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and after the wedding. says Katharine.” Cover The one-of-a-kind necklace. You tell the piece what to do. “You can do a lot with this piece. “From there on out. a strand of sizeable pearls. or to any black-tie event. “Her dress was backless and had a bow on the lower part of the back” explains Katharine. yet so elegant. and a heavy silk taffeta sash—given to the buyer in both white and black for versatility—the necklace. wore it with a pair of jeans. it appears as though she is wearing a classic strand of pearls. I started sketching a bow. “She can be demure going down the aisle. or perhaps as soon as the ceremony ends. With the sash and diamonds on the nape of her neck. Featuring over six carats of diamonds. only after she passes by does the magnificence of the piece become evident to others. it’s something you can wear on New Year’s Eve. with the black sash in front. is a “statement piece. and in back is the drama of the bow and the diamonds trailing down. along with a coordinating pearl and diamond ring. “It was a chic-hip look. and then came a necklace. and a dramatic look in the back.” says Katharine. “It’s meant to be a subtle look in the front.” ■ 14 One glance at a photograph of a bride in her wedding gown was all it took to inspire a new collection from Katharine James.” It’s a statement tailor-made for a fashion-forward bride who wants to add flair to her wedding-day look without throwing tradition to the wind. “and covered buttons going all the way down. take off her veil and move the bow to the front. I pictured the bride walking down the aisle with the pearls in front. and that’s where Black Tie Bow™ was born. and additional pieces will be introduced shortly thereafter. holidays.” After the wedding. the bride can turn the piece around and wear the bow in the front or off to one side.” Johnson & Johnson heiress Casey Johnson recently borrowed the Black Tie Bow™ necklace and.” says the designer. On The . When the bride walks down the aisle. will be available exclusively at Zadok Jewelers in Houston this fall.” says Katharine.Katharine James Say Hello to the Black Tie Bow By Amy Gurvitz “That was the concept. if she so desires.
.Jewelry by Katharine James.
Photo: Peter S.800. Art Director: Shelby Erickson the iv y cuff For the authorized Charles Krypell retailer nearest you please call 1.487.com .8765 or visit us online at www.charleskrypell. Hurst.
Photo: Peter S. soleil and mocha diamond pavé collection For the authorized Charles Krypell retailer nearest you please call 1.487.8765 or visit us online at www.charleskrypell.com . Art Director: Shelby Erickson the midnight. Hurst.800.
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All rights reserved. booth LC15083 Las Vegas Luxury Salon. Please visit us at Luxury by JCK Salon. Made in the USA. MAK_Mo TJB_Sum . booth 900 & JCK Las Vegas. Makur’s Morganite Collection in their signature 18k rose gold is set with diamonds that harmonize the balance of color and design. call Toll-free Inner Circle 877-771-4246 New York JA Show 1638 Inner Circle New York JA Show Toll-free: 877-77-MAKUR dehago. Made in the USA. 705 JA New York.makurdesigns.com 5/19/09 5:06:59 PM JEWELRYBOOK0509-opt2.makurdesigns.com Toll-free: 877-77-MAKUR www.Las Vegas 1626 booth Luxury JCK 16108 Luxury Pavillion JCK Luxury Pavillion For appointments. All rights reserved.indd 1 Designs © MAKUR DESIGNS ®.M organite by THE FUTURE OF FINE JEWELRY A Perfect Match Designs © MAKUR DESIGNS ®.com www.
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and.. Petra M. celebrating some of the industry’s most stunning designs in wedding-day jewelry.. With the holidays and prime engagement season fast approaching. wedding bands. Michael O’Connor. engagement rings. in this issue we’ve chosen to focus on bridal jewelry designers. which will feature some of the best and brightest companies that design and manufacture their jewelry right here in the United States. Eagle. in this especially challenging year it is essential to take full advanVIEW tage of engagement season and end 2009 on a positive note. John and I wish you and your families a healthy and joyous holiday season. Victoria Gomelsky. it’s time to start gearing up for the all-important fourth-quarter selling season. and look forward to working with you in the New Year. JB Star Welcome to our fall bridal issue. In keeping with the theme. Shelby Erickson. and we hope you find this magazine to be a helpful selling tool. Diana S. This issue also marks the debut of our “Made in America” section. Amy Gurvitz. Bruce Pucciarello. John & Nicole Bromstad Publishers The JEWELRY Book PU BL I S H E RS ContrIbutors Jessica Teisch. Zimmerman. James Garrahan. of course. While this time of year has always played a key role in a business’ success.A New beginning. Patti Matthews. 22 . Ronnie Tsai. The engagement and holiday season presents retailers and designers with the opportunity to turn first-time buyers into clients for life. Audra Presler.
P L E A S E V I S I T U S AT W W W. P R E C I S I O N S E T. C O M O R C A L L 8 0 0 4 4 2 5 6 9 3
FOR A LOVE THAT LASTS A LIFETIME
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14 22 30 44 56 58 64 Katharine James “On The Cover” Publisher’s View & Contributors Giving Back Season to Season Monica Rich Kosann The Jewelry Box Trends & Views CONTENTS on the cover Jewelry: Katharine James 877.8479 Photographer: James Garrahan the Jewelry Book. “classics never fade away. 28 . 48 PlatInuM’s 10 tIPs The top 10 reasons why platinum bridal jewelry is a hot ticket for the holidays.752. Inc. CA. a division of Bromstad Publishing.” SES Creations believes that Fa l l 2 0 0 9 jewelry should last a lifetime. Box 2017. Tel: 707-996-3313.Table of contents 32 Made In aMerIca A new way to think about Made in America.O. No editorial or photography may be reproduced in any way – in print internet or otherwise – without the written consent of Bromstad Publishing. P. Inc. 95476. 52 ses creatIons With their tagline. Sonoma.
com 877. PHOTO: IGOR PERCHUK www. INC.8479 ◆ ‘Bella’s Love’ ™ . CA ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.ALL DESIGNS © 2009 KATHARINE JAMES.752. LOS ANGELES.KatharineJames.
by Jessica Teisch “There’s an old saying. under Anne’s leadership. Recently. “It will evolve and become more specialized as we work together. textures and materials.” says Anne. The necklaces are hand knotted on materials such as silk. we can change people’s lives.” Jewelry has thus provided a way to bestow blessings on less fortunate people.” That principle guides Peter Storm’s charitable philosophy. That’s a real satisfying feeling.” The larger goal is for Siempre Sol to become the first nonprofit to self-fund. and this is something important that we can do for others. setting up a sales network and interfacing with stores. Peter Storm. manufacturer or retailer alongside that person’s selected charity. a nonprofit organization located in Honduras that specializes in handcrafting whimsical jewelry designed and sourced in the United States. The Storms are also seeking a national partner to help build the Siempre Sol brand.” exclaims Anne. . She incorporated that element into the jewelry design as she worked with and taught the women engaged in the workshops at Siempre Sol. the San Francisco-based bridal and fashion jeweler has been giving back to the community. sterling silver and lenca pottery. earrings and bracelets—are playful and whimsical in their mix of colors. “The idea of us working with Siempre Sol developed when we had lunch with our longtime friend and jewelry designer Louisa Elliott. “If you give a man a fish.” Peter Storm Jewelry is playing an indispensable role in expanding the collection and ensuring that it reaches the widest audience possible in the United States.” With the Siempre Sol and Peter Storm partnership. “Peter and I both think that working with Siempre Sol is a fabulous way to give back by using our knowledge and skills to help others. “It makes sense. alive with texture. handcrafted jewelry. a nonprofit organization in Honduras with a workshop specializing in unique.” says Anne Storm.” stresses Anne. the world contains many more rays of hope. president of Peter Storm Jewelry. But if you teach him to fish. burnished and hand-molded pottery that reflects unique ethnic traditions and contemporary creativity. from semi-precious stones to art glass. providing support for three clinics and paying fair-trade wages. assumed the role of sales and marketing directors for Siempre Sol. To acknowledge numerous worthwhile causes. The collection thus far—necklaces. For many years. Serving as design director. “because we know the jewelry industry. Simply by selling this beautiful jewelry. he’ll eat for a lifetime. he’ll eat for that day. and supporting families.” Under Peter Storm Jeweler’s sales and marketing leadership. CEO Peter Storm and Anne are providing marketing expertise.” concludes Anne. translates in English to “always sunny. the organization shines even brighter. ■ 30 Back The Jewelry Book magazine recognizes the many jewelry companies involved with charitable organizations. pearls. “This is just the beginning of the collection. “This is a beautiful collection. “Our sentiment. waxed linen and leather. The hope is that Siempre Sol will become a model for other non-profits worldwide. “ is that people will feel great about wearing this handmade jewelry. each issue features a designer. including lenca pottery—a low-temperature.” says Anne.Giving Siempre Sol. color and fun.” says Anne. Louisa fell in love with the indigenous arts and crafts. “It’s quite amazing when you look at the intricate work these women do.
. Precious. The Best Choice. For Him– Magnificent.668. Resilient. 888. END OF STORY.. 23 23 . Distinguished.WHAT YOUR CUSTOMERS DESERVE. Robust.novelldesignstudio. Eternal.3551 www.com Platinum. For Her– Pure. Rare.
The words made in America rang hollow. reliable and thus good for me.I. Doesn’t sound American. For the next eight years. so that collectively. development and capital improvements.? america the small cars that American manufacturers were producing. By Bruce Pucciarello It starts with the ineffective auto executives who make more money than most of us can comprehend. inferior products are made in America. The technology seemed suited to the car’s size. Legions of Toyotas and Nissans hydroplaned by. Enough people began preferring the foreign vehicles. . They forget to make good cars. most consumer guides rate the Jeep Wrangler very poorly when it comes to safety and reliability. Fast forward to 2009. they forget to leave money for research. They negotiate unrealistic contracts with labor unions. S . I feel like I’m encouraging good American companies to prosper. They forget to work. or patriotic. Car brands that had been the punch line of jokes. he has only bought domestic cars. America began losing its dominance as a manufacturing powerhouse in 1973. My made in America is the tradition of manufacturing companies providing an alternative-training field to college. I buy American products that are well-made. Sometimes we sat in our cars waiting for hours to get ten gallons of gas. Foreign cars were small-boned and fit their frame. Unfortunately. his Wrangler dropped a tailpipe on the local highway. Buying American. Je w el r y M a n u fac t u r er A new way to think about Made in America MADE IN AMERICA OR m a d e in Now let me tell you quickly about my good friend Frankie. Since we were teenagers. but the real point is that. My friend Frank buys the American product because he thinks it’s good for the country. My made in America is domestic jewelry manufacturing. compared favorably to 32 M. symbolizes his patriotism. and that was when public perception of the slogan made in America changed. Two months later with the rain teaming.A. American-made small cars were merely smaller versions of larger cars. to me. Susan Sadler novell . With the oil embargo of 1973 came escalating gas prices. sometimes. Americans considered most imported products to be lacking in quality.there must be a tangible product behind the slogan. But the mantra made in America needs to be quantifiable and not just another marketing ploy. Management and labor are so busy splitting the spoils. Rationing and out-of-gas signs at the pump were commonplace. Once again you see the words made in America in ads and on packaging. America decided imported stuff wasn’t so bad after all. You might ask him how patriotic he was feeling at that moment. he says. He bought his new 2009 Jeep Wrangler because it’s made in America. That way. IN MY MADE IN AMERICA . They forget that the public can’t drive a slogan .T he U. . like Toyota and Datsun. the waves of water cascading over Frankie’s now soaking-wet shoes. Before 1973. the world’s supply of oil was inconsistent.
m a d e in america 33 .
the people who work in the manu. But every seek out the manufacturers that represent year there are less American manufacturers.Forbes. At ev. tomized product. 9-13-09.com. However. manufacturer knows their competition and tells their customers collection of jewelry that is as diverse as it when it does and does not make sense to is national. We are one of the world Jewelry Book will be featuring leaders in jewelry design the best domestic manufacturand innovation. is an industry-wide overview Today. My experience is that the closer a retailer’s relationship is to where his prod. made in America jewelry managing a manufacturing company.to proactively inform retailers about made facturing sector get experience problem solv. We are as adept at choose in advance to explore advancing the technologies relationships that he knows are involved as any country and made in America. The their current products are best manufacturers and retailers domestic and which are are providing and expecting imported. More and more. the highest made in America standards. Isn’t that the beauty of America? do business together. in today’s economy. Available forbes.com will provide easy quicker. jobs.A. American features will introduce you to some compajewelry manufacturers are customization. As it all comes together.* Whether we are tackling large national problems or making our own day-to-day WHO MAKES WHAT WHERE? So. most American-made of the types of products they jewelry comes from the hands buy and what is available on of our most highly skilled the market from domestics or artisans. unlike in I learned almost everything that I know by working in factories. ■ uct is made. With that most sophisticated equipment knowledge.S. a retailer could available. offering rapid turnaround on cus. We use some of the from outsourcers.It isn’t what melts in the melting pot. In the last thirty years. The information products of superior design. more capable of using it than For the next few issues. they are good at it. articles and product time zones. These are compaelry. Internet. quality and service. manufacturers need ery level.5 million manufacturing been there as a profitable product to be sold with confidence.” critical. The most.I. Editorials.Alex Sepkus Katharine James John Buechner Therefore. but good business. that is harder for them to find originality. and they are better option. At the risk of sound. These are times and bad times. With a good American manufacturer. it turns out that. Retailers should ing. that puts the American jewelry manufacturer nies that I’m proud to share an industry in the perfect position to give the retailer a with. supporting our better domestic-jewelry manufacturers is not only makes what where? Most retailers are very knowledgeable about which of patriotic. Through good ers of jewelry today. this will be a A good U. and then owning and other industries.nies you don’t know and give a clearer deficapable. the better. AmeriAmerican jewelry manufacturcans have been designing and ers that have one thing in commanufacturing excellent jewMark Patterson mon: Pride.isn’t M. setting and achieving goals. how would a retailer know who business decisions. with a growing popu. we’ve lost 7. The Jewelry Book communication and reaction time is and jewelrybook.in America excellence. Problem solving is fast because access for retailers who want to find these days aren’t lost communicating across companies. relationships in business are what we cast from it. Steve. always trying to get better. They make and service the product here.nition of companies that you might already be familiar or doing business with. but ing cliché. “Made In America.Com (5-28-09): Online. *Kichen. 34 Superfit M A d e in america Precision Set Jack Abraham .Made in America jewelry has always lation.
while emphasizing name recognition for MADE IN AMERICA jewelry. Jack Kelége 35 . Our goal is to assist in the selling and education of MADE IN AMERICA wedding bands and engagement rings. Our missions remind the retailer that the MADE IN AMERICA designer and manufacturer are always raising the bar of quality. service and most importantly unique designs.Made In America Gallery h MADE IN AMERICA is all about starting relationships with those important first-time jewelry purchasers along with building on existing relationships.
com 36 .jbstar.223.653.Jack Kelége Made h I a n é MerIca america 877.jackkelege.2277 www.com JB Star h m a d e in 800.5343 www.
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lieberfarb.676.com Lieberfarb h m a d e in 973.John Buechner Made h I a n MerIca america 800.2675 www.9090 www.541.com 38 .johnbuechner.
3192 www.hooverandstrong.com M A D E IN Gem Platinum h AMERICA 800.759.9997 www.com 39 .Hoover & Strong Made h I a n MerIca 800.356.gem-platinum.
Katharine James h america 877.391.katharinejames.8479 www.com 40 .alexsepkus.752.8466 www.com Alex Sepkus h m a d e in 212.
recycled and beautiful jewelry made from HARMONY Metals and Gems™. . call 800. All Hoover & Strong Products are MADE IN AMERICA. Buy HARMONY Metals and Gems™ from Hoover & Strong and support the global effort to preserve our planet’s future! It’s no secret that metal mining contributes to the destruction of the environment.759. Today’s jewelry consumers are looking for “green” products. Now you can offer them responsible.com for more information.hooverandstrong. Hoover & Strong DOES NOT buy or use HARMONY metals share the exquisite beauty and elegance of mined precious metals but also have the added value of being eco-friendly without additional cost. We have recycled. Responsible.9997 or go to www. Beautiful. refined and produced all of our products for over 95 years. Recycled. mined metals. In fact. Do your part to save the Earth.Buy Green. one ounce at a time! Be sure to send in your metal scrap for refining and save on your next purchase! To place your order for HARMONY Metals and Gems™. the production of one gold ring can create over five tons of environmental waste.
the JB Star family has been at the forefront of the high-end jewelry industry since the company’s inception in 1946. Whether it’s a one-of-a-kind 11-carat yellow-diamond engagement ring. The father of founder Rafael Fouzailoff was once one of the largest manufacturers of loose diamonds in the Rafael Fouzailoff america world. A passion for excellence is almost literally in the blood of JB Star.” says Rafael.” 1190-003 0143-001 0884-012 4652-001 42 . and instilled his only-the-best-will-do philosophy into Rafael.” says Vice President David Abuloff. who is continually enhancing and fine-tuning his designs to best showcase the spectacular diamonds and colored stones. rubies and emeralds for which his company is renown. it’s clear they’re just getting warmed up. “Jewelry is 5090-001 1631-018 m a d e in our passion. who designs the JB Star collections and also serves as a visionary to the entire industry. each JB Star creation is clearly a labor of love.A Pa s s i o n f o r E x c e l l e n c e By Amy Gurvitz Famed for their show-stopping stones and master craftsmanship. including yellow diamonds. an emerald-cut diamond bracelet or a pair of radiant-cut pink sapphire and platinum earrings. As has been done since the beginning. “What really stands out in our work is the attention to detail. pink and blue sapphires. each piece is expertly designed and skillfully crafted by hand at JB Star’s headquarters in New York City. wearability and sophistication in the way things are done. “You can feel the passion in each one of our pieces. As their passion for jewelry still burns brightly.
5089-001 4656-001 1339-025 1190-003 4652-001 0490-002 0490-001 5048-001 5047-001 43 .
When soon-tobe grooms enter the store. Beauty And Eternal Commitment Signifies Platinum By Jessica Teisch Simon G. Platinum Guild International (PGI) has inspired a passion for platinum by providing information. which “speaks very highly of the metal. is very popular.” Ronda laughs. now let’s find the perfect engagement ring.” says Ronda. noble metal. S E A S O N TO SEASON Tacori More than 80 percent of brides-to-be desire platinum engagement rings and wedding bands for one simple reason: platinum signifies ideal love. retailers and consumers about the superior qualities of platinum.” Ronda’s grandmother. she carries top designers Hearts on Fire. in addition to a unique signature collection. As it evaluates the market. The Jewelry Book spoke with Ronda Daily of Bremer Jewelry.” she exclaims. support and expertise to educate jewelry manufacturers. PGI-USA has chosen to highlight some of the leading manufacturers and retailers of platinum jewelry. Tacori and Scott Kay. the education of sales staff and guests about the eternal value of platinum. “You found the perfect woman. advertises platinum and helps businesses tap the eternal power of the platinum brand. beauty and eternal commitment like no other precious metal. for example. wore her platinum ring for 64 years before she had to have a diamond replaced. Ronda Daily. Bremer Jewelry is a platinum destination that commemorates the most extraordinary occasions in people’s lives.” aptly captures the jeweler’s dedication to superior customer service. Bremer’s managing owner and CEO. of course. practical advice. when they purchased the Peoria store. Today’s platinum designs are just as durable. hand engraved platinum engagement ring. Illinois. And by presenting men with choices in 14-karat and 18-karat gold alongside platinum (their newly expanded Wedding-Ring Gallery within the stores is just finished and ready). has been carrying platinum since 1984.” Ronda explains. Today. Ronda has expanded the stores’ platinum collections to cater to her guests’ desires. “Where Central Illinois Gets Engaged. With two retail stores in Peoria and Bloomington. Bremer’s motto.Ideal Love. “We love platinum because it’s the most important. Tacori’s bead set. married for 68 years.” Most of Bremer’s prestigious designers provide virtually every piece in platinum. Bremer’s 30-person staff is well trained in selling the merits of platinum to prospective guests. the highest-quality watches and fine jewelry—with a focus on the bridal market—and. sales 44 . sales associates tell them. “Their designs are perfect in platinum. Simon G. but Ronda cautions that in any other metal it just isn’t as crisp or as durable. “And platinum is the best of the best. Since 1975. “and because it’s the ‘forever’ metal to match your eternal marriage. Since then..
” Weekly sales meetings reinforce product training. managers and sales staff to serve guests in the best way possible.” stresses Ronda.By the time the man has chosen his platinum engagement ring—any piece can be special ordered—“we know how he’ll propose. Indeed. S E A S O N TO A Jaffe SEASON associates can explain the disparity between metals and men can actually feel the difference. Bremer’s also has a prosperous online business for men already versed in platinum’s qualities. PGI provides Bremer’s with materials including videos that are played on flat screens within the store and brochures to help educate consumers about platinum’s eternal qualities. Bremer Jewelry creates an entire experience for the prospective groom and his bride. Bremer’s provides him with a gift basket containing champagne. PGI has been key in helping owners. ■ Hearts On Fire 45 . such as Terry Sisco of PGI-USA and representatives from Tacori and Scott Kay. “in order to convey to guests the superior benefits of platinum. “We’re very committed to carrying and selling platinum and doing the training it takes for sales.” In the end. Ronda regularly invites industry experts. and when she’s happy. help the sales staff understand the beauty and longevity of platinum and advertise its qualities to a larger audience. Bremer’s longstanding partnership with PGI has been particularly instrumental in the store’s successful platinum sales. he’s happy.” says Ronda. By the time the man has chosen his platinum engagement ring—any piece can be special ordered—“we know how he’ll propose. “you need strong relationships with industry leaders like PGI. Bremer’s goal is to provide the most extraordinary guest shopping experience that it can—and help couples forge a beautiful.” says Ronda. men regularly purchase significant diamonds set in platinum from the Web site. “When you’re in a small industry such as ours. long-lasting marriage.” says Ronda. champagne flutes and a chocolate cake to mark the special occasion and create the most beautiful moment he can. Indeed. “He knows that’s what she desires.” says Ronda. to spend time in the store.” Bremer’s extensive sales training programs and partnerships contribute to its successful platinum sales. “Women want platinum.
CE NT URIONJE WE L RY. COM / WWW.888.4697 / 5 16. 3 77.COM / 1.427. 5 909 .SAVE THE DATES January 30-February 3. Arizona INFO @ C EN TUR I O N JEWELRY. 2010 | Tucson.
An expanded selection of bridal jewelry is like an insurance policy against recession Jewelers with a wide selection of bridal jewelry have weathered the storm better than those who don’t sell bridal thanks to this oft-repeated truism: People are still getting married. with December reigning as the most popular month to get engaged. If the key to making sales is offering a big assortment. Purer. Less concerned about falling 401Ks than those who are already married. the bridal consumer is young and still very optimistic about the future. particularly now as we head into the all-important fourth quarter. the typical bridal customer spends more money on engagement and wedding rings. Don’t forget that one-third of all engagements happen between Thanksgiving and Valentine’s Day. According to the 2009 Brides. platinum is a retailer’s best bet for guaranteed profits. a 43% increase over 2006’s average cost of $4. the current average cost of an engagement ring is $6. Research based on the Platinum Guild International’s (PGI) mystery shopping program shows that retailers almost double the likelihood of making a platinum sale over other metals when they carry a wider selection of platinum styles in their showcases. this is it. Don’t believe us? Consider these points. 2. rarer and more durable than any other jewelry metal. If ever there was a time to dive into the bridal category. 1. therefore. Bridal customers are young. then the same goes for platinum inventory.White Note The top 10 reasons why platinum bridal jewelry is a hot ticket for the holidays Rhonda Faber Green Striking the By Victoria Gomelsky Bridal and Wedding Events Now is the perfect time to promote platinum jewelry to bridal customers. 48 Shaesby Sasha Primak Bulgari . pundits have begun to declare “green shoots.” This is music to the ears of retailers. 3. optimistic and.435. willing to spend more money Even in tough economic times.348.com American Wedding Study. It’s high time to take advantage of the lifting economy Amid signs that markets have taken a turn for the better. The next three months are your opportunity to minimize the losses of 2009.
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And let’s face it. offers platinum and diamond pendants that retail for approximately $600. There is now more affordable platinum jewelry in the market than ever before When the platinum price teetered above $2. Gold and platinum prices are virtually on par—this won’t last forever Over the past year. Don’t miss out on an opportunity to nab a customer for life Once a customer has stepped up to platinum. for example. get out of the jewelry business and into the “business of jewelry. you can capture a customer and keep them coming back at a higher transaction price all through their lifetime. research suggests they’re three times more likely to buy platinum again. 5. isn’t to suggest they have the same value. and therefore. Platinum’s intrinsic value is worth talking about PGI’s mystery shopping program found that when sales associates describe platinum as “pure. According to PGI’s mystery shopping program. by expanding your selection of platinum bridal. ■ 50 Michael C. Platinum is 30 times more rare than gold.” “the best” and “worth the price. you invite both the bride and groom to the store for the wedding-band purchase. their prices remaining within a few hundred dollars of each other. Carpe diem! Right now. two people equals three platinum rings. but platinum’s higher transaction price means that selling a piece of platinum bridal jewelry brings in more incremental dollars. PGI recommends that after selling a platinum engagement ring to him. analyze margin dollars.” Analyze your sales by metal type. when sales associates encourage the customer to look at platinum wedding bands during the engagement ring sale. 8. a considerably better value to consumers now. 6. 9. They started to look at creative manufacturing methods. That. In other words. they more than double their odds of making the sale. Fina Sasha Primak . stone-setting methods and gemstone choices to provide the high quality of platinum 950 to their customers at accessible prices. These styles are phenomenal bargains for retailers looking to build customers for life by accessorizing brides with entry-level platinum pieces. Therefore. designers with foresight knew that consumers still wanted the very best metal for their longterm fine jewelry purchases. In other words. Stuller. the propensity for that customer to return to that store increases by six-and-a-half times and the customer is three times more likely to consider the purchase. not volume. Only a small step up is required to get the consumer the very best in metals. A platinum sale earns more incremental dollars Margins in the retail jewelry business are tight across the board.4.” and confidently show platinum to a customer as a first choice. however. all signs point to a favorable retail climate for the upcoming holiday.000 per ounce. 7. Selling one platinum ring is like selling three PGI’s top tip to beat the recession with your platinum business is to take back the wedding by looking at the engagement ring transaction as the perfect moment to capitalize on additional sales. Jewelers with a significant platinum investment stand to reap the greatest rewards. earning more dollars is the point. not percentages and target value. 10. gold and platinum have danced a tango on the commodities markets.
no matter what.instead of reducing their budgets.This isn’t about optimists or pessimists. Find out why bridal is the place to be..com has tactics for attracting the one group of consumers that.” -Modern Bride Magazine Survey Jan 2009 “By communicating the intrinsic value of Platinum to the customer.com Feb 2009 “. . And platinum is the metal to have. there’s one group that is more optimistic than ever–today’s bride. This is about realists..platinumguild. engaged couples have reprioritized and plan to spend their dollars on items that will last forever.’” -National Jeweler Aug 2008 www. “While the state of the global economy has taken a toll on most Americans. will be shopping this year. manufacturers and retailers are taking advantage of this trend towards ‘quality over quantity.” -Bloomberg.
A focus on quality. SES Creations. Shlomo and his staff also cater to customers and retailers via the Web. Based in the heart of New York City’s diamond district. passes his discerning eye before it reaches the customer. pictures and gemstone weight information. every order. providing uncompromising customer service and offering exceptional value. bracelets and one-of-akind rings. In 2007.SES Creations With their tagline. under the leadership of Shlomo Elias. And. president and owner. which focus on bridal. with every single piece of jewelry manufactured right in the New York office. We work together. Shlomo takes a very hands-on approach to each piece. Shlomo has put a premium on customer service. SES Creations values its longtime tradition of updating classic designs using the highest-quality materials and unsurpassed craftsmanship. including pricing. “The success of my customers is a direct reflection on me. Recently. has been designing an impressive range of bridal. He has found that the key to a thriving business is building solid. who can find the company’s entire collection online. By Jessica Teisch Big Love Collection Perfect Twogether Collection For two decades. “classics never fade away. the company launched a new Web site for retail jewelers.” SES Creations believes that jewelry should last a lifetime. “I partner with each one of my customers. the company 52 DESIGNER PROFILE . Bridal customers can use the site to locate retailers near them. including special orders that can be delivered in as little as two days. backed with quality assurance and triplechecked. and vice versa.” he says. Since founding SES Creations in 1990 with his wife Sarit (“SES” stands for “Shlomo and Sarit Elias”). SES Creations’ success also lies within its innovative collections. long-lasting partnerships with customers. diamond and precious-stone jewelry. value and customer service ensures that SES Creations’ jewelry fulfills that aim. from pendants to earrings. all of whom he knows by name.” SES Creations makes anything possible.
from 14. which started with a diamond stud surrounded by pave diamonds and quickly expanded to pendants. including gold. SES Creations might be best known for its bridal collections. Big Love. Styles range from the traditional. in early 2009. white gold.” designer introduced its first designer line. Shlomo also designed the 53 Aura collection. Catering to the sophisticated couple and symbolizing unity and strength between the bride and a groom. SES Creations’ jewelry appeals to a wide range of consumers. such as round. sizes and metals. both Big Love and Aura offer exquisite jewelry at price points that belie their superior craftsmanship. Besides possessing fine craftsmanship and beauty.” ■ profile sarit Bridal Collection . just like a newlywed couple. classy gifts. Like Perfect Twogether and SES Creations’ other collections. Then. Even the shank can be made to order—brides-to-be can choose plain. fun-loving women desiring a mix of the classic and trendy. crosses and hearts— make for whimsical. to fancier cuts like the Asscher and cushion. SES Creations launched its Perfect Twogether Collection. traditional look combined with refined. “Objects may appear larger than they actually are.” says Shlomo. princess cuts and emerald cuts. but Shlomo’s other designs also cater to sophisticated. from young. The pieces in the collection.or channel-set diamonds. all crafted to perfection in various styles. updated styling. “Jewelry is my passion. materials and designs. The company recently launched another collection. I love making beautiful pieces. through expert craftsmanship and superior customer service.” These new styles were inspired by a client who desired a large diamond stud at a reasonable price point.Aura Collection “Jewelry is my passion. drop earrings and center stones ringed by smaller diamonds. Perfect Twogether presents elegant engagement rings and weddings bands that fit perfectly together.and 18-karat gold to platinum. rose gold and platinum. through expert craftsmanship and superior customer service. succeed in designing “classics that never fade away. I love making beautiful pieces. The collection features classic three-stone styles with matching bands. just-engaged couples to more sophisticated women. these bridal sets offer great value to couples—which is one reason why retailers all over the United States have embraced the collection during these economic times. give the illusion of a much larger center diamond or gem. succeed in designing “classics that never fade away. He and his talented staff. He and his talented staff. The whimsical geometric shapes—from ovals to triangles. which bears the slogan.” says Shlomo. pave. With its classic. which won an international award from JCK Magazine. All engagement rings will fit snugly against any wedding band in the collection. featuring oversized diamond pendants crafted in various metals. Sarit Bridal. which has created enthusiasm nationwide and represents the most exciting collection in SES Collections’ bridal category to date.
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her attention to detail is extraordinary. “They’re substantial and beautifully crafted. Brides wear 56 Kosann’s pieces as they walk down the aisle. her jewelry has captured the minds and hearts of people of all ages and walks of life. Madonna and Katie Holmes keep their loved ones near in their favorite lockets and charms. It was Kosann’s remarkable skill as a photographer that inspired the creation of her company. a beloved pet. So is the thought behind it. Even men are getting into the act. cherish and.” Kosann explains. Kosann has also designed a line of purses that include a sterling silver image case. Celebrities such as Catherine Zeta-Jones. The Gate collection reminds one of peering through an ornate gate to catch a glimpse of what’s inside. But for everyone. and also give them as gifts to their bridesmaids. “Living With What You Love. Her bestselling book. You can choose to share what’s inside—or not. By Diana S. Kosann’s guiltless approach to luxury heirloom lockets. for others. it’s a photograph of a child. “They contain secrets. They look as good with a pair of jeans as they do a fabulous gown. They are timeless keepsakes that are designed to preserve the images of those we love. or a diamond necklace. and her round citrine locket is accented with eight surrounding diamonds. Her second book. The locket features two single-image cases finished with MRK’s signature floral pattern and five diamonds. or give as a gift without feeling extravagant or frivolous. “The pieces have a great feeling about them. “I love the look of antique cigarette cases. a lock of hair. because of its very personal nature.” chronicles unique moments in the lives of families and children with whom she has worked. “Ones that husbands give to wives. And you don’t have to just wear one piece.” is due out April 2010 and shows how to decorate with photography and family heirlooms.” she says. or a memory. a favorite charm. They can be layered with other jewelry. “My lockets are also mysterious. “I would buy them DESIGNER . charms and image cases is creating a sensation. “The Fine Art of Family.Monica Rich Kosann Guilt Free Luxury In an era when many high-end brands are struggling. it’s an accessory that is both eternal and.” For these reasons.” she explains. Zimmerman PROFILE Award-winning designer. wearing her fobs on leather straps. most importantly. coral beads. Monica Rich Kosann is both an artistic genius and a genius at telling stories through her award-winning blackand-white photography.” she states. Be it an 18-karat-gold and diamond doubleimage locket or an engraved sterling silver charm bracelet.” For some. Kosann refers to her collections as guilt-free purchases—the sort of upscale gift you can buy for yourself. but in the business of making memories—the kind people love. “I create image pieces in both 18-karat gold and sterling silver that are intended to become heirlooms. grandmothers to grandchildren. photographer. Her bracelets celebrate the uniqueness of an individual’s life by telling the person’s story in gold or silver charms.” As with everything Kosann designs and produces. priceless. mothers will hand down to daughters. Her “Forever Faithful” engravable 18-karat-gold dog charm features an intriguing cats-eye spinner. buy—both for themselves and as gifts. author and entrepreneur extraordinaire Monica Rich Kosann says she’s not in the fashion business.
and modified them to hold pictures. magical and romantic. or that very special. high-end retailers such as Bergdorf Goodman. they deserve a special place. They are personal.“My pieces are about people and life. When friends started asking to buy them as gifts for their friends. Barneys and Neiman Marcus.” she says. decided to head off to Italy. sentimental. sell her line of jewelry and image cases. “My pieces are about people and life. They are personal. Rod Kosann. I sometimes gave them as gifts to clients.monicarichkosann. memories not only deserve to be preserved. her passion and her art. Whether it’s an image case to set on a coffee table.” Sales grew so fast that she had trouble filling all the orders with the antique pieces. and that is what she creates. where many of the finest cases were made. a locket to wear around your neck. so she and her husband. It’s elegance over extravagance. the former president of Anna Sui. Today. Together. “uniquely you” charm bracelet. They found and purchased the original molds of several of her favorite pieces. For her. as well as over 80 upscale specialty stores. www.” she says. Kosann uses her intuitive vision to bring joy and love into an art form that is often more about the size of a stone than what it symbolizes. I came up with the idea of starting the company. she and her husband have built the company into an in-demand brand—so much so that Bergdorf Goodman has opened a Monica Rich Kosann instore boutique.com ■ 57 profile . sentimental. It is her genius and her gift. designer at flea markets or antique shows and display my pictures in them. magical and romantic. and refinement over fashion—guiltless luxury that will live forever.
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” he says. While he constantly reinvents himself.” Each sterling piece is hand carved and has many prototypes until perfection is achieved. a Charles Krypell is always a Charles Krypell. A major anchor for Charles’ sterling collection are his newest cuff designs. and are studded with gems ranging from green amethyst to smoky topaz. white and yellow diamonds into his sterling designs. brown. Indeed.” Their success attests to Charles’ staying power.Charles Krypell t re n d s a n d v ie w s hot & noteworthy For more than three decades. “Although I have been designing for over 33 years. “I try to be ahead of the curve while watching trends and listening to my collectors in trying to reinvent a classic. one collector at a time. Charles is also 64 first to incorporate black. linked over time by sensuous design.” explains Charles.” says Charles. “but by her initial reaction when she opens the box. I romance it. They boast bold and dramatic handcarved lines in combinations of sterling and 18-karat gold. I never sell jewelry. Designed for women. Fashion-forward. “To me personally. “A woman does not calibrate her worth by how much a man spends on her. citrine and mother of pearl. elegant three-dimensionality and a deep understanding of women’s desires.com By Jessica Teisch ■ . Charles’ sterling silver collection has inspired a revolution in the jewelry industry. it should be a cuff. Charles Krypell has been transforming consumers into collectors. Charles has weathered the storm—and with his passion for design he will continue to cultivate consumers. the cuffs have elicited excitement nationwide as many fashion-forward gurus have attested to saying that if anyone were to purchase one piece of jewelry this year.” charleskrypell@gmail. it took me over two years to fully understand the silver customer and how to mature into this design element. In this economic climate. he applies his magnificent talent and deep vision to broaden his collector base. constantly evolving and timeless. “I achieved this with my new cuffs with an updated flare and styling never seen before in our industry. Charles explains.
to silver. features pendants. I’m honored to be doing this. Approximately every three months. In the summer of 2006. it’s gone for good and will not be reproduced. lacy. “There’s a magic about these pieces for everyone. Orna has expanded the collection and reached out to others in need. combined with Zohrab Istanboulian and son Henri’s creative. such as those radiating out of yellow and blue diamonds. such as small schools and Ethiopian children in Israel. from rose gold with diamonds. The first is color. bracelets. With the overwhelming demand for her prayer jewelry. signed and assigned a serial number.com By Jessica Teisch ■ . named after a Jewish prayer for healing and faith in God (the “shema yisrael”) and representing light and hope (“or”). and the second is animals. Katy Perry and Rosario Dawson. gold and enamel to two-tone yellow and white gold. rings and earrings inscribed with words from the sacred Hebrew prayer. and once a piece is gone. cufflinks. she reached out to him and decided to raise money to help him by designing jewelry representing a prayer for him and the unity of the world. a rose-sapphire alligator ring and a blue-sapphire lion’s head bangle. “From my hand to their hands. so celebrities and non-celebs alike can be assured that they’ll never spot anyone else wearing their same piece. www.com By Amy Gurvitz ■ t re n d s a n d v ie w s hot & noteworthy Shema-Or New York-based jewelry designer Orna Simkhai devotes her heart and soul to her work. it holds an even more remarkable story. scalloped pieces in precious metals. has resulted in a devoted following of jewelry lovers who appreciate the finest things in life. While each jewel varies drastically from one to the next. China and Singapore by the end of next year. Bright candy-store colors abound. eye-catching designs and masterful craftsmanship. the collection has been whittled away. Orna crafts her delicate. This exclusiveness. While Zorab’s works of art are currently available to private clients and in select retail stores. While the Shema-Or collection is exquisite. She later discovered that the soldier had uttered the Shema when he was injured during 65 the war. By the end of the third month.Zorab For more than 40 years. there are two signature themes woven through each Zorab collection. in Bombay.” Email: orna@shema-or. pink sapphires and kunzite. Touched by his bravery and spirit. Jews and non-Jews alike. Each Zorab creation is one of a kind. Her Shema-Or collection. the company plans to expand and open three flagship stores. all of which are designed and manufactured in-house. Animal shapes can be found in a snake bangle with onyx and white chalcedony.zorabcreation. the Istanboulian family has been working together to create the spectacular Zorab jewels that have graced the red carpet on the likes of Scarlett Johansson. Zorab introduces an impressive new collection of 200 to 300 baubles.” she says. Orna saw a story about a young Israeli soldier who was severely injured in the war.
TM The Most Brilliant Asscher Ever t re n d s a n d v ie w s hot & noteworthy Israel (Izzy) Itzkowitz. who adore the superb sparkle of the AcP in both solitaires and set in bands. and certainly not “simple. the AcP offers an extraordinarily high degree of brilliance—no other cut can match it.995. After all. Easier said than done.” After six months of trials and a lot of diamond dust later—(“it wasn’t chocolate we were cutting. Quadamas 213. the new AcP always comes out on top.” he says)— Izzy succeeded in creating his patent pending Asscher-Princess cut. “over a glass of wine and a cigar. as Izzy explains. which he calls AcP. however. one day. When measured in diamond light performance tests. especially brides. what could be better than the beauty of an Asscher unless it is a brilliantly beautiful Asscher-Princess combination. though. He has always loved the Asscher cut.” the idea came to him of creating the “Most Brilliant Asscher ever” by combining a traditional Asscher with a Princess cut. is the reaction his cut is getting from consumers. with its parameters always reaching the maximum. when it comes to diamonds. So. and who doesn’t—it’s really quite beautiful—but he felt that in terms of brilliancy it just didn’t compare to the Princess.9595 66 . It is an Asscher cut above the girdle and a Princess cut below. Even more important. who invented the Princess cut back in 1980. With its 81 facets. was feeling a bit restless awhile back to create something new. Was it worth the trouble? Definitely.
Just as important. “The Morganite Collection has been very well embraced. So will a fresh addition in which Makur makurinfo@yahoo. Morganite Collection has been very well embraced. A natural gemstone from the beryl group. morganite boasts fine pink or gentle lilac hues that perfectly complement rose gold and bring warm. By Jessica Teisch ■ Arlene Hagopian makurinfo@yahoo. Whether it is their signature rose gold. and naturally brilliant”. effective—less expensive than pink diamonds. diamond accented suites or the award-winning Morganite Collection. Best in Show in colored stones. the basic ideas of color. and how it compliments our 18kt rose gold settings. Just as important.” says Arlene Hagopian. the Morganite Collection is the perfect match Introduced in 2007.Makur Banking on Morganite t re n d s a n d v ie w s t re n d s a n d v ie w s hot & noteworthy hot & noteworthy Morganite by Sometimes the simplest things make the most impact. the combination of morganite and rose gold harmonizes color and design. Entirely hand-crafted. the combination of for Makur’s acclaimed 18-karat rose gold jewelry. who works with husband-designer Masis. Whether it is their subtle—join together to create something extraordinary. and naturally brilliant”. diamond accented suites or the award-winning signature rose gold. A ring from the Morganite Collection won the 2008 JCK Arlene continues. the jewelry compliments our 18kt rose gold settings. morganite boasts fine pink or gentle lilac hues that from the beryl group. “Retailers and consumers truly appreciate the elegant color and durability of morganite. Entirely hand-crafted. Arlene continues.com will be combining a new element with rose gold. Morganite Collection.com By Jessica Teisch ■ 67 71 . and how it appreciate the elegant color and durability of morganite. form and texture—while seemingly Designs. At Makur Sometimes the simplest things make the most impact. “The perfectly complement rose gold and bring warm. morganite is cost universally appeals to women. earthy tones to life. form and texture—while seemingly subtle—join together to create something extraordinary. they are adding new designs and suites to its existing collection. earthy tones to life.” says Arlene Hagopian. At Makur Designs. the jewelry universally appeals to women. “Retailers and consumers truly who works with husband-designer Masis. the Makur Designs look remains highly identifiable. the Makur Designs look remains highly identifiable. A natural gemstone morganite and rose gold harmonizes color and design. Introduced in 2007. the Morganite Collection is the perfect match for Makur’s acclaimed 18-karat rose gold jewelry. This Hagopian Arleneseason. morganite is cost effective—less expensive than pink diamonds. the basic ideas of color. to debut at Las Vegas. A ring from the Morganite Collection won the 2008 JCK Best in Show in colored stones.
Stars like Christina Applegate and Julia Louis-Dreyfus dazzled in deep and midnight blues. ■ Red t re n d s a n d v ie w s hot & noteworthy . sparkled a little more.” Television’s most luminous stars lit up the red carpet at the 61st annual Emmy Awards in September in the widest spectrum of colors seen at any awards show to date. and what this says on the jewelry front is that colored gemstones will continue to gain popularity among consumers looking to channel the red carpet looks of their favorite celebrities. without a shadow of a doubt. From bangles to gate-link. a platinum and diamond tie accent by CliQ. The boldest and brightest statement goes to AnnaLynne McCord. who wore a one-of-a-kind platinum necklace named “Shibuki” – meaning “Splash. Christina Applegate matched her blue gown with a 60-carat sapphire ring set into blackened platinum by Lorraine Schwartz. Toni Collette contrasted her gown’s color with a jade and platinum bracelet. while Jane Lipsitz chose platinum and blue topaz by Chad Allison. Jessica Lange added glamour to her wrist with a platinum and diamond bracelet by Kwiat. Glenn Close wore the most impressive pair of platinum and diamond 68 By Michael O’Connor. others chose to highlight pivotal areas with amazing jewelry pieces. Even the more conservative guys. there are several items at which retail jewelers should take a second look. Gem-Rich Colors This year’s red carpet made a definite statement: Color—all colors—are hot! Celebrities like Hayden Panettiere and Ginnifer Goodwin remained true to the red and purple hues favored in past awards shows. Tasteful gowns with elegant hair and makeup were the backdrop for some of the hottest jewelry trends we’ve seen as of late. Men on the Move: Male celebrities have been making more of a jewelry statement over the past few years. Jessica Lange looked amazing in seafoam green. The look of a colored gemstone also plays to the casual glamour exhibited on this year’s red carpet. If research and world-class marketers are correct in predicting how celebrity trends translate into consumer desire and purchasing.Every Color Works On The color red has now been proven. combined with wider open-neck treatments. like John Krasinski in his platinum and diamond cufflinks by Neil Lane. Leighton Meester channeled a Grecian goddess in her white Bottega Veneta and Olivia Wilde floated in soft platinum grey by Marchesa. Mary Hart showed she can kick it up a notch with multiple platinum and diamond bracelets by Chad Allison. Phyllis Smith from “The Office” stood out in her platinum and diamond chandelier styles from Jacob & Co. to be “the new black. Bracelets continue to be one of Hollywood’s favorite pieces. Drew Barrymore chose a gorgeous blush by Monique Lhuillier. Match this array of rich color with the desire for bigger jewelry. Tina Fey made the most forward-thinking statement. while Glenn Close and Tina Fey preferred the formality of black. Lisa Edelstein highlighted her hands with a one-of-a-kind platinum and diamond flower ring by UK designer Fei Liu that can also be worn as a pendant. while Lorna Scott chose a simple platinum and diamond bangle by Jacob & Co. Seth Green turned heads in what’s become the hot new accessory for men on the red carpet. And these chandeliers swung from almost every earlobe. Blake Lively took a bolder approach with her platinum and diamond bracelet with large rock crystals by Lorraine Schwartz. from wide to layered. while Julia Louis-Dreyfus wore a delicate platinum and diamond earring by Neil Lane. Statement Makers While some celebs made a statement with their gowns. Olivia Wilde turned heads with a classic pair of drops by Kwiat. while Kristin Chenoweth glittered in a platinum jeweled number. Kristin Chenoweth went for the beautiful blue of an aquamarine set into platinum by Tiffany & Co.” The necklace was designed by Yuka Kobayashi for Japan’s Kuwayama and is part of Platinum Guild International’s iconic collection of necklaces inspired by water. barely an arm was bare. Focused Glamour The simplicity of beading and ornamentation on gowns this year. Jewelry and Style Expert earrings that extended three quarters of the way down her neck. has harkened the return of the chandelier earring. Fashion guru Nick Verreos and Leslie David Baker from “The Office” decided to push the fashion envelope slightly by accessorizing their lapels with vintage platinum and diamond lapel pins from The Singer Collection. punctuating the back of her simple black gown with a platinum and diamond vintage pin that highlighted a gather in the dress.
hot & noteworthy Julie Benz in Gem Platinum. 69 Blake Lively in Lorraine Schwartz. Julia Louis-Dreyfus in Neil Lane. Glenn Close in platinum and diamond earrings. Toni Collette in a platinum and jade bracelet.T re N D S a N D v ie w S annaLynne McCord in a one of a kind necklace by Yuka Kobayashi. .
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charleskrypell. yellow and white diamonds and multi-colored sapphires in extraordinary designs For the authorized Charles Krypell retailer nearest you please call 1.Charles Krypell’s Precious Pastel Collection exemplifies pink..Photo: Peter S. Rare and unique.487. Art Director: Shelby Erickson.800.8765 or visit us online at www. Hurst.com ..