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Tuning Guide
Hercules/Cummins B-3 Rifle
By: R. Sauer & V. Palitang

Tuned B-3 featuring original stock finish and a Powerline 3-9x32 scope. Note that white spacer has been removed from the
Copywrite and contacts
R. Sauer
V. Palitang
Introduction to the B-3 rifle
Identifying the B-3 features
B-3 variants
Tuning options
Appearance options
Tear down procedure
Parts descriptions
Basic Lube Tune
QF2 mainspring upgrade
Mainspring dimensions
B-3 Mainspring
QF2/B4 Mainspring
Mainspring pre-load and piston weighting
Leather seal expansion washer improvement
Mainspring bearing surfaces
Trigger polishing
Bed-liner stock coating
Making a muzzle brake for the B3
Basic design

All text and images contained within are the sole property of their authors. Reproduction and/or
modification in part or in whole is prohibited without specific written consent of the authors.
Questions or comments can be mailed to...
Russell S. Sauer
Virgil S. Palitang
Pre-tuned B3s and tuning services are available at

Introduction to the B-3 rifle

The B-3 is manufactured by Industry Brand of China and can often be found under the name of Cummins
and Hercules or simply called the B-3. It is an underlever rifle that is available in both .177 and .22 caliber.
Typical velocity of the rifles out of the box is 450-500 in .22 and 550-600 in .177. Of course you may find
some that vary from this but quality control is not a strong point of the less expensive Chinese airguns. It is a
simple rifle that is easy to work on, responds well to tuning, and is very accurate. The only complaints I have
about this rifle concern the trigger spring and cocking arm latch which are prone to breakage over time.

Identifying B-3 features

The following pictures illustrate some key areas that help to identify the B-3 rifle. The rifle featured below is
a late model variant with the cleaner woodgrain and finish and black mainspring guide. Note that the stock
was not relieved where the trigger guard is fitted as it is with the B-4 rifle. The rear sight it ahead of the
loading port and is spot welded to the receiver while the front sight is simply pinned to a turned-down section
of the barrel.

B-3 front sight

B-3 rear sight

B-3 trigger (note that trigger is 2 piece sheetmetal unlike milled B-4 trigger)
Typical late model B-3 grain pattern

You can basically break the B-3 into two categories, early model or late model. The late model rifles are
preferable as the finish and assembly tends to be better, there is less wood filler on the stocks, and the
improved spring guide is both stronger and shorter which allows for installation of a larger mainspring. It is
easily identified by the white spacer found between the stock and butt of the rifle and the spring guide is
typically black as opposed to the early model which is white.
Tuning options
Some of the options that have been used in tuning the B-3 include basic cleaning and lubrication, leather seal
improvement, synthetic seal retrofit, B-4 spring upgrade, piston stroke modification, and transfer port tuning.
I will try to touch on each of these as this guide progresses.
Appearance options
There are many options when it comes to enhancing the looks of your B-3. Some modifications not only
improve it's looks but also improve other aspects of the rifle's performance. Some of these include shortening
the barrel, installing a muzzle brake, shortening the cocking arm, refinishing or painting the stock, coating
the stock with bedliner (as was done in the example picture on the first page), and many more. You are only
limited by your imagination. I will try to address the bedliner application and cocking arm modification later
in this guide.
Before getting into the steps involved I feel it may be best to cover a few thing that will help you avoid
The trigger group on this rifle uses several pins as pivots for items like the sear, trigger, and anti-beartrap
mechanism. These pins are held in place by the stock so care must be taken during stock removal to avoid
having these pins fall out. The best method for preventing this is to avoid having the rifle on it's side when
you remove the stock. I usually lay mine on it's back so that I have access to the underside and have found
that this works best.
1. The spring is under substantial load when installed in this rifle. Although I am able to remove the
spring without a compressor, I would advise against it. A spring compressor should be used every
time you tear down your B-3 as it prevents damage to the rifle as well as yourself
2. Moly (as in moly paste or lube) is harmful and should not be allowed to contact your skin. I suggest
using latex gloves to avoid this and make cleaning up easier.
3. ALWAYS hold the cocking arm when the chamber is open, ALWAYS have the stock installed when
testing the cocking action, and ALWAYS try to avoid having your hand between the cocking arm and
the barrel with the rifle cocked. It only takes on incident to hurt yourself badly and injuries can
include loss of limbs and broken bones so don't take these lightly.
Tear down procedure

There are several ways to go about tearing down the B-3 rifle but I have tried to lay this out in a way that will
assist those who are doing this for the first time. As you gain experience with your B-3, you may find your
own way of doing things. Until then, this will help you get the job done.
I must assume that you have a spring compressor and some mechanical aptitude otherwise you wouldn't be
trying this. If you require a hospital visit after installing a light bulb, this probably isn't a great idea.


I am sure this will be overly simplified for many but it may prove useful to those who are just getting started
in this hobby.
1. Barrel-the portion of the rifle through which the pellet travels after firing
2. Muzzle-the portion of the barrel where the pellet exits
3. Receiver-the portion of the rifle that the barrel attaches to, contains all internal parts
4. Cocking arm/lever-lever that you actuate to cock the rifle
5. Cocking link-connects the cocking arm/lever to the chamber
6. Chamber-the area where compression takes place, piston slides within
7. Piston seal-seals piston to chamber in order to compress air, leather or synthetic
8. Piston-powered directly by mainspring, slides within chamber to compress air
9. Mainspring-spring that drives piston forward upon firing
10.Spring guide-secures spring within receiver, stabilizes spring to avoid canting
11.Trigger-stamped steel lever that actuates firing
12.Sear-locks piston in rearward position during cocking and releases piston during firing when actuated
by trigger
13.Trigger spring-connects trigger to sear
14.Anti-bear trap-prevents trigger movement when cocking lever is in the fully cocked position
15.Expansion washer-found within leather piston seal, helps seal maintain shape and helps to secure it to
the piston
16.Breach-portion of the barrel where the pellet is inserted
17.Breach seal-seals chamber to the portion of the barrel where the pellet is inserted
18.Transfer port-orifice in chamber that air passes through before contacting pellet
19.Stock-the big wood thing
20.Butt-your sitting on it
1. With the rifle sitting on it's back, remove both front stock screws and the rear trigger guard screw
before removing the stock. Work slowly and watch for loose trigger pins.
2. Remove trigger pins and set aside. The sear pin uses e-clips to retain it so carefully remove the e-clip
from one side of the pin and slide the pin out. Do not remove trigger spring from sear/spring
assembly. Doing so can cause premature spring failure and is not needed to service this rifle. Note:
the sear pin, sear, trigger, and trigger spring can remain in place during tear down if desired. Be sure
they are kept out of the way while servicing the remainder of the rifle.
3. Remove the anti-bear trap spring assembly ( just ahead of the trigger group) by removing one
retaining screw. Leave screw in the spring retainer to keep the springs in place. The rest of the
mechanism can remain in place at this time. This step is optional since the cocking link can be
removed by extending the anti-bear trap springs and relieving pressure against the link.
4. Unlatch the cocking arm and unscrew the pivot pin/front sling swivel. With the pivot pin removed,
rotate the cocking arm and link away from the barrel until it releases from the chamber. Once the
cocking arm and link are removed, set aside the anti-bear trap.
5. Remove the plastic end cap at the rear of the receiver. Using a spring compressor, depress the spring
guide into the receiver and drive out the guide retaining pin. Slowly release spring tension with the
6. Remove the rifle from the compressor, the guide from the spring, spring from the piston, and then
slide the chamber/piston assembly out of the receiver.
7. Remove the piston from the chamber by pulling gently. Avoid catching the leather seal on the cocking
slot in the chamber.
8. Remove the piston seal retaining screw and then the expansion washer from the seal
To reassemble the rifle, reverse the steps above making sure to apply blue threadlock to all screw threads,
especially the piston seal retaining screw. The illustrations above show the correct order of parts installation.
Basic lube tune

The focus of this tune is to smooth the action of this rifle and gain a small amount of power in the process.
Most of your time will be spent eliminating any areas within the action that might create excessive friction
between the moving parts. I will describe the process by breaking it down by individual parts. A thorough
cleaning should be done both before and after all polishing or sanding.


1. Receiver
Using sandpaper wrapped around a wooden dowel, smooth the inner surface of the tube. Pay close
attention to the areas that have been spot welded and the opening where the sear protrudes. Any area
that might catch on the chamber or piston needs to be smoothed.
Also take a piece of sandpaper and round off the edges of the loading port to. Start with a course
paper ad work your way to a finer grit as you progress. Some minor sanding marks in the surface are
fine and will help to hold any lubricant in place. Also smooth the edges of the opening that the
cocking link enters.
Lubricate the interior of the receiver with a light film of moly paste being sure not to get any on the
trigger or sear. Do not lubricate the end of the receiver where the barrel enters.
2. Chamber
Using sandpaper, smooth out the front and rear edges on the outside of both ends. You want to
eliminate sharp edges that may gouge the inside of the receiver as it travels during cocking. Also
round off the edges of the opening that the cocking link hooks into.
Using an automotive brake hone and a drill, hone the inside of the chamber until the surface is
uniform and as smooth as possible. If you plan on installing a synthetic seal, leave a slight crosshatch.
If you are retaining the leather seal, get the surface as smooth as possible and then follow up with a
very fine sand paper.
Lubricate the interior of the chamber with a very thin film of silicone grease (dielectric grease). Do
not lubricate the exterior.
3. Piston
Using sandpaper, round off the front edges of the piston behind where the seal seats and the opening
that the spring enters. You want to be sure that the front edge of the piston will not gouge the chamber
as it travels forward during firing and that the rear will not gouge the receiver as it is cocked. Also use
the sandpaper to smooth out any weld marks and to soften the edges of the cocking groove. Polish the
indentation that the sear engages when cocked. Don't change the angle or shape of the indentation but
simply smooth the surface. This will improve trigger feel.
Lubricate the exterior of the piston with a light film of silicone grease. Do not apply grease to the
indentation that the sear engages.
4. Main spring
Use a fine stone or sandpaper to polish the spring ends. Also round off the cut edges of the end coils
to keep them from digging into the piston or spring guide. Inspect the spring for canting. If the spring
has serious canting then it is best to replace it.
Lubricate the ends of the spring with a small amount of moly paste. If using spring tar, apply it lightly
to the exterior of the coils except where you have applied the moly paste at the ends. If you aren't
using spring tar, apply a light film of moly paste to the exterior of all spring coils.
5. Spring guide
Remove and molding seams from the guide where the end of the spring will seat. The spring should
be able to rotate as freely as possible on this surface.
Lubricate any guide surfaces that contact the spring with a light film of moly paste.
6. Cocking link
Smooth all areas that contact the receiver or chamber using sandpaper. Do not alter the shape of the
hook that engages the chamber.
Apply a light film of moly paste on the portion of the cocking link that makes contact with the groove
in the receiver.
7. Leather piston seal
Remove expansion washer and retaining screw from seal, degrease it using automotive brake clean or
preferred cleaner, scuff exterior surfaces with sandpaper to raise a slight nap, then soak seal in leather
conditioning oil for approx. 15 minutes. Once seal has been cleaned and soaked, knead the seal with
your fingers while adding oil as needed until it is pliable but not too soft. Once this is done dry the
seal using paper towels until it is just slightly moist to the touch.
No further lubrication is needed.
8. Breach seal
Inspect this seal for cracks or other irregularities that may prevent it from sealing. If the seal is not in
good condition you will have to replace it. Replacing this seal is as simple as pulling out the old one
and pressing in the new one. Sometimes the old ones are rather hard and don't want to cooperate but it
will come out. The QF2 cleaning kit contains 2 new seals that will fit this rifle. See the section on
upgrading to the QF2 mainspring for more details on this kit.
No lubrication is needed.
9. Barrel
Use a length of nylon trimmer or “weedwacker” line to pull through a few cloth patches saturated
with “Goof off” followed by dry patches. Repeat this until the patches come out of the barrel clean.
DO NOT USE bore brushes or metal cleaning rods or damage to rifling within the barrel may occur.
No lubrication is needed.
QF2 mainspring upgrade

Besides the basic lube tune, this has to be one of the better modifications you can perform on your B-3. The
QF2 spring is found in the QF2 cleaning kit that is available online from retailers like It not only includes the spring but also includes 2 breach seals, a new sear, and a
synthetic piston seal. The piston seal will need to be adapted if you wish to use it and the included oil and
cleaning rods shouldn't be used on any airgun you cherish. Those of you who have the late model version of
the B-3 with the black spring guide have it easy. Those with the earlier white guide will have a little work
ahead of you.


With the black spring guide, the QF2 spring is a perfect fit and requires no modifications. If you have the
white guide, you will have to cut back the area of the guide where the spring seats until it matches the
dimensions above. The distance from the center of the retaining pin hole to the end of the spring seat must be
no longer than 1.640 inches. A little shorter is actually better as it allows more freedom for you to pre-load
the spring on the piston end. The new spring should be lubricated as outlined in the “Basic lube tune” section
before installation.
What to expect. Cocking effort will increase very slightly, velocity can increase anywhere from 50-100 fps
depending on your rifle, and the rifle will be much smoother to cock and fire. Installing the spring will take a
bit more effort as it is stronger and longer than the original so be sure that your spring compressor is up to the

B-3 black guide with dimensions

Mainspring dimensions

For those who may be interested in finding alternative springs for the B-3, I have provided the specifications
below. These dimensions are correct at the time of this writing. Due to production variations, your
dimensions may vary slightly from what is listed.

B-3 mainspring

• Coils=36
• Wire size=.117
• Length=9.30
• Inner diameter=.490
• Outter diameter=.737

QF2/B4 mainspring

• Coils=37
• Wire size=.116
• Length=10.25
• Inner diameter=.484
• Outter diameter=.734
Mainspring pre-load and piston weighting
Pre-loading the mainspring is the act of inserting spacers between the spring and piston to decrease the
springs installed height. Adding pre-load can increase velocity and smooth out the rifle sometimes but it
needs to be done cautiously as it can also cause damage to the spring or prevent the rifle from cocking.
People often use metal washers inside the piston where the spring seats to add pr-load and weight. Adding
weight can also add power sometimes but adding too much will cause piston slam. Piston slam is when the
momentum of the piston moving forward overcomes the resistance of the pellet in the barrel causing the end
of the piston to slam into the end of the chamber. This will send a shock through the spring and into the
plastic guide and can cause them to fail. For those who wish to tune without adding much weight, ½ inch
nylon faucet washers found in hardware or home improvement stores work nicely. Each washer is approx.
1/8 inch thick and adds little weight.

Three lubricated nylon washers installed in a B-3 piston.

I've found that an unmodified B-3 with the stock spring can usually run 3/8 inch of pre-load without binding
the spring and often provides good results. If you want to try adding weight, pennies make a good testing
medium and can be used in conjunction with the faucet washers. Any washers or spacers that are installed
between the spring and piston should be lubricated with a small amount of moly paste.
Leather seal expansion washer improvement

Many people choose to keep the leather seal that the B-3 came with but wish it could seal a little better. This
modification will improve the leather seals ability to do it's job and will make it's diameter adjustable so it
can be fitted to the chamber better.


You will need two 3/8 inch faucet washers and one ½ inch faucet washer. Remove the retaining screw and
original expansion washer from the seal. Remove the retaining screw from the expansion washer and then
install the ½ inch faucet washer followed by the two 3/8 inch faucet washers. Install the new assembly into
the seal, apply blue threadlock to the retaining screw threads, and install assembly onto the piston. The
tighter you turn the screw, the larger the mouth of the seal becomes. Adjust is so that there is a light amount
of drag when the piston is moved within the cylinder.

Original expansion washer, modded expansion washer, leather seal

Mainspring bearing surfaces

Due to it's very nature, a coil spring will twist during compression and expansion. In most applications this
isn't much of an issue however, due to the length of the spring and the requirements we have for our airguns,
this can present a problem when it comes to shooting. If spring twist is not controlled during the firing cycle,
the rifle will produce substantial recoil which can effect accuracy. Since we can not eliminate this twisting
action we must learn to control it. The goal of this modification is to install lubricated bearing surfaces
between the mainspring and the remainder of the airgun action. This allows the spring to rotate independently
in relation to the rest of the gun and may provide reduced recoil, higher velocity, and a quieter spring action.
This procedure will add a minor amount of spring pre-load which must be taken into consideration in order to
avoid coil bind.


You will need to find two metal washers, one for the piston end of the spring and the other for the guide end.
Although I have been unable to find washers which fit without modification, adjusting their size is relatively
easy with a little mechanical inclination. The approximate washer dimension required are listed below.

Piston end
Outter diameter=.790
Inner diameter= no specification required

Guide end
Outter diameter=.790
Inner diameter=.470

The piston end must have an external diameter that allows it to fit inside of the piston and rotate freely.
Thickness and internal diameter on not important here however, thickness will effect mainspring pre-load.
The guide end must have an internal diameter that allows it to slip over the guide shaft and rotate freely. The
external diameter must be small enough to allow it to fit within the receiver without interfering with normal
movement of the piston. The dimensions provided should work with most B-3 rifles. Once again, the
thickness is only important in that it will effect spring pre-load.
Once you have the correct washer dimensions it is important that all surfaces be polished in order to reduce
friction. A fine sandpaper will handle this nicely.

With properly sized and polished washers, apply a slight amount of moly on both sides and install them in
their respective positions. Reinstall the mainspring and assemble rifle as normal. If, after assembly, the rifle
will not cock fully then you have either coil bound the spring or the rear guide is too large and is preventing
the piston from moving rearward enough to engage the sear. On an otherwise stock gun, coil bind should not
be an issue as it can use approx. 3/8 inch of pre-load safely.

Note that metal washers are not required if suitable synthetic versions can be found. Normally I would
suggest using synthetics at the piston end to avoid adding too much weight to the piston. When using
synthetic washers, it is best to use two washers back to back per spring end to keep friction to a minimum.
Doing this increases our pre-load more than the other options but can produce excelent results. Treat
synthetic washers the same as metal ones as far as dimensions and lubrication are concerned.
Black B-3 guide with lubed metal washer installed
B-3 piston with lubed synthetic washers. Note that two are required when using synthetic washers.
Trigger polishing

Since composing the original version of this guide, I have received several requests to add a section on tuning
the B3 trigger. Well here it is.
Although this trigger group is extremely simple, care must be taken when performing any polishing in order
to avoid altering the surface angles where the sear and trigger blade make contact. Alteration of these angles
can cause a failure to cock or accidental discharge so pay attention!


All polishing should follow the direction of component operation. In the following illustration that would be
left to right. Although a smooth surface is desired, do not sacrifice the surface angles to obtain one.

Following the illustration provided, polish both areas highlighted in yellow. After polishing, apply a thin film
of moly grease to the polished surfaces and trigger pins.
Also note the area in red. This is the trigger spring which is prone to breakage. If you notice that the trigger
becomes "sloppy", it is in your best interest to examine this spring and probably replace it to avoid a
dangerous condition.
Bed-liner stock coating

One of the biggest complaints concerning many of the Chinese manufactured airguns is the poor finish
quality of the stock. The stock is often dipped in a stain/varnish mix and allowed to drip dry which leaves
clouding, runs, and no hint of any grain at all. The unfortunate thing in many cases is that once stripped of
this varnish, we find that the wood isn't exactly pretty. Another issue we encounter is the fact that the
bedding is routed after the varnish has been applied which means that the bedding area is not protected from
moisture. For those who use their rifles outside, this is a problem.
For those who have found their stock in too poor a condition to refinish or who simply don't care to go
through the effort, the bed-liner option is quite appealing. It offers both the look and texture of a synthetic
stock as well as excelent protection against the elements. Mine make trips through the woods very often and
the coating manages to stand up to briars and anything else that I have thrown at it.
The following is the procedure I have used that I find obtains the best results.

B-3 stock finish showing exposed bedding area


The only product I have tried so far has been the Dupli-Color brand of Truck Bed Coating. It has never given
me any problems and it is readily available so I have had no reason to try other brands. Based on this fact, I
can't speak for the results or techniques that might apply to other products. I would assume that the results
would be the same with this technique but to do so is at your own risk.

• Remove the stock from the rifle and then all hardware from the stock (butt, sling swivel, and trigger
• Degrease stock using Simple Green or comparable cleaner
• Use 240 grit sandpaper or comparable to scuff the original finish.
• Note that you do not need to strip the finish to bare wood, only to scuff the original finish so
that the bed-liner can adhere properly.

B4 stock which has been scuffed as mentioned above

• Using lint free cloth, dust entire surface of the stock
• Shake can until mixing ball moves freely inside and make sure that the can is within 68-92º F.
• In a well ventilated area, spray the bedding area from above the stock and then the openings beneath
the stock (trigger and cocking slot openings)
• Be sure to seal entire bedding area
• Move on to the exterior of the stock by spraying both the butt and fore-end
• Now paint all remaining surfaces and blend into areas already covered.
• distance between nozzle and stock should be kept at approx. 6 inches and spray motion should
go from end to end
• Repeat the painting process 2-3 times allowing atleast 15 minutes drying time between coats
• The more coats, the more aggressive the texture, the longer the final drying time
• Allow the completed stock to dry for atleast 24 hours before reinstalling hardware and assembling the
• This final drying time is important as it allows the finish to harden. If you do not allow it to
dry fully, it can be scratched.
• The stock can be cleaned up with a damp cloth or you can also use furniture polish to maintain a
slight sheen

B-3 stock after bed-liner coating showing the protected bedding area
This illustrates the bed-liner texture after applying 3 coats
Making a muzzle brake for the B3
By Virgil S. Palitang


The B3 - for all its charm - does come standard with something no air rifle deserves to be afflicted with. A
stamped iron front sight that is riveted and cross-pinned to a turned-down section of the muzzle. Out of the
box, my B3's front sight had a deformed hood, probably from sliding around unsecured in its box during
shipment. The iron sights worked, no question, but they were also the most hideous things I'd ever seen. So
when I came across a scope at the local sporting goods store, I figured it was time to get rid of the 'cancerous
mole' - the front sight.

After grinding down the rivets, punching out the retaining pin, and prying the front sight assembly loose, I
found that the turned down section of the muzzle was almost as ugly. It was mostly bare metal, but had
picked up some blueing in certain areas. There was even more of that wok oil in the small ridges of this
section. I suppose I should have cut it off, but then I would probably not be writing this article.

Basic design

Figure 1. Muzzle brake diagram. Not to scale

Figure 1 shows the basic diagram of the muzzle brake assembly and also the parts that are involved. Itemized
list follows:

• 1/2 x 8 PVC pipe nipple

• 1.5 to 2 inches of 1/2 inch dia. hose
• JB weld or similar
• Small screw to be used as set screw
• 1/4 inch carriage bolt to be used in making the plug

Important note: The 1/2 inch hose sleeve is a modified piece of hose. It was originally labeled "RV water
hose" at the "mart of wal". This has 2 layers - a clear outer layer and a white inner sleeve. These layers are
separated by criss-crossed fiberglass threads. If you have seen it, you know what I'm talking about. It might
also be marketed as 1/2 inch garden hose. The inner sleeve is what should be used. Discard the outer layer
and the glass threads.


1. Prepare the muzzle. Make sure it is clean and free of oil or grease. Slip the hose sleeve onto the turned
down section as far as it will go. It will be a tight fit because the muzzle is a tad larger than 1/2 inch.

2. Prepare the muzzle brake body. Cut the threaded sections off of the PVC pipe nipple. Keep one of the cut
off sections. This will be the mold for the plug.

3. Slide the PVC piece onto the muzzle. The sleeve will make it a very tight fit. I sprayed a little WD-40 on
the sleeve to help slide it on. The WD-40 evaporates and the PVC piece stays put.

4. Making the plug.

Figure 2. Plug mold diagram. Not to scale.

As it turns out, the head of a 1/4 inch carriage bolt fits inside a 1/2 inch PVC nipple. It's a bit loose, but not so
much that it's unacceptable. The length of the carriage bolt isn't super critical as long as the smooth section is
making contact with the the JB weld. Drill a 1/4 inch hole in a wood block for the carriage bolt to go through.
Put a lump of JB weld in the mold and push the carriage bolt down to form it into shape. It might make
things easier if you polish the carriage bolt with auto wax before using it. I didn't, so it's not disastrous, but in
hindsight, I think I should have waxed the bolt to make release a little easier.

5. Install the plug. It may take some persuasion, but once the JB weld has hardened, it can be removed from
the mold. This plug should now be installed into the muzzle brake body. It will probably look a little rough,
but don't worry, JB weld is sandable.

6. Finishing. Once the plug is installed, drill into it and put in the set screw. I don't have access to any fancy
screws so I just countersunk a small metal screw into the plug. This keeps it in place while the face is sanded
into an acceptable finish. I used a sanding block with 120 grit, then 220, then finished with 320. Use a 1/4
inch drill bit in the muzzle brake exit to widen the hole a bit, and adjust the hole if it seems off center. Paint
the entire assembly your choice of color. Black seems to work nicely, but if your personality/creativity calls
for something else, feel free to take this opportunity to express yourself.

That's all I have for now. As always, be safe and have fun!