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And yet, the very newness that can give travel writing so much of its
power creates problems of its own. For the travel writer there is, on
the one hand, the authority of his or her observational eye, and on
the other, the call for humility in confronting the unknown.
Pigafetta, encountering a new people, tries to earn his authority
through a barrage of detail. He attempts to reconstruct their world
for us--what they look like, where they live, what they eat, what they
say--he gives us pages and pages of words, from Patagonia, from
Cebu, from Tidore. But there is little humility, and one can hardly
expect there to be so, not early in sixteenth century, a few decades
after the Pope had divided the unchartered world between Spain
and Portugal,and certainly not on this expedition, where Magellan
and his partners have been promised, in a contract agreement with
the Spanish monarchy, the titles of Lieutenants and Governors over
the lands they discover, for themselves and their heirs, in perpetuity.
And cash sums. And 1/20th of the profits from those lands.
In First Voyage is great gulf between what Pigafetta sees and what
Pigafetta knows. I grew up, in the Marianas, hearing about this gulf.
It is part of why travel writing can be so fraught for me now. On
reaching the Marianas after nearly four months at sea with no new
provisions,"The captain-general wished to stop at the large island
and get some fresh food, but he was unable to do so because the
inhabitants of that island entered the ships and stole whatever they
could lay their hands on, in such a manner that we could not defend
ourselves.". The sailors did not understand that this was custom,
that for the islanders, property was communal and visitors were
expected to share what they had.
I suppose this is what great travel writing gives us: a way to wholly
enter a moment, a feeling, a body. A way to be changed. I can be my
father, marveling at his country, our country, transformed by its
vast expanse. I can be Pigafetta, on the deck of the Trinidad, moved
to write from shock and wonder. And I can be the woman on a boat
in the Marianas, crying out of love for the dead.