Blanket chest Pine hutch CDStorage Quilt rack

Mission nightstand Pendulum cradle Hall bench Bunk beds Butcher-block island Jewelry box



Display until July 4, 2006

6 0>


72440 14073

Router tips Drilling tips Working with pine

Sanding tips Plywood tips Fixing goofs Machining tips Avoiding chip-out

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From the editors of



Edit 's
Over the past 22 years, WOOD® magazine has published over a thousand woodworking projects. The collection in this special issue represents 34 of the all-time favorites. We know from reader's thank-you notes and photos, for example, that hundreds of infants have spent the first weeks of their lives in the Pendulum Cradle featured on page 72. Because woodworkers could choose from three popular styles, the bookcases featured on this cover and on page 36 were an instant hit. And we heard from fans of small projects who enjoyed building the Crown-Molding Shelf t page 78) and the Potpourri Box (page 128). We get feedback from our staff, too. Way back in 1984, one of our editors made a dozen of the Leaf Cutting Boards (page 7) from our very first issue. Not only have these Christmas gifts stood the test of time, but a younger generation of family members now request the same cutting board for their own homes. Practical gifts and great designs have staying power! We've also learned that readers like you are hungry for helpful shop tips. That's why we've selected 101 of our best-ever tips to help you build your projects faster, easier, safer, and with less waste. Enjoy,

Bill Krier Editor- In-Chief, WOOD magazine

PS.: If you have a great tip you would like to share with others, mail or e-mail it, along with a photo or illustration, and your daytime phone number, to:

WOOD Magazine 1716Locust St., LS 221 Des Moines, IA 50309-3023 E-mail: You'll earn $75 if we publish your idea. And if your tip is judged worthy of "Top Shop Tip" honors, you'll also win a tool prize worth at least $250! Check out and then navigate to the Forum section for more Shop Tip ideas.

America's Best-"Evel aSho,p This

WoodWorking Projects
Editor-in-Chief BILL KRIER Managing Editor MARLEN KEMMET Art Director KARL EHLERS Publication Writer CARL VOSS Publication Graphic DeSigner RAY NEUBAUER Senior Vice President DOUG OLSON Publisher MARK HAGEN

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Projects & Shop Tips

4 Photo Bookends
Frame favorite photos and support good reading with this pair of bookends.

7 Cuffing Board
Build a stack of leaf-shaped boards for all the members of your family tree.


Weather Station
Add a thermometer, hygrometer barometer, and to your home.

10 Contemporary

Jewelry Box

woods and tapered

will grab your attention.

14 Storybook Bookcase
Dollhouse and castle designs provide imaginative shelving for kids' treasures.

19 IPhoto Storage Box
Picture this lidded box for keeping favorite photos close at hand.

22 Mission Nightstand
This Arts & Crafts design is perfect for the bedroom or as a side table.

28 Mission Finishes
Stir up a traditional in your shop. Arts & Crafts finish



22"-diameter joinery.

Build this rock-steady,

project that features traditional

on Ibe cover
Versatile Bookcase
Select from country, traditional, Shaker styles for this 6W-high or case.

44 Architectural
Bird's-eye a classical-style

the face of timekeeper.

maple highlights

46 Blanket Chest
Frame-and-panel this functional construction accents favorite.



Kid's Bedroom Accessories
Dolphin designs splash across a clothes rack, cabinet, and tackboard.



Best-Ever Woodworking


& Shop Tips


bottom put on "scentsational" special Section: 131 132 Router Tips ShopTIPI 136 Drilling Tips 138 Sanding Tips 140 Plywood Tips 142 Tips to Avoid Chip-Out 94 124 woodmagazine. glass in this wall-hung 91 Desktop Photo stand Surround a favorite photo in an Arts & Crafts frame. 120 Working With Pine Try these tips for selecting ing white. 68 Coatrack This country coatrack complements the hall bench on page 62. 62 Hall Bench Combine comfort and storage with straightforward joinery. and finishand yellow pine. capture a traditional 80 Kitchen Work Center Build a hardworking reminiscent maple top of old-time butcher blocks. 72 Pendulum Cradle Here's an all-time favorite design sure to pass from generation to generation. ponderosa. 106 CD Storage Cabinet Five-drawer cabinet accommodates up to 160 CDs from your collection. 102 Quilt Rack Display treasured family heirloom handiwork or a on this popular project. 78 Crown~Molding Shelf Create an attractive off-the-rack shelf from crown molding. 11OPine Hutch A sideboard and upper cabinet country look. 94 Twin Beds/Bunk Beds Build twin beds or join them together for a sturdy bunk-bed set. 124 KidsActivity Desk This sturdy design will remind you of yesteryear's school desks. 128 Potpourri Box Let a scrollsawn top and screened 144 Tips to Fix Goofs 149 Machining Tips 152 Tips for Making Multiples 157 More Woodworking Tips 3 . 88 Bread Knife Pick up this kitchen utensil and you'll slice homemade bread to perfection. 86 Salad Tongs This clever hinged design is a genuine picker-upper.58 Collector's Shadow Box Small treasures get top billing behind showcase.

) Cut the 3/16" and 1/8" dowel spacers shown to keep the ll/s"-wide center rail (C) and 11/16"-wide center stiles (D) flush at the outside edges with the I W'-wide rails (A) and stiles (B). C.. Now cut the rails (A) and stiles (B) to the lengths listed on the Materials List. A simple jig guarantees Qerfect results. Now cut a 23. and finish-sand it. cut the base (E) and upright (F) to size. From 1/2" stock. To ensure quick and accurate assembly of the frame. and cap With the glue dry. and cut the center stiles (D) to length. B. ere's a project you can build in an evening or two with just a few shop _ scraps. where shown on Drawing 1. as shown in the Shop Tip opposite. D) cut a 314"-thick board to 11/4x48". upright. Rip the remaining stock to 11/16"wide. To quickly change photos. make the jig shown in Drawing 2.4"long rail spacer.Materials List make one bookend. and damp Mocks with plustic packing tape 10 prevent exces. (We used MDF. Mark the angled corners. then cut the center rail (C) to length. simply lift off the walnut cap and pull up the acrylic panes/ photo sandwich. or . COI'er the base.\:(111(/ Ihe center cleat {II !ijlf>" thick 10 {lI/OI\' th« caut ta applY el'ell pressure /0 the frame. D). cleat. B.\' gllle [rom sticking /0 the ji/4 paris.. Sized to hold standard 4x6" vertical format photos. WH·. where shown on Drawing 1. Resaw it in half and plane the halves to 1/4" thick. See Source for {/ moil-order kit yj' supplies and pianed-to-. you won't have to cut a single joint to assemble the stacklaminated frames. tltickness wood Firstbuild the frame For the rails and stiles (A..Frame favorite photos and support good reading with this pair of easily made bookends. __ ~ ~ Note: The quantities shown o{f't/It". Note: Be sure to ploJle . see the Shop Tip on page 6.. C. Take care not to round the edges or ends. remove the frame from the jig.. Finally cut 1/8" glue-relief grooves 1/16"deep in both sides of parts C and 0. and 4 America's Best-Ever Woodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 . Add base. For a safe method of resawing on your tablesaw. Rip the remaining stock to ll/s" wide. Then assemble the frame members (A.

checking ter. and adhere it to the part with spray insert in your tablesaw. rabbet the cap. end clamp block. Then place dowel spacers next to the cleat. and clamp From adhesive. Position the second set of rails (A) and stiles (8) around the cleat. When the glue dries. and lay them in place.bandsaw Glue and sand them to shape. as shown page 6. Alternating among the side clamp block. (F) and clamp the base (E) and upright in place. glue. Make a copy of the 3. lines. centered. Clamp the side clamp blocks then the end clamp blocks in place. and clamp it in place at the corners. Then finish-sand EJ CLAMPING JIG SHOPTIPl - -- A simple jig makes perfectly flat and square frames a snap Position two rails (A) and two stiles (8) around the cleat. Wipe off any excess glue with a damp cloth. centhe frame (A/B/CID) Drawing W' stock. and caul clamps. woodmagazine. and sand the cap (G) tapers to the pattern the entire cap. Place the caul on top of the stack. fence attached in Photos to D Then install a zero-clearance a dado blade in an auxiliary your tablesaw and E on Bandsaw rip fence. housing together. them for square. Apply glue to both sides of the center rail (C) and center stiles (0). cut the cap (G) to size. end of the upright. Now. Finish-sand the parts. gradually increase the clamping pressure. cap pattern. applying light pressure. and add the rail spacer. Then rabbet the bottom where 5 . applying light pressure.

center the stock on the blade. Supplies: :¥: mediun-oensity fiberboard. or go to heritagewood.) 'Resaw in half and plane both pieces to the finished thickess.SHOPTIP2 Pad~style pushblock Auxiliary fence Safe resawing on a tablesaw When it's time to resaw lumber for thin stock.95 ppd. and remove the protective covering.3 bd. ft. rabbet the edges of the cap (G). you can do it on your tablesaw. See Ihe instructions. $134. Cherry and walnut planed to the finished thicknesses for the parts listed above." SY4" 41/s" 8'/. Then make additional cuts. Then cut two Y'2"-thick clear acrylic panes to 4x6". . 1/s"and 3M' dowel. two pairs of bookends. ~ 3/4" D FULL-SIZE -------------. sandwich two photos back-to-back between the panes. PATTERN 45/a" Adjust the blade height to '7"6" to clear the splitter. a bandsaw usually comes to mind. $64.95 ppd.95 ppd." clear acrylic: spray adhesive.. MDF and dowels for one clamping jig with each order. raising the blade each time until the depth of the cut is just over half the width of the stock you are resawing. and add the cap (G).." 2'14" 2314" lW' 61j. Smooth the sharp edges with a sanding block.) Stick four self-adhesive bumpers to the bottom corners of the base.' 71/2' 9'/2' 4~!8" C C C C W W W 4 4 2 '/4 11 '/2' '/2' 'Ii' 'Parts initially cut oversize. self-adhesive bumpers. Push both pieces of the resawn stock all the way past the splitter with the push block. Then make a 3x8" push block with a %" notch 6" long from stock at least as thick as the stock to be resawn. See the instructions.J. Source Wood and supplfes kit. 6 America's Best-EverWoodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 . Repositioning the fence to expose ~64" of the blade. W-walnut.. Sandwich a photograph between the panes. But in many situations. below. (We applied two coats of an aerosol satin polyurethane." llW" 11/s" IV. W-159 and indicate one of the following quantities: one pair of bookends. The photos. #8xl \14' flathead wood screws.~ lTd I 'I =_. Now 'finishand assemble Check over the bookend. and keeping the same side against the fence. Outfit your tablesaw with a zero-clearance insert equipped with a Va" hardboard splitter that protrudes %" above the surface of the insert. slide it into the frame. $37. Heritage Building Specialties. Apply a clear finish. Flip the stock end-for-end. Written by Jan Svec with Chuck Hedlund Project design: Steve Levine. Lorna Johnson Materials A'rails B'sliles C' center rail D' center stiles E base F upright G cap Materials 1/:" W' 11/4" List IV. N.) Now put a picturesque end to your bookshelf. . sanding with nO-grit sandpaper between coars.. repeat the previous cutting sequence in the other edge until the stock is sawn in half. Illustrations: Roxanne Dayton. such as preparing the 1/4'-thick stock for the frame parts in this project. self-adhesive bumpers. Slightly chamfer any sharp edges with a sanding block. Order kit no. key: C-cherry. Call 800/524-4184. five pairs of bookends. and resand areas that need it. and plastic packing tape for the frame clamping jig. CAP FULL-SIZE PATTERN ® SIDE VIEW Rail space(. lBIades: Stack dado set. Most 10" tablesaws easily resaw boards up to 5'12" wide. show how. (For a bookend visible from both sides."". and make the first cut. hi" clear acrylic. J I :=j 3/4 X 3V2 x 48" Cherry (1.

salad bowl finish or mineral oil.' 0 sptine SHOPTIP3 Seal it and save it Properly sealed. cutting boards will last for decades. See the instructions. woodmagazine. delamination and warpage could occur. where shown in Drawing 2. trace a favorite leaf outline onto the stock. with a bandsaw or jigsaw. cut grooves along both diagonal edges to accept the spline (D). With the top surface of each triangle facing the rip fence of your table 7 . With a band saw or jigsaw. If the board's appearance suffers from knife cuts.' V8" FINISHED . When the finish appears to be wearing thin. Supp'lies: Water· resistant glue. Using Drawings 1 and 2 as reference. brush on a new food-grade oil. - o EXPLODED VIEW ® I Va" droove '12" deep Rip and crosscut the leaf strips and veins (A. Seal the cutting board with salad bowl finish or mineral oil. B. grooves. Sand the edge-joined stock smooth.W· 1" 1/a" SIZE l MaU.. resand before applying new sealing coats of finish. Mark a line from one comer to the other on the lamination. After the glue has formed a skin (about 20 minutes). To protect cutting boards. laminate the alternating cherry and maple strips (A. if the finish wears down and moisture gets into the wood. M-maple. and edges. Flop one of the halves and mark the top side of each half with an X. Using a water-resistant yellow glue. cut out the leaf shape. Glue the main vein (C) to one of the halves. Materials key: C-cherry. remove any excess with a chisel or scraper. Then. • Materials List -------- T A' leaf strips B' leaf veins C' main vein 3/4' 3/. C M M HB 7 6 1 8" 8" 12" 12" Vi' 3/. draw a leaf pattern onto cardboard and trace it onto the glued-up stock. making sure that the crosscuts are square to the edges. B) in the configuration shown in Drawing 2. then cut it to length. Qty. wash them with a warm soapy cloth instead of immersing the board in water or placing it in a dishwasher.leaf-shape Looking for a great gift idea you can build in a hurry? Relaxl Thisintriguing design is guaranteed to please any host or hostess. Sand the outside edges smooth. You'll need a 1/8" groove Yz" deep in the half with the main vein (C) and a 1/8" groove I!I" deep in the other half. Joint the diagonal cut edges. *Parts initiatty cut oversize. Or. HB-hardboard. Apply glue to the spline. cut the board on the diagonally marked cutline. then clamp the two halves together.' 3/. But. and C) to the sizes listed in the Materials List plus 1/2" in length.

For a handy reference.xpect a storm of compliments with this great little project. Apply an even coat of glue to the top surface of the body (A). where dimensioned on Drawing 1. and lay it on the 5/a"-thick spacer. For general guidelines on using barometer readings to predict the local weather. and cut the blank to a finished size of 4x 10". opposite. Start with the body Laminate a blank for the body (A) from two 3/4x4\i4x12" pieces of oak. taking equal amounts off both faces. Clamp the top (C) in place. Plane the blank to I Ys" thick. centering it side-to-side and front-to-back on the body. Clamp the feet (8) in place. centering them side-to-side and front-to-back on the foot areas. see the sidebar. and lay it on the 3/a"-thick spacer. 8 America's Best-Ever Woodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 . Mark the vertical centerline on the body's front face and the 31/2° tapers %"-thick spacer Apply glue to the foot areas of the body (A). opposite. you may want to photocopy the sidebar and adhere it to the back of your weather station. loint one edge. It's so good looking that no one will realize you made it from scraps that were gathering dust in your shop just yesterday.

you can make some pretty good guesses about the type of weather headed your way. Working from the centerline. Chuck a 2Ys" Forstner bit in your drill press. $34. 118 stai n. Then rout W' chamfers along its bottom ends and edges. 23/s" Forstner bit no.4" chamfers along their top ends and edges. 400901. sanding with nO-grit sandpaper between coats. Finish-sand the feet and top. Sand them smooth. Written by Jan Svec with Kevin Boyle Project design: Schlabaugh and Sons Woodworking Illustrations: Mike Mittermeier. and see if you can out-guess your local meteorologist .* Storm approaching from S or SW.45 each. Plane one to 5/s" thick and the other to 3/s" thick.40 ppd. and cut the top (C) to 2%x II %". first cut two 2x14" spacers from %"-thick scrap stock. and resand any areas that need it. see above. Clearing and fair. mark the centers of the three 2%" holes.95 ppd.'. and draw the curve. bend a fairing stick to connect the three points. Schtabaugh & Sons. Using the spacers to position the body (A) for the proper front and back overhangs. The National Weather Service provides the following rules of thumb for wind-barometer readings that generally are applicable to all parts of the United States: Wind Direction From S to SE From E to NE From E From W Barometer Falling steadily Falling steadily Falling Rising Forecast Storm approaching from N or NW. Additional kits cost $26. To assemble the weather 9 . Kit includes thermometer (1). Add the feet and top woodmagazine. Call 800/346·9663. Now check the temperature. Mark the ends and center of the body's bottom arch. and then press the instruments into the 200AC-WS-I. passing near or to the north within 12 to 24 hours.. and barometer (1). of Zar Aqua Coat satin finish. $18. Plane oak stock to s/s" thick. as shown in Photos A and B. humidity. and then sprayed on two coats *The speed of the storm's approach and its intensity is indicated by the rate and amount of the fall in the barometric pressure.. Finish-sand the body. or order online at schsons. IA 52247. and barometric pressure. Apply a stain and clear finish. Cut the tapers on your tablesaw and the arch on your bandsaw. glue the feet and top in place. set the barometer according to the instructions included with the instruments. Forstner bit. where shown. Then rout 1. where shown.o EXPLODED VIEW 5/S" Hygrometer on its ends. See more gift and decorative accessory plans at Plane oak stock to Ys" thick.* Foul How 10 use Baromeler readings to predicl the weather By combining wind direction with barometer readings. 720 14th St. Schlabaugh & Sons. woodmagazine. passing near or to the south within 12 to 24 hours. Finishing touches Inspect the assembly. and drill the I "-deep holes. hygrometer (1). (We applied Zar Dark Mahogany no.) With the finish dry. and cut two feet (B) to 21/sx2%. Kalona. Lorna Johnson Instruments. Order kil no.

Select your own combination of species.with contemporary flair Contrasting woods and tapered legs make it a real eye-grabber. Don't let the refined appearance of this project fool you. or try one of the combinations handy buying guide for all of the necessary stock milled to the required thicknesses. You may have a harder time choosing which woods to use. In the Source on the opposite page. shown here. We'll show you how to shape the tapered legs using patterns and a sander. It's not difficult to make. you'll find a Ash with cherry 10 America's Best-Ever Woodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 .

Materials key: BM-bird's-eye maple.) 3/a" 3/11 . miter-cut the glued-up blank to form the front and back pieces (A/C) and side pieces (BID) to the lengths listed.) 'Plane to thickness listed in the Materials List. $25. Cascade St.) Y:" Va" SHOPTIP4 Cut parts in sequence . cut four licQxYsx2W' splines for joining the corners of the' 3/4" 21/4' 1/4' 1" W G'lid sides H'lid center I' handle braces 3/4 X 6 x 12" Bubinga (. To have continuous grain flow at the corners of a box. W1435. Machine the splines from the same wood species that you select for the trim so the ends of the splines. tt. Heritage Building Specialties.2" clearance on all sides when it is installed in the box.00.4 bd. Identify the parts with numbers. B--bubinga. The bottom is undersized to provide a 1/.com 11 . ft. rip two 1/4x28" strips for making the front and back trim (e) and side trim (D). from W'-thick stock. cut a 2x28" blank for forming the front and back (A) and sides (B) of the box. Supplies: Spray adhesive." . where shown on Drawing 1. Some blanks in kit are preglued and machined to simplify project.) Use a backer board to avoid chip-out. Fergus Falls. ft. 205 N. and right side). On the inside face of the 2x28" blank..make the box From V2"-thick stock. remove the clamps and sand or plane the glued-up blank to a thickness ofvs". front. From W' hardwood plywood.8 2" 2" 1/4' V4' 411/16 11 8" 5" 8" 5" 711/16 2" 73/4' 73/4' 1W' 63/4' 11 BM BM B B HP B BM B B B 2 2 4 4 1 4 2 2 '/2 X 2 x 28" Bubinga I H (.8 31. ] '/4 X Materials List A' front and back B'sides C' front and back trim 6 x 12" Hardwood plywood D' side trim E bottom F' feet i 1/2 X 3 x 28" Bird's-eye maple (. ft.6 bd. Also. HP-hardwood plywood. 3/a" 1/4 11 7 I 7 I ~9 Jtnpi 3/0" 3/4" 3/. When dry. lacewood/cocobolo.08 bd..00. ®Back ® Front Source Hardwood kit. miter-cut the pieces in sequence from the blank (e. $110. cut the bottom (E) according to the size listed in the Materials List. where shown. will match the trim. Call 800/524-4184 or go to heritagewood.g. Enough stock for five boxes. velvet. woodmagazine. cut a W' groove W' deep and W' from the bottom edge to receive the bottom (E). Enough stock lor one box. cardstock. From I/s"-thick stock. kil no. Specify wood combination for kit (bird's-eye maple/ bubinga.5 bd. kit no. ft. which are visible in the assembled box. With your tablesaw blade tilted to 45°. or ash/cherry). for continuous grain flow J handle 'Parts initially cut oversize.First. to make it easy to match up the mating corners during assembly.) 1/a x 1 x 12" Bubinga (. Finish-sand the grooved face of the blank to 220 grit. o EXPLODED VIEW Cuffing Diagram . W1431. See the instructions.4 bd. Glue and clamp the trim strips to the edges of the 2x28" blank.) 3/4 X 5 x 12" Bird's-eye maple (. (We cut test stock first to verify tight miters. cut the back first followed by left side. MN 56537.

form the tapers on the end of the blank by sanding to the lines of the attached pattern. mount a belt sander in your vise. cut a lis" groove 3116"deep in the ends of the front and back pieces (A/C) and side pieces (8/0) to receive the splines. make sure that all four feet touch the work surface before tightening the band clamp. Using the remaining patterns and following the same process.keepsake box with contemporary flair Use a stopblock to ensure consistent positioning of the spline grooves in the mitered ends of the box parts. cut two 2 1/4x8I/z" pieces for the lid sides (G). (See the Shop Tip. With the rabbet facing up. First. below left. form the other three feet from the blank. as shown in Photo C. like the feet (F). as shown in Photo B. Rip a 3/4"-wide strip from the rabbeted side of the blank. cut these from a 5"-wide piece to maintain grain flow on the lid. Make four photocopies of the full-size foot pattern. Now. After the glue is dry. Put a lid on it From 3/4"-thick stock. Then. A wide blank keeps hands well away from the tablesaw blade when ripping the foot stock to width from the blank. and check for square. tilt your saw 12 America's Best-Ever Woodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 . Remove material from the corners of the bottom little by Iittle until all joints fit correctly. crosscut the 2"-long foot from the blank. dryassemble the front. from W'-thick stock. cut a 1/4x8W' strip for the lid center (H). back. Apply glue to the mitered ends of the front. sand 1/8" roundovers on all outer edges of the feet. To cut the 18° bevel on the lid. and to use a 12"long blank that will keep your fingers out of harm's way. With the box on a 1"-thick spacer. Using spray adhesive. Also.) Cut or sand away a small amount of material at a 45° angle at each corner of the bottom (E) to enable it to clear the splines during box assembly. Forming tapers on small parts safely You don't have to risk getting your fingers too close to the moving blade of your tablesaw or bandsaw to form tapers on small parts. With the box placed on the spacer block. and assemble the pieces with the bottom located in the 1/4" groove. Check that all joints fit together without gaps. Then. A safe way to do this is to sand the tapers. Now. the splines. bending it over the blank at the fold line. attach the tapered foot part of the pattern to one end of the blank. Apply glue to the top I" area on the inside of the feet. position the feet on the box. apply glue to the splines. with the belt up. cut a 4x12" blank to form the feet (F). do some footwork Fromvi-thick stock. This rabbeted blank wili form the feet (F). back. and secure with a band clamp. Taper the sides of the foot by sanding to the pattern lines.) Then. From a scrap of I "-thick stock. where shown on Drawing 3. and side pieces. where shown on Drawing 1. To complete the feet. (We made test cuts in scrap first to verify the groove position and depth. Repeat for the spline grooves and 1/4"grooves in these pieces. Glue and clamp the lid center (H) between the lid sides (G). Referring to Drawing 1a and to Photo A for setup. as shown at right. Cut a lie" rabbet 1/2" deep along one edge of the blank. where shown on Drawing 1. and side pieces. Secure the box with a band clamp. and the bottom. rip a %"-wide strip from the blank. trim the lid (G/H) to its finished length of 7314". Drawing 2. make a 33/4x I0" spacer block to support the box at the required height for attaching the feet. As shown on the Cutting Diagram.

form the \!!" radius at each end of the handle by sanding. Cutting in this sequence minimizes chip-out.JxS3/4". Remove the patterns. Finish-sand the entire lid to 220 grit." -----j ~ 3/4 "---1 FRONT VIEW END VIEW blade to ISo from vertical. (We used aerosol satin lacquer. where shown on the end view of the full-size handle-brace pattern. cut the corners of the velvet at 45°. Glue the handle in the slots of the handle braces (1) so that the ends of the handle extend 5/16" from the bottom of the braces. Apply three coats of a clear finish of your choice. Now. Sand to the pattern lines to form the 14° sides and 1/s" 13 . cut the handle (1) to the size listed. and press in place against the plywood bottom . apply spray adhesive to the bottom of the cardstock. Apply spray adhesive to the bottom of the velvet and to the top of the cardstock. Finish-sand the box. first cut a lx l?'' blank from 3/4"-thick stock. where shown on Drawings 1 and 3. and hand Ie with 220-grit sandpaper. crosscut the blank to make the two ll/. Attach the front view part of the pattern to the handle brace pieces using spray adhesive. lid braces. Now. centering the card stock on the velvet.HFOOT FULL-SIZE PATIERN 11 SECTION VIEW • BEVEL-CUTIING DETAIL Va" roundover sanded to shape Va" round-overs TOP VIEW 5/'6" rabbet y. Now. Frazier Lorna Johnson woodmagazine.) Finally. Drawing 4. To avoid chip-out.. cut a Y'o" rabbet 1/4" deep around the perimeter of the lid (G/H) on the bottom side. Fold the outer edges of the velvet onto the bottom of the cardstock. Install a 1/s"-wide blade in your tablesaw and set it to W' high. cut a piece of cardstock to 4YI6X7Y. raising the blade or bit a little at a time with each pass. To make the handle braces (I). where shown on Drawing 3. where shown on Drawing 3a. Make two photocopies of the full-size handle-brace pattern. glue and clamp handle assembly I/J to the lid. Finishand line the box CD 5/'6" \---- Va" slot '12" deep 1'/. Then. sanding to 400-grit between coats.6". Cut the bevel on the ends of the lid first. then. where shown on Drawing 3. From I/x"-tmck stock.~" round-over on the top outer edges of the lid (G/H). where shown on Drawing 3. and position your fence 1i2" away from the base of the blade.j"-long pieces." deep Blade tilted 18° from vertical 2" ® ~ 3/. Place the cardstock/velvet in the box.. cut the sides. Referring to Drawing 1. Sand the I. Using your tablesaw or a rabbeting bit in your table-mounted router. cut a groove along the length of the blank to accept the handle (1). make several passes around the lid. Referring to Drawing 3.. and sand to the pattern lines to form the W' round-overs on the outer top edges and the 7° bevel on the sides. and cut a piece of velvet to 5Y. Remove all dust with a tack cloth. Then. Written by Owen Duvall with Thomas Project design: Dave Morrison Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine. Join the two glued surfaces together. Adjust your fence to center the blade on the %" thickness of the blank." -~I--SIDE VIEW 3/4" FRONT VIEW ----I '/32" clearance all around tI HANDLE BRACE FULGS~E PATIERNS / attach the end-view pattern to the braces.

righten a child's room and provide an imaginative place to keep books and treasures with this colorfu! doll house or castle design. Just add the needed roof or trim to customize the design. glue and clamp the case together. 14 America's Best-Ever Woodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 . the bookcases have identical base and case construction. B storvbo Build the cases From Y. Just add a few simple details to complete the desired style. Check for square.From one simple case plan. Screw scrap 34W'-long braces to the cases' bottoms to keep the assembly square. cut Ys"-deep dadoes on the inside face of the window sides (A) and on the inside and outside faces of the door sides (8)." and mark their inside and outside faces. Glue the shelf (F) between the door sides (8). For ease of assembly. build either the doll house or castle bookcase shown here.J" groove :)/x" deep along the back edge on the With the back (E) captured in the grooves in the sides (A. Adjust the dado set and cut a I!. and poplar. B) and the tops and bottoms (e) to the sizes listed in the Materials List. cut a%"-deep rabbet along each end of the sides (A. where shown on Drawings 1 and 2. Then. and paint. where dimensioned in the drawings. B) on their inside face. 8) and top and bottom (C).j" medium-density fiberboard (lVIDF). plywood. Label the side pieces "window" and "door. Using a stacked dado set adjusted to the thickness of the MDF. cut the window and door sides (A. You can build either structure for about $60. The units are made of medium-density fiberboard.

drill Vs"-deep holes in the door sides (B) for the shelf supports. and backs.Quoins 29° bevels . see page 18. Make the drilling guide shown on Drawings 3 and 3a. with a 3/32" pilot hole '/2" deep in part ® 1/4' groove 3/S" deep 1/4' from back edge 5/02" ----_ .. Drill a W' start hole inside the window and door openings. inside face of the sides (A. cut all of the openings to shape.. Then.. Dollhouse roof s 5/S4' pilot hole o EXPLODED VIEW shank hole. wood 3/4' 3/S" 9 dadoes deep ''/4"-diameter shelf support . assemble the two cases by gluing together the sides (A. as shown in Photo A. where dimensioned on Drawing 2._ Create this entertaining castle-style bookcase by adding easy-to-make turret tnm and quoins to the cases. using a jigsaw with a IO-teeth-per-inch blade. B) and tops and bottoms (C) for the backs (E). making sure you have mirror-image door sides.._ ~-_/ I 1'1 #8 x 11/4' F. where dimensioned on Drawing 2. Using the guide and a stop collar on your W' drill bit... Make sure each case has a window side (A) and a door side (8).. woodmagazine... countersunk on bottom face of part 0. B). shelves. countersunk on bottom face of part ©.com 15 .. B).. Cut the shelves (D) and the backs (E) to size..H. Then.. tops and bottoms (C). _ r--- 12"... / 5/32" shank hole.. with a 3/02" pilot hole W' deep in part © \ For the board feet of lumber and other items needed to build this project. Smooth the openings using a half-round file followed by l80-grit sandpaper. Layout the window and door openings in the sides (A.

) DOOR SIDE WINDOW SIDE 16 America's Best-Ever Woodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 .E) PARTS VIEW Lff ! 11/~ 2W I 2W'r- 22'12" ROOF TRIM • t I 9/. bolheO':j '18" flat on 13 f-----14 /.---o~o o 0 0 0 0 0 0 ® 3/4" dado ® 3/4" rabbet 3/8" deep 3/a" deep ~ 1/4' groove 3/a" deep 1/4' from edge ® 4..6" f------18./4" 1145/a" 2" R=2" 6" 173/a" 8'12" t= 6" 1" I -0 0 0 2" lFACE _j 4" ~ y.3/.___J 1/4" holes 3/8" deep _1) R=2" %" 30" 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 3/4" dado 3/8" deep 23'18" 3/4" dado 3/8" deep -I 145/8" 2 1." from edge f----------jj OUTSIDE INSIDE FACE (Other door side member is a mirror irnaqe.6" R=1'12" '=® V 29° L I ROOF SUPPORT 10W ." groove 3/8" deep y.6" -----------1. ---:1 ~-------------37%"------------------~ f-------12" ---------1 %" rabbet 3/8" deep 6" R=2" 1 30" 12" 8" j_ .) INSIDE FACE (Other window side member is a mirror Irnaqe.

. cut and sand them to shape. and sand smooth. and remove the dust.. Final assembly Using a small amount of latex caulk adhesive and # ISx I" brads. With the roof panels (R) positioned so they overhang the roof supports (0) 1" in the front and '14" at the back. Jigsaw the parts to shape. P) to the listed lengths. Then. layout the cutout on the front and back trim. cut the piece to shape. prime all the parts. and fasten with screws. (We used Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty. glue it between the cases. " 4 ~ groove W' deep. supports. where shown. alternating the quoins orientation as Make the base Cut the base panel (1). angle-cutting one end of each piece. Sprayadhere the pattern to the hardboard.:f through 6 make II ' ! 011· { ails. drill pilot holes. cut the window trim (I) and thick and thin quoins (0. With the case assembly supported on 11/2'thick spacers. Cut the roof trim (S) to size. where dimensioned on Drawing 2. lists the brand and colors we used. ease any sharp edges. Cut the dollhouse roof supports (Q) to size.. attach the center turret trim (N) using adhesive and Sd finish nails and quoins (0. Layout the angled top and radius cutout on each support. Using this piece as a template. window-trim and quoin blanks. Then. jigsaw or bandsaw to the pattern lines. Set the shelf.D DRILLING GUIDE ~STOP DETAIL r. drill ~M" pilot holes before driving the nails. and assemblies with a stain-blocking latex primer. where dimensioned on Drawing 2. where shown on Drawing 1 and as shown in Photo C. Cut the adjustable shelf (G) and supports (H) to size.WJ tI 3. Cut the roof panels (R) to size.1. cut a 1/2x22" blank for the window trim (I). and front and back trim (L) to size. where dimensioned on Drawing 1. Coloring time Fill all the nail holes with a paintable wood putty. mark the contour along its complete face. and nail the panels to the supports. Glue and nail the trim pieces to the base panel. When the glue dries. Set the blanks aside. where shown on Drawing 1. Cut a 1/4X 11/4x21" blank for the thick quoins (0) and a YI6X 11/4x14" blank for the thin quoins (P). page 18. woodmagazine. Note: Fol/O\I' steps ! Ilil"llllglfV3 make th« castle details 01" steps . and beginning at the square end of each roof-trim piece. where shown on Drawing 1. For the castle bookcase. and cutouts. where shown on Drawing 1. Then. From W' hardboard. scrap to raise assembly for installation of part@ Add "thecastle or doll ouse details~ __ /0 . bevelripping one end of each panel. From I/""-thick poplar. rout v:~" round-overs on the turret-trim assemblies and center turret trim (N). and sand smooth. )ll Cut the castle turret trim (M) and center turret trim (N) to size.. and sand smooth. prime and paint the parts' ends. Apply two coats of latex paint to the primed surfaces. From the blanks. and trim blank aside. side trim (K). cut a 2x7if2" piece for a marking template. nail the roof supports (Q) to the supports (H). To prevent splitting. Photocopy the full-size partial pattern on Drawing 4. locating the supports (H) where shown on Drawing 17 . Jigsaw the cutouts to shape. Now. as shown in Photo B. Using the template.) Sand any areas that need it. Glue and nail the turret trim (M) to the supports (H). nail the roof panels to the roof supports. P) using adhesive and # ISxW' brads. where shown.. rout W' round-overs along the trim's top edges. mark the remaining pieces. centered Cut the center fixed shelf (F) to size. attach the window trim (I) to the window sides (A). The "Bookcase Paint Schemes" table. lightly sand when dry. Then. where shown. Then. cut and sand the trim pieces to shape. where shown on Drawing 2. and sand smooth. center the base assembly (_I/KlL) side-to-side on the case assembly's bottom. corners. Then. Now. Then. layout the crenellations (notches) on one of the trim pieces.

I 0. Bookcase Paint Schemes Bookcase part Beh~ Disney-series paint color' I Caslle Bookcase Christopher Robins Swing Case (A through G) !lC4C·40·2 100 Acre Trees Supports (H).-" © © I© I© •v.. I'\MY:. where shown on Drawing 1.K.. window trim (I)." 4'/4" 11/4' 3/11 . and drive the screws..~.4 ~/ill available at Home Depot. ® Supplies: Sd finish nails. #ISx3/. A window sides B door sides 4/0" " 12" 12" 111/4' 11'14' 11 V4' 11'14' lOW' 12" Vi' 151/2' 3" 3" 30" 30" 12" 111/2' 291/4' 12" 11'1/2' 12" 5" 34" 151/2' 35V2' 123// 12" 1')-. position the base assembly (J/K/L) on your workbench..-~=-8&?~ 3/4 x 48 x 48" Medium-density fiberboard Find more great projects for kids at X 7'/4 X 96" Poplar (5.--.-------- .' and #ISxl" brads. using 8d finish nails.P) DC4C·40·1 Dollhouse Bookcase Pooh Bear Yellow Case (A through G) DC1A-30-2 Supports (H). Drill mounting holes through the tops and into the supports. base (J. spray adhesive. I/a" and W' roundover router bits. ft. install the shelf supports and the adjustable shelf (G).' X 48 ® <. fiberboard.. roof trim (S) Moonlight Waltz DC3A-10-2 'Prerm.4 P P 1/4' roof supports R roof panels S roof trim ~~~:r lOW' 14¥. . N) DC4C·40·4 Skipping Stones Window trim (I).) "Plane or resaw to the thicknesses ~ .... with the bevel-cut ends together. and drive the screws. With a helper. Materials key: MDF-medium-density BP-birch plywood.. P-poplar. Then. Hums in the Sun roof supports and panels (0. Place the case assembly faceup on your workbench on spacers.K.~~ -~~--~ ® Q) I 3/4 Blades an d bits: Stacked dado set.L)..• Written by Owen Duvall with Jeff Mertz Project design: Kevin Boyle Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine. i I'M' :. ® (~=~1 r ---. latex caulk adhesive.91 FULL-SIZE PARTIAL PATTERN ROOF TRIMI FULL-SIZE PARTIAL PATTERN ® shown.3 bd. Lorna Johnson M turret trim N center turret trim O' thick quoins ::VIL\I 4V.'-diameter shelf supports (4). position the castle's turret-trim assemblies (HIM) or the dollhouses roof assembly (H/QIRIS) on the case assembly. to the front roof support (Q). #Sxl '14" flathead wood screws (16). . stand the bookcase upright. R) DC1A-30-1 Base (J. turret trim (ivi. I(M)-' c_.L). Paint the screw heads to match the tops' color.' C tops and bottoms D shelves E backs F center fixed shelf w3/411 G adjustable shelf H supports I' window trim base panel K side trim front and back trim 3/4" 3/11 .JSM)' . and touch up with paint.) 18 America's Best-Ever Woodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 . quoms (O. Fill the nail holes. V.. IKM)·JL-'I\MI9 ® '14 x 24 x 48" Birch plywood wDodmagazineJcom/kids 3/4 x 5'/2 X 96" Poplar (4 bd. and center it on the case assembly. Then. 221f2' MDF MDF P 2 2 2 3/~'1 :Y4 11 Cutting Diagram 'Parts initially cut oversize. aligning the supports (H) with the tops (C). Remove the braces from the assembly's bottom..~~::J 3. fasten the trim. Then.: @ @ ® I® 1 I ' .4 i 2 4 /l il 3/'l ... paintable wood putty." MDF MDF MDF MDF BP MDF MDF MDF P 2 2 4 2 2 3/4'1 ~~<l. 2 P P 2 S ~%[I Finally..' lW' 37SJs' 24'. 'CQ. watch the fun begin .m Plus Interior Semi-Gloss Enamel paints. Drill mounting holes..-. apply adhesi ve to the back face of the roof trim (S). For the doll house bookcase. as shown in Photo D.• l~~ ® listed in the Materials List. ft.. ~~. As applicable. See the instructions..~ x 96" Medium-density fiberboard ~.


You can even display two photos at a time in the lid by sandwiching them backto-back between the glass panes. and adjust it to cut Add a picture-frame lid 20 America's Best-EverWoodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 . Finish-sand the pieces to 320 grit. 1 14 bb t. chuck a W' straight bit in your tablemounted router. we designed an attractive solution.e 14 eep Self-adhesive along Sides and frontQ_____J 7rO rubber bumpers i1:] RABBET/NOTCH DETAIL 1 Y~ 3/4" 1/4' round-over sanded after assembly k:: J 21/4' 1/16" round-over.(sx20" for the lid sides (E) and lid ends (F).l"d--. and the 3/4"-wide rabbets along the front and ends. make multiple passes to rout the W' -wide rabbet along the bottom's rear edge. Then move the back to the left until it contacts the other stopblock. Resembling a book. cutting one edge parallel to the grain before ripping it to final width. and adjust it to cut 1/4" deep. where shown on Drawing 1. maintaining a 90° angle. make a final pass. Finish-sand the pieces. we selected a piece of straightgrained ash. rabbet in the back.4" rabbets on the ends of the back. lower the back (8) onto the running bit. then glue and clamp them into the rabbets in the bottom and back. Form the ends of the hinge notch in the back (B) by cutting Vs"-deep kerfs in the top edge. Next. then miter-cut one lid side and one lid end from each piece. Cut stock 1/2x21J4x25" for the ends (C) and front (D). chipping. our box looks great on the coffee table. Because the dog-eared processor's envelope never looks good lying about.) Clean up the ends of the cut with a chisel.""'9 th 9"" First. sanded after assembly pages. Tum the part over and repeat. ra . (To resemble a book's Cut two pieces 1/2X [7. Reposition the fence to expose 5116" of the bit.) To get the grain to wrap continuously around the corners. With its right end against one stopblock. Next. glue and clamp the lid frame together. Chuck a W' straight bit in your tablemounted router. completing the hinge notch. %" from each end. Rout a YsXVs' . Rout the 3. Raise your W' router bit to make a Vs"-deep cut. Rout 1/8XI/4" rabbets and 1/8" chamfers. then clamp stopblocks to the fence.ow do you store your holiday or vacation photos? We like to show ours when friends or family stop by. miter-cut the parts to length in the sequence end-front-end. Using the fence to limit the cut. o EXPLODED VIEW 3 ". H ml END SECTION VIEW DETAIL 1"9". To prevent chip-out. With the back's inside face against the fence. measure 8Ys" in each direction from the bit's center. (Making the Ys"-deep cuts first reduces the chance of Place photos between glass panes. Glue and clamp the back to the bottom. 3/4" rabbet 1/4' deep ~ ~ ~ Sand a 1/4' radius on corner. where shown on Drawing 2. complete the notch by routing between the kerfs. as shown on Drawing 1a. and position your router table fence to expose J/s" of the bit. back your cuts with a scrapwood auxiliary extension attached to your tablesaw miter gauge.make a booklike box Cut the bottom (A) and the back (B) to the sizes listed on the Materials List. as shown in Photo A. Finish-sand the front and ends. Then. Now. Sand the rabbets smooth.

and sand matching radii on the bottom's corners." 91/211 7" 9" ® corner ''q 1'12" 2" A ~ LID SECTION VIEW 0' lront E' lid sides F' lid ends G' corner labs %"lh. Sources Sand 114" radii on the lid's comers.> . rubbing between coats with an abrasive pad. A-ash. glue. sand the tabs flush with the lid's edges. Retrieve the box. where shown on Drawing 1b. Ease one top long edge of each triangle with a sanding block. Drill screw pilot holes for the turn buttons.) 'Plane or resaw to the thickness listed in the Materials List. such as Deftoil or Minwax Antique Oil. Downing Illustrations: Kim Downing. Materials Key: B-bird's·eye maple.05.3 bd.5 bd.~I. 1/16" deep.) '/2 X 31/2 x 36" Ash (1 bd.6"-deep rabbet. For safe handling when changing pictures. Finish up the details Position the hinge so the knuckle is flush with the back and the lid's rear edge. Cutting Diagram 1/2X 9% x 36" Bird's-eye maple (2. finish. see the nsnucncns. as shown in Photo B. cut at 45° V4' radius sanded on corner after assembly Project design: James 21 . Flip the frame over and. M-mahogany. making multiple passes until the frame's corners ride against the fence. 6293.90. tt.> ® tab ® .2" 1 B B A A B B M 1 2 2 4 W 1/. $1. 800/871-8158. Written by Jan Hale Svec with Chuck Hedlund '/. ~'-" 2"~ J) ''V . as shown on Drawing 2b. 3/8x7%" slop hinge no. rout shallow recesses across the Iid's corners.00/20.49/20. Stop Hinge. 00080. Glue and clamp them into the corner recesses in the lid. 8377. . forming 1/10" round-overs. corner Back edge of lid Screw the turn buttons and the hinge in place. and adhere the bumpers to the bottom. woodmagazine. Call Lee Valley. and 11/2" from the bit's outside edge. bottom. Q/lG" brass-plated turn buttons no. Cut two pieces of single-strength glass to fit into the lid's rabbeted opening. sand the edges of the glass panes with 320-grit sandpaper.2" -thick strip from a ¥4xlYsx12" piece of mahogany.corn. With the glue dry. $4. Hardware. Lorna Johnson Photographs: Wm." 1/. radil1S~. There is no rabbet along the rear edge. Cut four oversize triangles for the corner tabs (G). V2XI/a" self-adhesive bumpers no. Ease the edges of the lid. including the back's ends. ft. finishsand the rabbet Resaw a Y. ~. rout a IYI6"wide rabbet along the ends and front edge. Hopkins 3/32 x 1'12 x 3" tabs A bottom B back C' ends 1/2' corner ~ CORNER TAB DETAIL 7W 21/4' 21/4' 2'14" 17/a" 9 . Supplies: #2x3/a"brass flathead wood screws (4). Cali Meisel Hardware Specialties. in the same manner as with the bottom. 800/441-9870.) ~_\ 3/4 X 1 % x 12" Mahogany (. and drill the screw pilot holes. or go 10leevalley.. Apply two coats of a wiping varnish. where shown on Drawing 2a. Single-strength glass. tt. #1 brass screws (8). Then.Rout the corner tab recesses. $2.'. When the glue dries. with a sanding block./ " 3" W' 1/2' 3/32' 9 1// F/s" 11/2' 71// 3" 'Parts inilially cui oversize. Position the fence parallel to the miter-gauge slot. and the inside ends of the back. and the miter gauge at 45°.

C) and along both edges of the center stiles CD). (We used Watco Danish Oil Finish. Dark Walnut. you also can place this multipurpose piece next to an easy chair or sofa. top side rails (8). To form tenons on the rails (8. C) and stiles CD). where shown on Drawing 1. Don't need a nightstand? This piece also can serve as a lamp table. and remove the dust. From 3/4" stock planed to %" thick. Then stain both faces. Either way. Save the rail cutoffs to make test tenons. cut a centered 3/R" groove Y16" deep along the inside edges of the legs (A) and top and bottom side rails (8. as ' shown at right. his Let's start with "thesides From 3/4" stock. keeping your favorite reading materials handy. and center stiles CD) to the sizes listed in the Materials List.) Using a dado blade in your tablesaw that matches the thickness of the side panels. cut the legs (A). bottom side rails (C). 22 America's Best·Ever Woodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 . you'll find the project well-suited for any home.- morelhana solid-oak Arts & Crafts nightstand features matching corbels and arched rails in addition to ample drawer and open storage. Sand the panels to 220 grit. cut the side panels (E) to size. where shown on Drawings Thanks to its simply stated design.

where dimensioned on Drawing 2. EJ LEFT SIDE ASSEMBLY 3/4' rabbet V4' deep (Inside face shown) @. top and bottom side rails (8. sliding the side panels (E) in place. Bending a fairing stick to these points. two -Y4" dadoes. where shown on Drawing 3. and cut the tenons on the rails. • For the board feet of lumber and other items needed to build this project. Then cut avs" tenon If. 3/a" mortise 5. glue and clamp a filler (F) in the leg groove tight to rail C. 271/4' '\ ® .'. Then bandsaw and sand them to shape. Test-fit the tenon in the grooves in the rails. Mark the ends and center of the arch on the bottom side rails (C). and -Ys" mortises on each pair of legs. Adjust your setup. Then trim the fillers flush with the bottoms of the legs.AT A GLANCE • Overall dimensions are 28" wide deep x 30112" 23 . Crosscut four 2"-long fillers from the piece. attach an auxiliary fence to your saw fence and an auxiliary extension to the miter gauge. The rabbets and dadoes will receive the top and center shelves (1) and bottom shelf (K).6" ® 3/4" dado 1/4" deep PartQ) over~ngs part® 'Vi6" at front and back. drill the -Ys" leg mortises 5/10" ri ng. x 201/s" o SIDE ASSEMBLY 1 5 '12" ~. where shown on Drawing 2. see page 26.6" chamfer routed after gluing filler@ in place Dry-assemble a leg (A). and sand the fillers flush with the ends and edges of the legs. Glue and clamp a filler in the bottom of the groove in each leg (A). go to wood magazi ne . C). where dimensioned on Drawing 1.6" deep '1 . draw the arches. and center stile (D). and the mortises will accept the tenons on the top back rail (G) and bottom rails (H). rip a 5/16"-wide strip from a piece of 3. Next.:~X 12" stock.--------j --~ -z-> DETAILS I ---=:::::: ® 1 and 1a.4" rabbet. C) with a center stile (D). layout the locations for the -]. (For a free fairing stick plan. Place the legs (A) inside face up on your workbench. Dry-assemble a side assembly by joining together the top and bottom side rails (E. To make the leg fillers (F). as shown in Photo A. With rail 8 flush with the top of the leg.16" deep woodmagazine. and adding the legs (A). Using your table-mounted router. Extend the lines for the rabbets and dadoes onto the leg edges. 3/. Then square the sides and ends with a chisel. Using a Yx" brad-point bit in your drill press and a fence to keep the holes aligned. Let the glue dry overnight.@ 1. and pair them together with the grooved edges on the inside and the ends flush.) J 271/4' 3/s" groove 5/. if needed. rout a 1/16" chamfer around the bottom edges of the legs." long on a rail cutoff. il!I TENON . making sure you have mirror-image pairs.

Now drill \116" holes through the shelves at the centerpoints. Then. Then crosscut the shelves to the fmished length of 20".) Next. Verify all parts fit together correctly. After the glue dries. C). Then. using your dado blade. Assemble a side by gluing and clamping together two legs (A). cut the top and center shelves (1) to 177f8x2 I". top and bottom rails (8. mark a centerpoint IW' in from each comer. for attaching the top (L) later. Glue and clamp the edging. sand the edging flush with the shelf faces.D EXPLODED VIEW R=1" Handle 1 X 177/. and side panels (E). Now glue and clamp them together. on the front and back edges of the shelves. drill countersunk Y32" shank holes in the bottom face. on the top shelf. Mark the ends and center of the arch on the bottom rails. Now redrill the rear pair of holes in 24 America's Best-Ever Woodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 . draw the arches using a fairing stick. centered. Next. aligning the stile with the tape marks. form Va" tenons 1/4" long on the ends of the rails. redrill each of the holes in the center shelf.) Repeat for the other side assembly. to fit the mortises in the legs CAl. (We did not glue the panels in place to allow for wood movement. with the bottom rails set on the bottom edge. Cut the edging so that the quartersawn figure shows on the face. Separate the shelves. Then.6" low-friction tape m TENON DETAILS ~~SCREW SLOT DETAIL 13/4' r ~ 1--13/4'Q)-- ~. where shown on Drawings 3 and 3b. as shown in Photo B. cut four 3/4x21" pieces for the shelf edging (J). To drill mounting holes and slots through the shelves. Then bandsaw and sand the arches to shape. Using a Y8" twist bit."~ 3/4" long I J Center the stile side-to-side and mark its location on masking tape on the top and bottom rails. first align the top shelf on the bottom shelf and clamp them together. trim Y16" from their tenons for a final tenon length of 2IYI6". where shown on Drawings 3 and 3a. From W' plywood. from W' stock. and then disassemble. Switch to a Y16" bit. (These provide clearance for a screwdriver when attaching the top. As before. center stile (D). Complete the case parts Cut the top back rail (G) and bottom rails (H) to the sizes listed. centering on the front pair of holes in the top shelf. where dimensioned on Drawings 3.

bottom rails (H).. Position the top assembly (LIM) on the ~~:4'. and top and center shelves (II)). 'h. .. centering the shelves front-to-back with a 3/16 overhang. Add the bottom rails (H) side assembly to align rail G. Glue and assembly. Reaching inside the case. as shown in Photo D. cut a 3. g1ue and.. workpiece for the bottom shelf (K). loosely clamp together the lett side assembly.. and bottom shelf (K). remove the right side assembly and bottom rails. countersunk on bottom face 1/4 11 from front end #8-32 X 3/4" roundhead machine screw 11 . Then. top back rail (0). Now sand the assemblies. Adjust the dado blade to match the thickness of the shelves (1/J). where shown on Drawing 3b. Complete the case by gluing and clamping together the bottom rails (H). K) to 220 grit. Then mark . to align the top back rail. and right side assembly. Later.(Edge-join 3/4 stock to form a 20x21 . where shown on Drawing 3~ Hand-sand chamfers on the ends of the parts. as shown in Photo C.. Bandsaw and sand the radii to shape. bottom rails (H). place the bottom rails (H) and right side assembly (no glue) in position. . woodmagazine. bottom shelf (K). cut a 3. and disassemble. . top back rail (0). top back rail (0). where shown on Drawing 3. where shown.. where shown on Drawing 3 at left and the Shop Tip on page 27.... Using squaring braces.iJftfj Cut the crest (M) to size. After the glue dries. Repositioning your fence as 25 .case. Verify that all parts fit together correctly. and shelves (Ill.. top back and right clamp together the left side top and center shelves (I/J) . Now tighten the clamps .. as shown. rout V16" chamfers along the front and back edges of the shelf and the edging (J) on the top and center shelves (1). using your tablemounted router. and rail (G).. and then drill additional holes to form 3/16 slots long. Now glue and clamp the crest to the top (L).. making sure the tenon on the top back rail engages the mortise in the right side assembly. Next rout a 1/8" chamfer along the front edge.4tt dado 1/4" deep in each side assembly. After the glue dries. use a 4:d finishing nail to mark the centers of the mounting holes and slots #8-32 X 3/411 roundhead machine screw t "y' Add the top Edge-join 3/4" -thick stock to form a 21x29" workpiece for the top (L). The11. . 1/4" groove 1/2" deep 1/4" from bottom edge V4 grooves V4" deep 11 ~ DRAWER JOINT DETAIL m DRAWER HANDLE DETAIL SECTION VIEW Assemble the case Dry-assemble the side assemblies. 11 3. Then glue and clamp these parts and the bottom shelf (K) in place.'. top and center shelves (IIJ) . crosscut and rip the top to 201/8X28" . centering the shelf front-to-back.411 11 [JDRAWER 7/64" tt pilot hole 11 1/211 deep 1/4" from bottom edge 1/4" dado 1/4 deep 11 1/4" groove 1/4" deep 5/32 shank hole. flush with the back edge and centered side-to-side. U sing a dado blade that matches the 'thickness of the bottom shelf (K) and aligning the blade with your layout marks. 11 . Then rout a 1/4" chamfer along the bottom edges.4" dado and rabbet V4" deep for the shelves in each side assembly at your marks. making sure the assembly rs flush with the back edge of thee top shelf (IIJ) and centered side-to-side. Apply glue to only the front 6" of the bottom shelf ends to allow for expansion and contraction.the front shelf.the 111 radii.. crosscut and rip the shelf to 193/8x20".

3 bd. 25U04. Touch up any areas that need it with 220-grit K' bottom shelf L' top M crest J/~.(.-------·--J---·./Ii ~/4 ~!411 Sf. 3/s" brad-point bit. #8-32x3/4" roundhead machine screws (2). $9. Clamp the assembly. ft. EOO-edge-joined quartersawn white oak. ft.l@h--U oak (4 bd. I.-' 'LJ I I I Tablesaw t I L through the shelf (1) on the bottom side of the top (L). the legs (A) under the top (L). Finishup Cut the corbels (R) to size. Reposition the top. 1/4" @ h 1 I. Blades and bits: Dado-blade set. OP-oak plywood. ~~" 1/2" I L ~~ ~ l-' I Outside face ~ @ . Now drill mounting holes through the bottom and into the back.) 3/4 X 5'/2 X 96" Quartersawn white oak (4 bd. and bottom (Q). #10 flat washers (2). ft. Now bandsaw the corbel to shape." 4" 6" :%11 27'14" 15'12" 151/. IDrawer handle. Drawing 6.4 00 00 00 OP 2 1 4 CD· % x 24 x 48" Oak plywood 0 R corbels 00 'Parts initially cut oversize. cut the drawer bottom (Q) to size. 45" chamfer router bit.) 1/4 x 24 x 48" Oak plywood 26 America's Best-EverWoodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 . Source 3/4 X 71/4 x 48" Quartersawn white oak (2."'" . ~<~II ~/411 N drawer front 19W 18'18" 17V4" 18W' 20" 3/4 X 71/4 X 96" Quartersawn 0 drawer back drawer boltom 1/'2:1 or resaw P drawer sides 1A/' 1/411 3/11 .I 3/4 x 51/2 X 96" Quartersawn rnt *Plane \® white to the thicknesses oak (5. mark the contour on the other corbels.) @ Low-friction tape. and remove the dust._) Step 2 Cut a centered 1/4" groove '12" deep in the ends of part@. ft. back (0). #8xl 1/4" panhead screws (2). and check for square. where shown. Apply glue to the back edges of the corbels. cut the grooves in the drawer front (N) and sides (P) for the bottom (Q).) head wood screws (3). ft._j 1 ---'---1 - 1/4" I " -. ft. Make the drawer Cut the drawer front (N). See the instructions.' 23. Call Lee Valley. . Sand to the line using a 120-grit sanding drum. Supplies: Double-faced tape. 800/871-8158. Then glue and assemble the front.01. where shown on Drawing 3. I I I Step 3 Trim the inside tongue on part@to form a locking joint. ."" :~i4!1 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 OP 4 2 2 2 4 4 3/41' Cutting Diagram 2 4 ~I/ ~~.1 MACHINING Step 1 Cut '/4" grooves and dadoes '/4" deep in parts@and®. 0IW32. Mission-style 23/4" black handle no. %" dado blade l. the dadoes in the sides (P) for the front (N). Remove the top.3 bd.-t~-~"M -. where dimensioned on Drawing 4. Using this piece as a template./ V4 H G top back rail H bottom rails I' top and center shelves J* shelf edging 3%" 3" 177/s" 31i' 193/s" 201/s" 2'/"" 31/211 3" 3V2' 17'. #8x 1V4' flathead wood screws (2). Materials key: OO-quartersawn white oak. Then clamp them in place on A legs ~i~ M 2" S¥4" 4'/. 4d finishing nail. From 1/4" plywood. Low-friction (UHMW) tape no. and drilJ 1'64" pilot holes 1/2" deep at the marked locations. sides (P).50. back (0). Then cut the dadoes in the sides (P) for the back (0). . #8x3/4' flat3/4 X 71/4 x 96" Quartersawn white oak (5. and sides (P) to size. and drive the screws. cutting just outside the pattern line. Then photocopy the full-size corbel pattern. and the locking joint on the ends of the front (N).jll 00 EOO EOO t& I @( white ~/8i' 0/1(.. THE DRAWER FRONT AND SIDES Outside /face r------cey-. Spray-adhere the pattern to a corbel." 16" 16" 11/211 20' 20' 20' 20" 20" B top side rails C bottom side rails D center stiles E side panels F' leg fillers 'l. Referring to Drawings 4 and 4a on page 25 and the three-step Drawing 5 above. Cut and sand them to shape. 1"xI8' roli. .) listed in the Materials List. and drive the screws.7 bd.11. $2. Telephone and Web address above. spray adhesive.. where dimensioned.10. Carefully mark the centerpoints and drill two 5/16" holes through the drawer front (N) for the handle./' 8"-tali ~xiliary fence h . T=l C . 3/4 X 5'/2 x 96" Quartersawn white oak (4 bd. leevalley. positioning them 5/S" from the leg outside edges.

Next.J CORBEL FULL-SIZE PATTERN ..J _J ::l U. attach the drawer handle using #8-32xW' roundhead machine screws. adhere a backer to the assembly using double-faced tape. r:.... attach a 3/4x2x22" guide to the bottom of the assembly legs (A).~-r-------------. referring to Drawing 4b. (:) 2 C\J c .. cut four 177/16"-long pieces from a roll of I "-wide low-friction tape. we:( F @ a::w ON UW . and rest a spell to admire your craftsmanship .com/mlssion woodmagazine.. See page 28 for details on applying an Arts & Crafts finish.~ --------------~ Then apply stain.J ::l u. Lorna Johnson C\J z a:: w _JI1llQ.. Attach the guide to the legs by drilling mounting holes and driving #8x1 112" flathead wood screws into the bottom of the legs. top-coat with a clear finish. (We applied three coats of AquaZar WaterBased Clear Satin Polyurethane. such as the ones Ihal hold the bottom shelf (K).__ (/) See more mission furniture plans at til C Q.) To ensure the drawer slides easily.I .__ s: Q) we:( . Apply two of the pieces to the center shelf (IJJ) and the other two pieces to the top side rails (B). @1lla::w ON UW 1 a:: w ai .) Then slide the drawer in place. Now place the nightstand next to your bed. where shown.. (The J" screws supplied with the handle are too long.. After the stain dries.. '0 J woodmagazine. to avoid tear-out. Written by Owen Duvall with Jeff Mertz Project design: Kevin Boyle Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine. as shown above. z I_JIQ. Also. Guide screwed to legs ® Use a guide to safely cut dadoes To cut dadoes in case assemblies... sanding to 320 grit between 27 . positioning the strips tight against the top back rail (G). The guide keeps the assembly in continuous contact with the fence throughout the cut.

Sand to at least 150 grit. A thicker tar is available in caulking-style tubes and can be thinned with mineral spirits. use oak scrap sanded with the same procedure as the project. and elegant in their simplicity. a farmer noticed that raw oak planks in a barn had turned rich shades of brown. Minwax natural stain lightens the mixture as desired. the Stickley name frequently pops up in conversation. making certain you get all of the dust out of the pores. According to a history of Stickley furniture. After the wood dries. Add a half-pint of asphalt to one quart of red oak stain. Distilled water works best because it contains no chlorine or impurities. and then raise the grain with a damp cloth. functional. Buy "nonfibered" roofing tar or you will have to strain the fibers out before mixing. His pieces were original. Gustav Stickley (1858-1942) popularized the Arts & Crafts style in America through the widely copied furniture he produced and his magazine. For a darker color. For a lighter look. sparingly add more tar and test frequently. and the methods he developed for coloring wood were sheer genius--even if they were discovered by accident. sand with 180 grit just enough to remove the raised wood fibers.) 28 America's Bes1-Ever Woodworking Projec1s 8< Shop Tips 2006 . To test the stain for color. Blow or brush off the dust and sanding particles. make-il-Iourself hen it comes to the Arts & Crafts or mission-style furniture. (Natural stain mixed with tar by itself makes a light stain. The Craftsman.Combining common stains with a surprise ingredient yields a close copy of traditional Arts Be Crafts finishes. Alan's stain formula uses nonfibered roofing tar-made with pure asphalt-mixed with Minwax red oak stain. add natural stain as a thinner. a 4:1 ratio.

. Stickley used that knowledge to develop an ammonia-fuming process that created a distinctive. yet attractive enough to appeal to professional restorers. The challenge today is to create a userfriendly. that Alan used on a white-oak chair to duplicate an original Stickley medium-light finish . Work up from the bottom so that drips or spills on surfaces below will do no harm. safe-to-make finish that closely matches the Stickley look using materials readily available at hardware stores. The downside is that ammonia fuming poses serious health and safety risks. a professional finisher in Atlanta.. rub lightly with 0000 steel wool. shown below. You'll need a spray gun because brushing on additional stain could reacnvate previous coats and muddy the look. but must be sprayed on if you applied multiple stain coats. created by farm animal wastes. Alan's modern-day match To make certain his mission finish matched todays aged original finishes as accurate as possible. reacted with the tannic acid found naturally in oak. R9d Oak Stain ~Ion-flbered roofing tar Fumed-looking stain Stickley discovered that ammonia fumes. (See samples of comparable shades at right. spray on light coats of the mixture without wiping them off. we turned to Alan Noel. Let the stain stand for 3 to 5 minutes. He shared with us his novel stain mix that's easy enough for a hobbyist. he was happy to help. Alan borrowed examples of authentic Stickley furniture in their original finishes from his next-door neighbor. White Oak Red Oak 1x 2x 3x 4x 5x In a well-ventilated space.) Here's the 5step process. After the topcoat dries. Fortunately. from natural to a dark ebonized finish. For darker finishes like those shown at the far ." Alan says. 6x woodmagazine. "1 knew he had collected several pieces of Stickley furniture and had inherited a few others from his father as well. He recommends that the tirst stain application dry for at least 36 hours before you spray on added layers 01 stain. consistent tint in quartersawn oak. A buffed coat of dark wax completes the finish. One discovery was that Stickley furnishings came in a range of shades.Alan's Mission Formula Shades of the Past These sample boards demonstrate the depth of color you can create by layering up to six coats of Alan's stain. Protect the wood with an oil-based satin varnish-polyurethane in this case-applied using a natural bristle brush or by spraying. then wipe off the excess. Let the stain dry completely before spraying additional coats of stain and topcoating. To meet this challenge. work the asphalt! stain mix into the grain with a soft brush or rag. A clear topcoat can be brushed over a single stain coat.

Adhere the patterns with spray adhesive to the leg blanks. and form the mortises by drilling overlapping holes. Lay out the mortise locations. And if you've been saving a special highly figured board for the light project.lems needed 10 build this project. Make four copies of the leg partial pattern on the page 34. Rout I/H" round-overs on the bottom ends of the legs. adjust the fence to center the legs' thickness on the bit. such as this table. where shown. see page 34. For the board feet of lumber and other i.with uncommon good looks This 22"-diameter table in bird's-eye maple and cherry has all the right stuff: \ ease of construction. ) appealing design. One warning: It'll look so good you won't want to put anything on it. you'll find the top of this table the perfect place to show it off. Bandsaw and sand the legs to shape. Complete the leg layouts as in depicted in Photo A. in just one weekend (plus maybe a couple weekday evening hours to apply the finish). and traditional joinery. where shown on Drawing 1. Chuck a %" brad-point bit in your drill press. 30 America's aest-sver Woodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 . Square the ends of the mortises and smooth the sides with a chisel. t's often that you can make a greatnot looking piece of furniture. I Mortise and bandsaw four shapely legs Cut four leg blanks (A) to the size noted on the Materials List on page 34.

The parts should make a snug fit without having to be forced together. woodmagazine. back the cuts with an auxiliary extension. and then cu t their centered. Then raise the blade. #8 x 13/4" F. With the dado blade still in your 31 .. make test cuts in scrap the same thickness as the stretchers. wood screw Va" round-overs along bottom ends only Cut the stretchers (B.EJ STRETCHERS counterbore '18" deep with a 7/64" pilot hole SIs" deep centered inside (upper stretchers only) 3/4" DLEG 14%" (J EXPLODED VIEW 3/s" mortises 1" deep ® 128" 1/s" round-overs #8 x 13/4" F_H_ wood screw 5/32" . and cut 2"-deep notches in parts C. To prevent chip-out. form the tenons on the ends of the stretchers (B. interlocking notches. "'" '! . where shown on Drawing 2 and as shown in Photo B. countersunk 7/64' pilot hole 3/4' deep Li' L._Jdl.J _J 31/4" L Cut 1"-deep notches in parts B. C). : "'" I' 2" Ii Pattern shank hole. C) to size. 51/8" -"'C_. Form two pairs of interlocking stretchers @ ! ~~_""-"'. rn! T i.H. Before cutting the parts. Verify that the top and bottom edges are flush.

The upper stretcher pair has the desktop fastener counterbores. Here's a circle-sanding jig you can make in no time flat. Position the jig on your disc sander's table with the cleat contacting the table's right-hand corner. Interlock the upper and lower pairs of stretchers (B. and draw the arcs. clamp the legs to the interlocked stretcher pairs. sand the leg-to- stretcher joints smooth. Bend a thin strip of wood to connect each set of three points. Drill the counterbores and centered pilot holes. With a single clamp. Rotate the top aqainst the disc. wood screw 3/4 x 16 x 24" scrap I 3/4 X 3 x 16" cleat 2 shank hole. from a couple pieces of particleboard or plywood. Mark the ends and centers of the stretchers' arcs. First. and then finishsand all parts to 220 grit. countersunk on bottom face '-- #8 x 1 V4' F. and drive the screws. Drill pilot and countersunk shank holes where the parts interlock as shown on Drawing 3.. draw an lI"-radius circle on the blank's bottom face. Bandsaw the top about W' outside the 32 America's Best-Ever Woodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 . Spreading glue in their mortises.. shown in the drawing at right. Fasten the oversize bandsawn top (D) to the jig's base with a #8x1 W' flathead wood screw. C) only. Switch on the sander.H. Bandsaw and sand to the lines. Ease all the edges with a sanding block. Using a compass. With the glue dry. Add the top Edge-join an oversize blank for the top (D). secure the jig's base to the table. wood screw ~.t"'toP. Then follow the three steps shown in the photos. screw together the jig. . mark the centers of the counterbores for the desktop fasteners.H. The top overhangs the edge of the jig's base that faces the sanding disc by about V"'. On the upper stretchers (B. where shown on Drawings 2 and 3. : #8 x 1" F. 1'<. be/ow. countersunk on bottom face Distance from ~ of sander table to the disc minus Va" 5/3 i ~~.wavstomake perfect circles 5/32" 7/64" pilot hole V4' deep drilled on bottom face Disc-sand the workpiece with this qulck-cnd-eosv jig . but about 2" away from its left-hand corner. Keep the jig's base and cleat tight against the sander's table. Pivot the jig until the cleat contacts the sander's table along its full length. C). shank hole.

Now follow the three steps below. Finish-sand the edges and both faces of the top. Because using a straight flute bit may cause tear-out in two quadrants. circle. see page 35. Then stick the top (D) to the blocks with more double-faced tape. Use the procedure that best suits your available power tools. stick three scrap blocks to your workbench with double-faced tape. apply a stain to the legs/stretchers assembly. Rout W' round-overs along the top's upper and lower edges. the router bit. Avoid chatter by using a W'shank bit. drill a 1'64" pilot hole W' deep at the center of the bottom face. woodmagazine. To trim the circle without tear-out in a single pass. Drill a 5/32' countersunk flathead wood screw on the on the trammel's width. To make the trammel. and rout. Plunge the bit into the top's edge. and screw them in place. Screw the router to the particleboard with the bit centered in the hole. (We brushed two coats of satin polyurethane on the legs and stretchers. C). centered To provide clearance for the router 33 . for two quick-and-simple methods for trimming the top to a perfect circle. Raise the bit before switching off the router. To provide a pivot point for trueing the top. Finish and assemble Examine the top and legs/stretchers assembly. Screw the trammel to the center of the bottom face of the top with a #8x1 %" flathead wood screw. on the tramhole for a #8 mark.• •• or try a scrapwood router trammel If you don't have a disc/belt sander. above. 116 Cherry.) For instructions on applying a flawless gloss finish to the top. Measuring from the edge of mark the radius of the circle mel. See the sidebar. trim the circle in a series of V8"-deep cuts. (We used Zar no. Place the desktop fasteners in the counterbores in the top stretchers (B. use a W' upcut spiral flute bit. and resand any areas that need it. top face down. a simple trammel for your plunge router does the trick. drill a 1" hole at one end of a 16"-long piece of 3/4" particleboard that is wide enough to accommodate your router's base.) Apply a clear finish. where shown in the drawing at right. See page 35 for sanding tips. and let it dry. sanding between coats with 220-g1it sandpaper. If you wish.

furniture plans at wDudmagazine. as shown in Photo Cutting Diagram _ .) % X 71/4 x 96" Bird's-eye maple (5. 866·826. I '- 31/4" ---1------------4-1-----' ~ 1/8" round-over Source Hardware. Written by Jan Svec with Chuck Project design: Kevin Boyle Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine. 3/8" brad-point drill bit.-{:herry. #8X5/8" flathead wood screws. ® LEG FULL-SIZE PARTIAL PATTERN (4 needed) Fasten the legs/stretchers assembly to the top. Desktop fasteners no. Blades and bits: Stack dado set..3 bd... Materi als key: (. and drive the screws. See the Instructions. and enjoy your beautiful new occasional table ..19 for a package of 10. ft. $5. #8xW: flathead wood screws. 'Part initially cut oversize. Using the holes in the desktop fasteners as guides. Call Woodworker's Supply.. Hedlund Lorna Johnson 314" 3" 3" 14%" 14'/8" C C EM 2 2 C stretchers D'top ~/4'1 314" 22" diam..--" ~--:. Supplies: Spray adhesive..__ . ft. 800/645·9292 or go to woodworker. V8" round-over router bit.3 bd. EM-«Ige·joined birds-eye maple.a LEG PARTIAL FULL-SIZE PATTERN ------------~---3/s" mortise 1" deep Total length 28" With the top upside down on a pad."'=~ ~.) D 2006 34 America's Best-EverWoodworking Projects & Shop Tips . carry it into the living room... Give your project a final dusting. drill pilot holes in the top.L.' -_-J 8 ~3/4 See more ••• . center the legs/stretchers assembly on it....comllumiture x 71/4 x 96" Cherry (5.__ .

To make polyurethane finish flow out smoothly without brush marks. woodmagazine. 400-. Sand the third coat of finish with 320-. Let the filler dry. and then sand the surface to 220 grit. walnut.corn) . ash. such as the maple shown in this project.500grit sandpaper. and then 600-grit sandpaper. add three tablespoons of paint thinner to one quart of highgloss finish.. Pack the grain by working the filler cross grain with a wide putty knife. and you're ready to apply the finish. Remove the sanding dust. sand the surface to 220 grit. Brush on three coats. For tight-grained woods. Let the finish cure for a 35 . An opengrained wood. Here's how we achieve super-smooth results in the WOOl1 magazine shop. and shining a light across the surface at a low angle. Inspect the surface for flaws by wiping it with thinner. such as the top of the occasional table on page 30. or buy it online at properautocurc. Spray on a fourth coat of gloss polyurethane from an aerosol can. uniformly wetting the whole surface. Make a pad with a soft cotton rag.. sanding with 220grit sandpaper between each coat. Parlay the right products and a little persistence into lustrous results. Nothing shows off a piece of highly figured stock. such as oak. better than a high-gloss finish. and buff the surface to a high sheen with 3M Finesse-it II Finishing Material (available at auto-paint supply stores.four easy steps to a . or mahogany. requires the use of a matching-color paste grain filler. Remove any dust motes with 1. Do not use fastdrying polyurethane.

The bookcase. particularly if you plan to paint the unit. Simply build the basic case in the wood of your choice. you also can use less-expensive materials. For the board feet of lumber and other items needed to build this project. has a fixed shelf and three adjustable shelves to hold loads of books or display items. and then add the traditional. country. cherry and cherry plywood for the Shaker unit. ere's a masterpiece you can build that will showcase your treasured tomes for years to come. We used prirnarily oak and oak plywood for the traditional H ularstvles America's Best-Ever Woodworking Projects . and knotty pine and knottypine plywood for the country look. see page 43. We'll show you how. such as solid poplar with birch plywood.Ih 36 Simply change the wood type and trim details to suit your taste. or Shaker top and bottom trim. But. & Shop Tips 2006 . bookcase. which measures 333/4" wide by 13" deep by approximately 61/2'high.

/~~. and cut a W'-deep groove along the inside face of the stiles.. sag over time. Spray-adhere two copies to the rail. To ensure the 5/ 6"-diameter sleeves stay ' snug in their holes. and then transfer the marks to the opposite edge using a framing square. drill countersunk shank holes centered on the width of the rabbets and dadoes. fixed shelf. The sleeves protect the holes from wear. insert their beveled end in the holes. cut four 1 1/4x71 W' pieces to form the front stiles (B). See the Source on page 43 to buy the paddle supports. Mark near one edge first. the top front rail/base front trim partial pattern on page 43. aligning the marked centerlines with the index mark. Now. 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 c-- -0 ® 7 11/2' 1oW' 3/4' \____ L__c. for more information on the shelf support and sleeve hardware. 0 113 4 /' -I 11/4' - ~\ 1V4' ~ 0 0 0 0 0 19/64' hole 5/.. Another plus: The sleeves hide the hole walls. and tap them in with a hammer.--.==:o:0==1 314"'= / 1/4' deep 5/32 sh~nk holes. sand the sides with nO-grit sandpaper.5/... Use brass paddle supports with mating sleeves.. -:.) Next. adjust the dado set to match your :Y4"-thick stock. sleeves. Step 1. C1:::. and bottom (C) and their accompanying rails (D.6" deep r. cut a V4"-deep dado near the center. cut W'deep rabbets on the inside face of the sides (A) at their ends. countersunk on outside face ~ A case for shelf supports with metal sleeves Ever been frustrated by shelf supports that won't stay in their holes. choose the plywood species that suits your bookcase style. drill 5/16" -deep holes in the sides. F) to size. drill the holes using a 1%4" brad-point bit. where dimensioned on Drawing 4. shown in the photo above. layout the curve on the top front rail (D).com 37 .. --- \__Brass paddle Sleeves support m:J SHELF SUPPORT DETAILS woodmagazine. aligning them with the marked centerline. Cut the top.. and position the fence 11/4" back from the bit's center. E. where shown on Drawing 1. where shown on o SIDE (Inside face shown) r-1%" (. glue and clamp the stiles to the front edge of the sides. Then. as shown in Photo A. r - r" 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 r- o 3/4' rabbet W'deep~ o 0 \-1-- 19/64' hole . For a Shaker bookcase. make four copies of Drawing 11. where shown on Drawing 2. Now. chuck a 19/64" brad-point bit in your drill press. and bit.-. and holes that are swollen by moisture or drilled slightly undersize to resist loosening cause the third problem. cut a :W' rabbet W' deep along the back face of the stiles. Then._~. Make an index mark on the fence centered with the bit. 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 423/4' With the marked centerlines on the tape aligned with the drill-press fence's index mark. band saw and sand the rail to shape. To drill the 10/64" holes on the inside face of the sides (A) for the adjustable shelf paddle-support sleeves. where dimensioned. or require pliers to remove? Holes that are worn or drilled slightly oversize to prevent binding cause the first two problems. Then. where dimensioned on Drawings 1 and ta. When the glue dries.6" deep -_. Next. As explained in the Materials key. right.__ '. To install the sleeves. Using a dado-blade set adjusted to the thickness of your %" plywood. From%"-thick stock. For a country bookcase.. and they provide a consistent fit with the supports so they're always easy to insert and remove. on the outside face of the sides. to receive the sides (A).build a case Cut the sides (A) to the size listed in the Materials List. first mark centerlines for the holes on masking tape along the sides' inside faces. particularly in plywood. Using the same dado-blade stack as before. Here's a simple way to prevent these irritations. which can be unsightly. drill '%4" holes 5/16"-deep in the sides (A). where shown on Drawing 2. Laminate the pieces to make a pair of 1W'thick stiles.... (See the sidebar. draw a centerline across the width of the top front rail (D). Then.First. Step 2. where shown on Drawing 3.=~.

Now. to the side and remove the patterns. Then. Then.-. position the back on the case. To avoid glue squeeze-out when mounting these parts. and bottom 11/4".H. where shown on Drawing 3. Step 1 Cut the rabbet.' K o 5/32" shank hole. ® 1 ®. keepI ing the rails' and panels' ends flush and ywood. Position the top panel's best __J V: face down and the fixed shelf and bottom panels' best face up. where shown on Drawing 3. complete the case Cut the top side rails (G). Glue and clamp the top side rails (G) and bottom side rails (H) to the sides (A). as shown in Photo B. bandsaw and sand the rail to shape. Cut the W' plywood back (1) to size.Drawing 5. Glue and clamp the back stiles (I) to the sides (A). 3/4" groove W):j_eep. sand the assemblies until smooth. For a country bookcase. Check the case for square. fixed shelf. wood screw glue and clamp the middle side rails (H) to the sides. CIE. flush with their top and bottom edges. and bottom assemblies (CfD.. long. and glue the stile Now. Sand the shelves smooth. middle and bottom side rails (H). opposite.14" long. E.) Set aside the remaining copies. For traditional and 0· .:1~V:~2':'::' ===t__JBack face Glue and clamp the top. cut after part @ is glued to part ® #6 x 3/4' F. drill pilot holes using the shank holes as guides.H. flush with their ends and top faces. 0. glue and clamp the trim to the shelves. Sand the parts smooth.'-wide grooves in the front stiles (B). 71W see the Shop Tip. cut the upper filler (K) 39:. flush with their ends and tight against the side rails (G. The stiles overhang the sides' back edges by 1/4". fixed3/4' rabbet shelf. trim shown) and clamping the side assemblies (AlB) to the top.. wood screw ) Now. ~t~~~~fh Size to match thickness of 3/4' stock for parts and ® CD. L) to size to fit the ¥!.~ --. (] EXPLODED VIEW Assemble the case (Bookcase with traditional by gluing.H. and bottom front rails (D. H). cut the upper filler (K) 38Y2" clamp the fillers in place. screwing. when the glue dries. W deep (C). and back stiles (I) to size. Jj_ Step 2 Cut a groove in the stile/side assembly. 38 America's Best-Ever Woodworking & Shop Tips 2006 . . When the glue dries. countersunk on bottom side 26" ) i~ #8 x 1 V4' F. drill countersunk shank holes.. on the rear of the back. Cut the upper and lower fillers (K. fixed shelf. (You'll need to trim one FRONT STILE DETAIL TOP VIEW copy and flip it over to complete the contour.. wood screw l Projects Shaker bookcases. and drive the screws. CIF). where shown on Drawing 3. i =. - -~ ~ B ~1~11/4" I 393/. #8 x 1W F. Then. F) to the top. Glue and Cut the adjustable shelves (M) and shelf trim (N) to size. the rails' top edge even with the panels' -~ top face. E1 r r:==.

For a traditional bookcase. Then..4" cove.. rout a W' chamfer. Cut VB" grooves 1/s" deep 1/s" from a part's edges o iii. 1 1" TOP FRONT RAIL@ AND BASE FRONT TRIM ® 1/4" round-over f-----17%" Full-size patter~ 7·. where shown above. cut a 5x65" workpiece from 3J4"-thick stock.1 !------_-----------!_1 1-------133/8"-------\ BASE SIDE TRIM @ 1 5" woodmagazine. B SHAKER TOP FRONT RAIL AND BASE TRIM I1J COUNTRY TOP FRONT RAIL AND BASE TRIM V4" round-over . rout the applicable profile along an edge of the workpiece. Using 213f4"-long spacers to position the middle side rail (H) above the bottom side rail. and clamp the part in place. ~TOP SECTION VIEW Add the base Cut the bottom panel (0) to size..··· · · I Full-Size pattern reversed @ __J) 15/8" TOP FRONT RAIL@ AND BASE FRONTTRIM® 1/4' chamfer ~ f------1331a" BASE SIDE TRIM --------1. Here's a simple way to avoid the pro'blem.. its glue surface. resulting in a blotchy finish. rout a '.. rout a 1. If you leave the slightest residue. preventing it from oozing beyond the part's edges. The grooves willi capture the excess glue. to form the front trim (P) and side trim (Q). it can seal the woodl and block stain penetration. Then. glue and clamp the rail to the side (A).SHOPTIP8 A "groovy" way to put the squeeze on glue squeeze-out Removing excess glue when assembling parts is messy Va" groove Va" deep 1/8" from edge and 39 . Next.. where shown on Drawing 6. apply glue to the area 'between the grooves. For a Shaker bookcase. For a country bookcase.4" round-over where shown on Drawing 4... where shown on Drawing 5.

where shown. set the bookcase on its back on your workbench. W. as laid out on the Cutting Diagram. or country top to the bookcase. For a country bookcase. cutting just outside the lines. Q). Drill countersunk mounting holes through the bottom panel (0) and W' into the bottom (C). With glue applied in the biscuit slots. lip the cove blank to a width of Ys". (The cove blank is extra wide for safety when routing. For a shaker bookcase. and add a traditional. and drive the screws. as shown in Photo C. Then. lay out the contour on the front and side trim (P.] For a traditional base. where dimensioned on Drawing 6. glue and clamp it to the panel. where shown on Drawing 5. and clamp the assembly together. where dimensioned on Drawing 4. where shown on Drawings 3 and 6. 40 America's Best-Ever Woodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 . countersunk on bottom side Miter-cut the trim (P. plunge the slots in the mitered ends. reposition the fence to offset the slot \/s" from the trim's inside face to ensure the slot cutter does not go through the outside face. and corner blocks (R) with #20 biscuits. where shown on Drawing 6. trim (P. Then. Position and clamp the base assembly (O/P/Q/R) tight against the bookcase's bottom. Now. Glue and clamp the blanks together in the arrangement shown on Drawings 7 and 7a. sand the assembly smooth. Q). cap. Now. maintain a continuous grain flow across the trim pieces. layout the curve on the front and side trim (P.) Rout a 1/4" chamfer along an edge of the cap blank (W) and a 1/2" cove along an edge of the cove blank (X). Assemble the bicsuited bottom panel. When the glue dries. where shown on Drawing 7. To form the top trim assembly. and cove blanks (V. except cut the cove blank (X) to a width of I W'. miter-cut the front and side edging (T. as you did for the top front rail (D). X) to the listed sizes. trim. and comer blocks. Q). Layout the applicable contour on the trim. select the instructions from one of the three following sections. For these. Using a helper. cut the band. Shaker. Mark centerlines for #20 biscuits on the bottom panel (0). angle-cutting one end. trim (P. For the best appearance. Q) to length to fit the bottom panel. Cut the corner blocks (R) to size. position your biscuitjoiner fence to center the slot cutter on the thickness of the bottom pane1. and corner blocks (R).) BASE (Traditional-style trim shown) 5/32" shank hole. assemble the bottom panel (0). and then sand to the lines.[. where dimensioned on Drawing 6. Now. [The country base's side trim (Q) does not have a contour. Bandsaw the front trim to shape. U) to length to fit the panel. adhere the remaining two copies of the base front trim pattern to the front trim (P). After the glue dries. glue and clamp the edging to the panel. Using a 121/4'-wide scrap spacer to position the front trim 01fWIX) from the back edge of the top panel (8) and centering the assembly side to side. miter-cut the assembly (V IW IX) so the back (short) edge measures 121/4" for the sides and 321/4" for the front. Q). Now. Plunge all of the slots except the ones in the trim's mitered ends. Add a traditional top Cut the plywood top panel (S) to size. flush with the back and centered side to side.

glue the front molding to the top front rail (D) and the side molding to the top side rails (G).%" Chamferf 13/4' r-+--=--. Then. flush with the back and centered side to side. miter-cut the front and side edging (AA. position and clamp the top panel/trim assembly (S through X) tight against the bookcase's top. leaving 1. where shown on Drawings 3 and 9. cut the dadoes 1/8" deep. To form the front and side denti I molding (Y. Sand the bevels smooth. Z). BB) to length to fit the panel. D DENTIL l:l SHAKER TOP MOLDING DETAIL V4' for part G) 'Is"forpart@ 5/32" shank hole.4" apart along the length of the workpiece.H. bevelrip the edging. where shown on Drawings 3 and 7. shown on Drawings 3 and 3a. Glue and clamp the side trim pieces in place. cut a 3/4x54" workpiece from V4"-thick oak. as shown in Photo D. woodmagazine.H. cutting the side edging first and then the front edging. With the bookcase on its back. Now. tight against the top-panel edging (T.4"-wide recesses at the ends of the front dentil molding (Y) and 1/8"wide recesses at the ends of the side dentil molding (Z).com 41 . where shown.''' J. position and clamp the top panel/trim assembly (S/AAIBB) tight against the bookcase's top. using a tall auxiliary fence attached to your rip fence for support. and drive the screws. With the bookcase on its back. Now. wood screw f2!JSIDE SECTION DETAIL '1 I Mitered ~ ~ / ends . where shown on Drawing 9. where shown on Drawing 3. glue and clamp the edging to the panel. wood screw ~(13. where dimensioned on Drawing 8. Drill mounting holes through the top panel (S) and into the top (C). flush with the back and centered side to side. #8 x 1'14" F. U). Mark the locations for V4" dadoes spaced 3. Tilt your tablesaw's blade to 17° from vertical. using a dado blade. countersunk r~ ! yl #8x 1'14" F. and drive the screws.U-~ r-t Vs'jj_ ~ 4 I/~ I '14"dadoes 1/s" deep SIDE SECTION DETAILS Glue the front trim piece to the top panel (S). Cut the molding to the listed lengths. where dimensioned on Drawing 9a. Now. Drill mounting holes through the top panel (S) and into the top (C).III TRADITIONAL TOP. Now. Add a Shaker top Cut the plywood top panel (S) to size.

) @~ ~=""J=d i . ft. glue and clamp the bands to the panel. or knotty pine (5. (We used architectural pine wood molding no. FF).7 bd. Now. miter-cut the front and side bands (CC. Then. ft. rout a W' chamfer along an edge of the workpiece. ft.) i----- 3/4 X 51/2 x 96" Knotty pine (4 bd.) 'Plane or resaw to the thicknesses listed in the Materials List.. cherry.7 bd.3 bd. cherry. or knotty-pine plywood 3/4 x 48 x 48" Birch plywood 42 America's Best-Ever Woodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 . From ·V4"-thick knotty pine. cherry. HH) to the lengths listed. cherry. cherry. where shown on Drawings 10 and 10a.7 bd.: 3/4 X 5'/2 X 96" Oak. or knotty-pine plywood I ® i@ I '/4 x 48 x 96" Oak. or knotty pine (2. glue and clamp the caps in place. Miter-cut the caps to length to fit on top of the bands (CC.) pGG) @ r @ I I !© i @ I 9/'6 X 21/4 x 72" Pine crown molding m © ® ® 3/4 © Add a country top Cut the plywood top panel (5) to size.§aker TOP_ 3/4 X I .) ------ID. DD).~ 3/4 X 71/4 X 96" Oak. DD) to length to fit the panel.3 bd. ft. Now. or knotty pine (5.~SIDE SECTION DETAIL [[!] COUNTRY TOP Cutting Diagram ~[@ e ~ '§):J 3/4 X 91/4 x 96" Oak (6.) 3'/2 x 96" Cherry (2. Then. 3/4 X 31/2 X 96" Oak. Cut the front and side crown molding (GG. keeping their back edge flush with the bands' back face.) 3/4 X 71/4 X 96" Oak. ft. ft. 1 x 48 x 96" Oak. where shown. cherry. ft. or knotty pine (4 bd. cut a 2 /2X72" workpiece to form the front and side caps (EE.

19. #6x3f4'.." 0 2 2W' 0 0 0 0 Blade-sand bits: Dado·blade set... Materials key: CP-choose plywood species. For items CP. $3.. part -." 1/4' '. A B C D E F H sides front stiles top. Finish the bookcase as you wish. ---. ttFor traditional and Shaker bookcases. and remove the dust. available at horne centers..) Then. Finally. KP-knotty pine..) Then. See the instructions. use oak for the traditional bookcase.---~ ---. glue the molding to the bands (CC.. 2 Drill bit. O-oak. After the stain dried... For country 1/4" and W' cove router bits. BP-birch plywood.. no. width of part D is 41/4'." 13'1.I.-.. and bottom top front rail fixed-shelf front rail bottom front rail middle and bottom side rails back stiles 113/. 07J02.-- - ------j- I ---- -- -------- I / ~ From h~re. no. we applied Minwax OilBased Wood Finish. Now.-." 72" 72' 72" 31V.. we first applied Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner to help the knotty pine absorb the stain evenly._. '9164' brad-point drill bit. #20 biscuits.1.. with your 43 . For country bookcase. length of part K is 393/4".00 for package of 20 (5 packages). P-pine. 63Z06. Lorna Johnson 1 1/2' 3/..m - PARTIAL GRIDDED PATTERN --. DD) and caps (EE.~~-~ --------1-------- I~ 3/11 i-!1 <.-_ ~ One squaree t" or enlarge 200%.. CL. For the Shaker first) for the paddle supports in all of the holes in the sides (A).. we finished with two coats of Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane. Brass paddle supports. For the traditional bookcase: chamfer. 114 Provincial and two coats of AquaZAR Water-Based Clear Satin Polyurethane. no. . width of part D is 3".04. place the bookcase where you wish.70.1 -------- r--. or go to leevalley. 218 Puritan Pine. For the country bookcase: chamler router bit.. For the Shaker bookcase: '/4" round-over router bit... brass sleeves.1----------j-------I /_ ---------------- ~ -~ _--------~---.. F or the country bookcase. sanding to 320 grit between coats. length of part K is 381/2'. For the traditional bookcase." Cham1fer along tiP edge 0. install the sleeves (beveled end . 63Z06.. 3it" T U V front edging side edging band blank c/. Then. fixed shelf. I -j I -- .25 for package of 20 (1 package)... Lee Valley-phone and Web address above.8" 37" 145/8' G top side rails 1/2' 3. --- --- TOP FRONT RAIL@/BASE FRONT PARTIAL PATTERN FOR COUNTRY BOOKCASE (4 needed) TRIM@ Align with center of parts@and @.V-----®-- -------- . (We kept the wood wet until it stopped soaking in the conditioner before wiping off the excess." 71'/.. '0/8" VI" iA' 3/4' 10" 0 woodmagazine. and install the paddle supports and shelves (MIN). we omitted a stain and applied two coats of DEFT Satin Lacquer Clear Wood Finish. Supplies: Spray adhesive. cherry for the Shaker bookcase. WM54. and #8x1 V2' flathead wood screws. start filling this lofty library with your favorite books ." 341// VII '/4 'V<" '''/ 0(. CL-choose laminated solid stock species. and CS.III t 3/4" 2" 3" 341/2' 2" 2W' 21/. no. FF).11 /2 2W' ':1'6" KP KP KP KP P P 2 2 2 3/. and knotty pine for the country bookcase. sanding to 220 grit between coats.-l 1/. C-cherry. 19i64" brad-point drill bit....06. Call Lee Valley 800/871-8158." 323/i' 71 i// GG front crown molding HH side crown molding 21/4' K L M upper fillers lower fillers tt 3/4' 103/4' 26' 311/s" 'Parts initially cut oversize. #8x11/4'. $5... sanding to 320 grit between coats. part extends 1S1s". _@ l __r-I I ... where shown. tFor traditional and Shaker bookcases.• Wntten by Owen Duvall with Chuck Hedlund Project design: Jeff Mertz Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine....t--. and part @ extends 3".. W cap blank X' cove blank y' front dentil molding Z' side dentil molding Source Hardware.. . $5. we applied ZAR Oil-Based Stain no. CS-choose solid stock species. .."" 4" ---~-10" 1:." 3 CC front band DD side bands 10' CS CS CS CP CS CS 2 2 4 2 EE' front cap FF' side caps ~/." 133/8" 38' 151.-- -------- -------- -------~ .' 11/4' 11V" 711/2' 711/2' CP CL 2 Finish up Sand any areas that need it with 220-grit sandpaper.

flush with the back (D) and centered side-to-side on the sub top and bottom. you don't have to buy an expensive special-size Forstner bit to bore an opening for the movement. listed in the Materials List. has just eight parts and no complex joinery. as shown in Photo C. clamp. Then.) On the face. drill. (The added !/4" thickness of the backer ensures the clock movement securely engages the face. separating it into four pieces. Then. crosscut four %"-long capitals from the piece.Glue the mirror-image pair of face/backer pieces (AlB)to each side (C). And. When the glue dries. Glue the capitals to the sides (C) and sub top and bottom (E). accented with basic edge profiles and a four-segment bird's-eye maple face. Rip and crosscut the face/backer assembly (AlB) at the marked kerf locations. mark the locations for the I/s" saw kerfs and draw a circle with a 19/16" radius. cut the arc on each piece by bandsawing and sanding to the line. inserting Va" spacers between the assemblies to keep them square. Now. Then. Cut the sub top and bottom (E) to size. keeping their edges and ends aligned. W Build the case Cut the face (A) and backer (B) to the sizes . glue and clamp the assemblies to the back (D). Drill pilot holes. hen WOOD® magazine senior design editor Kevin Boyle was asked to create an easy-to-make. cut a 7/sxlO" workpiece for the capitals (G). you need only a tablesaw. a statelv. and sand smooth. Glue and clamp the face/backer pieces (AlB) to the sides (C). as shown in Photo B. 44 America's Best-EverWoodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 . Mark centerpoints on the pieces for countersunk shank holes. 'Rout a W' cove along the ends and one edge of each piece. Jlel simple Glue the side assemblies (AiB/C) to the back (D). as shown in Photo A. aligning the pieces with the side's ends and front edge. classical-style clock. where shown on Drawing 2. glue the backer to the face's back. he delivered-big time! His novel design. and drive the screws. Then. and bottom (F) in place. making sure you have mirror-image assemblies. Rout a W' cove along an edge of the workpiece. and screw the pieces to the clock case. Cut the top and bottom (F) to size. Cut the sides (C) and back (D) to size. and bandsaw or jigsaw to complete it. where dimensioned on Drawing 2a. position. and drill the holes. Better yet. where dimensioned on Drawing 1. router. Rout a W' round-over along the ends and one edge of each piece. From Y2"-thick stock. Apply glue to the sub top and bottom (E). and sand. sand the assemblies to 220 grit. Clamp the top Center the sub top and bottom (E) side-toside on the clock case.

Supplies: #6x1' flathead wood screws (10).95 for each additional movement. ' .H.-\. apply two coats of a clear finish. *@ I '® I '@ 1 '@ . . Cutting Diagram Source Lorna Johnson 7 I maple (.com 45 . CQ_ © . Add $6. '. ft.~~. Clock no..) *Plane or resaw to the thicknesses listed in the Materials LISt. crosscut two pillars to length to fit snugly between the capitals (G). countersunk on bottom face #6 x 1" F. See the instructions.. Rout a pair of Y4" coves on the workpiece. Finally. and remove the dust.) Install a I. where shown.. sanding to 220 grit between coats. wood screw ) From J!2"-thick stock... $11.90 ppd.SV AA battery in the clock movement. Finally. ~ 'Parts initially cut oversize. Then. '/4' cove and Y/ round-over router bits.5V AA battery. A face B backer C sides 0 back E sub top and bottom F top and bottom G' capitals H' pillars Materials 3//' W' 3/.) *(Gl 'I'f' 3/4 X 5'/2 X 12" Bird's-eye Illustrations: Mike Mittermeier.5 bd. C-cherry. Call Schlabaugh and Sons Woodworking. glue the pillars to the sides (C).._~*. woodmagazine.~".com. or go to schsons. 200260.~ SCREW LOCATION DETAIL 1/4' round-over f) EXPLODED VIEW Front Clock @ 55/8" Location of ® and ® Location of @ D FACE/BACKER 4%" LAYOUT 9/64'shank hole. C 0 3/4 *J:!< Clock m. . cut a %xlO" workpiece for the pillars (H). and press the movement into the face. ~lf'---'@ ~ " . Written by Owen Duvall Project design: Kevin Boyle 1/2' 3/'1 /8 '/2' 1// key: BM-bird's-eye 45/~" L_I~ -L__~~ . ft." 4'14" 3" 33/8" ?/a" 3/411 55/8' 55/a" 55/a" 55/8' 61/2' 71/a" 3/4'1 BM C C C C C C C 4 2 ®/® Now finish up Finish-sand any areas that need it." 1/211 4'14" 4V4' 13/. take a few moments to enjoy your handiwork . Then. maple. (We used ZAR SemiGloss Polyurethane.I X 51/2 x 48" Cherry (2 bd. Blades and bits. set the time.ovement. 1. 800/346-9663.

Frame-and-panel construction with contrasting woods lends good looks to roomy storage. 46 Americo's Best-EverWoodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 .

wood screws ~ CLEAT NOTCH DETAIL woodmagazine. front/back bottom rails (F).H. From 8/4 walnut. with groove-and-tenon joints you cut with only a tablesaw. To form the W'-thick side panels (J) and front!back panels (K). Cut aW' notch in both ends of the side cleats (H). You'll find the construction of this piece strictly straightforward. cut the side top rails (B). slIl'jiICqIf ('If the slime titue all tuateriu!s require the same [inished thickness. countersunk I] EXPLODED VIEW /~ Veneer lamination lines centered on outside face of each panel . planed to 1" thick. or toys will never have a more beautiful home. family keepsakes.cleats Note: Eru: the best jilling )/0111' II/ joints. where shown on Drawing 1a. -- . countersunk 5/32" shank hole. where shown on Drawing 1. handsome project that won't overtax your woodworking skills? Here's one. first cut 5/32' shank hole. stiles (D). and top cleats (I) to the sizes listed.ooking for a functional. front! back cleats (G).14" radius on the ends of the top cleats (1).com 47 . side cleats (H). Then rout a \Is" round-over on the outer edges of the cleats. and it makes a wonderful storage or hope chest. l Start with the carcase parts and top. front!back top rails (E). Layout and cut a 3. From 5/4 walnut. You also can make the legs by laminating three ¥4"-thick boards and surface-planing to the listed dimensions.. !----- : #8 x 1'12" F. Blankets. cut the legs (A) to the size listed in the Materials List and set aside. side bottom rails (C).

turn the piece around. turn it over.. Using a scrap that is the same thickness as the rails and stiles. Now.® 3" Tenon width must match thickness of laminated panels. and the tenons of the rails. follow Cut the tenons on the rails and stiles using a stopblock.J LEG FULL-SIZE PATTERN g GROOVE-ANDWidth of grooves must match width of laminated panels. ElLEG '. Test-fit the tenon in the leg groove. to receive the panels and stile tenons.~ LEG FULL-SIZE (4 needed) ---.[. until you get the proper fit of the tenon. install a Ys" dado blade in your tablesaw. Refer to the Shop Tip. cut the tenons on the ends of all of the rails. You'll want the best face of each panel facing the outside of the chest. . Determine which panels-when placed side by side-offer the best overall look. and front/back bottom rails (F). (You'll need to double the quantity in the Materials List. Then.) For the best appearance. band saw the arches and sand to remove saw marks. frontlback top rails (E). as necessary. side bottom rails (C).~ ffil Paper pattern and W' hardboard template for marking the leg profile ©. Begin by attaching an auxiliary fence to your tablesaw miter gauge to avoid chip-out. as necessary.-. TENON JOINERY 15V4" for part 39W' for part ® ®---1 I 20'12" 20'12" ® . Then. cut the two grooves in each leg blank. cut the grooves in the rails where shown. Then. 48 America's Best-Ever Woodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 . opposite. Layout the arch in the side bottom rails (C) and front/back bottom rails (F). and which can be joined back to back. as shown in Photo A. Test-fit a panel in the groove. Using a scrap the same thickness as the legs for a test cut. position your tablesaw fence so that the dado blade will cut a groove that is just shy of being centered in the scrap. stiles (D). Machine the details on the carcase parts To cut the grooves in the legs (A) to receive the side panels (1). Adjust it to cut 1/12" deeper than the Vs" depth shown on Drawing 2 to allow for glue squeeze-out and to ensure that the rai I tenons do not bottom out in the grooves. until the panel fits in the groove. and also attach a stopblock to the fence._ -----. Now. as shown. where shown on Drawings 4 and 5. PATTERN 3" ~. where shown on Drawing 3. Then." from the side of the blade. Adjust the blade height and test-cut. the same process that you used for adjusting the fence position for the legs (A) except use a scrap that is the same thickness as the rails for your test piece. Adjust the fence and repeat the test cut. Make the cut. cut one end of the piece.. cut the panels so the veneer lamination line will be in the center of each panel. \I4"-thick cherry plywood to the sizes listed. front/back panels (K). where shown on Drawing 1. F) and stiles (D). to ensure a consistent tenon length. C. E. To cut the grooves in the side top rails (B). and make another cut to widen the groove. glue and clamp the panel sets back to back. where shown on Drawing 3. Adjust the height of your Vs" dado blade to 1/4" and set the stopblock 3/. and cut it again to form a tenon. form the %"-long tenons on the ends of the rails (B.

An easy way to layout smooth arches Mark arches of nearly any length N curvature using this simple method. adhere the pattern to a piece of W' hardboard to make a template. glue up and clamp each side-panel assembly. Then. Rip a 1/s"-thick fainilng strip of wood. On a t1at surface. Cut the strips slightly proud of 3/s" thick.and back-panel assemblies to form the chest. When the glue is dry. of each P"" .SI rai side bottom rails (C). Clamp three stopblocks to the workpiece. See Drawing 5. referencing Drawings 1 and 6. position it between the blocks. and rout the three outer edges and aJi bottom edges of the legs (A). two at the ends of the arch and one at its middle (this block should come to a point) as shown. layout the curves on each leg. See Drawing 4. . stiles (D). Glue and clamp the filler strips (L) in the legs (A). (The curves are on the two sides with the grooves. \ ]" ~ \ 1\ © 1 ~-Il' " Veneer lamination line centered 00 outside fa" ~ 15 . and mark the arch. and front/back panels (K). Then. Check for square. measure 13. Va" round-overs along all bottom edges Complete the legs Cut the fi ller strips (L). Chuck a W' round-over bit in your router. and side panels (J). where shown on Drawing 4. Then. With the cleats correctly positioned on the 49 . To keep the stiles evenly spaced. glue up and clamp.) Bandsaw and sand the curves to the layout lines. To form the front and back panel assemblies. woodmagazine. To form each side of the chest first dryassem bl e t h e Iegs (A)·d e top '·1 s (B) . which fill the bottom of the grooves in the legs (A). Cut and sand the hardboard to the pattem line. then. Check for square.C SIDE PANEL (Outside face shown) ® r. you must center the frontlback cleats (G) on the rails. where shown in the drawings. glue and clamp the end-panel assemblies to the front. dry-assemble the stiles (D). use masking tape to mark their locations on the face of the rails. first make a photocopy of the leg full-size pattern Drawing 6. Check for correct fit and for square. where shown on Drawings 1 and 7. Then./. Let the assembly begin Uncl amp and sand all the panel assemblies. using spray adhesive. the front/back bottom rails (F). Because the front/back cleats (G) fit between the side cleats (H) when the panel assemblies are joined together. Va" roundovers Panels are larninated from two thicknesses of W' plywood. where shown on Drawing 2. attach the cleats to the rails with glue and #8x I W' flathead wood screws. Using the template. the front/back top rails (E). place each assembly outside face down and. To cut the curves in the bottom of the legs (A).4"down from the top edge of the side bottom rails (C) and front/back bottom rails (F) for the location of the top edge of the side cleats (H) and frontlback cleats (G). drill pilot and countersunk shank holes through the cleats into the rails. sand the strips flush with the legs.

counterbore the screw holes in the cleat as shown. Attach the bottom to the cleats with #8x I Y2" flathead wood screws.4"-thick random-width walnut boards for the top (P). Place the bottom (M) on the cleats and drill pilot and countersunk shank holes From }4"-thick walnut. Then. where shown on Drawings 1 and 7. where shown on Drawings 1 and 7a. and attach the hinges to the top with #SxW' flathead wood screws. Mark the locations for the hinge screws in the small leaf of the hinge. so that the outer edge of the trim overhangs the legs (A) by 3/s". keeping it as flat as possible. Then. With the top (P) face down. To locate the hinge positions on the back top trim (N) of the chest. then glue and clamp them to form the top. where shown on Drawing 1. Remove the cleats. Remove any squeeze-out. cut the bottom (M) to the size listed. So. cup.4" cove bit in your tablemounted router and rout a 1/4" cove along the outer bottom edge of all of the tri m pieces (N. With the SHOP TIP 10 . position the front! Attach the lid To locate the positions for the no-mortise hinges. move the jig and hinge to the left end of the top. when you screw cleats to solid panels. or split. for set-up. Low-tech 'rick gives solid-wood panels room to move There's no getting around it: wood contracts and expands with changes iln seasonal humidity. Place a hinge in the opening in the center of the jig with the barrel up (to keep the hinge tlat for marking) and against the jig. 0) into the rails (B.~"round-over bit. Never 9'lue cleats to wide. Chuck a J. cut the front! back top trim (N) and side top trim (0) to the sizes listed except make the lengths I" longer to allow for the ends to be mitercut later. To allow for expansion and contraction of the top. where shown on Drawing 1. Switch to an v. solid-wood panels. - 50 America's Best-Ever Woodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 . Cut the boards so that when placed edge to edge they exceed the top's finished width and length by I".:~"ound-over bit. below left.]. where shown on Drawing 1 b. opposite. and drill pilot and countersunk shank holes through the cleats into the top for #8xl W' flathead wood screws. cut the top (P) to the size listed. Now. screw (no glue) the cleats to the top. Drill pilot holes in the marked locations. flush with the edge of the top. and rout the perimeter of the top on its face side. see Photo S. drill a 3/s" counterbore Ys" deep in the bottom of the cleats in the two outer screw holes. wood screw From 3/4" cherry plywood. where shown on Drawing 1 and 7a. E). Now add the trim #8 x 1W' brass F. drive the #8x 11/2" brass flathead wood screws. and rout the perimeter of the top (P) on its bottom side.H. wide panels of solid wood will bow. Then form the 3/x" notch in the corners. and rout r the top outer edge of all of the pieces. That allows the screw to move back and lorth as the panel moves. position the jig on the back edge of the top (as viewed from the back) flush with its right end. Sand smooth. shown on Drawing 8. Set up your router with a 1/2" round-over bit. 0). Then. Time to top it off Cut enough . and again mark the screw hole locations in the hinge. . Drill pilot and countersunk shank holes through the front/back and side trim (N. Glue and clamp the trim in place.D SIDE SECTION VIEW @ Flap stay back top trim(N) and side top trim (0) on the chest. If you don't allow for that movement. (See the Shop Tip. Miter-cut all of the trim pieces to the finished length. Joint the edges of the boards. switch to a I. m LID SECTION DETAIL 1/s" round- through the cleats into the bottom. When the glue is dry. first make the hinge locating jig. where shown on Drawings 1 and 7a. Position the cleats (1) on the bottom face of the top (P). where shown. where shown on Drawing 7a.) Now.

glue. mark the screw locations on the trim.. ft. EIN-edge-joined walnut. 51 . Because multiple coats of satin polyurethane have a potential to cloud the finish. $2.=====:=~ x 24 x 48" Cherry plywood 13/4 x 51/2 x 48" Walnut (4 bd.' cherry plywood. Photographs: Douglas E. Order from Lee Valley. Attach the flap stay to the block and to the top (P).com. clear finish.01. For the top. NY 13669.6 x 91/4 x 96" Walnut (13. where shown on Drawing 7.• Written by Owen Duvall Project design: Kent Welsh Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine. we recommend that you first apply A legs B side top rails C side bottom rails D stiles E front/back top rails F front/back bottom rails 13k' 1" 1" 1" 1" 1" 1" 1" 1" iI/ 1/2' 3/8" ¥4" Sf/' 3/4" 3/4" '/. 3/4 X 51/2 x 96" Walnut (4 bd.) woodmagazine. . To install the flap stay.thick walnut to the size listed. 3xl" no-mortise hinges no.rq 11/. where shown. secure the block by driving a screw in the center into a pilot hole.. or go to leevalley. two coats of high-gloss polyurethane followed by a final emit of satin polyurethane. 'Materials key: IN-walnut. . LCP-Iaminated 1/. 00U06. flap stay no. CP-cherry plywood.) ! Ji9 EBEBEfWC1 M I 1'1'16 X 71/4 x 96" Walnut (10. for the chest portion to highlight the grain and enhance the colors of the woods.3 bd.F@. install the additional flap stay.) Then glue and clamp the block to the side top rail (B). However. such as Watco Danish Oil. f Source Hardware. Install the hardware and fill the chest with cherished belonings . When the glue is dry. ft.. Attach the hinges to the trim with #5xS/s" flathead wood screws in pilot holes. 1/4' hardboard. cut the filler block (Q) (or two blocks if you want to install a second flap stay) from 1/2" .04.flap stay and found this to be adequate. (We installed one 3/4 X 3f4 x 13" stock Remove the flap stay and hinges.. #5x5/s" flathead wood screws.40 per stay.J0/t5J Lh=1 @~.7 bd. ft. ~. . by driving screws into pilot holes. $13. top (P) positioned as shown and the top centered end-to-end with the chest. if you prefer additional resistance to lid closure for safety reasons. 12 East River St. spray adhesive. ft. Position the top (P) as shown. we recommend a Zar polyurethane finish to provide more durable protection for this piece. #8xl 1/2' brass flathead wood screws. ft.) Cutting Diagram II i®l® 3f4 X 5'/2 x 96" Walnut (4 bd.. ® [] HINGE-LOCATING JIG SUpplies: #8xl 1/2' flathead wood screws. Sand and remove dust between all coats. . See the instructions. Smith Lorna Johnson Sand and finish it up To locate the hinge positions on the back top trim (N).) (5/4 stock planed to 1" thick. 00H51.6" V/ 151/4' 2V4' 2V4' 20" 21/4' 201/2' 151/4' 151/4" 12"' 391/4' 391/4 3N4" 15'/t 131/2' 11'5116" 1115/16" 3" 39W 42~~!! 18~!4' 44" U4" IN IN IN IN IN IN W IN W LCP LCP IN CP IN IN EW IN 4 2 2 8 2 2 2 2 3 4 8 8 2 2 G front/back cleats H side cleats I top cleats J side panels K front/back panels L' filler strips M bottom N' front/back top trim O' side top trim 3 x 1" no-mortise hinge P'top Q filler block 'Parts initially cut oversize. We suggest using a penetrating oil.) (2 needed) .) (5/4 stock planed to 1" thick. Finish-sand the entire chest with 220grit sandpaper.. sanding between coats and removing dust with a tack cloth.60 per pair.) 3/4 f®7 4ft' 'Plane or resaw to thicknesses listed in the Materials List. Apply a clear finish of your choice.' 114' 2V4' 4" 2W' 2W' 4" 1" 1" 1" 6'1/'6" 87/. set the chest on 1 W'-high support blocks (we used 2x4s). call 800/871-8158.

ress up a child's bedroom or playroom with anyone or all of these fanciful accessories. Looking over the drawings for the three pieces ot this set.) Then select the parts with the same machinin. and process them togelher. Make two copies of the clothes rack side pattern shown on page 57. below. Cut the sides (C) to size. and rout one edge of the upper rail and two edges of the lower rail. etc. and parts Band C in the shelf and chalkboard/ tackboard have rabbets along their edges.g operations from each pile. as shown at right. and WS for the wall-hung shelf. where shown on Drawing 1. see the Shop Tip. and other prized possessions. all the parts A have routed coves. too. avoid repeat setups by first cutting a'il the parts to sjze. -A. and parents will certainly appreciate the stor- D age and organization these pieces bring to youthful spaces. To save time when making all three projects. pictures. Change to a 1. Each project is designed with simple screw-and-plug joinery and routed edge profiles made with common bits so you'll be able to turn out the whole set in a weekend. (Note that you can build the chalkboard as a tackboard. and adhere them to the America's Best·EverWoodworking Projects Be Shop Tips 2006 52 . (We labeled om pieces CR for the clothes rack. Four-peg clothes rack Cut the top (A) and rails (B) to the sizes listed in the Materials List. That's a promise. Then drill 1/2" holes for the Shaker pegs in the lower rail. you'll find some of the same machining operations repeated in each one. and rout the ends and front edge of the top. all the parts 8 have round'overs.) The lucky recipient of your handiwork will love showing off his or her favorite awards. -8. where shown. followed by the part letter. Chuck a Ys" cove bit in your table-mounted router. For example.4" roundover bit. Keep track of them by labeling their ends. To help speed things along. CB for the chalkboard/tackboard.

wood screw driven into the wall stud wall anchor Keyhole hanger 53 . o CLOTHES sides with spray adhesive. Drill the counterbored screw holes where indicated on the pattern. Now glue and clamp it to the sides (C) and cleat (D). P2. P3 with both extensions trimmed. Starting from the right end of the frieze and aligning the patterns with the frieze's bottom edge. Glue and clamp the cleat to the top (A) with its front face flush with the front edges of the wood magazine.Apply the patterns to the frieze (E) in the following order: P1. Glue the Shaker pegs in place. scrollsaw the cutouts. place glue in the counterbore and tap in the end of the dowel. Plug all the counterbores with short pieces of %" dowel. and P3 with its right extension trimmed. Cut the cleat (D) to size. as shown in Photo A. and then sand the sides to shape. and drive the screws. Drill a Ys" start hole in each dolphin. P2. drill pilot holes into the rails. Now clamp the rails (B) between the sides (C). P2.~: ~or ~ #8 x 1'12" F. sides (C). Then clamp the top (A) in place. P1 with its extension trimmed. and then sand it flush. and using a #2R blade. and drive the screws. Then make two copies of each of the dolphinand-wave patterns PI. Drill counterbored screw holes. and P3 on page 57. and cut the frieze (E) to size. sand it smooth. U sing the holes in the sides as guides. Remove the patterns. Scroll saw or bandsaw. and finish-sand it. Make certain the cleat does not bow in or out. Fill any imperfections with wood filler and when dry. The sides are mirror images. To do this. Finish-sand the parts. trim the patterns and apply them with spray adhesive. and finish-sand the frieze. Resaw and plane stock to 1/4" thick.H. com RACK 3/8" counterbore 5/32" 1/4' deep with a shank hole centered inside 7/64' pilot hole 1" deep . Use a handsaw to trim the dowel slightly above the surface. flush with the back edges of the sides and centered side-to-side. so you'll transfer the counterbored hole locations on one of the sides to the face without the pattern.

1/4' rabbet 3/s" deep . " D SHELF coves CABINET r __ 3/8" Keyhole centered hangers 16" on center. wood screw driven into the wall stud or wall anchor hanger . ---c::' 9 .' . where shown on Drawing 1. $3.o:'>') 3/4 X 5'12 X 36" Poplar (1. and screw a pair of keyhole hangers to the back of the upper rail (B). and rout the ends and front edges of the top and bottom..~~~KeYhOle ~ W. Blades and bits: 1/4" round-over and 3(8"cove router bits.50 for a package of 10.:. kID fll. ft. where shown. (We used Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch sandable white primer. I'?? ?. or go to woodcraft.. drive two #8x I Y2" flathead wood screws into wall studs or wall anchors. _. Make sure the screws are exactly 16" apart and level.: P-poplar. To hang the clothes rack. ft. ~-~k:":"::'~~".3 bd.J. letting the heads protrude W'.) With the paint dry.6" - .H. single-hole keyhole hangers no._-. wood screw 41I=i IJl 51/2' ql 201/2' . on the width of ® 7/64" pilot hole 1" deep #8 x 1'12' F.( 3/8" dowel 1/4' long 8 America's Best-EverWoodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 . #2R scrollsaw blades. and topcoated with Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch flat $.'. and sides (C) to the sizes listed in the Materials List. V8"-thick self-adhesive door bumper 1 8 8 /8 f 8 #8 x 1 '12' F. where shown. and raise it to Ys".'----!.. ::J 3/8" dowel 1/4" long #8x1W'F. Now cut rabbets in the rails by passing them over the blade with their backs against the fence.Attach an auxiliary fence to the rip fence.H. Woodcraft. - -. Call800f225-1153.: • ~. Cut rabbets in the sides by passing them over the blade with their inside 54 281/4' #18 x %" wire nail 3/8" counterbore 1/4' deep with a 5/32' shank hole centered inside 7/. 02S82. drill pilot holes.<r< (5. $7. Supplies: #8x1 W' flathead wood screws. Materi A top B rails C sides D cleat E frieze 3/4" List 6" 21/2' 5" 3/4" 3'12" 29 V.. install a 1/4" dado blade in your tablesaw.99 for a package of two. and rout one edge of each rail. 04E51..) or resaw to the thickness listed in the Materials List. Shaker pegs no. I'. spray adhesive.:.99 for a sheet of 56.all-hung shell cabinet Cut the top and bottom (A)." 261/4" 10" 26V4' 273(/ P P P P P 1 2 314" 3/4" 3/4" 2 W' L@ 'Plane Cutting Diagram Material key.) J- 3/4 X 71/4 X 96" Poplar Source Hardware. where shown on Drawing 2. and slide it down onto them. Position the rack with the keyhole hangers over the screwheads.. and position it so the dado blade just grazes its surface. Chuck a 3JR" cove bit in your table-mounted router.' 3/8" counterbore 1/4' deep with a 5/32' shank hole centered inside ® f . . Change to a 1/4" round-over bit. 3/a" dowel. rails (B). 125505. self-adhesive door bumpers no.6"-diam.5 bd. Stick a pair of self-adhesive bumpers to the back edges of the sides (C). wood screw----------. To form the rabbets in the rails (B) and the sides (C).H.Prime and paint the clothes rack.

125505. Finish-sand the parts. Drill counterbored screw holes centered on the shelves' thickness. Change to a W' round-over bit. Now clamp the rails (B) between the sides (C).T. forming W' tongues Ys" long to fit in the sides' rabbets. Drill counterbored screw holes. Cutting Diagram *@< . Plug and fill the counterbores as directed in Step 5 of the clothes rack on page 53. Drill counterbored screw holes. and cut the frieze (G) to size. Then for the chalkboard. where shown above left on Drawing 2a. $7. Drill counterbored screw holes through the sides and into the rails. spray adhesive. flush with the back edges of the sides and centered side-to-side. rabbet the ends of the rails. flush with the back edges of the sides and centered side-to-side. add the keyhole hangers and self-adhesive bumpers. ft. self-adhesive door bumpers no. and drive the screws. Then referring to Drawing 2. forming W' tongues W' long. MatI. opposite. Cut the shelves (E) to size and finishsand them. scroll saw the cutouts. A simple modification into a cork-surfaced woodmagazine. P2. key: P-poplar. but use a \/2" dado blade. and finish-sand the frieze. Call 800/2251153. P3 with the left extension trimmed. apply the patterns to the frieze in the following order. Hardware. #18x5/a"wire nails. PI with its extension trimmed. Cut the cleat (F) to size and finish-sand it. forming W' tongues 3/s" long to fit in the side rabbets.99 for a sheet of 56.m SHELF CABINET RAIL DETAIL Materials List Shelf c. Finish-sand the parts./" faces against the table. and rout the edges of the rails. Source Inserting 73/4"-long scrap spacers. position the shelves (E) between the sides (e). Supplies: #8x1W' flathead wood screws. Then make one copy each of the dolphin-and-wave patterns PI and P2. cut the rail and side rabbets in the same manner. and using a #2R blade. P P P H P P P 2 2 2 2 5W 21/211 20'12" 18'// 28'14" 24" 17'12" 17'12" 19" 314" i/4" '7. then P3 with its right extension trimmed. and two copies of P3. Blades and bits: l/. Then install the shelves. Glue and clamp the lip to the bottom (A) and the front edges of the sides (C).com. and drive the screws. ft. 5V2 X 96" Poplar *Plane or resaw in the Materials Starting from the right end of the frieze and aligning the patterns with its bottom edge. as shown in Photo B. Drill counterbored screw holes through the sides and into the rails. Single-hole keyhole hangers no. Make sure parts D and E do not bow in or out. Resaw and plane stock to W' thick. and glue and nail it in place. opposite. stack dado turns the chalkboard tackboard. Drill a I/s" start hole in each dolphin. ¥e' dowel. Then clamp the top and bottom (A) in place. Drawing tackboard. where shown on Drawing 3.99 for a package of two. and sides (C) to the sizes listed in the Materials List. Then cut Ys" rabbets W' deep on the ends of the rails. Chuck a 3/. or go to woodcraft. where shown on Drawing 2a. Qty. where shown on 3a. rails (B). Remove the patterns. Then clamp the top and bottom (A) in place." round-over and 3/s" cove router bits. and drive the screws. Cut the cleat CD) and the lip (E) to size and finish-sand them. as directed in Step 2 of the shelf cabinet. Glue and clamp the cleat to the top (A) with its front face flush with the front edges of the sides (C). : ~/4" 3// FINISHED W SIZE L. For the cut rabbets.. Woodcraft. hang the shelf on the wall as directed in Step 9 of the clothes rack.:tb[net A top and bottom B rails C sides D back E shelves - _ .z® 3/4 X 5V2 X 96" Poplar (4 bd. To house the tackboard. and drive the screws./" ~/4 ~V411 4W 181/4" 41/4" 3/4' 3W' along deep back edge 1/4" F cleat G frieze Materials . where shown. Glue and clamp the cleat to the top (A) with its front face flush with the front edges of the sides (C). $. H-tempered hardboard. cut rabbets along the back edges of the rails (B) and sides (C).4" tempered hardboard to size for the back (D). Drive nails through the back (D) and into the shelves. as directed in Step 8 of the clothes rack.) -I Tempered @ % x 24 x 24" hardboard © 3/4 X © (4 bd. Prime and paint the shelf as directed in Step 7 of the clothes rack.~"cove bit in your table-mounted router. Now glue and clamp it to the sides (C) and cleat (F). #2R scrollsaw blades.) listed to the thickness I ® List. Finally. Now clamp the rails (B) between the sides (C). 55 . Chalkboardltackboard Cut the top and bottom (A). 02S82. and drive the screws. To house the chalkboard. Cut a piece of 1. and rout the ends and front edges of the top and bottom.

$.99 for a sheet of 56. 02S82. stack dado set. as directed in Step 8 of the clothes rack. Call 800/2251153.. $23. nailing it in place. Written by Jan Svec with Jeff Mertz Project design: Kevin Boyle Illustrations: Mike Mittermeier. P P P P P P H 3/s" dowel e 1/4" long 3/8" 2'12" 2112" 1112" %11 y. or go to wooccratt. Remove the patterns. 24x36" self-adhesive cork sheel 6mm (approx. install the chalkboard or tackboard.) To make the tackboard. FINISHED SIZE _ChalkltackbOa~?'T: A top and bottom B rails C sides JI'I . following the directions on the can... and cut the frieze (F) to size.. 125505. Woodcraft.-. Hardware.Plug and fill the counterbores as directed in Step 5 of the clothes rack on page 53. as directed in Step 7 of the clothes rack on page 54. Supplies: #8xl'12" flalhead wood screws. click Cork Rolls and Sheets. The Corkstore. hang the chalkboard or tackboard as directed in Step 9 of the clothes rack . adhere selfadhesive 1/4" -thick sheet cork to the back. and finish-sand the frieze. and then click PSA-Backed Composition Cork Sheets. self-adhesive door bumpers no. With the paint dry. adhering. $7. paint the back with chalkboard ruv." 7/16"-diam. Then follow the instructions for copying. 1/s"-thick self-adhesive door bumper o cleat 3!4~ E lip F frieze G back Materials Y4" 1/4" 3112" 181/4' 1/4" key: P-poplar. #18xo/s" wire nails for the chalkboard or #17xl" wire nails for the tackboard.99 for a package of two. Lorna Johnson IICHALKBOARDITACKBOARD 3/a" dowel 1/4' long ~ .. (We used Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch green aerosol chalkboard finish. -_Mati. and scroJisawing the dolphin patterns in Step 8 of the shelf cabinet on page 55..comlkids '/4 x 24 x 24" Tempered America's hardboard Projects 56 Best-Ever Woodworking 8r Shop Tips 2006 . Blades and bits: 'I'" round-over and 3/a" cove router bits. Sources mTACKBOARD RAIL DETAIL %" 3/a" rabbet W' deep along back edge IFindmore great projects for kids at Cutting Diagram 3/4 X 51/2 X 96" Poplar EE-EE3 (4 bd. woodmagazine. To make the chalkboard. Prime and paint the frame. Now add the keyhole hangers and self-adhesive bumpers. Resaw and plane stock to 1/4" thick.." 20'/2' 18'14" 281/4" 171/2" 19" 19" 24" 2 2 2 3/s" counterbore 1/4" deep with a coves 1.70. Y4") thick. H-tempered hardboard. Now glue and clamp it to the sides (C) and cleat (D).) 'Plane or resaw to the thickness listed in the Materials List. 3j. Under Product Listing. #2R scrollsaw blades. Cork. Finally. Call 800/959-0995. or go to corkstore. Cut the back (G) to 3/a" counterbore %" deep with a 5/32" shank hole centered inside ® #18 X 5/8" wire nail for the chalkboard #17 x t" wire nail for the lackboard Materials List : ~. spray adhesive. It.4 W_· - r. Single-hole keyhole hangers no. 3/a" dowel.

.. [] FULL-SIZE PATTERNS Left extension P3 Right extension --. so drill the counterbores on outsid'e lace... DOLPHIN-AND-WAVE ~ FULL-SIZE PATTERNS P2 .--.c Q) ·iii c o ur X © CLOTHES RACK SIDE FUILL-SIZE PATTERN (Right side shown) (2 needed) Note: The sides are mirror images.--. © counterbore 1/4" deep with a 5/32" shank hole inside 3/8" 1--------------- 5" -----1---------1 10" c.. .

. . . . I • ~ •• • :. . if you are using them.. . r.-.. . l " :...~ ~~ - ... ~ . the dividers (F). "". ..I. . For lightweight collectibles that can be attached with adhesives or fine thread.-. ~ .... -"" i . as shown at left. ~ 1.. :- ~ '=: > i.._..' Before you build your case. ... ·c ..' . ~ . .. Best-EverWoodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 ..··f .. 11 . ) ~C~·:· . .. ...."_.. :~ I ~ ") . . .. goes together in a snap.. . The glass stops and dividers are the same width as your desired inside depth. x.. ~~ 'v • •• .. fl· _" I • ~ -:- I Dividers add versatility to your showcase. ~.. For heavier items requiring a little more support...... ~. Later in this article you'll find tips for properly securing light and heavy objects. ~. measure the depth needed to display the items in your collection. -'" J.~ \ . ~. simply vary the widths of the sides (A).. _ .. ~ .. . . .... -. ... Include the size of stands Of fixtures you'Il use to position the items... .: . . ( ..~ ... -. and-here's the biggest benefit-call be customized easily to fit any collection.. tr" • "'" ~f . . . If the objects you wish to display require more or less depth. ~ early all of us have a small collection of one type or another. Add 11/4 to the inside depth for the finished width of the sides.. .. ~... Your collection dictates the case's depth y . ~.. build the case without dividers.a... . " ... ~ 1:.: ~. " ~. : ~... g1ass stops (B). Depending on the width of the sides._. • . And those collections vary considerably. . See page 61 for instructions for fitting your case with these easy-to-build dividers.. So we designed a display case that looks great.~ . .. . OUf display case has a 21/2" inside depth.. you also may want to adjust the number and placement of the corners' dovetail keys. ~ ).... and. '. .... build dividers like those shown below.. r.

Adhere double-faced tape in the sides' grooves near their ends. miter one end of each side. Cut the blanks to the same oversize length as the sides. To hang the shadow box on a pair of nails or wall anchors. and press the stops in place. S 6 woodmagazine. as indicated in Step 3 of Drawing 2. o EXPLODED VIEW 3/. With the taped-in stop blanks against the saw's top. choose one side (A) as the top. Cut side blanks W' wider and 1" longer than the size shown on the Materials List. and cut the sides (A). Drill centered holes in the back stops for the panhead screws. TO form the 3/16"-deep rabbet in the sides (A). pair up each side blank with a stop blank. Tilt yourtablesaw's blade to 45°. This will keep the stop tight against the side when the frame is assembled. Mark the plowed-out area of the side and the back of the stop so you can reassemble each pair in the same order. With your dado blade. and plow out a groove.6 x 175/16" glass 3/32" pilot hole 3/16" deep Plane two %X4Y4X40"boards to W' thick for the sides (A). plane the two pieces to 3/16" thick to make blanks for the glass stops (B) and back stops (C).com 59 . where shown in the three steps of Drawing 2. Install a 1/4" round-over bit in your table-mounted router. mark the outside of the bow as the back. cut two 3/16"-deep notches 2" long in its mating back stop (C).i:I:!l WALL MOUNTING il:INOTCH DETAIL For the items needed to build this project. If 4 El CUTTING THE WIDE RABBET STEP 3 Clean out between the dadoes. Remove the stop blanks. miter-cut the parts to finished length. Clamping a stopblock to the miter-gauge extension. install a %" dado blade in Start with the frame parts 2 your tablesaw. positioning it so the blade will cut through its end. a %x31/2x40" board in half.6"-deep notch 2" long #6 X 3/8" pan head screw 18" Matboard B Mitered ends 1/8 X 0 21/~ 175/. and rout the sides' front edges. glass stops (B) and back stops (C) to finished width. Trimming the excess width from the sides completes the rabbets. see the Materials List and Cutting Diagram on page 61. the sides are trimmed to final width after they are mitered. Attach a 24"-long auxiliary extension to your miter gauge. there is any bow in the stop blanks. STEP 1 Cut the front dado. where shown on Drawing 1a. where shown on Drawing 1. As indicated in Step 3. where shown on Drawing 1a.

apply masking tape. Apply three coats of penetrating oil finish. and spread glue on the miters.) With the frame lying face down on your workbench. See "Mounting your collectibles. and bevel-rip the blank. Check the key's fit in a slot. and glass. Form the frame. trim them close to the sides' surface with a' handsaw. glass stops. and rout a second set of slots. Tilt your tablesaw's blade to 14° (the same angle as the dovetail bit). tightly pulling them together. slipping the glass stop (B) underneath so the sides lay flat. Add the matboard back (E) and the back stops (C). Reassemble the glass. Turn the taped-together sides over. The key should slide in with just enough space for glue. With the points of the miters touching. following the directions on the can. as shown in Photo C. then carefully back the blank away from the blade. Remove the back stops. mark the location of the pilot holes on the frame. then slip the glass stops (B) in their marked places. Install a W' -14 dovetail bit in your table-mounted router. Secure the back stops with #6x3fs" panhead screws. then flip the frame so the opposite edge is against the jig's back.DCUTTING THE DOVETAIL SLOTS [) CUTTING THE DOVETAIL KEYS STEP 1 3/4 X 3 x 24" stock STEP 2 Fence (moved '12") '12"-14°dovetail bit raised 7/. Drive nails or anchors into the wall. Fold the taped-together sides. and back stops to 320 grit.4x3x24" blank for the dovetail keys (D). Make the corner slotting jig shown in Drawing 3. closing the miters. and adjust it to cut 7/16" deep. as shown in Step 1 of Drawing 4. and repeat the test until you are satisfied with the fit. By careful measurement. insert the glass. Sand the frame. freeing a test key. Make any necessary adjustments. Wipe away any glue squeeze-out with a damp cloth. and cut off eight I "-long pieces for the keys (D). Then. as shown in Photo A. and back stops. Attach the items you wish to display to the back. (Look for matboard at an art-supply store or a framing shop. Hang the display so the fasteners' heads engage the slots in the top back stop. rip a key strip the length of the remaining blank. Glue the dovetail keys (D) into the dovetail grooves. With the glue dry. position the fence to make the cut shown in Step 2. Position the fence 1W' from the bit's center. back. Drill the pilot holes in the frame. Test the key's fit. back. glass stops. set the frame on a flat surface to dry. To check for squareness. Make sure the top of your display cones ponds with the back stop that is notched for hanging. Rout dovetail slots across each of the comers." opposite top. Align the sides (A) with a straightedge. as shown on Drawing 1. Make a cut about 2" into the blank's end. then sand them flush. Finally. 0 Cut a 3.6" above surface of muter table Glue and spline the frame Prepare the frame for gluing. 60 America's Best-EverWoodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 . and forming the frame. for tips on mounting your pieces. Cut a piece of matboard for the back (E) the same size as the glass. Apply tape across the last pair of miters. Bandsaw the end off the key blank. leaving Ys" protruding. glass stops. measure the diagonals. Let the parts dry for a couple days after applying the last coat. Flip the blank end-for-end so its opposite face is against the saw's table. as shown. as shown on Drawing 1b. as shown in Photo B. Cut a sheet of single-strength glass cut 1/16" smaller in length and width than the frame's rabbeted opening. Pressing the back stops snug against the back and using the holes in the stops as guides.

as you did with the frame and stops. Look for Tacky Wax at art.m···=L:lfb. (If your display case has a different depth than ours. Position the items on the dividers.. giving us nine idellll('({ niches. **~ [f. plates. and then plane to thickness listed in the Materials List. Lorna Johnson Resaw them in half.6 17" M W F' dividers W' IlJ DIVIDERS 'Parts initially cut oversize..5.J~ . all the notches are cut using one stopblock call 8881782·6312.) Attach a 3"-tall auxiliary extension to your miter gauge so it extends about 7" to the right of the blade.or crafts-supply stores.. feed the ends through the buying guide.... add the back. Stands lor just about anything you wish to display are available Irom The Stand Man.-. Assemble the dividers by interlocking their notches. position the back. Matboard: The matboard lor the back (E) is available at an.""". as indicated on Drawing 5.) J 3/4 X 3'/2 X 96" Walnut I 3... Cut two :l/4x21/2x20" boards for the dividers (F). . Finally. and hang the display case as before ..~""""·"o. special stands are available. and plane the resulting four pieces to W' thick. and adjust it to cut 1W' deep.6" 2'12" ~/16" 7116" ~/1611 175/r. and teacups.-j. . and tie the thread. ft. and trim the divider blanks to fit the opening. or order it from the company in the Source. and dolls to spoons. Apply finish to the dividers. SHDPTIP12 Mounting your collectibles With your display case complete.**® (2. To request a catalog or place an order. 3/4 X 3'/2 X 48" Cherry (1. ft. To view the catalog. To secure items that will stand on their own. both !lOrizol/lully and vertirallv.. See the Source below for our or wire around the item. displaying everythingl from baseballs To tie your items. go to thestandman. or wire at the back.3 bd.16 List 31.. Supplies: Single-strength glass.. Source Written by Jan Svec with Chuck Hedlund Project design: Chuck Hedlund Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine.. clamp a stopblock to the extension. and hang it on the wall. __ Note: We divided our tlispltr: case illlhird. roll small balls of Tacky Wax removable adhesive..and cralts-supply stores and framing shops.. or tie them in place with thread. Sand the dividers to 320 grit. nails or wall anchors.·····_'···~>i ::. and a stack dace-blade set. %x4xl 01/. a.ials key: C---theny.' rounocver and 1/. Lust van' the IlIImbel' and placement of the dividers. Matef. Display stands. line. W-walnut. where shown on Drawing 5. holes. securing the items to them. notching lilly them IOg. #6X3/8" panhead screws (8).. Because our dividers are partitioned in thirds. screw the back stops in place. Let the finish dry for a couple of days.£Jli. Secure items to the matboard back with small dots of silicone adhesive. See the sidebar above right. first poke holes through the matboard with a sewing needle." II 18' 173/8" 173/8" 7/S" G G G W 11 4 4 4 8 4 2W' '12" '12" 175/.. you'll need a method for fastening items to the matboard back.. screw in the back stops. 61 . For some items....) *Plane to thickness listed ::n ® in the Materials List. If you are using dividers. line.. Here's a sampling of stands for monofilament fishing line. insert them in the frame and set it upright.\pluineiLbe1ow . #8x2" Ilathead wood screws (4). Keeping the display case upright. [@~m' . Cutting Diagram X 3/4 5V2 X 96" Cherry (4 bd. for a tip on securing items to the dividers. Loop the thread.7 bd.. Check the inside dimensions of your case. Slide the divider unit into the display case after the glass stops are in place. or if you are using dividers. as shown at right.. or very fine copper wire. ft. and stick them to the bottoms of the items. below.6 x 20 x 30" Matboard ® Materials A' sides B' glass stops G' back stops D' keys E back '12" 31 .Make the oQtional d~iv~i~d~e~rs!__... Secure the stands to the dividers with Tacky Wax... See the instructions. For accurate repeat cuts. You eWI divide raul" case t'1"('1/ u'ay you wish: the divisions call be dff/erelll sizes ."·14° dovetail router bits. and cut the notches. install a W' dado blade in your tablesaw.. carefully pressing them in place." solid stock (2).)**Resaw. M-matboard. Blades and bits: . adjust the dado blade to cut hal f the width of your dividers. For Ihe slotting jig: 3/4x9xI6' plywood. To notch the dividers.

62 Amer. begin on page 68. The plans for the matching coatrack. above.ica's Best·Ever WoodworKing Projects & Shop Tips 2006 .sit-I-spell Looking for a place to perch while you remove street shoes and ease into slippers? Here's a down-home bench that's as practical as it is good-looking.

I). check lheJit ofvour panels ill rile IIfJl'ighrs' grooves.\· (. for information on veneering the backs of your panels. For the items needed to build this project. we applied oak veneer to their backs. Install a 1. mu 1JW1c!. where shown on Drawing 2. Bandsaw and sand the top radii. and then sand or joint them smooth. stoppiog when the mark on the side of the upright aligns with the bit's marked position on the tape. and E. Be sure to drill the counterbores so you have mirrored pairs of uprights. Cut the rear uprights (B). C). Position the fence to make a centered groove in parts B. C).'4" straight bit in your tablemounted router. front uprights (C). upper rails (D). and adjust it to cut . Our design combines straightforward stubtenon-and-groove end assemblies with screw-and-plug joinery as the foundation for a substantial piece of furniture that's easy to build.fir nicelv ill II 11. Be/ill'e proceedil gfunher. and drill them on your drill press. and lower rails (E) to size. rout the grooves in the upper rails (D) and lower rails (E). Bandsaw the angle on each upright just outside the marked lines. Without changing your router-table setup. An open shelf stores footwear and allows plenty of air circulation for drying damp shoes. Mark the locations of the counterbored holes on the rear and front uprights (B. Mark the ends of the stopped grooves on the sides of the uprights (B. Note that all the counterbores are on the parts' mils ide faces. See the sidebar on page 64. Because the 1/4" plywood panels are visible from both sides. C./' 63 . Mark the bit's position on a piece of masking tape adhered to the router-table insert. where shown on Drawing 1. see the Materials List and Cutting Diagram on page 67. where shown on Drawing 1. Rout the grooves.J<q" deep. this bench fits right into your come-and-go lifestyle. '14' groove 3/8" deep E) UPPER AND LOWER RAILS 'Note: Use the same double-curved profile for the shelf skirts (H). Set the rails aside.ade of sturdy red oak enhanced by a medium-toned stain. Note: WillI 35" 243/4' 3/8" counterbores 1/4" deep on outside face with a 5/32'shank hole centered inside © 151/4' 171/4' their backs 1'1'Ilel' red. 143/s" 97/a" nUPRIGHTS 3/8" (Inside faces shown) counterbore V4' deep on inside face with a 5132' shank hole centered inside Location of@ 3/4' dadoes 1/4" deep on inside faces 3/8" counterbore V4' deep on outside face with a 5132" shank hole centered inside 8" Start with the end parts Cut the panels (A) to the size shown on the Materials List. woodmagazine. D. Mark the angled cut and the top radius on each of the rear uprights (B). and your limited shop time.


ways to put a second good face on 1/4" plywood

The back face of %" hardwood plywood is typically a nondescript tropical species. And that's fine, so long as the back face doesn't show. When it does show, cover it with a veneer matching the species on the front face.

except those for the screws that fasten the arms (G). Drill these counterbores on the parts' inside faces. To form the tenons on the rails (0, E), cut :y;~" rabbets 1/4" deep on their ends. Make test cuts in scrap the same thickness as the rails, and test the tenon's fit in the grooves of the uprights (B, C). Make any necessary adjustments to achieve a snug fit, then cut all the tenons. Raise the dado blade to :Y8", and cut the shoulders on the tenons of the upper rails (D), as shown in Photo A. Draw the cutouts in the lower rails (E), where shown on Drawing 2. Bandsaw and sand the cutouts. Cut two Y4x3x4if2" blanks for the brackets (F) and two ~ Y4x41/"xI5Y4" blanks for the arms (G). Make two copies each of the ~c-< bracket and arm patterns Drawings ~ 4 and 5 on page 7 J. Adhere the patterns to the blanks with spray adhesive. Bandsaw and sand the parts to the pattern lines. To make a mirrored pair of arms, transfer the hole locations on one arm to the face opposite the pattern by drilling 1/16" holes through the arm. First, drill the counterbores in both arms. Then drill the centered 0/12" holes in one arm and enlarge the 1/16" holes to 0/12" in the other. Install a 1Js" round-over bit in your table-mounted router, and round over the edges of the arms, where indicated on the pattern.

To apply paper-backed veneer, first cut the veneer slightly larger than the panel. Spread woodworker's glue on the panel with a short-nap roller. Clamp the panel and veneer between particleboard platens. Paper-backed veneers are available in the widest variety of species. Because large panels require the use of cauls to transfer clamping pressure to their centers, we recommend this veneer for small panels only.

Assemble the ends
Bond iron-on veneer with a household iron. Just remember to use kraft paper to prevent scorching or marring the veneer. Use a roller or wood block with rounded edges to smooth the veneer as the adhesive cools. Although more expensive than paper-backed veneer, we chose iron-on veneer for the hall bench because it's easy to apply and was available at our local home center. Species selection is limited.

To adhere peel-and-stick veneer, pull back its release paper about '14" along the sheet's longest edge, exposing the adhesive. Apply this edge to the panel's mating edge. Press the veneer in place with your hand as you continue removing the release paper. Smooth the veneer with a roller or wood block. This is the ultimate no-fuss method, but also the most expensive. Species selection is limited.

Before applying glue, dry-assemble (no glue) the panels (A), uprights (B, C), and rails (D, E) to make sure everything fits. Orient the best faces of the panels outward. The stopped grooves in the uprights are slightly long, so keep the panels bottomed in the rails' grooves, and align the lower rails (E) with the bottoms of the uprights. When satisfied with the fit, glue and clamp the end assemblies. With the glue dry, cut W' dadoes 1/4" deep across the inside faces of the end assemblies, where dimensioned on Drawing 3. To prevent tear-out, back your cuts with a follower block. Once again, make certain your assemblies are mirrored pairs. Glue and clamp the brackets (F) to the outside faces of the front uprights (C), centered on their width, where shown on Drawing 3. Clamp the arms (G) in place. Using the holes in the rear uprights (B) and the arms as guides, drill pilot holes into the arms, front uprights, and brackets, and drive in the screws.



Best-Ever Woodworking


& Shop Tips


3/8" plug 1/4' long #8 x 1 W' F.H. wood screw---f


3/8" groove W' deep, centered



#8 x 1'14" F.H. wood screw




3;4" dadoes

1/4" deep



3/8" counterbore 1/4' deep with a 5/32" shank hole centered inside

• '_

.-1. /3/8"

#8 x 2" F.H. wood screw plug 1/4" long deep

-(' ,


'14" grooves


x 2" F.H. wood screw

3/8" counterbore 1/4' deep with a 5/32" shank hole centered inside

Attach an auxiliary extension to your miter gauge. Position the upper rail on its edge, with its groove facing up. Clamp a stopblock to the extension, and cut the tenon shoulders.

Chuck a W' plug cutter in your drill press, and make at least 34 plugs Y8" long, enough for all the counterbores in the entire project. Glue plugs into the counterbores for the screws that fasten the arms in place, and sand them smooth. Set the rest of the plugs aside. Sand the end assemblies to

220 grit. See the Shop Tip on page 66 for tips on hiding plugs.

Build the shelf, seat, and back
Cut the shelf skirts (H) and seat skirts (I) to the sizes listed. Layout the same

double-curved profile shown for the lower rail (E) on Drawing 2 on the ends of the shelf skirts. Bandsaw and sand the skirts to the layout lines. Edge-join oversize blanks for the seat and shelf (J). With the glue dry, trim them to finished size, Install a 1/4" roundover bit in your handheld router, and rout the edges of the seat and shelf, where shown on Drawing 3. Cut the back rails (K) to the size listed. Install a Y8" dado blade in your tablesaw and cut 1/2"-deep grooves, centered on the thickness of each rail, where shown. Then rout 1/8" round-overs on the edges opposite the grooves. Plane enough stock to Y8" thick for the slats (L) and fillers (M), checking their fit in the back rails' grooves. Cut the slats and 14 fillers to size. Cut the remaining four fillers 1/2" longer than listed. They are cut to length during assembly. Sand all the parts (H, I, J, K, L, and M) to 220-grit smoothness. For easy insertion later, ease the edges of the fillers (M) with a sanding block. Glue and clamp a filler in the groove in each back rail (K), centered on their lengths. Assemble the two back rails with two slats pushed tightly against the gluedin fillers. Add the other slats, spacing them


approximately 3" apart. Layout three bar clamps, and place this assembly on them. Make certain the rails' ends align, and snug the center clamp. Starting in the middle and working out to the ends, glue and clamp the fillers in place, drawing the successive slats and fillers toward the center and tight against each other. Cut the four end fillers to fit flush with the ends of the rails, and glue and clamp them in place. Now tighten all three bar clamps and allow the glue to dry.

Now for final assembly
Place the shelf (J) upside down on your workbench. Glue and clamp the front shelf skirt (H) to the shelf, 11;4" in from the shelf's front edge, where shown on Drawing 3, and centered end to end. Glue and clamp the front seat skirt 0) to the seat (1) in the same position. Set assembly UJ aside. Clamp the assembled shelf skirt and shelf (H/J) between the end assemblies with bar clamps, seating the shelf's ends in the end assemblies' bottom dadoes. Position the shelf so the skirt is %" back from the end assemblies' front edges. The shelf protrudes 1/2" beyond the front uprights.
With one end of the seat assembly resting on a spacer, flex the opposite side assembly just enough to allow you to lower the seat's other end into its dado.

Achieving the (almost) invisible plug
When developing the design for this project, we were concerned that the end assemblies and arms with all their plugged counterbores might look like Swiss cheese. To prevent that, project builder Chuck Hedlund took great care in selecting and installing the plugs, shown in the photo. Here are some of Chuck's tips: • Drill your counterbores with a sharp brad-point or Forstner bit. Whenever possible, use your drill press. • Save the cutoffs from the parts that need plugs. Cut the plugs from these pieces. • Use tapered plug cutters. With these your plugs will fit tightly in the counterbores, like corks in bottles. • Cut more plugs than you need. This allows you to select plugs that best match the wood grain pattern and color around the counterbore.

• When installing the plugs, take care to align the plug's grain with that of the surrounding wood.

Clamp the rear shelf SkiI1 (H) in place -%" in from the end assemblies' rear edges. Using the shank holes in the end assemblies as guides, drill pilot holes into the shelf skirts. Drive the screws. To allow for wood movement, do not glue the rear skirt to the shelf. Retrieve the seat assembly (IIJ). Clamp a 13x13" scrap spacer to the inside face of one end assembly with its bottom edge on the shelf. Its top edge is even with the bottom of the end's top dado. Now, insert the seat assembly, as shown in Photo B. Align the seat the same as you did the shelf. Clamp the rear seat skirt (I) in place %" in from the end assemblies' rear edges. Using the shank holes in the end assemblies as guides, drill pilot holes into the seat skirts. Drive the screws. Do not glue the rear skirt to the seat. Rest the back assembly (KIUM) on 2 /2X21/2" spacers clamped to the rear uprights, and fasten it in place, as shown in Photo C. The back assembly's



Best-Ever Woodworking


& Shop Tips


''14 0 upper rails F' brackets 3/.) ~f--------~ e(!···f···:··.' 3/4 11 3/4' 3/. Lorna Johnson ® ® '/4 x 24 x 24" Oak plywood woodmagazine. or 2x8' peel-and-stick no. ft. See the instructions. and clamp it in place. sanding between coats with 220-grit sandpaper .com 67 . On to the finish Carefully check all surfaces of the bench and resand areas that need it. 3/8" plug culler..) Retrieve the previously made plugs. #8x1 '/2' flathead wood screws (6).) Written by Jan Svec with Chuck Hedlund Project design: Kevin Boyle Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine. or visit rockler. drill pilot holes. Flat-cut red oak veneer. $59. 14241. V8" and Vi' round-over router bits. Blades and bits: Stack dado set. -. #8x2" flathead wood screws (24).' 3// 3/8" 3/8" G' H I J' K 0 0 0 M' fillers 'Parts initially cut oversize. following the recommended directions on the can. Materials key: OP-oak plywood.6" 5/8" 103/. ft. and glue them into the remaining counterbores.' 3/. Cutting Diagram rails are set lie" back from the angled edge of the rear uprights (B). spray adhesive.A B C E panels rear uprights front uprights lower rails arms shelf skirts seat skirts seat and shell back rails slats '14" Y4 11 10~!2" 23/4' 23/4' 33/4' 43/4' 23/a" 4'14" 3'h" 2'/2' 16W' 2V2' 115/. apply a stain. ft.3 bd. 3x8' paper-backed no. Let the stain dry for 24 hours.3 bd. We used Zar Salem Maple. X 7'14 x 96" Oak (5.99. Supplies: #8x1 '/4' flathead wood screws (4). Sand the plugs flush.' 3/4' 3/.. 14027. 3/4 x 7% x 96" Oak (5. If you wish. l::: ::-~::: @ 3/4 X 5'/2 x 96" Oak (4 bd. Call Rockier Woodworking and Hardware at 800/279·4441. [!® 3/4 n •••••• n. where shown on Drawing 1.n •••• n ••. and drive the screws.·. Using the shank holes in the rear uprights as guides.99. We brushed on two coats of satin polyurethane. Vi' straight._-_-·······••• .com. O-oak. Ease any sharp edges with a sanding block and 220grit sandpaper. Then apply a clear finish. Source Veneer. EO-edge·joined oak.. $59.' 35" 243/4" 10'/2' 10'12' 4" 15'/2' 421/2" 42V2' 43" 42'/2' 93/4' 3" OP 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 8 18 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 EO ". Look for iron-on veneer at your local home center or woodworking specialty store.. Rest the back assembly on 2Y2"-wide spacers.

68 America's Best-Ever Woodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 . And while providing family members and guests a place to hang their coats. take the opportunity to show off your favorite 5)(7" photos at the same time.Add zest and function to your home with this "entry"-Ievel project. too. as shown on the opposite page. You can place other items in the frames.

Don't worry about making the groove a bit wider. . Dryassemble the rails and mullions.. cut a Ys"-long test tenon on a piece of scrap the same thickness as your parts... cut 114" grooves 3/s" deep. Cut the stiles (D) l/2" longer than the size listed. bottom rail. To make sure that each groove is centered in the part. Options include photographs chalkboard (photo opposite page).com 69 . and check for correct fit. Your frame-filling options Feel free to customize the look and functionality the coatrack frames.. available at home centers. B) and mullions (C).. glue and clamp the stiles flush against the rails. centered in the top rail. cut the tenons on the ends of the rails (A. Then.. I Fashion a sturdy frame Cut the top rail (A). bottom rail (B). 21/4'. 1/4' hardboard with Rust-Oleum Board Finish. Painter's Touch Chalk woodmagazine. ~. where dimensioned on Drawings 1 and 2.. You'll cut these to final length later.~ '12" hole 5/8" EJ GROOVE-AND-TENON DETAILS ~ 3'12" Shaker peg deep / --. turn the piece end-for-end after the first pass and make a second pass. Using a dado blade in your tablesaw.j2"l--. glue and clamp the pieces together.. Mark the locations of the mullions (C) on the top and bottom rails (A. B). where dimensioned on Drawing 1. and stiles. mullions (C). Measure the distance between the outer edges of the top and bottom rails. and shelf (E) to the sizes listed in the Materials List.. trim the stiles (D) to your measurement. Now.. corkboard. Trim as needed until you get a snug fit. mullions.. Then. You'll simply compensate by making the tenons slightly thicker to fit snugly in the grooves. Check the fit of the tenon in one of the grooves. To make your own chalkboard. of and or simspray ply the plywood frame backs as attractive wood fillers (photos at left). Using the setup shown in Photo A.nFRAME ~~31V4' r @ Location of part® . Then..

Then. making sure the brackets are centered on the stiles. where shown in Drawing 3. Go in reverse for a smooth cut Here's a simple way to avoid tear-out when routing the openings on the back of the frame: Move the router counterclockwise rather than the normal clockwise direction. With a \12" round nose bit. known as "climb cutting. rout a Vs"deep groove along the top front edge of the shelf (E) to form a chalkrail. where dimensioned on Drawing 1. Add the shelf. Drill 1/2" holes S/s" deep on the face of the bottom rail (B) to receive the Shaker pegs. shallow cuts.2" pilot holes 5/s" deep (measured from the back surface of the stiles) for the mounting screws. Mark the locations for drilling four 5/g" holes on the back of the stiles (D). cut the backs to size. also have pieces of Vs" glass cut to the size shown on Drawing 3. Chuck a 5/s" Forstner bit in your drill press. and drill the outer holes I/s" deep. where shown on Drawing 3."" pilot hole Ys" deep in the center of each hole for the retainer-clip screw.~ wood screw 1/a" ffset glass o retainer clip 3W Shaker peg Machine the details Rout a Ys" rabbet 1/2" deep around each of the openings on the back side of the frame assembly. square the corners of the rabbet in each opening. use a sharp bit. Using a I 1/2" Forstner bit. Sand smooth. brackets. To avoid chip-out. to form slots to receive the keyhole hangers. 70 America's Best-EverWoodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 . Cut two 3x4\12" blanks from %"thick stock for the brackets (F). With this technique. keep both hands on the router. Glue the pegs in place. Using a chisel. below. If you're going to display photos in the frames or use just the backs (G) as fillers.H. For photos. drill a y. Then./ r 7'18" _ 3/32" pilot hole 5/a" deep from back of @ l @ . and drill the inner holes y~" deep. Be sure to clamp your workpiece securely when you climb cut. drill 5/16"deep holes for the glass retainer clips. wood screw '18 X 11/2" ole 5/'6" deep with a h 3/32" pilot hole 3/a" deep. refer to the Shop Tip.) Straighten the sides of the slots with a chisel. centered 'I 5'18 x 71/a" glass inside / ". Practice on a scrap piece first to get used to the cutting action. Make two photocopies of Drawing 4. Place a keyhole hanger in each slot. mark and drill Y.. and backs A stopblock clamped to an auxiliary extension makes it easy to cut uniform %"-Iong tenons on the ends of the rails and mullions. Then. and make progressive. (The deeper holes provide space to receive the head of a wall-hanging screw. Attach a pattern to each blank with spray adhesive. centering it side to side and flush with the back of the top rail (A). the full-size bracket pattern opposite. and ease the curved edges. glue and clamp the brackets to the stiles (D) and shelf. clamp the shelf (E) in place. where dimensioned on Drawing 3.D EXPLODED VIEW (Viewed from back) Keyhole hanger F #6 X 9/'6" F. then band saw the brackets to shape.Keyhole hanger .." you move the router in a direction that's with the rotation of the bit rather than against it. where dimensioned on Drawing 3a. Then.

See the instructions." Forstner bits.4 FINISHED SIZE T W L 2" 4" 2" 2" 4" 23/8' 5Va" 4" 3/. sanding between coats. To use the backs as frame fillers. Vi' roundnose bit.. [) FULL-SIZE BRACKET PATTERN !: i i I i . install them with cardboard spacers. Source Hardware.) • Written by Owen Duvall Project design: Chuck Hedlund Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine.--.' Shaker pegs no."-"-'--"-' i ~~ i" 71 .~ KEYHOLE DETAIL .. For other items. $. Keyhole hangers no. 5/S" r'-"\.! .' 1" deep for bench.' 3/. and secure.99 lor pack 01 2 with screws." page 69. Vax5Vax7Va" glass panels (5). 50G10. and secure with the retainer clips. For photographs. Qty. : · I" V4' 'Parts initially cut oversize. photos.' 3/.. BRACKET FUUL-SIZE PATTERN (2 needed) ® Materials List Coatrack A top rail B bottom rail C mullions D'stiles E shelf F' brackets G backs Materials 3/11 .-- ® ® @ 21/8" Refer to the sidebar "Your framefilling options. .99 for bag of 10 with screws. Finally. Apply a coat of stain followed by two coats of a clear finish. ' 31W' 0 311/4' 0 7W' 4 0 12\12" 2 0 36" 0 1 4" 0 2 7Va" OP 5 / . and add spacers..) Install the keyhole hangers and the retainer clips using the supplied screws. oak 3'/. (A #8 pan head screw fits the opening in the keyhole hangers. Remove the dust. (We used ZAR's Salem Maple stain and ULTRA fast-drying polyurethane. or go to woodcrattcorn. and backs (G) in the frame. 7M' pilot hole only ii' : . $6. key: O-{)ak. for items you can place in the frames. and 1V.99 for bag of 10.8" offset glass retainer clips no. OP-{)ak plywood. ._ .' 3/411 3/11 . omit the glass and backs. 130329. if necessary. © © © © © I [l FULL-SIZE GRIDDED HALL BENCH ARM PATTERN Cutting Diagram 1/4 x 12 x 24" Oak plywood woodmagazine. call 800/225-1153.. Blades and bits: Dado blade. Order from Woodcraff.. $1. attach the coatrack to your wall using suitable anchoring fasteners. 3/a"piloted rabbeting bit.. I. Lorna Johnson '. install the glass.._~/ ii' : ~. so they fit snugly against the retainer clips.\ Finishup Sand all surfaces and edges smooth to 220 grit. '. 125505. Supplies: Spray adhesive.4 MaU.

72 America's Best-Ever Woodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 .

tape the two ends together.1_2-+-3/4'-----1' lri(~ Centerpoint for '14" screw hole location + E) BASKET END PANEL 95/a" E1!l DOWEL HOLE LOCATIONS ~. backing the panels with scrap to prevent chip-out. and drill Ys" holes IYI6" deep where marked... and countersink the l/4" holes on the inside face of each end panel (see Drawing 3a accompanying Drawing 3).com 73 . Now. as shown in the same drawing. . Remove the clamps. and clamp the pieces together for each end panel. cut and sand that panel to shape. Drill a 3/8" hole W' deep centered over the 1/4" hole on the outside face of each end to accept the W' T-nut.. Drill the l/4" and Ys" holes through both end panels at the marked centerpoints. We beltsanded to the marked line for a near-perfect final shape). Made of __ durable ash. cutting slightly outside the marked line.) Glue. Separate the ends. loosen the clamps and flatten the pieces against the pipes or bars of the clamps. layout the panel's shape. the cradle features a simple rocking mechanism that offers a soothing solution to the cries of restless babies.-"-: --_. check them for flatness with a straightedge.. where dimensioned on Drawing 1. Mark the centerpoints for the Ys" dowel holes and the 1/4" screw hole on one of the basket end panels using the dimensions on Drawings 2 and 2a.~h-i\ . '--- Centerpoints for 3/8" dowel hole locations Dowel locations '--- -~~. 13" ---- :-_-_"_ 'r '--- . Using double-faced tape.. dowel. 4" ere's a cradle that's sure to be passed on from generation to generation. face-to-face. Mark a centerline on one of the end panels. 16 1/\t ®I 10 I®i ~4W 25'" 4" ---t ® "~.. Once clamped. J . Cut and sand the end panel to shape. where shown on Drawing 2. (We used a doweling jig for alignment. (We cut ours on a bandsaw. Mark the dowel locations. Dry-clamp together each basket end panel.. woodmagazine. with the edges flush. with the bottom edges of all the parts flush. cut two As and eight B's to the rough sizes listed in the Materials List. What better way to express your love and pride in honor of the newborn? H I 4 Vi' --1 ®-l 4" 4" Laminate and shape the basket end panels To make the basket ends.-------: ':"_-_-_-_-_-_-_: .' 2" 1-----91/4"----+----111/4"----~_j Dowel location reference marks Cenierpoints for 3/8" dowel hole locations o BASKET EI\lD PANEL GLUE-UP \ \ -. Use this panel as a template to trace the shape onto the second panel. Then. If necessary..1 V.

.c" -: /f/' LOWER RAIL DETAIL Dowel holes ~ 1f4' groove '/4' deep %" goove 1/4" deep 1/4" goove '/4' deep at 8° from center 74 America's Best-Ever Woodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 .~ ROCKING JOINT DETAIL El EXPLODED 3/s" clearance hole %" deep 1/4" hole.47/' '! ! :! : 2" long. countersunk on back side of (8). !" 314"".. #6 x 1" F. trimmed flush after assembly 3/8" dowel 3/8" holes 1" deep ..H. ®. \CJ" ~/.D . I/. wood screw ./ / Do not round over bottom of feet.' r I .. drill Rilot hole Vi' deep into@and@« '."/ 10/. !! 1. __ «/ 9/64" hole. countersunk VIEW "~ ~r "" 3/8" dowel ..

Use a bar clamp at each corner to hold the rai Is. glue the spacers in position. run a bead of glue along the groove in each top rail. and cut 8 spacers (E) 2" long. as shown in Photo B. Tilt the blade 8° from center. Insert the basket bottom between the two bottom rails. and trim them to length after they are installed. al igning the centerline mark with the centerline on the bottom rail. and trim the end spacers flush. rip 34 IJ4"-thick strips from the edges of the boards to obtain Il4x%"-wide slats. turned the drill on. Make sure the rails are flush with the outside edge of the panels. glue and position one of the marked slats in the groove. Marked centerlines o Align the top rail (C) with the marked middle slat (D). centering the rails over the W' dowel holes in the panels.) Later. where shown. Repeat this procedure for the second basket side. glue the slats and spacers in position. If you start the drill and then try to insert and align the spinning bit in the guide hole. As shown in Photo A. and tap it onto the ends of the slats as shown in the photo. To make the slats (D). it tends to drill the hole oversize and off-center. Now. and cut a I!I" groove V. Mount a 1/4" dado set to your rablesaw. after the glue holding the hardboard bottom in position has dried. mark a centerline down one face of two of the slats. start by resawing four strips V4x3hx24" long from thicker stock. Measure and mark the center (between the two ends) of each rail. woodmagazine. F).---~---Center and square the middle slat (D) with the bottom rail (C). Then. Dry-clamp the rails between the basket end panels. Using Drawings 3b and 3c. cut several 3/4"-thick boards to 10" in length.t deep centered along the hallam edge of the lop rails and along the top edge of the bottom rai Is. remove the clamps.t and Ys" round-overs along the edges of each rail. flip over the assembly to keep the glue in the groove from running down the slats. and cut a I!I" groove v~"deep in each bottom rail. and cut three or four more. To form the spacers (E. Again. Set a stop. Now. Repeat this process with the second bottom rail. (To do this. Clamp a scrap strip on each side of the slats to align them. stop and joi nt the edge of the stock being cut. You also can cut them on a tablesaw and eliminate the jointing. Now for the basket sides Cut the upper and lower rails (C) to size. Working from the center to the ends. Using the previously drilled dowel holes as guides. Center the top rail on the center 75 . we first centered a brad-point bit inside the hole. we would cut three or four slats on the bandsaw. drill Ys" holes I" deep into the end of each rail (C). Run a bead of glue in the V~"groove in each bottom rail. Assemble "thebasket Cut the hardboard basket bottom (0) and the two cleats (H) to size. starting at the center. where shown on Drawing 3c.) Sand the slats smooth to remove the saw marks. where shown on Drawings 3b and 3c. Save the long spacers for the ends of the groove. Next. (When ripping the slats. and then drilled into the rails. Now. and then fit the rest of slats into the groove in the top rail. cut 64 of the I" spacers (F). checking that each slat aligns square with the rail. rout the I/.

mating hole is _ the same size UPRIGHT SUPPORT SHAPE .[I UPRIGHT SUPPORT -<.~~ CD 241/4" r~-i . L~ __ i . ~ 3/8" hole 13/.--------------------------7-~ ~ :--! . 3/4" hole '14" deep with a 3/8" hole 1/2" deep centered inside 6'12" 30Y2' Inside face CD 3/8" dowel pin 1'12" long il ' \ 21/8" . ~ holes for joining cross member 3/8" ~~~.6" deep. i Mating location of cross member ® ~~~--~------------------~ R=1" 76 America's Best-Ever Woodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 .

. 1/4' inside diameter. (We held the dowel in a hand-screw and formed the groove with a sharp chisel. Des Moines. 4412 N. Drill and countersink holes to the sizes shown on Drawing 3. Suppl ies: 3/a"dowel pins 1V2' long (28). sand the dowels flush. Form a glue groove in all but the end (which is exposed) of each dowel to prevent forcing the glue from the dowel hole. 1/4' T-nuts (2). Between coats.• Written by Marlen Kemmet Project design: James add W' brass washers for spacers. and clamp each upright support together. dowel.) Apply a small amount of glue to the ends of the rails and in the dowel holes. trim and sand the dowels flush with the face of each end panel. Later.' 16" 31" 10" 11/a" 1" 31" 17" 301/2' 241/4" 3/. double-faced tape. Dryclamp (no glue) it in position between the upright supports.11 . Thread each screw until the head is flush with the inside face of the basket end. mark the location of all the holes shown. WA WA WA WA WA WA H WA WA WA WA 2 8 4 34 8 64 1 2 2 2 4V2' 4V2' 2" 3ji' 253/. If your stock contains a defect or you make a wrong cut. \14' brass flat washers (6). as shown on Drawing 3a. using Drawing 3 as a guide. To check the fit of the basket in the support assembly. insert a machine screw through the inside face of each basket end panel. Remember: If you do lots of building. Two required.' 1/4' 1/411 3/a" 3/a" 175/a" 3/a" 41/4' 51/4' 1/4' 1/4' 3/.a Basket support assembly Using J1/16" stock. Now. dowel. Cut the second support to shape.7 bd. rout a III" round-over on the inside face of each panel. hardwoods are typically discounted when purchasing 100 board feet or more. Using Drawing 4 as a guide. Cutting Diagram F© ·4'A~ :rwrj=:gyV *10\ ~ 3f4 X 91/4x 96" Ash (6. continue threading both screws through the T-nuts. stock no.' 3/. Cut and sand the supports to shape. masking tape. Repeat this process with the other end panel. Sources SHOPTIP15 How much wood? The Cutting Diagrams found with each project shows just enough material for the pieces in the project.) Tap a 1/4" T-nut into the 3/s" hole in each basket end panel. See the instructions. Remove the machine screws to separate the basket from the support assembly.••• 1'/. Rout a 1/4" round-over completely around the outside face of each end panel. ft. Then. 17x31" vinyl-covered foam pad._ •. use it as a template to mark an identical support. Using the previously drilled Ys" holes in the upright supports as guides. layout the outline of one of the upright supports. and thread the screws through the bearings. Rout a 1/4" round-over on all edges of each support. ft.) Note: 3/. (See Sources for our buying guide for bearings.) Later. checking for square.••••·l ~ •. except on the bottom edges of the feet. Qty. Now. Tap a W' bearing into each %" hole in each upright. BC2. Or call 515/262-2705 to order. cut the uprights (I) and the feet (1) to the sizes listed in the Materials List. Sand the basket assembly smooth up through 220 grit. We recommend buying at least 15 percent extra for each project. (We left our cradle unstained and applied satin polyurethane. Materials Part A basket ends B basket ends C rails D slats E'spacers F'spacers G basket bottom H cleats I uprights 3/11 List T_ " fiNISHED W SIZE' L Mati. Glue and tap the dowels through the basket ends and into the rails. Remove the clamps. where shown on Drawing 3a. Using a helper to hold the basket between the uprights. Using Drawing 5 as a guide. Clamp together the doweled assembly. contact Sleepland. stand the basket on end. Touch-up sand if necessary." outside diameter.E. and apply the stain and finish.Mark the routing start and stop locations on the end panels. Materials key: WA-white ash. #6x1" flathead wood screws. glue. remove the masking from the bearings and T-nuts. Then. Cut the cross member (K) to size. 3/a"dowel stock. and thread it through the T-nut.3 bd. Lorna Johnson Final assembly 11/'6" 11/'6" J feet K cross member 31/4' 33" 11/'6" 'Parts initially cut oversize. Glue. IA 50313. contact Standard Bearings at 800/554-8123. and rout a W' roundover along the four edges (but not the ends) of the cross member. drill a pair of Ys" holes I" deep centered into each end of the cross member. 77 . Cut twelve :Y~x2" oak dowels. Downing Photograph: Bob Calmer Illustrations: Kim Downing.) woodmagazine. or go to standardbearings. a little extra material can save you a return trip to your lumber source. and glue and screw the cleats in position. x 7'/4 X 96" Ash (5. and clamp the cross member between the uprights. Later. Mask off the bearings and T-nuts._:__k~ •••. 14th. For current prices. '/4x11/2' brass flathead machine screws (2). Then. we sanded with 320-grit sandpaper. stopping where marked. Ball bearings. Position the end panels against the rails. drill each hole to the size and depth specified on the drawing.6 X 11'/4 x 96" Ash (10 bd. 1/4' hardboard ~~. and reattach the basket to the support assembly . where shown on Drawing 3. Cradle pad. ft. To attach the cleats (H). For the current price.) *2?1 © is cut from *Plane or resaw to the size listed in the Materials List. H-hardboard.

The large photo, left, shows the shelf painted all one color. Above, the shelf's top is finished with an aerosol faux-stone paint.

Add the crown molding
Purchase standard (no. 49) 11!16X37f16" crown molding for the crown front (D) and crown sides (E). (You'll need a 36" length for the 25"-long shelf, and a 48" length for the 37" shelf.) Miter one end of the piece for the crown front, mark its exact length, as shown in Photo A, and then miter-cut it to length. Cut the remaining piece of crown molding in half. and miter one end of each piece, for the mirror-image crown sides (E). Clamp the crown front in place, and then fit the crown side pieces, marking their exact lengths flush with the back (C). Trim the crown sides to length. Aligning the heels of the miters of the crown front (D) with the front corners of the bottom (B), glue and clamp it in place. Then glue and clamp the crown sides (E) in place. Make sure the flat bearing surfaces of the molding mate with the bottom surface of the top (A) and the front edge of the bottom (B), where shown on
Drawing 4.

High in style b inexpensive and easy to build
What can you make from a scrap length of crown molding and a piece of 1x8? How about thisstylish go-anywhere accent shelf.
omplete this project, from rummaging for materials to mounting it on the wall, in a weekend, and still have time for a round of golf. A simple, concealed hanging system gives the shelf a built-in look. The Materials List shows parts for shelves 25" and 37" long, but you can make a shelf of almost any length. router. Adjust it as shown on 1, and rout the profile along the top's ends and front edge, where shown on Drawing 2. Lower the bit, as shown on Drawing 3, and rout the partial profile along the bottom's ends and front edge. Cut the back (C) to size. To provide for concealed attachment to the wall, chuck a keyhole bit in your table-mounted router, and adjust it so the top of the bit is :y:~" above the table. Attach an auxiliary extension to your miter gauge, and clamp a stopblock to it to position the back's keyhole slot centers. where shown on Drawing 2. Rout the slots. Now install a dado blade in your tablesaw, and cut a W' groove Vs" deep, where shown on Drawing 4. Glue and clamp the top (A) and the bottom (B) to the back (C), where shown on Drawing 4. Keep the ends flush.



First,make the shelf frame
Cut the top (A) and bottom (B) to the sizes listed in the Materials List. Install a Y12"-radius roman ogee bit in your table-






Router table

Align the heel of the crown molding's mitered end with one corner of the bottom (8). Using a straightedge, mark the exact length flush with the bottom's opposite end. America's Best·EverWoodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006




On the mark drilling for keyhole slot screws


'V'6 X 37/'6" crown


Lt----Note: Standard crown molding (38°) miter angle=31 ,6° bevel angle=33.9°





== t

#8 x 11/2' screw


I----::::---'-"'-'-l\-~"l '12" groove

3/8" deep, centered

slot 3/a" deep

Apply a finish, and hang the shelf
Finish-sand the shelf to 220 grit. Apply primer, and sand lightly after it dries. Apply the finish color of your choice. (We sprayed on an aerosol al I-purpose white primer, and then sprayed both shelves with Rust-Oleum American Accents no. 7930 Blossom White. On on the 25" shelf, we masked the crown and bottom and sprayed the top with Rust-Oleum American Accents Stone Creations no. 7993 Green Marble, following the directions on the can. Finally, to protect the Green Marble paint, we top-coated it with Rust-Oleum American Accents clear matte finish.) Mark the shelf's location on the wall, and drill pilot holes into wall studs, or install wall anchors 16" on center. To

ensure accurate spacing and dead level alignment, see the Shop Tip, right. Drive #8xll/2" pan head screws, leaving about Y16" between the wall and the screw heads. Place the groove in the back (C) over the protruding screwheads, and move the shelf sideways unti I the keyhole slots drop onto the screwheads. Push down on the shelf until the screw heads contact the bottom face of the top (A). You may have to adjust the amount the screw heads protrude to get a snug-but not too tight-fit. Now rescue those old family photos from the trunk in the attic, and proudly display them for all to see.•
Written by Jan Svec with Jeff Mertz Project design: Jim Heavey Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson

The keyhole slots used for hanging this shelf require driving a pair of #8 pan head screws into the wall spaced exactly 16" apart and dead level. The photo, above, shows you how to accomplish this feat. First, drill a pair of holes in a scrap of 3/4"-thick stock 16" apart and 7/s" down from its top edge. Drill %4" holes for fastening into studs, as shown, or holes sized for wall anchors for fastening between studs. Use your drill press and its fence for accuracy. Apply a couple small pieces of double-faced tape to the back of the scrap, position its top edge where you want the top of the shelf to be, level it, and press it against the wall. Now, using the holes in the scrap as guides, drill holes in the wall. Remove the scrap, and drive screws into the wall studs, or insert wall anchors and drive the screws into them.

A top B bottom C back 0' crown front E' crown sides
-. ', -.
3/ ,4




L 25" 191/4' 191/4' 24" 5" 37" 311/4' 31W' 36" 5"

P P P PC PC 1 2

5'/2' 25/s" 23/8" 37/16" 37/,6" 5 '/ii' 2%" 23/8"

3/4' S,!,;'I





37" shell
A top B bottom C back 0' crown front

3/~n 3//
3/4" lV16



7V4 X 48" Poplar

(2.7 bd. ft.)

371,," 37M'

''116 X 37/'6 X 36" Crown



E' crown sides Materials


Cutting Diagram (37" shelf)

'Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions. key: P-poplar, PC-poplar crown molding. #8x1 '12" panhead screws, double-faced tape.

2 ;



Blades and bits: Ogee and keyhole router bits.

% X 7V4 X 72" Poplar

(4 bd. ft.)

Router bits. Freud 5/32'·radiusroman ogee bit no. 38· 100 (V~/' shank), $29.99, or no. 38·104 (1/2' shank), $29.99;
Freud keyhole bit no. 70·104, $19.99. Woodworker's Supply. Call 800/645·9292, or go to

"/,6 x 37/'6 x 48" Crown molding (no. 49)

l ~®,f$_®Q









:_. ~-





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& Shop Tips


cut a Y4" rabbet :Y:q" deep across the inside front and back ends of each drawer side. and clamp the pieces back together. or for a more traditional sealing of the unfinished butcher block. To replenish a board with lots of cut marks. Scrape the excess glue off both surfaces of each panel. where dimensioned on Drawing 2. check for square. B. Allow each coat to soak in for about five minutes and wipe off the excess with a clean paper towel. You'll need three aprons at 9" long each. Next. clamp the aprons to the top center lamination. You'll use the 37/16"-wide piece cut earlier from Panel 2 for the drawer front. Sand carefully to avoid creating high or low spots. Cut the same-sized grooves on the mating surface of each of the three 9" aprons and the 57/16" apron. 2.Z Cut 16 1/4x11/16X19Y4" splines. and clamp the aprons to the top center lamination. Use a framing square to keep the ends perfectly flush. cut a I" groove Ys"deep along the outside length of the sides (F). C) to the sizes listed in the Materials List and as shown on Drawing 1. checking for square. Glue. Don't forget to mark and drill the pair of mounting holes on the inside face of the drawer front (E) for attaching the drawer front lamination later. Crosscut the two panels into the finished lengths dimensioned on Drawing 1. With the correct layout determined. keeping the ends flush. lt's best to do cleanup immediately after use with a cloth damped with warm water. crosscut the ends of each blank for a 3JYx"finished length. Also. (You'll need a pair of flat laminations for a gap-free butcher-block top. centered along each face and end of each 21/2"strip (12 total). and one piece 37/16"long for the drawer front. the clamps and glue the mating edges. sand the surface smooth and re-oil. Dry-clamp the drawer together. After that. liberally apply several coats of warmed mineral oil. you'll need to cut these grooves in the face grain. we glued the two halves together to form each panel. Glue. and trim the opposite edge for a 3Ys" finished width. They should slide easily in the grooves in the drawer sides without 81 . Cut the corner pieces (D) to size. joint or plane equal amounts of the face-grain portion of each blank to keep the joint line centered on the blank. woodmagazine. Laminating the leg blanks Add a drawer to store your cutlery SHOPTIP11 You can apply the finish we used. as shown in Photo A. Repeat the process until the project will not absorb any more finish. Then glue and screw the drawer back together. there's no extra to trim-off later. Joint one laminated edge flush on each leg blank.) Leave each glued-up panel clamped up overnight before machining. and bottom (G) to the sizes listed in the Materials List and shown on Drawing 4. as the pattern is crucial to the good looks of the top. mark the panels I and 2 for ease in referring to the drawings. one apron 57/16"long.) Then.Start with two edge-joined laminations From l¥4"-thick maple (commonly called 8/4 stock). then glue and clamp the top strips together. remove How to feed and care for butcher-block projects Spread an even coat of glue on all mating surfaces. Dry-clamp the aprons to the center lamination to check the fit. remove any glue from the groove that wraps around the lamination. a reoiling every month or so is necessary to keep the surfaces sealed. Take your time. cut the lamination strips (A.) Cut the drawer front and back (E). face-to-face. spline. (We used hardboard. and dri II the countersunk mounting holes. as shown in Photo B. Use a damp cloth to wipe off the excess glue without forcing it into the end grain. (To keep the laminations manageable. Note that for the end grain to face up. Position the strips for Panels I and 2 in the configuration shown on Drawing 1. sides (F). Use a damp cloth to remove the excess glue. Then. we glued and clamped just half the pieces of each panel. Cut 1/4"grooves Ys"deep. Edge-join the pieces to form the two panels. glue. Then. Cut the drawer guides (H) to size. spline. Next. and sand smooth and nat. Using Drawing 4 for reference. Number the pieces to keep them in the correct order when edge-joining them. where dimensioned on Drawing Assemble the laminated maple top Position the 21/2"-wide strips in the configuration shown on Drawing 2. Be carefu I to joi n the aprons so the corners are just touching at the inside corners for a tight fit of the corner pieces (D). two pieces to form the blanks for each of the four legs. Using hardboard splines and glue. Then. Cut eight pieces of maple to I Y4x31/2X32" for the legs (I).

4" deep at each marked centerpoint.----. End of Leg detai I. the router bit wi II cut Ys" into the bottom leg end disc.I'lwf} s des_cdb_e_d ilelwJ. To rout the legs. Refer to the Shoulder Radius Routing detail To start the routing process. removing a small amount of stock with each pass. as shown in Photo C. raise the bit 1. Clamp the jig to a router table. When doing this.(We used an Amana #45984.) Cut two ¥4x5" discs to shape. You'll need accurate centerpoints later when machining the legs round.__ lathe or rout Ihem~/(). Clamp a 1/4" spacer to the right sropblock. Raise the bit 1" above the surface of the jig to make the first cut. as shown in Photo C and Drawing 6. Drill a 71r.4" and repeat the process for another series of cuts. nm ()II~I cun either 111m .. Remove stock from the shoulder to the bottom of the leg by sliding the leg from the right stopblock to the left stopblock. Lower the router bit so it is :y~"above the surface of the jig table. After you have gone all the way around the leg. cut a 6%" rabbet V{ deep on two adjacent sides of each 3Ys"-square leg blank. place the bottom end of the leg/disc against the right stopblock of the jig. where dimensioned on Drawing 5. W' grooves centered 82 America's Best-EverWoodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 . EJ ASSEMBLING THE TOP W' groove 3/8" deep. Rout the shoulder.Carefully draw diagonals on the ends of each leg to locate the centerpoints. Using a dado blade mounted to your tablesaw. and screw to both ends of one of the legs (I). Leg Routing detail. build the jig as shown in the Shop Tip on page 84 and the drawing opposite. which will be JOYs" from the top of the leg. Shoulder Radius Routing detail. (We attached a long piece of2lH-wide stock to our miter gauge for support when cutting the large rabbets in the long leg blanks. centered \ Apron from panel 1 2 3/8" deep. Continue moving the leg from right to left. Rotate the top of the leg toward you for each successive pass. as shown on Drawing 6 on page 85.~" pilot hole I 1. PANEL 1 Machining the four legs to shape NOlI': To shup« the legs.J {belli to shape . PANEL 2 Allow about 2" for waste. The spacer keeps the bit from roughing up the shoulder formed by the first cut in Step 3. where shown on Drawing 6. as shown on Drawing 6. Fit your router with a W' bowl bit with at least an overall bit length of 25/8". making sure the miter gauge was square to the blade.) nLAMINATIONS Allow about 2" for waste. as shown in Photo C..

5 bd." long #8 x 2" F.H.) '12 x 24 x 24" plywood woodmagazine. #8x2" flathead wood screws (6). #8x3" flathead wood screws (14). ft." round-overs VIEW Note: Towel bar can be mounted on either side.) 13/4 X 7'14 X 72" Maple (8 bd.) 13/4 X 5'12 x 96" Maple (8 bd. ft.) @ 13/4 X 5'12 x 96" Maple (8 bd. flathead wood screws (16). 15" MD 1" hole 3/8" deep with a hole centered inside. wood screw K hanger 1" diam.) (2 needed) 'Plane or resaw to the thickness listed in the Materials List. ft. -_ 3/8" lag screw 4" long l CD CD y. ft." round-overs BACK RIGHT LEG FRONT RIGHT LEG ~CD Cutting Diagram 13/4 X 5'12 x 96" Maple (8 bd. LM-Iaminated maple." 203. See the instructions.' 4 along all outside edges '\[0 • 3/8" ~Wdowel y. 13/4 X 7'14 x 96" Maple (10. clear finish. v. MD-maple dowel.s key: M-maple.f..7 bd. ft.Materials List A' strips B' strips C' strips D corners 13/4" 13// 1::')1. P-plywood." hole '/4" deep with a 5/32" shank hole centered inside 2i1a" 3¥a" 21/a" 1%" 6 4 6 4 2 2 13/<1" Drawer E front & back F sides ~I/ 3/~1I 1/2" _ ~ 2W' 2'i2" 15" 15/16~ G bottom H guides Y2" Legs I' legs _ 33/i" 33/a" C'~ 313/. #8xl1. Materiaf.1 D EXPLODED 36" 36" 36" 9" 14'// 20v.1/2" and 3/4' birch dowel stock for plugs. #8xl" flathead wood screws (12). Supplies: fa" lag screws 4" long with %' Ilat washers (14).com 83 . ft. mating pilot hole in end panel 1/4' hole 1%" deep 'Parts initially cut oversize.14" 21" M M M M M M P M LM 2 y.) 3/4 X 5'/2 X 60" Maple (2.

314" rabbet 3/8" deep

.... ....







Raise the bit to its final cutting depth of 11/10". The last cut should be very shallow (about 1/16") to make the 27/,~"-diameter leg as smooth as possible. Repeat the process for all four legs. Finish-sand all four legs. Move to your drill press, and drill the countersunk bolt holes in the top, flat surfaces of the legs. Note that the legs are mirrored right and left and that there are no lower holes in the front legs.

Note that there are no lower 3/a" holes in the fronl face of the front legs.


2%" diam.-




Final assembling and finishing
Using the dimensions on Drawing 2, carefully mark the hole center points on each corner piece (D). Drill the .%" holes 112" deep where marked. Next, drill a V,1" shank hole through the center of each :)/4" hole. One at a time, dry-clamp the corners (D) in place, and use the existing shank holes just drilled to drill mating pilot holes in the aprons. Now, glue and screw the corner pieces in place. With the top upside down, use the holes in the legs as guides to drill mating shank holes in the aprons. Mount the legs to the top with Ys" lag screws 4" long. Drill four countersunk mounting holes through each drawer guide (H), where shown on Drawing 3. Attach each guicie to the inside face of the legs with screws. Rout '14" round-overs on all outside edges of the butcher block top, where shown on Drawing 3. Finish-sand the butcher block table and drawer. Screw the laminated drawer front to the drawer box front (E). Using the full-size pattern (Drawing 7), transfer the pattern, and band saw the towel bar supports (1) to shape. Drill a pair of mounting holes in each support. Cut the hanger rod (K) to length from I" dowel stock. Glue and clamp the hanger rod between the supports. Finish-sand the


1/4' round-over

Turn round legs with a router
Even without a lathe, you can turn round legs in your shop. Here's a jig that works beautifully at your router table with a 3/4" bowl bit.

3/4" bowl bit
Position the leg on the routing jig with the bottom end of the leg/disc against the right-hand stopblock. Then, rout the first past.



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& Shop Tips


~f---'1:-2'-' ------------------





r-'1/2" hale) W'deep


shank hole, countersunk

shank hOle~ countersunk

(2 needed)

: ,


I I :

}- -i-,


, ,

1/2" hole '14" deep

hanger assembly. Next, dry-clamp the hanger assembly against the top, where dimensioned on Drawing 3. Use the holes in the supports (J) as guides to drill mating holes into one of the aprons. Attach the towel bar assembly to an apron. Crosscut 1/2" dowel stock to length, and plug the screw holes. Crosscut ¥4" dowel stock to the appropriate lengths, and plug the lag bolt holes in the corner pieces (D). Be careful when cutting the dowel plugs to length. You don't want them too stand to proud, as the end grain can burn easily when you sand the plugs flush with the surfaces of the corner pieces and aprons. Then, repeat the process with 1/2" dowel stock to plug the holes in the supports (J). Apply a clear finish. See "How to Feed and Care of Butcher-Block Projects" on page 81, or apply several coats of Behlens Salad Bowl Finish ...

1" hole W' deep on inside face \_---_

, ,, , '~\

,, ,

, ,



, ,, ,,

,, , ,,






Written by Marlen Kemmet Project Design: Dave Ashe Photographs: Hetherington Photography Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson


10%" to top of ~





1" T

bowl bit


3/4 X

5" disc



pilot hole 1'14" deep x 5" disc

5132" shank hole, countersunk


Notch for chip release

~'3f4" 3/." bowl bit



#8 x 2" F.H. wood screw Right stopblock 1 x 6 x 6" stock 3/," bowl bit raised 1" from surface of the jig


END OF LEG DETAIL 1/4" spacer ~ clamped to ~ stopblock






3/." bowl bit


Left stopblock 1 x 6 x 6" stock

Stop block


Cut and plane two pieces of stock (we selected white oak) to 1/4xP/8xI2". Then make a photocopy of the full-size patterns (Drawing 2). Spray-adhere the patterns to the wood blanks folding over the patterns where indicated. Drill a I/s" pin hole through each blank, where shown on the full-size patterns. Cut the blanks to shape using your band saw or scrollsaw. Also cut the long kerfs in each piece, where shown. Using a sanding block, sand the bevels on the hinge ends of the tong halves, where shown in Drawing 1. Also bevel the opposite ends, where shown. Steam-bend each piece to create the spring mechanism. To do this, saturate six paper towels with water, fold one, and place it between the two tong halves at the kerfed end. Wrap the remaining towels around the paired tongs. Place the tongs in the microwave and run it for two minutes at full power. Flip the tongs over and run them through another two-minute cycle.



:1 i



~~ ~
, s

J b "i'








With the beveled face of each piece down, push the microwaved tongs together until they overlap approximately 5".

Wearing gloves or oven mitts to protect your hands, remove the paper towels. Whi Ie the tong halves are sti II warm and wet, force them together, overlapping them about 5", as shown in Photo A. Allow the assembly to cool for one hour. Then separate the two halves, and sand each through 220 grit.



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& Shop Tips





LE-FT~ONG - - - - - - - - - - - -

-~-~;'~-'~,e -----------------------------------------


FULL-SIZE PATTERN (Outside face)
- - - --


Bevel edge with sanding block.

- - - -:--:-:-::-~---------1
RIGHT TONG FULL-SIZE PATTERN (Outside face) Join patterns here.




__ ~_~:-..~_::- L

Fold line


T ~----------------------------12"-----~

------------------------------------------------ -----------------------\- --------;111--------Hacksaw a J5/I6"-long piece of I;;~"brass rod and assemble the two blanks, slipping #6 brass washers in place, where shown in Drawing 1. Then use a hammer to peen both ends of the rod. Coat the tongs with three coats of mineral oil, and you're all set to toss some salad. Later, when it's time to clean the tongs, avoid placing in water or the dishwasher. Instead, use a cloth to wash them in warm soapy water. Then dry with a towel. Re-oil the wood whenever it appears and feels dried out. •
Project design: Jeff Mertz Illustr&tions: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson

V,,' kerfs


W hole, ~


»:': Join
patterns here.
1/32" kerfs

"' VO hoi"

_______________________________________________________________________ ')


I11',1 ',,: :



reattach the cutoffs to the block. mounting screws. Using double-faced tape. scrape and joint one edge. You'll find a convenient source for the serrated stainlesssteel blade. U Laminate the blanks together in the arrangement shown on Drawing 1. and some contrasting woods. cut another blank of the same size. To make it. Draw Jines to connect the pattems. Now. spray-adhere the top-view pattern pieces to one edge of the laminated block. and trim the block to 21I-lxI6". a drum sander.j"-thick cherry and maple or other contrasting woods of your choice. you'll need just a bandsaw. Bandsaw the block. connect the pattern lines. aligning them with the block's ends. thanks to its offset shape and special serrated blade. cut two 2YRxIT blanks from each. Then. But put this star performer to work and you'll get evenly sliced pieces every time. Then. and bandsaw again. Using l/. as shown in Photo A.and frontview handle patterns on page 90.laminate a block 88 America's Best-Ever Woodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 . as shown in Photo B. and leather bootlace in the Source. a router. When the glue dries. opposite. Cut apart the two pieces of each pattern. From JH'-thick an ordinary knife to slice bread and you'll end up with odd-shaped pieces and piJes of crumbs. adhere the frontview pattern pieces to the block's face. First. fashion 'the handle Photocopy the full-size top. the supplied patterns.

and peel off the tape. Now.) When the finish cures. Remove the blade from the handle.00 lor each additional kit. For more details. adhere the serrared blade to the handle.• Finish up Bandsaw the laminated block. 10W long Leather bootlace 8" long ( woodmagazine. Using a small piece of doublefaced tape at each end. Lorna Johnson stainless-steel pan head screw #6 X 1/2" Serrated blade. bandsaw just outside the pattern lines to complete the handle's shape. or go to schsons.00) are also available in cherry and maple or watnut and maple. Save the cutoffs for reattachment to the block. and knot the ends together. Using a countersink. chef's bookshelf. staying just outside the top-view pattern lines. form 1/8" chamfers on the hole's edges. 300BK. Now. drill pilot holes against the outside edge of the blade's screw holes. Round over areas that the router bit could not reach with a round file and sandpaper. Call Schlabaugh and Sons Woodworking. #6xW' stainless-steel panhead screws (2). Sand the handle to 320 grit. Add $9. Make the entire kitchen set Drill a 1/. and enjoy some fine slicing . 8" long. Source krt. apply two coats of a finish.2" drill bit. Order kit no. as shown in Photo C.95 ppd. Stainless-steel serrated blade. using a Y. 800/346·9663. (We used Watco Clear Danish Oil Finish. com/kltset. as shown in Photo C. Then. $12. Then. Other pieces linclude a matching pastry board and roIling pin. a pizza peel. drill 1/2"-deep pilot holes in the handle for the mounting screws.The bread knife is the latest member of our maple-and-cherry kitchen accessories. positioning the blade with its cutting edge tight against the scrap and its front end 1/8" back from the handle's end." strap hole through the handle. starting with 80-grit and working up to nO-grit sandpaper. go to woodmagaz I ne. With the front-view patterns adhered where shown. get a fresh loaf of bread. rout 1/4" round-overs along the handle's edges. leather Blade where shown on the front-view pattern. Insert an 8"-long piece of leather bootlace through the handle's 1/4" hole. Remove the patterns. Clamp the handle in a wood vise with a scrap board against its bottom. where shown on Drawing 2. Smooth all of the handle's surfaces using a ISO-grit sanding drum. 101/2' long. screw the blade to the handle. where shown on Drawing 2 and the patterns. Laminated handle blocks ($9. Written by Owen Duvall Project design: Kevin Boyle Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine. and the cookbook holder at 89 . o LAMINATED BLOCK 3/32" 1/2" deep pilot hole f) EXPLODED VIEW Handle To keep the blade tight between the screws.

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Then. and position a fence to center the bit on the face of part A. Here's a handsome one of oak that fillsthe bill. To do so. Rout grooves in all the parts Cut the base (A). Rout a centered Y'2" groove in the base (A). feed the workpiece from left to right to prevent climb cutting. (When the bit is cutting on the side farthest from the fence. install a W' straight bit in your table-mounted router. move the workpiece from right to left for the same reason. position the router-table fence to center the bit on the edge of one upright. Rout the base again. and repeat the operation. Rout the groove in the cap (C). slide the part to the other stopblock. Rout this groove the way you routed the base. placing stopblocks 57/16" from each side of the bit. uprights (B). where shown in Drawing 2. lower the workpiece onto the spinning router bit. where shown in Drawing 1. Turn the base end for 91 . To widen the groove. rout a Y. woodmagazine. move the fence slightly toward the bit. What's morel it's quick and easy to build.·i'. With one end of the base against the left stopblock. making one pass with each edge of the base against the fence. Adjust the cutting depth to YJ. Because the bit cuts into the wood on the side near the fence. To rout the groove. where shown on Drawing 2.2" groove the full length of one edge on each upright. Clamp stopblocks to the fence 61H' from the right side and left side of the bit.Ans& Crans A prized photo colts for a speciaJ frame. Then following the procedure above (but without stopblocks).) Rout the grooves in the uprights (B). and cap (C) to the dimensions shown in the Materials List.

1 X 41/4 x 61/4' clear acrylic (2 needed) Place the rabbeted insert between the two uprights (B).--------. and cut into it with the dado blade. A sharp chisel will do the job.6" chamfers Position the assembly on your drill-press table. Temporarily fasten it in place with doublefaced tape. il:l TENON DETAIL . 92 America's Best-Ever Woodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 . mark the dowel hole locations on the cap (C). Drill holes for the dowels Referring to the Drawing 2. then rabbet the edges where shown in Drawing 3. Adhere the upright pattern (B) to the stack. Back each piece with scrapwood to prevent chipout. and clamp the assembly together. and sand to it with a disc sander. Cut a piece of 3/1" scrapwood to size. Bandsaw the arch. Then sand to the line with a drum sander. Ease the outer corners of the tenons with a chisel to make them easier to fit into the routed groove in the base... install a %" dado blade on your tablesaw.-r-.-----____.... Square up the Ys" counterbores in the cap. Remove the cap. Adjust the blade to cut a IY64" rabbet Y16" deep on each face of the upright.-------. centering the bit over the mark at one end. 5/S" o EXPLODED VIEW 7/32' groove 3/. and enlarge the holes in the uprights to IY6')". To saw the tenons. and drill the other end.. Reclamp. Drill the W' counterbore and V. Form the tenon on the bottom of each upright (B).6" 0.Shape the base and uprights Photocopy the base pattern (Pattern 2).6" deep 7/. Make it picture-perfect Fasten the uprights together with doublefaced tape. SHOPTIP19 '/. staying slightly outside the pattern line.)" holes. Attach a scrapwood auxiliary fence to the saw's rip fence.' hole 15/S" deep -~!---~ = ~ 9/.6" chamfer '%. Reset the fence to saw a W' rabbet Y16" deep on the ungrooved edge of each upright.. Clamp the assembly to a fence on your drill-press table. and adhere the copy to one edge of the base CAl. as shown in the Shop Tip at left.. shown in Drawing 1a. Bandsaw the tapered edge slightly outside the line.

and dado blade. where shown. Sandwich your photo between the two sheets. woodmagazine. and install the cap to complete the frame .6" deep R=5V4' 1 '14" T7-r I 'I 3/16 11 ~B UPRIGHT 4" FULL-SIZE PATTERN (2 needed) ====::::r========= "" 7/32 groove 31. • 3/.EJ FULL-SIZE PATrERNS .------C-4---:--s-p-.=3 =s'=' s=q=u=a=re=co=u=n=t=er=b=o=re=vs="=d=e=e=p==~." straight bit.6" --------------------1-1 Install a chamfer bit in your tablemounted router.::::4_:-'---_h::::-_O::::-I_e~-_-~---.:'--13-V.1' acrylic sheet). Sand 1/16" chamfers at both ends.) Glue the dowels into the cap holes. Jan Svec Photography Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine. A miter gauge and extension will help when routing across the ends of the base (A) and cap (C).c='=/'=6'=' c=h=a=m=f=e=rSi!~ t====------~-+------------T-----------------~c~------------------------~--~---------7 I . Insert the cap dowels into their holes in the uprights for spacing.----t:=='5=V'=6'=' ~=+===7/3=2=" l' r:=5 '/ t / p A g=r=o=o=ve=3 =...:~~~-~--_----~--_----~--_----~-_----_---~--_----~--_----~6----3-v.• Project design: Schlabaugh and Sons. (Do not glue the '. Blades and bits: 1/. ---------- -------------- l__ 3/4" T "T 63/.-.--'~:~~~:7_. Apply a clear finish to all parts. Rout the 7/16" chamfer on the underside of the cap (C).{lrt A base B upright C cap _ _ _• T__.-<---.::e=e =========:::::.6" chamfers 17/64" hole 15/s" deep ~---- : . Lorna Johnson Photographs: Steve Struse.. Rout the 1/16" and 1/8" chamfers. (We cut the deep chamfer in 1/16" increments.P. Material Supplies: ~4" dowel. L Mati. Cut two pieces of glazing material (either single-strength window glass or 0.::::_-::::--~---_-::::-'_.6" deep V...."16 " 63/4' 9/32" deep r '/-1 'l!tl 2" 1'/411 F/a" 0 0 0 5/a" key: O-white oak. glazing (either single-strength glass or 0. chamfer bit. placing the rabbeted insert between the uprights to square them. and cut a Y16" length off each end to make the plugs.6" rabbets ._ '!! FINISHED SIZE '. slide them into the 93 . Hetherington g RABBETED 31. 7// 63'.-6'-' ::~~~: . this is how you remove the cap to change photos./'-'_6-'_' _ E::::--_-::::P_----A_-::::T_----:r_-::::_E_-----_R::::-_-N----_-::::-_-----~--_-----_-::::-_-----_-::::--~---_-::::-.6" rabbets INSERT 9/32" deep 63/s" RABBETED INSERT Materials List • _. Glue and clamp the uprights into the base.) Cut a piece of stock Ysx%x6". q_ty.4" dowels into the uprights. Glue them into the square counterbores in the cap.---J -c~h_a-_m~f_e_r /s"--r--l------------------6"-------------------------I1 '-------------------------------~------------------------------------------------- -----------1/s" chamfer ) ® BASE FULL-SIZE PATTERN 7/32" groove 3/. Finish-sand the cap. Finish-sand the base and uprights.:rl :.::::---F::::--U::::----_L--_L::::_-::::S~-I_Z::::-.1 "-thick acrylic) to 4 1/4X6 1/4".6="jd.

1 .: '.ndlv 94 ~" .

where shown on Drawing 2. hildren will enjoy sweet slumber for years to come with this versatile design... 23/8" initially.l3/8"i__ L. for a 211t"-square lamination. where shown on Drawing 1.4" round-overs on all edges. 1'12" deep after trimming r LI r- C 4" notch 19/'6" deep initially. where dimensioned. rout 1.. ® 7" notch 19/'6" deep initially. . 1 V2' deep after trimming (2W' finished size) 39x75" /ll'iIlIlUII/I'CSS. you'll learn how to make a single bed-to build bunk beds. you have a pair of twin beds. trim '/'6" off edges after laminating for 2W' finished width Trim to finished \ length after laminating and trimming _c--n bottom. Cut the notches in two leg parts (A) and two leg parts (B). woodmagazine. to assemble the legs. where shown. see woodmagazine. Cut the legs to the finished lengths by trimming the tops..) Clamp the legs 95 .. If the kids grow out of bunk beds at some point.....These traditionally styled bunks kick off our latest children's bedroom set. The legs are initially oversized 1/8" in width and 2" in length. trim '/'6" off edges after laminating for 2'14" finished width Trim to finished length after laminating and trimming bottom. Joint or rip 1/16"from two sides of each leg. Remove excess glue from the edges and inside the mortises. (We used white glue.. To assemble the legs. first refer to the Shop Tip on page 96. --~...comlbedsets. The notches form mortises in the finished laminated legs.. The edges are jointed or ripped and the ends are trimmed after the legs are laminated. just make two of these beds.6" deep initially. ! rI 4" notch 19/. using a bandsaw or a tablesaw fitted with a W' dado blade. 1 '12" deep after trimming ® 7 V>" ® 7'12" [~ (2'14" finished size) ----i3/s" '-- Trim bottom end after laminating. Apply glue and assemble the legs CA. Finally. Build them as bunks or twins. YOI/'/! need 10 adjust. voila]. cut six headboard leg parts (A) to 2Ysx42" and six footboard leg parts (B) to 23/sx33".. B) in the configuration shown on Drawing 1. In this article._. IFOrthese plans. . simply slip out the unglued dowels and. o LEG ASSEMBLIES 23/8" initially. which has a longer working time. I ) L .. as shown in Photo A on page 96. hal dimensions accordinglvfor a d~tie/'elll This dresser and a matching des'~ are part of a bedroom ensemble. trim the bottom of each leg 71/2" below the 7" mortise. stack them one atop another with bed-joining dowels. Then. . keeping the ends and edges flush. where shown on Drawing 2. and add the ladder and guardrails as described. 1'12" deep after trimming LEG 33" (31" finished length) FOOTBOARD 19'12" HEADBOARD LEG Start with the legs From 3/4"-thick stock. Note: 'l'hic!o' ed design b accommodates a 42" (40" finished length) 7" notch 19/'6" deep initially.

. and drive a couple of nails through the waste area as you assemble them. both ends #8 x 11/2"F.~ '/.) . .H." roundover Wroundovers i 1---""15. B EXPLODED VIEW EI::l POST CAP & LEG DETAIL 1i2"rO~und-~:_~.1i!lJ!.''' :. drill a '. Using the jig and a stopblock on your drill bit. . "'here shown /!II Drawing 2.. countersunk M ~--~ 2V4' %" '/. ~. dowels . centered -= U: ~. wood screw '12" hole 2" deep. To prevent this. no round-over on bottom inside edge."hole 7/a" deep :-. Keep the nails away from the cutline so you won't hit them with your saw blade.~ ~ .... centered (For footboard only when ioinino bunk beds.... shown on Drawing 3.---__ L--~ 5/32" shank hole..'51. and drill 1/2" holes 2" deep 10 receive the hed-JillJ.~. centered in the top of the legs. as shown in Photo B.4" hole 7/s" deep to receive the postcap alignment pin (N). .. such as the laminated legs in this project. After laminating the legs. clamp them together with the mortises up. '/4' round-overs (Round-overs stop 1" from ends.. An easy way to keep face-glued parts aligned Face-glued parts.-...#8 x 1W F.!. No-mortise bed rail fittings \ 1/a" chamfers.H..'-" . cut the parts slightly oversized (as you did for the legs). drill '11" holes 2" deep. where shown on Drawing 2a.. 96 America's Best-EverWoodworking Projects & Shop Tips 2006 . - o . to receive the post-cap dowels (0).) Make the hole-drilling jig. have a tendency to slip out of position when you clamp them. making sure that their top edges are flush. Also. positicn: the jig (J/I the bottotn 0/ the footboard legs._---~ ~ 1/2' hole 2" deep.» . .

Cut four spacers (I) and eight spacers (1) to size.jxlx2" stopbJocks to a rail. first clamp two Y. where shown on Drawing 2. as shown.. rip four Ysx II W' blanks for the footboard edging (G) and four .. Note that the notch dimensions differ slightly from those shown on Drawings 97 . first refer to the Shop Tip. use this rail as a template to mark the contour on the other top rail. A simple jig for forming stopped round-overs We made the handy jigs.. After the glue dries. stopping the round-over at the desired location. cut the footboard panels (E) and the headboard panels (F) to size. Rip a l/s"-thick wood fairing strip 42" long. Cut and sand to shape. both ends TOP RAIL '12" groove '12" deep. where shown. where shown on Drawings 2 and 4. with the stopblocks' bottoms positioned 4" from the bottom of the rail and their inside edges positioned 2" from the ends. From 1/2" oak plywood.. To use one jig.~ __ 1------ 20"------1 1/a" chamfers.. rout W' cham- ====f==-~J==3" ~""'( I -""-- ·'--~-----------1"1 ~ 2. where dimensioned. Then. J R= 55'/2" • . Layout the arch on the top rails. centered f------------40"----------~_t '12" groove '12" deep. For an easy way to do this. cut a 1/2"groove 1/2"deep.. 21/a" for parts 13/'6" for part 2' '1'6" for parts ® ® and @) © and @ -.. to receive the footboard panel assemblies (EI G) and headboard panel assemblies (FIH).. centered 5/32" shank hole. layout the arch on the bottom rails. using a compass. Round-over stops Position the hole-drilling jig with the handle opposite the mortised side of the leg.1 i Next up: the headboard and footboard Cut the top rails (C) and bottom rails (D) for the headboard and footboard to the size listed in the Materials List.DHOLE-DRILLING JIG [J HEADBOARD AND FOOTBOARD RAILS f-------- 40"----------------11 ________________________________ Round-over stops 2" from each end. Using the same process as for the top rails. Then. Sand the cut edges smooth. This is to compensate for the difference between the pilot bearing and bit diameters and the curved surfaces on parts C and D.. woodmagazine. trim the edging flush to the panels.. Use a fence for the 2" straight cuts into the ends of the rail to ensure the tenons make a good fit in the legs. Then. Mark the center of the spacers (I) across the grain on one of their faces. shown at right... Now. your bit's pilot bearing will contact the jig. Repeat on the opposite edge. cut and sand it to shape. mark the 31/2" radius at the top of the rail..j"-thick oak. where shown on Drawings 2 and 4.4" round-over _ . centered in the rails.1-i• T 20"----~·-l 1 R= 55'12" BOTTOM RAIL j 7" 2" from each end. one at each end of the intended arch. Rout the 114" stopped round-overs on the top and bottom rails. Place the strip against the stopblocks. as shown far right. When routing. with the applicable stopblock positioned on an end of a rail. Bandsaw the top of the rail to shape.. to make a round-over stopblock jig. and flex it so its bottom is flush with the top edge of the rail at its center.. Make sure the clamp will not interfere with the router. 7" I ~" w . Mark the arch. To do this.vsx201/2" blanks for the headboard edging (H). Reposition the stopblock at the other end of the rail and repeat the process to complete the round-overs. fers on the ends of the rails. and 7 for stopping the round-overs. countersunk @ '. Glue the edging to the panels with a 1/16" overhang on each face. From l/. 4. clamp it to the end of a board. Then.. Use the holes in the handle as guides for drilling. to form the stopped round-overs for this project. below. ~ -~~::~ _. where shown on Drawing 4. ease the W' round-over bit into an edge at the center of a rail and rout to the stopblock. To ease insertion of the rails into the legs and provide room for glue squeeze-out.J l Clamp the applicable round-over stopblock with the notch tight against the end of the board.

lelllhlJm.Note: Eoi: 11." below left. Use a gauge block for consistent cuts. and drive the mounting screws. Cut a 1" length from each end of the blank to separate two post cap pieces. cut the 1/4"-diameter alignment pins and 1/2"-diameter cap dowels to the lengths listed. where shown on Drawing 2a. Referring to Drawing 2. Centering on the holes in the fittings. on the bottom of each cap. Position a cleat on the inside face of a bedrail (P) with the bottom edges flush and centered end to end. then position the platform on the cleats. To form the caps (M).~"deep in the cap to receive an alignment pin (N) and a cap dowel (0).J. E/G. Glue a pin in each cap. round over its corners. assemble the bedrails to the headboard and footboard by engaging the bedrail fittings. and rout a 14" round-over on its bottom edges. rout 1/4" stopped round-overs on all edges of the bedrails except for the bottom inside edge. with each cap vertical. and clamp.. refit your router with a 14" round-over bit. Dri II countersunk shank holes in the platform. Position a cleat on the inside face of the footboard and headboard bottom rails. Now. round over all edges of the blank at both ends. Fashion the post caps From III"-thick oak. After verifying the fit of the assembly.1I1lk bed». where shown. checking for square. D/I. Clamp a cap in the hole-drilling jig with the base against the jig handle. Using the holes in the cleats as guides.1·. Using the holes in the cleat as guides. CII. "How to cut post caps in four quick steps. J). then screw the cleats in place. where shown. Cut the cleats (K) to size. drill pilot holes in the bedrails and legs to the depths shown.._ . Drill countersunk shank holes in the cleats for the mounting screws. Rout a W' round-over on the bottom inside edge of the cleats. Make a few extra cap blanks in case any get damaged during machining. mark a centerline across the grain on one face of each rail. drill pilot Chuck a W' round-over bit in your tablemounted router. cut the mattress platform (R) to size.!JJ:J Rlwrdrui/s later . aru! set aside for 1I. Cut a Y4x2114" notch in each corner of the platform. 3" from the top and centered end to end. centered. Using a stopblock with a 1"-long notch. Now. Allow the glue to dry. and drive the screws. where shown on Drawing 2.. Without moving your router table fence. J) with the spacers. using a vise or clamp to squeeze the pin into the hole. make lour mIdi tiona! spacers (I) (11111 dglu additiona! spacers J. Use a backer board to prevent tear-out. dry-assemble (no glue) the headboard members (A. Then. CIl.. Assemble the other cleat and bedrail. where dimensioned on Drawing 5. Repeat for all caps. glue a spacer into the groove in each top and bottom rail with the centerlines aligned. cut the post cap bases (L) to size. From oak dowels. Also. How to cut post caps in 4 quick steps Add the bedrails and mattress platform Cut the bedrails (P) to size. as shown in Photo C. where shown. glue and clamp the members together. where shown. Repeat Steps 1-4 to shape additional caps. where shown on Drawing 2. first laminate three W' -thick pieces to form a 21I1x21/4xI8" blank the same way you made the legs. Then. F/H. Following the same process. Using the same router table setup. 98 America's Best-Ever Woodworking Projects 8r Shop Tips 2006 . make two 37"-long spacers. Drill 1/4" and V2" holes 7. drill pilot holes in the rails. where shown.l J. Assemble the headboard and footboard with 37"-long spacers to ensure exact leg positioning for bed alignment. DIl.. Position the block behind the saw blade so the cap cannot become pinched.J From scrap. Using the holes in the platform as guides. Position the bedrail fittings on the bedrails and legs. Then. and lightly sand all edges. again using a backer board for support and to prevent tear-out. glue and clamp a base (L). Cut the cleats (Q) to size. On a tlat surface. drill pilot holes in the bedrail. With your fence(s) flush with the bit's pilot bearing.. Sand the edges of the caps and the transitions from the 1/4" to 1/2" roundovers smooth. assemble the footboard members (B. place each cap bottom face down on the table. Now.. Dri II countersunk shank holes in each cleat.. glue a cap dowel in each cap. form the caps from the blank as shown in the sidebar.

. 5/32" shank hole.. 21/4' notches 19/'6" deep initially. trim V'6" off edges after laminating for 2V4' finished width [) GUARDRAIL LEG Trim 3/4' off bottom end after laminating. U) in the configuration shown. As explained in the Shop Tip on page 96. trim %" off the bottom.H. "cor 5/32" shank hole. wood screw (mounted into bedrail ®) Va" chamfers... nail only through the waste at the top end as you assemble the legs. centered 1/4' round-overs #8 x 11/4' F. Clamp the legs together.. Rout 1/-1" round-overs on the edges of the legs.. where shown on Drawing 7. From Y. to receive the long and short panels (X. to clear the mattress platform.) o GUARDRAILS From 1/2"-diameter oak dowel. Now. On the outside leg (T) of each leg assembly that will go inside the bed. centered in the rails.H.... When the glue is dry. where shown. Now. where dimensioned on Drawing 6. @ wood screw ----------. make dowels and guardrails W' round-over LONG GUARDRAIL (Inside face shown) Round-over stops 2'12" from each end. where shown. countersunk '/4' round-over wood magazine. holes in the cleats to the depth shown. Sand a light chamfer on both ends of the dowels to ease insertion into the legs.. #8 x 1 Vi' F. drill countersunk shank holes in the lower face of the shortened outside legs (T) for attaching the legs to the bedrails. wood screw 7'/2' Small end of slot down J1 ~ . Using a For bunk beds.... cut the bed-joining dowels (S) to the length listed. 1 '/2" deep after trimming ) ... keeping the ends and edges flush. apply glue and assemble the legs (T.. and cut the I" of waste off the top. Y). 23/a" initially. Cut the long rails (V) and the short rails (W) to size.H. (You'll need to slightly angle your drill to clear the bedrail when drilling the platform holes..H. wood screw (mounted into bed rail ®) '/2" groove '12"deep. com 99 . and drive the screws. both ends #8 x 11/4' F. rout 1/8" chamfers on the ends of the rails. Cut a 1/2" groove 1/2" deep. Then.-I 2V2" I In Va" chamfers. where shown. countersunk 1j4'round-overs - .. cut eight 2YRx17W' blanks for the guardrail outside legs (T) and four 2Ysx 14-Y4"blanks for the inside legs (U). both ends '12" groove '12" deep. centered SHORT GUARDRAIL (Used with ladder. joint or rip 1/16" of material off two edges of each leg for a 21/4"-square lamination. outside face shown) \_~ . as in Photo A.~ BEDRAIL FITTINGS 7/64" pilot hole 5/a" deep 7/64" pilot hole 1 '/2" deep --{~ ® 7" Engagement stud l 3/4' ---lnSide face 173/4' (16" finished size) ..j"-thick stock. Cut the notches in the inside legs.#8 X 5/a" F.