Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Dubrovnik
Summer 2017

Konavle
Ancient Culture and
Gastronomic Paradise

Croatian Inventors
N°22 - complimentary copy
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Great Minds from a
Small Country
Contents

E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S

What’s On 7
You won’t be bored

Croatian Inventors 16
How they influeneced the world

Restaurants 19
Spicing things up

Local Flavour 34
Treat yourself or be treated

Coffee & Cakes 38
Giving you a slice of the pie

Nightlife 40
Are you ready to party

Sightseeing 46
Stroll patiently along the banks of the green and clean Neretva River
Discover what we’ve uncovered and catch mullets with locals in a competition called Cipolijada. Read
more on a page 10
Konavle Region 55
Your escape from the crowds
Leisure 65
Dubrovnik Surroundings 57 Recreational pleasure
Out and about
Shopping 67
Take home the best memories and souvenirs
Where to stay 71
Accommodation categories in Croatia

Arrival & Getting Around 72
Lost? Help is at hand

Dubrovnik Basics 75
The A-Z of Dubrovnik
Maps & Street Register
Street Register 76
City Centre Map 77
City Map 78
Dubrovnik County Map 80

Beat the tourist crowds and learn more about the shortcuts locals use
daily...

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 5
Foreword What’s On
Dear travellers,
Publisher
Do you know how good you have it right here in Du- Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb
brovnik? You can drop off your luggage, grab your towels, ISSN 1846-0852
and head for the sea as soon as you arrive, you can sip cof-
fee or drink cocktails under palm trees all day long. Yet, this Company Office & Accounts
Višnja Arambašić
wasn’t the case for visitors back in the 15th century; due to Dubrovnik In Your Pocket, Lastovska 42, Zagreb, Croatia
the building of the Minčeta tower where there was a short Tel. (+385-1) 779 12 28
supply of stone it was decreed that every visitor to the city croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com
had to bring a stone in accordance with their body’s con- Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.
stitution. Imagine that! Thankfully, we won’t have you do as Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedjelja
much; if you build anything, it will probably be some nifty Editorial
sandcastles at most. Editor Višnja Arambašić
On that note we welcome you to the Jewel of the Adriatic, Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Nikola
Badovinac, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Andrea Pisac
the fortified city of Dubrovnik, one of the ten best pre- Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac
served medieval walled cities in the world. Summer is peak Assistant Editor Blanka Valić
season with many tourists flocking to see the city, and we Research & Community Manager Tea Bikić
at IYP are here to help your stay be better than OK! Design Ivana Mihoković
Our feature summer edition is compact with a lot of handy Photography Dubrovnik In Your Pocket team unless otherwise
stated
information to help you get around. We have a feature on Cover Dubrovnik Summer Festival Archives, Othello at
the Konavle region, a location you shouldn’t miss if you Lovrjenac Fort
want to truly experience nature. We will also introduce you Sales & Circulation Kristijan Vukičević, Blanka Valić, Kristina
some great Croatian minds and their inventions, which are Štimac, Tea Bikić
used worldwide. Copyright notice
It can get extremely hot here so make sure you ‘slip, slap Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps Photo by Neven Fazinić & Ivan Grbin, Korčula Tourist Board Archives
and slop’ that sun cream, make sure you see as much of copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this pub-
Dubrovnik as you can, and make sure you take the time lication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts
to sit and appreciate the beautiful surroundings you have for the purpose of review, without written permission from the CLASSICAL CONCERTS 01.04 - 15.07 » ALESSIO ROMENZI - PROTEC-
publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket
found yourselves in. From us all here at IYP, we wish you a is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4,
01.04 - 01.11 » SORKOČEVIĆ QUARTET - TIVE EDGE: GAZA 2014
super summer stay! Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). CANDLELIGHT CONCERTS Renowned Italian photographer comes for a display of his
What could be a more pleasurable treat than a candle-lit stunningly tragic work from the 2014 Israel-Gaza conflict.
classical concert in the atmospheric surroundings of the St QC‑2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20)
Savior’s Church right on the Stradun?QB‑2, Church of St 32 21 66. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
Saviour, Placa bb. 21:00 Every Monday.
27.01 - 01.06 » LEPIDOPTERA
21.06 05:00 » ANA U GRADU Dubrovnik’s Natural History Museum got a much needed
Ana Rucner is a vivacious top class cellist recognisable for boost earlier this year with a rich butterfly exhibition as
her neo-modern style of playing thus bringing the classi- part of the international The Night of Museums. Visitors
cal music genre closer to a younger audience. All this is ac- are encouraged to visit the museum and see the hundreds
companied by her attractive stage performance and this is of samples of butterflies from the whole Dubrovnik-Neret-
your chance to welcome summer in a very different way, va county.QC‑4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum,
with an early sunrise, surrounded by nature and a great Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88. Open 10:00 -
musical performance.Qwww.anarucner.com. 17:00. Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

01.04 - 30.10 » THE END OF YUGOSLAVIA
EXHIBITIONS T​ he expression every picture tells a story has its merit.
08.04 - 09.07 » FROM A ROMAN HOUSE TO This permanent collection of images presents some of the
THE VLAHO BUKOVAC BIOGRAPHICAL world’s leading photojournalists that covered the breakup
MUSEUM of the former Yugoslavia - from Croatia, through to Bosnia
See the physical transformation of the city of Cavtat from and Kosovo. Photographs by Ron Haviv, Alexandra Boulat,
ancient times to now and in particular to the home of one Darko Bandić, Jan Grarup, Claus Bjorn Larsen, Yannis Beh-
of Croatia’s greatest painters Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922). rakis, Chris Morris, Emmanuel Ortiz, Peter Northall, Tarik
The exhibit shows the renovation of his home - a rounded Samarah, Wade Goddard, Ziyah Gafic and Jon Jones are
family space, first through various temporal and socio- included. Multimedia video included.QC‑2, War Photo
logical aspects, and then from a private, closed aspect Limited, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66. Open
intended for the use and needs of a family, to a public mu- 10:00 - 22:00.
seum space. Council papers, official documents and more
encompass this exhibit.QBukovac House, Bukovčeva 5,
Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 86 46, www.kuca-bukovac.hr. pinterest.com/inyourpocket
Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00.

6 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 7
What’s On
FESTIVALS
15.06 - 18.06 » LE PETIT FESTIVAL DU THE-
ATRE
Beauty motivates, nature heals, love saves! The splen-
dour of this small festival lies in the exquisiteness of very
unique art forms which are nurtured at this cultural event;
whether through poetry, acting or dancing, Le Petit Fes-
tival du Theatre will never leave you uninspired nor does
it disappoint.QL‑2, The Lazaret, Frana Supila bb, www.
lepetitfestival.com.
Le Petit Festival Archives 28.06 - 19.08 » ORSULA FESTIVAL
After the Ambient Croatia Association saved and reno-
vated this phenomenal location next to the remains of the
18.05 - 17.07 » NATURE – LABORATORY OF
14th century St Orsula’s Church, as of 2011 Dubrovnik has
COLOURS: TRADITIONAL TECHNOLOGY
gained a new summer stage for this festival which hosts
KNOWLEDGE
The exhibition represents traditional knowledge methods various Croatian and international musical performers
of using and extracting dye from minerals, plants, veg- throughout the summer. There is a gorgeous view over-
etables and animals. It is based on research conducted in looking the Old Town, all the way to Cavtat and the island
the extreme south of the Croatian peninsula and Konavle of Lokrum from this amphitheatre which holds 250 seats
during 2015 and 2016. It is a guest exhibition from Zagreb and is set on a 200 metre high cliff above the sea. It is a 25
Tehcnical Museum Nikola Tesla.QB‑3, Ethnographic Mu‑ minute walk from the Old Town or short ride by the No.10
seum Rupe, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, www. bus. A perfect combination of location and excellent mu-
dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue. sic puts this Festival on everybody’s to-do list! Q www.
orsula-festival.com.
08.06 - 30.07 » LJUBO IVANČIĆ
A thematic solo exhibition by Ljubo Ivančić will showcase 15.07 - 31.08 » EKO ART FESTIVAL
self-portraits next to an easel, as an important topic per- For many people nature and art go hand in hand and this
sistent during his work as a painter. Many such acts can is the first Eco Art Festival in Croatia. It features a series of
be found in the legacy of Ljubo Ivančić and interpreted educational and creative workshops held in five terms dur-
in alternate ways, and not only by what is shown. By thor- ing July and August across various locations throughout
oughly knowing the work of this extraordinary artist, one the island which should enable participants to explore
can easily notice his affinity with artists from art history, and build personal creativity through socialising and en-
especially the dominant influence of Velazquez. There are tertainment, as well as help raise awareness of nature con-
also shades of Vermeer, Goya, Rembrandt, Courbet and servation.Qwww.mljet.hr.
Picasso, to name but a few.QL‑5, Dubrovnik Art Gal‑
lery, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90, www.
ugdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
FOOD & DRINK
15.06 - 14.09 » FLAVOURS OF PELJEŠAC
15.06 - 30.07 » ZENAIDA BANDUR If food and wine is right up your alley, then come on down
Breaking borders, Zenaida Bandur was a female painter of to the Orebić waterfront for a culinary delight! Every
the early 20th century and in homage to some of the lesser Thursday from June 15, rich local cuisine that is typi-
known artists of the city, the Dulčič Masle Pulitika Gallery cally Mediterranean will be presented and tip top Pelješac
will feature her landscapes, genre scenes, sacral scenes, wines will help wash the down the food. This serene fish-
portraits, and paintings of nature in both oil and water- ing town is a tiny oasis and the Dalmatian music in the
colour format.QD‑3, The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery/ background makes for enchanting evenings.Qwww.
Ronald Brown Memorial House, Poljana Marina Držića
visitorebic-croatia.hr. Every Thursday.
1, tel. (+385-20) 61 26 45, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. Open
09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. 29.06 - 02.07 » KINOOKUS - THE FOOD FILM
15.07 - 31.10 » MARIA TURCHENKOVA - YE- FESTIVAL
The art of cinema offers a food frenzy as this international
MEN
film festival preserves and promotes issues relating to
Two years of conflict in Yemen has devastated the country
leaving millions of people in need of humanitarian help. food, traditional recipes, food customs, tools, bio-diversity,
Photographer Maria Turchenkova was one of the few ecology, nutrition, and more. In its 8th edition, it serves
journalists who had entered the country during this pe- up a smorgasbord of film and motion picture with the
riod and her images give an insight into this humanitarian theme being Jedenjaci - a journey through Dubrovnik’s
catastrophe which the mainstream media has considered gastro-heritage. All six sections of the festival will deal
as unimportant.QC‑2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, with the revitalisation of the rich heritage of the Republic
tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, www.warphotoltd.com. Open of Dubrovnik, as well as its cultural, social, and economic
10:00 - 22:00. potential and significance.Qwww.kinookus.com.hr.

8 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
What’s On What’s On
07.07 » CIPOLIJADA
Fishing for mullets (cipol) is a time-honoured tradition in
the Neretva region. During the summer months, fisher-
men patiently sit along the banks of the green and clean
Neretva River and catch this fish which can then be pre-
pared into a variety of dishes. At the end of the summer a
competition in catching mullets called ‘Cipolijada’ is held.
The competition continues into the night with a “Fishing
Night” of music and dancing, during which time the fish
are prepared, cooked, and eaten.Qwww.tzmetkovic.hr.
23.07 » KORČULA WINE FESTIVAL - BLACK
ISLAND WHITE WINES
With a millennia old tradition of wine making, the island
Olafur Eliasson and David Adjaye, Your black horizon, Art Pavilion, 2005 of Korčula is renowned above all for the quality of its white
wines (Pošip and Rukatac), whereas among the reds the
most popular is Plavac Mali. These wines are celebrated
for their exquisite character, complexity, and accentu-
ated aromas which reflect the Mediterranean sunshine,
scents and tastes. So, to all wine connoisseurs, get ready
to dabble!Qwww.visitkorcula.eu. Uncertain Glory, Kino Mediteran

28.07 - 06.08 » THE 7TH POŠIP DAYS IN
ČARA AND SMOKVICA OPERA 20.06 - 12.09 » THE CAVTAT SUMMER
Every summer, this marvellous cultural event brings the
When wine is fine, nobody minds! And the towns of 30.06 - 04.07 » DUBROVNIK INTERNATION- beautiful ancient town of Cavtat to life with an array of
Smokvica and Čara on Korčula have a well-known tradi- AL OPERA ARIAS FESTIVAL HOMMAGE musical and dance performances (jazz, classical, Dalma-
tion in wine growing and wine production dating from ‘TINO PATTIERA’ tian klape and folk groups). The highlight of the event is
ancient Greek times. Pošip is among the most famous If opera moves you, fulfils you, inspires you, then the be-
the Cavtat Summer Carnival which takes place on the first
Croatian white wines. It is named after the authentic grape ginning of July will grace you. As always, the festival brings
weekend in July. All the events are for free.Qwww.visit.
varieties only found in these areas. So if you happen to be back to life some of the best arias ever written and will
cavtat-konavle.com.
close by, visit some of the wineries and feel free to partake be performed by some of the finest and most respected
in the art of wine tasting.Qwww.visitkorcula.eu. opera artists of our day. All this in memory of the world 30.06 18:00 » MASQUERADE CELEBRATION
famous Croatian tenor, Tino Pattiera!QD‑3, The Rector’s OF THE HALF NEW YEAR’S EVE
11.08 » THE NIGHT OF WINE Palace, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97, www. It isn’t exactly New Year’s Eve but we’re half way there. You
The Pelješac peninsula is known for its wineries and pro- dubrovnik-opera-festival.com. bet, this traditional event has been held since 2001 and
duces some of the most exquisite wines Croatia has to of- is celebrated with a maquerade carnival parade through
fer. That is why a lot of events here celebrate this fine nec-
tar. On this very night, all visitors will be able to enjoy local SPECIAL/MISCELLANEOUS the streets of the city of Korčula. It attracts a large num-
Mediterranean dishes with wine as the best appetiser, this EVENTS ber of guests with an entertaining programme that keeps
visitors goinig well after midnight. May the countdown
Stanko Herceg’s Photo Exhibition “View from the window” will be held in time in the town of Trpanj!Qwww.tzo-trpanj.hr. 01.05 - 30.09 » ART PAVILION - YOUR BLACK begin!Qwww.visitkorcula.eu.
Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery August 3rd - September 17th HORIZON
13.08 » MAKARUNADA After its huge success at the Venetian Biennal, the T-BA21 01.07 - 31.08 » SUMMER ON THE ELAPHITE
This is an event in the village of Žrnovo (3km from the ISLANDS, ZATON AND ORAŠAC
THE LINĐO FOLK ENSEMBLE town of Korčula). It begins with a workshop on how to
foundation chose the rich and ancient island of Lopud as
home to its modern Pavilion. This windowless pavilion Enchanting Mediterranean melodies and traditional folk-
make makaruni, a particular home-made pasta native to presents a thin horizontal line of light, which endlessly lore festivities have been cherished for centuries on the
02.05 - 31.10 the locals, then comes cooking for the masses as the food
The Linđo folk ensemble, one of Croatia’s finest cultural runs around the dark given space. Bear witness to how the Elaphite Islands near Dubrovnik, and this musical and cul-
is served with a meaty sauce to all those gathered. Live light naturally changes its spectrum from sunrise to sunset. tural event has for a number of years been entertaining the
exports, is ready to dance its socks off for you every outdoor entertainment is provided in an authentic Medi-
Tuesday and Friday during the tourist season, when Qwww.tba21.org. visitors. Folklore dancing, Dalmatian klape and classical
terranean atmosphere!Qwww.visitkorcula.eu. concerts are just some of the things held on the islands of
high-spirited energetic performances with amazing
costumes and haunting songs will echo through Laza- 15.08 » MLJET’S HIDDEN CORNERS 16.06 - 28.09 » SWORD DANCE FESTIVAL Koločep, Lopud, Šipan and in Zaton and Orašac.QElaph‑
This event presents and preserves a rich heritage of sword ite Islands, Koločep, Lopud, Šipan, Zaton, Orašac, www.
reti. The Dubrovnik Summer Festival (July 10 - August Ethno culinary event that connects several manifestations
dancing on the island of Korčula. Set in original ambience, tzdubrovnik.hr.
25) is an exception, when their performances are as of the same character into one and held exclusively in the
several of Korčula’s sword dance societies (moreška, kum-
per the festival’s schedule. To reserve your ticket call old villages of the island. Local housewives use fresh in-
panija and moštra) during summer season perform their 01.07 - 02.07 » CAVTAT SUMMER CARNIVAL
(+385-20) 32 40 23, (+385-) 099 833 06 79.QL‑2, The gredients to prepare and present local delicacies, brandies Rio, eat your heart out! Welcome to a carnival atmosphere
type of chain dance with swards dating back as early as the
Lazaret, Frana Supila bb, www.lindjo.hr/. 21:30 Every and wines. There is live music, folklore, old photographs that has a 100 year tradition. Be what you wanna be in the
12th century. Come and see this amazing battle dances
Tuesday & Friday. and crafts, and even some records playing. It’s as if time first week of July. Locals and guests go all out and dress in
that carries the universal message of good overcoming
stops for a moment, and so let it be!Qwww.mljet.hr. costume, glitter and glare. Stages big and small are aplenty
bad. This year’s opening will host guests from England,
Sallyport Sword Dancers.Qwww.visitkorcula.eu. Every with live bands, street entertainers, jugglers, performers,
www.inyourpocket.com Mon, Thu, Fri. and folk and a cappella groups that turn the whole town
into a magical haven.Qwww.visit.cavtat-konavle.com.

10 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 11
What’s On What’s On
02.07 21:30 » KLAPA CAMBI 17.07 » JUMPING INTO THE NERETVA
Hailed by many as the best male acapella vocal in the A “jumping competition” that attracts a large number of
country, Klapa Cambi bring to life a broad range of new viewers is held next to the Lučki most (harbour bridge)
and hallowed Dalmatian evergreens that reach the hearts in Metković. Obstacles the contestants must compete
of most listeners. Songs of love, romance, the sea, sand, include, swimming with a rubber ring, rowing in a large
rocks, olives, wine and everything Mediterranean, this tractor tire, climbing up a rope to reach a piece of pršut,
choir sing with and without instruments, and a freshness and jumping from small and large diving boards. Com-
like no other. Sobra, Mljet IslandQwww.mljet.hr. petitors include children, the young and the old. Special
attention is paid to the “craziest jump” category.Qwww.
10.07 - 25.08 » 68TH DUBROVNIK SUMMER tzmetkovic.hr.
FESTIVAL
One of the oldest European festivals with over 80 national 28.07 » ROMAN NIGHT
and international music, theatre and dance performances In the village of Vid, near Metković, is the ancient remains
shown over 7 sizzling summer weeks. In its 68th edition, of the Roman city of Narona. For one night only, Romans
this event has all the grandeur with renaissance venues will rampage once again with the staging of market slaves
such as the Lovrjenac Fort, Revelin Fort, in front of the St. and gladiator fights, see ancient crafts such as coinage,
Blaise’s Church, Stradun, Lazareti and the Rector’s Palace pottery made on potter’s wheel, wooden toys, or even
that bestow a captivating ambience. 2000 artists will show visit a Roman cosmetician or hair sylist.Exotic dancers, fire
you how the Old City turns into a stage.QB/C‑2, Stradun, jugglers and delicious Roman cuisine make the night all
Placa, www.dubrovnik-festival.hr. the more special.Qwww.tzmetkovic.hr.
14.07 - 16.07 » MARCO POLO FEST 10.08 - 12.08 » DAYS OF THE NERETVA PRIN-
Step back in time and celebrate at this festival of song and CIPALITY
wine, it was established in honour of Marco Polo who was The Neretva area is a valley with a lenghty river and marsh-
born on the island. The 3 day event begins with a ‘wine es, it has a long tradition of agriculture as it was “the” major
fiesta’, the second evening is dedicated to ‘pop melodies’ source of life. For three days the entire area rises to the oc-
whilst the finale is fittingly titled ‘melodies of Marco Polo’. casion of recalling the ways of their “dide i babe”, or grand-
Wine from all over the world is sampled so dig in for some mas ans grandpas. It prepares locals for the biggest event
fine wine tasting and fun.Qwww.marcopolofest.hr.

of the year in the “Boat Marathon” and there is a fair of
traditional crafts, rural games, homemade produce, cos- REVELIN FORTRESS
tumed plays and more...Qwww.tzmetkovic.hr.
Not only is the Revelin Fortress a landmark of Du-
12.08 » THE NERETVA BOAT (LAĐA) MARA- brovnik, it is now home to some intriguing exhibitions.
THON The ground floor caters to two archaeological exhibits
Be among the 50 000 visitors that attand this spectacle whilst the first floor is a high-tech centrepiece with a
which promotes the protection of the lađa, Neretva boat, virtual museum.
an authentic, traditional vessel which for centuries was a The exhibit Early Medieval Sculpture of Dubrovnik
mean ofvtransport. Each year, an amateur rowing com- and Environs is linked to the material stone, for stone
petition is held from Metković to Ploče, 22.5km along the is what gives this Medieval City its charm. Even furni-
Neretva river. Both towns are amassed with people and ture in churches was made from stone and this exhibit
there are parades, concerts, and plenty of cheer.Qwww. presents stone altars, fences, pulpits, windows and im-
maraton-ladja.hr. posts in a pre-Romanic and early Romanic style. These
artefacts have been gathered from the Benedictine or-
THEATRE der in Dubrovnik and it’s surroundings; they date from
the 8th and 12th century.
24.06 - 05.07 » MIDSUMMER SCENE -
SHAKESPEARE’S A MIDSUMMER NIGHT’S The second exhibit Archaeological research, Spatial
DREAM Development and Foundry presents how the very
Shakespeare’s entertaining comedy is set to unravel on building you are standing in, was built. Visuals depict
stage at the magical Lovrjenac tower this summer. An in- its 15th and 16th century construction as well as find-
ternational cast will perform the play which is filled with ings such as ovens for casting cannons and bells, and
love affairs and false identities that all amount to the pin- the houses of different stone masons and foundry men.
nacle question of ‘What is love?’ Performed in English, Any public-construction in the city at the time was put
the play coincides with the 450th anniversary of Croatia’s on halt to accelerate the building of the fortress due to
greatest Comedy writer, Marin Držić.QK‑3, Lovrijenac potential Venetian dangerQE-1, dumus.hr/en/. Open
Fortress, Ul. od Tabakarije 29, tel. (+385-20) 43 27 92, 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Wed. Unified ticket.
Jumping into the Neretva, Photo by Marin Veraja, Metković Tourist Board Archives www.midsummer-scene.com.

12 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 13
What’s On
From small acorns...
In 1992 a small team
published the first
In Your Pocket
guide to Vilnius in
Lithuania. 25 years
on In Your Pocket now
covers over 100 cities
throughout the world in print, online
and on mobile reaching over 10 million
readers annually.

Shakespeare’s Twelfth Nigth, Midsummer Scene

FILM CLUB NIGHTS
12.07 - 27.09 » TASTE A DIFFERENT CINEMA 10.08 - 14.08 » REVELIN FESTIVAL
ONLINE
You won’t see Hollywood blockbusters here, but you will Electro grooves will once again pelt out from Culture Club
see some impressive movies and documentaries that are Revelin. Top world DJs will mix and remix for five days
not so commercial. The Slavica Cinema is home to this film in the majestic five hundred years old Revelin Fortress
festival which is only held on Wednesdays and has in re- where some of the scenes of the hugely popular ‘Game of
cent times gathered lots of film lovers. The publication of Thrones’ series were filmed.QE‑1, Culture Club Revelin,
the book ABC film will be an added feature to this year’s Sv. Dominika bb (Fort Revelin), tel. (+385-) 098 53 35 31,
addition.Q www.kinookus.com.hr www.clubrevelin.com.

04.08 - 14.08 » SUMMER FILM SCHOOL
ŠIPAN KINO MEDITERAN PRINT MOBILE
Along with the island’s film festival, workshops are held
for kids under the mentorship of distinguished film prof- A sad fact from the march of modern times has been
fessionals. Kids from the island as well as visitors produce the closure of cinemas, and on the Croatian coast
their own films aech summer and screen them in the open in particular we mourn the loss of open air cinemas
theatre under the stars. We just might find the next Spiel- which offered the particular pleasure of watching a
berg here! Šipan islandQwww.sipan-film.com. film on a balmy evening under a starry sky. The great
news is, a project named Kino Mediteran has for five
23.08 - 30.08 » THE MARCO POLO FILM years now been reinstituting cinemas Dalmatia, with
In Your Pocket continues to be a success today because at its heart are local
FESTIVAL cinemas in 30 towns open during the summer, and 10
This festival is inspired by the life of the traveller Marco Polo of those open throughout the year. professionals writing freely about cities that they love and who benefit from
who is believed to have been born in Korčula, and particu-
The films on show are the best of European and world
sharing their experience, knowledge and resources as a group.
larly his travels on the Silk Road. The festival organisers
cinema, including a programme for children and titles
believe that the Silk Road was not just a trade route but a
from current film festivals. During the summer, films
We’d like to take the opportunity of our 25th anniversary to say thank you to our
conduit for understanding and therefore tolerance among
all the peoples who used it. The themes of the festival are have bilingual subtitles so they are accessible for tour- writers and researchers for their dedication, hard work and wit and of course all
thus the Silk Road and cultural dialogue, and the grand ists. May this project grow and grow!QKino Mediteran of our readers over the years for your support.
prize of the festival goes to the best film that promotes Korčula, Kino Mediteran Lastovo, Kino Mediteran
peace and tolerance.Qwww.marcopolofilmfestival. Goveđari (Mljet), www.kinomediteran.hr. If you’d like to join our group of independent local publishers
com. we’d love to hear from you. Drop us a line at joinus@inyourpocket.com
14 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Croatian Inventors
By Andrea Pisac show but they forever change the way we see the world.
If there was an index to calculate a country’s inventiveness This is why you should remember Ruđer Bošković, Du-
gene, Croatia would rank extremely high. This small coun- brovnik-born mathematician, astronomer, and philosopher
try of no more than 4.5 million people has advanced the – the father of modern physics.
world in all major spheres of life. Croatian inventors have His famous work Theoria Philosophiae Naturalis/Theory
dreamed up ingenious abstract concepts and have also of Natural Philosophy (Vienna, 1758) contains super-
created hands-on solutions that we use in everyday life. modern theories that were proven and embraced only two
Starting from Nikola Tesla who literally “lit up the world” centuries later. Like for example that matter consists of tiny
with his alternating electric current to Slavoljub Penkala particles, today known as quarks, and a lot of empty space.
whose pen allows us to sign our name – physically on pa- The true meaning of this revolutionary discovery may be
per and metaphorically as a legacy. lost to a layperson. So think of Albert Einstein’s theory of
Many of Croatia’s greatest minds lived a quiet life, as most relativity – the biggest discovery of the 20th century –
geniuses do. And as history keeps re-evaluating our big- and remember that it wouldn’t have been possible without
gest civilizational feats, Croatian inventions too are being Bošković’s ideas.
rescued from oblivion. Like for example the ideas spawned But this genius scientist also used his mind for practical so-
by the physicist Ruđer Bošković, which predate Einstein’s lutions, like repairing the dome of St. Peter’s in Rome
theory of relativity by 200 years. and setting up the famous Brera Observatory in Milan.
What better way to connect to your travel destination than
to realize how its inventors influenced the world at large, Ivan Lupis (1813-1875)
and your own day-to-day life. So here is a list of Croatia’s Weapons may not be the greatest of our achievements, but
major innovators. when Ivan Lupis invented the torpedo, more technologi-
cal breakthroughs followed. The initial idea of this Croatian
Faust Vrančić (1551 - 1617) navy officer was to guard the coast with small boats laden
People had always been fascinated with flying, but it was with explosives.
not until the Renaissance that they had the first taste of it. The concept of fighting off the enemy with a much smaller
Many think that Leonardo da Vinci invented the parachute. and self-propelled vessel was so revolutionary it quickly
But the revolutionary ‘Homo Volans’ (the flying man) con- caught the attention of the English engineer Robert
cept was actually thought through by Šibenik-born Faust Whitehead. Under his direction, the first torpedo was
Vrančić. manufactured in Rijeka in 1868. Over the years the
In his masterwork Machinae Novae/New Devices (Venice fish-like underwater weapon was improved through other
1615), this genius polymath depicted 56 different ma- discoveries, such as contra-rotating propellers and the use
chines, devices, and technical concepts. Many were bridg- of a gyroscope for direction setting. It was one of the most
es, mills and turbines. Next time you admire San Francisco’s important military resources in both World Wars.
famous Golden Gate Bridge, remember that the suspen-
sion bridge was Vrančić’s brainchild. Ivan Vučetić (1858 - 1925)
The parachute he conceived of was the first ever tested. Today’s world is fascinated with forensics and CSI TV shows.
It was Vrančić himself who at the age of 65 jumped from On the one hand, this advanced investigative technology
St Mark’s Campanile in Venice and confirmed his invention makes us safer because hardly anyone can get away with
Concept One, Rimac Automobili Archives worked. He survived, setting humankind on course to fi- committing a crime. On the other, the data kept on each of
nally conquer the sky. us may be infringing on our privacy. Like fingerprinting for
an ID for example.
Marin Getaldić (1568-1626) Whether you are for or against it, have you ever wondered

Croatian Inventors
Maybe you don’t need glasses, or don’t need them yet. who invented it? It was the Hvar-born Ivan Vučetić who
But when you pick them up in your seasoned years, think later emigrated to Argentina and became the director
of the mathematician and physicist Marin Getaldić. This of the Center for Dactyloscopy in Buenos Aires. In 1892
Dubrovnik-born colleague of Galileo Galilei set the stage Vučetić made the first positive identification of a criminal
for modern day optics. A pioneer in building conic lenses, based on a bloody fingerprint. His exceptional method of
he would retire into the so called Bete’s cave outside the fingerprinting classification became the golden stand-
Dubrovnik city walls and conduct his experiments with ard in CSIs around the world.
GREAT MINDS FROM A SMALL COUNTRY mirrors.
The parabolic mirror he built still survives and is kept at Nikola Tesla (1856-1943)
the National Maritime Museum in London. Again, a para- There are still people who don’t know of Tesla, but there is
bolic mirror may not sound like much. But next time you hardly anyone whose life is not impacted by his ingenious
tune into your favourite TV show on a satellite channel, re- inventions. Let’s start with electricity, this basic facility that
member, a satellite dish is just one if its many applications. we won’t or can’t live without. Tesla’s alternating electric
current (AC), invented at the same time as Edison’s direct
Ruđer Bošković (1711-1787) current (DC), proved a safer and more cost-effective mode
The hardest inventions to understand and appreciate are of power generation and distribution. Tesla is what hap-
the abstract ones. They may not have practical devices to pens every day when you turn your lights switch on!

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 17
Croatian Inventors Restaurants
The old-fashioned way, with a pen to paper. This was made and Beef Cheeks. For dessert, St. Blaise Soil is a must-try. As
possible by the great inventor Slavoljub Penkala who first SYMBOL KEY an additional plus, they offer free wi-fi so you can catch up
patented the mechanical pen in 1906. Only a year later, with your family and friends as you enjoy a delicious meal
Penkala also created the fountain pen. in this ancient setting.QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 1, tel. (+385-
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted 20) 32 39 77, www.tavulin.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00.
These writing accessories became so popular that Pen-
kala teamed up with Edmund Moster to set up the Penkala- (100 - 170kn). P­J­G­B­X­W
T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled
Moster pen-and-pencil factory. TOZ Penkala (the factory’s
current name) is still alive and kicking in Zagreb – an estab- DUBRAVKA 1836 RESTAURANT & CAFÉ
B Outside seating L Guarded parking Located on Pile, this restaurant overlooks Lovrijenac For-
lishment with a cult status.
If writing is our civilizational achievement, then Penkala tress and the Old City Walls. They offer delicious Mediterra-
S Take away 6 Pet-friendly nean dishes in a romantic and peaceful setting. Their vast
undoubtedly provided one of the most crucial means by
which we leave our mark and our signature in the world. W Wifi J Old town location
menu includes enough choices to suit everyone’s taste,
such as a variety of pizzas, risottos and pastas, fish dishes,
Zlata Bartl (1920-2008) such as Grilled Squid or Salmon Fillet and meat dishes,
A magical cooking spice Vegeta is the magnus opus of such as Dalmatia Style Steak or Lamb Fillet. As an addition-
Zlata Bartl. You may be thinking ‘how typical for a woman CROATIAN al bonus, if you’re a Game of Thrones fan, this restaurant
to invent something relating to the kitchen’. But Zlata Bartl BISTRO GLORIJET overlooks one of the scenes from the show.QA‑2, Brsalje
was a chemist and a scientist working in Croatia’s foremost Close to the city market in Gruž harbour you’ll find this 1, tel. (+385-20) 42 63 19, www.nautikarestaurants.com.
food company Podravka. lovely old summer residence which has been turned into a Open 08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 160kn). P­i­A­U­G­B­W
In 1959 she concocted Vegeta from salt, spices, dried veg- bistro where you can enjoy good cooking at sensible pric-
etables and flavour enhancers. The condiment soon shot to es. Glorijet has earned a reputation among the locals as KAVANA TEATAR
popularity and was selling worldwide. No foreign attempt a good lunch spot.QH‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 16, tel. Located in Lapad, off of the typical tourist track, this simple
Fausto Veranzio Homo Volans, plate n. 38 from Machinae Novae, to reproduce the product, and there were many, was suc- (+385-20) 41 97 88/(+385-) 098 28 51 80. Open 10:00 - and laid-back restaurant serves all your basic meals. Not
book published in Venice, 1616, Wikipedia
cessful, so Vegeta continues to be one of Croatia’s most 24:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 170kn). P­T­A­6­U­G­W only a restaurant but a cafe as well, stop by for a drink or
widely recognized brands. Next time you are cooking, grab a bite to eat. They offer something for everyone from
His next grand discovery was the radio, though it was ini- BISTRO TAVULIN pizza and ćevapčići to carbonara spaghetti and omeletts.
tially credited to Marconi – the patent was eventually given try the Croatian trick – finish with adding one spoonful of
Vegeta. Located behind St. Blaise Church, this restaurant offers a This simple, but delicious food will hit the spot and best
back to Tesla in 1943. From there Tesla invented the sys- shady spot to rest during a hot summer day. They offer of all, for a reasonable price.QH‑2, Iva Vojnovića 72, tel.
tem of remote control. Yes, the same one you use when some special dishes not found in other restaurants, such (+385-20) 43 62 20. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 -
Tomislav Uzelac
you flip through TV channels. as Creamy Barley with Adriatic Shrimp, Octopus Ragout 01:00. (35 - 90kn). P­T­A­6­G­B­X­S­W
Do you remember how the iPod came to be? There is a
His most impressive yet controversial discovery is the moving scene in the film Steve Jobs where he devised the
Tesla Coil – the concept that the Earth itself is a magnet portable music library to get closer to his estranged daugh-
which generates electricity through frequencies. All that is ter. But having your favourite music tucked inside your
needed for free power for everyone is a transmitter. See the pocket predates Jobs’ ingenuity.
controversy here?
The first successful MP3 player was invented by the
But, back to practical, everyday solutions. Think of house Croatian programmer Tomislav Uzelac. He built on research
appliances, machine tools, disk drives... they are all about music file compression carried out in Germany and
powered by the electric motor invented by Tesla. Next came up with his own product in 1997 – AMP. This first MP3
time when you take a cold drink from your fridge, think Te- player was picked up in the USA and adapted to work on
sla. Styling your hair with a hairdryer? Think Tesla. This man Windows. Then we got Winamp, and we are sure most of
changed the planet as probably no one before or after him. you have had it installed on your computers.
And yes, the Tesla electric car is named after Nikola Tesla!
The newest inventions
David Schwarz (1850-1897)
There is a new generation of savvy Croatian program-
When it comes to conquering the sky, Croats indebted
mers who continue to impress with their state-of-the-art
the world with yet another design – the Zeppelin. David
devices. You will come across at least two of them while
Schwarz, a Croatian aviation pioneer created the first of its
you travel in Croatia. Here, you can pay for parking by text
kind, an airship completely made of metal. The Zeppelin
message and charge your mobile device on a solar-pow-
plane may not be in use any more, but its discovery was
ered smart bench. The Steora bench, invented by Ivan
an important step in designing airships which could be
Mrvoš, has already stormed the world, and Zagreb alone
controlled by engine-driven propellers.
has 20 of them installed across the city.
Schwarz worked on the prototype that was to be test flown
in Berlin in 1897, but he died a few months before it hap- When it comes to new sources of energy, you only need
pened. The legend says that Count Ferdinand Graf von Zep- to go 20 km outside Zagreb to the bucolic village of Sveta
pelin bought Schwarz’s patent from his widow, the reason Nedelja to find the world’s fastest electric car. This is
why the airship is named after him. where Mate Rimac makes his famous Concept One – the
biggest competitor to the electric models made by Ferrari,
Slavoljub Penkala (1871-1922) Lamborghini and Porsche. When you are in Zagreb, don’t
Even if you’re not a professional writer, try counting the miss a chance to visit the Rimac factory. Go on a 60 minute
number of times you put your signature on a document. tour and meet the world’s most talked about car in person.

18 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 19
Restaurants Restaurants
KOMIN ETHNIC
The “fireplace”, adorned with ironwork and ancient weap-
CANTINA MEXICANA CHIHUAHUA
onry, has as its centrepiece a real hearth where your meal
This rather pleasant Mexican serves up all the usuals: siz-
is cooked before your very eyes – try meat or fish ispod
zling fajitas, burritos, tacos and chimichangas, plus ribs,
peke. A good choice in the Babin kuk area.QG‑2, Iva
wings and steaks. Open all year round it provides an ideal
Dulčića 136, tel. (+385-20) 43 56 36, www.restaurant-
alternative for anyone looking for a satisfying meal, be
komin.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (80 - 130kn). P­T­
they a local looking to shy away from the traditional Med-
A­6­L­G­B­X­W
iteranean fare, or a tourist simply craving something a bit
KOPUN different.QG‑2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 2b, tel. (+385-
Situated at the top of a long flight of steps, next to the 20) 42 44 45/(+385-) 098 58 28 46. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
Jesuit Church, this restaurant features food from all across (55 - 130kn). P­V­N­B­S­W
Croatia, and when we say all over, we mean all over; every INCREDIBLE INDIA
notable region is represented on the menu. As their name Authentic Indian cuisine has finally made its way to Du-
suggests their specialty is the kopun, or capon to you and brovnik! Located on a narrow side street off of Stradun,
me, and they also have local beer on tap. Service is deliv- this restaurant offers a cozy atmosphere between the cool
ered with smiles in abundance, and this is a great spot for a stone walls. The orange coloured walls, decorated with
romantic meal, far from any loud pubs or cafes.QC‑4, Pol‑ pictures of India, create a traditional Indian feel. They offer
jana Ruđera Boškovića 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 69/(+385-) dishes from all over the Indian subcontinent and use only
099 212 98 80, 098 42 73 82, www.restaurantkopun. the freshest ingredients. Enjoy some chicken tandoori and
com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 250kn). P­T­J­A­ prawn masala with a side of saffron rice or garlic naan. To
G­B­X­W drink, try some traditional Indian masala tea or sweet lassi.
MIMOZA Reservations are recommended ahead of time as seats
In a courtyard across from the Hilton Imperial Hotel, 100 fill up quickly.QC‑2, Vetranićeva 6, tel. (+385-20) 31 27
meters from the Pile Gate, Mimoza is big enough to handle 43, www.incredibleindiadubrovnik.com. Open 11:00 -
your tour group and several others simultaneously, seem- 23:00. (75 - 150kn). P­T­J­A­B­S­W
ingly without a blink. There’s a dining room, but the ter- MEX CANTINA BONA FIDE
race, shaded partly with a grape arbour, is a pleasant place Don’t let the name fool you, they don’t just offer Mexi-
to dine on meats and fish, pizzas and pasta and vegetarian can dishes, but Italian, as well. The outdoor terrace is
dishes. Delivery is available.QJ‑3, Branitelja Dubrovnika snuggled into a narrow side street, with colourful pastel
9, tel. (+385-20) 41 11 57, www.restaurant-mimoza- tables creating a vibrant contrast to the grey stone walls.
dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - 120kn). P­i­ They offer tacos, enchiladas, fajitas and nachos, as well as
T­A­E­G­B­X­W a wide variety of pizzas and pastas. When you can’t decide
ORHAN between Mexican and Italian, it’s the perfect spot to suit
Definitely check out the tiny harbour at Pile – it’s like either mood.QB‑2/3, Čubranovićeva 8, tel. (+385-) 095
something out of a pirate movie set in an intimate huddle 885 27 92. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€. P­T­J­A­6­U­
of houses beneath sheer cliffs. Orhan’s terrace is, therefore, G­B­S­W
a great spot. Decent quality, classic Croatian cooking at TAJ MAHAL
reasonable prices.QK‑3, Od Tabakarije 1, tel. (+385-20) First things first, the food isn’t Indian but Bosnian though
41 41 83, www.restaurant-orhan.com. Open 11:00 - the immaculate décor has an Eastern influence. Back to
23:30. (80 - 200kn). P­T­J­A­6­G­B­X­W what’s important, the cuisine. Expect a cross-cultural fu-
ZOE sion of East meets West with fresh ingredients priority one.
Located on the rocky south-western tip of the Babin kuk Homemade flatbread is a must; top sellers include čevapi,
peninsula (and a pleasant 15-minute walk from Lapad bay meat platters, lamb stew, shish-kebabs, soups, house wine
along the coastal path), Zoe is an excellent place at which and more. Their authentic Turkish coffee is the best way to
to sample choice local food on a lovely sea-facing terrace. winddown. Also at Iva Vojnovića 14, Hotel Lero.QC‑3,
As well as grilled fish pure-and-simple there’s a healthy Nikole Gučetića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 21/(+385-) 098
sprinkling of traditional country recipes, such as roast duck 983 26 20, www.tajmahal-dubrovnik.com. Open 10:00
breast, or stewed frogfish with sage. Starters like breaded - 01:00. (90 - 200kn). T­A­6­G­B­S­W
frogs’ legs or risotto with boletus mushrooms will prob- TAKENOKO
ably suffice as a lunchtime main course. Prices are per Takenoko is Croatia’s oldest and most well-known Japa-
evening menu.QF‑2, Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385- nese fusion restaurant. Located just outside Dubrovnik’s
20) 44 01 00, www.importanneresort.com. Open 12:00 stunning Pile Gate, the food aims to give the view a run for
- 23:00. (160 - 220kn). P­A­L­G­B­W its money. The luxury menu and extensive wine list are not
for those on a shoestring—but the sushi and the ambi-
ance are beyond reproach.QE‑1, Hvarska 2, tel. (+385 -
instagram.com/inyourpocket 20) 69 46 09, www.takenoko.hr/en/. Open 18:00 - 23:30.
(87 - 185kn).
20 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 21
Restaurants Restaurants
INTERNATIONAL MAGELLAN
The first beautiful thing about this restaurant is the natural
LA CASTILE light that floods through huge windows on all four sides.
This restaurant is part of the Royal Princess Hotel and The second is the magenta-coloured wall covered in mod-
offers a variety of top-quality local seafood and meat ern paintings by artists from Dubrovnik. Third, and most
dishes. Each classy and sophisticated dish is made us- important, is the food. Bread and pasta are home-made;
ing the freshest ingredients and can be savoured with everything is fresh and perfectly prepared, and the service
a local or foreign wine. Enjoy this delicious meal while is first-class.QI‑3, Iva Vojnovića 7a, tel. (+385-20) 33 35
overlooking the amazing Adriatic Sea. At this restaurant, 94. Open 08:00 -00:00. (100 - 300kn). P­A­U­L­E­
you’re in for a real treat! Prices are per evening menu. G­B­X­S­W
QF‑2, Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 01 00,
www.importanneresort.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (170 PANTARUL
- 260kn). P­A­G­B­W A popular spot for the locals to frequent, you must try this
delectable restaurant during your visit. They offer delicious
LUCIN KANTUN appetizers like spring rolls, quiches or steak tartare. As well,
One can expect the best of Mediterranean dishes and delightful risottos and homemade pasta dishes are just
they also do tapas. Their open kitchen style of cooking a few of the choices for a main course. As an additional
is almost like sitting back and watching a scene from the bonus, they’re always adding new and fun meals to the
MasterChef series. Presentation is personified; service is menu. Tastefully decorated, the friendly staff and warm
impeccable, interior is charming! With little to fault, this environment will leave you with a satisfied experience.
hidden treasure is located in a back alley just off Stradun The tables fill up quickly, so make sure you reserve a spot
and is the perfect escape.QB‑2, Od Sigurate bb, tel. ahead of time.QH‑2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-20) 33
(+385-20) 32 10 03. Open 11:00 - 01:00. (38 - 160kn). 34 86, www.pantarul.com. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 -
P­T­J­A­6­U­G­B­X­W 24:00. Closed Mon. (60 - 140kn). P­T­A­L­G­S­W
PORAT RESTAURANT & BAR
BREAKFAST Located in the Gruž Harbour, this classy and modern res-
taurant has a variety of delicious dishes to choose from
ORLANDO on their menu. They offer various soups and salads, gour-
A perfect spot for breakfast on a warm day: this place met burgers, grilled steaks, as well as fresh “Catch of the
has just three tables inside but a wonderful terrace THE GATSBY WINE & FOOD BAR KONOBA JEZUITE
Day” fish, all artfully presented. It’s the perfect spot for an
right on Stradun. Apart from home-baked rolls and Located in a quaint street in the old town, The Gatsby Tucked away from the big crowds where serenity reigns
evening out with your friends and family.QH‑1, Obala
croissants, you can treat yourself to dalmatian cured Wine & Food Bar caters to a modern clientele with a nod to and positioned in front of the Saint Ignatius Church.
Stjepana Radića 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 52, www.porat-
ham, scrambled eggs, fresh juice, tea and coffee. A bit the roaring 20’s. Locally sourced ingredients and Adriatic Choose from a balanced choice of fish and meat dishes
dubrovnik.com. Open 07:30 – 24:00. (25 - 500kn). P­i­
on the pricey side due to the prime location.QC,D‑2, fish meet specialty cuts of beef from around the world. or platters with excellent wines to dabble. It is typical
T­A­6­U­G­B­X­S­W
Placa bb, www.esculaprestaurants.com. Open The selection of local wines is extensive—as it should be. Dalmatia and we recommend the mussels.QC‑4, Poljana
07:30 - 01:00. (60 - 120kn). J­A­B­W RESTAURANT 360° Cool off with a refreshing Mint Julep or Gin Rickey.QB‑3, Ruđera Boškovića 5, tel. (+385-) 098 74 00 73, www.
If this review were to merely say ‘WOW!’ then it would be Od Domina 1. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (100 - 400kn). B­W restaurantjezuitedubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00.
doing this restaurant a great injustice. 360° is designed for (60 - 150kn). J­A­B­W
PUPICA
Charming patisserie in the stunning Old city which couples, not for larger groups, so it maintains a wonderful KONOBA PUPO
could suit almost any European town, city, or village. air of serenity even when full. From the main room which
is set deep into the City walls, to the outdoor terraces KONOBA DALMATINO Compact and bijou, this small tavern offers a variety of
Their slogan states that ‘life without breakfast, is like Tucked inside the narrow side streets of the Old City, Ko- well-prepared seafood dishes and steaks as well as a ‘walk
a day without morning’. So before you get ready which look out over the harbour. Their wine cellar alone
is worth in excess of 1 million Euros, and that alone should noba Dalmatino has added a unique twist to traditional on a wok side’ as a good choice for a light lunch. Outdoor
to ‘head out’ on your daily adventure, omelettes, Dalmatian cuisine. Try some Mussels in a Cream Wine seating immersed in the Old city, local ingredients, wines
toasts, as well as cakes can only do you good!QC‑3, be all you need to know about 360°.QE‑2, Sv.Dominika
bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 22, www.360dubrovnik.com. Sauce, John Dory Fillet or Seared Tuna Steak with pan and tempting homemade cakes make this value for mon-
Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. (+385-) 099 216 54 54, www. fried vegetables from the appetizing menu, in this warm ey - worth visiting.QC‑2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. (+385-20)
pupodubrovnik.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00. P­i­T­ Open 18:30 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (190 - 350kn). P­T­
J­A­6­G­B­X­W environment of orange and brown hues, resembling rus- 32 35 55/(+385-) 099 216 54 54, www.pupodubrovnik.
J­A­6­U­G­B­X­W tic Tuscany. Old photos of Dubrovnik line the walls, along com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (65 - 190kn). T­J­A­U­
TAVERNA OTTO with wine bottles that are displayed around the restau- G­B­K­X­S­W
SALVATORE This charming little taverna has an atmosphere reminis- rant, for decoration. To satisfy your palate, there is an ex-
Call it the perfect pit stop right on the old city walls cent of a French bistro. It’s attracting more and more ad- tensive list of wines to choose from to sip along with your ROZARIO
especially in 30 plus degree heat. Their breakfast menu mirers thanks to its attractive décor, great terrace and ex- meal. For dessert, don’t miss out on trying the Chocolate On the extreme east of the Prijeko strip, this little res-
is simple and easy, ranging from omelettes to sand- cellent food. We especially recommend the spicy pork ribs, Fondant, for a small taste of heaven.QC‑3, Miha Pracata taurant stands out from its neighbours for its family-run
wiches. But best of all, the view overlooking the sea grilled tuna steak and chocolate fondant. But whatever 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 70/(+385-) 098 32 74 04, www. atmosphere and homestyle cooking – that’s why you’ll
and smoothies and juices made fresh on site make this you choose, you can’t go wrong.QI‑2, Nikole Tesle 8, tel. dalmatino-dubrovnik.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - often find the locals lunching here.QD‑2, Prijeko 1, tel.
time-out, a true breather!QE‑4, Old City Walls, tel. (+385-20) 35 86 33, www.tavernaotto.com. Open 12:00 180kn). P­T­J­A­6­G­B­X­W (+385-20) 32 20 15/(+385-) 098 89 38 54, 099 315 65
(+382-20) 63 69 39. Open 08:00 -18:30. - 16:00, 19:00 - 23:00, Tue 19:00 - 23:00. (80 - 200kn). 50, www.konoba-rozario.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (70 -
P­T­A­6­G­B­X­W www.inyourpocket.com 168kn). P­i­T­J­A­G­B­X­S

22 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 23
Restaurants Restaurants
TUTTO BENE some outdoor fresh air under cover.QI‑2, Vukovarska 17, KLARISA
Top city fast food place with a lavish choice of meals to tel. (+385-) 099 321 61 41. Open 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Since they’ve been operating in Dubrovnik for only a few
devour! Choose from mega sandwiches, kebabs, burgers, Sun. (70 - 130kn). P­T­A­L­B­W years, you can be forgiven for thinking that this restaurant
chicken wings, tortilla wraps, salads and the best pre- has always been here. All their food, as you would expect,
pared French-fries along the Adriatic. Service is friendly DEFNE is sourced locally, and during the summer months you’ll
and fun with suitable prices also. You’ll find them located Straight out of the movies this restaurant, which is part be pleased to note that much of the fish is off-menu, be-
in central position in the Old Town and they now have a of the 5 Star Pucić Palace Hotel, is situated on a first floor cause they never know what the catch of the day will be –
lovely restaurant in the Lapad Bay, Šetalište kralja Zvoni- terrace and would have to be the first choice pick for any that’s how fresh their fish is. Their brand new Renaissance
mira bb.QC‑3, Od Puča 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 33 53, www. anniversary dinner, or valentine’s rendezvous. The menu, kitchen offers delicious meals, such as homemade fish
tuttobene-dubrovnik.com/. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (15 - while far from cheap, is nevertheless impressive, and fea- soup, Šporki makaruli (Dirty Macaroni a traditional pasta
45kn). J­A­W tures cuisine from Croatia, Italy, Spain, and the Middle East, dish from Dubrovnik) and tasty stewed octopus, as well
the latter three, of course, having had some historical influ- as delicious Carob Cake or a homemade cake with cheese
ence within the region in centuries past.QC‑3, Od Puča and dried figs, for dessert. There’s a tavern attached, so if
MEDITERRANEAN 1, tel. (+385-) 091 332 41 08, www.thepucicpalace.com. you’re waiting for a table you can always grab yourself a
ABOVE 5 RESTAURANT from April Open 17:00 - 24:00. (150 - 240kn). T­J­A­ cool, tall, glass of pivo.QB‑2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4,
Elegant restaurant with a spectacular 360 degree view 6­B­X­W tel. (+385-20) 41 31 00, www.klarisa-dubrovnik.com.
overlooking the ancient red roofs and stone streets of the GUSTA ME Open 10:00 - 24:00. (30 - 220kn). P­T­J­A­6­U­
Old City. Along with a captivating view, they offer delicious This small restaurant sits just above the Ploče Gate and has I­E­G­B­X­W
Mediterranean dishes made with a unique twist. Their a pleasant, if somewhat muted, view of the City walls at LAJK
wine list consists mainly of great local Croatian wines and night. Like most restaurants here it has a sizeable outdoor Central within the Old City, Lajk is so likeable that you can
they are constantly rotating their selections. They also of- terrace, which is excellently sheltered so that bad weather choose to dine in or out or for breakfast through to dinner.
fer breakfast, such as house smoked salmon and avocado, need not force you indoors. The menu has a strong selec- Your morning glory meal (08-12) includes eggs, spreads,
eggs Benedict or Royale, served on beautiful homemade tion of Croatian wines and their food would suit a vegan bruschetta, crepes, croissants, omelettes and more. Lunch
Banje Beach Restaurant Lounge & Club Archives brioche. Reservations are preferred to ensure a seat, as as well as any carnivore. Some of the dishes vary from that and dinner have Dalmatian written all over it; octopus
they fill up quickly and space is limited.QB‑2, Od Sigurate which you might see elsewhere and seem a delight for salad, carpaccio, tuna steak, turkey medallions, Pag lamb
LIGHT BITES 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 44, www.hotelstarigrad.com/
restaurant-2/. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (200 - 250kn). i­T­
anyone looking for something a little bit different.QE‑1, chops and the list goes on. Service with a smile and fair
BUFFET ŠKOLA Hvarska bb, tel. (+385-20) 42 00 13, www.gustame- on the pocket!QPrijeko 4, tel. (+385) 20 32 17 24, www.
J­A­B­X­W dubrovnik.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (50 - 200kn).
A tiny spot just off Stradun where you can nibble some lajk-restaurant-dubrovnik.com/. Open 08:00 - 23:00.
tasty local specialities such as pršut, marinated cheese and AMFORA P­T­A­6­U­G­B­X­S­W (120-260kn). T­A­6­B­W
sardines at fast food prices. Sandwiches are freshly made While this restaurant appears at first to be quite modern
with home baked bread.QC‑2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385- the alcoves and walls are very much adorned with items of
20) 32 10 96/(+385-) 098 909 40 18. Open 09:00 - 22:00. a distinct Mediterranean feel – very Roman indeed. Prices
(14 - 30kn). P­J­N­G­B­W here are definitely cheaper than other similar eateries, ei-
ther New or Old City, but the quality remains just as high.
BURGER TIGER You will be well fed here, have no doubt. If you’re based in
This American-style fast food joint is a unique addition or near the Old City then you should not think twice about
to the Old Town Dubrovnik. They offer a variety of tasty jumping on the bus and crossing the city just to eat here.
hamburgers, hot dogs, tortillas and chicken wings, as QH‑1, Obala Stjepana Radića 26, tel. (+385-20) 41 94 19,
well as yummy fries and onion rings. Sit back and relax in www.amforadubrovnik.com. Open 11:00 - 16:00, 18:00
one of their bright red booths or take a seat in the nar- - 23:00. (115 - 250 kn). P­A­G­B­X­W
row street between the cool stone walls. It’s the perfect
spot for a quick meal while you’re seeing the sites or after a BANJE BEACH RESTAURANT
night out on the town when you get the munchies.QC‑2, A hidden gem right on the beach where you can wine and
Vetranićeva 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 63, www.fastfood- dine with the pebbles and sea a stone throw. The Banje
dubrovnik.com/. Open 10:00 - 02:00. (20 - 75kn). P­T­ Beach Restaurant is elegant in look and service, the de-
J­A­U­G­B­X­S­W cor is a gentle blend of stone and wood which meets the
Mediterranean as does the menu where local ingredients
MR. FRESH predominate. The wine list is broad and covers the local
Looking for a spot to enjoy a healthy, yet tasty treat in the and global pick. All in all, a fine experience to be had!QL‑2,
heart of Dubrovnik? Look no further. At Mr. Fresh you can Frana Supila 11, tel. (+385-20) 41 22 20/(+385-) 099 211
get a savoury smoothie to raise your energy levels as you 96 66, www.banjebeach.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (70 -
explore this beautiful city. To satisfy your hunger they offer 150kn). P­J­A­G­B­W
salads, tortillas and sandwiches. As well, to cool off, they CULTO
offer four flavours of ice cream, which include wild berries, Looking for something out of the Old Town, head towards
jaffa, stracciatella and chocolate. As a special treat, they the port for a menu to suit everyone’s needy taste buds.
also serve cocktails-on-the-go, such as a Mojito, Malibu Culto offers scrumptious risotto, pizza, salads, pasta, fish,
Breeze or Gin-Gin.QB‑3, Od Puča 14, tel. (+385-) 095 936 sandwiches, and burgers. Their soups change almost daily
30 07. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (20 - 45kn). i­T­J­A­B­S and are a great appetiser. The outdoor terrace is dandy for

24 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 25
Restaurants Restaurants
MEZZANAVE RESTAURANT & BAR is to die for! Enjoy the sunshine on your face on a bright
If you’re looking for a restaurant to eat at while you’re out- and sunny day or come up right before sunset for a spec-
side of the old city walls, Mezzanave is the perfect place tacular scene of the sun setting over this gorgeous city.
to check out. Their shopping mall atmosphere brings a QK,L‑1, Srđ Hill (upper station), tel. (+385-20) 31 26 64/
bit of America to this ancient European city. They offer (+385-) 091 486 00 47, www.nautikarestaurants.com.
tasty meals at a much lower price than in the Old City. Open 09:00 - 24:00. September Open 09:00 - 22:00. (70
Their menu includes something to suit everyone’s taste, - 250kn). P­A­G­B­X­W
from salads and pizza to pasta and grilled steaks. Find
menu on their Facebook page: Mezzanave.QI‑2, Dr. Ante RESTAURANT HORIZONT
Starčevića 24, tel. (+385-20) 61 01 19, www.mezzanave. This appetizing new restaurant is located up a timeworn
com. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (42 - 142kn). stone staircase just outside of the Old Town and has an
P­T­A­6­U­L­V­G­B­X­S­W amazing view overlooking Porporela and the Old Harbour.
They offer seasonal meat and fish menus, as well as tra-
NAUTIKA ditional cuisine from not only the Dalmatian region, but
The place to splash out in style – a wonderful terrace also Istria, such as Fresh Dalmatian Tuna Tartar and Beef
overlooking the bay by the Pile gate, and a rather grand Tenderloin in a Truffle Sauce. For dessert, try a delicious
interior - your smelly trainers may raise an eyebrow or two. slice of Chocolate Souffle or Carrot Cake and experience a
Imaginative cuisine inspired by your maritime surround- small taste of paradise in this romantic setting.QE‑1, Put
ings. Expensive, but definitely in a class of its own in Du- od Bosanke 8, tel. (+385-), www.restaurant-horizont.
brovnik dining.QA‑2, Brsalje 3, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 26, com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (110 - 150kn). P­T­A­L­
www.nautikarestaurants.com. Open 18:00 - 24:00. (257 G­B­X­S­W
- 398kn). P­J­A­G­B­X­W
SALVATORE
PANORAMA RESTAURANT & BAR This is the perfect place to grab some of your favourite
It’s hard to find a more breathtaking view of Dubrovnik Croatian snacks, like cheese and prosciutto-style ham or
than from this restaurant. Drive up a narrow road to the shrimp, while taking a break from exploring the city walls.
top of Mount Srđ or take the cable car up and enjoy a tasty And not to mention the breathtaking view that will feed
meal or simply a drink while you look out over the bird’s- your soul.QE‑4, Old City Walls, tel. (+385-20) 63 69 39.
eye view of Dubrovnik and Lokrum. The amazing view Open 08:00 - 18:30.
VAPOR
A Michelin guide restaurant, Bellevue Hotel restaurant is in this peaceful setting.QD‑4, Pobijana 2, tel. (+385-20)
perfectly located near the city centre and commands an 48 49 78, www.paparazzo.hr/. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (100
amazing view of its nearby surroundings. Food includes - 250kn). P­T­J­A­6­G­B­X­W
Dalmatian cuisine with an international twist, this viva-
cious diversity together with an excellent wine list is sure
to satisfy the more refined tongue.QI‑3, Pera Čingrije 7, PIZZA
tel. (+385-20) 33 08 88, www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com/ BARACUDA
en/hotel-bellevue-dubrovnik/restaurants-and-bars/ Claims to be the first pizzeria in town, serving hot pizza pie
vapor-restaurant. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (105 - 320kn). as big as your tummy surrounded by religious landmarks
P­i­T­A­U­L­E­G­B­X­W in the heart of the Old Town!QB/C‑3, Nikole Božidarevića
10, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 60/(+385-) 091 572 62 65. Open
09:30 - 23:30. (35 - 120kn). P­A­G­B­X­S­W
MEET THE MEAT
DOMINO STEAK HOUSE MEA CULPA
A serious convention centre for carnivores of varying Once under Venetian rule, this city restaurant has main-
tastes, offering steaks, fish and seafood in a multitude tained that Italian touch with grandiose pizzas top on the
of styles. The outside seating in a sheltered courtyard menu. Other delights include lasagne and salads. Every-
just south of Stradun is especially lovely in hot weather. thing is done proper from topping to table service. Choose
QB‑3, Od Domina 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 03, www. from eating in or out and the local red is worth a try.QB‑3,
dominorestaurant-dubrovnik.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Za Rokom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 30, www.meaculpa-
(80 - 200kn). P­T­J­A­6­U­G­B­W pizzeria.com/. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (70 - 210kn). P­J­
A­G­B­S­W
PAPARAZZO STEAKHOUSE
One of the newest editions to the Old City, they offer an
array of delicious grilled meats, such as Croatian Beef Fillet
Steak, Croatian Veal T-bone and USA Black Angus Striploin Get the In Your Pocket
in a charming and cozy environment. Located away from City Essentials app
the main hustle and bustle of the town, enjoy a tasty meal

26 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 27
Restaurants Restaurants
TABASCO
The menu catches the eye, if only for the prices. It’s cer-
tainly cheaper than other similar establishments in the im-
mediate area (Tabasco is just outside the walls, between
the Ploče and Buža Gates). Here you can get takeaway, de-
livery, or simply eat in. The restaurant has a great shaded
terrace, from which one can relax, and watch the tourists
pass by in their hundreds. Both local and tourist opinion
has it that this is the best pizza in all of Dubrovnik. The
beer is also some of the cheapest in price.QE‑1, Hvarska
48a, tel. (+385-20) 42 95 95, www.pizzeriatabasco.hr/.
Open 09:30 - 24:00. (32 - 120kn). P­T­A­V­G­B­
X­S­W

SEAFOOD
BARBA
Interested in tasting an octopus hamburger? Now is your
chance! Barba offers delicious octopus hamburgers for
a unique street food experience. As well, try some fried
oysters, tuna calzone or seafood pizza slices. A great spot
for all seafood lovers to eat a quick bite on-the-go or to sit
and relax on a cozy bar stool indoors.QC‑2, Boškovićeva
5, tel. (+385-) 091 205 34 88. Open 10:00 - 24:00. From
June 15th Open 10:00 - 02:00. (35 - 59kn). P­T­J­A­
Nautika Restaurant Archives G­S­W

FISH RESTAURANT PROTO
Proto has a hundred-year tradition and is the hallmark
of Dubrovnik’s culinary scene. Top local chefs expertly
blend old world charms with contemporary trends. The ORSAN VEGETARIAN
menu adapts to the availability of the best local produce The restaurant of Dubrovnik’s yacht club has a reputa-
and freshest fish; providing guests with only the finest NISHTA
tion as one of the evergreen reliable spots for good qual- Jam packed into a street filled with restaurants is this small
Mediterranean cuisine. Proto is not just a holdover from ity food. The emphasis is, appropriately enough, on sea-
a bygone era, it’s an integral part of Dubrovnik’s tour- haven for non-meaty lovers. You’ll find a fusion vegetar-
food. Plenty of terrace seating overlooks the yachts and ian cuisine from all over the world. Choose from falafel,
ism renaissance.QC‑2, Široka 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 34, assorted marine traffic in the Gruž harbour.QH‑2, Ivana
www.esculaprestaurants.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (150 curry, soups, salad bar and much more. The menu also
Zajca 2, tel. (+385-20) 43 68 22, www.restaurant-orsan- contains vegan and gluten-free dishes for those more in
- 250kn). P­A­G­B­X­W dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - 200kn). P­i­ tune with Mother Nature. Enjoy the local wines, beers, and
T­A­6­G­B­X­W home-made juices that Nishta has to offer. A lot of thought
KAMENICE
Kamenice has legions of fans around the world for its huge has gone into the design of the toilets, so make sure you
OYSTER & SUSHI BAR BOTA arrive with a full bladder otherwise you will miss out on
portions of tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices. It’s a This is one of a number of locations around Croatia and
Banje Beach Restaurant Lounge & Club Archives simple place on the market square, near the statue of Mr the joke.QC‑2, Prijeko bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 88, www.
it’s very much fair to say that the Dubrovnik branch is ev- nishtarestaurant.com. Open 11:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
Gundulić.QC‑3, Gundulićeva poljana 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 ery bit as good as that in Zagreb or in Split. The restaurant
36 82. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (58 - 123kn). J­A­B (77 - 95kn). J­A­G­B­X­S­W
staff was exceptionally courteous, and were very helpful
LEVANAT
This slightly isolated place can be reached at the end of
in explaining the items on the menu. The restaurant itself
is entirely outdoors, on a secluded terrace, but there is a Out of town
nice view of the hustle and bustle just below. Although
a beautiful walk along the coast, or by car if you are so
inclined to ignore the scenery. The menu here is heavily
situated at the centre of the Old City it is flanked by the CAVTAT
quieter streets. Ideally suited to a place for a quick bite, or
focused on Dalmatian fish dishes and some of their spe- BUGENVILA IN CAVTAT
a relaxing afternoon repast.QD‑4, Od Pustijerne bb, tel.
cialties are actually made from scratch, meaning a poten- A romantic and picturesque restaurant located along the
(+385-20) 32 40 34, www.bota-sare.hr. Open 11:00 -
tial wait of up to an hour. However the views from the ter- waterfront in Cavtat, tasteful pieces of artwork decorating
24:00. (28 - 135kn). P­J­A­6­G­B­X­W
raced area are breathtaking and there is an attached café the walls and flowers adorning each wooden table, give
for those simply looking to kick back and relax.QF‑2, Nika this restaurant an artsy and creative feel. Their menu is
i Meda Pucića 15, tel. (+385-20) 43 53 52/(+385-) 098 decided based on the fresh ingredients available, as they
995 71 78, www.restaurant-levanat.com. Open 08:00 - facebook.com/ use only fresh fish from the Adriatic and seasonal home-

Photo by Višnja Arambašić
24:00. (80 - 160kn). P­A­G­B­X­W dubrovnikinyourpocket grown vegetables from Mljet and Konavle to create their
spectacular dishes, so the menu is constantly changing.

28 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 29
Restaurants Restaurants
An additional plus is the extremely friendly staff.QObala the best the region has to offer.QGruda, tel. (+385-20)
Ante Starčevića 9, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 99 49, www. 79 15 57/(+385- ) 099 334 10 00. Open 16:00 - 22:30.
bugenvila.eu/. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:30 - 22:00. From (70 - 160kn). T­A­6­L­B­W
June Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:30 - 22:45. (70 - 280kn).
T­A­L­B NATIONAL RESTAURANT KONAVOSKI DVORI
Tables are scattered in thick woods watered by the Ljuta
GALIJA (“angry”) brook, whose force drives the millwheel and
A strong selection of charcoal grilled meats including ex- feeds the trout ponds. Fantastic meat dishes (and trout)
cellent steaks, plus unusual seafood specialities including served by wait staff in traditional Konavle costume. You
shrimps in honey and sea urchins – have a go, if you think may be accompanied by several busloads of tourists.
you’re hard enough! This pleasantly casual stone house QLjuta bb, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 79 10 39/(+385-) 099
has great terraces and is right on the Cavtat waterfront. 251 71 58, www.esculaprestaurants.com/. Open 12:00 -
QVuličevićeva 1, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 85 66, www. 24:00. (80 - 110kn). A­L­G­B­X­W
galija.hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 180kn). P­T­A­6­
U­E­G­B­X­S­W KORČULA
LEUT ADIO MARE
One of the best places to try quality local cooking in Whether it’s the location next to the birthplace of Marco
Cavtat, this little gem on the waterfront in the very cen- Polo, the great charcoal grilled food or the chef who’s apt
tre of this beautiful little town is renowned among locals to burst into song, Adio Mare has been a Mecca for tour-
for its risottos. They don’t mess around when it comes to ists for decades. It’s the one with the queue waiting for a
steaks and seafood either.QTrumbićev put 11, Cavtat, table!QUlica Marca Pola 2, Korčula town, tel. (+385-20)
tel. (+385-20) 47 84 77/(+385-) 098 24 42 25, www. 71 12 53/(+385-) 098 172 52 52, www.konobaadiomare.
restaurant-leut.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 250kn). hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. (90 - 180kn).
P­A­U­G­B­W P­J­A­6­G­B­X­W
ZURE
TORANJ
If you opt to enjoy the shallow, fine sand beaches at Lum-
Situated beside a busy seafront square and with outdoor
barda, don’t miss a meal at this rather special place. The
seating on a first-floor terrace, Toranj does a consistently Above 5 Restaurant Archives
owners catch, rear and grow everything that lands on your
grand job of dishing out the best in Dalmatian cuisine.
table. The food is excellent, and the pomegranate rakija a
Grilled fish and shellfish as usual take up most pages in
the menu, although there’s a solid choice of seafood pasta
unique experience!QLumbarda 239, Korčula, tel. (+385- MLINI
20) 71 23 34/(+385-) 091 512 87 12, www.zure.hr. Open KONOBA MARINERO ter. Great for a romantic meal at sundown, it’s worth the
dishes which - despite being listed as starters - constitute
18:00 - 24:00. (70 - 180kn). A­6­U­G­B­X­W If you happen to be enjoying the fine beaches of Župa trip to this little village just north of Dubrovnik.QDr.Ante
a satisfying main course in their own right. Leave room for
the tasty desserts.QObala A. Starčevića 18, Cavtat, tel. Dubrovačka, be sure to pop into Konoba Marinero in Starčevića 2, Zaton Veliki, tel. (+385-20) 89 10 31, www.
(+385-20) 47 95 77/(+385-) 099 434 12 03. Open 11:00 - LASTOVO Mlini, where you’ll find colourful tables set in lush gardens restaurant-ankora-dubrovnik.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00.
24:00. (80 - 130kn). P­A­6­U­G­B­X­W TRITON overlooking the sea. Great seafood and local specialities (70 - 150kn). A­B­X­W
A frequent stop on yachting trips: there’s a mooring right are carefully prepared by the lady owner – a supremely
relaxing treat.QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. BABILON
KOLOČEP outside the house, and father / chef / fisherman Tonči has
a very special way with island-grown capers. Fish car- (+385-20) 48 72 57/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, www.vivado. When surrounded by the Mediterranean, then eat Medi-
hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 180kn). A­6­L­G­B­W terranean. This casual restaurant offers an array of fish and
VILLA RUŽA paccio, marinated anchovy fillets, octopus salad, home meat dishes of the local order and prepped accordingly!
The sunset from the terrace is unforgettable as the Medi- made Mediterranean herb rakija – it’s all the stuff of With a terrace facing the sea in the Zaton Bay and only
terranean Sea reflects in front of you. Add to that local
Mediterranean specialties served amidst landscaped
dreams!QZaklopatica 15, Lastovo, tel. (+385-20) 80 11 STON 12 km from the Old Town, its tip top for lunch and din-
61/(+385-) 098 177 80 65, www.triton.hr. Open 08:00 - ner.QBulet 1, Zaton Mali, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 82. Open
stone, olive and pine trees surroundings, Villa Ruža is a ha- 24:00. (60 - 200kn). i­N­G­B­X­W VILA KORUNA
The restaurant is known for its pristine oysters, local olives, 08:00 - 24:00. (55 - 140kn). P­i­A­6­L­G­B­W
ven. Chock a block selection of wines. Means of transport
cheese, hams and sensual wines. On offer are also rooms
include regular ferry lines from the Gruž Port or via private
transfer.QDonje Čelo bb, Koločep Island, tel. (+385-20)
LOPUD and suites that have been refurbished with state of the art
ORSAN GVEROVIĆ
This fine family villa has its own beach and moorings, and
75 70 30/(+385-) 098 44 33 82, www.villa-ruza.com. OBALA features. The surroundings are lush and neatly secluded. has enjoyed a cult reputation for good food since open-
Open 12:00 - 24:00. (155 - 215kn). A­B­X­W There can be few better places to relax over a leisurely Friendly staff looks after every detail.QMali Ston, tel. ing in 1966. Best known for its eponymous risotto (an
Adriatic meal than Obala, set right on Lopud’s waterfront (+385-20) 75 49 99/(+385-) 098 34 42 33, www.vila- carnival of seafood) and salad made from motar, a grass
with a trio of stately palm trees offering shade. The menu koruna.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (75 - 150kn). P­J­A­
KONAVLE covers familiar fish and seafood territory with the addi- U­L­G­B­X­W
that grows at the edge of the sea.QŠtikovica 42, Zaton
Mali, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 67/(+385-) 098 27 15 55, www.
KONOBA KORAĆEVA KUĆA tion of several chicken-based alternatives and a succulent gverovic-orsan.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (110 - 200kn).
Located on a sprawling property only a short drive from baked octopus with potatoes. Food prices are moderate;
Dubrovnik, Koraćeva kuća offers stunning views, great sunsets and the sound of lapping sea-water are on the ZATON A­6­L­G­B­X­W
meals and rustic yet chic accommodation. The humble house.QObala Ivana Kuljevana 18, Lopud, tel. (+385- ANKORA
menu sources home-grown organic ingredients to cre- 20) 75 91 70/(+385-) 098 51 27 25, www.obalalopud. The high point of this otherwise excellent fish restaurant Read more reviews online:
ate southern Dalmatian specialties favoured by locals and com. May - October Open 10:00 - 24:00. (150 - 300kn). is the terrace hovering so close to the sea that you could dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
visitors alike. Enjoy a glass of Croatian wine and soak in P­A­G­B­X­W lean over the railing and draw your hand through the wa-

30 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 31
Restaurants Restaurants

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32 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 33
Local Flavour Local Flavour
So, what can you eat in Dubrovnik if you’d like to escape the To accompany your traditional-style meal you’ll want a
grilled fish - grilled meat - pasta trinity? The best answer is drop of the local grape. Where reds are concerned it’s easy.
the same as anywhere: the same as the local people eat The Pelješac peninsula is the home of some of the most
at home. prized wines in Croatia: Dingač and Postup. Redolent
of the sun that warms the rocky vineyards, they’re high
Let’s start with the basics. Šporke makarule is the local ver- in flavour and alcohol and a little bit pricey. Their cheaper
sion of everyone’s favourite: spaghetti bolognaise. Howev- younger brother, Plavac pelješki, is a palatable alterna-
er, with hand-made pasta, small chunks of beef (not mince) tive. For whites, look out for Dubrovnik Malvasia (not the
and fresh tomatoes, it becomes something special. You’ll same thing as Istrian Malvazija). It might be white but it’s
see big vats of the stuff served on the street at Carnival time pretty intense so can go with meats as well as fish.
in February. But even on the hottest day, add a crisp green
salad and you’ve the perfect lunch. And to finish off, you’ll see rožata on many a menu: it’s the
local version of crème caramel. Not so frequently spotted
A more special dish served throughout Dalmatia is is stonska torta made with cooked macaroni. We think
pašticada. There are many variations, but generally a lean there’s no better way than to finish your meal than some
piece of beef is studded with carrot, garlic and smoked ba- fragrant figs (fresh in season, dried at other times), a hand-
con and marinated in wine, oil, vinegar with perhaps a little ful of almonds and a liquer made from oranges, man-
orange and lemon. It’s cooked in a rich sauce, sometimes darins or rose petals.
with prunes, and served with soft gnocci.
And speaking of which, here are a couple of recipes you
A winter warmer that truly displays the spirit of the region might try to bring back sweet memories of your time in
is konavoska zelena menestra. A selection of cured meats Dubrovnik.
(pork, mutton, sausage) is cooked up with winter greens
and potato. When finished, the meat is served on a plate
and the smokily scented veg dished up with a little of the PELJEŠAC WINES
soupy liquid and lashings of olive oil. This dish dates from Those who do not know much about Croatia can be for-
the 16th century; for added historical effect substitute given for not realising that wine is as much a part of life
barley for potato. Fast forward to springtime when broad here as it is Italy, a country which sits on the opposite side
beans are ready for picking: try them cooked with smoked of the Adriatic Sea. In fact, wine has been a part of this re-
mutton, garlic, parsley and bacon fat. gion since the days of the Ancient Greeks, who had set-
Stonska torta, Good Food Festival Archives
To get a little more exotic, consider an excursion north- tled parts of Dalmatia in the 5th century BC, including the
wards to the Pelješac peninsula, where you can treat your- islands of Hvar, Vis, and Korčula (birth place to Marco Polo).
LOCAL DISHES self to Ostrea edulis, otherwise known as the finest oysters In time, the Roman Empire expanded into Dalmatia - then
peopled by the Illyrians - bringing with it more modernised
Despite Dubrovnik having centuries-old trading connec- in the world, prepared in a million different ways. While
you’re there, look out also for butarga (dried flathead mul- methods of cultivation, and under Roman rule Dalmatian
tions across the globe, the cuisine of this region is very wine saw itself being exported to other parts of the Medi-
much based on the gifts of nature in this part of the world. let roe); there are a couple of families here who still prepare
this rare delicacy. terranean, and beyond. Eventually the Croats would come
Classic Dubrovnik cuisine is seasoned with parsley, garlic, to live here, and they saw fit to further expand the region’s
olive oil and lemon, and perhaps a touch of rosemary or Further north still, the Neretva river estuary is home to all wine production. Croatian wines would be welcome at the
bay leaf if the chef is on the adventurous side. A true Medi- kinds of aquatic life and a magnet for culinary adventur- Austrian and Hungarian courts, and with many a farmer re-
terranean experience, you might say. ers. Fancy a plateful of snails cooked over an open fire? Eel lying on his own vines to keep him in wine then you could
cooked in a rich brudet sauce? Frog risotto, perhaps? It’s the be assured that quality levels were kept quite high.
This tendency to eschew more exotic ingredients can be a
double-edged sword. On the one hand, the city’s menus perfect end to a watery day’s safari.
The country’s history being what it is it’s perhaps not such
can seem somewhat repetitive. On the other hand, what a surprise to discover that some of the wineries are not so
you eat is fresh, natural and, in the better restaurants, local. well known, even nationally, but it won’t be long before
The simplicity of the preparation lets the flavours of high all of that will change. Here, we’ll look some of the more
quality ingredients do the work. It’s hard to beat a good tempting local wines.
piece of meat or fish grilled over charcoal with a salad
freshly picked from a hinterland garden. Plavac Mali, or Little Blue, is a variety of red grape closely
related to Zinfandel and Primitivo. It is grown almost ex-
In defence of simple cooking, experiments with “imagina- clusively on the western side of the island of Hvar and the
tive” cuisine can be like playing Russian roulette. In anything Pelješac peninsula. The wine it produces tends towards a
but the most skilled hands and pedantic husbandry the deep purple-red colour, high in tannins, extract, and alco-
result can be disappointing. For example, in Provence, as hol. Normally presenting a rich, dry taste, the better vin-
Financial Times food columnist Rowley Leigh complained tages will be more mild and sweet. Those who know such
bitterly in summer 2012, it’s hard find an authentic bouilla- things recommend that such reds be enjoyed with red
baisse or ratatouille these days. Peasant food gains elevated meat dishes, black olives, and salted anchovies. Dingač is
status and loses its guts. Croatian food is still unfashionably a variety of Plavac Mali and is considered by many to be
plentiful and full of flavour, and all the better for it. Good Food Festival Archives the Holy Grail of local wines, and can only be grown in this

34 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 35
Local Flavour Local Flavour
region as a result of very specific geographical conditions. is flexible enough then it’s well worth taking the day to get their Navis Mysrerium, Edivo Dingač and Plavac.QDrače
Such is its importance to Dalmatia that in 1961 it fell under as many wineries and vineyards in as possible. Make sure 18a, Drače, Pelješac Peninsula, tel. (+385) 91 174 12 06,
the protection of the Geneva Convention, the first Croatian you find yourself near Ston, because you’ll want to sample www.edivovina.hr/. Open 09:00 - 23:00. A­W
wine to do so. It is of a deep ruby red colour, of an excep- the oysters as well as the wine.
tionally unique and luxurious bouquet, a nicely accentu- GRGIĆ VINA
WINE TRAILS & GASTRO TOURISM QTrstenik 78, 20245 Trstenik, tel. (+385-) 098 16 31 569/
ated aroma, and a harmonious fullness of taste. Dingač was Wine trails, or roads, are an important economic tool for any
joined in 1967 by Postup, a top-quality red wine created (+385-) 098 24 36 78, www.grgic-vina.com. Open 09:00
region such as the Pelješac peninsula. When you’re not only - 19:00 and by prior arrangement.
from the grapes of the Plavac Mali variety, exclusively from removed from the centre of the continent but from your
the location of Postup, which is on the southern slopes of own country too, you must do all in your power to ensure SKARAMUČA WINESHOP AND WINE BAR
the Pelješac peninsula. Postup is a darker red, with a full, that your tourism sector is doing its best to attract - and Wine shop Pijavičino i Viganj - Open for public from May
harmonious taste with a touch of crispness. keep - as many visitors as possible. to October from 9 am to 9 pm.QC‑2, Dropčeva 2, tel.
Now, while it’s true that Dalmatians prefer red wine to (+385-) 098 73 75 42/(+385-) 098 26 16 84, www.
Wine trails are not a new concept as well worn roads dingac-skaramuca.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00.
white (the opposite would be the case in Croatia over- emerged over centuries of use as producers moved their
all), there are more than a few high quality whites avail- wine to market. The more worn the road the more popular VINARIJA KORTA KATARINA
able. Rukatac, however, is the gleaming jewel in Dalmatia’s - it’s reasonable to assume - the wines which are produced QUl. Bana Josipa Jelačića 3, Orebić, tel. (+385-) 020 71
crown. An endangered grape to be sure, it is indigenous within its vineyards. Alongside these wine trails a healthy 38 17/(+385-) 099 81 51 655, www.kortakatarinawinery.
to the peninsula. It can be found from Prevlaka to the gastro-tourism sector is developing; after all, you do need com/. Open by prior arrangement.
Croatian coast, and again on the islands of Korčula and Las- to eat if you’re going to be drinking several glasses of wine
tovo. Wines made from rukatac are ideal for dessert wines, over the course of a day. With Dalmatia offering a variety of VINARIJA MILOŠ
known as prošek. It is often greenish to golden colour with local and Mediterranean, you’re never likely to try the same QPonikve/Boljenovići 15, Ston, tel. (+385-) 098 96 56
an extremely pleasant bouquet. Like most other whites, dish twice even if you’re dining out each night of a holiday. 880, www.milos.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
this is best while it is still young to drink during the first or
possibly second year. EDIVO WINE BAR WINE SHOP&BAR PENINSULA
Plavac Mali Vineyards If you don’t know, Edivo is a company that produces wine QDonja Banda bb, Oskorušno, tel. (+385-) 098 28 58 24,
There are other producers on the peninsula of course, and in the Pelješac peninsula which is then stored for up to two www.peninsula.hr. Open 09:00 -19:00. A­B­W
it would be remiss to neglect names such as Korta Katarina, years beneath the sea. The result is an aromatic top qual-
Skaramuča, Madirazza, Matuško, to list but a few. The area’s ity aged wine presented with layers of coral and shell over
wineries are generally inclined towards a wholly welcom- the bottle. Totally unique! You can even dive to see this pinterest.com/inyourpocket
ing atmosphere, with Udruga pelješki vinski puti (Associa- for real… Edivo now have their Wine Bar which include
tion of Pelješac Wine Trails) and Plavac mali being just two
associations which put considerable effort into ensuring
grape quality and the promotion of the peninsula’s wine
growers and wine trails.
Detailing any one of the many wine trails would take too
much time and too many print inches. Needless to say that
any tourist may put their fate in the hands of a seasoned
local or tour guide and take advice from them - or put the
effort in and plan your own tour of this Croatian exclave.
More than a few tour operators will bring buses and boats
Good Food Festival Archives onto the peninsula from Split and Trogir, and if you’re time

DUBROVNIK FOOD STORY takes you to the best wine region this side of the Adri-
atic as you visit charming family run wine cellars, see
Your Food Guide in Dubrovnik windy steep slopes covered with vineyards, and oyster
For the complete food and wine experience, this com- farms. New to the list is the ‘GOT to Taste it tour’ cus-
pany packs in some mouth-watering offers. Pick and tomised for Game of Thrones fans who get to see film
choose from their selective tours which embrace a fu- locations and a three course themed meal dedicated
sion of history, gastronomy, tradition and local ambi- to the series. Choose from the ‘Basic Tour (2.5hrs) or the
ence. Opt from their ‘Dubrovnik on a Plate – Eat and Extended Tour (4hrs)’. All in all, each tour is made for last-
Walk tour’ by visiting four culinary gems in the heart ing impressions as your job is to simply toast, drink and
of town whilst hearing some cracking stories of histori- eat. Regular tours are in English but for bigger groups
cal sites in between. The ‘Pick.Cook.Eat - Traditional they offer private tours in French, German, Spanish and
Cooking Class tour’ takes you to a typical family coun- Italian. Bookings in advance are essential and starting
try home where you handpick your ingredients straight times vary for each tour. For further details, visit www.
from the garden and along with your hearty hosts, whip dubrovnikfoodstory.com and as they WARN; an empty
up some immaculate traditional dishes. The ‘Hop on glass is strictly forbidden.Qtel. (+385-20) 29 51 44,
hiccup food and wine tour - Pelješac Gourmet’ www.dubrovnikfoodstory.com.

36 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 37
Coffee & Cakes Nightlife
CELTIC BAR BELFAST
COFFEE ‘The Belfast’ is a café situated near Kralj Tomislav, and
BIKER’S CAFE while there is a lack of Irish beers it is certainly a welcom-
Perched up in a neighbourghood just above Ploče, this ing and relaxing place, in which to enjoy a kava or a small
place is worth seeking out to meet up with bike fans from beer during the warm Dubrovnik days. The interior is fes-
around the world. The friendly staff will try their best to tooned with Celtic FC memorabilia, and the fittings and
sort you out with a place to stay.QL‑2, Petra Krešimira IV fixtures are far from clichéd bric-a-brac usually associated
39, tel. (+385-) 098 68 07 11. Open 07:00 - 01:00. P­N­ with such places.QG‑2, Marka Marulića 21. Open 07:00 -
B­X­W 02:00. P­T­6­N­G­B­X­W

CAVE BAR MORE FASHION CAFÉ
This natural cave, located under Hotel More, has, with a In the heart of Lapad, this is a café dedicated to those
little help from the human hand, been transformed into who know their Bvlgari from their Balenciaga, with even
a delightfully relaxing bar. No music is played here: your the occasional fashion show going on. Sunglasses the size
thoughts and conversations are accompanied only by the of dinner plates are mandatory.QH‑2, Kralja Tomislava
sound of the sea. Enjoy a cocktail and give rein to your 7. Open 06:00 - 23:00. From June Open 06:00 - 02:00.
imagination!QF‑2, Kardinala Stepinca 33 (Hotel More), P­6­N­G­B­X­W
tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00, www.cavebar-more.com. Open
10:00 - 22:00. From June Open 10:00 - 24:00. A­W FESTIVAL
This coffee house right on Stradun is the place where lo-
cal bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate to chew the fat,
CAKES literally and metaphorically. You can pick up a well-priced
DOLCE VITA light lunch special here, and the terrace location couldn’t
This colourful little spot does great cakes, muffins be better.QD‑2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 48, www.
and ice cream – among the best in town – just off cafefestival.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00. From April Open
Stradun.QC‑2, Nalješkovićeva 1a, tel. (+385-20) 32 07:30 - 02:00. P­T­A­6­G­B­X­W
16 66/(+385-) 098 944 99 51. Open 09:00 - 24:00.
GLAM CAFÉ
P­N­B
If you fancy a healthy breakfast you might try here: as well
GOSSIP ICECREAM DUBROVNIK as coffee, they do excellent fresh juices and smoothies. In
If you’re looking for a quick snack while exploring Du- the evening, this is a good place to get the night off to
brovnik then GosSip is the perfect spot to stop by. Lo- a good start with one of their range of cocktails or craft
cated on Stradun, they offer tasty salads, sandwiches beers.QC‑2, Palmotićeva 5. Open 09:00 - 24:00. From
and hotdogs, as well as various ice cream flavours and June Open 09:00 - 02:00. P­J­6­N­G­B­X­W
frozen yogurt to satisfy your sweet tooth. As well, they
even have mojitos-to-go, a refreshing drink to cool you LIBERTINA (LUĆI)
off as you roam the ancient city. Also at Placa 3 un- Cosy, snug, intimate – all words to describe some place
der the name Eat&Sweet!QC‑2, Boškovićeva 1, tel. small, and indeed small it is, but it also the oldest café
(+385-) 098 950 67 22, www.icecream-dubrovnik. within the walls, and not even 35 years old at that. Opened
com. Open 08:00 - 22:00. From June Open 08:00 - specifically for locals it would be fair to describe this place
02:00. (10 - 50kn). T­J­N­S as Dubrovnik’s best kept secret. Opened by Lući, one of
the famed Dubrovački trubaduri it should really be on
PUPICA your list of places to enjoy a beer or two. Don’t be sur-
Situated in the Old City, Pupica is the sort of patisser- prised if you find you’re sitting in someone’s seat though.
rie (slastičarnica) which would be right at home in A thoroughly enjoyable experience.QD‑2, Zlatarska
almost any European city, town, or village, of charac- 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 26. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 20:00 -
ter. Teas, coffees, and juices are a given, but it’s the 24:00. 6­G­B­X­W
wide selection of homemade cakes and confectionary
which offers a relaxing and refreshing change from SOUL CAFFE
the cafe culture of Croatia. This should be a definite This vintage chic cafe and rakija bar, hidden within the
on any list of places to visit, and you’ll likely find your- backstreets of the Old City, is the perfect spot to kick back
self making any excuse just to stop by and sample yet and relax with some friends. The musically inspired dim
another slice of whatever has taken your fancy.QC‑3, atmosphere offers a great environment for a low-key night
Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. (+385-) 099 216 54 54, www. out on the town. For some fresh air, there’s additional seat-
pupodubrovnik.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00. P­T­ ing outside, tucked in between the historic stone walls.
J­A­6­U­G­B­X­W QC‑3, Uska ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 095 199 85 07. Open
08:00 - 02:00. P­i­T­J­A­6­E­G­B­X­W

www.inyourpocket.com

38 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 39
Nightlife Nightlife
CASINO
MERIT CASINO LIBERTAS
Try your luck at the only casino in the city which is lo-
cated in the Rixos Hotel. Choose from slot machines to
live game tables which feature Black Jack, Caribbean
Poker to American Roulette amongst others. The buf-
fet is a fusion of European and Balkan cuisine with an
‘A La Carte’ menu available if pre-ordered. The finest
whiskey and cigars are available so there’s no better
place to hit the jackpot!QLiechtensteinov put 3, tel.
(+385-) 20 22 08 00, www.spiritofmerit.com. Open
12:00 - 06:00. A­W

BARS
ART CAFFE
Photo by Igor Brautović, Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives Unremarkable at first glance, step inside and you’ll dis-
cover a shabby-chic haven, with couches made from old-
fashioned bathtubs and tables from re-“cycled” (ha ha)
washing machine drums. Cocktails, creativity and smooth-
ies all in one small but perfect package.QK‑3, Branitelja
Dubrovnika 25, tel. (+385-) 095 866 04 11. Open 09:00
- 02:00. G­B­X­W
BUŽA
What a place to sit – rocky terraces overlooking the open
sea south of the Old Town. There’s no running water here
so bottled drinks only - which are pretty pricey - but the
laid back music and hedonistic mood make up for every-
thing.QD‑4, Outside the city walls near St.Stephen’s
tower, tel. (+385-) 098 36 19 34. Open 08:00 - 02:00 or
according to weather conditions. B
BUZZ BAR
Located parallel to Stradun, this lively bar offers an array of
drinks to enjoy with your friends during a night out on the
Lazareti Archives town. For those who like sweet drinks they have a long list
of various cocktails. They also offer a variety of local Croa-
tian beers, such as Zmajsko Pale Ale and Grička Vještica,
an extra strong dark beer. As well, for a special treat, they
host live music nights.QC‑2, Prijeko 21, tel. (+385-20) 32
10 25. Open 08:00 - 02:00. P­J­6­U­E­B­X­W
MIRAGE
Located in the Old City of Dubrovnik, just behind the Ca-
thedral in the Bunic Square, Caffe Bar Mirage provides an
excellent service while creating a unique experience for
every guest. With an offer, ranging from warm beverages
to the most famous cocktails in town, this vibrant bar is a
popular local and tourist hangout.QC‑3, Bunićeva polja‑
na 3, tel. (+385-) 091 400 90 78. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat
and Sun 08:00 - 02:00. From May Open 08:00 - 02:00.
P­J­A­B­X­W
NONE NINA
A perfect spot for people-watching on comfy loungers
Buzz Bar Archives right opposite the Rector’s Palace – you can see people
climbing about on the city walls. This place does coffees
by day and shakes the cocktails by night. The toilets are
designed for the fairy people.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 4,
instagram.com/inyourpocket tel. (+385-) 098 915 99 09, www.nonenina.com. Open
09:00 - 02:00. P­A­E­B­W
40 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 41
Nightlife Nightlife
ROCK CAFFE EXIT LAZARETI
Bar on the first floor of a small building, just off the Stradun, These superb stone spaces in the former quarantine house
not visible but audible from the outside. It has very good are given over to happenings of an arty/underground na-
acoustics and friendly staff. Altogether a good atmosphere ture, including quality DJs spinning electronica. An inter-
to start the night out.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 4, tel. (+385-) national multimedia festival is held here, which includes
095 914 54 62. Open 18:00 - 02:00. P­J­E­N­X­W independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and
more. For info on programme check their FB.QL‑2, Frana
CLUBS Supila bb, www.lazareti.com. Open Thu - Sat 22:00 -
05:00.
BANJE BEACH NIGHT CLUB
The Banje beach at Ploče is where posers come to perfect
their tans, since Beach Club rents out funky loungers and LOUNGE BARS
screens to protect one’s privacy from the hoi polloi. This
bar churns out cocktails and keeps ‘em dancing ‘til The CULTO
Man says go home.QL‑2, Frana Supila 10b, tel. (+385-20) Escape the scorching summer heat and cool off at Culto!
41 22 20/(+385-) 099 211 96 66, www.banjebeach.com. What makes this bar unique is its exquisitely decorated in-
From July 8 Open Sat 22:00 - 04:00. P­A­B­W terior and good atmosphere. Definitely worth a visit, it has
a vibe and attracts a bubbly crowd.QI‑4, Iva Vojnovića
CULTURE CLUB REVELIN 39a, tel. (+385-) 099 314 64 96. Open 08:00 - 04:00,
Back in the day, the 15th century Revelin Fortress used to Open 08:00 - 00:00, Sat 08:00 - 04:00 , Sun 10:00 - 00:00.
protect the city from robust invaders, nowadays it is home P­A­6­X­W
to the vivacious Revelin nightclub. Its two floors are often
jam-packed with punters dancing to local and interna-
tional music. The terrace is a great escape for some fresh PUBS
air and its seaside views.QE‑1, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort Rev‑ GAFFE PUB
elin), tel. (+385-) 098 53 35 31, www.clubrevelin.com. For a low key night out on the town, slide down one of the
Open 23:00 - 06:00. P­A­W side streets off of Stradun and into this Irish inspired Pub.
The dark green walls adorned with Irish paraphernalia and
thick wooden tables give the place an Irish feel. Enjoy a
youtube.com/inyourpocket sporting event on one of the many large screen TVs with
some friends as you savour a Guinness, Carling or Erdinger

beer. They also offer a variety of dishes and snacks if you MATUŠKO
get the munchies, such as Hummus, Caesar Salad Chicken This local family, known for producing some of the finest
Wings or BBQ Ribs.QC‑3, Miha Pracata 4, tel. (+385-20) wines from Potomje, a village located in the Peljašac re-
64 01 52. Open 09:00 - 02:00. P­J­A­6­G­B­X­W gion, goes by the motto, “Svi smo mi Mato Matuško samo
je Dundo Bobo.” Their wine bar, located in the Old City is a
IRISH PUB KARAKA a great spot to unwind from a busy day. Sit back and relax
This popular meeting spot is a must during your trip to in this cozy brick and stone environment with a glass of
Dubrovnik. It’s a delightful and lively place to enjoy a drink award-winning Royal Dingač or Pošip. They also are cur-
with your friends while you’re out visiting the Old Town. rently the only place in Dubrovnik where you can smoke
Big screen TVs show the latest sporting events, while this shisha.QC‑2, Prijeko 6, tel. (+385-) 099 807 08 02, www.
fun-filled pub is always filled with people pouring out matusko-vina.hr. Open 10:00 - 02:00. P­T­J­A­6­
into the stone streets of Dubrovnik.QC‑2, Između polača E­G­B­X­W
5, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 70, www.irishpubkaraka.com.
Open 09:00 - 02:00. P­T­J­A­U­G­B­X­W RAZONODA WINE BAR
This wine and Croatian tapas bar is one of the newest ad-
WINE BARS ditions to the Old Town. It’s part of the Pucić Palace Hotel
and has a refined and gentlemen’s club feel. They offer the
D’VINO
finest Croatian wines, from the Pelješac region in south-
In a narrow street just off the Stradun, this is a great place
ern Croatia, to Istra in the northwest and Slavonia in the
for sampling local tipple by the glass, with good advice on
northeast. As a snack, munch on some pršut, cheese or
what to try from the friendly staff. Attracts a good mix of
marinated anchovies. There’s also plenty of unique drink
locals and tourists, most of whom end up engaged in half-
options for all non-wine lovers to try, such as craft beer
sozzled conversation on the stone steps outside. Along
from Croatian Garden brewery, cocktails and an array of
with wine, you can enjoy the home made delicacies such
domestic liquors brands.QC‑3, Od puča 1, tel. (+385-)
as prosciutto, cheese, kulen, olives, and a bit of this to a bit
091 332 41 04. Open 12:00 - 24:00. P­A­G­W
of that for a Dalmatian sensation. Breakfast is served 8:00
- 14:00.QC‑2, Palmotićeva 4a, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 30,
www.dvino.net. Open 10:00 - 02:00. i­J­A­G­B­W www.inyourpocket.com

44 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 45
Sightseeing Sightseeing
monastery here was founded in the 11th century, appar-
ently by grateful citizens after being spared from a great
fire in Dubrovnik. Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximil-
ian Joseph built a summer house and formal gardens here,
and a botanical garden was founded in 1959 – Lokrum is
now a Nature Reserve. Lokrum’s hills are topped by a star
shaped fort built by the French in 1806, from which you
have great views.QL‑3, tel. (+385-20) 31 17 38/(+385-)
099 254 67 77, www.lokrum.hr. Boats leave every 30
or 60 minutes depending on the season, the amount of
visitors and weather therefore we suggest you contact
the office for further information. A return ticket costs
120kn per person, for kids until the age of 15, 20kn.

STRADUN, PLACA
When talking about finding your way around town, you’ll
often hear people referring to Stradun, which you won’t
see on any street signs. It’s the unofficial name for the
main street Placa that joins the two main entrances to
the Old Town at Ploče in the east and Pile in the west. The
name comes from the Italian strada, meaning street. With
Photo by Igor Brautović, Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives its shining limestone flags and the uniform baroque build-
ings that line it, it is itself one of the best known sights of
Dubrovnik. It’s the place people bump into and chat with
ESSENTIAL DUBROVNIK friends on their daily business, and dress up for a stroll in
DOMINICAN MONASTERY (DOMINIKANSKI the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks the divid-
SAMOSTAN) ing line between the earliest settlement and the parts
The Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the of the city that followed. This first settlement was on the
13th century, and with the building of their monastery a land south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek
century later, they became an important part of the city’s for rock, since it was originally an island. From the name
defences – the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Laus came Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus
Old Town, vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful has probably been inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the
stone steps lead up to the complex – notice that the balus- 4th century, it was colonised in the 7th century by Greco-
trades have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking Roman refugees from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later,
up devout ladies’ skirts! As befits the monastery’s strate- Slavs settled the land across the narrow, marshy channel –
gic position, from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside this settlement was called Dubrava, from the Slav word for
hides a jewel of a gothic and renaissance cloister (1456- “oak tree”. The channel was filled in during the 12th cen-
1469), with a thick carpet of grass in the centre. The in- tury, thus creating Stradun, and the two towns integrated
terior of the monastery church is delightfully simple, with and began to build the city walls.QB/C‑2.
a sweeping wooden roof and some fine stone furniture.
THE CHURCH OF ST BLAISE (CRKVA SV. VLAHA)
The Dominican monastery, like the Franciscan, holds an
Named after the saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is per-
important library and collection of art including a painting
haps the church most beloved of the city’s people. Sitting
of Dubrovnik before the great earthquake by local master
four square on Stradun, its stained glass windows by lo-
Nikola Božidarević that has been invaluable to historians in
cal artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at night make a wonder-
reconstructing the look of the Old Town, as well as impor-
ful show. A church has stood on this spot since 1368, but
tant works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano and Vlaho Bukovac
following a fire, the present church (1717) was built in Ba-
of neighbouring Cavtat. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:30,
roque style by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli, who was
11:00 and 19:00.QD‑2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. (+385-20) 32
also sculptor of the statue of St Blaise standing above the
22 00. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 30/20 kn.
entrance to the church, protectively holding a scale model
LOKRUM ISLAND of the Old Town in his hand. The church’s front steps are
You don’t have to travel far to experience the tranquillity of the setting for some of the most important events of the
island life: The island of Lokrum is a mere 15 minute boat life of the city, including New Year’s Eve and the opening
cruise. It’s one of the best spots for a swim. The island’s night of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, which always
shores are rocky, but the peace and the racket of crickets used to include a concert by legendary renaissance-pop
are something else, there’s a tiny saltwater lake which is group and Eurovision contestants The Troubadours. Mass
perfect for kids, and there’s a naturist beach to the east of in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment.
the jetty. Thick pine forests have been complemented by QD‑3, Luža 3. Open 07:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00, Sunday
cultivated gardens first begun by Benedictine monks - the 07:00 - 13:00. August Open 07:00 - 24:00. No admission.

46 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 47
Sightseeing Sightseeing
THE CITY WALLS, BASTIONS AND PILE & PLOČE reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city.Qtel. +385 (0)20
GATES (GRADSKE ZIDINE, TVRĐAVE, GRADSKA 63 88 00/+385 (0)20 63 88 01, www.citywallsdubrovnik.
VRATA PILE, VRATA OD PLOČA) hr. Open 08:00-18:30. From May Open 07:00 - 18:30.
Almost two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik’s city walls Admission 150/50 kn.
are among the best preserved and most attractive on this
planet, and a walk along them is an absolute must. The de- THE FRANCISCAN MONASTERY OF THE
fences were built between the 8th and the 16th centuries. FRIARS MINOR AND THE OLD PHARMACY
The fact that on the land side they are almost 6m thick in (FRANJEVAČKI SAMOSTAN I STARA APOTEKA
places shows their primary purpose as defence against at- MALE BRAĆE)
tack from the mountainous hinterland – the Ottoman Em- The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is
pire, for example, lay just a few kilometers inland. The walls an absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old
were strengthened by myriad towers and bastions, and frescoes, and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden
were never breached – the Republic of Dubrovnik only where orange trees grow. The monastery is most famous
fell after Napoleon’s armies were invited in on condition for its pharmacy, among the oldest in Europe and the old-
that they would respect its independence. Two further est one still working. The monastery houses a museum
fortresses, Revelin to the east and Lovrijenac, on a head- where you can see original items from the pharmacy,
land just west of the Old Town, provided additional stra- plus an extensive library with precious incunabula, manu-
tegic defence. Revelin is a venue for concerts during the scripts, a large collection of musical notations and a trea-
Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Lovrijenac is one of the most sury of artworks. Outside the Church of the Little Brothers
atmospheric venues of the festival, with traditional perfor- on Stradun you’ll see a lovely relief of the Pieta, and, on
mances of Hamlet taking place under the stars. Your ticket a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height. The trick is
to the city walls includes entrance to Lovrijenac, and it’s to stand on it facing the wall – it’s the test of a real man!
well worth visiting. It was for some time used as a prison, Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00.
and is surrounded by delightful parkland with some of the QD‑2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 10, www.malabraca.
best views of the city, a great picnic spot. The Minčeta fort, wix.com/malabraca. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission
just north of the Pile gate, with its stylized battlements, is 30/15 kn.
one of the symbols of the city, and St John’s fortress hous- THE RECTOR’S PALACE (KNEŽEV DVOR)
es the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart from the One of the loveliest buildings in the city and the seat of the
fortresses, each of which has its own story and character, Rector, the figurehead of the Republic elected within the
the Pile and Ploče gates are also masterpieces. From these nobility, whose term lasted for just one month confining and its current appearance is mainly thanks to the renais- modern paintings and sculpture which encompasses al-
gates, you now access the Old Town over stone bridges him to these quarters which he could only leave on official sance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and Michelozzo most all important artists since the beginning of the 20th
ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled with occasions and religious holidays. The building changed its Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations were added century.QL‑5, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65
park benches and orange trees. Above the gates you’ll see appearance after two explosions of gunpowder stored here, in baroque style in the 17th century following the earth- 90, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed
quake, and since the original building by Onofrio della Cava, Mon. Unified ticket costing 120kn for adults,100kn for
creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was in gothic groups (10+ persons) and 25kn for students and pupils
style, the result is a blend of styles which is timelessly ro- includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum,
mantic. The palace’s frontage has a delightful colonnade Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeo‑
with choir style decorative stone benches. Inside, a beauti- logical exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art
ful courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts. The pal- Gallery, Natural History Museum and Dulčić, Masle,
ace is now a Cultural History Museum where you can view Pulitika Gallery.
the richly appointed offices and quarters of the Rector, plus
the arsenal, courtroom and prison cells. Artworks, costumes OTOK GALLERY, ARL (GALERIJA OTOK, ARL)
and domestic objects of the period are all on display.QD‑3, A gallery in the Dubrovnik Lazaret – the former quarantine
Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97, www.dumus.hr. houses – which now houses an artists’ community, includ-
Open 09:00 - 18:00, Open from June 1 due to renovation. ing workshops and this gallery. Contemporary local art of
Unified ticket costing 120kn for adults, 100kn for groups an excellent standard.QL‑2, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-20)
(10+ persons) and 25kn for students and pupils includes 32 46 33. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admis‑
entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnograph‑ sion free.
ic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhib‑
THE ATELIER OF DUBRAVKA LOŠIĆ
it, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural
The Atelier of Dubravka Lošić provides art lovers with a
History Museum and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery. J
peak into the mind and soul of one of Dubrovnik’s premier
modern artists. Ms. Lošić combines several mediums and
GALLERIES artistic genres: painting, installation pieces and costume
DUBROVNIK ART GALLERY (UMJETNIČKA design. The Atelier is housed in an industrial space and
GALERIJA DUBROVNIK) features some of her ongoing projects. Visits are available
This 1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče by appointment only.QObala Stjepana Radića 2, tel.
is the place to see an extensive collection of Croatian (+385-) 91 439 13 53, www.dubravkalosic.com/.
Great Onofrio’s Fountain, Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

48 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 49
Sightseeing Sightseeing
THE SPONZA PALACE (PALAČA SPONZA) DUBROVNIK CABLE CAR Fountain, with its huge central dome and sixteen wa-
For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik’s buildings, The 778 meter journey gives you breathtaking views over ter taps all around. A ledge and steps around the water
with its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic and re- the Old City. The upper station has two panoramic ter- trough provide a perfect resting spot for tired sightseers.
naissance detail, this was always a public building. Directly races equipped with binocular telescopes, a snack bar, a The fountain is the end point of the aqueduct that archi-
facing Orlando’s column, the scene of all dramas of pub- panoramic restaurant, a souvenir shop and more. The low- tects Onofrio dell Cava and Andriuzzi de Bulbilo built from
lic life, Sponza housed the Republic’s mint and customs er station is at the beginning of King Petar Krešimir Street a source near the river, almost 12km away, one of the first
house – all the Republic’s trade passed through here. (opposite the fire station) where tickets can be bought, aqueducts to be built on the territories of today’s Croatia.
It was built 1516-1522 according to designs by Paskoje also in Restaurant Panorama at the top of Mount Srđ, or Completed in 1438, the fountain was once more ornate
Miličević. Today, the graceful atrium is used as an exhibi- in Restaurant Dubravka close to the Pile Gates where you with a massive cupola, but was damaged in the great
tion space and venue for recitals. A room to the left as you can pay in kuna or by credit card. From other places (e.g. earthquake and never repaired. Onofrio’s small fountain is
enter is dedicated to the memory of fallen soldiers dur- travel agencies and souvenir shops) tickets are payable in an elegant little masterpiece decorated with playful dol-
ing the siege of Dubrovnik 1991-92 (Open 10:00 - 22:00. euro.QL‑2, Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 53 phins that stands near the tower at the other end of Stra-
Admission free). The upper galleries were once the place 93, www.dubrovnikcablecar.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. dun.QB‑2, D‑3, Poljana Paska Miličevića, Pred Dvorom.
where the city’s artists and intellectuals held salons. The Round-trip ticket 130/60 kn.
building also contains the Dubrovnik State Archives, a trea- ORLANDO’S COLUMN (ORLANDOV STUP)
sure trove of documentation on the Republic. In the gift GUNDULIĆ SQUARE (GUNDULIĆEVA POLJANA) In front of the Church of St Blaise stands a column with a
Photo by Igor Brautović, Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives shop on the ground floor you can buy replicas of these This square is named after the long-haired chappie stand- carving of Orlando (or Roland), nephew of Charlemagne
historic documents; the archives themselves are mainly ing in the centre – one Ivan Gundulić, a Dubrovnik states- and legend of minstrel ballads embodying freedom and
here for research purposes.QD‑2, Svetog Dominika 1, tel. man and Baroque poet whose verse set the standard for nobility. The column was raised in 1418, and from that
(+385-20) 32 10 32, www.dad.hr. Open 10:00 - 22:00. literary Croatian which is still accepted today. The statue to date the flag of St Blaise flew here right until the end of
Admission 25kn. him was erected in 1893. Gundulić’s poems were hymns to the Republic. Today you’ll see the white Libertas flag sym-
his home city and the struggles of the Slav nations against bolizing the city’s enduring spirit of independence. This
WAR PHOTO LIMITED rival powers. The square bordered by elegant shops, res- spot was once the marketplace and to some extent still
A gallery dedicated to thought-provoking images of war taurants and homes is the Old Town’s fruit market in the is the political ‘heart’ of the city: it was the place where
by leading photographers – essential for anyone inter- mornings.QC/D‑3. citizens were once summoned to hear state decrees and
ested in the nature of conflict or simply in stunning – if to witness punishments. Orlando’s right forearm was used
sometimes disturbing – images.QC‑2, Antuninska 6, ONOFRIO’S FOUNTAINS – GREAT AND SMALL as the standard for the traditional Dubrovnik measure for
tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, www.warphotoltd.com. Open (VELIKA I MALA ONOFRIJEVA FONTANA) trading fabric – a Ragusan cubit or lakat (elbow) – you can
10:00 - 22:00. Admission 50/40 kn. One of the first spectacular sights that greets you when see the rather more convenient measure near the bottom
you enter Stradun from the Pile Gate is the Great Onofrio of the sculpture.QD‑2, Pred Dvorom.
LANDMARKS
BONINOVO CLIFFS
Photo by Stjepan Felber
It might be considered somewhat morbid that such an
infamous location is becoming more and more a tourist
THE DULČIĆ, MASLE, PULITIKA GALLERY/RON- attraction; the Boninovo Cliffs are known to the locals as
ALD BROWN MEMORIAL HOUSE (GALERIJA a popular (though we are loathe to use such a word as
DULČIĆ, MASLE, PULITIKA/MEMORIJALNA ‘popular’ here) suicide spot. The fence, which guards pass-
KUĆA RONALD BROWN) ing pedestrians against unfortunate demise, is now popu-
This fine house next to the Rector’s Palace is home to a lated by a myriad array of padlocks, left there by couples to
gallery with some of the finest views in Europe – the win- commemorate their very-much-alive love for each other.
dows look out onto the Cathedral, rivalling the artworks The view from here, and from the nearby benches, is spec-
inside. The three painters that make up the gallery’s title tacular, and it is all too easy to while away an hour in the
are famous for painting local themes in eye-poppingly dying heat of the day. It is bit a ten minute brisk walk from
vivid style. Đuro Pulitika’s swirly, candy-coloured land- the Pile Gate of the Old City. It is at once both a place of
scapes are a particular joy, and it’s a wonder that this reflection and sombre beauty. It’s best appreciated either
little-frequented attraction doesn’t get a whole lot more at the height of the tourist influx (since they’re all in the
visitors. The building was repaired and renovated by the Old City), or during the evening sunset, as life winds down
US Government and serves as a memorial to Secretary along the coastline.
of Commerce Ronald Brown who in 1996 died in a plane
crash flying to Dubrovnik.QD‑3, Poljana Marina Držića DUBROVNIK AQUARIUM (AKVARIJ DU-
1, tel. (+385-20) 61 26 45, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. Open BROVNIK)
09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Unified ticket costing 120kn Located in St. John’s Fortress, this underwater world is a
for adults, 100kn for groups (10+ persons) and 25kn for delight to visit. Wander around this tranquil atmosphere,
students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, as you view a variety of Adriatic Sea flora and fauna. The
Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Rev‑ sea animals include eels, starfish, scorpion fish, seahorses
elin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin and many more.QE‑3, Kneza Damjana Jude 12, tel.
Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum (+385-20) 32 39 78, www.imp-du.com. Open 09.00 -
and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery. 21.00. Admission 60/20 kn.

50 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 51
Sightseeing Sightseeing
ORSULA PARK dating back to 1444 was destroyed and rebuilt in 1928. The
There is a gorgeous view overlooking the Old Town, all bell weighs two tonnes and was cast by a master crafts-
the way to Cavtat and the island of Lokrum, from this man famed far and wide for casting bells and cannons:
phenomenal location next to the remains of the 14th Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John the Baptist of Rab Island.
century St Orsula’s Church. There is an amphitheatre here The tower’s clock with its sunburst centerpoint is rather
that seats 350 and is set on a cliff, 200 metres above the lovely in its simplicity.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom.
sea. It is a 25 minute walk from the Old Town or a short
THE CITY HALL AND MARIN DRŽIĆ THEATRE
ride by the No.10 bus. After the Ambient Croatia Associa-
(VIJEĆNICA I KAZALIŠTE MARINA DRŽIĆA)
tion saved and renovated this location, Dubrovnik has also
South of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun
gained a new summer stage for concerts of various do-
begins a remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the old
mestic and international musical performers, who will play
Arsenal, with three (originally four) huge arches facing
here throughout the summer.QMagistralni put 2, www.
seawards. Here, galleons would be brought into dry dock
parkorsula.du-hr.net.
for repair. (Now, it’s a place to bring hungry stomachs for
THE CITY BELLTOWER (GRADSKI ZVONIK, LUŽA refilling, and for lubricating throats). The city coffee house
ZVONARA) is a grand café with seating overlooking St Blaise’s Church.
Look carefully at the bell in the tower that crowns the Next door are the chambers of the city council, followed
east end of Stradun, and you’ll notice the figures of two by the Marin Držić Theatre. The buildings are fronted by
men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn’t up steps and balustrades – it’s a fine sight to see the theatre-
to the task of making them out clearly, you can see their goers and orchestra’s musicians gathered there on a warm
two older brothers in the Sponza palace next door. Their evening.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 1. Open 9:00 - 12:00, 18:00
green colour is a result of their copper composition rather - 20:00.
than their roots on Mars. They are affectionately known as
THE CITY HARBOUR (GRADSKA LUKA)
zelenci – ‘the green ones’ – or, individually, Maro and Baro,
Dubrovnik owes its very existence to shipping. There is
the descendents of the two original wooden figures. The
evidence that the lands here were first colonised by Illyrian
bell is the only original part of the tower – an older one
tribes in the 4th century, probably attracted by the secu-
rity offered by the island which lay where the southern half
of the Old Town now stands, and by the natural lie of the
land with Mount Srđ standing guard. It lay at a natural rest-
ing point on the maritime trade routes that existed even
before the Roman Empire. After the Slavs settled here MUSEUMS flavour of the region where folk culture is still celebrated.
and began fortifying the city in the 13th century, owing DUBROVNIK NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM QB‑3, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, www.dumus.
to good diplomatic ties with powers such as Turkey and (PRIRODOSLOVNI MUZEJ DUBROVNIK) hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. Unified ticket cost‑
Venice, Dubrovnik began to establish a healthy shipping The collection dates back to 1872 when the Museo Patrio ing 120kn for adults, 100kn for groups (10+ persons)
trade. Two harbours were built in rocky, protected coves: (Native Musem) was founded with a donation from the and 25kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rec‑
a main one near the Ploče gates and a smaller one on the Chamber of Trade and Crafts and the private collection of tor’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum
Pile side. Through trade, Dubrovnik grew wealthy and rose pharmacist and ship-owner Antun Drobac. The collection Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of
to rival that other maritime city state, Venice. During the of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens may not appeal to Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Mu‑
city’s golden age in the 16th century, the merchant navy everyone, but kids will probably love it and learn a lot too, seum and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery.
numbered around 200 ships. Shipbuilding was a highly and the museum is not so big as to keep you on foot for
important industry, and the Dubrovnik Karaka, a beautiful hours. Other rooms are used for temporary exhibitions. MARITIME MUSEUM (POMORSKI MUZEJ)
galleon, was well known as being of exceptional quality QC‑4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88, www. Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to
as it was made of durable Lebanese Cedar. You can see a pmd.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Unified ticket the growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the
replica in Gruž harbour in the evenings. The sheltered har- costing 120kn for adults, 100kn for groups (10+ per‑ city’s most important museums. The display of models of
bour at Ploče has a wonderful atmosphere, and is now the sons) and 25kn for students and pupils includes entry the fine galleons that were once built here is the stuff of
spot for embarking on a boat tour, for buying local textiles to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic fairy tales – they, along with blueprints from the archives,
from the local ladies sewing in the shade, or for enjoying a Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, were used for building the replicas that you might glimpse
good meal.QD/E‑2/3. House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural in the Gruž harbour today. Along with the Aquarium, the
THE LAZARET (LAZARETI) History Museum and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery. Museum is housed in the massive St John’s fortress on the
Just past the Ploče gates is a row of adjoining stone build- old harbour.QE‑4, St. John’s fortress (Tvrđava sv. Ivana),
ings with gates guarding the courtyards. This was the Du- ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM RUPE (ETNOGRAF- tel. (+385-20) 32 39 04, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 -
brovnik lazaret - quarantine houses for travellers in times SKI MUZEJ RUPE) 22:00. Closed Mon. Unified ticket costing 120kn for
of plague. Since these buildings were usually destroyed “Rupe” is named after the pits which were hewn out of adults, 100kn for groups (10+ persons) and 25kn for
when the need for them passed, Dubrovnik’s lazaret is living rock in this granary, which was used for drying and students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace,
one of the last remaining in Europe. The rather impres- storing imported grain for the city’s people. Built in 1590, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Rev‑
sive stone buildings now house artists’ workshops and a this is a fascinating building in itself, and the exhibits show- elin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin
humanitarian organisation, and are the venue for concerts case the economic, cultural and spiritual development of Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum
Maritime Museum Archives and DJ parties.QL‑2, Frana Supila bb. Dubrovnik. The folk costumes and textiles give the best and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery.

52 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 53
Sightseeing Konavle
THE BIRTHPLACE OF MARIN DRŽIĆ (DOM MA-
RINA DRŽIĆA)
This picturesque gothic town house is the place where
Marin Držić was born. Držić only became accepted as one
of the greats of Croatian literature after his death, as he was
a bit too much of a wild card. His many exploits included
sending a series of letters to the Medici family in Florence,
seeking their help in overthrowing the Dubrovnik govern-
ment, convinced that it was run by elitist autocrats. He is
best loved for his satirical plays, and he is regarded as one
of the greats of European renaissance literature. His birth-
place has been transformed into an in situ exhibition of
the playwright, whose comedies are regularly performed
at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival.QB‑3, Široka 7, tel.
(+385-20) 32 32 42/(+385-20) 32 32 96, www.muzej-
marindrzic.eu. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Unified ticket cost‑
ing 120kn for adults, 100kn for groups (10+ persons)
and 25kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rec‑
tor’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum
Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of
Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Mu‑
seum and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery. J
Konavle Cavtat Tourist Board Archives
THE CROATIAN WAR OF INDEPENDENCE
MUSEUM Konavle occupies the extreme southern tip of Croatia, ly- which supplied the growing city with wheat and olive oil.
The Fort Imperial on Mount Srđ is the site of a permanent ing between Cavtat and the border with Montenegro at You can get a sense of the genteel days of the 19th and
exhibition dedicated toDubrovnik during the Homeland the Gulf of Kotor. Just 30 km from Dubrovnik, it’s a place 20th century when fine stone villas were built and culture
War 1991-1995. Displays include the fall of the Republic of the city’s residents love to head for days out in the open flourished in Cavtat, for example at the mausoleum of the
Dubrovnik, the Serbian aggression in 1991, the victory of air. Fringed by mountains and the shoreline, fertile fields lie Račić family designed by renowned sculptor Ivan Meštrović,
the Croatian forces in 1995 and the devastating toll it took in between speckled with delightful stone settlements. As or at the family home and gallery of artist Vlaho Bukovac.
on the local population and the city’s rich cultural heritage. well as great food, wine and wonderful natural surround-
QK‑2, Imperial Fort, Srđ Hill. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admis‑ ings, Konavle offers culture including art at the refined re- Cavtat, with its picturesque setting on a peninsula, is also
sion 30kn. sort of Cavtat, folk culture at Čilipi mixed in with a healthy a popular tourist resort in its own right, with excellent ho-
dose of ancient history. Konavle is particularly rich in folk- tels and pleasant beaches, galleries and lovely architecture.
THE SYNAGOGUE AND JEWISH MUSEUM (SINA- lore, with the folk dress you see in Dubrovnik often deriving Interestingly there are no other coastal settlements in the
GOGA I ŽIDOVSKI MUZEJ) from Konavle. Konavle region except for the fishing village of Molunat
The Synagogue (1352, the second oldest in Europe after right down in the south which is perfect for a tranquil stay
Prague) and Jewish museum are set in a building which The name Konavle derives from the word from the Latin away from the crowds.
could be reached from within the surrounding houses in “canale”, referring to the aqueduct you can still see which
what was once the Jewish ghetto. A permanent Jewish carried water from Vodovađe in the mountains to Cavtat, Today a happy circumstance is the growth of agricultural
community here was founded at the end of the 15th cen- known during Roman times as Epidaurum. The region was tourism in Konavle, meaning the region offers an alterna-
tury following the exodus from Portugal and Spain. The settled far before the Greeks and Romans arrived, and evi- tive to the busy coastal resorts where you can enjoy food
community flourished and included respected doctors, dence of the culture of the Celts and Illyrians who inhab- just as people have made at home for generations, plucked
merchants and state representatives. Jews in Dubrovnik ited the region before them is still visible. In the village of fresh from the kitchen garden that morning. And of course,
enjoyed relative freedom, but there were some restric- Mikulići you can see Illyrian cairns (burial mounds made of to accompany your meal there is no shortage of wines
tions on their activities at certain points in history. The stones), while at Močići there is an underground temple to including local varieties such as malvasija dubrovačka,
Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes the pagan god Mithras. plavac mali, kadarun and dalmatinka which are enjoying
and a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum something of a revival.
contains valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside In Konavle you can also see stećci, decorative mediaeval
information on the history of the Jewish community in tombstones unique to this part of southeast Europe, no- With such a diverse terrain there is no shortage of recrea-
Dubrovnik.QD‑2, Žudioska 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 04. tably at Brotnice and the Church of St Barbara in Dubravka. tional activities on offer, including walking and cycle routes,
Open 09:00 - 19:00. Admission 40kn. Also dating back to the Middle Ages is the imposing for- hiking to the highest peak Snježnica (1234 m) and horse
tress Sokol Grad, built on the foundations of Illyrian and riding. On the coast you can enjoy the beaches at Cavtat,
Roman fortifications. Molunat and Prevlaka or scramble to find a hidden piece of
your very own undisturbed paradise. There are organized
Get the In Your Pocket Moving forward in time, in Konavle you can also see the diving trips, and there are two adventure parks and off road
City Essentials app traces of the wealth of the days when Dubrovnik was a city buggy driving. Rather more gentle is a ride on the tourist
state. On the torrents of the River Ljuta you can see the mills train through the Konavle vineyards.

54 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 55
Konavle Dubrovnik Surroundings
At Čilipi, the village just by Dubrovnik airport, don’t miss BUKOVAC HOUSE (KUĆA BUKOVAC)
the Sunday folklore performances running from just before A highlight of a trip to Cavtat is the Bukovac house,
Easter til the end of October. Turn up at St Nicholas Church where one of the best-loved Croatian artists, Vlaho Bu-
just after mass (i.e. at 11:15) and you’ll be treated to a spec- kovac (1855-1922) grew up. As a child, he painted murals
tacle of song, dance and vibrant folk costume. Be sure also on the interior walls of the lovely old villa, bringing them
to call into the Ethnographic Museum at Čilipi where the alive with colourful paintings featuring semi-naive animal
ethnic heritage of Konavle is preserved and beautifully dis- themes. Although subsequent owners saw fit to paint over
played, and where you can buy an authentic souvenir. his works, they have been restored with some success, and
the delightful exhibition space upstairs features paintings
To sum up, Konavle offers it all. Dubrovnik is at your finger- and sketches surrounded by original furniture from Buko-
tips, but you have the great food, wine, relaxation and won- vac’s day. Bukovac’s portraits are especially personal and
derful villages of the Croatian countryside to enjoy, along full of emotion. An exhibition space on the ground floor is
with a super-sized portion of culture, all at a pebble’s throw given over to the work of young artists, and the shows fea-
from the shoreline. ture contemporary works, a refreshing contrast with the
antique mood of the rest of the house. There’s an idyllic
garden at the back, and the whole experience is a rather
uplifting one.QBukovčeva 5, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47
86 46, www.kuca-bukovac.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sun
09:00 - 14:00. Admission 30kn.
SOKOL TOWER (SOKOL GRAD)
Kids these days will say ‘hey, this reminds me of a fortress
in World of Warcraft’, and they are not far off. Enter an an-
cient fort located in Konavle and up on a 25 meter high Hotel Odisej Mljet, ALH Archives
cliff, it dates back to 1420 and was most likely used for
military purposes. After long renovations, it’s open to the
public and also maintains some archaeological items in-
cluding Bronze Age weapons for the feisty!QDunave, Ko‑
Islands tectural elegance of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as the city’s
shipowners built their summer residences here. Thus you
navle, www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00. The Elaphite archipelago consists of 13 islands and islets, have fine stone villas, some of which are now super family-
Tickets 50/35 kn. of which only three are inhabited. Robinson Crusoe will get run hotels. Lopud is perhaps the prettiest of the Elafiti is-
a run for his money here as the nature and culture on the lands, and during the golden age of Dubrovnik there were
THE RAČIĆ MAUSOLEUM (MAUZOLEJ OBITELJI islands are next to perfection; the peace and tranquillity, thirty churches on less than 5km2 of island. (Many church-
RAČIĆ) invaluable. The island sitting high north of the Dubrovnik/ es and palaces on all the islands now lie in ruins, but they’re
The Račić family mausoleum was built by Ivan Mestrović, Neretva County is Korčula which is filled with its rich cul- still interesting to chance across on your wanders). Lopud
a friend of the family, in the early 20th Century, in order ture, historical remains and natural surroundings. The town village has a well-planted old park with stone balustrades
to house their remains. Located in the middle of the cem- of Korčula is also known as ‘Little Dubrovnik’ because of the and statuary framing the sea. Lopud and Koločep have true
etery, on top of the hill overlooking Cavtat, from the mau- walls that surround it. The island of Lastovo is the second sandy beaches, very shallow ones, perfect for children and
soleum you can look out at the magnificent Adriatic Sea. It most forested island in the Adriatic earning it the title of a the popular local ball game picigin. Most of Lopud’s Šunj
took Meštrović two years to complete the mausoleum and Nature Park. With a National Park on the western front to a beach is given up to sun loungers for hire, but there is a na-
he finished his work in 1922. It’s dedicated to Our Lady of reserve of natural assets on the eastern front, the island of turist section to one side, and, according to a local legend,if
the Angels.QCavtat. 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admis‑ Mljet is full of flora and fauna, fascinating history and wild you bathe with your loved one from Šunj, you’ll never part.
sion 20kn. adventure offers. The islands in general have a completely
Photo by Andrija Carli different atmosphere from mainland towns making their Šipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands with two little
THE SIVI SOKO VIEWPOINT way of life all the more special. ports, Suđurađ (“soojooraj”) and Šipanska luka, plus a few
Return home by bragging to friends some of the best pho- tiny hamlets in the interior. A bus connects the ports, tak-
tos you had taken around Dubrovnik. Pick up your cam- ing a trip through a fertile depression where the islanders
era and GO GO GO! Jump onto the old road, the so called
‘Jadranska magistrala’ towards the Čilipi Airport and exit at
THE ELAFITI ISLANDS - successfully grow a variety of produce including grapes,
olives, figs and carob. Both settlements boast fascinating
the town called Zvekovica, turning left onto a local road. KOLOČEP, LOPUD AND ŠIPAN old palaces and the ruins in the interior include the former
After 1km, turn left and head up the Snježnica Hill until These tiny islands - the first two car-free - are fantastic palace of the Dubrovnik bishops. Suđurađ faces Lopud, and
you see the sign for Velji Do to the left. This is your last turn places to stay: you have all the sights of Dubrovnik on your this is a place for a swim and a coffee; while Šipanska luka
before the main post. A narrow path will then take you to doorstep but get to enjoy the peace and cleanliness of is- has a couple of excellent restaurants.
the ‘lookout’ itself from which you will have breathtaking land life, and accommodation is inexpensive. The journey
views of Dubrovnik, Konavle, Cavtat and the neighboring by boat costs just a couple of Euro so you can travel every Despite their tiny scale and the fact that you can still find
islands. From here it is all yours; capture the photo and day and explore if you want, just like on a bus, but a million your own little Robinson Crusoe beach, these three islands
those special moments! times more refreshing! aren’t really off the beaten track - there are several hotels
used by tour operators and you’ll find a healthy number of
TOURIST BOARD OF KONAVLE Koločep and Lopud are tiny - you can walk all around tourists, particularly on Lopud. These islands are great if you
QZidine 6, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 90 25, www.visit. them quite comfortably. Their settlements (Koločep has need a relaxing break away from it all, and don’t expect wild
Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives cavtat-konavle.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. two, Lopud just one) show in miniaturised form the archi- nightlife or a heap of facilities laid on.

56 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 57
Dubrovnik Surroundings Dubrovnik Surroundings
panoramic views of the island. There is also a Marco Polo to do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has been able to explore, and happy to adapt to the treacle-slow pas-
Museum which reflects on his life through seven vast and left pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it’s an un- sage of time here, this could well be the start of an endur-
deep scenes which bring to life his amazing adventures. touched ecological paradise. ing love affair.
The Abbey Treasury of St. Mark is in the heart of the main-
Many people sense in Lastovo a spirit unlike anything else, LASTOVO TOURIST BOARD
square and features reliquaries, artworks, liturgical vest-
a sense of the breath of ages. Lastovo town sits uphill in QPjevor 7, tel. (+385-20) 80 10 18, www.tz-lastovo.hr.
ments and manuscripts with some dating as far back as the
a basin facing away from the sea to escape the attentions Open 08:00 -14:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. July,
12th century. The Icon Gallery features artworks of Byzan-
of pirates. The mellow stone of the houses basking in the August 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00.
tine paintings on wood and most of which were brought
warm sunlight is captivating. Walking in the town’s streets,
across by island sailors from the 13th to 17th century. Ahoy
those with a sense for the antique and the eccentric will
to the naval ancestors! The Revelin Tower with its descend-
wonder at a culture so very detached from modern urban MLJET
ing steps is a majestic site in itself whilst the Maximilian
life. Mljet gets a growing share of tourists, but as one of the
Vanka Gallery hosts his astute paintings and portraits for
more remote and less developed islands, with a limited fer-
which he is most known for. And that’s just a snapshot of Lastovo is a town of chimneys. In times past, a sign of the ry service, it lacks the kind of mass tourism of much of the
Korčula with more to do and see. All in all, it’s well worth a wealth of a household was the size and ornateness of one’s Dalmatian coast and some other more accessible islands.
few days’ stay and is a perfect place to recharge your batter- chimney, and many unusual examples still stand. Another This isn’t the place to come for late night bars, concerts or
ies. One of the other most prominent features of the island vital aspect of Lastovo’s heritage is the “Poklad” - the tradi- discos. One might hope it never will be.
is its folk tradition which includes the Moreška, a dance tional pre-Lent carnival celebrating the island’s deliverance
with swords, which you can witness during the summer from Catalan pirates. An effigy of the Catalan messenger Be prepared to fall in love with nature all over again, for this
months (Mondays and Thursdays in July and August, Thurs- takes centre stage, spectacularly released from a hilltop to island has a stunning quality waiting for you to discover.
days in June and September, starting at 21:00), heralded slide on a rope to the town centre with firecrackers explod- Croatia’s 8th largest island is approximately 3km wide
by drumbeats as a parade of citizens in historical costume ing at its feet. Humiliating indeed. At this time, as well as and 37km long making attractive to explore for a short or
passes through prior to the performance. during summertime festivals, you can see the island’s folk lengthier stop. It has an area of roughly 100 square km with
With such material, Korčula has a long tradition of tour- costume, where the men wear scarlet and black with em- 131km of coastline and many little niches and coves to
ism and is one of the more commercialised of Croatia’s broidered braces and hats decked with colourful flowers. discover, so you’d be forgiven for wanting to stay. With five
Adriatic towns, so the town itself gets pretty busy during distinct forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush veg-
With so little (except carnivals) to disturb them, fish adore
high season. But this is a relatively large island, there are etation, it’s easy to see why Mljet is called the “Green Island.”
Lastovo, and you can be sure of an excellent meal here.
plenty of other places to explore and get away from it all. Mljet offers a panorama of coastline, cliffs, reefs and numer-
As with any island, the perfect way to explore is to rent a Lastovo has poor transport connections, few shops, and ous islets as well as the rich topography of the hills that rise
scooter or bicycle from any of the tourist agencies in town. there is little accommodation apart from one hotel and a steeply above the sea and plummet back into deep valleys
Korčula Tourist Board Archives Head towards the village of Lumbarda where you’ll find few families offering private rooms. But if you’re ready and sheltering ancient stone villages. The submarine world in-
picturesque vineyards. You must try the Grk wine, only
KORČULA produced in the surrounding area, and said to have been
K​ orčula, birthplace of the renowned traveller, Marco Polo, brought from ancient Greece after the fall of Troy. Wander
is a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by the stone streets of the old village and feel miles and centu-
the clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel. ries away from everything else. Other destinations for wine
connoisseurs are the villages of Čara and Smokvica, these
Korčula town, alongside Dubrovnik, is one of the Adriatic two island gems also add to the agricultural pallet as they
towns which hits the news from time to time with reports are known for the top quality white wine known as Pošip,
of rich, famous and notable types who buy up old town considered to be one of the most prestigious wines of the
properties for heart-stopping sums. There is good reason Croatian south.
for this – the tiny, almost circular old town occupying a
rocky promontory is one of the most perfectly preserved KORČULA CITY MUSEUM
and most romantic historic towns you’ll ever see with many QTrg Sv. Marka, tel. (+385-20) 71 14 20, www.gm-
opportunities for shutterbugs. It doesn’t take long to wan- korcula.com. Open 10:00 - 14:00, Sun by prior arrange‑
der through the atmospheric streets, where you’ll come ment. Admission 20/8kn per person.
across gothic details and balconies that make you feel like KORČULA TOURIST BOARD
you’ve entered a Slavic version of Romeo and Juliet. Pay at- QObala dr. F.Tuđmana 4, tel. (+385-20) 71 57 01, www.
tention to the hidden architectural delights, such as relief visitkorcula.eu. Open 08:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sun
figures on the Cathedral of St. Mark and, as rumor has it, 08:00 - 12:00. From July Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00
the interestingly sculpted menu of an old brothel near the - 13:00; 16:00 - 20:00.
main entrance. Visit the town museum and the local galler-
ies within a casual morning stroll.
Many of the historical sights and landmarks are just a stone
LASTOVO
throw from the main square and you’ll be bedazzled by the Lastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes
amount of history and culture that surrounds you. Take for to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours.
instance the Tower of Marco Polo, believed to be the house Maybe that’s why the island culture is so different and well
in which the great world traveller and writer was born, preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989,
whilst there head up to the tower for some breathtaking so access to the island was restricted. With not a great deal Photo by Andrija Carli

58 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 59
Dubrovnik Surroundings Dubrovnik Surroundings
Polače The village is named for the ruin of a significant
Roman palace and fortifications - one tower is 20m high
- built between the 2nd and the 5th century. Second in
size to the Palace of Diocletian in Split, you can’t miss it: The
road to Pomena slips right between its high walls.
Pomena Located on the western coast of Mljet in the
National Park, about 200 m from Malo Jezero. This village,
built after World War II, has only about 50 inhabitants living
among charming thick forests and working in agriculture,
fishing and tourism. The bay of Pomena is perfect for small
yachts, which can pull up to the pier while you enjoy the
hotel’s amenities.
Goveđari Settlement began here in the late 18th Century
when two families of land workers and fishermen from
Babino Polje were given permission to settle by the Ben-
edictines to work as cattle-breeders (goveda means cattle
in Croatian). Located in the national park, 5km inland, this
ethnologically interesting site is a great place to be sur-
rounded by peace, serenity and lush vegetation.

Photo by Andrija Carli Babine Kuće This picturesque little fishing village is locat-
ed on the shores of the Veliko jezero just beneath Goveđari.
cludes quite an array of fish and several types of corals. With It offers a splendid view of the islet of St Mary. There are a
fantastic weather, sailing, recreational sports, swimming, number of private rentals here, too.
scuba diving, hiking and bicycle paths are only a fraction
of the pleasures that you can enjoy here. The western end Babino Polje The central and largest inhabited area with
of Mljet has been protected as a National Park since 1960. around 350 people, Babino Polje is the administrative
centre of the island. Stretched along a ridge above a by-
Getting there and around pass road and a field (the name means “Grandma’s Field”),
Two ferry types are available to/from Dubrovnik, a car Babino Polje is surrounded with pine woods, groves of old,
twisted olive trees and vineyards, and 514m Veliki Grad, the
a picturesque belfry “na preslicu” (“on a distaff,” that is, the NERETVA
ferry and a catamaran mostly provided by Jadrolinija fer- belfry has a split where the bell hangs, the way a distaff’s If you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised
ries. Mljet is only 8km away from the peninsula of Pelješac, highest hill on the island. end is cleft to hold wool). Some of the manor houses have to see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you
18km from Korčula and 30km from Dubrovnik. There are Odysseus’s Cave (Odisejeva Špilja) Technically that Renaissance-Baroque elements. The town has its own 17th walk. Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often
a number of harbour ports in Mljet. Polače is its largest would be Calypso’s cave; Odysseus, shipwrecked on his Century defence tower with loopholes for firing. Korita is ignored, inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have
and main port of call in the north, however, you can also way home from the Trojan War, only stayed with the nymph named for the stone troughs, common on the island, that to part with good money for them back home. Obviously,
access the island from Sobra which is best used to reach seven years, and most of the time he was pining for his wife are used to capture rainwater. the warm climate gives the people of the Dubrovnik region
Maranovići and Babino Polje. Other harbours include Pom- and his home. After walking along a path lined with rock these southern fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the
ena which has daily connections to Dubrovnik (watch out MLJET TOURIST BOARD
walls and wildflowers, which takes you out above a deep Around the side of the cafe at the ferry pier.QSobra bb, River Neretva.
for reefs and shallow water), and Lokve or Gonoturska port grotto and the crashing waves, you may wonder why he
where you can throw anchor just before the entry canal Sobra, tel. (+385-20) 74 60 25, www.mljet.hr. Open It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rushing green and
was in such a hurry to leave. You can pick your way down 08:00 - 19:00.
toward the Big Lake. into the cave; come back another day by boat to squeeze impetuous under the famous stone bridge at Mostar, up-
into it through a 30m tunnel. Local fishermen use the grot- river in Herzegovina. In Croatia, it spreads out open arms
What to See to as a harbour. North of Dubrovnik to meet the sea, creating a swampy region. Generations of
backbreaking work mean that this area today is a fertile re-
Mljet National Park (Nacionalni Park Mljet) Pristanište Prožura This medieval village was used by Ragusan nobles
2, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 40 41, np-mljet@np- who - a bit like yourself - were looking for relaxing geta- The Dubrovnik/Neretva County consists of both continen- gion sometimes called Croatia’s California.
mljet.hr, www.np-mljet.hr. Established in 1960, the park way. Perched on a hill over a Blato (an intermittent lake) tal areas and islands. North of Dubrovnik, you can enjoy the As you drive north to Metković, you can stop at roadside
is Mljet’s top attraction. The park, encompasses 54 square and the sea, Prožura has a 17th Century watch tower and natural beauty and peace of ‘Trsteno’ which is home to the stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins, local honey and spir-
kilometres at the western end of the island, with an aston- three beautiful churches: the Church of the Holy Trinity, the oldest arboretum in the world, dating back to 1498. The its. It is also sometimes called Croatia’s Venice, as the life
ishing interior and coastline beauty. Veliko Jezero and Malo Church of St Martin and the Church of St Rocco. Pelješac peninsula, the second largest peninsula in Croatia, of the people is closely tied up with boats, used for trans-
Jezero (Big Lake and Small Lake), and the villages of Soline, is famous for many reasons especially for those associ- porting pretty much everything around here. The region
Babine Kuće, Pomena, Polače and Goveđari all lie within the Maranovići The 18th Century Baroque house of the Peš ated with the sense of taste and smell. Therefore, when in
family is in the middle of the town. The 19th Century par- has its own types of wooden boat; a smaller kind called a
park boundaries. Of interest, this park represents the first the area, make sure you don’t miss out on the infamous trupa, and a larger one called a lađa. Although these tra-
institutionalised attempt to protect the native eco-system ish church of St Anton rests on the foundations of an older Pelješac oysters and wines amidst the intense beauty of the
church and features Gothic architectural elements. In near- ditional boats largely died out, in recent years an annual
in the Adriatic. peninsula. race (Maraton lađa, August 13 ) which attracts compet-
by Korita, the ruined 14th Century Church of St Mary of
the Hill mixes Gothic and Renaissance elements, and dem- ing teams from around the world looks set to revive the
Benedictine Monastery on the islet of St Mary (Samo- picturesque tradition - the boats have a curiously flattish
onstrates features typical of the island’s churches. A roughly
stan Sv Marija) This tiny island, in a lake on the island of
square plan with a deep porch extending to the front, and pinterest.com/inyourpocket construction which is very attractive but definitely renders
Mljet, is at the island’s cultural and spiritual heart. their navigation a challenge!

60 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 61
Dubrovnik Surroundings Dubrovnik Surroundings
More curious still is the water life of the valley. The tradi- Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled by 14th century stone
tional dishes of the area are often centered around two walls, 5.5km long and once including forty towers, which
aquatic inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made with the backdrop of the mountainous countryside look
into a tomato casserole called brudet - you can try it in the scarily like the Great Wall of China. These walls were built
popular restaurant Villa Neretva at the town of Metković, by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable salt pans
where accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris and the town’s strategic position, and Ston is often called
are also offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly “little Dubrovnik” as the streets have the same layout and
storks and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game. the same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt for
industrial purposes. If you’d like to have an active holiday
Near the town of Ploče you can see the Baćina lakes from with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and
the main road - a spectacular chain of seven interconnect- victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr.
ing freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beau-
tifully clean and have beaches suitable for swimming. It is The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacu-
hoped that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in lar conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac
the near future. Mali grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the vil-
lage of Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality.
METKOVIĆ TOURIST BOARD Dingač is an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong,
QAnte Starčevića 3, Metković, tel. (+385-20) 68 18 99, and was the first Croatian wine to gain protected geo-
www.tzmetkovic.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, graphic origin (1961). It’ll cost you about €10 a bottle, but
Sun. to enjoy the Pelješac experience to the full, we recommend
you try it. Postup is another Pelješac wine often called
“Dingač’s baby brother”, while Plavac is softer, more afford-
able and very quaffable. On Pelješac you can find wonder-
ful stone villages, untouched by modern times. Coastal
hamlets are backed by steep slopes, their shores fringed by
pine. Pelješac is famous for pristine shingle beaches, and on
the southern side a bracing wind makes this a favorite spot
for windsurfers, especially at Viganj. Orebić is the largest
resort, its architecture reflecting its links with the Republic
of Dubrovnik, and has fantastic stretches of shingle to the
east of town. A ferry connects Orebić with Korčula town,
and Trstenik to Polače on Mljet - ideal for island hopping. The Dubrovnik Republic annexed Slano in the 14th century rinov Gučetić in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth into
and shortly thereafter it became the seat of the Republic’s a sprawling and luxurious home, he built a more modest
The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take Rector and a summer retreat for the wealthy and influential abode and surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit
time to slowly discover and drink in its delights - a week will citizens of the powerful city-state. The Franciscan church of could soar. More than one hundred years later, his descend-
hardly be long enough. St. Jerome, overlooking the bay, is one of the finest exam- ant Nikola Vitov Gučetić composed humanist philosophical
ples of 15th century ecclesiastical architecture in Dalmatia. texts here.
Narona Archaeological Museum Archives
OREBIĆ TOURIST BOARD If we take our cues from the great civilizations which have
QZrinsko Frankopanska 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71 37 called the bay home since ancient times, Slano enjoys not Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided
NARONA ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM 18, www.visitorebic-croatia.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. only some of the most breathtaking sites in Dalmatia, but is by local sea captains who came home from their travels
(ARHEOLOŠKI MUZEJ NARONA) From July 08:00 - 22:00. also a perfect place for a sightseeing getaway. Along with bearing gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries, many
This archaeological museum is located at the former site of its unmistakable charms and proximity to Dubrovnik, the people have invested their energy and soul into these gar-
Narona, an ancient Roman City in the present day Neretva STON TOURIST BOARD vineyards and seafood of Pelješac, and the Elaphiti Islands, dens. A sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates
Valley. Open to visitors since May 18, 2007, the Roman QPelješki put bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 52, www. Slano is a must-see. - don’t miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone
Temple Augusteum forms the base of the museum exhibi- ston.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00. aqueduct. East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once
tion. The museum’s permanent collection features statues, SLANO TOURIST BOARD shared by the local community. A little path leads from the
pottery, jewelry, glass and money, which date as far back QTrg Ruđera Boškovića 1, Slano, tel. (+385-20) 87 12 36, villa to the sea where a pavilion overlooking the water of-
as the 3rd Century BC.QNaronski trg 6, Vid, tel. (+385- SLANO www.visit-slano.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - fers a view encapsulating the true meaning of this place
20) 68 71 49, www.a-m-narona.hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Slano, a small town located between Trsteno and the 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00. - botanical splendour on the lush, island-strewn Adriatic.
Closed Mon. Admisson 40/20kn. Pelješac peninsula, is among the most beautiful jewels in In this part of the garden, you can also see the oldest tree
the crown of the Dubrovnik Riviera. Set back 2 kilometres in the arboretum - a palm almost 500 years old looking
from the open blue waters of the Adriatic in a bay of the TRSTENO
PELJEŠAC PENINSULA same name, Slano offers protection from the elements for If you’re on the edge of your nerves and even a stay in Du-
remarkably healthy. The arboretum includes the original
15th century garden laid out in renaissance style, with a
The Pelješac peninsula is so tenuously connected with the wayward sailors, while the numerous tree-lined pristine brovnik brings no respite to your soul, it’s time to go green, geometric pattern of paths, a chapel, the fountain and aq-
mainland that it has the unique character of an island. The beaches are ideal for landlubbers. The strategic impor- get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree hugging ueduct. There is also a newer garden (early 20th century)
first delight that awaits you is the gastronomic haven of tance of Slano is firmly entrenched in history, as the site at Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally overworked who will featuring formal and modern sections, with features typi-
Mali Ston. The narrow lagoon dividing Pelješac from the has been continuously inhabited since prehistoric times. be delighted by this historic arboretum - of course, for gar- cal of the southern Adriatic, plus a historic olive grove and
mainland is rich in premium quality oysters, and the village Ancient Greek and Roman ruins dot the heavily forested deners and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The centerpiece is natural woodland. Trsteno suffered quite badly both from
restaurants offer some of the best cuisine in the country. hills and centuries-old olive groves of the picturesque bay. a summer villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Ma- shelling and from a forest fire which broke out in 2000, but

62 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 63
Dubrovnik Surroundings Leisure
tainside and emerge right on the beach, bringing the sea Dubrovnik is far from being just a walk-round museum of
to a temperature that could be named “refreshing” or “freez- cultural treasures and churches. It also stands in the middle
ing” depending on the hardiness of the swimmer in ques- of a spectacularly unspoiled natural landscape, and is ide-
tion. These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons ally suited to an active holiday of paddling, peddling and
being that this part of the coast was occupied by the Yugo- generally pottering around.
slav army during the early 90s. The easiest way to stretch your legs is to embark on a mis-
sion to conquer Mount Srđ, the stark 412m-high summit
The village of Kupari is all but devastated, as it was a mili- that watches over Dubrovnik to the north. Otherwise catch
tary base. Clearly a dismal situation for the local people, a ferry to an offshore island such as Lopud, Šipan or Mljet,
with a once thriving industry lying dormant and some fine where numerous walking trails forge through untouched
old buildings on the waterfront empty and pockmarked Mediterranean landscapes.
by bullets, but renovation is presently going on and things Most popular of the organized activities in the Dubrovnik
will get better. We highly recommend these resorts for the region is sea kayaking, with several local agencies offering
following reasons. The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, half- or full-day paddles focusing on the nearby islands of
mmm!) There is plenty of excellent accommodation in pri- Lokrum, Koločep and Lopud.
vate apartments, and prices are more than reasonable. With Cycling is beginning to take off in the Konavle, the beauti-
Dubrovnik just 20 minutes away by bus, this is a great place fully rustic coastal strip that runs southeast from Dubrovnik
to stay if you’re on a budget and appreciate a quieter envi- to the Montenegrin border. The Cavtat tourist office pub-
ronment and clean beaches. lishes a series of free mountain biking maps to the region,
Hotel Odisej Mljet, ALH Archives Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you’ll and guided bike tours can be booked at travel agents in
find necessities such as the tourist information centre, both Dubrovnik and Cavtat.
Mother Nature has taken over and it’s clearly business as banks, the post office and a large supermarket. Mlini’s wa- With the chance to go scuba diving or sailing in coastal
usual. A walk amid the beautiful, tall trees offers welcome terfront is possibly the most unusual we’ve ever seen: a pic- waters near Dubrovnik or Mljet, or try out free climbing or
dappled shade and the chance to enjoy the harmony of turesque village aspect is created by a stream, a watermill horse riding in the Konavle, there’s no shortage of variety.
man and nature. and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752 right on the
beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel complex with little
The village of Trsteno is a modest little settlement with a villas nestled in leafy shade.
ADRENALINE
fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 year old Asiatic Packages which offer activities for adults (18+) with an ele-
plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a ŽUPA DUBROVAČKA TOURIST BOARD ment of thrill and danger.
remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a QŠetalište Dr. F. Tuđmana 7, Srebreno, Mlini, tel. (+385-
stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical. 20) 48 62 54, www.dubrovnik-riviera.hr. Open 7:00 - ABYSS - DIVING & WATER-SPORT CENTRE
20:00, Sat and Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Diving center, diving school, water sports (jet ski, water-
South of Dubrovnik ski, wakeboard, stand up paddle, snorkeling, parasailing).
QG‑2, Ive Dulčića 142 (Hotel Dubrovnik President
South of Dubrovnik and following the coastal road you will AGRITOURISM beach), tel. (+385-) 099 256 12 56/(+385-) 099 445 56
find yourself in Župa Dubrovačka, where there are a hand- AGROTURIZAM LAPTALO 95, www.dubrovnikdiving.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00
ful of bays that have a promenade which passes through Not far from Dubrovnik in a village named Gromača and by prior arrangement. A
small romantic places such as Srebreno and Mlini. If you you’ll find this family smallholding. Throughout the
continue further south, you will find yourself in a vortex of year, if you call ahead, you can visit and enjoy home- ADVENTURE DALMATIA
history. The small town of Cavtat will enchant you with its made dishes cooked in the traditional way, and sample Sea kayaking around Dubrovnik, free climbing in the Ko-
architecture, nature and charm. Historically known as Epi- the family’s liqueurs, wines and olive oil. Try the local navle. More information on contacts below.QPile bay,
daurum, it used to be a key part of Dubrovnik’s history and sweet specialities arancine (orange), kontonjata tel. (+385-) 091 566 59 42/(+385-) 091 182 89 95, www.
development of the city, which the citizens of Cavtat built (quince) and mantala (grape, orange, nuts and spic- adventuredalmatia.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00.
respectively. From Cavtat to the border with Montenegro es).QGromača 56, Zaton, tel. (+385-20) 88 11 86/
stretches the Konavle municipality which was named af- (+385-) 099 218 36 12, 098 72 51 02, www. BLUE PLANET
ter the Latin word ‘canalis’, referring to water channels that laptalo-agro.hr. Open by prior arrangement. Different levels for scuba diving courses, daily trips and
used to bring water from water-wells across Konavle Fields P­ILNK­W diving adventures.QF‑3, Masarykov put 20 (Hotel
to the ancient city of Epidaurum (present-day Cavtat). Dubrovnik Palace), tel. (+385-) 091 899 09 73, www.
KONOBA VINICA - MONKOVIĆ FAMILY blueplanet-diving.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00 and by
Excellent option in the Konavle region south of Cavtat. prior arrangement.
ŽUPA DUBROVAČKA If you ask nicely, the Monković family who run the
The road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a broad place may show you their collection of folk costumes BUNGEE JUMPING
bay dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to be found as you digest your home made prosciutto, cheese, Heart pumping, thrill seeking jumps that make for life-
on the Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are probably the roast meat, trout and garden salad. A drop of home long memories. The lads on 53m high Franjo Tuđman
reason why the village of Srebreno was given its name, made rakija would go down a treat too…QPridvorje, Bridge are waiting for you; it’s like Point Break on altitude.
which means “Silver”. The water here is that perfect aqua- Ljuta, tel. (+385-20) 79 12 44/(+385-) 099 215 24 QG‑1, Franjo Tuđman Bridge, tel. +385 91 111 55 44,
marine colour so beloved of the holiday brochures. The 59, www.konobavinica.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. www.bungee-jumping-dubrovnik.com/. Open 11:00 -
town of Mlini is named after the water mills that you can P­A­6­L­B­W 20:00. 600kn.
still see here, driven by streams that race down the moun-

64 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 65
Leisure Shopping
EXCURSIONS
Agencies which offer one-day trips and longer trips that
suit your needs.

DUBROVNIK ADVENTURES
A top tour operator company offering an assortment of
great escapes from one day and on as they promote ac-
tive, eco and adventure tourism. Choose from country
wine tours, cycling tours, island hopping on a bike, ex-
cursions, hiking and multi-sport tours just to name a few.
Top notch tour guides combine history and humour fused
with food and beverages in ready-made packages that
will leave you with lasting memories of Dubrovnik and its
natural surroundings.Qtel. (+385-) 099 667 77 00, www. ACCESSORIES Konavle embroidery.QC‑2, Mrtvo zvono 8, Bastion
dubrovnikadventures.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00. A ART GO’DEN sv.Petra, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 94/(+385) 091 201 19 99,
Buggy Safari Dubrovnik Archives A classy and sophisticated Croatian accessories brand. www.antoniaruskovic.com. Open 07:00 - 18:30. A
DUBROVNIK BOAT EXCURSIONS Your chance to take back home exquisite silk ties and ARTUR
Visiting 3 islands is the ideal way to escape the hustle and scarves designed with Dubrovnik historical or marine A fantastic selection of high quality local and Croatian art.
bustle of Dubrovnik and in getting to know the charm of motifs or even the same leather bag that we heard Roger They also have art workshops during whole year so if you
the Elaphite islands all in one day. The tour is ideal for fami- Moore bought for his wife during the Dubrovnik Sum- are interested you know what to do...QB‑3, Od Domina
lies, larger groups, and for individuals who are happy to mer Festival! Also at Radisson Blue Resort&Spa, Valamar 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 73/(+385-) 098 28 53 98, www.
meet new people and customs. The fleet consists of 4 old Lacroma Resort, Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik Hotel, Valamar arturgallery.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A
timer boats that are fully equipped (umbrellas, chairs, mu- Dubrovnik President, Kompas and Sheraton.QK‑3, Mari‑
sic, toilets and more), and very friendly and attentive staff jana Blažića 2 (Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik), tel. (+385-) HERITAGE GALLERY
who will ensure that your day passes in the best possible 098 42 75 96, www.artgoden.com. Open 09:00 - 12:00, A small store exquisitely decorated in the spirit of the old
fashion. The price of 250kuna per person includes trans- 18:00 - 21:00. A Dubrovnik salon and inspired by rich local and Croatian
portation from your hotel or place of stay to the ship dock- culture. It has different goods to offer and you can choose
ing area and back.QVrh sela 9, Veliki Zaton, tel. (+385-) BORZA GRUPA from the wide range of art objects, antiquities and useful
098 178 71 77, www.dubrovnikboatexcursions.com. The Dubrovnik established Borza Grupa Ltd. offers a wide items dedicated to Croatian history, the ancient times right
Open by prior arrangement. range of designer bags, shoes, watches, sunglasses and through to the present.For lovers of antiques and vintage
other accessories by top designers, such as Braccialini, items, there is a collection of antique oil lamps and small
DUBROVNIK BOATS M Missoni, Armani and many more.QD‑3, Pred dvorom household items.QL‑2, Petra Krešimira IV 7, tel. (+385-)
Seeking a trip or tour, but do not wish to be held up by 2, tel. (+385-20) 35 89 84, www.borzagrupa.hr. Open 098 20 91 50, www.heritagegallery.eu. Open 10:00 -
Viganj Slalom Open, Orebić Tourist Board Archives
other tourists or deadlines. Would you like to go on a trip 09:00 - 24:00. A 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. A
DIVING CLUB DUBROVNIK tailored to your needs and wishes? Look no further, for pri- CROATA HOMA GALLERY
Scuba diving, start on Babin Kuk facing the Gruž harbour. vate or specifically prepared adventures or trips that meet Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a A colorful richness of works made by Dubrovnik painter
QG/H‑1, Solitudo Bay, tel. (+385-20) 43 57 37/(+385-) your every standard and expectation, with choice of full- store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and Jadranka Mihajlović Munitić just may impress and caress
098 42 79 63, www.du-diver.hr. Open by prior arrange‑ featured transport (boat, sailing boat, catamaran, speed more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts sev- your artistic taste buds. The main motif of her paintings
ment. boat or yacht), simply contact Nikša and his team. They eral entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that is the city of Dubrovnik as its beauty is her endless inspi-
organise transport, crew, offer personal recommendations much more special. Croata’s shops in Dubrovnik and Split ration.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 099 834 05 73.
KOJAN KORAL on what to visit, where to eat, relax and most importantly also contain a Shop Museum, a display intended to show- Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. N
Two hours of horse riding in the Konvale countryside, how better to experience and learn about Dubrovnik and case local heritage.QD‑3, Pred dvorom 2, tel. (+385-20)
which even a total beginner can enjoy: helmets, insurance, its surroundings. Your entire experience is professionally 64 10 66, www.croata.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A
and instructions are provided. They also offer ATV Quad looked after by the staff at Dubrovnik Boats’, all you need
Safaris across four different off-road terrains of the Konavle
mainland. Price 600-700kn for ATV-quad safari and 650kn
is to book, sit back and enjoy.QBartola Kašića 13, tel.
(+385-) 098 75 78 90, www.dubrovnikboats.com. Open
ANTIQUES
horseback riding (including the transport from/to Kojan by prior arrangement. ANTIQUES TEZORO
Koral).QPopovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. (+385-) 099 300 Take home a little reminder of renaissance Dubrovnik -
50 01, www.kojankoral.com. Open 08:00 - 12:00 and by DUBROVNIK SAILING jewellery, paintings, artworks, silverware...QC‑2, Između
prior arrangement. Make the most of your stay by going sailing from leisure Polača 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 23, www.moje-tezoro.
to recreational all down to professional sports sailing. hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. A
TENNIS Choose between half and full day sailing, sunset sailing or
week sailing. Stop off at amazing islands, sandy beaches,
DUBROVNIK TENNIS CLUB caves, historical monuments, gardens. Your camera will be ART GALLERIES
QH‑2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 7, tel. (+385-20) 43 working overtime and all you need to do is let the skip- AR BASTION
73 55. Open 07:00 - 22:00. 80kn/h during the day, per know. Ahoy matey!Qtel. (+385-) 098 42 84 52, www. A rich offer of unique and authentic souvenirs such as
after the lights are on you’ll pay 100kn/h. dubrovnik-sailing.com. items made of silk and ceramics, as well as objects with

66 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 67
Shopping Shopping
a beautiful gift. The tastefully decorated shop has tons of
bouquets and holiday decorations to choose from that will
suit any taste.QG‑2, Miljenka Bratoša 19, tel. (+385-20)
31 10 32, www.cvijetbykike.com. Open 08:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. A
LIFE ACCORDING TO KAWA
‘Life According to Kawa’ is a concept unlike any other in
Dubrovnik. Set in a renovated garage, the layout is more
like a cutting-edge flat than a store. They offer exclusive
artisan products and limited edition designs by Croatia’s
most creative minds - - from t-shirts, handbags and ceram-
ics to craft beer and wine. Also, it’s one of the only places
in town where you can get great hand-roasted coffee to
Break Time Nautical Archives go!QHvarska 2, tel. (+385 - ) 099 668 0145, www.kawa.
life. Open 12:00 - 20:00.
KLARISA GALLERY
Hidden on the first floor of the old Dubrovnik house and TURQWISE
located in the true Dubrovnik saloča, this charming gallery Did you know? The word turquoise comes from the name
is filled with paintings by artists from all parts of Croatia, of a colour the French gave to a mineral from Turkey. The
and in particular Dubrovnik. In addition, there are a great Dubrovnik Republic was responsible for introducing this
number of sculptures and jewelry as made by young Croa- colour to Europe. Products offered from this store are de-
tian fashion designers.QC‑2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-) signed using this soothing colour. They offer unique plexi
099 243 59 44. Open 12:00 - 21:00. A rings, each topped with a unique and modern shape, as
well as graphic design modern art posters and photos,
ROMANA ATELIER which represent the sea.QB‑2, Ulica Getaldićeva 3, tel.
Colourful abstract pieces featuring Dubrovnik motifs. (+385-) 095 905 42 40, www.turqwise.com. Open 09:00
QC‑3, Marojice Kaboge bb, tel. (+385-) 091 522 98 - 23:00. J
98/(+385-) 091 501 33 18, www.romana-milutin.com.
Open 10:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 22:00. A
TALIR
CIGAR SHOP
Exhibitions and works by famous and lesser known Croa- LA CASA DEL HABANO
tian artists for sale.QB‑2, Čubranovićeva 7, tel. (+385-20) Cigars, from Cuba, Honduras and Dominican Republic.
32 32 93. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A Smoke it up, dudes.QC‑3, Od Puča 1, tel. (+385-) 091
484 91 62, www.havana-cigar-shop.com/la-casa-del-
WORKSHOP BE CRAFT habano-dubrovnik. Open 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
This workshop oozesss craft with products made of glass, From June Open 12:00 - 24:00. A
stone and ceramics depicting sea designs and images of
the Mediterranean and Dubrovnik. The store is located
close to the Old Town and you can even get items custom DELICATESSEN
designed.QL‑2, Put Petra Krešimira IV 31, tel. (+385-20) DUBROVAČKA KUĆA
31 26 46, www.becraft.eu. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed A treasure trove of local culture ready to take home: from
Sat, Sun. A artworks to postcards, cosmetics, sweets, wines and spir-
its, all local or Croatian.QD‑2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+385-
CHIC & CHEERFUL 20) 32 20 92. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A
BREAK TIME - NAUTICAL BRACELETS
GLIGORA WINE & CHEESE SHOP
For an exceptional souvenir from Dubrovnik you have to
Situated in the city’s harbour, Gruž, this shop offers a large
visit this jewellery shop of a different kind. Both Mirela and
selection of cheeses, wines, olive oils and jams. The vari-
Ionut have come from abroad and followed their dream
ous delicious cheeses are produced by the Gligora family
in creating handcrafted super cool necklaces, bracelets,
in the town Kolan, located in the heart of the island Pag.
key rings and other bibs and bobs that feature nautical
The Gligora family has won numerous awards, includ-
icons such as mini anchors and compasses, all of which
ing the World Cheese Award, for it’s Dinarski sir, mixed
are waterproof. You’ve got to see to believe these great
cheese made from cow and sheep’s milk. Other well-
accessories!QC‑2, Antuninska 5, tel. (+385-20) 71 65 53,
known cheeses they produce include, Kozlar made from
www.nautical-bracelets.com. Open 09:30 - 21:30.
goat’s milk and Paški sir, cheese from sheep’s milk.QI‑2,
CVIJET BY KIKE Obala Stjepana Radića 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 41 00, www.
For a beautiful flower arrangement for any occasion, gligora.com/gdje-kupiti-sireve/trgovine/gligora-
from weddings to holiday celebrations, this chic flower trgovina-dubrovnik. Open: 07:00 - 18:00, Sun 07:00 -
shop will help you show your loved ones you care with 13:00. A­G­B

68 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 69
Shopping Where to stay
JEWELLERY HOTELS Private apartments are the most widely available type
of accommodation, especially on the islands. It seems that
CLARA STONES In Croatia hotels aregraded two, three, four or five star. every house on the Adriatic coast has rooms or apartments
Handmade unique pieces of jewelry made from carefully to let in the summer months. This is a way of life in Croatia,
Hotels graded two star are usually managed by the own-
chosen Adriatic red corals, pearls, semiprecious and pre- and usually provides one of the main sources of income
ers, so the advantages include a friendly family atmo-
cious stones, which may leave some women breathless. for families.
sphere. The hotels are clean but basic and are equipped
The uniqueness of this store is its presentation depart-
very simply. Most two star hotels do not have their own
ment which shows how a coral branch is worked on and The advantages of holidaying in apartments on the Croa-
restaurant but you can usually find good restaurants with
the different phases of its lifecycle.QC‑2, Nalješkovićeva reasonable prices nearby. tian coast include great value for money and direct contact
8, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 06, www.clarastones.com. Open with the owner. The choice of apartments on the Croatian
09:30 - 20:00. J­A Three star hotels generally offer rather more spacious ac- coast is diverse, ranging from low-priced rooms to luxury
commodation with well-equipped rooms, but the hotel apartments. It used to be common for owners of private
DUBROVNIK TREASURES services usually do not include a porter. Three star hotels rooms to stand on the main highway that runs along the
Dubrovnik Treasures offers a large selection of high- usually have mid-sized restaurants. The availability of room coast or at bus and train stations holding signs saying “Zim-
quality jewellery for a great price. Along with authentic service depends on the hotel. A car park, gym and swim- mer Frei” (“Vacant Room” in German, since the majority of
and traditional Croatian jewellery, they also have many ming pool are frequently provided. visitors at that time were German-speaking). Accommoda-
pieces made with a unique or modern design. Each piece Four star hotels are usually large formal hotels with staffed tion advertised in this way is usually lower in quality and is
of jewellery is handmade in Dubrovnik by local designers, reception areas and porters. Four star hotels are usually often illegal but the owner may be open to a little haggling
using a combination of Adriatic coral, freshwater pearls, as located close to areas with shops, restaurants and other if the tourist is prepared for a little excitement!
well as semi precious stones with sterling silver or vermeil. main attractions. The level of service is significantly above
Stone villas are an increasingly popular choice for families
Also at Boškovićeva 2 (C-2).QB‑2, Celestina Medovića 2, average, the rooms are tastefully furnished and the hotel
who have a little more money to spend, especially in Istria.
tel. (+385-20) 32 10 98, www.dubrovniktreasures.com. usually has a good restaurant. Room service is usually avail-
When you reserve a villa like this it is important to find out
Open 09:00 - 21:00. From July Open 09:00 - 23:00. A able for most of the day. Most often guests have use of a car
how far you will be from the sea, if that is important to you,
park, gym and one or more swimming pools.
because many such properties are located in the hinter-
KRIŽEK
Five star hotels offer the highest quality accommoda- land, although they may have swimming pools. Villas are
This family-run chain of goldsmiths was established in
tion. Although most five star hotels are large, some are often outside highly populated areas, so are an ideal choice
1935. They have an extensive collection of modern jewel- small independent hotels (i.e. not part of a chain) offering if peace and quiet are important factors in your choice.
lery created in precious metals, coral and pearl, and a wide an elegant intimacy. Five star hotels have restaurants with
Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives
selection of wedding rings.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 2, tel. carefully selected menus. Room service is usually available Those who love to be alone and completely unplug from
(+385-20) 32 20 27, www.krizek.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00, round the clock. Guests usually have a fitness centre and civilisation can also select Robinson Crusoe style ac-
KRAŠ
Sat 09:00 - 14:00. A spa on offer and a parking service or garage. A receptionist commodation in remote bays or on small islands such as
The confectionary company Croatians have known and
loved for years. Try Bajadera chocolate and hazelnut is also on duty 24 hours. Pašman, Drvenik or Dugi Otok. Accommodation like this
sweets, or a bag of Krašotice biscuits.QC‑2, Zamanjina SOUVENIRS Croatia also offers specialised wellness hotels which have
may not even have a connection to mains water or electric-
ity, using rainwater and solar power. It is the perfect choice
2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 49, www.kras.hr. Open 08:00 - opened to meet global demand for health and wellness
DEŠA PRO if you want to enjoy unspoilt nature and be right by the sea.
22:00. A tourism. Most of the wellness and spa centres are located in
Deša is an NGO created during the Homeland War to give
OLEOTEKA UJE support to women and families affected by the conflict of Opatija, Dubrovnik and on Lošinj island. The island of Lošinj
Hmmm…The first Croatian oil shop that offers a wide the 1990’s. The organization’s main goal is to build a strong has a tradition of health tourism going back 125 years, with HOSTELS
range of Croatian olive oils from Istria, the island of Brač and sustainable society by helping to empower marginal- its roots in the Austro-Hungarian Empire when the island's Hostels are meeting places offering individuality, variety,
and Zadar, whilst also offering an array of Mediterranean ized women. Deša Pro, located just outside the Ploče gate, beneficial climate and vegetation were first recognised. simplicity and a friendly atmosphere, all at a reasonable
spices and dry fruits. Good nibbles!QC‑2, Od puča 2, tel. sells authentic souvenirs, local delicacies and handicrafts. Heritage hotels are located in older buildings of cultural price. Hostels were once ultra-basic but today they are
(+385-20) 32 48 65, www.uje.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. QL‑2, Frana Supila 8. Open 09:00 - 18:00. A and historic significance. The hotel menu should be repre- modern, safe and fun places of a surprisingly high standard.
May Open 09:00 - 21:00. June Open 09:00 - 22:00. A sentative of local cuisine.
DUTY FREE SHOP As well as a multitude of campsites, apartments, resorts
ŠKAR WINERY Boutique hotels are luxurious smaller hotels with an inti- and hotels, the Croatian coast in recent times has become
One of the perks of travelling is being able to buy duty
Ahoy, Mateys! This unique wine and souvenir shop is lo- mate atmosphere. They may be part of a larger chain, but home to fantastic unique hostels which contribute to mak-
free. The Dubrovnik Duty Free Shop offers the expected
cated in an old shipyard in the city’s stunning harbour. they are unique in the way that they are decorated, each ing the country a brilliant place to stay.
range of products you see at similar stores, the exception
The small family-run business started selling it’s home- room often being different. Here the individual approach
here is the traditional Croatian products and gift packages
made Lekri wines four years ago. The grapes are grown is based on anticipating guests' needs before they even Hostels in Croatia are inexpensive so it's only to be expect-
which will exemplify your stay in our grand city. You won’t articulate them. These small, luxury hotels are becoming ed that the creature comforts are not the same as in other
and picked in their vineyards on Pelješac and brought to
have to rush as the shop opens 1.5 hours prior to the first more popular in this region over the last few years as guests types of accommodation. They are popular with young
the winery in Dubrovnik where the superb Plavac mali, a
international flight of the day and closes 1 hour after the become weary of the standard offering. people who are just passing through and who only need
supreme dry red wine and Rukatac, a quality dry white
last designated flight.QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Ko‑ a place to stay for a night or two, although anyone who
wine are produced. The Krile family also makes liqueurs
navle. needs cheaper accommodation can use hostels.
with a diverse assortment of flavors- careb, cherry, lemon
and many more. The souvenirs are all knickknacks made
PRIVATE ACCOMMODATION
by local Dubrovnik artists. This extraordinary wine tasting In Croatia there are more rooms available in private accom- Rooms in hostels usually have multiple beds and shared
experience is not to be missed!QH‑2, Lapadska obala facebook.com/ modation than in hotels. Family-run hotels are taking on an bathrooms, but the level of comfort offered is becoming
increasingly important role in Croatian tourism and aim to ever closer to that offered by hotels.
17, tel. (+385-) 098 78 77 05, www.lekri.eu. From May dubrovnikinyourpocket attract guests all year round.
Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 22:00.

70 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 71
Arrival & Getting Around Arrival & Getting Around
book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than ably quickest, but you may wish to take a detour through
24 hours prior to travelling.QI‑2, Obala S. Radića 40, tel. the fair city of Sarajevo. When you get into Dubrovnik, a one
(+385-20) 41 80 00/(+385-20) 41 83 80, www.jadrolinija. way system leads east and west of the Old Town – try to
hr. Open 08:00 - 16:30; 19:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 09:30; have a map handy!
19:00 - 20:00. From April 10 Open 08:00 - 16:30; 19:00 -
20:00. Mon, Wed Open 08:00 -16:30; 19:00 - 22:00. Sun
Open 08:00 - 09:30; 19:00 - 20:00. From May 19 Open ARRIVING BY PLANE
08:00 - 16:30; 19:00 - 20:00. Mon, Wed, Fri Open 08:00 The airport is located 20 km southeast of Dubrovnik. It’s
-16:30; 19:00 - 22:00. Sun Open 08:00 - 09:30; 19:00 - small, clean, and functional. There is a restaurant and café,
20:00. plus information, exchange offices, and ATMs. A car hire fa-
cilities are to be found in the arrivals hall. Getting to town:
KAPETAN LUKA, KRILO scheduled flights are met by an Atlas bus which trundles
Krilo catamaran is running to Dubrovnik from Split and into town (40 kn one-way), dropping off at Pile Gate (main Photo by Ivana Stanešić
back, via Milna, Hvar, Korčula and Mljet April 24 - October entrance to the Old Town) before proceeding to the ferry
28. Check the sailing schedule here. Tickets can be bought
at Avansa Travel (Open 09:00 - 20:00. Sun 09:00 - 16:00.)
port and the bus station. Municipal buses no. 11, 27 and
38 also connect the airport to the town centre (28 kn
TOURIST INFORMATION
and Elite Travel (Open 08:00 - 16:00.) agencies in port at one way), but only run a few times a day. Airport Shuttle CENTRES
Gruž. During the summer season, tickets get sold out up buses now operate from Dubrovnik Airport to Korčula Is-
to 5 days before the departure.QI‑2, Port Gruž, www. land, Pelješac and Mljet – includes Vela Luka, Brna, Korčula
krilo.hr. 80 - 190kn one way, depending on your final Town, Lumbarda, Orebić, Trpanj, and Prapratno (for ferry to
destination. Mljet). The bus will run daily from 30.04 to 30.09.2017 with
connections several times a day. To book your place on the
shuttle bus (advance booking only), simply get in touch
ARRIVING BY BUS with the korkyra.info travel agency. A taxi ride into town
The coach station is a short walk from the ferry terminal will cost 200 – 250 kn. The Tourist Information Centres enlisted below are the
at Gruž with all its amenities. ​There are frequent services official tourist centres of the City of Dubrovnik. All the
DUBROVNIK AIRPORT (ZRAČNA LUKA DU-
to almost all Croatian destinations, while international lines information and materials made available are free and
BROVNIK)
mostly head for Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a handful you are more than welcome to visit them.
Dubrovnik Neretva County Tourist Board Archives QČilipi, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 77 31 00/(+385-20) 77
of buses for cities in Italy and Montenegro. Coach travel is
33 33, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr. PILE
the quickest and cheapest choice for those on a budget,
ARRIVING BY BOAT but if you’re heading for Zagreb, check prices with Croa- QC‑2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, www.
tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00, July, August
There are two harbours in Dubrovnik: the centuries-old tia Airlines first. You may save yourself some money and a CAR RENTAL Open 08:00-22:00.
harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town, and the 14 hour journey! Ticket office: open 05:30 - 21:30, tel. 060
AVIS - BUDGET
commercial port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office and 30 50 70 for information. Changing money: head east for GRUŽ
QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-) 091 314 30 19,
quay are at Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town. Gruž harbour, where there are ATMs and exchange offices. QH‑1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-20) 41
www.avis.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. A
The port looks onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of Toilets: inside the terminal, costing 3kn. Left luggage: the 79 83, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Dubrovnik’s hotels are located. Getting to town: hop onto cloakroom (garderoba) works 04:30 - 22:00, 5kn for the first DOLLAR&THRIFTY July, August Open 08:00-21:00.
an orange bus numbered 1A, 1B, 1C or 3. A ticket for a sin- hour, and 1.50kn per hour thereafter. Public phones are on QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 35 88/
the platform. Getting to town: buses to town stop right LAPAD
gle trip costs 12 kn if you buy it from a news kiosk, 15 kn if (+385-) 098 42 49 03, www.carrentalsubrosa.com.
outside the station; take line 1A, 1B, or 3. Tickets cost 15kn QG‑2, Masarykov put 2, Dvori Lapad, tel. (+385-20)
you buy it from the driver. Tickets must be validated using Open 07:00 - 21:00, andro.sukno@subrosa.hr. A
from the driver or 12kn if you buy them in a kiosk or in a 43 74 60, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00,
the machine next to the driver immediately upon boarding.
ticket office. Taxis wait by the platform. HERTZ Sat, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00. July, August
Also at Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi 08:00 - 20:00 every day, Open 08:00 -20:00.
G&V LINE
Catamaran (Nona Ana) line from Dubrovnik to Mljet via COACH STATION (AUTOBUSNI KOLODVOR) tel: (+385-20) 77 15 68, (+385-) 091 425 11 11.QL‑2, Frana LOPUD
Šipan, sails to Korčula and Lastovo in July and August. Tick- QH‑1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II bb, tel. (+385-) 060 30 Supila 9, tel. (+385-20) 42 50 00/(+385-) 091 425 00 01, QObala I. Kuljevana 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 23 22,
ets can be bought in Gruž Harbour in front of the boat at 50 70, www.libertasdubrovnik.hr. Open 05:30 - 22:30. www.hertz.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 -
least half an hour before departure (one hour in July and Sun on request. A 19:00, Closed Fri. July, August Open 08:00 -20:00,
August). As changes to time-table are possible, check it by MACK Tue, Thur 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00.
calling the phone number mentioned above 8:00 - 16:00. ARRIVING BY CAR Also at Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-) 098 32 09 15, ŠIPAN
Catamaran cannot board any vehicles.QG‑1, Vukovarska For the time being, there is a motorway to Ploče (exit 098 42 21 92, Open 08:00 - 20:00.QL‑2, Frana Supila 3, tel. QLuka bb, Luka Šipanska, tel. (+385-20) 75 80 84,
36, tel. (+385-20) 31 31 19, www.gv-line.hr. 25 - 95kn Karamatići), 100 km away from Dubrovnik. After the exit (+385-20) 42 37 47/(+385-) 098 32 09 15, www.rent-a- www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 -
one way per person depending on time of the year and just follow signs for Dubrovnik. Just south of Metković you car.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. A 19:00, Closed Tue. July, August Open 09:00 - 13:00,
your final destination. pass through a corridor belonging to Bosnia and Herzego-
vina, so keep your passport or ID card handy. Check “Visa” UNI RENT 18:00 - 20:00, Closed Tue.
JADROLINIJA under City Basics. Also at Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 34 80, ZATON
Jadrolinja ferries operate to Elafiti islands, Mljet island, be- Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter BiH from dubrovnik-airport@uni-rent.hr, Open 08:00 - 20:00.QF/ QZaton Veliki 2, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 30, www.
tween Mljet and Pelješac, and to the Italian port of Bari. the A3 (E70) heading east from Zagreb, or via one of the G‑3, Masarykov put 9, tel. (+385-20) 33 36 64/(+385-) tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00,
Tickets for local catamarans and international ferries can roads heading south from Hungary. Of the possible routes, 099 219 55 15, www.uni-rent.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Closed Wed.
be purchased online. For local catamarans it is possible to Bosanska Gradiška – Banja Luka – Jajce – Mostar is prob- Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A

72 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 73
Arrival & Getting Around Dubrovnik Basics
in the city for a route map. Tickets for journeys within the
city cost 12kn from news kiosks (15kn from the driver) and NATIONAL HOLIDAYS TOILETS
must be validated in the ticket-stamping machines imme- There are four public toilets in Dubrovnik Old City which
diately upon boarding. Out-of-town routes cost a little bit January 1 New Year’s Day will cost you 5 kn. Two of them are in Pile, one in Ploče,
more (the journey to Cavtat for example costs 25kn each January 6 Epiphany and one is at the Fishmarket (Peskarija). All are open 07:00
way) and tickets are bought from the driver. www.liber- April 16 Easter - 23:00, Peskarija 07:00 - 02:00.
tasdubrovnik.hr April 17 Easter Monday
May 1 International Workers’ Day
LIBERTAS
June 15 Corpus Christi WATER
QI‑2, Vukovarska 42, tel. (+385-) 099 407 32 74/(+385-
June 22 Anti-Fascist Resistance Day Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.
20) 35 70 20, www.libertasdubrovnik.hr.
June 25 Statehood Day
August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day
TAXI August 15 Feast of the Assumption WHEN THINGS GO WRONG
October 8 Independence Day Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Dubrovnik signifi-
There are multiple taxi companies in Dubrovnik, so there
November 1 All Saints’ Day cantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should
should be no shortage of transport to get you from A to B.
December 25 Christmas keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an
Rates appear to be uniform throughout the city, with prices
December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emer-
starting at 29kn, and each kilometre costing you 9kn.
gency Number (+385-) 112 which then transfers you to
PLAVI TAXI DUBROVNIK police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city
Qtel. (+385-20) 33 22 22. district, in case you were involved in an accident or were ar-
ELECTRICITY rested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that
RADIO TAXI DUBROVNIK The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building
Qtel. (+385-20) 41 14 11, www.radiotaxidubrovnik. United States will need to use a transformer to run electri- for ER is located in General Hospital in Roka Mišetića bb
com. cal appliances. (H-3) where everything necessary will be done. In case of
TAXI RAGUSA DUBROVNIK an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385-) 1987,
Qtel. (+385-) 800 14 41, www.taxidubrovnik.eu. and as for accidents on the sea call (+385-) 195.
MONEY
There are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as
TOWED AWAY well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours
If you were naughty and parked illegally, a big truck might a day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but
Stay up-to-date come and tow your little broom-broom away! Oh no! If that not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on
happens, don’t be too sad, all is not lost. Visit the depot in you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area,
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Gospino polje (leads from Pile to Lapad, open 24/7). The you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of
bad news is you’ll be charged anything from 500 - 1000kn cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that
for the trouble, plus a police fine of up to 300 - 700kn. Let’s let you put it on plastic could be a problem.
PARKING face it, it could be worse! The people there speak English
Central Dubrovnik can be a nightmare when it comes to and accept payment by credit card.
ROADS
parking, and it’s not uncommon to see visitors driving SANITAT DUBROVNIK
around in circles for hours in the hope of finding a free When behind the wheel drivers must always have their
QMarka Marojice 5, tel. (+385-20) 64 01 40, www. driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.
space. Your best bet is to head for the multi-storey car sanitat.hr/en/.
park at Ilijina Glavica (Zagrebačka ulica, K-2), well-placed Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt
for people entering the city from the west. A bus shuttles and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alco-
passengers from the car park to the Old Town’s Pile Gate, TRAVEL AGENCIES hol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in
urban areas is 50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h
although with Pile sitting a mere ten minutes downhill on GULLIVER TRAVEL
foot, you might not need it. Parking costs 5 - 40kn per hour on secondary roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they
Excursions, unique Croatia cruises, tours, transfers... www. say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.
depending on which zone you’re in, and the season. croatia-excursions.hrQI‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25,
SANITAT DUBROVNIK tel. (+385-20) 41 08 88, www.gulliver.hr. Open 08:00 -
QMarka Marojice 5, tel. (+385-20) 64 01 40, www. 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A SMOKING
sanitat.hr/en/. KORKYRA Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café
QE‑1, Hvarska 42, tel. (+385-20) 42 16 89, www.korkyra- culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does
mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establish-
PUBLIC TRANSPORT dubrovnik.com. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
ments are more packed than usual. Recent law amend-
From May Open 09:00 - 21:00. A
The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray, free- ments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits
dom!). You’ll be amazed how efficient and clean they are. VIVADO or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces
They connect the coach station and Gruž harbour with Boat excursions, accommodation, B&B, airport transfer, including restaurants where it has never been easy to find
the Old Town and hotels on Lapad, and take you to Cavtat tourist information...QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re pre-
in the south of the county, and Pelješac in the north. See tel. (+385-) 098 166 31 61, www.vivado.hr. Open 09:00 pared to move inside.
the company’s website or any number of placards or fliers - 20:00. N
www.inyourpocket.com

74 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 75
Street register City Centre Map

Gusta Me
A. Barca H-2/3 Brsalje A-2 G. Rajčevića I-2/3 Između polača C-2
A. Bošković J-2/3 Brsečinska I-2 Garište B-2 Izvijačica A-1
A. Hallera I-2 Bunićeva poljana C-3 Getaldićeva B-2 J. Berse H-2
A. Hebranga H-1/I-2/J-2 Buža D-1 Gorica Sv. Vlaha H/I-3 J. Pupačića H-2
A. Kazali H-2 Cavtatska K-2 Gornji kono I/J/K-2 Jakljanska H-1
A. Mihanovića J-2 Celestina Medovića B-2 Gradac J-3 Janjinska H-2
A. Šenoe H-2 Crijevićeva C-4 Gradićeva D-4 Josipa Kosora I-3

Salvatore
A.G. Matoša I-2 Cvijete Zuzorić C-3 Grbava C-4 Kantafig G-1
A.T. Mimare K-2 Čubranovićeva B-2 Grebenska H-2 Kardinala Stepinca F-2
Androvićeva C-4 Ćilipska I-2 Grudska K-2 Kaznačićeva C-3
Ante Starčevića I-2 Ćira Carića G-2 Gruška obala H-1 Kliševska G-2
Antuninska C-2 D. Pulića A-1 Gundulićeva poljana C/D-3 Kneza Domagoja H-2
Aquarium E-3 Dalmatinska H-2 Hanibala Lucića C-1 Kneza Branimira I-2
Arhiv D-2 Dante Alighieria J-3 Hladnica H-3 Kneza Damjana Jude E-3
Asimon E-1 Dinka Ranjine C-3 Hliđina B-3 Kneza Hrvaša C-4
B. Bušića L-2 Dolska H-1 Hodiljska I-2 Knežev dvor D-3
Bernarda Shawa K-2 Dr. A. Šercera H-2 Hvarska E-1 Koločepska L-2
Babin Kuk G-2 Dr. V. Mačeka I-2 I. Matijaševića J-2 Komajska H-2
Bandureva D-4 Dračasta K-2 I. Račića L-2 Komolačka G-1
Banjska I-3 Dropčeva C-2 I. Vojnovića H-2, I-3 Konavoska L-2
Batahovina G-1 Državna cesta D-8 Ilije Sarake D-4 Korčulanska I-3
Batala H/I-2 Dubravkina G-2 Imotska I-1 Koritska H-1
Biokovska G-2 Dunavska G-2/3 Ispod Minčete B-1 Kotorska I-3
Bokar A-3 Džamija C-3 Ispod mira D-4 Kovačka D-2
Bokeljska G-1 Đorđićeva B-2 Ispod Petke G-2 Kralja Tomislava H-2
Boninovo J-3 Đura Baljevića D-4 Istarska J-3 Kunićeva C-2
Bosanka L-2 Đura Basaričeka I-1 Ive Dulčića G-2 Kunska I-1

Mirage
Boškovićeva C-2 E. Kumičića H-2 Ivana Zajca G/H-1 L. Matačića H-1

Bistro Tavulin
Božatska I-2 F. Kolumbića H-2 Ivanska G-3 L. Rogovskog G/H-2

Exit Rock Café
Braće Andrijića D-4 F. Prešerna I-2 Iza Grada B-1, K-2 Lapad G-3
Branitelja Dubrovnika J-3 F. Supila L-2 Između ribnjaka H-2 Lapadska obala H-2
Brdasta J-2 Ferićeva B-3 Između tri crkve J-2 Lazareti L-2

Gaffe Pub

Konoba Jezuite
Brgatska L-2 Flore Jakšić G-2 Između vrta K-3 Lazarina L-2

Taj Mahal
Glam cafe

Mea Culpa
Klarisa
Dubravka

76 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2017 77
City Map City Map
Liechtensteinov put H/I-3 Metohijska I-1 Od Batale H-2 Od Tabakarije K-3 Poljana Marina Držića D-3 Solinska I-2 Sv.Dominika D-2 Vladimira Nazora J-2
Lokrum L-3 Miha Pracata C-2 Od borova H-2 Oraška G-2 Poljana Paska Miličevića B-2 Solitudo G-1 Sv. Josipa B-3 Vatroslava Lisinskog G-2
Lokrumska K-2 Minčeta B/C-1 Od čempresa J-2 P. Budmani K-2 Poljana Ruđera Boškovića C-4 Sponza D-2 Sv.Nikole H-1 Velebitska G-2
Lopudska H-1 Mljetska H/I-1 Od Danača J-3 P. Čingrije I-3 Pomoraca H-1 Srebrenska J-2 Šetalište kralja Zvonimira G/H-2 Velika Petka G-3
Lovrijenac K-3 Mokoška I-1 Od Domina B-3 P. Krešimira IV L-2 Pomorski muzej E-4 Srednji kono K-2 Šetalište Nike i Meda Pucića F-2 Vetranićeva C-2
Lovrina L-2 Moluntska G-1 Od gaja I-1/2, J-2 P. Preradovića H-2 Porat E-3 Stayeva E-4 Šibenska G-2 Vicina K-2
Lučarica D-3 Montovjerna I-2 Od Gale I/J-2 Padre Perice I-1 Porporela E-3/4 Stonska G-2 Šipanska H-1 Viška I-2
Luka Dubrovnik H-1 Mosorska G-2 Od Greba Žudioskih K-2 Palmotićeva C-2 Posat E-2 Strossmayerova C-3 Šipčine I-2 Vlaha Paljetka H-1
Luke Sorkočevića G-2 Most Dubrovnik G-1 Od Gradca J-3 Paska Baburice H-2 Postranjska I-2 Stulina D-4 Široka C-2 Vukovarska I-2
Ljubuška H-1 Mrtvo zvono B-4 Od Hladnice H-3 Pećarica C-3 Pred Dvorom D-3 Stradun B-2 Tivatska J-2 Za kapelicom K-2
M. Blažića K-3 N. Ljubičića I-2 Od Kaštela B-4 Peline C-1 Prelazna B-3 Sunčana L-2 Tmušasta C-3 Za Kamenom E-4
M. Budaka K-2 N. Nodila J-2 Od Kolorine K-3 Pelješka K-2 Pridvorska J-2 Sustjepanska I-2 Topolska I-2 Za Rokom B-3
M. Dizdara I-1 Na Andriji B-3 Od Margarite C-4 Pera Bakića J-2 Prijeko B-2/3, C-2 Sv. Barbara C-1 Trg oružja E-2 Za rupama B-3
M. Gjaje J-2 Na Mihajlu H-2 Od maslinate L-2 Petilovrijenci C-2 Primorska G-2 Sv. Đurđa A-2, K-3 Trnovička I-2 Zadarska G-2
M. Gupca K-2 Na Ponti D-2 Od Montovjerne I-2 Petra Svačića G-2 Privežna J-2 Sv. Ivan E-3 Trpanjska G-1 Zagrebačka J/K-2
M. Hamzića I-2 Nalješkovićeva C-2 Od Nuncijate H-1 Pile J/K-3 Puljizeva B-3 Sv. Jakov D-1 Trstenska G-2 Zamanjina C-2
M. Jarnovića G-2 Napice L-2 Od polača C-2 Pionirska H-1 Put od Bosanke L-2 Sv. Križa H-1 U pilama K-3 Zatonska G-2
M. Mrnarevića I-2 Neumska H-1 Od puča C/B-3 Placa C/D-2 Restićeva D-4 Sv. Lucija C-1 Udarnička I-2 Zlatarićeva B-2
M. Vodopića G/H-2 Nikole Božidarevića B/C-3 Od pustijerne D-4 Placa – Stradun C-2 Revelin E-1 Sv. Luka E-2 Uvala Gruž H-1 Zlatarska D-2
Mala Petka G-3 Nikole Gučetića C-3 Od Rupa B-3 Platska J-3 Riječka G-1 Sv. Petar B-4 Uvala Sumartin F-3 Zrinsko-Frankopanska K-2/3
Mandaljenska G-3 Nikole Tesle H/I-2 Od Sigurate B-2 Ploče L-2 Ribarnica D-2 Sv. Spasitelj E-4 Uz Giman H-2 Zvijezdićeva B-3/4
Marina Držića D-3 Nuncijata H-1 Od Srđa K-2 Plovani skalini C-1 Roka Mišetića H-3 Sv. Stjepan D-4 Uz Glavicu H-2 Željezničarska H-1
Marka Marojice H-2 Obala S. Radića I-2 Od Sv. Mihajla H-2 Pobijana D-4 S.S. Kranjčevića I-2 Sv. Šimuna B-4 Uz Jezuite C-3/4 Žudioska D-2
Marojice Kaboge C-3 Obodska K-2 Od škara I-1 Pobreška H-1 Savska G-3 Sv. Vid C-1 Uz mline K-2 Žuljanska I-2
Masarykov put F/G-3 Obuljenska J-2 Od šorte B-3 Poljana Mrtvo zvono B-4 Sinjska I-2 Sv. Vlaha D-3 Uz posat B-1 Župska L-2
Slanska G-2 Sv. Marije B-3 Uz tabor K-2

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