SE-R Engine Performance Tuning Tips Written by Mike Kojima Last updated: 09/21/99

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------Jump to: Timing Synthetic Oils and Lubricants Headers Exhaust Systems Air Intakes ECU's Cam Shafts Adjustable Cam Sprockets Headwork Pistons Crank, Rods, Bearings, Machining, Balancing, Coatings, Manifolds, etc. Extrude Honing Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulleys Big Bore Throttle Bodies and MAFs Spark plugs and Ignition systems Reader's Contributions Some additional information that people might be interested in: Mike's Dyno Charts Mike's Sport Compact Car articles. Mike's Suspension Tuning Tips Mike's Brake Performance Tips Mike's Drivetrain Performance Tips Engine Block Preparation Guidelines Searl's Turbo Project/Mike's Turbo Theory

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------Please Contribute! We would like to post your tips and findings also! We prefer hp figures that are confirmed by objective measure that can be quantified. Like dyno charts preferably from the K&N Dynojet chassis dynomometer. Butt dyno results and personal opinions will be accepted but they must be stated as such. We want to keep this as a no-BS, factual, hard core tips section. Opposing opinions to the editors are welcome but remember please present your arguments in a quantitative and professional fashion if you want them posted. Send your contributions to: Mike Kojima. They will be reviewed by editors and

posted as soon as possible.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------Due to popular request, I have compiled a guideline list of sorts relating to my, and other list members experiences with various aftermarket performance parts. This info can hopefully be a good reference source for newbies and can help to eliminate a lot of repeat posts on the SE-R mailing list. Hopefully other list members will also contribute their experiences so we can post them here. We are basically only interested in information that can be backed up with quantitative data to keep this a no-BS guide. We are not interested in those who will argue their personal butt dyno results against real dyno results to the nth degree. It will be acceptable to state butt dyno charts as an opinion. Items that are opinions will be posted as such, as I have on my own opinions in the following pages. When hp levels are quoted we are talking the maximum amount of power gained by the part in SOME point of the powerband, not necessarily the peak hp gained. Typically these maximum gains are somewhere between the torque peak and the hp peak. So anyway here it goes« Timing Here is the all time cheapest hop up that anyone can do. Typically most SR20DEs have the timing set to 13 degrees or less from the factory. I have seen as low as 10 degrees on a brand new factory fresh car. You can safely run up to 15 degrees on regular gas on most SR20DEs. For best performance on a stock engine, put in 92 octane and dial in between 17 to 19 degrees. This has been proven by recent dyno testing on a stock car to give up to 6 more hp at the wheels. Remeber if you have your timing turned up this high you MUST use 92 octane fuel. Do not exceed 17 degress of advance if you have a JWT ECU. Don¶t tolerate any detonation though. Detonation will kill your engine quicker than lard and coconut oil will kill you! I am putting the detonation warning in here because the timing pointer on the engine can be easily bent which could cause you to accidentally over-advance your timing! It happened to me so be careful! If you have the JWT ECU, set the timing at 15 degrees. On the dyno I have not seen any difference between 15 and 17 degrees with a JWT ECU although bottom end snap might feel a little better. It is better to be safe at 15 than on the edge at 17 for only a perceived difference in throttle response. Be sure to disconnect the TPS when adjusting the timing and remember that the JWT NOS module requires that TPS terminal 1 and 2 be shorted out when setting the timing. [More info on setting timing here.]

Synthetic Oils and Lubricants

This is a good non-envasive hop up part. I am going two open a whole can of worms here but as far as I know, Mobil 1 is the only synthetic oil to get for your engine. Not only is it the cheapest but it works the best. There is a lot of industry insider information on oil and Mobil 1 has been tested by many OEM manufacturers and found to come out on top. I don¶t want to start a big thing about it and cannot divulge my information's secret sources, but trust me on this one. Granted my test data did not include Valvoline, Castrol or Havoline Synthetic but it did include ALL of the famous synthetics who will remain nameless on the record. In fact, one oil that is highly regarded by list members that is sold as a direct marketed product is in fact nothing but rebottled Mobil 1 for twice the price. Recently, my buddies at Cosworth report that Royal Purple seems to have good bearing life in the XD Indy engine but for the most part Cosworth uses Mobil One as factory fill. I have had personal good luck with Motul but have no scientific test to prove that it is super good. Adam Saruwatari tells me that Motul has cut his engine wear by 3 fold. Nismo uses Motul in their Group C LeMans car as well as the GT390R. Their testing showed that Motul was excellent. For gear oil I have found that under racing conditions Redline MTL had superior shifting characteristics but for me has led to faster gearbox wear. On the street this may not be an issue. Nissan Motorsports has had good luck with regular Redline Shock Proof gear oil. Personally I like Motul gear oil. It seems to shift nearly as well as MTL and better than Mobil 1. It has a heavier body so it should have better shock protection for the gears than MTL. Granted this is not based on any scientific evidence, just observations and common sense. As a non oil related note, Redline Water Wetter is legitimate and really has a reduction of water temp by about 20 degrees F, good stuff. These super lubes can free up about 1-3 hp, have much better gearbox and engine operation in very cold weather and directly help performance by keeping your engine in top shape for longer. In my opinion, you still need to change the engine oil at about 3000 miles for best results even with synthetics. I have noticed that the oil pressure at hot idle starts to drop at about 1500 miles with dino oil and 3000 miles with synthetics. I believe that this is caused by the oil¶s shearing down under hard use. That¶s where my 3000 mile opinion comes from. It is not scientific oil analysis but is based on some data. BTW, I have never had an oil-related failure in any engine I have ever built while following these rules. The hydraulic lash adjusters on the SR20 engine do not like thick oil. Thick oil causes them to pump up and become noisy. This is especially true of 1991 year engines. For these engines you must run 5w-30 or 10w-30 oil. To get good protection under hard use with these light oils it is, in my opinion, important to run synthetics. These thinner oils provide less viscous drag which can give more hp and better fuel economy. To my knowledge, the best oil filters are genuine Nissan. This is mostly because of the antidrainback valve which goes a long way to reduce cold start wear. Also, the bypass valve

This is surprising as 4-1 designs generally are better for top end power. The factory filter also has a thicker shell and better crimping that your typical aftermarket filter so it is less likely to blow off if. where as the Hotshot does not come into play until near the torque peak. with highly built cars getting more power and stock cars getting more toward the 10 hp side of the scale. and the Stillen. The Stillen unit boosts bottom end. The Stillen Design has been changed to a short runner 4-1 design. Both of these headers have been redesigned since my last update. I have installed both headers and the fit is very good on either. The material has been thickened to 14 gauge. If you are going to keep your car pretty stock or really need bottom end torque. If your car is modified with camshafts and other bits of hop up stuff the Hotshot is preferable although both perform well in either role due to the forgivingness of the tri-y design. 8-10.flow rates and the particle pass through size have been determined by the factory as the best compromise between effective filtering and good flow with low pressure drop. The ceramic coating may aid catalytic light off under cold start conditions which is helpful for OBD-II cars (1995 and later). the Stillen is a good choice. I have had experience with two different ones both of which offer better construction than what is typical of aftermarket headers. These headers are the Hotshot and the Stillen. Testing on the dynojet show that the Hotshot is good for about 10-15 wheel hp. The hp on the Stillen unit peaks about 500 rpm lower than the Hotshot. the bypass valve sticks or the oil is super thick on a real cold day. The Hotshot header has been given larger diameter primaries of 1-3/4". The Stillen header still makes slightly more power below 3500 rpm than the Hotshot but the Hotshot outpowers it by at least about 4-5 more top end hp. The new Hotshot gives about 3-5 more wheel hp than the old one according to dyno tests on my car and another closer to stock car. I have personally tested the Hotshot but am relying on other list members data for the Stillen unit. This cuts down on noise and reduces the chance of the pipes cracking. However some list members . Both of these headers are constructed of heavy gauge mild steel that is ceramic coated for appearance and long life. [You can get the Nissan oil filters at Courtesy Nissan for about $5 for the 200SX and $4 for the Classic] Headers Headers are probably the biggest bang for the buck item in the modification list. for instance. up from the previous 1-5/8". This makes the primaries have less of a neckdown from the exhaust port exit. Its power output is better according to Stillen but our testing resulted in nearly the same amount of power as the old design. up from 16 gauge used previously.

I am not sure of its root cause.have reported fitment problems on both. The AEBS header produces the widest powerband of all SR20 headers and nearly as much peak hp as the power king. The generally cheesy construction won't last long either. Then fully tighten the header fitting big EGR nut. This header produced the least amount of power of all evaluated. In my opinion the AEBS or the Hotshot are the best headers for the SR20 currently on the market. The flex pipe is of low quality and will not last long. The new Hotshot header solves this problem with the addition of a copper gasket that is just about blow-out proof. The fix is no big deal. ceramic coated steel with nice welds. The new generation Stillen and Hotshot headers do not seem to make this noise. To me it sounds like a cricket chirping. The new Stillen header has no gasket here so the problem is cured! The have been a few new companies to come out with an SR20 header recently: Pacesetter This header looks like a cheap rip off of the old style Hotshot. The O2 sensor location on the Stillen unit is a little low for the 98-99 Sentra SE and requires rerouting of the sensor wire which is kinda self-explanatory. They have been some complaints of a rattle or chirping noise that both headers make at approximately 2500 rpm. The AEBS header features a merged collector which is a very nice. the Hotshot. Finally fully tighten the two 12mm nuts on the EGR valve. powerband-widening feature. This is surprising as 4-1 designs usually favor the top end of the powerband. First you have to loosen the two 12mm bolts that hold the EGR tube to the EGR valve. then tighten the EGR valve nuts a little. Then start the big EGR fitting nut on the header side. It has produced as much as 12 wheel hp on some cars. It is also the least expensive and does produce a good gain of about 5-7 hp so it might have some merit. The fit of the Hotshot is flawless and does not require much fiddling but if you do have a slight misalignment the above procedure will work also. This is not harmful and not all cars do it. You must remember to re-torque the bolts after a few days to allow the gasket to take a set. Unfortunately the AEBS has a . The EGR fitting on the Stillen header requires a little fudging to install. It also ripped off the experimental secondary crossover pipe that was featured in one of my SCC articles. the metal gasket from a 300ZX intermediate pipe will work or applying high temp O2 sensor safe red silicon. The intermediate pipe gasket blows out in short order on both headers. It is made of thick wall. Too bad they did not read the article to find out that it did not work! It has thin tubing and is painted with a cheap black paint that instantly burns off and wreaks havoc with your 02 sensor. Either solution will work well. This is not a problem but can be a little hard to do for the unmechanical. AEBS This header distributed by Group 5 is a beautifully made full race 4-1 design. My own personal experience is that both designs fit well. The Z gasket must be modified so the bolt holes line up but that can be done in seconds with a Dremel tool.

the power produced by the exhaust is not always consistent. [For those do-it-yourselfers out there. GReddy makes one of the best exhausts tested. If you have one of these restricted exhaust systems you can expect a big gain. Some Classics and NXen have a washer-like restrictor plate deep inside the muffler.few minor quirks. Stillen . I believe list member Ian Lyn and Shell Black have some experience with a gain in performance after removing the restrictor but the noise level went up also. [ Merlin's results are here. It is very simple to disable the EGR so Group 5 should add the instructions to the header. If you own an ABES header simply disconnect the vacuum line to the top of the EGR valve and plug it. is loud. It is one piece and more difficult to install unless you have access to a lift and it is lacking any provisions for the EGR system. long length primary tube 4-1 header. It has only about 2 psi back pressure and is sort of quiet. Merlin Johnson has done extensive testing of different sizes and type of exhaust systems. It is also painted which is a disadvantage for looks and life. These cars get about 6-8 hp when you upgrade the exhaust. It is impossible to spot by just looking at the car. The gains of a cat back system are not super huge and mostly at high rpm. There are no instructions on how to disable the EGR with the header either so many buyers of this header suffer from driveabilty problems. It is also low in price. The HKS system is supposed to be quiet and the Borla. I have not tested the HKS or Borla system. S&S The S&S header is a small diameter. G20¶s have a pretty hard to improve upon exhaust from the factory as stock. This makes it a good low end and mid range header. On our SERs. It gives a 6-8 hp advantage over a wide powerband. I¶ve heard. It is a good header for the money if you have a stockish motor. we have Header Install Notes and more Header Info] Exhaust Systems Perhaps the most popular first piece of speed equipment is the exhaust system. His testing methodology is very valid and believable. The Borla system also has a restrictor plate. This is because of variance of muffler design even within one model year. Unfortunately I do not have a production number or VIN range of these affected cars so I cannot narrow down exactly which vehicles have these mufflers. I doubt that you could do better at the corner muffler shop. We have seen gains of 1-3 hp on a typical SE-R although some SE-Rs have gained as much as 8 wheel hp. This is because the disconnected EGR system sucks air making the car run too lean at part throttle.] Quite a few list members have complained that the Stillen exhaust is too loud and rusts out but for the $135 price. 200SX owners can benefit from a low restriction exhaust because it will reduce the chance of getting an EGR temp sensor MIL light.

5" from the cat back piping is appropriate. You still need a presilencer with them. If you are to the point where you are getting into camshafts and headwork. The Walker and the Magnaflow mufflers are real loud by themselves and require a presilencer.25"-2. Look for a perforated core. do not bother with removing or gutting your cat. The Walker UltraFlow. perforated core mufflers like the Edelbrock should work well also. although they are priced well and if . After the cat. as do the famous Super-Trap and the Flow master. this (gutting the cat) is also a big time violation of federal law! Gutting the cat will cause a MIL light on post '95 SE-R¶s which is to be avoided come registration time. or Bassani. Remember. If you are so inclined. you can do your own testing by welding a pipe bung right after the cat and running a silicon hose to a 0-20 psi gauge in your car. Make sure all of the gas is gone! Better yet. straight through. Do not enlarge your header collector to bigger than 2". If your engine is stock or if you are limiting yourself to bolt-ons. 3" is the way to go. Make sure that you are truly getting a perforated core! A 24" long Walker with an UltraFlow or Magnaflow creates a system with about 2 psi back pressure that is decently quiet. use a new plastic one so you won't blow anything up! Unless you are turbo or nitrous only and are going for the maximum in power. Straight through mufflers are by far the lowest backpressure. or Magnaflow are some common ones. although I have no direct experience with them. This is even with a built NA motor. For turbo applications. However we did run mid 12's in Ryan's turbo car with a cat and still passing California's stringent dyno smog test. 2. I have found that even with my very built 206 hp NA motor that going to a 2. It has a perforated core.will most likely come out with a super high quality all stainless system soon. Unless the cat is melted it only has about 1.25 collector lost about 6 hp through all of the powerband. Then you can do 3rd gear runs through the rpm range recording backpressure. so don¶t bother with them. With a turbo or NOS you will lose some power. Stay away from the generic louvered core glass packs. often more than stock. Use an old fuel filter as a surge accumulator to smooth gauge readings. Apex'i. You can buy mandrel bends from Kinsler. The common Turbo-style mufflers are not very quiet and have lots of backpressure. Try to avoid the typical muffler shop crush bends.5 psi of backpressure or less and only affects power by 1-2 hp if that. non-crush bends in your system. Even though those are straight through they have incredible backpressure. For you do-it-your-selfers here are some general guidelines. Burns stainless. Dual path. This is a pipe with lots of small punched holes. There is little to be gained with aftermarket cats either. The Walker Magnum glass pack that most auto parts stores sell here is good for this. limit your pipe diameter to no more than 2" or you will lose some bottom end with no applicable gain on top. Shell Black has proved that there may be some power to be found with fairly built NA motors by going to 2.5 inch pipe. That way your local muffler shop can cut and section these for smooth.

This exhaust seems very promising for being a good power need to replace your stock cat they can be a good value. verifying it with MAF voltage readings and found it to flow less than the JWT POP. [Here is some more info on Exhaust systems] Air Intakes The most common are the JWT POP Charger (POP stands for Performance Optimized Program) and the Stillen which are almost identical. Be sure to oil them with K&N oil after cleaning in detergent and water. Recently Courtesy Nissan has started to offer a very high quality 2. If you want to test your own filters. not week to week. a light even coating is fine. durable and inexpensive . I think list member Justin Choi might have tested one. Hotshot is planing a CAI also. Too much oil can contaminate the hot wire in the MAF. Don¶t go crazy with the oil.a definite best buy. I put one on a white rag and tapped it and lots of dirt went right through it. One of my friends tested one on a flow bench and found it flowed better than the POP. The HKS powerflow does not seem to filter well. If your engine is built. they will not necessarily give you more power but will allow your engine to reach it¶s potential by eliminating the intake restriction of the stock air box. You can expect 1-3 hp with these units. Justin Choi has done a lot of filter testing so he would be a good source of information. the more air you are flowing. Both are washable and reusable and come with a nicely machined aluminum velocity stack base. Perhaps the most potent air intake is the JWT POP combined with the CAI or cold air intake by Place Racing. The higher the voltage. but the Stillen and POP has more than enough flow capacity for our motors and personally I would rather have a filter than a boulder strainer. It is a nice looking chrome plated part and produces just as much power as the place . I have tested this combo and found up to an 8 hp gain with 3 more peak hp. RS Akimoto supposedly make an intake for the Classic but I have never seen one. This part is one of my bang for the buck recommendations. I have no direct experience with the GReddy unit but it appears to be made of a fine foam which could filter better I suppose. Remember also that temperature and barometric pressure affect the readings so it is important to use only back to back data.5" 100% polished stainless exhaust system designed with feedback from Shell Black and King of Beers Jeff Naeyaert. simply use a multimeter to measure the voltage to the MAF.

Without slamming anyone. I won¶t name a name but their ads feature an Eclipse burning out with a sunglassed ponytail looking dude driving it. All of you who have done dyno work know that the power drops about 3hp after the first run. as well. Can you raise the rev limit? Can you eliminate the speed limit? Can you compensate for larger injectors across the entire operating range? Can you compensate for a different MAF? Do you use a Horiba A/F monitor? Do you understand offsets? Do you know what invalid time is? Can you program a OBD-II box? If they cannot answer all of these questions then go to JWT and save yourself some aggravation. On real cold mornings my car has a slight hesitation for about 30 seconds but that is about the only negative effect that I have personally experienced. In fact. I have blocked off the hot water passages in my intake manifold and throttle body. The hot water prevents the manifold and throttle plate from icing up under cold conditions. but I'm amazed by their technical competence and I am very hard to impress most of the time. The CAI stays cool to the touch even when everything else is burning hot. If you want to buy another brand of ECU. JWT is also the only company to my knowledge at this time that can do reliable programming on Post 1995 OBD-II ECU¶s. dyno pull after dyno pull. ask these questions. mistakes have been found on just about all of the other manufactures chips. To complement the CAI.unit in our testing. Now my car consistently has the same hp. one famous manufacturer did not change one single bit of code in the program! They merely socketed the PCB. and put an EPROM WITH THE STOCK CODE IN PLACE! They charge 600 bucks for this piece of crap. when examining the code in other companies ECUs. ECUs So far in my experience the only ECU worth considering at this point is the JWT unit. . They are also the only tuner in this country who has pushed the limit of SR20 (and Nissan in general) development. Without revealing specifics. The CAI can reduce your ¼ mile time by close to 2/10ths and make your car a lot more consistent on a hot day. I do not recommend this to anyone who lives where it gets below freezing but for my native sunny California it is OK. The throttle may also need to be cleaned more frequently as the hot water keeps the PVC blow-by residue crap from condensing on it. The manifold used to get baking hot like the valve cover but now only gets slightly warm to the touch. to my knowledge most of the other ECUs on the market have some degree of code mistakes in them. I am not paid by JWT so I am not biased. Look at the Mike Mager's ¼ mile timeslip table. They advertise in all the major magazines.

If you are planning to do track events this almost makes the JWT ECU a mandatory item. On an esoteric note. This manifests itself when the air temp gets into the 80¶s or if you are drafting in a pack (only do this on the track kids!). The ECU really adds to the driving pleasure of these cars. especially in an NX. The ECU can take up to 0. If you follow the same driving pattern with the JWT ECU. stops this problem. JWT can also custom program the ECU for high compression and turbocharged applications for a reasonable fee. it has the potential for better fuel economy. the MIL light was on and the thing was running blazingly fast 16 second ¼ mile times! The JWT cams are ground on new genuine Nissan billets so the factory base circle diameter can be maintained. Other companies regrind the base circle smaller to get more lift and duration on a stock cam. This is important for correct hydraulic lash adjuster function and correct valve train geometry. if you are going to run 11:1 compression. That¶s a reason why the fuel pressure riser does not work too well on our cars. In fact. The JWT ECU adds up to 8-10 hp is some parts of the power band and generally adds 3-5 hp on top. as well. I observed their mule car in action at the strip. This goes on in a viscous loop until the engine overheats big time. For the 200SX. Some custom . To do this correctly would require an asymmetrical grind on the lobes to match valve events because of the change in the rockers angularity and motion ratio. It idled like a bridge ported rotary engine which is to say not at all. a JWT ECU is essential if you plan to run on pump gas. can be subject to thermal runaway. In the heat of battle you sometimes forget to check your gauges and boom! I myself blew about 3 engines like this back in my racing days. One famous Honda tuner (THE MOST FAMOUS Honda tuner) came up with some cams for the SR20.6:1 as the SR20 tends to run rich under these conditions. The temp goes up which triggers detonation which causes the knock sensor to tell the ECU to pull out timing which causes the temp to rise. the JWT cams are about the only ones that work well on the market. Anyway.JWT¶s ECU significantly improves transient throttle response making the car feel much more lively as well as providing more total advance at WOT. These are important factors for operating noise and valve train life. the JWT ECU is almost essential as this car is saddled with an annoying 109 mph speed limiter and a crappy 7100 rpm fuel cut. under racing conditions the SR20. The JWT ECU also leans out the A/F ratio at WOT to an optimal 12. Cam Shafts So far. the JWT ECU limits the amount of knock retard and for the most part. Unless you immediately drive slow for a few minutes the engine nukes. Premium fuel is required and 15 degrees of set timing is recommended.3 off your quarter mile time.

This cam was optimized to be the most radical grind for stock springs. I have yet to test them under the new IM240 smog dyno and plan to avoid that for as long as possible! The street cams have a reasonable idle with only a slightly detectable lope. This cam works exceedingly well giving my car more than 6 additional wheel hp over the older grind. the street grind is clearly superior. JWT has released a second generation street cam that has the same 260 degree duration of the previous grind with about 0. the effect upon pollution seems minimal. the less bottom end) and was good for a solid 12 hp. It put out 6ppm HC and 6 ppm CO at idle. JWT offers two different grinds. You must have high compression and headwork to run these cams.030" more lift and faster lobe profiles. Shell Black also got about 5 more hp over the older grind on his motor with a stock bottom end.shims under the hydraulic lash adjusters would be needed to maintain proper lash. This proves that clean does not mean slow. Also as an update. the street grind lost no bottom end power (the bigger the cam generally. Headwork and 11:1 compression are necessary for these. I have not tested the race grind on a high compression engine yet but will do so soon. My car has gotten about 3-5 more hp above 6500 rpm with these cams but they did cost significant bottom end hp. Although these cams are not CARB approved. The OBD-II system has remained happy. The race cams did not do too well on a stock engine loosing power except above 5500 rpm. With their ultra fast profile. Most companies that do regrinds do not supply an asymmetrical grind or correction shims! Other common aftermarket problems such as premature wear due to incompatible metals rubbing on each other are eliminated by using genuine Nissan cam billets. These will require special valve spring and titanium retainers. As an update. As cams are the thing that can upset the OBD-II and emission systems the most in general. I will be testing these cams soon and will report how they work . the engine was tested on a sniffer type smog machine. On a stock engine. these cams should give near VTEC like top end while retaining reasonable bottom end. The gains were recorded from 4000 rpm on up and their was no penalty in fuel economy. Ryan's 12 second turbo car has passed also. It also proves that the government should not concern itself with what's under the hood if what comes out of the tailpipe is clean. I have since returned to the regular street grind as this grind is much more torquey and fun to drive. JWT will also soon release a Pro-Series cam that will have about 264 degrees duration with a whooping 12mm of lift. a street grind and a race grind. To exploit these cams you will need high compression and headwork. The wear pattern on the rocker arms would not be optimal either due to their change in angularity. This is well under the limit (by almost 10 times!). In my testing. At 3000 rpm the output was 6 ppm HC and 11 ppm CO. JWT also has a 264 degree and a 268 degree cam for special order only. I have passed the new stringent California dyno test with my fully built motor with flying colors.

Another little trick is to use a 91-92 intake cam on a 95+ SE-R. I have heard through JWT that these cams have very poor idle characteristics and they require a custom ECU to start the car or idle.There are a few new promising cams that have come out since I last updated these pages. JUN parts are of very high quality and are very expensive. I myself do not have any experience with these. Although it is pretty inexpensive there are a few problems. these flanks keep the valve open a few thousands of an inch for about 10-20 extra degrees of crank rotation. Look for more testing to be done in the near future. He has not dynoed the Comp Cams yet but will soon. Dave told me the very mild is almost not any different from stock and is not worth the effort. Tomei These high quality cams are imported by Group 5. Thus these cams lope like a JWT race grind or worse even though they only have about 8 degrees more effective duration. These have shown much promise in Group 5's initial testing with a 12 hp gain to the wheels on Chris Pinthong's bolt-ons-only NX2000. For a classic 91-92 SE-R or NX you only use the exhaust cam as the intake cam has the same duration as the DET cam. almost 2X more than JWT cams. When used with the hydraulic lash adjusters in the SR20DE. Comp Cams has two grinds. JUN I only have anecdotal information on these cams. They are ground on new billets. a mild and a very mild. The first is the SR20DET "European" grind exhaust cam that Stillen and Nissan Motorsports carries. They are priced like JUN billets. Mechanical cams require gentle acceleration ramps on the cam lobe flank. Our IMSA race car had the exhaust cam and I could feel a bit more power above 5000 rpm. Supposedly these cams can give up to 6 more hp although I have never confirmed that. These are also a good quality billet cam but are pretty expensive. That engine idled like a fully built motor and I was surprised that we were never protested. JWT has had to do custom ECU's for people with JUN cams just so they could start their cars! They are for extreme top end only and are not very streetable. This makes the engine think it has a real big cam at idle. Tomei has a very good reputation in Japan like JUN. Dave Coleman of SCC has tested both the JWT and the Comp Cams and tells me that the Comp Cams feel very mild and do not feel as strong as the JWT cams. The SR20DET uses a mechanical cam with no hydraulic lash adjusters. All of these cams are of good quality and are pretty expensive. This cam has 16 degrees . They are a couple of other low buck alternative grinds available for the SR20 that work to varying degrees. Comp Cams are ground on what appears to be JUN billets. For the other years you can use both. Comp Cams Now a major maker of domestic car cams tries to get involved with the import market. I don¶t think this cam set could pass a smog test and they would most likely freak out the OBD-II system although I have never tested either.

JWT has gone through pains to grind their cams with the proper lobe center straight up. we had identical configurations except for his nitrous oxide kit. Ed Wolf and Kurt Sussman run these cams in their 200SX¶s. They are not and JWT does not have the time to argue with you. retarding. The best alternative timing was intake cam advanced 2 degrees. This cam idles fine in this application and should breeze by a smog check. but Searl (with the JWT street cams) has never lost a race to me. In 1994 there were two different intake cams. This is only the cam timing. I easily passed a California smog check with the 92 cam. and for the 95 intake cam. . In my testing with JWT Street cams. Duration Intake Opens Intake Closes Exhaust Closes Exhaust Opens 91-93 240 248 13 55 3 57 95-97 240 232 5 47 3 57 The open and close are relative to TDC (intake open and exhaust close) and BDC (intake close and exhaust open). lobe separation angle spreading and tightening with no gains worth keeping over the stock location. I would lose 5 on top and vice versa. Until early 98. which was turned off for most of our races. As far as performance. One of my SCC articles made mention of the alternative cams and JWT was flooded with calls from people wanting to argue that their cam set was not worth the money. the 91-93 cam will make a difference. the gains were inconclusive. If I got 2-3 more bottom end hp. This had a gain of about 3 hp in the midrange and 1-2 on bottom end with loss of only about 1-2 on top. I'll post the numbers here for the 91-93 intake cam. This setting might be good for street only driving or autocross where bottom end snap is important. [Editor's note from Kurt Sussman. and I'll post that when I have it in front of me rather than give out misinformation. Duration In. the lift is greater with the 91-93 intake cam as well (about 15%). roll-on or from a standing start. I tried about 25 different combinations of advancing. Since this comes up too often. the OBD-II system triggered a MIL light. The JWT cams have at least twice the potential power gain as the alternatives and whether you think it¶s worth the money is up to you as a consumer so don¶t waste their time on this point. Year Ex.more duration than the stocker and according to the guys at Nissan Motorsports gives 6 more hp.] Adjustable Cam Sprockets Turbo magazine has reported huge gains in Honda and Acura engines with the addition of adjustable cam gears and dyno tuning. When I deviated by more than 8 degrees of the factory lobe center. Do me a favor and DO NOT CALL JWT to debate with Jim or Clark whether these cams are better than their cams.

This results in a loss of bottom end power due to the lack of energy available in the moving gas column behind the valve. Headwork Headwork entails enlarging the intake and exhaust passages in a head to allow for more flow. Generally. The gas column has inertia which helps fill the cylinder. The roof is the outside radius of the bend going to and from the combustion chamber and by inertia. The other major area of headwork flow gain is in the valve job. Generally porting your head will cause some loss of bottom end power. The Stillen gears are more expensive. This would be a good place too start.040 off the deck and head. Both are about equally easy to use. especially at low RPM. The gears are cheap and it would make a good project for someone besides me to do. The object of good porting is to increase flow as much as possible while keeping the port volume as low as possible to maintain as high of a flow velocity as possible. Good head porters might be able to increase flow in the head up to 40 percent with no loss in bottom end but that is usually for American Iron heads which are terrible to start with. The JWT gears are safer by being impossible to slip or vibrate apart and are cheap. but are real trick looking and can be adjusted in very fine increments which could be an advantage. When you mill things the cam timing retards and you can use adjustable gears to correct it. Stock. Good headwork usually rounds the floor hump which is the transition from the valve seat to the floor of the port.When building my 11:1 motor the gears were very important. not just hogging the whole port out bigger. In fact anytime you mill your head and block like when doing a rebuild. If you are going to play with your cam timing I suggest that advancing the intake cam slightly in the 2-3 degree range will most likely have a good effect on bottom end and midrange with only a slight loss of top end.5 degree increments. Good headwork entails subtle reshaping. allowing me to correct the cam timing despite milling 0. The Stillen gears are two piece and are infinitely adjustable. JWT and Stillen make gears. A large percentage of gain . you should use adjustable timing gears to restore proper cam timing. good headwork leaves the floors of the port alone since most of the flow activity in a port is near the roof of the port. this is usually a sharp edge which causes non-laminar (turbulent) flow separation. The JWT gears are one piece and are adjustable in 2. Big ports have low velocity at low rpm. most of the air wants to flow up there. Modern Japanese engines don¶t usually see as big gains as their design is much better to begin with. Stillen claims good gains with the adjustable gears and stock cams but I haven¶t tested that myself. Gains of 10-20 percent are typical with a modern Japanese motor.

The best valve jobs are radius valve jobs which are a 3 or 5 angle valve job which is hand blended after cutting for a perfectly smooth transition. Most low price shops use stones. A butcher can make a big mess with stones. This shop¶s work could not be all bad because of their track record.can be in the valve job alone. It also makes it harder for carbon to stick. JWT requires no further introduction here! Beware of bad headwork.C. Gerolomy. My own personnel heads are done by DPR and Nissan Motorsports uses B. The purpose of these cuts is to help the air flow smoothly around the valve.060 wide for a multi valve engine like an SR20. especially when the valve is starting to open or close. A five angle valve job uses two extra cuts to make the transition even smoother. The main angles are the throat cut. The quality of a valve job is very important because it can contribute up to 50% of the flow gains that headwork will get you. This critical cut should be 0. Perhaps the most famous Honda builder who advertises very heavily and sponsors many 10 and 11 second Hondas does awful commercial headwork. lumpy uneven ports. Polishing the combustion chamber removes sharp edges that can glow red hot and trigger detonation. Unshrouding the valves is an operation where the edge of the combustion chamber is cut back by about 25% of the valve diameter so that the wall of the combustion chamber does not block the air going past the valve into the cylinder. The Serdi is very high precision which insures that all the valve angles and depths come out equal. Personally. but I have yet to see a good off-the-shelf head from them. The valve jobs were 1 angle that were cut so deep that the valve would have to rise about 0.040 to get out of the huge crater of a seat cut! Talk about shrouding! The valves were cut so deep that I am sure that the stem tips would have to be faced off to maintain proper valvetrain geometry IF that was done! Perhaps it was the new guy that did these heads but I have seen more than one of them. Another valve job trick is to place a 30 degree back cut above the 45 degree seating cut on the valve itself. Stones can give a good valve job but the stones must be dressed frequently and dial indicators must be used to insure that the seating surface remains concentric. The best valve jobs are done on a Serdi machine. Stones require a highly skilled person who is conscientious of doing a good job. Stuff like this is why many Honda owners complain that their cars end up slower than stock! . The intake port should be no smoother than 220 grit as maintaining some boundary layer turbulence is good for good bottom end. This turbulence makes the port virtually a little smaller at low flow velocities. Polishing should be limited to the combustion chamber and exhaust port. I have seen heads from that shop that have huge. The best valve jobs are called multi angle valve jobs with three or more distinct angles. Finally there is the top cut which is a 30 degree cut which blends the seating cut to the combustion chamber.040-0. which is a 60-70 degree cut that blends the port wall to the seating cut. The seating cut is a 45 degree cut which is the sealing surface for the valve. JWT and B.C. my belief is that the best head porters for the SR20 head are DPR (Dan Paramore Racing). Gerolomy. This helps the air get around the valve better especially at low lifts.

The stock ECU will not work. This annoying feature was added to the 95 and later low port head. To my knowledge DPR is the only company that puts this much detail work into the valves. this must be considered.My DPR head is a marvel of detail.5:1 to 10:1. My objective was to build a torquey engine with no loss of bottom end power. This reduces the likelihood of detonation and increases efficiency. Dan also reshaped the valves going way beyond the customary 30 degree back cut. Dan cut down the valve guide bosses where they intrude into the port and smoothed the hydraulic lash adjuster boss where it hangs down into the intake port. This feature found in all of DPR¶s stage 6 heads sets them apart from other tuners and is the reason that I chose them. so if you are doing pistons and stuff. This is supposed to increase flow. If you use the Nissan Motorsports flat top pistons the CR gets close to 11:1. Detonation can result in rapid death! JWT has a 50 shot program for 11:1 available. My DPR head resulted in a power increase of 10hp above 5000 rpm with no loss of power below that at all! That is testimony to Dan¶s skill. Dan welded up the edges of the chamber to increase the quench. Then it was ported by Dan Paramore. Finally Dan swirl polished the valves. This raises the CR on stock pistons form 9. you will have to retard the spark a little under NOS operation. I do not have much experience with big (100+HP) NOS units and real high compression but you must be careful! More ignition retard and richer fuel mixture are appropriate here. keeping an eye for increasing velocity rather than ultimate flow. The quench zone squishes the fuel air mixture to the center of the cylinder where it can be easily burned. If you are running JWT¶s NOS 100 shot ECU the program will have to be changed a little at this CR. If you are running NOS with someone else¶s kit. I think around 4 more degrees than you already retard for a 100 shot would be a good starting point although I have not tested that. The head is fully deburred to remove all sharp edges that can cut you during assembly and cause stress risers. To run 11:1on pump gas requires a special program from JWT. With the planned JWT forged big bore pistons the CR becomes 12:1 which is not streetable but the dome can be machined off to get 11:1. That way they would block less of the port's cross section area. 10:1 is fine on pump gas with the stock or off the shelf JWT ECU. Swirl polishing is polishing putting a hurricane looking pattern on the face of the valve. The bottom end felt better but the dyno . With 300ZX pistons the CR is close to 12:1 but it is easy to machine the domes off of these also. The main advantage of the DPR head is Dan¶s combustion chamber work. The valves had the stems turned down for better flow to about 6mm below the valve guide.040 of the combustion chamber near the edge of the cylinder. Quench is the area where the piston top comes within 0. The shaping considerably reduced the weight of the valves which should give more rpm headspace before valves float and the classic SR20 rocker arm flies off. Increasing quench does raise the compression ratio. The DPR head has a combustion chamber volume of 43cc¶s down from the stock volume of 46cc.

then call him! The Nissan Motorsports pistons are cast. Dan feels that this could result in 10-12 more hp for his latest creation. although I have not personally tested. Unfortunately the hydraulic lash adjuster must now hang into the intake port obstructing flow. Also the approach angle of the port no longer has such a straight shot into the cylinder either. The changes to the head were done to improve hydrocarbon emissions. Unfortunately for pollution's sake this long intake port necessitates having the fuel injectors farther back from the intake valve. This fuel is sucked into the engine in-between shifts and on overrun causing the mixture to spike rich. To eliminate this Nissan went to the current low port design with it¶s short intake port and close coupled injectors. George Roffe.did not register that so I can not claim that. Mike Palhs and Ben Benavides have all or some of these latest mods in their motors and we eagerly await dyno results. To substantiate my theory I have noted that when looking at Japanese Performance magazines. When revving the engine in neutral it was much more responsive to blipping the accelerator pedal. Please don¶t bother Ron at Nissan Motorsports by asking him if these pistons will work in your motor at xxxxxx miles! Get a FSM and a bore gauge and figure that out for yourself first. This causes the port walls to get wetted with fuel. Dan has also developed a new valve spring set and new titanium retainers as well as 1 mm oversize stainless valves. This means no real high boost levels (much above 14 psi) or huge . DPR has done some R&D on the high port head and is now able to extract about 25% more flow out of them. If Dan was to build an all out power head. up from the 10% increase seen with my head. Pistons There are a number of choices here. Nissan Motorsports also has the SR20DET piston which lowers the compression to 8. The high port head has long intake ports that bend smoothly around the hydraulic lash adjuster and shoot straight into the cylinder. I feel that their would be another 5 or so hp available at high rpm¶s but some low end power would be lost. As an update. This is ok for lower mileage motors but for high mileage motors you might need an oversize piston. I believe. These pistons are available in the standard Nissan size grades in standard bore. but they are a good quality cast piston and can take relatively high amounts of abuse. This should give about 5 more hp. If anyone has dyno results of a fully developed high port head please submit them to us so we can post them and compare them to project SE-R¶s low port head.3:1 for turbo motors. no Japanese tuner uses the low port head in their crazy SR20s. Dan could have made me some bigger valves but I did not want to pay for that! The high port classic head (91-93) is superior to the low port head (94-present). that the older high port head is good for about 5-10 more hp than the low port head. Nissan Motorsports has the European and Japanese spec pistons that are flat topped (the stockers have a slight dish) that raise the compression to 10:1.

I did it on a belt sander being careful to mike the rod several times along the way. It will have a slight dome to give 11:1 with a stock configuration head. as little as 0. This is due to two reasons. Be sure to put a slight chamfer on the pin bushing after you are done. The disadvantages of a forged piston are that it must run a larger piston to wall clearance than a cast piston. This can be easily done on a lathe or mill by any competent automotive machine shop.nitrous hits (certainly not more than 100 hp). Forged pistons can be made thinner and lighter due to their superior strength. lightweight tool steel piston pin. Mill the dome completely off making a flat top piston. Typically the number two ring land cracks on Nissan pistons. JWT will soon release a forged 87mm piston. denser part with less inclusions than the low tech pour in the mold method. A late model 300ZX VG30DE piston can be used with some modification to the connecting rod. Forging alloys are also ductile and strong in nature. even you hard core ones will not get to this point. On a DPR stage 6 head you must mill off the dome of the piston. strong cast piston and most list members. The bad thing is that cast pistons are more brittle and tend to crack ring lands under detonation.010 on either side to give the rod enough running clearance. Forged pistons are much tougher and can withstand detonation and stress much better than a cast piston. Forged pistons are made by smashing a heated billet of aluminum into a forming die with extreme force. This results in an compressed microstructure with good grain flow in critical areas such as the pin boss.0004"! Tight piston to wall clearances help with oil consumption issues. This piston is 87mm up from the stock 86mm which will give you 2045cc. The small end of the connecting rod must be ground down by 0. Usually this incident claims everything south of the intake manifold! Granted Nissan cast pistons are a high quality. Forged pistons can take detonation much better than cast pistons. All racing pistons to my knowledge are forged. the pin boss of the cast pistons can crack also. hydrocarbon emissions and piston ring life. The VG30 DE piston is a high quality cast piston. Forged pistons offer superior strength and toughness resisting fatigue and cracking. Forged pistons can also handle the strain of high boost and Nitrous. The VG30DE piston will give you 11:1 on a stock type combustion chamber. Cast pistons are made by pouring molten aluminum into a mold. A genuine Nissan cast piston is dimensionally more stable than a forged piston and can run extremely tight piston to wall clearances. Under lots of detonation. You might be wondering if forged or cast pistons are better. The JWT piston will use a high silicon alloy which allows tight piston to wall clearances and also has a super strong. The first is that . I used a deburring tool and polished the edge with some 400 grit wet dry paper and some honing oil. Nissan cast pistons are pressure die cast in an inert gas atmosphere. Pressure casting results in a stronger. The dome could be removed for a lower compression. nitrous or boost.

bringing the clearances down to 0. Old school forged pistons needed to run as much as 0. Amazingly the KA24 crank almost drops right into an SR20! JWT pro-series race cams will be installed. I would not recommend a low silicon piston for street use no matter what. By going to 11:1 CR with pistons. The are almost as quiet as stock pistons. The SR20 is blessed with a near bulletproof bottom end. the second is because of the violent nature of forging.forging alloys grow more with heat. As I have stated before. Balancing. If you are going to push the edge with turbo boost. my engine gained at least 10 hp across the board. Machining. Low silicon pistons are the ultimate in strength and toughness but require big clearance because of the metal¶s high expansion rate.5:1 cr. etc. from off idle to the fuel cut. My goal is 185 wheel or 215 crank hp with even more low end torque! Crank. Usually this has to do with the silicon content of the alloy. Ones on the low side can be fairly quiet. slightly dished pistons will be used for an 11. High compression was one of the best all around mods so far. I will sleeve the block so a 90mm bore will be possible. Due to recent advances in piston alloys and skirt design. Pistons that run on the high side of this scale will still rattle. My car gets a consistent 29-33 mpg despite spirited driving. High compression increases thermal efficiency and lowers the BSFE (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption). Manifolds.003".0015 or so.003". nitrous or are going to do some real racing. they should be as quiet as stockers. a JWT ECU is mandatory with 11:1 to prevent engine-destroying detonation regardless of piston type. Rods. Then a KA24 crank with a cut down snout and welded up thrust surfaces will be used to bore and stroke the entine to 2400cc. modern forged pistons can be run as tight as 0. High silicon pistons run tighter clearances and are slightly less ductile but are still much stronger than cast pistons. These pistons sound like a diesel engine. If the skirts are coated with a dry film lube like Swaintech poly moly. I may be trying to build a big gun engine within the next year or so. wear rings quickly and be a oil burner after not so many miles. rattling like crazy. These are pistons used in top fuel drag racers or the real nasty turbo Hondas. It would be noisy.009" piston to wall clearance. JWT pistons will be high silicon and can be run at 0. Bearings. Forged. forged pistons are the way to go. Coatings. The crank and rods are forged steel . More displacement can mask some of the bad characteristics of big camshafts like lack of low end power and lumpy idle. a forged piston has more internal stress and is not as dimensionally stable.006-0.

turbo boost and compression! We have run Ryan Besterwich's turbo car (formerly Searl's) as high as 20 psi of boost which pushed the car into the low 12's with a completely stock bottom end with no harm. So bring on the NOS. This feature is usually found in all out race motors. It is not likely that a local shotpeener can do as good of a job as the factory either. Shotpeening microforges the surface of the part making it stronger and harder while leaving the interior soft and ductile. The main caps are tied together with a stiff aluminum girdle which improves bottom end rigidity significantly. The stock parts can be used until the hp climbs well into the 200¶s. leaving a generous amount of metal around the bolt holes. Both the crank and rods are subjected to a severe shotpeening from the factory. The rod bolts are a beefy 9mm. a traditional weak area in connecting rods. If you reshotpeen the rods after polishing they will have to be resized and straitened as proper shotpeening distorts the parts. The same goes for the crank. I might say that no matter what you do to build a naturally aspirated motor. The only catastrophic engine failures that I know of (Tom Paule and Zak Nilsson) were the result of low oil levels with spun bearings. These design elements produce an engine that is nearly bulletproof. Clark Steppler of JWT has never seen a catastrophic failure that could be traced to the engines fault. I have screwed up 3 SR20¶s myself but that was the result of not watching the temperature gauge while racing IMSA and SCCA. . I estimate that his car is putting out over 400 hp with the stock bottom end! If detonation can be controlled the stock bottom end is pretty strong! If you are building a hot street SR20. Chuck Nibbana¶s super trick engine also mysteriously disassembled itself but that might have been because of improper clearancing. By doing the traditional beam polishing you will be removing the factory tough shotpeened surface. This step can improve the fatigue strength of a part by over 100% and is usually reserved for high end racing parts.000 miles on them with the factory honing marks still visible in the cylinder bores! The number of list members in the 100. either. Gross overheating was an understatement. It won¶t hurt to do these traditional race prep steps but it is probably not worth the effort on the SR20. The rod bolt registers are spot faced. if you keep an 8000 rpm or less redline. The crank features rolled fillets. If you do prep and re-shotpeen your rods make sure that the piston wall oil squirter hole does not get blocked or peened over. an uncommon strengthening operation used usually only for racing or heavy duty parts. I recommend leaving the rods alone. The same bottom end of our US model SR20DE also is used for the turbo SR20DET so we have a lot of headspace before we start to challenge the strength of the bottom end. you don¶t need special rods. His car has over 80k miles on it and is still going strong.000 Mile Club is a testament to the durability of the SR20.unlike the typical cast iron that most American motors run. In fact. This hole sprays oil on the thrust side of the cylinder helping with lubrication and keeping the engine quiet. I have seen motors with over 100.

When buying bearings. JWT has pioneered the use of plateau honing on the SR20 and has the process figured out for a smooth bore surface that will still allow the rings to seat. I believe these rods are machined from 4140 billet.I do not have any personal experience with the well-publicized-by-Turbo-magazine. JWT can get Crower rods. Carrillo makes excellent rods also but they would be a custom application and take 6-12 weeks for delivery. better sealing. plateau honing after the dimensional honing reduces the RMS of the surface for lower friction. A torque plate simulates the stress of a cylinder head being bolted on your block. You don¶t want to remove so much material that the crank dimensions change. at least use plastigauge to make sure that you are in the ball park. it is possible to have an . For extreme use in killer turbo motors running near 20 psi of boost or for those of you running 100+hp NOS units. the bores will remain straight when the head is bolted on. I do have plenty of good personnel experience with shotpeening solving many parts breakage problems. the next tighter bearing size can be used other than the number that is stamped on each journal of the block and crank. These rods are a little lighter than Crower and seem just as high quality. You can have a local machine shop do it using the lightest grit of polishing paper belt. This is a high precision machining center that makes the honing of a good round bore almost idiot proof. When properly machined with a torque plate and plateau honed. Clark Steppler of JWT has told me (and I have also observed) that if an engine has any kind of mileage on it. it is better to use a torque plate. With a block that was machined with a torque plate. Recently I have had very good luck with cryogenic treatment preventing breakage of drivetrain parts with high powered SE-Rs and I am currently building a VG30DE motor using cryogenic treating extensively. Since today¶s low tension rings require a smooth surface to seat properly. Usually the block will distort and the cylinders will become out of round accelerating wear and reducing the effectiveness of the ring seal when the head is bolted on. I recommend running bearing clearances in the middle of factory spec on a typical street motor. The factory Nissan bearings are strong and durable. For this reason the main caps should also be bolted on and torqued when the block is being machined. These racing rods do not have the oil squirter hole in them which could result in slightly shorter life of rings and pistons. When boring or honing a block. The rods and pistons should be balance to within ½ gram and the crank dynamically balanced. Granted this is a small difference but is important if you want to build a good motor. just reduce the RMS of the surface by knocking off the peaks of the machining marks. Clearances on an all out racing motor can be set on the looser side of factory. less oil consumption and longer life. I am using Cunninham rods in another engine. Metalax treatment process but have heard good things about them. If you don¶t have access to these . Remember to mike and bore gauge all the journals to confirm proper dimensions before assembling. racing rods may be in order. I have found that Nissans are generally within 1 gram from the factory! A typical American car is usually off by as much as 5-12 grams! I like to polish the journal surface of the crank. Boring and honing should be done on a Sunnan CK10 machine.

Piston coolers are oil jets that squirt oil onto the underside of your piston dome to help lubricate the piston pin and to help keep the piston cool. I also use Swain poly moly dry film lubricant piston skirt coating. This Japan market hyper motor makes 200 hp from only 1600cc! Since Nissan feels that this 11. When building a killer motor it is a good idea to replace the main cap bolts with the ones found in the SR20DET. Where most other companies have a one layer coating. JWT is most likely the best company to machine your SR20 block. This helps protect them from detonation and Nitrous abuse. I am a believer in special coatings. Talk to Clark Steppler at JWT for machining. Poly Moly also tightens your piston to wall clearance by 0. it is not to good to insulate them. The piston coolers have a spring loaded valve so they only open at higher rpms to maintain good oil pressure at idle and in bumper to bumper traffic.0014 or so inches so you may have to compensate in your bore machining for this added clearance. The guys at Nissan Motorsports tell me that poly moly significantly cuts piston and cylinder wall wear. This is better than the teflon that most other companies use because teflon distorts and creeps under load. One of my friends had a 20 degree drop in water . This is a severe duty 3 layer thermal barrier that reduces heat transfer by about 25%. Unlike the other to-be-named coating houses that use off the shelf coatings. As aluminum starts to lose strength above 350 degrees. The SR20DET uses piston coolers as does the 11:1 cr SR16VVL N-1 spec motor. a Swain coating might have 3-4 different functional layers.6:1 motor needs piston coolers it is probably a good idea to put them in yours. These are about 20% stronger. Since the pistons cool themselves by conducting heat through the skirts. Next time I go through the motor I will probably coat the valves and combustion chamber to protect them also. JWT can also machine your block for SR20DET piston coolers. That is 4 ten thousandths of an inch! My engine does not burn oil at all even with water-thin 5w30 Mobil 1 oil. Teflon is also a heat insulator. In my motor there was a noticeable drop in water temp once the coolers were installed. Nissan Motorsports stocks these.0004 inches. Poly Moly can help tame the clatter of forged pistons. At the advice of Nissan Motorsports I used Swain tech coatings.engine that leaks down at 2% or less! [Editor's note: Nissan specifies that up to 10% is acceptable. most SR20DEs leak down at close to 5% (source: senior mechanic at Falore Nissan)] JWT is the only company in North America to my knowledge that has a torque plate for an SR20 engine. By keeping the heat out of the pistons. Coatings are great for adding to reliability or to help control factors such as heat so special tolerances can be used. I use Swain tech gold thermal barrier coating on my pistons. To my knowledge JWT is the only company that has the fixturing to machine a block for these piston coolers. Swain develops their own in-house coatings that are much more sophisticated. I can run an amazingly tight piston to wall clearance of 0. piston coolers can help quiet a bit. This coating uses molybdenum disulfide and tungsten disulfide for a dimensionally stable heat conducting matrix.

Past the power peak until the fuel cut. With these excellent results we eagerly bolted on the manifold. If anyone else wants to do it. it was thought that the manifold improved throttle response and top end power. I will be using Swain coatings on just about everything from the bearings to the undersides of the pistons. By a SOTP evaluation. When running computer simulations with Dynomation¶s software. heat dissipation coatings. let me know! Extrude Honing Extrude Honing is a process where an abrasive putty is forced through your manifold or other difficult to port areas at a high velocity. We tried Extrude Honing the manifold on project SE-R. On the flow bench the Extrude Honed manifold flowed a whopping 15% more than the stock manifold. removing material. post '93 head.temperature. gains of up to 15 hp above 5000 rpm with losses of only 2-3 hp below 3000 were noted. the motor gained 3-4 hp. The end results were mixed. Runner to runner flow which varied by about 13-14 cfm per runner stock had the variance cut down to less than 1 cfm per runner. When the manifold was dynoed. The 196hp SR20VVL also has a short runner manifold. This is the shorter runner manifold for the low port. like in the middle of your very long runner manifold or deep inside your manifold's plenum chamber. Although these gains seem . This seems to indicate that Nissan sacrificed lots of top end power to gain a little below when designing the manifold. as the folks at Extrude Hone said it would. On my hopefully 700 hp Twin Turbo Z motor. Although the Extrude Honing performed extremely well on the flow bench. I noted that Nismo¶s race manifold as well as GReddy and JUN¶s race manifolds have short runners. As these manifolds are designed for the RWD S13 and S14 chassis. the dyno tested power increase was minimal. Extrude honing is also very good at equalizing manifold runner flow. wear resisting coatings and stealth coatings that are not detectable! List member Kurt Sussman is planning to build. This cutting mechanism is very good at producing runners that flow equally. Extrude Honing is great because it can port areas where it is otherwise impossible to do so. he just had a baby girl which should postpone his manifold development for quite a while. Yeah Kurt! We will be posting the results of this manifold as Kurt get around to it. Smaller more restrictive areas in the head act like a venturi so the putty flows faster there. test and manufacture a short runner intake manifold. 300 rpm faster turbo spool. I believe that these coatings are like a cheap insurance policy. Faster flow equals more cutting action and thus the Extrude Honing process by nature removes material where it's needed the most. and 300 degree higher EGT's with a fully Swain coated motor. However. Swain also makes slippery flow improving coatings. the results were disappointing as the motor only gained one peak hp while losing one hp below 5000 rpm. Kurt took it upon himself to design one for the FWD cars.

compression. Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulleys Being skeptical of the claims for big horsepower on the Unorthodox Racing web site. though we may have to wait until his baby graduates from high school! Since the classic or pre-94 manifolds have longer. We suggest that Unorthodox add marks in 5-degree increments to the pulley instead of just a TDC mark. To install the pulleys. improving cylinder filling through passive supercharging. more curved runners. you might consider it. and you are interested in getting every bit of power. It was. Unfortunately the TDC mark is the only one on the pulley so timing the car without a dial back timing light is impossible. if you have an engine with just the easy bolt on parts. exposing the front of the engine. they have greater internal scrubbing losses due to the increased surface friction of the longer. This shows that increasing the intake manifold's flow does not help too much even on a fairly modified SR20. the pulleys were obviously CNC machined from billet aluminum and anodized a nice shade of blue. An air impact was then used to remove the main pulley nut. headwork. we removed the passenger side wheel and wheelwell splash shield. they were repeatable through 4 back to back dyno pulls. Our computer simulation still indicates that a shorter runner manifold will help quite a bit. We measured the TDC mark in relation to the keyway to make sure that the TDC mark was right on. They were significantly lighter than the stock bits. etc. This is because the shorter runners will resonate at a higher rpm. deeper boundary layer (the still air near the runner's walls that does not contribute to flow).small. the Extrude Hone process most likely will not help much if at all. So in short. If you have a killer high revving NA or high boosting turbo motor it might definitely be a plus. Joe at Unorthodox told us via a phone conversation that he felt that the pulleys would be good for about 5 hp on the SE-R. we ordered up a set of their underdrive pulleys to do some extensive dyno testing. When received. Perhaps this process would be more beneficial on one of these manifolds. Two 6mm bolts were used in the existing holes to . If your engine is really built with cams. but it would be a finishing touch type of modification. We are eagerly waiting for Kurt Sussman's short runner manifold. Not a big deal for us as we have one of these timing lights but possibly a problem for the average joe. This resonance tuning does not rely on pure steady state flow gains like extrude honing does. Obviously the manifold is not a major choke point in the induction system. The 10mm bolts holding the water pump pulley were removed with the belt still in place to prevent them from spinning. On an engine with race cams the gains would be larger as our manifold seemed to do the best at the very top end.

The battery output stayed above 12 volts with all electrical accessories going full blast. The engine felt more eager to rev and there was less drag when the AC compressor kicked on. Bando makes genuine Nissan belts so I figured the quality of this replacement belt should be good. It does not rely on a counterweight on the front pulley and flywheel to give dynamic balance like Ford or Chevy engines. I think that under racing conditions the car may even run cooler as the stock water pump is prone to cavitate at over 6500 rpm. including my aftermarket PIAA lights and 200-watt stereo cranking.9 volts but I seriously don¶t think that is a realistic estimate of potential power demand. After all this testing I conclude that the pulleys are at least safe. my SOTP estimate of power gain was small. When I made the electric windows go up and down at the same time the voltage dipped to 11. With the underdrive pulley in place there actually seems to be less idle and high rpm vibration. I tried to make the car overheat in bumper to bumper traffic on an 80-degree day. We used a Bando p/n 6PK-1000 belt to replace the stock belt which was purchased from World Pack. I don't really recommend doing this as it is real easy to punch a hole in the front cover this way. very humid. unlike most domestic motors. engine at idle with every single light on. a nearby parts house (1800-733-2277). Use a puller or back up the bolts with a peice of thick metal to prevent damaging the cover. After running the car. The AC was perhaps a little less effective but it was hardly noticeable. The SR20. The stock belt for the water pump and AC compressor could be retained but a shorter belt was necessary for the alternatorand power steering. Amazingly the pulleys were good for a maximum of 6 hp over stock! The increase was about 2 hp at 2000 . Highly modified domestic motors are internally balanced at a great cost but us Nissan owners get that stock! I believe that the damper on the stock pulley is mostly to damp out accessory drive noise. fogging up the windows while making out with your girl (or guy) stereo blaring and get a bug to roll the windows up and down to the beat of the music while waiting for the tow truck! If you do this frequently you may discharge your battery with the underdrive pulleys.lever the stock main pulley off the crank. The coolant temp never went above 94 degrees C. I could not detect any increase in accessory drive noise but my car is sort of loud. plus high speed cruising and free revving the motor to 7000 rpm for a few minutes. I also did some violent slalom maneuvers to test the power steering. I plugged in a CONSULT to test for charging function and overheating. To get enough clearance to completely remove the main pulley. foggy rain storm at night while broken down on the side of the road. The next step was the acid test on DPR¶s Dynojet chassis dynamometer. about 1-2 hp. Some list members have been concerned that the underdrive pulleys lack of an inertia ring as the one in the stock pulley could have some negative effects on motor life. There was no sign of power steering pump up. The new pulleys were installed in reverse order. I believe that this is not true. the passenger side motor mount had to be loosened and a jack placed under the motor to lift it slightly shifting the engine enough to get the pulley off. has a fully counterweighted crankshaft and is internally balanced. I don¶t think you would be caught in a very hot.

I don't think bigger or bored out MAF's like Stillen sells are worth it unless you are turboed or your engines are modified to the point where they can pull more than 5. All three runs yielded the same results. I have tested these and found perhaps a small 1 hp gain over the old 2 piece set. we have yet to see any increase in wear on the motor. Being a skeptic we ran the car three more times to see if it was a fluke. This is the point where the stock MAF is maxed out. Perhaps with more mods. Big Bore Throttle Bodies and MAFs I recently tested the RC engineering big bore throttle body. I did not gain any power except for about 2-3 below 4000 rpm! My theory on this is that the larger hole helped the CAI resonate better at lower rpm. . My engine is getting close to the point where it can top out the stock ECU but not quite yet. We have also tested the pulleys extensively on the racetrack at temperatures over 100 degrees and found that the pulleys significantly reduce water pump cavitation induced overheating. Unorthodox has improved the pulleys by adding a steel sleeve under the front main seal for longer life and is now adding all of the correct timing marks. Taking our suggestions. Despite thrashing on a road course which is much harder on a motor than drag racing. Even through the Maxima unit is nearly 45mm larger than the tiny stock MAF. This throttle body is 64mm vs the stock 60mm. The new product is even better. The smooth gradual increase of power deceptively made the SOTP feel less. on the Dyno no power increase at all was registered just as I had previously predicted. I also tested using a big 80mm MAF from a late model Maxima using a custom programmed JWT ECU.rpm rising in proportion with rpm to 5 hp at the power peak to 6 hp at the rev limit. the engine will need the additional flow and the TB will actually help. Shell Black has found a larger about 2-3 hp gain in his testing. Surprisingly I can feel a larger SOTP difference with the 4 piece set. Not so for the underdrive pulleys. Unorthodox has introduced a 4 piece pulley set that includes the power steering and alternator pulleys also. However. much like OEM.15 volts on the airflow meter. At $189 list price these pulleys get our bang for the buck award! There are often group deals for less on the se-r mailing list. My theory is that it improved throttle response so much that the engine seemed a lot more powerful. Although it felt like it was giving a lot more power in my SOTP evaluation. Normally most mods put a hump somewhere in the powerband that is easy to feel. The throttle body casting is honed to tight tolerances so a good idle can be maintained and the throttle shaft is aerodynamically profiled with streamlined button head bolts that are staked. I think this mod is worth while just because of the vast improvement in feel and response. Their seamless addition of power was very hard to feel. The workmanship and attention to detail are superb.

My opinion is yet another one but at least it is backed by years of racing experience and recent dyno testing. For running extreme boost (more than 18 psi). Heat Range of plugs Sparkplugs come in many heat ranges. This can quickly destroy an engine. Platinum is a noble metal with a high melting point. it is a cold plug. In my opinion the best spark plugs for the SR20DE and DET are the stock Genuine Nissan NGK platinum plugs. To prevent this a cold heat range plug is needed. Stock Nissan plugs have platinum in both the center and ground electrode for really long life. That is why a platinum plug lasts about 3 times longer than a conventional plug. If the porcelain insulator is short. This is so the plug can be matched to the type of use an engine receives. This is the middle heat range for the NGK plugs. For high speed racing at high rpm. This is because a cold plugs short center electrode has a short path to conduct heat out of the electrode. and shut off. short hop driving. I prefer for most engines. Being almost inert. even the stock ones. I wince when I think that many are squeezing nos or pumping turbo boost with the stock hot plugs. Originally when the SR20 was first introduced. For this type of driving a hot plug is needed. turbocharged or NOS powered cars. When used in the plug's electrode it resists erosion much better than steel. A hotter plug has a longer path and dissipates heat more slowly. For low speed. This plug will be . to run the PFR6B-11 spark plug. Most listmembers seem like they are unaware of matching the spark plugs heat range to the type of driving that they do. the cars came with PFR6B11s but they were fouling out during port storage where the cars are continuously being started. which are one heat range warmer. it is highly corrosion resistant even at high temperatures. moved a few feet. a big shot of nos (more than 100 hp) or really high compression (more than 11:1) the cold PFR7B-11 plug is necessary. If it is long and extends deeply into the steel shell of the plug. You can tell a cold plug from a hot plug by looking at the center electrode¶s insulator. Most aftermarket platinum plugs only use platinum in the center electrode. SR20 powered cars come with PFR5B-11 plugs. most appropriate sparkplug for our cars. the plugs electrodes must stay hot enough to burn away and self-clean fouling carbon deposits. The PFR6B-11 works well on high compression. the plug can become too hot and glow like a diesel glowplug causing pre-ignition and detonation. The countermeasure to high warranty on low mile sparkplugs was the switch to the hot plug. I like a decent platinum plug. The length of the insulator of the center electrode determines a plugs heat range. it is a hot plug.Spark plugs and Ignition systems There is a lot of controversy on the list on what is the best.

When the coil booster was unplugged the car would barely run so I guess it works well. The Crane Hi 6 has gotten rave reviews also but they seem prone to burning out (two of my friends have been stranded because of a burnt out Hi-6). If you are running flat top or domed pistons. The theory behind extended tip plugs is that the extended tip puts the electrodes in a more turbulent section of the combustion chamber. The smaller gap loses a little power but this trick can tide you over until you can get that snazzy turkey roaster ignition. It has allowed my car to run smoothly even with the plug's electrodes completely burned off. thus losing power. These ignitions are very powerful. I have a Nology coil booster on my SE-R. capable of firing the spark plugs for over 30 degrees of crank rotation. like the cap. Make sure that the tip of the plug that you are buying does not extend further than the stock plug¶s tip. I believe I have found the limits of the stock SR20 ignition system. Just the thing for high cylinder pressures. Jacobs ignitions are crap. I have also found that shallow included angle chambers for the most part do not like extended tip plugs. This makes for a quick burning.005" increments until the misfire stops. I prefer an MSD 6A or better unit. this is even more critical as the tip of the plug is even closer to the piston dome. Go down in 0. . I have never needed an MSD on an SR20 yet but I have had very good luck with them on other cars including racecars.045". The SR20 has a powerful stock ignition that can fire through turbo boost and NOS. thus helping them stay clean of fouling. Many aftermarket plugs are extended tip. In the SR20 an extended tip plug puts the electrode too close to the piston dome screwing up flame propagation. I would not bother with them. If you experience misfire under squeeze or high boost (and the rest of the ignition system is in good condition. The SR20 has a shallow included angle of the combustion chamber. The Nology coil booster is the only easy way to hop up a 200SX¶s ignition as the coil is an integral part of the distributor. This is important to consider if your are deviating from the Stock Nissan recommendation. detonation-resistant chamber. Higher cylinder pressures cause by big NOS or high boost requires smaller gaps with the stock ignition. It seemed kind of hokey but I installed it. On Ryan's turbo car. Gap the plugs at 0. rotor and wires) you can close the gap down to as small as 0. When experimenting with extended tip plugs I have found that the engine loses about 3-4 hp across the board. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------High Power Ignition I haven¶t run across a SE-R that has needed this yet but I suppose that over a 100 shot of nos or 18 psi of boost might need a high power ignition.020" to prevent it.on the edge of fouling during regular day to day driving so it can be considered a race only plug.

Even this was only good to 14 psi before misfire started again. I use either stock or NGK wires. MSD makes an external coil conversion kit for Hondas that also works on our cars. -MM ] Bosch Plus 4 Although I have not had any experience with them. On 95 and later cars with an internal coil. These plugs will absolutely not work for long in high compression. high rpm. My personal opinion is that these are pretty bad for most stock motors. So on really built cars I now recommend the MSD 6A or SCI ignition system. Go to Bosch Platinum vs. These plugs have an unusual design with 4 ground electrodes much like a rotary engine plug. Chris Pinthong and Dave Coleman have tested them and found them to work well. Just be sure to cut the primary conductor from the stock coil and fill the resulting hole in the distributor cap up with silicone or some of the extra power from your new coil will be wasted. Some listmembers have recently dyno tested these plugs on stockish engines and have found them to be OK.when exceeding 10 psi of boost we developed a misfire which required that the plug gap be closed to 0. In my experience they work OK for a few thousand miles then start to idle roughly and on modified engines misfire under load. The are marginal on a stock engine. It amazes me that an OEM level supplier like Bosch can make pieces of crap like these. these ignition systems don't seem to work too well with Nology wires. boosted or NOS applications. Sparks like to propagate from sharp edges so I think they have a hard time getting out of this hole. The VG30 in my Pathfinder will barely run with these plugs. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------OTHER PLUGS Bosch Platinum I hate these plugs. making the spark shoot out of a hole. [ Ed note: This is Mike's opinion of these plugs based on his personal experience. On my 11:1 compression NA motor misfire was happening until I closed the gap also. This included some used plugs that were at least 20k miles old. Kit Wetzler also experienced poor driveabilty in his NX2000 with these plugs. What happens is that this electrode quickly erodes so it ends up being a depression in the porcelain. They have a weird center electrode that is flush with the insulating porcelain. NGK Platinum Spark Plugs for a comparison of the two. As a note.020". Hopefully they are much better than the . These high power ignitions will not give you much more power but they will eliminate frustrating misfire and help starting and low speed driveabilty.

only about 400 have been bone stock .93 mph. Split Fire I call these Miss Fires. Again.39 seconds. Runs were about a month apart at the same track. I don¶t have any experience with these. increased trap speed by 2. The electrode material is still steel so I don¶t think that these are much of an advantage. Runs were a year apart. Header -. I think that these brands have some premium labels that have unique electrode configurations to have more sharp edges for spark propagation. Pat Griffith. The HKS (catback.regular Bosch Platinum. Champion. Reader's Contributions Here are some suggestions from one of the original 14 second club members. The main thing to remember with SR20s is that the plug¶s tip length must be close to the stock plugs or power loss will result and the heat range must be appropriate for the intended end use or engine-destroying detonation may occur. Beru These plugs have a silver conductor for the center electrode. Sept. both runs were at the same track. Since silver conducts electricity better than steel or copper it is reportedly better. They have an extended tip that the SR20 hates.lowered 1/4-mile time by . Some list members have had good luck with these. These are how some common bolt on parts have affected 1/4 mile times on his car Pat writes: JWT ECU -.lowered 1/4-mile time by . but they were probably similar (April vs.I can't compare it to stock (out of 60K miles I've put on SE-Rs. NGK V plugs These work fine. Be sure that the tip does not extend further than the stock plugs. but at the same track with the same temps (about 40 degrees). but I can compare it to the Stillen muffler. Make sure the heat range and tip length is appropriate for our motors. of course) lowered 1/4-mile time by a tenth.79 mph.). Not sure of the temps. HKS exhaust -. increased trap speed by almost 1. The dual ground electrodes may have some merit by creating more sharp edges for spark propagation but this is moot when the extended tip causes hp loss. Very noticeable top-end improvement. AC and others.08 mph. just change them frequently. if not. . a bit *warmer* on the run with the HKS. increased trap speed by .26 seconds.

we gave it a real test by testing it against the proven Jim Wolf Technology POP Charger system. TESTING: The cars that we used for testing were a 92 SE-R with headers and 2 inch exhaust and a 94 SE-R with headers and 2 inch exhaust. the same principals apply to Hondas. Instead of testing the cold air system against a stock intake. I believe it's the manifold pressure. The Techtom allowed me to measure the voltage at the Mass Air Flow sensor. The more air I get. the higher the voltage reading I should receive on the MAF. The POP charger utilizes a large K&N cone filter with a 7 inch base and nice billet velocity stack.-------------------------------------------------------------------------------Justin Choi Writes: I had a custom cold air intake made for my 92 Nissan SE-R a while ago and got my hands on a Techtom to test it out.34 92 SE-R with Akimoto Funnel Ram II filter connected to the cold air intake pipe: 4. 65MPH) Outside Temp ~ 87 degrees 92 SE-R with Akimoto Funnel Ram II filter connected to the cold air intake pipe: 4. zero MPH) Outside Temp ~ 87 degrees 94 SE-R with JWT POP Charger: 4.28 Stationary (no-load. a huge difference! .47 Needless to say. The Techtom allows testing of the car out on the road in real-world conditions. This makes underhood temps higher than normal and may skew the results in favor of the cold air systems.34 92 SE-R with Akimoto Funnel Ram II filter with dryer hose bringing in outside air: 4.28 Red Line up to Third Gear (Approx.34 92 SE-R with Akimoto Funnel Ram II filter with dryer hose bringing in outside air: 4. The ECU then adjusts the fuel accordingly. Voltage readings at the MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor are used by the ECU to find out how much air is coming through the intake.45 92 SE-R with new K&N filter connected to the cold air intake pipe: 4. Although the testing was done on Nissan cars. zero MPH) Outside Temp ~ 75 degrees 94 SE-R with JWT POP Charger: 4. There are some issues regarding Dyno-testing of cold air systems since the car is stationary.34 Red Line up to Second Gear (Approx. RESULTS: Stationary (no-load. Honda's don't have a MAF but use a different reading to do the same thing. 95-98 MPH) Outside Temp ~ 75 degrees 94 SE-R with JWT POP Charger: 4.

not a disadvantage. I've tried various home-made setups that bring in cold air through plastic pipes or dryer hoses and none of these have tested to show any improvement whatsoever. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------Justin Choi Writes: As far as the other filters are concerned: I've tried the: Akimoto Funnel Ram II with velocity stack . Well. A major portion of the gain is from extended the pipe length of your intake and those homemade setups don't provide that. However. It's a nice deep growl so to most.] CONCLUSIONS: The recent Sport Compact Car article on intakes tries to leave the impression that their tests aren't 100% conclusive. I have also seen many cases where horsepower was lost after the addition of a standard underhood air intake system. I can tell you without a doubt that the cold air setups offer more horsepower than standard K&N and intake stack setups on most cars. most of those with cold air intakes drive in the rain and hit puddles with no problems at all and many setups can be changed to allow the filter to sit in the engine bay. either from the aftermarket or whatever home-made concoction you can come up with.The Project 200SX SE-R in Sport Compact got the same intake done at the same place (Place Racing in Covina) and he dynoed it at an 8 horsepower increase. they have advertisers to worry about and aren't willing to make a definitive recommendation. Mike Kojima. DISADVANTAGES: Having the filter in the bumper area can make installing cold air setups a pain in comparison to a standard air intake system. Also. louder than it would be with a standard intake. Several people hit some large puddles but didn't have any problems. it's an advantage. the writer and owner of the 200SX SE-R concluded that it was the best bang-for-the-buck item available. to extend your intake pipe and get your filter away from the heat of the engine but not too close to the ground and you should be in good shape. we haven't heard of any problems from hydro lock. Also. He got an average of 5-6 horsepower at every RPM above 3000 over his old JWT Intake with no loss of HP under 3000. a cold air system involves more piping and this means that your intake will be very loud under heavy throttle. [Editoral note: So far with this year's rain in CA. From my personal experience on many different Hondas and Nissans. if you hit a flooded street you'll end up ruining your motor. Get some setup. I do know of one case where that did happen and it was in "sunny" Southern California during our one week rainy season.

(John at Hotshot did tell me to oil it). Then. I've heard stories of people getting little bits of foam in the engine with the foam filters (Dynamic Autosports). John at Hotshot told me of a story where the plastic funnel of the Akimoto Funnel Ram broke off during full throttle operation and jammed itself in the throttle body causing a major accident. I like the JWT setup the best. cams. I wish I had something objective to contribute to the list other than the fact that I don't think it's worth the time or the effort to try the foam filter. Obviously. they added the Unifilter (foam) and got another 2 horsepower! So they say! This was on an Integra with headwork. They removed the K&N filter and the dyno showed a 5-7 horsepower increase. It didn't make any SOTP difference and I did a lot of research and found that: Banzai claims that foam doesn't flow as good as a gauze filter but they flow better than K&N when dirty. HKS claims that their filter just flows better. JG had an Integra that wasn't producing as much on the Dyno as it should have.Weapon R foam filter Weapon R foam filter with velocity stack Baby K&N Medium K&N Large K&N JWT Pop Charger I only have SOTP [Editor: that's Seat Of The Pants] impressions for most of them. The foam filters are hard as hell to oil since they don't seem to absorb the filter oil very well. and all the bolt-ons. John at Hotshot swears by the foam filters. The bottom line is that the K&N is considered numero uno by majority of the people out there. K&N claims that the gauze flows better and especially flows better when dirty. Why not go with #1? .