DIY XT-225 valve adjust Side Covers removed.

klm4755
(Minor Revisions and PDF conversion by RickMJr)

Here is a step by step process for conducting a valve

adjustment on a Yamaha XT-225. The Bike in the
photos is a 2005 model. Make sure the bike is in
neutral, fuel shut off, and is cold (not ran in the past
~8 hours). Please feel free to add to the steps with you
tips, tricks, and tribal knowledge for the benefit of all!

1) First Step, remove side covers using a Phillips head

screw driver.

The right side:

2) Remove the seat using a 10 mm socket + ratchet.

The left side:

The seat removed.

Here’s a view of the XT with the seat and side covers
removed.

Below are the covers off.

Close up view of the left side.

4) Next, unhook fuel line from fuel cock assembly or

the carburetor. The first photo shows a fuel filter that
3) Remove the gas tank side covers next using a 10 mm
was installed by the owner.
socket with 4" extension. Unsnap the grommet on each
side. Pull away towards the front of the tank to
release attach stake.
The carburetor side: 5) Remove the gas tank bolt next using 10mm sized
socket. There should be three parts: bolt, tank
washer, and locating damper.

The fuel cock side:

Below is the tank with attach parts off

Be sure to use a rag to catch dripping gas.

Important! Make sure fuel cock tank valve assembly is

not supporting tank weight, let it overhang like this
6) Remove the gas tank bracket. Note, this bracket may 7) In order to turn the engine, remove this crank case
lift with the tank. That is ok plug with a large standard screwdriver.

Tank bracket (special washer and locating damper) 8) To view the crankshaft location remove this plug
removed also.

Gas tank brackets and associated parts are shown 9) To remove the valve cover you’ll need a 5mm allen
below. socket and a 5mm allen key. There are five 5mm allen
head bolts, all of same size (diameter and grip length),
so don’t worry about mixing them up.
9a) Start the exhaust side (front cover). There are 9d) Photo of the exhaust cover off
three allen head bolts to remove. The allen bolts
closest to you can be removed with the socket. The
others require the allen key.

9e) Photo showing the intake cover off.

9b) Next remove the two bolts on the intake side (rear
cover). Again the closest bolt can be removed using
the allen socket. The other bolt requires the allen key.

All engine access parts off; we will inspect these parts

later

9c) Here’s a photo using the allen key to remove a

bolt.
Here’s a close-up of the Intake valve.
10) Attach 17mm socket to this crankshaft bolt, use
small 4" extension
As shown in the photo below, rotate counter-clockwise
while looking in the view port hole
look in here
These are the 3 radial groves on the flywheel, the one
in the middle is top dead center (TDC), however a four
stroke engine may read bottom dead center ( I’m not
that sure about this statement). However, it is not
important. What is important is to check the exhaust
gap while you have the center groove visible. If you can
get a .003" feeler gage in the gap your at TDC. If not
rotate the flywheel another 360 degrees counter-
clockwise and check the gap. This time it will be there.
So, you have a 50/50 chance of getting it right the first
time. By the way don’t use the ratchet function on your
tool. Once you see the flywheel notches, just spin your
tool one full revolution to see notches
again!
11) Need specifications for valve gaps. Do exhaust first Using the feeler gauge, determine if valve adjustment
.006 to .007 inch is necessary. If the .007 inch feeler gauge easily fits
the gap is too big. If the .006 inch feeler gauge
doesn’t fit, the gap is too small.

Need right feeler gauges

12) To aid in adjusting the valve gap use a valve tool.

Some folks use needle nose pliers. A valve adjusting
tool makes this job a lot easier. Use 3mm side. It will
hold the valve adjust bolt steady while you tighten the
valve lock bolt.

This photo shows the exhaust valve and gap.

12a) Loosen lock bolt with 10mm open end socket, Torque wrench in action
adjust valve with tool, check with feeler gage. When
the gap is correct, hold the valve steady using the valve
tool or needle nose pliers and tighten the lock nut.
Don’t let valve spin with locknut. This is where the
valve tool is handy! Be sure to double check valve gap
after you have tightened the lock nut. Correct if
necessary.

14) Repeat the same procedure for the intake valve but
use feeler gauges between .002-.004 inches.

13) Torque lockbolt with torque wrench to 10 ft*lbs,

but torque wrench may not not fit so.....

Determine if the intake valve gap is too small or big.

Use an open end socket like this!

This gap is too big, need to adjust.

14a) Adjusting intake valve using the valve tool and 16) Inspect exhaust valve cover, wipe it down with a
open end wrench. clean cloth and make sure the seal looks good.

Tighting the intake 17) Inspect intake valve cover too. Clean and inspect
the rubber seal.

15) Torque the intake valve locknut to 10 ft*lbs

18) Clean valve cover/engine case surfaces.
19) Install the exhaust and intake valve covers. And the exhaust side

20) Clean and inspect the crankcase plugs. Verify that 22) Replace the gas tank bracket and damper. Install
the O-rings are OK. Screw the plugs back on. the gas tank with the rounded groove rails first (the
front of the tank) and then bolt it down.

21) Torque the two allen head cover bolts that are
accessible by the torque wrench (one intake and one 23) Torque the gas tank bolt to 5 ft*lbs.
exhaust) to 7.2 ft*lbs. Other three allen head bolts will
need to be attached by allen key, no room for torque
wrench. Just remember that 7.2 ft*lbs is just barley
tighter than snug. Here’s the intake side.
24) Reattach fuel line.

25) Reattach tank covers.

26) Reattach seat by installing the front side first and

then attach the rear side bolts.

27) Reattach the side covers top end first, popping

them back into place, then screw them back in.

All buttoned up and ready for a test ride. Results - no

pings thru any of the throttle/gear ranges.