVENTURES After a few seconds at ment. however. giraffe No sooner had the herd gone than we saw some rather tired about three-quarters of a mile away. which was blowing hard. presumably they saw no less than Grant's gazelle. I about one hundred and seventy-five managed yards. more and stared animal to the me. and to stalk to within at that distance to the made several exposures with more or less success. we walked to the ridge of a bare hill. So I the chance of securing satisfactory pictures was not so good as had hoped it would be. then turned once This time I found that I could just fit the it plate. However. We made our way through a small gully until be. me positively limp We open next continued our way toward the oryx. away the surprised animal. we the big creatures. we were fairly near where we imagined the animals to On emerging from the gully there was nothing to be seen of had seen us and gone off. Owing wind. leaving made two more exposures before it from the nervous strain. to find that they left had the been joined by some Grant's gazelles. walked slowly away. . and I trotted but stopped again when about seventy yards away. thinking that the sound of the shutter would undoubtedly frighten It did not. still another exposure. to our complete astonishment. On the chance that they might be somewhere about. the pictures showed a slight amount of vibration. and near them a herd of oryx and Such a sight I had never expected to behold! I fifty giraffe. and made another it and off. and that they had field and moved to the shade of some large thorn trees. so I made an exposure.
On reaching camp I saw an Egyptian goose on an island in the river. bulls.ABUNDANT GAME ON THE GUASO NYIRO had always believed that a herd of twenty-five or exceptional. So far as I could judge to markings they appeared of doing be the Somali The question any photography was very uncertain for three reasons. and how much The material could be collected in a very short time. the wind was blowing violently. next day saw me once more in the game It was my intention to devote myself to the task of securing photographs . On our way fully back to the camp we saw a number of oryx. Under such conditions I could not hope for much success. As we were going down wind no more opportunities for photographing occurred. the sky had become heavily overcast. As the after- developed all of these. one could but have such days more frequently how delightful would be. I had seen an almost uncountable that I had ever experienced. but unfortu- nately these days of exceptional luck come only too seldom. most important of all. and though the light was most unfavorable I made a This ended one of the busiest days of animal work picture of it. and that there were but three or four large from the clear reticulation of the giraffe. and some zebra and gerenuk. and had the It it satisfaction of seeing a few at least come out fairly well. and. and had used noon was cool I thirty-two plates. the giraffe were beating a retreat. district. a herd of one hundred impala. A strange thing about this herd was that more than half of them were apparently scarcely half grown. number of animals. as might have been expec- ted. but being anxious to obtain at least some sort of photographic record of the herd I made several exposures. in rather blurred pictures. which resulted. but to see fifty 155 quite thirty was was indeed a surprise.
and quickly seized the camera and . as the overhanging thorn afforded only the scantiest of shade. so I I the place scarcely It I more than an hour decided to follow the tracks. in the hope of seeing something of the buffalo. successful I cannot say. and there air stirring. first impulse was to have the rifle ready. As we entered the more thickly wooded region before reaching the hills I I saw ahead of me. to was the first time had attempted walk down buffalo. for We were frequently startled had only the . was not a breath of We were not very far from the western range of hills. an animal which My calf. but not wishing to be forced to shoot we carefully left him alone. A large herd during the night or early morning had visited a small it mudhole one of the clearings. What would have happened had I we been with me. and should never repeat the performance. On was anything our way we came across an old rhinoceros feeding in a small grassy clearing.156 CAMERA ADVENTURES I of oryx and gerenuk. which rose with a whirr that but quieting to our nerves. left From the indications seemed as though they had or two. as the mother would probably charge to us should we happen I be between her and the it On taking a second look at the animal struck I me as being different from anything had ever seen. about twenty-six yards away. trailed the herd. expecting every For nearly eight miles we minute to come upon them in the shade of the stunted thorn trees. so I decided to climb up on a high rocky spur. The walking was trees excessively hot on the glaring sand. but changed my in plans on coming across the very fresh sign of buffalo. took for a young rhinoceros.275 Mauser by the sudden appearance of flocks of sand grouse. from which there would be a good view of the surrounding country.
of the pigs. way we saw many gerenuk. has only been discovered. The color of this one to its was a decidedly reddish having rolled in the dust. . but in the enormous wart-like excrescences protruding immediately below the eyes. As nothing was to be seen of the buffalo we started back toward for in my wildest dreams I camp. brown. had never expected to have an opportunity of photographing this rare and very shy animal. but in every case they saw us At last. I it seemed wise to was able make telephoto exposures of the queer little creature before he took fright. however. On our first. or giant bush pig (Hylocbcerus Meinertzhagenf). the largest to science since 1904. This was the last day of our stay in the neighborhood. hoping that we might have a chance to secure a picture of gerenuk. one of the that the animal rarest animals in East Africa. not was within about At three one hundred yards. and as I I pressed the shutter release realized was photographing was none other than the forest hog. Needto say. I believe. which was as close as that distance. Meinertzhagen. in the inconspicuousness of the tusks. but that as it may have been due less was nearly the same tone as the sandy clay of the district. I 157 was scarcely ready I when it looked up. and which were practically invisible in the one I saw. so I did some very careful stalking until I He had to go. and fled.ABUNDANT GAME ON THE GUASO NYIRO hurriedly focussed the queer-looking creature. with the greatest of care. I was greatly delighted at such a stroke of good luck. not only in size. so unless I succeeded I should have to do without this interesting species for my collection. seen me. This huge creature. I discovered a fine buck feeding in a scrubby clearing. known when it was by Captain R. In general appearance it differs from the wart hog. and since that time very few specimens have been secured.
too. neither ticks. and there were So we packed insect pests. The first part of the journey was trailless. The climate. . fairly hot days and very cool nights. we were without a guide. as already stated. up our outfit with the keenest feelings of regret. and. and many miles had we could obtain any more. If we had had more food we should have stayed at least another week. but we had only eight days' supplies to be covered before left for the men. camping ground could not be found. flies nor mosquitoes.158 CAMERA ADVENTURES thoroughly disliked the idea of leaving the We for a more delightful Guaso Nyiro. was no perfect. or a more to interesting place in which photograph game.
< 'S> OS O- .I I ^ H K O O < u.
CHAPTER X FROM THE NORTHERN GUASO NYIRO BACK TO SIMBA CAMP. with extremely hard. where the streams at times 159 it after heavy rains had a place washed away the banks. not how would be before we should any more what we imagined was our way led us through some very bad country. among which a small aloe-like plant. In some parts the ground was bare red sandy clay. and made our way due south. which afforded good walking. We were frequently obliged to alter our course. so as to pass the western edge of the rich game district to which had proved so useful were instructed to fill me. often bare-footed. where dense thickets of stunted trees made the selection of a route anything but an easy Our way or rather task. gave the bare-legged. and end of trouble. on account of deep gullies. for find do unless ordered and long it to drink very we knew water. but the porters needed head room. It was well enough for us who were unencumbered by heavy Nothing will loads. impede the progress of them more than having to continually duck beneath overhanging branches. Before we started the men their water-bottles a thing they will never sparingly from them. DIFFICULTIES OF FINDING THE WAY WITHOUT GUIDES OR TRAILS WE LEFT the Guaso Nyiro on the morning of May 6th. and was difficult to find . but much tire men and of the country was covered with a coarse scrubby growth of underbrush. just as the sun was creeping on the distant tree tops. men no sharp points.
Shortly after four o'clock we came to a large tract of open country walk- which stretched ing to the foothills of Kenia. but still the stream beds were dry. and always useless. a number of dik-dik. but a close examination of the ground revealed no signs of such a mishap. we were waiting for the rear when the headman arrived with the and information that the cook's boy had vanished about a mile farther back. having gotten down and was following the men tired at a In vain we shouted and searched. The men were .160 fit CAMERA ADVENTURES To add to to cross. and we were forced to believe the it of his load. our discomfort the heat was well-nigh intolthe lack of self-restraint erable. in all we had to to abandon the boy to his late It might be as well add that he turned up the the afternoon. and a few duiker. though supposed to be within sight of each able to bring other. at first we were inclined to think that the wretched youth had been taken by a lion. sand digging for water almost Shortly after noon of the caravan to catch up. and there were no large birds except the common guinea-fowl. The boy's pack had been found. is How difficult his task must have been shown by the fact that several times all our men lost their way. and after wasting over an hour of precious time well-earned fate. with we saw which characterizes noon. Here at last the was better. thickets having evidently followed the porters through without ever being seen himself. The men. drank their supply of water before to that time Up absolutely no sign of water. the Swahili porter. in that volcanic Every stream bed is was powder-dry. and it was only by firing shots that we were them back. The only animals thicket country were three we saw on our way through the lesser kudu. had thrown safe distance. young rascal.
me to shoot one. but no sign of any camp. About an hour before sunset thought high time to be moving along. and while it. On our way toward hoped- we came upon a herd of Grevy's zebra. when to our relief an answering shot After replying rang out in the distance. in the and the prospect of traveling blindly dark did not appeal to us at all. that Near these there was every its reason to suppose in the we should for find some stream which had all source mountain snows. Darkness was setting in with the usual tropical suddenness. were an offshoot of Kenia. Thinking one about way good as another we went southward. carefully noted the direction. as they felt the need of meat after the long We shot one. but received only the echoes in reply. Just before six o'clock we came to the valley below the western mountain. as we had eaten nothing but a couple of small biscuits since five-o'clock breakfast. and found there a fine stream of good water. a mile or more away. neither did the prospect of going to sleep without food appear particularly alluring. it but the heavy dews had already dampened the grass. The walking was . We tried building as grass fires. I fired several shots. ains.DIFFICULTIES tired WITHOUT GUIDES OR TRAILS 161 and discouraged. snow water was one could hope to this find since the rains for stream had stopped. We had no way of knowing whether the camp was above or below us. and I fired after going half a mile several shots. so that did not burn freely. we and started off as fast as the nature of the ground and the darkness would permit. I stayed behind with to my camera bearer to skin the others I went forward it make camp. but being without water they had to conIn the distance to the westward there was a range of mounttinue. and wondered why the porters had not returned for the meat. and the men begged march. so we did not know what to do.
we were thoroughly About eight o'clock it we came I a cheerful sight was! When up camp. had not proThe valley became We more and more densely wooded as we continued. .162 CAMERA ADVENTURES best. and what thought of how we had been faced in sight of by the prospect of of lions (for sitting all night hungry. As far as we could see. Every bush or high looked to us like some dangerous animal. following a fairly open valley which opened near our camp. none of the and many were the holes we fell in. the prospect of a bath. meant going a few miles out of the way. to and very deep rocky slopes would have to and impassable thickets be avoided. The headman and others seemed to think it better to head directly for Kenia. and in constant fear we were in the lion country again). for tired. until even the old rhinoceros trail we were trying to follow was so overgrown that we were forced to cut our way through the thorny undergrowth. This would have hills. but I had heard nothing. which and work our way along the sure came from Kenia. a good dinner satisfactory. By daylight lower foothills we found our camp to be situated quite close to the of Kenia. I was anxious go by the western range of I felt stream. All the hills within sight were clothed more or less thickly with dense bush growth. and kept a sharp tuft of grass lookout as we stumbled along. so the question of selecting a route was extremely difficult. range upon range trail stood between us and the which would take us to Nyeri. as water must be found before night. and a comfortable bed seemed wonderfully The next morning the askaris who were on watch had been roaring all told me the lions around the camp. We were in some fear of meeting either lions or rhinoceros. ceeded very far before we realized our mistake.
SB s o z Id o z I o < Z W H Z U .
. one of which was along the stream where the vegetation was so dense next difficulty. to the thorn bush. relief would have been For a couple of hours to this continued. To get out of this little valley was our There were only two possible openings. ness of the vegetation we could not see Owing to the densewhere we were going. among we came walking along a rhinoceros quite close to camp. then to our we came an open grassy glade through which ran a stream of sparkling cool water. When his companions found him some hours later he was too far gone to be saved.DIFFICULTIES As we could not to WITHOUT GUIDES OR TRAILS feet 163 see more than a few ahead it was necessary keep the sharpest possible lookout for rhinoceros. as one cannot dodge Only a couple of months or so before Guaso Nyiro an unfortunate Englishman was killed while trail. To avoid a catastrophe. as the endless thorny Our progress was creepers and branches were difficult to cut. owing he was tossed. He had gone out for a stroll and had not thought it necessary to carry a The rhinoceros met him. very quick and accurate shooting dense thorn thickets. and after an hour of in fairly climbing found ourselves open but exceedingly hilly country. WorkHere we It ing to the westward a little we came to the stream again. In every way it was hard on us all. it We blessed the rhinoceros tracks. for without them to proceed. This we chose. so it was all a matter of guessing. necessarily very slow. discovered a trail which followed the course of the stream. practically impossible however. and being unable to escape. as to be almost impassable. the other way was up a very steep and difficult rocky hill. to the is necessary. but especially so on our hands. for when these cross-grained creatures meet any one on their path they waste no time in clearing the road. rifle.
but after what we had gone through it was a veritable luxury. all felt sorry for ourselves. For several hours we had almost treeless. between us and the Nyeri see rose steep hills so densely wooded that we could no openings. and altogether we open country once more. prove easy. The rain made the air steamy and oppressive. though steep. to The men could not carry loads unless they had food. little no trouble. late that afternoon the walking. Then. One way seemed worse than another. trail. but ahead. Less than two days' supplies remained. It was discouraging work. the headman informed me that the men had scarcely any food left. so the rest of the way should. and appeared unending. steering by com- and cutting a path for the loaded porters. and as it began to rain hard we felt rather discouraged. but until we camped very bad. and we came had seen to There was no more forest ahead. we should get set ourselves to the task. Deep gullies of impenetrable thicket blocked our passage. There was nothing So we do but cut our way right through the belt of big forest. so any delay would prove serious. as the improvident creatures had eaten double rations on some days. Several attempts to find a reasonably good way failed. to make matters worse. Expressing our opinion of both porters and headman could do no good. whose snow-capped peak lay directly south of us. we hoped. was not On starting next morning we were greeted by a superb or view of Kenia. pass. and had caught any quantity of fish. Occasionally it was necessary to cross the vine-tangled stream to avoid rocky spurs of the hill. even though they had been given meat. The country was rolling and smooth. to our delight Late in the afternoon the forest lightened. We .164 CAMERA ADVENTURES was not much of a path. trusting to luck that out before dark.
ONE OF AFRICA'S HIGHEST MOUNTAINS. THOUGH ALMOST DIRECTLY ON THE EQUATOR.TELEPHOTO OF MOUNT KENIA. ITS SUMMIT IS PERPETUALLY SNOW-COVERED. ABOUT l8. THE THIN CLOUDS OR MIST CAUSE THE INDISTINCT BLURS OVER THE LOWER PARTS .OOO FEET HIGH.
going though rhinoceros signs had been abundant. I secured a couple of long-range The evening left before reaching Nyeri I was told that the men had no food (though they should have had to rations for over two days). Our camp. We it had over miles to travel before strength of the we should see Nyeri. which was was bitterly cold. of which photographs. high elevation we had a Guaso Nyiro and we realized that It we had made a far better take in selecting our route. would have been had we followed the river seven or eight miles to the westward. We also saw one small herd of eland. men that they were able to do such a march .DIFFICULTIES scarcely any WITHOUT GUIDES OR TRAILS leaving the valley of the 165 game since Guaso Nyiro. and then come up the valley of the stream alongside of which we had camped. and traveling rest of By so doing we should have had water fairly all the way. and it several hours of sunshine to warm us through. and speaks well for the fasting. and every one was glad trail at be on the move by daylight. zebra being exceedingly numerous. On our way we saw some Jackany pictures splendid view of the big mis- son's hartebeest. We on which we had come. and that they were anxious make an early start in order that they might reach Nyeri in one day. We struck the Nyeri ten o'clock. and marched by the light of the moon. an elevation of about to eight thousand feet. followed the The trail our Nyeri was uneventful. for water to The men on saw two buffalo in the thick woods. so we got off at four o'clock. but we were too tired at go after them. much to the delight of all hands. but I was unable for the first time to get of them. would have been through trip to open country. and found the game very much more abundant than it had been a month ago. From our Valley. cold The took thirty was so great that our hands were almost numb.
The next morning to we had great difficulty in off. According the season everything should have been there green and spring-like. and we arrived at Simba camp on the afternoon of 1 May 5th. and there was no evidence of rain having fallen for burnt and dry. and we finally got off about nine o'clock. as had booked my for passage of June. as the many interesting accounts of his experiences.1 66 CAMERA ADVENTURES arrived at the post pretty well tired out. Selous. or rather what should have been the . where again. Sore was the main reason it for though were impossible to walk. for the rains had come since before. In many cases the but. the well-known African hunter. but evidently the fall we were had been insignificant. I Fort Hall. wanting a rest. and had yet to leave home by the steamer sailing the fourteenth much work to do. They and I do not think any of us were sorry when we saw the flag flying over the fort. and heard the bugles of the native police. men tried to get a holiday. We Mr. Any of the men who wanted to me good were given permission do so on condition after they found efficient substitutes. with him listening to camped alongside of and spent the evening making a start. several delays This they could not do. the we took supplies of food for the men. Beyond losing our ing way through the men becoming separated nothing excithappened. trees The grass was were losing their leaves. but most were resorting to the commonest of lies. worst of all. The following day we reached There. several weeks. so I took on a few native porters to help those who needed help. the stream. men wanted feet have a day and came with endless excuses. and we left for our old camp near the Tana. and they limped as Several of them were telling the truth. We were somewhat surprised at the condition of the to country. but time was precious.
in order guard the apparatus against Just about dark we started . I had left the men. also several rhinoceros. One of these nuisances attempted to break up the caravan. .275). to We stayed by these pools birds. was a dry bed of sand. as we were till too tired to up and watch them. grass he stopped. so I crawled quickly to a The rhinoceros had been disturbed by the "safari. with here and there a rapidly evaporated water hole containing a dark green substance. Another one made me feel rather uncomfortable for a few seconds. dusk. when we heard a loud snort and a rushing sound. but continued his retreat. and had to be dissuaded by a couple of shots. and the wind was in the right direction. tions that The water holes we had made were and it was only after making some deep excavaall. Down came grass a rhinoceros trotting to allow of almost straight toward photographing. notwithstanding this dried-up condition of the country.DIFFICULTIES WITHOUT GUIDES OR TRAILS 167 stream. hartebeest and impala. which bore but a slight resemblance to water. and as he was it not more than twenty yards away I looked as though we were in some excitement. absolutely dry. the game was very abundant. On our way to camp we had seen a great many zebra." and had When for he heard me moving in the come our way only by chance. On we set the chance of obtaining some automatic flashlight photographs sit three cameras near the water holes. we were able to find any water at it even then the sup- ply was so limited that for the kept the men busy all day long getting enough needs of the camp. the old fellow did not bother us. The was too high I did not want to shoot (especially with the tree. and little us. and was marching alone with my camera bearer on the chance of finding something interesting. but as kept quiet. Yet.
to be Then. We it were not sorry. We heard a few. also I a herd of and three or four rhinoceros. as we knew the place infested with lions. and waterbuck. was extremely discouraging. when at least the lions roared near us almost every night. The come near us was one hyena. near a dead zebra. The next morning holes. but not kill. we had nothing thorn show Later in the day we it. built a boma all. work was to be a complete nothing like it It began though our it failure. so was found no animals had been near the water for our trouble. though . mostly hartebeest. and spent the night in with no luck at so us. a few giraffe. There was nothing being accomplished us. For four nights we stayed only creature to boma without any This lion results. though better than the nights. We had no lantern with in the river working among the high grass and papyrus bottom was anything but agreeable. so that to off do but return and reload it. The days. impala. to In the distance lions could be heard roaring. therefore. zebra eland.168 CAMERA ADVENTURES to back camp. had not been productive of anything particularly interesting. thinking we had at last outwitted the birds which came to drink at dusk. but was had been on the occasion of our previous attempts. and they would prove extremely unpleasant creatures to meet in the dark. While this was went another one. but had extremely I tried bad luck in my efforts at photographing any of them. that to to reach camp. too. and to look as even he did not give us an opportunity to photograph him. but before we had gone more than a few hun- dred yards the report of one of the flashlights reached our ears. we had seen signs of buffalo. We had seen quite a lot of game. much and any as a jackal visited the A few mosquitoes annoyed troubled by them this was the first night that we had been in the extent.
KENIA .- LONG DISTANCE TELEPHOTOGRAPHS OF ELAND ON THE NORTHERN SLOPES OF MT.
Many times they could be seen walking quietly among the trees. except in a few places. We never had an opportunity of finding out it whether they were nesting there.DIFFICULTIES every WITHOUT GUIDES OR TRAILS grass 169 way I knew. Curiously enough no impala ever came near the blinds. while on low off on a hunt. did not take my life When the me long to in seek the shade of a near-by the stalking. but only once was I able to approach a herd near enough it for photographic purposes. where I cooled off before continuing My companion. and I wished that stealthily might see another of the big creatures creeping through the grass. I Never had been so nearly sun-cooked as finally I was that day. For half an hour they watched me stood in the baking sun. Occasionally a few hartebeest came I within range of my camera. it animals returned to their feeding tree. The dry was I so high that in for it interfered with the success of the pictures. So went working from a blind. and then took me over an hour before they gave as I me an opportunity. but birds during our entire trip. and as glanced down wind with considerable frequency the events of that memorable morning were vividly recalled. not daring to move. discovered a on the mountain-side a flock of white pelicans perched trees few miles from camp. was the only time we saw these . blind in which I For two mornings stayed in the had had my I experience with the two lions. Stalking was generally useless. but I even then luck did not favor me. but no excitement came. and I succeeded in securing several fairly satisfactory pictures.
we found nothing except the common disgusted. At last our search was rewarded by the Following the sign of blood discovery of some animal's entrails. and meat more than be a lion's kill. were the where we believed lions to be plentiful. so the change was decided upon. even though she little Dame Fortune had not for had been absent some time. If there it was one thing so more than another that we wanted to find was a lion's kill. as she usually does. so far as my photographic hunting was concerned.CHAPTER SIMBA CAMP. seen a herd of eland two days before. Beyond seeing some which we were unable to approach. the Where is vultures congregate there likely to be meat. for lion pictures programme. They must be obtained at all costs. Not surprised. MAKING FLASHLIGHT PHOTOGRAPHS OF THEM AT NINE YARDS previous chapter is THE mostly a record of failures. most important part of my by taking a walk to a part of the country where my companion had giraffe. She returned. we hastened toward the vultures. on what we expected would be the last day in Simba camp. but somewhat again. XI SEEING TWELVE LIONS IN ONE NIGHT. but for a long time were unable to find any sign of meat. tion hartebeest and impala. and we amused ourselves. when to least expected. but altogether forsaken us. sitting we headed toward camp to On is our way our atten- was attracted some vultures on the dead branches of likely to a tree. We had determined move camp to a point nearer the Thika River. 170 .
THE PICTURE. OUR WATER SUPPLY AT SIMBA CAMP. WHICH WAS TAKEN AT THE END OF THE RAINY IN THE DRY BED SEASON.-'' ?. SHOWS HOW WE HAD TO DIG DEEP HOLES OF A STREAM IN ORDER TO FIND WATER .
TELEPHOTOGRAPH OF A HERD OF IMPALA FEEDING .
where they would be near the boma. Then. below which was the dry bed of a small stream. positions for the cameras. From the condition of the grass we were unable to determine whether the carcase had been eaten where it lay. for they would be under great disthere were splendid advantage in having to come up the steep bank. built in such a way as to control the situa- The gully a surprise attack by the was valuable as a protection against lions. but there was a knoll on the opposite bank where the boma could be tion completely. and clear of any intervening brush. with the high it.TWELVE LIONS we soon came to the IN ONE NIGHT among eaten. where a long spring would be practically impossible. latter The in seemed the more probable. sitting to suit the arranged the requirements of flashlight photography we could not have found a spot more entirely satisfactory for the kill position of the than where the lions had placed excellent. 171 the grass remains of a hartebeest hidden under a high grass-covered bank. Altogether we were more than pleased with our good fortune. Not only grass over- was the background bank of shadowed by two overhanging thorn trees which made the composition nearly perfect. and our trip to the Thika was abandoned in view of the comparative certainty of seeing lion pictures where we were. head and fragments of the hindquarters. as the grass had been much trampled If we had a little depression about forty yards from the bank. The animal had been partly Nothing remained but the shoulders. not know. or whether it had been dragged and hidden there after the lions had had their meal. too. but How much good luck was in store for us we did we were about to enjoy the finest night's sport that the crowning night of the twenty-eight which had yet come to us we had spent in our endeavors to obtain flashlight pictures of the .
or in the event of a lion remaining after the flash had been fired. it Three were more than we had all and to have them within twelve or fourteen yards was. The night was so intensely dark that that was only with the greatest difficulty we could see anything under the shade of the trees. The lions looked unreal. and darkness was settling fast on the country. and nine yards from the kill. and the flash were so that they would operate simultaneously. as we had much had to do before was noon when we had this lion's kill. outfit and we were three to miles from camp. put up the bars of the opening. built. when to our surprise beest. boma everything was arranged. We had everything ready by about half-past when the boys brought us our much-needed dinner. exciting it almost too much so. for it CAMERA ADVENTURES Time was valuable. the kill. They might even be used if a lion should five. and an extra used in case first the others failed. Two seemed to be above the . about eight or ten feet all Three cameras were placed in a line apart. dark. shadowy form Then another and another. and settled ourselves enjoy a cup of hot coffee and a quiet smoke. The photographic be brought. bargained for. had lunch. Lions they were without doubt. to put very mildly. we heard a slight sound in the grass beyond the dead harteto distinguish a light Very soon we were able slowly coming through the grass. In the boma. it charge. a and everything put in perfect readiness for the night's work. which was ten yards from flash to be were two more cameras. They on one electric circuit. So we hurried back to camp. We had just finished.172 African beasts. their ghostly forms blended with the grass so that we could scarcely tell where they were. and returned with The illustrations show how the outfit. and men to build the boma. into the After eating we crawled down to boma.
WITH THE THREE CAMERAS SHOWN WERE MADE ALL THE FLASHLIGHT PICTURES OF LIONESSES IN THIS PICTURE .' OF THE SAMi: HOMA COMPLETED.BUILDING THF THORN HoMA FOR PROTECTION AGAINST ATTACKS FLASHLIGHT PICTURES 1-RoM LIONS WHILE MAKING .
retreated in haste. interested in was so the wonderful picture. and might. as we had no means of telling far they . feared there was one lion at the carcase. or should we wait till they had gone farther ? The former how course was the had gone. but soon realized that I if I did not soon act trouble might come our way. and if we waited they might return and catch us outside. so with reluctance better. of the flashlamp and re-setting of the Should it be done at once before the lions had recovered from their surprise. and by light could see that there were three kill lions sure enough. To its myself turned on the pocket lamp. and so excited. as I happened we should for one would not care lose all to chance of any more go out in the dark to haul it back the satisfy lion's kill I immediately after they had carried little electric away. The next question was the shutters. so I pressed the button. and that he would carry away. If that pictures. 173 and one lower down. which was followed by darkness and more inpenetrable than ever. IN to ONE NIGHT side. in which case the consequences would perhaps be unpleasant. and the They were making and I it strange noises which sounded like the crunching of bones.TWELVE LIONS kill. but as we had three photographs of filling them we were delighted. lose the oppor- tunity of securing a picture. through several causes. utter- more intense ing low growls as they went. with a report like a shot. The lions. the blinding flash illuminated the scene with its unnaturally brilliant bluish light. that for the moment the idea of pressing the electric button scarcely entered I my head. startled and frightened by the sudden interruption. but that only one was near enough to the cameras. and. to be within the field covered by the This one was a lioness. and as the light fell on the big I creature her eyes gleamed with the brilliancy of jewels.
we went out and completed the task. for the cameras had any more might come. until she appeared to have reached Instantly I I pressed the button. for there must have been at least a dozen of them within half a mile of us. had taken herself off to a respectable distance. It seemed scarcely possible that they would after the two bad frights they had received. It was about nine o'clock when I heard sounds of something approaching. and we hoped she the flash when went off. but as there was absolutely no telling what these fearless animals to be reset again in case might do.i 74 CAMERA ADVENTURES of our comfortable shelter to do the most disagree- we both went out able part of flashlight work. for I was very tired and badly need of . and lions. commence and she was only ten yards from She went away with a bound and a growl. crouching as though about to the meal us. but they kept us constantly on the qui vive by their roaring. Soon the form of a lioness was discernible coming slowly toward the kill. flash The three cameras and the were put in readiness. There could be no doubt that we were in a thor- oughly good lion region. relief. secured some of the best pictures have made of She was broadside to the cameras. Accordingly. armed with rifles and lights. it was best to be ready. which sounded in every direction. when we were in about to change watch. At two o'clock. Needless to say no time was wasted. and we For two crawled into the boma with a feeling of intense hours nothing occurred to disturb the quiet of the night except the and the distant barking of zebras. Nearer and nearer she came it. For a long time after that we saw no more of the hungry creatures. and I awoke my occasional roaring of lions companion so that we should both be ready for anything which might occur. My companion was asleep while I kept watch.
AT THE MOMENT THIS FLASHLIGHT PHOTOGRAPH WAS TAKEN SHE WAS LOOKING AT TWO OTHER LIONS WHICH WERE ON THE BANK JUST OUT OF RANGE OF THE CAMERAS .APPROACHING KILL.
on our part. To make matters worse. It looked as to do. and we felt that we were really in for trouble. though not by any means pleasant. When she was within a few a lioness feet of the kill we turned the electric light on her. some animal or animals were coming through got on our nerves. After the severe which we had been undergoing the sudden report of that . but you. while we. lion For a long time we could see nothing. one of the growling animals came down the bank. too. moved about they would the high grass mysteriously appear and disappear trees. and if I wondered whether I should ever see again. was exciting. but we could not help wondering as to the possible outcome. and sounds the dry as though grass. among and dark The horrible growling never ceased for a fully realized that moment. had come to the con- clusion that they were a decided menace to us. after what seemed an interminable time. but the growling it continued until There is something decidedly uncanny At in the sound of a it growling when you cannot see the fifteen or sight.TWELVE LIONS some sleep. then more growling. animal. even though more interesting. a fourth lion approached from the back of the boma. At one time he could not have been more than three yards away from us. and. He. IN ONE NIGHT 175 we heard a low growl. the four lions would never make up their minds what They were prob- ably debating whether to attack us or go to their meal. growled as he came along. The situation. was a It was evident the beasts to our presence menace them. know is probably within twenty yards of the last three lions came within and as they They were on bank overlooking shadows of the the kill. either photographic or otherwise. Home certainly seemed a long way it off. flash and almost at the same moment released the strain and shutters.
176 flash CAMERA ADVENTURES sounded so loud that it actually startled us. earlier in the night. and did not take us safely ensconced we were soon once more in our little boma. and the flash be. not be the slightest doubt. We carefully scrutinized immediate surroundSo the but could discern no sign of the dreaded creatures. retreated growling ominously as they went. It was altogether weird the and ings. cameras were once again set. The attitude of the lions had been decidedly threatening. How fright- from the it. and the deep roars of the directions. It filled. instead of rushing away as they most deliberately. and so with fear and trembling it) it confess fully dark we pushed down was! The little the bars light and went out. and the idea of four of them being about caused us to wonder whether it would not be better to give up the chance of any more pictures For the risk of leaving the boma. What became of the one which had been behind us we could not tell. The lions. as the flash had silenced him. may be easily under- stood that after all the excitement of the last hour we absolutely dreaded facing the outside darkness. If. After much deliberation we concluded that as foolish (I we might never again have such an opportunity it would be not to make the most of it. for this night rather than take that it was a risk there could The lions were unquestionably enraged if at being interrupted in their meal. . we had been it averse to leaving the comparative safety of our boma. electric lamp seemed rather to accentuate lions than relieve all could be heard in horrible. while we wondered what the next pictures would very long to complete our task. or even small chance of defending ourselves against more of them. and they decided to attack us we should have very four. had done on previous occasions.
long seconds which seemed more like minutes or even hours. straight toward us. ? Should we it and so perhaps avert the onrush risky. only two this time. and the deathly stillness Those two was appalling. There was still a chance that attention by some occurrence. the bank over For more but never coming within range of the cameras. The seriousness of the situation was alarming. the tree near which they crouched. as would have been we should probably have might be diverted missed. but nothing happened. always keeping on the kill. their minds.TWELVE LIONS IN ONE NIGHT 177 Less than two hours passed before our next visitors arrived were. and a noisy two they Such snarling and Back- growling as they indulged in was highly disconcerting. but just as we were expecting to receive them. we was is could see them crouching alongside one of the us. and we were beginning to become used to their menacing tones when they quieted down. than and five as they reached the sandy stream not more or . at once there was a sound. InstincI also tively we both cocked our weapons and a held case them ready. and the two creatures came down the bank with a rush and a growl. Several seconds passed. than an hour they kept us in suspense. more disconcerting than for a lion always supposed to be quiet when about to do mischief. as shadowy forms were In that dim light as motionless fire. their growls The sudden had been. they changed bed. while our eyes tried vainly to penetrate the darkness. of had heavy revolver is convenient in a fight at close quarters. so we All waited. They silence were facing really and we felt most uncomfortable. and trees. ward and forward they walked. and the firing would most their likely precipitate the attack. for that what we had every reason to expect.
No one who has not undergone the experience can have any idea If one were of the nervous strain that such a night's work implies. we saw The night's work was ended. beasts sit and look for minutes at a time. and that was the heard of them. and the vain endeavors to pierce the blackness with one's inefficient eyes is so great that it plays havoc with the nerves.178 six CAMERA ADVENTURES yards from us. . There are several experiences of my African trip which the but my memory for many a year. On returning to camp after the night's work I immediately com- menced developing the plates. result in the loss of a pic- The slightest it sound or movement might ture. Although nervous it is fascinating to the for if the night utmost. and I found that ten were satisfactory my most sanguine expectations. practically within springing distance. as we were both impatient to see if everything had gone well. twenty-first of May will outlast any. should not be fired except in extreme emergency. be dark the strain of listening for the almost noiseless footsteps of a lion going through grass. it resulted in my securing no less than ten photographs of lions. simply shooting the tension would be of comparatively short duration. but where a shot would probably spoil the opportunities for it the whole night. No words can express my delight as negative after negative all came up beyond clear and crisp. and it was a relief to see the gorgeous tropical dawn after the hours of darkness and intense excitement. so is necessary to stay absolutely quiet while the ferocious at you. will linger in I shall an achievement which probably never equal. but it is better to have the help of the moon. but the night of Not only was it thrilling. to our intense relief they turned and last beat or a rapid retreat up the gully.
for who could tell at what moment the lions might come to avenge the disturbance of the previous night. we could not hear their stealthy approach. To enhance the value of remains of the this generally despised antelope to lions' kill for a mile and a half we dragged the our new boma. nor did any animal visit the lions' kill. but nothing occurred to break the absolute night. presence. and at night I scarcely ever had more than two or three hours of broken. for. A dark form that would first fill the opening of the boma would be our it intimation of the creature's to save ourselves. I was seldom able even it was. We dared not sleep. would be too late The dawn. however. and so the long hours dragged. I effects of lack of sleep. and in pictures or experiences. did not trouble us. We were. That left us only two for work. As was beginning to feel the unfortunately. restless sleep. so is we had to content ourselves with a hartebeest. we returned to camp at no richer After thinking the matter over at lion photography. we decided But three nights make another attempt remained before we must to it leave Simba camp. to doze during the daytime. and then lions. Hour after hour passed slowly along. which a very poor substitute. We were unable to secure a zebra for bait. so . stillness of the starlight Not even did we hear the lion's roar. however. and in the afternoon we returned boma hope that perhaps we might have another good night's sport. as would be necessary to have a whole night's rest before going on our march. doomed to disappointment.TWELVE LIONS The rest of the IN ONE NIGHT to 179 late that morning was devoted to the lion Morpheus. and if they came evil intent there with would probably be no roars or growls. so that unless we kept our ears constantly and keenly alert.
Probably was a jackal. but on second thought we realized lion that by so doing we should I lose all chance of any more pictures. Between one and two I listened o'clock a slight sound reached tively my ears. for extremely quick action. and accord- ingly pressed the button. Just by way glanced round. I As I graphs of determined to take this had not any good photoopportunity. It went growling in a much disgusted manner. which proved to be a lion. either. lion. but the darkness was so intense that nothing could be seen. As the nights were still moonless. As soon as the noise ceased we went out to see what had gone wrong of precaution I with the flash lamp. in order that there might be a better chance of our seeing and hearing any animal that There was no gully or other safeguard against the attack of lions. Then the distinct crunching of bones could be heard. and more atten- than ever. so that if any came we should have to be prepared approached. In the distance we occasionally heard the deep roar of a but apparently none was near us. both of us wanted to fire. and to my surprise. We were out open with a At first watching us not more than twenty yards away. and discovered and cor- . and there was every indication of this one being overcast. and the sound to our surprise of the shutters frightened away off the animal. so instead of shooting reset the cameras. The flash failed to ignite. The in the horror of the situation may well be imagined. The first few hours passed quietly enough. the electric light revealed a pair of eyes. the kill we placed only eight yards from the boma. Had it been a lion we should without doubt (so we thought) have its been able to distinguish it large bulk against the skyline. or possibly a hyena.i8o CAMERA ADVENTURES would be more than likely to follow that any lions crossing the track it. and consequently very dark.
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It is so impressive as the lion's positively fascinating. or lack of results. One more night was spent visitors to relieve the boma. But never once did they come near enough be photographed. but we had no dreary monotony. apparently never more than a couple of hundred yards away and often within nerve-racking thirty yards or less. air vibrate. We had had but one stroke of luck since our return. . This ending lasts fully twelve or fifteen seconds. becoming gradually It softer and softer until it finishes in a sort of purr. of the night's work. in the and rather discouraged with the results. For two hours they moved about. In listening to the roaring of lions at close quarters one can hear with great distinctness the long low rolling ending to the very loud two-note beginning. The day was devoted to preparations for our departure. is has been truly said that no sound in nature roar. IN ONE NIGHT We 181 reeled the cause of the flashlight failure. and the two stood looking at us and roaring. making the hills around us echo with the to horrible sounds. and the earned the name we had given it during our pre(lion) Simba Camp. but strikes terror to it the hearer only when is delivered at very close range. and when morning came we were glad to return to camp. The one we had seen had evidently been joined by his mate. All the time they sang their duet.TWELVE LIONS crawled into the boma. Our stay in the neighborhood was ended. Then the volume of sound actually makes the We more returned to camp soon after dawn without having had any exciting experiences. then immediately No sooner was the light put out than the blood-curdling roars of two lions broke the stillness of the night. but that camp had vious visit rightly had more than paid for the visit.
after the first three or four hours we saw none. and found then. He.CHAPTER XII FROM SIMBA CAMP BACK TO NAIROBI. " THE END OF THE FOUR MONTHS' SAFARI" SOME days before leaving Simba camp headman the advisability of sending two or I had suggested to the three men to see whether the we could make a straight course to Punda Milia by going over hills to the west of our camp. SOME EXCITEMENT WITH BUFFALO. a march of thirteen or fourteen miles. According to this information it would be two days of easy about twenty-six miles marching So when we left on the morning of May 25th we expected altogether. more or less densely wooded. and from there we could go to Juja. adjoining hill. Game was very scarce. where hoped to find the brindled gnu. On that reaching the Tana we found a trail. luck we noticed three natives on an to act as guide. then some natives passed us. we had By good suspected. however. which we followed for a few miles. insisted that both he and one of the askaris knew the way perfectly. and from them we learned to the next trail. in fact. that none of our men had At four any idea of the way. so we engaged one of them 182 . ZEBRA AND OTHER GAME. and that by going northward to the Tana we should find a trail which would take us straight to I Punda Milia. About two o'clock we came just as to a place where the trail divided. PHOTOGRAPHING WILDEBEEST. we must bear to the right on coming The way was through hilly country.
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At that time we must have been about as near to Fort Hall as to Punda Milia. for the porters It we could procure tired while waiting refreshing. for we walked steadily till after five o'clock. but so used up that they could not have gone much farther. It was almost exas- we need only have traveled in a straight line ten or twelve At nine the next day we reached Punda Milia to find it was nothing but a farm. felt and our water was and even more sorry we sorry for ourselves. and no wonder. though we had been told there was one by our in the country. when from a It hilltop we sighted the settlement fully seven miles away. considering they had been on the march for thirteen hours. so altogether five o'clock breakfast. ill-informed headman. We were ravenously hungry. as us. Whether or not this will prove a valuable crop remains to be seen. and is having excellent luck with a species of sisal. So far the tests of the sisal grown in the higher country show a lower yield of . as miles. so there we were very to tired. for the wretched men who had been The only food so badly misled by the stupidity of the headman. There was no store. wheat and potatoes. for as it we were then on we came to the Fort Hall Road we had simply to follow till Punda was only a short distance to the southward. which Milia. was some sugar-cane.BACK TO NAIROBI o'clock this 183 man said he must leave us. having had nothing since gone. was terribly discouraging. and yet we were still over two hours from our expected destination. to arrive. perating. which proved most was almost seven o'clock when the men began They were wonderfully good-natured about it. The farm is one of the biggest and successfully grows maize. The men were miles behind was nothing do but wait at the first stream and make camp all as soon as the "safari" arrived.
That a man can farm without experience eering or is as foolish an idea as that he can take up engin- any other profession without adequate study. goats and pigs do very well. but as very it attention it has been devoted to there is no way of telling how valuable may . is adopted the prospect must be anything but With a steady supply of water and reasonable intelligence there appears to be no reason that the greater part of the country should not produce almost unlimited crops. Ceara rubber cultivation. The uncertainty of the rainfall is one of the most serious difficulties encountered by the farmers in inland East Africa. and their to their must be attributed as much own lack of knowledge successfully as to the natural conditions. and until a good system of irrigation hopeful. the wool can scarcely compete with that which comes from Australia. Apart from the question most important. The country around Punda It Milia was suffering greatly from the lack of rain. situation is Until these diseases are under better control the rather hopeless.184 fibre CAMERA ADVENTURES than that produced near the coast. sufficiently well many now in farming are not versed in the failures work to give a fair chance to the country. too. in its infancy. which success owing to is settlers. occupying the minds of most of the of a market. As far as the sheep are concerned. of those engaged Unfortunately. there is the uncertainty of the several diseases which have wrought such havoc Sheep. though yet promises well in the regions where conditions are little Coffee does well in certain parts. for the young leaves were already beginning to turn yellow. What East Cattle seem to be Africa will do in the future it is difficult to say. as though the looked indeed wheat would be a total failure. but the pig furnishes as good bacon as could be desired. suitable. of late years.
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the Thika a small.BACK TO NAIROBI prove. 185 other grain depend Maize does extremely and water. with abrupt falls eighty or a hundred feet in height. which so far have discouraged the growers. One of the most promising industries. whereas at the point near our camp mountain torrent. and formed an impenetrable barrier to the wonders below. little care in breeding from the best South Africans. large trees and creepers clung to the steep sides of the bank. its well. is that of ostrich farming. The birds thrive in and though the native birds do not bear as good feathers as the best market demands. The vegetation around the pool was luxuriant beyond description dense tangles of feathery palms. so that they will compare favorably with the best of in any country. cannot hold out any very rosy We at our left Punda Milia about eleven later. is Wheat and on locality Sugar-cane scarcely a paying crop. How is different In the Tana was a where the country is comparatively flat. the grade of feathers will improve. and for the man who has only one or two hundred to start with the country pounds promise. as the areas suited to cultivation are very restricted. the river was from where we had previously seen it. o'clock. while bananas. Beneath the great smooth flow of foamy water. Most fruits are troubled with insect pests. region. if we may judge from reports. and reached the Fort Hall-Nairobi road an hour or so At four o'clock we arrived camping ground on the banks of the Thika. but oranges apparently do well. are too far from a steady market to be worth cultivating any quantity. there is no doubt that with a remarkably well. though they grow like weeds. Considerable capital is necessary for farming East Africa. it quietly flowing stream. . where the water had worn away a large basin between the banks.
the Mile after mile of unbroken landscape. where there was green grass and a scattered growth of country was bare and very desolate. except in the bottom land. where. little is grown. Macmillan's man- ager. We heard that Colonel Roosevelt had shot a hippopotamus in the little river which runs through Juja. Grant's and Thomson's ostrich. built. and as night came on we were lulled to sleep by the monotonous beauty of the song of the Thika River. Zebra were fairly abundant. The the falls was music well fitted to the grandeur of the scene. gazelle. Plains. trees. and as we continued our way to Juja we were struck by the difference between this country which bordered the great Athi spent the past months. if ice plant furnishes the estab- The place is really more of a one may judge by appearances. shooting preserve than a farm. and so also were hartebeest. . a very uncommon animal in these parts. and were given permission to camp on the place. whilst here On arriving at and there could be seen gnu and Juja we called on Mr. and fitted with modern appliances. and that in which we had Except for the small valleys and gullies. The houses are well light. such as electric running water and so forth. His party had also shot a leopard and various other game. ferns in immense number reveled deafening thunder of in the glistening prism-colored spray. The morning broke cloudy and gray. while an lishment with the necessary supply. Macmillan's farm occupies an immense tract of country. with naught to relieve the dreariness but occasional herds of animals and the distant blue hills.186 as it CAMERA ADVENTURES dropped over the rocky ledge. Mr. it reminded one very strongly of the plains of Western North America. and that he had had the good fortune to which is find a rhinoceros. parched and yellow.
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to its The wildebeest is a most difficult animal it stalk.BACK TO NAIROBI The morning and the 187 following our arrival we commenced our camera That they are hunt for the brindled gnu. strange creatures. an animal weighing not much under hundred inches. resembling in a general way those of cattle. . We tried to drive them away. but as with to most of the antelope. East African representative of five the species. The old bulls are frequently solitary in their habits. the only serious drawback being the presence of some hartebeest. have a maxi- mum spread of about thirty-three inches. owing common habit of avoiding cover. either or in singly to herds. In vain did we try to get into a blind without being seen by these sharp-eyed nuisances. which outwardly resemble cattle. pounds. These animals live almost entirely in the open country. and is only by the best of luck that one three may approach to within two or hundred yards. were told that there was a certain gully a few miles eastthe We ward where game came every morning to drink. They go in herds of both sexes. scattered about with the evident intention of keeping an eye on our movements. and like may be seen standing black statues on the treeless plains for hours at a time. the bulls carrying larger horns than the cows. and are very large local in their distribution. the cows appear preponderate in numbers. who cannot understand why an animal gnu (also is not a cow if it looks like one. the The brindled or blue called is wildebeest). with a shoulder height of fifty-two or fifty-three The horns. North American bison. and found the conditions apparently satisfactory for photographic work. but there was always one that had his eye on us. really antelope seems incredible to the average man. so we pro- ceeded there.
came to the conclusion was time to interfere. which had approached from an opposite directly direction. and I felt abandoning the hunt. While thinking it over. informing them of their danger. a small band of zebra left the mixed herd. but the chance of . but when they were still between two and three hundred yards away. when game zebra. and off they went without so much I as questioning the information.1 88 CAMERA ADVENTURES but they would simply run along the top of the bank overlooking and plant themselves on a conspicuous mound. In this way we hoped failed. so after arrangthe gully ing a rough blind I stayed in it while my companion and the camera to outwit the hartebeest. some hartebeest. till finally three of them reached an open piece of ground about a hundred and twentyfive yards away. and when the next game had been feeding. bearers walked on. Slowly they came my way. farther Utterly disgusted at the bad luck moved down. gnu and hartebeest farther came in sight about four hundred yards down the gully. so they galloped down the bank to the big herd of gnu and other animals. After satisfying their thirst they began I fully feeding toward me. Gnu were what I was after. but of course the plot eventually For an hour or more a herd of I had lain concealed in my shelter. and stationed myself beneath some bushes near where the but I had been seen. and expected to have an opportunity of securing at least one picture. herd came to drink they were where I escorted by the meddlesome sentries to a place near had previously been waiting. and had stationed themselves that it behind me. and began feeding in my direction. Only too well did we know how useless it would be to wait for any animal to come to us if the hartebeest knew where we were. the hartebeest Such fiendish ingenuity on the part of like was truly discouraging.
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and the surroundings so confined that no comprehensive view could be obtained. There was absolutely no cover. but all appearing to belong to one system. many of them separated by at least twenty yards. and they show some of the swallows' nests with which the sides of the rocks were covered. As to the game had in the finished drinking for the day.BACK TO NAIROBI making some good pictures of zebra 189 to lose. while the entrances were in deep holes. so I carefully five was too good arranged the camera. the dens had unmistakably been used by generations of lions. or series of dens. filled with vegetation. From the appearance of the smooth worn rocks and the clean ground. so that the only possible method was to give up all idea of concealment and walk boldly toward them. evidently wash-outs. for there were fully ten entrances. but fearing . so rejoined my who had meanwhile discovered a wonderful lion den. In every instance the approach was well hidden by dense thicket. and succeeded in making sures of the trio before they telephoto expo- saw me. we had lunched we decided to go after a large herd of gnu. I made several exposures which came out fairly well. of the openings was a difficult matter as the light was very bad. I therefore equipped the camera with the telephoto lens and started. there I be gained by waiting any longer. and we could not help thinking what a splendid setting this would be for flashlight work if we had the time to attempt After it. beest which Near these dens we found the remains of a harte- had been recently killed. For some time they paid not the slightest attention to me. so there was every reason for To make pictures of any believing that these dens were occupied. which could be seen resting on the bare open plain a mile or so away. was nothing companions.
I Gradu- approached the strange-looking creatures until perhaps two hundred yards. He started at full and the ferocious expression which characterizes these creatures gave the impression that he really meant mischief. Unfortunately the light was not good enough to enable me I to make the an instantaneous exposure with the telephoto lens. we left Juja the following morning. For the hour or so the dense made it necessary to keep to the road instead of going across .igo that they CAMERA ADVENTURES would suddenly bolt I made two or three exposures at long range while ally I many of the animals were still lying down. so that gait. first and headed fog directly for Kamite. They were becoming was within so I restless. so lost splendid opportunity of securing a picture of this apparent charge. and the peculiar combined make the illusion very marked. to Time was and valuable. The tail held high. two weeks must leave Mombasa. looked as though an old bull was going to make trouble. gallop toward us. it appeared to like a hump. when they immediately beat a rapid retreat. For an hour or so several I went after the gnu. Their big shaggy heads held low gave the high shoulder undue prominence. and consequently At one time it the results were not very satisfactory. In running they resembled a herd of American buffalo. but the was bad. but we discovered that the old bull was not coming of the was going as straight as he could to join a part herd which had been divided by my persistent stalking. This ended my go attempts at gnu photography. With the Ameriat seeing can-like landscape one would scarcely have been surprised a troop of Indian braves come galloping across the sun-baked plains. in we had I to Kamite for yet on the way so to Nairobi. I say "apparent" because for us. light and succeeded in making more exposures. made another exposure.
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a few days He had shot several buffalo in the big papyrus swamp. which became more and more numerous as we approached Kamite. That there was some dead animal not far away became more and more apparent. We heard of the good visit luck Colonel Roosevelt had enjoyed during his before. the Just is what might have happened had we met hard to say. To have followed it would have been little short of madness. but I wounded animals rather imagine our predicament would have been extremely serious.BACK TO NAIROBI country. arrived at I We who farm Kamite before noon. Zebra and hartebeest were in herds of thousands. an old buffalo path. This fact rather likely added to the interest of the situlions. pect did not appear quite so inviting the papyrus. and there met Mr. stopping frequently We had not poceeded far before a disagreeable odor assailed our nostrils. Heatley. A dead animal would enough mean They would . Heatley into The prosthe papyrus on the chance of some exciting adventure. though for the most part a game preserve rather than a in the ordinary acceptance of the term. lifted 191 As the fog we saw any quantity of game. much to the regret of the ex-President. We the were also told of three wounded which had escaped into lions same swamp only a day or two ago. believe. which when we saw the denseness of was ten feet high and almost impenetrable. so. or Ranch. which would have been somewhat shorter. had escaped with the herd. which was wounded. while Grant's in fair and Thomson's gazelles were numbers. With great difficulty we made our way along to listen attentively. most of what is owns. tion. Wounded and buffalo sounded promising to us. so we decided to go with Mr. but one of the animals. it is known as Kamite Farm. lions it had been abandoned.
so hurriedly crossed the small . I believe) some white "buffalo" birds showed us where the herd was feeding on the edge of the papyrus in some high grass. made photography was utterly impossible. while the others paid eral in attention to the noise. Heatley forwarded due time. tinued down the outskirts With that object in view we conof the swamp. to it Thinking. and in less than an hour (egrets. Part of the herd took to the papyrus little immediately. headed toward the swamp at full gallop. trace of the lions could be discovered As no we determined to have a try for photographs of buffalo. as it had a broken horn. grass and where it seemed more than likely the buffalo would pass. but they would not come my At last after they had been fired at ten times. Sev- more shots made them move a direction. Needless to say we approached with stronger it the utmost caution. they so they began time to be off. however. though there were signs of some animals having visited the carcase quite recently. conveniently near the food supply. the situation was very disappointing. and take their after-dinner shade of the papyrus. I there were we could not ascertain. How many grass driving. have the trophy we brought in and Mr. we had the satisfaction of seeing a dead buffalo. Heatley rode down as near as he could to the animals and fired a shot among them. but no lions.i 92 CAMERA ADVENTURES nap in the cool feed comfortably. and we were just discussing when a crashing sound attracted our attention. to think it little. that Colonel Roosevelt would be glad out. so The depth we decided of the to try took a position which controlled a clear space where the short. was some time before we discovered the At last. but though the odor origin became of it. PreIt I sumably the buffalo were coming. The head proved it to be a poor one.
THE DENSE PAPYRUS THROUGH WHICH WE WENT IN SEARCH OF COLONEL ROOSEVELT'S WOUNDED BUFFALO. THERE WERE ALSO THREE RECENTLY WOUNDED LIONS IN THIS PLACE .
The only vegetation was some small thorny brush which afforded no shade. but not one Immense numbers of hartebeest and zebra passed by to water. At any moment the buffalo might come to the edge of the papyrus. and ignominously lutely certain they bolted. but I did not attempt to on it their way any photography. To vary the monotony I made several pictures of the large herds of animals which passed us. We took our place on the same success. I had the camera all and the rifle on my shoulder.275 rifle. in the of Roosevelt's for buffalo The next day we kept watch from seven we see. It was but a few sec- onds before they rushed out of the swamp. I waited for telephoto The light was not good enough they wou.BACK TO NAIROBI of a low ant-hill which raised for the herd. and I only had my little . as seemed more advisable keep as much out of sight as possible. and was fortunate enough to . The brutes turned it tail. morning till well into the afternoon. that as soon as the buffalo saw me come. so I stood ready with the single lens. ' work. believing. me within It was an anxious moment. of course. 193 stream which separated us from the swamp. to feeling sure by doing so they would be induced ready. and taking advantage me above the top of the grass. I went a few yards forward. It hill the following day. and seeing one hundred yards of them stood still. just at the moment when seemed abso- would charge. but my efforts were in vain. all come. site We camp did returned to find our tents pitched on the of the previous week. but with was hot work sitting all day in no greater the sun with no shelter. convenient in case of trouble. and they would be likely to see us before we could see them. so as they appeared in doubt as to whether to charge or not. but I did want a good photograph. There were nine of the big heavy black creatures.
but they would never near enough to obtain pictures of any great value. and broke camp to Nairobi. but not least. to the land of Our labors would soon be past. in their recollection they would improve with age. continually. forgotten. while we devoted ourselves and developing. We had marched in four months about fifteen hundred miles. so we had to abandon any further attempts. and had the pleasure of showing the photographs to ex-President . Good fortune had smiled on us almost The best of health had been ours from the moment of starting. The slight dangers had been passed with no results. Evidently the buffalo had been badly frightened by the shooting. We reached Nairobi. which would recall the events of the four months' "safari" more vividly than the most detailed account ever written. but the memory of the pleasures would live for ill many and years. There remains little more to be said. me approach found the We continued exposure to the sun rather trying. for they did not show themselves.CAMERA ADVENTURES secure some rather satisfactory results. so the next day we sent some of the men to printing to watch in our stead. half of that distance being camp-to-camp marches. the long anticipated sunshine all was a thing of the game paradise. A march of twelve miles brought us trip to the Our trip was ended. I record of the trip a collection would bring home with me as a of over three hundred photographs of the African animals. and last. They would prove trophies more interesting and more valuable to the real nature student than the finest collection of dry heads and horns ever taken out of the country. On the way back let to camp I tried in vain to photograph the flocks of spur-winged geese and Yavirondo or crested cranes. for the last time on the morning of June 2nd.
a rhinoceros. like old friends now door who had contributed so greatly to the enjoyment of the life most delightful four months of out- that it had ever been my good luck to experience. I shall return again to this land and renew air.BACK TO NAIROBI Roosevelt. some giraffe and eland. when I came from Mombasa more than four months ago! They were all so new to me then. besides the common game. different these animals little had appeared. 195 On the way to Mombasa I saw. God willing." my acquaintance with the " beasts of the field and fowls of the . they were familiar. while a lion crossed the How railway track not a hundred yards in front of the engine.
it seems better. Some in other parts of the it book. and on the probable changes in the conditions of labor and laws incidental to a new country. At best many of the details as to equipment and cost of "safari" must be somewhat vague. to East Africa difference in cost. If expense is not a serious consideration.CHAPTER HOW XIII ITS TO ARRANGE A TRIP TO BRITISH EAST AFRICA. far greater than whose knowledge of the country is of the facts may have been noted my own. per month who is very economical could do it for less than the lower figure. but in order to concentrate the material so that may be the more readily to found. even at the risk of repetition. put it into one chapter. and you wish to be saved all worry and trouble. so much depends on the man himself and his peculiar ideas of requirement. while he who is inclined to extravagance would need to count on even more than the two hundred pounds. Even seasons make considerable supplies vary greatly in price. as the food goes In a general way the man who must expect a trip of about four or five months to cost him from one hundred and twenty-five to two hundred pounds One that is. a 196 . from London or New York and back. the result of The information my own experience and of conversation with others. COST AND EQUIPMENT " SAFARI " THE is object of this chapter is to help those who are contemplating a trip to the British East African Protectorate.
HOW TO ARRANGE A white guide can be engaged. SUPPLIES.. but will give a fairly good idea of what may be expected: LIST OF SERVANTS. hotel expenses. fly and ground-sheet Bed and mattress I Mincer Spade I i Bath I Axe 8 Plates (assorted) 2 Lamps . licenses. excellent companions. it simply covers the expenses of the "safari" from the time till enters the field its return to Nairobi. according country to be visited by the party. PROVIDED PER PERSON UNDER THE MONTHLY "SAFARI" CONTRACT PERSONNEL i I i Headman Boy Gunbearer 2 Askaris I Cook 30 Porters GENERAL OUTFIT I i Tent. It is only approximate. For the benefit of those who list wish to know the items included in this charge the following is given. railway This price does not include any of the landing charges fares. or riding animals. while their knowledge of the country and the habits of the game ensure the sportsman almost certain For those who wish to know definitely how much undertake their offices expenses will be. their services are in great TRIP 197 There are only a few of them. it In other words. ETC. the outfitting companies at Nairobi (with in fit London and representatives in New York) will to out- parties for a given sum from about eighty pounds to the for each gun per month upward. and demand. They are generally keen sports- men and success.
2 Ibs. Cooking Salt Potatoes 30 7 i Ibs. Tea Chutney Bottle Packet Soap 2 i-lb. Onions 6 i-lb. Tins Coffee 4 Tins Preserved Fruit 4 Tins Fish 8 Ibs. Table Salt i 3 Tablets Toilet Soap 2 i-lb. i i Jam (assorted) lb. Tins Cocoa 4 Ibs. Corn Flour Bottle Curry Powder Worcester Sauce 2 dozen Boxes Matches Bottle . Patna Rice 5 gallons Kerosene 5 dozen Sparklet Charges i Packet Candles 8 8 Ibs. Sugar Mustard 4 Bottles Lime Juice i dozen Soup Squares 1 Packet Bromo Paper 15 Ibs. Tins Potted Meat 4 Tins Baking Powder 2 Ibs.198 CAMERA ADVENTURES GENERAL OUTFIT CONTINUED I i I Cup and Knife saucer 6 Spoons i I Fork Knife-board Fry pan Bucket Corkscrew Chair 1 Lamp (collapsible candle) 2 Pangas (mache) i 1 4 Knives and Forks Coffee pot file Bread oven Screwdriver and Salt and pepper 3 Tin openers 2 Bread molds i 2 Hatchets i Castor Grill Table 4 Cooking pots I i i Washstand 3 Dishes i 1 Box (fitted for naphtha. Bacon Oatmeal Ibs. etc. Tins flour 2 Ibs.) Enamel Teapot glass i Kettle PROVISIONS 4 i 1 y-lb. Dried Fruit 8 Tins Sardines 8 Ibs. lb. 4 Tins Lard Ibs.
seat and bucket Hammer Horse blanket Turpentine Chambers i i Bucket Kibala Rangoon oil Skinning knives Tow ETCETERAS Maps.* i Tent and Fly. COOK i Load Posho and Regulation Equipment. i Suffuria and Senia. native guide. i load Posho. Pepper MISCELLANEOUS i Long heavy Taxidermine river rope Porters' ropes. * Posho is the common name for the men's food. Tins Biscuits i Soap Tins Condensed Milk Ib. . facilities. GUNBEARER i Load Posho and Regulation Equipment. Hanks Nails. SERVANTS' SUPPLIES HEADMAN I Ib.HOW TO ARRANGE A PROVISIONS 2 Bars Blue Mottle 8 i-lb. trophy label. sail twine Ground-sheet file. banking tape measure. tents Sail needles and suffurias Askaris' rifles and ammunition for loads Tickets to label skins. TRIP 199 CONTINUED Fresh Butter 4 2-lb. 4 tins Sausages i Ib. Tea. etc. stabling. Scythe stone Crushed mealies pincers Mealie meal Horse headstall Vaseline Horse tent Saddle and bridle Arsenical soap Alum Laterine tent.
to say nothing of a couple of Askaris.2 oo CAMERA ADVENTURES TENT BOY i i Load Posho and Regulation Equipment. and he bathes when the sun is setting the chill sudden change of the temperature a thing which must at it would probably produce a be avoided. Tent. and a tent boy. African methods appear decidedly crude. ASKARIS AND PORTERS 30 Porters and 2 Askaris. I Suffuria. sounds positively ridiculous. unwise. is best to follow the example who have had . he has the luck to helps in paddling the canoe. 6 Suffurias. headman. To those who have never been in the tropics the idea of carrying a bath seems foolish. and Senia for Gunbearer. the idea of meal from a tin plate balanced on having from twenty-five to forty porters besides a cook. But camping in is Africa is not like camping in North America. not to say uncomfortable. 25 Loads Posho. would be. of those all costs Generally speaking. Greater comfort demanded. for no white man can expose his body if to the vertical rays of the equatorial sun without danger. but in East Africa such a proceeding to say the least of it. Cook and Boy. where the sportsman takes a share of the outfit on his own back. In the North one goes down to the river for the necessary wash. 6 Senias and Regulation Equipment For the man accustomed to the rough camping of North America. and even many items which would be considered luxuries are regarded Yet to the man who has shot in India the East as necessities. and sits on a log (if find one) while eating his crude his knees. 6 Tents. experience.
head in a day. On arriving at Nairobi he informed the agent that he only wanted certain animals. Calculate how much you can afford to spend without making yourself miserable. and the negotiations ended in a most unsatisfactory manner. and the cost of having your trophies taken care of at home. Perhaps the best way with a trip will to give an idea of the various details is connected be to start at the proper end. it TRIP skins are heavy. and what amount you wish to spend after allowing for the steamer journey to Mombasa. the agent to agree to give flat him three months' shooting for a certain sum. in order that he may know how to advise. forget that Nairobi is Do not a long way off. Specify also what particular game you want. COST OF TRIP AND ARRANGEMENTS WITH AGENT In this case money is the first consideration. which necessitated much longer and more expensive trips than could possibly be done at the price. 201 must be remembered that Heads and and in a country like East Africa. are not so cumbersome. when it the camera takes the place of the probably be rifle. Having done that. so that if you write there make . if you are restricted I once knew a man who induced to certain months for the trip. but will many years before the sportsman realizes the fascination of the bloodless form of sport. and. squarely. which the beginning.HOW TO ARRANGE A In taking a large number of porters trophies have to be carried out. where see several thousand collects a great game that is so abundant that one may hunter rifle. In doing this treat the agent and be sure to let him know exactly what part of the expenses you are allowing for. many trophies if he hunts with the The results of the chase. tell him what you want. the ordinarily successful is. write to one of the reliable "Safari" agents.
I prefer a flat sole (without leather. They need indefinitely. a coat of spar varnish occasionally to make them last Mine were bought in New York. my somewhat Beginning with clothing. the country not so last hard on boots as for at least four generally supposed. but erroneously.202 CAMERA ADVENTURES letters to proper allowance for the go and come. I found cases thoroughly satisfactory. each case being designed to hold certain parts of elaborate photographic outfit. their do not handle chance of a Things must be well packed. On the whole. composition chiefly composed of unbreakable. and paying freight and duty on them. called moose or The uppers yet strong. as the porters loads any too carefully. very light. This brings us to the important question of the outfit. Whatever kind of boot you take wear it for a week or two before leaving home. (a Those I had were made of leatheroid pressed paper). Do not rely on breaking is it on your is trip. . and were made to order at very short notice. CLOTHING AND OUTFIT Before going into details field all let it be understood that it when on the your equipment must be arranged so that can be carried in sixty-pound loads. Find out definitely will not what your agent intends to furnish. Personally. commonly. A good pair should months. and fibre therefore not suitable for anything but your personal kit. and there is always the fall. They by are practically and are not affected either heat or wet. Tin waterproof uniform cases are very heavy. so that you have the expense of buying unnecessary things. so as to be sure in after starting it fits. should be soft. any heel) of chrome tanned elk hide. the most important item is the footwear. such as clothing.
though linen-mesh drawers be found cooler and shirts. satisfactory. so have enough stockings to the trip. Gaiters or puttees must be worn. especially where there roads. as the sun makes the oiled leather intensely hot. slippery grass or on wet clay iron Removable caulks. which screw into the sole. again. I TRIP On 203 with particularly heavy toecaps.HOW TO ARRANGE A and tear. leather. The former are cooler. on the uppers. In case of trouble with swollen or blistered feet well to take some sort of good foot-powder. however. Stockings or socks must depend on the individual ideas. Iron caulks or hobnails are necessary in some places. remember it shrinks). as they protect the feet. and do not wind them it is too tight. and some antiseptic wool and waterproof bandage tape in case of blisters. High boots are too hot. so that spare ones should be provided. but more noisy. so as to allow the puttees to thoroughly cover them. Any light-weight outer garment will . will and I should advise for vests. The sole becomes uncomfortably may be greased in wet weather. except on the toes. They will. I prefer grease. The latter I found thoroughly Be sure to have the "spiral" kind. much more comfortable. cotton wool. no account should or oil-like preparation. The proper height should be one or two holes higher than an ordinary walking boot. For underwear. will shrink last for who does your washing. is much hill-climbing over dry. Exten- sion or wide-welt soles are advisable. but do not forget that your tent boy. wool is without doubt the best and it safest (here. any wool he gets hold of. Use fairly heavy woolen but they should have detachable spine pads. for the toe has the most of wear and the thorns are hard on the advise using any oil. will be found most convenient and satisfactory. and the pores of the leather being clogged the foot hot and damp. occasionally fall out.
except in late evenings. or for night the early mornings and if work. lamp either of the mechanical is dark by about half-past six is kind or one to in the equatorial country. is The best tent the wall pattern. be sure that a The is tent can be hired from the outfitters. CAMERA ADVENTURES Knickerbockers are far more comfortable than long trousers. and a large . Any sort of light. compact folding oil table and chairs. so a good lamp a rather important item. stronger be found better than one of metal. less The latter was the more satisfactory. So much for the clothing. for can see no reason why cotton it or linen sheets should not be used.204 do. but is the custom to avoid them). and trust to selling not when your trip is finished. and a loose For material is considered necessary. If anything. If so. is nothing much better than a cork helmet. I believe the former to be the cheaper. the nights are cold. TENT AND CAMP OUTFIT For tent equipment the following with cork mattress. For the washing will outfit a folding bath and washstand of canvas lighter. and a pillow. (I woolen sheets and enough of them. A It hold a candle. tried both drill and a thin woolen material. and was much noisy is Any is sort of jacket an important consideration in stalking. good enough. It is than one made of pith. and not affected by water. but far more durable. there is much difference in the expense. I as they give greater freedom around the knees. It is seldom worn. good one engaged it ahead for you. will be needed: Folding-bed warm light blankets. You may bring your own. with bathroom attached at the back. being and cheaper. A sweater useful you expect to visit the waterproof of very light head-gear there slightly heavier is mountainous region.
especially when probably more harm is is quinine. to allow free passage of air. that I should not advise their being used. it in fact. They may above all is not be used more than once in a month. An ounce the cure of prevention worth many pounds of cure. fly Green rot- proof canvas should be used. it is done by overusing "safari. but remember to things malarial fever to must be avoided. A porter's load is sixty pounds. do so keep clear of mosquito pests cannot It is all very well to say do any harm unless they have previously attacked a fever subject. but mosquito nets for the beds must be taken. A tent large enough two men should not weigh more than one hundred and twenty pounds. which greatly increases the weight. so the tent must be divisible into two equal parts. Mosquito doors are so seldom necessary. A TRIP fly is 205 and above all be sure that the arranged go entirely clear f the ridge of the tent. but you must not forget that your porters have more often than not some malarial germs is in their system. complete with ropes and poles. and to extend to within a foot or less of the ground on either A ground cloth and sod cloth are necessary. the being made of a heavier material than the rest of the tent. side. ble the total weight should be rather less than the for If possito allow two loads dampness. A more intense and permanent green color. We were four months on Part of that time was spent in regions supposed to be .HOW TO ARRANGE enough veranda to in front. Such an argument that the little might hold good were you alone. though in most of the inland parts of East Africa quinine seldom necessary. and are such a nuisance." than by leaving alone. and that in the wilds there are no people from whom they could receive inoculation. and the only way bites. which is too light in far cooler At present the tents are made of canvas. would be for and more comfortable.
as does not become so hot when The bedding may be carried in a strong waterproof green canvas . we did not use it more than was only fifty or sixty grains of quinine between us. I One bite from a well-inoculated mosquito may be the whole trip. rather than black. to the gives an excellent opportunity mosquito that has taken refuge under the bed to annoy you as soon as the lights are out. where mosquitoes are sometimes very troublesome. For the clothes and other personal is effects a strong tin uniform case it best. and hangs to the ground. mosquitoes are not common in any part of the high region of East Africa. and at no time could us. and should therefore be included in the outfit. so avoid at larly all put an end to costs that one say this particu- for the benefit of Americans. though once in a great while we heard one These statements do not apply to Uganda. but have it painted white in the sun. in in North America." offer protection against bites at the ankles. we say they troubled buzzing. The net should be arranged so as to be easily attached to the roof of the tent directly over the bed.2 o6 CAMERA ADVENTURES and during the entire time feverish. known as "mosquito boots. the kind that as it Do not use is weighted at the bottom. As a matter of fact. sufficient to bite. Everything that in may be injured by the dampness should be carried thoroughly waterproof cases. soft and very light boots. and those who have camped There one becomes so accustomed to the pests likely to pass myriads that an occasional mosquito would be unno- ticed. and the damage done before the danger is realized. but really of the greatest importance. It may be thought that it is I have devoted an undue amount of space to this subject. and then after having being bitten by mosquitoes while we were doing night work. A pair of high.
you hire the outfit be sure that everything in good Iron kettles with holes in them cannot be mended. in order that there shall always be one with cold water. cook to I outfit may in it outfitter. purchased at as the native see no use keep buying an expensive fancy will not in decent order. so theft. A thermos flask . and therefore has access good is to the tin box. and a permanganate of potash and a scrubbing brush. well to guard against A list of the contents of the case should be pasted inside the off and checked with the boy. lid. and well to see personally thoroughly reliable. with a lock. as your drinking water must be boiled. Honesty not the besetting virtue of the Negro boys. I should advise having a small tin cash-box. Give the cook and boys ill to understand that a if white man is made by drinking unboiled water. so that money and other valuables may it is be safe. and they do not boil water very well. I A TRIP 207 advise green because it is safer against the attacks of white As your boy looks after the clothes. and that giving up the "safari. A filter is it scarcely somewhat muddy will do no harm. is being done. condition. become ill it will mean Never relax the even in a place where the water ever necessary. For cooling drinking water there is nothing better than the canvas bucket it made specially for that purpose. or set. and will generally settle within a few hours. but will little need thorough washing occa- sionally with boiling water. The cooking home. In boiling water that contains lime use a very small piece of powdered alum. unless your cook to its is This it is very important. If the water is absolutely safe. before he be hired from the is made responsible." is you rule. A large kettle is necessary. it and will probably not be able cook half as well with If as with the rough kind to which he is is accustomed.HOW TO ARRANGE bag. ants. Two buckets should be kept in use.
Do not forget tablecloths and napkins if you want such luxuries. A I small-bore magazine rifle will be used for most of the hunting. and add to one's comfort and self-respect. containing the necessary supply of table utensils. A compact lunch-basket may not be amiss for use when on the march. It will save unpacking a lot of things. as for use chiefly in case of emergency. By way it of suggestion. This precaution kept. though most of the ordinary sizes and patterns may be procured in you all the . provided the kept wet. BATTERY The question of battery is one that must be decided by the ideas I of the individual. and nothing could have been Soft-nosed and solid bullets should be carried more satisfactory. They are light. or perhaps a pair of them. for both weapons. A very useful addition to the outfit is a bag made of cheese cloth or mosquito netting. and enable you to enjoy a comfortable lunch when you feel hungry. should advise a heavy . but the felt-covered is water bottle felt is good enough under ordinary conditions. will add greatly to the length of time meat may be The canteen. therefore more of them should be better to bring with carried. For ordinary work the soft-pointed will be the It is more often used. in which event two shots fired in rapid succession would very likely be found necessary. unless you are prepared to put up with a rough-and-ready set of second-hand articles. On is no account take a single-barrel weapon of this bore.2 o8 will CAMERA ADVENTURES be found convenient for use on the march. used a . such as a charging rhinoceros. had better be bought at home.450 cordite double barrel. ammunition you expect to use.275 Rigby Mauser. as. with which to protect the meat from that flies.
so it is expense has to be considered well to think twice before bringing in is more than is really needed. man who for a two-months' trip carried two thousand five hundred over forty shots a day. so take the hint. I An of a average of five to seven shots ought to satisfy any one. that he could total even if he shot the extreme allowed by the law. geese. except lions. of When rifle. bustard. Do not bring in an unnecessary amount of ammunition. duty if is charged on all firearms coming into the country. or about thirteen shots each for kill rounds every animal. grouse and guinea-fowl. as most people do. and be sure before you fact this advice applies off leave your base of supplies. It is As a matter of always better to take the time to check it is each and to see that as ordered. however. A shotgun may be added to your battery. for after only used for such birds as if ducks. it is A TRIP make 209 definite not wise to rely on the supply unless you arrangements with a dealer. that you cannot use Remember knew more than a certain number of shots each day. you This . snipe. detail great. which was then about one hundred and ninety head. as the duty not refunded when you leave. ordering your supply regardless how reliable you think your is dealer. as should a mishap occur rifle it can usually be remedied at Nairobi. made for your Do not trust any one to do this arrived at Nairobi with The number is of people who have wrong ammunition to everything. all it is It is not. see personally that he packs the kind which for you. is Bear in mind that the clerk interested in the New York or London house not nearly so much or concerned in your comfort as to carry duplicate weapons for you are. It is scarcely necessary an ordinary expedition.HOW TO ARRANGE Nairobi. necessary. or another can be bought there. and are after big game the less shooting that is done the better. Ten per cent.
. A small one is FIELD GLASSES Field glasses are a necessary part of the outfit. Marseilles. Then in the early again renders the glasses morning there is frequently mist. as in all tropical countries. there is a great deal of haze. must be In East Africa. STARTING FOR EAST AFRICA Your lines ticket should to be booked well in advance on either of the two which go Mombasa. caused by the surface of the earth this peculiar blurr. which more or less useless. which sails from Marseilles. is The same may be so said of a revolver. and the French. If one is which so often carried and seldom used. which stops at Southampton. on account of the smaller size. Naples and Port Said. elephants and buffalo.2io is CAMERA ADVENTURES where there are is especially true giraffe. +8 giving about as great a degree of magnification as prism pattern of extra bright illumination Galilean type. It will be seen that high-power glasses are not as useful as those of moderate power. to be of real service. These lines (at present) are the German The East African. is is desirable. A shotgun with buckshot rather useful for stopping a lion or other soft animal at close quarters. if For your night work regular night- glasses should be used. The better than the old but they often become "smoky" from some cause. carried it must be of large enough bore worse than useless. becoming heated. so you expect to do any watching over lion kills provide yourself with a pair. but they carefully selected with reference to the country. and on the plains it No is glass can penetrate difficult to distinguish objects clearly over three or four is hundred yards away after the sun high.
and your clearly the next thing to see that every piece of luggage marked with name and destination. or have some one whom you can trust do for you. the port of outfit. necessary will see you through in most cases. You may amuse This is yourself to on the journey. There is such a wonderful lack of system on some of the boats that even properly marked baggage is sometimes carried past . For the same reason keep bills of all articles purchased. by studying tongue the Swahili language. but if you are wise well worth all it costs. the common it is among your porters and many of the it. Have all packing cases with screw-on See that every piece is lids. and an identification number by which you may know the contents. for the people are wonderfully quick at understanding. On arriving at Kilindini. you yourself may It is I attend to the landing of your including going through Customs let and entraining.HOW TO ARRANGE German boats go either by A TRIP Having your 211 way is of the Suez Canal or by South Africa. and it just as well to have some knowledge of to master the rather complicated You will not find The infinitive verbs. which occupies about sixteen days from Naples Mombasa. Ammunition will be carried on the steamer if properly packed. and more an agent do it for you. natives. Mombasa. This is important on account of Customs. even when grammar and pronunciation ARRIVAL IN EAST AFRICA are faulty. put on board the it steamer. If you have much luggage be prepared pay the excess. which is no very modest sum. too. Obtain to a receipt if you can. ticket is When engaging berth specify the former route. kit. so that they may be easily opened. But even with an agent strongly advise you personally to see that everything gets off the steamer.
in proI curing the license. for it will do no good. except those in Great Britain. boys are often very good.212 the port for which CAMERA ADVENTURES it is intended. unless It you are put up at the customary as soon very hospitable and comfortable club. or you but give them their idea fair treatment. They are a combined day coach and You . he will not like you any better Keep him they become slack for work. like all Customs. over. and thinks there must be something If you promise punishment. which costs though under- stand there is some chance of this being changed slightly under the at new Game Laws. Among 50 ($250) other things there delay having your firearms duly stamped and registered. and make him do is properly. as you land to engage a "boy" to be your personal servant during let your stay in the country. will probably try your patience. Better your agent secure one. Once Never there nothing to do but discharge them. The accommodation to Mombasa is I must pass You might wish do likewise. and airy. For instance. If The native Some of them some are not. ON THE TRAIN FROM MOMBASA On cool the Uganda Railway you will find comfortable carriages. and look after you well. out. you get it. but many it of them are. one of them does anything really wrong. and they carry if on the subject to peculiar lengths. are honest. Do not get excited. under any circumstances pamper them. sleeper. The Customs. and have him ready for you on your arrival at Mombasa. Remember that the trains is go at in least three times a week. will lose their respect. he expects punishment. a good one do not to his him. carry wrong it if he does not receive it. and this year. some are not spoil lazy. That they expect.
so be prepared in once more to pay for excess. and to where you be very comfortable. It is well. to provide yourself with some refreshment. The agents know the country very thoroughly. your luggage. WHAT TO DO AT NAIROBI On They arriving at Nairobi you will be will see to will met by your "safari" agents. and these. and will be able to advise . especially in the way it is of cold liquids. getting ready for your expedition is wear your helmet In the evening an overcoat be done in the the selection way of of your route. The first thing will not be found amiss. however. except in is point of price. particularly the dinner. feels a strong not allowed. and has far more power than you imagine. with good shops and a splendid be deceived by climate. but the newcomer first temptation to do so when he sees the wonderful amount of game through which the train passes. to whenever you go out during the day. you are an agent's hands he ticket. including the buying of your return for which you are charged a small commission. also 213 washing kit. Your outfit should be sent to the agent's store.HOW TO ARRANGE must take your own rugs or blankets and Water is supplied. Nairobi is a fair-sized town. The train stops at certain stations for meals. but do not low temperature. The sun so is nearly vertical. towel. your "safari" outfitter at Unless you have specified to the contrary. Very luggage If allowed free. A TRIP pillow. in will attend to all this. There are three The first and second are little practically the same. but neither soap nor classes. are very good. your being put up at the hotel. Do not try to shoot from the train windows. this Its elevation ensures coolness. Nairobi will have arranged with the Mombasa agent to look after you.
In the order of their importance these may be described: First and most important on his efficiency. and two gunbearers. vary from Rs. THE "SAFARI" comes the most important part of your outfit. see that the headman. the distances between camps. If you have a map be sure it is the most recent obtainable. and plains. 4d. Roughly speaking. beside the headman. a two-man expedition requires about fifty porters. inefficient For the lower figure you would probably have a very man one who had recently risen from the porters' . the This precaution the may maps save you are much trouble. such as where water to be found on the marches. see that the tents are properly pitched. you are fortunate enough to have a good headman. and ascertain so forth. take. keep the porters their various up to the necessary pace when marching. American). select suitable camping grounds. bedifferent cause names given on very often If from those by which the places are locally known. the personnel. and to know the country and the best trails. two or cook. you will not have to bother is much about If possible the many little details. assign to them odd jobs. what game may be expected in the different places. as the older ones are very defective. Now more or less according to the three askaris. inserting the to Mark out the course you are supposed to hills names of rivers. demand.. or 33 cents. is Practically everything depends His duties are to look after the porters. as they are known your headman.zo to The wages Rs_75 per month (the rupee is is. one or two tent boys.2i 4 CAMERA ADVENTURES you as to the best region for what you particularly want. their loads are equally distributed and packed.
serve the meals. attends to the skinning and looking after the animals you shoot and stands by you in any emergency. a special diet. The Swahili headman not as have control over the Swahili porter as a headman of another is reliable. or had been an askari. controls your health. make himself I His wages are from Rs. wash the clothes. have the reputation for the greatest courage and keenness. - should not advise a Somali for this position. or they up material so fast that your supply will run short. and very particular about his food. the who are Goanese. Next comes the gunbearer. prepare your baths. who are the most expensive. to He carries your extra rifle. but the best of them need will use to A good cook an be carefully watched. and the others should be kept locked up until it is time for them to be used. but be is likely to be tricky.io to Rs. to a large extent. meal under the most unfavorable conditions. best. He usually speaks is English. keeps your weapons good order. The "safari" cooks are of every nationality or being able to turn out a first-rate is As a rule. or even more. tribe. The cook. Whatever man you get be sure he tent The boy is your personal servant. they are excellent. Each chop box should contain a complete assortment of food for a given number of days. is supposed in know something about the game.25 per month. which likely to is an advantage. it race. The Somalis. A TRIP is is 215 the best In some ways a Somali headman. but there are plenty of excellent gunbearers among the . as a rule. and generally useful to you. The cook's wages are from Rs. requiring.2O upward.6o. so he is a most important person. economy.HOW TO ARRANGE ranks. look after your clothes. demanding as much as Rs. whose duty is to keep the tent in proper order.
i5 consider themselves very important. and they thoroughly a little is especially promised.i2 to Rs. responsible for their behavior and safe return. Legally the headman may not use fines. some who can enjoy it. but severe discipline absolutely necessary. men. which are limited to sixty pounds (some natives. The porters for a long expedition must be very carefully selected. for your life may depend on his standing by you at a to Rs-75. who They in for a gunbearer ranges from Rs. Only those who are strong and in good health should be employed.2O. It is even worth having them examined by a doctor before they are signed on. they are a is first- when properly handled. Their wages are from Rs. will usually such as the Kikuyu. acting under you. are the are supposed to be reliable armed the sentries. may you punish them by to It is not a bad plan promise a small present at the end of the let trip to each porter who does well. control. and headman. and the doing of any job that rate lot may be assigned to them. At night they keep up the fires and do in sentry work. be trained to the work. not carry quite so much). critical The pay Askaris. time. that the They must never his forget that you are their master. who assist headman keeping order. has complete kiboko (whip). On arriving at the camping ground they and assist pitching your tent. nor without an order from the Court.2 i6 CAMERA ADVENTURES Even among extra pay the porters there are usually easily if native East African tribes. In the event of sending porters for provisions is or letters the askari accompanies them. supplying camp with sufficient water and firewood. Their duties are the carrying of loads (none of the other men the carry anything). If ever your gunbearer shows himself to be a coward discharge him without more ado. On the whole. and them understand that any one who causes trouble .
there are times and places where donkeys or ox-wagons may be used to advantage. in small amounts of one rupee or less. should always be carried to supply their advances. see how many they take with them. such as tents. the others are allowed more. which he keeps will usually dispute the As they accuracy of your accounts. some will not eat meat of any kind. so arrange Besides the food there is accordingly. so that when any of it the men wish an advance on their wages you can check off against their name and number most carefully). cooking utensils. corn. This sounds unfair. Sufficient money. A TRIP 217 The wage for Swahili porters is Rs. extra allowance goes to their "boys. or corn and beans per day. some system of signature should be adopted in order that misunderstandings may be avoided. blankets. The porters receive one and a half pounds of but all flour. are not so apt to stay by you for the Food for the outfit is a serious problem.io. have a list of your whole caravan. When meat is supplied the amount of are not on your pay list. Some will not eat game. but the and you will be surprised to These extra boys. is Every man has to be given It is well a blanket." "posho" different (food) tribes is it reduced. but they trip. and clothes and boots for gunbearers. and a tent to allowed for each five porters. Some natives can be had for less than half that amount.HOW TO ARRANGE will forfeit this present. however. etc. jerseys. is When considering their the porters of well to find out food requirements. some will eat beans and whole maize (the cheapest "posho"). Although porters are the load-carriers for most of the country. (each porter has a number. and water bottles. The donkey carries . rice. a certain equipment which by custom and Government regulations must be furnished.
including driver and span of oxen. you would not be badly crippled. that no oxen East Coast fever. where they are cheap and entirely the natives. as might easily happen your eggs in in crossing swift rivers. may be added your you are going into an inhabited part of the country. but he has the disadvantage of extreme slowness. list if some Americano (cloth). as these are so strict. for this method of transport ascertain what the owing to quarantine regulations are. beads and wire. and carries Before arranging cattle nearly six thousand pounds. Do one basket." requires no food other than what can be picked up even in scrubbiest parts. or two "loads. to see that he has everything that is necessary. but do not take the amount of which it so often accompanies the sportsman.2i8 CAMERA ADVENTURES about one hundred and twenty pounds. He must understand that definitely nothing more will be obtained after you have its left Nairobi. The ox-wagon full about Rs. keeping with the demands of Do not imagine these peculiar people like any sort of . A few spare to blankets. and see that tion. arrange all your convenient order. or one hundred loads. Check each item as is packed. Let the cook examine his part of the outfit. All these things in may be obtained at Nairobi. Check off each chop box. and have a complete not put all list of the contents of each case. Have a list of everything you consider utterly useless stuff off necessary. As your men have been selected and engaged. contents are as ordered and in good condifitted It is well to have one of the chop boxes with such articles as do not divide into amounts in keeping with the week's or two weeks' supply outfits.ao per day. and is troublesome costs when deep rivers have to be forded. soon as outfit in may even pass through the proscribed districts. but try so far as possible to divide things so that should one case be lost.
often preferring such articles to money. headman's ideas on the If a long march to be made. Breakfast is served outside the tent. beds are rolled. or be given only a part of what letters it there. however. By this usually made about two or three o'clock. with no stop at noon. the description of a day's "safari" will perhaps give an idea of how things are managed. The askaris having you are called at five o'clock. We will say that it is the hour to break camp. and while you eat it the tent already ordered the to get up. If for a long to let noon rest them have rest until their meal in the morning. so method camp was that there was plenty . to their is The men may and the or may not breakfast before starting. Before leaving Nairobi ask your agents to give you a with letter to the various merchants whom you are likely to have dealings. is Arrange about your shockingly bad in most it letters. might be of interest to the new hand. and even when you there is your mail you is be old none. The boy has your water ready. and all your effects are put in order. regret to have to say this. the sportsman a great amount of The postmasters at some of the outposts frequently pay not the slightest attention to instructions as to call personally for forwarding will letters. is men struck and packed.HOW TO ARRANGE A bead or gewgaw. their own fashions in beads and wire They like small mirrors and knives. so if you have important In case take precautions against their being lost or mislaid. they will you propose stopping We found it best eat then instead. according subject. bearing in mind that the postal service I places outside of Nairobi. and you lose no time in getting dressed. they will require something before they leave. just as we have TRIP 219 They have in clothing. then march without any long our night's camping ground was reached. but is a word of warning which may save annoyance.
is By the time your breakfast finished the porters should all have their loads ready and placed in a line. The men who carry the loads on their heads should travel at the rate of two and threetion quarter miles per hour. to select You will find that your men always want an old camp site. it no matter how much additional work entails. and almost a certainty of jiggers. and will season. The camping in the rainy ground is selected with due regard to water. particularly They live on the ground. otherwise you run some risk of disease." with your gunbearer close behind. for it is impossible to at what unexpected moment and may be needed. old deserted villages and unclean houses. and laying frequently with serious results. The camp should be on new ground. then the tent boys. for fear of a misunderstanding as to the way.220 of time to CAMERA ADVENTURES have everything made comfortable before dark. very well it is best not to go too far in advance of the porters. You head the "safari. but tell I strongly advise you to rifle. camping grounds. then the cook and one askari. one him come who is a steady walker being chosen as pacemaker. and require a rest of ten minutes or so every hour or two. fuel. Thus you march. On no account should this be allowed. the porters. Do not load yourself down with any unnecessary carry a it weight. who have your water bottles waterproof following (if it be the rainy season). Never go barefooted. and are numerous in dusty places. drainage. even . As soon as the breakfast things are packed you should be ready to start. The rear is brought up by the headman Unless the trail is and one defined askari. and a consequent long separa- between you and your supplies. These feet little pests cause no end of their eggs in the annoyance by burrowing into the flesh. according to the condition of the walking.
A TRIP 221 and let your boys.HOW TO ARRANGE in the tent. watch and watch they fires take. do not shoot time to attend to the proper skin if you intend it is keep it. and these. while the cook has begun porters. and you will be surprised at the number of it is men the job seems to require. and keep the burning brightly till the glow in the eastern sky heralds the birth of another day. if in the rainy season. and others for preparations for the next meal. and within about an hour the whole camp is completed. and other dangerous animals. they are placed on stones or logs and covered with waterproof canvas. say With proper precautions you should never As soon as you arrive select the site for your tent and it how you wish to face. any animal unless you are sure there preservation of its is To to begin with. but you are strongly advised As night comes on. for they are a good-natured lot. askaris and gunbearer have all pitched their little tents. be troubled. an askari stands sentry. large against taking a cold bath in the tropics. This is especially advisable . been sent for water. While being done your boys put the beds up. When the camp is hushed in sleep. The tent is then pitched. after a thorough airing. the men and sing or otherwise amuse themselves. In the meantime some porters have fuel. All the stores are stacked near your tent. Before afternoon tea is served you enjoy the luxury of a hot bath. Always skin an animal as soon as possible after dead. CARE OF TROPHIES In collecting trophies the greatest care must be exercised if you would save the skins of the animals. are put into the tent. fires are built to ward off lions gather round these fires. examine your feet very frequently. who are adepts at the work. The headman.
2. Keep an accurate to list of all animals and of all that are sent to Nairobi for storage. i Stockings. outfitters. salt. brownish the skins which plays havoc with unpoisoned your outfitters as Get back to soon as you conveniently can. or wool. Alum may be used Keep alone or with beetle.222 in the case of lions CAMERA ADVENTURES and other carnivora. with extra laces hobnails and Slippers. A fresh skin may be carried with comparative safety if all day under the scorching sun to dry it properly salted. is for the hair slips very quickly. however. so that they may shot. thorough about the ears. but is well enough for flat rugs. be properly cared for. Your trophies will be packed and shipped by the fill but you must be sure to out the necessary documents for use of the Customs and game records. but by going over carefully some suggestions may be received. mouth. UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED Boots. Be very tail and away. Pegging out injures a skin for mounting. especially in damp weather. CLOTHING AND PERSONAL KIT FOR THREE MONTHS FOR ONE PERSON. and it has the advantage of allowing as an astringent either small. On your return to the task you will find little to do except pay the bills and attend of packing. as soon as possible. a sharp lookout for a skins. 4 . linen-mesh. of very rapid drying. 6 Mosquito boots. It is careful that the skinning feet. It is better. SUGGESTIONS FOR OUTFIT It is not necessary to take everything given on this it list. should be rubbed in freely and very thoroughly while the skin wet. All skins should be thoroughly dry before being put Salt may be used with advantage. i Drawers.
table and tablecloth.275. repair outfit of screws. . CAMP EQUIPMENT. wire. and ant-proof canvas. note-books. gun oil. x 9 ft. Extra spectacles if used. 4 Flannel shirt with spine pad. thermos flask. pocket knife. canvas case for this bedding outfit. tow. 2 felt hat Waterproof Towels. folding rivers. shotgun ( ?). i bath. cleaning rods. ETC. B. 4 blankets. about . labels for trophies. canvas bag and washstand. D. 2 Handkerchiefs Sweater Jacket Steel uniform case Soap. and pillow cases. file.. water bottle (felt covered). alum( ?). varnish and brush leatheroid or other fibre cases are used. with fly and sod and Extra cloth. hunting ?). nails. 2 A TRIP 223 Pajamas. canvas for covering Folding pillow camp bed (must be strong). 6 skinning knives. screw-driver. strong sling cases for these. Brush and comb Pens. corkscrew. writing paper. tape measure. extra sights. sheets (thin wool ?). cordite rifle. (i 3 canvas water buckets. kit. carbolic and face Helmet and cap or Knickers. sharpening stone. chair (compact folding). 2 face Extra toothbrush Tooth powder Nail brush. night glasses. ammunition. pencils. mosquito net. .HOW TO ARRANGE Vests (wool). revolver ( field glasses. cork mattress. will do for two persons). 2 canvas water coolers. glue. all of green rot-proof stores. salt for skins. Mirror Toilet powder etc. axe. etc. magazine rifle. Tent ground (9 ft. knife. boot I grease for soles and toe caps (Viscol found most satisfactory). 2 lamps for cook).450. awl. sewing arsenical soap( if ?). 2 Spiral puttees. rope for use in crossing cord for tying loads of heads and skins.
matches. condensed milk (unsweetened. antiseptic grease. lime juice (this is the best beverage for the hot weather). just as well to leave it you care for such food alone . allow for at least Ibs. bandages of various kinds. antiseptic in dr. foot forceps removing thorns). powder. sardines. per week for each person. scalpel. . this keeps from two to four days after being opened) tinned meats if candles kerosene. permanganate potass. or crystal form. see that they are good). Africa) Tea Coffee (cocoa if liked) Pepper Curry powder Chutney Dry beans or peas i Dried fruits (these are important. a few tins of vegetables ( ?). enough for men who call for it very frequently. Tinned fruit in syrup. scissors. bromide potass. PROVISIONS Flour Rice Biscuits Yeast or hops Baking powder Sauces Butter (see that Potatoes it is good) Oatmeal Sugar Cornflour Onions Bacon Jam Mustard in Currants and raisins Lard (called marrowfat East Salt. such as carbolic acid or bicloride mercury. washing soap. and any recommended by a doctor who knows the country. dry chocolate for eating. some purgative. fine for (for cleansing utensils.. Apple rings are by far the best.224 CAMERA ADVENTURES MEDICAL OUTFIT Quinine. some lotion to allay the irritation caused other articles by tick bites.
HOW TO ARRANGE where there is A TRIP tins. The full list is given in the list of supplies under Monthly Contract. Everything must be in insects will cause trouble." All provisions are packed chop boxes which hold one load. left to 225 or the the so much fresh meat. . The less that is used the better. COOKING AND TABLE OUTFIT White enamel table ware is best. A little brandy may be "sun- carried in case of illness. The question of liquor must be individual. and some whiskey in for the regular downer.
to-day. few are chance of success. and it requires a large amount of patience and application. but every animal that can be shot cannot be photo- graphed. For years as enthusiastic about shooting as any man I could be. but the difficult photographic sportsman must be far more proficient in the art of stalking than he is who hunts with was the rifle. after seeing best outfit obtainable to use I met a man East my attempts. usually is too easy to be really interesting. Only once in a great while it. for work with enough perseverance to ensure a the difficulties are great. Of course it requires a special little outfit for wild-animal its photography. It is have lost all desire to shoot. which were the result of the of experience. considerable knowledge of the Not only must there be a animals and their habits. lens is The ordinary hand camera with short focus practically useless. to Every animal that is near enough be successfully photographed near enough to be shot without the least difficulty. after ten years of hunting with the camera.CHAPTER XIV PHOTOGRAPHIC HINTS AND OUTFIT UNQUESTIONABLY the time has come when the photographing of wild animals must be recognized as a sport. can one in approach near enough to an animal Africa who. 226 . remarked that he had If and a lot had thousands of opportunities of photographing wild animals. willing to go into the Unfortunately. Shooting animals is so much easier than photographing them that there I no possible comparison. not sufficiently exciting.
$F*&$$& ^%s .
and that was no easy is task. as rubber it tire tape. and adheres with greater persistency. outfit All your photographic should be kept in water-tight cases. The reflex camera necessary for the work one of the long-focus type. might suggest here that when tape used avoid the far better. In order to make a picture of an animal the size of a hartebeest he would have to be within fifteen or twenty yards of sort of it. he was going to get at it immediately. and prints on self-toning paper were made immediately. acid hypo. so that in case of breakage or loss I should have had at least a print of the subject. and developed With tanks the task of developing in the field easy enough. tin cases. equipped with convertible lens of high speed. soft sling case of For the camera a canvas or pantasote is better than . and the water for the purpose will be found quite cool enough if used early in the morning. box and a developing tank In my work every plate and film was developed within a day or two after being exposed. camera. and chemicals of any kind in tins. or films able. fixing Developing powders ready mixed and weighed. enough to allow of the telephoto being used without danger of shaking. Plates reli- may be used. and a telephoto rigid The camera must be are better. The friction-top pattern will be found by far the tin and much I less trouble than having to seal the ordinary is is with tape. is must be best. but should as soon as possible after is be kept in sealed being exposed. a complete the outfit. This camera proved to be a small hand or one. lens of the greatest speed. it AW OUTFIT 227 sooner he would have had a splendid col- as he had a fine and anyhow. The surgeon's waterproof kind does not perish so quickly. The former in inland and rather more Both keep well East Africa (not Uganda). with a lens of six- seven-inch focus.PHOTOGRAPHIC HINTS he had only thought of lection of pictures.
and more comwaterproof pact it when not in use. Of course is necessary to use a quick plate. rays are not quite so active fact. an idea that instantaneous photographs are an this idea originated is How hard to say. stirred Plate holders must be dusted frequently. amount The be orthochromatic properties are even more valuable. which is weak . but it is not founded on the actinic ever. and unless the leather really has the disadvantage of holding the dampness. as they decrease the erably. finds its way into everything. Those I used were an American make of double-coated orthochromatic. For all telephoto work the double-coated plates of halation very consid- are advisable. There has been a great deal said about the light in East Africa. though perhaps Howas one might imagine.22 8 CAMERA ADVENTURES It is lighter. less noisy. as the march. wise the pictures will show numerous minute spots. and they gave perfect satisfaction. is the one of hard leather. of the landscape greater vigor to the distant part as they give much than can obtained by the ordinary plate. the magnification ranging from three to if usually five sixty times (equal to an equivalent focal length of from forty to about would be anything between a fortieth inches). In proof you avoid subjects with too much dark of my statement I would point to the many telephoto pictures which with a hand camera (reflex) appear in this volume. there good and very brilliant. They were made without a tripod. so that people have impossibility. The light is is absolutely nothing to prevent rapid exposures being made shadow. and the exposure and a hundred and as it fiftieth of a second. If the light were as weak so frequently it is believed to be this would not be possible. If plates up when on the have been in the otherholders for several days they should be taken out and dusted. fine dust.
THE ANIMALS BEING ABOUT NINETY YARDS AWAY . (3) WITH TELEPHOTO.PICTURES OF HIPPO MADE (l) WITH II-INCH LENS. (2) WITH SINGLE l8-INCH LENS. ALL TAKEN FROM THE SAME PLACE.
Familiarize yourself with the working of the camera. to advise. and it I make many stated changes before answered for the work. On the question of flashlight apparatus I scarcely know how had to My in own outfit did in it not prove satisfactory. and be sure you under- stand how to repair or replace the shutter should it get out of order. owing to the atmospheric precautions against mishap by carrying dupli- cate parts of anything in your outfit which is liable to is become broken. a best. glass By this I mean that the ground and the plate should produce the light. electric would undoubtedly be action. For instance. Test carefully for leaks of in the same degree of sharpness. Trust to no one. the reflex camera totally on its mirror and ground glass. to the One of the most important considerations is man going off into the wilds the perfect working order of all his outfit. but for easy working. . you are going to carry plates. thoroughly reliable its As already device another chapter. and If the plate the sun strike it on all sides. It is well to take is 229 a preponderance of blue. Mechanical devices are perhaps more certain. Even it if you are only going camera see that is in perfect working order. on account of noiselessness and rapidity of but slower. If it is a reflex see that the focussing registers exactly. but test your camera yourself before to use a pocket film leaving home. Do this by placing the camera let sun with part of the plate exposed.PHOTOGRAPHIC HINTS AND OUTFIT where there conditions. not only for light leaks. shows any trace of fog on development have Test each plate-holder if the defect remedied. therefore extra ones cut to fit be carried securely packed between corrugated cardboard inside a wooden box. dependent should injured or lost. A small collection of various-sized screws will also be found very convenient.
The lens for this work is used to ensure an adequate illumination.. They may be used in the hottest weather with water at blood heat. asterisk signifies that the picture of the animal appears in the African Elephant . hypo. . . to the photographic and size you need. must be one of short focus. An book. about eight or nine inches.23 o CAMERA ADVENTURES several cameras are used at once it and when is almost impossible is to obtain simultaneous action. . . Elephas ajricanus Rhinoceros bicorms . It need not have an aperture greater than F-II. An apparatus which will work house will often fail when in actual use. You will find printing your photographs a delight- occupation while in camp. Equus grevyi " burchelli grantt . . What has been said about of the kit applies equally looking after the packing of the other part Be sure that the films are the kind outfit. Should you wish to do any printing on the trip you will find the self-toning papers by and altogether the most satisfactory. so the following names may in some cases be wrong.. LIST OF THE MORE IMPORTANT GAME FOUND AND UGANDA is still IN BRITISH EAST AFRICA There much uncertainty regarding the identification of the African animals. and the only chemical necessary ful is far the easiest to manipulate. .. *Black Rhinoceros *Zebra Grevy's " * Grant's . Whatever device taken it should be put to practical outdoor test. . The flash perfectly in the and be sure that enough powder should be of the most rapid kind.
. .. (sharpei) *(?)Dik-dik " .. Cephalophus abyssinicus . notata Bright's Clark's or Dibatag *Gerenuk. . . " granti brighti Ammodorcas Oryx beisa clarkei Lithocranius wallen *Oryx .. " Uganda Cobus Cob. granti typica " .. . Thomson's Grant's Robert's .PHOTOGRAPHIC HINTS AND OUTFIT *African Buffalo Uganda Buffalo 231 .. .. Gunther's guntheri and others defassa *Waterbuck Sing-Sing Waterbuck Cobus ellipsiprymnus " " . probably others Klipspringer Kenia Oribi .. or Wilde- Damaliscus corngum selousi Connochastes gnu albojubatus *White-bearded beest Gnu *(?) Duiker... robertsi " " . Abyssinian " Isaac's. . Onbia kenyce " " Steinbok Haggard's Abyssinian Kirk's haggard i montana Rhapmceros .. ugand<B Cobus cobo thomasi Ceruicapra fulvoru/ula chanleri " redunca ivardi Alpyceros melampus Gazellea thomsoni Ward's *Impala or Pala Gazelle * " if . or Waller's Gazelle . " . Madogua " kirki Cavendishe's cavendishi .. (?) Harvey's and Oreotragus saltator (schillingsi) etc.. Bos coffer neumanni Bubalis cokei lichtensteini Coke's *Hartebeest " * Lichtenstein's Jackson's or Tiang Topi " " Neumann's neumanni " lelwell jacksoni .. .. .. Uganda (red) Chanter's Reedbuck . .
G. cottoni. including T.. rothschiUi. with probable local varieties or races Leopard Serval. C.232 CAMERA ADVENTURES Oryx. somewhat uncertain species.. Hippopotamus amphibius Felis leo. one or more varieties *Forest Hog. with possibly other or varieties species Felis cereata Uganda Cynciel urus jubatus guttatus Felis pardus Felis serual. . at'is (?) Lycaon pictus-lupinus Local race Aard-vark or Ant-Bear of Orycteropus ager .. fringed-eared Sable Antelope . C. . ..... . tippelskirchi Giraffe recticulata Polamochcerus chceropotamus Hylochoerus meinertzhageni Phacochcerus cethiopicus. and possibly other varieties of pigs *Wart Hog *Hippopotamus *Lion .. spotted striped . . or Serval . African Wild Cat .. Somali Bush Pig. C. . or Giant Bush Pig " including G.. and G... Chetah. Cat .. or Hunting Leopard *Hyena. angasi (tnyald) and spekei (situtunga) Kudu lesser Strepstceros capensis " imberbis Giraffe *Giraffe camelopardalis. .. Oryx beisa callotis Hippotragus niger " Roan *Eland Bongo Bushbuck equinus Taurotragus oryx pattersonianus Boocercus euryceros Teraglaphus scnptus masaicus and probably others.. . Hycena crocuta germinaus " striata Aard-wolf Protelles cristatus septentrion(?) Hunting-dog *Jackals . and varieties.
Guinea-fowl. Grouse of several THE END CENTRAL CIRCULATION CHILDREN'S ROOM . Bustards. Ducks. Snipe. Geese. Ostriches. including two species of Colobus. species. including Spur-winged and Egyptian. etc.PHOTOGRAPHIC HINTS AND OUTFIT 233 Monkeys.. including the Vulturine. etc. Marabou Storks.
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