The problem when the dryer runs but doesn't heat is usually caused by a failed high-limit thermostat

and a blown thermal cut-off both located on the heater housing. Verify this by bypassing both parts for troubleshooting purposes then running the dryer. Disconnect power then remove the screws attaching the bottom front panel to the bottom flange of the cabinet. Slide the panel down and off the cabinet to access the heater housing.

Remove the hex-head screw from the heater shield and remove the shield.

Let us know should you need further advice ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Once you have located the heating coil. if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty. You should read continuity across the terminals. Check for continuity you should have none with door open. the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer. Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum.as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat. (Should have/show continuity) . remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil. If this has happened to your dryer.Disconnect the red wire from the thermal cut-off and the red/white stripe wire from the heater. Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer. you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached. Reconnect power then start the dryer. at the dryer. Connect the red wire disconnected from the thermal cut-off to the heater terminal where the red/white stripe wire is disconnected from. burns and the connection breaks. Do not use the dryer with those parts bypassed due to high risk of fire hazards. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Check the Door Switch If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective. then: You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. and should have a reading when closed. Replace both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat and it should solve the heating problem. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. The problem is indeed with the two bypassed components if the dryer heats up. If the heating coil is ok. if you are then: Check your Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house. If not replace the door switch.

and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system. It's located on the blower housing. (Thermal fuse. replace it) DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website: davesrepair. that new element can burn out very quickly.htm . Right after replacing a dryer element. This could cause a FIRE.If it overheats the dryer will not operate.If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor. if no continuity. It cannot be reset. If the vent's clogged. always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat'. as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.

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