This section contains information on frame modifications and care. Please select a topic below.

Assembling a spare tire added: Dec 29, Renewing a Clutch Cable added: Jan 13, Renewing Brakes - added: Feb 18, 2002 updated: Feb 22, Splitting the @!&# Rims! added: Feb 25, Renewing Gear Selector Cables added: July 4, Front End Work - added: Sep 18, 2003

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Spare Tire Assembly
This project was attempted purely for the sake of having a spare tire. It turned out to be an amazingly simple task, despite the wait times for parts. This article will also help people who are stuck with flat tires and are looking to replace them. For this project you will need only a few tools and little bit of patience. The hardest part of this project will be researching what tires to use. I chose IRC MB520's -- my brother chose Continental Zippy 1's. Mad props go to mobboss on Scooterbbs for the help with the tricks of the trade! Tools & Parts Needed 10" Split Rim Set Inner Tube 3.50" X 10.00" tire (your choice) 8mm metric nuts (as many as you like, you NEED 7 though) Ratchet Set (Torque wrench reccomended) Hand or Foot Pump Procedure

Step 1 Here is a quick look at some of the tools needed to start this project. The pump is not shown. A small hand pump from a bike shop will be fine, just have a gas station nearby to finish the job.

Step 2 Unroll the inner tube and make sure that the filler tube is crooked like the one in the photo. If it is straight, purchase the correct tube.

Step 3 Take the pump and fill the inner tire until it is expanded around the whole tube. This will aid in seating the tube inside the tire shell.

Step 4 Push the inner tube into the shell and align the filler tube with a mark that exists on both sides to the tire. This will make it easier to align the split rims later.

Step 5 Set the rim into the tire noting that the filler tube points toward the opposite side as shown. Align the filler hole in the rim with the mark you found earlier.

Step 6 Here you can see the alignment marks I used. The filler tube and hole in the rim are aligned to a small divot on the tire. As you can see, it exists on both sides of the wheel. This is important because you have to align the screw holes later in the assembly.

If the bead is even. The bead. Step 9 Now fill the tire extremely slowly to 45 PSI and no more. the line around the tire should be evenly spaced from the rim at all points. start again. You may have to use the blunt edge of a butter knife to push the tube away from the seam. you have to start tightening the nuts. Once you have it to this point. Step 8 Tighten the rim using a torque wrench and extension. If it isn't even.Step 7 Now madly squash the rim together and get a bolt on each of the studs. It's not overly important that the filler tube neck is seated properly. Also tighten alternating screws to make the inner tube compress evenly. decrease the pressure to 30 PSI and mount it to the spare tire holder on the battery side of the bike using two more 8mm nuts. Tighten the nuts to the same specification as the cylinder head. .

I thought. It took me about 1 hour to complete for the first time. it might take 10 minutes. This is a mesy job :)) At Least one Pair of Visegrips (two helps) Procedure Step 1 Start by unscrewing the solderless nipple. follow the guide on scooterhelp. Once it is 7mm box wrench or spanner 8mm box wrench or spanner Philips Head Screwdriver Q-Tips Rubber Gloves (personal preference. .Clutch Cable Renewal This project was inspired by my Vespa's adorable spite. This cable was broken. I think if I did it again. When I took off friday afternoon (to a scooter meeting nonetheless) my clutch was limp and the handlebar would not spring back. use a pair of visegrips to stabilize the nipple body and use a bit of WD40 to free the nut. "maybe the little nipple came off the cable". Tools & Parts Needed Bearing & Chassis Grease Inner Cable (I used a tandem bicycle rear deraileur cable and had plenty of room) If you need to purchase a new outer. I then yarded on it with a pair of visegrips and about 4 of the cables came out onto my lap. Here is a step by step method for renewing your clutch cable. if it is really tight. remove it completely from the cable and store it in a safe place. indeed. but the cable nipple was still firmly attached.

I have been told cables have a life of about 6 months in everyday riding.Step 2 Unsrew the Philips head screw in the handlebar assembly to free the lever from the bars (watch for washers). I won't have this happen again. given the amount of grease I used. renew the outer cable as well. Push it bit by bit. Once it is free. pull the cable until it is completely out of the outer tube. There should be no snags. but it is probably inevitable. Step 4 Here is a shot of some of the materials used in the job. . Insert the new cable down the same hole the old one came out of. Step 3 Here is a picture of where my cable snapped. Grease the new cable down its entire length with large amounts of bearing grease (do it with gloves). If there are snags in the cable. A big tub of bearing & chassis grease costs 5 bucks and will save big headaches in the future. Remember to always lubricate the cables. Hopefully.

If it catwalks (does a wheelie). Get on the bike and start it -. clamp the visegrips onto the cable so they rest on the slack adjuster. this will take up all the slack in the inner cable. Loop the cable through the clucth arm and replace the nipple from earlier. once it seems tight. you are . this will hold it tight while you fit the finnicky nipple. Step 6 Now yard on the end of the cable and pull until it seems tight. Don't cut the cable yet. There is a fair bit of play in the clutch.Step 5 The inner cable will fall out of the other side. To do this turn the slack adjuster out (tighten it as shown) about half way. using another set of visegrips to stabilize the thing. Put her into first (you may want a helmet). Tun the Slack Adjuster until it is all the way in. push the nipple right up against the clutch arm and tighten neutral of course. If it stalls after shifting into first. so pulling it forward a bit should be okay. you have to tighten the slack adjuster. Step 7 Now you will have to adjust the clutch.

Keep tightening the adjuster until the bike runs smoothly after shifting into fact I advise against it unless you have other issues with your bike. however. The metal used for the the cable was stainless steel. it does in fact strengthen the retaining force of the pin. cut the cable 3 inches or so from the nipple.5 meter cable (about 8. The front brake should be a breeze as long as you have a centerstand. You should now be accomplished in the Tao of clutch cables. I have a few tips. I was in a pinch. Put one under the floorboards between the sidestand and the rear brake pedal and the other under the tail. so make sure the bike is jacked off the ground and is stable enough to torque the large retaining nuts on the hub. this tutorial is identical for both front and rear brakes. but you do not need to remove the engine or wheel to perform this operation -. Though it seems counter-intuitive to install a cotter pin this way. your job is now more difficult. The wheel was removed for clarity sake. You should set aside a few hours for your first atttempt. in case they are inferior. I would reccommend using the real Vespa cables if not only for the guarantee of operation. Tools & Parts Needed Brake Shoe Set 2 Brake Shoe Retaining Clips Wire Brush 22mm Socket Ratchet Set (Torque wrench reccomended) Shop Towels Mallet or Impact Wrench . The procedure of renewing your brakes is pretty simple. When you have finished calibrating the tension. since it will tip easily when it is on milkcrates. If you have a sidestand. This process will involve completely removing a wheel from your bike. I performed this procedure on an engine that had been dropped out of the body. Some extra notes: I used a 2. Place a milk carton under your bike's tail. A few ideas for those of you who do not have a means of lifting the bike off the ground. I will let everyone know when the tandem cable breaks. You will need two milkcrates for a a sidestand bike. Happy Scootering! Rear Brake Shoe Renewal For those of you with crappy brakes.getting close. keeping it stable while you work on the brakes. and shim it until the rear wheel lifts off the ground. The centerstand should act as a pivot.2 feet) from a bicycle shop in my city. You will have to be careful with a sidestand bike.

It has grooves in the nut head to grab into a split pin. So begin by bending and removing the pin from its seat.Two Small Spanner wrenches (7mm and 8mm) Visegrips Needle Nose Pliers Small Split Pin (1/8" X 2") Pair of Latex Surgical Gloves Procedure Step 1 Start by prising off the hub dust cover. This kind of nut resists backing off as long as the cotter pin is installed.. .. Underneath the cover is a strange nut.. Step 2 This nut is called a "castellated nut"..

Take care that you pull the hub away as straight as possible. you don't want oil on anything to do with the brakes. if you have one like that. . Step 4 Assuming your bike hasn't fallen off the jacks and everything went well. put them aside (in a safe place where you can find them again). Step 5 Pull away the hub (and wheel) to reveal the brake compartment.Step 3 Now get the ratchet and 22mm Driver and take that castellated nut off the axle. Not so easy huh? My only advice on removing this pesky nut is to either use and impact wrench or grab a mallet and whack the end of the ratchet to shock it off. lucky you. you should end up with these two pieces in your hands. Sometimes the nut is easy to get off.

allowing you to remove the brakes and change them out. Another user recommended putting the blade of a screwdriver between the operating cam and the brake shoe and twisting. Step 7 Place two spanners under the pivot points and wrest the brake shoes off the pivots. This will allow you to start prying the brakes off the pivots.Step 6 Prise off both clips on the brake pivots. replace these with new ones every time you change the brakes. why not polish the backing plate with a wire brush? . Step 8 While you have the brakes off. The shoes and spring will collapse.

3-65.1 lbf ft) -.0 kgf m (54.Step 9 Put on the gloves and place the spring into the new set of brake shoes. Use a torque wrench and torque the nut to 7. Reinstall the brake shoes by clipping the shoes onto the operating cam and pushing them onto the pivots.translation: as tight as you can get it! . Place the plain washer around the axle and screw the castellated nut back onto the axle. Step 10 Reinstall the clips on the brakes and replace the cover.5-9.

Prop the bike in a stable position and remove the nuts and lock washers. Start by removing the tire from the bike. WD-40 and the like are pretty agressive on rubber surfaces and may damage or weaken the tire. Do NOT be tempted to use a solvent/lubricant like WD-40 on the rubber no matter how tough the job gets. The tire is retained by five nuts that are identifiable by their connection to the hub itself. Tools & Parts Needed Built-Up tire Two sticks of 3/4" X 1 1/2" X 18" wood (pine) Tire deflation tool usually on back of pressure gauges (or a screwdriver) 13mm Deep Socket Ratchet Procedure . Two people are pretty essential to getting this done right. Pull the tire away from the bike and follow the procedure to remove the tire.Splitting Tire Rims This is one of the more common questions in the scooter world: "How do I get my @#&! tires off the @#&! rims!?!?!" Here is a method tht I have used successfully on a set of rusty lambretta rims (It's the same for any Vespa or Lambretta Rim).

Your friend may have to help pull the rim upwards while you pry with the stick. The rim should pull away with a little effort and wiggling..Step 1 Deflate the tire completely and slowly back off every odd nut until they come off. Step 2 Put a piece of the wood into the rim opening and get a good amount of prying area with the block. pull out the inner tube and set it aside. Pull the rims apart as far as you can before you lose your breath. Retain all of the lockwashers and nuts on the rims. Then get the wood blocks and a friend to continue. Get a friend to put a piece of wood across the side of the bead and get them to stand on it. Step 3 Once you have one rim off.. Flip the tire and give it the same treatment. .

The box selects the current gear by pulling a rod back (you can see this rod in the cruciform replacement area) and forth through the transmission. If only one cable is broken. but the shifting is weird or not working. there are more details on this below). two pairs of Visegrips (one needlenose preferrably). . Setting the Cables One of the more tricky cable installations on a Vespa would have to be the gear selector cables. if the cables do not appear to be broken. very long time so this information should be helpful to most every Vespa owner. it is an integral part of the transmission and can break down just like any other moving part. however. carefully inspect the gearbox for damage (namely the selector arm as they may snap. You will need a 7 and an 8 mm spanner. you will be unable to select gears until the problem is fixed. There is a single screw at the bottom of the flywheel that hold the selector box cover onto the engine. Below I will outline some procedures for inspecting and setting the gear selector box. a set of cables and a friend to help. if this box fails.Gear Selector Box Work The Vespa gearbox has not changed in a very. Undo this screw and pull the cover aside to reveal the Selector Box Parts. Tighten the slack adjusters so they protrude into the selector box. I find it easier to just start fresh and do both cables while I'm at it. The Selector box rarely needs attention. I have found a fairly good way to approach this task.

undo the 4 screws on the bottom of the headset and lift it as much as you can without yanking on it. Once you're done taking up slack. To open the headset. Tighten the nipple using the wrenches. The nipple should slide into the batwing slot. Have a friend hold the handlebar so the dots line up. get your friend to move the handlebar up and down. Once one cable is out. Once it's firmly pressed into the slot. Go back down to the gearbox. Apply a peice of duct tape to the speedometer cable. To replace the cables on a P series you will have to open the headset. carefully prise them from their seating in the disc and pull the cable straight out. These cables are the gear selector cables and they run down to the gear box. Neutral can be identified as a raised area between 1st (closest to the engine) and 2nd on the batwing (the bike will roll smoothly when in neutral. get your friend to set it back to the two dots. Once both cables are seated in the disc. set the handlebar so the dots line up. clamp the needlenose visegrips onto the cable so that they continue to press into the back of the nipple. you should now be able to see the inside of the headset. Don't bother closing the headset yet. Pull the nipples clear of the box and set them aside. you can usually flip the headset back and work unimpeded. While they're tight. To renew these cables. Turn the batwing to neutral by hand while gently rolling the bike back and forth. push the speedometer cable (large cable right near the front wheel) toward the rear of the bike and the headset cover will pop straight up. The headset will still be retained by wires. Unscrew the locking ring and allow it to rest on the duct tape (that way it won't fall into the fork tube). you may choose to unhook all of the little wires. Do the same procedure for the other cable. replace it by feeding it down the same outer cable and then move onto the next. so they don't get out of order at the gearbox. . Grab both cables with a Visegrips and pull on them fairly hard. This will quickly take up all the slack in the cables. but if you know where everything goes. Begin by pushing the nipples onto the cables. There is a disc on the inside of the headset attached to the end of the gear selector handlebar. Get the needlenose visegrips and push the nose of the pliers up against the cable nipple as hard as possible while still pulling on the cable with the other set of Visegrips.Once you are into the gearbox begin by undoing the cable nipples using two small spanners. there should be two cables in this disc. just below the locking ring (the thing attached to the speedometer under the headset).

try to find some brass or aluminum wire and make multiple wraps around the selector arm and ratchet shaft as an emergency repair. you are at risk for this piece snapping off. You shouldn't have to use the slack adjusters. Once you have reamed the hole a small amount. sudden stress from the selector rod (usually from jumping out of gear) and bad casting. If it doesn't. it suddenly works. You may also need a reamer (taper tool) suitable to the size of the hole. If it stops. Once you finish. it takes about 15 minutes. If you notice this behaviour kill the engine and undo the 11mm bolts that hold the gearbox to the engine. Crank the selector arm far past the fourth gear position as in the diagram. Usually when you're about to give up. reassemble the headset by reversing the order of disassembly. keep adjusting the taper until it will allow the pin to fit . If you cannot get it in. Since this part is under a lot of stress it may be vulnerable to cracking off due to lack of gearbox oil. If you have a worn cruciform that jumps out of gear. gently pull the gearbox clear of the engine (there is a paper gasket between the selector box and the engine case). A key sign that this may be a problem is if the handlebar moves far past 1st gear without engaging a gear. The selector arm usually snaps at the ring around the ratchet shaft and it can only be repaired only by ordering a whole new part. If indeed the selector arm has broken and you are in the middle of no where. Start by removing the cabling and get the box into a well lit area. refit the pin and try to bang it in. with the pin removed. you will need a ballpeine hammer and a small punch suited to the size of the hole. request a selector arm and a new tapered pin.The cables should now be set. try the whole prodecure again until it is right. When ordering new parts. tap out the pin as per the top picture. Line up the holes and punch the new pin back into place as shown in the bottom be patient. It will fall out completely with only a small bit of force. you're done. On a wooden surface. use a small reamer to redefine the taper on the new part. adjust the position of the selector arm on the ratchet shaft and try again. Shift as little as possible and try to get safely home. Once you're good at this procedure. slowly pull up on the batwing and place the new ratchet arm on the shaft. If the bike makes it to first and fourth gear. Inspecting and repairing the Selector Arm The selector arm is a small cast piece of metal that forms the physical connection to the gear selector rod inside the engine. The acid test is to roll the bike back and forth about 1m each direction and try to change gears. The pin should go all the way in. At first it will take hours of cursing and hate . as the pin is likely to be difficult to refit.

The ratchet arm is held in by a small flat headed screw. forks.2. to problems as large as dropping the forks out. that is. if there is any wear to the batwing or ratchet shaft. Front End Work The following tutorial deals with most of the facets of the front end of the bike. the headset. To remedy this problem. front brakes and front suspension system. Uncrew the screw carefully and catch the spring if it goes flying. Ratchet System Troubleshooting The ratchet system should rarely need attention but problems can arise if the spring is deformed or the roller pops out of the ratchet arm. Most of it is easy and requires few tools. it's mostly about the order of disassembly that is important. The batwing is force fit to a shaft that is precisely positioned. front hub. Once you are done. replace both items. Replace any malfuntioning part and reverse the order of disassembly to fix the problem. Tools & Parts Needed Socket Set (7-22mm) Spanner Wrench set (7-22mm) Small Screwdriver for the Front Hub Nut Long Handled Screwdriver Set (#1. Drain and fill your gearbox and replace the gasket if neccessary. simply order new parts and replace the old ones. refit the selctor box and cabling (see above for instructions).snugly in the hole. you will have to remove the small tapered pin on the selector arm to effect repairs to this item. This guide will help with problems as small as getting into the headset.3 Philips and #2 flat head) Spark Plug Wrench Disposable Shop Towels Rubber Face Mallet A Metal Hammer A number of pairs of Visegrips Needlenose pliers A set of circlip pliers A Large Chisel (see below) Various bearing extractors and punches(if necessary) Bearing Grease (lithium grease) Some milk crates to set the bike on A strap wrench Procedure .

This will cause the headset to pop up.Remove the Ground lead from the battery to isolate the battery. store them somewhere safe. There is a good chance that the fuse will be blown after the procedure if you leave it connected. Unscrew the four headset top screws using a number 2 philips. . push the large speedometer cable near the wheel into the fork. With the retaining screws removed.

The headset cover should look like this once you have pushed on the cable. There will still be a bit of resistance because of the speedometer cable. Keep pushing the cable until you can get it pretty much wide open. .

Once the tape is in place. Instead of removing the wires from their terminals. This will make the switch pop right out of the cover. simply unscrew the ignition switch retainer nut. Now the headset cover will be held on by only electrical wiring. unscrew the speedometer cable nut by hand until it is no longer connected to the speedometer housing. this will help the nut that hold the speedometer cable to the speedometer housing stop from falling down the fork tube.Wrap a piece of duct tape around the metal skirt of the speedo cable. .

The headlight is fully accessible from here. The two pulleys hold the throttle and gear cables. if you wish to paint the headset cover.Here is a shot of the handlebars of the P200. the indicator light housings have small clasps on the side that you simply press inward to remove. speedometer and turn signal lights out of their housings to fully release the headset cover. . the speedometer is held in by a nut on the bottom and a metal reinforcing plate. Pull the highbeam.

In order to do that. so keep the old front brake outer cable so you can measure where to cut the new one. The front brake lever will go limp. so just pull on it like crazy until it comes out of the bolt. cable kits will not have an outer cable for this purpose. but they are very simple switches. you will have to disconnect the front brake cable. depending on how frayed the old cable is. as the pressure gets high enough. this will fairly easy. you must unscrew the 11mm nut on the brake linkage. Not all Vespas have these. Pictured here is the front brake switch. . place the nut and bolt somewhere safe. the cable is often very frayed and rusty. So all you need to do is unscrew the lever. next to the front hub. Most of the time. The switch is just a pressure plate. pull the lever and its washers away and then pull the inner cable clear of the bike. the switch connects the circuit. Use visegrips to pull the cable if it gets too hard to do by hand.If you intend to remove the forks.

. First we need to get the bike on blocks. get a 13 mm ratchet and unscrew the headset pinch bolt. then take the headset off. To do this. we are going to be dropping the forks and having a look at the hub and suspension section.From here on. Collect the square washer from the pinchbolt on the opposite side. Put a milk crate directly beneath the bike so it is stable.

.Now you can pull up on the headset and bend it towards the seat. all the cables are really elastic and will oblige. When reassembling the bike. Just make sure the electrical cables don't snag on anything.more instructions on this to follow below. Below that is the bearing race. the tightness of the bearing race will determine how well the forks operate. The top one is a lockwasher. It holds the bearing race tight. make sure to take up all the slack in the bearing. so just unscrew them as you would any other screw. Directly beneath the headset is a collection of strange looking nuts holding on the forks. it has a tooth that fits into the threads of the fork. so don't worry about breaking anything. remove them by using a large jaw set of visegrips or a bicycle "c" wrench. They are normal right hand threads. below the lockwasher is a normal spacer washer. but refrain from over tightening it -.

On older Vespas you have to remove the lower bearing race and dust guard -. make sure to take the small bearing on the top and the big roller bearing on the bottom off of the fork. .the part covered in white grease here -. Now undo the four screws that hold the mudguard onto the fork. On P200's the mudguard is very easy to remove.before you can get the mudguard off. just maneuver it around the fork stop and set it aside. while you pull the fork out of the frame. the forks will move up and down. You have to get a friend to pull the bike upwards.Here's where work gets too hard to photograph! :). They don't like being dirty. once the bearing race is removed.

if the shock isn't blown.. usually these are easiest removed with a sharp pair of wire cutters. undo the speed washers on the inside of the mudguard. to get the suspension off the bike undo these two nuts. The easiest way to diagnose a blown shock is that it will go "clack" when you pull up on the bars. ugly-ass reflectors off the bike. at this point you should send your mudguard to the paint shop if needs be. you can make the stock shocks look real purdy if you take the grey plastic thing off. that is. The P200 has an all in one spring/damper unit.. let's move on to the suspension. The same goes for the ugly hood ornament. .To get the cursed. or it will ride like a pogo stick. Here's the fork with the lower bearing race cleaned up for new grease.

The top nut holds it all together. That's what we need to remove... ... now you're looking at the top of the shock..and these two.

you will then get the top part of the grey plastic boot off. then get a 17mm wrench and unscrew the top nut. the shock part will fall out of its holder. The grey thing was just to stop the elements from rusting out the spring. Now to get the grey thing off. use a flat head screwdriver and turn the top of the shock counter clockwise. the rod will slowly recede into the metal block and release the top part of the shock. . once the nut is removed. you may want to powdercoat or plate this part to make your bike look better.Get a strap wrench and wrap it around the outside of the top part of the shock. The spring comes out next.

so you kind of have to replace the shock once it leaks. but I can't say enough good about the Sebacs I went with as replacements. The black sleeve spaces the spring so that it can't move around. Unfortunately.Look ma! more plastic! The rubber bumper stops the shock from bottoming out. it's not rebuildable like on older Vespas. really. The bottom flared metal piece holds the spring. once the damper unit dies. the grey thing is just there to be ugly. Kind of a shame. .

Since there's a couple of bearings to get off. Underneath the hub is a seemingly threaded portion. Since the nut is on a fixed piece of metal. it is the part that drives the speedometer gear. this will straighten out the hub nut so you can unscrew it. Use a 19mm wrench and remove the bolt. you should gently tap the hub off with a rubber mallet. Start by tapping a #0 Flat head screwdriver into the indent under the hub's jesus nut.Now let's take off the hub and see all the goodies underneath it. Put it aside. It's a 6201 sealed roller bearing. it won't be much of a wrestling match to unscrew it. Underneath will be one of the two wheel bearings. .

they will collapse and you'll be good to go. the cam will fall out of the hub back plate.First thing to do is remove the brakes.. later. This is always a fun task. Then lever the brakes up and over the operating cam. . remove the clips of the old brakes and hold a towel over them as you do it (they fly far away). but opposite.. put them back on the same way. When you remove them. as is anything involving a really strong spring.

blech. ... Remove the old seal from the outside lip and clean up the earwax grease. Flip the forks over to reveal the speedo drive area.Collect the pieces: the brake cam and the return spring shown.

if it has been a while since rebuilding the forks. Pull the back plate up and away from the axle once the circlip is off.undo the speedo cable securing plate and all these parts should be there. . Remove the center circlip to begin releasing the back plate. order a new speedo drive gear.

it should not be hard as a rock or torn. Here is the seal in question. If they feel rough or if the backplate made noise when shaken.. it is important to make sure this part is pretty much flat. replace the needle roller bearings inside and the seal on the outside. ..Check that the seals and bearings are sound. This is a shim washer.

The hub nut can be re-dented using a large cold chisel and a metal hammer. just follow the steps backwards.. Pack any bearing with lots and lots of bearing grease. so be sure to have the right replacements before doing the job. this one lets the backplate move freely without the seal digging into the fork linkage. It is probably a good idea to put new brake shoes in everytime you rebuild the front end.. Before you reinstall the fork... so now you just put the suspension and hub stuff back together the way you found it. Here is a . The needle roller bearings are kind of hard to remove without destroying them. so make every repair count. Okay. you only end up getting about 3 attempts at removing the hub nut before you'll have to replace it. Here's what I did to that red mudguard in the meantime.This is another shim washer. you'll probably want to run some new cables through it. Since the original hub nuts can be a bit scarce. It should lay flat too.

Then turn the lockwasher down until it starts to apply pressure on the lockwasher. It will usually slip right into place. so just jostle the picture wire at the exiting end until it pops through. . and fish through the hard to reach area in question from the bottom up. put the small bearing on the race with lots of grease to help it roll. just reverse the course and try it again. The easiest way to tell you have it right is that there will be no slack in the fork tube (won't wiggle up and down). peep dis: You take a roll of 70lb braided picture hanging wire. guide the outer cable home by pulling on the picture wire and pushing on the outer cable. not just the forks. but if it gets snagged up. you push it all the way through until it peeks its head out the top of the fork column. it should be the same tightness at the rear hub :). now here's the critical part: you want to make the fork tight in the bearings. Get a set of wide jaw visegrips and just let that lockwasher have it. and once it's that far then you tighten the race until it's just tight enough so that you can sweep the forks back and forth with no resistance. Next. Once it's through the cable housing. tie a good solid knot in the picture wire at the end exiting the new cable housing. this works for any part of the bike. Then put the top bearing race on and cinch it up tight.bulletproof way to install an outer cable the quick and painless way. but not so tight that it's crushing the bearings. When it is secure.. When the top emerges through the hole in the frame. place the washer on top of the bearing race. Once the new cables are in. put the bearing on the lower fork race and grease it with a liberal amount of bearing grease. Next you pull out the picture wire. really long like. Tighten it as hard as you can. and thread it into the new outer cable housing you want to install. Often the cable will just hang up on the place whee it exits the fork. Once it's set. feed the fork tube into the frame.

You know the brakes are good when you can just barely press the lever all the way to the bar. Feel out the braking and tighten as necessary using the slack adjuster. Weird noises can often be caused by loose steering column bearings. and make sure the little washer under the cable header is present. so that the switch sits in the right position. Insert the new speedometer cable last. and make sure that if you have an in-line front brake switch that you cut the brake line the correct length. otherwise you'll get a goofy and pulsing reading on your speedometer. just pop all the headset stuff back together. Reattach the brake cable and cinch it up to just where the brakes engage with the slack adjuster on the hub. Take it for a spin and pay close attention to anything funny or any clunking at braking.Once it's all kosher. .