TS-01, Troubleshooting - Engine

Introduction
This troubleshooting guide is intented to help identify and repair engine starting and
running problems and engine lubrication system problems. The following is a list of
problem symptoms discussed in this guide:
Engine Will Not Rotate Engine Will Rotate But Will Not Start (Fire) Engine Is
Difficult To Start When Cold Engine Is Difficult To Start When Hot Engine Idles
Rough When Cold Engine Idle Surges Engine Shudders At Idle Engine Hesitates
or Stumbles During Acceleration Engine Misses Engine Backfires
Engine Oil Pressure Low Engine Oil Pressure High
Engine Will Not Rotate.
This situation is by far the easiest to troubleshoot as there are fewer possible causes than
for an engine that will not fire.
Engine Will Not Turn Over
Possible Causes Refer To:
Discharged or Faulty Battery ELECT-15
Battery Terminals Loose or Corroded ELECT-15
Bad Starter Motor or Starter Solenoid ELECT-16
Bad Ignition Switch ELECT-17
Broken or Loose Wiring In Starter Circuit ELECT-17
Broken Teeth on Starter Pinion or Flywheel 1

1Remove starter and inspect starter pinion teeth. Roll engine using a 24 mm (or 15/16")
socket and ratchet and inspect flywheel for broken teeth.
Engine Will Rotate But Not Will Not Start (Fire).
When the engine will rotate but, will not start, it can typically be attributed to one of two
causes:
Lack of fuel
Lack of spark
This is where a fuel pressure gauge, a spark tester, and a digital multimeter are essential.
For the most part, these two problems can be diagnosed independently of each other.
However, there are several failures which will prevent the fuel pump from running and
cause a no spark condition.
Testing for Lack of Fuel
As I mentioned before when testing for lack of fuel is is almost essential to have a fuel
pressure gauge. You may test for fuel supply by removing the end cap from the fuel rail,
installing a hose, and direct the open end of the hose to a catch pan. However, even if you
get fuel from the rail during testing there is no guarantee that the fuel pressure is adequate
to start the car. In lieu of a pressure test, fuel pump delivery rate test will at least give you
an idea of the condition of the fuel pump.
Procedure
Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the end of the fuel rail.
Attempt to start the vehicle while checking the fuel pressure gauge.
If the fuel pressure rises on the gauge indicating the fuel pump has started, compare
the maximum fuel pressure reading to the specifications in FUEL-01.
If there is no increase in fuel pressure, and you suspect that that the fuel pump is not
starting, refer to FUEL-16 for fuel pump troubleshooting.
If your fuel pressure is low, or increases very slowly during cranking, refer to FUEL-
16 for troubleshooting other fuel related problems.
Testing For Lack of Spark
The first step in testing for lack of spark is to verify that a no spark condition actually
exists. A simple spark tester available at most auto parts stores is very handy here. I
recommend removing the fuel pump fuse to keep the fuel pump from running during
spark testing.
Disconnect one of the plug wires and connect the spark tester in series with the spark
plug. Crank the engine and look for spark. You'll see the spark pulsing inside the tester as
the engine turns over.
If there is no spark at the spark plug, disconnect the main lead from the ignition coil to
the distributor cap and connect a spark tester in series with the coil wire. Crank the
vehicle and check the tester for spark to the distributor.
If you get good spark at the main lead to the distributor and no spark at the spark plug,
the distributor cap and/or rotor is bad and should be replaced. If there is no spark at the
distributor main lead, proceed with ignition troubleshooting using IGN-04, Ignition
System Troubleshooting.
Engine Is Difficult To Start When Cold.
Possible Causes Checks Procedure
DME Temperature Sensor Check Sensor Resistance. ELECT-19
Fuel System Vapor Lock Fuel System vapor lock can be caused by FUEL-01
 several things including a bad Fuel Pressure
Regulator (FPR), bad fuel pump check valve,
or leaking injectors. Any of these three will
cause the fuel rail pressure to drop rapidly after
shutdown. When this happens the heat from
the engine causes the fuel remaining in the fuel
rail to flash to vapor. This causes voiding in
the fuel rail. During subsequent startups, it
make take a long time cranking the engine or
may take several attempts to get the engine to
fire. This is due to the fact that the fuel pump
may take some time after starting to clear the
void and refill the fuel rail.
To determine if vapor lock is a potential cause,
perform a fuel pressure and leakdown test
(FUEL-01).
If the fuel system fails the leakdown test,
determine the cause of the leakdown using
FUEL-17.
Fuel Pressure Too High Disconnect one fuel injector connector and N/A
attempt to start car. If the car starts and runs,
where it would not before, then the Fuel
Pressure Regulator (FPR) is most likely bad
and should be replaced. Bascially when the
FPR fails causing the fuel rail pressure to go
high, the injectors have too high a differential
pressure across them, they draw too much
current, and the injector driver shuts down.
Disconnecting one injector wire reduces the
injector current enough to allow the engine to
start. Realize that the car will run very rough as
it's running on three cylinders
Speed / Reference Sensors Sometimes a failing or misadjusted Speed IGN-02
and/or Reference sensor will cause difficult
start. This is most common when the engine is
hot. However, they can cause hard cold
starting as well.
Sometimes this may be simply to the wires or
connectors. You may try wiggling the Speed
and Reference sensor wires and connectors to
see if the car will start.
You should also try removing the sensors and
 cleaning the ends. Due to magnetic field
buildup in the sensors they will pick up metal
fines from the flywheel ring gear teeth and
other sources which can interfere with signal
development.
Also, check the Speed and Reference sensor
clearance.
DME Computer Sometimes the DME computer will develop DME-05
bad solder joints. Try tapping on the DME
computer while attempting to start the car. If
the car starts while tapping on the DME
computer, where it would not before, the DME
has some bad solder joints which should be
repaired.
Of course, if you tap on the DME computer
and the car still doesn't start, it doesn't
necessarily mean the DME is good or bad. If
you eliminate all other problems, then it may
be time to consider replacing the DME
computer. As a minimum, I'd open up the
DME computer and inspect it for bad solder
joints.
Engine Is Difficult To Start When Hot.
Possible Causes Checks Procedure
DME/Fuel Pump Relay One of the first signs of a failing DME/Fuel FUEL-05
Pump is difficult hot starting. Quite often when
the DME/Fuel Pump relay starts failing the car
will start without problems when it is cold.
However, when the car has been operated at
normal operating temperature for a while, it
will refuse to start when the car is shut down
and re-start is attempted while the car is still
warm. After the car is allowed to sit and cool
for some period of time (usually 30 minutes to
1 hour), the car will again start without
problem.
If you experience hot start problems, try
making up and installing a jumper for the
DME/Fuel Pump relay (FUEL-05 under
"Emergency Repairs") to see if it solves the hot
start problem. Realize that you must attempt
 this while you are experiencing the hot start
problem for the test to be valid.
Fuel System Vapor Lock Fuel System vapor lock can be caused by FUEL-01
several things including a bad Fuel Pressure
Regulator (FPR), bad fuel pump check valve,
or leaking injectors. Any of these three will
cause the fuel rail pressure to drop rapidly after
shutdown. When this happens the heat from
the engine causes the fuel remaining in the fuel
rail to flash to vapor. This causes voiding in
the fuel rail. During subsequent startups, it
make take a long time cranking the engine or
may take several attempts to get the engine to
fire. This is due to the fact that the fuel pump
may take some time after starting to clear the
void and refill the fuel rail.
To determine if vapor lock is a potential cause,
perform a fuel pressure and leakdown test
(FUEL-01).
If the fuel system fails the leakdown test,
determine the cause of the leakdown using
FUEL-17.
Speed / Reference Sensors Sometimes a failing or misadjusted Speed IGN-02
and/or Reference sensor will cause difficult
start. This is most common when the engine is
hot.
Sometimes this may be simply to the wires or
connectors. You may try wiggling the Speed
and Reference sensor wires and connectors to
see if the car will start.
You should also try removing the sensors and
cleaning the ends. Due to magnetic field
buildup in the sensors they will pick up metal
fines from the flywheel ring gear teeth and
other sources which can interfere with signal
development.
Also, check the Speed and Reference sensor
clearance.
DME Computer Sometimes the DME computer will develop N/A
bad solder joints. Try tapping on the DME

Engine Idles Rough When Cold.
Possible Causes
DME Temperature Sensor
Vacuum Leak
Engine Idle Surges.
Possible Causes
Idle Stabilizer / Auxiliary
Air Valve
computer while attempting to start the car. If
the car starts while tapping on the DME
computer, where it would not before, the DME
has some bad solder joints which should be
repaired.
Of course, if you tap on the DME computer
and the car still doesn't start, it doesn't
necessarily mean the DME is good or bad. If
you eliminate all other problems, then it may
be time to consider replacing the DME
computer. As a minimum, I'd open up the
DME computer and inspect it for bad solder
joints.
Checks Procedure
On startup when the engine is cold, the DME ELECT-19
temperature sensor tells the DME computer
that the engine (coolant) is cold. This causes
the DME computer to supply a much richer
mixture to the engine (a hot engine atomizes
fuel better). When the DME temperature starts
to fail, it normally sends a higher than normal
temperature signal to the DME computer. The
DME computer in turn supplies a leaner
mixture to the engine than that which is
normally required. So, the engine runs rough
(lean) and if it gets bad enough, may not run at
all.
Check the cold resistance of the DME
temperature sensor
Inspect all hoses connecting to the intake N/A
manifold which are downstream of the AFM.
Checks Procedure
Clamp line from Idle Stabilizer / Auxiliary Air N/A
Valve to the intake manifold to see if idle
 stabilizes. If it does remove the Idle Stabilizer /
Auxiliary Air Valve, clean it with Carburetor
and Choke cleaner, reinstall and check
operation. If the surging idle persists, replace
the Idle Stabilizer / Auxiliary Air Valve.
Vacuum Leak Inspect all hoses connecting to the intake N/A
manifold which are downstream of the AFM.
Throttle Body Butterfly Remove throttle body and clean area around N/A
sticking butterfly valve.
Engine Shudders At Idle.
Possible Causes Checks Procedure
Engine Idle Set Too Low Check idle and reset if necessary. FUEL-08
Early US/Canada 944 DME There was an inherent problem with the early N/A
Programming 944 DME programming (pre-1985.5
US/Canadian models only). These cars had a
momementary fuel cutoff when the throttle
was released from any throttle position off idle.
However, the tendency was for the idle to drop
too low before the fuel cut back in resulting in
an idle shudder. The problem seems to be more
noticeable on some cars and on others does not
appear at all.
There are several ways to fix this problem.
One is to replace the DME with the DME from
a 1985.5 944. The other is to replace the DME
computer with an ROW (Rest of the World)
DME. And finally, you can adjust the throttle
stop (loosen the throttle stop lock nut) until
you hear the Throttle Position Switch click.
Then tighten the lock nut. This eliminates the
closed-throttle switch. Start the engine and
adjust the idle adjustment screw to bring the
idle back down but, leave it a little high
(around 1000 RPM). There is also a software
fix which was developed by FR Wilk
(http://frwilk.com/early944/misc/shudder.htm.
However, it's typically beyond the capabilities
of most shade tree mechanics.
Engine Hesitates or Stumbles During Acceleration.
Possible Causes Checks Procedure
Dead spot in Air Flow Test AFM. ELECT-19
Sensor / Air Flow Meter
(AFM) potentiometer.
Vacuum Leak. With a large vacuum leak, the car may idle N/A
correctly. However, as soon as you open the
throttle, the car may hesitate, stumble, or even
cutoff. The best way to look for vacuum leaks
is to connect a source of compressed air
(approximately 10 psi will do it) to the intake
manifold with the engine not running and
listen for air leaks.
Spark Plugs Fouled. Remove spark plugs and check condition. ENG-18
Engine Misses.
Possible Causes Checks Procedure
Bad spark plug wires. Run the engine in a dark area and look for N/A
arcing from the spark plug wires to the engine.
Cracked distributor cap. Remove cap and check condition. N/A
Faulty spark plug. Remove spark plugs individually and inspect ENG-18
for broken or excessively worn electrode or
cracked insulator. Check the condition of the
spark plugs by color.
Vacuum leak. Check for vacuum leaks by pressuizing the N/A
intake manifold with compressed air. Listen
for leaks.
Clogged fuel filter. Replace filter. FUEL-03
DME Computer A faulty DME computer can cause a variety of DME-05
starting and running problems. Normally,
problems with the DME computer are the
result of bad solder joints which can frequently
be repaired. There's really no way to test the
DME unless you can swap it into another
vehicle or unless you can borrow a known
good DME to install for testing purposes. And,
even a good used DME computer is a little
pricey. So, I don't like to run out and replace
the DME unless I've eliminated all other
possible causes. If you suspect the DME
 computer is bad, as a minimum, I would open
it up and inspect for bad solder joints (and
repair them) before replacing the computer.
Engine Backfires.
Possible Causes Checks Procedure
Fautly ignition system. If you have one cylinder that is not firing N/A
completely or is firing intermitently, raw fuel
can be expelled into a hot exhaust system
where it is subequently ignited. Check for
faulty spark plugs wires and/or faulty spark
plug.
Vacuum leak. Check for vacuum leaks by pressuizing the N/A
intake manifold with compressed air. Listen
for leaks.
DME Computer A faulty DME computer can cause a variety of DME-05
starting and running problems. Normally,
problems with the DME computer are the
result of bad solder joints which can frequently
be repaired. There's really no way to test the
DME unless you can swap it into another
vehicle or unless you can borrow a known
good DME to install for testing purposes. And,
even a good used DME computer is a little
pricey. So, I don't like to run out and replace
the DME unless I've eliminated all other
possible causes. If you suspect the DME
computer is bad, as a minimum, I would open
it up and inspect for bad solder joints (and
repair them) before replacing the computer.
Engine Oil Pressure Low.
Possible Causes Checks Procedure
Oil Level Low Check oil level and top off if necessary. On LUBE-03
1987 and newer 944s, check for low oil level
light lit.
Crankshaft pulley bolt Check torque on crankshaft pulley bolt (155 ft- LUBE-03
loose. lbs).
Bad oil pressure sending Check sending unit. LUBE-03
unit. ELECT-19
Oil pump lost prime. This is not uncommon with cars that have been LUBE-03
sitting around for a while without being run.
To prime the oil pump, remove the oil filter,
and pour oil down the center hole of the oil
filter housing while turning the crankshaft in
the counter-clockwise direction. Install the oil
filter (preferably a new one) when done and
crank the engine to check for oil pressure.
Bad or stuck open oil There's really no way to check the oil pressure N/A
pressure relief valve. relief valve operation. About the only thing
you can do is remove the relief valve, clean it,
and reinstall it making sure it does not bind as
you install it in the housing.
Worn engine bearings. If engine oil pressure indications are fairly LUBE-03
normal exept that the oil pressure indicates low
when the engine is fully warmed up, the cause
could be worn main and/or rod bearings. For
normal bearing pressure indications take a look
at LUBE-03.
Broken oil pump pickup This is not a very common occurance and N/A
tube. there's no way to check for it without removing
the oil pan. Removing the pan to check the
pickup tube is a last resort if all other attempts
to restore oil pressure have failed.
Bad oil pump The oil pumps on these cars are generally N/A
bullet proof. When they go bad, it's generally
the result of losing prime to the oil pump
which can destroy not only the pump but, the
main and rod bearings as well. Again, this is
one of those things that you can't really test
for. All you can really do is remove the pump,
disassemble it, and inspect the pump gears.
Engine Oil Pressure High.
Possible Causes Checks Procedure
Bad oil pressure sending A bad sending unit is normally the cause for a LUBE-03
unit high oil pressure indication. For symptoms of a ELECT-19
bad sending unit and troubleshooting, check
LUBE-03 and ELECT-19.
Stuck closed oil pressure Not a very common problem. There's really no N/A
relief valve. way to check the oil pressure relief valve
 operation. About the only thing you can do is
remove the relief valve, clean it, and reinstall it
making sure it does not bind as you install it in
the housing.
Blocked oil passage. About the only time I've seen this happen is N/A
when the check valve for the oil supply to the
cylinder head sticks closed. When this
happens, it will be accompanied by loud
tapping noise from the hydraulic lifters. If the
oil passage into the camshaft housing itself
becomes blocked you'll typically see an oil
leak at the cam assembly to cylinder head
gasket.
Clark's Garage © 1998