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Protocol. If you have no knowledge of electronics and are wanting to build your own pulser, I recommend thoroughly going over Chris Gupta's Pulser page first and then coming back here to fill in the blanks. Here I offer photographs and additional information that may be of assistance to anyone wanting to build their own Bob Beck Electromagnetic Pulser. Bob Beck Protocol Information: If you would like to learn more about Robert Beck and the Beck Protocol, you can view several Google Videos by clicking on the following Link - Beck Video . You can also watch the full Video below (1 hour 57 min). Beyond these videos, there is a wealth of information on the internet about the Bob Beck Protocol. In a nutshell however it implies a four process system involving blood electrification, electromagnetic pulse, colloidal silver and ozonated water. If you are experiencing cancer, hiv, lupus, candida or one or more of a host of other ailments, it would be worth your time to research this health process. Also, you can download the entire Bob Beck Lecture, "Take Back Your Power" (1MB PDF). I have searched hi and low for this and finally found the complete document. Suppressed Medical Discovery: Dr. Robert C. Beck ( Cancer,AIDS, anything viral) - 1:56:59 - Aug 13, 2006 Commercially Manufactured Bob Beck Devices: If you are looking for a quality blood electrifier at a fantastic price of only $70, click on the following link (http://photoman.bizland.com/godzilla/details.htm). It uses four 9V batteries. Other commercial models may use only a single 9V battery but can cost up to $200. If you don't want to, or can't build your own blood electrifier, this device should suffice nicely. I will soon have a web page outlining instructions with photos, to assist those who want to make their own blood electrifier. In the meantime, you can access the following web site for a schematic and parts list of Bob Beck's original, improved Blood Electrifier and Colloidal Silver Maker Sota Instruments manufactures and sells more advanced devices ranging from EM Pulsers to Ozonating devices and more. Also see Tools For Healing.
My EM Pulser is based on Chris Gupta's circuit design. Chris Gupta's Pulser web site can be accessed by clicking on this link. The information I provide on this web page is an account of what I have learned in the process of studying Beck devices and building my own units for my own experimentation purposes. I assume no responsibility for anything one might do with the information provided on this web page. Please view any explanations as hypothetical and not as instructions to be followed. Electric Shock Hazard! This device uses 110V AC current and a bank of capacitors that stores a significant charge. If this device is not built in a safe manor, there can be a risk of lethal electric shock. It would advisable for individuals that are unfamiliar with electronics, to have someone like a TV repairman build this device for them. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE be absolutely present, mindful and cautious when working around exposed capacitors and 110VAC current. As you will read below, even a shock by a single capacitor from a disposable camera, can be extremely unpleasant. A professor at Penn Engineering jokingly recommended that I keep one hand in my pocket. In other words, keeping one hand in my pocket would prevent an electric shock from going across my heart! Looking on the bright side however, Chris Gupta told me that many people have successfully built and are using this device based on his schematic. I'm just asking those that are intending to build this machine, to use safe practices when working around exposed capacitors and hot electrical wires. Please post any successes, failures, comments or questions on Chris Gupta's Pulser web page. Please take a close look at the photos below before reading on. As I don't provide a lead-in, reviewing the images will help you to understand what I'm talking about. All measurements are in Inches. Plastic Box Outside Dimensions: approximately 2-3/8 X 4-1/4 X 7-3/8
Using 1/2 inch #4 beveled machine screws I fastened a 1/8 inch plexiglas sub-floor to the bottom of the box in order to allow for the attachment of the Terminal Contact Bars and the home-made bracket for the SCR. The sub-floor also provides an insulated suface for the circuit components to be mounted to. Screws were counter sunk into the outside-bottom of the plastic box and fastened on the inside with a lock washers and nuts. After all components were soldered and attached to the sub-floor, the sub-floor was then fastened to the ends of the four screws coming up from the bottom of the box and again fastened with nuts and lock washers. Looking at Chris Gupta's EM Pulser circuit, keep in mind that the On/Off switch is on the positive side of the circuit. The negative side goes to the bulbs, 150V / 130uF capacitor and ultimately to the Anode of the SCR. In electrical circuits, generally it is always the hot lead (+) that is switched. I'm not really sure if input polarity makes a difference in this circuit, but that is how I did it. Note: I have since modified my pulser by adding three contact bars to strengthen, simplify and clean-up the solder points for the 150V / 130uF capacitor, two diodes and the resistor. I also added two more photo-flash capacitors to the five shown in the diagram. According to Chris Gupta's calculations the array of 7 capacitors now store about 41 joules (Watt/Seconds) of energy and will produce a magnetic pulse of around ~6,000 gauss from the surface of the coil. I used 14 gage solid copper wire to and from the photo flash capacitor buss to add strength and stability to the circuit components. Implementing a Strain Relief : Strain reliefs are essential for electrical safety. They prevent cables from being ripped out of a circuit in the event an electrical device gets dropped or e.g., should someone trip over an electrical chord. I did not have a strain relief when I assembled my pulser. I plan on adding two strain reliefs, one for each chord coming out of my device. Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI): A GFCI is designed to instantly interrupt the flow of electricity in the event of a short circuit, before it can become a danger. A short circuit is basically when
electricity finds an alternate path to ground, instead of going through the intended circuit. A short circuit can happen within an electrical device, or it can happen through a person who has unknowingly provided a shorter electrical path to ground. I recommend using a GFCI in conjunction with this device. Probably the easiest way to do this is to purchase an extension chord or a power strip that has a GFCI as part of the unit. Modern building codes in the United States require all kitchens, bathrooms and out-door circuits to have GFCI circuit breakers or receptacles. SCR: The SCR (Silicon Controlled Rectifier) and has three contacts. In my device the SCR is mounted onto a home-made bracket to again add more stability to the circuit components. The bracket for the SCR and all other components of this device are mounted to an insulative plexiglas sub-floor using 1/2 inch #4 standard machine screws . scr contacts 1.) Anode: The entire casing of the SCR, including the treaded portion and the threaded nut (when attached), is the Anode and is HOT when the unit is fired up. The SCR I used had an insulator to insulate the Anode from a mounting bracket. Included with the threaded nut and insulator, was also a metal ring which serves as the Anode solder point. See diagram and photo below. 2.) Gate: In Chris Gupta's circuit, the Gate of the SCR connects to one side of the Push-To-Make switch. On the SCR that I used, the Gate was the shorter of the two solder points coming up from the top of the unit. 3.) Cathode: Again, on the SCR that I used, the Cathode was the longer and thicker of the two solder points coming up from the top of the unit. It connects to one lead of the coil. Note: The other lead from the coil is soldered to the negative buss of the photo flash capacitor array. See schematic and Photos. I used a 3/4 inch EMT (electrical conduit) mounting bracket to fabricate a U shaped bracket to mount the SCR to. First I pounded
the bracket flat, and then bent and cut it to the desired shape. The bracket was mounted to the sub-floor using one 3/8 inch #4 phillips machine screw, lock washer and nut. I had to shorten the length of the machine screw in order maximize the distance between the end of the screw and the bottom of the SCR. The bracket had to be short enough to provide enough clearance for the box cover, but long enough to provide sufficient clear space for the bottom end of the SCR. See photo below. The SCR attaches to the bracket between the two insulators. When the assembly is tightened, the insulator provides effective insulation for a metal bracket. I should perhaps mention that I drilled a hole into the top surface of the bracket that was large enough for the protrusion of the upper insulator to fit through. The lower insulating ring comes up underneath the bracket and is held in place by the Anode solder point ring and finally the nut. See SCR diagram above. I wired the ground wire to the housing of the Push-to Make switch as this is the only metal component I touch during the operation of the Pulser. I decided to use a plastic box over a metal one, because there is so much current flying around and I wanted reduce the chance of any short circuits. I also made sure that all of the components were all sufficiently spaced apart from each other. Since there is a fair amount of current flying around this machine, Chris Gupta recommended not to use a printed circuit board to build this device. That is also why I opted to implement the use of an insulated plexiglas sub-floor to mount all of the components to. Bulbs and Lamp Holders : I used candelabra lamp holders as they take up less space and are less bulky. Holes of the appropriate size were drilled into the top of the box about 1 inch in from the edges. The main thing here, is to make sure that the bulbs are not touching when screwed into the sockets. My pulser makes use of two spherical shaped 60W bulbs. The spherical bulbs were more aesthetically pleasing to me than traditional candelabra bulbs. Should a bulb burn out, replace it before continued use. In Chris Gupta's design the bulbs act as current limiters and protect the SCR from short-circuiting. Note: Keep in mind that the bulbs do get hot if you are using the pulser for several minutes at a time.
Inductor Coil: If you want to go the easy way like me, and don't want to go through the hassle of building your own coil, one can purchased from Madisound Speaker Components, Inc. This link will take you to the correct page on their web site. You are wanting the Sidewinder 2.5 mH 16AWG Air Core Inductor Coil. It costs only $14.30. Note: The AMS coil that is listed in numerous Beck texts as an alternative to building your own, is no longer manufactured. Photo Flash Capacitors: The ability of a capacitor to store a charge is measured in 'Farads'. Most capacitors are labeled in Micro Farads (uF). The photo-flash capacitors you see in the tray below, all came from one run to a local drug store that does photo processing. They are all from an assortment of disposable flash cameras and range from 80uF - 160uF. On this occasion I hit the jackpot as the camera recycle bin was full. I could have selected twice as many. Different camera manufactures and even cameras from the same company will often have caps of different ratings, ranging anywhere from 330V 80uF - 330V 160uF, and on occasion even higher. Larger capacitors with higher voltage and uF ratings can store more energy. When hooked up in parallel the uF ratings are cumulative. Two capacitors rated at 330V 80uF hooked up in parallel, will have a combined rating of 330V 160uF. When hooked up in series, it is the voltage rating that increases. The same two capacitors hooked up in series would have a combined rating of 660V 80uF. Note how the capacitance is NOT additive when hooking capacitors up in series. For more information on hooking capacitors up in series click on this link. Chris Gupta offers the following general rule of thumb about capacitors hooked together in a parallel configuration: The voltage flowing through a set of capacitors in parallel, should not exceed the voltage of the lowest rated capacitor. For example if you connect a 330V 80uF capacitor and a 150V 80uF capacitor together in parallel, the combined voltage rating of the two will be 150V. Capacitor Ratings From Various Cameras I Have Opened All 330V Kodak Power Flash: 120uF & 160uF (two slightly different models) Kodak Zoom: 100uF & 120uF Kodak FunSaver: 120uF
Polaroid Fun Shooter: 80uF Fuji QuickSnap Flash: Unknown, but guess 100uF Fuji QuickSnap Flash 1000: Unknown, but guess 160uF Studio 35: 80uF Observing Chris Gupta's circuit design, you see that his schematic calls for one 150V 130uF capacitor just past the two bulbs. All of the caps I have removed from disposable cameras are all rated at 330V. According to Chris Gupta, it is OK to use a 330V capacitor in this location. Hypothetically, if one were using 330V 80uF caps to build a pulser, one might consider using two 80uF caps hooked together in parallel to bring the combined uF rating up to 160uF. Likewise for the capacitor array; if all one had was 80uF caps to build a pulser with, one might want to add capacitors to the array in order to reach the 650 combined uF (micro farads) called for in Chris Gupta's design. In this case one might consider using 8 - 9, 80uF capacitors in the pulser construction, providing a combined rating of 640uF and 720uF respectively. To be consistent in my pulser design, I used all identical caps from Fuji cameras for the 5 (and now 7) capacitors in my array (see images below). There are two basic designs in Fuji disposable cameras. One uses a larger cap than the other. Because the caps in Fuji cameras are not labeled, I had no way to tell for sure, what the combined uF rating is for the capacitor array in my pulser. I came across a source on the internet, that gave me a clue that the capacitors in my pulser may have a rating of 160uF, as the capacitors Fuji uses, seem to be either 100uF or 160uF. Since I used the larger of the two capacitors in my design, I can assume that the caps in my pulser are 330V 160uF. If this is the case then the capacitor array in my pulser has a combined rating of 330V 1120uF (160uF X 7 = 1120uF). The negative terminal of electrolytic capacitors is marked by a stripe running down the side. Two 5-contact, Terminal Contact Bars were used to solder the photo flash capacitors to. As the capacitors need to be connected in parallel, each Terminal Contact Bar has a piece of 14 gage copper wire soldered at each contact across the span of the bar to unify all contacts. The Negative pole of each capacitor is soldered to one contact of the terminal contact bar and the same for the positive side of the capacitors. Be sure the screw mounts are facing toward the outside. Once the capacitors were soldered in
place, I marked the hole locations on the plexiglas sub-floor and drilled the holes. The assembly was then fastened to the sub floor with 1/2 inch #4 phillips machine screws, lock washers and nuts. See images below. Most often capacitors in spent disposable cameras will still have a charge and can shock you if touched. If you attempt to build your own pulser, please be sure to always discharge capacitors before removing them from a camera. SHOCK HAZARD: If you disassemble a camera, be extremely careful when removing the cover and handling components. Avoid touching any of the circuitry until the capacitor has been discharged. I recently got shocked from a camera that had a 330V 80uF capacitor inside, and it really hurt! The jolt went up my whole right arm and it took about a half an hour for my hand and arm to feel normal again. Capacitors are not to be taken lightly and should be considered dangerous and potentially life-threatening! Making a Capacitor Discharge Tool: One can make a capacitor discharge tool with two insulated alligator clips, about 16 inches of 14 gage stranded wire and a 10,000 ohm, wire-wound, 10 Watt resistor. Solder an insulated alligator clip to either end of the insulated wire. Then cut the wire about 7 inches from one end, and solder the resistor in place. Now wrap the resistor and solder points with at least three layers of ELECTRICAL TAPE. Discharging Capacitors: Carefully connect the alligator clips to the capacitor terminals (one clip to each exposed terminal). The resistor will drop the voltage down in a minute or so.
About the Single Capacitor Just Past the Bulbs: Chris Gupta told me that one can use the same Photo Flash Capacitor in this location, that is called for in the five capacitor array. As mentioned above, if one only had 330V 80uF caps to work with, one might consider using two 80uF caps hooked together in parallel to bring the combined uF rating up to 160uF. Diodes: Diodes are also directional and must be installed properly. Their primary function is to insure the flow of current is only in one direction. This symbol diode diagram small is used to indicate a diode in a circuit diagram. Current flows from the cathode side to the anode
side. If they are installed with the polarity reversed, your pulser will not work. The stripe on any diode indicates the cathode side and the negative pole.
About flying fender washers: My washers don't fly up from the center of the coil as with some other designs. Washers on my unit fly in line with the sides of the coil. When experimenting with this, one needs to play around with the magnetic field until one finds the right spot. Once I figured out the correct positioning for the washer, I was able to get a 1-1/2 inch fender washer to soar about 40 inches into the air. Pretty
Starting my Pulser for the First Time: I didn't know what to expect when I plugged the chord into the outlet and pressed the on switch for the first time. The lights came on momentarily and then went out. Chris Gupta told me this was normal. Should you build your own machine based on this design, and after turning the unit on, the lights come on and stay on, immediately turn the machine off and troubleshoot your assembly! Also if the lights don't come on at all, then something is amiss as well. I had rubber gloves on when I pressed the push-to-make switch for the first time. When pressing the push-to-make switch the lights shown brightly and I could hear a slight momentary sound from the wires in the coil. Again, Chris said this was normal. All was well and I had successfully built my pulser. After repeated pulses, the coil will begin to get warm. This too is normal. Note: Always press and instantly release the push-to-make switch. The circuit is designed for repeated but momentary bursts of electromagnetic pulses. Keeping the push-to-make switch depressed will damage your pulser. First time around, it took me about six hours to build this pulser. I'm guessing I will be able to make it three to four hours the next time. Chris Gupta's EM Pulser Circuit
Images of my Pulser Below pulser image 2a
Image below is of my modified pulser with 7 Photo-Flash Capacitors Notice the additional 2 capacitors and the additional solder point bars. When I discharged the capacitor array, it sounded like a firecracker going off in my ear and the tips of the 14 gage wire were slightly melted. There was a noticeable difference in the discharge strength of seven capacitors as compared to five. One does not want to get shocked by that! A jolt like that going across one's heart could be lethal! - Please be careful and always discharge capacitors, even if you think they are not charged. Instructions to build a capacitor discharge tool that will safely discharge a bank of capacitors is outlined above. Image below is of my modified pulser with 7 PhotoFlash Capacitors Notice the additional 2 capacitors and the additional solder point bars.