com/support/r387833-maytag_washer_squeaking_problem This advice is for certain Maytag TOP LOADING washers equipped with a vertical transmission and drive belt system. Loud squeaking noises during the wash cycle or, at the end of the spin cycle, can be attributed to a worn snubber ring and/or brake assembly. The snubber is a plastic ring located under the tub support. It helps to reduce vibration as the tub agitates and spins. You cannot lubricate the snubber to get rid of the noise. In fact, you may damage the washer if you do. A small amount of corn starch can be sprinkled under the bottom tub support where the snubber ring is located to get rid of some noise related problems (this will be the round metal plate where the tub support meets the bottom casing of the machine). A worn snubber will also cause some vibration or out of balance problems. The brake tends to glaze over after it has become worn and will squeak or cause sudden jerking of the washer when the spin cycle stops. If the corn starch tip does not get rid of the squeaks, I would recommend replacing the following parts: Brake Stator Brake Rotor and Lining Snubber: You will need: Brake Removal Kit* *Brake removal tool is required in order to remove the brake assembly and/or to replace the snubber. There is a 200lbs brake spring located under the Brake Stator that must be compressed PRIOR to removal or you could cause injury to yourself. The parts required to make the repairs aren't very expensive, but the tool required to do it can cost about $100. This repair I would rate as DIFFICULT for the average do-ityourselfer. If you've never worked on this type of washer before, this is not a job that I would recommend. However, Maytag DOES provide informative how-to instructions with all their parts. To replace the snubber and brake assembly: 1. Remove the front case of the washer to access the washer interior. 2. Tilt the washer towards the back and remove the drive belt. Slide the drive motor towards the center pulley to relieve belt tension. 3. Remove the drive pulley by removing the center cap and retaining ring from the drive shaft. Remember how these components go back together. There should be a couple of plastic drive bearing pieces and some metal washers above the pulley on the shaft. 3. Lower washer and remove hoses from the wash tub. 4. Remove the suspension springs. NOTE: Pulling the wash tub towards the spring you are removing will release some of the tension on it. 5. I usually remove the entire wash tub with transmission still installed at this point and

Any ideas. 9. I live in an old house with plaster walls. but I find this one easier). easy for small items to lodge . NOTE: It’s easier to start in the back of the washer and work your way towards the front. Found lots of mold and dirt. you can hear the washer on the second floor even though the washers in the base. [no tools needed]. Place the tub assembly right side up and lower back into washer. motor and pump pulleys should turn freely with no resistance. Basically. a groove will be visible at the end of the drive shaft for the retaining ring to go back in place. This is where the brake compression tool will be required to remove the brake rotor. Took it apart and could not find any obvious issues. Reinstall drive belt. (Instructions come with the tool). 12. except for some powered plastic. Looked for warn part or stainless still "rotor" dragging on plastic drum housing. It spins fine but even the cats complain its so loud. brake stator and brake spring can be accessed. loosening all the bolts on the brake stator housing. (There are other methods. and reassemble the brake assembly. Did I get a lemon or is the whole brand suspect ratherbfishin check your pulleys on your pump. NOTE: If the shaft had multiple metal it upside down outside the washer for ease of accessing everything. The brake compression tool is removed at this point and the snubber. you may only need ONE after replacing the snubber ring. motor and tranmisson. Cleaned everything. 7. Only one year on labor. turn pulleys by hand. Retain the extra washer for later use if needed. stator and snubber ring. Replace any worn parts. 13. My Maytag Atlantis Washer sounds like a jet turbine when on spin. NOTE: When placing drive pulley back on shaft turn pulley slightly to ensure it is seated all the way on the shaft. Reinstall all tub suspension springs. it involves compressing the spring by turning the compression tool CW with a wrench. and then slowly turning the compression tool CCW. Tilt washer back and reinstall drive pulley. 8. Can't believe I need to do this on a machine so new. If the drive pulley is reinstalled correctly. Reconnect all hoses back to wash tub. 6. remove belt under bottom of machine. Transmission assembly for 10 years (no labor). 11. brake rotor. 10. I hope you find these instructions helpful. DO NOT forget to place the brake spring back in place before putting the brake rotor back on. Is this a transmission issue? If so how do I prove it and get a replacement. i would suspect your pump. Made no difference.

but I am afraid I wasted my money on this . if that looks ok you have a bad tub seal and hub bearing assembly. also need specialty tools to remove brake and stator with spring. both tub seal and hub have right hand threads. But which bolts? Bolts on support brackets or bolts to metal mounting plate. you will have to remove all six springs to complete repair. upper spin bearings (remember the jet turbine sound) and some special tools. remove inner tub ( spinner) to access hub assembly. Looking at parts on this web site looks like seal kit. transmission and drive motor. So the only parts covered by warranty is basket. I mispoke my washer is slightly over 2 years old. Will look at more later but. Does anyone have a drawing? I got the shell and tub off but I don't know what the next part is to disassemble. Yes the underside of the tub has the same splash marks on (actually solid ring). Also drive shaft and boot would still be in the way. you need to pull off agitator (nut under fabric softener dispenser. Need to locate a more detailed drawing. It would appear I have to take the entire shell off to be able to access bolts holding tub on. it looks like someone killed a chicken inside the cabinet now.inside and make a noise similar to baseball cards on bicycle spokes and can be very loud. I don't mind spending money to get quality. I supect its the one with the spanner. Also looks like I have to remove 3 of the 6 springs. Pump turns fine. I certainly don't think its worth the effort if this is going to happen every two years. Transparent and looks fine. Seal kit requires special spanner and I am worried the bearings are a press fit which I won't be able to handle. Dark red splotches on the walls.) and transmission shaft. I have already remove the basket and nothing was wrapped around it. Could turn it but don't know which way to turn.(first two numbers of serial number determine series). dispenser snaps out) see if something is wrapped around tub seal (it's beige plastic with fins. depends on series which tub seals and bearings to get for your machine. Does drive shaft just pull out? Don't see any E clips or retaining rings. Looks like the washers is What do you think. if you can get transmission. bearing asssembly is mounted in outer tub underneath hub assembly. tub seals and hub and bearings come with it. Remember this is just over a year old washing machine!!! ratherbfishin Suspect its a seal if rusty brown stains are at same level as the bottom of outer tub.

ratherbfishin tranmission comes as complete assembly. It required me to replace the direct coupling every 4 to 5 years but it wasn't hard or expensive and I had it a long time before the transmission gave out. Remember this thing sounds like a jet turbine. This diagram of the transmission might help. spin bearing comes with transmission assembly. unless you can get the transmission replaced under warranty. seal kits and transmission come with directions What about the spin bearings. your transmission didnot fail just your tub seal. . 2006 22:37 by Samurai Appliance Repair Man ____________________ The picture helps but I am still not sure of the order of things. it will come with all new seals and new hub. Is this a common problem or did I just get unlucky? I had a Maytag before. see previous post. Running a gas leaf blower in the house would be quieter!!! Are you thinking they will blame damage to transmission on the seal and refuse to replace it? Does anybody have an exploded diagram that shows the details of how to take the support plate off? I can't figure out even if I manage to loosen the housing how to remove it as it has a boot that wraps tightly under the transmission shaft they shouldnt blame seal for any damage. see appliance breakdown diagram on banner. removing brake stator assembly will allow access to screw holding tub support to seal in outer tub. to get to lower seal and bearing assembly you will have to attack from underneath tub. shaft does not come out. cast aluminum hub is on with right hand threads. Remove load centering springs. Unbolt tub support arms. Could you give me a list by #'s in the drawing? I am have replaced brakes on my car and have some spring tools. Take off pulley. once you remove that you will have to remove springs and brake stator. Last edited on Wed Mar 22nd. parts will depend on which series washer you have. But how strong are those springs? Is the spring your are talking about spring 18 in the drawing? Totally contained by the shaft? Or do I have to worry about a spring going wild? Is item 10 the spinner bearing? . you might consider calling a authorized maytag guy.machine .

then remove all 6 tub balance springs. Last edited on Tue Feb 28th. make sure to mark tub support pan and tub bearing assembly orientation it will make a difference on reassembly. It rattles and was most likely the source of the jet engine noise. remove all parts inside outer tub. red stains caused by water mixing with grease inside tub seals and rust from bearing.( in relation to outer tub). Any clues here. Which way does the index hole for item 9 go in relation to cabinet? Sure hope I don't have to do this every two years!! ratherbfishin It is certainly a major operation. remove belt. 2006 03:34 by ratherbfishin . what needs to line up are the hooks and slots for your supension springs in the tub support. at this point you will have to check before and during reassembly. item 18 is the spring that is under extreme pressure. you will need special tool or could find post at this web site on how to without. note. proceed with caution .could break off if catches on body when removing tub and base assembly. spring under extreme pressure. I used channel locks to get item 5 ("nut") off. remove outer tub assembly and base as whole assembly and turn upside down onto outer tub. should be looking at transmission pulley. disconnect tub to pump hose and pressure switch hose at outer tub.) 2. depending on series of your washer you may be able to buy tub seal and bearing kit which would come with everything you need. see prev post about series number! you might be able to borrrow or rent speciality tools from where you buy parts. They tell me to grease parts but only give a part number for grease. 4. Thanks for the information. again do remove brake stator without relieving pressure on spring 18 on your diagram. RN Grasshopper I got the part and see that it has been redesigned. tub seal. remove thrust bearing . ps.What is the water leakage path? Down the spin axle? What is rusted so badly that the spray looks like dried blood? item 9 is the bearing and seal assembly. ALready hand tub support off before I read you note on marking it.metal hub. the only thing containing spring is the metal coverwith 6 5/16 screws. brake stator and spring. 1. 3. The spring did not seem that strong as the pressure is released by just backing out the screws.(spinner or inner tub . do not remove cover to brake unless you can take pressure off of spring. Bearing is bad. once you remove brake and spring assembly you will find three screws remove those and six screws that house brake and springs.(be careful of air dome. ratherbfishin if you look inside seals you shoud find that they have already been greased.

you completely assemble lower half of washer including transmission pulley while upside down resting on outer tub.pdf+maytag+thrust+bearing&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=10&gl=us .don't forget black rubber seal. I put things back together. The trans pulley will go thru hole in base which means 22 and 23 must be on before mounting to the base. Washer did not spin.looks like big rubber band. the tran pulley will drop thru opening in base. transmission. replace tub springs and then replace hub and tub seal. Then make shure the the brake moves.brake stator and spring.Yes they are after going to the store to get some since I was out.104/search? q=cache:tDCC0m7jCdkJ:appliance.brake rotor. (ie these parts same side of base as tub not the pulley. snubber(keep clean remove any grease. replace tub seal and bearing into outer tub. http://www. screws go into lower transmission bearing.. Took apart stator and put back together. Second comment then why did I need to remove the stator brake? I could of left it assembled and just unbolted tube support base from the supports and not had to deal with a 200 lb spring.justanswer. I pried under stator lip to center of brake with a curved pair of heavy duty "needle nose" pliers. Then did it again but used a screw driver to force movement in off snubber) .com/norgewash. replace tub seal and bearing into outer tub then invert and place back into machine.85.html#brake http://209. This also allowed me to get the pulley (pliers reaching between spokes of pulley) and the E-clip back on. Anyone reading this please note that there is no need to remove the stator and its 200 lb spring to replace the spin bearing / tub seal. That apparently solved the problem. If you do I found the trick to getting the stator back on is to use two 1" long screws with the same threads as the 8 that hold the stator on with to drive it down until the other screws can engage. ratherbfishin note . then bakc out your long screws and put in the correct length screws. OOPS I forgot does parts 22 & 23 go on before assembly to the base so that the spings are the only things holding the transmission to the base or do they go on under the base and act as a retainer.. It has at least 1/8" movement. you should completely assemble bottom half of assembly. Did not spin.173.applianceaid.

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