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THE NUMBER ONE FABRICS TRADE FAIR FOR INTIMATES
SUMMER 2011 COLLECTIONS
PAVILION 3 - VIPARIS P ORTE D E VERS AI L L ES
THE FAIR 0 P. 3 TO 13
P. 14 TO 21
CASE STUDY N° 17
P. 22 TO 26
COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010
SERAM (FRANCE). INTERFILIÈRE LEADS FROM THE FRONT! INTERFILIÈRE FOLLOWS MARKET TRENDS AND HIGHLIGHTS THEM AT THE SHOW THROUGH THREE KEY THEMES WHICH WILL TAKE THE FORM OF GUIDED TOURS FOR BUYERS > These three FOCAL POINTS will also be showcased on the trends forum. MG CREATION (FRANCE). TDI TEXTIIDRUCK (AUSTRIA). “Loungerie” through the OASIS and TENDRESSE themes. INTERFILIÈRE is returning to its position as the only fabrics show alongside the fashion trade shows held at Porte de Versailles between January 23rd and 25th 2010. EUSEBIO (ITALY). SE DATEX (SPAIN). Shapewear through the TENDRESSE theme. Interfilière’s specific expertise in the intimates and beachwear sectors has enabled it to make its mark as a decisive. HUBER TRICOT (AUSTRIA). KOCHER/BOUTONS KOCHER (FRANCE). TOPP ITALIA (ITALY). BOSELLI (ITALY). WALTER NATTER (AUSTRIA). “LOUNGERIE”. KURODA LACE (JAPAN). ART MARTIN (FRANCE). FLEXYFORM (FRANCE). points of reference are changing and evolving … Participating in an event like Interfilière offers companies an opportunity to demonstrate their vitality and dynamism (81% of January 2009’s exhibitors are returning). MODA PIERRE (FRANCE). As was the case in September last. NELLY RODI – TRENDLAB (FRANCE). DOGI INTERNATIONAL (SPAIN). PROMOSTYL (FRANCE). Interfilière’s goal is to accompany its exhibitors and visitors and offer them the very best. With ever increasing globalization. COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 3 . lines are moving. EMMEGI-FERRARIO (ITALY). PIAVE MAITEX (ITALY) PIROLA GIOVANNI (ITALY). CODENTEL (FRANCE). Men’s underwear through the ANTIDOTE theme. Strength through unity: the majority of textile companies view taking part in trade shows as a crucial element of commercial strategy. HÄNDEL & DILLER (GERMANY). the three-day show will be located in pavilion 3 and is timed to coincide with the Salon International de la Lingerie which is mirroring the threeday format for its January session. IN A CHANGING MARKET. LUCIEN CASEZ (FRANCE).THE FAIR INTERFILIÈRE SEDUCTION ! With its 160 exhibitors. RUEFF TEXTIL (AUSTRIA). A continual source of new ideas. BE BE COTTON KNITTING (TAIWAN). ROMATEX (SUISSE). ROCLE BY ISABELLA (FRANCE). It is the place to meet market leaders. LIEBAERT (BELGIUM). FERNANDO VALENTE (PORTUGAL). LES TISSAGES PERRIN (FRANCE). FEINJERSEY (AUSTRIA). a hybrid of lingerie and loungewear: all the comfort of homewear that we love to wear out with ALBERT BÖSCH (AUSTRIA). MR CRÉATION (GERMANY). must-see event in the industry calendar.
MODA PIERRE (FRANCE). “MEN’S UNDERWEAR”. GRUPO MODA ESTILMAR (SPAIN). braids. HÄNDEL & DILLER (GERMANY). bra-cups. ROCLE BY ISABELLA . HUBER TRICOT (AUSTRIA). SOLSTISS . TDI TEXTILDRUCK (AUSTRIA). KURODA LACE (JAPAN). (ITALY). LES TISSAGES PERRIN (FRANCE). GROBELASTIC (SPAIN). INPLET PLETIVA (SLOVÉNIE). KOCHER/BOUTONS KOCHER (FRANCE). entre innovation et raffinement. ESF (FRANCE). ELASTIC TEXTILE EUROPE (GERMANY). OFFERING CHOICE. PIAVE MAITEX (ITALY).the heart of the product range… ACCESS FOLIES a sector that combines fun. PROMOSTYL (FRANCE). LUNAS (FRANCE). wovens. DEBS CORPORATION (JAPAN). CHANTY LACE. buttons. BISCHOFF TEXTIL (SWITZERLAND). CHARMING FABRICS (CHINA). PIROLA GIOVANNI (ITALY). LANGENDORF TEXTIL (GERMANY). hooks-and-eyes. KOCHER/BOUTONS KOCHER (FRANCE). FRAMIS (ITALY). SATAB. AQUATECH (FRANCE). I. LES TISSAGES PERRIN. BE BE COTTON KNITTING (TAIWAN).T. CHEYNET ELASTICS (FRANCE). BISCHOFF ROJA (TURKEY). ILUNA GROUP (ITALY). TIANHAI LACE (CHINA). on Saturday 23rd January. DOGI INTERNATIONAL (SPAIN). EUROSTICK (ITALY). EUSEBIO (ITALY). the Interfilière exhibitors have been asked to dress every child’s favourite cuddly toy… the teddy bear: CODENTEL . PIROLA GIOVANNI (ITALY). LIEBAERT (BELGIUM). performance and innovation in a treasure trove of finishing touches: beads. GABLER BAND (AUSTRIA). WILLY HERMANN – SUPERFINE (AUSTRIA). CREATIVITY. ribbons. EISENHÜT. LE « SHAPEWEAR » qui. ANDRÉ AVIO (FRANCE). WILLY HERMANN – SUPERFINE (AUSTRIA). MG CREATION (FRANCE). TESSITURA ROSSI (ITALY). RUEFF TEXTIL (AUSTRIA). ELASTIC TEXTILE EUROPE (GERMANY).E. prints and embellishment . SOPHIE HALLETTE MUEHLMEIER BODYSHAPING. LIEBAERT (BELGIUM). INNOVATION AND QUALITY INTERFILIÈRE IS STICKING TO ITS GUNS! THE INTERFILIÈRE PRODUCT RANGE IS DIVIDED INTO FOUR KEY SECTORS: LACE IT for quintessential lace… BROD’CUST featuring all the magic of embroidery… NEOSKIN bringing together knits. PENN TEXTILE SOLUTIONS (GERMANY). elastic… COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 4 . SERAM (FRANCE). MAGLIFICIO RIPA (ITALY). SERAM (FRANCE). MAD ABOUT SKIN (FRANCE). FASHION RESOURCES . PROMOSTYL (FRANCE). MR CRÉATION (GERMANY).THE FAIR > Within the framework of the “Sleepover party” organized by the Salon International de la Lingerie. est en constante évolution avec ALBERT BÖSCH (AUSTRIA). in response to high demand from buyers with ALGE ELASTIC (AUSTRIA).R. HONG TSAI INTERNATIONAL (TAIWAN).
ACCESS FOLIES). DENIER (SPAIN . FRAMIS (ITALY . NEOSKIN. TEXTILE LOGISTIC CENTER (GREECE – LACE IT). ELASTIC TEXTILE EUROPE (GERMANY . FOSTERING NETWORKING . The following companies will also be returning: BOUVELLE (FRANCE – NEOSKIN). BILLON CREA’LYS (FRANCE – NEOSKIN). GENERATING BUSINESS INTERFILIÈRE IS INNOVATING! MEET LINGERIE. IN ADVANCE… Over the last few sessions.ACCESS FOLIES). This service is being developed with the online launch of a web interface designed for scheduling meetings between exhibitors and buyers: COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 5 . CAP SUD (FRANCE – ACCESS FOLIES). Interfilière has set itself the objective of putting exhibitors in touch with the major buyers that they wish to meet through a series of B-to-B meetings organized ahead of the show. LUCIEN CASEZ (FRANCE – BROD’CUST). Interfilière has chosen the Italian embroidery specialist JUNIOR SRL ARTERICAMI BY ADELE ZIBETTI as Designer of the Year 2010. CCI DU CAMBRÉSIS (FRANCE – INSTITUTIONNEL). SEDATEX (SPAIN – NEOSKIN).ACCESS FOLIES). as was the case in January 2009. PENN TEXTILE SOLUTION (GERMANY). ORGANIZING BUSINESS ONLINE. A number of companies that usually exhibit at the September edition of Interfilière have decided to participate in January 2010: GRUPPO MODA ESTILMAR (SPAIN – NEOSKIN). Italy and Germany/Austria being the top-ranked exhibitor countries. within the framework of Paris Capitale de la Création. Finally. GUANZHOU SEAL BEAUTY (CHINA – ACCESS FOLIES). TOPP ITALIA (ITALY – ACCESS FOLIES). et qui exposent sur un stand cette session. MAURI ANGELO (ITALY . SHANGHAI PRESS et DOGI INTERNATIONAL (SPAIN) dans le secteur présents en janvier 2009 seulement en showrooms. with France. KOCHER/BOUTONS KOCHER (FRANCE – ACCESS FOLIES).– NEOSKIN). ROGER LESAGE (FRANCE – BROD’CUST). CHARMING INTIMATES (CHINA . FABRICS (CHINA – NEOSKIN). XINCHENG (CHINA – NEOSKIN). FITOR DISTRIBUICAO UNIPESSOAL (PORTUGAL – NEOSKIN). Interfilière is welcoming over 20 new exhibitors including ALBERT BÖSCH (AUSTRIA – BROD’CUST).THE FAIR The show’s 160 exhibitors represent 20 different countries.ACCESS FOLIES) .
Conference room. Meet Lingerie allows users to share information. for a natural and rustic atmosphere with a definite feelgood factor! THE GENERAL FORUM: “REVISITS THE GLOBAL VILLAGE CONCEPT” A new linear layout along the show’s main aisle encourages visitors to check out each house in turn for an insight into the different trends – “TENDRESSE”. EISENHÜT. Meet Lingerie is an excellent tool which allows visitors to track down new suppliers according to product type and rationalize their route around the show. ISCO ISIDOR. new ideas … the show’s most fabulous fabrics are showcased here in an explosion of memorable visuals and a wealth of fashion information. while enabling exhibitors to develop customer recruitment and business by encouraging customer loyalty. Upon registration.15pm .15pm Carlin International 4. 100% TREND-FOCUSED CONFERENCES: OVER TO THE EXPERTS! The Trends for Summer 2011 will be presented by the style agencies Concepts Paris.4. sheep and cows. FORSTER ROHNER. A key highlight of the Interfilière show. this satellite forum at the heart of the Access Folies sector conjures up an “Alpine Romance”: complete with meadows.30am . “OASIS”. through a series of prototypes.11. “ANTIDOTE” and “SUBLIME”: colours. improves and gauges the quality of meetings in order to satisfy the precise requirements of buyers and sourcing professionals.1. HÄMMERLE & VOGEL ). designs. prototypes.5. BISCHOFF TEXTIL. The service can then be monitored on a day-to-day basis via the platform and individual meetings schedules can be managed directly by the participants themselves. and of seven Swiss and Austrian embroiderers (UNION.45pm .THE FAIR > An Exhibitor/Visitor reception desk will be set up at the main entrance to Interfilière.15pm Concepts Paris 3. Pavilion 3. innovations.30am COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 6 .30am Nelly Rodi 12. buyers and exhibitors introduce themselves and indicate their preferences. Pavilion 3 – Aisle B 10. 100% FABRICS – 100% FASHION INTERFILIÈRE IS ALWAYS A CELEBRATION! > A new feature this year. this conference has been organized for those exhibiting at Interfilière and for a selection of gold buyers for both shows.45pm Promostyl AUTUMN/WINTER 2011/12 ALREADY! Offering a veritable sneak-preview of Autumn/Winter 2011/12. Promostyl. Individual contacts are then established and meetings scheduled in just a click. Pavilion 3 Aisle B Monday 25th January at 8. Director of Concepts Paris.15pm . this space is devoted to creative freedom and innovation for an ongoing celebration! ACCESS FOLIES INDULGES IN AN ALPINE ROMANCE! Promoting the know-how of the accessories manufacturers (with CHEYNET ELASTICS as partner. INTER-SPITZEN. It will be led by Jos Berry. Carlin International and Nelly Rodi on a daily basis: Conference room.
COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 7 . A few surprises here and there. Antique and vintage effects are everywhere combined with the latest techniques. Large florals feature on very wide. Tendresse is the one that has attracted most attention from manufacturers. like the pretty Leavers from PIZVAL or the more graphic motifs at CODENTEL. The big winners are the very high quality. FOCUS ON SHAPEWEAR Shapewear with power net in adorable. All-over laces make a big comeback with matching bands to create co-ordinating sets from pieces with different technical demands. ALBERT BOESCH and CHIH YI. Nostalgia has brought back true lace. with special touches that are no longer confined to a niche market such as the sequin details at MASTEX. very stretchy patterns is ultra soft and finally offers something for the young woman as at ELASTIC TEXTILE EUROPE and DRESDNER SPITZEN. more refined contrasting colours. Finally. and on high-leg briefs such as those by TAKEDA LACE. a blend of regret and progress.THE FAIR 100% FABRICS – 100% FASHION INTERFILIÈRE IS ALWAYS A CELEBRATION! THE GENERAL FORUM “REVISITS THE GLOBAL VILLAGE CONCEPT” SUMMER 2011 COLLECTIONS TENDRESSE Of Interfilière’s four themes. we are seeing in the collections two qualities combined: fineness and technique. very stretchy bands for maximum support. either monoelastic or in luxury materials like silk at PIZVAL. minimalist laces aimed at a fashionable youth market. Flowers are back in more delicate form and in softer.
Motifs are tinged with other cultures. Patterns acquire a glazed finish and are inspired by Moroccan tiles. like a bestiary of leopard or satin snakeskin flowers. and small graphic and Liberty prints at ROCLE BY ISABELLA have introduced a new category. Navy gets a new twist with a few eccentric acid touches.THE FAIR FOCUS ON LOUNGERIE AND “PRETTY NIGHT” Loungerie is dominated by Modal but blended with materials with a dry. Nudes are more tinted and tend towards pink. natural feel like silk. New arrivals are the matching knits and weaves as at DEBS or BE BE COTTON resulting in new garments like treggings. Lace is combined with jacquards like at TIANHAI LACE while beiges and blues are combined to perfection. OASIS This theme is inspired by the natural world. Prints are out of the ordinary with the use of new colours like the almost fluorescent yellow at LIEBAERT on knits and wovens. The influence of organic shapes gives us new patterns at SOLSTISS and furry finishes that are comfortable next to the skin. ANTIDOTE Focus on similarities between lingerie. The influence of other cultures is clear. like at BRODERIES DESCHAMPS or CHIEF YOU. our designer of the year. swimwear and ready-to-wear in the form of non-matching tops and bottoms. Finally JUNIOR ARTERICAMI. like new “action painting” effects. Satin effects are popular in woven materials. sand and earth. cotton and wool as seen in the collections by HUBER TRICOT and WILLY HERMANN. COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 8 . Precious details are delicate. like this Lurex yarn from ILUNA. BISCHOFF and BRODERIES DESCHAMPS continue their fruitful quest for new yarns with new textures and patterns. and patterns are daringly youthful and inspired directly by Africa like at MASTEX. The theme is neither all-ethnic nor all-European but borrows from both. “pretty night”: a clever mix of underwear and nightwear. Folklore influences embroidery which comes in colour. as at DEBS for large summery shirts. Acid green is used to superb effect on wovens. brings us magnificent panther on a tulle ground. There is an increasing use of crystal effects influenced by the scientific issues of the moment.
Metallic sheens on pink or red satin from LES TISSAGES PERRIN. FOCUS ON SWIMWEAR Swimwear gets the ethnic treatment for concepts from the bikini to the pareo and matching dress that can be worn on the beaches of Saint-Tropez or Miami. SUBLIME The brilliant combination of black and blue continues its rise. Power net inspired by corsets is ultra sexy yet soft and very stretchy. Laces are extremely stretchy and almost invisible. Finally.THE FAIR MASCULINE FOCUS Materials for the masculine market are not neglected. cabaret and exotic themes result in new effects such as the magnificent cut-out and incrusted fan details on a tulle ground that so impressed us at RICAMIFICIO EMME. Finally. All-over lace is very useful for creating little dresses and corsets to go with the bra and panties. Sexy lingerie gets subtle surface decorations. orange. very light fabrics that model the body for everyday wear. Stripes and small geometric patterns acquire eye-catching. like at TAKEDA LACE and NOYON DENTELLE . Animal grounds and new net effects go floral. SEDATEX has designed some great beach dresses. CHANTY LACE goes for intricate. Large scales are in order. shiny touches and fresh pastels. even for spring-summer. Note the shiny animal skins at EUSEBIO and the large florals at LIEBAERT. very British colours: green. COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 9 . with old classics taking new forms. LOUIS VIDON and BOSELLI add a touch of glamour. like at Foster Rohner.
It is this same surge of reenergized youth and impeccable quality that we are keen to celebrate at the heart of this new space entitled “Alpine Romance” and dedicated to European excellence. Cavalli. HEIDI IN LOVE WITH EISENHUT DELFT BLUE WITH HÄMMERLE & VOGEL MEADOW FLOWERS WITH ISCO – ISIDOR PORCELAIN FLORALS WITH INTER-SPITZEN AN ODE TO CHANEL WITH UNION GORGEOUS BLACKS WITH FORSTER ROHNER COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 10 . Ralph Lauren and Dior reinterpreted a playful joie de vivre borrowed from bygone eras. have long-established their expertise in the art of transforming these dreams into reality… In their most recent catwalk shows Chanel. Swiss and Austrian embroiderers and accessories manufacturers.THE FAIR ALPINE ROMANCE – ACCESS FOLIES SECTOR BEING CREATIVE TOGETHER… Lingerie is a story based on the imagination and dreams. It is a story capable of inspiring the exceptional décors and ornamentation that render it sublime. with its unparalleled creativity. With this in mind. with CHEYNET ELASTICS as partner. with plotlines guided by love and pleasure.
Reduced entry. all the way through to the finishing touches in design studios and Parisian couture houses.00pm from 01/11 to 31/03. dyeing and finishing operations. More than a simple museum-space.500 m2 of display space devoted to the know-how. a cultural and scientific interchange where visitors can watch the magic of lace production on working “Leavers” looms.00am-6. economic and social history and manufacturing secrets. December 25th and January 1st. in an exhibition designed by Cédric Gerlus. Catwalk show/performance on February 6th 2010 at 3. It also serves as a showcase for the lace-making profession.fr “ESPRIT LINGERIE” (SPIRIT OF LINGERIE): TEMPORARY EXHIBITION With the trend for lingerie that can be revealed or concealed. The catwalk show of her collections.00am-5. > “AUX MARINS CÉLESTES” (CELESTIAL SAILORS): FASHION SHOW AND TEMPORARY EXHIBITION The Cité de la dentelle has invited a group of young designers. documentation centre “DU PLANCHER AU PODIUM” (FROM THE FLOOR TO THE PODIUM): PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHILIPPE SCHLIENGER: TEMPORARY EXHIBITION Philippe Schlienger has offered to carry out a photographic project for Calais which will follow the manufacturing logic of lace. local and contemporary aspects. the International Lace and Fashion Centre is also a veritable hotbed of discovery. combining suits created by Françoise André.30pm Exhibition from February 7th to April 16th 2010 Useful information: Cité internationale de la dentelle et de la mode de Calais 135 quai du Commerce 62100 Calais +33 3 21 00 42 30 www. has been included in an exhibition design combining references to Polynesian culture with codes borrowed from naval uniforms and others from the cybernetic and hyper-technological domain. as well as the more contemporary aspects of the world-famous Calais lace. photography by Christophe Bonamis. sound and interactive videos signed Thibaud Roy and Timothée Zéphir. jewellery by Véronique Rémy.00pm from 01/04 to 31/10. restaurant. via the preparation of materials. Exhibition from 11th June to 7th November 2010 Opening hours: Daily. except Tuesdays 10. to take over the temporary exhibition space with a multi-discipline installation. 10. Shop. from the arrival of the raw material at the industrial sites (at the port or haulage depot). mutual exchanges between the world of apparel and the world of intimates are now well-established. This exhibition will focus on the reciprocal influence of these two domains. A discrete but hugely talented designer. the Calais International Lace and Fashion Centre (Pavilion 3 stand E26) features 2. techniques. December 2010 to April 2011 COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 11 . Françoise André aims to free menswear from its stuffy image by introducing lace and metal and giving it a dreaminspiring quality.30pm and 5. bearing witness to the industrial history of Calais and Saint-Pierre.cite-dentelle. taking a closer look at historical. presented during the 2009 European Heritage Days at the André Diligent La Piscine museum in Roubaix. Preferential group rates available on +33 (0)3 21 00 42 32. working together as the “Future Fashion and Arts” association. Closed on May 1st. manufacture.THE FAIR CALENDAR OF EVENTS FOR 2010 Inaugurated on June 11th 2009 and housed in an authentic 19th century factory.
its directors have decided to embark on a new « Our collections are characterized by style choices based on three different angles which are combined with harmony and functionality. logistics. involving everything from expanding the factory (to reinforce production. with sequins or gathering. The fact that we are well-established Hence. JUNIOR ARTERICAMI EMOTIONAL ANGLE « The market is on the look-out for new sources of stimulation and enthusiasm. Since 1971. while taking on board environmental issues and sustainable development. the company’s objective has been to satisfy the requirements of each client with passion and constantly initiate new projects and challenges. services and open a new quality-control lab) to making the most of human resources. are just a small selection of the potential product range.THE FAIR INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 DESIGNER OF THE YEAR AWARD WITHIN THE FRAMEWORK OF PARIS CAPITALE DE LA CRÉATION. The company’s experience and renewed creativity. despite the current market situation. using multihead machines. INTERFILIÈRE HAS CHOSEN THE ITALIAN EMBROIDERER JUNIOR SRL ARTERICAMI BY ADELE ZIBETTI AS DESIGNER OF THE YEAR 2010. » COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 12 . Laser-cut embroidery. is an Italian embroiderer and leader in the European market for upscale lingerie. > STAND C21/D22 NEOSKIN path (following a well-defined investment strategy). ready-to-wear and swimwear. pave the way towards exclusive products and bespoke service. We try to ensure that our designs convey this desire to arouse emotion and stimulate. combined with its all-important know-how. to create with passion and renewed strength and offer a fresh range of new products.
when we gauge sales success together with our clients. a laser-cutting system and multi-head machines featuring state-of-the-art technology. especially at a difficult time like this.it COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 13 . 99 21050 CAIRATE (VARESE) Tél : 00 39 0 331 310065 www. Via Monte Rosa. FUNCTIONAL AND CLIENT-FOCUSED ANGLE The poetry evoked above must then be transformed into concrete actions. such as cotton. It’s important not to forget that creating means inspiring emotion and surprise.” INNOVATIVE ANGLE Our design team focused on seeking out alternative embroidery grounds to the traditional tulle. microfibre. Our embroidery can only be genuinely appreciated at the end of the process. enables us to offer a combination of technical prowess and functionality for superior quality. ready-to-wear and beachwear) enables our design studio to seek inspiration in three different product universes and offer the very best of our creativity in our new Summer 2011 collection. At the same time. Using a variety of materials. satin and jersey grounds. we continue to favour relationships with suppliers who implement environmentallysound policies and offer OEKOTEX-certified products. We aim to encourage customer loyalty by providing products that are capable of inspiring emotions and at the same time commercially sound.ricamificiojunior.THE FAIR in the three embroidery markets (intimates. Service and quality round-off our commercial policy.
buckles… Iron-on motifs: diamante. nylon. microencapsulation (skin-care. The interior of the spacer fabric is perforated to reinforce its properties. plain jerseys in gauges 24 to 36. pleating. 28-gauge jacquards with large or small repeats. elastic. which allow the air to circulate for optimal comfort. etc. transparent. Magnetic and ingenious accessories and decorative elements: diamante. beads. fringes. offering the cups enhanced ventilation to keep the wearer comfortable in hot temperatures… BE BE COTTON KNITTING (TAIWAN) > STAND E31/F32 NEOSKIN This company is highly committed to sustainable development and research with its ROSE programme (Reducing-Recycling-Rescue / OzoneOrganic-Original / Save-Sustain-Safe / EcofriendlyEvolution-Earth). bamboo. rayon. A specialist in synthetic-blend stretch knits (nylon/ polyester) and double mercerised cotton jacquards. push-up. invisible zips… Shoulder straps: silicone. satin. Tencel. bamboo. beaded. have been developed for Summer 2011. bright sequins… Diamante zips with a double or single row of rhinestones.EXHIBITOR’S NEWS INTERFILIÈRE SUMMER 2011 COLLECTIONS ECOLOGY AND SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT ALWAYS FIRMLY ON THE AGENDA… ALBERT BÖSCH (AUSTRIA) > STAND E40 BROD’CUST Guipure trim and braid. metallic effects.) BRA CUP (TAIWAN) > STAND K37 ACCESS FOLIES This company specializes in haberdashery and accessories: bra-cups featuring pockets of air or water. tulle. Applications: printing. Seduction (gorgeous multicoloured embroidery. anti-odour. Modal. velvet. terry and fleece. Tactel. diamante. nipple-covers. velvet. T-bars. with Meryl. collar decorations… Perforated spacer cups. dévoré. etc. multicoloured embroidery on tulle grounds. rib knits in gauges 14 to 30. very glamorous). embossing. ventilated spacer cups. etc. “tattoo” tulle. suede. flocking and lasercutting… COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 14 . massage. 1950s (richly embroidered braid combined with thermocut technology). buttons. shape-memory. etc. Lyocell. Delight and Coolplus yarns. minus ion. piqué on various grounds. stretch lace. fragrance. polyester. viscose. glittering leather. silk. Properties: antibacterial. cotton embroidery on tulle and thermocut batiste… Themes for Summer 2011: Nostalgia (cotton embroidery on tulle and batiste). bows. etc. large and small yarndyed stripes. brooches. aluminium studs. stay-white padding. Materials: organic cotton. buckles. Trimming: diamante tassels. A wide range of surface finishes including prints. cotton and polyester widths. rich. pendants. sliding. embossing.
the organic world is making its presence felt to an ever greater extent. aspiring to a natural world full of innocent dreams and colourful fantasies. with a multitude of possibilities. romantic with discreet modern overtones. Design: CADT creates collections of artistic and technical designs (drafting) for Leavers and Raschel lace manufacturers. This theme springs surprises. dark amaranth stalks featuring tentacles. imbued with purity and simplicity. amber etc. wood. bougainvillea. and fancy geometry. mankind’s environmental awareness is becoming more acute with time. We go into raptures over the sheer softness of the orchids. extremely elegant and contemporary. Tea Time: a whiff of cinnamon floats in the air. lingerie prints… Eco-textiles: circular knits. Feng shui A sophisticated atmosphere. CHEYNET ELASTICS (FRANCE) > STAND G31/H34 ACCESS FOLIES Organic Design: at the dawn of an era when the future will go hand in hand with nature. A richly coloured world: yellow. The fragrance of incense wafts through the air. A plantbased spirit in perpetual motion for a theme that is vague without being excessive. With a decided note of glamour. this theme enchants the most particular of women. jacquards. Infused tea and a swirl of milk are new sources of inspiration. COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 15 . Lace features floral friezes and bowls of flowers. Training: CADT offers a variety of training options: sketching. playing with contrast. double knitted with recycled polyester… DENTELLES DARQUER (FRANCE) > STAND B7/C10 LACE IT Exotic fragrances Joyfully contrasting flowers clipped on vertical. lace. training on its SAPO system. a blending of fabrics and motifs to soothe and pamper you. turquoise etc. evoking the magical sensations of a sacred ritual.EXHIBITOR’S NEWS Diamante-effect buckles which use a special material in place of diamante to create the same effect at a reduced price… CADT (SPAIN) > STAND A24 LACE IT CADT is split into three departments: Software: which develops the SAPO lace design and drafting software for Leavers and Raschel machines. single and double jerseys for lingerie. Lace is highly stylised. The warm colours of spring offer a palette of refined pastel shades. CADT works with Karl Mayer. earth. sportswear and outerwear… For Summer 2011: fine-gauge knits. CHARMING FABRICS (CHINA) > STAND E6 NEOSKIN Fabrics made from synthetic fibres. Bright sunshine This theme takes us on a poetic promenade through the gardens of the world and the imagination. mauve. This theme conjures up the quintessence of a Chinese garden. The entire collection satisfies the ecological requirements of OEKOTEX certification. roses. beachwear. tulips. Eco-textiles: articles made from natural materials such as lempur. The eye discovers the precious details of refined china and perforated paper. the senses are awakened by a few heady drops of orange-flower water… An ingenuous atmosphere. A painter’s palette with pastel tints. with a penchant for ceremony. with netting that recalls those used in ceramics. technical drawing for Raschel or Leavers machines. crabion and bamboo. A source of harmony drawing on bamboo. Returning to our roots. These two themes have resulted in a series of wonderfully light and fine creations. fancy knits using fine yarns. mesh knits.
metal-spiral and covered). The trend is dominated by shades of gold. plain 100% cotton machined weaves. fancy elastic. transparent and modern fabrics. underwire-casing in microfibre and satin. hook-and-eyes and hook-andeye tape using microfibre (a “second-skin” fabric). etc. 50% silk satins. fantasy tapes … Loungewear special: transparent and silicone rubber elastic. brushed tricot). What particularly sets this trend apart are the materials. plain 100% cotton and 50% cotton. plain 100% cotton voile. In terms of colour. underwires. COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 16 . etc. the soft knit quality. C80s. plain 50% cotton 50% silk voiles. injectionmoulded crystal diamante on rigid and stretch grounds. Here. Knitted fabrics: jerseys (100% combed cotton. plain and printed 100% cotton seersucker. plain oneway stretch satins in 94% cotton. plains and prints. printed 100% silk seersucker. olive and coral tones: new Rascheltronic fabrics (32 E yarn count) extend into developments with natural fibres. shiny/matt effects and products with “engineered” edges. a fine jersey and other grounds using the finest yarns: Supima cotton C100s. C50s & Micromodal 60s/1 for both plains and prints … Even finer yarns for plain and printed “free cut” fabrics with a variety of different finishes. rose and petrol. C60s. elastic. lace. FASHION RESOURCES (FRANCE) > STAND L30 ACCESS FOLIES Haberdashery and accessories for lingerie. the creative direction is feminine and sensual. the modern shapewear and the first warp-knit material with the technical characteristics of weftloc fabric. fantasy tapes… For Summer 2011. diamante buttons. Textronic products and natural-look tulle. Delicacy is the season’s most upscale trend. it is dominated by clay. cotton lace braiding. the trend is dominated by blackberry. Bra-back hook-and-eyes in various fabrics (organza. plain and printed chiffons (using cotton-blend satins and cloths). etc. boning (woven. bra-cups. In terms of colour. with satin optics manufactured on a knitting machine. EMMEGI – FERRARIO (ITALY) > STAND F15 NEOSKIN Manifattura Emmegi srl merged with Manifattura Ferrario srl in April 2009 and took the name Emmegi – Ferrario spa following a capital increase. underwire casing.EXHIBITOR’S NEWS DJIC LIMITED (TAIWAN) > STAND F23 NEOSKIN For Summer 2011. comfortable and designed as a pleasure to wear. Untamed Nature: it is the new interpretation of animal skins and nature-inspired motifs that distinguishes this trend from the others. plain 100% cotton dotted Swiss. lemon and violet: new Raschel lace. bejewelled straps. transparent. Motifs are trendy. beaded and diamante jewels. ELASTIC TEXTILE EUROPE (GERMANY) > STAND E11/F10 NEOSKIN Sensitive Fiction is an urban trend for clear silhouettes using reflective.100% micro-modal). Prints are designed for intimates and beachwear with specific embellishments. readyto-wear and beachwear. romantic and floral. diamante buckles. microfibre. Fabrics are fine. 6% Lycra ®. plain and yarndyed knits in 95% MicroModal 5% elastane. cotton and polyester machined weaves… Woven fabrics: plain and printed 100% cotton chiffon. grey.
are typical of Lenpur™. a new generation of fibre. soft and fine Jacquardtronic and Textronic Raschel lace (using 32 Karl Meyer machines)… Featuring ISO 9001 and Oeko-tex certification. Eco-textiles: “eco-friendly” products can now be defined as the key to any successful lace collection. with a layer of ultra-glossy polyester on the reverse-side. surface (matt and glossy) or weight (airy and dense). silky handle and glossy finish. Iluna also offers the famous “variable module” using the elastomer (in the form of bands or following the body’s curves) to create a push-up effect. Trevira® Bioactive helps stop the spread of bacteria and reduce unpleasant odours. Its flat profile creates air chambers which insulate against the cold and trap warmth within the fabric. Fabrics featuring Trevira® Bioactive: thanks to a special active component integrated within its fibres. This fibre is produced in accordance with sustainable development principles. Qualities featuring Lenpur™. Fibres and yarns are of natural origin and used in sufficient quantities to promote all forms of ecological awareness and responsibility. Chantilly laces are extremely refined with the simplicity of finishes taken to extremes. Iluna’s Summer 2011 collection sets the scene for creativity and places the accent on contrasts: whether this involves handle (spongy and soft). it can be used to further the quest for ever finer fabrics. This renewable resource (Bio-PDO) is produced from corn starch using a patented fermentation process. Moreover. they are kind to the skin.EXHIBITOR’S NEWS HÄNDEL + DILLER (GERMANY) > STAND E13/F12 NEOSKIN Superfine E44-gauge jacquards … Very fine-gauge qualities. Fabrics featuring Biophyl™. these laces are sure to satisfy even the most demanding brands… COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 17 . Good moisturemanagement properties also keep the surface of the skin dry and comfortable. Qualities featuring Viloft®. achieved thanks to potential yarn counts (Nm 225/1). A soft. and offer excellent wear-comfort with a clean and pleasant freshness. manufactured using the new MicroModal AIR fibre in gauges up to E50: the light and fine qualities of the new MicroModal® AIR fibre cannot fail to impress. Fabrics created using this fibre offer an unusually high level of skin-kindness with thermoregulating properties comparable to wool and linen. ILUNA (ITALY) > STAND A7/B10 LACE IT Iluna never fails to make an impact in the creative domain thanks to its innovative POLYBACK technology. which consists of 100% eucalyptus cellulose and offers the fibre a particularly soft and natural handle. Biophyl™ combines the positive characteristics of polyester and nylon in a single fibre and lends the fabric high stability and stiffness. as well as improved surface quality. a glossy finish and good dimensional stability. This technology allows for the production of mouldable Jacquardtronic lace. produced using a special ecological process and offering good resistance to dirt and pilling. reminiscent of a mercerized yarn. KURODA LACE (JAPAN) > STAND B29/C30 LACE IT Mainly produces a wide range of original. Fabrics created using this fibre satisfy even the strictest hygiene requirements.
EXHIBITOR’S NEWS LES TISSAGES PERRIN (FRANCE) > STAND C17 NEOSKIN The collections produced by Les Tissages Perrin demonstrate a wide range of expertise. LIEBAERT (BELGIUM) > STAND C19/D20 NEOSKIN Jacquards produced on Raschel machines with weave effects (transparent/opaque). “Audacity” an “ultra-silk” range offers the ideal showcase for precious and delicate fabrics. while maintaining all the qualities of the natural fibre and flocked viscose fabrics (gauge 28) work well with lurex for fashion-forward effects in the intimates sector. digital printing with over 500 different designs… MAGLIFICIO RIPA (ITALY) > STAND D31/E32 NEOSKIN Following an in-depth analysis of the market. The Nature line in the LIGHT™ range features square elasticity. as always: a range of reverse jerseys. LIGHT™ can be blended with silk and cashmere. tiny. The raw material selected was Dryarn®. prints and plains … “Seduction” the silk line by Les Tissages Perrin. COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 18 . high comfort and offers the wearer a feeling of wellbeing. Jacquards produced on Raschel machines for imitation embroidery and lace. camisoles and tops blur the boundaries between revealed and concealed. even for the most sensitive skins or highly allergic candidates. thus filling a gap in the existing textile offering. The Skin Comfort® project was conceived jointly by Maglificio Ripa’s Director. animal skins and “bird” motifs are reinterpreted in the Seduction line. “second-skin” fabrics. already showcased at the previous edition of Interfilière. satin. crêpe. a flurry of silk. handle and refinement: soft satin. Georgette. angel silk… The codes of ultra-femininity and seduction are sources of inspiration with romantic flowers and bows… Summer 2011 is seeing the return of large ginghams on cloqué fabrics and textured effects… A range of silk jacquards with a second-skin handle and multicoloured jacquards. corsetry and sportswear. Les Tissages Perrin are continuing to develop “Seduction”. Luca Bianco. in terms of design. Maglificio Ripa is launching Skin Comfort®. they satisfy the most exacting specifications. It is also excellent for presetting. a professor at the Politecnico de Milan. handle and colour. Eco-textiles: several 100% cotton fabrics. fine and reactive tricots on warp and circular knitting machines (very fine gauges). One and two-way stretch jacquards and silk: chiffon. a patented and innovative fabric. or oversized versions. an ultra-stylish line dedicated to garments that can be worn during the day or at night: nighties. spun yarns using natural fibres of very high quality. offering a silkysmooth and sensual version of comfort. a new family of cosmetic knits featuring anti-cellulite and firming properties… And. ULTRALIGHT Nature (gauge 54) is presented in a MicroModal blend and LIGHT™ (gauge 44) which owes its soft handle and excellent hold to Cupro. Silks are becoming ever more sophisticated. In the same way. Spots are revisited in multicoloured. Recognized for their refined fabrics for intimates. twill. zones with varying thread counts and structures. gauze. dries quickly and is equally well-suited to refined lingerie. designed to fulfil ever increasing skin compatibility requirements as regards dermatitis and allergies. and Maurizia Botti (MR Studio Innovation Project). Dermatological testing has demonstrated that this exceptional microfibre has no undesirable effect on the skin whatsoever. babydolls. who supervised and coordinated the project from start to finish. Ever attentive to the market and their clients.
asserting this return to classics. at once understated and luxurious. with or without straps… A strapless bandeau. with geometric motifs for sensual. available in extra-large sizes up to 105 DD. Arty A romantic theme that’s ideal for women who state their new desire for authenticity and simplicity. “push 2 sizes” bra-cups and a new “Décolleté” line. due to the disappearance of historic forests.EXHIBITOR’S NEWS Sustainable development: Maglificio Ripa actively participates in the “Bakhita” project which complements its ongoing research into environmentally-friendly natural fibres. without sacrificing sophistication. modern women. sexy and a teeny bit provocative. Eco-textiles: organic cotton and aloe vera lines. All the different techniques are used. Savoir-faire and gorgeous fabrics combine in this upmarket theme. Floral motifs come in all shapes. Rebellious and daring. Temptation This theme. visual designs. It is an area in which wood exploitation is very important. who love up-to-the-minute items that play with retro. They mismatch their garments. Premium-Cup: an upscale selection of bra-cups to satisfy the highest quality demands… Muehlmeier offers new cups using very high quality foam and fabrics for the price of standard cups… Memory foam: crush-proof bra-cups which return to their original shape. camouflage details take a novel turn. The women of the villages have joined forces to form the “BAKHITA Association” whose aim is to make the most of women’s potential to further African development. flirting with asymmetry.174km². inspired by modern architecture. MUEHLMEIER (GERMANY) > STAND J33 ACCESS FOLIES Trendsetters are predicting a vintage inspiration for underwear to be worn as outerwear and strapless corsetry: for Summer 2011. home to around 70. divided between around 100 villages. Akebu is an African territory of around 1. An ultrafine polyester cover lends bra-cups a silky feel and optical effect for the price of a regular cup. intricate lace inspired by eyelet embroidery.000 inhabitants. is very striking. COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 19 .000 fruit-trees over 100km along the banks of Akebu’s various rivers and streams. which taps into motifs from the Twenties. with Jacquardtronic looming large. they flaunt their assets and assert their personality. Jacquardtronic and Textronic for mesh and netting that fit clearly defined retro lines. with a contemporary twist. A new take on archives in a dainty vintage twist. as do scroll effects. for active women. The project’s objective is to plant around 20. carefully recorded in Noyon dentelle’s amazing archives: it’s a tribute to the past. NOYON DENTELLE (FRANCE) > STAND B7/C10 LACE IT Chic This core theme of the collection embodies elegance à la française. Muehlmeier is offering a full range of bustiers featuring integrated underwires for soft shaping. Their watchwords: comfy and casual. Organic and studded. Jacquardtronic and Textronic prevail with dainty. Patchwork or animal hide effects and other ultra graphic designs weave a sexy attitude. adapting smoothly to all different shapes of breast… New: super soft memory foam. with simple.
designed not only for sports activities but also for those who enjoy the great outdoors. 180g/m² and Olympia Mirror. arabesques. Olympia Plus. At the same time. softness and comfort. these fabrics can also be moulded to optimize the motifs. a production and finishing method that allows fabrics to reflect the sun’s rays. harmoniously placed on a sheer ground to create a light and discrete relief pattern. Two new versions are now being presented: the first features a black microfibre base with coloured edges and the second features a coloured microfibre base with black edges. Olympia is produced using Top Tex knitting. Based on these principles. breathable fabrics offering strength. stretch. floral patterns. Dark colours absorb both visible and invisible rays of sunlight. ranging from classics to fashionforward shades. warm and delicate pastels to lively brights. Injecting a little fantasy into beachwear with the new line of elastic fabrics knitted on jacquard machines. generating symptoms of tiredness and muscular stress. COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 20 . Tender Dream: a range of jacquard fabrics characterized by small motifs. (covered by a worldwide patent since 1996) and developed in three versions Olympia. cover and comfort. using Coldblack® technology. Moreover.EXHIBITOR’S NEWS PIAVE MAITEX (ITALY) > STAND C31 NEOSKIN As is the case each season. Procuring a sensation of wellbeing during competitive sports contributes to athletes’ positive state of mind. effects. the Rainbow line of warp-knitted bands has been extended. research has resulted in impressive performances in terms of stretch and improved wear-comfort without constriction. they maintain their characteristics and performances in terms of stretch. designed to be different since they are rich in shapes. a bright fabric for a “wet” look. It is being used for the first time for the Olympia range. Coldblack® sun protection: Piave Maitex carries out ongoing research to create technical fabrics offering effective heat regulation and UV protection. This has further enhanced the product’s versatility and allows for countless colour combinations in the production of beachwear. wearability. Piave Maitex has developed a series of fabrics in cooperation with Schoeller. reflected lights and new graphics. elegant and original. the finished edges and “free cut” potential optimize and simplify manufacturing possibilities. At the same time. Rainbow bands: thanks to its recent success. 165g/m². a series of fine. quick-dry properties. designed for young and sexy underwear. cover. they are light. volume. playing beach volleyball or going for a simple jog. openwork and layered motifs. unconventional apparel and original beachwear coordinates. reduce heat gain and provide reliable protection against UV rays. Offering perfect adhesion. different because they are on-trend. “Olympia” a whole spectrum of colours: the Swimwear 2011 colour range features a vast selection of stylish shades. motifs inspired by classical china. easy and comfortable to wear. The young and bright colour palette has been expanded to include a selection of pastels. A comprehensive offer. ranging from romantic florals to modern graphics. soft and fresh. Long-wave UV-A rays can penetrate deeply into the skin and accelerate its aging process. They are presented in a range of fashion colours with a variety of relief patterns. Piave Maitex is always at the cutting-edge of innovation. underwear and outerwear garments with unlimited stylistic creativity and freedom.
as well as aromatherapy using microencapsulation. embroidery. hooks-and-eyes. notably in a superfine 50-gauge. as well as the price (these two new qualities being cheaper than a conventional cotton knit). wash-resistant flocked velvet lace. UTAX (FRANCE) > STAND H39/J40 ACCESS FOLIES Accessories for lingerie. And. metallic or glacéfinish Chantilly laces which are also capable of withstanding household washing and maintaining their soft. Eco-textiles: organic cotton guipure trims and embroidery… WILLY HERMANN (AUSTRIA) > STAND C11/D10 NEOSKIN Following the introduction of organic cotton. as ever. powdery. Lace featuring a special net with large holes… New type of lace using a 20D polyamide with long filaments and Lycra® to create lace with ruffles and a small flower motif… Combination of a chemical lace effect and satinbacked lace to create a feeling of hand-cut lace. straps. beads. underwire-casing. For Summer 2011. This technique can be used on 95% of fabrics. boning. lace. Ot Hybrid: underwiring which uses the properties of memory foam to achieve foldable tips. straps. transfers. a new range of very light narrow laces. Pocket nf hook and eye: seamless hooks-and-eyes. textile transfers created using materials which are heat-bonded with a polyurethane film before cutting. which offer total comfort thanks to the softness of the fabric and padding which gives a “cushion” effect in nylon and spandex. lace made from silk or blends of silk and bamboo. corsetry and beachwear: underwire. COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 21 . silky handle. with or without elastane. created using a yarn consisting of 20% recycled cotton and 80% conventional cotton. Willy Hermann is now adding recycled cotton to its collection. SOLSTISS (FRANCE) > STAND B16 LACE IT Chantilly lace is trimmed with coloured or black thread to highlight the motif. TESSITURA COLOMBO ANTONIO (ITALY) > STAND C26 LACE IT Polyamide and viscose fabrics with a special twotone effect. metallic accessories. rings.. Reactions to this new partiallyrecycled knit have proved satisfactory. bra-forms… For Summer 2011. metal buckles. This responsible approach has enabled the German knit specialist to launch two new knit qualities. Motifs are then applied by the client using a heattransfer press. The high percentage of conventional cotton ensures that the fabric offers comparable solidity to a traditional knit. etc.EXHIBITOR’S NEWS SERAM (FRANCE) > STAND G35/H38 ACCESS FOLIES Accessories and decorative elements for intimates and swimwear: bows. creation of a special stocking collection… TIANHAI LACE (CHINA) > STAND A17/B20 LACE IT New technology which can be used to produce knitted lace with embroidered and print effects on the same piece of lace thanks to a 31-bar Textronic machine. plastic fastening. The wearer can thus readjust the underwire correctly when it becomes uncomfortable. buttons. with clients being sensitive to the ethical argument. microfibres.. including the very lightest fabrics: chiffons.
” explains Jean Malraux. the organic textile and eco-textile market is clearly influenced by the development strategies implemented by companies in the sector. or can their recognized intrinsic proper ties help them reach the level of synthetic fibres and non-ecological natural fibres such as conventional cotton? For the moment. it’s important not to attempt to pass off any old product as organic. one thing is cer tain: it is clear that a number of collections in the aisles of Interfilière are moving in the direction of sustainable development. It must comply strictly with the appropriate standards. Working with organic products is particularly difficult in our market – the embroidery market – since threads need to be ideal for embroidery. A SIGN OF THE TIMES With some viewing it as a niche market and others seeing it as the market of the future. “It looks like these products are a sign of the times. Ever more attentive to what they buy and what they wear. long fibres practically always involve chemical treatments. ECOLOGICAL FIBRES AND POLYMERS DERIVED FROM ORGANIC MATERIALS: WHERE IS SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT HEADING? Are these a key ingredient in any range? At a time when it is widely agreed that the future will be green. CEO of Broderies Deschamps. Unfortunately. However. with limited scope in times of economic crisis. This is particularly true for those operating in the intimates market. the question raised by exhibitors at the Interfilière trade show is a crucial one.CASE STUDY N° 17 INTERFILIÈRE CASE STUDY N° 17 ORGANIC COTTONS. Sidestepping the organic movement is not an option these days. i. What is the future of ecological fibres? Will they be confined to a micro market.e. consumers are as mindful of their health as they are of their wallets and are prepared to spend 20% more to ensure that clothing purchased is ecological. long and strong. COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 22 . and that means long fibres.
cotton alone represents 95% of organic textile fibre consumption. Produced using seeds. insecticides. Even though the demand for organic cotton in the textile market seems to have reached its upper limit over the last few months.CASE STUDY N° 17 The same concerns and dilemma apply in the lacemaking sector. Today. The only ecological material that we could use is recycled polyester. such as Eco-Boudoir. have based their success on organic and/or fair-trade products. obtained by recycling residues. alongside animal fibres) are proving very popular in current collections. Organic Exchange. Etam. but also as a fuel and fertilizer. hemp. it is also highly absorbent and antiseptic. The majority of them satisfying the requirements of today’s intimates market: light. By the same token. A number of young brands. Are observers justified in wondering about the repercussions of the worldwide economic climate on the development of organic cotton? Some believe that the financial crisis encourages companies to limit risks and postpone development projects. ramie and sisal. cotton of course. Althéane and many others. Huit. The first organic cotton wasn’t really launched on the market until 1990. Boasting relaxing properties. Nettles: a very robust and naturally insulating hollow fibre. is the perfect choice from an ecological point of view: the fibre’s tubular structure makes it insulating and light. a figure that is 20% higher than demand. We feel that the industry has made insufficient progress with regard to thread count. or recycled synthetic fibres. Victoria’s Secret and Stella McCartney have also embraced the organic movement. including pilling and shrinkage. the organic cotton market is an easy one to get to grips with. In addition to age-old fibres such as manila. Occidente. stalk. Water consumption must also be reduced. insulating and antibacterial. Hinoki cypress trees offer an antibacterial fibre. according to the Cirad. such as Lyocell.5 tons of fibre. Well-defined by the various certifying agencies. Peau Ethique. Organic cotton must be grown in accordance with organic farming principles. cotton must be grown in “living” soil that has been free of any pesticides. In terms of raw fibre. where the demand has accelerated during the last few months. worldwide production represents 32. “At the moment we have a real problem with the raw materials. chemical input or pesticides. according to the US non-profit organisation. WHAT ARE THE OPTIONS? To be considered as organic. COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 23 . When it comes to defining ecological fibres we should nevertheless proceed with caution. vegetable fibres (which belong to the natural fibre category. making lace from organic cotton is currently out of the question. Global production of organic cotton has increased by over 150% and reached 145.8. A BRAND NEW MARKET The organic textile market is a recent market. coir. We would be incapable of satisfying specifications with regard to various issues. with successive increases from USD 245 million in 2001 to USD 583 million in 2005 and are now in excess of USD 2 billion. which does not require water or pesticides. ecological cellulose-based fibres. which is used as a textile fibre. jute and linen. Hypoallergenic. without artificial fertilizer. herbicides and chemical growth stimulators for at least three years. on natural compost.000 tons in 2008. Sales have continued to rise over the last decade or so.” explains Anne Marie Langry from Noyon. the intimates market is continuing to pursue the sustainable development path. Peat. G=9. but that would give us problems when it comes to dying. avant-garde designers are introducing or reintroducing us to a number of fibres with interesting ecological properties. since it is important not to confuse natural vegetable fibres (some offering a lower environmental impact) with polymers of organic origin. leaves or bark.
Growing this hardy perennial also helps combat desertification. Also highly creative. The German knit specialist feels that it launched the product too soon and now prefers to limit its use in basic fabrics to bespoke orders with OekoTex-certified dyestuffs. it has still failed to find a solution to the price problem with its supplier. Although we do have considerable demand from the US. It continues to believe in COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 24 . Sales Director at Händel & Diller. Not in the intimates sector anyway. Faced with a sometimes harsh reality. Like coconut. explains Sebastian Hotz. including a capacity to help regulate blood pressure. Penn Textile Solutions has chosen to highlight the noble. as well as being wonderfully soft. as is the case for Elastic Textile Europe. the organic cotton embroidery and guipure trims produced by Solstiss took two years to develop. launching a full programme is just one step away. respectful and elegant aspects. Like Piave Maitex. who include it almost systematically in the range. they also offer deodorizing properties. since organic cotton can cost 30 to 40% more than conventional cotton. The fibre is obtained from the residues left by sugar production. an alternative vision of organic cotton is possible. Although Solstiss succeeded in resolving the technical problems posed by the threads after considerable testing. the apocynum fibre has been used since ancient times. certified by the Organic Exchange. as demonstrated by BeBe Cotton and Penn Textile Solutions. fibres obtained from coconut shells have a porous structure. From there. as well as the creative. Light and insulating. Sugar-cane is another fibre that is currently being developed in Japan. we were aiming to satisfy the requirements of our clients who were looking for elegant organic products.CASE STUDY N° 17 Developed in Japan. which has recently launched a whole range of ICEA/Gots-certified organic cotton knits going by the name of PM Bio. the fibre is then combined with cotton and appreciated for its dry and fresh handle. Although… “We’re not sensing an increasing demand for organic products at the moment. featuring all the qualities of polyamide. having offered it for six years already. BeBe Cotton’s rescue plan entitled ROSE (ReducingRecycling-Rescue/Ozone-Organic-Original/SaveSustain-Safe/Ecofriendly-Evolution-Earth) includes blends of organic cotton and dyed cotton in a range that the Taiwan-based producer has designed to be both ecological and original. we have maintained two or three versions in the last three collections. notably from German knit companies. a popular fibre with cutting-edge brands such as Bruno Banani. attractive and sexy side of organic cotton. the German company currently relies principally on Biophyl™. It combines the appearance of silk with a cotton handle and the strength of linen. as well as more conventional brands like Falke. AN EVER EXPANDING RANGE Having made a discrete debut around five years ago with a few knit specialists. Taubert has noticed that the demand has evolved. Other firms also share the view that organic cotton is only in its teething stages. “We’d need to be in a position to order vast quantities of thread to obtain a reasonable price. organic cotton has gained ground. Having said that. The range would no doubt be more convincing if it featured ecological dyes.” explains Isabelle Clochette. its deodorizing and antibacterial properties and breathability.” sums up Thomas Siemensmeyer. A number of therapeutic virtues are also attributed to the fibre. using conventional dying techniques or simple washes”. however. Produced exclusively in China. A pioneer in the organic cotton domain. and launches new blends with polyamide or polyester to optimize stability. I don’t think the market is sufficiently mature yet to absorb mile after mile of organic cotton. however the company believes that this would lead to price issues. With its Dream Respect collection. the product. “Above all. enabling it to shake off its reputation as overpriced.
such as bamboo fibre or carbon. COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 25 . Willy Hermann. THE IMPORTANCE OF RECYCLING While some companies still see so-called ecological materials.CASE STUDY N° 17 POLYMERS: A POPULAR CHOICE Recent research has allowed for the development of new fibres using exclusively ecological and renewable materials. Sales Director at Satab. light. taffeta. Biophyl™ takes three times less energy to produce than a polyamide. its properties have since been enhanced. Ecologically sound. the undeniable physical qualities of the following three fibres have earned them a high profile and veritable success for a number of months. as an alternative to sustainable development (DJIC Ltd. Accessories and trim suppliers do not intend to be left on the sidelines. Industry sectors are becoming increasingly organized and various recycled polyesters and polyamides.” explains Jean Candela. currently produced by Asian companies in particular. were present in several summer 2009 collections. Having found it impossible to achieve a sufficiently strong and highquality recycled cotton. while Charming Fabrics is focusing its attention on a double circular knit in recycled polyester only. easycare and UV-resistant. grosgrain. Quality is as regular as our conventional ribbons and they boast the same characteristics and the same compliance with standards. etc. stretchy and strong. “Priced at only a fraction more. Forster Rohner is launching an Eco Chic line which also uses a recycled polyester yarn. and above all. which is transformed into a technical polymer. We do not add any non-recycled auxiliary materials and energy consumption is fully optimized. Developed in France under the name Greenfil®. Its production generates 60% less greenhouse gasses. SATAB is launching a full range using recycled polyester for the first time: satin ribbons. Biofront®: manufactured by Teijin Fibers Limited. Soft and comfortable. Biophyl™ is definitely one of the ecological fibres of the future. Fresh. Launched in 2006.).Rilsan®PA 11 is produced from the oil. this polylactic acid (PLA) is a polymer derived from corn starch. they are perfectly abrasion-resistant. Piave Maitex offers a number of versions using recycled nylon and polyester. It now offers ten times more resistance to heat and solvents than a conventional PLA. Rilsan®PA 11: the only polyamide with a production process based on an ecological and renewable material . Producing Biofront® has no impact on the balance of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere. Articles created using Biophyl™ can be dyed at lower temperatures than conventional polyesters. Muelhmeier. keeping an eye on evolutions in the domain of recycled materials is a wiser choice. bacteriostatic and heat-regulating. this step towards saving the planet appeals to clients. which offers organic cotton in a fine 50-gauge. has just added two new “partially” recycled cotton products.castor beans . twill weaves. Also committed to an ecologically-responsible policy for the last year. Cheynet. yarns using Rilsan®PA 11 offer excellent dimensional stability. Biofront® even claims to be as durable as a PET. The ecological properties but also. these ribbons are created using polyesters derived from plastic that has already been used and recycled. Willy Hermann has chosen to blend a conventional cotton with 20% recycled cotton and judging by the warm welcome received by these two new knits. Biophyl™: is obtained from corn sugar.
com INTERFILIÈRE Sales Manager Charlotte Giraudineau Sales Nadia Messaoudi Sales Assistant Cécile Gueye Forum Managers Paola Visconti Sophie Morin Communication Manager Angèle Sitbon Press Contact Elisabeth DELAIGLE 67 Rue Fondary 75015 PARIS Tél : (33) 01 45 78 11 74 E-mail : elisabeth.COM P ORTE DE VERSAIL LES ERE.interfiliere.fr ACCESS TO PHOTOS www.INTERFILIERE.interfiliere.073 M2 > NUMBER OF EXHIBITORS: 160 > ENTRY PRICE: €30 ON-SITE > FASHION PASS.fr http : www. FOR ACCESS TO ALL THE TRADE SHOWS: €65 ON-SITE ÉTÉ 2011 JANUARY 2010 VIPA R IS SUMMER 2011 COLLECTIONS S A IL LE S I L I O N 3 .com Login : interfiliere Password : ifl2010 ./25 20103 / 2 4 / 2 5 2 POINTS OF REFERENCE > TOTAL FLOOR AREA: 9.01 47 56 32 99 E-mail : ifl@eurovet.COM Chairwoman of the Board Marie-Laure Bellon-Homps Director of the Lingerie Division Valérie Lemant Trade show organized by Eurovet 37-39 rue de Neuilly BP 121 .delaigle@wanadoo.V I P A R I S PAV WWW.01 47 56 32 32 Fax -33.92582 Clichy Tél -33.
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