Kasuti Kasuti is a form of embroidery that comes from the state of Karnataka inIndia.

It resembles the embroidery of Austria, Hungary and Spain. It is a domestic art that has now taken on commercial forms. Kasuti means embroidery in Kannada, the language that is spoken in Karnataka. Kasuti is also known as Kashida.
The Chalukya dynasty played an important role in the revival of art, culture and learning. They encouraged cults of lord Shiva and built temples all over the south; the prominent among these are the cave temples of Badami, temples of Madurai, Thanjore and Kanchipuram. The women who witnessed these building operations gave expression to their artistic urge through some colorful artwork such as Kasuti. Hindu motifs are predominant in kasuti, muslim influence is completely absent. Factors influencing choice of motifs are religion, architecture and objects of daily use. They are taken from gopuram (temple tops) lotus flower, palinquin, cradles, birds and animals like- swans, peacocks, squirrels, elephants, nandi or sacred bull. One rarely finds lions, tigers and horses, but dogs and cats are never seen. The stitches used are: Gavanti: a double running stitch, the name is derived from the word gaonti which means knot. The design appears identical on both sides. Patterns are mostly geometric, stitches are worked in vertical, horizontal or diagonal directions only. Murgii : appears like steps of a ladder, the design appears same from both sides of the fabric, the distance between two stitches is the same and looks quite like the gavanti. Negi: this is an ordinary running or darning stitch, it has an all over effect of a woven design. The name comes from the word ³ney´ which means to weave in Kannada. Menthi; this is the regular cross stitch. The name is derived from the word µfenugreek seeds¶ in Kannada. The threads used for embroidery were drawn from the fabric itself or they used silk thread from Mysore. Colors used predominantly are orange, purple, green and red. Women embroidered sarees, bonnets, skirts and blouses

Kasuti - Etymology Kasuti can be broken down to ky - hand , suti- weave. Kasuti is called Kashida in North India. Features

Tulasi. These saris had a distinct style. which forms the base of the embroidery to follow.which were taken directly from the weavers of the Ilkal saris.Chalukya court influence was the .becoming small flowers and dots. various designs include Dagabaji Gopura.a 4" of border. Appearing same on both the sides. Kayapatti. which hung from the pallav area. Gundala Gopura etc.or a tree with peacocks or flowers and this distribution of motis grows sparse as it travels away from the pallav. The various themes that are embroidered in Kasuti are that of gopuram. chariots. bells. which were saris. Kasuti embroidery is done above this pallav in a border called bugadi. These are woven in cotton and silk. This continous border is worked in gavanti stitch. This way the colours used in the embroidery blended well and the combinations were never garnish. animals etc. The Dark background of Ilkal sari provide a good base for the colors used in Kasuti embroidery. Later weavers sold these saris with 10" of extra silk thread in the wrap.kunchis(bonnets) and lahngas or skirts. temple sculpture. which was generally in deep shades of red and this enveloped a well woven sari with a red pallav carrying white panels called tope and tenni. The most readily available medium they could use was their daily clothing. Than the geometrical designs of the Kasuti have been educed from the temple structure. Influences Kasuti embroidery is every rich in symbolic motifs as the finest examples of this embroidery are found where vijaynagar . Gopi Kamala Chittu Kamala.Kasuti was done on Ilkal saris woven in North Karnataka town called Ilkal in pit looms. Which are worked into the pleats of the sari. flowers. After this the large patterns on the sari emerge. The Chariot Ratha.cholis. Originally this embroidery was done by women with silk threads. Vankipatti. Gandolagida.which has been known to mean knot stitch or rural stitch.

maybe a palanquin.strongest. In fact the use of indigo as warp was mandatory in Ilkal sarees and thus the different colours woven would have light and shade effect.you will be considered as a woman) same as Chandrkala tradition also practiced in Nanded. the end of the design coincides with the beginning. A small straight stitch is placed at the beginning and end. Among the Lingayats a hand embroidery khun or choli was considered a most appropriate gift for an expectant mother. There is no knot used in the beginning or end of the thread. Both sides are identical.beautifully sculptured edifices with exquisite patterns. The German missionaries put a school and hospital in North karnataka and the school also has kasuti weaving in their curriculum. A Chandrakali sari taken by the bride as she goes to her husband house was traditionally woven with indio dyed warp and black weft. it was customary for brides to be presented with blue black Ilkal saris with kasuti embroidery on it. An interesting information is the kasuti is mentioned in bible as per the christian weavers of kasuti. Guru Nanak(1469-1538AD) says Kadh kasida pahreh choli tan tu jane nari(only when you can embroidery of your own costume . However complicated the design. kannada bible shows the kasuti in the book of exodus. cavees. shrines. Religion and Kasuti Until recently. the present Bijapur and Dharwad area's. the girls themselves embroidered this sari known as chandrakali sari. which is ridden by horseman. one may find horse. Hence the inspiration of these womenfolk were symbols and designs which came from the temples. . the flora and fauna of the region. which might take her to her husband's home or two love birds right in the middle of nowhere. The dreams and desires of these young girls find experssion in these embroidery pieces. Along the border. In earlier days. and anything that their eyes could relate to. chapter 26 shows emboridery and kasuti. which is nine yard Ilkal sari to be readied for their marrige.Good Omen. Technique The most remarkable feature about kasuti is that there is no right or wrong side. The Chandrakala was considered Shubha Shagun.

Now the designs are traced on paper or loosely woven gauge.by counting the same number of threads). which is then pulled off after completing the work . all based originally on the counted thread method(equi distance running stitches. allow many people to work on the same pattern and a change in the working hands does nto affect the final design.Kasuti can be described as a delicate embroidery wit geometric designs which when worked very closely can make dramatic patterns. A combination of four main stitches.

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