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.....................73 St James’s ..............................................46 Festivals and events ............................................16 London pubs .....169 Hampstead and Highgate .....186 Hampton Court .................... Knightsbridge and Chelsea..........................................................113 Clerkenwell ...................... B&Bs and hostels ............................85 Marylebone .........................117 The City........................10 What to eat .......................................................................................91 Soho ....................................................................95 Bloomsbury...........................................146 Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens ........................................14 Gay and lesbian London ........................................................106 Central London The West End Underground Seeing the sights by Bus – Useful Routes .56 Tudor and Stuart London .......................................................52 Musical London.......................................................................40 Riverside London.........79 Piccadilly and Mayfair ...128 The Tower and Docklands .......32 Indulgent London ..............54 Contemporary architecture ....158 High Street Kensington to Notting Hill .................210 Entertainment ........50 London on stage ............48 Queasy London ....................18 Art galleries..............209 Information ......................20 Royal London .......................62 Holborn ...............................................................3 Contents Introduction Ideas 4 9 The big six sights ....30 Kids’ London ......................................................................................................122 Hoxton and Spitalfields ....................44 London from up high...34 Club-bars ....................................212 Festivals and Events ..............................................134 South Bank and around................60 Afternoon tea ..............................174 Greenwich................................................................140 Bankside and Southwark..........................................................................180 Kew and Richmond ...........197 Essentials 207 Arrival ...............164 Regent’s Park and Camden ....................................................153 South Kensington................38 Dead London.....................22 Gourmet London .........192 CONTENTS Accommodation 195 Hotels............................101 Covent Garden ..........................28 Diverse London .......67 Westminster .................216 Places 65 Index Colour Maps 219 Trafalgar Square and Whitehall ................214 Directory ...................................26 Churches....12 London outdoors ............42 Free London ...58 Literary and artistic London..........................36 Victorian London .........210 City transport .......................................................................................24 Museums .......
However. while the winters (average daily temperature 6–10°C) don’t get very cold – though they’re often wet. when you’ll need to book your accommodation well in advance. With no single predominant focus of interest. Contents Introduction . tourists stream into London pretty much all year round. offering cultural and culinary delights from right across the globe. whenever you come.4 Introduction to INTRODUCTION London London is a very big city. it’s also Europe’s most diverse metropolis. In fact. and with a population of just under eight million. English summers rarely get unbearably hot. the city can seem bewilderingly amorphous to newcomers. stretching for more than thirty miles on either side of the River Thames. and the biggest crush in July and August. Ethnically and linguistically. be prepared for all eventualities. with peak season from Easter to October. As far as crowds go. in 2003. it’s impossible to say with any degree of certainty that the weather will be pleasant in any given month. London finally has an elected assembly and a mayor who’s busy tackling longstanding problems such as public transport. summer temperatures hit almost 40°C. With average daily temperatures of around 22°C.The key to enjoying London is not to try and do everything in a When to visit Despite the temperateness of the English climate. And after sixteen years of being the only major city in the world not to have its own governing body. it’s Europe’s largest capital by far.
as well as the Millennium Bridge.Things change fast. galleries and institutions have been reinvented. from the Royal Opera House to the British Museum. virtually all of London’s world-class museums. the first new Thames crossing for over a hundred years. Brick Lane Introduction . and the capital’s traditional sights – Big Ben. Buckingham Palace. though. from medieval banqueting halls and the “Banglatown”.5 INTRODUCTION Piccadilly Circus single visit – concentrate on one or two areas and you’ll get a lot more out of the place. Since the millennium. Westminster Abbey. and the mushrooming crop of new attractions ensure that there’s plenty to do even for those who’ve visited before. Monuments from the capital’s glorious past are everywhere. the city can now boast the world’s largest modern art gallery and Ferris wheel.With the Tate Modern and the Contents London Eye. London has always been an enthralling city. St Paul’s Cathedral and the Tower of London – continue to draw in millions of tourists every year.
clubbing and gay/lesbian scenes are second to none. Sunset over the the Thames Contents Introduction . but its restaurants are now an attraction too. the narrow alleyways of the City of London. and mainstream arts are no less exciting. And London is offset by surprisingly large expanses of greenery. You could spend days just shopping in London. mixing with the upper classes in the “tiara triangle” around Harrods. the riverside walks. or sampling the offbeat weekend markets of INTRODUCTION Berkeley Square Portobello Road.There’s also much enjoyment to be had from the city’s quiet Georgian squares. Camden and Greenwich. with regular opportunities to catch first-rate theatre companies. with everything from three-star Michelin establishments to low-cost. exhibitions and opera. too. with several large public parks right in the centre as well as wilder spaces on the outskirts. and the assorted quirks of what is still identifiably a collection of villages. high-quality Chinese restaurants and Indian curry houses. dance troupes.6 great churches of Christopher Wren to the eclectic Victorian architecture of the triumphalist British Empire. The music. The city’s pubs have always had heaps of atmosphere.
Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre and several more sights in neighbouring Southwark. Soho by night Cutty Sark.7 LONDON AT A GLANCE INTRODUCTION Soho The headquarters of hedonistic London. cobbled piazza and fantastic range of shops. Greenwich makes the most of its riverside setting. Bankside and Southwark Covent Garden With its big covered market hall. Soho is the heart of the West End entertainment district. cafés and restaurants. a bustling weekend market and the famous Greenwich Meridian. a royal park. traffic-becalmed Covent Garden is justifiably many visitors’ favourite slice of central London. cinemas. Covent Garden Piazza Contents Introduction . with the city’s largest concentration of theatres. Greenwich Greenwich Well worth the boat or train journey from central London. clubs. with heaps of maritime sights. while dishing out great views over the water to St Paul’s Cathedral. The traffic-free riverside path takes you past the Tate Modern. bars.
Big Ben and the striking Abbey and Cathedral.8 INTRODUCTION Natural History Museum South Kensington A fashionably smart part of London in its own right. Science. Hampstead has managed to retain a more village-like feel than any other London suburb and boasts the wild open space of the Heath as well as a clutch of intriguing small museums. and Victoria & Albert. South Kensington is also home to the city’s most impressive trio of free museums: the Natural History. Hampstead Heath Contents Introduction . Westminster easily justifies its status as one of London’s busiest tourist honeypots. Westminster Home to the Houses of Parliament. Hampstead Although buzzing with cosmopolitan life.
Ideas Contents Ideas .
P. but amongst the well-known sights. while the elegance of the London Eye and the stunning collection housed in the Tate Modern have captured the imagination of today’s visitors like no other sights. the “big six” really do live up to their hype.142 SOUTH BANK AND AROUND Contents Ideas . obscure attractions and esoteric shops.10 London has lots of hidden corners. Westminster Abbey and the Tower of London have justifiably been pulling in the crowds for centuries. The big six sights Tate Modern Austere former power station that’s now an awesome cathedral to modern art.147 BANKSIDE AND SOUTHWARK London Eye The world’s largest ferris wheel is a graceful new addition to the London skyline. P. the British Museum and the National Gallery have grown in popularity over the last hundred years or so.
67 TRAFALGAR SQUARE AND WHITEHALL Westminster Abbey Venue for every coronation since William the Conqueror and resting place of countless kings and queens.101 BLOOMSBURY Contents Ideas . the abbey is an essential stop on any London tour.134 THE TOWER AND DOCKLANDS British Museum London’s most popular museum. P. from Giotto to Picasso. P. site of some of the goriest events in the nation’s history and somewhere everyone should visit at least once. P. P.11 National Gallery The vast range of work here.75 WESTMINSTER Tower of London England’s most perfectly preserved medieval fortress. worth a visit for its glazed-over Great Court and magnificent Round Reading Room alone. ensures that there’s something for everyone.
London is now one of the curry capitals of the world. Sri Lanka and Pakistan as well as all the Indian regions.167 HIGH STREET KENSINGTON TO NOTTING HILL Curry Attracting top-notch chefs from Bangladesh. Nepal. P. You can sample pretty much every kind of cuisine here. What to eat Fish and chips The national dish – fish in batter with deep-fried potato chips – remains as popular and tasty as ever. and has some very good French.133 HOXTON AND SPITALFIELDS Contents Ideas .12 London is an exciting – though often expensive – place in which to eat out. Spanish and Thai eateries. Italian. P. Indeed. London can boast some of the best Cantonese restaurants in the whole of Europe. from traditional and modern British food to Georgian and Peruvian. Greek. is a noted centre for Indian and Bangladeshi food. Japanese.
Michelinstarred haute cuisine. P.163 SOUTH KENSINGTON. wholesome. ranging from small. P. P. P.120 CLERKENWELL Vegetarian London has a vast range of exclusively veggie eating places.13 Dim Sum This bargain spread of dumplings and other little morsels is a Cantonese lunchtime ritual. informal cafés to smart à la carte restaurants.99 SOHO Haute cuisine The capital now boasts an impressive array of restaurants serving top-notch. mashed potatoes and “liquor” (parsley sauce). KNIGHTSBRIDGE AND CHELSEA Pie and mash London’s most peculiar culinary speciality: minced beef and gravy pie.110 COVENT GARDEN Contents Ideas .
this is London’s most picturesque place to skate. London outdoors Hampstead Ponds Tucked amidst woodland.175 HAMPSTEAD AND HIGHGATE Somerset House ice rink Set up each winter in the eighteenthcentury courtyard of Somerset House. and the winter a little damp.14 Summer can be unpredictable. the Heath’s natural ponds are extremely popular for alfresco summer swimming. P. and in the summer there are several little-known spots where you can enjoy an alfresco dip.217 ESSENTIALS Contents Ideas . but Londoners get out and enjoy the great outdoors whatever the weather. boats ply up and down the Thames throughout the year. P. Temporary outdoor ice rinks are a regular feature of the winter season.
P. croquet matches and brass-band concerts. this secret oasis of green is great for picnics.15 Boat trip on the Thames Zig-zag your way from pier to pier on the central section of the Thames. antiques. or take longer trips downriver to Greenwich or upstream to Kew and Richmond. P.216 ESSENTIALS Westminster Abbey College Gardens Hidden behind the abbey.76 WESTMINSTER Portobello Road Market London’s best street market (Fri & Sat) offers brilliant retro clothes. bric-a-brac.165 HIGH STREET KENSINGTON TO NOTTING HILL Contents Ideas . P. and fruit and veg.
diverse and well established that it’s easy to forget just how much it has grown over the last few years. gay liberation to gay lifestyle. and some rather risqué shops. P. self-assured and unashamedly commercial. Pink power has given rise to the pink pound. Old Compton Street Lined with upfront bars and cafés. happy to embrace and sometimes dip into the city’s queer offerings. and everexpanding Soho – now firmly established as the homo heart of the city – is vibrant. on the whole.97 SOHO First Out The West End’s original gay café-bar still draws in the crowds. As a result of all this highprofile activity.112 COVENT GARDEN Contents Ideas . this Soho drag is Gay London’s main street.16 Gay and lesbian London London’s lesbian and gay scene is so huge. straight Londoners tend to be a fairly homo-savvy bunch and. P. and runs a popular weekly pre-club session for women each Friday.
P.17 Chariots Roman Baths London’s largest and most fabulous gay sauna features everything you could wish for in the way of hot and sweaty nights indoors.215 ESSENTIALS Contents Ideas . ticketed party in a park.218 ESSENTIALS Candy Bar Central London’s hottest girl-bar is a cruisey. upbeat spot that’s open until the early hours on the weekend.100 SOHO Pride in the Park/Mardi Gras The up-for-it carnival child of Gay Pride. P. featuring a whistle-blowing parade through London followed by a huge. P.
pubs remain the focal point of London’s communities. alternative comedy and live music as well as a pint. there are also plenty of genuine. evocative late nineteenth-century interiors.112 COVENT GARDEN Contents Ideas . replete with bronze nymphs and etched glasswork. and though many pubs merely pay homage to that period. offering the prospect of fringe theatre.100 SOHO Salisbury Flamboyant late-Victorian pub a stone’s throw from Trafalgar Square.18 London pubs One of the country’s most enduring social institutions. boasting etched glass partitions and lots of authentic polished wood and brass fittings. Dog and Duck Victorian Soho pub with real character. The city’s great period of pub building took place in the Victorian era. P. real ales and original tiled and mosaiced decor. P.
116 HOLBORN Contents Ideas . P.19 The Lamb Classic. beautifully preserved Victorian pub serving London’s own Young’s beers.105 BLOOMSBURY Anchor Ancient riverside inn near the Tate Modern. snug seventeenth-century tavern hidden down an alleyway off Fleet Street – look out for the sign. and Dr Johnson worked on his dictionary. P.152 BANKSIDE AND SOUTHWARK Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese A dark. where Pepys watched London burn. P.
20 The astute taste and financial muscle of London’s collectors over the centuries has endowed the capital with some wonderful art galleries. P.110 COVENT GARDEN Contents Ideas . is the hallmark of this gallery. best known for its superlative collection of Impressionist masterpieces. there are several smaller galleries. stretching from the Italian Renaissance to the Impressionists. while Tate Modern is London’s magnificent new repository of modern art. In addition.67 TRAFALGAR SQUARE AND WHITEHALL Courtauld Institute Quality. many of which offer free entry. where the quality is comparable but the collections more manageable. from Renaissance classics in the airy Sainsbury Wing to works from fin-de-siècle Paris. not quantity. The National boasts both quality and quantity. Art galleries National Gallery A comprehensive overview of the history of Western painting. P.
P.21 Iveagh Bequest Small but perfectly formed collection of seventeenth. P.177 HAMPSTEAD AND HIGHGATE Tate Modern A wonderful hotchpotch of wild and wacky art. Hals. plus copious pre-Raphaelites and lots of Turners. including works by Gainsborough. housing period furniture and masterpieces by the likes of Rembrandt.and eighteenth-century paintings.77 WESTMINSTER Wallace Collection Exquisite miniature eighteenth-century chateau close to Oxford Street. Fragonard and Watteau. P. Rembrandt and Vermeer.147 BANKSIDE AND SOUTHWARK Tate Britain The history of British painting from Holbein and Hogarth to Hockney and Hirst. Van Dyck.91 MARYLEBONE Contents Ideas . P. Reynolds. from video installations to gargantuan pieces that fill the vastness of the turbine hall.
The crown jewels are always on public display. P. and then. London doesn’t disappoint when it comes to pomp and circumstance. guarded by ludicrously overdressed Beefeaters at the Tower of London. Changing of the Guard The colourful daily rituals of the Queen’s Household Regiments. with Hampton Court by far the most impressive and “Buck House” easily the most famous. there are much larger displays of royal pageantry to take in throughout the year.22 Royal London Home to the most famous royal family in the world. of course.71 TRAFALGAR SQUARE AND WHITEHALL Trooping the Colour Suitably spectacular summer show by the Household battalions in the presence of royalty.215 ESSENTIALS Contents Ideas . there’s the city’s numerous royal palaces. with the Horse Guards parading behind Whitehall and the Foot Guards looking after Buckingham Palace. P. As well as the massing of “busbies” at the daily Changing of the Guard.
gilded coaches and immaculately groomed horses. P.82 ST JAMES’S Buckingham Palace The gaudy London home of Her Majesty is open to the public for just two months in the summer.192 HAMPTON COURT Contents Ideas . P. the Tower remains the safedeposit box of the crown jewels. while the royals holiday in Scotland.23 Tower of London A place of imprisonment for several monarchs.80 ST JAMES’S Hampton Court Palace Redesigned by Wren.134 THE TOWER AND DOCKLANDS Royal Mews Official garage for the royal family’s fancy fleet of Daimlers. this Tudor pile is without doubt the most magnificent of the country’s royal palaces. P. P. which feature some of the biggest diamonds in the world.
seafood – particularly oysters – remains very popular. today. P. Gourmet London Harrods Food Hall The Arts and Crafts food hall of the ultimate Knightsbridge department store is a feast for the eyes as well as the stomach. renowned for its picnic hampers. the locals are more cosmopolitan and discerning than ever. you’ll find all the luxury goods you’d expect.161 SOUTH KENSINGTON. beer and even wine. and there’s been a renewed interest in gourmet British food: cheese. As well as being sold in deluxe emporia. KNIGHTSBRIDGE AND CHELSEA Fortnum & Mason Piccadilly’s most famous food emporium. At the height of the British Empire. From champagne to chocolates. smoked fish. P. sumptuous food hall and pukka tearoom. the capital’s dockside warehouses were filled with produce from all over the globe.24 Londoners’ sophisticated tastes stretch back a long way. top-quality produce is a main feature of London’s increasingly popular farmers’ markets.88 PICCADILLY AND MAYFAIR Contents Ideas .
93 MARYLEBONE Neal’s Yard Dairy Experienced. helpful staff encourage customers to sample the outstanding variety of British cheeses piled high on the counters. don’t fix it – Her Majesty’s chocolatier sticks to its 1875 recipes. P.25 Paul Long-established Parisian café-boulangerie.149 BANKSIDE AND SOUTHWARK Contents Ideas . P.88 PICCADILLY AND MAYFAIR Borough Market Stalls at this weekly (Fri & Sat) gourmet food market sell the very best of British produce. P. P.110 COVENT GARDEN Charbonnel et Walker If it ain’t broke. selling authentic and delicious French breads and pastries.
and vast ethnographic collections from all over the world. houses a huge art collection and gives a sober account of the horrors of war. fabulous treasures from Anglo-Saxon. a hidden gem with totally unique. treasure-trove atmosphere. Roman and Medieval Britain. head for the Imperial War Museum.26 London has a fantastic number and variety of museums. choose the National Maritime Museum or the new Wellcome Wing at the Science Museum. but some stand head and shoulders above the rest. P.101 BLOOMSBURY Imperial War Museum The capital’s finest military museum puts on fascinating talks and events. but for exemplary modern. All these are giants compared with Sir John Soane’s Museum. interactive museums that manage to appeal to visitors of all ages.144 SOUTH BANK AND AROUND Contents Ideas . P. for example. For a balanced view of human conflict. are both world-class repositories of art treasures. The British Museum and the Victoria and Albert. Museums British Museum Roman and Greek art. Egyptian and Assyrian artefacts.
116 HOLBORN Science Museum The interactive Wellcome galleries and the daily demonstrations are the most impressive aspects of this enormous complex. silver. musical instruments. P. this imaginatively designed complex will appeal to all ages.182 GREENWICH Contents Ideas . Indian and Islamic art or modern mass-produced design. with something for everyone.160 SOUTH KENSINGTON.159 SOUTH KENSINGTON. KNIGHTSBRIDGE AND CHELSEA Sir John Soane’s Museum This early nineteenth-century home-cumstudio of the idiosyncratic architect of the Bank of England is crammed with paintings and antique sculpture. covering every conceivable area of science. P. P.27 V&A The world’s greatest applied arts museum. P. whether you’re into the history of dress. KNIGHTSBRIDGE AND CHELSEA National Maritime Museum Encompassing the old Royal Observatory as well as the nautical exhibits.
Churches Westminster Abbey This former medieval monastic church preserves both its cloisters and chapter house.28 As medieval London was almost entirely destroyed by the Great Fire of 1666. the churches that survived the flames are all the more precious. one or two of which are especially worth seeking out. P.75 WESTMINSTER St Paul’s Cathedral The world’s first Protestant cathedral is a Baroque masterpiece – test the acoustics in the whispering gallery and climb to the top of the dome. architect of St Paul’s Cathedral. Later. the Victorians added yet more churches to London’s burgeoning suburbs. The Fire heralded the city’s greatest era of church building.123 THE CITY Contents Ideas . and boasts some of the city’s finest late Gothic architecture and funerary art from every age. much of it under the supervision of Sir Christopher Wren. P.
wonderfully ancient church which has the finest Norman chancel in London and some excellent pre-Fire monuments.117 CLERKENWELL Temple Church This early English Gothic church in the heart of the Inns of Court boasts a circular nave featuring battered medieval effigies of the Knights Templar.76 WESTMINSTER Contents Ideas . P.113 HOLBORN Westminster Cathedral Bizarre.29 St Bartholomew-the-Great Much altered. P. P. eye-catching neo-Byzantine Catholic cathedral with an ornate but eerily unfinished interior.
30 With around three hundred languages spoken in its confines. All the immigrant groups have brought with them traditions and customs that have proved an invaluable and vibrant contribution to London’s cultural life. the country’s biggest street party. Diverse London Chinatown London’s most distinct and popular ethnic enclave. with its outdoor produce stalls and network of indoor arcades. had a profound impact on the arts and music scene. As well as improving the local cuisine immeasurably. P.95 SOHO Brixton market Brixton’s upfront African-Caribbean consciousness is especially evident around the wonderful market. and are responsible for the Notting Hill Carnival. P. London is Europe’s most ethnically diverse city. they have provided a vast workforce.217 ESSENTIALS Contents Ideas . characterized by its bewildering array of cafés and restaurants. all the major religions represented. and with immigrants making up over thirty percent of the population.
31 Bevis Marks Synagogue Built in 1701 in the City. and is best known for its inexpensive curry houses.169 REGENT’S PARK AND CAMDEN Contents Ideas . P. and a favourite venue for candlelit Jewish weddings. P.126 THE CITY Brick Lane This East End street is the spiritual heart of London’s Bangladeshi community. this Sephardi synagogue is the country’s oldest. P.130 HOXTON AND SPITALFIELDS London Central Mosque Thousands of worshippers congregate for Friday prayers at this striking modern mosque in Regent’s Park.
but the mother of them all is the state-of-the-art Diana Memorial Playground in Kensington Gardens. Top attractions such as London Zoo.32 There’s plenty to delight kids in London. Syon Park’s child-friendly credentials are ensured by its butterfly house and reptile centre.143 SOUTH BANK AND AROUND Contents Ideas . where kids can stroke the rays and gawp at the sharks. Finally. Kids’ London London Zoo Opened in 1828 as the world’s first scientific zoo. P. don’t underestimate the value of London’s public transport as a source of fun – the no. the London Aquarium and the Natural History Museum are more or less guaranteed to go down well (and the latter has the added advantage of being free). Playgrounds abound in the city’s parks.171 REGENT’S PARK AND CAMDEN London Aquarium Large and popular South Bank aquarium. and still a guaranteed hit with children of all ages.11 double-decker bus takes you past some of London’s chief landmarks. while further from the centre. P.
186 KEW AND RICHMOND No.158 SOUTH KENSINGTON. a reptile and amphibian attraction. P.211 ESSENTIALS Natural History Museum With animatronic dinosaurs and an earthquake simulator. and gardens that feature a miniature steam engine. KNIGHTSBRIDGE AND CHELSEA Diana Memorial Playground The city’s most sophisticated.157 HYDE PARK AND KENSINGTON GARDENS Contents Ideas . just a short walk from Diana’s former home. imaginative and popular outdoor playground. the Natural History is sure to prove a winner. P. P. 11 bus Head upstairs for a free double-decker tour of some of London’s most famous sights. P.33 Syon Park Aristocratic estate that’s now home to a butterfly house. from Big Ben to St Paul’s Cathedral via Trafalgar Square.
34 Indulgent London If you’ve got the time and the money. P. with optional massage and rest beds to collapse on afterwards. with most offering treatments and massages as an optional extra. where you can swim naked in the pool.218 ESSENTIALS Ironmonger Row Baths Old-fashioned steam bath. sauna and plunge-pool on the edge of the City. jump in a jacuzzi or loll about in the sauna and steam room. the chair of one of the city’s leading hair salons or at a table in a Michelin-starred restaurant. The Sanctuary Full-on women-only pamper zone. Steam baths have been popular here since the Restoration in 1660. London is a great place in which to indulge yourself – whether in the bar of a luxury hotel. and there’s an abundance of plush places around. P.218 ESSENTIALS Contents Ideas .
offering spas as well as styling. KNIGHTSBRIDGE AND CHELSEA Contents Ideas . P. and it’s still the place to drink in style.163 SOUTH KENSINGTON. P.35 Hairdressers London holds the flagship salons of some of the biggest names in hair.217 ESSENTIALS Cocktails at the Savoy Britain’s first martini was mixed at the Savoy hotel’s swish Art Deco American Bar in the 1920s. run by the famously bad-tempered Glaswegian former footballer.112 COVENT GARDEN Dinner at Gordon Ramsay Experience some of the capital’s most sublime cooking at this Michelinstarred restaurant. P.
with resident DJs. P. free (or very cheap) entry. These days. and are ideal if you fancy a laid-back night on the tiles. where entrance fees were climbing ever higher and door-policies becoming increasingly draconian. Catering for a clubby crowd. this central venue’s regular DJ nights pull in a crowd of good-time clubbers. more often than not. late opening hours and.168 HIGH STREET KENSINGTON TO NOTTING HILL Contents Ideas . P. club-bars are ubiquitous. Club-bars AKA A minimalist adjunct to The End nightclub.111 COVENT GARDEN Cherry Jam Great west London cocktail bar whose DJ line-ups attract a trendy young crowd. club-bars came about as part of the backlash against London’s “superclubs”.36 The last decade has seen the inexorable rise of the club-bar.
P.133 HOXTON AND SPITALFIELDS Sosho Trendy club-bar.133 HOXTON AND SPITALFIELDS Dragon Low-key bar popular with a mixed clientele of laid-back locals who like to party on down to the resident DJs. P. busy DJ venue housed in an old East End brewery. P.37 Vibe Bar Buzzing.133 HOXTON AND SPITALFIELDS Contents Ideas . doling out lethally good cocktails and best-known for its excellent DJs.
at the heart of an empire that stretched across the globe. when architects tried to outdo each other in decorative detailing.161 SOUTH KENSINGTON.104 BLOOMSBURY Brompton Oratory Experience the smells and sights of an Italianate Roman Catholic church in this wonderfully atmospheric slice of neoBaroque. London trebled in size and became the largest city in the world. P. P. KNIGHTSBRIDGE AND CHELSEA Contents Ideas . the buildings of the era exude the wealth and confidence of that period. Not surprisingly. borrowing from every previous architectural style and from all corners of the empire. They also reflect the magpie-like tastes of the day. Victorian London St Pancras Station Victorian railway station fronted by a gloriously over-the-top red-brick Neo-Gothic hotel.38 During the reign of Queen Victoria (1837–1901).
188 KEW AND RICHMOND Houses of Parliament A gargantuan. confident neo-Elizabethan expression of nationhood.39 Leadenhall Market Cobblestones and graceful Victorian ironwork combine to create the City’s most attractive market for luxury comestibles. P.73 WESTMINSTER Contents Ideas . P.156 HYDE PARK AND KENSINGTON GARDENS Palm House Kew Gardens Decimus Burton’s spectacular curvaceous hothouse is home to most of the world’s known palm species. best known for its “Big Ben” clocktower. P. P. bronze and gilding.126 THE CITY Albert Memorial This bombastic monument to Queen Victoria’s consort is a riot of semi-precious stones. marbles.
The legacy of this period can be seen in London’s vast suburban cemeteries. the emergence of an aspirational middle class prompted more and more Londoners to opt for permanent memorials and ever more ostentatious funerals. established during the Victorian period to cope with the new fashion for funereal opulence. in the nineteenth century.40 Dead London In medieval times. Highgate Cemetery London’s most convincingly Hammer Horror cemetery is most famous as the resting place of Karl Marx. However.178 HAMPSTEAD AND HIGHGATE Kensal Green This canalside cemetery boasts the capital’s most flamboyant funereal sculptures. only royalty and the nobility were commemorated after their death – and the iconoclasm of the Reformation and the Great Fire of 1666 mean that very little medieval funerary art has survived. P.166 HIGH STREET KENSINGTON TO NOTTING HILL Contents Ideas . P.
75 WESTMINSTER St Paul’s Cathedral The nave features some ludicrously pompous monuments to British imperialists. P.70 TRAFALGAR SQUARE AND WHITEHALL Contents Ideas . while the huge crypt specializes in artists.4141 Westminster Abbey When it comes to dead royalty. P. poets or politicians. the abbey wins hands down.123 THE CITY St Mary-at-Lambeth The tiny graveyard here is home to the beautifully carved John Tradescant memorial and the grave of Captain Bligh of the Bounty fame. P.144 SOUTH BANK AND AROUND Cenotaph Edwin Lutyens’ understated Whitehall memorial is a moving commemoration of the “glorious dead” from both world wars. P.
Riverside London Bankside Thanks to the Tate Modern. However the waterfront has. museums and other attractions jostling for space. the waterside entertainment district of Tudor and Stuart London is pulling in the crowds once again. the traffic-free portions of riverbank have again become a focal point. the steady decline in river traffic. means that the Thames itself is now quieter than ever before. become busier in the last couple of decades. restaurants. cafés.146 BANKSIDE AND SOUTHWARK Old Royal Naval College This symmetrical Baroque masterpiece enjoys the best riverside setting in the whole of London. with pubs. P.182 GREENWICH Contents Ideas . and some of the city’s finest buildings were built along the riverfront.42 Until the 1820s. though. P. if anything. From the revitalized South Bank to the phoenix-like Docklands. the Thames was London’s main thoroughfare. Millennium Bridge and Shakespeare’s Globe.
as well as affording by far the best views of the Thames’s photogenic north bank. rent rowing boats or stroll along the bucolic towpath.140 SOUTH BANK AND AROUND Docklands The transformation of London’s moribund dock system into a world-class business district is a maritime miracle. theatres and galleries. P.43 South Bank The traffic-free riverside path here connects numerous attractions. P134 THE TOWER AND DOCKLANDS Richmond Elegant Thames-side suburb where you can have a drink overlooking the water.186 KEW AND RICHMOND Contents Ideas . P.
but viewing and attending an auction costs nothing. Aside from the numerous museums and galleries which don’t charge entry.44 London can be an expensive place for locals and tourists alike. Free London Lunchtime concerts Free lunchtime classical concerts take place in churches all over the City and parts of the West End. from musical treats and upscale auctions to political sparring matches. but there are lots of things to enjoy in the city which are one hundred percent free. there are plenty of slightly more offbeat activities which don’t cost a thing. P. P.87 PICCADILLY AND MAYFAIR Contents Ideas .70 TRAFALGAR SQUARE AND WHITEHALL Sotheby’s auction Buying might make a dent in your pocket.
P.124 THE CITY Foyer gigs in the Royal Festival Hall One of the joys of a stroll along the South Bank is the chance to catch one of the free lunchtime concerts in the RFH foyer. P.45 Evensong at St Paul’s Cathedral The most moving way to experience this great Protestant cathedral is during choral evensong. P.176 HAMPSTEAD AND HIGHGATE Contents Ideas .140 SOUTH BANK AND AROUND Kenwood House An exquisite eighteenth-century interior and top-drawer Old Masters can all be seen for free at English Heritage’s flagship property overlooking Hampstead Heath.
London from up high
London is a huge city, but it’s only when you take a bird’s-eye view that you realize just how vast an area it covers. The most far-reaching vistas are from the pods of the London Eye observation wheel, but even here you can barely make out the edge of the city. What you do notice, though, is that London has only a small number of very tall buildings, allowing church spires to rise above the rooftops, and that the city has a wonderfully idiosyncratic patchwork layout, woven over several centuries.
St Paul’s Cathedral Dome
A head for heights and the ability to climb 500 steps are needed to enjoy a rooftop view over the City here.
P.122 THE CITY
The city’s giant Ferris wheel provides both the most expensive and the most superlative view over the capital.
P.142 SOUTH BANK AND AROUND
A lift inside the stripy campanile takes you high above the rooftops of Westminster.
The elevated walkways of this landmark bridge provide the ultimate up- and downriver vistas.
P.135 THE TOWER AND DOCKLANDS
The free public viewing platform on the eighth floor of this former meat-processing factory gives a lovely view over the South Bank.
P.142 SOUTH BANK AND AROUND
North London’s favourite kite-flying spot, at the southern tip of Hampstead Heath, offers a fabulous skyline panorama.
P.175 HAMPSTEAD AND HIGHGATE
London has an endless roster of festivals and special events, with something happening somewhere almost every day of the year. The fortnight of grass-court tennis at Wimbledon is one of the great annual social events but, like the Proms festival of classical music, it’s open to all-comers provided you’re prepared to queue. Carnival, London’s mammoth street party, is equally democratic, but it’s also worth catching one or two of the more unusual annual events, such as the quaint narrowboat and Morris dancing celebration that is the IWA Cavalcade.
Festivals and events
The world’s most egalitarian classical music festival, featuring daily concerts in the Royal Albert Hall (and elsewhere), and culminating in the flag-waving nationalism of the “Last Night”.
Floats, costume bands, sound-systems, legions of food stalls and a fun-loving, heaving crowd make this huge street party unmissable.
IWA Canal Cavalcade
Colourful and old-fashioned narrowboat parade at the picturesque Little Venice junction of the Regent’s and Grand Union canals.
One of the world’s leading contemporary dance festivals, with innovative productions staged all over the capital.
Constantly expanding annual event which sees the city’s most intriguing historic buildings throw open their doors to the public for free.
Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Championship
Summertime grass-court venue of the most singular of tennis’s four Grand Slam events – think strawberries and cream, and heroic British failures.
London today is a fairly salubrious, modern metropolis, but many of its attractions prefer to glory in the city’s murkier past. Medieval London was undoubtedly a muddy, unforgiving place – there were 156 capital offences in the eighteenth-century city – but it was during the Victorian era when it really paid not to be too squeamish. The Gothic horror and hypocrisy of the period is perfectly illustrated by the cult surrounding the Jack the Ripper murders, which still pulls in the punters even today, just as preanaesthetic operations did in the past.
The ghoulish human fascination with murderers and serial killers is indulged in this infamous waxwork museum’s Chamber of Horrors.
51 London Dungeon Ham and Gothic it may be.149 BANKSIDE AND SOUTHWARK Smithfield Market Each weekday morning around dawn. P.150 BANKSIDE AND SOUTHWARK Old Operating Theatre and Herb Garret Amputations were performed with great speed and skill at this pre-anaesthetic operating theatre – though often with fatal consequences.118 CLERKENWELL Contents Ideas . P. P. but the grisly tableaux and ghost-train ride at the London Dungeon are as popular as ever. London’s leading market for TK (town-killed) meat is a mass of bloody carcasses.
and comedy is so big that London now boasts more dedicated venues than any other city in the world. and stages consistently good productions of everything from classics to new works. and despite the continuing dominance of blockbuster musicals and revenue-spinning star vehicles. P. P.52 London on stage London has enjoyed a reputation for quality theatre since the time of Shakespeare. The largely pub-based fringe theatre scene is still going strong. Shakespeare’s Globe This meticulous replica of an Elizabethan playhouse puts on rabble-rousing. openair performances of plays by Shakespeare and his contemporaries. the city still provides a platform for innovation.148 BANKSIDE AND SOUTHWARK National Theatre The South Bank’s concrete carbuncle houses three excellent theatre spaces.142 SOUTH BANK AND AROUND Contents Ideas .
new writing and star-studded casts. but the acts at this purpose-built Hoxton venue are a cut above the rest.212 ESSENTIALS Donmar Warehouse Covent Garden theatre with an outstanding reputation for classy revivals.213 ESSENTIALS King’s Head pub theatre The most reliable of London’s pub theatre venues. the King’s Head is always worth a visit.53 West End musicals Lavish blockbuster musicals dominate the West End theatre scene. P. P. P.212 ESSENTIALS Comedy Café London’s comedy scene is as varied as it is huge.212 ESSENTIALS Contents Ideas . P.
214 ESSENTIALS Contents Ideas . R&B and hip-hop. P. Most major artists include London in any European tour.213 ESSENTIALS Jazz Café Camden’s Jazz Café embraces all kinds of music. with lots of up-andcoming bands working the circuit.54 Musical London For sheer range and variety. roots and world music. and there’s also a thriving underground scene. folk. As well as boasting two world-class opera houses and free lunchtime classical concerts held regularly at venues throughout the capital. as well as the jazz crowd. Royal Opera House Despite the money and effort involved in getting a ticket. roots. P. blues. it’s definitely worth trying to catch a production at one of the world’s finest opera houses. attracting top names from world music. rock. there’s little to beat London’s live music. the live music scene also encompasses all variations of classical.
P. P.213 ESSENTIALS Shepherd’s Bush Empire This old Victorian theatre is probably London’s best medium-scale rock venue.55 Wigmore Hall Long-established chamber music venue with wonderful acoustics. often with a rock/indie slant. just off Oxford Street. this cavernous former theatre hosts regular gigs.214 ESSENTIALS Contents Ideas . P.214 ESSENTIALS Astoria Smack in the centre of London.
The economic boom of the 1980s witnessed London’s first wave of contemporary architecture. Reflecting the nature of the times, the buildings were generally private office blocks, the most famous of which are the thengroundbreaking Lloyds Building and Canary Wharf. New offices continue to spring up city-wide, and since the turn of the millennium there’s been a new wave of lottery-funded structures such as the Millennium Bridge, and public buildings like the new City Hall.
Lloyds’ high-tech City offices, designed by Richard Rogers in the mid-1980s, are still strikingly contemporary and more successful than many younger upstarts.
P.126 THE CITY
The latest lofty addition to the City skyline, Norman Foster’s unusual cone-shaped affair is popularly known as the “erotic gherkin”.
P.126 THE CITY
Loved and hated in equal measure, Cesar Pelli’s stainless steel skyscraper is the centrepiece of the Canary Wharf Docklands development.
P.137 THE TOWER AND DOCKLANDS
Serpentine Gallery pavilions
The annually commissioned summertime tea pavilions have added architectural merit to the green groves of the park.
P.156 HYDE PARK AND KENSINGTON GARDENS
City Hall (GLA)
Bearing a close resemblance to a giant car headlight, Norman Foster’s eco-friendly headquarters for the Greater London Authority occupies a prominent position on the Thames.
P.151 BANKSIDE AND SOUTHWARK
After a wobbly start, Norman Foster’s flashy millennial footbridge, connecting St Paul’s Cathedral with the Tate Modern, has proved a hit with locals and tourists alike.
P.146 BANKSIDE AND SOUTHWARK
Much of Tudor and Stuart London went up in smoke during the 1666 Great Fire of London, but some gems from the period do survive today. Exuding the flamboyance and exuberance of the period, the grand residences of Hampton Court Palace and Ham House lie well outside the city centre and so were never in peril, but the hammerbeamed Middle Temple Hall and woodpanelled Prince Henry’s Room, on the edge of the City, were saved by a matter of a few feet. The Golden Hinde and the Globe Theatre, meanwhile, are meticulous timber-framed reconstructions from London’s glorious Elizabethan Renaissance.
Tudor and Stuart London
Seaworthy replica of the dinky timber ship in which Sir Francis Drake circumnavigated the globe.
P.149 BANKSIDE AND SOUTHWARK
Relocated and reconstructed in the 1990s, the Globe gives a fascinating insight into the theatre of Shakespeare’s day.
P.148 BANKSIDE AND SOUTHWARK
Middle Temple Hall
This sixteenth-century lawyers’ dining hall boasts a fine hammerbeam roof, wood panelling and a richly carved Elizabethan screen.
Seventeenth-century stately home, just up the towpath from Richmond, with one of the finest Stuart interiors in the country.
P.189 KEW AND RICHMOND
Prince Henry’s Room
Hidden gem at the top of Fleet Street, with Jacobean plasterwork and linenfold panelling that miraculously survived the Great Fire.
Hampton Court Palace
Magnificent Tudor palace on which both Cardinal Wolsey and Henry VIII spent a fortune.
P.192 HAMPTON COURT
the father of psychoanalysis lived out his last months in this well-to-do Hampstead residence. Some have left only memories. painters and thinkers. Everywhere you look there’s a blue plaque.174 HAMPSTEAD AND HIGHGATE Contents Ideas . P. Dickens and Marx to Orwell. and a few have been paid the ultimate homage via the transformation of their former homes into museums. who fell in love with the girl next door. a statue or a memorial celebrating the city’s writers. Woolf and Freud. P.60 London’s streets are full of literary and artistic associations – from Shakespeare. Literary and artistic London Keats House Former home – now shrine – to the ultimate Romantic poet. others first editions and works of art. became consumptive and died in Rome at the age of just 25.175 HAMPSTEAD AND HIGHGATE Freud Museum Fleeing Nazi persecution.
now refurbished as a period set-piece. Marcel Duchamp. P.175 HAMPSTEAD AND HIGHGATE Handel House Museum Court composer Georg Friedrich Handel spent the best part of his life in this Georgian terraced house.61 British Library Home of artistic literary masterpieces such as the Lindisfarne Gospels. Man Ray and Henry Moore. P.103 BLOOMSBURY Leighton House Purpose-built studio and living space of the successful Victorian painter Lord Leighton. chum of the pre-Raphaelites and lover of the exotic.164 HIGH STREET KENSINGTON TO NOTTING HILL 2 Willow Road The Hampstead abode of Hungarian modernist architect Ernö Goldfinger is filled with avant-garde artworks by such greats as Max Ernst. P. as well as original manuscripts by the likes of James Joyce. P.88 PICCADILLY AND MAYFAIR Contents Ideas .
this is no quick cuppa. At a cost of around £25 a head. moves on to scones slathered with clotted cream and jam. P. all washed down with innumerable pots of tea. but a highcholesterol feast that kicks off with sandwiches. and where Guccio Gucci started out as a dishwasher.72 TRAFALGAR SQUARE AND WHITEHALL Savoy Superb Art Deco hotel.62 One of London’s most accessible indulgent rituals is taking afternoon tea in a luxury hotel.72 TRAFALGAR SQUARE AND WHITEHALL Contents Ideas . P. originally managed by César Ritz. and finishes up with assorted cakes. Afternoon tea Ritz The Palm Court here has been a favourite spot to take tea since the hotel first wowed Edwardian society in 1906.
72 TRAFALGAR SQUARE AND WHITEHALL Lanesborough Exclusive and very plush venue in a converted hospital on Hyde Park Corner. where tea is served in the glass-roofed conservatory.72 TRAFALGAR SQUARE AND WHITEHALL Claridge’s Tasteful and terribly English Art Deco hotel that’s perfect for a champagne tea. P. P.72 TRAFALGAR SQUARE AND WHITEHALL Contents Ideas .63 Dorchester Wildly over-the-top gilded and mirrored Hollywood decor is the Dorchester’s hallmark. P.
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Places Contents Places .
Contents Places Places .
Wed till 9pm. as they wheel around the square hoping some unsuspecting visitor will feed them (it’s now. Raphael.nationalgallery. it’s crowds of pigeons that you’re more likely to encounter. Most folk head here for the National Gallery. pinstriped bureaucracy who run the various governmental ministries located here. Michelangelo and Caravaggio. Despite housing more than 2300 paintings. Titian. Free. includes works by Uccello.Trafalgar Square has been a focus for political demonstrations since it was laid out in the 1820s.Veronese. depth and sheer quality. Whitehall itself is synonymous with the faceless. which provide a popular photo opportunity.org. and as such is prime tourist territory. Nelson himself is actually quite hard to see – not so the giant bronze lions at the base of the column. as they’ve been declared a nuisance). which usually attracts a small crowd of onlookers. one-armed admiral who defeated the French at Trafalgar. at the top of the square. which stands 170ft high and is topped by a 17ft statue of the one-eyed. illegal to do so. TRAFALGAR SQUARE Contents Places .67 Trafalgar Square and Whitehall Despite the scruffy urban pigeons and the traffic noise. From Spain National Gallery Trafalgar Square t 020/7747 2885. Piero della Francesca. Botticelli. the square’s central focal point is the deeply patriotic Nelson’s Column. A quick tally of the Italian masterpieces. PLACES Trafalgar Square and Whitehall Trafalgar Square As one of the few large public squares in London. Most days. however. Along with its fountains. Mantegna. Daily 10am–6pm. the main virtue of the National Gallery is not so much the collection’s size. for example. but it’s also the venue for the most elaborate Changing of the Guard. w www. but its range. in fact. then linger by the fountains before wandering down the unusually broad avenue of Whitehall en route to the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey.uk. FOUNTAINS. Trafalgar Square is still one of London’s grandest architectural set-pieces.
68 CH Leicester Square ST MARTIN’S LANE Covent Garden CE LA SP DO AN CH AG AR IN GC RD SS RO AR ST RE ORAN GE STREET ET Trafalgar Square and Whitehall PLACES National Portrait Gallery Edith Cavell WIL LIAM IV STREET ND PLACE RTIN’S ST MA WH RE O MB S T I TC ET National Gallery St Martinin-the-Fields 1 DUNCANNON STREET ST VI LL RA Charing Cross PA MAL LL L South Africa House TRA FALGAR SQ UARE Nelson’s Column CHARING CROSS CHARING CROSS CR IE RS Canada House Charing Cross Station HN ST JO AM AD ST RE ET W Horse Guards HORSE GUAR D S AV E N U W H IT EHAL HO RSE G U A RDS PARA D E Banqueting House N St James’s Park Number 10 Cenotaph DO WN ING ST RE ET RICH MON D TER RAC E STREET L CO URT Cabinet War Rooms 0 50yds KIN G CH AR LE S ST RE ET PA R L I A M E N T 3 CANON ROW EATING & DRINKING Café in the Crypt 1 Lord Moon of the Mall 2 Red Lion 3 © Crown copyright Contents Places V IC T O R IA EMBAN KMENT EET Embankment COCKS PUR S TREE T Charles I Admiralty Arch NOR AV EN ST RE THU ET MBE RLAN D AV EN UE TH A EM LL 2 G TS REA COT LAN ARD DY PLA CE EH HIT ALL L H A L I T E W H H O RS E E GU AR DS ROA D .
Memlinc and Rubens. Founded in 1856 to house uplifting depictions of the good and the great. so if time is tight your best bet is to home in on your areas of special interest. Nevertheless. plus Wed 6. NATIONAL GALLERY Contents Places . and an array of Rembrandt paintings that features some of his most searching portraits.npg.There’s also a Gallery Guide Soundtrack. wwww. you’ll need real stamina to see everything in one day. Daily 10am–6pm. postmodern 1980s adjunct which is linked to – and playfully imitates – the original Neoclassical building. which set off from the Sainsbury Wing foyer.uk. with a brief audio commentary on a large selection of the paintings on display. though for twentiethcentury British art – and many more Turners – you’ll need to move on to Tate Britain on Millbank (see p. van Eyck. the National Portrait Gallery has some fine individual works. Gainsborough. and the overall impression is of an overstuffed shrine to famous Brits rather than a museum offering any insight into the history of portraiture. Free. it is fascinating to trace who has been deemed worthy of admiration at any moment: aristocrats and artists in previous centuries.Watteau and the only Jacques-Louis David paintings in the country are the early highlights of a French contingent that has a particularly strong showing of Cézanne and the Impressionists. warmongers and imperialists in the early decades of the twentieth century. writers and UCCELLO’S BATTLE OF SAN ROMANO.30 pm). Thurs & Fri till 9pm. the softlysoftly. though you’re asked for a “voluntary contribution”. free guided tours (daily 11.77). as the National has more than a thousand paintings on permanent display.org. having picked up a gallery plan at one of the information desks. PLACES Trafalgar Square and Whitehall National Portrait Gallery St Martin’s Place t020/7306 0055.Velázquez and Goya. Another possibility is to join up with one of the excellent. To view the collection chronologically. British art is also well represented. with important works by Hogarth. However. many of the studies are of less interest than their subjects. Poussin. Stubbs and Turner. Claude. However.69 there are dazzling pieces by El Greco. from the Low Countries. it’s available free of charge. begin with the Sainsbury Wing.30pm.30am & 2.
retired footballers. old-fashioned brass-rubbing centre (Mon–Sat 10am–6pm. Sun noon–6pm). and it was here that he celebrated his marriage to Anne Boleyn in 1533 – and where he died fourteen years later. politicians and film and pop stars. it’s free of charge. in the middle of the road. though the Italian plasterwork on Contents Places . meanwhile. St Martin-in-the-Fields Duncannon St w www. Sun noon–8pm. avail yourself of the NPG’s Soundguide.The original Whitehall Palace was confiscated and greatly extended by Henry VIII after a fire at Westminster forced him to find alternative accommodation. stands Edwin Lutyens’ Cenotaph. The statues dotted about Whitehall today recall the days when this street stood at the centre of an empire on which the sun never set.The royalty. the plain monument is inscribed simply with the words “The Glorious Dead” and remains the focus of the country’s Remembrance BRUNEL PORTRAIT. The gallery’s special exhibitions (for which there’s often an entrance charge) are well worth seeing – the photography shows. moved out to St James’s after a fire destroyed most of Whitehall Palace in 1698.stmartin-in-the -fields. Mon–Sat 10am–8pm. nearly all the key governmental ministries and offices migrated here. commemorating the dead of both world wars. rehousing themselves on an ever-increasing scale. are usually excellent. the interior is purposefully simple. while just beyond the Downing Street gates. and distinctly unclassical. and latterly. Trafalgar Square and Whitehall PLACES Whitehall During the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries Whitehall was synonymous with royalty. Something of a blueprint for eighteenth-century churches across the Empire. Completed in 1726. Eschewing any kind of Christian imagery. serving as the permanent residence of England’s kings and queens.70 the barrel vaulting is exceptionally rich. it’s best appreciated while listening to one of the church’s free lunchtime concerts or ticketed. tower and steeple. From the sixteenth century onwards. though you’re strongly invited to give a “voluntary contribution” of £3. in particular. candle-lit evening performances (call t020/7839 8362 for timings and information).org. NPG poets in the 1930s and 1940s. the crypt holds a shop. St Martin-in-the-Fields is fronted by a magnificent Corinthian portico and topped by an elaborate. a gallery and a good.As well as a licensed café. If you want some biographical background on many of the pictures.
the warren had expanded to cover more than six acres.uk.hrp. by George II in 1732.uk. One of the few PLACES Trafalgar Square and Whitehall sections of Whitehall Palace to escape the 1698 fire was the Banqueting House.uk /cabinet. the sentries are basically here for the tourists. £4. when he stepped onto the executioner’s scaffold from one of its windows.Try to coincide your visit with the Changing of the Guard (Mon–Sat 11am. all in ceremonial uniform. Outside this modest building (once the old palace guard house) two mounted sentries of the Queen’s Household Cavalry and two horseless colleagues.The one room open to the public has no original furnishings. one of the first Palladian buildings to be built in England. no. anticipation of Nazi air raids. Cabinet War Rooms King Charles St w www.uk /ceremonialandheritage. £7. James I. the peaceful reign of his father. including a hospital.71 Sunday ceremony. in Horse Guards Whitehall wwww. Daily: April–Sept 9.org.mod.gov. Banqueting House Whitehall w www.army. Britain’s first PM. London’s most famous address has been hidden behind wrought-iron security gates. In 1938. Sun 10am). A pretty plain. when a squad of twelve mounted troops arrive in full livery. the basements of the civil service buildings on the south side of King Charles Street were converted into the Cabinet War Rooms. Charles himself walked through the room for the last time in 1649. From here. canteen and shooting NAVE OF ST-MARTIN-IN-THE-FIELDS Contents Places . 10 Downing Street w www. Since the days of Margaret Thatcher. though they are under orders not to smile. 10 has been home to every British prime minister since it was presented to Robert Walpole. but is well worth seeing for the superlative Rubens ceiling paintings commissioned by Charles I in the 1630s. Oct–March 10am–6pm. depicting the union of England and Scotland.org.30am–6pm.50. Winston Churchill directed operations and held cabinet meetings for the duration of World War II.The main action takes place in the parade ground at the rear of the building overlooking Horse Guards’ Parade. held here in early November. and finally his apotheosis. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm. With nothing in particular to guard nowadays. By the end of the conflict. seventeenth-century terraced house. which you can reach through the archway.number-10.iwm. are posted daily from 10am to 4pm.
of course. w www. scones and cream. The Savoy Strand t 020/7836 4343.72 commentary helps bring the place to life. Expect to pay around £25 per person. Daily 3–5.30pm. w www . lashings of tea – is available all over London.30pm. Daily 3–6pm. w www. Huge. Daily 3–5.uk. but is best sampled at one of the capital’s top hotels.com.savoy-group.lanesborough. Book ahead. this is an ideal spot to fill up before hitting the West End. cakes and tarts and. who can be called to parliamentary votes by a division bell in the bar. and with a handy location. though only The Ritz insists on jacket and tie.30 & 5. Contents Places . 3.com.uk.30.dorchesterhotel. range.theritzhotel. Claridge’s Brook St t 020/7629 8860. Daily 1. Afternoon tea The classic English afternoon tea – assorted sandwiches. The museum’s free acoustophone Red Lion 48 Parliament St. and make for an atmospheric underground trot through wartime London. Lanesborough Hyde Park Corner t 020/7259 5599. now a popular Wetherspoon’s pub serving decent grub and real ales.30pm. The Dorchester 54 Park Lane t 020/7629 8888. Duncannon St.co. TRAFALGAR SQUARE Pubs Lord Moon of the Mall 16 Whitehall.savoy-group. Daily 3. high-ceilinged former bank. SOUTH AFRICA HOUSE. Old-fashioned late-Victorian pub popular with politicians. Sun noon–8pm. Thurs–Sat 10am–11pm.co. w www. Mon–Wed 10am–8pm. w www . and leave your jeans and trainers at home – most hotels will expect men to wear a jacket of some sort.30–6pm.uk. Trafalgar Square and Whitehall PLACES Cafés Café in the Crypt St Martin-in-the-Fields. The rooms have been left pretty much as they were when they were finally abandoned on VJ Day 1945. Offering self-service comfort food (including plenty of veggie choices). The Ritz Piccadilly t 020/7493 8181. as well as cramped sleeping quarters and a series of tunnels fanning out from the complex to outlying government ministries. a selection of the best venues are picked out below.co. and includes various eyewitness accounts by folk who worked there.
Also known as the Palace of Westminster. 1pm Tues–Thurs. turn up an hour or BIG BEN Contents Places . If you want to avoid the queues. religious and regal power has emanated from Westminster for almost a millennium. the complex is distinguished above all by the ornate. and sheer scale – 240ft by 60ft – make it one of the most magnificent pieces of secular medieval architecture in Europe (you get a glimpse of it en route to the public galleries). and the embryonic English parliament met in the abbey from the fourteenth century onwards. London’s most spectacular church. To watch the proceedings in either the House of Commons or the Lords. the security checks are very tight. and the whole procedure can take an hour or more.The public are let in slowly (from 4pm Mon. and as such it’s a popular tourist spot.The city’s finest example of Victorian Gothic Revival. Westminster remains home to the Houses of Parliament today. simply join the queue for the public galleries (known as Strangers’ Galleries) outside St Stephen’s Gate. The original medieval palace burnt to the ground in 1834. A short walk upriver. after the thirteen-ton main bell that strikes the hour (and is broadcast across the airwaves by the BBC). and Westminster Abbey. gilded clock tower popularly known as Big Ben.uk.parliament. It was King Edward the Confessor who first established this spot as London’s royal and ecclesiastical power base. building his palace and abbey some three miles upstream from the City of London in the eleventh century. and its huge oak hammerbeam roof. one of the city’s most familiar landmarks. with visitors drawn here by Big Ben. but Westminster Hall survived. PLACES Westminster Houses of Parliament Parliament Square t 020/7219 4272.73 Westminster Political. the Houses of Parliament are one of London’s best-known monuments and the ultimate symbol of a nation once confident of its place at the centre of the world. w www. 10am Fri). Tate Britain houses the most comprehensive collection of British art in the country.
30pm). when the crowds have usually thinned.Tues–Thurs 11.30–3. ROOKE RE E RE RE Tate Britain RY STR EET TO RO RE AD N ES T MP AY N RA PIMLICO D 0 200 yds BESS UG H S T B OR O M RU G M AT O N D E N EATING & DRINKING Albert 3 Cinnamon Club 4 Quilon 2 Westminster Arms 1 © Crown copyright more later. PARLIAMENT SQUARE Contents Places I L L B A N K ET Y WA ICK LL ET A PLA A U SQ CE X H SQ UA A RE V RO CH VI NC ACE N TUF TO Westminster Cathedral VE NA DE OS H BR ET AM RP CE MO ERRA T ST STRE ET St John SMITH STR SQUARE LORD NORTH STREET DEAN STANLEY COURT VI GRE NC EET M MARSHA YCO S AT EN H O R S E F E R R Y AU E NS LS T R O A D THORN EY S T R E E T T T STREET M P A G E S T R E E T U VINCENT STREET REGENCY Millbank Tower TA CH BR STREET OO K CAU River Thames ST STO RE NS T . or your home country’s embassy (see p. you really need to book a ticket several weeks in advance from your local MP if you’re a resident UK citizen.30am–12. phone t 020/7219 4272 to check the place isn’t closed for the holidays.30pm. If you’re here in late TAXI LIGHT. To see Question Time (Mon 2. when the House is at its most raucous and entertaining.217) in London if you’re not.74 War Rooms St James's Park E A G D C B I R L K W A N ST OL D QU EE GREAT GEORGE ST Parliamentary BRIDGE ST Bookshop WESTMINSTER PARLIAMENT SQUARE STOREY' S GATE QUE EN ANN E'S GAT E 1 Guards’ Museum Methodist Central Hall T O T H I L L STRE ET Westminster PLACES BU Wellington Barracks CK PET TY FRAN CE WAY ING HA Passport Office T REET ST JAMES'S PARK E TR ET G R E AT S M D OA BR Y AR TU NC SA St Margaret’s Houses of Parliament St Stephen’s Gate M Blewcoat School Gift Shop PA L 2 TE B ROAD GA CA XT ON S VICT EE STR ORIA 3 T C VI ARTILLERY ROW R TO I A Scotland Yard ST RE E T OL D PY E New S Westminster Abbey GREA T CO LLE Jewel Tower G E STR EET IT H 4 R GR E AT PETE MONCK ST Victoria Tower Gardens N K MILLBA STR STRUTTON GROU ND EE T ET CE E TR PLA S IS AT NCO N W C RO A FR EE GR R T TE EN ES TON ST UR AP CH OO UA RE CH ST RA AR VE ATT E RBU M BE LG St Jamesthe-Less T MO E CH O LW D JO A HN ER R AS TE E ISL ST R G MU IP ID H ID R S S T RW WA ST D ST B E ST ERB PL.
and was constructed in around 1365 by Edward III as a giant strongbox for the crown jewels. Mon. Sat 9.westminster-abbey. is the Lady Chapel. it houses an excellent exhibition on the history of parliament – worth checking out before you visit the Houses of Parliament. It formed the southwestern corner of the original exterior fortifications (there’s a bit of moat left. These days. which commemorates the marriage of Henry VIII and Catherine of coronation since William the Conqueror.The first occupant. but from the eighteenth century onwards. Sat 9. see some of the state rooms reserved for the Queen. Sun 2–5pm.There are scores of memorials to the nation’s most famous citizens. The venue for every PLACES Westminster Jewel Tower Abingdon St.50. 2pm. The Jewel Tower is another remnant of the medieval palace.and right-hand corners). as well as the Poets’ Corner in the south transept.30am–7pm. and admire Westminster Hall.45pm. booking line t 0870/906 3773). 2pm. Tues. opposite Victoria Tower and its adjacent gardens. Wed 9. too). a decrepit oak throne dating from around 1300 that’s still used for coronations.The present building dates back to 1523.Wed & Thurs 1.30am & 11am). Geoffrey Chaucer. 2.30am–1. and the interior is crammed with reliefs and statues.30am–1. however. Sitting in the shadow of Westminster Abbey. however. The abbey’s most dazzling architectural set-piece.30pm. Nov–March 10am–4pm.15am–4. allow you to inspect Edward I’s Coronation Chair. 10. Aragon (depicted in the bottom left. Westminster Abbey embodies much of England’s history.org/stmargarets. and its most noteworthy furnishing is the colourful Flemish stained-glass window above the altar.30pm & 3pm. & 3pm. or you can simply head for the ticket office on Abingdon Green.45pm. too. Sat 10am.30am & 11am. It’s a good idea to book in advance. Contents Places . Fri & Sat 9. 11am. for which you have to stump up an extra £3.45pm. is the Shrine of Edward the Confessor.60. was buried here in 1400 merely because he lived nearby.30am–3. £7.15–4.30am. Thurs & Fri 9. which you can enter only as part of a guided tour of the abbey (April–Oct Mon–Fri 10am. though. Westminster Abbey Parliament Square w www . St Margaret’s Church Parliament Square w westminster-abbey .30am–3. 11am. added by Henry VII in 1503 as his future resting place. Daily: April–Sept 10am–6pm.Tues. you can also see Parliament by way of a guided tour (Aug & Sept Mon.The general entry fee does.30pm. Free.org.75 summer.45pm. 10. £1. 10.With its intricately carved vaulting and fan-shaped gilded pendants. the chapel represents the final spectacular gasp of the English Perpendicular style. Nov–March Mon–Fri 10am. Mon–Fri 9.The sacred heart of the building. £7. and the site of just about all royal burials in the five hundred years from Henry III to George II. Oct 10am–5pm. in which visitors get to walk through the two chambers. St Margaret’s has been the unofficial parliamentary church since the entire Commons tipped up here in 1614 to unmask religious Dissenters among the MPs. Sat 10am.
with its remarkable thirteenth-century decorative paving-tiles and wall-paintings. John Dryden.rcdow.Thomas Hardy and William Shakespeare. site of the coronations. The interior is only half finished. and the wonderful Cosmati floor mosaic. Charles Dickens.30pm & 1–5pm. light and. multicoloured decor makes use of over one hundred different types of marble from around the world. Rudyard Kipling.30am–5pm. whose dandyish figure is set into the east wall. and often covered by a carpet to protect it. brass band concerts take place in July and August between 12. by far the tallest in the country. free). £2). Dec–March Thurs–Sun same hours. MARTIN LUTHER KING STATUE. sculpted by Eric Gill during World War I. Oct 10am–5pm.30am–4pm). it culminates in a magnificent 274ft tapered campanile.org. too. Doors in the south choir aisle lead to the Great Cloisters. WESTMINSTER ABBEY the stripy neo-Byzantine. Mon–Fri & Sun 7am–7pm. £1). with memorials to. Constructed from more than twelve million terracotta-coloured bricks and decorated with hoops of Portland stone. you exit via the west door. Begun in 1895. to check out the low-relief Stations of the Cross. explore the series of side chapels whose rich. constructed in the thirteenth century by Italian craftsmen.30 and 2pm. so to get an idea of what the place should eventually look like. Westminster PLACES Westminster Cathedral Victoria St w www. Chapter House tickets include entry to the Abbey Museum (daily 10. Sat 8am–7pm. filled with generations of bald royal death masks and wax effigies. a 900-year-old stretch of green which now provides a quiet retreat. you can view the central sanctuary. Roman Catholic Westminster Cathedral is one of London’s most surprising churches. It’s only after exploring the cloisters that you get to see the nave itself: narrow. where the House of Commons met from 1257. as well as one of the last – and the wildest – monuments to the Victorian era. served by a lift (April–Nov 9. Free. Lord Tennyson. make your way to the little-known College Garden (Tues–Thurs: April–Sept 10am–6pm. Oct–March 10am–4pm. From the south transept. Be sure. Samuel Johnson.30am–12.76 this area became an artistic Pantheon. Robert Browning. among others. If you visit the Cloisters from Tuesday to Thursday. Nov–March 10am–4pm.uk. Contents Places . at the eastern end of which lies the octagonal Chapter House (daily: April–Sept 9. at over a hundred feet in height.
uk.uk/giftshop. Constable.W.tate. Free. The paintings are rehung more or less annually.org. WESTMINSTER CATHEDRAL Tate Britain Millbank t020/7887 8008. Lots of art posters. Daily 10am–5. gift shop in a pretty little Georgian schoolhouse.tate. plus foreign painters like van Dyck who spent much of their career over here. w www. Closed Sat & Sun.50pm. the gallery also showcases contemporary British artists and continues to sponsor the Turner Prize.uk. as are established twentieth-century greats including Stanley Spencer and Francis Bacon alongside living artists such as David Hockney and Lucien Freud. tapestries. but always include a fair selection of works by British artists such as Hogarth. Gainsborough. arty accessories. from Constable to Turner Prize nonsense. plus loads of funky. Pick up copies of Hansard (the word-for-word account of parliament). National Trust founded in 1897 with money from Henry Tate. w www. Lastly.org.nationaltrust. Closed Sat & Sun. preserves and books ranging from gardening to architecture. the country’s most prestigious modern-art award. Contents Places . selling toiletries. displayed in the Clore Gallery.77 PLACES Westminster STATIONS OF THE CROSS.org. waterproof hats. A purpose-built gallery Shops Blewcoats School Gift Shop 23 Caxton St t 020/7222 2877. Tate Britain Gift Shop Millbank t 020/7887 8876.M. wwww. As well as displaying works from 1500 to the present.Tate Britain is now devoted exclusively to British art. inventor of the sugar cube. Parliamentary Bookshop 12 Bridge St t 020/7219 3890.The everpopular Pre-Raphaelites are always well represented.Turner. Reynolds and Blake. plus the government’s white and green papers. don’t miss the Tate’s outstanding collection of works by J.
elegant and expensive Indian restaurant specializing in Keralan cuisine – lots of fish. A real Quilon 41 Buckingham Gate t 020/7821 1899. Very smart – and Pubs Albert 52 Victoria St. with big bay windows. wall-to-wall with MPs.78 Westminster PLACES WILLIAM BLAKE’S NEWTON. the power breakfasts are particularly popular with politicians. Closed Sun. fresh peppercorns and coconut. w www. Westminster Arms 9 Storey’s Gate. glass partitions and a beautiful original ceiling and carved wooden bar.com.cinnamonclub. Victorian pub. TATE BRITAIN Restaurants Cinnamon Club Great Smith St t 020/7222 2555. and with a division bell in the bar. Roomy High expensive – Indian restaurant housed in a former library. Closed Sat lunch & Sun eve. seafood. Contents Places . swish. Another very parliamentary pub.
uk. while jacket-and-tie restaurants and expense-account gentlemen’s outfitters line Jermyn Street. The south side of The Mall gives on to St James’s Park. with the London Eye observation wheel peeking over it all. PLACES St James’s The Mall The tree-lined sweep of The Mall – London’s nearest equivalent of a Parisian boulevard – was laid out in the first decade of the twentieth century as a memorial to Queen Victoria. Plenty of folk. while at the other end. when it’s closed to traffic.royalparks. it’s best to try and visit on a Sunday. just off Trafalgar Square. Hardly surprising.79 St James’s An exclusive little enclave sandwiched between St James’s Park and Piccadilly. then. frequent St James’s Park. St James’s Park w www. having been drained and enclosed for hunting purposes by Henry VIII. and there are exotic ducks. Regal and aristocratic residences overlook nearby Green Park and the stately avenue of The Mall. and today its treelined lake is a favourite picnic spot for Whitehall’s civil servants. stands the ludicrously overblown Victoria Memorial. St James’s was laid out in the 1670s close to the royal seat of St James’s Palace. gentlemen’s clubs cluster along Pall Mall and St James’s Street. that most Londoners rarely stray into this area. the oldest of London’s royal parks. with large numbers heading for the Queen’s chief residence. and the adjacent Queen’s Gallery and Royal Mews.These days. Pelicans chill out at the eastern end (feeding takes place CARLTON HOUSE TERRACE Contents Places . From the bridge across the lake there’s also a fine view over to Westminster and the jumble of domes and pinnacles along Whitehall. in front of Buckingham Palace. daily at 3pm).gov.The bombastic Admiralty Arch was erected to mark the eastern entrance to The Mall. however. swans and geese aplenty. Buckingham Palace. It was landscaped by Nash in the 1820s. Edward VII’s overblown tribute to his mother.
Advance booking on t 020/766 7300.uk. Aug & Sept daily 9. and provide a potted military history since the Civil War.uk. the Guards’ Museum. a lock of Wellington’s hair and a whole load of war booty. endeavours to explain the complicated evolution of the Queen’s Household Regiments.50. from Dervish prayer mats plundered from Sudan in 1898 to items taken from an Iraqi POW during the Gulf War.80 Guards’ Museum Birdcage Walk w www. built in 1833 and fronted by a parade ground. Among the exhibits St James’s PLACES are the guards’ glorious scarlet and blue uniforms. The Neoclassical facade of the Wellington Barracks.royal.armymuseums .gov. Daily 10am–4pm. Buckingham Palace Buckingham Gate w www.30pm. M P A G H BR IN CK BU ES E AF ST FO RD BIR BU DC AG E W AL W AL K CE D O WN ST K ST R EE T D P I C C A I L L Y GREEN PARK REET PA Spencer House SPU R ROA D LA CE CK IN K GH ST S TA G Contents SE RE AM Wellington Barracks ND ET P EN E LAC GA TE WILFRED ST RE E T Guards’ Museum Places . runs along the south side of St James’s Park. £2. The graceless colossus of EET 0 100 yds BRIC G r e e n Q U E EN ’S N CO P a r k N ST IT U TI O N H Buckingham Palace Gardens IL L Lancaster House Buckingham Palace Victoria Memorial Queen’s Gallery Royal Mews BUC KI NGH AM GATE PL AC P LA D GR LOW OS ER OA VE ER NO AC RP AL L. £12. In a bunker opposite the barracks’ modern chapel.The museum also displays (and sells) an impressive array of toy soldiers.org.30am–4.
Bros & Trumper Rudd Paxton and Whitfield HAY MAR K ET D BLUEBELL YAR CE ST JAM ES'S PLA Christie’s Auction House S T R E E T K I N G CROWN PASS. BURL For two months of the year. For the other ten months of the year there’s little to do here. the hallowed portals are grudgingly nudged open to the public. producing a Neoclassical monolith that’s about as bland as it’s possible to be. has served as the monarch’s permanent London residence only since the accession of Victoria (if the Queen is at home. Bought by George III in 1762.The interior. and again by Aston Webb in time for George V’s coronation in 1913. and there’s little sign of life as the Queen decamps to Scotland every summer. is a bit of an anticlimax: of the palace’s 660 rooms. ST JAMES'S SQUARE i Theatre Royal 3 CHARLES II STREET JAM ES'S ST Her Majesty’s Theatre Guards’ Crimean Memorial WATERLOO PLACE LITTLE S T Chapel Royal ROW 4 P A L L M A L L C LEVELAND ROYAL OPERA ARCADE York House Queen’s Chapel MAR LB OR OUGH R OAD Marlborough House C A R L T O N H O U S E T E R R A C E Clarence St James’s House Palace Duke of York's Column 5 ICA T H E M A L L SE G UA RDS S t J a m e s ' s HOR P a r k EATING & DRINKING Al Duca ICA Bar Miso Red Lion (Duke of York St) Red Lion (Crown Passage) ROA D HORSE GUARDS PARADE 2 5 3 1 4 © Crown copyright Contents Places . the Royal Standard flies from the roof of the palace). the building was overhauled by Nash in the late 1820s. timed tickets are sold from the marquee-like box office in Green Park at the western end of The Mall.81 Buckingham Palace. popularly known as “Buck House”. you’re permitted to see around twenty. however. as the palace is closed TR EE T SAC PLACES St James’s REET ARLINGTON STREET ET The Ritz PICCADILLY ARCADE ET BURY STREET PRINCE’S ARCADE PICCADILLY CIRCUS PICCADILLY P I C C A D I L L Y Eros CIRCUS Dunhill ST JAMES'S STREET DUKE STREET Fortnum & Mason J E R M Y N St James’s 1 2 S T R E E T DUKE OF YORK ST LOWER REGENT STREET Berry Geo F.
The rambling complex is off-limits to the public. and the Chapel Royal.The most ornate is the Gold State Coach made for George III in 1762. though you can attend services at the Chapel Royal (Oct to Good Friday Sun 8. along with an exhibition Originally built by Henry VIII for Anne Boleyn.uk. Among the thousands of works the curators have to choose from are some incredible masterpieces by Michelangelo.gov.30pm. Royal Mews Buckingham Palace Rd w www.These are drawn from the Royal Collection.uk.71). £5. its axles supporting four life-size figures.The imposing red-brick gate-tower that forms the main entrance.The horses can be viewed in their luxury stables. venue for numerous royal weddings. Built by John Nash for the QUEEN ALEXANDRA MEMORIAL.50. MARLBOROUGH ROAD future William IV.royal. Aug to mid-Oct daily 9. It now serves as Prince Charles’s chief London residence. Aug & Sept daily 10am–5pm. as well as numerous Fabergé eggs and heaps of Sèvres china.gov.30am & 11. St James’s PLACES Queen’s Gallery Buckingham Gate w www. Gainsborough. and the Neoclassical Queen’s Chapel (Easter–July Sun 8. Daily 10am–5.gov.gov.15am).princeofwales . van Dyck.30am & 11. St James’s Palace became the principal royal residence when Whitehall Palace burnt to the ground in 1698 (the court moved down the road to Buckingham Palace under Queen Victoria).uk. the vast array of artworks snapped up by the royal family which is three times larger than that at the National Gallery. St James’s Palace Marlborough Rd w www.30am–6pm. Rembrandt and Canaletto.15am). Until recently. Clarence House is best known as the former home of the late Queen Mum. The public can also visit the changing exhibitions at the Queen’s Gallery. Clarence House Stable Yard Rd w www. £6. There’s more pageantry on show at the Nashbuilt Royal Mews. £5. Vermeer.royal . of equine accoutrements.50.uk. but it’s the royal carriages that are the main attraction. The Mews also houses the Royal Family’s gleaming fleet of five Rolls Royce Phantoms and three Daimlers. Rubens. are all that remain of the original Tudor palace.82 to visitors – not that this deters the crowds who mill around the railings and gather in some force to watch the Changing of the Guard (see p.royal. Reynolds.50. smothered in 22-carat gilding and weighing four tons.royal. and a handful of Contents Places .gov . Oct–July Mon–Thurs & Fri–Sat 11am–4pm. the palace was used as a bachelor pad by Prince Charles (w www.uk) until he moved next door to Clarence House.
this impeccably discreet “Gentlemen’s Perfumer” is the barber of choice. Most of St James’s palatial residences are closed to the public. Quintessentially English.The ancestral home of the late Princess Diana. Geo F. the main draw is the selection of paintings by the likes of Walter Sickert and Augustus John. Closed Sun. and the friendly and helpful staff know pretty much everything there is to know on the subject. Feb–July & Sept–Dec Sun 10.com. Closed Sun.co. The Great Room features a stunning coved and coffered ceiling in green. Contents Places . w www. Spencer House St James’s Place w www . w www. with its astonishing gilded palm-tree columns.co. Trumper 20 Jermyn St t 020/7734 1370. Closed Sun. PLACES St James’s Shops Berry Bros & Rudd 3 St James’s St t 020/7396 9600. This well-stocked. An enormous range of pipes and cigars on the first floor. but one happy exception is Spencer House. w www.trumpers.co. and is currently leased to the Rothschilds. though. 300-year-old establishment houses a huge range of fine wines.uk. while the adjacent Painted Room is a feast of Founded in 1875. Inside. it was last lived in by the family in 1927. 48 Jermyn St t 020/7499 9566. £6.83 Neoclassicism. plus a good range of wine and port. a superb Palladian mansion erected in the 1750s. apart from a peek behind the scenes in a royal palace.bbr. with a shaving school that will teach you how to execute the perfect wet shave. and a small museum of old Dunhill gadgets and accessories on the ground floor.45pm. white and gold.uk. w www.Visits are by guided tour only. ST JAMES’S PARK Dunhill rooms were opened to the public for the first time in the summer of 2003.30am–5.com. guides take you on an hour-long tour through nine of the state rooms.whitespot. Paxton & Whitfield 93 Jermyn St t 020/7930 0259. decorated with murals in the “Pompeian manner”.paxtonandwhitfield.uk. and. 200-year-old cheese shop offering a very traditional range of British and European varieties. is to be found in Lord Spencer’s Room. Closed Sun.spencerhouse.The most outrageous decor.
join on the door (Mon–Fri £1. High quality. Closed Sun.co. who fill up on sandwiches and quaff real ale before moving on to somewhere more upmarket. Genuine old Victorian gin palace run by the Nicholson’s chain. dinner at just over. Miso 66 Haymarket t 020/7930 4800.50. this tiny. Sat & Sun £2. You have to be a member to drink at the ICA Bar – but anyone can Red Lion 2 Duke of York St. w www.org. Closed Sun. and sweaty DJ nights at the weekends. with elegant etched mirrors. slick service and good set menus: lunches start at just under £20.alduca-restaurant. polished wood and a great ceiling. It’s a cool drinking venue. woodpanelled local attracts a smart besuited clientele.uk. wokfried and soupy noodle and rice dishes that will fill your belly for under £10. Hidden away in a passageway off Pall Mall.50).uk. Pubs and bars ICA 94 The Mall w www. Red Lion 23 Crown Passage.84 St James’s PLACES PLANE TREES IN GREEN PARK Restaurants Al Duca 4–5 Duke of York St t 020/7839 3090. with a noir dress code observed by the arty crowd and staff.ica. sophisticated Italian food. Huge helpings of eastern. Contents Places .
Despite the bow and arrow. the street’s partially EROS. and was erected to commemorate the Earl of Shaftesbury. it’s by no means a picturesque place. PLACES Piccadilly and Mayfair Piccadilly Circus Anonymous and congested it may be. but for many Londoners. and a new. stick to Regent and Oxford streets on the fringes of Mayfair.uk. a Biblethumping social reformer who campaigned against child labour. particularly Bond Street and its tributaries.co. traffic-clogged Piccadilly is no longer the fashionable promenade it once was. where designer clothes emporia jostle for space with jewellers. Somewhat inexplicably. Drawn up by John Nash in 1812 as both a luxury shopping street Contents Places . Regent Street was the city’s first real attempt at dealing with traffic congestion. Piccadilly Circus attracts a huge number of tourists. Piccadilly Circus is the nearest their city comes to having a centre. It’s here that Londoners are referring to when they talk of “going shopping up the West End”. Most Londoners. who come here to sit on the steps of the central fountain. it depicts not the god of love but the Angel of Christian Charity.regent-street. Even today. At the same time. and is probably best seen at night when the spread of vast illuminated signs (a feature since the Edwardian era) provide a touch of Las Vegas dazzle. Originally laid out in 1812 and now a major traffic bottleneck. home to the flagship branches of the country’s most popular chain stores. and create a tangible borderline to shore up fashionable Mayfair against the chaotic maze of Soho. wide triumphal approach to Regent’s Park. bespoke tailors and fine art dealers.85 Piccadilly and Mayfair Forming the border between St James’s and Mayfair. topped by an aluminium statue popularly known as Eros. However. PICCADILLY CIRCUS Regent Street w www. it’s still possible to admire the stately intentions of Nash’s plan. it helped clear away a large swath of slums. a whiff of exclusivity still pervades the streets of Mayfair. however. and when the human traffic is at its most frenetic. particularly evident in the Quadrant.
Mon–Sat 9am–6pm. Piccadilly and Mayfair PLACES Piccadilly Piccadilly apparently got its name from the ruffs or “pickadills” worn by the dandies who promenaded along this wide boulevard in the late seventeenth century. but now equally useful for escaping exhaust fumes.burlington-arcade. then owner of neighbouring H SEYM OUR ST T AN S PORTMAN SQUARE MANCHESTER SQUARE MA RYLEBO N E 0 QUE 200 yds ST ST STREET HARLE AM P L A C E Y ST GRE UDLE ST ET NOR R BRO OK STRE R ET E MAR E T R GR O STRE SVEN ET ET OR S T ET STRE GROSVENOR SQUARE GROS BRO OK S TRE STRE 2 ET PA R K AUD Hyde L A N E EET D AV IE LEY MOU NT STR S 3 M AY F A I R Immaculate Conception FARM Y’S ME S T HA VENO R ST RE Handel House Museum ET HANOVER SQUARE OXFORD CIRCUS OX F GRE UPPE OR AT US Embassy Browns NEW BOND STREET GAR ET S TR DS POR UPPE 1 R D BOND STREET WEIG HHOU SE ST RIET S SOU TH M LANG H PARK TH A TLA TA P L ACE CAVENDISH SQUARE ND MOR EN S TRE X F DUKE O HEN T STR O JAM E S ST NOR TH R OW Selfridges EET EET STR CHAN DOS ST ORCH RE REET Y ST MO W E LB ARD WIG WIMPO LE ST PORTM MARBLE ARCH Marks & Spencer ECK EN A NN E ST R EET PO W M A R Y L EBO NE L A N E ORT MAN ADAM ST TI EET OLTO Park TO N SOU 6 TH ST WA VER K P A R Grosvenor Chapel CHESTERFIELD HILL 4 BRUTO N PLACE HI LL ST BERKELEY BRUTON ST SQUARE N ST HAN TRE OVER ET ST RAMILLIES PL . GRU CE Burlington Arcade w www. the increased purchasing power of the city’s middle classes brought the tone of the street “down”.86 arcaded. It was built in 1819 for Lord Cavendish. and the presence of the Ritz Hotel halfway along.co. VIG OS T ROYAL ARCADE S T R BR EW ER S TR E ET W IND M IL L ST CLARGE BOLTON ST TREE 9 ST 10 ST JAMES'S ST Royal Academy O LD PARK S T HYD COR E L Y A D I L P I C C GREEN PARK Burlington Arcade Fortnum & Mason The Ritz Piccadilly T Circus Hatchards Waterstone’s Eros JER MY N ST E E SH A F LA. Despite its fashionable pedigree. T EATING & DRINKING IT U T3 Audley IO Claridge’s 2 N Buckingham Dorchester 6 Palace Contents RK PA ER N HAYMARKET CO NS TIT H I UTIO LL N Green Park C O PICCADILLY St James’s ARCADE PRINCE’S ARCADE ST JA MES ’ S Christie's ST JAMES'S © SQUARE PICCADILLY CIRCUS N S Spencer House i Crown copyright 8 T Dover St Wine Bar Guinea Lancaster H I LKiku House L 10 4 9 Mô Sotheby’s Truc Vert MARLBOROUGH P A7 L L MYe Grapes A L L 5 1 St James's Palace SQ Places . it’s no place for promenading in its current state. Burlington is Piccadilly’s longest and most expensive nineteenthcentury arcade. curved section which swerves westwards from Piccadilly Circus. originally built to protect shoppers from the mud and horse-dung on the streets. Infinitely more pleasant places to window-shop are the various nineteenth-century arcades here. with traffic careering up and down it nose to tail day and night. however. and heavyweight stores catering for the masses now predominate.uk. Awash with mahogany-fronted jewellers and gentlemen’s outfitters. SHEPHERD MARKET EET 8 Charbonnel et Walker ST BURLINGTON G. Sotheby’s M AD DO X STRE ET ET GREAT MARLB OROUGH ST St George’s T K I N G LY S Liberty CARNABY ST 5 CO N D TRE UIT S Hamleys S O H O BROADWICK ST LEXI NGT ON S T SAVILE ROW OLD B OND S TR EET ALBEMARLE ST R E G E N T Hyde Park Corner N CU MEWS HAYS C H A R L E S S T R E ET BEA K S TR E E T WARWICK ST GOLDEN SQUARE S HERWOOD ST CORK ST WS DOVER ST HEDDON ST BER KEL EY 7 SACKVILLE ST RZ ON STREET OO N ST HA LF M HITE W E ST HORS HAM IL TO N HERT FORD STR BR IC K S PL . In the nineteenth century.
PLACES Piccadilly and Mayfair BURLINGTON ARCADE Burlington House.The country’s firstever formal art school.uk. dominated by perfumeries. £4–9 depending on the exhibition. sing. in their Edwardian frock-coats and gold-braided top hats. which followed less than fifty years later. Despite a price-fixing scandal in 2002 that resulted in the imprisonment of one of its former chairmen and a £12 Royal Academy w www. Gucci and Yves Saint-Laurent.org. Bond Street and around While Oxford Street. Bond Street has carefully maintained its exclusivity. the Academy was founded in 1768 by a group of English painters including Thomas Gainsborough and Joshua Reynolds. and sold. hum. and Contents Places . It is. the oldest of which is Sotheby’s. Daily 10am–6pm. 34–35 (w www.87 its exhibitions tend to be crowd-pleasers. to prevent commoners throwing rubbish into his garden. interspersed with the occasional controversial show guaranteed to grab the headlines. hurry. In addition to fashion.The result is a bewildering display. Supposed gravitas is added by the RA “Academicians”.sothebys. the first president. Upholding Regency decorum. is known as Old Bond Street. Fri till 10pm. in fact. However. Anyone can enter paintings in any style.The college has always had a conservative reputation for its teaching. and the lucky winners get hung. who are allowed to display six of their own works – no matter how awful. the Academy is best known for the Summer Exhibition. whose statue now stands in the main courtyard. its northern extension. one of the few survivors of the aristocratic mansions that once lined Piccadilly. in rather close proximity. but the shops that line them – and those of neighbouring Conduit Street and South Molton Street – are among the flashiest in London. laid out in the 1680s. two streets rolled into one: the southern half. at no. which gets annually panned by the critics. Both are pretty unassuming architecturally. carry large packages or open umbrellas on this small stretch – the arcade’s beadles (known as Burlington Berties). is New Bond Street. jewellers and designer clothing emporia such as Versace. which opens in June and remains an essential stop on the social calendar of upper middle-class England. palette in hand. take the prevention of such criminality very seriously. Regent Street and Piccadilly have all gone downmarket. it is still illegal to whistle. The Royal Academy of Arts (RA) occupies the enormous Burlington House.royalacademy.com). Bond Street is also renowned for its auction houses.
w www.fortnumandmason. Oxford Street w www.The viewing galleries (free) are open to the public. it forms the northern border of Soho.They’re only shops. walk in and look around. head for neighbouring Cork Street. but if you’re interested.The composer used the ground floor as a sort of shop where subscribers could buy scores. Both sets of galleries have impeccably presented and somewhat intimidating staff. this is where Her Majesty binges on chocolate.handelhouse. More formal performances take place on Thursday evenings from 6pm (£5. to the west.oxfordstreet. after all. “Why not spend a day at Selfridges?”. the house has been painstakingly restored.uk. The German- born composer Georg Friedrich Händel (1685–1759) spent the best part of his life in London.com. which comes presented in the most exquisite wrapping. furniture and stationery. this aesthetically unremarkable two-mile hotchpotch of shops is still one of Beautiful and eccentric store offering gorgeously presented and pricey food. producing all his best-known work at what’s now the Handel House Museum. and catering equally well for women as for men.Access to the house is via the chic cobbled yard at the back. as are the auctions themselves. while the first floor was employed as a rehearsal room. includes museum admission).co. the world’s busiest streets.Today. Piccadilly and Mayfair PLACES Handel House Museum 25 Brook St w www.co. with the Queen of Time riding the ship of commerce and supporting an Art Deco clock above the main entrance. Fortnum & Mason 181 Piccadilly t 020/7743 8040.Although containing few original artefacts. business is still booming. Sun noon–6pm.charbonnel . Closed Sun. 28 Old Bond St t 020/7491 0939.brownsfashion. with big international names under the same roof as more cutting-edge. The old Roman road to Oxford has been London’s main shopping mecca for the last hundred years. Charbonnel et Walker 1 Royal Arcade. up-and-coming designers. East of Oxford Circus. Established in 1875. w www. £4. Thurs till 8pm. who flaunted its 130 departments under the slogan. Contents Places .org. Bond Street’s art galleries are another favourite place for the wealthy to offload their heirlooms.50. the one great landmark is Selfridges. also specializes in designer clothes.com.88 million fine.The store was opened in 1909 by Chicago millionaire Gordon Selfridge. he was later pensioned off after running into trouble with the Inland Revenue. despite successive recessions and sky-high rents.uk. and further atmosphere is provided by music students who come to practise on the house’s harpsichords. w www . for contemporary art. a huge Edwardian pile fronted by giant Ionic columns. Hamleys 188–196 Regent St t 0870/333 2455. Shops Browns 23–27 & 50 South Molton St t 020/7514 0052. London’s largest range of designer wear. Tues–Sat 10am–6pm.
but the lunches are exquisitely prepared. w www.uk.com.uk. Possibly the world’s largest toy shop. Serving partly mock-Tudor emporium of luxury. this is London’s ultimate Arabic pastiche café. w www. a full-blown department store.co. homeware and furnishings. Sotheby’s café is by no largest London branch of this British institution offers a huge range of own-brand clothes. Best known for its fabrics. Closed Sun.co.selfridges. food and furnishings. London’s first means cheap. Sotheby’s 34–35 New Bond St w www.marksandspencer.com. airy mecca of clothes. Liberty 210–220 Regent St t 020/7734 1234. Closed Sat & Sun.com. though it is.co. Marks & Spencer 458 Oxford St t 020/7935 7954. Cafés Mô 25 Heddon St.waterstones. bar.sothebys. The Queen’s official bookseller. w www. royal biography and history. one of its best: a huge. flagship bookstore – Europe’s largest – occupies the former Simpson’s department store building and boasts a café.uk. in fact.co. Waterstone’s 203–206 Piccadilly t 020/7851 2400. w www.uk.liberty. and the excellent afternoon teas are a fraction of the price of the nearby hotels. gallery and events rooms as well as five floors of books. SELFRIDGES w www. food. great department store. w www. and certainly a feast for the eyes of most small children. Hatchards holds its own when it comes to quality fiction. with tables and hookahs spilling out onto the pavement of a quiet little Mayfair alleyway.hatchards.89 PLACES Piccadilly and Mayfair ART DECO FACADE. This Hatchards 187 Piccadilly t 020/7439 9921. and still Contents Places . Selfridges 400 Oxford St t 0870/837 7377. The reasonably priced and delicious snacks.hamleys. A fabulous. with lots of gadget demonstrations going on in its six floors of mayhem.
salads. gilded. with terribly English waiters and splendid cocktails from £8 each. Dover Street Wine Bar 8–9 Dover St. flower-strewn mews pub. but for top-quality sushi and sashimi. Take a seat at the traditional sushi bar and wonder at the dexterity of the knife man. this place doesn’t charge the earth. chandeliers and clocks. Claridge’s 49 Brook St w www. mirrored Hollywood decor.savoy-group. with its original Victorian burgundy lincrusta ceiling.com.The menu changes daily. pub.dorchesterhotel . and jolly good cocktails at just under £10 a hit. The bar here has a tasteful Art Deco feel. you can even assemble your own after-dinner cheese platter and pay by weight. jazz and soul bands every night until 3am. Enjoyable central brasserie hosting blues. Busy Victorian free house. Guinea 30 Bruton Place. cakes and pastries) incorporating a small restaurant. Very upmarket takeaway deli (quiche. Pubs and bars Audley 41 Mount St. patés. Closed Sun. Corkage is £4. with a good selection of real ales and an open fire – a great local in the heart of Mayfair. R&B.90 Restaurants Kiku 17 Half Moon St t 020/7499 4208. big booths to ease into. rotisserie chicken. Piccadilly and Mayfair PLACES “Kiku” translates as pricey. CAFÉ CULTURE OFF OXFORD STREET Contents Places . Tiny. Wildly over-the-top Truc Vert 42 North Audley St t 020/7491 9988. A grand Mayfair old-fashioned.com. Ye Grapes 16 Shepherd Market. Dorchester 63 Park Lane w www. serving good Young’s bitter and excellent steak-andkidney pies.50.
Housed in a miniature eighteenth-century French chateau.91 Marylebone Marylebone may not have quite the pedigree and snob value of Mayfair. DORSET STREET STREET MARYLEB 3 MANCHESTER ST Chinese Embassy NT E St Marylebone BEAUMONT ST REGENT'S GREAT PARK PORTLAND STREET EN FO RD ST SEYMO UR PLACE PA H A R L E Y CE PORTLAND PLA BRYANSTON MONTAGU SQUARE SQUARE BLANDFORD ST AY BR OO EATING & DRINKING Barley Mow 3 Fairuz 7 La Galette 2 Golden Hind 9 Match 10 SEYMOUR O’Conor Don STREET 8 Patisserie Valerie at Sagne 5 Paul 6 MARBLE Phoenix Palace 1 ARCH The Providores 4 ET ROBERT ADAM ST MANCHESTER SQUARE THAYER ST MARYLEBONE L ANE P L A C E STREET G R E AT P O R T L A N D RIBA S T R E E T WEYMO UTH AND WESTMORL ST STREET WIMPOLE WIMPOLE M. Park Square Gardens ROAD BICKENHALL ST MARYL EBON DEVONSHIRE PLACE E ROAD MARYLEBONE B A K E R C H I LT E R N RE RK C RESC O N E HI GH YORK STREET ST ET BEAUMONT MEWS CRAWFORD ST STREET PADDINGTON ST REET DEVONSHIRE STREET 2 K ST CRAMER ST MONTAGU PL. its mesh of smart Georgian streets and squares survives more or less intact today. Manchester Square w www. and compared to the brashness of nearby Oxford Street.Velázquez’s Lady with a Fan and Rembrandt’s Marylebone Station BOST ON PL. E. but it’s still a wealthy and aspirational area. look out. village-like quarter around the High Street. Sherlock Holmes Museum GLENTWORTH ST DORSET SQUARE N BAKER STREET Regent's Park 0 200 yds YORK GATE MARYLEBONE ST NOTTINGH AM PLAC E OLDBUR Y PL. O U T E R Y OR K TE RR AC E EAS T C I R C L E PARK SQUARE W. the area only really gets busy and touristy around the north end of Baker Street. PLACES Marylebone Wallace Collection Hertford House. and one of London’s biggest visitor attractions. the Wallace Collection is best known for its eighteenthcentury French paintings (especially Watteau). MARYLEBONE UPPER MONTAGU KNO X ST BALCOMBE G L O U C E S T E R AL 1 Madame Planetarium Tussaud’s BAKER STREET PL .wallacecollection. Madame Tussaud’s waxworks’ extravaganza.org. especially the chi-chi. home of the fictional detective Sherlock Holmes. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm. ST ANDREW’S PL. 4 5 S T R E E T St James’s 6 Wallace GEORGE ST 7 Collection NEW CAVEND ISH STREET STREET WELBEC Broadcasting House LA N G 8 QUEEN ANNE S TR EET K STREET EY ST ER Philli Contents Places RE CE GREAT CUMBERL AND PLA M HA 9 BENTINCK STREET PORTMAN SQUARE All Souls CE PLA WIGM OR E S T R EET JAMES STREET ORCH ARD ST Wigmore Hall HENRIETTA PLACE CAVENDISH SQUARE R E G E NT S T YLE BO MAR GREEN PORTMAN ST Selfridges DUKE STREET MARGA RET ST 10 T ST VERE L NE AN O X F E O R D WEIGHHOUSE STREET S T R E N EW E BOND STREET STREET OXFORD CIRCUS © Crown copyright H UT SO . Built in the eighteenth century. the backstreets of Marylebone are a pleasure to wander. In fact. Sun noon–5pm. too.Titian’s Perseus and Andromeda. LS OP PARK SQ. Free. for Franz Hals’ Laughing Cavalier.
£14. the main staircase remains a wonderful period piece. or if you visit for one of the Tuesday-evening lectures (£6–10) held here. With its sleek 1930s Portland-stone facade.30pm.92 affectionate portrait of his teenage son. the Royal Institute of British Architects (RIBA) headquarters is easily the finest building on Portland Place. The wax RIBA 66 Portland Place w www. rather formal.30pm.95. Sat & Sun 9am–5.30pm. You can view the interior en route to the institute’s often thought-provoking first-floor architectural exhibitions (free) ETCHED BALUSTRADES. the Wallace Collection remains an old-fashioned place. Free. The inner courtyard is now a modern. book your ticket over the phone or online in advance. glassroofed café. RIBA models at Madame Tussaud’s (w www. with exhibits piled high in glass cabinets. paintings covering every inch of wall space and a bloody great armoury.com. After star-spotting at the Garden Party and trawling through the irredeemably tasteless Chamber of Horrors.The entrance fee might be extortionate.The excellent ground-floor bookshop is also worth a browse. but at heart. but you can still rely on finding London’s biggest queues here – to avoid joining them. Inside. and to its café. the likenesses occasionally dubious and the automated dummies inept. with etched glass balustrades. Contents Places .architecture .95. walnut veneer and two large columns of black marble rising up on either side. If you’re here for the paintings. Marylebone PLACES Madame Tussaud’s and the Planetarium Marylebone Rd t 0870/400 3000. Mon–Fri 10am–5.madame-tussauds.Titus. Sat 9am–5pm. school holidays daily 9am–5.com) have been pulling in the crowds ever since the good lady arrived in London in 1802 bearing the sculpted heads of guillotined aristocrats. you’ll find the best works in the Great Gallery. Sat & Sun in peak season £16. Mon–Fri 10am–6pm.
Founded as Swiss-run Maison Sagne in the 1920s.30am–6pm. ST MARYLEBONE’S CHURCH SPIRE the Tussaud’s finale is a manic five-minute “ride” through the history of London in a miniaturized taxi cab. Upmarket.uk.uk. Before launching into the exquisite patisserie. and don a deerstalker to have your picture taken by the fireside. try one of the chewy fougasses.patisserie-valerie. quiches or tarts. Founded in 1914.londonplanetarium. PATISSERIE VALERIE CAKES Contents Places . but there’s no attempt to impart any insights (or even too many basic facts) about Holmes or Doyle. £6. hence the number on the door of the Sherlock Holmes Museum. looking like the great detective himself. and preserving its wonderful period decor. You can stroll in and out of the rooms. seriously French boulangerie with a small wood-panelled café at the back. Sherlock Holmes Museum 239 Baker St w www. Stuffed full of Victoriana and life-size models of characters from the books. the café is now run by Soho’s fab patisserie makers. Daily 9. PLACES Marylebone Patisserie Valerie at Sagne 105 Marylebone High St w www. Sherlock Holmes’s fictional address was 221b Baker Street. Marylebone’s heritage fish and chip restaurant serves classic cod and chips alongside fancier fare. it’s an atmospheric and very competent exercise in period reconstruction.co.sherlockholmes. and is one of Marylebone’s finest. Closed Sun. For an extra £2.co.com) for a thirty-minute high-tech zip through the universe projected onto a giant dome and accompanied by a cosmic astrobabble commentary.93 Cafés Golden Hind 73 Marylebone Lane. Paul 116 Marylebone High St. Eat here or take away.45 you can visit the adjoining London Planetarium (w www.
O’CONOR DON Phoenix Palace 3–5 Glentworth St t 020/7486 3515. which may sound like an untidy assemblage on paper. Pubs and bars Barley Mow 8 Dorset St.uk. driven bar with lots of retro brown leatherette loungers and bottled beers. and the savoury and sweet buckwheat galettes generous.matchbar. where the hors d’oeuvres are very simple and very French. La Galette 56 Paddington St t 020/7935 1554. One of London’s more accessible Middle Eastern restaurants. O’Conor Don 88 Marylebone Lane. be sure to sample the range of Breton ciders. Beautiful The menu here stretches off into the farthest corners of Chinese chefly imagination.theprovidores. Breakfast is available between 10am and 4pm. delicate and fragrant charcoal grills and one or two oven-baked dishes.94 Restaurants Fairuz Marylebone PLACES 3 Blandford St t 020/7486 8182. w www. stout- loving pub that’s a cut above the average. modern pancake place. The Providores 109 Marylebone High St t 020/7935 6175.co. On either level the food. Match Bar 38 Margaret St w www. too. w www. Contents Places . tucked away in the backstreets of Marylebone. Smart. Bright.com. Better still. old pub. the cooking is good and the portions large. with lots of hidden nooks and even some completely enclosed little booths for total privacy.lagalette. is original and wholly satisfying. Closed Sun. A stripped-bare. with an epic list of mezze. Closed Sat & Sun. cool cocktail- Outstanding fusion restaurant split into two distinct areas: snacky Tapa Bar downstairs and full-on restaurant upstairs. with excellent Guinness. a pleasantly easygoing pace and Irish food on offer. Get here early to secure one of the nook-and-crannyish. Closed Sun.com. tentlike tables. and it’s worth a careful read.
95 Soho One of London’s most diverse. cafés and restaurants. whatever the hour. Leicester Square is one of the most crowded places in London. while clubbers hand out flyers to likely looking punters. in a rather halfhearted imitation of the Hollywood tradition. with bars and cafés concentrated around the Old Compton Street area. Cinema moved in during the 1930s – a golden age evoked by the sleek black lines of the Odeon on the east side – and maintains its grip on the area. or to grab a bite to eat or a drink at the incredible variety of cafés. Chinatown is one of London’s most distinct and popular ethnic enclaves. LEICESTER SQUARE Contents Places . queues form for theatre and concert deals at the square’s half-price ticket booth. Soho is very much the heart of the West End. it can seem as if half the youth of the city’s suburbs have congregated here. Most folk head here to visit one of the many cinemas or theatres. however. on a Friday or Saturday night. Soho is also a very upfront gay mecca. even if you just take in the lively fruit and vegetable market on Berwick Street. there’s always something going on. edifices which survive today as cinemas and discos. when the big cinemas and nightclubs are doing brisk business and the buskers are entertaining passers-by. Chinatown A self-contained jumble of shops. It’s been the city’s premier red-light district for centuries. there are even handprints-of-the-stars indented into the pavement of the square’s southwestern corner.The Empire is the favourite for big red-carpet premieres and. restaurants and bars. It wasn’t until the midnineteenth century that the square began to emerge as an entertainment zone. yet it’s a great area to wander through. Centred ODEON CINEMA. supplemented by a vast number of tourists. By day. PLACES Soho Leicester Square By night. busy and characterful areas. with accommodation houses (for prostitutes and their clients) and music halls such as the grandiose Empire and the Hippodrome (just off the square). and retains an unorthodox and slightly raffish air that’s unique for central London. Conventional sights are few and far between.
when the restaurants overflow with Chinese families tucking into dim sum. Most Londoners come to Chinatown simply to eat – easy and inexpensive enough to do. Cantonese cuisine . thick with the aromas of Chinese cooking and peppered with ersatz touches. Few of London’s 70. celebrate a wedding. OXFORD CIRCUS B E D FO VEN RD A UE AD T RO E NE PL AC STREET O X F O R D S T R E E T GT CHAPEL S T London Palladium GR EAT MA Mr Bongo ET POLAND STRE NO EL ST BERW W AR DO UR French Protestant 3 Church 4 DEAN HAN WAY S T GREAT RUSSELL STREET Virgin Megastore TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD N E W O X F O R D ST SOHO ST 5 6 STREET CHAPONE PL. ES’S SQ ST JAM ORAN GE S T R E ET ST M AR EATING & DRINKING Alphabet 12 Bar Italia 14P A Beatroot 13 Busaba Eathai 8 Candy Bar 7 Centrale 18 around Gerrard Street. it’s a tiny area of no more than three or four blocks.000 Chinese actually live in Chinatown. SOHO SQUARE CROSS ROA D STR EET RLB OR OU GH Centrepoint S TG RGH ST ET NEWBU STRE ABY CARN Agent 7 Provocateur 8 11 ST RE ET St Patrick’s Foyles ET GREEK STRE FRITH ES IL TREE ICK S HIG O M PT O LD C BR 19 C R OSS RD VIGO STREET GLA SSH OU T SE DENMAN ST G ER R T ARD S 21 20 ST 22 LISLE S TR EE T NotreDame de France AN B O BE CR AR ST Photographers’ Gallery CRE L ON G A ST GT NEW PORT ST U RN C O VE NTR Y STR EET OXEND Empire W HIT COM B CHARI N G TIN' S N JERM TRE YN S ET PANTON ST ST IRV ING Cecil Court LANE DILLY PICCA PICCADILLY CIRCUS LO W ER BA N ST AL Leicester Square Odeon ST Hippodrome LEICESTER GAR RIC SQUARE K NE W RO W MO NM T REGEN PL. GOLDEN SQUARE EW ER OU S Vintage Palace House R Y Theatre St Anne’s S B U F T E H A S CHINATOWN T WA R D O U R S RO M IL LY ST A V TH CAMBRIDGE CIRCUS Seven Dials ST ST ST BEA WA R W TR EE IC K S TR K S EET Sister EARD ST Ray Daddy M 16 Kool Prowler T EE Soho TR RUPE Ronnie Scott’s 17 CHARING K IN G LY STR EET MARSH ALL ST H ST BRO E K STRE ADWIC T 12 10 S O H O ST BATEMAN 9 13 St Giles’ St Martin’s School of Art NE S ST HOPKIN T S T J AME S ’S . but it nonetheless remains a focus for the community: a place to Contents N T G E R E SACKV T ILLE S LE X IN G TO N STREET 14 15 18 T ON S E W N U E ME RC ER PULTE D ST GREAT WOO NE SHER ER LE LA LOW ES ST B R ID JAM UPPER ST ES JAM ER AIR STREET LOW ST JOHN SH AL UPPER ST JOHN STRE NEY ST ET TO ST ER R E S T GRE T EET RT STR IN D AT W M ILL ST E H AY EN STR EET C Coliseum E DOS PLAC CHAN MAR i China City A L L L M L Chowki Dog & Duck The Edge Freedom Kopi-Tiam E T H RE GE NT ST B ED FO KET S II ST CH AR LE Places S ST RD National Gallery TRAFA LG SQUA AR RE ST © Crown copyright 20 19 9 4 16 A L 22 Lab 15 Red Veg 3 Charing CHARING CROSS Cross Mildred’s 10 The Social 1 Station NORT Mr Kong 21 Spiga HUMBERL 11 A EN Patisserie Valerie 17 The Toucan ND AV6 UE Pizza Express 5 Rasa Samudra 2 L M do business or the weekly shopping. or just meet up for meals – particularly on Sundays.96 RID RIDING HOUSE S T R E ET I SC STR EET CHAR ET ST NASSAU ST GOO DGE 0 STO STREET TRE RE S 150 yds ET M W H IT LO TT F IE L M O R T I M E R S T R E E T RE E ST TOTT G R E AT P O R T L A N D REGENT STREET LITTLE 1 PORTLAND ST TITCHFIELD All Saints STREET W IN D M IL L ST D ST EWS BERNERS M R AT W E L HBO NE NEWMAN ET ENH BERNERS Soho PLACES 2 RATH BO MARGARET PE RC Y ST BEDFORD SQUARE Y B U R M S O O B L L S E E T S T R LA C E NE P A D E LI EET ELL STR MORW ST OUR AM C STREET CASTLE ST G R E AT EASTCASTLE STREET BERNERS PL.
foyles . Lots Old Compton Street If Soho has a main drag. in 1906. One of the nicest places for specialist and antiquarian book-browsing is Cecil Court. but nowadays. boasts the highest concentration of bookshops anywhere in London.co. it’s not just gay bars. it has to be Old Compton Street. was Foyles at no. 5 and a good bookshop at no. clubs and cafés jostling for position on Old Compton Street: there’s a gay-run houseshare agency. One of the first to open here. Upmarket lingerie store for those with an interest in the kitsch. Shops Agent Provocateur 6 Broadwick St t 020/7439 0229.org. Sun noon–6pm. and Ray’s Jazz Shop and café on the first floor. boutiques and trendy cafés here are typical of the area and a good barometer of the latest Soho fads. the southernmost pedestrianized alleyway between Charing Cross Road and St Martin’s Lane. Mon–Sat 11am–6pm. often featuring leading contemporary photographers.agentprovocateur. 119 – De Valera. Daddy Kool 12 Berwick St t 020/7437 3535.daddykoolrecords.You’ll find more of Charing Cross Road’s original character at the string of specialist and secondhand bookshops south of Cambridge Circus. and you’re unlikely to be disappointed wherever you go. Photographers’ Gallery 5 & 8 Great Newport St w www. a financial advice outfit and. sexy and glamorous. PLACES Soho CHINATOWN scene for much of the twentieth century. w www. which marks Soho’s eastern border.uk. a gay taxi service. most of it classic roots and Studio One. even more convenient. Long-established bookstore with a big Silver Moon feminist section. Free.com.uk. George Bernard Shaw. Established in 1971 as the first of its kind in London.photonet. Contents Places . but with some up-to-theminute ragga. Foyles 113–119 Charing Cross Rd t 020/7437 5660.97 predominates. w www. that are invariably worth a browse.com. w www.Walt Disney and Conan Doyle were all once regular customers. Soho has been a permanent fixture on the gay of collectable reggae vinyl. peep shows. the Photographers’ Gallery hosts excellent temporary photographic exhibitions.The corner shops. 8. Note that the gallery has exhibition spaces at two separate addresses. too. with a peaceful café at no. Charing Cross Road Charing Cross Road.
serving coffee. stews and salads in boxes of varying sizes – all for under a fiver. postcards and gifts. A gay Beatroot 92 Berwick St.com. Up-to-the Centrale 16 Moor St. w www.sisterray. stocking lots of fetish gear and erotica. juices and “herbal soups”. croissants and sandwiches more or less around the clock – as it has been doing since 1949. plus lots of electronica and some forays into the current dance scene.uk. garlicky pasta as well as omelettes.uk.mrbongo. plus a great range of literature.co. Bring your own booze. all around the £5 mark. minute indie sounds. Kopi-Tiam 9 Wardour St.co. Bright. w www. brandies and more than seven hundred whiskies line the shelves of this family-run drinker’s paradise. coconut rice. Latin American and Brazilian CDs. Good for Cafés Bar Italia 22 Frith St. friendly Italian café specializing in huge plates of steaming. The Vintage House 42 Old Compton St t 020/7437 2592. Most releases available on vinyl as well as CD.uk. cheap Malaysian café serving up curries. 12’’ singles. Tiny. Wines. doling out delicious cakes plus hot savoury bakes.prowlerstores. art. Sister Ray 94 Berwick St t 020/7287 8385. but don’t drink too much as there are no toilets.98 Soho PLACES SOHO BY NIGHT Mr Bongo 44 Poland St t 020/7287 1887. chicken and chops for around £5. Prowler Soho 3–7 Brewer St t 020/7734 4031. w www. w www.vintagehouse. and lesbian household name. and for hip-hop. Great little veggie café by the market. there’s a 50p corkage charge. Contents Places . This tiny café is a Soho institution.co.
Chowki 2–3 Denman St t 020/7439 1330. Smart. Pizza Express 10 Dean St t 020/7439 8722. China City White Bear Yard. PLACES Soho Red Veg 95 Dean St w www. and attracting a loudtalking. designery and implacably trendy Thai eatery which serves pretty decent food at low prices. fishy south Indian restaurant which produces classy dishes that would be more at home in Mumbai than London. Popular Mildred’s 45 Lexington St t 020/7494 1634. with a chef-owner who pioneered modern Cantonese cuisine: order from the “Today’s” and “Chef ’s Specials” menu. coffee. Rasa Samudra 5 Charlotte St t 020/7637 0222. 25 Lisle St t 020/7734 3388.redveg. and don’t miss the mussels in blackbean sauce. from 9pm until the early hours of Sunday morning. croissant and cake emporium dating from the 1950s.99 Patisserie Valerie 44 Old Compton St w www . Restaurants Busaba Eathai 106–110 Wardour St t 020/7255 8686. dim sum that’s up there with the best and service that is typically “Chinatown brusque”.uk.com.The menu changes every month in order to feature three different regions of India – the set “regional feast” for around £10 is great value. arty. Large. Large. classic munchiefodder: veggie burgers. Dark.busaba. reasonably priced restaurant tucked into a little courtyard. The menu veers towards one-pot dishes. and vegetarians are particularly well catered for. offering stir-fries. Closed Sun.co. w www. noodles and felafel.There’s also a late night session on Saturdays. Enjoy a good pizza. Long-established. pricey. then listen to the resident band or highly skilled guest players. inexpensive Indian restaurant serving authentic homestyle food in stylish surroundings.com. 1980s Soviet chic about this minimalist veggie junk-food outlet. pasta dishes and burgers that are as wholesome. which doles out a short list of cheap. One of Chinatown’s finest. people-watching crowd.patisserie-valerie. SOHO SQUARE Contents Places . buzzy veggie restaurant hidden down a backstreet. CHARLES II STATUE. There’s a faint whiff of Mr Kong 21 Lisle St t 020/7437 7923. delicious and inexpensive as ever. fresh and bright decor.
that retains much of its old character. a great choice of European beers and mouthwatering food. Monkey Mafia). Soho PLACES A pleasantly casual but upmarket Italian affair. Food daily.com. The crucial. Lab 12 Old Compton St w www. a serious wood-fired oven and cool designer looks. makes this the hottest girl-bar in central London.edge. plus cheap. style-conscious and pricey café/bar spread over several floors. Tiny Soho pub former strip joint that stirs up some of the best cocktails in town for a style-conscious crowd of beautiful Soho-ites. Upstairs is light and spacious with decadent leather sofas. So popular it can get mobbed.uk. a good range of real ales and a loyal clientele.com. Busy. The Toucan 19 Carlisle St.com. Pubs and bars Alphabet 61–63 Beak St w www . cocktails and overpriced beer in the evening. especially in summer. Beth Orton. busy. with a lively atmosphere.thecandybar. downstairs. Beautiful Victorian tiling and mosaics. Daily happy hour (5–7pm). Run by the Heavenly record label (St Etienne. pool tables.lab-bar . although this doesn’t seem to stop everyone ending up on the pavement. Freedom 60–66 Wardour St. late- Contents Places . The Social 5 Little Portland St. popular with a straight/gay Soho crowd. Great juices and healthy food in the daytime. Closed Sun. wholesome and filling food. a quiz on Tuesdays and clubby nights at the weekends. w www. this industrial – and often bacchanalian – club-bar and live music venue hosts emerging pop-rock-folk bands on varying week nights. The Edge 11 Soho Square. cruisey vibe opening place. Small pub serving excellent Guinness and a wide range of Irish whiskies.alphabetbar.100 Spiga 84–86 Wardour St t 020/7734 3444. Chic. interesting art exhibitions and DJs most nights. Candy Bar 4 Carlisle St w www. Closed Sun.uk. Hip.co . multicoloured Dog & Duck 18 Bateman St. the dimmed coloured lights and car seats strewn around make for an altogether seedier atmosphere.
Mon–Wed. Thurs & Fri 10am–8. GORDON SQUARE Foster. PLACES Bloomsbury British Museum Great Russell St w www.30pm. Other highlights include a splendid series of Assyrian reliefs from Nineveh. Only in its northern fringes does the character of the area change dramatically. the building itself is the grandest of London’s Greek Revival edifices. and is most famous for the Parthenon sculptures. bourgeois Georgian squares laid out then remain the area’s main distinguishing feature. and the formal. and its central Great Court (Mon–Wed. all housed under one roof. the Egyptian collection is easily the most significant outside Egypt. Contents Places . Bloomsbury acquired a reputation as the city’s most learned quarter. drawings and books. The BM’s collection of Roman and Greek antiquities is unparalleled. but perhaps best known for its literary inhabitants. better known as the Elgin Marbles after the British aristocrat who walked off with the reliefs in 1801. among them T. ranging from monumental sculptures to the ever-popular mummies and their ornate outer caskets.101 Bloomsbury Bloomsbury was built over in grid-plan style from the 1660s onwards. Begun in 1823. Sat & Sun 9am–6pm. One of the great museums of the world. and several extraordinary artefacts from Mesopotamia such as the enigmatic Ram in the Thicket (a goat statuette in lapis lazuli and shell) and the remarkable hoard of goldwork known as the Oxus Treasure. dominated by the dual institutions of the British Museum and London University. Sat & Sun 10am–5. where Karl Marx penned Das Kapital. Also on display is the Rosetta Stone. Elsewhere.30pm. Eliot and Virginia Woolf.uk. which finally unlocked the secret of Egyptian hieroglyphs.ac. prints.britishmuseum. The leathery half-corpse of the 2000-year-old Lindow Man. At the Court’s centre stands the copper-domed former Round Reading Room of the British Library. becoming steadily more seedy as you near the two big main-line train stations of Euston and King’s Cross. the British Museum contains an incredible collection of antiquities.Thurs & Fri 9am–11pm) now features a remarkable curving glass-andsteel roof designed by Norman BLOOMSBURY GROUP PLAQUE.S. In the twentieth century. and home to many of London’s chief book publishers. Free.
more than six hundred years after the likes of Oxford and Cambridge. GORDON SQUARE TAVISTOCK SQUARE LEIGH ST Percival David Foundation WOBURN PLACE TAV I S T O C K P L A C E TORRING TON PLACE T ST University Bookshop GOWER STREET S TR EE University Church MALET Gay’s the Word HMON ST EATING & DRINKING AbenoE 7 Cigala S T R 3 EE Coffee GalleryT 6 CRO King’sEBar 1 M R STR The Lamb E E T2 Museum Tavern 4 Wagamama 5 ARGY L REGENT SQ.lon. London has more students than any other city in the world (over half a million at the last count). Don’t miss the museum’s expanding ethnographic collection.The university started life in Bloomsbury. NORT BLOOMSBURY HING TON ST G R A Y ’ S L ST Playin’ Atlantis Games Bookshop MUSEUM ST OG ER ST I N N QUEEN SQUARE Dickens’ House R O A D Brunei Gallery B ER N M A RC CHEN IES ST 1 RUSSELL SQUARE ARD S TR EE Skoob Books T H U N TE R HUNTLE Y STREET B E D F O R D WAY Brunswick Centre N RIDGEMOUNT ST SOUTHAM MONTAGUE STREE T BEDFOR D PLACE BLO OM S B U RY S TR E E T W PTON RO R COPTIC ST ST GI L E S H I . BR OWNLO W M. to twentieth-century exhibits such as a copper vase by Frank Lloyd Wright. plus the new African galleries in the basement. Contents Places KING’S M. ornate snuffboxes. ENDSLEIGH PL. HASTI N G S ST UNIVERSITY ST WOBURN WALK CAPPER ST Goodge St University College Petrie Museum MALET PL. WOBURN PL. In the north wing of the museum. but it wasn’t until after World War I that the institution really began to take over the area. including the atmospheric Mexican and North American galleries. FLA TER T C A RT W RI G H S G DN BI DBOR OUG H ST MIDL A ND British Library St Pancras Station King’s Cross Station KING'S CROSSST PANCRAS U P. which isn’t bad going for a city that only organized its own University in 1826. range from the twelfth-century Lewis chessmen carved from walrus ivory.uk. EUSTON SQUARE GOW ER PLAC E GOWER STREET E U S T Stern’s African Record Centre O N DUKE'S RD R O A D New St Pancras ENDSLEI GH GDNS ENDSLEIGH ST Bloomsbury PLACES TOTTENHA M CARTWRIGHT GDNS GRAFTON WAY SANDWICH ST THAN ET ST Strang Print Room AN XM R. too. DOUGHTY ST ST RE ET 2 NORTH M. S ID M O U TH ST CO RA M T JUDD STREET G OR DON S T RADA STREET STORE STREET KEPPEL ST Senate House RUSSELL SQUARE BAYLEY ST ADELINE PLACE M ONTA GUE PL AC E G U I L F O R D Coram’s Fields S T R E E T EET AN STR DOUGHTY M.ac.102 CHURCH WAY ROAD D R U M MO ND S TREE T EVERSHOLT ST CHALTON ST OSSULSTON ST PAN CRAS R D 0 WARREN STREET COU RT RD 200 yds MELTON ST Euston Station EUSTON EUSTON SQUARE GRAFTON PL. and the Anglo-Saxon treasure from the Sutton Hoo ship burial are among the highlights of the Prehistoric and RomanoBritish collection. miniature landscapes and a bewildering array of Buddhist and Hindu gods. London University w www. meanwhile. BEDFORD SQUARE OLD GLOUCESTER ST S CO N DU IT BEDFORD AVENUE GR EAT ORDE HALL ST B OSWELL S TR EET 3 MILLM British Museum GREAT ORM OND ST Bookmarks RU SS EL BR I D G ST EM ER BEDFORD AL D ST ROW GT J AM E JOCK EY’S FS S ST HARPUR ST LA M B' JO HN SQUARE 6 RED GH ST Y UR SB E TE U AF EN SH AV BLOOMS BURY NEW OXF ORD ST SICILIAN AVENUE RED LION SQUARE LION S T WAY DR A K E ST 7 St George SO’TON PL.The medieval and modern collections. 5 E ST NEW OXFO RD S Gosh! T DYOTT ST B A IN 4 T GREAT RUSS ELL STREE BURY PL. E O B A L D ' S T H PRINCETO N ST R O A D Gray’s Inn Gardens Holborn © Crown copyright discovered in a Cheshire bog. there are also fabulous Oriental treasures including ancient Chinese porcelain. closest to the back entrance on Montague Place.
ac.uk) has a couple of rooms jam-packed with antiquities. an understandably ragged pleated garment worn by an Ancient Egyptian teenager around 3000 BC. while the temporary exhibitions of photography and art at the Brunei Gallery (Mon–Fri 10. at no.pdfmuseum. behind the British Museum. the exterior’s redbrick brutalism is horribly out of fashion.bl. PLACES Bloomsbury LONDON UNIVERSITY’S SENATE HOUSE London University Museums and the Brunei Gallery On the first floor of London University’s D. Sat 10am–1pm.ac. free.103 This piecemeal development means that departments are spread over a wide area. British Library 96 Euston Rd t 020/7412 7332. Tues 9. Sat 9.Watson building on Malet Place. Sun 11am–5pm. which puts on temporary exhibitions from its collection at the Strang Print Room.ucl. UCL is home to London’s most famous art school.30am–5pm.30am–8pm.S.30am–5pm. 53. topped by a wax head and widebrimmed hat. call t 020/7679 2540 to check hours or what’s on. call t 020/ 7898 4915 to see what’s on.Tucked away in the southeast corner of Gordon Square.org. Free. Certainly. in the south cloister of the main quadrangle (term-time Wed–Fri 1–5pm. near the top of Gower Street. free). w www. the Slade. w www .M. there’s more specialist interest at the Percival David Foundation of Chinese Art (Mon–Fri 10. including the world’s oldest dress.uk/gallery).uk).Also on display in the south cloisters is the fullyclothed skeleton of philosopher Jeremy Bentham (1748–1832). The library’s reading rooms are accessible to its members only. but the interior of the library has met with general approval and the high-tech exhibition galleries are superb. it was hardly surprising that the British Library drew fierce criticism from all sides. w www.uk.petrie. w www.30am–5pm. the Petrie Museum of Egyptian Archeology (Tues–Fri 1–5pm.ucl.ac. free. Mon & Wed–Fri 9. Opened in 1998 as the country’s most expensive public building. free.30am–6pm. which is part of the School of Oriental and African Studies. which boasts two floors of top-notch Chinese ceramics. though the main focus is between the 1930s Senate House skyscraper on Malet Street. and compares unfavourably with its cathedralesque Victorian neighbour. but its exhibition galleries Contents Places .uk). are usually well worth visiting. one of the university’s founders. w www .soas. and the Neoclassical University College (UCL.
dormers and chimneypots forms the facade of St Pancras Station. collected by George III and donated to the museum by George IV in 1823.uk.These days.The Workshop of Words. In comparison King’s Cross Station. in fact. though it was simple and graceful enough until British Rail added the soon-to-be-demolished modern forecourt. pulps. a multistorey glass-walled tower housing the vast King’s Library. straight ahead is the spiritual heart of the BL. as 9 and 10 are unphotogenic sideplatforms. Gay’s the Word 66 Marchmont St t 020/7278 7654. to the side of the King’s Library are the pull-out drawers of the philatelic collection. The first of the three exhibition galleries to head for is the dimly lit John Ritblat Gallery. shot between platforms 4 and 5. RUSSELL SQUARE extensive collection of lesbian and gay classics.theatlantisbookshop . are displayed. Bloomsbury PLACES St Pancras & King’s Cross stations Euston Rd. the station is best known as the place from which Harry Potter and his wizarding chums leave for school on the Hogwarts Express from platform 9 3/ . An RUSSELL HOTEL. a small room off the main gallery where you can “turn” the pages of selected texts on a computer terminal. maps.com. Sounds and Images is a hands-on exhibition of more universal appeal.The scenes from 4 the film are. witchcraft and the like. Splendid occult-oriented place. including the richly illustrated Lindisfarne Gospels. for which there is sometimes an admission charge. Shops Atlantis Bookshop 49a Museum St t 020/7405 2120. is a mere shed. where a superlative selection of ancient manuscripts. calendars and Contents Places .co. w www.These are situated to the left as you enter.gaystheword. Completed in 1876.104 are open to all. the former Midland Grand Hotel’s majestic sweep of Neo-Gothic lancets. psychic phenomena. documents and precious books. where you can design your own literary publication. w www. contemporary fiction and nonfiction. One of the most appealing innovations is “Turning the Pages”. while the Pearson Gallery of Living Words puts on excellent temporary exhibitions. opened in 1850. plus cards. with the perfect ambience for browsing through books and magazines covering spirituality.
fresh ingredients and real passion are evident at this Iberian restaurant.uk. Two floors of traditional board games (Scrabble.playingames. Pleasant Young’s pub with a marvellously well-preserved Victorian interior of mirrors. dishes. Cluedo etc). Students get a ten-percent discount.105 weekly lesbian discussion groups and readings. Cut-price current and recent secondhand academic titles. Simple Playin’ Games 33 Museum St t 020/7323 3080. Japanese restaurant specializing Contents Places . copied since.goshlondon. in open kitchen okonomi-yaki.com. this was the pioneer of austere. Right opposite the main entrance to the British Museum. Restaurants Abeno 47 Museum St t 020/7405 3211. which is something like a sloppy pizza crossed with a solid omelette.com. this large and characterful old pub was where Marx took a break from writing Das Capital over the road in the BM. fantasy games and more. too. canteen-style noodle bars. w www. w www.cigala. café serving mouthwatering Italian sandwiches. It’s also a lot less posh – and more fun – than most hotel bars. where a paella will set you back around £15. off Bernard St t 020/7278 8760. poetry. war games. strong flavours. then layered with all manner of odds and ends – all for around £10. minimalist. World famous for its global specialisms.uk. w www. Much Skoob Books 10 Brunswick Centre.co. Gosh! 39 Great Russell St t 020/7636 1011. The Lamb 94 Lamb’s Conduit St. and a few more substantial dishes at lunchtime.co. and excellent selections from pretty much everywhere else in the world.com. and you get free bowls of nibbles. w www. Russell Square. plus backgammon. this expert store has an unrivalled stock of African music. Museum Tavern 49 Great Russell St. Wagamama 4 Streatham St t 020/7836 3330.skoob. Stern’s African Record Centre 293 Euston Rd t 020/7387 5550. Cigala 54 Lamb’s Conduit St t 020/7405 1717. old wood and “snob” screens. Get there early to grab a seat. whether you’re casually curious or a serious collector. Pubs and bars King’s Bar Great Russell Hotel. All kinds PLACES Bloomsbury of comics for all kinds of readers. travel and more.wagamama. as well as modern fiction. Excellent small The magnificent high ceilings and wood panelling of this Victorian hotel bar provide a great place in which to luxuriate. Cafés Coffee Gallery 23 Museum St. w www. which serves filling main meals for under £10.
restaurants and arts-and-crafts stalls. London’s oldest planned square. cobbled piazza were restored to house shops. as well as numerous unusual shops. and it’s filled with memorials to international thespians from Boris Karloff to Gracie Fields.The proximity of so many theatres has earned it the nickname of the “Actors’ Church”. are survivors in this tradition. though. the occasional funfair and an annual Christmas market.co. Eventually. a large covered market was constructed in the middle of the square. Instead. laid out in the 1630s by Inigo Jones. selling everything from shoes to skateboards. the elegant Victorian market hall and its largely pedestrianized. it was very nearly demolished to make way for an office development.org. but in addition. and St Paul’s Church on the west side. Covent Garden Piazza was initially a great success – its novelty value alone ensured a rich and aristocratic clientele for the surrounding properties. Over the next century. The Royal Opera House. the tone of the place fell as the fruit and vegetable market expanded. its success prompting a wholesale gentrification of the streets all around. alongside the area’s buskers and numerous theatres.The space in front of the church’s Tuscan portico – Contents Places . and theatres and coffee houses began to take over the peripheral buildings.coventgardenmarket.106 Covent Garden Covent Garden’s transformation from a fruit. Some three centuries ago the piazza served as the great playground (and red-light district) of eighteenth-century London. vegetable and flower market into a fashion-conscious shopping quarter was one of the most miraculous developments of the 1980s. the old warehouses around Neal Street boast some of the most fashionable shops in the West End. Covent Garden PLACES Covent Garden Piazza w www. The only COVENT GARDEN BICYCLE TAXIS remaining parts of the original piazza are the two rebuilt sections of arcading on the north side. St Paul’s Church Covent Garden Piazza w www. Boosted by high-quality buskers and street entertainers.actorschurch. the piazza is now one of London’s major tourist attractions. but when the flower market closed in 1974. Nearby.uk. there are now year-round stalls selling everything from antiques to Union Jack T-shirts.
107 BL EARNSHAW ST FISH Centrepoint G ST NE W MUSEUM ST SH AF TE SB UR YA VE 2 1 OXFO RD S TREE T H IG H H OLBO HOLBORN GATE ST T ARK S DENM ES IL ROAD T MANETTE ST St Giles-inthe-Fields Y STACE ST NE W CO HIG HS TRE ET HIGH HO RN LBO KELE YS T TREE LIN STR RN NEWTON STRE C R OS S PHOENIX ST MP TO N S DR EET STR SH WE ST S T AF TE SB Y UR E AV NU E see inset below RTS GAR D ENS STU EET PLACES Covent Garden UR AN Y L MA CK ET NEAL’S YARD CAMBRIDGE CIRCUS SHO NEA SHELTON ST E ST ARN PA RK ER ST RE ET REMNANT ST EARL TOW HAM TH OU CHARING Seven Dials STRE ET MER NM SH S TR E LT O N EET Q E AT G R Freemasons’ Hall W ILD ST RE KEE EN UE S TR EET EN D N L ELL STR EET E L ER S T CH MO LIT FIE 3 LD UPP ST M ER ART IN LAN ’S E ST COVENT GARDEN JAM T ES S G LON AC RE LEY ST STR CE R STRE ET 4 STR EET RT OU DC OA BR ET SARDINIA ST EET K I N G S W A Y GT N EWP 5 ORT ST LEICESTER SQUARE E ’S L AN LO N G Stanford’s GA RR IC K ST RE ACR 6 ET CEC IL CT7 NEW R OW E STRE K IN G RDBU MA BE D FO ST MAY’S COURT T R Theatre L S Royal E T SSEL Covent Garden R U E TR Piazza S 8 St Paul’s London’s Jubilee ET Market C K Transport Museum STRE O IE T TA TH CA T Royal Opera Jones F L House Benjamin Pollock’s Toyshop L ORA E Theatre Museum E KE M BL TREE T ES AN STREE T KE DR UR ALDWYCH RTIN RY HENR TAV IST Bush House St Maryle-Strand SURREY STREET LANE MAIDEN EX ET ER STRE ET W IL L IA DUN CAN NON Davenport’s Magic Shop ST CH A M IV STR E PL A CE NDOS ST AGAR ET 9 RSA JOH N ADA M N D R A S T 10 Savoy Hotel T S NE NG LA CARTI Savoy Chapel SA VO Y ST Somerset House King’s College HOU G ST H BO W STR EET PORTU G A L ST Y ST LA NE ET LSE TO N ER INE BEDF S O U TH ORD GH ST RLEI BU ON AM PT STRE ET K Y O R IN G S D B U IL ST LAN CAS TER PL. Contents Places . the churchyard provides a tranquil respite from the activity outside – access is from King Street. Round the back. ET STRE ADAM T RT ST ROBE CHARING CROSS NO RT AV HUM EN UE BER LA ND Charing Cross Station EMBANKMENT A R I nt T O me ank I C mb V ia E tor Cleopatra’s Vic Needle Y V O S A dens Gar P LA C E E M B A N K M E N T VIL LIE DGE WATER LOO BRI RS WHITEHALL PLACE IT E C O H A LL UR T CR AV River Thames 0 100 yds ST EN ST RE RE ET ET © Crown copyright 0 50 yds U SB RY AV EN UE 12 ST TH Hungerford Bridge 11 SH AF TE OU 13 NEAL’S YARD Duffer of St George RD S GA 14 EATING & DRINKING (main map) AKA 1 Lamb & Flag American Bar 10 Porterhouse Café des Amis 4 Punch & Judy First Out 2 Salisbury The Ivy 3 Zoomslide Café (inset map) Belgo Centraal The Bünker Detroit Food for Thought Mode Monmouth Coffee Company Rock & Sole Plaice World Food Café EN 6 9 8 7 5 18 17 15 16 11 12 14 13 DEL WH T LS NEA 15 EARLH AM ST MO NM OU TH ST RT SHO Neal’s Yard Neal’s Yard Dairy Remedies 16 Seven E A R L H A M S 17 Dials T T 18 REE ON S T Koh Samui S H E LT Birkenstock HA T IN G NOT COURT NM MO MER CER ST L STR EET ENS M T ER S TOW where Eliza Doolittle was discovered selling violets by Henry Higgins in George Bernard Shaw’s Pygmalion – is now a legalized venue for buskers and street performers. who must audition for a slot months in advance. Henrietta Street or Bedford Street.
theatremuseum. dating from 1811. whose main Neoclassical facade.The corridors of glass cases cluttered with props. the Strand is a shadow of its former self today.95. 12. and you can buy reproductions. beyond the Amphitheatre bar/restaurant.royaloperahouse. built in 1889 and still London’s grandest hotel. w www. £7). Guccio Gucci started TRAMS. The ever-popular collection also has enough interactive fun – touch-screen computers. On the south side of the Strand. César Ritz was the original manager. Sat & Sun 10am–6pm.ltmuseum. Free. the market’s spectacular wrought-iron Floral Hall (daily 10am–3pm) was transformed into the opera house’s new first-floor foyer. and usually have a performance. The Theatre Museum Russell St t 020/7943 4700. Backstage tours of the opera house take place from Monday to Saturday (10. There’s usually a good smattering of stylish maps and posters on display.30 & 2. characterized more by the young homeless who shelter in the shop doorways at night. Royal Opera House Bow St t 020/7304 4000.org. a blind side street – where the traffic drives on the right – leads to the Savoy.30am. w www.co. trains and trams of London’s Transport Museum. Fri 11am–6pm. both this and the glorious terrace overlooking the piazza. vehicles to climb on and the odd costumed conductor – to keep most children amused. Strand Once famous for its riverside mansions. are open to the public. Covent Garden’s former Covent Garden PLACES flower market hall now serves as a retirement home for the old buses. opens onto Bow Street (which you can reach via a passageway in the corner of the arcading).108 London’s Transport Museum Covent Garden Piazza w www. exciting.uk.The museum also runs a booking service for West End shows and has an unusually good selection of cards and posters. £5.org. the Theatre Museum displays three centuries of memorabilia from the Western performing arts. LONDON’S TRANSPORT MUSEUM Contents Places . Mon–Thurs. but the special exhibitions and long-term “temporary” shows tend to be a lot more fun. and later its music halls. bus and tram paraphernalia. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. at the shop on the way out. plus countless other tube.30pm. programmes and costumes are not especially arcading in the northeast side of the piazza was rebuilt in the late 1990s as part of the multimillion pound redevelopment of the Royal Opera House. too. workshop or hands-on element to them. Also housed in the old flower market hall. As part of the redevelopment.
and are not. and the magnificent Gilbert Collection (£5. thus refer to the friendship between the US and Britain. Bush House Strand w www. and created a new stretch of parkland with a riverside walk – no longer much fun due to the volume of traffic that barrels along it. Somerset House’s four wings enclose an elegant and surprisingly large courtyard. and the list of illustrious guests is endless. London’s oldest monument. in winter.The 60-foot-high. but now also houses a series of museums and galleries. The south wing. w www.org.uk).bbc.hermitagerooms. overlooking the Thames.The giant figures on the north facade and the inscription. SOMERSET HOUSE COURTYARD FOUNTAINS 10am–6pm. languishes little-noticed on the Thames side of the embankment. Somerset House Victoria Embankment w www . whose project simultaneously relieved congestion along the Strand. featuring changing displays of anything from paintings to Fabergé eggs drawn from St Petersburg’s Hermitage Museum. PLACES Covent Garden Home of the BBC’s World Service since 1940.109 out as a dishwasher here.somerset-house. clocks. 180-ton stick of granite in fact has nothing to do with Cleopatra – it’s one of a pair originally erected in Heliopolis in 1475 BC (the other one is in New York’s Central Park). portrait miniatures and snuffboxes. t 020/7845 4600. interior daily the grand edifices which once lined this stretch of the riverfront. “To the Eternal Friendship of English-speaking Nations”. displaying decorative artworks from European silver and gold to micro-mosaics. the declaratory manifesto of the current occupants. provided an extension to the underground railway and sewage systems. Cleopatra’s Needle.co. Courtyard and terrace daily 10am–11pm. Bush House was actually built by the American speculator Irving T. Contents Places . a wonderful 55-jet fountain spouts straight from the courtyard’s cobbles.com). is home to the Hermitage Rooms (£5. though it does afford some good views over the water.gilbertcollection. w www. The monumental Palladian building itself was begun in 1776 by William Chambers as a purpose-built governmental office development. the Victoria Embankment was the inspiration of French engineer Joseph Bazalgette.uk. Sole survivor of Victoria Embankment Built between 1868 and 1874.org. From March to October. as many people assume. Free. Bush. an ice rink is set up in its place. whose planned trade centre flopped in the 1930s.uk/worldservice.
You can taste before you buy. The Cafés Food for Thought 31 Neal St. van Dyck. including one of his series of Card Players. Duffer of St George 29 Shorts Gardens t 020/7379 4660. stocking pretty much any map of anywhere. Long-established but world’s oldest family-run magic business. Neal’s Yard Remedies 15 Neal’s Yard t 020/7379 7662. as well as a few exceptionally good ones from further afield.uk. w www. Shops Benjamin Pollocks’ Toyshop 44 The Market. nubuk and vegan styles.nealsyardremedies. Davenport’s Magic Shop 7 Charing Cross Tube Arcade. w www. entirely efficacious herbal cosmetics.110 In the north wing are the Courtauld Institute galleries (£5.pollockscoventgarden.co. shoes. as well as twentieth-century paintings and sculptures by. jack-inthe-boxes and so on. suede. free Mon 10am–2pm. sandals and shoes in leather. London’s finest cheese shop.com. The world’s Comfortable. Stanford’s Map and Travel Bookshop 12–14 Long Acre t 020/7836 1321. eclectic and urban feel. and Degas’s Two Dancers. w www. Strand t 020/7836 0408. Beautiful. Rodin and Henry Moore. chiefly known for their dazzling collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist paintings. Covent Garden PLACES Covetable own-label boys’ casuals and streetwear.ac. Neal’s Yard Dairy 17 Shorts Gardens t 020/7240 5700. Derain. The Courtauld also boasts a fine selection of works by the likes of Rubens. Koh Samui 65 Monmouth St t 020/7240 4280.thedufferofstgeorge.courtauld. Covent Garden t 020/7379 7866. jackets and so on. Matisse. glove puppets. old-fashioned toys. Tiepolo and Cranach the Elder. stocking a huge array of marvellous tricks for amateurs and professionals.uk). Renoir’s La Loge.com. w www .uk. toiletries remedies. Among the most celebrated works are a small-scale version of Manet’s nostalgic Bar at the Folies-Bergère. plus a huge range of guides and travel literature. plus range of other hip designers in the land of jeans. largest specialist travel bookshop.co. Dufy.uk. w www. w www. plus a whole heap of Cézanne’s canvases. w www. among others. beautifully presented.davenportsmagic. with a huge selection of quality cheeses from around the British Isles.co. Fabulously scented. The leading promoter of young British designers (and some bigname foreigners too).birkenstock. this one-stop boutique offers a highly selective range of mens’ and womenswear with an elegant. classic and very fashionable clogs. Kandinksy. for grownups as well as children: toy theatres. Birkenstock 37 Neal St t 020/7240 2783.uk.stanfords.co. minuscule bargain veggie restaurant and takeaway counter – the tasty and filling menu Contents Places .
Expect to queue.caprice-holdings. PLACES Covent Garden Restaurants Belgo Centraal 50 Earlham St t 020/7813 2233. Pubs and bars AKA 18 West Central St w www. sandwiches. Massive metal-minimalist cavern serving excellent kilo buckets of moules marinière. Minimalist club bar.co. NEAL’S YARD changes twice daily. traditional fish and chip shop in central London. Cramped wooden booths and daily newspapers on hand evoke an eighteenth-century coffee house atmosphere – pick and mix your coffee from a fine selection.uk. when the windows are flung open and you can gaze down upon trendy humanity as you tuck into pricey but tasty dishes from all corners of the globe. ALFRESCO LUNCH. Regency-style restaurant built in 1928 that’s long been a theatreland and society favourite. salads and cakes. off Long Acre t 020/7379 3444. Rock & Sole Plaice 47 Endell St. Closed Sun. eat inside or opt for one of the pavement tables. The Ivy 1 West St t 020/7836 4751. this is a wonderfully inexpensive and peaceful haven serving soups. Closed Sun. Monmouth Coffee Company 27 Monmouth St. Café des Amis 11–14 Hanover Place.worldfoodcafe . The pre.com.The only problem is getting a table. w www.and post-theatre set menus are a real bargain.111 exhibition spaces.com. A rare survivor: a no- Modern. First-floor veggie café that comes into its own in summer.uk. Take away. for around £6. Situated in the middle of one of the Photographers’ Gallery a chrome balcony overlooking Contents Places .cafedesamis.The lunchtime specials. with frites and mayonnaise. and don’t expect to linger at peak times. w www. either book months ahead or go for the bargain £19 three-course weekend lunch.the-end . World Food Café 14 Neal’s Yard w www. with valet parking thrown in.uk. Expensive. with Zoomslide Café 5 Great Newport St. w www .belgo-restaurants.co.co. Closed Sun. are a bargain for central London. nonsense. washed down with Belgian beers and waffles for dessert. clean and bright French restaurant whose menu darts from influence to influence: salmon terrine with guacamole meets confit of halibut and pumpkin gnocchi. and includes vegan and wheat-free options.
West End’s original gay café/bar: upstairs is airy and non-smoking.com. ales and lagers to choose from. Punch & Judy 40 The Market. One of the atmospheric pub. hidden away down an alley between Garrick Street and Floral Street.the-savoy . Bünker Bier Hall 41 Earlham St w www.porterhousebrewco. A pianist plays Mon–Sat 7–11pm. Detroit 35 Earlham St w www. and a wellstocked bar which dispenses good food. SEVEN DIALS SUNDIALS First Out 52 St Giles High St w www. lots of brushed steel and pricey. Loud.com. etched and engraved windows. brick-vaulted basement bar with wrought-iron pillars. Busy. bronze statues. Lamb & Flag 33 Rose St. Horribly mobbed and loud. buzzing micro-brewery which has eschewed Victoriana for lots of exposed wood and copper pipes. Strand w www. strong brews.com. downstairs dark and foggy. redvelvet seating and a fine lincrusta ceiling. secluded Gaudíesque booths.com. DJs take over at the weekends. Busy. most made on the premises. Cavernous underground venue with an open-plan bar area. The Porterhouse 21–22 Maiden Lane w www. Closed Sun. Plenty of ownbrewed stouts. or at least very smart. tiny and highly Salisbury 90 St Martin’s Lane. Contents Places .112 the main floor. Dress code is jacket and tie. most superbly preserved Victorian pubs in London – and certainly the most central – with cut. On Friday’s there’s a busy pre-club warm-up session for women.com.bunkerbar. gay men are welcome as guests. but boasting an unbeatable location with a very popular balcony overlooking Covent Garden Piazza. and lots of suits to rub shoulders with.detroit-bar. Covent Garden PLACES American Bar The Savoy. a huge range of spirits and excellent cocktails. John Dryden was attacked here in 1679 after scurrilous verses had been written about one of Charles II’s mistresses (by someone else as it turned out). Utterly gorgeous Art Deco bar that’s famous for its cocktails (a snip at £10 a throw).firstoutcafebar.
Temple Church (Wed–Sun 11am–4pm.gov. The two Temple Inns share use of the complex’s oldest building. Appeals and libel suits are heard here – countless pop and soap stars have battled it out with the tabloid press. built in 1185 by the Knights Templar. Hostels. the Royal Courts of Justice are where England’s most important civil cases are tried.The hall is worth a visit for its fine hammerbeam roof. attended lectures and slept in the Middle Temple Hall (Mon–Fri 10am–noon & 3–4pm. every aspiring barrister must study at one of the Inns. but the overall scene is dominated by neo-Georgian reconstructions that followed the devastation of the Blitz.30pm. which is believed to have been premiered here in 1602.middletemple.org.A few very old buildings survive here. An oblong chancel was added in the thirteenth century. Still. Home to the Court of Appeal and the High Court. Mon–Fri 8. the maze of courtyards and passageways is fun to explore – especially after dark. and is made up of two Inns: Middle Temple (w www .uk) and Inner Temple (w www. and tortured grotesques grimacing in the spandrels of the blind arcading. Contents Places . the hall provided the setting for many great Elizabethan masques and plays – probably including Shakespeare’s Twelfth Night. Strategically placed between the royal and political centre of Westminster and the financial might of the City. known as Inns of Court. PLACES Holborn Temple Temple is the largest and most complex of the Inns of Court.courtservice. but the original round church – modelled on the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem – still stands. this wedge of land became the hub of the English legal system in the early thirteenth century. w www. Medieval students ate. Constructed in the 1560s. Royal Courts of Justice Strand t 020/7947 6000. and the whole building was damaged in the Blitz. even today. free). w www.The fifty-odd courtrooms are open to the public. though you have to go through stringent security checks first (strictly no cameras allowed). were established where lawyers could eat. recumbent marble effigies of knights. still the Inn’s main dining room. whose archaic.uk). cobbled precincts dominate the area and exude the rarefied atmosphere of an Oxbridge college.113 Holborn Holborn (pronounced “Hoe-bun”) is a fascinating area to explore.uk.30am–4. wooden panelling and decorative Elizabethan screen.com).innertemple . in order to qualify.templechurch.org. while appeals have led to freedom for those wrongfully imprisoned. with its striking Purbeckmarble piers. such as the high-profile Birmingham Six and Guilford Four. when Temple is gas-lit. Free. sleep and study English Common Law.
a pupil of William Caxton. in order to be close to the Inns of Court (lawyers were among his best customers) and to the clergy of St Paul’s. NS TIL E HOLBORN H I G H H O L B O R N S DING E BUIL STON 1 GS ILDIN S O ’ T ON BU GATE ST BUILDIN GS Sir John Soane’s Museum W TO HETS LANE T NAN REM ST FU RN IV LI 'S N C O LN E LD IN N FI Lincoln’s Inn Old Hall AL ST ORD TWYF E PLAC RK N E PA S HO LB OR N BR OO KE CHANCERY LANE St Etheldreda HOLBORN CIRCUS INN PLE STA Staple Inn Lincoln’s Inn Fields L IN C OLD SQUARE St Andrew ST DREW ST AN FETTER MB PO R LE TU LSE HOUGH TO DR Royal Courts of Justice UR Y LA NE T Theatre Royal KS OC IST Temple Bar St Clement Danes ND STRA S U R R EY MIL DEVEREUX COURT St Maryle-Strand ST LAN CAS TER PLAC E AV EN UE RA ND Middle Temple E LAN FOUNTAIN COURT KING'S BENCH WALK BO UV ER BRICK COURT WHI T E F R IARS STRE ET IE ST RE D W Y C H AL Bush House TA V ET ND STRA E M ID D L E T E M PL T EX S ESS Dr Johnson’s House St Dunstan's.GOUGH SQ. NEW ST T PRIN TER ST Freemasons’ Hall Royal College of Surgeons (Hunterian L S T Museum) GA IN N O L N 'S F IE L D NEW SQUARE BREAM’S BUILDINGS CHAN NE W ET S SERL YA STAR F TE RL CUR S I T O R ST ANE LA NE TY St Bride’s DORSET RISE IT E ST VIC TOR IA E N MBA T KMEN Temple Pier WATERLOO BRIDGE River Thames © Crown copyright Fleet Street In 1500. Nonetheless. Since the 1980s. all the major national and provincial dailies had their offices and printing presses in the Fleet Street district. CI in-the-West 2 F LEET S TR E E T Prince Henry’s Room 3 KE N ST FETTER CARE ST RE Y ST ET RD BE LL YA HAR DIN G ST HAR DIN G S LIT.114 EATING & DRINKING Blackfriar Cittie of Yorke Old Cheshire Cheese Yokoso Sushi ST WELL BOS 4 1 2 3 RED WEL L R OA D CL E RK EN LA NE PO RT PO OL OS NO RT HI R EB NG TO N ST JOHN ST ER Y AV E 0 100 yds ' S A Y G R GT JAMES ST N Holborn PLACES T H E O ' S L D B A P R IN C A D R O JOCK EY'S FIELD Gray’s Inn Gardens Gray’s Inn FIELD COURT ST ETON BEDF ORD N I N CLERKEN W ELL BA LD W RD EN IN ’S GA S KE ST DRA TURLIT. thanks to the view across to Ludgate Hill and beyond to St Paul’s Cathedral. Contents Places CA RP EN TEMPLE CA RM EL T E M PL TE M PL E Somerset House TE R ST King’s College Temple Church TU DO R ST RE ET E E PL AC Inner Middle Temple Temple Hall VI C TO RI A EM B A N KMENT Blackfriars Millennium Pier TALLIS ST EL Y PL AC E SH OE L A N E ST SOU H AT T O N G A R D E N ROW RED LION SQUARE EA G LE GRAY’S INN SQUARE A D R O L E AT H E R L A N E LION TH A M P T O N ROW S ST RE ET SANDLAND ST PRO CT ER STREET SOUTH SQUARE ST CH AN K CE RY I LA N G S W A Y KE A N ST NE REE E ST T FOR RD NE CERY LA ARUN T D EL S D LANE ST 4 . moved the Caxton presses from Westminster to Fleet Street. Britain’s first daily newspapers were published here. Fleet Street still offers one of the grandest approaches to the City. all but a handful of the press headquarters that once dominated this part of town have relocated to the Docklands and elsewhere. one Wynkyn de Worde. who comprised the largest literate group in the city. and by the nineteenth century.
dircon . Free. circulated for a particular set of readers only”. who was born in nearby Salisbury Court and baptized at St Bride’s. May–Sept Mon–Sat 11am–5. Dr Johnson’s House is the only authentic seventeenthcentury building on Gough Square.stbrides.lincolnsinn .com. now contains material relating to the diarist Samuel Pepys (1633–1703). Oliver Cromwell and Margaret Thatcher. in which Johnson and his six helpers put the tome together. including one of Johnson’s black servant Francis Barber. Oct–April Mon–Sat 11am–5pm. Mon–Sat 11am–2pm. with its distinctive timber-framed bay windows. Even if you’ve no interest in Pepys. is now lined with explanatory panels on lexicography. a late Contents Places . Free.drjh.The crypt contains a little museum of Fleet Street history. head for the so-called “journalists’ and printers’ cathedral”.co.The grey-panelled rooms of the house are peppered with period furniture and lined with portraits and etchings.000 entries for the first dictionary of the English language. Mon–Fri 9am–6pm. Lincoln’s Inn Lincoln’s Inn Fields/Chancery Lane t 020/7405 1393.30pm. which later became The appearances. on the first floor. To get a sense of old-style Fleet Street. Free.org. having miraculously escaped the ravages of the Blitz. adjacent to which is the early seventeenthcentury chapel (Mon–Fri noon–2pm). The main entrance is the diamond-patterned. writer and lexicographer lived from 1747 to 1759 whilst compiling the 41. and a lot of original stained glass. the wooden-panelled room itself is worth a look – it contains one of the finest Jacobean plasterwork ceilings in London. . the church of St Bride’s. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm. It was here the great savant. The first floor of this fine Jacobean house. ST BRIDE’S SPIRE Lincoln’s Inn was the first – and in many ways is the prettiest – of the Inns of Court. . redbrick Tudor gateway on Chancery Lane. with information on the Daily Courant and the Universal Daily Register.uk/phr. Despite St Bride’s Fleet St w www.uk.115 Prince Henry’s Room 17 Fleet St w www. PLACES Holborn Dr Johnson’s House 17 Gough Square w www. famous alumni include Thomas More. which boasts Christopher Wren’s tallest and most exquisite spire (said to be the inspiration for the tiered wedding cake). w www.gov. while the open-plan attic. with its unusual fan-vaulted open undercroft and. Times and which then claimed to be “the faithful recorder of every species of intelligence .uk.Two firstedition copies of the great Dictionary are on display.cityoflondon . £4.
Contents Places . Cittie of Yorke 22 High Holborn. utterly original Sir John Soane’s Museum Lincoln’s Inn Fields w www. it’s certainly not a museum for the squeamish. dishes are mostly under £3 and set meals under £10. Pubs and bars Blackfriar 174 Queen Victoria St. Closed Sat & Sun. linenfold panelling and an elaborate. Arranged much as it was in his lifetime. O’Brien (1761–83).ac. but also as a place to stash his large assortment of art and antiquities. opened up as a museum. as well as the alabaster sarcophagus of Seti I. Sir John Soane (1753–1837) was an avid collector who designed this house not only as a home and office. One of London’s most venerable pubs. books and exquisitely detailed architectural models in cork and wood. Since most of the exhibits are jars of pickled skeletons and body pieces. and the Sicilian midget Caroline Crachami (1815–24).soane.Also on view are the skeletons of the Irish giant. hit by a Zeppelin in World War I and much restored since. cheap Sam Smith’s beer and a grand quasi-medieval wine hall. with a vaulted cellar bar. it’s now one of London’s best-kept secrets. with surprises in every alcove. who was seven feet ten inches tall. Closed Sat & Sun.uk. Free. chief architect of the Bank of England. candle-lit first Tues of the month 6–9pm. Popular with tourists. treasurehunt atmosphere. whose cosy cubicles were once the preserve of lawyers and their clients. with Art Nouveau marble friezes of boozy monks and a wonderful highly decorated alcove. hour-long guided tour (£3) takes you round the museum and the enormous research library next door. Tues–Sat 10am–5pm. the Hunterian Museum first opened in 1813. Cafés Yokoso Sushi 40 Whitefriars St. Closed Sun eve. all dating from 1905.30pm every Saturday. a fascinating. Mon–Fri 10am–5pm.rcseng.The star exhibits Old Cheshire Cheese Wine Office Court. wood panelling. where Dickens set the case Jarndyce versus Jarndyce in Bleak House. was repaired following damage during the Blitz. the ingeniously planned house has an informal. who was just one foot ten and a half inches when she died at the age of 9. darkpanelled bars. 145 Fleet St. which contains architectural drawings. features a fine timber roof. with real fires and several snug. The unique specimen collection of the surgeon-scientist John Hunter (1728–93). early Jacobean screen. Lincoln’s Inn Fields w www. Holborn PLACES Hunterian Museum Royal College of Surgeons. Gorgeous.116 Gothic nave. Top-notch sushi place serving really fresh fish at very affordable prices. The Inn’s fifteenth-century Old Hall (open by appointment). At 2. are Hogarth’s satirical Election series and his merciless morality tale The Rake’s Progress. A famous seventeenth- century watering hole. The pub. Free. but by no means exclusively so.org. and is currently in the process of being totally rebuilt.
where folk used to come to watch public hangings.30am–5pm.117 Clerkenwell A typical London mix of Georgian and Victorian townhouses. and there is no cloakroom. but note that bags. but the area’s main highlight is its abundance of trendy restaurants. Mon–Fri 10. Sun 8. mid-Nov to mid-Feb closes 4pm Mon–Fri.greatstbarts. The Central Criminal Court. a wooden statue of St Bartholomew stands holding the knife with which he was flayed. Free. holding her sword and scales. Begun in 1123. where stout Norman pillars separate the main body of the church from Contents Places . Clerkenwell has been transformed over the last decade or so. this formerly workaday district – famous for lockmaking. there’s only a smattering of minor sights here. immediately to the right as you enter the church. you can watch the proceedings from the visitors’ gallery.The current.The Old Bailey is now the venue for all the country’s most serious criminal court cases. including portions of the transepts and.org. Well off the conventional tourist trail. St Bartholomew-the-Great Cloth Fair w www. unusually depicted without blindfold. the chancel. most impressively. Free. residential enclave for portfolio-carrying designers and media types. PLACES Clerkenwell Old Bailey Newgate St w www. was built on the site of the notoriously harsh Newgate Prison. Sat 10.30am–1pm & 2.30am–1pm & 2–4pm. bars and clubs. mobiles. Its halftimbered Tudor gatehouse on Little Britain Street incorporates a thirteenthcentury arch that once formed the entrance to the nave. surmounted by a gilded statue of Justice. printing and jewellery – is now a fashionable. rather pompous Edwardian building is distinguished by its green dome. JUSTICE ATOP THE OLD BAILEY St Bartholomew-the-Great is London’s oldest and most exquisite parish church. loft conversions and art studios. Tues–Fri 8. On the edge of London’s financial sector.cjsonline. cameras.30pm.30–8pm. housing estates. personal stereos and food and drink are not allowed in.The rest is a confusion of elements. clockmaking. One side of the medieval cloisters survives to the south.30am–1.com. more popularly known as the Old Bailey. above.
Smithfield is dominated by its meat market. William Wallace. For more than three centuries it was a popular venue for public executions: the Scottish hero. T CY S FR IE N DS T ET N D WALK RDESS WK SHEPHE OR W IN DS . which shelters under a fifteenthcentury canopy north of the main altar. housed in a colourful and ornate Victorian market hall on Charterhouse Street. LA N E H O L B O R N RI Museum of London E ST MO CHANCERY LANE E US IE HO HF ER IT RT SM A ST CH E W Smithfield Market L D L I T St Bartholomewthe-Great IN TA FOR OR L LO St Giles A NE G REVI LL E ST 9 E T R E S T BARBICAN N LA N G IR FA TH CLO E H E C B E MILTO N ST BARBICAN SILK ST ROP EMA MOORG LONDON WALL OD R L A NE SH O E N FE W CH AN R N St Sepulchre St Bartholomew’s Hospital V City Thameslink I A D U C HO LBO TTE T 10 OL D BA ILE Y NE GRE S NE WG HA Old Bailey AT E STR EET Goldsmiths’ Hall MS T 0 WO St Botolph ST Guildhall 200 yds ST PAUL’S St Paul’s Cathedral © Crown copyright 9 3 St John 8 Viaduct Tavern 10 EATING & DRINKING Café Kick 1 Clark & Sons 2 Cicada 4 Deli Bar 7 Feast 5 Fox & Anchor 6 Lifthouse Moro the ambulatory. and the Bishop of Rochester’s cook was boiled alive in 1531.118 OR H O LF ST NE ST D CHA EET STR WAK OWEN ST A HALL STREET D REET BER ST MICAW ET NNIA ALK O S T O V JASPER E T DEN OW ARLINGTON WAY ER GT P IDE A PL. RE ET R ROW O WH A D ITE GO E N L D G O CR SW OSS EL L STREET RO AD HN ST R E E T JO ST ANE ’S L OHN ST J N E L A N N ST N TO IT BR T LS IL N M D O RN N G HILL TU R I N R RO FF SA F A A T E A L D E R S G LEA THE O A TON HAT NE R LA D CE DEN GAR TL E B Moorgate ST R E E T A D R O RY LAN E . disembowelled and beheaded here in 1305. if you want to see it in action.There are various pre-Fire monuments to admire. ST EET STR BATH H ET IRON N MON T R E E S T A D R O GER S T R ROW MALLOW STREET ON W E BUN OO ST DB E GE RID H IL L Old Street NI N T X PL . court jester to Henry I.The compensation for getting up at this ungodly hour are the early Contents Places FINSBURY CR O S S ST 8 7 6 CHARTERHOUSE SQUARE E T R E S T CHISWELL ST VE Y NI LE STREET BRITA NNIA S T R E E T S T G AMW O L N T R A C E UX L E L S W ELL WK. Holt & Co. TE RR MYDDELTON SQUARE RIV ER ST ST C R MO N ELA TR DS EET EE Clerkenwell PLACES M R ST RY G E WILMINGTON SQUARE AR R YA DL EY ST ST WICK HARD M V Y E DD N O LT U N ST SPEN MO CER D IN G LE Y RA REE T STR EET ROA D ST LLOYD SQUARE T YD S LLO NE I T Sadler’s Wells FI N SBURY J O E RE ST W RA OR R O A D CAY T O NS T T NORTHAMPTON SQUARE R V E L E E E T R E S T LESS PEER B A LD W I N S T 1 O ET EX G M IN CY R UT H T RU FA R M 3 SS ec one AR T KE 2 SK INN ER S D O NT ROS EBE RY Holy Inflate Redeemer EEN G LIN W E BO LAN GR CLERKEN W E LL ST RE ET L AY S TA St James LITTLE Marx WA R N E ITALY RS T ST Memorial RAY Library St Peter EY R E S T H ILL A D Magma R POT P ST L E N W E L LL E R K C L WA TO N LA OOL NE LL St John’s A D Gate R O BARTHOLOMEW SQUARE T EET EL L S STR M IT C H T KS T E T NS WIC T E PTO BAS T COM EE T R TR S T E S EET TS GE D STR RET L R GAR O NE ST AN T T S B Y E RE ON UR ST SB 4 AT S U T T LE T IC ST AY B AL GRE R IN Frosts of FFE 5 CLERKENWELL DU Clerkenwell GREEN AGD PER R L ST C IV A EET SEW D AR ST T OR S RAND A REET OLD STR T REE PE A R TR EE FEATHERST Bunhil Fields A PLE AS MT Charterhouse E FA N N STR ET HAT NS S GD WIN BALD FARRINGDON COWCROSS S T R.These days. but the local speciality was burnings. get here early – the activity starts around 4am and is all over by 9am or 10am. when hundreds of Protestants were burned at the stake for their beliefs. Smithfield Blood and guts were regularly spilled at Smithfield long before today’s meat market was legally sanctioned here in the seventeenth century. the most prominent being the tomb of Rahere. was hanged. which reached a peak in the midsixteenth century during the reign of “Bloody” Mary.
w www. and the poky little back room where Lenin worked is Contents Places . lectures. w www.barbican. a monumental concrete ghetto built over the heavily bombed Cripplegate area.The permanent exhibition provides an educational trot through London’s past from prehistory to the present day. Mon. Saxon and Elizabethan remains have been discovered during the City’s various rebuildings. which is traffic-free.119 licensing laws. lies in the excellent temporary exhibitions. the sarcophagus. Mon–Sat 10am–5.The library was founded in 1933 in response to the book burnings taking place in Nazi Germany.50pm. though. very few of its ancient structures are still standing. Despite London’s long pedigree.The real strength of the museum. Sun noon–5. London’s supposed answer to Paris’s Pompidou Centre which was formally opened in 1982. However. Displays are imaginatively set out. Tues & Thurs 1–6pm. which mean you can get a hearty breakfast and an early morning pint from the local pubs. serves as home to the London Symphony Orchestra and the capital’s chapter of the Royal Shakespeare Company. and the Lord Mayor’s heavily gilded coach (still used for state occasions). Barbican t 020/7600 3699.The zone’s solitary prewar building is the heavily restored sixteenthcentury church of St Giles Cripplegate (Mon–Fri 11am–4pm).museumoflondon. and stages regular free gigs in the foyer area.org. Specific exhibits to look out for include the Bucklersbury Roman mosaic.org.uk) on Silk Street. hence the large number of school groups who pass through.50pm. walks and videos it organizes throughout the year.uk. Housed in a ST BARTHOLOMEW GATEHOUSE former Welsh Charity School. Sat 10am–1pm. the Marx Memorial Library was where Lenin edited seventeen editions of the Bolshevik paper Iskra in 1902–03.marxlibrary. Free.net. Wed 1–8pm. numerous Roman. though only the new prehistory gallery has much in the way of handson stuff. Free.The complex. coffin and Barbican The City’s only large residential complex is the Barbican. and many of these finds are now displayed at the Museum of London. PLACES Clerkenwell Museum of London London Wall. situated across from the infamously user-repellent Barbican Arts Centre (t 020/7638 8891. skeleton of a wealthy Roman woman found in Spitalfields. Marx Memorial Library 37a Clerkenwell Green w www.
The only striking building is the Roman Catholic church of the Holy Redeemer. R. Stunning Doorstop focaccia sandwiches. w www.feastwraps. but this genuine pie-and-mash shop – the most central one in the capital – is still going strong. Part few clock and watch places left in an area once famous for them: choose from antique bar. Feast 86 St John St w www. grandfather clocks to secondhand wristwatches. but to consult the unrivalled collection of books and pamphlets on the labour movement you need to become a library member.uk. and get a bespoke ring.inflate.com. really) and piggy banks to an entire office. w www. w www. Closed Sat & Sun.You’re free to view the Lenin Room. and the workerist Hastings Mural from 1935. designer-ish Clerkenwell café.econe.rholt. Frosts of Clerkenwell 60–62 Clerkenwell Rd t 020/7253 0315. but the rest of the street has been colonized by modish new shops.exmouth-market. w www.cicada. necklace or pendant made up. where there’s an original copy of Iskra.120 maintained as it was then. takeaway deli downstairs. Closed Sun. Inflate 28 Exmouth Market t 020/7713 9096. Closed Sun. which boasts an unusual Italianate campanile. Closed Sun.The old market proper has been reduced to a raggle-taggle of tatty stalls. Holt & Co 98 Hatton Garden t 020/7405 5286.uk.co. Choose your stone from the thousands in stock. Delicious contemporary jewellery by a whole host of top designers: everything from simple perspex necklaces to very expensive diamond rings. Clerkenwell PLACES Temple for all things plastic and inflatable. Cicada offers Contents Places . One of the Restaurants Cicada 132 St John St t 020/7608 1550. Closed Sat & Sun. Closed Sat & Sun. but it’s otherwise lightly decorated for a Catholic church. Exmouth Market is at the epicentre of newly fashionable Clerkenwell.co. Exmouth Market w www.uk. a great salad bar and a relaxed vibe are the main draws of this two-tier place: café/bar upstairs.uk. the groin-vaulted interior is lined with big composite pillars. tortilla-wrapped sandwiches made to order. part restaurant. Shops ec one 41 Exmouth Market t 020/7713 6185. take away or eat in at this small.co. from postcards (yes. Exmouth Market has changed beyond recognition. and a large baldachin occupies centre stage. Closed Sat & Sun. Deli Bar 117 Charterhouse St. as a kind of shrine – even the original lino survives.nu.com. w www.frostsofclerkenwell . bars and restaurants (plus the inevitable Starbucks).co. Cafés Clark & Sons 46 Exmouth Market.
121 PLACES Clerkenwell VIADUCT TAVERN BAR an unusual Thai-based menu that ranges from fishy tom yum to ginger noodles or sushi. The cooking is of a very high standard. Closed Sat lunch & Sun. Pubs and bars Café Kick 43 Exmouth Market w www.co. Minimalist former smokehouse that’s now a decidedly old-fashioned English restaurant specializing in offal.co.uk.The walls are beautifully decorated with oils of faded ladies representing Commerce.co. Moro 34–36 Exmouth Market t 020/7833 8336. rather stark place serving food from Spain. w www. with three busy table-football games to complete the retro theme. Market pub that’s famous for its early opening hours and huge breakfasts (served 7–10am). Agriculture and the Arts. Glorious Victorian gin palace. fashionable Exmouth Market. Closed Sat & Sun. Closed Sat lunch & Sun. much of it cooked in a woodfired oven. Booking essential. Three-floored New York St John 26 St John St t 020/7251 0848. Handsome Smithfield Modern.uk. built in 1869 opposite what was then Newgate Prison and is now the Old Bailey. Lifthouse 85 Charterhouse St w www. Fox & Anchor 115 Charterhouse St. style complex with a restaurant. cocktail bar and club space that gets especially lively on Friday and Saturday nights.lifthouse .stjohnrestaurant. Stylish take on a smoky French-style café/bar in the heart of Contents Places .uk.cafekick. Portugal and North Africa. Viaduct Tavern 126 Newgate St.
ITH E STEW LA NE KE NN W HA RFET T LA UPPE QU EE NH PL . ANGE G LANE T O St Stephen St Mary VIC S T Aldermary U E E N Walbrook Q St Nicholas Cole Abbey ET CAN STREE T S House S T BURY RIA 8 MA HOU NSION SE P L. With the notable exception of St Paul’s Cathedral and Wren’s numerous smaller churches. GODL IMAN ST NON ADDLE HILL . TRUMP ST Guildhall Art Gallery Y L O T HB U R Y GE R n St Paul's Cathedral IL L KING APS IR ONMON PATERNOSTER ROW CHE NEW RU OLD J EWR CO L GRE SHA Clockmakers’ S T Museum WO OD S T RE ET Guildhall E M A N S T R EE T PRI NCE BASINGHALL AV. postwar reconstruction and the office-building frenzy of the 1980s.122 The City The City PLACES The City is where London began. However. The E L D CL OT H FA St Bartholomewthe-Great ALDER St Giles FOR E LA NE ST A LPHA GE’S GARD EN M RI TA I IR C typo nt SM W ITH EST FIE LD STR EET EET M GUE TA ON ST L O N D O N ET LE S TRE W A L L OD St Botolph E D WA R D S T NOB St Bartholomew’s Hospital NEW WA R W I C K L A N E MA R I A L ALDER M Postman’s Park KING M G AT E ST REE REE T T MI L A. UPPER N WH I T E L I O HIL T H A M ES ST DOWG ATE H ILL St Benet L LA H Q U EE N QUE EN V IC T O RI A ST I QUEEN VICTOR BE M ILL NN St Mary ON MANSION Abchurch HOUSE ST St Michael TH St James Paternoster CANNON STR E E T Garlickhythe SKINNER’S LANE L . S SIA IDE St Maryle-Bow 5 ST Bank of England QU EE N ST LUD GATE H BOW LA N E P O U LT BU CK LE R LANE ST PA U L’S CHURCH YAR D SH 10 CARTER i WAT LI N B R EA D RY BANK Mansion M O O R G A T E T SS WO BU RY AN w KNIGHT DIS TAFF LANE GARDNE RS LA. EET ALL H ALLO WS LA . R TH AME COLL EG E ST N ST S ST R LA. COUS IN RSID E W ALK QUE E RIVE Cannon St Station BUS H AN SU FFO E LK LA. J U B I L EE WA L K W A Y BANKS S OU THW ARK River Tha me s B R ID IDE N Tate Modern SOUTHWARK Contents Places SWA LANE N GE MILLENNIUM BRIDGE ANGEL PASS. you’ll find few visible leftovers of London’s early days. and its boundaries today are only slightly larger than those in Roman and medieval times. ST PAUL'S PATERNOSTER SQUARE LK ST St Vedast LANE St Lawrence Jewry ST R. what you see now is mostly the product of the Victorian construction boom. LAUR POUN ENCE TNEY LA. R A ST E ST RE E T RIDER ST PETER ’ S H ILL CA WALB ROOK ST S WIT HIN LAN ’S E N Museum of London MOORGATE LI T T LE S G AT E B RI TA IN STR E E T F O ST E R L ANE B A S IN GHA ST MARTIN’S LE-GR A N D LL S T GUTTER CH A. since four-fifths of it burned down in the Great Fire of 1666.
B IL L I T E R ST IES REET VINE ST LLO YD G ’S AV EN Fenchurch St Station NEW T ON S LOND Contents WIL UE AC H E A S TC E A P St Margaret Pattens GRE TT CRU TC HE D C OO CR OS SW AL L AMERICA LIAM ST RE ET SQUARE ST HART P E RS St Olave ET PEP YS ST RE S E ETHING LA N E TO ’ RO W OW ER TOWER HILL A ST RE ET LO W ER St Magnus the Martyr TH A M St Dunstanin-the-East ET ES ST RE BY W D AR STREET TRINITY SQUARE L HIL TOWER All Hallows ES ST The Tower of London 0 200 yds © Crown copyright Places . £6. It’s best to try and visit during the week.uk. Mon–Sat 8. HA RR 3 THROGMORT OM AX O B E BU UR Stock Exchange EAD N LE EED ST B I RY CR EE CH ST Royal Exchange THR Commercial Union Building St Andrew 6 Undershaft LEADENHALL ST R 4 MI CH LA N ST G THRO S MOR MA TON S T O H LD RY St Helen M AR E Swiss Re KS Bevis Marks DU K E’ S PL AC E TR ES T MITRE SQUARE GR P ALDGATE St Botolph MI LO E LAN MB BIRCH IN St Mary 9 Woolnoth St Michael AR DS K IN AR LA. but only a few thousand actually live here.123 majority of Londoners lived and worked in or around the City up until the eighteenth century – nowadays. over a million commuters spend the best part of Monday to Friday here. restaurants and even some tube stations and tourist sights close down at the weekend. PLACES The City St Paul’s Cathedral Ludgate Hill w www. M I N C ING LAN E K L ANE FENCH U H RC FR ST O LA IA RS E EN CL EC MAR TIN LA . since many pubs. LL ILE G S St Ethelburga BE VI S ST D CU TL ER WIN GREAT CHES TER S OW ST RTH WO NT WE BB ST E . GR ROOD ST M ARY AT H I L L PUDD ING LA IL LI A M T HU ST NE R ST LOVA T LA. however. MONUMENT St MaryMON Uat-Hill ME N The T S Monument TR T EE MAR K IN G W TO TH EATING & DRINKING 1 Lombard St 8 Jamaica Wine House 9 Bevis Marks 4 KIO 3 Counting House 7 Lamb 11 De Gustibus 10 The Place Below 5 George 2 Prism 6 Hamilton Hall 1 E AM WE LOW ER RH IL LO N D ON BR ID G UE W ME LO E HO N RT LA BA L E) NOR Lloyd's Building 11 FENCH TR EET Leadenhall ET TRE Market LIME S U R C H A V.30am–5pm.stpauls. L C O R N H I L 7 EET CH UR CH GS F E N ILDIN BU St Katharine Cree JEW RY ST AV E Nat West Tower A. St Paul’s BROADGATE CIRCLE remains a dominating presence in the City despite the encroaching tower blocks. LES EX ST (PE TT T HO IC UN ST T OA SD W IT CH HIT EK ST ENN ET T AN NE S LA CH L AN CH S T TS HUR EM LA.co. Topped by an enormous leadcovered dome that’s second in p g Institute BL OM FIE LD ST RE E FINSBURY CIRCUS LOND C O P THA L L A V E N HUR ABC LIVERPOOL ST LIV T Liverpool St Station OOL ST S P I TA L F I E L D S BEL ERP 1 RE 2 ET NE LL MIDD W AN R O AD ST RE ET ON W ALL O N AV ENUE All Hallows WORMW OOD S T STRE ET CO St Botolph E T A CAM PL DEVONSHIRE SQ. Designed by Christopher Wren and completed in 1711.
Westminster Abbey. both occupying centre stage and both with more fanciful monuments upstairs. where the late Victorian mosaics of birds. reputedly the largest in Europe. though. its showpiece west facade is particularly magnificent.The intricately carved oak and limewood choir stalls. GUILDHALL Contents Places . Although the nave is crammed full of overblown monuments to military types.15pm. adorned (against Wren’s wishes) by trompe l’oeil frescoes. Beginning in the south aisle. May–Sept daily 10am–5pm. so called because of its acoustic properties – words whispered to the wall on one side are distinctly audible over one hundred feet away on the other. and on Sundays at 10am.30am and 3. if only to hear the ethereal choir. however. The best place to appreciate the building’s glory is from beneath the dome. burials in St Paul’s are confined to the crypt. are the work of Wren’s master carver. It’s well worth attending one of the cathedral’s services. the best views are from the tiny Golden Gallery. which still uses it for many formal civic occasions. and is most impressive at night when bathed in sea-green arc lights. including Christopher Wren himself. The City PLACES Guildhall Aldermanbury Street w www . Oct–April Mon–Sat 10am–5pm. animals and greenery are particularly spectacular. however. and the imposing organ case.cityoflondon. a burial place for captains rather than kings. who perform during most evensongs (Mon–Sat 5pm). The whitewashed walls and bright lighting. are those of Nelson and Wellington. It remains the headquarters of the Corporation of London. However compared to its great rival. fish. Architecturally. 11. a series of stairs lead to the dome’s three galleries. but Artists’ Corner here does boast as many painters and architects as Westminster Abbey has poets.uk. it’s not MAGOG STATUE.gov. the first of which is the internal Whispering Gallery.124 size only to St Peter’s in Rome. Grinling Gibbons. Situated at the geographical centre of the City. make this one of London’s least atmospheric mausoleums. Free.The star tombs. the City’s governing body. though you often can’t hear much above the hubbub. Guildhall has been the area’s administrative seat for over eight hundred years. below the golden ball and cross which top the cathedral. Of the two exterior galleries.The most richly decorated section of the cathedral is the chancel. St Paul’s is a soulless but perfectly calculated architectural set piece.
commissioned by the Corporation. the Great Hall. having been badly damaged in both the Great Fire and the Blitz. and exquisite dark-wood furnishings by Grinling Gibbons.co. you can view a reconstruction of Soane’s Bank Stock Office. Contents Places .30pm. The City is crowded with churches – well over forty at the last count. the majority built or rebuilt by Wren after the Great Fire. as is the Clockmakers’ Museum (Mon–Fri 9. Mon–Fri 10am–5pm. on Walbrook.5-acre island site. Established in 1694 by William III to raise funds for the war against France.45am–5pm) is a typically idiosyncratic creation of Nicholas Hawksmoor. a collection of over six hundred timepieces.cityoflondonchurches. in the museum. In the basement. is worth a brief look. outer curtain wall. which contains one or two exceptional works. which has its entrance on Bartholomew Lane. while the superlative lime-wood reredos is again by Gibbons. such as Rossetti’s La Ghirlandata and Holman Hunt’s The Eve of St Agnes. Also worth a visit is the purpose-built Guildhall Art Gallery (Mon–Sat 10am–5pm.com.uk. is dominated by an unusual and vast dome fresco. £2. On King William Street. Free. one of Wren’s pupils. and scarred by the addition of a grotesque 1970s concrete cloister and wing.The permanent exhibition here includes a model of Soane’s bank and a Victorian-style diorama of the night in 1780 when the bank was attacked by rioters. you can view the remains of a Roman amphitheatre. Bank of England Threadneedle St w www . PLACES The City City churches w www.Wren’s most spectacular church after St Paul’s. which was discovered during the gallery’s construction. basically a postwar reconstruction of the fifteenthcentury original. plus a massive painting depicting the 1782 Siege of Gibraltar. All that remains of the original building.bankofengland. However. the Bank of England stores the gold reserves of seventy or so central banks from around the world in its vaults.50). on Abchurch Lane.The interior of Wren’s St Mary Abchurch (Mon–Thurs 10am–2pm). free). with its characteristic domed skylight. with sixteen Corinthian columns arranged in clusters around a central coffered dome.30am–4. St Mary Woolnoth (Mon–Fri 7.Those particularly worth seeking out include St Stephen Walbrook (Mon–Thurs 10am–4pm. including one of the clocks that won John Harrison the Longitude prize. Sun noon–4pm. featuring an ingenious lantern lit by semicircular clerestory windows. and a striking altar canopy held up by barley-sugar columns. on which John Soane spent the best part of his career (from 1788 onwards). painted by a local parishioner and lit by oval lunettes. but there are specimens of every note issued by the Royal Mint over the centuries. which wraps itself round the 3. dating from around 120 AD. Sadly most of the gold bars are fakes. Nonetheless.125 quite the beauty it once was. is the windowless. Fri 10am–3pm).
It’s the country’s oldest surviving synagogue. east of Monument. now in very bad shape. Award- LLOYD’S BUILDING ORIGINAL PORTICO winning bakery that constructs a wide variety of sandwiches. A startling array of glass and blue steel pipes – a vertical version of Rogers’ own Pompidou Centre – this is easily the most popular of the modern City buildings. £1. the traders cater mostly for the lunchtime City crowd. champagne and caviar. graceful Victorian cast-ironwork of Leadenhall Market date from 1881. Daily 10am–6pm. Closed Sat & Sun. The picturesque cobbles and richly painted. Mon–Fri 11am–2pm. to the north on St Mary Axe. The City PLACES Monument Monument St. it stands 202 feet high. Hidden The Monument was designed by Wren to commemorate the Great Fire of 1666.uk. depicts Charles II and the Duke of York in Roman garb conducting the emergency relief operation. £2.The 311 steps to the viewing gallery once guaranteed an incredible view. Leadenhall Market Leadenhall St. at least with the general public. but the magnificent array of chandeliers ensure that it’s a popular venue for candlelit Jewish weddings.15am. a modern red-brick office block.co. the Bevis Marks Synagogue was built in 1701 by Sephardic Jews who had fled the Inquisition in Spain and Portugal. if it were laid out flat it would touch the bakery where the Fire started. Cafés De Gustibus 53–55 Carter Lane w www. completed in 1984. on Lime Street. bruschetta. Sun 11. stands Richard Rogers’ glitzy Lloyd’s Building. Inside. Guided tours Mon–Wed & Fri noon. fine wines.50.The bas-relief on the base. croque monsieur and quiche to eat in (perched on stools) or take away. The Sephardic community has now dispersed across London and the congregation has dwindled. A plain Doric column crowned with spiky gilded flames. and the roomy. Its closest rival.degustibus . is Norman Foster’s giant new 590ft-tall building for Swiss Re. rich interior gives an idea of just how wealthy the worshippers were at the time. making it the tallest isolated stone column in the world.126 Lloyd’s Building and Swiss Re away in a little courtyard behind East of Bank. their barrows laden with exotic seafood and game. known to Londoners as the “erotic gherkin”. Contents Places . and beyond Bishopsgate. Bevis Marks Synagogue Bevis Marks. nowadays it is somewhat dwarfed by the buildings around it. Note that neither building is open to the public.
Closed Sat & Sun.bevismarkstherestaurant.harveynichols. Closed Sat & Sun. chandeliers and a central oval bar. and a kaiten (conveyor-belt) dining area downstairs.com. a glass dome. this is a classy. Closed Sat & Sun. Set in a former VIEWING PLATFORM.com. account restaurant in another old banking hall. Restaurants 1 Lombard Street 1 Lombard St t 020/7929 6611.com. it’s wall-to-wall suits. Super- Successful bank conversion. Jamaica Wine House St Michael’s Alley. Liverpool St. with fantastic high ceilings. A very slick expense- Cavernous former hotel ballroom. Hamilton Hall Liverpool Street Station. Pubs and bars The Counting House 50 Cornhill. Prism 147 Leadenhall St t 020/7256 3888. Cheapside w www.theplacebelow. this is really just a pub.co. Bevis Marks Bevis Marks t 020/7283 2220. pricey City brasserie with a buzzy circular bar under a suitably imposing glass dome. Sat & Sun. Despite the name. smart restaurant in the glassed-over courtyard outside Bevis Marks Synagogue. serving expensive. inexpensive sushi outlet. Closed Sat & Sun. with a busy takeaway section upstairs.127 K10 20 Copthall Ave. Closed Fri eve. w www. Naturally enough.1lombardstreet. the wonderful Norman crypt makes for a very pleasant place in which to dine. banking hall.uk. divided into four large “snugs” by the original high wooden-panelled partitions. adorned with gilded nudes and chandeliers and packed-out with City commuters tanking up before the train home. MONUMENT favourites with modernist influences. w www. This café serving imaginative vegetarian dishes is something of a find in the midst of the City. Closed Sat & Sun. Straightforward – and expensive – Michelin-starred French fare. with a fashionably long bar. Closed Sat & Sun. Added to that. PLACES The City The Place Below St Mary-le-Bow. Remarkably good. suave service and a menu comprised of well-judged English An old City institution tucked away down a narrow alleyway. given the location. modern kosher dishes as well as traditional Jewish fare. Contents Places . w www.
wesleyschapel . peppered with contemporary art galleries and a whole host of very cool bars and clubs. Despite the lack of aesthetic charm.The interior is uncharacteristically ornate. Predictably enough. and heralded the coming of age of the faith founded by John Wesley (1703–91). supercool bars and artists’ studios arranged around a leafy.Tracey Emin and various other Turner Prize artists. formal square. On display inside are his death bed and an early shocktherapy machine he was particularly keen on. striptease pubs and roaring traffic. a strange and not altogether happy mixture of light industrial units. most prominently White Cube (Tues–Sat 10am–6pm. But over the last ten years. the area has been colonized by artists. partly due to the glass roof that tops the building. and who eventually left him.com) at no.128 Hoxton and Spitalfields Hoxton and Spitalfields PLACES Until recently. the square is now an undisputedly fashionable place to live and work. Hoxton Square The geographical focus of Hoxton’s so-hip-it-hurts metamorphosis is Hoxton Square. Mon–Sat 10am–4pm.Wesley himself spent his last two years in Wesley’s House. Contents Places . once the first port of call for thousands of immigrants over the centuries. several leading West End art galleries have opened up premises hereabouts. the Museum of Methodism in the basement has only a passing reference to the insanely jealous 40-year-old widow Wesley married. HOXTON SQUARE place of pilgrimage for the world’s Methodists. with powder-pink columns of French jasper and a superb. Wesley’s Chapel & Museum 49 City Rd w www. to the south. designers and architects and transformed itself into the city’s most vibrant artistic enclave. a delightful Georgian place to the right of the main gates. Adam-style gilded plasterwork ceiling. w www. Spitalfields. A WHITE CUBE GALLERY. which has been likened to a miniature Tate Modern.uk.whitecube. Hoxton was an unpleasant amalgam of wholesale clothing and shoe shops. and now best known for its Sunday markets and its cheap Bangladeshi curry houses.Wesley’s Chapel was built in 1777. lies at the heart of the old East End. 48. Free.org. and partly because it touts the likes of Damien Hirst.
ARNOLD CIRCUS C U RTA I N K BRIC ST MAT D CITY TA B E FINSBURY PAVEME NT LANE MOOR N FI E R IVI N G T O N OA CH ILT ON D Y ST B O U N D AR LA N E LD S THEW CLU ROA D T B RO W CE ST CHAN ’S ROW BA CO N ST ST B R I C K C H ES HI R E S T PE DL EY ST RE ET C U R TA RED CLIFT ON ST HO SHO FOLGATE N S TREET STR OL EMA WI KER LSO ROP ST PP SUN STEWARD ST ST NORTON C HI S W E L L FINSBURY SQUARE P I ND EARL D STREET AR S T PRIM R OS E ST FOLGATE ST Old 10 Truman Brewery 11 EET WOO DSEER SPITAL ST ST RE MOORFIE LDS AT ST E LD RG EET E M AN ST MOO ON AV . Bunhill Fields was the main burial ground for Dissenters or Nonconformists (practising Christians who were not members of the Church of England) until 1852.uk. ELD ON ST BROADGATE CIRCLE Liverpool St ARTILLERY Station LIVERPOOL ST MID BRUSH Christ Church TOYNBEE S T LA . G WA BL LOND C OPTHA L L A V .gov. CORONET 2 N S WA FT W TO N RO W EL LI NG ST GO S SE TT T GR NE O VE T U R IN 3 BOOT ST OL D T STREE St Leonard AUSTI N S D Tatty T IA R White Cube Devine GIN Gallery VIR T S TR EE CALVER CHARLOTTE RD ST ROA TY ST T AV. LO S L ST S WIT HIN LAN’S E ABC HUR CH EATING &GRACECHL U DRINKING Brick Lane Beigel Bake 8 Café 1001 11 Café Naz 12 IL RC H T BUNH ILL ROW L A N E 9 WORSHIP QUAK ER ST REET SHOREDITCH B UXTO N STRE ET ROAD ST ST C O STREET Dennis Severs’ House SPITAL SQ. Queen’s A Old Spitalfields Market FOURNIER ST FIELD ST M M L AM B S T E R H A N B U R Y ST R PRINCEL ET ST ET C IA EE T L S P E LMAN S Jamme Masjid BRIC MOORGATE SOU TH PL. Originally used as a plague pit. T RK S B I LLITER ST ST M ST RE ORIES ST VI N E S A ET 0 200 yds K. Oct–March closes 4pm. but the flagstone paths and tall trees make it a popular lunchtime Contents Places .cityoflondon. It’s no longer used for burials.30am–4pm. April–Sept Mon–Fri 7. Sat & Sun 9. W MB AR ST D IM E CH U R F E N C H ET RE ST Fenchurch Station ’S YD LLOAV. St ALL CROSSW N ST PORTSOKE ’S YD GOODMAN NTER S. T ER ST W. E GAT ALD H ST OLP T BOT HS ST HIG ATE G A LD ALDGATE UR AM AH BR ST ST T EE TR G RA CEC H LA . CHARLES SQ. CK WENLO ST E RE HOXTON ST MURR R AY G NE CRO NDA L L STREET W FA LKIRK ST NO CREM ER ST R O A D RA SH IP TO N ST RT HR E D IS ST Y VEN PLACES Hoxton and Spitalfields KINGSLA C K ST E A S T TR OA PITFI EL D ST RE E T VEST RY S ASHFORD ST LAND ST HOXTON Hoxton Square D R Y S D A LE S T PE LT A N I LE NIA WK BRITAN ST 1 LO NG ER CHART STREET ’S BACHE ST H ITCH HIGH S T O E ET OLD STREET LD S T ST FEATHERSTONE PAUL STREET WHEL ER ST RNA S CRUT TON LYW RO EL W L ST IN RD CLE Bunhill Fields BATEMAN’S ROW EA 4 TE 5 AS 6 L EONA RD ST TE N E W I N N YA RD 7 RN Wesley’s ST Chapel & KE STRE ET LU Museum COWPER ST GR STR CH OL OL D NI ST H REDCHURC ST T B E SCLATER ST HN GR AL 8 N EE R PROV TREET OST S D FAN S H AW N SC D EN ST BEVE N ST DASHER HABER BUTTES- ST a Columbi R t B ke ar d M Q U ILTE R ST oa ST SS D RO AR T T CHART ST CI BR UN S WI C K P L .129 M IN T QUEENSBRIDGE ROAD WE YM OU ND ST BUCKLA G EFFR Y E S TR E ET PU R C E L L ST Geffrye Museum ND ROAD D TH R NOR NEW OVE APPLEBY ST ST STANWAY P I TF IELD STR EET TH TE RR . OM O L STR EE E FIE T A STR S T H R O G M O RT P OAD CO L O ST M ARY A B L OTH BURY PRI N CE S URC H ST Bank of DLE England E A D N E E THR Leadenhall LE AD E NHAL L ST RE ET BANK Bevis C O R N H I L L Market Marks C REECH CH TH R O GM LA N ST ORTO BU RY ST OL XE S D VIS BR MA CH DU K . TE ST PRE SCO T TT S B CHAM T T ER S S Dragon Home Hoxton Square Bar & Kitchen 6 7 2 Ktchn New Tayyab The Pool Real Greek 4 13 5 3 Sosho Vibe Bar Viet Hoa 9 10 1 © Crown copyright Bunhill Fields City Rd w www. TENT ALDGATE EAST Freedom T UL ST IE ST ST RE E MA LEM NS E L L AN MIN JEWRY ST ST ER ENT T E.30am–7pm. ROW WHITE’S FA SH IO N ST GE ST HENEA ST ND KSA C H IC T N K LA 12 WL THRA E FINSBURY CIRCUS ON DL T ES ET TL AS RE DC ST OL ST ON LIVE E SE X RPO T LL W EN TW ORTH STREE T Taj Stores Whitechapel Art Gallery EL RD P HA EC HIT W ES BEL LL AN ST ST HO NT GU E 13 a co k t t i ar (Pe M RP GO UN CAM OM DS IL DI ST E B E T HO t et Lan ) e T Press HS HIG C EL M OMM’CL RD AP HA RA ECH B IT WH ST T AL ER ENT N. H I RK S E’S PL.
The gallery puts on some of London’s most innovative exhibitions of contemporary art. and lots of stalls selling pungent. are the streets that serve as the venue for Brick Lane’s Sunday market of bric-a-brac (w www . but it does play host to one of the capital’s longest-running Sunday markets.org. others flogging pretty African and Indian fabrics. where there’s a stainless steel anarchist portrait gallery courtesy of the Freedom Press bookshop (see p. Petticoat Lane (officially named Middlesex Street) may not be one of London’s prettiest streets.There are virtually no stalls on Brick Lane itself. partially tanned leather jackets with shoulder pads. where you’ll find everything from bad-quality hardware and cheap CDs to 1970s accessories and military memorabilia.com). Wed 11am–8pm. it’s resolutely unfashionable. Whitechapel Art Gallery 80–82 Whitechapel High St t 020/7522 7888. whose inexpensive curry houses dominate the “Banglatown” (southern) end of the street.trumanbrewery. among the cheap leather shops and bagel bakeries. specializing in cheap (and often pretty tacky) clothing. housed in a beautiful crenellated 1899 Arts and Crafts building. North of the brewery and railway arch. As such. w www. Free. with old-style Cockney traders yelling out prices. a chance for local artists to get their work shown to a wider audience. who’ve carved out quite a hip niche in this part of Brick Lane. instead head down Cheshire Street.The cemetery’s three most famous incumbents are commemorated in the central paved area: William Blake’s simple monument stands northeast of the obelisk to Daniel Defoe.130 spot for local workers. Sun 9am–2pm. Tues & Thurs–Sun 11am–6pm. while opposite lies John Bunyan’s recumbent statue. artists. It ceased operations in 1989 and is now home to a vast number of young designers.eastlondonmarkets. Brick Lane Brick Lane lies at the heart of London’s Bengali community. founded in 1666 and the largest in the world at the end of the nineteenth century.The red-brick chimney half way up Brick Lane heralds the Old Truman Brewery (w www. BRICK LANE MARKET Contents Places . The East End institution that draws in more outsiders than any other is the Whitechapel Art Gallery.The complex also has a pleasant café overlooking Angel Alley. as well as hosting the biennial Whitechapel Open.eastlondonmarkets.whitechapel. down Sclater Street Hoxton and Spitalfields PLACES Petticoat Lane Middlesex St w www .32).com).com. DJs and architects.
The capital’s premier wholesale fruit and vegetable market until 1991. London’s largest Georgian organ. £5. potted plants and cut flowers from the stalls. plus following Mon noon–2pm. £12. Free.As well as seeds. Oct–March 6–9pm. Inside. Columbia Road Flower Market Columbia Rd w www . “The Experience” first and third Sun of each month 2–5pm.org. with the loud and upfront stallholders catering to an increasingly moneyed clientele. it’s also the liveliest. but the red-brick and green-gabled eastern half of the original building.co. Sun noon–5pm. The church hall. and who went on strike against their miserable wages and work conditions. next door. Built between 1714 and 1729 to a characteristically bold design by Nicholas Hawksmoor. city’s most popular market for flowers and plants. w www. folk flog what looks like the contents of their cupboards straight off the pavement. cakes and coffee from the local cafés.oldspitalfieldsmarket. Columbia Road is the Old Spitalfields Market Commercial St wwww. Sun 9am–5pm.uk.dennissevershouse. courtesy of Norman Foster. Sun 8am–1pm. £8. who personified the Dickensian stereotype of the downtrodden East End girl. which Severs once described as “passing through a frame into a painting”. and you can keep yourself sustained with bagels. Geffrye Museum Kingsland Rd w www.geffrye-museum .com. built in 1893. and are left with the distinct impression that someone has literally just popped out: the house cat prowls. Spitalfields Commercial St w www. was host in 1888 to meetings of the Bryant & May match girls. home of the late American eccentric Dennis Severs is a bizarre and uncanny theatrical experience. glassy offices. “Silent Night” Mon: April–Sept 8–11pm. food and organic fruit and vegetables.com. there’s a forest of giant columned bays. survives. raised on steps and shaped like a Venetian window (a central arched opening flanked by two smaller rectangles).eastlondonmarkets. Old Spitalfields Market now hosts a large.uk. eclectic and fairly sophisticated selection of shops and stalls selling crafts. Mon–Fri 10am–4pm.org.christchurchspitalfields. Visiting the former PLACES Hoxton and Spitalfields Christ Church. Tues–Sat 10am–5pm. Set back from the main road in a peaceful little enclave of eighteenth-century ironmongers’ almshouses. opposite.Visitors are free to explore the candle-lit and log-fired Georgian house unhindered. you’ll also find every kind of gardening accessory from the chi-chi shops that line the street. All in all.131 and beyond. it’s a mad and manic affair that’s worth a look for the street theatre alone. with a lion and a unicorn playing peekaboo on the top of the chancel beam and. clothes. aromas of dinner waft up from the kitchen and the sound of horses’ hooves can be heard from the cobbled street outside. dedicated to furniture Contents Places . Hoxton’s one conventional tourist sight is the Geffrye Museum. Half the market was recently knocked down to make way for yet more boxy. Christ Church features a huge 225-foot-high broach spire and giant Tuscan portico. bulbs. a motif repeated in the tower and doors. Dennis Severs’ House 18 Folgate St t 020/7247 4013.
leads to the state-ofthe-art New Gallery Extension. Classic 24hr Shops Freedom Press Angel Alley t 020/7247 9249. Closed Sat. consonant-free Shoreditch Contents Places . Cafés Brick Lane Beigel Bake 159 Brick Lane. side of the Truman Brewery. A series of period living rooms. Tiny. Mainstays are simple. Upholding a long East End takeaway bagel shop in the heart of the East End – unbelievably cheap. Tucked in by the Queens Shop 111B. ranging from the oak-panelled seventeenth century through refined Georgian and cluttered Victorian. housing the excellent twentiethcentury section and a pleasant café/restaurant. this smoky café has a beaten-up studenty look. even for fillings such as smoked salmon with cream cheese. Old Spitalfields Market t 020/7426 0017. tradition of radical politics.132 Hoxton and Spitalfields PLACES GEFFRYE MUSEUM design since 1911. One of the almshouses has been restored to its original condition and can be visited on the first Saturday of the month (£2). Closed Sat & Sun. with lots of sofas to crash in. this small anarchist bookshop is packed with everything from Bakhunin to Chomsky. filling sandwiches and delicious cakes. Closed Sun. Tatty Devine 236 Brick Lane t 020/7739 9009.tattydevine. high-camp shop specializing in kitsch gifts – just the place to pick up a pair of fairy wings or a gay teddy. safety-pin brooches and perspex earrings. Ktchn 35 Charlotte Rd. Gate 14. w www.com. Funky shop which stocks (and exhibits) wacky. Pink. tacky T-shirts and accessories by young designers: tape measure belts. Café 1001 1 Dray’s Lane.
Closed Sun. serving delicious. kitsch-to-club soundtracks.Try one of the splendid “meals in a bowl”. clubby pub with bare-brick walls and crumbling leather sofas attracts a bohemian mix of locals and pre-clubbers most nights. busy mezedopoliou. rare-roast beef. Contents Places . cuts an imposing modern figure on Brick Lane.uk. with good cocktails and decent food.uk. Smart. Closed Sun. with its open-plan kitchen.133 café with just four stools. but plenty of comfy leather sofas and good vibes. big bean bags and weekend DJs playing a mix of upfront house and garage. Blade Runneresque concrete bar that attracts artists. friendly crowd. worn leather sofas and temporary painting and photography exhibitions. with a lofty. Hoxton’s proclaimed “contemporary Bangladeshi” restaurant.co. Real Greek 15 Hoxton Market t 020/7739 8212. Prices have remained low. and a more formal restaurant offering authentic Greek main courses. Vibe Bar Old Truman Brewery. Hoxton Square Bar and Kitchen 2–4 Hoxton Square. Pubs and bars Dragon 5 Leonard St.The menu has all the standards (plus plenty of baltis). PLACES Hoxton and Spitalfields Restaurants Café Naz 46–48 Brick Lane t 020/7247 0234. Large. This self- Home 100–106 Leonard St w www. where you can order a few meze (for around £5).uk. 91–95 Brick Lane w www.homebar . Best in the summer.therealgreek. Popular two- A world away from your average London Greek-Cypriot joint. The Pool 104–108 Curtain Rd. original club-bar continues to attract a hip. writers and wannabes with its mix of modern European food. Set lunches and early dinners (before 7pm) are under £15. light and airy Vietnamese café in a street now heaving with similar places. Service is excellent.30pm (Wed–Sat). Cover charge at weekends.co. Viet Hoa Café 72 Kingsland Rd t 020/7729 8293. freshly cooked and served without pretension. when the drinking spills into the square in a carnival-like spirit. floored bar with pool tables.co.uk. Trendy bar in the old brewery with free Internet access.co.com. grilled tuna. freshly prepared upmarket lunch options: big soups. No DJs. Sosho 2a Tabernacle St w sosho3am. booking is essential and service is speedy and slick. good lounging sofas and DJs in the evenings. minimalist place serving straightforward Pakistani fare: good. or the noodle dishes with everything from spring rolls to tofu. This discreetly signed.cafenaz.vibe-bar. New Tayyab 83 Fieldgate St t 020/7247 9543.uk. w www. w www.co. Closed Sun.tayyabs. exotic salads and great pastries. the ambience is chilled until the very popular DJs kick in at 8. and the prices are keen. w www. Very trendy club-bar.
DLR trains set off from Bank tube.134 The Tower and Docklands PLACES The Tower and Docklands One of the city’s main tourist attractions.uk/dlr). Sun 10am–6pm. the Tower of London sits beside the Thames surrounded by a wide. Nov–Feb Mon & Sun 10am–5pm.hrp.gov. whose driverless trains run on overhead tracks. it has been used variously as a royal residence. Chiefly famous as a place of imprisonment and death. Tues–Sat 9am–5pm. close to Tower Hill tube and the Tower of London.tfl. Docklands Light Railway The best way to visit Docklands is to take the Docklands Light Railway or DLR (t 020/7363 9700. One of the most perfectly preserved medieval fortresses in the country. or from Tower Gateway. armoury. DOCKLANDS LIGHT RAILWAY Contents Places .50. March–Oct Mon–Sat 9am–6pm.org. w www .uk. dry moat. No one thought the area could be rejuvenated when the docks closed in the 1960s. built in the nineteenth century to cope with the huge volume of goods shipped in along the Thames from all over the Empire. £13. the Tower of London was the site of some of the goriest events in the nation’s history. and is somewhere all visitors should try and get to see. Immediately to the east are the remains of what was the largest enclosed cargodock system in the world. but over the last twenty years. Tower of London w www. waterside penthouse apartments have been built and a huge high-rise office development has sprung up around Canary Wharf. and give out great views over the cityscape. warehouses have been converted into luxury flats.
It’s free to walk across the bridge. begun in 1076 and now home to displays from the Royal Armouries. but you must pay to gain access to the elevated walkways (daily 9. and was used to imprison Walter Ralegh on three separate occasions. these exservicemen relish hamming up the gory stories. The raising of the bascules (from the French for “see-saw”) remains an impressive sight – phone ahead to find out when the bridge is opening (t 020/7940 3984). you should take one of the free guided tours. allowing you just 28 PLACES The Tower and Docklands TOWER OF LONDON RAVEN seconds’ viewing during peak periods. observatory and – a function it still serves – a safe-deposit box for the Crown Jewels. Among the jewels are the three largest cut diamonds in the world. a beautiful Norman structure completed in 1080. £4. menagerie. its neo-Gothic towers are clad in Cornish granite and Portland stone. it’s the oldest intact church building in London.To the west of the White Tower is the execution spot on Tower Green where seven highly-placed but unlucky individuals were beheaded.30am–6pm. As well as giving a good introduction to the Tower’s history. but the moving walkways which take you past the loot are disappointingly swift. The Crown Jewels.towerbridge. at the time. Tower Bridge ranks with Big Ben as the most famous of all London landmarks. allowing a road crossing that could be raised to give tall ships access to the upper reaches of the Thames.uk. are the major reason so many people flock to the Tower. but in times gone by most prisoners were delivered through Traitors’ Gate. including the legendary Koh-iNoor.The nearby Bloody Tower saw the murders of 12-year-old Edward V and his 10-year-old brother. on the waterfront. Tower Bridge w www.135 mint. Completed in 1894. Visitors today enter the Tower along Water Lane. Before you set off to explore the complex. but conceal a steel frame which. is the original “Tower”. of course. including a thirteen-year stretch. given every thirty minutes or so by one of the Tower’s Beefeaters (officially known as Yeoman Warders).50) linking Contents Places . represented a considerable engineering achievement. you should at least pay a visit to the Chapel of St John on the second floor.The oldest piece of regalia is the twelfth-century Anointing Spoon.org. The White Tower. at the centre of the complex. set into the Queen Mother’s Crown in 1937. Even if you’ve no interest in military paraphernalia. among them Anne Boleyn and her cousin Catherine Howard (Henry VIII’s second and fifth wives). when many of the royal riches were melted down for coinage or sold off. but the vast majority of exhibits postdate the Commonwealth (1649–60).
More appealing. BI GLAND ST TARLING ST MARTHA STREET OW ALDGATE RI E S MINO ST AM AH BR ST A LI E R O A D LIMEHOUSE A Limehouse Basin N ARROW OR RO K S . and the old warehouses house shops. A PP. pubs and restaurants that get a lot of passing trade thanks to the close proximity of the Tower. Built in the late 1820s to relieve the congestion on the River Thames.stkaths. carpets and cigars – shipped in from all over the Empire. with its clock tower. however. TOWER BRIDGE Contents Places S ST 1 TR EE T N AD PP . are the old swing bridges over the basins (including a Telford footbridge from 1828).uk. T DEVONPOR ST SAL M ON HENRIQUES ST BACK C H URCH LA. spices.co. where you can see the giant. coal-fired boilers and play some interactive engineering games. the boats themselves (you’ll often see beautiful old sailing ships and Dutch barges). W C O M M E R C I A L A RBOUR SQ. St Katharine’s Docks were originally surrounded by high walls to protect the warehouses used to store luxury goods – ivory. and now defunct.The views are pretty good and you get to visit the Engine Room on the south side of the bridge. and the attractive Ivory House warehouse. T ST Light Railway Docklands L B A C CHAPMA N ST E SHADWELL S T R E E T TU L NNE St George in-the-East T St Paul H GAR N E REARDON TOW ER B RIDG E PR ER HI ST KATH ARI N R OTH E RH IT O US 2 AY W TH E London St Katharine’s Docks E’S A WAY AS HE R KENNE T ST MILK YD N PPI WA HE TU NNEL TOWER HILL EA D Tower ST FI E L S M I TH of TH H E O N ST H G WA P P IN I G W A Y WAL L PEN N I N G T Shadwell Basin TS T ST St Peter M G TENCH NK W SAMSON ST Tower Bridge Y ST E AP PI NG St John G R E E N B HIG H A Wapping Pier Head STR E ET TH TU AM NN ES EL WAPPING RO TH L SA TE R RO Wapping Police Station the summits of the towers – closed from 1909 to 1982 due to their popularity with prostitutes and the suicidal. Nowadays. St Katharine’s Docks wwww.136 WHITE HORSE RD BARNES ST BROMLEY ST ALDGATE EAST SUTTON ST LUKIN ST Central London BUTCHER R JEW ST RY G L AMIS ROAD TOWER GATEWAY OT PRESC ST PER HOO ST ELLEN ST BURSLEM ST The Tower and Docklands PLACES MIN YAL RO TOWER BR. the docks are used as an upmarket marina. CANN GOWER’S WK CHR ISTI AN ST Y LE MA REE ON ST MANSELL ST T NS W A T RO DOCK D ST VA U OM A N GH SM O R E ST L A A N . at the centre of the three basins.
the marine police. L AN E RD OUTH LEAM KE RB EY ST CHR IS P ST WE ST London City Airport EH OU ST RH ROT H E IN . flanked by grand. lie the district’s less salubrious council estates. in a stark contrast typical of Docklands. Further east. a couple of preserved overhead gangways cross the High Street just before Wapping Police Station. Canary Wharf w www. thus tall brick-built warehouses. TUN O A SAF FRO NA V. line the Thames side of the street. O F ST D O G S Mudchute Park O R AD Millwall Docks F E R R Y W E Greenwich uniformed police force. D Greenwich Foot Tunnel 0 500 yds © Crown copyright Places .com. this is the one New Docklands area that you can happily stroll around. curvaceous Regency terraces. while to the north. INDIA CABOT AVENUE SQ. founded in the 1790s.Traditionally. and perhaps having a drink overlooking one of the old wharves. W A Y W AY A KW LL Poplar Dock Canary Wharf Tower South Dock SOUTH QUAY Blackwall Basin BLACKWALL TUNNEL Millennium Dome 3 NORTH GREENWICH M I LL E N River Thames RS H WA LL BYNG STREET 4 MARSH WALL T U NN M N IU CH RO A APP T U N N E L UE V EN EL A STE WA R MANCHES EATING & DRINKING Baradero 6 Dickens Inn 2 The Gun 3 Hubbub 7 Mem Saheb on Thames 5 Prospect of Whitby 1 Tollesbury Thames Barge 4 TAEPING ST EB ON M A QU RITI AY M E CHA PEL RY CA RO AD Y FERR ST S HO U SE ST R E ET CH AN R ISLAND M DE UN GARDENS SA ES R NESS FE ST T UE Millwall Park HI R R OA 7 S TER R OA D DA LE ST SP I N DR I F T AV E N MUDCHUTE R O A D Wapping High Street If you arrive on Wapping High Street expecting the usual parade of shops. taking in the modern architecture and landscaping.137 TOWN TT BURDE RD R T H ST NO CO M M E R C IAL ROAD T LS NEWEL CANTO N ST G R U ND Y ST LI M St Anne E A C DO DIA IN WE ST S T D O C I A I N D ALL SAINTS C OTT ON K R LL CKWA BLA NEL A P P. Halfway along the High Street is Wapping Pier Head. COLONNADE S. later tomatoes and bananas (from the Canary Islands – hence the name). COLONNA CANADA DE SQ. looking out for some of the tongue-in-cheek sculptures. you’re in for a surprise. the former entrance to the London Docks. DIA D W AY R EE T WESTFERRY LI OCK RO AD POPLAR HIGH STREET POPLAR BLACKWALL C BLA EAST INDIA ST KR RO Four Seasons Hotel TR WESTFERRY CIRCUS W.canarywharf. Now a pedestrian-friendly business district. the business of Wapping took place on the river. The geographical and ideological heart of the new Docklands is Canary Wharf. most now tastefully converted into expensive flats. ALG AR AD AF HERON QUAYS WESTFERRY ROAD M P R E ST O N S MILLHARBOUR ENTERPRISE ZONE L IM E H AR B O U R EA ST FE RR Y RO AD SE H IT E STREET NK Museum in Docklands Canary CANARY WHARF Wharf Pier HERON QUAY A D PLACES The Tower and Docklands A S P E N WEST INDIA QUAY West India Dock N. headquarters of the world’s oldest Contents E R S A L T R O A D W AY TS T MEL LISH ST CROSSHARBOUR TILLER ROAD 6 G LENG ALL G R. 5 T SE AM AM RD D R T ER E A S T I S L E BARNSDALE AV. LO W ER LE A CROSSING ORCHAR D D PL. previously a destination for rum and mahogany.
as does the 1902 Greenwich Foot Tunnel (open 24hr). this is a real oasis in the desert of Westferry Road.The gardens themselves are nothing special. the southernmost tip of the Isle of Dogs. But it’s best known for the £800 million of taxpayers’ money that was poured into it.museumindocklands. Architecturally. but the view is spectacular – this was Christopher Wren’s favourite Thames-side spot.182 & 183). the Royal Naval College and the Royal Observatory (see pp. a period reconstruction of the old docklands and numerous paintings and photographs. the Docklands Light Railway heads under the Thames to Greenwich (see p. both close up and from a distance – its flashing pyramidshaped pinnacle is a feature of the horizon at numerous points in London. Hertsemere Rd w www. coffee and cotton. offering decent fry-ups. officially known as One Canada Square.180). sandwiches and a few fancier dishes. The Tower and Docklands PLACES Canary Wharf ’s name is. held up by a dozen. and its future is as yet undecided.138 The Millennium Dome Clearly visible from Greenwich’s riverside and park. you’ll find Warehouse No. synonymous with Cesar Pelli’s landmark tower. of course. Within an arts centre in a converted former church. which cost £20 a head. £5. MUSEUM IN DOCKLANDS Contents Places . Island Gardens Manchester Rd. Amidst the dockside bars and restaurants. the Dome has remained (expensively) empty since then. for storing rum. Spread over five floors. Museum in Docklands West India Quay. At Island Gardens. The last surviving Georgian warehouses of the West India Docks lie on the far side of a floodlit floating bridge at West India Quay. it’s the world’s largest dome.uk. it’s eye-catching enough: over half a mile in circumference and 160ft in height. Apart from a few one-off events. it’s an undeniably impressive sight. 300ft-tall yellow steel masts. molasses. the exhibits chart the history of the area from Roman times to the development of Canary Wharf via interactive displays. much of it to pay for the millennium exhibition and show.org. Britain’s tallest building and the first skyscraper anywhere to be clad in stainless steel. was panned by the critics and dismantled after one year. from which he could contemplate his masterpieces across the river. and now home to the Museum in Docklands. sugar. the Dome is the archetypal millennial cock-up. 1. built in 1803 Cafés Hubbub 269 Westferry Rd. Daily 10am–6pm.
Decent Indian restaurant with a superb view over the river to the Millennium Dome.Wine is the tipple of choice. An old dockers’ pub with lots of maritime memorabilia and – the main attraction – an unrivalled view of the Millennium Dome. this warehouse is a remarkable building (with a great view). off Pepper St t 020/7537 1666. Tollesbury Thames Barge Marsh Wall. a pint. Mem Saheb on Thames 65–67 Amsterdam Rd t 020/7538 3008. plus the odd unusual dish like Rajasthani khargosh (rabbit and spinach). The Gun 27 Cold Harbour. a cobbled courtyard and great views over the Thames. but there’s also Harvey’s Sussex bitter and cheap bar snacks. light and airy. Pubs Dickens Inn St Katharine’s Way. though restaurant-quality main courses are also on offer. Closed Sat lunch & Sun. Closed Sun eve. London’s most famous riverside pub. with a real feel of the old docklands: a flagstone floor.Try the simple pan con tomate or some classic boquerones (white anchovies). Prospect of Whitby 57 Wapping Wall. both under £5 a dish. is essentially a tapas bar.139 PLACES The Tower and Docklands MILLENNIUM DOME Restaurants Baradero Turnberry Quay. Very firmly on the tourist trail. this eighteenth century timber-framed Contents Places . all for under £10. and a view of the Millwall Docks. and houses a branch of Wheeler’s fish restaurant and a pizzeria as well as serving lunchtime pub food. Modern. Standard tandoori kebabs. Courage beer and surprisingly adventurous pub food. The ultimate new Docklands experience: an old Thames barge. too.
The South Bank Centre is home to a whole variety of artistic institutions. a majestic. concrete exteriors of the Queen Elizabeth Hall (QEH) and the more intimate Purcell Room. and thanks to the wide. built in 1951 for the Festival of Britain and one of London’s chief concert venues. it’s a great place to wander through during the day. w www. which contains the country’s only permanent exhibition devoted to the Holocaust. replete with café and bookshop and often hosting a free gig or exhibition.sbc. As well as the massive waterside arts centre. traffic-free riverside boulevard. A short walk from the South Bank lie one or two lesser-known but nonetheless absorbing sights such as the Imperial War Museum. Hungerford Bridge The best way to approach the South Bank is to walk from Embankment tube across the Hungerford Bridge. South Bank Centre t 020/7960 4242.uk. it’s home to a host of tourist attractions including the enormously popular London Eye observation wheel. symmetrical double suspension footbridge that runs either side of Hungerford railway bridge. the views from here are the best on the river.org.rfh. w www. Above these two. With most of London sitting on the north bank of the Thames. built in the 1960s to the north of the RFH in an uncompromisingly brutalist 1960s style. the most attractive of which is the Royal Festival Hall (RFH. the most depressing part of the South Bank Centre are the grim-grey.uk). dishing out great river views either side. SOUTH BANK VIEW FROM HUNGERFORD BRIDGE Contents Places . but particularly to the south towards Big Ben. Architecturally.With its openplan.140 South Bank and around South Bank and around PLACES The South Bank has a lot going for it. multi-level foyer. the whole area can be happily explored on foot.org.
TR OA D BO R D N D ARY ROW A T E R ST L O B A Y L I S MU RP ST HY EET EET Radio Days T STR STR EET AL ACE ROAD Y S TR UPP ER 8 N RLE RM MA RSH I CARLIS LE L ANE Lambeth Palace Museum TH of Garden A M B E History L LK T WA E T H H I GH ST AD RO K Imperial War Museum 0 BR OO KD RIV E 100 yds EET Vauxhall STR W H S A IL JUX B ON ST LA MB ET L IS E STRE AL K TR RO LO LLA RD OL ST A GD VE’S NS OLD PARA D BIS HO TE P ’ S R R ACE FIT ZA ST LAN EATING & DRINKING WA W LCO AL TS NU BalticT 5 Little Saigon 9 RSJ 3 Q. at the southern end of Waterloo Bridge. TR Film Café-Bar 2 WALCOT SQUARE Masters Super Fish 8 Tas 6 EE W A Fire StationLK 7 Oxo Tower GDST MARY’S NS Konditor & Cook 4 Restaurant 1 WI NC OA KD E A CL HO OS RN E PRAT M E T A L EET AD © Crown copyright with its strange rooftop neon sculpture. NT E . Contents Places N ST .org.141 Blackfriars N e s a m T h Book Market National Film Theatre 1 Royal National Theatre P P TER WA LO OB Oxo Tower R O H BARGE T OUS S RIVERSIDE WALK Bankside r e D N RENNIE STREET E RID U LL D WA BROA GE i v G DU BLACK FR IARS Queen Elizabeth Hall R E R CO IN PLACES South Bank and around CH Y H DEN PA R I S G A R U T REE S OUT H B ANK C E NT R E Embankment HUN GE BRID RFORD GE T Royal NS OO Festival Hayward Gallery D Hall BFI IMAX CON Cinema CE ST CO LO AM FO R D2 STR EET ST RE ET RE A T AS UIN AQ ST F ST ET ST BO M I E L R OAD L L W A R N C O D S APP RT H ROA ALL CH St John T S TREE THEED ST TLESEY WHIT TT ST MEYMO JOAN ST T E NIS O N RO AD London Eye WAY MEP HAM EXTO ST N ST 3 ST ELL OUP Waterloo R STREET BRAD East EET STR ET GRE BEL VED ERE T R OA Jubilee Gardens ALA S KA ST TTON WOO ET STRE ISABELLA ST M IL SOUTHWARK C U A D R O A LW A i WATERLOO Young Vic Theatre 6 W AD S CON D ST T D WES Y O R K County Hall CHIC HE ST LEY Waterloo Station RO T H ER E ST RT SHO 5 ST REE T U 4 B LAC K FR IAR S LK R O R O A D IO AT M W WESTMINSTER BRIDGE ROAD E R FR A ST RA LS GR AY BA ST RO N’ SP EB L. COL Archbishop’s Park HE RC UL NB AD G LA ROO COSS ER STRE ET KING RO DS E KS S T LA M IL S EDW ARD TH BE TAU WALK St Thomas’s Hospital ROY AL S TRE ET T NE E TE W N H R RR A AC M E D RS T PEA S LAMBETH NORTH B AN M DO DS W MO TON ST R OAD O T W L O R ZI ER O A E S CEN P R I D G E D R O A ST D ON ST ST GEORGE’S CIRCUS Elephant & Castle O N G T I N N N K E VIR G R T O GE OR R GE ’S O A D ES TON A H E T M B L A T A D R O . Saatchi Gallery. Lastly. w www. BE R RO W A DD ING A R N S CO 7 R S TR EET VA L AP H BE CH EB PR AP (London Aquarium.Tues & Wed until 8pm.bfi. is the eye-catching glassdrum of the high-tech BFI London IMAX Cinema. £9 depending upon the exhibition.uk/nft). which screens London’s most esoteric movies and has a decent café/bar. sits the Hayward Gallery (daily 10am–6pm.org. Tucked underneath Waterloo Bridge is the National Film Theatre (NFT.hayward. Dalí Universe) Old Vic Theatre MI W CH FF LIN E LE O OA U AK CL INE P L . Behind the NFT. w www.uk). one of the city’s best venues for largescale contemporary art exhibitions and retrospectives.
paintings or sculptures are usually intriguing. and it’s constantly in slow motion – a full-circle “flight” in one of its 32 pods takes around thirty minutes.ba-londoneye. the magnificently graceful observation wheel which spins slowly and silently over the Thames. is the Royal National Theatre (t 020/7452 3000. recent landmark is the London Eye.com. At the top. on the top floor. as you can see right out to where the suburbs slip into the countryside.co. you’re at one of the few places (apart from a plane window) from which London looks a manageable size. It boasts three separate theatres – a Greek-style arena. browsable studioshops for contemporary designers (Tues–Sun 11am–6pm) and an art gallery (daily 11am–6pm. though the engineering and the views are awesome. the wheel is the largest ever built.Ticket prices are outrageously high.nt-online. Daily: April–Sept 9. £11. The building now contains flats. whose exhibitions of contemporary photographs. w www . free). Daily until 10pm. SOUTH BANK on the east side of Waterloo Bridge.142 South Bank and around PLACES ROYAL FESTIVAL HALL. Oct–March 9am–8pm. and lifts you high above the city. its series of horizontal concrete layers looking suspiciously like a multistorey car park. London’s most prominent Oxo Tower w www. there’s a very swanky restaurant and brasserie. popularly known as “the National” or NT. You don’t need to eat or drink here to enjoy the view from the top: just take the lift to the eighth-floor public viewing gallery.30am–10pm. queues can also be very bad at the Contents Places . Standing 443ft high. a proscenium arch and a flexible studio – and puts on everything from Shakespeare to the latest David Hare. London Eye t 0870/5000 600.uk. w www. The Oxo Tower started life as a power station before being converted into a meatpacking factory for the company that makes Oxo stock cubes – the lettering is spelt out in the windows of the main tower.oxotower.org).
151). you’ll be disappointed if you’re expecting to see his “greatest hits” here – those are scattered across the globe. the aquarium is fairly conservative in design. Saatchi’s extravagant wallet also helped promote the Young British Artists of the 1980s and 1990s.Though impressive in scale. a copy of his famous Mae West lips sofa. is now in the hands of a Japanese property company. Mon–Thurs & Sun 10am–6pm. County Hall.The gallery puts on changing exhibitions drawn primarily from Saatchi’s vast collection. and everything from dog-face puffers to piranhas. Fri & Sat 10am–10pm. and moved into the new GLA (Greater London Authority) building further downstream (see p. Daily 10am–6pm or later. Aside from these.50.With some superlarge.Yet while Dalí was undoubtedly an accomplished and prolific artist.uk. £8. it’s pretty much guaranteed to please younger kids. was. which Edward James commissioned for his London home. Daily 10am–5. and the oil painting from the dream Contents Places . with no walk-through tanks and only the very briefest of information on any of the fish. £8.143 weekend. Most of the works on display are little-known bronze and glass sculptures.30pm. the man whose advertising for the Conservative government helped topple County Hall’s previous incumbents. Saatchi Gallery t 020/7823 2363. The most popular attraction in County Hall is the London Aquarium. the collector behind the gallery. where children can actually stroke the (non-sting) rays. £8. restaurants. the former GLC leader Ken Livingstone was elected as Mayor of London. ranging from Ovid to the Marquis de Sade.co.75.co. an amusement arcade and a bizarre clutch of tourist attractions. laid out across three floors of the basement. the GLC.50.The “Beach”. in fact.saatchi-gallery. so book in advance over the phone or online. w www . as well as drawings from the many illustrated books which he published.uk.com. is particularly popular. there’s one of the numerous Lobster Telephones. multi-floor tanks. In 2000. Three giant surrealist sculptures on the river-facing side of County Hall herald the Dalí Universe. The Saatchi County Hall The colonnaded crescent of County Hall is the only truly monumental building on the South Bank. which was abolished by Margaret Thatcher in 1986 leaving London as the only European city without an elected authority. meanwhile. it was completed in 1933 and enjoyed its greatest moment of fame as headquarters of the GLC (Greater London Council). and currently houses several hotels. as he snapped up headline-grabbing works such as Damien Hirst’s pickled shark and Tracey Emin’s soiled and crumpled bed. Designed to house the now defunct London County Council. London Aquarium w www. Charles Saatchi. Dalí Universe Riverside Walk w www.daliuniverse .londonaquarium. PLACES South Bank and around Gallery of contemporary art occupies the incongruously imposing former council chamber of County Hall.
the commander of the Bounty in 1787. SOUTH BANK Contents Places . though £2. domed building that was once the infamous “Bedlam” lunatic asylum. and has made a valiant attempt to avoid depicting the victims of the Holocaust as nameless masses by focusing on individual cases. DALÍ SCULPTURE. among other things. interspersing the archive footage with eyewitness accounts from contemporary survivors.org. the Imperial War Museum holds by far the best collection of militaria in the capital. including shoes. Free. A huge stock of well-kept womens’ and mens’ clothing from the same period fills the back room. Free. who is buried here.30am–5pm. offering everything from current and recent fiction to obscure psychology textbooks. gardener to James I and Charles I. cosmetics and vintage magazines.iwm. Entered from the third floor. film theory. Daily 10am–6pm. Housed in a Museum of Garden History South Bank and around PLACES Lambeth Palace Rd w www. a seven-headed griffin and several crocodiles. Secondhand book market by the Thames.144 sequence in Hitchcock’s movie Spellbound.co. the more unusual is Tradescant’s memorial.uk /~museumgh. with the main hall’s militaristic display offset by the lowerground-floor array of documents and images attesting to the human damage of war. Shops Book Market South Bank. Housed in the deconsecrated Kentish ragstone church of St Mary-at-Lambeth. modern European poetry and pulp science fiction. beneath Waterloo Bridge. depicting. shotglass collections. the harrowing Holocaust Exhibition (not recommended for children under 14) pulls few punches. March to mid-Dec daily 10. Sat & Sun only.The treatment of the subject matter is impressively wide-ranging and fairly sober. Radio Days 87 Lower Marsh. this unpretentious little museum puts particular emphasis on John Tradescant.cix.uk. Fantastic collection of memorabilia and accessories from the 1930s to the 1970s. where two interesting sarcophagi lurk among the foliage: one belongs to Captain Bligh.50 donation suggested.The graveyard has been transformed into a small seventeenthcentury garden. Imperial War Museum Lambeth Rd w www.
too – expect modern Britsh dishes (£10–15). Closed Sun. Run by Harvey Nichols. bakery. with a few tables. all served with a wonderful array of sauces. place offering pukka Vietnamese spring rolls. stylish bar (and restaurant) situated opposite Southwark tube in an old Georgian coachworks. Set meals for around £16. Closed Sun. offering wonderful cakes and biscuits. this elegant eighthfloor restaurant offers great views and equally good Modern European cuisine.tasrestaurant. old-fashioned. Restaurants Little Saigon 139 Westminster Bridge Rd t 020/7207 9747. Oxo Restaurant Oxo Tower. Good.balticrestaurant.rsj. Family-run Pubs and bars Baltic 74 Blackfriars Rd t 020/7928 1111. plus great crispy fried noodles.com. w www . w www. The National Film Theatre’s bar is the only one on the South Bank riverfront between Westminster and Blackfriars bridges – worth checking out for the views and the congenial crowd. no-nonsense fish and chip pit stop. eat in or take away.There’s a brasserie (main dishes £10–15) and a restaurant (£15–20). w www. Quality this a good spot for a meal before or after an evening at a South Bank theatre or concert hall. Film Café-bar South Bank. competitively priced Turkish food.com. Contents Places . specializing in vodka shots and Baltic snacks. Regularly high standards of Anglo-French cooking make red-painted former fire station is a popular place for an afterwork pint. Masters Super Fish 191 Waterloo Rd.The menu is a monster so most folk go for the set options. w www. Welcoming restaurant serving excellent.com. This gloriously RSJ 13a Coin St t 020/7928 4554.uk. as well as sandwiches and coffee and tea. Fire Station 150 Waterloo Rd.harveynichols.uk.co. grilled squid-cake and crystal pancakes. PLACES South Bank and around Tas 33 The Cut t 020/7928 3300.145 Cafés Konditor & Cook 22 Cornwall Rd. Stark. Closed Sun.The restaurant at the back is good. Barge House St t 020/7803 3888. starting at three courses for around £8.
146 Bankside and Southwark PLACES Bankside and Southwark In Tudor and Stuart London. Four hundred years on. Operating DON BR Theatre IDG WH LO N D ES Golden Southwark Hinde Cathedral R STONE Y ST STRE SS H I G H DC ST LOMAN ST RE NELSON SQUARE RO W SU RR EY C OPPER FIELD S TR EET AY R E S NE U T HW K A R ME WC RM OM A ID EN UR T ST K ST UR GE O SUD REY ST CROS LAN TOU LMIN ST T ST 5 REE T EA ROA D WEBBER STREET S EX SIL T S BOROUGH B T R E O R St George L O N G 6 AR D TAB ST S U PORLOCK ST L A N E E T Contents Places K I P L I NG ST RE E T O G H ST LS B Y RO W CK POCO SH TENN STRE ET IS CO RE ET G R E AT MA Z E RO S T U N I O N STRE E ET EET PON UNIO N STR T R TA LBO TY D 3 E E KIN HEA G’S DY ITE HA RT ON BR ID G E T D Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre SOU THW ARK BRID GE HO LL AN D ST DRAL S T THE T PARK S GRE B EA R R UI AT G EE LA N T G R E A T E LDF LONDON BRIDGE D AR YD E ET S U F F SA W Y E R MA RS HA O CH GL EN H SB T G’ REE R T O KIN ST L RU AS SH IL W L ST GT T ER S DOV ST . Millennium Bridge The first new bridge to be built across the Thames since Tower Bridge opened in 1894. but most people are too MILLENNIUM BRIDGE RE E T ST NEW GLOBE WALK BEAR GARD ENS ROSE ALLE Y B AN K S I D E 1 N H O P TO Tate Modern E ME B ANK EN D RSON ST PA R K STREET C L I NK S T R O A D PORTER ST SUMNER STREET CA MONTA G CL. stainless-steel Millennium Bridge is London’s sole pedestrian-only crossing. It still wobbles a bit. UE S O PRICE’S S U T T H W A R K L AV I N G T O N S T RE ET EW ER ST ZOAR ST WINCHESTE R WK T OOLEY ST D UK E ST HILL EE 2 T THR O’M EAR AS T DOLBEN ST GAMBIA ST B R I D G E Y S O U T H W A R K ORD STR S T R E E T ALE ST Borough Market T WA ST MAR GARET’S CT MAID BUILD STONE INGS Old LON RAILWAY APP. this is easily one of the most enjoyable areas of London in which to hang out. A suspension bridge of innovative design. the chief reason for crossing the Thames to Southwark was to visit the then-disreputable Bankside entertainment district around the south end of London Bridge. it famously bounced up and down when it first opened and had to be closed immediately for another two years for repairs. And with a traffic-free. thanks to wholesale regeneration that has engendered a wealth of new attractions along the riverside between Blackfriars and Tower bridges and beyond – with the charge led by the mighty Tate Modern art gallery. the sleek. riverside path connecting most of the sights. Londoners have rediscovered the area.
uk. and level 5. Bankside is dominated by the austere power station now transformed by the Swiss duo Herzog & de Meuron into the Tate Modern art gallery. LAN AD TH Butler’s Wharf AM ES RO AD HO T ND MS E LY DO W NHA SHA ST ELI ZA D ST SF RE QUE OR ST EN GA E RS IN ET DRUID Design Museum S T Contents STR EET L E AT H ERMA RKET ST T A N NE R S T R EE T MA 8 ICA RD M IL OL DOCK H E A D © Crown copyright W SEL EY S T Places . Fri & Sat open until 10pm. IDG am es Butler’s Wharf Gastrodome SH E N WE AVE R’S LA. It’s easy enough to find your way around the galleries: pick up a plan (and. journey time is twenty minutes. Free. and multi-trip tickets.The masterful conversion has left plenty of the original industrial feel. valid all day. and level 7 has a rooftop café with a great view over the Thames. so you get the full effect of the stupendously large turbine hall.This. 2 El Vergel 5 LOW 0 Tower of London EA ST S M200 yds I T H F I ELD St Katharine’s Docks R I NE ’ S W AY HMS Belfast London Dungeon O BA TT LE Riv er Th ST KA THA A. Given that Tate Modern is the world’s largest modern art gallery.The best way to enter is down the ramp from the west. Tate to Tate Tate to Tate boats (specially designed by Damien Hirst) shuttle between Tate Modern and Tate Britain via the London Eye every forty minutes. PLACES Bankside and Southwark Tate Modern Bankside t 020/7887 8008. while providing wonderfully light and spacious galleries to show off the Tate’s vast collection of international twentieth-century art. for an extra £1. cost £4. preferring to group works TOW ST KATH ARINE’S WAY ER EATING & DRINKING TH A ME S ST Anchor 1 George Inn 3 Royal Oak 6 Delfina 7 Monmouth Tentazioni 8 Fina Estampa 4 Coffee Co. display the permanent collection. an audioguide). MOR GAN ’S LA S TA IN E RS T WES TON ST O TO TOW ER BR ID GE NE T G ROU N DS B R UNSWICK CT ST ROPER LA NE RE ST GUY ST ET TH S 7 W HI TE ’S DR T ST NER TAN UI D L B ER M O N D S EY ST RE ET JA AD SH ET JA C OB S RE LE Y AMES O LA S N O W S F I E L D S W E S TON EE O ST FO RE ET CU CRU RL CIFI E X L AN T R FA BE IR TH T ST RE ET MA GU IRE BAR EW City Hall Y Britain at War Museum S S T London Bridge T R E T H Station AGDALEN M ST 4 E T O M A S ST RE ET EET STR EY NDS MO BER ST L E WE T E GR N GLIS OU H NDS R B R BR IDG EL .50. level 4 is used for fee-paying temporary exhibitions. Daily 10am–6pm. you need to devote the best part of a day to do it justice – or be very selective. mindblowing installation. and take the escalator to level 3. usually used to display one huge. The curators have eschewed the usual chronological approach through the “isms”.147 busy enjoying the spectacular views across to St Paul’s Cathedral and Tate Modern to notice.tate.org. w www.
Mutt”. Although the displays change every six months or so. abstract artists like Mondrian. £8 Seriously dwarfed by the Tate Modern. the theatre puts on plays (mid-Sept to mid-May only) by Shakespeare and his contemporaries. originally destined for a posh restaurant in New York. or visit the Globe’s pricey but stylish exhibition.30–4pm. History/Memory/Society. entitled Fountain and signed “R. with his shamanistic wax and furs. Surrealists such as Dalí. Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre Bankside t 020/7902 1400 w www. Still Life/ Object/Real Life. the Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre is an equally spectacular reconstruction of the polygonal playhouse where most of the Bard’s later works were first performed. and Pop supremos Warhol and Lichtenstein. you’re still pretty much guaranteed to see at least some works by Monet and Bonnard.148 Bankside and Southwark PLACES TATE MODERN together thematically: Landscape/Matter/ Environment. also have their own shrine-like room in the heart of the collection. It begins by detailing the long campaign by the late American actor Sam Wanamaker to have the Globe rebuilt. these include Francis Bacon. and Joseph Beuys.shakespeares-globe. and Nude/Action/Body. using only natural light and the minimum of scenery. though the early twentiethcentury canvases. Mark Rothko’s abstract “Seagram Murals”. Yves Klein’s totally blue paintings and Carl André’s trademark piles of bricks.org.There are also seminal pieces such as a replica of Duchamp’s urinal. Bridget Riley and Pollock. but Contents Places .To get to see inside the building. On the whole this works very well. do struggle when made to compete with contemporary installations. in their gilded frames. Sporting the first new thatched roof in central London since the 1666 Great Fire. you must either attend a performance. Cubist pioneers Picasso and Braque. And such is the space here that several artists get whole rooms to themselves. Daily: May–Sept 9am–noon & 12. whose anguished paintings still have the ability to shock. Oct–April 10am–5pm.
£2. £4. the Golden Hinde was launched in 1973.uk. which whizzes through Southwark’s history at breakneck speed. so it’s worth paying the little bit extra and pre-booking a tour.Visitors to the exhibition also get taken on an informative guided tour round the theatre itself. when you can only visit the exhibition (for a reduced fee).30am–5pm. Cathedral St t 0870/011 8700. it transforms itself into a small foodie haven. There’s been a thriving market hereabouts since medieval times.75. but the cathedral contains numerous interesting monuments. Above the memorial is a stained-glass window featuring a whole cast of characters from the plays. to say the least. Guides clad in period garb show you the ropes.org /cathedral. Borough Market 8 Southwark St w www.uk. Mon–Sat 10am–6pm.The ship is surprisingly small and. though.50. Southwark Cathedral gained its cathedral status in 1905.You can happily skip the new multimedia exhibition (£3) by the bookshop. hazelnut-shell and daub used to build the theatre. Phone for opening hours.dswark. only the choir and Old Operating Theatre and Herb Garret is by far the most educational – and strangest – of Southwark’s museums.co. w www. separated by a tall and beautiful stone Tudor screen. it’s as stomach-churning as the Contents Places . Sun 11am–5pm.org. from a thirteenth-century oak effigy of a knight to an early twentiethcentury memorial to Shakespeare (his brother is buried here). so to speak. Southwark Cathedral London Bridge w www. and circumnavigated the world for some twenty years before eventually settling permanently in Southwark. must have been cramped. retrochoir now remain.boroughmarket .The nave was entirely rebuilt in the nineteenth century. and demonstrate activities such as firing a cannon or using the ship’s toilet. An exact replica of the galleon in which Francis Drake sailed around the world from 1577 to 1580. Fri noon–6pm. prepare your own edition of Shakespeare. Built as the Old Operating Theatre. Daily 10.There’s a lack of interpretive panels. You can have a virtual “play” on medieval instruments such as the crumhorn or sackbut. with a crew of eighty-plus. except in the afternoons during the summer season. and feel the thatch. Sat 9am–4pm. and the general public turn up in droves to sample the produce on the gourmet stalls and in the nearby shops. the present Borough Market is one of the few wholesale fruit and vegetable markets in London still trading under its original Victorian wrought-iron shed. At the weekends. with guided tour £3. Free. The medieval Augustinian priory church of St Mary Overie.149 it’s the imaginative hands-on exhibits that really hit the spot. Of the original thirteenth-century church. Squeezed beneath the railway arches between the High Street and the cathedral. Museum and Herb Garret 9a St Thomas’s St w www. PLACES Bankside and Southwark Golden Hinde St Mary Overie Dock.org.uk. and despite being entirely gore-free. they’re thought to be the oldest Gothic structures left in London.thegarret .goldenhinde .
Daily: March to mid-July & Sep–Oct 10am–5. head for Winston Churchill’s Britain at War. £7. designed in 1821 “in the round”. £6.Visitors are herded into a court room. The life-sized waxwork tableaux inside include a man being hung.co. followed by the “Great Fire of London”.The surgeons had to concentrate on speed and accuracy (most amputations took less than a minute). Bankside and Southwark PLACES London Dungeon 28–34 Tooley St w www. but there was still a thirty-percent mortality rate.com. SOUTHWARK CATHEDRAL 11. mid-July to Aug 9. Daily: March–Oct 10am–6pm. HMS Belfast Morgan’s Lane.150 London Dungeon (see below). and forced to endure the “Jack the Ripper Experience”. drawn and quartered and one being boiled alive.britainatwar . so that students (and members of high society) could view the proceedings. Oct–March 10am–4. Young Britain at War Museum 64–66 Tooley St w www.iwm . hear the chilling sound of the V1 “doodlebugs” and tune in to contemporary radio broadcasts. and many more from bacterial infection. from ration books to babies’ gasmasks.uk.30am–7. with many patients simply dying of shock.org. For teenagers and the credulous probably get the most out of the an illuminating insight into London’s stiff-upper-lip mentality during the World War II Blitz. about which very little was known. condemned to the “River of Death” boat ride. An SHAKESPEARE WINDOW.30am–5pm. where you’ll find hundreds of fascinating wartime artefacts.30pm. armed with six torpedoes and Contents Places . in which you experience the heat and the smell of the plague-ridden city. Nov–Feb 10.thedungeons .550-ton Royal Navy cruiser. The final set-piece is a walk through the chaos of a justbombed street. which houses an old hospital apothecary with displays explaining the painful truth about pre-anaesthetic operations. Tooley St w www. while the general hysteria is boosted by actors dressed as top-hatted Victorian vampires pouncing out of the darkness. £12.uk. literally like a theatre.These took place in the adjacent women’s operating theatre. ever-popular London Dungeon.You can sit in darkness in an Anderson shelter.95. an exploitative trawl through post-mortem photos and wax mock-ups of the victims.30pm. Nov–Feb 10am–5pm. Visitors climb up to the attic of a former church tower. before walking through a revolving “tunnel of flames”.30pm.50. Note that you can avoid the inevitable queues by pre-buying tickets online. Daily: April–Sept 10am–5.30pm.
Free. Headquarters for the Greater London Authority and the Mayor of London. the stylish Contents Places . Daily 10am–5.uk. in the adjacent Life at Sea room. Design Museum Butler’s Wharf. Small. and has been permanently moored on the Thames since being decommissioned in 1971.The museum has nothing on permanent display. On certain weekends. PLACES Bankside and Southwark HMS BELFAST City Hall The Queen’s Walk w www. Mon–Fri 8am–8pm.net. and the Pont de la Tour. movements or single products. Closed Sat & Sun. Shops Butlers Wharf Gastrodome 36d & 36e Shad Thames. Among the clutch of chi-chi emporia here. from classic cars to Tupperware. which could accommodate a crew of over nine hundred. Bearing a striking resemblance to a giant car headlight. HMS Belfast saw action both in the Barents Sea during World War II and in the Korean War.The most enjoyable aspect of a visit is exploring the Belfast’s maze of cabins and scrambling up and down the vertiginous ladders of the ship’s seven confusing decks. but instead hosts a series of temporary exhibitions (up to four at any one time) on important designers. head for the Exhibition Flat in Zone 5. it’s a “green” building that uses a quarter of the energy a highspecification office would normally use.gov. £6.151 six-inch guns with a range of over fourteen miles.org. very busy conversion of an old 1950s riverside warehouse. from where there’s a great view over the Thames. A Bauhaus-like Cafés El Vergel 8 Lant St w elvergel.45pm. stocking a beautifully presented and mouthwatering range of oils. look out for the Oil & Spice Shop. white edifice of the Design Museum is the perfect showcase for mass-produced industrial design. you can practise your morse code and knots and listen to accounts of naval life on board.london . 28 Shad Thames w www. vinegars and spices.serversure.Visitors are welcome to stroll around and watch the London Assembly proceedings from the second floor. it’s also possible to visit “London’s Living Room” on the ninth floor.designmuseum. If you want to know more about the ship’s history. the centrepiece of the redevelopment near Tower Bridge is Norman Foster’s startling glass-encased City Hall. offering an excellent range of deli fare.
Tentazioni 2 Mill St t 020/7237 1100. London’s Bankside and Southwark PLACES only Peruvian restaurant. rich flavours. & Sun.delfina. Restaurants Delfina Studio Café 50 Bermondsey St t 020/7357 0244. adjunct to the Delfina art gallery houses a serious (lunchtime-only) restaurant. and rosemary roasted pumpkin or monkfish stifado for mains (£10-plus). pork.152 Fina Estampa 150 Tooley St t 020/7403 1342. and opts simply for serving real ales from Lewes in Sussex. while mains (£10 or more) range from chicken in coriander to carapulcra (dried potatoes. this George Inn 77 Borough High St. busy DESIGN MUSEUM weekday café which does all the usual lunchtime takeaways. Italian restaurant serving highquality peasant fare with strong.The traditional menu emphasizes seafood. with a warren of small wood-panelled rooms and exposed beams. tacos. or you can try the splendid five-course regional menu (£36). chicken and cassava).org.uk. starters include marinated white fish with sweet potatoes (£5 and upwards). tostadas and tortillas.tentazioni. Starters (£8–10) can be turned into main courses (£12–20).uk. as well as Latin American specialities: empanadas. Perfect pit stop in between perusing the Borough Market stalls. this is a good bet for alfresco drinking by the river. Small. as well as offering moist and succulent cakes and pastries. Monmouth Coffee Company 2 Park St. Closed Sat lunch & Sun. lovingly restored Victorian pub that eschews jukeboxes and one-armed bandits. Despite its name. Still looking much as it did when it was first built in 1770.The cooking is superb: try carrotchilli blini or Asian braised pigeon for starters (around £5). Contents Places .co. and very good it is too. dating from the seventeenth century and now owned by the National Trust. expect lots of wonky flooring. Closed Sat & Sun. Closed Sat & Sun. Royal Oak 44 Tabard St.This place takes its coffee seriously. London’s only surviving coaching inn. w www. Closed Mon & Sat lunch. half-timbering and a good range of real ales. Pubs Anchor 34 Park St. Beautiful. w www.
Tues–Sun 11am–5pm. ROLLERBLADERS. Standing in the midst of one of London’s busiest traffic interchanges.english-heritage. van Dyck. more than twice life-size. £4.org. much of which used to belong to the King of Spain. cross the park on horseback or mountain bike. fish. Wed–Sun: April–Sept 10am–6pm.org. In between. sunbathe or mess about in boats on the Serpentine. the highlight here is the art collection. A standard Neoclassical triumphal arch. Wellington Museum.The famous. £2.uk. where the exterior balconies offer a bird’seye view of the swirling traffic. Princess Diana’s home until her death. later replaced by Peace driving a four-horse chariot. Apsley House has housed the Wellington Museum since 1952.50. are works by de Hooch. swim. Rubens and Murillo. covers a distance of two miles from Oxford Street in the northeast to Kensington Palace in the southwest. Kensington Gardens.apsleyhouse . which gets mobbed on summer weekends with rollerbladers. Nov–March 10am–4pm. KENSINGTON GARDENS Contents Places . PLACES Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens Wellington Arch Hyde Park Corner wwww . you can view an informative exhibition on London’s outdoor sculpture and take a lift to the top of the monument. or view the latest in modern art at the Serpentine Gallery. Hyde Park. people jog. Goya. Apsley House 149 Piccadilly w www. Among the best pieces. Inside. it was originally topped by an equestrian statue of the Duke himself. The former London residence of the “Iron Duke”. nude statue of Napoleon by Antonio Canova stands at the foot of the main staircase. displayed in the Waterloo Gallery on the first floor.153 Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens Most visitors are amazed at how green and pleasant so much of London’s centre is. together with its westerly extension. However unless you’re a keen fan of the Duke (or the building’s architect.Wellington Arch was erected in 1828 to commemorate Wellington’s victories in the Napoleonic Wars. Velázquez. Kensington Palace sits at the more fashionable end of the park. Benjamin Wyatt). Oct 10am–5pm.50.uk.
E OF P DUK GT O N LIN WE L © Crown copyright . ENNISMORE GS RI MEWS A PRINCE CONSORT RO AD N D G AT E Contents W ES Italian Gardens PA L A C E ACE TON PAL A D B R O Diana Memorial Playground H y d e BROOK UPPER GR O S V E NO R GA Peter Pan STR EET CU LRO SS OS VE UP PE R GR NO R ST NORTH RIDE T CARRIAGE DRIVE TERRAC RDENS ng The Lo BR UN SW S QUAR E GARDEN K e n s i n g t o n A D B R O MAYFAIR WS RE EV ES ME S 1 EN ICK GA RD P a r k AD AM ’S RO W E P A R P Wa MOUNT T STREE S A K te r R Places Th I N E T S T R E Kensington Palace Round Pond G a r d e n s K EN S S E L K W A HOLLAND ST GATE SOUTH T S TR E E HI LL PALACE ST RE ET Serpentine Gallery R P E N K E N S I N SI N GT O N W YOUNG ST COU R T E C U R ZO N S T R E E T MARKET M. . ST MA RGAR LA. SLOANE ST VICT ORI LAUNCEST A ON PLACE BR KINNERTON ST QUEEN ’S GATE TERRAC E ENNISMORE GS MONTPELIER SQUARE TREVOR SQ. Wellington Arch 2 LOWNDES SQUARE OR EN . NC 154 INVERNESS TERRACE CLARENDON PL. PL. IVE IA STREET AUDLEY SOUTH RR GREEN U RC O N CH E INGT VIC AR AG High Street Kensington e S er T CA K W A L T NU E AVE pen E ES Diana Fountain Lido R O T T E N R O tine W KEN SIN H IG H S T G TO N K EN H ST R O A D DEA NER Y ST KEN SING TON CT ROA D O N GOR E DE VER E GA RD EN S P A L AC E G AT E K HYDE PK GAR DENS R VENO G RO S STANFO RD ROAD EXHIBI T I O N R O AD R U T LA TREVOR ST TR EV OR PLACE GR O WILTON PL. STREET WS WOODS ME B A Y S W A T E R R O A D RE MARBL E A RCH F O R D S T R E E T MARBLE O X ARCH W RTH RO STREET N NE UR KENSING DR E N N E L A L A K WAVE RTON ST GE PALAC YORK HO. QUEEN ’S GATE PRINCE’S GARDENS RAPHAEL ST RD ON PT L. ET’ Q U E E N ’ S G AT E EATING & DRINKING Orangery COTTES 1 M GARDEN ORE Grenadier S2 GR O. ERR HYDE PARK GARDENS ET OP NH STA L M B E R L A N D G AT E QUEENSWAY NO P A R K B A Y S W A T E R R O A D LANCASTER GATE Speakers’ Corner GREEN LEE S PL. SV CR CO N ST IT UT HI LL IO N PL. ST T N S 0 200 yds K ENSI N G T O N GORE Apsley House D R I V E N EW O U T K ENSINGTO N ROA H D KEN S I N R I D E (Wellington Museum) HYDE PA JAY MEWS VIC TO Royal Albert Hall GORE ON GT ST ALBA N GT SIN EN KNIGHTSBRIDGE R K CORNER PIC CA D IL LY K N I G H KNIGHTSBRIDGE T S B R HYDE PARK I D G E IGHTS B R I D G E K N CORNER WILTON PL.Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens PLACES ORCHARD ST Bayswater A GW D ED OA R HYDE PARK ST O STB WE ST ALBION ST PE STANHO PL. TF O R D HER G Y ST DERR S C A R R I A G E RI DE T O N ST K DOW Albert Memorial OL DP S KENSINGTON SQUARE R O A D K LA NEW ACHILL WAY E BRIC . OM KE LS O PL . LA Q U E E N S WAY PORCH ESTER TERRA CE PETERSBURGH PLACE PALACE CT LEINSTER TERRACE ORME CT OSSINGTON ST HIL NOT TI NG GAT E CU NORTH CARRIAGE DRIVE R I D E N O R T H CLANRICARDE GARDENS LINDEN GARDEN S TER LANCAS G ATE ASTE R TERR .
£4 per hour) from the boathouse on the north bank. erected in 1828 as a triumphal entry to Buckingham Palace but now stranded on a ferociously busy traffic island at the west end of Oxford Street. Kensington Gardens w www.gov. the city’s main public execution spot until 1783. For most of the time.uk. It narrows until it reaches a most unlikely sight in an English park: the Italian Gardens. £3) is situated on the south bank.The lake’s popular Lido (June–Aug daily 10am–6pm. the park is simply a lazy leisure ground – a wonderful open space which allows you to lose all sight of the city beyond a few persistent tower blocks.gov.The best-loved of Kensington Gardens’ outdoor monuments is to Peter Pan. The more tranquil.This is the most historically charged spot in Hyde Park. from which paths lead past pretty flower gardens towards the curvaceous lake of the Serpentine. Daily 6am–dusk. a group of four fountains laid out symmetrically in front of a pumphouse disguised in the form of an Italianate loggia. as it marks the site of Tyburn gallows. and rowboats and pedalos can be rented (March–Oct daily 10am–6.uk. duels and the Great Exhibition of 1851 are just some of the public events that have been staged in Hyde Park.royalparks. Daily 5am–midnight.royalparks. leafier half of Hyde Park. Hangings. featuring an assembly of soapbox orators. the upper section of the Serpentine and by far the prettiest section of the lake. A more immediately appealing approach is to enter from the southeast around Hyde Park Corner. however. religious extremists and hecklers. muggings.155 PLACES Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens WELLINGTON ARCH Hyde Park w www. It’s also the location of Speakers’ Corner.30pm or dusk. a peculiarly English Sunday tradition. the fictional Contents Places . Kensington Gardens is home to Long Water. which remains a popular rallying point for political demonstrations. At the treeless northeastern corner is Marble Arch.
High Gothic Albert Memorial is as much a hymn to the glorious achievements of Britain as to its subject. birds and mice.serpentinegallery. and the various other allegorical sculptures dotted about the memorial. the richly decorated. a splendid iron-and-glass-domed concert hall. from pop concerts to sumo wrestling. Royal Albert Hall Kensington Gore t 020/7589 8212. w www.The Contents Places . the statue depicts Peter presiding over a pedestal crowded with fairies. and it was here that he met the five pretty. Barrie. The Serpentine Gallery was built as a tearoom in 1908 because the park authorities thought “poorer visitors” might cause trouble if left without refreshments. join one of the weekly guided tours (Sun 2 & 3pm. J. Daily 10am–6pm.with a reputation for lively.215). controversial exhibitions. it also annually commissions world- profits of the Great Exhibition were used to buy a large tract of land south of the park. the Henry Wood Promenade Concerts or Proms (see p. As well as hosting a variety of events throughout the year. Recently restored to his former gilded glory. Paid for by Barrie himself and erected in secret during the night in 1912. Free. and whose guardian he eventually became.The building has served as an art gallery since the 1960s. squirrels. were the inspiration for the book’s “Lost Boys”.156 renowned architects to design a temporary pavilion for its summer-only tea-house extension. Erected in 1876. The Serpentine Gallery Kensington Gardens w www. and to build the vast Royal Albert Hall. who wore “blue blouses and bright red tam o’shanters”.50).com. £3. upper-class Llewellyn Davies boys. clutching a catalogue for the Great Exhibition that he helped to organize. If you want to learn more about the 169 life-sized depictions of long-gone artists (all men) around the pediment.The book’s author. terracotta and marble that became the hallmark of South Kensington architecture. with an exterior of red brick.The results have been adventurous and exciting.M. ranging from Zaha Hadid’s giant marquee to Toyo Ito’s partially opaque enclosed box.royalalberthall. PETER PAN STATUE character who enters London along the Serpentine in the eponymous tale. rabbits.org. Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens PLACES Albert Memorial Kensington Gardens. Albert occupies the central canopy. used to walk his dog in Kensington Gardens. the hall is the venue for Europe’s most democratic music festival. which take place every night from July to September. Queen Victoria’s husband (who died of typhoid in 1861).
org. patriotic last night. mementos. Kensington Gardens.The highlights are the trompe l’oeil ceiling paintings by William Kent.Tintoretto. As befits a play area dedicated to the ALBERT HALL FACADE Contents Places . £10. you also get to see the tastelessly decorated rooms in which the future Queen Victoria spent her unhappy childhood. are closed to the public. but the Proms are best known for the flag-waving.hrp. Bought by William and Mary in 1689. which kids can clamber all over. literally millions of flowers. as well as several of the Queen’s. En route. and offering great cakes as well as savoury tarts. Diana’s former apartments. In the weeks following Diana’s death. among others. and then the sparsely furnished state apartments. It was. Nov–Feb 10am–5pm. PLACES Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens Kensington Palace Kensington Gardens w www . the official London residence of both Charles and Di until the couple formally separated and Charles moved to St James’s Palace.uk.The original pewter bar survives. Diana Memorial Playground Kensington Gardens. and the Bloody Marys are very special. the modestly proportioned Jacobean brick mansion of Kensington Palace was the chief royal residence for the next fifty years. The centrepiece is a sailing ship sunk into sand. Cafés The Orangery Kensington Palace. March–Oct daily 10am–6pm.50. Diana is also due to be commemorated by a giant oval fountain to the south of the Serpentine.157 classical concerts are top-class and standing-room tickets go for as little as £3. Wellington’s local (his horse-block survives outside) and his former officers’ mess too. this is no ordinary playground. as it’s fondly known in royal circles. is best known today as the place where Princess Diana lived from her marriage until her death in 1997. KP. poems and gifts were deposited at the gates to the south of the palace. particularly those in the Cupola Room. originally built for Queen Anne as a summer dining room. where various minor royals still live. scheduled to be unveiled in autumn 2004. and gets so popular that entry numbers have to be limited in the height of summer. and the paintings in the King’s Gallery by. Instead. Very swish café in a brilliant-white orangery. elsewhere there’s paving gongs and other groovy playthings. in fact. Pubs Grenadier 18 Wilton Row. guided tours take in some of the frocks worn by Diana. memory of the Princess of Wales.
From the Swinging Sixties and even up to the Punk era.158 South Kensington.50pm.uk.This disparity is the result of a genuine conundrum. Mon–Sat 10am–5. Free. where a team of animatronic deinonychi feast on a half-dead tenontosaurus. Natural History Museum Cromwell Rd t 020/7942 5000. it’s just another wealthy west London suburb. whose vast Central Hall is dominated by an 85ft-long plaster cast of a Diplodocus skeleton. though. these days.nhm. with truly imaginative exhibits peppered amongst others little changed since the building opened in 1881. however.50pm. the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea is particularly well-to-do in the area south of Hyde Park.ac. Alfred Waterhouse’s purpose-built mockRomanesque colossus ensures the Natural History Museum’s status as London’s most NATURAL HISTORY MUSUEM handsome museum. The main entrance leads to the Life Galleries. are a bit of a mishmash. the popular tourist attractions lie in South Kensington. the Mammals Contents Places . Known popularly as the “Tiara Triangle”. Sun 11am–5. which features a live colony of leaf-cutter ants.The contents. With its 675-foot terracotta facade. Other child-friendly sections include the Creepy-Crawlies Room. Chelsea had a slightly bohemian pedigree. Knightsbridge and Chelsea London’s wealthiest district. whose most famous specimen was Princess Diana herself. the sons and daughters of the wealthy. though – the collections are as much an important resource for serious zoologists as they are a popular attraction. the moneyed feel here is evident in the flash shops and swanky bars as well as the plush houses and apartments. w www.To one side. you’ll find the Dinosaur gallery. Aside from the shops around Harrods in Knightsbridge. famous only as the spiritual home of Sloanes. Knightsbridge and Chelsea PLACES South Kensington. where three of London’s top museums stand side by side.
PL N TO . Science Museum Exhibition Rd t 0870/870 4868. RO OE C PLA E GS ET Natural History Museum CROMWELL PL. E A V CH TE ES .Visitors can also sign up for a free 35minute guided tour (every 30min. ST CH UR CH IST HR C RD ’S R TE R. 1 ’S AN OM YE P O N T S T CHES H . For a visually exciting romp through evolution. Keen to dispel the enduring image of such . CLABON MEWS ST MOORE LE NN OX ST S HALSEY GS G A R DEN LIN T W S N ST RA GTO T OVIN SKER S W HA T ST RO FIRS M S T R E E T EA TO N S TREE T C AM R . filling seven floors with items drawn from every conceivable area of science. ENN I S M GARDEN S S IL GS RE GS MEW S IN LK HA IMPERIAL COLLEGE ROAD Brompton Oratory 4 Rigby & Peller B Harrods HA N CR NS HA E S L O A N ES C E NT LK B OM TC T MO S O BELGRAVE SQUARE EL AP CH WK PLACES South Kensington. Victoria & Albert Museum TO R N 3 O A D EA UC HA 2 MP P L. including space travel.SOUTH CARRIAG E ROAD EN ROW Hyde Park KI N N E RTON S T 159Hou R Royal Albert Hall SING KE MONTP ELI ER RUTLAND GATE RUTLAND G ATE N PRINCE CONSORT ROAD PRINCE’S ENNISMORE KNIGHTSBRIDGE EET ST R GROS V CRESENO . E. SQ SQ E SU . LG PL BE ES ND W LO ST VE L RA . ST DE R NS DO VE 10 F U L CHELSEA SQ. PL VE RA . chemistry. OW NE R CHEY L Royal Hospital H 11 Y R O WORLD’S END CH 12 C H EYN E LK WA C S E A H E L T M E N A N K E M B Chelsea Physic Garden E WAL K EYN SEA TER B AT ID G E BR Chelsea Old Church mes Tha R er iv 0 300 yds PA R TE R KGA OAD EATING & DRINKING Bibendum Oyster House 6 Peace Battersea Blenheim Pagoda 7 Bunch of Grapes 3 Park Chelsea Kitchen 9 Cross Keys 12 Daquise 5 EB N & Tolkien MA NOR P IT UR K RD PAR ELM CARLYLE SQ. telecommunications. WF FL JU BI SHA ST RE ET OA N T R ASTELL ST PL.sciencemuseum. O R RD LLO MA ST I S O K A Vivienne Westwood CHE L SE A UP. ON SQ PELH 6 SL AY O DE NY ER N TO DR .Tours Contents A Y G DN EY S NE ST LUKE’S ST M LK KHA WA MAR ET SQ. R O A D P A V I L I O N CADOGAN SQ. head for the Earth Galleries. TON GO R L RAPHAE ST R I D G E K N I G H T S B Harvey HYDE PARK TREV OR PL. and the spectacular display of gems and crystals in the Earth’s Treasury. and to talk to the museum’s scientists. EA RR TE ON SL O ST NS W LO W E R S L SY UR BO HOL B EI N gallery with its life-size model of a blue whale. R A U RE UA . IX S ON D W LOW OR TH Y GS ST Q U E E N ’ S G AT E NLE N CRES. popular sections include the slightly tasteless Kobe earthquake simulator. CADOGAN T SQUARE ER S I LN E O AT N SQ RDE GA S OUT H K E NS I NGT ON PLA CE TR NS SY G S GA C E M ONS SLOANE DO E N CA PLA ST SQUARE V TT D EN UE OR CO LF D’S AY CU GS EA O. A D Burton’s Court GE R OA D H A M D O L CAL E ST R E E T 7 EB O D A SM L YA U E RO EN AV ST TEN BRIT PIM H LICO 8 AG O. CHESHAM S T ST ES CADOGAN LANE ND CADOGAN PLACE HANS PL. T HAR OR TRE S C DN ST D S RA KHAM IELD OO MAR L E E P L . computing. FIELD N L R BLOOM .A BAG TERR AN S S T R UR A R O AD EB UR Y SQ . BE P GLE RD SA NRE MA CH IT St Mary C H U R C H H EL SE ST R ns GE de ID ar BR A hG lag ne Ra RE ET OAK TI LEY TE E T R E ST S T ERS NS DANV LTO PAU ARE SQU ST RT FO AU BE OA ST RE D ET STR EET ALBERT BRIDGE AL BE RT WK AN SW R.uk. AL LG W LY BE M. YNE CHE ST R’CE LAW CHELSEA BRIDGE QUEENSTOWN ROAD 11 8 2 4 1 10 Ba BAT TER SEA BRID GE RD Places BR ID GE RO AD © Crown copyright Do allow visitors a closer look at the specimens. UTH TERR. Free.org. which houses more of the museum’s millions of zoological specimens. Nichols W LOWN DES L O SQUA RE HARRIET W A CORNER WILTO We ET RE ST ST E X H I B I T I O N E Bagatelle Boutique Science Museum B R O MP EG ER TO N CROMWELL ROAD Q U E E N ’ S G AT E TER PE STANHO GS HARRINGTON RD R L THURLOE SOUTH THU KENSINGTON THURLOESQ. The Science Museum is undeniably impressive. G S ' Steinberg A L R O Gordon Ramsay Hunan O Fado Racine Star Tavern Vingt-Quatre YB RID N R PA AL KW K L E S II PL. U E D R EH GR HIT W ELYSTAN PLACE A CO N TT A N GA Holy CAD O EE T Trinity BELGRAVIA Royal Court SLOANE SQUARE EA TO N EA N N TO AT O E RR . Daily 10am–6pm. and the walkthrough rainforest in the high-tech Ecology Gallery. Knightsbridge and Chelsea . HO ST R BA STR EET ES US T T E S L. 9 A ON LE ST TEDWORTH SQ. photography and medicine. to see behind the scenes at the labs. SQ E ET AC RE PL ST N AN T CA LU LY S E TH BE IZA EL S. time measurement. w www. S RO AD BA R AD MN ER ON SL OW 5 ST PE LHAM SO W A LT ON S T E OL CRA D PL BR OM P W SLO . PL AM PL A CE S R O A D CADOGAN SQ. book ahead online or on t 020/7942 6128) of the new Darwin Centre.
as well as costume jewellery. In terms South Kensington. go past the info desk and through the Space gallery. the world’s first mass-produced car. w www. Knightsbridge and Chelsea PLACES STEPHENSON’S ROCKET. In the basement. Close by. remains as popular and enjoyable as ever. Daily 10am–5.45pm. as do the Garden and Things galleries.ac. the V&A’s treasures are impossible to survey in a single visit. there’s an entire office interior by Frank Contents Places . geared to appeal to even the most museum-phobic teenager with state-of-the-art interactive computers and an IMAX cinema (tickets £7.50). Victoria & Albert Museum Cromwell Rd t 020 7942 2000. and the world’s largest collection of Indian art outside India. a display of iconic inventions from Robert Stephenson’s Rocket steam train of 1829 to the Ford Model T. filled with copies of European art’s greatest hits. ask at the information desk in the Power Hall for details of the day’s (usually free) events and demonstrations. you can view highlights from the UK’s largest dress collection. Free. aimed squarely at kids. metalwork and photography. To get there.uk. the Science Museum has been busy updating its galleries with interactive displays. First off. Japanese and Korean art. there are galleries devoted to British. Beautifully but haphazardly displayed across a seven-mile. In addition. the Victoria and Albert (popularly known as the V&A) is the greatest museum of applied arts in the world. plus Wed & last Fri of the month until 10pm. meanwhile. seven vast biblical paintings that served as designs for a set of tapestries destined for the Sistine Chapel. the hands-on displays of the Launch Pad. and puts on daily demonstrations to show that not all science teaching has to be deathly dry.160 museums as boring and full of dusty glass cabinets.There’s even a Twentieth-Century Gallery – everything from Bauhaus furniture to Swatch watches – to rival that of the Design Museum (see p. Chinese. with its full-size replica of the Apollo 11 landing craft. four-storey maze of halls and corridors. you come to the surreal Plaster Casts gallery.vam. from Michelangelo’s David to Trajan’s Column from the forum in Rome (sawn in half to make it fit). Floor plans from the information desks can help you decide which areas to concentrate on. to the far side of the Making of the Modern World. Most people will want to head for the new four-floor Wellcome Wing.Wading through the huge collection of European sculpture. SCIENCE MUSEUM of sheer variety and scale. Islamic. glassware. Over in the Henry Cole Wing.150). The most celebrated of the V&A’s exhibits are the Raphael Cartoons.
ranging over vast areas of art. while the pulpit is a superb piece of NeoBaroque from the 1930s. Knightsbridge and Chelsea INDIAN MINIATURE PAINTING.30pm. the church practises “smells and bells” Catholicism.uk. note the high cherub count on the tester. V&A Brompton Oratory Brompton Rd w www. the current 1905 terracotta building. craft and technology.161 Lloyd Wright. As if all this were not enough. and a goodly collection of Rodin sculptures. employs in excess of 3000 staff. Here.harrods. with daily Mass in Latin. The store does. and the pseudohieroglyphs and sphinxes of the Egyptian Hall are particularly striking. Harrods 87–135 Brompton Rd w www. Harrods started out as a familyrun grocery shop in 1849 with a staff of two. and backpacks must be carried in the hand. much of it genuine Italian Baroque.Tourists flock here – it’s thought to be one of the city’s top-ranking tourist attractions – though if you can do without the Harrods carrier bag. the V&A’s temporary shows are among the best in Britain.brompton-oratory .com. a dirty wine-glass used on their last evening along with the engagement ring Dodi allegedly bought for Di the previous day. to the strains of Mahler (and the like). you can buy most of what the shop stocks more cheaply elsewhere. Note that Harrods has a draconian dress code: no shorts or vest T-shirts.30pm. while the Egyptian Escalators whisk you to the first floor “luxury washrooms”. with its exquisite Arts and Crafts tiling. And true to its architecture. Sun 8. where you can splash on free perfume. At the base of the escalators is the Diana and Dodi fountain shrine. An architectural masterpiece created in 1890. more Constable paintings than the Tate. the Food Hall. have a few sections that are architectural sights in their own right: on the ground floor. and. Mon–Sat 10am–7pm. London’s most flamboyant Roman Catholic church. Holy Trinity is Contents Places . PLACES South Kensington. however.The ornate Italianate interior is filled with gilded mosaics and stuffed with sculpture. Holy Trinity Church Sloane Square. owned by the bête noire of the Establishment. Mon–Sat 8.30am–5. Brompton Oratory was completed in 1886 and modelled on the Gesù church in Rome. a collection of sixteenth-century portrait miniatures. Mohammed Al Fayed.org.30am–1. preserved in a glass pyramid. you can contemplate photos of the illfated couple. London’s most famous department store.
Claims to have London’s largest collection of vintage and retro gear and accessories. Sun 2–6pm. Rigby & Peller 2 Hans Rd t 020/7589 9293.30pm on the last Saturday of the month. when every flash Harry in town parades his customized motor. Chelsea Physic Garden is a charming little inner-city escape. April–Oct Wed noon–5pm. and even offering confession. Original outlet of the queen of punk fashion. w www. filled with the smell of incense and statues of Mary.rigbyandpeller. though nowadays on the Battersea side of the Chelsea Bridge. a vast.chelseaphysicgarden.com. Old-fashioned Polish café serving home- Contents Places . which will explain the fascinating history of the place. Steinberg & Tolkien 193 King’s Rd t 020/7376 3660.co. with terse Latinate labels and strictly regimented beds. w www.harveynichols. which lists the month’s most interesting flowers and shrubs.162 probably the finest Arts and Crafts church in London. Her trademark style is madly eccentric English. but there’s less flamboyant stuff. wwww. too. wait for an assistant and order your very own custom-made bra. The South Kensington. this old-fashioned store stocks a wide range of lingerie and swimwear for all shapes and sizes – take ticket. department store made famous by the TV sitcom Absolutely Fabulous continues to stay ahead of the crowd. it’s the second oldest botanic garden in the country and remains an old-fashioned place. Hidden from the road by a high wall. boutiques (and antiques) are still what King’s Road is all about. and try to time your visit with one of the free guided tours (phone t 020/7352 5646 for times). which says a lot for the quality of the stock. Chelsea Physic Garden Royal Hospital Rd w www . Closed Sun.uk. Vivienne Westwood 430 King’s Rd t020/7352 6551. £4.The east window is the most glorious of the furnishings. from its groundfloor cosmetics department to the irresistible goodies in its fifth-floor food hall.The “Saturday Parade” of fashion victims is not what it used to be. spag bol and the like.viviennewestwood. A branch of the ubiquitous Stockpot. clothing is displayed by designer. Pick up a plan. Corsetières to HM the Queen. Daquise 20 Thurloe St. still takes place at 8.com. Holy Trinity is very High Church. 48panel extravaganza designed by Edward Burne-Jones. and the largest ever made by Morris & Co.co.uk. Knightsbridge and Chelsea PLACES King’s Road Chelsea’s main artery. Cafés Chelsea Kitchen 98 King’s Rd. King’s Road achieved household fame as the unofficial catwalk of the Swinging Sixties and of the hippie and punk eras. experts in budget Anglo-Italian stomachfillers in the form of steaks. And the traditional “Chelsea Cruise”. Shops Harvey Nichols 109–125 Knightsbridge t 020/7235 5000. but posey cafés. Founded in 1673.
snug and popular pub. show what he can do. Vingt-Quatre 325 Fulham Rd. Gordon Cross Keys 1 Lawrence St. but that’s half the enjoyment. tea and cakes.com. This long-established Portuguese restaurant can get rowdy. while an entire plateau de fruits de mer will set you back nearly £30. PLACES South Kensington. Closed Sat & Sun. Mr Peng. This glorious tiled former Pubs Blenheim 27 Cale St. this is a friendly. villagey Chelsea. Gordon Ramsay 68–69 Royal Hospital Rd t 020/7352 4441.uk. Hunan 51 Pimlico Rd t 020/7730 5712. Closed Sun. Half a dozen oysters start at £7. garage. a relative of Sichuan cuisine. with lots of lovely wood. Probably England’s only restaurant serving Hunan food. fixed-price à la carte menus start at £65. built in 1911. though you have to book ahead to eat here. with fine Fuller’s beers and classy food. and friendly service. Racine 239 Brompton Rd t 020/7584 4477. Booking is imperative. centre of wealthy. Knightsbridge and Chelsea Restaurants Bibendum Oyster House Michelin House. depending on the time of day. 81 Fulham Rd t 020/7589 1480. Set lunches start at £35. nostalgic dishes from the glory days of French cooking. is the perfect place for a post-museum pint. Bunch of Grapes 207 Brompton Rd. Although an allnight café. this place is more quality brasserie than greasy spoon – and so are the prices. w www. Tucked away in the Ramsay’s Chelsea restaurant is a class act through and through.gordonramsay. an unusual. set lunches hover around £15.163 cooked meals or simple coffee.50. quiet and convivial two-storey mews pub. delicious. w www. is one of the best places to eat shellfish in London.co. what with the live fado ballads and the family parties. Familiar. This popular High Victorian pub. Star Tavern 6 Belgrave Mews West. complete with snob screens.bibendum . Large Georgian pub. O Fado 45–50 Beauchamp Place t 020/7589 3002. inexpensive menu and excellent Badger beers. Book in advance. BIBENDUM OYSTER HOUSE Contents Places . Starters are well under £10 and main courses only just over. Smart. Most people opt for the £30 “leave-it-to-us feast” which lets the chef.
in compensation.164 High Street Kensington to Notting Hill PLACES High Street Kensington to Notting Hill Kensington High Street – better known as High Street Ken – is a busy shopping district with all the major UK chains represented. but gentrification has changed them immeasurably over the last forty years. HOLLAND PARK Contents Places . as well as vestiges of the African-Caribbean community who initiated – and still run – Carnival. with a reputation as dens of vice and crime. and is decorated with Saracen tiles. it will be sincerity”. yet retains a strong Moroccan and Portuguese presence. Holland Park also boasts several formal areas. Notting Hill and adjoining Bayswater. President of the Royal Academy and the only artist ever to be made a peer (albeit on his deathbed). Leighton House 12 Holland Park Rd w www. Mon & Wed–Sun 11am–5. Based on the banqueting hall of a Moorish palace in Palermo. Now the area is rammed solid with trendy – but wealthy – media folk. the artist opined before construction commenced in the 1860s.uk/leightonhousemuseum. tucked away in the peaceful surrounding streets of white stucco mansions. where evening concerts are held in Leighton’s vast studio (call t 020/7602 3316).30pm. were slum areas for many years. such as the Japanese-style Kyoto HOLLAND HOUSE. Cultural diversion is at hand. in Holland Park and the exotically decorated Leighton House. Skylights brighten the upper floor.The other rooms are less spectacular but.gov. “It will be opulence. though. are hung with excellent paintings by Lord Leighton and his Pre-Raphaelite friends Edward Burne-Jones. to the north. Leighton House was built by the architect George Aitchison for Frederic Leighton.rbkc . the city’s giant August Bank Holiday street party. Free. now replete with woodland and playing fields. Lawrence Alma-Tadema and John Everett Millais. Holland Park The leafy former grounds of the Jacobean Holland House.The big attraction is its domed Arab Hall. it has a central black marble fountain. gilded mosaics and latticework drawn from all over the Islamic world.
free). Garden Ballroom and Ice House. D CT Commonwealth Institute R RO AD KENSI NS DE AR N G E RD ISO K DD ROO A GB LIN D BO N SO MIL L N R K M CH IDG PA ad EPS TO ILL WV EV I AS EL LL AS LATIMER ROAD OA WA LM E R R EN HE IM CR IN ESC ENT C P o r to CR ES ENT CO LV ILL SIN ARTESIAN RD Flow Gallery RD U R N E S T B O W E 14 13 1211 ROAD E G R O V A Y Q U E E N S W IN V E R N E S GTO be llo O GR KE RO DB A N OW N LA SD H BIG DEN RD TO FRES N BAYSWAT E R .30pm. TERR FIELD SHEF ST 16 Notting Hill Farmers’ Market KENSIN E GA PALAC TE HILLGA Kensington Gardens OA D TH E BR KENSINGTO GTON RDEN CAM PAL. small-scale art gallery (daily 11am–7pm. Ro CLA B M PE S TERRACE SI RD A EC S K EN ING TO N ke t RI C R DG E ES . Thurs 8am–1pm. which have been converted into a café. PL DAWSON St Sophia OW ROAD REN R OA D DON A D R RO A D PEMBRIDGE SQUARE MOS C D BAYSWATER WES OSS T CR ROUT E ROA ST ANNE VE NOTTING HILL GATE 15 D QUEENSWAY B A Y SW A T E R R O A D ’S ROAD KE RO AD NO T T I N G RD LEIGH HILLS AT E HI LL G U E E N A V P A N PL . Fri & Sat 8am–6. Peppered with modern sculptures. E P A R 5 ROA WESTB OURN E PK VI LLAS O A D D ROYAL OAK RO AD CHEPSTOW RD R RD HESTE PORC D HEREFOR ROAD COURTNELL ST LED BUR Y 10 9 KEN ROAD BL BRAMLEY G R PK O ar P E MB R ES’S ST JAM S GARDEN NOTTING HILL L HOLLAND PARK R K P A H O LAD BRO ADB ES ROK QUA RE PEMBRIDGE RD RE S. GS S TER PDEN N CHU . N G TO KE N SI STREET WALK 17 PEEL EN ST BREY AU CA M PD GDNS D BEDFOR . Portobello Road Market Main market Mon–Wed.165 0 200 yds FIFTHAV ENUE AD Gr an Ca d Unio nal n BR A V I TH IR D BU RN RO AD PA R OW AVE N U KR Kensal Green HA Cemetery RR KIL EATING & DRINKING Al Waha 11 Elbow Room IL B E Bed Bar 3 Galicia RT ST E ET CherryRJam 9 Ion Cashbar 8 Lisboa Patisserie Costas 16 Mandarin Kitchen The Cow 5 The Mandola NGTON ROAD PO R T N ALL ROAD FERNHEAD ROAD 12 2 7 1 15 14 Market Bar Prince Bonaparte Rodrizio Rico The Westbourne Windsor Castle OA D SH 6 10 13 4 17 M A LV E R N R O A D E PLACES High Street Kensington to Notting Hill N KE NS AL IR NORTH KENSINGTON ST Q UINT IN A V. H O LL AND HIL PA LA CE CH Kensington Palace R AND V IL LA W AL K L ST R WALK RO GR EE N H O L L A S IN AD EET H OL LA ND ST AD S RO A D RO TS BU PHIL LIMO KENSINGTON St Mary Abbots NGTON CT KENS IN GTO N CL A IR RO AD NR OAD D R O A D EL RU SS RE G RO AD ARD ENS RT RD S COU EARL O LR AD GDON ABIN RD A LL EN ST RW . a restaurant and a contemporary. CHE STER GA TON K E R O D B L A T R O P E O V G R ROA D LA N G I E L U E E N A V N D RO OR RO AD R AD O A D ND AV H G R E AT EN UE A NE GO LB 1 Trellick Tower R R O W SU T R HE LA R O 2 O B 3 WESTBOURNE PARK Y RO CK AD WE A W E L O E L STE RN D S K NS RDE GE RID OR OXF D DE GAR NS A T T LADBROKE GROVE ST MA RK ’S B CAM W W A D R O W E S TA V O IST 4 R A Y T E R A S N C L A E W 7 6 S A D R O T B O U R N OT TA L B E TE RR AC E Rough Trade 8 D SUTHERLAN PL. celebrity- Contents Places STANFORD RD BL YT KENSINGTON (OLYMPIA) D Leighton PK R N House HOLLAND N G T O HIG H ST R T EE HIGH ST KENSINGTON MARLOES RD VIC TOR IA ROA D KENSINGTON SQUARE DE VERE GS SBR OO OAKW GLOUCESTER RD PALACE GA. ’S G S OHN ST J AD DALE RO QUEENS N D L L A H O A H O LL K R SHEPHERD’S BUSH D N S O DI L L A N D Holland Park Holland House RY AB BO O’ R OA RO AD MA ME LBU Y HE R O AD KE NS I Olympia WA ES ARD EDW RE A SQU © Crown copyright D Gardens laid out around the house (only the east wing of which survived the last war). the gardens drift down in terraces to the arcades. antiques Sat 6am–4pm. Situated in one of the wealthiest.
Things kick off. pastries and cakes brought in from farms around London. gasworks and canal. Kensal Green Cemetery was the first of the city’s commercial graveyards. the market gets a lot more fun and funky at Portobello Green under the Westway flyover.The merchandise gets progressively cheaper as the market swings east into Golborne Road. Graves of the more famous incumbents – Thackeray. friendly staff and a dizzying Contents Places . which leads from the easternmost entrance on Harrow Road. this new enterprise excels in well-crafted goods. veg.uk.uk. and artist William Mulready’s neoRenaissance extravaganza. Rough Trade 130 Talbot Rd t 020/7229 8541.co.kensalgreen. Trollope.co. Sat 9am–1pm. yet it’s always a great spot for a browse and a bargain. Portobello Road Market is probably London’s trendiest.roughtrade. Fresh fruit. sphinx and angels. where the emphasis switches to retro clothes and jewellery. so it makes a lot of sense to join one of the guided tours (£5) that take place every Sunday at 2pm and. such as jewellery.com. on the first and third Sunday of the month. which has its own constellation of bric-a-brac stalls. w www. include a visit to the catacombs (bring a torch). High Street Kensington to Notting Hill PLACES Kensal Green Cemetery Harrow Rd w www.flowgallery. circus manager Andrew Ducrow’s conglomeration of beehive. at the intersection with Chepstow Road. and immediately proved itself to be extremely popular – a whole host of luminaries are Shops Flow Gallery 1–5 Needham St t 020/7243 0782. Showing the work of mainly British artists. buried here under some of the most extravagant Gothic tombs in the whole of London. Notting Hill Farmers’ Market Kensington Palace car park. fabrics and sculpture. the cemetery is vast. Indie WROUGHT-IRON PORCH NEAR HOLLAND PARK specialist with knowledgeable. pricier antique shops. Worth looking out for are MajorGeneral Casement’s bier. Opened in 1833.166 saturated parts of town. records and books. After a brief switch to fruit and veg around the Electric Cinema. Siemens and the Brunels – are less interesting architecturally than those arranged on either side of the Centre Avenue. with junky antique stalls and classier. odd trinkets. w www. Hemmed in by railway. held up by four grim-looking turbaned Indians.
offering allday breakfasts.167 array of wares. w www. Contents Places . Arguably London’s best Large Chinese fish restaurant that purports to sell more lobsters (at around £15 a pound) than anywhere else in Britain. Mandarin Kitchen 14–16 Queensway t 020/7727 9012. cakes and a friendly atmosphere.Waiters deftly wheel four-foot diameter table tops around like giant hoops as they set up communal tables for parties of Chinese diners. burgers and cocktails. Lebanese restaurant. Galicia 323 Portobello Rd t 020/8969 3539. Lisboa Patisserie 57 Golborne Rd. with the best pasteis de nata (custard tarts) this side of Lisbon – also coffee. The tapas at the bar are straightforward and good. around £20 at this Brazilian churrascaria. Closed Mon. Carvers come round and lop off chunks of freshly grilled. Pleasant Spanish Strikingly delicious “urban Sudanese” food at sensible prices – main courses hover around £10 – served by extremely laid-back staff.mandolacafe. Rodrizio Rico 111 Westbourne Grove t 020/7792 4035. Most dishes are under £10. PLACES High Street Kensington to Notting Hill Cuban-style café just off Portobello Road. soups. mezeobsessed (£5 and under). so it’s no surprise that quite a lot of customers get no further. while you prime your plate from the salad bar and hot buffet. This old-fashioned GreekCypriot caff offers one of the best fish-and-chips experiences in London.com. Authentic Portuguese pastelaria. Costas Fish Restaurant 18 Hillgate St. fritters. GOLBORNE ROAD Restaurants Al Waha 75 Westbourne Grove t 020/7229 0806.Tables outside in summer. Check out the spiced coffee to round off your meal. Eat as much as you like for restaurant without pretension. Cafés Cashbar 105–107 Talbot Rd. smoky meats from skewers. but also painstaking in its preparation of the main-course dishes (from around £10). from electronica to hardcore and beyond. The Mandola 139 Westbourne Grove t 020/7229 4734. Laid-back. TRELLICK TOWER. Closed Mon & Sun.
crammed with hedonistic locals standing on the sofas.There’s food available on the mezzanine. thanks to its spectacular food. intimate basement place mixes a decadent cocktail bar with top-end West London DJs from the broken beat and deep house scenes.net. which includes a daily supply of fresh oysters. very popular traditional English pub with a great courtyard. that would like to think it’s out in the country rather than tucked away in the backstreets. Self-consciously bohemian pub with gilded mirrors and weird objets – all very Notting Hill. Cool themed DJ bar. Co-owned by Ben Watt (house DJ and half of pop group Everything But The Girl). Market Bar 240a Portobello Rd.cherryjam . Prince Bonaparte 80 Chepstow Rd. plus R&B/soul DJs (and queues outside) most nights. Elbow Room has redefined the pool pub. One of a trio of popular bare-boards Notting Hill gastropubs. Moroccan- Ion 161–165 Ladbroke Grove w www.co. this pub pulls in the beautiful W11 types. Tom Conran.elbow-room. Cherry Jam 52 Porchester Rd w www. designer decor. WESTBOURNE PARK ROAD Pubs and bars Bed Bar 310 Portobello Rd. with acres of space for sitting and supping while enjoying the bar snacks or the excellent Brit or Med food in the restaurant area.meanfiddler. arms aloft while the DJs spin funky house and Latintinged beats. purple-felt American pool tables. The Westbourne 101 Westbourne Park Villas. Owned by pared-down. and betterthan-average grilled fast-food and beer. Very pretty. son of gastromagnate Terence.com. Contents Places . this smart. serving top-notch Brit-Med food. contemporary feel to this Mean Fiddler-run bar situated under the Westway.uk.168 High Street Kensington to Notting Hill PLACES ALFRESCO DRINKING. trendy. With its Windsor Castle 114 Campden Hill Rd. Very popular The Cow 89 Westbourne Park Rd. Elbow Room 103 Westbourne Grove w www . minimalist pub.
uk). and home to London Zoo.org. an entirely appropriate addition to the park given the Prince Regent’s taste for the Orient. Nearby Camden. Prominent on the skyline is the shiny copper dome and minaret of the London Central Mosque at 146 Park Road (wwww. PLACES Regent’s Park and Camden Regent’s Park w www.uk. By far the prettiest section of the park is Queen Mary’s Gardens. has a scruffy feel to it.169 Regent’s Park and Camden Framed by dazzling Nash-designed. by contrast. magnolia-stuccoed terraces. the market remains one of the city’s biggest off-beat attractions. mostly Neoclassical terraces form a near-unbroken horseshoe around the Outer Circle. and sprinkled with a total of 56 villas. Regent’s Park is a very civilized and well-maintained spot. street fashion. books. Non-Muslim visitors are welcome to look in at the information centre. including a magnificent pleasure palace for the Prince himself.co. despite its many well-to-do residential streets. and a handsomely landscaped CHESTER TERRACE ARCHES.The plan was never fully realized. drawn up for the Prince Regent (later George IV). and glimpse inside the hall of worship. records and ethnic goods. centred around Camden Lock on the Regent’s Canal. A warren of stalls with an alternative past still manifest in its quirky wares. but enough was built to create something of the idealized garden city that Nash and the Prince Regent envisaged. This is partly due to the chaos and fall-out from the area’s perennially popular weekend market. which is packed out with a diversity of communities for the lunchtime Friday prayers. which lie within the central Inner Circle.islamicculturalcentre. As well as a pond replete with exotic ducks. Pristine.royalparks. REGENT’S PARK Contents Places . According to John Nash’s 1811 masterplan. Regent’s Park was to be girded by a continuous belt of terraces. which marks the park’s perimeter along with a handful of handsome villas.
from Paddington to the River Thames at Limehouse. PHOENIX RD IN GTON ST E USTO N R O AD EUSTON ROAD SHIR E ST RE ET WARREN ST EUSTON SQUARE REE ON ST T St Pa Stat The Engineer Lansdowne Mango Rooms Manna 7 6 10 3 Marine Ices 1 Odette’s 4 Primrose Patisserie 5 Viet-Anh Cafe 12 WKD 8 © Crown copyright traced the limit of London’s northernmost suburbs at the time. Along the eastern edge of the park. featuring some 400 varieties surrounded by a ring of ramblers. and provide an invaluable traffic-free towpath that’s great for walking or cycling. Quickly superseded by the railway. S T ED AR K OV A L R O A D E I N C P R C I R C L E A L B E R T RO RD SS CE IN KE NT IS H F IT O ZR Y Camden Market CA TL IA AC 7 S E- RO AD AD 5 6 C HA Q ’S UEEN G R ER VE Offstage Bookshop A Primrose Hill RD CAMDEN ROAD RO N D E 11 N R O YA L RO GRO N VE OA D Modern Age Vintage Clothing M R O A D AD Rhythm Records A V E N 9 ARLINGT 8 AD E L SWO CR E O F W AL ES KENTISH TOWN WEST RO CH 2 R AD U E E N A V AL K FA SE ORDN ANCE HILL HI L REGENT’S A D R O END R O CH O U TOW AL D CO E NSH D TR S R TE P CAM DEN AD A gen t's Ca n al T E R R OA CAMD C O L L E G E T ES M LY SS INVERNEST 10 D O U London Zoo AD E RD LO DG London Central Mosque Regent's Park WALK Re AY W 12 RK PA D ELA ALBE RT STRE ET CAMDEN TOWN BAYH AM CA M C IRCLE N MOR INGT AD ROAD BALCOMBE ST PL STR . Regent’s Canal was constructed as part of a direct link from Birmingham to the newly built London Docks.170 DE R OAD KIN G H ENR Y’S R O AD ROAD RTHY P RI M RO L L AIN RO OD ADEL RD PK LEY S LA N RD D AI CH N’S CHALK FARM 3 4 G WO PR INC FIN OG OH 1 ST J RD TO W Regent’s Park and Camden PLACES AC D AL ON LITS ROA PR ST JOHN'S D T. 11 Contents HAR E WO O D AV. slicing London Places . Regent’s Canal Completed in 1820. however. its seemingly random meandering. 42 bridges. a large slice of the gardens is taken up with a glorious rose garden. and its nine miles. the canal never really paid its way as its investors had hoped. most attractive stretch. By some miracle. twelve locks and two tunnels stand as a reminder of London’s industrial heyday. tunnelling through to Lisson Grove. RE ET OLT ST AS ROAD C H A LT CARD ST Euston Station EUSTON EUSTON SQ. skirting Regent’s Park. N RD N CEY ST ROAD ON ST KATHARINE'S PRECINCT 13 PARK VILLAS PLEN DER ST N ST MORNINGTO MORNINGTON ON CR. CAMDEN TOWN PR AT T ST T STREE PA ST RE ET S T R E E T RK VILLA G E CRESCENT .The lockless run between Little Venice and Camden Town is the busiest. CH ES TE R RO AD EET R O S SM O R E R O A D MP ST E BAKER ST AL AN RD Marylebone Station BA PE CIRCLE CHESTER TERRACE NY Open-Air Theatre Queen Mary’s Gardens STREET INNER BROAD UA RE SQ OU TER HO M A R Y L E B O N E R O A D IG O N H E ST CIRCLE TERRACE MAR 0 400 yds S. WOOD ST JOHN’ S WOO H RD D HIG WOO HN’S ST JO D MUND ’S T E R R. London Zoo (see opposite). YLE B PAD DIN ST GTON H REGENT’S PARK PA DE VO N RK CR D R U M M ON D GREAT R D S T PORTLAND WARREN STREET STREET E LON GFO Laurence Corner HA MARYLEBONE UT BAKER ST YORK E R O ST WELLI NGTO H EN HIG STR EET U E giant rockery. EATING & DRINKING Bar Vinyl 9 Bartok 2 Café Delancey 13 Camden Brewing Co. it escaped being covered over or turned into a rail or road route. the tree-lined Broad Walk forms a stately approach (much appreciated by rollerbladers) to the park’s most popular attraction. SQ EY KL OA E Y OAKL CUMBERLAND TERRACE CROWNDALE ROAD Old Panc Chur PA R K P A EAS N NCR X SUS S E D A R O T EV ER SH HARRINGTON SQ.
Other zoo landmarks include the colossal tetrahedral aluminium-framed tent of the LONDON CENTRAL MOSQUE Snowdon Aviary. too. Regent’s Park w www. Daily: March–Oct 10am–5. and journey time is fifty minutes one-way.uk) and the London Waterbus Company (t 020/7482 2660). Nov–Feb 10am–4pm. and the regular “Animals in Action” live shows where the keepers bring some of their charges out into the open – owls swoop over the audience’s heads and lemurs climb up the furniture. and passing straight through the heart of Camden Market. most notably the modernist.The zoo boasts some striking architectural features.30pm. though the enclosures are as humane as any inner-city zoo could make them. Smaller ones are particularly taken with the children’s enclosure. and kids usually love the place. spiralramped 1930s concrete penguin pool. alongside a crop of shops. Camden Market w www. and some stalls now stay open all week long. Camden Market remains a genuinely offbeat place. Tickets from all the companies cost £5–6 one-way (and only a little more return). PLACES Regent’s Park and Camden London Zoo Outer Circle. It’s still not the most uplifting spot for animal-lovers. but there’s no demeaning “performing” involved.The tiny crafts market which began in the cobbled courtyard by the lock has since mushroomed out of all proportion.co. The latter two run trips all year round.000 shoppers turn up here each weekend. which are without doubt the best way to take in the canal.londonzoo.171 Zoo in two. £13. where they can handle the animals. It’s also the one section that’s served year-round by narrowboats offering pleasure cruises (see box).net. invertebrate-filled Web of Life. Contents Places .co. London Zoo has sought to redefine itself as an eco-conscious place whose prime purpose is to save species under threat of extinction. Over the last decade or so.uk.camdenlock. and the ecoconscious. Jason’s (t 020/7286 3428. w www. cafés Regent’s Canal by boat Three companies run boat trips on the Regent’s Canal between Camden and Little Venice: the narrowboat Jenny Wren (t 020/7485 4433).jasons. More than 150. though on weekends only in winter. with everyone trying to grab a piece of the action on both sides of Camden High Street and Chalk Farm Road. For all its tourist popularity.
Shops Laurence Corner 62–64 Hampstead Rd t 020/7813 1010. pizza and pasta are served in the adjacent restaurant. and takeaway food outlets ready to fuel hungry shoppers with wok-fried noodles. manic shop offering a huge range of indie CDs upstairs (no vinyl). Primrose Patisserie 136 Regent’s Park Rd. Rhythm Records 281 Camden High St t 020/7267 0123. REGENT’S CANAL. Regent’s Park and Camden PLACES Excellent. well-stocked shop covering all aspects of stage and screen craft. criticism. folk. soul and R&B vinyl treasures and a pretty hip selection of jazz CDs.The overabundance of cheap leather. Splendid and justly famous old-fashioned Italian ice-cream parlour. and staff who know exactly what you’re asking for. naff jewellery and out-and-out kitsch is compensated for by the sheer variety of what’s on offer: everything from bootleg tapes to furniture and mountain bikes. with rock.Try the prawn sugarcane sticks. heavy-duty waterproofs and many kinds of hats. The best bargains are on the rails outside: inside. bowls of paella. serving coffee.172 and bistros. Offstage Theatre and Cinema Bookshop 37 Chalk Farm Rd t 020/7485 4996. Contents Places . LITTLE VENICE Authentic. Downstairs is a calmer affair. offering superb East European cakes and pastries. Modern Age Vintage Clothing 65 Chalk Farm Rd t 020/7482 3787. scripts and biographies. cheerful café run by a friendly and welcoming young Vietnamese couple. Camden’s best French-style brasserie. burgers. alongside a mass of clubwear and street-fashion stalls. Cafés Café Delancey 3 Delancey St. snacks and full meals. Very popular pastel-pink and sky-blue patisserie in fashionable Primrose Hill. kebabs. Splendid outlet (mostly menswear) for lovers of 1940s and 1950s American-style gear. Marine Ices 8 Haverstock Hill. the very lovely cashmere and leather coats are a bit pricier. cakes and smoothies. plus theory. hippy chic. croissants. which also stocks catering uniforms. thermals. the slurpy noodle soups or the hot lemongrass chicken. eccentric army surplus shop. all for around a fiver. Viet-Anh Cafe 41 Parkway t 020/7284 4082. bright. London’s oldest and most Small.
picturesque local restaurant serving well-judged – though pricey – Modern British food. though pricey. where the cooking is consistent and the presentation first-class. Closed Mon. Charming. Open late. casual vegetarian restaurant with 1970s decor. An engaging. Set lunches cost around £15 – a bargain. w www. laid- archetypal club-bar. funky glass-bricked place is the Contents Places . Refurbished old pub with a boldly colourful designer interior. get a seat early if you’re intending to partake.com. This tiny. Starters hover around £5. Big. Pricey. Smart. and the evenings are a fusion of soul. Pubs and bars Bar Vinyl 6 Inverness St. Laid-back café and club-bar. of the sofas and sup beer or wine. mains around £10. Odette’s 130 Regent’s Park Rd t 020/7586 5486. with guest DJs and a record shop downstairs. Camden-cool Caribbean place. 1 Randolph St. in elegant Primrose Hill. Sat & Sun eve. Closed Mon–Fri lunch. Manna 4 Erskine Rd t 020/7722 8028. The Engineer 65 Gloucester Ave. Lansdowne 90 Gloucester Ave. rare-groove and hip-hop. Old- fashioned.manna-veg. grandiose Victorian pub in an equally well-to-do residential area – the food is exceptional. Sink into one back. since main courses can easily touch £20. serving eclectic dishes in large portions. WKD 18 Kentish Town Rd. real fires and good Thai food. where Saturday daytime features jazz.173 PLACES Regent’s Park and Camden CAMDEN MARKET Restaurants Mango Rooms 10 Kentish Town Rd t 020/7482 5065. reggae and funky vibes. bare-boards minimalist pub with comfy sofas. Bartok 78–79 Chalk Farm Rd. while mains breach £10. tasty food that’s a far cry from most pub grub. comfy sofas. while listening to classical music instead of the usual muzak. Closed Sat lunch & Sun eve. Starters are under £5. Camden Brewing Co.
FENTON HOUSE GATES Hidden away in the leafy streets of south Hampstead.You should also take a stroll in the beautiful formal garden (same hours as house. virginals and clavichords. bequeathed by the building’s last private owner. a harpsichord from 1612. as well as outdoor concerts and high art in and around the Neoclassical country mansion of Kenwood House. £4. Highgate is slightly sleepier and more aloof. an Unverdorben lute from 1580 (one of only three in the world) and. Freud Museum 20 Maresfield Gardens w www. largely eighteenth-century developments of Hampstead and Highgate have managed to cling on to their village origins. Lady Binning. the Freud Museum is one of the most poignant of London’s museums. Both benefit from direct access to one of London’s wildest patches of greenery. kite-flying and nude bathing. Hampstead busier and buzzier.There’s very little information in the house.org. with high-profile intelligentsia and discerning pop stars among its residents. and hiring a tape of music played on the above instruments (£1). and houses a collection of European and Oriental ceramics as well as a superb assortment of early musical instruments. look out especially for the early English grand piano.nationaltrust . Experienced keyboard players are sometimes let loose on the instruments during the day. to listen to while you walk round. Mid-March to Oct Wed–Fri 2–5pm.uk. Set grandly behind wroughtiron gates. free). Hampstead Heath.50. on the ground floor. £5. Sat & Sun 11am–5pm. both geographically and aesthetically. Of the two.freud . so it’s worth buying the briefer of the guides on sale at the entrance. Having lived in Vienna for his Contents Places . where you can enjoy stupendous views over London.174 Hampstead and Highgate Hampstead and Highgate PLACES The high points of North London.uk. Among the spinets.org. on which Handel is thought to have played. which features some topclass herbaceous borders. Fenton House Windmill Hill w www. Fenton House is decorated in impeccable eighteenth-century taste. the elegant. Wed–Sun noon–5pm.
the public has unguided.The neat.This was a state-of-the-art pad when Goldfinger moved in.keatshouse . Charles Brown. James Bond’s adversary is indeed named after Ernö – Ian Regency double villa. herself an influential child analyst. and as he changed little during the following sixty years. north London’s premier spot for kite-flying. there’s still a wonderful variety of bucolic scenery in its 800 acres.50. rather staid interior contains books and letters. Nov–March noon–4pm. An elegant.uk. a house at once both modern and old-fashioned.uk. unrestricted access. w www . Anna. what you see today is a 1930s avant-garde dwelling preserved in aspic. also Contents Places . Incidentally. one for women and one mixed – you can swim in for free (daily 7am–9pm or dusk). sumptuously draped in Persian carpets. visits are by hour-long guided tour only (noon. At the park’s southern end are the rolling green pastures of Parliament Hill. three of which – one for men. 1 & 2pm). “that drop of blood is my death warrant”. April–Oct Thurs–Sat noon–5pm. Before 3pm.175 entire adult life. Keats wrote some of his most famous works here before leaving for Rome. Duchamp. 2 Willow Road gives a fascinating insight into the modernist mindset. The ground-floor study and library look exactly as they did when Freud lived here – the collection of erotic antiquities and the famous couch. An added bonus is that the rooms are packed with works of art by the likes of Max Ernst. for which you must book in advance. whitewashed 2 Willow Road t 020/7435 6166. Sigmund Freud was forced to flee the Nazis. home movies of family life in Vienna are shown continually. Tues–Sun: April–Oct noon–5pm. who lived in the house until her death in 1982. confiding to his companion. after 3pm. An unassuming red-brick terraced house built in the 1930s by the Hungarianborn architect Ernö Goldfinger. On either side are numerous ponds. Inspired by the tranquillity of the area and by his passion for girl-next-door Fanny Brawne (whose house is also part of the museum). were all brought here from Vienna. Henry Moore and Man Ray. where he died of consumption in 1821 aged just 25. and though little of its original heathland remains.org. and a small room is dedicated to his daughter. beyond Whitestone Pond.org. £3. March & Nov Sat noon–5pm. and arrived in London during the summer of 1938 as a semiinvalid (he died within a year). Upstairs. Fanny’s engagement ring and the four-poster bed in which the poet first coughed up blood. Keats House is a shrine to Hampstead’s most lustrous figure.nationaltrust. PLACES Hampstead and Highgate Keats House Keats Grove w www. The thickest woodland is to be found in the West Heath. £4. Fleming lived close by and had a deep personal dislike of both Goldfinger and his modernist abode. Hampstead Heath North London’s “green lung” Hampstead Heath is the city’s most enjoyable public park.
Hill Garden. Beyond lies Golders Hill Park. Nov–March 10am–4pm. home to flamingos. DS EN WILLOW 2 Willow ROA D Road 9 L HO A ILL P KH OA H LY AV EN DENNING RD CARLIN GF ROAD ORD D IN I LL G TO CHE ST D GS FOR ER NE NA L W F I T ALE RD R O LL NE ' S ZJ O H N LIN DF IEL D G GS N E Y MARESFIELD A L NETHERHAL L GARDENS A V E N U E DALE HAM GARD ENS B E L SI ME S EHAM W DAL GARDENS . SE BR H OA LOW EW M WE LL W ALK CR OF T TE WALK IV RE YR D E PO FL AS KW AL K G AY TON ROA D DD G N A L KI UE RE OA AV EN K AY RO LW HIL F W FE PL EL TA RN Fenton House UR NEW END CH LR CR OF PL. IZE E MI N EN CL A O GT OS E S N RO AD FINCHLEY RD & FROGNAL Langorf Hotel A D R O DH U LYN RDE N GA RST GS KE NS ID W E D D ER OA D ERB R URN B E L S I ZE AR KW RI T GH RO AD TH UR LO EL DO N SS GR . LYN E KE AT S ILL NS D H ARDE G RK HAMPSTEAD L GS HAL HER NET LY A ND R HU ST A RO D HI 10 GHB DR LA HI LA OAD LL HO LL Y HEA A CH T H HI L T H S TR E E T L HAMPSTEAD R NUE VE AC K BR CH O 6 HI 7 8 LL A RD AL GN D Q. where you can gaze at pygmy goats and fallow deer. a secretive and romantic little gem with eccentric balustraded terraces and a ruined pergola. cranes and other exotic birds. Free. NON CAN CHR IS T W NE E AN ER NE O LOU TH F R P ILGR W IL HEA Y HAM LR RO D L I FA A GA D RD AY GS St John E F ELLERD PR IN DO R EE W CH LE CH OW UR C H R ’S RIN LA. RO CRO F T AV. PER RS EN D GS PA W FR RD S OG AN NA L L GL A N A D H RD IG NH I L L H S T D RR H U Hampstead Village RT A Guesthouse R O CE G N SH FI HOLLY N 11 MP IM STE KEMPLA Y IR N ROAD HA ’S UE UE EN AV ILL KH OA GR EE PSTEA WEST HAMPSTEAD DP L. E N Hampstead and Highgate PLACES D WE LLG AR R TH D OA W R O A Y FINCHL R AVENUE AD W AY O Hampstead Heath YHA 3 THE PAR K Sandy D WEST HEATH R O AD HA PS M TE AT H Golders Hill Park S P A N I A R D S ST HE WE R O Heath N O R A Hill Garden LK M Hampste EL WA W E S West Heath T H E A T H E Viaduct Pond Y W A WE ST H E AT H R O A D AD E Whitestone Pond WE ST A PL ON TT D A VENU N ’S L A H EATH R O A D Vale of Health E A S T RO ER T E OO R Hampstead Cemetery D ED IN RR E AC H A MP ST EAD GRO VE GT HA M O O P S T D EA N E L A D WIL RA INGT P M AV ON W EN UE RD A D A D T H D E N 5 CL . The Heath’s most celebrated sight is the whitewashed Neoclassical Contents Places BEL EATING & DRINKING NE Brew House LA 1 E ND ST Café Mozart 5 WE Cucina 12 dim T café 6 Flask 2 Flask 10 Freemason’s Arms 9 The Gate 2 13 WEST HAMPSTEAD Holly Bush 8 THAMESLINK Jin Kichi 7 Lauderdale House 4 Louis Patisserie 11 WEST Spaniard’s Inn 3 HAMPSTEAD LA N F IN AL VA C H L NL EY AN E LSI CAN FIE L FINCHLEY ROAD BE SIZ E 0 200 yds Freud Museum ZE PA BELS IZE S QUA BEL RE SIZE SQU ARE RK L BE BE DR D ES NETHERHALL WAY N U T LE Y LS LS IZ LY TERR . Daily: April–Sept 10am–6pm. and inspect the impeccably maintained aviaries.176 H A M S Hampstead Garden Suburb WINN ING GOLDERS GREEN D EY ROA T E A D N O R T H WEST HEATH DRIVE D P ARK DR . Swiss Cottage the site of the most formal section. Kenwood House Hampstead Heath. Oct 10am–5pm. ZE CR 14 ES.
A M P S H I G H G AT E SOUTHW LANE OO D PLACES Hampstead and Highgate H 4 L L St Jo H IT H IG HG A TE Waterlow DARTMOUTH PARK HILL Z W AI N' F AN S L Archway Ken Wood M ER Ladies’ Pond N L AN E West Cemetery Park Highgate Cemetery H ESH OTT AV E NUE NUE NUE E Main gate TO T E H G A H I G A Y L W I L MAK EPEA L A N E ad Heath OAK East Cemetery S W A I ST Parliament Hill (319ft) CR OF TD N OW SC RO AD RK Mixed Bathing Pond HI LL W OO D- SO ME RD RO AL N BA ’S OK ROA D FIEL D P AR C F T D OWN Men’s Pond N BR ' S CH E ROA GB LAN T H ES K D H OU T M D ILLF I E L CE AV E OUR VE NE A TE R RO A D W LA E N S L I L O YO RK R ROA D BO LA D UR IE RO AD H RI AS TL PA RK SE I ER TM PA T AN LL HI DA R NT H ME UT NASSINGTON RD D OA S AVERNAK E ROA D Lido i GOSPEL OAK GO RD ON HO U CH ET W SO GR OV E PA RL IA RD SE Keats House PON 12 HAMPSTEAD E IN HEATH NT CO T NS FLE ET R RD A AGIN C SY CRES DS ET TRE RO AD LA MB G RAFTON R D OU RT RO AD D E L F I N S M A A D R O LE ST N Y D RO AD G H G ZA RO A AD RD N NA SO T UT RO H END E A RD RON RD ELLE EST RD OPE RTH COU D KR LOC S H IR RD CK RODERI R LISBURNE RD O AD N A D SO LAWN ROAD UT RD GARNETT OR AS PE G RN RO VE NG VIC D ’S R AR WE ED ING TO HA M PT R K P A UP H A V GLEN MOR E RD ON R. a superlative collection of seventeenth.The house is home to the Iveagh Bequest. Gainsborough and Reynolds.and eighteenthcentury art. Contents Places . set in its own magnificently landscaped grounds at the high point of the park. Of the period interiors. including a handful of real masterpieces by Vermeer. Boucher. the most spectacular is Robert Adam’s sky-blue and gold library. its book-filled apses separated from the central entertaining area by paired columns. PE NR AS PER UE EN R BELSIZE PARK O D R PARK R OA ROA D M A G D L ROA IT T VE QUE EN ’S GL EG RO HOW EN G ILL A N LE RD C LO C R H R D D OA E R SP H I L L AV S T E S C E N T RIN D A N E HO LM ES ROA E D G F N PL M A IT L A ND P K RD K VIL L A S M A I T L A N D PAR T AC O R O A D K H C S IZ I PA GA BEL RK L L AT H ONE ST R O W A D R O A IL L ES RO D C TA L A L RD EN S ET MARSDEN STRE KENTISH TOWN WEST AD mansion Kenwood House.STO IS Highgate NORTH RD 177 RK E L E Y PA AD RO C B H H T E A D L A N E T H E GR OVE 1 HI HIL Kenwood House Y O P R A 2 ES T St Michael SW GR UTH SO TE H E IGH ST R EE T OV CH HIG HG R K OL M L AT EH I CRO M GH GA W E L L AV E . SE RO IM N S PR R D E GA RE R D P E O F WA L E S R O A D RINC Chalk Farm © Crown copyright Rembrandt.
178 The East Cemetery’s lack of atmosphere is in part compensated for by the fact that you can wander at will through its maze of circuitous paths. To the south of the house. the overgrown West Cemetery. Full English breakfasts. £2) is Karl Marx. located on the southeast side of Hampstead Heath. Highgate Cemetery Swain’s Lane w www . on summer weekends. in the courtyard or on the terrace overlooking the lake.com).highgate-cemetery. outrageous strawberry-and-cream scones. Narrow Thai café serving dim sum and noodle dishes. or visit w www. Among the prominent graves usually visited are those of artist Dante Gabriel Rossetti. Hampstead and Highgate PLACES KITE FLYER. Conveniently far more visitors than Highgate itself.Receiving Café Mozart 17 Swain’s Lane. offering full meals and. close by lies the much simpler grave of the author George Eliot. Visitors can only enter by way of a guided tour (March–Nov Mon–Fri noon.org. Sat & Sun 11am–5pm. On the other side of Swain’s Lane. Highgate Cemetery is London’s most famous graveyard. his vulgar bronze bust surmounting a granite plinth is a far cry from the unfussy memorial he had requested. dim T café 3 Heath St. Closed Mon. cakes and teas served in the old laundry. Lovely café with a terrace overlooking the park. Sat & Sun hourly 11am–4pm. washed down with Chinese tea.The most illustrious incumbent of the East Cemetery (April–Oct Mon–Fri 10am–5pm. and of lesbian novelist Radclyffe Hall. Erected by the Communist movement in 1954. where outdoor classical concerts are held on summer evenings (more info on t 020/7973 3427. £3).picnicconcerts. 2pm & 4pm. a grassy amphitheatre slopes down to a lake. is the ultimate Hammer-horror graveyard. Hampstead Heath. lunches. HAMPSTEAD HEATH Cafés Brew House Kenwood House. Contents Places . Lauderdale House Waterlow Park. with a wicked Viennese cake selection and soothing classical music. Highgate Hill. Nov–March closes 4pm. with its spooky Egyptian Avenue and terraced catacombs. Dec–Feb Sat & Sun hourly 11am–3pm.
pergola and roses in the garden. vegetarian restaurant. mains around £10) with intense and satisfying tastes and textures. Big. Aviary. of interest primarily for its large beer garden and its basement skittle alley. Spaniard’s Inn Spaniards Rd. A lovely old gas-lit The Gate 2 72 Belsize Lane t 020/7435 7733. smart pub fashionable first-floor restaurant where the Modern British menu changes every two weeks or so – it darts about a bit from cuisine to cuisine. Sushi is available. situated at the heart of Highgate village green.co. Contemporary pub. Popular and retained much of its original Victorian interior. mains £10-plus. but each dish is well presented. Jin Kichi 73 Heath St t 020/7794 6158. Holly Bush 22 Holly Mount. rather shabby Japanese restaurant that’s nonetheless very busy (book ahead).179 Louis Patisserie 32 Heath St. Flask 77 Highgate West Hill. Closed Sun eve. w www. Closed Mon & Tues–Fri lunch. this convivial local has FLASK PUB. but the speciality is deliciously marinated “grilled skewers” (seven for around £10) of anything from asparagus and pork to chicken gizzard. Big sixteenthcentury coaching inn near to Kenwood and the Heath. Pubs Flask 14 Flask Walk.gateveg. Freemason’s Arms 32 Downshire Hill. Cramped. engagingly old-fashioned Hungarian tearooms serving fantastic sticky cakes to a mix of Heath-bound hordes and elderly locals. it’s very popular. Ideally PLACES Hampstead and Highgate Restaurants Cucina 45a South End Rd t 020/7435 7814. close to the Heath.uk. Can get a bit too mobbed at weekends. frequented over the years by everyone from Dick Turpin to John Keats. serving excellent and original dishes (starters around £5. Located on one of Hampstead’s more atmospheric lanes. with a rambling. Starters cost around £5. tucked away in the steep backstreets of Hampstead village. Brightly painted. FLASK WALK Contents Places . Closed Mon & Tues lunch. low-ceilinged interior and a summer terrace – as a result.
Inside. Its nautical associations are trumpeted by the likes of the magnificent Cutty Sark tea clipper and the National Maritime Museum. it in fact lasted just eight years in the China tea trade. although taking a boat from one of the piers between Westminster and Tower Bridge is more scenic and leisurely (and more expensive). Like Camden. plus outdoor stalls and the indoor Village Market.134) from Bank or Tower Gateway direct to Cutty Sark. In the original covered Victorian section is the Crafts Market. assorted arts and crafts (Thurs–Sun 9. you can see why Greenwich is the one place in southeast London that draws large numbers of visitors. built in 1869.30pm). Waterloo East or London Bridge (every 30min).30am–5.30am–5. and its Observatory is renowned throughout the world. At the weekend (particularly on Sundays). see p. there’s an exhibition in the main hold which tells the ship’s fascinating history. Daily 10am–5pm. stuffed with bric-a-brac – there’s even an adjacent organic food market on Saturdays. Nearby Stockwell Street holds the Central Market (Sat & Sun 7am–5pm). Another possibility is to take the Docklands Light Railway (DLR. indoor secondhand books section. with a two-floor.net.30pm). from its inception to its arrival in Greenwich in 1954. it’s a sprawling. especially the Old Royal Naval College and the Queen’s House. which sells twentiethcentury antiques (Thurs & Fri 7.cuttysark. from spoon mobiles to mounted exotic butterflies. and it was as a wool clipper that it made its name.uk. its architecture. Greenwich Market w www. plus a large and well-maintained park with superb views across the river and to Docklands.org .180 Greenwich Greenwich is one of London’s most beguiling spots. returning from Australia in a record-breaking 72 days. is some of the finest on the river. The Cutty Sark cuts an impressive figure on the riverfront. Greenwich PLACES Cutty Sark King William Walk w www. and deli food. Greenwich Market pulls in as many visitors as the rest of the area’s attractions combined. With the added attractions of riverside pubs and walks. and then take the Greenwich Foot Tunnel under the Thames. get out at Island Gardens. its three square-rigged masts towering over the centre of Greenwich.25. and a popular weekend market. there’s the Antiques Market Getting to Greenwich Greenwich is most quickly reached from central London by train from Charing Cross. with three main areas to head for. Finally. slightly disparate affair. £4. For the best view of the Wren buildings. The world’s last surviving tea clipper.greenwichmarket. Contents Places .
Isle of Dogs Greenwich Foot Tunnel 181 River Thames ST Q BALLA UAY Deptford Greenwich Pier TH AM ES ST WALK Cutty Sark AD CH 3 4 UR Greenwich train station R O W SLE E AS T NEY RD NWICH CH BA Chapel ST COLLEGE APP. ST CR EE K R O CUTTY SARK Old Royal Naval College 1 HOSK 2 LASS G R EE YL AN E GR EE N C WI H HI GH FEATHERS STRAIGHTS MOUTH RD Marcet Books National Maritime Museum Queen’s House GREENWICH ROYAL HILL BUR NEY S ET TRE ' S C R O O M P A R K V I S T A Playground 6 E RG STR Greenwich Park A E ET KIN E G G O Royal Observatory N U MAZE HILL EET 5 P A R K ROA N S TR St Alfege KING WILLIAM NELSON RD R O M N E Y R O A D TRA ST Compendia i Painted Hall Greenwich Great Market Hall Trinity Hospital OLD WO OLWI C H RO A INS STR EET D TRE E LL S PLACES Greenwich ET Millennium Dome FALGAR R OAD PL . O F CE IN SOU PR TH W ES AL D I N EN RD R PA R L PA R O YA RADE AGO MO Contents HA 7 L S F E R G O F RE AN L R D ET LL BI RO A D D R O A AD R O N D R IV E A TR NQ UI R LIE PE NT W MO R O RO INTS W CA M A L V D 0 200 yds B L A C K H E AT H © Crown copyright Places LE Blackheath train station . MAZE HILL T H I L L H E V E M E A E RO ROAD A D UE L WOLF E GENERA S BO Rose Garden W ER AV Ranger’s House EN D ROA LD H Z Planetarium V Y D B L A C K H E A T H E E Tea House H A LE RFIELD CHESTE C A GREAT CROSS AVENUE I L L D Flower Gardens A V E N U E WALK H O Wilderness O T E C H A R R L T O N W A Y IE S H I TF HI W ROAD LO MOUN EY TS POND PO ROAD N D RO A ORC HAR D RO AD AC DUK AD RO C H A R L E E S BO E H U M PH R TA L Black Heath D T P L R O N O G A D A 8 9 NT P V A L EL I E E EATING & DRINKING Chapter Two 8 Cutty Sark 1 Gambardella 7 Goddard’s 3 Pistachio’s Café 5 Richard I 6 Tai Won Mein 4 Trafalgar Tavern 2 Zero Degrees 9 AL L SA P R K DU EH UM PH EY C R E NP L.
Free. which concentrates on containerization. Shackleton’s compass. which is really more about collectibles – old comics. Level 3 boasts two hands-on galleries: “The Bridge”. Greenwich PLACES National Maritime Museum and Queen’s House Romney Rd w www. the much unloved eldest son of George II. among them the splendid 63ft-long gilded Royal Barge. On Level 2. are magnificently opulent and well worth visiting. From 1873 until 1998 it was home to the Royal Naval College. and a gallery devoted to the legacy of the British Empire. In “Explorers”. The Chapel’s exquisite pastelshaded plasterwork and spectacular decorative detailing on the ceiling were designed by James “Athenian” Stuart.org. designed in Rococo style by William Kent for Prince Frederick. where Contents Places . imaginatively displayed in modern. after a fire in 1799 destroyed the original interior. situated underneath Wren’s twin domes. but now houses the University of Greenwich and the Trinity College of Music.nmm. and Captain Scott’s furry sleeping bag and sledging goggles.Wren’s beautifully symmetrical Baroque ensemble was eventually converted into a hospital for disabled seamen in the eighteenth century. such as Captain Cook’s sextant and K1 marine clock. Initially intended as a royal palace. The two grandest rooms. It’s entirely appropriate that the Old Royal Naval College is the one London building that makes the most of its riverbank location. Sponsors P&O get to display their wares in “Passengers”. on Level 1. and “Cargoes”. central courtyard houses the museum’s largest artefacts.uk. there’s a large maritime art gallery. pop and sports memorabilia – and junk. and James Thornhill’s gargantuan allegorical ceiling painting depicting William and Mary handing down Peace and Liberty to Europe. a contemporary section on the future of the sea. The themed galleries of the museum proper are superbly designed to appeal to visitors of all ages.ac. Old Royal Naval College Romney Rd w www . with a vanquished Louis XIV clutching a broken sword below them. which traces the history of modern passenger liners.uk.greenwichfoundation. Free. warts and all.The spectacular glass-roofed. interactive galleries designed to appeal to visitors of all ages. The excellent GREENWICH MARKET (Sat & Sun 9am–5pm). you get to view some of the museum’s most highly prized relics.182 magnificent Painted Hall features trompe l’oeil fluted pilasters.The National Maritime Museum houses a vast collection of boats and nauticalia. off Greenwich High Road. Daily 10am–5pm. Daily 10am–5pm.
Finally. his largest work and only royal commission.uk. A bright white Palladian villa flanked by colonnades. PLACES Greenwich Greenwich Park w www.The observatory itself was established in 1675 by Charles II to house the first Astronomer Royal. and “All Hands”. Royal Observatory Greenwich Park w www.rog. from which Canary Wharf looms large over Docklands and the Millennium Dome.royalparks. John Flamsteed. the lack of which was causing enormous dawn–dusk. firing a cannon and so forth. Daily: April–Sept 10am–6pm.58pm and drops at 1pm GMT precisely. The chief delight. the Royal Observatory is housed in a rather dinky Wrenbuilt red-brick building. Greenwich has occupied zero longitude – hence the world sets its clocks by GMT.co. whose chief task was to study the night sky in order to discover an astronomical method of finding the longitude of a ship at sea. A welcome escape from the traffic and crowds. you reach the Nelson Gallery. and the beautiful Tulip Staircase. it was added in 1833 to allow ships on the Thames to set their clocks. is as the home of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) and the Prime Meridian. though. Since 1884. QUEEN’S HOUSE Contents Places . Greenwich Park is a great place to have a picnic or collapse under the shade of one of the giant plane trees. with its Gentileschi fresco. including Turner’s Battle of Trafalgar. 21st October.183 you can navigate a catamaran. Britain’s earliest cantilevered spiral staircase – its name derives from the floral patterning in the wrought-iron balustrade. Greenwich’s greatest claim to fame. Daily Perched on the crest of Greenwich Park’s highest hill. its TULIP STAIRCASE. whose northeastern turret sports a bright-red time-ball that climbs the mast at 12. of course. a paddle steamer and a rowing boat to shore. most notably the cuboid Great Hall. The Queen’s House is the focal point of Greenwich’s riverside architectural ensemble and an integral part of the Maritime Museum. one or two features survive (or have been reinstated) from Stuart times. where children can have a go at radio transmission. The park is also celebrated for its rare and ancient trees. 1805. loading miniature cargo. but as the first Neoclassical building in the country it has enormous significance. Free. which contains the museum’s vast collection of Nelson-related memorabilia. Inside. is the superb view from the steep hill crowned by the Royal Observatory (see opposite). it’s modest for a royal residence.nmm. royal deer enclosure in “The Wilderness” and its semicircular rose garden. Oct–March 10am–5pm.uk.ac .
english-heritage. the Ranger’s House shelters an art collection amassed by Julius Wernher.50. The oldest part of the complex is the aforementioned Wren-built Flamsteed House. including the present-day Greenwich Meridian fixed by the cross hairs in Airy’s “Transit Circle”. you get to see several meridians. Shops Compendia 10 Greenwich Market t 020/8293 6616.Things end on a soothing note in the Telescope Dome of the octagonal Great Equatorial Building. Nov. shove ha’penny and skittles. The Chronometer Gallery beyond focuses on the search for the precise measurement of longitude. Wed–Sun: April–Sept 10am–6pm. Dec & March 10am–4pm. Marcet Books 23 Nelson Rd t 020/8853 5408.uk. the old observatory.uk. £4.30 & 3. selling traditional board games from all over the globe.co. Contents Places . Oct 10am–5pm. Greenwich PLACES ROSE GARDEN. w www. housed in the adjoining South Building. An imposing fashioned games shop. Good selection of old prints and maps. including “H4”.compendia. which helped win the Longitude Prize in 1763. a pair of sixteenth-century majolica dishes decorated with mythological scenes for Isabella d’Este. GREENWICH PARK taste was eclectic. the German-born millionaire who made his money by exploiting South Africa’s diamond deposits. In addition. is now a very popular museum. His Greenwich. Astronomers continued to work here until the postwar smog forced them to decamp. the astronomical instrument that dominates the last room. this is one of a number of bookshops specializing in nautical titles. the high points of the collection are Memlinc’s Virgin and Child.30pm. as well as crime novels. and displays four of the marine clocks designed by John Harrison.marcetbooks.co.org. containing Flamsteed’s restored apartments and the Octagon Room. too. In the Meridian Building. Old- Ranger’s House Chesterfield Walk w www .uk. downstairs. meanwhile. take note of the Reynolds portraits and de Hooch interior. there are regular presentations in the Planetarium (daily 2. where the king used to show off to his guests. though he was definitely a man who placed technical virtuosity above artistic merit. w www. £4). As befits red-brick Georgian villa.184 problems for the emerging British Empire. ranging from medieval ivory miniatures to Iznik pottery. Upstairs. home to Britain’s largest telescope. as well as pub favourites like bagatelle.
Zero Degrees 29–31 Montpelier Vale t 020/8852 5619. off Lassell St. this is a decent local restaurant serving classic. Contents Places . The best good sandwich place in the centre of Greenwich. style caff serving filling. Good- riverside pub in Greenwich. served in an emeraldgreen tiled interior. Tai Won Mein 39 Greenwich Church St.uk. the Fox & Hounds next door is good. Sleek. Old- £17 for two courses. and there are tables in a small garden out back. the coffee is excellent. too. Choose between rice. Traditional pies (including veggie ones). an appropriately nautical flavour. Micro-brewery beers and gourmet pizzas cooked in a wood-fired oven are the rewards at this modern pizzeria.co. with lunches a couple of pounds cheaper. Restaurants Chapter Two 43–45 Montpelier Vale t 020/8333 2666. Pistachio’s Café 15 Nelson Rd. Just about the only Pubs Cutty Sark Ballast Quay.185 Cafés Gambardella 48 Vanbrugh Park.chaptersrestaurants . w www . Closed Sun. comfort food in a beautiful Art Deco interior. Richard I 52–54 Royal Hill. eels and mash. Good whitebait and other pub snacks. A great riverside professionally run. Set price dinners cost position and a mention in Dickens’ Our Mutual Friend have made this Regency-style inn a firm favourite. Popular local tucked away off the main drag. soup or various fried noodles all for under a fiver. w www. modern and Trafalgar Tavern 5 Park Row.zerodegrees-microbrewery. well-thought-out French dishes. Good beer and a garden make it an ideal post-market retreat – and if it’s too crowded. with friendly staff. a good range of real ales and pub grub served all day. £20 for three.com. PLACES Greenwich Goddard’s 45 Greenwich Church St. quality noodle bar that gets very busy at weekends.
Kew and Richmond
Kew and Richmond PLACES
The wealthy suburbs of Kew and Richmond like to think of themselves as aloof from the rest of London, and in many ways they are. Both have a distinctly rural feel: Kew, thanks to its outstanding botanic gardens; Richmond, thanks to its picturesque riverside setting. Taking the leafy towpath from Richmond Bridge to one of the nearby stately homes, or soaking in the view from Richmond Park, you’d be forgiven for thinking you were in the countryside. Both Kew and Richmond are an easy tube ride from the centre, but the most pleasant way to reach them is to take one of the boats that plough up the Thames from Westminster.
Syon House and gardens
Twickenham Rd w www.syonpark .co.uk. House April–Oct Wed, Thurs & Sun 11am–5pm. Gardens daily 10.30am–5.30pm; £3.50. House £3.50, house and gardens £6.95.
From its rather plain, castellated exterior, you’d never guess that Syon House boasts London’s most opulent eighteenth-century interior.The splendour of Robert Adam’s refurbishment is immediately revealed in the pristine Great Hall, an apsed double cube with a screen of Doric columns at one end and classical statuary dotted around
the edges.There are several more Adam-designed rooms to admire, and a smattering of works by van Dyck, Lely, Gainsborough and Reynolds adorn the walls. While Adam beautified Syon House, Capability Brown laid out its gardens around an artificial lake, surrounding the water with oaks, beeches, limes and cedars.Those with young children will be compelled to make use of the miniature steam train which runs through the park at weekends from April to October, and on Wednesdays during the school holidays.
Syon Park, Twickenham Rd w www.butterflies.org.uk. Daily: May–Sept 10am–5pm; Oct–April 10am–4pm. £4.95. Another of
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Syon’s plus-points for kids is its Butterfly House, a small, meshcovered hothouse where you can walk amid hundreds of exotic butterflies from all over the world, as they flit about the foliage – the giant swallowtails are particularly spectacular. An adjoining room houses a collection of iguanas, millipedes, tarantulas and giant hissing Tanzanian cockroaches.
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Syon Park, Twickenham Rd w www.aquatic-experience.org. Daily: April–Sept 10am–6pm; Oct–March 10am–5pm. £4. The purpose-built
Kew and Richmond PLACES
London Aquatic Experience displays a mixed range of creatures from the mysterious basilisk, which can walk on water, to the perennially popular piranhas.There are plenty of other life-threatening creatures, too, such as crocodiles, pythons, boas and even poison-arrow frogs. Look out, too, for the bird collection, which includes macaws, parrots, weaver birds and some very colourful starlings.
w www.kew.org. Daily 9.30am–7.30pm or dusk. £6.50. Established in
1759, Kew’s Royal Botanic Gardens have grown from their original eight acres into a 300acre site in which more than 33,000 species are grown in plantations and glasshouses, a display that attracts over a million visitors every year, who come simply to enjoy the beautiful landscaped parkland and steamy palmhouses.There’s always something to see, whatever the season, but to get the most out of the place, come sometime between spring and autumn, bring a picnic and stay for the day. There are four entry points to the gardens, but the majority of people arrive at Kew Gardens tube and train station, a few minutes’ walk east of the Victoria Gate. Immediately opposite the Victoria Gate, the Palm House is by far the most celebrated of the gardens’ glasshouses, a curvaceous mound of glass and wrought-iron designed by Decimus Burton in the 1840s. Its drippingly humid atmosphere nurtures most of the
PAGODA, KEW GARDENS
known palm species, while there’s a small but excellent tropical aquarium in the basement. South of here is the largest of the glasshouses, the Temperate House, which contains plants from every continent, including the sixtyfoot Chilean Wine Palm, one of the largest indoor palms in the world. Elsewhere in the park, Kew’s origins as an eighteenth-century royal pleasure garden are evident in the numerous follies dotted about the gardens, the most conspicuous of which is the ten-storey, 163-foot-high Pagoda, visible to the south of the Temperate House. A sure way to lose the crowds is to head for the thickly wooded, southwestern section of the park around Queen Charlotte’s Cottage (April–Sept Sat & Sun 10.30am–4pm; free), a tiny
thatched summerhouse built in the 1770s as a royal picnic spot for George III’s queen. rhododendrons; the Isabella Plantation is particularly attractive. For refreshment, head for Pembroke Lodge, a teahouse near King Henry VIII’s Mount; this is the park’s highest point, affording wonderful views right out to Windsor and back into central London.
Pedestrianized, terraced and redeveloped in the late 1980s, Richmond’s riverside is a neoGeorgian pastiche for the most part, and a popular one at that. The real joy of the waterfront, though, is Richmond Bridge, an elegant span of five arches made from Purbeck stone in 1777 and cleverly widened in the 1930s, thus preserving what is London’s oldest extant bridge. From April to October you can rent rowing boats from the nearby jetties, or take a boat trip to Hampton Court or Westminster. Alternatively, you can simply head south down the towpath, past the terraced gardens which give out great views over the river. Quite quickly, the towpath leaves the rest of London far behind. On either side are the wooded banks of the Thames; to the left cows graze on Petersham Meadows; beyond lies Ham House (see opposite).
PLACES Kew and Richmond
Ham St w www.nationaltrust.org.uk /hamhouse. April–Oct Mon–Wed, Sat & Sun 1–5pm. £7. Expensively
w www.royalparks.gov.uk. Daily:
furnished in the seventeenth century but little altered since then, Ham House boasts one of the finest Stuart interiors in the country, from the stupendously ornate Great Staircase to the Long Gallery, featuring six “Court Beauties” by Peter Lely. Elsewhere, there are several fine Verrio ceiling paintings, some exquisite parquet flooring, lavish plasterwork and silverwork as well as paintings by van Dyck and Reynolds. Another bonus are the formal seventeenthcentury gardens (Mon–Wed, Sat & Sun 10.30am–6pm; £3), especially the Cherry Garden, with a pungent lavender parterre surrounded by yew hedges and pleached hornbeam
March–Sept 7am–dusk; Oct–Feb 7.30am–dusk. Free. Richmond’s
greatest attraction is its enormous park, at the top of Richmond Hill – 2500 acres of undulating grassland and bracken, dotted with coppiced ancient woodland. Eight miles across at its widest point, this is Europe’s largest city park, famed for its red and fallow deer, which roam freely, and for its venerable oaks. For the most part untamed, the park does have a couple of deliberately landscaped areas which feature splendid springtime azaleas and
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w www. busy children’s bookshop that regularly Contents Places . Oct daily 10am–5pm. w www. The Lion & Unicorn 19 King St. and there are open-air concerts on occasional summer evenings (more info on t 020/8892 5115. and though some period furniture has taken its place the house can feel barren – it’s a good idea to get some background via a free audioguide. with an adjacent deli selling sausages and cheese. a perfect cube whose coved ceiling carries on up into the top-floor apartments.The other highlight is Lady Suffolk’s Bedchamber. £3. Nothing remains of the original furnishings. set in rolling green parkland. Richmond t 020/8948 6040. Shops Backhaus 175 Ashburnham Rd. currently serves as a tearoom. April–Sept daily 10am–6pm.190 Kew and Richmond PLACES VIEW FROM RICHMOND HILL arbours. Stollen and to-die-for rye breads. also a lady-inwaiting to his wife.co.backhaus. which features an Ionic columned recess – a classic Palladian device. was built in 1729 for the Countess of Suffolk.co. This stuccoed Palladian villa.50. conveniently. Wonderful. and a further splash of colour is provided by Panini’s Roman landscapes above each of the doors. Copies of van Dyck decorate the walls as they did in Lady Suffolk’s day. Queen Caroline (apparently “they hated one another very civilly”).You can play minigolf in the grounds.lionunicornbooks.uk. The Orangery.The principal space is the Great Room. Richmond t 020/8940 0483. Richmond Rd w www.com). Marble Hill House Marble Hill Park.org. mistress of George II for some twenty years and.uk.uk. overlooking the original kitchen garden.picnicconcerts. Top German bakery making authentic cheesecakes. or visit w www .english-heritage.
Richmond.Warm service. Closed Mon. Richmond t 020/8948 7473. With a longer pedigree and more character than its rivals. eccentric Ukrainian restaurant decorated with naïve cartoon murals. main courses. authentic blini (for around £5). and wash it all down with Breton cider. Small. coffees. large garden overlooking the river. Richmond. pelmeni. This stylish. sandwiches and pastries. crepes or more formal French food. the White Cross has a very popular. offering fixedprice lunchtime menus for just £6. Maison Blanc 27b The Quadrant. and lots of flavoured vodkas. including lots of fresh fish and shellfish. Cafés Hothouse Café 9 Station Parade. Pubs White Cross Hotel Water Lane. Filling pub Breton creperie with a loyal local following. draught beer and a quiet riverside location (except on rugby match days) make this a good halt on any towpath ramble. Richmond t 020/8948 2366. French patisserie ideal for picking up a picnic of bread and pastries before heading on to the park. teas and juices.191 organizes visits by popular children’s writers on Saturdays. and an unusually large variety of breads. Twickenham. Kozachok 10 Red Lion St. Kew. bright and authentic White Swan Riverside. Full English breakfasts.There’s a beer pontoon if you want to get closer to the water. Significantly PLACES Kew and Richmond inexpensive and congenial café is a great place to fuel up before hitting the botanic gardens. Choose between galettes. Contents Places . shashlik (for more like £10). Restaurants Chez Lindsay 11 Hill Rise.
built at the same time as the Queen’s.192 Hampton Court Hampton Court Palace is the finest of England’s royal abodes and well worth the trip out from central London. April–Oct Mon 10.The other highlight is the superbly HAMPTON COURT PALACE GATEHOUSE ornate Chapel Royal. Arriving by train or boat. Contents Places . Bruegel and Holbein. one of the most memorable sights in the whole palace.org. which features a glorious double hammerbeam ceiling.30am–6pm.50. The Renaissance Picture Gallery is chock-full of treasures from the vast Royal Collection including paintings by Tintoretto. only to be purloined by Henry himself after Wolsey fell from favour. chimneypots and pinnacles. inspired by what he had seen at Versailles. particularly the militaristic trompe l’oeil paintings on the King’s Staircase and the Great Bedchamber. Tues–Sun 9. Hampton Court PLACES Royal Apartments w www. both inside and outside the palace. sprawling red-brick ensemble on the banks of the Thames.The Queen’s Apartments (intended for Queen Mary) boast wonderful trompe l’oeil frescoes on the grandiose Queen’s Staircase and in the Queen’s Drawing Room. Cranach.Titian. King Henry lavished more money on Hampton Court than any other palace.hrp. taking a picnic with you to have in the grounds. which boasts a superb vertical Gibbons frieze and ceiling paintings by Verrio.15am–6pm. heavy with pendants of gilded music-making cherubs.30pm. yet the only major survival from Tudor times in Henry VIII’s State Apartments is his Great Hall. prickling with turrets.The gem of the Georgian Rooms is in fact the Wolsey Closet. Nov–March closes 4. you approach the Tudor Great Gatehouse. while King William III and Queen Mary II had large sections of the palace remodelled by Wren. a tiny Tudor room that gives a tantalizing glimpse of the splendour of the original palace. where Anne’s husband is depicted riding naked and wigless on the back of a “dolphin”. with its colourful plasterwork vaulting. castellations. A wonderfully imposing. Charles II laid out the gardens. Lotto. With so much to see. £11. it was built in 1516 by the upwardly mobile Cardinal Wolsey. are even more grand. Henry VIII’s Lord Chancellor. you’d be best off devoting the best part of a day to the place.uk.The King’s Apartments. no longer moated but still very mighty.
but guided tours. all are led by period-costumed historians. who do a fine job of bringing the place to life. And be sure not to miss out on the Maze. In addition. If your energy is lacking – and Hampton Court is a huge complex – the most rewarding sections are Henry VIII’s State Apartments (aka the Tudor Rooms). Contents Places . the King’s Apartments and the Georgian Rooms are served by an audioguide. which are numbered and colour-coded. large sections of which have survived to this day and have been restored and embellished with historical reconstructions. The Royal Apartments are divided into six thematic walking tours. To make the most of this route.Bushy Park HAMP TON C OUR T ROA D 193 RO AD H A M PTO N C O U R T AD T RO Lion Gates OUR Flower Pot Gates W A L K Maze PTO NC PLACES Hampton Court HAM HA M Tiltyards PT Wilderness ON CT RD Trophy Gates Ticket Office & Shop Rose Garden Royal Tennis Court COU RT B RID GE Hampton Court Palace HAM PTO N R i v e Great Gatehouse Base Court Clock Court B R O A D Fountain i Fountain Court r Great Vine Lower Orangery Long Water Pond Garden W A L K Garden Hampton Court Train Station Banqueting House Privy Garden Tijou Screen B R O A D HAMPTON AY COURT W T h a m e s N 0 100 yds © Crown copyright Last. but not least. are the earthy and evocative Tudor Kitchens. are available at no extra charge for the state apartments. the Tudor Kitchens. each lasting half an hour or so. the King’s Apartments (remodelled by William III) and the Tudor Kitchens. available (again at no extra charge) from the information centre on the east side of Clock Court. you really do need to use the Getting to and around the palace Trains from Waterloo take around half an hour to reach Hampton Court train station which is just across the river from the palace. There’s not a lot of information in any of the rooms. the King Henry VIII’s Apartments.
and at their most colourful each spring when the rhododendrons. Hampton Court PLACES The Gardens and the Maze If you’re coming from the Royal Apartments. It’s a deceptively tricky labyrinth that’s a winner with kids and adults alike. is the yew hedge Maze (£3. however. cuts through the park and is at its best in May when the horse chestnuts are in blossom. Chestnut Avenue. free with palace ticket) which feature magnificent wrought-iron riverside railings by Jean Tijou. originally constructed as ornamental fish ponds stocked with freshwater fish for the kitchens. Contents Places . Halfway along is the indoor Royal Tennis Court (50p).194 audioguide. semicircular parterre featuring conical dwarf yew trees. which helps to evoke the scene with contemporary accounts. you’ll probably emerge onto the magnificent Broad Walk. The most famous feature of the palace gardens. Close by stands the Wren-built Lower Orangery. Pubs King’s Arms Lion Gates. The Triumphs of Caesar. Fanning out from the Broad Walk is the Fountain Garden. grown from a cutting in 1768 by Bushy Park Bushy Park is the perfect place to escape the crowds and head off into the semi-wilderness. is the palace’s celebrated Great Vine. protected by glass. Painted around 1486 for the Ducal Palace in Mantua. wood panelling and mosaic floor tiles combine to recreate the feel of a Georgian coaching inn. established here by Henry VIII – if you’re lucky. laid out in 1714. Bare SWANS IN BUSHY PARK bricks. these heroic paintings are among his best works. created in 1949. Mantegna’s home town.To the south of the palace is the more formal Privy Garden (£3. Off to the west of Chestnut Avenue. it’s worth heading off to the Waterhouse Woodland Gardens. a grand. Further along. characterized by an accomplished use of perspective and an obsessive interest in archeological and historical accuracy. Popular pub food and Badger beers. home to copious herds of fallow and red deer. The Pond Gardens. Hampton Court Road. now a dimly lit gallery for Andrea Mantegna’s luminous richly coloured masterpiece.Wren’s mile-long royal road. feature some of the gardens’ most spectacularly colourful flowerbeds. Capability Brown and averaging about seven hundred bunches of Black Hamburg grapes per year. which runs along Wren’s austere east front and is lined with superbly maintained herbaceous borders. you might catch a game of this arcane precursor of modern tennis. azaleas and camellias are in bloom. free with palace ticket).
Accommodation Contents Accommodation .
Accommodation Contents Accommodation .
hotelsengland. therefore. B&Bs and hostels Compared with most European cities. In upmarket hotels – particularly those in or near the City – prices are significantly higher during the week. Doubles from £165.bhrc. particularly if you want to stay in one of the more popular places. followed closely behind by the official YHA (wwww. Melbourne House Hotel 79 Belgrave Rd t020/7828 3516.210) operate a room-booking service.uk) desks at Heathrow (t020/8564 8808). rooms are well insulated from outside noise and the breakfasts are epic. payment is made directly to the hotel on checking out. Pristine shared facilities. Most offices are open daily from 6am till midnight. Family run.co.org.co. There are also British Hotel Reservation Centre (BHRC. wwww. you shouldn’t expect much change out of £100 a night.melbournehousehotel. Booking a room London doesn’t really have a low season.com. full English breakfast is included. all London tourist offices (see p. ACCOMMODATION Hotels. Even the most basic B&Bs struggle to bring their tariffs below £50 for a double with shared facilities.fullershotels . too. hotel close to Parliament. Thomas Cook has accommodation desks at Gatwick Airport (t01293/529372) and will book anything from youth hostels through to fivestar hotels for a £5 fee. If you book by phone.visitlondon. wwww . accommodation in London is expensive.uk) places. excellent communal areas and friendly service. Doubles from £85.lastminute . though things do slacken off a little in the months just after Christmas. for which around £5 is levied. wwwwcityinn. Other useful websites include wwww.uk.com.com. to try and book your accommodation in advance. all accommodation is marked on the maps in this chapter. It’s wise. many places will ask for a credit card number. Unless otherwise stated. and wwww. in smart. and discounts can be excellent. and there’s no booking fee. The best-value near Victoria station. and you’re more likely to find yourself paying £60 to £70 or more. which almost always offers discounts. Breakfast is extra. Doubles from £85. modern. and Gatwick (t01293/502433) airports.yha.The cheapest option is a dorm bed at one of the numerous independent hostels. Vast. Contents Accommodation . Doubles from £50. well furnished place. Sanctuary House Hotel 33 Tothill St t020/7799 4044. In addition. while a few may even ask for a deposit.co. others for written or faxed confirmation. Oxford House Hotel 92–94 Cambridge St t020/7834 6467. pseudoVictoriana.com.197 Hotels. and several in and around Victoria train station (t020/7828 2425). and decked out like one. You can also book online for free at wwww. B&Bs and hostels Westminster City Inn 30 John Islip St t020/7630 1000. For a decent hotel room. offering clean and bright en-suite rooms. wwww. Situated above a Fuller’s pub.uk. If you’re stuck.
GROV E RDENS ER GA L EINST CL EV R A ED S T R E G U S S E X A R D E PADDINGTON E AV N RO AD S LA S 10 GLOUCESTER SQUARE SUSSEX SQUARE 12 E CH PS TO W VIL LAS PEMBRIDGE V IL CR CRA BAYSWATER S CO W R OA D VE NH ILL KE NS ING TO N E R ID G PEM B A R E SQU MO QUEENSWAY B A Y PA RK S LANCASTER GATE E T A W R O R B LAD ROKE R D RD NOTTI NG HIL L E G AT 15 L STR Kensington Palace Serpentine Gallery 17 NS DE AR EG OR LK LIM WA PHIL ND LLA HO N H OLLA D ST PH STANFORD RD N KE N SI O GT AB ING ILL IM OR E L WA N ALL GH H I HIGH ST K S VICTORIA ROAD TR T EE K E PALACE GAT E N S I N G T O N Royal Albert Hall NS OR PR IN CE CO S E N ’ Q U E T RD KENSINGTON EN T H E 16 D R O A LEXH ENS AM G AR D R C W O C M W E L R O L GLOUCESTER ROAD NS HA A D Natural History Museum GTON HARRIN RD ER N K R O A Earl’s Court PE D N T OUR SC RL’ ARE EA SQU O L FU S DEN GAR ON D BOLT LH LE CA YW Contents Accommodation IX W RD A IC EARL’S COURT T B R O M P 25 N TO AY DR GS OW SL ON M OR W O TH A T R RR R R N S EN RD GA O A TO IN G AR NG DE D SOUTH A KENSINGTON O 20 R 22 SU M NE R PELHAM ST D ST M P TO B R O SY DN EY N CORNWA L L GARDEN S Science Museum R I N G PL. KEN S TE DEN S GAR ICK G H NSW RC BRU ACE KENS LK WA AD BRO INGT ON N CHU ST ST EE A D R O T TO I T I O N E X H I B R S T E G L O U C E DON ROA D R O A D E A E G A T R L ’ S O R O U R A D PL . TON SING KEN T LS T PEE DEN S P CAM RD GS FO BED L H I K e n s in g t o n G a r d e n s Victoria & Albert Museum N S N GL O D G E O R A D W CHE P E S P O RC T W A W Y ES E T 6 PRINCE AL B E RT ROAD ST VALE ACCOMMODATION 30 King Henry’s Road 1 Melbourne House 5 Maddox Street 11 Metropolitan Abbey House 16 Morgan House Paddington Aster House 22 Oxford House Recreation GroundOxford Street YHA Durrants 4 Edward Lear 8 PavilionMAIDA VALE Five Sumner Place 20 Portobello Holland House YHA 17 U E Ritz S H I R Hotel 167 L 25E N Sloane A V3 N Hotel La PlaceD Topham’s N E A V International Vicarage A N I D Students House R O 2 WigmoreACourt N G L L A E Leinster Inn 10 D Windermere ER TH Lincoln House 5 Woodville House SU LA 0 GR O V E 500 yds W D OO W EL LI NG AD TO N N RO A RD R H K A M IL D EN RA TO ND R N RO OL O TE A EN PH M AI DA D RR AV A CE UE VA LE E D G W A R E R O R O A A D D TB O EA H ES U RN ST STOW T ER BO E UR L ED E R NE TE TE BUR A Y RO D N D E M P C A ROA D HO RN RR A RR T RD . Paddington Station P WE NE S T BO UR ER LEINST SQ. CE A E R R A Y E N S W Q U E C E NESS ROA PA L TERR A D ACE ENS ARD CE G PA L A TON S IN G RR. O A D N LTO BO PL. B&Bs and hostels ACCOMMODATION H A R R OW WARWICK AVENUE BL O Rege n t’s C a n a l MF IE L D LITTLE VENICE RO A D BL OM FIE LD FR RO AM 23 14 19 26 9 6 12 13 21 18 15 7 24 19 RN Lord’s Cricket Ground 'S W OO D RO AD RK PA AD BU KIL ST JO HN L ST ON I S S O N AD PT PE NF OL D S T B A RO DL EY EDGWARE BE L L ROAD BI INVER EL S AN BOT TAL D ROA HER EFO ROYAL OAK ROW U C E I BR D P HO ’S S T R TE R.198 ’S HN JO T ST GH S HI Hotels. .
TAGU ROAD C MON TAGU MONUARE SQ N NSTO BRYA UARE SQ W A WIG E MOR E STR LA N EET CA E TS Marble Arch E T H ND D R I N G U P.B EL GR AV ES T L . G RO Wellington Arch SV CONSTITUTION HILL St James's Park BIRDC ALK AGE W WILTO KNIGHTSBRIDGE O N I L I P A V HA HA N EN OR PL BE L NS AVE GR UP . NOTTINGHAM REGENT'S PARK N TO E U S WARREN ST AD RO EUSTON SQUARE HU NT TOT T EN HA G CON N LE Y P L E R S T C E ST O U TAGU G L MON M R O E ST PORTLAND ST GRE AT DEV ON E S H IR STR EET MA AN D PL ES T CO MA RYL CL EV UR PORT EL TR E B O N E H I G H STR EET E T R E S T E Y R L ST H A E POL WIM R TERN K E B A OA INGTON S T PADD RD E STR ET W EY M O UT TR H S EET STR EET GOODGE ST RE ET UP. RT P BA HO EL RB LW NO R GS LA CE A GR U N ET BU CK IN GH AM RE E B U R Y BR ID G E R OA D CL KI ST AR © Crown copyright Contents Accommodation CH N E EN AN DO AR DR T A N S S L YCO GA TT OA . GH Coach Station Y ST A B Victoria E T H B ST EL G GE RO ST L IZ 19 ID R A V SLOANE SQUARE K I C E W AY RO CH M W I R ST LNE E E L BR EST ON PA T N LT A A ST E A T AD 23 ER O RO O N W 18 ES T AV EET STR ORIA VI C T VICTORIA Westminster PL. B ROO K ST TR K S CO G VEN ROS OR RE UI K BROO G ET STRE MA DD O ST T SQUA SOU MOU NT S TREE T Royal T Academy E PICCADILLY CIRCUS BR PICCADILLY CIRCUS LY IL D 13 ST C N URZO STR EE T Hyde Park CHA RL ES ST T h e S e rp e nt i S E R P E N T I N E ne D R I V E 14 D TFOR HER RICK ST B P C I CGREEN PARK A PA LL M AL L St James's Palace Green Park S O U T H R I E C A R D G R I K N I G H T S B A G E E D R I V TH E M A LL HYDE PARK CORNER N CRES . IETTA HENR Q UAR T GARE MAR ET STRE ST T ST SH EET ON SEYM OUR STRE MARBLE ARCH F O X BOND ST O DAV R NE D OXFORD CIRCUS S T R E POL E BE RW T ST S ST UR RDO K S T WA IC S ST J A ME E R E R HANOVER SQ. AC A N E S L O E ND ES ST SV GRO CADO E LACE GAN P SL O E E T S T R D R O A AN C AD OG RE SQ U A VA EC CL UX L TA CH BR OO K . OXFORD CIRCUS Y AB RN CA 9 AN T DS O A D X 11 RE W BO VE ROS ST NOR BE AK ST EW GE ST IES NT ER ST ND ST OW ER VIL SA R K P A L ES LO W NDRE SQUA LO W ST STR RE RE PA R EET ET EET BE RK EL SQ UD TH A EY UA A RE N LEY E P STR A R K ST E ET JA ME S’S NE LA ST WILTO N PL. LAN D D POR ST D O RS ET ST NEW CAV E SH NDI 5 E D G AUGH T ST STR GE OR N GE TMA T POR EY S RKEL E R BE QUAR 8 UPPE T S E 7 D FO R B LA N EET D ST 4 NE N AN QUEE ST IN RI D T REGEN O GH E US ST GO RE OD GE ST STR TLA PLAC MA N EET CHE ND MOR STR T IM ER ST ET BER NE E A C E NE W STER W B MAR Y L E MA EL E T R E S T NS LS MANCHESTER SQ. O U R T PON T S O A PL N . ELY STA N ST CA HU UR G' S PIM LIC W OA O R ST 24 N E Y N R ST G CA EOR 26 MBRID GE’S ST GE DRI ST VE OO D W A R AL DE W WA SQ RWIC UA K RE R EB DR O A D D ST SLOANE SQUARE LOWER PL. B&Bs and hostels OUTE B A N Y A L HAMPSTEAD ROAD STANH O P E S T IR C N IN ER Euston Station EUSTON R CIRCLE EV R C E STR ER R. Buckingham Palace BUCKIN RO AD BRES SE D A SR OAD GHA MG ATE R O HANS PL. EN ND P E E S Q ES T Cathedral HA Q Victoria Station S ST SH A P A RO LE R S T R E E T SS K R O A D C I R C L E LONGFO R D ST RE MO D ROA Marylebone Station V ET O N E B MARYLEBONE Y L 3 A R M C H IL D 2 Madame Tussaud’s O A BAKER ST & Planetarium R P A RK C GREAT E PL. EDGWARE R A W F O PL.1 199 Regent's Park OUTE CENTRAL LONDON – WEST ACCOMMODATION Hotels. ST RS VENDI PL. AV NE DO 21 T T P L A V ENU E EN EL CO UE YS AY TA D N A ST RO P L. R E T E E STR T A SQ BE LG RA VE L. CR UA RE E S.
wwww . patio garden and an iron and a fridge for guests to use.uk. Doubles from £120.metropolitan . The Ritz 150 Piccadilly t020/7300 2308. Doubles from £230. wwww.lincoln-house-hotel.co. as well as a laundry and a basic kitchen for guests’ use. Sumptuously furnished en-suite twins or doubles.co. and the bar is very fashionable.co.the-fielding-hotel.co. this complex of suites is all bamboo flooring and trendy minimalist decor.com. Doubles from £130. Continental breakfast (served in the rooms) is extra.uk.hazlittshotel. rooms are en suite and well equipped. kitchen and decked balcony.uk.edlear. with doormen. lovely flower boxes and a plush foyer. Lincoln House Hotel 33 Gloucester Place t020/7486 7630. wwww . Doubles from £90. wwww.uk. wwww. wwww.com.uk. traffic-free location that’s a firm favourite with visiting performers. This Georgian terrace hotel is a great exercise in Contents Accommodation . with mostly ensuite rooms and a tasty restaurant downstairs. Bow Street t020/7836 8305. wwww.uk. goodvalue place. Suites from £230. Though the rooms themselves need a bit of a makeover.manzis.com.hotellaplace.co. Great location. Hazlitt’s 6 Frith St t020/7434 1771.uk. Doubles from around £350. wwww. and full English breakfast included. lots of wood panelling and old prints. workstation. wwww .woodvillehouse.durrantshotel. Hotel La Place 17 Nottingham Place t020/7486 2323. Tastefully decorated.200 Topham’s Hotel 26 Ebury St t020/7730 8147. the low prices reflect both this and the fact that most have shared facilities. with extravagant Louis XVI interiors and air of decadent luxury. Doubles from £100. and muji foldaway bikes are available.co.theritzhotel. this is one of very few easily affordable West End hotels. This terrifyingly trendy hotel adheres to the fad for pared-down minimalism.co. Each has an open fireplace. boasting comfortable rooms en suite. Continental breakfast is included. wwww. With a very discreet entrance. Manzi’s 1–2 Leicester St t020/7734 0224. Hotels. Its Japanese restaurant is outstanding. wwww .morganhouse.co. Doubles from £75. 5 Maddox Street 5 Maddox St t020/7647 0200. In a class of its own. Charming family-owned hotel in the English countryhouse style. Soho The Fielding Hotel 4 Broad Court. Small. Wood panelling gives this Georgian B&B a ship’s cabin feel.uk & wwww.5maddoxstreet. wwww. Marylebone Durrants Hotel George St t020/7935 8131.co. quietly stylish place. period-piece nostalgia. Rooms maintain the opulent French theme. Better than average Georgian B&B.co.uk. Two aboveaverage B&Bs. No. wwww .uk. the en-suite rooms are equipped with lots of gadgets and comfortably furnished. Woodville House & Morgan House 107 & 120 Ebury St t020/7730 1048 & 7730 2384. although noise might prove to be a nuisance. Doubles from £140. offering en-suite rooms decorated as close to period style as convenience and comfort allow. B&Bs and hostels ACCOMMODATION Piccadilly and Mayfair The Metropolitan Old Park Lane t020/7447 1000. Early eighteenth-century hotel of real character and charm.co. Doubles from £65. since it’s just a few yards from the Royal Opera House.uk. Edward Lear Hotel 28–30 Seymour St t020/7402 5401. Doubles from £70.com. run by the same vivacious couple. wwww.tophams. Above a restaurant of the same name.windermere-hotel. Doubles from £80. Quiet. Great breakfasts. TV. Windermere Hotel 142–144 Warwick Way t020/7834 5163.wigmore-court-hotel. Wigmore Court Hotel 23 Gloucester Place t020/7935 0928. Breakfast is extra. Doubles from around £250.
Very fashionable. wwww.crescenthoteloflondon.com. Doubles from £85. Smartly kept. Very smart place popular with business folk. off Tavistock Place t020/7388 7666. Dorm beds for around £20. oodles Contents Accommodation . Service is excellent. twins from £50.co. wood and crystal. twins from £50. though still a sociable. Huge. with luxurious bathrooms. doubles from £45. a very pleasant library and a sushi restaurant.com.201 Doubles from £70.uk. doubles from £25.uk. wwww. Breakfast included.ridgemounthotel. Oxford Street YHA 14 Noel St t020/7734 1618. Doubles from £50. free hot-drinks machine and a laundry service. air-conditioned rooms. Eoxfordst@yha.lemeridien.co. clean and friendly hostel in a converted office block.the-generator. wwww. with small. wwww. myhotel 11–13 Bayley St.ashleehouse.uk.thanethotel . Doubles from £130. with small rooms – half with shared facilities – a garden. Basic. Rooms are clean. Internet access and breakfast included. Breakfast is included. air-conditioned dorms and private rooms. Comfortable and tastefully decorated B&B. and there are two lovely patio gardens. triple-glazed. Quiet Astor hostel (for under 30s).astorhostels. Ashlee House 261–265 Gray’s Inn Rd t020/7833 9400. this lateVictorian landmark fully retains its period atmosphere in all its public areas. Doubles from £95.com. minimalist luxury hotel with underwater music in the hotel pool. Crescent Hotel 49–50 Cartwright Gardens t020/7387 1515. wwww . with a lovely blacked-up range in the breakfast room. Old-fashioned. Covent Garden One Aldwych 1 Aldwych t020/7300 1000. Museum Inn 27 Montague St t020/7580 5360. A real bargain. Dorms from £25. Hotel Cavendish 75 Gower St t020/7636 9079. but a large kitchen. most of which are en suite. St Pancras YHA 79–81 Euston Rd t020/7388 9998 email@example.com. double-glazed. TV lounge. very friendly family-run place.onealdwych. All rooms are en suite.co.uk. Doubles from £50. family-run B&B close to the British Museum. Bedford Square t020/7667 6000. The West End location and modest size mean booking ahead is essential here.org .hotelcavendish. Dorms from £25.co. Cash only. Doubles from £90.com. friendly. Big hostel with very clean. All rooms have shared facilities.demon. Dorms from £15. Doubles from £220.com. Hotel Russell Russell Square t020/7837 6470. Small. From its grand 1898 exterior to its opulent interiors of marble. if not necessarily to its style. some even en suite. all with en-suite showers and tea.and coffee-making facilities. family-run place with just fourteen fairly small but wellequipped rooms. wwww . No café. Jenkins Hotel 45 Cartwright Gardens t020/7387 2067. laid-back place with a small kitchen. a gym. B&Bs and hostels Bloomsbury The Academy 21 Gower St t020/7631 4115.uk. funky hostel tucked away down a cobbled street.theetoncollection. bright. with welcoming owners.jenkinshotel . but it’s a bargain. No bar. wwww . Dorms from around £15. Generator Compton Place.uk. Doubles from £180. Rooms live up to the grandeur of the lobby. a lovely walled garden and some quite well-preserved original features. all rooms are air-conditioned.uk. ACCOMMODATION Hotels.co. wwww . wwww. The post-industrial decor may not be to everyone’s taste. bright and freshly decorated. Feng shui hotel.org. set in a lovely Georgian house. Thanet Hotel 8 Bedford Place t020/7636 2869.co. Ridgemount Hotel 65–67 Gower St t020/7636 1141. wwww. wwww. The same people run the neighbouring Pickwick hostel. wwww .
RO G ER ST T NS JOH RUSSELL SQUARE RE OU GT OR MO ND E L L N W C L E R K E TU R BR GE OD GO T S AV BLOOMSH SQ. LA FARRINGDON GAR DEN WCROSS ST CO C L NE A N E W L A FETTER . TT ST WILMINGTON SQ. FIT ZA DR I V E W ST HI LA N NK LIP VA Tate Britain ST W LA M IN LA CO EMBA L W ALK HN S STR E ALBERT V AUX H A L L TYER KE PIMLICO VA U X Contents Accommodation NE KENNINGTON KE O K ST D WB UR Y VA UX N NN HB RO ER HAL ST OA NI M IN TA C I DG 30 RO A D NG T GT JO BR IN CE ET ST O N ON HA IL LB A IS UX BL TT AC ST K LL PR LA NE BLACKFRIARS BR. B&Bs and hostels ACCOMMODATION NG N STO EU O RD GO 3 T RP DS EN ES 5 EN A S S GH LEI 4 T PL. OOM N TONE VIA GRE OR ETS BL DU WH LB TOTTENHAM CT HOLBORN Lincoln’s Inn HO COURT ROAD NEW OXFORD ST H Fields IG ST ST GILES H ST Lincoln’s EN O XF O R D H IGH ST GS Inn SOHO T’S SQ. D TER BURY SQ. 9 GOODGE 11 ST RE 7 RU ET ST E SS LL D ST NAR BER 6 UA GU ILF OR D EE STR ST T M OUNT P LEA SA NT O S E EUSTON SQUARE GO W ER ST T LE TAVISTOCK SQUARE GORDON SQUARE T LT AV Coram’s Fields HO OC IS T K TON N E R ST ST KING'S CROSSST PANCRAS ST King’s Cross Station T DS EA NH KE BIR E N V I L L P E N T O KI CR O S S R O A D CLAREMONT SQ. ST RD ST H GERRA LISLE T AF B ES UR Y LO N N PTO G COVENT GARDEN DW S T R A Temple TUDOR ST LEICESTER SQUARE Covent ER ET T EX S 22 BLACKFRIARS TEMPLE E N T N K M B A Blackfriars Station OLD BAILEY FETT E R QU E GT EV ER SH OL T ST HU NT Y TO N N ST S T G RE M AL RO J R JU CU A O HT RIG RTW CAG A R D DD ST RE ET A Y D BI H N ' S F A S GE RID DB OO W ST ONT CHM MAR CA POM R EN P HO T R DO I N I R UG N IX WO BU RN . PL AY DW ST E P G HT BE DF N D E T T YS OR O ST DUIT CON B’S LAM N R O R ITT ST LEAT NM A D O A ON H AT T ST ILL HER L ST ELL R OW SW ON BO PT ST D TO TT N MA NEW ST 10 ES T ET S L. MYDDELTON SQ. EX V M MO E N AR UT NOR U K H TH E AM ET RD P EUSTON N O S T GS E U LEIGH T NS . SQ R O A G BO BID ASTIN H LLOYD BAK ER ST Euston Station British Library ET St Pancras Station HS D 2 ROUG S ST ’S T 1 ON S T ARG Y L E S T T S W IN T ON S ACT T ON S ON ART WH T CY S PER LLOYD ST SQ. SS YS ELL Y DA CIRCUS HO HIGH RC RU SS BUR OR LBO PE RU DF S PK RN AT BE LIT. OR Y LUDGATE SH 17 18 LA E T S T R E E T CIRCUS FLE 20 N E SEVEN D C DIALS N CH ST Y A T ES OR ST SQ PL. TH EN RED AM HA M CO CHANCERY LANE S OU L IO N ST UR T RO AD R FARR INGD RIDE B T ST ST S E S H O E LAN CH ST AN CE KIN RY ON LAN GS D R CHA U WA E NE R DEA ST R OU T RD S W A WICK BER AL EK GREST RING Y ST T HS FRIT T NS RE ET CR OS D S RO A E IDG BR H AT F IELD R CO ST WH NW HO R UARD S SE G R OAD ITE ALL HAL L RD W A TE R O R O A D G T S M ITH ST I N G T O N NN K E RE ET M A R S H A M ST NK HO REGENCY R O A D .202 PE NT RIS ON E Hotels. CH AL TO OS SU LS L. CHARING CROSS EMBANKMENT V I C T O R I A PA A D E R O WAT ED ER B EL V TH WATERLOO KR Y OR St James’s Park BIRDC TY P ET CE N F RA R OAD WESTMINSTER PARLIAMENT SQUARE County 27 Hall 28 Waterloo Station W ER TH LO W U E C OA T IS ALK AGE W TOT HILL ST GT GEORGE ST TH PA LA CE C A R L ISLE L A. T REGEN SQ. D P ER C IVAL B E R Y R TO RI N O GT R N PL . UE AG NT MO British RY BU MS OO BL 12 13 14 BEDFORD SQUARE Museum E T HRED LION A OB LD 'S RO AD Gray’s Inn Gardens POOL P O RT . DP OR ST DF UE BE AG NT MO ON A. HE R CU LE SR D 29 ST JAMES’S E E T PARK S T R IA OR VICT ROW Westminster Abbey MILLBA Houses of Parliament RO AD W BA ES TM YL WESTMI N STER BRID G E M AR S H E UF B B E R ST RD FO BLACKFRIAR S AD E M A LL SOUTHWARK RD D ROAD PO - Charing Cross Station South Bank Centre ERLO O UP PE D UN R GR O ST AM FO RD ST 25 LO IN LAMBETH NORTH ST TER STREET GR E A T P E SMITH SQUARE E R B R I D GE RO A D ST GE OR GE 'S ST GEORGE’S CIRCUS L AM Lambeth Palace H ET MB LA BE RO AD RO TER Imperial War Museum BR OO K HES ROC LK S EFERRY PAGE ROAD S T REET G H ST NT M NKME V INCENT ST STREET B ET H BE VINCENT SQUARE TH OLD PARA D ST IS E A LAMBETH BR. F RI EN R IS HAR Y M O ELT DD SKI N T NS T CER S SPEN NORTHAMPTON SQ. UE EN RE S EW BR S ER OL DC OM AL 23 LEICESTER SQ. PICCADILLY 24 CIRCUS PICCADILLY National Garden T S CIRCUS T KE AR YM HA ST NT GE RE LL M A Gallery R A N D E M LOO TER WA ST JAMES’S SQUARE LL COCKSPUR ST TRAFALGAR SQ. R N HOLBORN HOLB W. T FIEL AR ITH CH LS HOLBO ORN SM ST WAY EL T V.
B&Bs and hostels COLUMB IA RO ARF AH AM ROA D T OST S RDES S ST WA LK N I LE S T A D SON G A T E BEEC RE H ST BARBICAN Barbican Centre TE WIL SUN ST AP LL ST PO 8 CHARTERHOUSE SQUARE ET CHISWE FINSBURY SQUARE ST ST LD GILTSP UR ST NEW GAT E ST AM BR GR OA Museum of London ESH L O N D O N RGA - P S MOO D ST O H B St Paul’s Cathedral 21 REE T D ST PAUL'S ST S T OL DLE ADNEE I ST R CH AC E CHU GR IDGE SOUTH WAR K BR BAN K SI D E Cannon St Station ST O N E Y S LONDON BRIDGE R ID G E ROAD ER B STRE E T WAY E T H I G H COPPERF IELD S T RED G E NEW 26 COME C RO SS R O A D SS U N I O N S S T REET RS MA T LONDON Bridge BRIDGE ST T Station HO MA T E R O O L E TR E Y TOW K LAN ST T ST RE ET S T R E E T AR D B R I D G E SOUTH WA O B R R O U L O G ID S T E BOROUGH GR IT N G TA N N E R L IN ST R E J AM EW AY BOROUGH YW KE ROAD TR A E A M T I LS T CO CK H ST LK BR ID US CA ON N EW ING T ST O O K EN E’S T RO AD RK PE NT ON ING WN BRO ST PL AC E DU Contents Accommodation NT ON PA © Crown copyright RO HEY ES G AT RO AD T Great Eastern 15 Ridgemount 9 G Hazlitt’s A 17 The Rookery 10 O SO W U T HWARK PK RD Jenkins M A N D 3 WRussell 6 A L Mad Hatter E L A25 St KChristopher’s K Malmaison 8 Village 26 W LY Manzi’s 23 A Y Martin’s Lane 24 St N O Marriott TLondon St PancrasTYHA R O 2 ON A E A R E Hall D 27 Sanctuary House 29D County ST ST EA Museum Inn 13 Seven Dials 18 myhotel 14 Thanet 12 One Aldwych 22 Threadneedles 19 W IL P L AD W AL ELEPHANT & CASTLE CK I N HA RO M NG E G N EW ACCOMMODATION Academy 11 Ashlee House 1 Cavendish H AM S T 7 City Hotel C H AT 16 O DN EY City Inn R O 30 AD City of London YHA 21 County Hall Travel Inn 28 Crescent R E E T 5 FieldingS T 20 S T Generator 4 E A BR AN N FL I T K G N GOSSET ST L L W E O S G R E AT O S UFF OR B AT H ST ARNOLD CIRCUS STRE Smithfield E T L IN LIT ITA BR KING EDWARD ST QUEEN VIC T O R IA R CA N N O ST N ST R E STREET ET MANSION U P P E R T H A M E S HOUSE S TRE ET MILLENNIUM BRIDGE SO U T HW ARK TH A D R O ST Tate Modern ET RN ST RE ET BET H N A L GR EE N RD T C H E S H I RE S BUN H IL L AD CITY RO SHOREDITCH B R I C K QUA KER S T BUXT O N S T WH LDE AN E N L RO W ITEC R OSS S T WORSHIP STR EET CO ALDERSGA T E S TR E E T M PRIM ROSE ST M ERC H A N B U R Y S TR E E L T T EE IAL S T R E LD ON Liverpool St Station S T A B RUS H F I E LD S T LIVERPOOL LIV ER POO 15 STREET M LS T FASHION ST N E MOORGATE FINSBURY CIRCUS ID N BOR OS ST W A L L E X WE ST N T WO R T H ST 16 DL HO UN ALDGATE EAST ES TON ULS GO REE Bank of England ALDGATE H C H E BANK A P S I D E WAT L I N G ST EET ST E 19 THR CORNHILL LO M BA CANNON R D S T Lloyd’s Building LEA DE N H A L L S T E W GAT ALD H ST H IG EL AP ECH ST HIT AM BR AH T HS HIG FEN C H U RC H ST Fenchurch St Station TOWER HILL DS DI TC ST LEM MA NSELL AN MINO RIES ST RE ET T ST MIN TOWER GATEWAY STR RO YA L EET MONUMENT L O W E R TH AME S S T BY RD ST WA T O W E R H I LL PA RK STREE River Th ames Tower of London EA S TS M I T H FI E L D ST KAT HA R Southwark Cathedral London City Hall I NE ’S WA Y T T ET GA IN S NS T S N OWS F I E L D S WES D S FOR ST R E EY ET DS ON RM BE DS SE R T T HA U R L E L N ST TO G E O RGE ROW T IC A N RO MA L Y ST E AD EA T TBY TA BA STREE ABBEY ST G RA N G T H AR D RD ST O V PE R R E W GRA ER 0 ALK W S PA RE 500 yds ROAD R ON ND LO RD S ET TR ER D EE AD R T O LD WA EN LW OR TH T R DO T TS T NS RO AD .203 WH SH EP HE HALL ST E AST R O AD HOXT ON S T KI N GS L A ND R PITFIELD S T AND REL MO EY ST ST TON R O A S HOR D CUR GT S IN FER DUF TA B E ED UTT O T NS BA ST SC R U T T O N ST ITC N RNA NER TAIN GE T ES D O L GO E T R E S T ST CLE STR EE T PA U L S T R E ET L E O N A RD STREET TE R H HI G H ST SEW ROAD ST ARD E ET LEV ER STR EET ST T OR S RADN OLD STREET E T TRE D S OL GR EA TE AS A H CK N R O A D CEN TRAL RO C I T Y OAD AD GR PROV MURR AY GROV E CENTRAL LONDON – EAST ACCOMMODATION Hotels.
the en-suite rooms have TV and tea/coffee-making facilities. Pleasant. wwww. family-run hotel in an outstanding location.uk.fullershotels.com.com.co.com.com. spa.org.uk. Threadneedles 5 Threadneedle St t020/7657 8080. The Victorian red-brick facade gives way to modern. wwww .uk. Mad Hatter 3–7 Stamford St t020/7401 9222. Magnificent for- Contents Accommodation .uk. South Bank London County Hall Travel Inn Belvedere Rd t020/7902 1619. Docklands Four Seasons Hotel Canary Wharf 46 Westferry Circus t020/7510 1999.cityhotellondon. understated decor in muted tones. pool. The City City of London YHA 36 Carter Lane t020/7236 4965. with the startling Light Bar and the sushi Sea Bar on site. with every mod con from plasma TV screens to cordless digital telephones. wwww. wwww. ecity@yha. now converted into a boutique hotel. weekend deals are good and the location is great. Selfconsciously chic “boutique hotel” from the New York-based Ian Schrager chain. tennis courts and the option of taking the boat into town. Expensive and plush County Hall hotel. wwww. twins from £50. four-person rooms are a bargain for families or small groups. The Rookery 12 Peter’s Lane. but the County Hall location is pretty good. St Martin’s Lane 45 St Martin’s Lane t020/7300 5500 or 0800/634 5500.uk. This venerable late-nineteenth-century station hotel has had a minimalist makeover. Doubles from £265.infotel. See map on p. clean and modern with plainly decorated en-suite rooms. wwww.travelinn.ianschragerhotels.marriott. Doubles from around £200. Spacious.theetoncollection. Crowded.co. Doubles from £75. fitness centre. some with kitchens. Doubles from £150.fourseasons. Cowcross Street t020/7336 0931. Marriott London County Hall Hotel County Hall t020/7928 5200.co.rookeryhotel. Seven Dials Hotel 7 Monmouth St t020/7681 0791. wwww . and TVs in the bathrooms. wwww. wwww. Doubles from £175.com. No river views at these prices.204 of modern art. with the majority of rooms offering river views (many have small balconies too).uk. Smithfield and Clerkenwell Malmaison Charterhouse Square t020/7012 3700. Rooms from £80.com. Doubles from around £150 at the weekend.136. Great Eastern Hotel Liverpool St t020/7618 5010. 200-bed hostel opposite St Paul’s Cathedral.co. Situated above a pub on the corner of Blackfriars Road. wwww. A spectacular riverfront setting. Rambling Georgian town house that makes a fantastically discreet little hideaway. small. but the flat-rate rooms are a bargain. modern take on the Baroque period. Doubles from around £150. Decor is a deliciously camp. Breakfast is extra. ultra-modern interiors. mer Midland Bank building. Doubles from £85. Dorms from £25. Doubles start around £250. yet manages to retain much of its clubby flavour. Doubles from £165.malmaison . wwww. B&Bs and hostels ACCOMMODATION Hoxton and Spitalfields City Hotel 12 Osborn St t020/7247 3313. Rooms from around £225. Decor and ambience are functional. Hotels.co.great -eastern-hotel. Full-size indoor pool and well-equipped gym. well-equipped rooms have enormous beds and the restaurant is very good.
uk.com. Sloane Hotel 29 Draycott Place t020/7581 5757. Ideally located B&B with clean rooms (some with shared facilities).com. all rooms are en suite and breakfast is served in the lovely conservatory. Cash only. wwww .co. Dorms from £10. with a party atmosphere.205 Bankside and Southwark St Christopher’s Village 161–165 Borough High St t020/7407 1856. Elegant Victorian hotel with individually designed double rooms of varying sizes and prices. Vicarage Hotel 10 Vicarage Gate t020/7229 4030. Doubles from £75.com. Breakfast is included and there’s a restaurant and 24hr bar.co. wwww . wwww. Pleasant. Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens Leinster Inn 7–12 Leinster Square t020/7229 9641. with upbeat. double glazing and fridges in all rooms. B&Bs and hostels High Street Kensington to Notting Hill Abbey House 11 Vicarage Gate t020/7721 7395. Doubles from £90. Dorms from around £20. Hotel 167 167 Old Brompton Rd t020/7373 3221. stylishly furnished B&B with en-suite facilities. there’s a lovely garden at the back and a large conservatory. Doubles from £230.portobello-hotel. the most expensive overlooking the private gardens. cheerful decor and a party-animal ambience. also a fab roof terrace for breakfast (which costs extra). Idyllically situated in the wooded expanse of Holland Park. and a full English breakfast included. Portobello Hotel 22 Stanley Gardens t020/7727 2777. twins from £55.com. with outrageously over-the-top decor and every room individually themed. Handsome Victorian terraced house B&B Contents Accommodation .msi. Holland House YHA Holland Walk t020/7937 0748 ehollandhouse@yha. Efficiently run hostel. Discreetly luxurious B&B in a pretty white-stuccoed terrace.hotel167. Inexpensive Victorian B&B in a quiet street just north of Kensington High Street.com. wwww.st-christophers. Knightsbridge and Chelsea Aster House 3 Sumner Place t020/7581 5888.co. Rooms are large and bright – prices are kept down by sharing facilities.uk.astorhostels. Doubles from around £140 a night. wwww. wwww.uk. ACCOMMODATION Hotels. wwww .com.londonvicaragehotel. Doubles from £160. wwww.uk. wwww .asterhouse. wwww . The Pavilion Hotel 34–36 Sussex Gardens t020/7262 0905. this extensive hostel offers a decent kitchen and an inexpensive café. There’s Regent’s Park and Camden 30 King Henry’s Road 30 King Henry’s Road t020/7483 2871. Dorms from £15.com. The successful rock star’s home from home. maintained to a very high standard by its attentive owners. Discreet hotel hidden in a terrace of red-brick mansions. Doubles from £80. South Kensington.sumnerplace. Biggest and liveliest of the Astor hostels for under 30s. Full English breakfast. Doubles from £100. where breakfast is served. Cash only. twins from £45. sumptuously stuffed full of antiques.abbeyhousekensington. Small.mt/pavilion. Five Sumner Place 5 Sumner Place t020/7584 7586.sloanehotel. firstname.lastname@example.org. nonsmoking B&B in a luxurious white-stuccoed street. Continental buffet-style breakfast is served in the attractive morning room/reception. Doubles from £130.
with its own garden and the wilds of Hampstead Heath nearby. Doubles from around £100.hampsteadguesthouse.uk. with a walled garden. Dorms from £20. wwww. wwww. wwww.com.176–7. Doubles from £75. Hotels. Langorf Hotel 20 Frognal t020/7794 4483. Hampstead Heath YHA 4 Wellgarth Rd t 020/8458 9054. Hampstead Village Guesthouse 2 Kemplay Rd t020/7435 8679. Doubles from £100.org.ish.org.langorfhotel. stead@yha. Large and wellappointed hostel. B&Bs and hostels ACCOMMODATION Hampstead and Highgate The places listed below appear on the map on pp. Hundreds of beds in a vast complex at the southern end of Regent’s Park. International Students House 229 Great Portland St t020/7631 8300.uk.com. Pristinely maintained. Rooms (not all en suite) have “lived-in” clutter. resident dog and a real homely feel. Lovely B&B in an old house set in a quiet backstreet near the Heath. twins from £45. ehamp- Contents Accommodation . Beds from around £15.206 with spacious rooms. tastefully decorated hotel in a trio of red-brick Victorian mansions.
Essentials Contents Essentials .
Essentials Contents Essentials .
uk) train runs non-stop between the South Terminal and Victoria Station (every 15–30min. you’ll come into one of London’s numerous main-line stations. Arrival By train and coach Eurostar ( t 0870/160 6600. and have tube stations close at hand.baa.com) is roughly 30 miles north of London. and the city’s train and bus terminals are all pretty central. A taxi ride into central London will set you back £90 or more. you’ll have to take night bus #N9 to Trafalgar Square (every 30min. and is connected by shuttle-bus with Canning Town tube (every 5min. 1hr) for a bargain fare of £1.greenline. A taxi into central London will cost around £75. 50min) for £3. and take at least an hour. 15–20min) for £13 each way or £25 return (£2 more if you buy your ticket on board). and another for terminal 4. 30–40min) for £10 single. £15 return. and mostly handles charter flights. and is served by the Stansted Express to Liverpool Street (every 15–30min.50).com) run buses from Heathrow’s central bus station direct to central London’s Victoria Coach Station (every 30min. Luton airport ( t 01582/405100.london-luton. w www.co. £21. connected by Thameslink trains to King’s Cross and other stations (every 15min.uk). Green Line buses (t 0870/608 7261. A taxi will cost around £70 and take at least an hour to reach central London. 5min.go-by-coach. 10min. £6). ESSENTIALS By plane Heathrow Airport (t 0870/000 0123. 1hr).com) trains arrive at Waterloo International station in central London. w www. and Liverpool Street (every 10min. w www. all of Contents Essentials . costing £8 single.gatwickexpress. It handles European flights only.uk). 15 miles west of central London. Airbus #6 also runs 24 hours a day to Victoria Coach Station (every 30min. is situated nine miles east of central London in the Docklands area.50 return. w www. A taxi will cost £45 to central London.50 return. tickets for either cost £10 single.209 Arrival London’s international airports are all less than an hour from the city centre. After midnight. just east of the centre and linked to the tube network. while Airbus #2 (t 0870/574 7777) runs from outside all four Heathrow terminals to several destinations in the city (every 30min.co. National Express (t 0870/580 8080.co. connected by a monorail. If you plan to make several journeys on your arrival day. £15 return. The Gatwick Express (t 0870/ 530 1530.baa. 30min. has two terminals. £3).210) rather than a single-destination ticket. Canary Wharf (every 10min. 1hr 15min). which costs £13 single. buy a Travelcard (see p. Arriving by train ( t 0845/748 4950.baa. w www .co. North and South. Cheaper but slower is the Piccadilly Underground line into central London (every 5–9min.uk) travels non-stop to Paddington Station (every 15min. The Heathrow Express (t 0845/600 1515. £20 return.eurostar.co. 1hr 30min).uk) from elsewhere in Britain. w www. £11. 45min). 1hr). £2. A taxi into the city’s financial sector will cost around £20 and take half an hour or so. w www.70 one-way. 30 miles to the south. and costs £10 single. 30min) for £11 single. A free shuttle-bus takes five minutes to transport passengers to Luton Airport Parkway station.co. 2 and 3. and take an hour (longer in the rush hour). while boat trains from Harwich arrive at Liverpool Street.uk) lies 35 miles northeast. Alternatively. and take at least an hour.uk) run from Luton to Victoria Station (every 30min. has four terminals and is served by two train/tube stations: one for terminals 1.londoncityairport. w www. Trains from the Channel ports arrive at the equally central Charing Cross or Victoria.co. City airport ( t 020/7646 0000. w www. Stansted ( t 0870/000 0303. w www. Gatwick (t 0870/000 2468.heathrowexpress.com).nationalrail. £23 return. the capital’s smallest. w www.
with constantly updated news and listings.thisislondon. Individual London boroughs also run tourist offices. films.gov.30pm. Sat & Sun 10am–4pm. restaurant reviews.visitbritain .co. Websites w www. large or small. Docklands Light Rail- Contents Essentials . guided walks and events in and around the capital. or from one of the more comprehensive Transport for London (TfL) travel information offices. Sun 9.com Website of The Evening Standard. music. w www.30am–1. tube.co.30pm. and inside Richmond’s Old Town Hall (Mon–Fri 10am–5pm. at Piccadilly Circus tube station (daily 8. sport. t 020/7808 3864. London’s only daily newspaper.uk Type in the London address you want and this site will locate it for you in seconds.20). t 0870/608 2000). w www. The London Visitor Centre.30am–5pm. and some buses get so full they won’t let you on. run by the capital’s own tourist board. Travelcards To get the best value out of the public transport system. 2. w www. and Euston. avoid travelling during the rush hour (Mon–Fri 8–9. near Piccadilly Circus at 1 Regent Street (Mon–Fri 9am–6. drinking and nightlife.30am–10. t 020/7332 1456).210 which have adjacent Underground stations linking into the city centre’s tube network.co.30am–5pm. w www.30pm. w www. Information • City transport ESSENTIALS Information The main tourist office is the Britain and London Visitor Centre. You can get a free transport map from any tube station. you’re most likely to arrive at Victoria Coach Station. cinema and theatre listings.londonnet. w www.uk Up-todate information on virtually every single museum. shows. published every Tuesday afternoon. a Travelcard is valid for the bus. the most useful of which are: on the south side of St Paul’s Cathedral (May–Sept daily 9.uk A virtual guide to London with useful up-to-date listings on eating.com). plus local gossip and messageboards.myvillage. In it you’ll find details of all the latest exhibitions.visitlondon . For “what’s on” information. Coming into London by coach (t 0870/580 8080. buy a Travelcard.com).uk). w www.45am–6pm). buy the weekly listings magazine Time Out (£2.tfl. is in Waterloo International train station (Mon–Sat 8.24hourmuseum. Available from machines and booths at all tube and train stations (and at some newsagents as well). If you can. giving club.com). Easter–Sept also Sat & Sun 10. City transport London’s transport network is among the most complex and expensive in the world. w www. Oxford Circus and St James’s Park (Mon–Fri only) tubes.30pm.30am–10. There’s also a 24-hour phone line and a website for transport information (t 020/7222 1234. in London. King’s Cross.30am & 5–7pm) when tubes become unbearably crowded. Victoria Coach Station.com Huge site that covers every district/borough in London. in Greenwich’s old Royal Naval College (daily 10am–5pm.streetmap. Paddington and Victoria train stations. music. Oct–April Mon–Fri 9. Liverpool Street. Visit London. & 4). a couple of hundred yards south down Buckingham Palace Road from Victoria train station and tube. t 020/8940 9125).go-by-coach . there are other desks at the arrivals at Heathrow (terminals 1.
Weekend Travelcards. Greenwich and parts of the East End.30 for the central zones 1 and 2. night buses (prefixed with the letter “N”) operate outside this period. which connects the City with Docklands.210).30am. Sightseeing tours and guided walks Standard sightseeing bus tours in opentop double-deckers with live commentary are run by several rival companies. Travelcards also give you discounts on boat services (see p. Each line has its own colour and name – all you need to know is which direction you’re travelling in: northbound.50 and can be used before 9.30am on weekdays and all day during the weekend – and Peak. but if you’re intending to travel about a lot. southbound or westbound.theoriginaltour. and always establish the fare beforehand as minicabs are not metered. w www. which also has its own selection of tickets and passes. Regular buses run between about 6am and midnight. w www.211 way.40 for zones 1–6 (including Heathrow). eastbound. Day Travelcards come in two varieties: Off-Peak – which are valid after 9. you rarely have to wait more than five minutes for a train between central stations. An Off-Peak Day Travelcard costs £4. Minicabs are considerably cheaper. a Travelcard is a better bet. London’s metered black cabs are an expensive option – a ride from Euston to Victoria. The only exception is on those routes covered by older Routemaster buses. ESSENTIALS City transport The tube Except for very small journeys. Useful bus routes appear on the front-cover flap map.uk) run several buses on various routes (daily 9am–5pm. is an integral part of the tube system. a One-Day Bus Pass (zones 1–4) is also available for £2. The meter will show two amounts: one calculates distance and time. luggage and any off-peak extras – after these are totalled.com) and the Big Bus Company ( t 0800/169 1365. but can only be phoned for in advance and are something of a law unto themselves. Travelcards are valid on the DLR.30am every day.20 for zones 1 and 2. the Underground – or tube – is by far the quickest way to get about. Taxis Compared to most capital cities. unless you have a Travelcard. To order a black cab in advance. and from 7. you will be charged an on-the-spot Penalty Fare of £10. if you cannot produce a valid ticket. A single journey in the central zone costs an unbelievable £2. Fares are the same as for daytime buses and Travelcards are valid. a small tip is customary. Weekly Travelcards begin at £20. the Peak Day Travelcard starts at £5. The driverless Docklands Light Railway (see p. start at £6. valid at all times.30 for zones 1 and 2. you must buy your ticket beforehand from one of the machines by the bus stop.40 for zone 1 and 2. for example. more frequently on some routes and on Friday and Saturday nights. costs around £10. and end around 12. staffed by a Contents Essentials . Note that at request stops (easily recognizable by their red sign) you must stick your arm out to hail the bus you want (or ring the bell if you want to get off). A yellow light over the windscreen tells you if the cab is available – just stick your arm out to hail it.30am on Sundays. Night bus routes radiate out from Trafalgar Square at approximately twenty to thirtyminute intervals. more at weekends and after 8pm on weekdays. for unlimited travel on Saturdays and Sundays. rising to £5.134). Tickets must be bought in advance from the machines or booths in station entrance halls. The Original Tour ( t 020/8877 1722. Avoid taxi touts as they are illegal. every Buses Tickets for bus journeys within London cost £1. Tramlink and suburban rail networks. conductor and with an open rear platform.bigbus. In addition to the Travelcards mentioned opposite.co. phone t 020/7272 0272. while the other is the fixed charge for passengers.30am Monday to Saturday. Services operate from around 5.
alternatively. are limited to four per person. Barbican Centre Silk St t 020/7638 8891. with £30–40 the usual topwhack. Tickets under £10 are restricted to the Fringe. ICA Nash House.albemarle-london. along with the most consistent of the Off West End and Fringe venues. Royal Court Sloane Square t020/7565 5000. Shakespeare. Drill Hall 16 Chenies St t020/7307 5060. wwww.com).uk. mixing solid historical facts with juicy anecdotes in the company of a local specialist. w www.donmar-warehouse.org. Walking tours are infinitely more appealing and Informative.org. Marble Arch.uk) runs the tkts ticket booth in Leicester Square (Mon–Sat 10am–7pm.co.drillhall. w openairtheatre. Inner Circle t 020/7486 2431. The ICA attracts the most innovative practitioners in all areas of performance. Agencies such as Ticketmaster (t020/7344 4444.royalcourttheatre.uk. each attracting the country’s top actors and directors in programmes ranging from Greek tragedies to Broadway musicals.119. Earlham St t020/7369 1732. Noted for new plays and top-quality reappraisals of the classics.210). Donmar Warehouse Thomas Neal’s. feminist and politically correct new work. w www. wwww. Details of walks appear in Time Out magazine (see p.co. w www.barbican. covering a relatively small area in much greater detail. the hits outweigh the misses. courtesy of the Royal Shakespeare Company. w www.212 15–20min. This studiostyle venue specializing in gay. Trafalgar Square and other conspicuous tourist spots. Theatre The West End is the heart of London’s “Theatreland”.com. South Bank t020/7452 3000. wwww. Theatres Almeida Almeida St t 020/7359 4404.com. but add up to ten percent on the ticket price.co. w www.50 per ticket.walks. Entertainment ESSENTIALS Entertainment On any night of the week London offers a bewildering range of things to do after dark. of course. Three performance spaces. ranging from top-flight opera and theatre to clubs. Excellent new plays and excitingly reworked classics.uk. around £17) and you can get on and off as often as you like. See p.com). Sun noon–3pm). staging adventurous performances in a pint-sized room.org.co.uk) or First Call (t 020/7497 9977. Summer programme of Shakespeare.142. though they tend to be in the top end of the price range.org.ticketmaster . with Shaftesbury Avenue its most congested drag.ica. See p. National Theatre South Bank Centre. King’s Head 115 Upper St t020/7226 1916.uk. contact Original London Walks (t020/7624 3978. Open Air Theatre Regent’s Park. They cost £5 and take around two hours. w www. the box-office average is closer to £15–25.firstcalltickets. lesbian. Pick-up points include Victoria station. which sells on-the-day tickets for all the West End shows at discounts of up to fifty percent.almeida. and carry a service charge of £2. Best Contents Essentials . normally you can simply show up at the starting point and join.nationaltheatre. The oldest and probably most famous of London’s thriving pub-theatres.uk.com.officiallondontheatre. The Society of London Theatre (w www. plays and concerts. w www. The two venues here see everything from puppetry and musicals to new drama works and. can get seats for most West End shows. musicals. What follows is a list of those West End theatres that offer a changing roster of good plays. All of the shows are listed in the weekly Time Out and at w www. The Mall t020/7930 3647.
puts on smaller-scale shows.shakespearesglobe. Royal Opera House Bow St t020/7304 4000.eno. and you need to get there by 8am for popular shows.org. information t0870/7870707.org. purpose-built club in Hoxton. The chain store of comedy. box office t 020/7564 2500. Friday and Saturday are the busiest nights. Wed–Sat. Longestablished. The Place 17 Duke’s Rd t 020/7387 0031. though sell-outs are frequent (see Royal Opera House. Dance London Coliseum St Martin’s Lane t020/7632 8300.org. w www. Home of Britain’s best contemporary dance companies. with all operas sung in English. Performances here by the touring company of the English National Ballet (ENB. You should be able to get decent seats for around £25 if you buy early. w www. Sadler’s Wells Rosebery Ave t020/7863 8000.com. small-scale productions in the studio-sized Linbury Theatre. The Floral Hall hosts regular free lunchtime recitals. wwww. tucked around the back.thecomedystore. Ticket prices start from as little as £3.213 place in London to catch radical new writing. 36 Camden Lock Place.uk.50 to students and £18. wwww. doling out high quality stand-up and post-revelry disco-dancing on Fridays. and there are modestly priced.00 to senior citizens and the unemployed. day seats are also available to personal callers after 10am on the day of the performance.comedycafe. Bow St t020/7304 4000. w www. w www.org. generally hosting slightly alternative bands (from underground US hip-hop to thrashing rock). Shakespeare’s Globe New Globe Walk t020/7902 1400.org. w www. As well as the main auditorium. and visited by many of the finest international companies. with “groundling” tickets (standing-room only) for around £5. with balcony seats going for just £3. Entertainment Comedy Comedy Café 66 Rivington St t020/7739 5706. the Lilian Baylis space.meanfiddler. with two shows.co. in addition to a stand-up bill.sadlers-wells. where experimental ballets are staged. standbys (all tickets that are unsold) go on sale at £12.org. Three hours before the performance. Free admission for the new-acts slot on Wednesday.jongleurs. The ROH main auditorium remains over-priced (over £120 for the best seats). Contents Essentials . Book well in advance. St Martin’s Lane t020/7632 8300. Comedy Store Haymarket House.org. rising to just over £60. often with impressive lineups. Improvisation on Wednesdays and Sundays. Solid. Royal Ballet Royal Opera House.eno.theplace. Live music and clubs Astoria 157 Charing Cross Rd t020/7454 9592. Club nights on Friday and Saturday. low-price standbys (subject to availability) can be bought for around £15 by students. w www. See p. See p. One of London’s best and most central medium-sized venues. ESSENTIALS Opera English National Opera Coliseum.royaloperahouse. 1a Oxendon St t020/7344 0234. wwww.royaloperahouse.com. The cheaper and more experimental of London’s two opera houses.com. Chalk Farm Road. fun Shakespearean shows from mid-May to mid-September. and some fine small-scale contemporary dance from across the globe. for details of day tickets and standbys). Recent refurbishment of the ROH has added two small performing spaces. at 8pm and midnight – book ahead. w www.148. above. New choreographers and student performers. Closed Mon.uk. A small number of day seats (for £30 or under) are put on sale from 10am on the day of a performance – these are restricted to one per person. senior citizens etc.co.uk. Jongleurs Camden Lock Dingwalls Building. wwww.108. Four hours before performances. w www.uk) include a regular Christmas slot.ballet.
uk. w www.jazzcafe. Fun. or anythinggoes bacchanalia on Mondays. this is the place to come if you want to sweat from dusk till dawn. w www. Club and live music venue offering modern-genre mixups that blend jazz with Brazilian.uk.co. hip-hop and musical fusions. w www.ministryofsound.uk.co. Late March/Early April Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race Since 1845. Corporate clubbing and full of tourists. Shepherds Bush Empire Shepherds Bush Green t 020/8771 2000. off York Way t020/7278 2777.co. Cargo 83 Rivington St t 020/7739 5446. w www. Mid-morning Sunday performances are especially busy.com.fabriclondon. Futuristic venue with an adventurous booking policy exploring Latin. w www. marching bands.org.uk.chinatown-online.org.scala-london. boasting near-perfect accoustics. while Saturdays see cutting-edge house from big-name DJs. Turnmills 63 Clerkenwell Rd t020/7250 3409.cargo-london. Fridays are Fabric Live. wwww. American cheerleaders and classic cars wends its way at noon from Parliament Square to Berkeley Square. a mix of drum’n’bass and hip-hop that features lives acts. which begins on Sunday morning at 4am.uk.co. Ronnie Scott’s 47 Frith St t 020/7439 0747. w www.uk.barrumba.turnmills. t 020/8566 8586. clowns. and for recitals from some of the world’s greatest singers. Trade.uk. – book a table.co. w www. rap. Famed for the glorious gay extravaganza. The End 18 West Central St t 020/7419 9199.londonparade. firecrackers and heaving crowds. especially on Saturdays. Best for tech-house at weekends. smallish venue with an adventurous mix of nights ranging from future-jazz on Mondays to glamorous house sessions at weekends. A combination of live blues and contemporary country seven nights a week.com. Wigmore Hall 36 Wigmore St t020/7935 2141. with chrome minimalist decor and a devastating sound system. w www. w www.com. Chinatown explodes in a riot of dancing dragons. w www. that’s best-known for performances of chamber music. Jazz Café 5 Parkway t 020/7916 6060. Ministry of Sound 103 Gaunt St t020/7378 6528.the-end.12barclub.ronniescotts. w www. Unusual and multi-faceted nights that take in film.co. but it still draws the top talent.uk. Cavernous three-room underground space holding 2500 people. funk. Festivals and events ESSENTIALS Festivals and events January 1 London Parade A procession of floats. or you’ll have to stand. Scala 278 Pentonville Rd t020/7833 2022.com.co. The place for top-line names. Popular classical music venue. w www.wigmore-hall . Fabric 77a Charterhouse St t 020/7336 8898.uk. live bands and music ranging from quirky hip-hop to drum’n’bass and deep house. Large and spacious. often complemented by DJs. smoky and still going strong.214 Bagley’s King’s Cross Goods Yard. Grand old theatre that now plays host to the finest cross-section of mid-league UK and US bands in the capital. Oxford and Cambridge university rowers have battled it out on a four-mile. Latin and African music. Bar Rumba 36 Shaftesbury Ave t020/7287 2715. London’s most famous jazz club: small. stateof-the-art enterprise with an exceptional sound system and the pick of visiting US and Italian DJs. Vast. 12 Bar Club 22–23 Denmark Place t020/7916 6989. Vast warehousestyle venue in a post-apocalyptic industrial estate. Perfect for enormous raves. upstream course on the Thames from Late January/Early February Chinese New Year Celebrations Contents Essentials .
gun salutes and fly-pasts. with the public admitted only for the closing stages (the last two days). whistleblowing lesbian and gay march through the city streets followed by a huge. September–November Dance Umbrella Six-week season of often ground-breaking new dance work at various venues across town.waterways.uk/ceremonialandheritage.com. w www. May Bank Holiday Weekend IWA Canal Cavalcade Lively celebration of the city’s inland waterways held at Little Venice (near Warwick Avenue): decorated narrowboats. thumping sound systems. w www. t020/7414 2479.215 Putney to Mortlake.org. Late May/Early June Beating Retreat Annual military display held on Horse Guards’ Parade over three evenings. with over 40.org. sporting and social calendar.bbc.mod.uk.uk. with scores of new international films screened at the National Film Theatre and other central venues.uk. November London Film Festival Three-week cinematic season. w www. t020/7589 8212. Last Week of June and First Week of July Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Championships This Grand Slam tournament is one of the highlights of the Contents Essentials .londonmardigras.londonopenhouse. but there are free rehearsals (minus Her Majesty) on the two preceding Saturdays.danceumbrella.uk.org. w www. ESSENTIALS Mid-July to Mid-September BBC Henry Wood Promenade Concerts The Proms are a series of outstanding nightly classical concerts at the Royal Albert Hall. featuring massed bands. w www.uk/proms. followed by a floodlit performance by the Massed Bands of the Queen’s Household Cavalry.org.uk or (nearer the time) w www. Second Saturday in June Trooping the Colour The Queen’s official birthday celebrations.co. w www. wwww. See p. Third Weekend in September Open House Peek inside hundreds of buildings around London. w www. eye-catching costumes. wwww. t 020/7620 4117.bfi.theboatrace. peculiarly English form of folk dancing can be seen outside Westminster Abbey every Wednesday evening. many of which are normally closed to the public. w www. w www. Festivals and events Third or Fourth Week in May Chelsea Flower Show The world’s finest horticultural event. ticketed party in a London park.org. June–August Morris Dancing This ancient. t020/8741 5881. Early July Pride in the Park/Mardi Gras Colourful.parliament.org.000 runners sweating the 26. marking the old custom of drumming the troops back to base at dusk.org. Late October/Early November State Opening of Parliament The Queen arrives by horse-drawn coach at the Houses of Parliament at 11am. Morris dancers and children’s activities.rhs. Third Sunday in April London Marathon The world’s most popular city marathon. Tickets for the ceremony itself must be applied for before the end of February.co. t 020/7928 3232. t020/8946 2244. irresistible food and huge crowds. wwww.londonmarathon. t 020/7219 4272. bestknown and biggest street party in Europe. with standing-room tickets from as little as £3. Last bank holiday weekend in August Notting Hill Carnival The two-day free festival is the longest-running.rlff. wwww.lnhc.army . a tumult of imaginatively decorated floats.uk.uk.uk.156. t020/7739 5323.wimbledon. accompanied by the Household Cavalry and gun salutes.co.org. Tickets must be bought in advance: t0870/906 3781.2 miles from Greenwich Park to Westminster Bridge.
com.com.bfi.com. t0207606 3030. you can also take a boat from Westminster via Kew and Richmond to Hampton Court (3hr 30min. American Airlines t020/7365 0777. easyCar t0906/333 3333. Buzz t0870/240 7070. Air France t0845/084 5111. w www. New Year’s Eve The New Year is welcomed en masse in Trafalgar Square as thousands of inebriated revellers stagger about and slur to Auld Lang Syne at midnight.com. t020/7405 9900.britishairways. From April to October.klm.americanexpress. Sun 10am–5pm. t020/8365 2121.com.com. w www. w www. 1hr). Prince Charles 2–7 Leicester Contents Essentials .uk/nft.alitalia. wwww.uk.com.uk /imax. The Mall. SW1 t020/7930 3647. wwww.uk.easycar.uk. wwww. £18 return). in association with BBC Radio 3. wwww.com. BOAT TRIPS The most central departure point for pleasure cruises along the Thames is Westminster Pier.com. large and small. November 5 Bonfire Night In memory of Guy Fawkes – who tried to blow up King James I and the Houses of Parliament in 1605 – effigies are burned on bonfires all over London. wwww. wwww. w www. Lufthansa t0845/606 0310.com.org.avis. wwww.co. National Film Theatre South Bank t 020/7928 3232. ICA Cinema Nash House.org. Global Leisure Cars t0870/241 1986. For a full list of operators. Directory ESSENTIALS Christmas (6–24 December) Trafalgar Square carols In gratitude for British help in liberating the country from the Nazis. or visit w www. wwww .uk.hertz. AMERICAN EXPRESS 30–31 Haymarket t020/7484 9600 (and other branches). wwww . w www. Alitalia t0870/608 6001.bbc.co. Norway supplies a mighty spruce tree for Trafalgar Square.virgin-atlantic .buzzaway.uk.co. Decorated with lights. shorter trips to the Tower of London (around £3 single) are also available. Second Saturday in November Lord Mayor’s Show The newly appointed Lord Mayor sets off at 11. London Transport runs free public transport all night. pick up the Thames River Services booklet from a TfL travel information office. w www. Canadian Airlines t0870/524 7226. £8 return.org.com. CAR RENTAL Avis t0870/606 0100. w www. wwww.com. wwww.ca.com.ica. wwww. CINEMAS Electric 191 Portobello Rd t020/7299 8688. it becomes the focus for carol singing versus traffic noise each evening (from 5pm) until Christmas Eve.qantas. Qantas t0845/774 7767.gov. phone t020/7222 1234. easyJet t0870/600 0000.au. Virgin t01293/450150. Delta t0800/414767. in the 1756-built State Coach at the head of a vast ceremonial procession from the Directory AIRLINES Aer Lingus t0845/084 4444.co.londontransport.the-electric. £12 single.cityoflondon. Mon–Sat 9am–6pm.com.aa.delta. Later.bfi . wwww. BFI London IMAX Centre South Bank. The most popular trip is to Greenwich (every 30–40min. Guildhall to the Strand and back. wwww.co. British Airways t0845/773 3377.com /uk. and numerous council-run fires and fireworks displays are staged. wwww .easyjet.lufthansa . KLM t0870/ 575 0900.globalleisurecars. w www.uk.com.216 Early November London Jazz Festival Ten-day international jazz fest held in all London’s jazz venues. Ryanair t0871/ 246 0000. there’s a big fireworks display on the Thames. t020/7902 1234.bookryanair. Hertz t0870/599 6699.aerlingus. wwww.uk/radio3.50 single. typical fares are around £6.airfrance.10am. w www.aircanada.
uk.15pm). DENTISTS Emergency treatment: Guy’s Hospital. Pope’s Rd. Whittington.com.co. 24 Grosvenor Square t020/7499 9000. Brixton Electric Avenue. DOCTORS Walk-in consultations are available at Great Chapel Street Medical Centre. wwww. w www. King’s Cross t020/7278 3310 (Mon–Fri 9am–5.uk.canada.usembassy.broadgateestates. in the Christmas and New Year period there are outdoor rinks at Somerset House (w www.uk (24hr). St Thomas St t 020/7955 4317 (Mon–Fri 9am–3pm).com. w ireland. there’s the Broadgate outdoor ice rink (t 020/7505 4068. Whitechapel Rd t020/7377 7000. Charles Worthington 7 Percy St. Sun 8am–1pm. Grafton Way t 020/7387 9300. Sat 5. Australia House. w www. 17 Queensway (t020/7229 0172).somersethouse.uk (daily 8am–4pm).30am–8pm). Sun 10am–10pm).heathrowexpress. Stansted t01279/680500 (daily 6am–midnight). Fulham Palace Rd t020/8846 1234. INTERNET Most hotels. Chilton St. Trevor Sorbie 27 Floral St t 020/7379 6901. Euston (Mon–Sat 6.easyEverything. MARKETS Brick Lane Brick Lane. CONSULATES AND EMBASSIES Australia.org. w www. 17 Grosvenor Place t 020/7235 2171. St Mary’s. ELECTRICITY Electricity supply in London conforms to the EU standard of approximately 230V.uk.co.org. Victoria t020/7922 9887 (daily 7am–midnight). bric-a-brac. LOST PROPERTY Airports Gatwick t01293/503162 (Mon–Sat 8am–7pm. Sun 8am–4pm). Cygnet St. Atlantic Rd.nzembassy. London City t020/7646 0000 (Mon–Fri 5.co. Royal Free. Victoria (daily 7am–10.uk. Heathrow t020/8745 7727 (daily 8am–4pm). Cheshire St.charlesworthington. New Zealand House.30pm).uk. USA.30am–10pm.trevorsorbie. Praed St t 020/7886 6666. w www. ESSENTIALS Directory Contents Essentials . Royal London. w www. Sun 7. Mon.uk.co. Train stations Euston t020/7387 8699 (Mon–Fri 9am–5.toniandguy.windle-hair. Ireland. From October to March. Bacon St. w www.com. Fish 30 D’Arblay St t 020/7494 2398. London and other branches t020/7631 1370.uk) and Marble Arch (w www.co. Great Chapel St t020/7437 9360 (phone for surgery times).org. University College. 369 Fulham Rd t 020/8746 8000.30am–1am.217 Place t 020/7494 3654. EMERGENCIES For police. Pond St t 020/7794 0500. call t 999. Liverpool Street t020/7247 4297 (Mon–Fri 9am–5. HOSPITALS For 24hr accident and emergency: Charing Cross.princecharlescinema. Windle 41 Shorts Gardens t 020/7497 2393.londontransport.londontransport. cheap goods.com).com is the biggest chain.org .com.co. Paddington t020/7313 1514 (Mon–Fri 9am–5. wwww. Canada House.30pm). w www. Trafalgar Square t020/7528 6533. with eight branches. there are also Internet cafés (£2–5 per hour) dotted around the city. Chelsea & Westminster. Buses t020/7222 1234.uk/ice/frame set. Tube trains London Regional Transport t020/7486 2496.45am–11. 80 Haymarket t 020/7930 8422.15am–11pm).fishweb. Brixton Station Rd. ICE SKATING Leisurebox. w www . is a centrally located year-round ice rink. Terry Jacks 2 Bathurst St t 020/7706 7030. Highgate Hill t 020/7272 3070. w www.marblearchicerink.30pm).embassyhomepage.uk.15pm. New Zealand.30pm).co.australia. HAIRDRESSERS Basecuts 252 Portobello Rd t020/7727 7068. Tues & Thurs–Sat 8am–6pm. LEFT LUGGAGE Charing Cross (daily 7am–11pm). wwww. fire and ambulance services. Heathrow Express t020/8745 7727. Strand t 020/7379 4334. w www. Canada. B&Bs hostels and libraries will have Internet access.htm).com. w www. Wed 8am–3pm. Waterloo International (daily 7am–10pm). Fruit and veg. Waterloo t020/7401 7861 (Mon–Fri 7. Toni & Guy 8 Marylebone High St and many other branches t 020/7240 6635. Taxis (black cabs only) t0791/82000 (Mon–Fri 9am–4pm). Sclater St. w www.
Ironmonger Row (t020/7253 4011) and Porchester Spa. Flowers and plants.30am–6pm. 201–207 Shoreditch High St. TRAVEL AGENTS STA Travel. WC1 t 020/7704 1212. Most take all coins from 10p upwards. Note that if January 1. clothes.uk. MONEY The basic unit of currency is the pound sterling (£). EC2 t 020/7601 2222. Waterstone’s. Good Friday (late March/early April). wwww. jewellery. Daily 10am–6pm. 12 Floral St t0870/770 3350. notes come in denominations of £5. crafts and clothes. food (Sat). West End Central. Gay: Chariots 1. Portobello Portobello Rd and Golborne Rd. £3). TIME Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) is used from October to March. books and furniture. though some take only phonecards (available from post offices and newsagents). off Southampton St. crafts. August Bank Holiday (last Monday in August). clothes. A conglomeration of markets.thesanctuary. while everyone else pretty much runs to a Sunday schedule: New Year’s Day (January 1). to leave tips in pubs. Women-only: The Sanctuary.uk. hair and beauty products. Daily 9am–5pm. gifts. 33 Bedford St t020/7240 9821. Greenwich Greenwich High Rd. It’s not normal. the holiday falls on the following weekday. TIPPING Porters. City of London Police. furniture and bric-a-brac. all banks and offices are closed. 226 Queensway t020/7792 3980. bellboys and table waiters rely on being tipped to bump up their often dismal wages. 5p. Mon–Fri 10am–2pm. 32 Endell St t020/7831 1804. SAUNAS Turkish baths: Ironmonger Row Baths. or the open-air pools on Hampstead Heath (daily 7am–9pm or dusk). 2p. Lloyds TSB and HSBC) in every area. between Brushfield St and Lamb Streets.gaysauna.218 African and Caribbean foods. December 25 or December 26 falls on a Saturday or Sunday. Boxing Day (December 26). 20p.statravel. TELEPHONES There should be a public payphone within five minutes’ walk of wherever you’re standing. 50p. Crafts. May Bank Holiday (last Monday in May). records.nationrail. 203–205 Piccadilly t020/7292 1888. Outdoor swimming at the Serpentine Lido in Hyde Park (June–Aug daily 10am–6pm.co. Sun 8am–1pm. 76 King’s Cross Rd. these can be found at train stations and airports in most areas of the city centre. w www.uk. Organic food. Lower Ground Floor. bric-a-brac. one hour ahead of GMT.30am–1pm. and Jubilee Market. Outside banking hours go to a bureau de change. fruit and veg.co. Antiques (Thurs. Mon–Wed. £10. Stockwell St. gifts.trailfinders. POLICE Central police stations include: Charing Cross. For exchange. 10p. Thurs 8. Sun 9am–2pm. W1 t020/7437 1212. opening hours are generally Mon–Fri 9. Barclays.co. King’s Cross. Taxi drivers expect tips on long journeys – add about ten percent to the fare – as will traditional barbers. WC1 t020/7404 1212. Covent Garden The Piazza. Columbia Road Columbia Rd. Directory ESSENTIALS Contents Essentials . WC2 t 020/7240 1212. PUBLIC HOLIDAYS On the following days. TRAIN ENQUIRIES For national rail enquiries.co.30am–4. Cheap clothes. and College Approach. arts and crafts. Agar St. Thurs–Sun 10am–5pm. however. Spring Bank Holiday (first Monday in May). Antiques (Sat). t020/7247 5333. Sat & Sun). Camden Camden High St to Chalk Farm Rd. clothes.uk. 10 Vine St. 70 Theobalds Rd. Holborn. call t 0845/748 4950 or visit w www. records. Bishopsgate. Easter Monday (late March/early April).co. Petticoat Lane Middlesex St and around. which they may accept in the form of money.uk. Old Spitalfields Commercial St. Coins come in denominations of 1p. Trailfinders.30pm. SWIMMING Outdoor and indoor pools at Covent Garden’s Oasis Sports Centre. w www. divided into 100 pence (p). £20 and £50. wwww. clothes. you’’ll find a branch of at least one of the big four high-street banks (NatWest. although bar staff are sometimes offered drinks. £1 and £2. Fri & Sat 8. for the rest of the year the country switches to British Summer Time (BST). selling food. clothes and (on Mon only) antiques. Christmas Day (December 25).
Contents Index and Small Print Index and small print .
published in 1982. Printed and bound in Italy by Graphicom © Rob Humphreys. Distributed by the Penguin Group Penguin Books Ltd. or inconvenience sustained by any traveller as a result of information or advice contained in the guide. Canada M4V 1E4 Penguin Group (NZ). or Rough Guides. These days the guides offer recommendations from shoestring to luxury and a large number of destinations around the globe. Everyone who writes to us and isn't already a subscriber will receive a copy of our full-colour thriceyearly newsletter.roughguides.com to see our latest publications. and if you can remember the address. 4th Floor. Rough Guides now publish: • Travel guides to more than 200 worldwide destinations • Dictionary phrasebooks to 22 major languages • Maps printed on rip-proof and waterproof Polyart™ paper • Music guides running the gamut from Opera to Elvis • Reference books on topics as diverse as the Weather and Shakespeare • World Music CDs in association with World Music Network Visit www. 182–190 Wairau Road. USA. 10 Alcorn Avenue. the phone number. critical approach. Ringwood. 345 Hudson St. opening hours are notoriously fickle. Toronto. the time. Rough Guides soon began supplementing the “rougher” information about hostels and low-budget listings with the kind of detail on restaurants and quality hotels that independent-minded visitors on any budget might expect. May 2004 No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher except for the quotation of brief passages in reviews. NY 10014. 80 Strand. things change – places get “discovered”. London WC2R 0RL. New York. NY 10014. 1 3 5 7 9 8 6 4 2 Help us update We’ve gone to a lot of effort to ensure that the first edition of London DIRECTIONS is accurate and up-to-date. The immediate success of the book – with numerous reprints and a Thomas Cook prize shortlisting – spawned a series that rapidly covered dozens of destinations. London WC2R 0RL Penguin Group (USA). 345 Hudson St. New Zealand Typeset in Bembo and Helvetica to an original design by Henry Iles. and send a copy of the next edition (or any other DIRECTIONS guide or Rough Guide if you prefer) for the best letters. but soon also acquired a much broader and older readership that relished Rough Guides’ wit and inquisitiveness as much as their enthusiastic. we’d like to know. but not at any price. restaurants and rooms raise prices or lower standards. 375 Hudson Street. Or send an email to mail@roughguides. injury. However. We’ll credit all contributions. Please mark letters: “London DIRECTIONS Update” and send to: Rough Guides. was a student scheme that became a publishing phenomenon. If you feel we’ve got it wrong or left something out. Auckland 10.roughguides. Rough Guides had a ready market among lowbudget backpackers. Ontario. The first Rough Guide to Greece. so much the better. New York. USA Penguin Group (Australia). NY 10014. 80 Strand. London WC2R 0RL.com Contents Index and Small Print . 240pp includes index A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ISBN 1-84353-316-2 The publishers and authors have done their best to ensure the accuracy and currency of all the information in London DIRECTIONS. Everyone wants value for money. however. more than half of Africa and most of Asia and Australasia.atinfopop. the price. PO Box 257.220 A Rough Guide to Rough Guides London DIRECTIONS is published by Rough Guides. including almost every country in the Americas and Europe. whether on business in New York or trekking in Thailand. 4th Floor. Australia Penguin Group (Canada).com Have your questions answered and tell others about your trip at www. 487 Maroondah Highway. they can accept no responsibility for any loss. Victoria 3134. SMALL PRINT Publishing Information This 1st edition published May 2004 by Rough Guides Ltd. 80 Strand.
32 London Aquarium © Tony Kyriacou/REX p.7 Soho at night © Inge Yspeert/CORBIS p. Joe Mee Proofreader: Amanda Jones.5 Brick Lane with Bollywood posters © Timothy Allen/AXIOM p. British Museum © British Museum p. V&A Museum © Sandro Vannini/CORBIS p. Katie for her patience and luscious layouts. Westminster Abbey © www.40 Karl Marx tomb. he can usually be found capsizing in the city’s reservoirs. and Ed Wright for all his hard toil on the maps. Helena for all her pertinent suggestions.4 Taxi light © Mark Thomas p.23 Imperial Crown of India. British Museum © Robert Harding p.33 Diana Memorial Playground © Graham Tim/CORBIS p.21 Wallace Collection gallery © Michael St Maur Sheil/Collections p.26 Imperial War Museum guns © Barclay Graham/CORBIS p.33 Syon Park © Syon Park p. Karoline Densley Production: Julia Bovis Design: Henry Iles SMALL PRINT The author Rob Humphreys has lived in London since the late 1980s and has written several Rough Guides.11 Chapel of Henry VII.33 No.33 Child with monkey © Natural History Museum p.21 Tate Modern exterior © Alamy p.7 Cutty Sark © Adam Woolfitt/CORBIS p. Dan May.21 Iveagh Bequest.27 Sir John Soane’s Museum © Massimo Listri/CORBIS p. Ed for painstaking attention to detail.21 Tate Britain © Alamy p.12 New Tayyab dining room © New Tayyab p. Polly Thomas would like to thank Rob for good humour.11 Van Eyck’s Arnolfini Portrait © National Gallery/CORBIS p.22 Trooping the Colour © Sean Dempsey/PA Photos p.8 Diplodocus skeleton.20 Manet’s Bar at the Folies-Bergère © Courtauld Institute p. When not working.35 Charles Worthington salon © Charles Worthington p.19 Cheshire Cheese sign © Rupert Horrox/CORBIS p.31 London Central Mosque © Chris Capstick/REX p. Kate for overall guidance.35 Cocktails at the Savoy © Savoy p.6 Berkeley Square © Tim Allen/AXIOM p. spotting bitterns or steering a Norfolk reed cutter up and down the Thames. Tower of London © Tim Graham/CORBIS p.34 Koi Carp Lounge © The Sanctuary p. Sharon Martins and Joe Mee for photo research beyond the call of duty.14 Somerset House ice rink © Mark Thomas p.2 Face sculpture. Sharon for focus.20 Courbet’s Young Ladies on the Bank of the Seine © National Gallery/CORBIS p.26 Lewis chessmen.27 National Maritime Museum © National Maritime Museum p. Andy Hilliard Photography: Victor Borg Cartography: Ed Wright Picture research: Sharon Martins. Kenwood House © Bill Batten/English Heritage p.britainonview.5 Neon Piccadilly © Mark Thomas p. Natural History Museum © Bill Varie/CORBIS p.221 Rough Guide Credits Text editor: Polly Thomas Layout: Katie Pringle.17 Mardi Gras © Paul Brown/REX p. and the couriers of London for their initiative and panache.29 Temple Church © Alamy p. Highgate Cemetery © Nils Jorgensen/REX Contents Index and Small Print .25 Paul exterior © Paul p.27 Science Museum © PNS/REX p.24 Harrods Food Hall © Harrods p.27 Cast Courts.23 Royal Mews © Matthew Fearn/PA Photos p. 11 bus © Mark Thomas p.7 Covent Garden Piazza © Alamy p.1 Old Bond Street sign © Dave Bartruff/CORBIS p.6 Thames at sunset © Mark Thomas p. Karoline for proofing under pressure. Acknowledgements Rob Humphreys would like to thank editor Polly Thomas.10 Tate Modern exterior © Biniam Ghezai/Travel Ink p.com p. Photo credits All images © Rough Guides except the following: p.16 Old Compton Street © Alex Segre/REX p. spiritual counsel and captions that went against the grain.
41 Wellington monument.58 Globe Theatre © Yann ArthusBertrand/CORBIS p.98 Soho at night © Inge Yspeert/CORBIS p.56 Lloyds Building © Mark Thomas p.142 Royal Festival Hall © Jeremy Horner/CORBIS p.50 Chamber of Horrors © Madame Tussauds p.62 Ritz © Ritz p.51 London Dungeon © Cordaiy Photo Library/CORBIS p.52 Shakespeare’s Globe production © Julian Nieman/Collections p.53 Donmar Warehouse production © Robbie Jack/CORBIS p.100 Martini © CORBIS p.52 National Theatre © Hideo Kurihara/Collections p.59 Ham House © www.com p. V&A © Stapleton Collection/CORBIS p.48 Proms © Robbie Jack/CORBIS p.63 Dorchester © Dorchester p.59 Hampton Court Palace © Mecky Fogeling p.51 Old Operating Theatre © Michael Jenner/Collections p.160 Stephenson’s Rocket. National Portrait Gallery © Hulton-Deutsch Collection/CORBIS p.109 Somerset House fountains © Peter Durant/Somerset House Trust p.57 Serpentine Gallery summer pavilion © Alamy p. Hampton Court Palace © Sandro Vannini/CORBIS SMALL PRINT Contents Index and Small Print .148 Tate Modern interior © Timothy Allen/AXIOM p.60 Freud Museum © Freud Museum p.45 Evensong at St Paul’s Cathedral © www.63 Lanesborough © Lanesborough p.62 Savoy © Savoy p. Foreign Office © Peter Aprahamian/CORBIS p.78 Blake’s Newton.54 Jazz Café © Jazz Café p. Natural History Museum © Bill Varie/CORBIS p.49 Dance Umbrella © Dance Umbrella p.167 Trellick Tower © Alberto Arzoz/AXIOM p.128 White Cube. Hoxton Square © Mark Thomas p.61 Handel House Museum © Handel House p.61 Leighton House © Leighton House p. St Paul’s Cathedral © Angelo Horak/CORBIS p.61 2 Willow Road © National Trust p.55 Guitar man © Mark Thomas p.186 Lion sculpture.64 Big Ben reflection © Alamy p.222 p. Little Venice © Michael Freeman/CORBIS p.britainonview.57 Millennium Bridge © Rachel Royse/CORBIS p. Tate Britain.48 Carnival © Arena-Pal p.com p.britainonview.53 Comedy Café © Inge Yspeert/CORBIS p.158 Diplodocus skeleton. Science Museum © Science & Society Picture Library p.55 Shepherds Bush Empire © Mark Thomas p.161 Miniature zebra painting.56 Swiss Re © Barry Beattie/Collections p.41 Gilt-bronze tomb.49 Wimbledon © Nils Jorgensen/REX p.49 Durbar Court.63 Claridge’s © Claridge’s p.70 Isambard Brunel.55 Wigmore Hall © Wigmore Hall p.61 James Joyce’s Finnegan’s Wake manuscript. British Library © HIP/Scala p.59 Middle Temple Hall © Michael Jenner/Collections p. Newton © Bettman/CORBIS p. Westminster Abbey © Angelo Horak/CORBIS p.144 Dali sculpture with Big Ben in background © Doug McKinlay/AXIOM p.49 IWA Cavalcade.54 Royal Opera House © David Paterson/Collections p.69 Uccello’s Battle of San Romano © Archivo Iconografico/CORBIS p.
Knightsbridge and Chelsea 162 The Tower and Docklands 138 Trafalgar Square and Whitehall 72 B B&Bs 197 ballet 213 Bank of England 125 Bankside and Southwark 42. 216 Boleyn.223 Index A accommodation 197 accommodation maps 198. 137 car rental 216 Carnival 48. 95 Chinese New Year 214 Christ Church. 152 The Orangery 157 Patisserie Valerie (Soho) 99 Patisserie Valerie at Sagne 93 Paul 93 Pistacchio’s Café 185 The Place Below 127 Primrose Patisserie 172 Red Veg 99 Rock and Sole Place 111 Sotherby’s 89 Tai Won Mein 185 Viet-Anh Café 172 Vingt-Quatre 163 World Food Café 111 Yokoso Sushi 116 Zoomslide Café 111 INDEX cafés Bar Italia 98 Beatroot 98 Brew House 178 Brick Lane Beigel Bake 132 Café 1001 132 Café Delancey 172 Café in the Crypt 72 Café Mozart 178 Cashbar 167 Centrale 98 Chelsea Kitchen 162 Clark & Sons 120 Coffee Gallery 105 Costas Fish Restaurant 167 Daquise 162 De Gustibus 126 Deli Bar 120 dim T café 178 Feast 120 Food for Thought 110 Gambardella 185 Goddard’s 185 Golden Hind 93 Hothouse Café 191 Hubbub 138 K10 127 Camden 170 Camden map 170 Camden Market 171 Canary Wharf 57. 212 BBC World Service 109 Beating Retreat 215 bed-and-breakfasts 197 Bedlam 144 Beefeaters 135 Bevis Marks Synagogue 31. William 130 Bligh. John 130 Burlington Arcade 86 bus tours 211 buses 211 Konditor & Cook 145 Kopi-Tiam 98 Ktchn 132 Lauderdale House 178 Lisboa Patisserie 167 Louis Patisserie 179 Maison Blanc 191 Maison Sagne 93 Marine Ices 172 Masters Super Fish 145 Mô 89 Monmouth Coffee Company 111. 80 Bunhill Fields 129 Bunyan. Captain 144 Bloody Tower 135 Bloomsbury 101 Bloomsbury map 102 Boat Race 214 boat trips 15. Spitalfields 131 churches 28 cinemas 216 City airport 209 City churches 125 City Hall 57. 103 British Museum 11. 215 Cenotaph 41. 130 Britain at War Experience 150 British Library 61. 72 airlines 216 airports 209 Al Fayed. Mohamed 161 Albert Memorial 39. 101 Brixton market 30 Brompton Oratory 38. Anne 135 Bond Street 87 Bonfire Night 216 Borough Market 25. The map 122 Clarence House 82 Cleopatra’s Needle 109 Clerkenwell 117 Clerkenwell map 118 Clockmakers’ Museum 125 club-bars 36 clubs 213 Bagley’s 214 Contents Index and Small Print . 149 Brick Lane 31. 26. The 122 City. 156 American Express 216 Apsley House 153 arrival 209 Bush House 109 Bushy Park 194 Butlers Wharf Gastrodome 151 Butterfly House 186 C Cabinet War Rooms 71 cafés (by area) Bankside and Southwark 151 Bloomsbury 105 The City 126 Clerkenwell 120 Covent Garden 110 Greenwich 185 Hampstead and Highgate 178 High Street Kensington to Notting Hill 167 Holborn 116 Hoxton and Spitalfields 132 Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens 157 Kew and Richmond 191 Marylebone 93 Piccadilly and Mayfair 89 Regent’s Park and Camden 172 Soho 98 South Bank 145 South Kensington. 70 Changing of the Guard 22 Chapel of St John 135 Charing Cross Road 97 Chariots Roman Baths 17 Chelsea 158 Chelsea map 159 Chelsea Flower Show 215 Chelsea Physic Garden 162 children 32 Chinatown 30. 161 Brunei Gallery 103 Buckingham Palace 23. 146 Bankside and Southwark map 146 Banqueting House 71 Barbican 119. 126 Big Ben 73 Blake. 150 City. 202 afternoon tea 62.
110 Covent Garden 106 Covent Garden map 107 crown jewels 135 curry 12 Cutty Sark 180 G Gatwick Airport 209 gay and lesbian London 15 Geffrye Museum 131 Gerrard Street 96 Gilbert Collection 109 GLA headquarters 150 Globe Theatre 58. 148 Golden Hinde 149 Golders Hill Park 176 Goldfinger. 88 Harrison. 213 Jongleurs Camden Lock 213 Constitution Arch 153 consulates 217 County Hall 143 Courtauld Institute 20. 178 Highgate map 176 HMS Belfast 150 Hogwarts Express 104 Holborn 113 Holborn map 114 holidays 218 Holland Park 164 Holmes. 174 INDEX cocktails 35 Columbia Road flower market 131 comedy clubs Comdey Café 213 Comedy Store 53. Ernö 175 Great Court (British Museum) 101 Greenwich 180 Greenwich map 181 Greenwich Market 180 Greenwich Park 183 Guards’ Museum 80 guesthouses 197 Guildhall 124 Guildhall Art Gallery 125 Guy Fawkes Night 216 Henry Wood Promenade Concerts 48. Radclyffe 178 Ham House 59. 88 Foyles 97 Freud Museum 60.224 Bar Rumba 214 Cargo 214 The End 214 Fabric 214 Ministry of Sound 214 Ronnie Scott’s 214 Scala 214 Turnmills 214 F Fenton House 174 festivals 48. Francis 149 hotels and B&Bs 197 5 Maddox Street 200 30 King Henry’s Road 205 Abbey House 205 The Academy 201 Aster House 205 Hotel Cavendish 201 City Hotel 204 City Inn 197 Crescent Hotel 201 Durrants Hotel 200 Edward Lear Hotel 200 Fielding Hotel 200 Five Sumner Place 205 Four Seasons Hotel 204 Great Eastern Hotel 204 Jenkins Hotel 201 Hampstead Village Guesthouse 206 Hazlitt’s 200 Hotel 167 205 Hotel La Place 200 Lanesborough 63 Langorf Hotel 206 Lincoln House Hotel 200 London County Hall Travel Inn 204 Mad Hatter 204 Malmaison 204 Manzi’s 200 H hairdressers 35. John 184 Harrods 161 Harry Potter 104 Harvey Nichols 162 haute cuisine 13 Hayward Gallery 141 Heathrow Airport 209 E electricity 217 Elgin Marbles 101 Eliot. Sherlock 92 Holocaust Exhibition 144 Holy Redeemer 120 Holy Trinity Church 161 Horse Guards 71 hospitals 217 hostels 197 Ashlee House 201 City of London YHA 204 Generator 201 Hampstead Heath YHA 206 Holland House YHA 205 International Students House 206 Leinster Inn 205 Museum Inn 201 Oxford Street YHA 201 St Christopher’s Village 205 St Pancras YHA 201 D Dalí Universe 143 Dance Umbrella 49. George 178 embassies 217 emergencies 217 English National Opera 213 Eros 85 Eurostar 209 events 214 Exmouth Market 120 Contents Index and Small Print . 215 Herb Garret 51. 214 Film Festival 215 fish and chips 12 Fleet Street 114 Floral Hall 108 Fortnum & Mason 24. 134 Docklands map 136 Docklands Light Railway 134 doctors 217 Dome. The 138 Donmar Warehouse 53. 215 Darwin Centre 159 Defoe. 59. 149 Hermitage Rooms 109 High Court 113 High Street Kensington to Notting Hill 164 High Street Kensington to Notting Hill map 165 Highgate Cemetery 40. 157 Diana. 189 Hampstead and Highgate 174 Hampstead and Highgate map 176 Hampstead Heath 175 Hampstead Ponds 14 Hampton Court Palace 23. Daniel 130 Dennis Severs House 131 dentists 217 Design Museum 151 Diana and Dodi fountain 161 Diana Memorial Playground 33. 212 Downing Street 71 Dr Johnson’s House 115 Drake. 217 Hall. 192 Hampton Court Palace map 193 Handel House Museum 61. Princess 157 dim sum 13 Docklands 43.
213 Coliseum 213 Jazz Café 54. 144 information 210 Inns of Court 113 Internet 217 Ironmonger Row Baths 34 Island Gardens 138 Iveagh Bequest 21. 108. 183 National Portrait Gallery 69 national rail enquiries 218 National Theatre 52. 11 bus 33 Notting Hill 165 Notting Hill map 165 Notting Hill Carnival 48. 150 London Eye 10. 146 Millennium Dome 138 Millennium Wheel 142 minicabs 211 money 218 Monument 126 Morris dancing 215 Museum in Docklands 138 Museum of Garden History 144 Museum of London 119 museums 26 music venues 213 musicals 53 INDEX L Leadenhall Market 39. 171 London’s Transport Museum 108 Lord Mayor’s Show 216 lost property 217 lunchtime concerts 44 Luton Airport 209 O Old Bailey 117 Old Compton Street 16. 126 London Aquarium 32. 46. 142. 92 Mall. 20. 143 London Aquatic Experience 188 London Butterfly House 186 London Central Mosque 31. 212 ice skating 217 Imperial War Museum 26. 215 markets 217 Marx Memorial Library 119 Marx. tomb of 125 Nelson’s Column 67 New Year’s Eve 216 nightclubs 213 No. 215 J Jazz Festival 215 Jewel Tower 75 Lloyd’s Building 56. Catherine 135 Hoxton and Spitalfields 128 Hoxton and Spitalfields map 129 Hoxton Square 128 Hungerford Bridge 140 Hunterian Museum 116 Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens 153 Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens map 154 N National Film Theatre 141 National Gallery 11. 166 Kensington Gardens 155 Kensington Gardens map 154 Kensington Palace 157 Kenwood House 45 Kew and Richmond 186 Kew and Richmond map 187 Kew Gardens 188 King’s Cross Station 104 King’s Library 104 King’s Road 162 Knightsbridge 158 Koh-i-Noor 135 M Madame Tussaud’s 50. 214 Houses of Parliament 39. 142 London Film Festival 215 London Jazz Festival 216 London Marathon 215 London Parade 214 London Planetarium 92 London University 103 London Zoo 32. 97 Old Operating Theatre and Herb Garret 51.225 Marriott London County Hall Hotel 204 Melbourne House Hotel 197 The Metropolitan 200 Midland Grand Hotel 104 Morgan House 200 myhotel 201 No. Hampton Court 194 Middle Temple Hall 59. 177 IWA Canal Cavalcade 49. Karl 178 Marylebone 91 Marylebone map 91 Mayfair 85 Mayfair map 86 Maze. 212 Natural History Museum 33 Nelson. 5 Maddox Street 200 Oxford House Hotel 197 One Aldwych 201 The Pavillion Hotel 205 Portobello Hotel 205 Ridgemount Hotel 201 Ritz 62 The Rookery 204 Hotel Russell 201 St Martin’s Lane 204 Sanctuary House Hotel 197 Savoy 62 Seven Dials Hotel 204 Sloane Hotel 205 Thanet Hotel 201 Threadneedles 204 Topham’s Hotel 200 Vicarage Hotel 205 White Cross Hotel 191 Wigmore Court Hotel 200 Windermere Hotel 200 Woodville House 200 K Keats’ House 60. 64 Howard. 169 London Dungeon 51. 113 Millennium Bridge 57. 149 Contents Index and Small Print . 67 National Maritime Museum 27. 126 left luggage 217 Leicester Square 95 Leighton House 61. 175 Kensal Green Cemetery 40. 214 Royal Opera House 54. 213 Shepherd’s Bush empire 55. 215 Notting Hill Farmers’ Market 166 I ICA 84. The 79 Marble Arch 155 Marble Hill House 190 Mardi Gras 17. 164 Lenin 119 Liberty 89 Lincoln’s Inn 115 Lindisfarne Gospels 104 live music venues Astoria 55. 214 12 Bar 214 Wigmore Hall 55.
133 Spaniard’s Inn 179 Star Tavern 163 Tollesbury Thames Barge 139 The Toucan 100 Trafalgar Tavern 185 Viaduct Tavern 121 Vibe Bar 37. 142 Knightsbridge and Chelsea 163 St James’s 84 Trafalgar Square and Whitehall 72 The Tower and Docklands 139 Westminster 78 Lord Moon of the Mall 72 Market Bar 168 Match Bar 94 Museum Tavern 105 O’Conor Don 94 Old Cheshire Cheese 116 The Pool 133 Porterhouse 112 Prince Bonaparte 168 Prospect of Whitby 139 Punch and Judy 112 Red Lion. 175 Parliament. Crown Passage 84 Red Lion. Pygmalion 107 Q Queen Charlotte’s Cottage 188 Queen’s Gallery 82 Queen’s House 183 queer London 15 R Ralegh. 105 Lamb and Flag 112 Lansdowne 173 Lifthouse 121 INDEX P Pagoda. 90 The Counting House 127 The Cow 168 Cross Keys 163 Cutty Sark 185 Detroit 112 Dickens Inn 139 Dog and Duck 100 Dorchester 63. 112 The Social 100 Sosho 37. Harry 104 Pride in the Park 215 Prince Henry’s Room 59. 215 public holidays 218 public transport 210 pubs and bars (by area) Bankside and Southwark 152 Bloomsbury 105 The City 127 Clerkenwell 121 Covent Garden 111 Greenwich 185 Hampstead and Highgate 179 Hampton Court 194 High Street Kensington to Notting Hill 168 Holborn 116 Hoxton and Spitalfields 133 Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens 157 Kew and Richmond 191 Marylebone 94 Piccadilly and Mayfair 90 Regent’s Park and Camden 173 Soho 100 South Bank 145 South Kensington. 111 Albert 78 Alphabet 100 American Bar 112 Anchor 19. 133 The Edge 100 Elbow Room 168 The Engineer 173 Film Café-bar 145 Fire Station 145 First Out 16.226 Old Royal Naval College 42 Old Spitalfields Market 131 Old Truman Brewery 130 One Canada Square 138 Open House 49. 90 Dover Street wine bar 90 Dragon 37. 100 Cherry Jam 36. Duke of York St 84 Red Lion. 112 Flask 179 Fox and Anchor 121 Freedom 100 Freemason’s Arms 179 George Inn 152 Grenadier 157 The Gun 139 Hamilton Hall 127 Holly Bush 179 Home 133 Hoxton Square Bar and Kitchen 133 ICA 84 Ion 168 Jamaica Wine House 127 King’s Arms 194 King’s Bar 105 Lab 100 The Lamb 19. 165 Potter. 213 Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race 214 Oxford Street 88 Oxo Tower 47. Walter 135 Ranger’s House 184 ravens 135 Regent Street 85 Regent’s Canal 170 Regent’s Park and Camden 169 Regent’s Park and Camden map 170 restaurants (by area) Bankside and Southwark 152 Bloomsbury 105 Clerkenwell 120 The City 127 Covent Garden 111 Greenwich 185 Hampstead and Highgate 179 Contents Index and Small Print . Kew Gardens 39. 114 Proms 48. 152 Audley 90 Baltic 145 Bar Vinyl 173 Barley Mow 95 Bartok 173 Bed Bar 168 Blackfriar 116 Blenheim 163 Bunch of Grapes 163 Bünker Bier Bar 112 Café Kick 121 Camden Brewing Company 173 Candy Bar 17. 133 The Westbourne 168 Westminster Arms 78 White Cross Hotel 191 White Swan 191 Windsor Castle 168 WKD 173 Ye Grapes 90 Zero Degrees 185 pubs and bars AKA 36. 168 Cittie of Yorke 116 Claridge’s 63. Parliament St 72 Richard I 185 Royal Oak 152 Salisbury 18. 188 Parliament Hill 47. The 106 Piccadilly 85 Piccadilly and Mayfair map 86 Piccadilly Circus 85 pie and mash 13 Planetarium 92 Poets’ Corner 75 police 218 Portobello Road Market 15. Kew Gardens 188 Palm House. state opening of 215 Percival David Foundation of Chinese Art 103 Peter Pan statue 155 Petticoat Lane market 130 Philatelic Collections 104 Photographers’ Gallery 97 Piazza. 215 opera 108.
41. 46. 104 St Paul’s Cathedral 28. Knightsbridge and Chelsea 162 St James’s 83 Westminster 77 INDEX shops Agent Provocateur 97 Atlantis Bookshop 104 Backhaus 190 Benjamin Pollocks’ Toyshop 110 Berry Bros & Rudd 83 Birkenstock 110 Blewcoats School Gift Shop 77 Book Market 144 Browns 88 Charbonnel et Walker 88 Compendia 184 Daddy Kool 97 Davenport’s Magic Shop 110 Duffer of St George 110 Dunhill 83 ec one 120 Flow Gallery 166 Fortnum & Mason 88 Foyles 97 Freedom Press 132 Frosts of Clerkenwell 120 Gay’s the Word 104 Geo F Trumper 83 Gosh! 105 Hamleys 88 Harvey Nichols 162 Hatchards 89 Inflate 120 Koh Samui 110 Laurence Corner 172 Liberty 89 The Lion and Unicorn 190 S Saatchi Gallery 143 Sadler’s Wells 213 St Bartholomew-the-Great 29. 108. 123 St Paul’s Church 106 Contents Index and Small Print . Knightsbridge and Chelsea 163 St James’s 84 The Tower and Docklands 139 Westminster 78 Rasa Samudra 99 Real Greek 133 Rodrizio Rico 167 RSJ 145 Spiga 100 St John 121 Tentazioni 152 Tas 145 Truc Vert 90 Viet Hoa Café 133 Wagamama 105 Zero Degrees 185 restaurants 1 Lombard Street 127 Abeno 105 Al Duca 84 Al Waha 167 Baradero 139 Belgo Centraal 111 Bevis Marks (restaurant) 127 Bibendum Oyster House 163 Busaba Eathai 99 Café des Amis 111 Café Naz 133 Chapter Two 185 Chez Linsay 191 China City 99 Chowki 99 Cicada 120 Cigala 105 Cinnamon Club 78 Cucina 179 Delfina Studio Café 152 Fairuz 94 Fine Estampa 152 Galicia 167 The Gate 2 179 Gordon Ramsay 35. 82 Royal National Theatre 142 Royal Naval College. 213 RSJ 145 rush hour 210 St Stephen Walbrook 125 The Sanctuary 34. 144 St Pancras Station 38. 159 Selfridges 89 Senate House 103 Serpentine 155 Serpentine Gallery 57. Old 182 Royal Observatory 183 Royal Opera House 54. Dante Gabriel 178 Round Reading Room 101 Royal Academy 87 Royal Armouries 135 Royal Ballet 213 Royal Botanic Gardens 188 Royal College of Surgeons 116 Royal Court Theatre 212 Royal Courts of Justice 113 Royal Festival Hall 45 royal London 22 Royal Mews 23. 45. 163 Hunan 163 The Ivy 111 Jin Kichi 179 Kiku 90 Kozachok 191 La Galette 94 Little Saigon 145 Mandarin Kitchen 167 The Mandola 167 Mango Rooms 173 Manna 173 Mem Saheb on Thames 139 Mildred’s 99 Miso 84 Moro 121 Mr Kong 99 New Tayyab 133 O Fado Odette’s 173 Oxo Restaurant 145 Phoenix Palace 94 Pizza Express 99 Prism 127 The Providores 94 Quilon 78 Racine 163 RIBA 92 Richmond 43 Richmond map 187 Richmond Park 189 Richmond Riverside 189 Ritz Hotel 62 Ronnie Scott’s 214 rooms 197 Rossetti. 218 saunas 218 Savoy 62 Science Museum 27. 117 St Bride’s 114 St James’s 79 St James’s map 80 St James’s Palace 82 St James’s Park 79 St John 121 St Katharine’s Docks 136 St Margaret’s Church 75 St Martin-in-the-Fields 70 St Mary Abchurch 125 St Mary Woolnoth 125 St Mary-at-Lambeth 41. 156 Shakespeare’s Globe 52. 148. 213 Sherlock Holmes Museum 93 shops (by area) Bankside and Southwark 151 Bloomsbury 104 Clerkenwell 120 Covent Garden 110 Greenwich 184 High Street Kensington to Notting Hill 166 Hoxton and Spitalfields 132 Kew and Richmond 190 Piccadilly and Mayfair 88 Regent’s Park and Camden 172 Soho 97 South Bank 144 South Kensington.227 High Street Kensington to Notting Hill 167 Hoxton and Spitalfields 133 Kew and Richmond 191 Marylebone 94 Piccadilly and Mayfair 90 Regent’s Park and Camden 173 Soho 99 South Bank 145 South Kensington.
212 Open Air Theatre 212 Royal Court 212 Shakespeare’s Globe 52. 148. Lady Diana 157. 47. 142. 175 Tyburn 155 Y youth hostels 197 Ashlee House 201 City of London YHA 204 Generator 201 Hampstead Heath YHA 206 Holland House YHA 205 International Students House 206 Leinster Inn 205 Museum Inn 201 Oxford Street YHA 201 St Christopher’s Village 205 St Pancras YHA 201 U University of London 103 V V&A 27 Contents Index and Small Print . 512 Drill Hall 212 ICA 84. 91 Wanamaker. Sir John 116 Soho 95 Soho map 96 Somerset House 109 Somerset House ice rink 14. 126 Syon Park 33. 118 Soane’s Museum. 217 Sotheby’s auction house 44. tomb of 125 Wesley’s Chapel and Museum 128 West End musicals 53 Westminster 73 Westminster Abbey 11. 116 Slade 103 Smithfield 51. 76 Westminster map 74 Whispering Gallery 123 White Cube gallery 128 Whitechapel Art Gallery 130 Whitehall 67 Whitehall map 68 Wigmore Hall 55. 212 Donmar Warehouse 53. 135 Tower Green 135 Tower of London 11. 75 Westminster Abbey College Gardens 15. 87 South Bank 43. 28. afternoon 62. 214 Willow Road. Knightsbridge and Chelsea map 159 Southwark 146 Southwark map 146 Southwark Cathedral 149 Speakers’ Corner 155 Spencer House 83 Spencer. 41. 140 South Bank map 141 South Kensington. 134 Tradescant. 161 Spitalfields 128 Spitalfields map 129 Stansted Airport 209 Strand 108 Strang Print Room 103 swimming 218 Theatre Museum 108 time 218 tipping 218 tourist offices 210 The Tower and Docklands 134 The Tower and Docklands map 136 Tower Bridge 47. 76 Westminster Cathedral 29. Knightsbridge and Chelsea 158 South Kensington. 72 telephones 218 Temple 113 Temple Church 29. 212 National Theatre 52. 175 Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Championship 49.228 Marcet Books 184 Marks and Spencer 89 Modern Age Vintage Clothing 172 Mr Bongo 98 Neal’s Yard Dairy 25. 212 King’s Head 53. 23. 215 tube 211 Tudor and Stuart London 58 2 Willow Road 61. 21. John 144 Trafalgar Square and Whitehall 67 Trafalgar Square and Whitehall map 68 train enquiries 218 trains 209 Traitors’ Gate 135 transport 210 travel agents 218 travelcards 210 Trooping the Colour 22. 213 vegetarian food 13 Victoria and Albert Museum 160 Victoria Embankment 109 Victorian London 38 visitor centres 210 INDEX W walking tours 212 Wallace Collection 21. Holt & Co 120 Radio Days 144 Ray’s Jazz Shop 97 Rhythm Records 172 Rigby and Peller 162 Rough Trade 166 Selfridges 89 Silver Moon 97 Sister Ray 98 Skoob Books 105 Stanford’s Map and Travel Bookshop 110 Steinberg and Tolkein 162 Stern’s African Record Centre 105 Tatty Devine 132 The Vintage House 98 Vivienne Westwood 162 Waterstone’s 89 Swiss Re 56. 147 taxis 211 tea. 186 T Tate Britain 21. 113 theatre 212 theatres Almeida 212 Barbican Centre 119. 215 Winston Churchill’s Britain at War 150 World Service (BBC) 109 sightseeing tours 211 Sir John Soane’s Museum 27. 110 Neal’s Yard Remedies 110 Odette’s 173 Offstage Theatre and Cinema Bookshop 172 Parliamentary Bookshop 77 Paxton and Whitfield 83 Playin’ Games 105 Prowler Soho 97 Queens 132 R. 77 Tate Modern 10. 2 61. Sam 148 Wapping High Street 137 Waterloo International 209 websites 210 Wellington Arch 153 Wellington Museum 153 Wellington.
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S T OXFORD CIRCUS NT COVENT GARDEN LA NE T STREET FLEE St Paul's Cathedral CHEA PSIDE A A HI ’W AY RO Royal Albert Hall QUEE NEW ING ETH CE TO Science Museum Victoria & Albert Museum M PT B R O O KNIGHTSBRIDGE Harrod’s A N E S L O R K E AD RO PA A O TO R LA L A MB UA N T EE N ST TO M Natural History Museum L L M W E C R O G AT E T PON RE E T STRE SQ VICTORIA VICT ST ORIA 'S R E WG R L R D AC E ELEPHANT & CASTLE RO AD NC BELGRAVE SQUARE ST JAMES’S Buckingham PARK Palace ET RE Westminster Cathedral BO N S I N G T GR OS BIRDC SO O N EXHIBITIO PARLIAMENT SQUARE Westminster Abbey MARSHAM County Hall Houses of Parliament W AD LAMBETH E S NORTH TM IN ST G OU G L E R B R I D G E RO A D ST GE OR GE BOROUG H ROAD A N E AN PA RO M LA AD B R IDG E GE R O A D HYDE PARK CORNER ALK AGE W UT Albert Memorial YOR K HW Wellington Arch R OA STR Green Park BLACKFRIARS A RK GH CONSTITUTION HILL BB E R WESTMINSTER BRIDGE STREET H L O N EA HA LTO R O A D WA NT NS T S E FERRY ROAD ING NKME Victoria Station B EL G R A LAMBETH BR. 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RR TE E R O A D WA E Y WA NS RD RO NG C NE OU T W RE D AV IE S STRE R BO ND ST ST GE OA D SS R R K P A ST RE ET ET R LOO TER E WA RIDG B UD TH A L A N E P A LEY S TR E ET ST S’S ME JA ST R K NE LA HO R WHI S E GUA R D S R O A D T EHAL W A TE L R LO O R O A GR D VE EA H NO LA R P T AR P E N ROAD NN I N G T O N K E N’S GA CE RO AD HO EC E E T S T R CL ES R TO STREET REGENCY ST O LD TH OR LW WA R O A D R D SY TH DN AD RO U EY ST RL PO RTL OW ST RD EN AN D ST S H GR OV BE AU . 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ST THE WEST END HAR LEY EET EET W IM Broadcasting House (BBC) RID ING H E OUS RE ET ET NE QUE EN A STR NNE All Souls H PL. 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L ST NOE RE S A QU FRI RE GR EEK L ST ETTE MAN M RE Museum SVE N S OR ET TRE ST UI Sotheby’s CO B K EA ST RE ET ET ND EN LD GO A SH WA ST RE FT L O GROSVENOR SQUARE GRO BOU RDO N ST R T EE BR UT ON PL E AC ST RE ET SQ UA RE D AR RR GE EET STR GAR ADA M ’S ROW BR BE RK UT ON MO UNT ST T REE M A Y F A I R BU RL EY AL BE IN G N TO GS Royal Academy OW ALL SW SA CK VIL ST VIGO ER EW BR G L A S S H O US E ST RE ET R ST EE T LIS LE ST RE ET LEICESTER SQUARE RTIN ST MA R IC K STR EET KI NG ST T RE ET TA M PT S VI TO OW NEW R St Paul’s MA ID EN L OR D ST E AN London’s Transport Museum Savoy Chapel CK ST LEICESTER SQUARE WH D PICCADILLY CIRCUS COV E N R T R Y ST EET OX EN National Portrait Gallery National Gallery TRAFALGAR SQUARE R ST STR CE LA SP DO AN CH N A T S H Savoy Hotel PL AC E R AM Grosvenor Chapel SO STR UTH SOUT D LE H AU E Y STR ET EET H IL L R ST EE T HA Y’ S M EW S LE S ST R T EE P I C C A D YN St James’s T KS YOR OF KE DU ST CHARING CROSS VI JO F M AR ST RE ET I L L Y A OR E NG ST EET Post Office St Martin-inthe-Fields LL IE ST N AD SA VO Y CH A R Fortnum & Mason ST BU RY JE DU KE RM i ME S’S CH AR LES II R ST EE T E ST T JA CO CK S PU Charing Cross Station NO RT H RS ST RE ET Victoria Embankment Gardens EMBANKMENT HUN GER FOR T ST JAMES ’ S SQ U E AR R T EE Nelson’s Column CR ST O N R Z C U RD M A RK ET M EW S ET STRE SHEPHERD MARKET K ST GREEN PARK Ritz Hotel ST KI ST NG PA LL M L AL NORTH S UMBE RLAND AVENU E T AV EN E R S YA RE DB RID GE T EE TR K S OO B R Handel House ST ET RE Hamley's OL M O ADD B E S CHI NATOWN N Market E M B A N K M E N T HE OL D RT FO RD B R IC ST PI Lancaster House T DOWN ING S TR EET RICHMOND TERRACE V I C T O R I A Apsley House Clarence House M H E Park HYDE PARK CORNER Cenotaph PARLIAM ENT ST Wellington Arch VE CONSTITUTION H ILL KING CHAR LES STRE ET Palace Gardens PL AC E Buckingham Palace G E D C A B I R L K W A QUEEN ANNE’S GATE Cabinet War Rooms GREAT GEORGE STRE ET WESTMINSTER B RI DGE S T WES TMINS TER B R IDGE QUEEN ST OLD REET PARLIAMENT SQUARE Queen’s Gallery 0 250 yds Royal Mews BU IN CK GH AM TE GA UC Guards’ Museum KI NG Guards’ Chapel ST JAMES’S PET TY FRA Methodist Central Hall TOTHILL S TREET HA MG AT E NC E PARK D OA RY BR C T U A N SA St Margaret’s Houses of Parliament © Crown copyright Westminster Abbey Rive N Green Park A L L S t J a m e s ’s Banqueting House MoD r Th a A CC DI LL Y Spencer House QU E EN St James’s Palace AB ST Marlborough House Horse Guards E GUARDS AVENUE H O RS mes CE PLA ’S A M ES Queen’s Chapel MA RLB E AC ERR ET US HO ON RLT CA Duke of York’s Column Admiralty Arch G T SC RE A A OT L IT E H ND P ALL E LAC WH ET X St George’s SA St Anne’s RO MI ST WEST ST C D L LY S R BR CO E TR ET A Y UR G O FL RA L ST E RE T E RU SS EL L ST TO N D OA WI T MP ON Theatre Museum RE OL CK ST R ST ET RE BOND STREET DUK TRE E S ET G IL B ERT HANOVER SQUARE Liberty GRE M AT T EE S . 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Available from your local bookstore or online at www.The ROUGH GUIDE to Walks in London and Southeast England From picturesque towpath and woodland walks in the heart of the city to get-away-from-it-all hikes through the Chilterns and South Downs – the best walks within easy reach of the capital.com ISBN 1-85828-938-6.roughguides. 288pp .
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