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For Marie, for every day

Text copyright © 2009 by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall Photography copyright © 2009 by Simon Wheeler Additional photography copyright © 2009 by Marie Derôme (pages 25, 330–31, 354) Illustrations copyright © 2009 by Mariko Jesse

All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York. www.crownpublishing.com www.tenspeed.com

Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Random House, Inc.

Originally published in slightly different form in Great Britain by Bloomsbury Publishing Plc, London, in 2009

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Fearnley-Whittingstall, Hugh. River Cottage every day / Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall ; photography by Simon Wheeler. p. cm. Includes index. Summary: “A collection of more than 180 appealing everyday recipes from the bestselling author of the River Cottage series”—Provided by publisher. 1. Cooking (Natural foods) 2. Cooking, English. 3. River Cottage (Television program) I. Title. TX741.F426 2011

641.5’636—dc22

ISBN 978-1-60774-098-8

Printed in China

2010046949

Project editor: Janet Illsley Copy editor: Jane Middleton Cover design: Chloe Rawlins Interior design: Lawrence Morton Photography: Simon Wheeler Illustrations: Mariko Jesse (www.marikojesse.com)

The text of this book is set in Avant Garde Gothic and Serifa

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First U. S. Edition

Making breakfast

Baked breakfast cheesecake

I know the idea of cheesecake for breakfast sounds odd, but this simple recipe is a great way to start the day, especially if you serve it with some fresh berries or a fruit compote. It is incredibly easy to throw together since there’s no crust, and you can get it on the table in little more than half an hour.

Besides making a luxurious weekend breakfast or brunch, it is also a delicious dessert. Until recently, I thickened the cheese mixture with a little semolina or flour, but I tried using oatmeal instead and the result was so successful that I now usually do it this way.

If using salted goat cheese, don’t add salt to the recipe.

Serves 10

21 ounces ricotta cheese or cream cheese, or soft, very mild goat cheese (preferably unsalted)

5

tablespoons unsalted

butter, melted and

cooled slightly

3

tablespoons quick

oats, fine semolina, or whole-wheat pastry flour

A good pinch of sea salt 1 / 2 cup superfine sugar

2

eggs, lightly beaten

Finely grated zest of

2

small oranges, plus

1

tablespoon juice

3

tablespoons raisins (optional)

To serve:

Fresh fruit or fruit compote (see pages

339–44)

Yogurt or sour cream (optional)

Preheat the oven to 325º f. generously butter a 9-inch springform cake pan.

beat the cheese with a wooden spoon until smooth, then add the melted butter, oatmeal, semolina, or flour, salt, sugar, eggs, and

orange zest and juice, and mix well (feel free to whiz the ingredients in a food processor). f old in the raisins, if using.

spoon the mixture into the prepared pan and bake for about 25 minutes, until just set, with a slight wobble in the center.

serve hot, warm, or at room temperature with some fresh fruit or

fruit compote, and, if you like, yogurt or sour cream.

44

thrifty MEA t

Slow-roast shoulder of lamb with merguez spices

Lamb shoulder is an underrated cut. Treated to a very long, slow roast with pungent spices, it offers meltingly soft, flavorful meat that you can pull off the bone easily – as well as a pool of rich juices. This recipe works best with larger, more mature lambs. You can also rub the spice paste on the inside of a boned lamb shoulder, then roll and tie it. Give it an initial 30 minutes at a high temperature (as below), then roast at 325°F for 2 1 / 2 hours.

thrifty MEA t Slow-roast shoulder of lamb with merguez spices Lamb shoulder is an underrated cut.

Serves 6 to 10, depending on the size of the roast

For the spice paste:

  • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds

  • 1 teaspoon coriander seeds

  • 1 teaspoon fennel seeds

1 /2 cinnamon stick, broken up

  • 1 teaspoon black

peppercorns

A pinch of cayenne pepper or chile powder

  • 2 teaspoons sweet

smoked paprika

  • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

Leaves from 2 large rosemary sprigs, finely chopped

  • 2 teaspoons sea salt

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil

  • 1 shoulder of mature

lamb, on the bone

Preheat the oven to 425° f.

if you have time, toast the cumin, coriander, fennel seeds, cinnamon, and peppercorns in a dry frying pan over medium heat for a minute

or so, until fragrant (this boosts the flavor but isn’t essential). Crush to a coarse powder using a mortar and pestle, then combine with the

cayenne or chile powder, paprika, garlic, rosemary, salt, and olive oil.

Lightly score the skin of the meat with a sharp knife, making shallow

slashes about 1 /8 inch deep and 3 /4 inch apart. r u b half the spice paste all over the lamb shoulder, underneath as well as on top, and especially into the cuts. Put into a large roasting pan and place in

the oven. r o ast for 30 minutes.

remove from the oven and rub the remaining spice paste over the meat using the back of a wooden spoon. Pour a glass of water into the pan (not over the meat), cover with foil, and return to the oven. reduce the heat to 250° f and cook for 6 hours, or until the meat is

very tender and falling off the bone. you can add another glass of

water halfway through, to keep the pan juices from scorching.

transfer the lamb to a warm serving plate. Skim the excess fat off the juices in the pan. tear the meat into thick shreds and serve with the juices spooned over. Simple accompaniments are all you need: boiled new potatoes (in summer) or some roasted squash (in winter) and a dish of shredded cabbage, greens, or kale would be ideal.

242

vegetables galore

312

Six roasted vegetables

Preheat the oven to 375°F. slice the squash into quarters and seed it, scooping out the
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
slice the squash into quarters and seed it, scooping out the seeds
with a spoon. I leave the skin on most squashes when I’m roasting
them, but you can peel it off if you prefer. Cut the squash into
wedges or chunks and put them in a small roasting pan. a dd the
garlic and rosemary, the chopped chile, and lots of salt and pepper.
Drizzle with 2 to 3 tablespoons of oil and toss together. r oast in
the oven for 40 to 55 minutes, stirring halfway through, until the
squash is completely soft and starting to caramelize.
Meanwhile, if using nuts, toast them in a dry frying pan over
medium heat for a few minutes, until golden brown, then scatter
over the roasted squash. a dd a squeeze of lemon juice and
another good drizzle of oil, then serve.

Roasted vegetables – root vegetables and winter squashes in particular – are rarely less than delicious. The roasting process intensifies flavor, brings out sweetness, and adds a rich, caramelized exterior. It’s forgiving to the cook (you can be relaxed about timings, and serve your vegetables hot, warm, or cold) and versatile too. The following recipes make fantastic accompaniments but can also be the main focus of a meal, with just a little something else on the side. Leftover roasted roots can be tossed into salads or puréed in soups, or just nibbled cold as an extra something in your lunch box. So you can see why this is a method I return to time and again.

Roast squash with chile, garlic, and rosemary

Butternut squash is delicious roasted in this way, but do try some alternative squashes and pumpkins if you get the chance. Sugar pie pumpkins are outstanding, as are acorn squash.

This makes an excellent side dish for sausages, chops, roast chicken, or robust fish. Since it is creamy and starchy, I tend to serve roast squash instead of, rather than as well as, any kind of spuds. On the other hand, dished up with steamed rice and some sautéed greens or a green salad, this makes a lovely vegetarian main course.

Serves 4

1

large butternut

6

1

4

to 5 tablespoons

canola or olive oil

fairly hot red chile, seeded and finely chopped

squash, about 2 pounds, or the equivalent weight of acorn or other squash or pumpkin

to 8 fat garlic cloves, skin on, lightly squashed

A few sprigs of rosemary

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 / 3 cup pine nuts or walnuts (optional)

Juice of 1 /2 lemon