You are on page 1of 7

T HE fame of the Grey Dawn type of Dutch aux

-
iliary is, literally, world-wide. Many of you are
familiar with Flying Dutchman, the 22-footer that
By Gerald Taylor White appeared in MI in Dec, 1948, and Jan., 1949. This
design has the same basic hull form but has been
Design by West/own Associates mathematically reduced to an over-all length of
16 feet.
Obviously a boat of this length is not a deep-sea
voyager, but for the man who wants a boat that will
go out in rough water, that is easy to build that is
comfortable, and that will last for a lifetime, there

126 Mechanix Illustrated
127
is little offered that will beat Hans Brinker. stern post. Made up of pieces about 10 in. in
Like all of the Grey Dawns, she requires width with each seam backed with a screw-
no steam-bending of frames. While she fol- fastened oak batten not less than 7/8x1-1/2
lows the lines of the Dutch boats that have in. Around the forward face of the transom,
been used in the North Sea for centuries, 7/8 x 2-in. white-oak cleats should be
she may best be described in terms intel- screwed to form a backing for the planking.
ligible to most Americans as a modification Sampson Post. White oak or locust, 3 x 3
of the famous Gloucester dory, but she has in., mortised into the stem and projecting
more stability, less of a tendency to pound, above the deck as shown. To be fitted with
and a lot more room. a 1/2 x 7-in. bronze pin.
The cabin is not intended for serious Centerboard Construction. Substituting
cruising, but there is sitting headroom and for the keel battens there are 2 x 2-in. oak
a couple of folks who do not mind rough- logs rabbeted 3/4 in. deep and 7/8 in. wide
ing it could cruise for days in her. The best along the inner upper edges. It is very im-
auxiliary power would be an outboard portant that these centerboard logs be
engine hooked either to the transom or to made exceptionally watertight. They fasten
a bracket attached to the stern. to the keel with long screws passing
through the rabbet and bolt through the
Specifications headledges. The headledges are of 1-1/8 x 3-
in. white oak. They extend from the bottom
Deck fittings and all other hardware of the centerboard slot to the cabin roof.
throughout the boat should be of bronze The centerboard trunk is formed of 7/8-in.
or brass. All fastenings should be of Ever- white oak with the pieces approximately
dur, copper, or bronze and should be set in 8 in. wide. To insure watertightness, a
counterbores and fitted with plugs on the white-oak batten, about 1/2 x 1-1/2 in., is
outside. All faying surfaces should be screwed along each seam. The trunk sides
smeared with marine glue or white lead. screw-fasten to the headledges and to the
The lines of the entire boat should be laid trunk logs. In way of the trunk, the frames
down full size from the dimensions given are to be notched over the log and through-
in the table of offsets and lines drawing. bolted as shown. The centerboard itself is
Keel. White oak, in one piece, 3 in. thick, of %-in. white oak built up as shown in the
shaped as shown. Note that the top of the detail and fastened together with 1/2-in.
keel is 7/8 in. above the fairbody line. From dowels. The hole for the 1/2-in. centerboard
Station 4 to 7/8 in. forward of Station 7, cut pin is bushed with a piece of brass pipe and
a slot through the keel 1-1/8 in. in width. the holes through the keel are similarly
Deadwood. White oak, 3 in. thick, shaped bushed. A piece of lead, 7/8 x 6 in., is let
as shown. into the centerboard to overcome flotation.
Keel Battens. White oak, 7/8 x 5 in., fitted One of the best ways to hold the lead in
down tightly on top of the keel between place is to bore a hole through each corner
frames, except in way of the centerboard of the lead with a portion of the hole cut-
trunk, and fastened with 2-in. boat nails. ting the lead and the remainder passing
Stem. White oak, 3 x 5 in. through the oak; then four bolts with large
Stem Knee. White oak, 3 in. thick, shaped washers can be run through. It will be
as shown. necessary to counterbore so there will be
Stem Post. White oak, 3 x 4 in. no chance of the bolts striking the slot.
Stern Knee. White oak, 3 in. thick, shaped Frames. White oak, 7/8 in. thick, each
as shown. composed of five parts: one bottom frame,
Cheek Pieces. White oak, 7/8 x 1 in., two side frames, and two topside frames.
screw-fastened to bottoms of stem, stem The bottom frames are 3 in. wide and the
knee, stern post, and stern knee to take other frames are 2-1/2 in. wide. Particular
planking. attention should be paid to the erection
Stopwaters. White pine, 1/2 in. dia., set drawing, which shows the location of the
in holes bored through the rabbet line at various parts of the frames as compared to
the junctions of the keel and stem, dead- the station marks. The parts lap each other
wood, stern post, and centerboard head- and fasten together with 1/4 x 2-in. bolts
ledges. Sheer Clamps. White oak or longleaf
Keel Fastenings. There should be at least yellow pine in single lengths, 1-1/8x2-1/2in.
five 3/8-in. bolts through the stem knee, a Set at each frame so the deck beam will
similar number through the stern knee, rest upon them. Fasten each at each frame
four through the deadwood, and two with one long boat nail and one screw.
through each of the headledges. Breasthook. Longleaf yellow pine or
Transom. Philippine mahogany or white spruce, about 2 in. thick, to fill in the tri-
oak, 1-1/4 in. thick, t h r u - b o l t e d to the angle at the deck forward of the Sampson

128 Mechanix Illustrated
129
post. Should be screw-fastened from the
outside; then two fillers should be added
outboard of the clamps as shown.
Chines. These are on the outside of the
boat and actually form planks. White oak
or longleaf yellow pine, l-1/4x3 in. At the
stem and stern cleats, they are to be very
strongly fastened and boxed in where
necessary.
Deck Beams. White oak or spruce, 7/8 x 2
in., cut to a radius of 24 feet and bolted or
screw-fastened to the frame heads as
shown. On the undersides, the corners
should be chamfered off.
Planking. Philippine mahogany, white
cedar, white pine, or cypress, 7/8 in. thick,
preferably in single lengths. Not counting
the chine, there are four bottom planks on
each side, six side planks, and one topside
plank. All planks fasten to the frames with
1-3/4-in. screws. If the fastenings are
plugged the screws may be reduced to 1-1/2
in. All plank seams should be slightly bev-
eled to leave 1/16-in. calking seams.
Decking. White pine, 7/8-in. T&G, boat-
nailed to the deck beams and covered with
10-oz. canvas laid in marine glue. At the
hatch and cabin openings, the canvas should
be turned down.
Most Step. White oak or longleaf yellow
pine, measuring 2 x 9 x 20 in., notched
around the headledge and over frames No.
7 and 8, through-bolted to the frames, and
mortised with a 2 x 2-in. hole for the mast.
Hatch. Mahogany, set on 7/8 x 1-1/2-in.
white-oak coamings. A ledge must be
screwed all around the hatch that will fit
down over the coamings. Hooks or other
fastenings should be provided to suit.
Waterways. Philippine mahogany or
white oak, about 7/8 x 7/8 in., except for-
ward, where they should be widened to
2-1/2-in. buffalo rails, as shown.
Cabin and Coaming. Philippine mahog-
any or white oak, l-1/8 in. thick, shaped as
shown. Set in 8 in. from the rail line and
fit very tightly against the deck. Cut a shal-
low groove along the under edge and lay a
thread of lamp wicking, soaked in marine
glue, in the groove. Fasten with long screws
passing up through the decking. In way of
the windows, openings are cut out and rab-
beted to receive [Continued on page 156]

LARGE-SCALE PLANS
will greatly simplify construction. Send $3 to
MECHANIX ILLUSTRATED Plans Service,
Faweett Building, Greenwich, Conn. Please
specify Plan No. B-I9I.

130 Mechanix Illustrated
131
Hans Brinkex
[Continued from page 130]
double-thick glass that's held in place with
quarter-round moldings. To give additional
light and ventilation, two 4-in. portholes
should be installed in forward end of cabin.
Cabin Roof Beams. White oak or spruce,
3/4 x 1-3/4 in, crowned 1 in. in every 2 feet of
span. Chamfer off the under corners. Screw-
fasten to the cabin with long screws.
Cabin Facing. Mahogany. 3/4 x 6 in., screwed
to the deck beams to form the ledge of a shelf
around the cabin and to cover ends of beams.
Cartings. White oak or longleaf yellow pine,
7/8 x 2 in., running entire length of cabin and
cockpit and screw-fastened to the undersides
of the deck beams after cabin is in place.
Cabin Roof. White pine or spruce, 3/4-in.
T&G, nailed to beams and canvas covered.
Spars. Spruce. The mast is built up of 1/2-in.
stock with fillers, as shown in the detail. The
boom and bowsprit are solid pieces.
Standing Rigging. The shrouds and the fore-
stay are 5/32-in. flexible wire properly eye-
spliced at the ends and fitted with shackles.
The bobstay is 3/16-in. wire.
Running Rigging. The main and jib halyards
are 3/8-in. yacht manila The rigging of the
main sheet is as follows: from an eye bolt on
the starboard side of the transom, the sheet
leads up through one sheave of a double block
attached to the boom, down through a single
block on the port side of the transom, then up
through the remaining sheave of the block on
the boom. The jib sheets are double and of
1/2-in. yacht manila. The same diameter is
used for the main sheet. The topping lift is
3/8-in. manila. Since some difficulty may be
had in passing a splice through centerboard
trunk, it is suggested that two feet of center-
board pennant be a piece of brass bell chain
with remaining part 3/8-in. manila.
Blocks. The following will be necessary: for
jib halyard, one single block; for main hal-
yard, one single block; for topping lift, one
cheek block; for main sheet, one single block
on swivel and one double block on plate; for
jib sheet, two fairleaders; and for center-
board pennant, one cheek block or one block
on plate depending upon lead for pennant.
Rudder. White oak, 1-1/4 in. thick, made of
two pieces doweled together, shaped as shown,
with a tiller hole and bolted cheek pieces.
Tiller. White oak, 3 feet 7 inches long, 1-3/16
in. thick, and 2-1/2 in. wide, rounded off and
tapered to l-1/2 in. wide at forward end. To slip
into hole in rudder and be held by a pin.
Moldings. At the rail and sheer, install 1-in.
half-round moldings. At the cabin edge, in-
stall 3/4-in. half-round moldings. •
March, 1951