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There were two basic matter in sewing that u have to know: the seam and the stitch
Seam is the join where two or more layers of fabric, leather, or other materials are held together
with stitches. Before people produce clothes using sewing machine, all sewing was done by hand. Now people more comfortable to use machine rather than sewing by hand because easier and save time. Time two time simple sewing machine development from single purpose machine to multipurpose like portable machine that also able to produce embroidery (the type of deco for garment). In modern mass-production for household textiles and ready-to-wear clothing are also sewn by computerized machines. But still need to combined with hand sewing especially for finishing or deco element of the clothes. In clothing construction, seams are classified by their type (plain, lapped, and French seams) and position in the finished garment (center back seam, inseam, side seam).
There were many types of seam actually, but the most basic seam that usually applied in garment making is plain seam, lapped seam and abutted or French seam. I have notes of seam types that u can refer... so we go to plain seam. Is the common sort of machine-sewn seam that used to attach two pieces cloth held by straight stitch. Two pieces of fabric joined face-to-
face by sewing through both pieces, leaving a seam allowance with raw edges inside the work. The seam allowance usually requires some sort of seam finish to prevent raveling, such over lock seam.
georgette. dart and pleats« and many more seam that you will apply when u start sewing your own costume. . underwear. the two layers overlap with the wrong side of the top layer laid against the right side of the lower layer. It can also be used for decorative effects on coats and jackets. The seam is first sewn with wrong sides together. pvc. flat finish and in the past was popular for making shirts. enclosing the raw edges of the original seam allowances. jeans or denim material or at trouser. A second seam is sewn with right sides together. Cord seam or fold and cord seam in yoking ± mostly use as decorative purpose on shirt. organza or crepe fabric. then the seam allowances are trimmed and pressed. seam for zipper. and it is very strong. Because all edges are enclosed. it will withstand the frequent washing these clothes need. On light fabrics. There other types of seam in the notes that we always use in produce garment such as hem seam or clean finish hem seam for hemline of skirt. Just look through to the seam type notes. the raw edges of the fabric are fully enclosed for a neat finish. The dress sewn with French seam none it to overlock already. So the dress will have neat finishing inside and outside. and children¶s clothes. skirt and etc. nightwear. French seam In a lapped / felled seam. such as leather. French seam always apply to sewing see through or transparent material like chiffon. it gives a neat. shirt and sleeve. Lapped seams are typically used for bulky materials that do not ravel.Plain seam In a French seam or in Malay we call it jahit kelim.
Lapped / felled seam .
Backstitch ± jahit kia: this is one of the strongest and most common stitches. . To produce successful sewing. There were many types of Stitches that all have different purposes.Seam finishing: is used to cover the raw edges of the original seam allowances. is to know how to adapt your stitch types to suit your project. it is quickly executed. It really exists to hold the fabric in a particular position before it succumbs to the sewing machine. And overlocking seam using overlock machine. One might be great for sewing hardy fabrics and another will be more suited to silks or lycras. for embroidery. Backstitching works from left to right and can be used on almost any type of fabric. hand stitch Machine stitch is the stitches that available for sewing machine : straight stitch and zigzag stitch that normally use to sew buttonhole. lace or net 'binding¶ such satin bias tape that has been folded in half lengthwise then wrapped around the raw edge of the seam allowance and is stitched. And overlock stitch that combine straight and zig zag and straight stitch for seam finishing as i show u before. The process may take some time to acquire and it will definitely need some practice. as example to attach bodice and sleeve. needle/ machine stitch 2. through all thicknesses. for decoration on dress. All you need is a needle with a strong knot at the end of make the stitches in and out of the fabric. Or maybe u don¶t confident to sew using sewing machine directly. Bound or Hong Kong seam using a strip of fabric. It¶s simple to start ±you begin with making a few stitches on one spot and then take the needle to the underside. a stitch made with thread and a threaded sewing needle through fabric or leather There were two groups of Stitch 1. catching underside of binding in stitching. While hand stitch normally apply for hand sewing. pushing it through a stitch-space to the left of your initial stitch. Then simply go back on yourself and place the needle back through to the underside of the fabric ± one backstitch will have been created! Basting stitch or tacking ± jahit jelujur kasar: basting is a temporary stitch. Other type is using machine zig zag stich that sewn along the raw edges. the most common and easier type of seam finishing that normally apply today for most garment. hence. Then we go to stitch: Stich Stitch is a single loop of thread or yarn in the textile or clothing arts. so u can tack the fabric with this stitch first then follow with machine stitch.
fold it). Prepare the needle. roll the fabric between your thumb and finger (or.jahit jelujur halus: small. All stitches that i have explained were stitch that commonly use to produce our clothes or as finishing for traditional dress or tailored garment. It works from the right to the left of the fabric and appears as evenly spaced stitches from the topside.is another type of stitch that use for hemming. Same as basting stitch but smaller in size. if the fabric won't roll. even. hand stitches run in and out. Keep going until completion! Blind hem stitch . then secure it with a tiny stitch that catches just a thread or two from the fabric and then a short stitch through the roll (or the edge of the fabric). Slipstitch ± jahit sembat use to secure a very narrow finished edge. there were many other types of hand stitch which can be apply in embroidery especially for deco purpose on costume or other needle works: There were : threaded Backstitch blanket stitch buttonhole stitch chain stitch couching stitch feather stitch fern stitch fishbone stitch fly stitch Interlaced Band stitch Lazy Daisy stitch Long and Short stitch . slightly same with catch stitch but much smaller in size.Running stitch. To prepare it. Catch-stitch ± jahit silang pangkah. the rolled hemming or double hemming. Place the needle to the left and make a stitch in the fabric from right to left. catch-stitch is used for hemming those thick and unruly fabrics. Other than that. The rest u can read from the note i gave. make a few preliminary backstitches and then make a diagonal stitch from the right to the left and then.
To start sewing. where they will not be damaged (such as a tupperware box with lid or tools box). large sewing ruler. thread . first u must >> refer to notes Choosing Your Pattern and Fabric Pattern construction Getting Ready To Sew: Lay-out And Cutting Setting Up Your Sewing Machine Now We're Sewing: Terms & Techniques Pockets Zippers & Buttonholes Sleeve Installation Darts & Pleats Needle / Thread . a quilter's square. small scissors. tape measure. of course sewing machine and many Other tools might include embroidery hoops. bodkin. tracing wheel. tweezer. rotary blade. seam ripper. pins cushion. quilting needles. sewing neeedles. pins. sewing scissors. magnifying lights plus many more items that can make sewing much easier. You must keep your tools and sewing items in a safe place.Tools For Sewing Common tools for sewing include: Cutting mat. snipper. embroidery scissors. tailor chalk or fabric markers.
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