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In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

1
The stuff of the insides
of the thing you’re reading…

03.… Prolog
06…. Preassembly
8-9… Parts Diagram
13.… Building the beast
34.… Painting the beast
46.… Epilog

Acronyms used in this manual


GW-Games Workshop FW-Forge World IP-Intellectual Property

• Hubble Telescope Images courtesy of NASA and the Space Telescope Science Institute under free
use for public domain. Visit http://hubble.nasa.gov/ and http://www.stsci.edu/resources/ for more
information.
• All other images are copyright 2008 Atom Kahut, Squid Brain Productions.
• This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 United States License. To view
a copy of this license, visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/us/ or send a letter to
Creative Commons, 171 Second Street, Suite 300, San Francisco, California, 94105, USA.

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In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Mon Historie
Welcome to the second installment of the Jabba’s Guide to Building Stuff series. I
started my foray into Games Workshops miniatures in the early nineties. Epic! Space
Marines changed my hobby life. On the cover you can see my first Titan. Not much
has changed since that time. I’ve painted over 10 other miniatures! My Warhammer 40K
army now consists of more than 10,000 points of Blood Angle badness and one
Warhound Titan. I had plans to pickup a Thunderhawk Gunship and a Mars pattern
Warhound Titan at the upcoming Games Day. However the recent Forge World
newsletter with the sneak peak of the Reaver Titan has changed my mind. Maybe I’ll
cover that build at a later date…

I started thinking about making this manual after I opened the box and saw that there
were no instructions. But alas I am lazy and often think great ideas which never see the
light of day. But the good guys at http://www.miniwargaming.com/ decided to have a
painting tutorial competition. This really set in motion me getting off my ass to actually
put this together.

So if you don’t like it, blame them. If you do like it, give me all the credit and go buy
stuff from them! Normally my instruction manuals contain photography and
iconography lifted from the websites and books (in addition to my own photography).
Most IP law is complete and utter bullshit. I don’t make any money from what I do, I
don’t even get widespread recognition like they alleged of people who use copy written
material. If I’m adding to the content-in fact filling the void left by lack of content, then
they should be thanking me. But since I’m creating this with the added intention of
contest submission-I have stayed legal, this time. Feel free to send this to your friends,
take it to Kinkos and print out a full color version. And if you work at Games
Workshop or Forge World-you should sneak a copy of this into every Titan box you
sell.
Regards, Jabbakahut

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Prolog I love Space Marines, and there’s nothing wrong with that. They’re
awesome beyond compare. Some people don’t understand the reason for
the Apocalypse compendium. But for those who started playing Epic
Space Marines and then moved to 40K-it has been a dream a long time coming. I’ve
wanted to field a Epic sized 40K scale army since I first purchase the original Rogue
Trader book in 91’. Some purists may feel as though I’m slighting the Mechanium or
Imperial Guard by including a Titan in my Space Marine army. Screw them! The way I
see it, the Adeptus Mechanicus has an intimate relationship with the Angels of Death.
Techmarines spend year of their training in the Forges on Mars. And it is well within
reason for a Chapter to request assistance from the Adeptus Titanicus in handling of
extreme situations (during the crusades the ships of the Adeptus Legiones included
Titan drop ships).

Once I was convinced of


the fluff reason to include
this awesome presence in
my army, and there were
rules which would make it
possible (thank-you
Apocalypse)-I headed up
to the nearest Battle
Bunker in Glen Burnie,
Maryland. I dropped an
insane amount of money
and drove home.

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In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Prolog
In interest of full disclosure I must admit that I’ve never really played 40K. I love
the models and the fluff, just haven’t found a group to play with yet (almost 20 years
now, I promise I’ll play one of these days). Currently about 55% of my army is out of
the box, 80% of that is assembled. About 15% of that has been primed. And only 11
actual models have made it to completion (the last one complete over a decade ago).
Along the way I’ve painted about a dozen or so other models. So what right do I have
to create a painting & modeling guide? Over the years I’ve dabbled in just about every
creative art. I believe artistry is a skill in itself. I have background in painting of various
mediums, drawing, graphic design, and scratch built construction of many different
project. The difference between my last 40K miniature and this one are worlds apart.
The studying and participation in various art forms will make all other projects that
much better.

My kitchen doesn’t have food, it has Space Marines. You’re not going to get Golden Daemon tips in this guide.
I’m far from a master painter (dare I say I’m barely an amateur).
But with miniatures I’ve learned that you need to be happy with
what you can do and work on improving it. If you want a show
quality piece, just keep practicing, and practicing, and practicing
(or visit the guys at http://www.bluetablepainting.com/). I own
every GW hobby book ever produced and I fervorently read
‘eavy metal back in the day. I really recommend checking out the
different modeling sections at the http://us.games-
workshop.com/ website. I’ll try to fill in the techniques I used
throughout this manual, but I’m assuming that you have a basic
grasp on modeling to begin with.
I’ve got a stupid amount of modeling tools. I went over the basics in my first
guide (which can be downloaded or viewed here http://www.scribd.com/doc/2058395/
JGTBS). Again I’ll have to assume you have the basic tools at hand. The more you
have, and the more specialized they are-the easier things will be. But you don’t need to
have much. The basics will suffice; hobby knife, hobby saw, sand paper, etc. Don’t
buy tools from game manufactures. Games Workshop makes great models, but not so
great over-charged tools. I love http://www.micromark.com/ -their prices are fair and
the selection is phenomenal.
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Preassembly
The box is huge and you feel proud walking out with it. It is a
conspicuously nondescript box. The only indication that this isn’t a box
of porno is a small sticker on the side. It’s nearly the size of the Space
Marine Battle Company box set, but not nearly as pretty. I really wish this
came in a box worthier of its contents; there are some great photos on the
FW website which they could have used. With the box open, you realize
that it’s only this big due to the packing material. And I must admit that they
do a pretty good job of packing everything. I presume this is mainly for
those who receive them shipped. Once the pieces are stripped of their
cushioning they occupy about the same space as a Land Raider box.

Everything about the Warhound is impressive. The Plasma blaster is as long as a Land Raider. I half
considered just mounting it on one! How awesome would that Land Raider variant be? Along side another
which sports the Mega Bolter! But that may be a waste of money. So I decided to build the Titan instead.

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Preassembly
You need a lot of space for this project. I live in a 400sqft one bedroom apartment. My living room
is a computer room, and the tiny adjacent kitchen acts as my shop. VERY IMPORTANT! Check to see
you have all the pieces. I would even suggest doing this before you drop the cash in the store. Getting
replacement pieces is beyond difficult (see the last
section of this book).

Once all the pieces were free-I spread them out based on approximately where they might end up. I
had to guess. Why? Because this thing has no instructions! The folks at the Battle Bunker were able to
include a 2 page pamphlet on the topic. The Forge World website isn’t the easiest to navigate, but you can
find the instructions at www.forgeworld.co.uk/warhound.pdf I only call them instructions in the loosest
sense. It’s more like a tip guide. Gives you some pointers here and there, but nothing to really help you with
the monumental task which you are about to undertake (and I’ve skipped enough steps in this guide to
disqualify it from being a manual).

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Rear body piece (which attaches to the hips) Exhaust pipes (not shown)

Rear carapace vent

Carapace wing

Head assembly

Plasma Blastgun Carapace wing servitors

Interior head details

Interior body details

Body elevator

Rear toe and ankle joint

Ankle pistons
Ankle socket

Toe knuckle
(different from rear knuckle)

Knuckle pistons

Toe piston
Middle toe (longer one)
Right & left toes

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In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Parts Diagram
Main body piece Rear carapace vent
Carapace wing Vulcan Mega Bolter Body top vent/engine assembly
(interior, exterior & servitor cover hatches)
Void shield projectors
Rubber hose

Interior lights?
(I put one on the outside at the rear
of the Titan, the other went to the

Hose fittings

Hips/cod armor Hip pistons

Thigh & greaves

Hip/leg ball joint

Hips

Knee

Lower leg greaves

Lower leg with ball joint

Knee pistons (I don’t remember what the crossed out ones were for.
I was missing one set of pistons-I can’t for the life of me figure what
happened to these other unknown pieces).
Plasma chambers (I got 8 for some reason)
Hose fitting fixture mounts (attach to weapons)
Main body access 9
I can only guess that they presume you will figure it out along the way. And by cross-referencing
different photos from the website I was able to (mostly). But even then-it wasn’t until recently that I realized
that the servo skulls actually attached to the various servo-arms and guns. And really, 500 bucks and you
couldn’t make a nice detailed manual? I’m doing it for free. To be fair, they seem really busy; they’ve had
the notice on the website for six months now that Currently due to high demand there is a delay in
shipping orders. Due to the unprecedented demand for certain models delivery may take
longer than four weeks. So I guess they’re at least being honest. But already I’m getting too
political…

The details in the schematic for construction of the foot are invaluable. This is by far the most
complex part of the model. Depending on how you assemble it; you’re looking at 152 pieces. Of which 68
are both feet! To put that in perspective, the Land Raider is only 66 pieces (not including the detail/marine-
through-hatch tree).

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In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

You’re probably use to using a polystyrene cement (like the GW one) for plastic models (which
actually melts the plastic together). With the metal models you have to use superglue. You could use
superglue with resin (do not use polystyrene cement), but I decided to step it up due to the size weight of
this model. I did a quick experiment with various Loctite adhesives and the Elmer’s Ultimate glue. Hands
down formula 416 won out. You can pick this up at various hardware stores or check out the website http://
www.loctite.com/

Notice how in the end I wasn’t able to fully break the bond, I could only chip away at the surface while the bonded side remained.
Working with resin is a completely different game than plastic or metal. Both FW and GW offer some tips which can be found here http://
www.forgeworld.co.uk/resinmodels.htm and here http://us.games-workshop.com/games/40k/apocalypse/painting/forgeworld/default.htm
Starting from the bottom up I cleaned all the pieces and attempted to get a good dry fit. The molds
from FW are a bit suspect. Some pieces are flawless in their fit and finish, some without any mold lines to
speak of. Yet some will contain mold shifts that are nearly impossible to fix. The flashing (the thin resin
membranes) is pretty easy to clean up. Every large piece suffers from air-bubbles (which you would think
they could fix by purchasing a $700 vacuum pump, but I guess they’re busy designing stunning models).
Some vents can easily be cut with a hobby knife or clippers, but some will need a hobby saw. You want to
be careful with this part, many times I nearly cut off an important part of the model or completely left a vent-
thinking that it was suppose to be there. When sanding, be sure to use some sort of breathing apparatus
(see: cover). Apparently resin dust is very bad for you. Even when using the mask I could later feel the resin
in my lungs. Trust me, don’t mess around with this stuff.

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I wanted to get all the sanding and shaping done before I washed the pieces. This way I could get
all the dust off of the model before assembling. Washing this thing became the bane of my existence. I ended
up trying half a dozen different cleaners. I suppose it’s possible that I received a model which happened to
have an unusual amount of release agent left from the mold. But this stuff would just not clean up. This is
problematic since it will prevent the primer from bonding to the resin (which was an entirely different
headache). This means your final piece will be flaking paint-not good.

Be careful not to cut off any fingers you may need in the future (hint: thumbs are important)
I tried every tip I could find (with the exception of using a high sugar based drink like coke). I used
dish soap, dish degreaser, floor cleaner, countertop cleaner, window cleaner. I tried soaking, dipping,
spraying. I used sponges, scour pads and cleaning brushes. Some parts were fine, and some would never
come clean. The detail in the model also prevents using sandpaper in certain areas. In the end I did the best
I could and moved forward. I recommend a strong cleaner (the degreasers worked well), spray and scrub
with a sponge and brush, soak and repeat. Resin is porous (filled with little holes), so give everything a
couple days to dry.

There is something cool about Titan pieces drying next to dishes.

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In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Assembly
You could conceivably construct different sections at the same time. For example; building the feet
and the carapace at the same time (which is how I did the painting). This being my first Titan, I just started
from the bottom and worked up. But while you’re waiting for the glue to set-feel free to start on other areas.
Just keep everything from the waist down in one build (critical to get the balance of the Titan correct).

I should note that I wrote all of this post the completion of the
build. It’s only in hindsight that I’ve been able to thoroughly analyze
the Titan build on a meta-level. I feel reasonably comfortable telling
you to just build the legs whichever way you want and that due to the
incredible design-everything will work out. The amount of pivot points
and areas of articulation is staggering. It’s conceivable that no two
Titans would ever have the same pose. As long as you put a little
thought into it all-everything should be fine. But for the purpose of this
elucidation I will attempt to explain how these 90+ parts will form the
base of your Titan.

Feet
I suggest playing with the feet for a while, dry assemble them
into various poses to understand how all the joints work and where the
balance feels right. I built the first foot flat so that I could get an idea of how everything goes together and
provide a stable platform in which to base the rest of the model. With the foot flat you will have the pistons
in the mid extended position. I attached each toe segment then pinned the entire length in two sections. The
GW staff from the Battle Bunker strongly suggested pinning. And I totally agree. With a model this big and
heavy you want as much protection and support as possible. I feel that my Titan could easily survive being
knocked over on the table without any damage. By the end the legs contained about 20 pins.

13
Once all the toes were pinned into place I dry fitted the pistons. When cleaning the pistons I
retained the greatest length possible to allow for whatever pose I might have in mind. Estimate the length
needed by placing them in the approximate position. Then cut off a little less, try again, the piece should
barely not fit. Sand or shave slivers off until the fit is perfect. The mold shifts on the cylindrical pieces are the
worst (see crude caver drawing #a). The
problem is that you can’t really leave it alone
(as it won’t fit into the corresponding hole). If
you try to gap fill it-it will be too big to fit. I just
shaved them down as little as possible. The
best solution would have been to cut the entire
thing off and use some aluminum tubing to make
new ones.

I suggest completing one full toe first.


Once one is connected to the ankle you will
be able to compensate for any changes with
the unglued toes. I didn’t do this for one of the
toes and now it doesn’t touch the ground.

Notice that there are many


parts which will need a
shave to fit properly. Also
see how I almost ran out of
shaft length.

Trim as needed.

You can get away with building the feet any way you like without much consideration for the rest of
the model, the legs and hips joints will be able to compensate for most variations. Just realize that the Titan
will rely on two legs for balance, and these legs are dependent on four toes. I believe that you could get
away with a half stepped foot using only the three forward facing toes for stabilization. But for sake of ease I
suggest using all the toes for support. And if you want to make a giant base for your Titan, you

14 could have one foot in the air coming down to crush your enemies! Just be sure to use some
really big wire to armature on the stable leg.
In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

For the second foot I went a little more


adventurous. Will Hayes has designed an
incredible model here. The feet can be
positioned in any number of ways, and the way
it all goes together ensures that nearly whatever
pose you conceive of will work. I used a
slightly lifted position. I didn’t want to go for a
full step since I didn’t want to base the model
and I needed the full support of both feet. You
can see that some of the toe knuckles are so
extended that I nearly ran out of piston length.
Once they were glued I drilled through their
entire length to provide one pin for support. The bent knuckles require a couple pins to secure to the ankle
socket. You want to do a lot of dry fitting for these complex pieces which will support the entire model.

Just check out the level of detail!

Most of pinning is about making estimations. This can be intimidating if you’re just starting out. It
would be nice if there was some mathematical equation which could remove any uncertainty, but that’s just
not in the spirit of the hobby. When you start building models you will be scared to guess or experiment (at
least I was). But learning to use your gut when it comes to modeling has been the most important
skill for me. I guess I wouldn’t recommend getting all crazy with experiments when building a $500
model, but in the end it’s about having fun. 15
Pinning is a rather simple process. I use various sizes of brass rod to do my pinning, but the size you
use for figures is just too small for a Titan. I wanted this thing to be heavy duty. I made a trip to the hobby
shop to pick up some larger stuff for the Titan. Take the brass wire and estimate how much you’ll be using
by holding it up to the pieces to be pinned-then cut a little extra (always cut a little more length than you
need, trimming more is easy, stretching brass is hard). Using a hobby drill or Dremel, drill a hole in the first
piece. Often times it will be imperative that you take into account how the two pieces will mate (see crude
cave drawing #1). Anymore I just eyeball it. If you’re off by some you could put a slight bend to the brass
rod or just over bore the hole with a larger drill bit. It can be a bit complex with odd shaped mating surfaces
(i.e. any ball joint or curved surface).

Lining up the second hole can sometimes be problematic. A good tip is to use a shorter piece of rod
in the hole already drilled, slap on some paint and mate the pieces. BAM! You now know approximately
where the corresponding hole needs to be (you will still have to gauge the angle yourself).

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In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Just completing a foot was a reason for celebration. It’s good to reward yourself for these small
steps. Each time I reached a milestone I patted myself on the back, you need that to keep going, it’s a long
build. I spent a couple months on this project (which you could realistically complete in a week if you
worked every day on it).

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Legs
As long as you’re not going for some crazy pose, the legs are pretty easy. I wanted my Titan to
be at full stance/stride. The easiest way to go about it is to aim for the hip socket to be above or
slightly in front of the ankle sockets. Any deflection in one direction of one leg needs to be
mirrored opposite in the other leg (see crude cave drawing #2). This is easier done than said (yes I wrote it
that way). You will build one leg in its entirety and then the second (like the toes-you will be able to
compensate for variance in one when building the other).

Don’t fret; this is a well balance model. Using one foot and the
three leg sections just dry fit different positions until you find something
you like, and then glue one leg together (not the ankle socket yet).
Once I had one leg completed I drilled and pinned the two joints. Now
the complex part, it would be nice to have four hands, but alas I’m not
a mutant. We need to find the position in which to glue the completed
leg to the ankle socket. Note: I swear this sounds more difficult than it
actually is. As long as you’re not going for a difficult pose-you could
just glue the ankle of the first leg and compensate for variation with the
positioning of the second leg.

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In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Legs
Take the two feet, one glued leg and the three remaining leg pieces. Now dry fit everything together
as best as possible (I don’t use blu-tac, but it would be useful during this step). In one hand you’ll have the
completed leg and foot, you can roll the leg in the ankle socket to find the angle in which you want the leg to
finally rest. In the other hand you will have the three leg pieces and the other foot, you want to approximate
the corresponding position needed to get a good balance (the actual position of the unassembled leg isn’t
too important right now, you just want to make sure your not extending beyond the range of positions). Your
goal is to find a leg position which will put the hips halfway between the two feet and remain level.
Unfortunately while assembling this I didn’t think to take photos, so you’ll have to rely on my crude
descriptions and drawings. Once you’ve found a satisfactory stance, glue the ankle. Just drop the
unassembled leg pieces and remember how the other leg is standing. Lift it up, drop some glue in, and put it
back into the same position the best you can and wait for it to dry (alternately you could blu-tac the
unassembled leg and still move the other leg while the glue is drying).

Once the first leg is completed the second is much easier. Repeat the process to find the joint angles
which will work best for balance and trueness (level of the hip joint). Once the second leg is glued (again not
to the ankle yet), dry fit together. Now you want to find a stance which will leave the hips level and halfway
between the two feet (see crude cave drawing #3). Dump some glue into the remaining ankle socket and
hold the position together until it dries a bit.

19
With the two legs completed I
pinned two pins through the bottom of each
foot into the ball socked (you could counter
sink the pins and gap fill the hole if desired).
Then I glued the five ankle pistons to each
leg. I had bore out the holes a bit to get a
good fit on the tiny sockets; some of them
were missing the sockets completely. I
broke one of the ball joints off applying too
much pressure. This was a quick fix with a
tiny pin.

I was missing one of the knee pistons and had to improvise (see also: bitches and moans). I just
grabbed some brass rods, pins and that weird power cylinder from the 40K box set. Did some trimming
and jammed it all together. I hate working with green-stuff. This scratch build worked well enough. Attach
the hip ball joints into the legs. To get the rotation correct just estimate while holding the hips, the ball
sockets which attach the hip pistons should approximately line up. I pinned the ball to the legs by drilling
through the side directly into the other piece. Shoved a rod in the hole, clipped it a little short, filled it with
glue and shoved it back in. If everything has gone well you can now glue both legs into the hips and have a
level balanced platform in which to rain destruction down on your foes! I pinned the hip in place by drilling
through the flat crotch area which was to be covered by the cod-plating.

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In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Working with Magnets


I started this project with the great idea of using neodymium-iron-boron (NdFeB) magnets to attach
key joints. This was a great idea but there were some problems along the way. These magnets are incredibly
strong. I bought them from http://www.rare-earth-magnets.com/ These are the same magnets you want to
use if you’re making a magnetized army tray. Although the fast that glue wont bond to them is a bit of a
problem.
I trimmed down the hip joint
which fits with the torso and glued a
one inch magnet onto both pieces.
These magnets are super smooth.
Since they are not porous, glue
doesn’t like them. To secure them
properly I also had to coat the
magnets with green-stuff, effectively
encasing them into the model. I only
figured this out after an incident with
one of the weapon mounts. This
works perfectly for the hips (which
give me the option to rotate my
Titan).

These magnets are so


strong that this is as close
as you can plance them
without an interaction.

That vise is a Dremel Multi-


Vise and it is awesome! It’s
like 30-40 bucks. I picked
up a second on after seeing
how great they work.

You’ll need a hobby saw, or in this case a


jewlers saw, tocut through enormous vents.

I didn’t have a photo of the magnet encased in green stuff for


the hips, but here you can see it in the body.

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The weapons affix with three points; the shoulder and two conduits. I thought I could make it work,
especially with the rubber conduits which would allow for weapon travel/swing. I’ll show you what I tried
and the flaws. Personally I recommend just hard mounting the weapons (like I ended up doing anyway).

Here was the plan; use the NdFeB magnets at the fix points. The hoses
would virtually connect themselves (I admit for the short time it worked-it was very
cool). I measure the thickness of the carapace and found that on the outermost hose
connection I would need to drill all the way through. I thought this would be okay
since it would only leave a cylindrical extremity which wouldn’t look too out of
place. The fixtures were just big enough to house the corresponding magnet (make
sure you don’t install a magnet backwards, getting them out can be very difficult). I
then attached the rubber hose lengths to be cut later.

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In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

I then bored holes into the arms and carapace to house the large magnets. I
positioned the weapons at a relatively level position and glued the sockets in place. I put two
pins, one on either side, drilling through the side and filling the holes and socket with green-
stuff (sorry, I could only find one photo of this, and it wasn’t good).
If you plan on documenting your builds, you can’t take too many photos, try to
remember to take one every step of the way. I had over 300 photos and still missed some very important
steps. When taking photos of miniatures there are two things to keep in mind; use a tripod and learn your
macro function. Oh yeah, and use plenty of light, and make sure you touch-up your photos in an editing
program. I guess that’s four things to remember.

Notice the glue which remaind behind after the magnet decided to leave.
The magnets seemed to be large and powerful enough to hold the arms on. But if you plan on doing
this, use the largest magnets you can get, then use even larger ones. The problem came from when one
piece got to close to a piece of metal and flew magically into it. These magnets are very brittle; it shattered
to pieces and ripped it out of the carapace (because it didn’t care about being glued). This may have been
solved by securing the magnets with green stuff like I did the hips. After two days of fiddling with it in a vain
attempt to get it to work and after drilling a hole nearly through the carapace-I scrapped the idea. I covered
up the hole with a piece of plastic and decided to hard mount it all. It was a neat idea, but as long as you
have hips which swivel-you’re covered.

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Body
There is no lying; the carapace/body was a bitch of an assembly. Again I believe due to
the molds and the size of these pieces. I don’t know if there is a Titan which has a good fit to the
body, mine certainly didn’t. The first thing to do is fit the servitors into the missing section of the
right and left shoulder carapaces. I had no intention of painting any of the interior detail. If you do (god
knows why), I suggest painting all the interiors before proceeding. I glued every hatch and access closed.
They’re not made like the Land Raider with cool pivot points. If you want stuff to open, you’ll have to figure
out how to pin your own joints. The way the entire upper body fits together virtually prevents this. In the end
I had to use some heavy duty camps, pinning and green-stuff just to get the body together. The additional
headache of making the interior viewable would have tested my patience. I’m pretty good at mods, I don’t
recommend it-but if you decide to do the interior-more power to you.

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In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Body

Next I fixed the vents to the back. I presume the only reason they didn’t jus include them in the
mold was to provide a big vent in which to fill the molds with resin. And these vents are huge! It took a
combination of hobby saw and power sander to get them into a reasonable size. Be careful if you use a
power sander, it will burn through resin like it was nothing (don’t forget the respirator!)

25
Once both wings of the carapace are
completed you need to do a lot of dry fitting and
cutting/filing/sanding. The front torso piece is a
tough fit. Trial and error, shaving down
obstructions, and dry fitting to each wing. This is
where the bulk of the weight will be. I used three
pins on each wing. Two in the middle and one
right through the front.

26
In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Notice that the model won’t align properly unless you force it, pinning this helps secure it beyong the glue bond.

When pinning these areas, you want to pick a spot and drill the most level straight hole possible.
Then using a length of pin which is too short, dab some paint on it, line it up for a dry fit and viola! You have
the mark of where you need to drill the corresponding hole. Once the two pins were in place I drilled a third
hole through the front off the Titan into each wing and pinned it there. With the pins complete I clamped and
glued the hell out of it.

27
Fitting the top vent proved to be a bit difficult since the rest of the model isn’t true (straight). I
wanted to put grating over the open slots which meant I needed to paint the engine before sealing it under
the grating. I cut some mesh and glued it to the underside of the top. I didn’t do anything fancy for the paint;
undercoat, some boltgun metal and some color on the hoses. I sanded the sides of the insert down a bit to
get a good tight dry fit into the cover. Add some glue and clamps.

Once the top was completed I glued it to the carapace. I trimmed the exhaust stacks to fit and glued
them to the back as well.
The weapons were pretty easy. You’ve got the arm, weapon and various details (plasma
Arms chambers & hose fittings). Holding the weapons in place I estimated the length to hose to use
(go a little extra, you can always trim later). Also a couple pins in either side of the socket.

28
In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Head
For the head I wanted to put some plastic in the windows so you could see through them. I wanted
a dark or color tint to hide the fact the interior isn’t painted. You can buy transparency printer paper from
any office supply store. Or you can just take any printed image to Kinkos and have them put it on a
transparency. I figured I would try a color fade from one side to the other. It was just a matter of cutting a
piece, trying to fit, and trimming as needed. In the end it worked well. It didn’t matter as I later had
problems with the undercoats and painted over the windows. But it was a good idea at the time.

I toyed with the notion of putting LED’s in the model. But I really didn’t want to extend this project
more than I already had. There was also the issue of providing a battery compartment, and spot for a
switch. I also felt it would be too difficult to put LED’s in such a small space. But then I found some crazy
guy online who had put LED’s in his Tau, Necron and Space Marines. In their heads for their eyes! So
clearly it’s more than possible.

29
The head consists of top, bottom, neck, hose fittings and interior detail. I glued the neck on and put
the interior bits in then glued the top down. If you don’t glue the top on, it doesn’t seem to fit very well
(there is a gap that could only be closed with glued and clamps). But if you’re so inclined, this may be
another good spot for magnets.

There are a few options with the interior that took me a while to figure out. You can have the
Princep in the Titan or a vacant seat. There are two wall panels, two additional tech priests, each seat has a
headrest and a control stick. The control sticks are to use if you put your Titan crew on foot (took me a
while to figure that one out).

30
In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

They provide enough icons that I had some left over for other miniatures. Likewise I used some
misc bits from the good ol’ bits-box. Threw on a Land Raider name plate, Imperial command
communicator, Space Marine communicator and a pair of shackles from the first generation Rhino. I knew
the Imperial com would be the first to break off, and sure enough right after applying the second to last coat
of mat finish it snapped. I pinned it back in place, now I’m just waiting for the areal to break off.

For some final details I cut up the iconography which


was included. You can really see the detail level achieved in
these pieces. Games Workshop has made leaps of
advancement in the manufacturing of their plastic miniatures
and the level of detail which was once only obtainable through
pewter casting. If you compare the GW and FW Baneblade
tanks you can see that resin is still superior, but I don’t see
why they can create more super-heavy vehicles in plastic. If
Titans were a mere hundred bucks a piece, I would field 5 for
the cost of 1 resin model. How awesome would that be? In
the meantime I’ll be waiting for the plastic Thunderhawk
Gunship.
The flashing on the icons can be pretty bad. You could
just trim away most of it. But some of the smallest icons
looked unnaturally thick by doing this. Instead I just used my
finger and sand paper on a flat surface to wear away the back
until only the icon was left. I also trimmed the boarder from the
Mechanium insignia. I tried to assemble my own Mechanium
badges, but they were so large that they would be more fitting
on a building.
31
The D-rings which hang from the cod-armor needed to be drilled out. I have the compulsion to mod
every miniature, even in the most subtle ways. That way nobody will have a miniature like mine. I decided to
hang the loose chain included in the box from this cod-armor with no banner. Instead I used the Rhino
shackles on the Vulcan Mega Bolter and made the banner to hang from that.

I personally favor using old metal putty tubes to make my banners. They’re stiff yet still malleable,
easy to create a cloth like drapery. Snip the top to create attach points and cut the bottom to indicate wear.
Cut some brass rod and attached the banner and remaining chain length. Add some icons and purity seals.

32
In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Throughout the rest of the model I attached various icons here and there. Most of which was
concentrated on the leg armor greaves and carapace.

33
I was finally far enough that the model was starting to resemble a Titan
Painting
The guys at the Battle Bunker said that they fully assembled the Titan
before painting it. I don’t know how people do that, I have a difficult enough time
painting when there are no other parts in the way. For this reason I left the major
components unassembled for painting. I was looking at five major component sections (legs, carapace,
Mega Bolter, Blastgun and head) and six armor sections (shin greaves, thigh greaves, cod-armor and neck
armor). Just to be sure about the cleanliness of the model (I had been handling it with pizza-greasy hands
and drilling bits here and there not to mention the horrible attempts to gap fill with oil laden green-stuff) I
gave it one final wash before attempting the undercoat. I say attempt because finding a spray which would
adhere to the resin was a major headache. Two indicators presented themselves during the assembly.
First was the vent/engine assembly which I had previously painted. And second was the head which
I had sprayed before I inserted the windows. Both of which were showing signs of extreme wear in just
handling of the parts. I went to scrape the surface of the head and found that the paint pealed off like
sunburned skin. Not good.

34
In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Painting
This first attempt was using the Games Workshop Chaos black primer. At first I used an older
bottle; I tried a new can just to be sure. No help. Next I tried a Krylon Plastic Fusion spray primer. I wasn’t
smart enough to try it on a small piece; instead I figured it had to work! Nope, and I spent the better part of
the next two days trying to clean off the paint. I found a brass brush worked the best with minimal damage
to the surface of the model. This also helped later on in providing a surface with micro abrasions for the
paint to cling to. You really want to use some 300-600 grain sand paper on the flat rough areas before you
prime. I cannot stress this point enough.

Souring the net for tips on priming resin; I found that many places suggested using an Auto primer. I
headed to Autozone and picked up some Dupli-Color vehicle primer. This time I was smart enough to try it
on a small flat piece. Still no good. Finally I tried the basic Krylon grey Primer. A winner! After a couple of
light coats I switched back to the Chaos Black primer (paint will almost always stick to paint), I wanted to
work up from a black base coat. Even down the road I found some areas where the adhesion didn’t take. A
couple coats of paint and plenty of mat finish was my final solution.

35
I like to do my painting quick and dirty. And unless you have a great amount of concentration, it’s
the only method for a model this large. In the beginning I was experimenting and working on details, but by
the end I just wanted it to be finished. I’m not a Golden Daemon painter and I never will be. It can be very
demoralizing to look through a magazine and think you can replicate that level of painting when you’re just
starting out. My oldest issues of White Dwarf don’t have many color photos. But looking at issues in the
early nineties you can see that even the Golden Daemon winners were merely clean painted by today’s
standards. Start with the basics and build your skills from there.

I like the easy stuff, dry


brushing and ink wash. I was
going to give some tips on brush
selection and paint choice, but
the guys at http://
www.40kradio.com/ have been
doing a podcast with a Hobby
University series. Really good
in-depth stuff. They spent an
entire episode talking about
brushes, and each episode after
that has been dedicated to a
different manufacture of paint. I
can’t begin to touch their
knowledge of the matter and I
highly recommend checking
them out.

36
In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Here are my general tips; I use Citadel paints, they’ve come a long way over the years. I started
with the headache of oil paints back when I first painted (early 90’s), acrylic is hands down the way to go.
With a model of this scale I found that I could paint non-stop. By the time I finished one detail the other was
already dry.

When I first open a new pot of paint I always put in 1cc of water and a penny (which I’ve recently
switched to using little glass marbles instead), and I cut the label so that I can keep track of which Blood
Red has already been opened.

The penny (or any other non-reactive object you put in the pot) will aid in mixing when you shake
the paint up. I switched to a glass marbles because I found the pennies eventually lay flat in the pot and lose
their effectiveness. I’ve read of paint mixers made with old orbital sanders. A clever idea, but a little extreme
in my opinion. As long as you’ve got a good rattle in the pot-a minute of shaking will do the job.

37
Brushes are not a permanent tool, they are consumable. The better you take care
of them the less often you will need to replace them. Even with popper care brushes will
deteriorate. I used about 7 different brushes while painting the Titan, about half of
which were new. Two of the new brushes are getting close to dry-brush retirement
based on the amount of use while painting this monstrosity.

Too be fair, the better looking bruch is sable which is of higher quality than the other one.

Keep the metallic paints apart from non-metallic paints. Both use the same
substrate (water), but where as the regular paint merely contains pigment, the metallic
paint actually has metal particles in it. Change your water when going from one to
another, some people may go so far as to use different brushes. I just thoroughly clean
the brushes when going from metallic to non-metallic.

On the left is a close-up of water after using a metallic paint, you can see the particles floating. On the right
is a paper towel-which also shows the specs of metal. And this is me droaning on becuse I need to fill two
pages.

38
In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Laying the color


Resin has a very rough texture. This works great for armor and metal. My first
step was to do a heavy dry brush with boltgun metal on most of the legs and any other
area I felt would look good as bare metal. I threw in some other metals for the different
pistons and details. I tried using some blue ink to give the metal a titanium look. I don’t
know how I feel about this, I guess it worked. I wanted my Titan to look new (as new
as a war machine can look). It was going to be a Titan that has only seen a few
thousands years of battles (verse the 10K worth of most Titans). The best part of this
was when a friend came over and saw the project; he asked why I didn’t paint it more
fresh looking. I guess looking at 10,000 years of war has warped my perception of what
a new Titan should look like.
To finalize the legs I used
some black ink and some red
ink for rust effects. The
hobby painting section at the
GW website has a neat little
page that gives you quick
tips on painting metal by
selecting the desired result.

Watch out for signs of


brush breakdown. And
when a bruch finally dies,
make it a good ol
drybrush.

I considered
putting some thought
into a pallet, deciding
which part should be a
different color. But in
the end I just picked a
base color and went
from there. I wanted
to create some sort of connection with the Blood Angles; I went with Scab Red for the
main color. I figured this would make up most of the models armor coverings. I started
with all the leg armor pieces. The black undercoat kept the red very dark. I used 2-4
coats to achieve good coverage.

39
I find that painting is all about touch-ups. When I started painting my favored techniques was
dipping the miniature in paint and calling it good. I hated touching-up. With oil based paints you have to wait
hours before applying the next color, never mind fixing mistakes. Getting used to touchups is the best advice
I can think of. I would do a coat of scab red and then touch up other areas with chaos black, back and
forth until I was happy. I added some edge armor wear with the extremely simple technique of adding a
streak of chaos black filled slightly in with boltgun metal. I finished the lower greaves with some ink to add
grime near the feet. Once all the armor was completed I glued it to the legs.

You can see where the primer still didn’t fully take & my laziness as a painter comes out in some areas which I thought wouldn’t be visible.

A simple quick layering for the banner, ink wash applied after the script. I doubt EXIM means anything, I guess it would be a number in Latin.

40
In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...
Painting the armor took a very long time. There is just no way about it. I needed 2-4 coats to get
the desired coverage over the black and there is a lot of surface area here. I estimate that it’s comparable to
the Land Raider. Again I didn’t put much thought into what part would be what color. There were some
things that I changed my mind on along the way. Just roll with it.

Once I had the legs complete I decided that another nice


nod to the Blood Angles would be to give the Titan a blue helmet
like their heavy support troops. I didn’t plan on where paint
would begin and end, I would just paint until I felt it looked right.
I would occasionally check out the photos of other completed
Titans, but I really feel you should just roll with it. I used the Blue
foundation paint (which did do the job of coverage in one coat).
Dry brushed some Ultramarine blue and highlighted a bit with
enchanted blue. I then added some more of the boltgun metal on
black for wear/scars. I picked out some details on the nose.
Added some stuff to the left side of the head. It’s rather difficult
to paint scribbles that resemble writing-I pretend that I’m outside
in the cold. I also had to add a pin to the neck and drill a hole in
the body at this point.

41
In painting the top I realized that there was no way around it, I needed to do more gap filling. The
thing about green-stuff is that is sucks. I don’t know how the pros do it. I can sculpt pretty well with some
Super-Sculpy, and filling gaps is pretty easy with regular model putty (I prefer the Model Master red putty
you see in some of the photos). I may eventually try the grey-stuff, but the green stuff seems to only work
for organic shapes and models. Either way the gaps between the wings of the carapace and the center vent
assembly were too much to bear. So I filled them in and gave it a couple coats of paint, not great but better
than a giant gap. The engine stacks in the back had a horrible ¼” gap that had to be dealt with as well.

42
In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...
Along the way I decided to add some warning lines on certain access hatches. I tried it free hand at
first, but decided to make it look cleaner by masking instead.

With the body I needed to find a way to hold it so I wasn’t constantly rubbing areas while I rotated
it to paint another side. The magnetic hips came in handy a couple times for this. Most of the time it was
sitting on foam and I used lint free wipes to rest my hand on the model. Eventually the two main colors
started coming together. Once the bulk of that work was completed I could start picking out the details. Dry
brushed the black trim with some boltgun metal, painted some pipes and rivets.

The Aquila is a good example of me not having any idea of what I wanted to do. It started black,
then I tried silver, but that was too bright. I added some other metallic paints and eventually washed with ink
and found myself surprisingly pleased with the overall effect.

I attached the head, neck armor and hoses. I painted the hoses before installing them. Just used a
base color, add a thin highlight down the length of the color, and then washed it all with black ink. I used
about 40% more length than I needed. Once one side was glued I just twisted the rubber until the slack was
taken up by the curl.

43
The Plasma Blastgun followed suit of the Mega Bolter. The only real dilemma was weather to use
the blue style plasma, or the green style plasma. I didn’t want the weapon to be competing with the head so
I went with the green. Dark green, light green, a little yellow and that’s it.

44
In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...
When gluing the weapons to the carapace wings I was worried about the strength of the joint. I
would have pinned it if it wasn’t for the magnets already imbedded into the arms. I started with the hose
fittings, doing each one in turn and letting it dry. Most of these still had the magnets which made it a little
difficult to position them exactly as I wanted. With the Mega Bolter I barely had enough hose length to get it
all to work. If you left extra like I said-you could now trim it to the designated length. Or do like I did with
the head and create a couple loops. I had plenty of slack on the Blastgun and just let it hang where it would.
To fix the main hard point I first sanded down the paint to get back to bare resin (which would facilitate the
best bonding surface). I repeated this on the weapon as well. I put as much glue in the joint and around the
edges as I could without it squishing out or potentially dripping down. I then had to make some sort of jig to
let the thing dry for a few hours. Normally I don’t wait all that long before fiddling with a glued piece. But
since this was going to be the weakest link in the model, and I used as much glue as I could (which extends
the curing time), I let it sit for a few hours. Sometimes a jig is complicated and requires ingenuity, other times
its stupid simple.

This is a good reason to write down on paper what you intent to put on the model. I forgot what I
originally intended, but it was a real Latin word, then I misspelled it on the third letter and decided to just
throw in some random Latin sounding letters.

Once I had a couple pieces complete I took them outside for the finish spray. Even though I wasn’t
able to use the magnetic mounts for the arms, they came in handy when I want to have a gun hanging from
my light fixture, or needed to spray the weapon.
Titan base, I didn’t do one. The only reasons to base your Titan is for use in a diorama or if you want a
crazy pose. I did think about making the Titan drop pod… Then I came to my senses. 45
Epilog
One of the intended purposes of this guide was to try and give you the sense of
what it’s like to build one of these machines of war. Hopefully when the time comes for you
to build yours-you may already have some ideas of what you want to do differently.
Models become easier with repetition. I’ve already got some ideas on what I want to do with my Mars
Pattern Titan and the Reaver Titan. The fruition of all these Titans will end with a scratch build for the
Warlord Titan (because really, what can you do with an Imperator Titan?)

I was so excited to get to


building this that I didn’t spend as
much time as I should have cleaning
the parts. I tend to blame that on
the Forge World molds though. You
really should strive for the best dry
fit possible. I may try to magnetize
the weapons on the other Titans.
Just remember to go powerful and
large. As long as you secure the
magnets beneath something (as in
the green-stuff encasement),
everything should be fine.

I highly suggest purchasing one of these if you get a chance to. It may not really be worth the cost,
but it is very fun and quite a centerpiece for an army. Will Hayes and his team did an incredible job with the
Titan. I feel the need to really laud them for my complaints in the next section will make me sound mean and
bitter (which I am). I don’t regret buying this, and I will continue to patronize Games Workshop and Forge
World in the future. So should you! Remember, theoretically the more people that you get into this hobby,
the more the price should go down (I doubt that GW would let that happen though).

46
In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Epilog
Thank you for deciding to consume something I created. This is my second modeling guide. I hope
that you found this guide somewhat useful. If not, then I hope you found it a little entertaining. If not, then I
hope you at least liked the photos. If not, well, if not then you’re really obsessive for reading it to the end
with no reward and you can go screw yourself! Cheers! -jabbakahut@hotmail.com

47
The Titan is a beautifully designed model. The details are stunning. The
One last thing…. mechanics of how it comes together is superb. But I can’t help but feel a bit
cheated by Forge World. It shouldn’t surprise me, Games Workshop has deteriorated in many ways over
the years. I love their models, I love their fluff (go pick up the Horus Heresy series if you get a chance-you
will not be disappointed). The advancement Games Workshop has made in plastic miniatures is incredible.
I’ve gotten use to the expensive cost of buying the latest GW model. I’ve diligently upgraded over the years
to keep current (ironic since I don’t even play the game…yet). Forge world is a division of Games
Workshop. And it’s been touted as the premium line of the really cool stuff.

My complaint can be boiled down to one important factor; customer service. I feel rather cheated in
this department. Remember, more than $500 spent on 1 model. It has been packaged as cheaply as
possible; even the cardboard box it comes in is cheep. It’s like the boxes of crap you see in the dolor store.
Oh yeah, no instruction manual? It’s odd to pay so much for a highly detailed resin model, that also has such
egregious mold shifts, bubbles in the resin, mold release that doesn’t seem to come off (maybe that’s not
their fault though), and as well designed as it seems, parts of it hardly fit together. Not to mention the
headache of communicating with them. As you saw in the photos-my Titan was toeless for a while, in
addition to missing the knee pistons.

To be fair, my Titan came with all eight toes, it’s just that one of them belonged to a Mars Pattern
Titan. The following is the correspondence I went through. The best part is of course in the end…

1/4/08 Purchased Wold Class Titan from Wayne at the Glen Burnie Battle Bunker.
410-590-8675
6711 Baymeadow Drive
Glen Burnie, Maryland 21060

1/7/08 I realized my toe was wrong and contacted the Battle Bunker.

1/11/08 I packaged up my incorrect Titan Toe and include a description of my missing knee piston and sent
it off to the Battle Bunker. I proceeded to call back every week for the next four weeks for updates.

2/12/08 Wayne at the Battle Bunker suggests that I contact Forge World directly because although Forge
World is part of Games Workshop, he has an exceptionally difficult time getting a hold of them himself.

48
In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Bitches & Complaints


Through the Games Workshop site at http://us.games-workshop.com/games/40k/apocalypse/painting/
forgeworld/default.htm ...

If for some reason you’re missing a piece, either contact Forge World through their web
site www.forgeworld.co.uk so that they can send you a replacement piece or go back to
the store where you bought it and see if they will contact Forge World for you.

So you head to Forge World website, and after searching for a while you find this;

Q4. Can I contact you with questions regarding rules for Forge World models?

A4.If you have any rules suggestions or feedback about Imperial Armour rules then
please e-mail them to us at

ImperialArmour@games-workshop.co.uk

Please Note: This e-mail address is not for sales, events enquires or customer service
problems. For them please use the Forge World e-mail address, you will get a far faster
response. This address is for game related feedback and will be read by the Imperial
Armour Editor, not the Forge World sales guys.

Also, due to format problems we cannot send out rules via e-mail, so please don’t ask
for the rules for specific vehicles. We get lots of requests and we have to turn them all
down, sorry.

I love that they tell you not to use this address for problems, but then they don’t give you an address to use.
Priceless!

49
But more looking and finally I found something that might work!

I HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT MY ORDER.

If you have a question about your mail order please either telephone our mail order line
or send us an email to fworderenquiries@games-workshop.co.uk. Please note it may
not be possible for us to answer emails straight away. When making a query about an
order please let us have as much information as possible, (e.g. name of person who
placed the order, address of person who placed the order, name of person to whom we
were sending the order, address of person to whom we were sending the order, when the
order was placed, how the order was placed etc.)
Forge World products can be purchased through a number of different ways:

Forge World Products can be purchased direct from any of the events that we attend,
and also from the following stores. If you want a specific model its best to phone the
store before travelling to ensure the item is in stock.

Canada’s HQ store now stock Forge World product, 2679 Bristol Circle, Unit 2&3,
Oakville, Ontario, L6H 6Z8, Canada (tel: 905 829 3295)

Warhammer World, Games Workshop HQ, Lenton, Nottingham, England, NG7 2WS
(tel: 0115 916 8410)

Games Workshop Factory Shop, Glen Burnie, MD, USA (tel: 410 590 8675)

Notice how that last place is where I purchased my Titan? But at least there is an email address in that first
sentence!

——Original Message——-
From: Atom Kahut
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 4:06 PM
To: ‘fworderenquiries@games-workshop.co.uk’
Subject: Recent Titan purchase

I recently purchased the LUCIUS PATTERN WARHOUND TITAN (WOLF CLASS) from the Games Workshop
Battle Bunker; Games Workshop Factory Shop, Glen Burnie, MD, USA. To my dismay one piece was absent
and one was incorrect. I contacted the store which I purchased the model and sent them in the mail the
incorrect piece and a photo of the missing piece. A month passed. To no avail, they were not able to replace
the piece or get me the missing piece. They indicated that they will be sending the piece back to me soon.

Although I love the model, my experience has not proven to be a good one. I’m attempting to seek what other
option are available. If needed, I can provide a copy of the receipt and photos of the missing/incorrect pieces.

r/Atom

50
In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

A week goes by without me hearing anything, but luck has it that I had found another email address!

——Original Message——
From: Atom Kahut
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 6:24 AM
To: ‘forgeworld@games-workshop.co.uk’
Subject: FW: Recent Titan purchase

I emailed the address below a week ago, I’ve yet to hear any response. So I’m trying a different one.

I’ve been trying to get something straightened out with your brethren at Forge World. Please tell me you can
help. This has been going on since the beginning of January, below are the emails I’ve sent to the two
different F.W. addresses one and two weeks ago.

I waited another week without any reply. I was also call the Battle Bunker every week to get any updates.
Finally I emailed someone at Games Workshop and got a reply!

From: Atom Kahut [mailto:atomkahut@gmail.com]


Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 2:32 AM
To: US Customer Service
Subject: FW: Recent Titan purchase

I’ve been trying to get something straightened out with your brethren at Forge World. Please tell me you can
help. This has been going on since the beginning of January, below are the emails I’ve sent to the two
different F.W. addresses one and two weeks ago.

3/1/08 called Wayne, he said the original toe I sent would be leaving Monday to be returned to me.

——Original Message——
From: John Spencer [mailto:John.Spencer@Games-Workshop.com] On Behalf Of US Customer
Service
Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 3:00 PM
To: Atom Kahut
Subject: RE: Recent Titan purchase

Hello,
We have talked with the Glen Burnie bunker and they are aware of your
problem and just waiting on replacement parts to arrive from Forge World.

Thanks!

John Spencer
Customer Service Specialist

51
Oddly enough I got another email only 4 minutes later…

From: Tom Gruhala [mailto:tom.gruhala@Games-Workshop.com]


Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 3:04 PM
To: atomkahut@gmail.com
Cc: US Customer Service
Subject: Missing Titan Pieces

Mr Kahut,

My Name is Tom Gruhala and I am the Manager of the Games Workshop Battle Bunker
in Glen Burnie.

I have been made aware through customer service of your issue with the Missing
“Toe” and the “Twin Leg Strut” for the Lucius Pattern Titan you purchased.
After a conversation with a member of my staff you spoke with less than a two
weeks ago in ref with this issue I am writning to inform you that the toe is
being sent out VIA UPS on Tuesday March 4th, 2008. However after searching
through multiple kits and sources we here at the Bunker do not currently have a
spare or replacement strut to send you. This is because we like you rely on
Forgeworld proper to send us any additional pieces to correct errors. We are
currently awaiting replacement parts for other kits in addition to yours and
rest assure as soon as the piece arrives we will post it out to you ASAP.

Thank you for your patience

Tom Gruhala
Bunker Manager

52
In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Well, March 6th I finally got my


missing Titan toe… But it’s the wrong toe!
I don’t know how you screw that up. I
included a photo and even stated that the
two wasn’t the middle one. I didn’t care
at this point, my build had been waiting for
primer for a while now. So yes my Titan
has two big toes on his right foot. Nobody
will ever notice. And here I sit writing this
near the end of April and I haven’t even
heard about the pistons I was missing (not
that it matters at this point), although I did
get an email from Forge World
recently…. Gee, thanks guys (two months
later).

——Original Message——
From: Stuart McQuarrie [mailto:stuart.mcquarrie@games-workshop.co.uk] On Behalf Of Forge World
(UK)
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 6:48 AM
To: Atom Kahut
Subject: RE: Recent Titan purchase

[DO NOT REPLY – REPLIES TO THIS E-MAIL ADDRESS WILL NOT BE


ANSWERED]

Dear customer,

Thank you for contacting Forge World – we sincerely apologise for the delay in responding to
your e-mail.

Due to current high demand, we have been unable to respond to e-mails for some time and
have encouraged customers, wherever possible, to contact us by telephone. Contacting us by
telephone ensures that your query is resolved as quickly as possible, allowing us to get all the
information we need in order to help you - something that is not always possible with a single e-mail.

We hope that your query has been resolved by other means since you initially sent your e-
mail to us, but if not, please call our sales and customer service team on +44 (0) 115 916 8177. We
are open between 9am – 6pm, Monday – Friday, UK time, and will be happy to deal with any queries
you may have.

We thank you for your custom and your patience.

Kind regards,

Forge World
53
References

Games Workshop
http://us.games-workshop.com/
Micromark hobby tools
http://www.micromark.com/ Forge World
www.forgeworld.co.uk
Blue Table Painting
http://www.bluetablepainting.com/ Mini Wargaming
http://www.miniwargaming.com/
Working with resin.
http://www.wikihow.com/Prep-and-Paint-Cast-Resin-Models
http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/resinmodels.htm
http://us.games-workshop.com/games/40k/apocalypse/painting/forgeworld/default.htm

Original Jabba’s Guide to Building Stuff (vol. 1)


http://www.scribd.com/doc/2058395/JGTBS

My YouTube Channel
http://www.youtube.com/user/Jabbakahut
54

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