m

 

In a world where irresponsible use of chemical products is causing irreparable damage to the
environment, use of eco friendly fibers is an initiative with a vision to bring about a drastic
reduction in global consumption of harmful non-biodegradable products. Due to the threat of
global warming we should use eco ways to live life. Indian Culture is inherently based on
protection of the source that sustains our life and in turn becomes larger than life.

It is simple practices of everyday life that makes India an effectively eco friendly nation.
Environmentally friendly (also eco-friendly, nature friendly, and green) are synonyms used to
refer to goods and services, laws, guidelines and policies considered to ...inflict minimal or no
harm on the environment. For good environment health people should engage in eco friendly
activities and should begin to look into more eco friendly ways of living and doing business.

Eco-friendly fibres generally have the following characteristics:

› 6inimum use of chemicals and pesticides

› Mest land management practices
› dustainable farming practices
 › Eco-friendly certification (i.e. EU-Eco label certification)
› nimal friendly
› {roduction adheres to fair trade practices.

ll natural fibers are not eco-friendly. If there is extensive application of harmful pesticides or
insecticides while cultivating. lso the textile chemicals applied during the finishing and other
processes of textile production goes to kill the eco friendly character of these fibers. However, if
it's an organic cultivation without any pesticides etc. and if they are processed with mechanical
or other ways without any chemicals then only a fabric can be termed as eco-friendly. The same
is true for animal fibers like wool where pesticides are used in sheep dips and harmful drugs are
given to cure animal diseases but then organic wool is there which is also an eco-friendly fiber.

s far as manmade fibers are concerned they too can be eco friendly. These are regenerated
fibers. They are of two types - having protein origin and having cellulose origin. {rotein origin
regenerated fibers are obtained from plant protein like corn, soy, peanut etc. or from animal
protein like casein from milk. Regenerated fibers of cellulose origin are derived from cellulose of
wood pulp or leaves such as rayon fiber. If manufactured in environmental friendly way, they
can be very well put into the category of eco friendly fibers.

One of the eco-friendly fibres µExcel¶ developed by the µMirla Cellulose¶ is a new generation of
man-made cellulosic eco-friendly fibre. This fibre is being very popular now days.

EXCEL m
ER:

Nature is the genesis of all that surrounds us and nature is the source of Mirla Cellulose. The logo
of the brand is:
Mirla Excel is the latest 6anmade Cellulose Fiber from Mirla Cellulose of the ditya Mirla
Group. Mirla Excel is made from the choicest selection of wood pulp, a natural and renewable
resource. Mirla Excel is the third generation of man-made cellulosic fibre.

It is designed to satisfy the need for a product that provides the comfort and luxury of a natural
fibre, with the engineered finish of a man-made fibre. It is the only known standalone fibre,
which is natural, ecofriendly, with high strength, high absorbency, excellent feel and a brilliant
luster. Mirla Excel exhibits high strength and wet modulus that can withstand rigorous
processing. Fashion designers and consumers swear on Mirla Excel garments for its wonderful
lustre, fluid drape and luscious hand. Mirla Excel is skin friendly and permeates moisture to keep
the wearer cool and fresh always.

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Mirla Excel has by far the best strength amongst fibres with a natural cellulose origin. This is
translated to yarns and fabrics of higher durability. The fabrics of Mirla Excel endear better to
resin treatment without much drop in strength.

    



  M
  
  







  > 37 24 - 26 21 - 35 46 - 54



   12 - 15 19 - 21 7-9 22 - 24


  !" "
  82 - 84 50 - 52 108 - 112 100


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The moisture regain of Mirla Excel is 13% and it transports moisture effectively. Garments and
made-up with Mirla Excel therefore have a high degree of comfort and is pleasing to touch.


 $%"

Mirla Excel is high in purity and is a preferred choice for next to skin applications.The fiber cross
section is compact and rod like with a smooth surface. Coupled with the high water absorbency
and transportation, the fiber is a natural choice for a baby¶s skin.



&  !'

Mirla Excel imparts excellent colour depth and lustre to fabrics, garments and made-ups which
remain true, even after repeated washing. This is due to the highly uniform morphological
structure of Mirla Excel. The fabric appearance is luxurious as silk and the colour palate gets
enhanced with Mirla Excel.

‡  % %
((

Mirla Excel has an inherent dry surface structure made up of multiple micro fibrils.The fibrils can
be effectively made to generate micro hair like features over the fabric surface, similar to the
human skin. This soft, velvet like finish is optional to the fabric designer and when leveraged,
helps in a unique look, feel and moisture management.

‡ )!'%%"

Mirla Excel yarns are compact by nature and it¶s fabrics exhibit a unique behavior post wet
processing. The fabrics shrink in a lateral manner in water and thereafter on drying create spaces
between yarns. This enables the yarns to move relative to each other thereby imparting fabric
fluidity and drape, possible only with this fibre. Fabricators usually have a wider set ot the greige
fabric stage to leverage this unique property to enhance fluidity.

‡ !*  "

The compact fibre orientation and low elongation of Mirla Excel make fabric remain stable both
for shrinkage and elongation. The wet to dry tenacity ratio of Mirla Excel is 82-84% which
facilitates higher wet stability of this marvelous cellulose fibre with a controlled swelling both
longitudinal and lateral.

‡%

Mirla Excel fabrics have a high degree of resistance to deterioration usually noticed with strong
detergent during washing cycles. The high strength, unique cross section and structure make
Mirla Excel fabrics to appear fresh even after repeated washes. Freshness forever.


+ 


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*(

The classical man-made cellulosic fibre production processes are based on the derivation of
cellulose using carbon disulphide or its solution in cupra-ammonium. Carbon disulphide poses
problem for the fibre production and environment, so that finding out an alternative to viscose
process, which will be free from all sorts of pollution and economic road-blocks. Excel has been
the first outcome of these efforts.

 

Cellulose is available in virtually unlimited quantities as renewable, biologically degradable

neutral raw materials. It is extracted from a vast variety of woods and also annual plants. The
N66O process imposes the requirements on the properties of cellulose, which are also standard
for other fibre producing process. The chemicals pulp obtained from the various cellulose
carriers in accordance with different pulping processes differ more or less from each other in
terms of their properties. ccording to available experience this is not decisively important for
the Lyocell process.

## ,

Up until a few years ago, it was not possible to obtain N66O in the quantities required for the
industry since no alternative industrial application was known until then. Tertiary aminoxides
were used as a solvent for N66O process. The use of 2-(N, N-dimethylamino-ethoxy) ethanol-
N-oxide is also possible in addition to the N-6ethyl-6orpholine-N-oxide used in practice.

L(C4H6)NCH3ĺ (C4H8)NOCH3+H2O

N- 6ethyl 6orpholine N-6ethyl-6orpholine-N-oxide

 %  

The N66O {rocess facilitates the production of the man-made cellulosic fibres, which is free
from environmental pollution substances.

The N66O process presents following advantages :

› Reduction in number of processing stages.

› lmost complete solvent recovery.
› Fibre properties, which cannot be obtained using classical processes.


 % *    

Ternary solutions of cellulose, N66O and water can be formed at elevated temperatures.
Typical extrudable compositions at 90-120oC would be 10-20% cellulose, 5-12% water and 75-
80% N66O. The cellulose is not yet soluble in this and water is therefore removed from this
suspension along the extraction line. When the hatched N66O/Chemical {ulp/Water state is
reached, complete solution is achieved and is stabilized by suitable chemical. 6olecular weight
of the cellulose has a major effect in determining the precise composition selected. Dry jet/wet
spinning is a preferred spinning route, since the elevated temperature aqueous spinning route,
since the elevated temperature of the polymer solution is incompatible with lower temperature
aqueous spinning baths. 6oreover, the temperature/viscosity characteristics of the dopes are
ideally suited to sustaining elongational strains in a cooling regime. The lower temperature
equilibrium behaviour of these solutions is as expected dominated by the presence of the
crystallisable major component ±N66O.

Fibre forming process :

The solutions are worked through a suitable nozzle at a range of temperatures just over 100oC,
the viscosity is determined and pressure is being taken into account. The cellulose is regenerated
after passing through an air gap into spinning bath, the concentration of which lies outside the
solution range. The fibre is drawn off with appropriate sretching, followed by washing, drying
and winding of this regenerated fibre. In case of Excel fibres, spinning speeds are markedly
higher than the speed used in viscose or cupro process.

Recovery the solvent :

The baths are filtered, cleaned, upgraded and then fed back into the process. The proportion of
used N66O recovered in practice is over 99.5%. The cellulose dissolves at 90-120oC under
normal pressure to form stable concentrated solution having a pseudo plastic behaviour. The
solution is then filtered and extracted to form filaments.

 technological evaluation shows that cellulose dissolution in N66O is much simpler than in
the viscose process. The viscose process has a significantly larger process with complex
chemistry involving several hazardous materials. The N66O process is a physical dissolution
process only and here no chemical reaction takes place. Total time for N66O process is less
than two hours, while the production cycle for viscose process extends beyond 30 hours. dince
mercerization, xanthation and ripening are not required for N66O process, the production cycle
is very short.

- !





› The fibre has a number of advantages over existing cellulosic fibers. 6ost important, the
process used is environmental friendly. Total recycling of solvents leads to a minimum
level of non-hazardous waste products. The fibres have high strength, especially when
wet, and fabric shrinkage is low. Excel when blended with other fibres and fabrics have
high tear and tensile strength. The fibre is also shown to be suitable for hydraulic
entanglement and thermally bonded on-wovens.

› Excel combines the advantage of both natural and synthetic fibres. It retains all the
natural properties of cellulosic with good moisture and biodegradability with colouration
characteristics similar to rayon and at molecular level it is similar to cotton. Excel has the
softness of silk, the strength of polyester and the absorbency of cotton and the strong
tendency of the fibre to fibrillate opens a number of possibilities for the finisher to
modify the textiles surfaces.

› Excel can undergo the severe denim process and further finishing. With Excel, the
traditional denim look can be obtained combined with a special feeling of comfort. Excel
can be used for the production of soft denim. When blended with cotton, Excel adds
comfort, ease and strength without detracting from the cool assured character of denim.
› dubjective assessments using test subjects have shown that next-to-the-skin garments
made from Excel such as T-shirts or shirts are comfortably with cotton, excel offers less
resistance to thermal transmission and has higher vapour permeability, thus providing
scientific evidence to support the subjective sensation of coolness.

› Excel fibres blend well with other natural or synthetic fibres such as cotton, linen,
polyester, lycra or wool, adding drape, comfort and performance. It can also be mixed
with other cellulosics such as viscose rayon. The versatility of this fibre produces
excellent fabrics for men¶s and women¶s casual and tailored wear, as well as lingerie in
woven and knitwear.

› The wear properties of fabric made from Lyocell are extremely pleasant. Finishing
processes can impart wool or silk-like property. The crease recovery angle is also
significantly better for fabrics woven from Lyocell than with those from cotton and
viscose staple fibres. Mrilliant, rich shades can be achieved on Lyocell fabrics by direct
dyeing and savings over comparable cotton fabrics are possible thanks to the better
utilisatioin of the dye. This ecological and economical advantage, which results in lower
wastewater pollution, also applied to the finishing agents.

› Fabrics made from Excel are reported to have feel. It can be spun using all chemicals
used for cellulosic fibres and can be mixed with other fibres. It has high strength, with
only 15% loss of strength in the wet state. Excel has a round cross-section and a good
open fibre appearance, which provides case of subsequent processing.

› It satisfies a wide range of fabric needs from fine fashion ladies lightweight blouse and
dresswear through moderately heavy skirting and suiting. Its versatility also extends
active leisurewear through performance fabrics, denims, work wear and industrial
apparel. Excel produces more luxurious drape effect than cotton. Either alone or in blends
with other fibres it provides a variety of handling effects, allowing fabric finisher to
demonstrate their skills. Like viscose, Excel has a very efficient dye uptake and provide
natural, bright and vibrant colours. It has a dyeing compatibility with other generated
 cellulosic fabrics. The fabrics made from Excel can be dyed with direct, reactive and vat
dyes.

› Excel has been used for making nonwoven fabric by later bonding, thermal bonding and
hydro entangling.

In the present day, there is a rummage around for the production and use of so called, µeco-
friendly¶ fibres and products. Mut in this run after, to use eco-friendly cellulosic fibre we cannot
just neglect the significant assets of other fibres which are considered as not so eco-friendly.
There are few such fibres which have extraordinarily valuable properties that cannot be
overlooked. In this study, the researcher will try to study and explore the uses of the blend of an
eco-friendly natural fibre with nylon.

¦ LO¦:

Nylon 6,6 is made of hexamethylenediamine and adipic acid, which give nylon 6,6 a total of 12
carbon atoms, and its name.Nylon 66 is a semi-crystalline engineering thermoplastic with
universal applications. In simple words, it is a man-made fibre produced by condensation
polymerization.
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The federal Trade Commission¶s definition for Nylon fiber.  manufactured fiber in which the
fiber forming substance is a long-chain synthetic polyamide in which less than 85% of the
amide-linkage are attached directly (-CO-NH-) to two aliphatic groups.  synthetic
thermoplastic fiber (Nylon melts/glazes easily at relatively low temperatures)Round, smooth and
shiny filament fibers. Cross sections can be either (1) trilobal ± to imitate silk or (2) multilobal ±
to increase staple like appearance and hand. Its most widely used structures are multifilament,
monofilament, staple or tow and is available as partially drawn or as finished filaments.Regular
nylon has a round cross section and is perfectly uniform. The filaments are generally completely
transparent unless they have been delustured or solution dyed. Thus, they are microscopically
recognized as glass rods. 6olecular chains of nylon are long and straight variations but have no
side chains or linkages. Cold drawing (step 18 on the model) can align the chains so they are
oriented with the lengthwise direction and are highly crystalline. Nylon is related chemically to
the protein fibers silk and wool. They both have similar dye sites but nylon has many fewer dye
sites than wool.

+ 
  
!  

The first approach: combining molecules with an acid (COOH) group on each end are reacted
with two chemicals that contain amine (NH2) groups on each end. This process creates nylon 6,6,
made of hexamethylene diamine with six carbon atoms and adipic acid.

The second approach: a compound has an acid at one end and an amine at the other and is
polymerized to form a chain with repeating units of (-NH-[CH2]n-CO-)x. In other words, nylon 6
is made from a single six-carbon substance called caprolactam. In this equation, if n=5,
then nylon 6 is the assigned name (may also be referred to as polymer).


 - 



 


 ./. !


› {leats and creases can be heat-set at higher temperatures
› 6ore compact molecular structure
› Metter weathering properties; better sunlight resistance
› dofter "Hand"
› Higher melting point (256 °C / 492.8 °F)
› duperior colorfastness
› Excellent abrasion resistance
› It has good sliding properties
› Resistant to many oils, greases, diesel, petrol, cleaning fluids
› Rigid
› Electrically insulating
› Easily machined
› High tensile strength (stretchable without deformation)
› Excellent chemical resistance
› High mechanical strength and heat resistance
› Easy to process
› Can be dyed easily 

On the other hand, nylon 6 is easy to dye, more readily fades; it has a higher impact resistance, a
more rapid moisture absorption, greater elasticity and elastic recovery.

£ 



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›  The most outstanding property of nylon is its strength and elasticity. The
tenacity varies from 8.8-4.3 gpd while corresponding elongation at break varies from 18-
45%. The wet strength of nylon is 80-90% of its dry strength and the elongation at break
increases by 5-30% on wetting.
› !" 1.14g/cc

›

 ,"When nylon yarn is stretched 1,2 and 4% with a load of 0.25 gpd for
30 seconds and then released the recovery after 60 seconds is 38, 63 and 73%
respectively.

› # 
 Nylon has a moisture regain of about 4% at 65% RH and 70 deg F.

›   (   Like other fibres, nylon undergoes degradation and weakens when
exposed to lights.

› ''Nylon is dull and semi opaque before cold drawing, but on orientation its
lustre is greatly incresed. Delustering is done by adding TiO2 in the polymerisation
mixture.

›   ( Nylon melts at 262 deg C in an atmosphere of Nitrogen and at 250 deg
C in air. When a very hot iron is used for ironing nylon garments, sticking or even fusion
may take place. Therefore ironing should not be done above 180 deg C. {ermanent set
may be applied to Nylon by heat setting with 25 psi pressure with saturated steam. The
pleats thus set remian on wearing and washing even in hot water. 

› * 'Nylon is extremely stable chemically. For example dry cleaning
solvents, alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, ethers, hydrocarbons, chlorinated hydrocarbons,
soaps and synthetic detergents and water including sea water do not affect Nylon.
lso it has got a remarkable stability towards alkali.

› M   'Nylon is not a nutrient for 6ildew or bacteria and is not eaten up
by moth larvae. Mut they bite their way up when imprisoned in nylon cloth. It is harmless
to human skin.
Properties Nylon 6,6

Physical properties

Shape Shape is controlled by manufacturer, filament are

uniform , length and diameter are determine by the
manufacturer

Lustre Controlled from bright to dull

Strength Dry :- 4.3 - 9.0 g/d

Wet :- 4.0 ʹ 7.6g/d

Elastic recovery 100 % recovery at 4% extension

Elongation Varies by type , 90 ʹ 40%

Resiliency Good

Density 1.14 g/cm cube

Moisture absorption 3.8 - 4.5 %

Dimensional stability Excellent

Chemical properties

Acid All nylon have poor resistant to acid.

Alkali Good resistant

Sunlight Generally destructive unless specially finished.


LE¦
m¦:

Fabric Mlends are one which is made up of two or more different types of fibres twisted or spun
together. Mlending adds to the quality of the final product.

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Mlending is performed mainly in order to -


› give the required characteristics to the end product (e.g. blending of man-made fibers
with natural fibers produces the desired easy-care characteristics);

› compensate for variations in the characteristics of the raw materials (even cotton of a
single origin exhibits variability and must be blended);

› hold down raw material costs (blending-in of raw material at low price level);

› influence favorably the behavior of the material during processing (improve the running
characteristics of short staple material by admixture of carrier fibers); and

› achieve effects by varying color, fiber characteristics and so on.


 + M
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› metering, determination, and precise establishment of the quantities of the individual
components;

› mixing, i.e. bringing together the metered quantities;

› intermingling, i.e. distributing the components evenly in the body of fibers. Each stage is
as important as the other. However, difficulties arise primarily in intermingling and in
maintaining the blend once it has been achieved. The latter is very difficult with fibers of
different surface structure and varying energy absorbing capacity on stretching, because
de-blending tends to occur at various processing stages.




 -  
M
! 


  

Mlending can be carried out at various process stages, by using various methods, equipments,
machines and intermediate products. The following can be distinguished;

M
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Male mixing before the blowroom

Flock blending within the blowroom

Lap blending (by using scutchers)

Web blending at the ribbon-lap machine or the blending drawframe

dilver blending at the drawframe, the silver lap machine (or the comber)

Fiber blending at the card or the OE spinning machine

Roving blending at the ring spinning machine












¦m mCRO
mLEXmLES:


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6icrobial infestation poses danger to both living and non living matters. Obnoxious smell form
the inner garments such as socks, spread of diseases, staining and degradation of textiles are
some of the detrimental effects of bad microbes. Though the use of antimicrobials have been
known for the decades, it is only in the recent couple of years several attempts have been made
on finishing textiles with antimicrobial compounds. The consumers are now increasingly aware
of the hygienic life style and there is a necessity and expectation for a wide range of textile
products finished with antimicrobial properties. Due to the close contact between skin and
textiles after only short wearing times they are crowded by microorganism. dditionally the
environment conditions on textiles are similarly favourable as on the skin and thus support the
bacteria growth.

+ 

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6icrobes are microscopic organisms that cannot be seen by the naked eye, only by using a
microscope. Other names for microbes are microorganisms and, when related to infection or
diseases, "germs" and "bugs".

 minute life form; a microorganism, especially a bacterium that causes disease. 6icrobes are
the oldest form of life on earth. dome types have existed for billions of years. They may live as
individuals or live together in communities. Germs are behind every fever, runny nose, ache pain
and symptoms of every cold and flu we have ever had. They include a variety of micro-
organisms like Macteria, Fungi, lgae and viruses.

6ain Groups Of 6icroorganisms

There exists a great diversity and complexity among the microorganisms. We shall consider the
salient features of the main six groups of microorganisms
(i)Macteria
(ii)ctinomycetes
(iii){rotozoa
(iv)lgae
(v)Fungi
(vi)Viruses

lthough, there are many diseases caused by different microorganisms but the major skin
diseases are primarily caused by some species of and (.

M

Macteria are microscopic organisms whose single cells have neither a membrane-enclosed
nucleus nor other membrane-enclosed organelles like mitochondria and chloroplasts. They are
shaped like short rods, spheres or spirals. Macteria are self- sufficient ± they do not need a host to
reproduce and they multiply by subdivision. mong the earliest forms of life on earth, bacteria
have evolved to thrive in a variety of environments. Not all bacteria are harmful. In fact, less
than 1% causes diseases. Mut when infectious bacteria enter our body, they rapidly reproduce and
many produce toxins which are powerful chemicals that damage specific cells in the tissues they
have invaded. This is what causes illness.

Classification of bacteria:

Macteria can be divided into two groups on the basis of staining with Gram stain. The
*
 is named after the 19th century Danish bacteriologist who developed it.

› The bacterial cells are first stained with a purple dye called crystal violet.
› Then the preparation is treated with alcohol or acetone.
› This washes the stain out of
* , cells.
› To see them now requires the use of a counterstain of a different color (e.g., the pink of
safranin).
 › Macteria that are not decolorized by the alcohol/acetone wash are
* ' ,.

Gram-positive bacteria are encased in a plasma membrane covered with a thick wall
of peptidoglycan. Gram-negative bacteria are encased in a triple-layer. The outermost layer
contains lipopolysaccharide

dtaphylococcus ±

dtaphylococci (µstaph¶) are a common type of bacteria that live on the skin and mucous
membranes (eg. in nose) of humans. dtaphylococcus aureus (d. aureus) is the most important of
these bacteria in human diseases. Other staphylococci, including d. epidermidis, are considered
commensals, or normal inhabitants of the skin surface.

Figure:- S
bacteriamagnified about 20,000x

·lebsiella ±

·lebsiella pneumoniae is a Gram-negative, non- motile, encapsulated, lactose fermenting,

facultative anaerobic, rod shaped bacterium found in the normal flora of the mouth, skin, and
intestines. It is clinically the most important member of the ·

 genus
of Enterobacteriaceae.

Figure:- ·lebsiella pneumonia bacteria

2ungus :

2ungus are microscopic plant organisms that consist of cells such as mould, mildews and yeast. They
cannot produce their own food thus they behave as either parasites or saprophytes absorbing nutrients
from organic matter such as humans and animals.

Essentially fungi are infectious. More commonly known as moulds and yeasts, fungi are found in nature
and they appear in the environment (Geophillic). On humans (Anthropophlic) and on animals (Zoophilic).

Moulds have singular hyphae (a threadlike part of the vegetative portion of a fungus) and produce
velvety cotton- looking colonies.

The skin yeast infection are all commonly caused by candida albicans and candida tropicalis which are
the two of the most common yeast infection fungi that affect the human body.

Yeasts consist of a single cell and they reproduce by budding, producing soft pasty-looking colonies. An
examples of yeast is the Candida species.
sually, our immune system keeps yeast under control.

Candida-

The common ͞yeast infection͟ is typically Candidiasis is caused by the yeast-like fungus Õ
  Õ

ʹ Candida is the scientific name for yeast. It is a yeast that occurs naturally in the human body.
Normally it lives in harmony with a variety of other microorganisms and actually performs a
couple important functions. The problem occurs when something upsets the balance of bacteria
in the body and this allows the yeast organism to proliferate and take over all the healthy
microorganisms.

It normally resides in the intestinal tract, mouth, throat and genitals, however it can burrow holes
in the intestinal tract, enter the blood stream and then make its way into any organ of the body.
To make matters worse it emits over 70 different toxins into the body. dome people may even
become allergic to the yeast itself.

Once this hardy organism proliferates in the body, it wrecks havoc in many ways and is the
initiator of many common maladies, conditions, syndromes and illnesses in our population.