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Where real food, wine
and culture survived
The first explorer to
bond the east and west
Paths of Salt
From the Roman Empire
to now, salt is still as
valued as ever
N°19 - complimentary copy
Special tourist discount card
Available at all Tourist Information Offices,
Cultural Institutions, Hotels & Travel Agencies
Includes free entrance to cultural institutions
and public transport rides
No charge for children up to 12 y.o.
Includes free entrance to City Walls, Maritime Museum, Cultural-historical Museum
in Rector’s Palace, Natural History Museum Dubrovnik, Home of Marin Držić, Art Gallery
Dubrovnik, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Dulčić-Masle-Pulitika Gallery...
and discounts in restaurants, rent-a-car, souvenir shops...
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
A warm welcome with a wow factor
Arrival & Getting Around
SOS! Have no fear, DIYP is here
The A-Z of Dubrovnik
Croatia’s Secret Islands
Top 5 islands you must see
Culture & Events
Festivities both new and old
Merchant and adventurer
Feel the heartbeat of the city
Dubrovnik - Neretva County Tourist Board Archives - Photo by
To discover and experience Croatia’s pristine beauty check p. 13
Spilling the beans of where to eat
Authentic dishes and wine
Coffee & Cakes
Giving you a slice of the pie
Special places for special moments
Paths Of Salt 59
A lasting tradition of natural wealth
Maps & Index
City Centre Map
Dubrovnik county map
Dubrovnik Surroundings 66
Out and about
Solana Ston Archives
The more the merrier
Grain by grain and the paths of salt were made p. 59
Summer 2016 5
Arrival & Getting Around
Dear travellers, do you know how good you have it right here
in Dubrovnik? You can drop off your luggage, grab your towels,
and head for the sea as soon as you arrive, you can sip coffee or
drink cocktails under palm trees all day long. Yet, this wasn’t the
case for visitors back in the 15th century, it was all due to the
building of the ‘Minceta tower’ where there was a short supply
of stone and as such it was decreed that every visitor to the city
had to bring a stone in accordance with their body’s constitution.
Imagine that! Thankfully, we won’t have you do as such, if you
build anything, it will probably be some nifty sandcastles at most.
ARRIVING BY PLANE
Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb
Company Office & Accounts
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia
Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 557 38 27, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24
Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.
Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja
On that note we welcome to the Jewel of the Adriatic, the fortified city of Dubrovnik, one of the ten best preserved medieval
walled cities in the world. Summer is peak season with many
tourists flocking to see the city and we at IYP are here to help
your stay, be better than OK!
Editor Višnja Arambašić
Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan
Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Nikola Badovinac
Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac
Assistant Editor Blanka Valić
Community Manager Eli Gajinov
Design Lovro Boljat
Photography Dubrovnik In Your Pocket team unless
Cover © Solana Ston by Nenad Reberšak
Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević
Support Sales Blanka Valić, Eli Gajinov
Our feature summer edition is compact with lots of handy information to help you get around. We have a feature on the
top 5 islands to visit whilst in Croatia, our meticulous panel will
have you island hopping in no time. We also have a ‘Top 5 gifts
for hungry travellers’ special with authentic products from the
Adriatic Coast, perfect for a souvenir or gift. Our Food Guide ought
to help those rumbling tummies settle, whilst wine lovers will
appreciate the Pelješac wines from this region. Read up on Marco
Polo where it is believed that he was born on the nearby island
of Korčula. See what’s hot and what’s not in terms of nightlife
and the inevitable café culture that is second nature to local folk.
Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication
may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the
purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher
and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used
under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius,
Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Dubrovnik In Your Pocket is
not responsible for any information which might change after
publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.
It can get extremely hot here so make sure you‘slip, slap and slop’
that sun cream, make sure you see as much of Dubrovnik as you
can, and make sure you take the time to sit and appreciate the
beautiful surroundings you have found yourselves. From us all
here at IYP, we wish you a super summer stay!
The airport is located 20km southeast of Dubrovnik. It’s
small, clean, and functional. There is a restaurant and
café, plus information, exchange offices, and ATMs. A
post office and car hire facilities are all to be found in
the arrivals hall. Getting to town: scheduled flights
are met by an Atlas bus which trundles into town (35 kn
one-way), dropping off at Pile Gate (main entrance to
the Old Town) before proceeding to the ferry port and
the bus station. Municipal buses no. 11 and 27 also connect the airport to the town centre (28kn one way), but
only run a few times a day. A taxi ride into town will cost
200 - 250kn.
DUBROVNIK AIRPORT (ZRAČNA LUKA DUBROVNIK)
QČilipi, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 77 31 00/(+385-20)
77 33 33, email@example.com, www.
EUROPEAN COASTAL AIRLINES
Now it’s easier than ever to get from the mainland to
the islands in Croatia. The European Coastal Airlines
offer daily hydroplane transfers. With these multiple
flight connections throughout the Adriatic, you can
even discover some of the most secluded islands along
the coastline. At this time, the ECA has the following
Seaside Airports up and running:
Čilipi, Konavle, www.ec-air.eu
QSeaside Airport Lastovo
Obala lastovskih ribara 4, Ubli, tel. (+385-20) 80 50 50,
QSeaside Airport Vela Luka
Obala 4, Vela Luka, tel. (+385-20) 81 20 31, velaluka@
Souvenir shops are located at all of the airports. At the
souvenir shops you can buy interesting souvenirs featuring hydroplane designs and useful beach products. Passengers can purchase tickets at any dock at the addresses
mentioned above, where they will also have a ticket office.
And, of course, online at www.ec-air.eu. During the summer months the Ticket Offices will be open even longer. The
flight schedules can be viewed online at www.ec-air.eu or
printed copies are available at the docks.
ARRIVING BY BUS
The coach station is a short walk from the ferry terminal
at Gruž with all its amenities. There are frequent services
to almost all Croatian destinations, while international lines
mostly head for Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a handful
of buses for cities in Italy and Montenegro. Coach travel is
the quickest and cheapest choice for those on a budget,
but if you’re heading for Zagreb, check prices with Croa-
6 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
We have been busy these past couple of
months. Aside from launching a brand-new guide in Milan, Italy, we have also
been applying the finishing touches
to our new digital platform at inyourpocket.com. Radically redesigned and
restructured to place the visitor at the
heart of the cities we cover, our new
website puts you in total control of our
content on whatever desktop, laptop or
mobile device you are using. Give it a
go: it‘s the biggest digital leap forward
we have ever taken and entrenches our
position as a game-changing publisher
in all formats.
To keep up with all that’s new at In Your
Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook.
com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter.
Summer 2016 7
Arrival & Getting Around
tia Airlines first. You may save yourself some money and a
14 hour journey! Ticket office: open 05:30 - 22:30, tel. 060
30 50 70 for information. Changing money: head east for
Gruž harbour, where there are ATMs and exchange offices.
Toilets: inside the terminal, costing 3kn. Left luggage: the
cloakroom (garderoba) works 04:30 - 22:30, 5kn for the first
hour, and 1.50kn per hour thereafter. Public phones are on
the platform. Getting to town: buses to town stop right
outside the station; take line 1A, 1B, or 3. Tickets cost 15kn
from the driver or 12kn if you buy them in a kiosk or in a
ticket office. Taxis wait by the platform.
COACH STATION (AUTOBUSNI KOLODVOR)
QH‑1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II bb, tel. (+385-) 060
30 50 70, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.
libertasdubrovnik.hr. Open 05:30 - 22:30.
ARRIVING BY BOAT
There are two harbours in Dubrovnik: the centuries-old
harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town, and the
commercial port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office and
quay are at Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town.
The port looks onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of
Dubrovnik's hotels are located. Getting to town: hop onto
an orange bus numbered 1A, 1B, 1C or 3. A ticket for a single trip costs 12 kn if you buy it from a news kiosk, 15 kn if
you buy it from the driver. Tickets must be validated using
the machine next to the driver immediately upon boarding.
Arrival & Getting Around
Catamaran (Nona Ana) line from Dubrovnik to Mljet. Tickets can be bought in Gruž Harbour from the G&V Line kiosk at least one hour before departure.QG‑1, Vukovarska
36, tel. (+385-20) 31 31 19, email@example.com, www.
gv-line.hr. 25 - 95kn per person.
Jadrolinja ferries operate to Elafiti islands, Mljet island, between Mljet and Pelješac, and to the Italian port of Bari.
Tickets for local catamarans, international ferries and the
coastal line Rijeka-Split-Hvar-Dubrovnik can be purchased
online. For local catamarans it is possible to book one
month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours
prior to travelling.QI‑2, Obala S. Radića 40, tel. (+385-20)
41 80 00/(+385-20) 41 83 80, firstname.lastname@example.org,
www.jadrolinija.hr. Open Mon, Wed, Fri 08:00 - 22:00, Tue,
Thu, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 09:30, 18:30 - 20:30. July
- August Open Mon, Wed, Fri 06:30 - 22:00, Tue, Thu, Sat
06:30 - 20:00, Sun 06:30 - 12:00, 17:30 - 21:00.
KAPETAN LUKA, KRILO
Krilo catamaran running to Dubrovnik from Split and back,
via Milna, Hvar, Korčula and Mljet. Check the sailing schedule
here. Tickets can be bought at Avansa Travel (Open 09:00 20:00. Sun 09:00 - 16:00.) and Elite Travel (Open 08:00 - 16:00.)
agencies in port at Gruž. During the summer season, tickets
get sold out up to 5 days before the departure.QI‑2, Port
Gruž, email@example.com, www.krilo.hr.
ARRIVING BY CAR
For the time being, there is a motorway to Ploče (exit Karamatići),
100 km away from Dubrovnik. After the exit just follow signs for
Dubrovnik. Just south of Metković you pass through a corridor
belonging to Bosnia and Herzegovina, so keep your passport or
ID card handy. Check “Visa” under City Basics (see p. 11).
Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter BiH from the A3
(E70) heading east from Zagreb, or via one of the roads heading
south from Hungary. Of the possible routes, Bosanska Gradiška
- Banja Luka - Jajce - Mostar is probably quickest, but you may
wish to take a detour through the fair city of Sarajevo. When
you get into Dubrovnik, a one way system leads east and west
of the Old Town - try to have a map handy!
The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray, freedom!).
You’ll be amazed how efficient and clean they are. They connect the coach station and Gruž harbour with the Old Town
and hotels on Lapad, and take you to Cavtat in the south of the
county, and Pelješac in the north. See the company’s website
(sorry, no English) or any number of placards or fliers in the city
for a route map. Tickets for journeys within the city cost 12kn
from news kiosks (15kn from the driver) and must be validated
in the ticket-stamping machines immediately upon boarding.
Out-of-town routes cost a little bit more (the journey to Cavtat
for example costs 25kn each way) and tickets are bought from
8 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
The best way to enjoy
QI‑2, Vukovarska 42, tel. (+385-) 099 407 32 74/(+38520) 35 70 20, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.
Central Dubrovnik can be a nightmare when it comes to
parking, and it's not uncommon to see visitors driving
around in circles for hours in the hope of finding a free
space. Your best bet is to head for the multi-storey car
park at Ilijina Glavica (Zagrebačka ulica, K-2), well-placed
for people entering the city from the west. A bus shuttles
passengers from the car park to the Old Town's Pile Gate,
although with Pile sitting a mere ten minutes downhill on
foot, you might not need it. Parking costs 5 - 40kn per hour
depending on which zone you're in, and the season.
QH‑1, Sv. Križa 3, tel. (+385-20) 31 37 89/(+385-) 098 925
23 93, email@example.com, www.dubrovniktransferi.com. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
TAXI AND TRANSPORTATION SERVICE DUBROVNIK
QI‑2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-) 091 332 20 22, info@
taxidubrovnik.hr, www.dubrovnikairporttaxi.com. Advance notice required if paying by credit card. A
Also at G-2, Babin Kuk, Mali Stradun, tel. 091 603 51 23.
April - October 31 Open 09:00 - 21:00.QI‑2, Obala Stjepana
Radića 25, tel. (+385-20) 41 08 88, firstname.lastname@example.org,
www.gulliver.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
There are multiple taxi companies in Dubrovnik, so there
should be no shortage of transport to get you from A to B.
Rates appear to be uniform throughout the city, with prices
starting at 27kn, and each kilometre costing you 9kn.
TIC DUBROVNIK TOURIST AGENCY
QB‑2, Placa 21, tel. (+385-20) 32 33 50, email@example.com, www.
tic.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. JA
Join the conversation with IYP
QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+385-) 098 69
96 13, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.vivado.hr. Open 09:00
- 20:00. N
Summer 2016 9
Arrival & Getting Around
The Tourist Information Centres enlisted below are the official tourist centres of the City of Dubrovnik. All the information and materials made available are free and you are
more than welcome to visit them.
QH‑1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 79
83, email@example.com, www.tzdubrovnik.hr.
June - September Open 07:00 - 20:00.
QH‑2, Šetalište kralja Tomislava 7, tel. (+385-20) 43 74
60, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.tzdubrovnik.hr.
June - September Open 08:00 - 21:00.
QObala I. Kuljevana 12, tel. (+385-20) 75 90 86, ured.
- August Open 08:00 - 20:00, Tue, Thu 08:00 - 13:00,
18:00 - 20:00.
QC‑2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, ured.pile@
tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. June - September Open 08:00 - 21:00.
QLuka bb, Luka Šipanska, tel. (+385-20) 75 80 84, ured.
email@example.com, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. From
June Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. July
- August Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue.
Also at the Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi 08:00 - 20:00 every
day, tel: (+385-20) 77 15 68, 091 / 425 11 11.QL‑2, Frana
Supila 9, tel. (+385-20) 42 50 00/(+385-) 091 425 00 01,
firstname.lastname@example.org, www.hertz.hr. Open 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun on request. A
Also at Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-) 098 32 09 15,
098 42 21 92, Open 08:00 - 20:00.QL‑2, Frana Supila 3, tel.
(+385-20) 42 37 47/(+385-) 098 32 09 15, email@example.com, www.rent-a-car.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. A
Also at Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 34 80,
firstname.lastname@example.org, Open 08:00 - 20:00.QF/
G‑3, Masarykov put 9, tel. (+385-20) 33 36 64/(+385-)
099 219 55 15, email@example.com, www.uni-rent.
com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A
If you were naughty and parked illegally, a big truck might
come and tow your little broom-broom away! Oh no! If that
happens, don’t be too sad, all is not lost. Visit the depot in
Gospino polje (leads from Pile to Lapad, open 24/7). The
bad news is you’ll be charged anything from 500 - 1000kn
for the trouble, plus a police fine of up to 300 - 700kn. Let’s
face it, it could be worse! The people there speak English
and accept payment by credit card.
QSanitat Dubrovnik, tel. (+385-20) 64 01 40, 64 01
35, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.sanitat.hr
As Croatia entered the EU on July 1, 2013 there are no
longer custom limits between member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you
to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.
Since Croatia had become the member of the European
Union on July 1, 2013, Croatian Visa Policies have since
become fully compliant with European Union Visa Policy
and Standards. So what does that exactly mean? All citizens of states that require visas to enter other EU member countries also need a visa to enter Croatia. Therefore,
before visiting Croatia, be sure to visit the Croatian Embassy in your respective country of origin. In addition, if
you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities
throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for
multiple entries because of the border crossing through
Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without
the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter
WHEN THINGS GO WRONG
Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Dubrovnik significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you
should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time.
In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number (+385-) 112 which
then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department.
Depending on the city district, in case you were involved
in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the
nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy
or consulate. The main building for ER is located in General Hospital in Roka Mišetića bb (H-3) where everything
necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK
road help 24/7 (+385-) 1987, and as for accidents on
the sea call (+385-) 195.
When behind the wheel drivers must always have their
driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.
Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt
and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in
urban areas is 50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h
on secondary roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they
say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.
The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the
United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.
QZaton Veliki 2, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 30, ured.zaton@
tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. June - Spetember Open 08:00 - 20:00.
AVIS - BUDGET
QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-) 091 314 30 19,
email@example.com, www.avis.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 35 88/
(+385-) 098 42 49 03, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.
carrentalsubrosa.com. Open 07:00 - 21:00, email@example.com. A
10 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Igor Brautović
Summer 2016 11
Croatia’s Secret Islands
buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can
expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to
most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you
inquire about your destination in relation to these matters
and the majority will endeavour to organise and make
your arrival as accessible as possible.
There are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as
well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours
a day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but
not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash
on you. If you're planning a trip to one of the islands in
the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the
amount of cash you think you'll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.
Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take
shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is
still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car
parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at
least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new
There are four public toilets in Dubrovnik Old City which
will cost you 5 kn. Two of them are in Pile, one in Ploče,
and one is at the Fishmarket (Peskarija). All are open 07:00
- 23:00, Peskarija 07:00 - 02:00.
Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned
about tipping, but seeing how you're a visitor to the
country and all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian
people typically round their bill up to the nearest whole
number when they want to tip, but leaving 10-15% for
the staff's efforts seems like a classy thing for a visitor to
do, doesn't it?
Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavementcafé culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors,
it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking
establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law
amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed
public spaces including restaurants where it has never
been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular
eateries if you’re prepared to move inside.
New Year’s Day
International Workers’ Day
Anti-Fascist Resistance Day
August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day
Feast of the Assumption
All Saints’ Day
Saint Stephen’s Day
12 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Photo by Ivana Stanešić
Despite the popularity of Croatia’s coast with tourists there
are still plenty of places which have remained sheltered from
the tides of tourists. Here is a selection of island hideaways
where you can find your own personal paradise.
Tiny Susak makes up for it slack of size with personality. The
local dialect is a curious mix of archaic Croatian blended with
vocabulary from Italian, French and German. Not even visitors from other parts of Croatia can decipher it.
In 1912 an Austrian doctor deemed Susak ideal for convalescing children. A hotel was designed by a Viennese
architect and built in the Bok bay, but with the First World
War tourism halted and never really picked up again. Which
means that the island remains utterly unspoilt.
Susak is unusual among Croatian islands in being covered
with sand which is held firmly in place by reeds planted by
farmers to prevent erosion. There are no roads, only sandy
paths – you can pretty much go barefoot! The island is surprisingly fertile and was once well known for its wine, an
industry which is slowly being revived. With no cars and
those shallow sandy bays it’s a paradise for families with
small children. There are no hotels, but you can rent a room
or private apartment. Come summer you’ll find yourself
joined by a host of Americans, returning emigrants and their
offspring. Pensioners returning to live out their days on the
island are lending a curious Transatlantic touch to the architecture. Other visitors include women who come to bury
themselves in the sand at Bok and Spiaza bays, reputed to
Susak island culture includes possibly the only folk costume
to feature a colourful mini ra-ra skirt. Definitely one of the
more intriguing Croatian islands!
With no cars and just one settlement, Silba is enjoyed by escapists whoneed a little culture along with their days of relaxation. Silba features six lovely churches and chapels, and
romantic villas built by wealthy sea captains and ship owners. Since the island was vulnerable to pirate attacks you’ll
find a 16th century castle, while a hexagonal watchtower,
the Toreta, a slender edifice with a spiral staircase tracing
round the outside, testifies to the enduring love of a roving
sailor for his love back home.
Since the hedonistic 1970s Silba has had a loyal base of visitors from Croatia’s alternative cultural scene, so you’ll happen
across cute boutiques and low-key performances. There’s a
gallery of sculpture by Marija Ujević-Galetović, a contemporary artist who does fantastic things with the human form.
Silba’s pristine beaches recall the island’s silvery name with
shimmering shingle beaches and shallow coves ideal for
children. The waters are an unusually vivid turquoise colour
set off by the dark green vegetation.
Prvić is perfectly placed for exploring Šibenik, the Kornati National Park, neighbouring islands such as Zlarin and Kaprije
and the Krka and Plitvice National Parks inland.
Prvić is small and perfectly formed, with two settlements
and no cars. Prvić Luka’s pretty waterfront features a striking
onion-domed church. There are lovely bathing spots with
views over the surrounding islands and the mountains on
Among the children who have been lucky to spend their
summers here was Faust Vrančić, known as the Croatian
Leonardo da Vinci. A linguist, historian, mathematician and
physicist, he was the inventor of the parachute and creator of
the first Croatian dictionary. You can see models of his inventions in the local museum.
Just opposite the port of Split, Šolta is super easy to get to, but
for some unfathomable reason it has been almost completely
overlooked by tourists. All the better for people looking for an
authentic Dalmatian refuge from the passage of time.
Summer 2016 13
Croatia’s Secret Islands
Legend has it that Illyrian Queen Teuta built her palace on the
hillside at Senjska cove on the south side of the island. Roman Emperor Diocletian of Split chose Nečujam to build fish
farms. More recently, oligarchs and millionaires have been
seeking refuge in a 16th century waterside castle at Maslinica
that has been transformed into a breathtakingly beautiful
hotel, the Martinis Marchi, with its own beautiful little marina.
Wine lovers should try Šolta’s local variety Dobričić, thought
to be a forebear of Zinfandel and rated highly by experts.
Don’t neglect to visit the villages in the interior - the narrow
stone streets basking in the sun are full of atmosphere. In
Grohote you’ll find a gallery with a permanent exhibition of
work by famous artists that were born in Šolta.
THE ELAFITI ISLANDS
The Elafiti islands are a short boat trip away from Dubrovnik,
meaning you can easily enjoy the delights of island life and
hop over to the city when you fancy. Each island is a little
treasure. Wealthy Dubrovnik families of times past had their
summer homes here, lending the islands echoes of the Renaissance.
The ferry’s first port of call is a popular spot for day trippers
from Dubrovnik and as such is rather busier than its neighbours. Two hamlets, Gornje Čelo and Donje Čelo each have
sandy beaches. The island is very green, with abundant olives, oranges and figs. Lazing on the beaches in Porat and
Saplun in the evening you have a free ticket to open air concerts in Dubrovnik just over the water!
For a tiny island Lopud has a wealth of churches, monasteries and villas. A lovely spot to linger is Mayneri park right on
the waterfront, somewhat unkempt but boasting fine views,
planting and statuary. Nearby you’ll find the Thyssen-Bornemisza art pavilion where the installation Your Black Horizon
by Olafur Eliasson and David Adjaye is housed. Architecture
buffs might like to explore (with caution) the disused modernist Grand Hotel.
Lopud has one of the best sandy beaches in Croatia at Sunj
bay. A handful of lovely stone villas have been turned into
small hotels with excellent accommodation and good restaurants.
The most distant of the three populated Elafiti Islands, you
can wander Šipan’s shoreline and hardly meet a soul. Šipan
boasts 36 churches and chapels and 42 historic summer
villas. With two settlements this island has a bus service!
Suđurađ is where the ferry arrives, while Šipanska Luka (Port
of Šipan), in a pleasing twist, has no ferry service.
Apart from stumbling over fascinating old buildings, the
pleasures of an island walk include taking in olive and fig,
carob and vine… The island has a scattering of pleasant
smaller hotels and decent restaurants.
14 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
5 GIFTS FOR HUNGRY LOVED
One of the pleasures of Croatia is natural, tasty food. So
what better gift for those back home than something to
1. Ground Wild Fennel
The rocky plains of Dalmatia are covered in the grey stems
and yellow blooms of wild fennel. Mrs Marica Marasović
from the island of Vis sells dried and ground fennel for flavouring soups, salads, stews and dressings. Contact (+385-)
91 588 84 09, firstname.lastname@example.org.
2. The Captain’s Cookies
Unique almond cookies have been made for centuries on
the Peljesac peninsula, baked to see off sea captains on
their voyages. You can pick up a gift-wrapped package at
the Croccantino cake shop at Obala pomoraca 30, Orebić
(Open 07:00 - 24:00), and in local Antunović bakeries. Contact: email@example.com, tel. (+385-) 98 165 07 77
3. Pag and Brač Island Cheese
Pag island is synonymous with good cheese in Croatia, with
two factories supplying great cheese to the whole country.
Look out for the Paška sirarna and Gligora brands.
Brač island cheese is exclusively sold locally. It’s not easy
to get hold of a round of cheese as it’s a natural seasonal
product made in small quantities. But it is well worth the
effort. Try the Kuzmanić family, Put Varoša 18, Supetar, Brač,
firstname.lastname@example.org, tel. (+385-21) 63 04 98, (+385-) 91
594 52 79.
Lumblija is a sweet from Korčula island made from wine
must, olive oil, almonds, dried fruit and spices. It was apparently the recipe of a French soldier who presented a
cake to his island beloved on his departure with the words
“n’oubliez” (“don’t forget!”). This was Croatianised as “lumblija”, and the recipe has lived on ever since. You can order
a cake from Mrs Vlašić, Obala 2, Vela Luka, Korčula, email@example.com, tel. (+385-) 98 182 84 07.
5. Salt Petals
Real foodies these days choose from a selection of salts as
they cook. A new one to try is cvijet soli (fleur de sel) from
Nin’s Roman salt pans. Fleur de sel is made of soft, moist
flakes harvested gently from the water’s surface. Delicious
sprinkled on fine foods, the crystals are rich in minerals and
created in an ecologically pristine environment. Pick up a
box in at the Solane Nin museum shop, Ilirska cesta 7, Nin,
tel. (+385-23) 26 40 21 (Open 07:00 - 20:00) or selected
shops nationwide. www.solananin.hr.
Le Petit Festival du Théatre Archives
The Culture Trip
ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO THE SUMMER EVENTS IN DUBROVNIK
AND SURROUNDINGS WHICH YOU MUSTN’T MISS... FROM
CLASSIC AND TRADITIONAL, TO URBAN AND ACTIVE
Culture & Events
Culture & Events
10.07 SUNDAY - 25.08 THURSDAY
67TH DUBROVNIK SUMMER FESTIVAL
One of the oldest European festivals with over 80 national and
international music, theatre and dance performances shown
over 7 sizzling summer weeks. In its 67th edition, this event has
all the grandeur with renaissance venues such as the Lovrjenac
Fort, Revelin Fort, in front of the St. Blaise's Church, Stradun,
Lazareti and the Rector's Palace that bestow a captivating ambience. 2000 artists will show you how the Old City turns into
a stage.QVarious locations, www.dubrovnik-festival.hr.
15.12. 2015 TUESDAY - 15.12. THURSDAY 2016
Become a sea expert at the Natural History Museum of Dubrovnik where this all-year-round exhibition offers a thorough
insight into what's under the sea in the Adriatic. Totally wild
and totally made for adult and child, lots of visuals, fun and
facts can be found without having to get all too wet!QC‑4,
Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, tel.
(+385-20) 32 48 88, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.pmd.hr.
Midsummer Scene Archives - Photo by Andy Barker
29.01 FRIDAY - 03.10 MONDAY
A love for the sea, a passion for diving and a favourite hobby
in photography has allowed Dalibor Andres to merge all of
the above into this one spectacular exhibition. Andres has
won numerous awards, had publications of photographs in
various magazines, books and international salons, and has
participated in many festivals and competitions at home and
abroad. See the best of the Adriatic through his lens…QC‑4,
Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, tel.
(+385-20) 32 48 88, email@example.com, www.pmd.hr.
03.06 FRIDAY - 27.09 TUESDAY
DUBROVNIK SYMPHONIC ORCHESTRA
Dubrovnik's affiliation with music dates back to the 16th
century. In saying that, the city's iconic symphonic orchestra was established in 1924 and today continues that honourable tradition with an amazing programme consisting
of concerts on Tuesdays and Fridays in June and July,
Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays in August and September at breath-taking venues. Keep an eye out on world renowned classical music artists who will join them on stage.
QD‑3 , K‑3, Rector's Palace ; Fort Lovrijenac, www.dso.hr.
Concerts start at 20:30.
01.05 SUNDAY - 30.10 SUNDAY
The expression every picture tells a story has its merit. This
permanent collection of images presents some of the world's
leading photojournalists that covered the breakup of the former Yugoslavia - from Croatia, through to Bosnia and Kosovo.
Photographs by Ron Haviv, Alexandra Boulat, Darko Bandić,
Jan Grarup, Claus Larson, Yannis Behrakis and Jon Jones are included. Multimedia video included.QC‑2, War Photo Limited,
Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, info@warphotoltd.
01.07 FRIDAY - 06.07 WEDNESDAY
DUBROVNIK INTERNATIONAL OPERA FESTIVAL
HOMMAGE 'TINO PATTIERA'
If opera moves you, fulfils you, inspires you, then the beginning of July will grace you. As always, the festival brings
back to life some of the best arias ever written and will
be performed by some of the finest and most respected
opera artists of our day. All this in memory of the world
famous Croatian tenor, Tino Pattiera!QD‑3, Atrium of
the Rector's Palace, Pred Dvorom 1, www.dubrovnikopera-festival.com.
01.05 SUNDAY - 30.07 SATURDAY
THE BALKAN ROUTE BY GIULIO PISCITELLI
As current as ever ‘www.warphotoltd.com' release photos
from all around the world which mark the trials and tribulations of people. This photo exhibition is dedicated to the refugees and migrants from Syria and its neighbouring countries from their arrival on the Greek Islands of Lesbos and
Kos, to their way along the Balkan Route, fleeing the terror
of war and hardships in their own countries with the dream
of a better and safer life in Europe.QC‑2, War Photo Limited,
Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, info@warphotoltd.
16 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
06.05 FRIDAY - 07.07 THURSDAY
SAINT BLAISE IN ITALY: PLACES OF WORSHIP,
CULT AND CELEBRATION
What St. Peter is to the Vatican is what St. Blaise is to Dubrovnik, literally everything. And on the occasion of the
1700th anniversary of his martyrdom, this exhibition is
based on several themes, folk rituals and customary practices in 45 different Italian cities. Features include liturgical
aspects of worship, statues, relics, rituals, feasts, and festive
food and ceremonies, thus exemplifying his international
following!QB‑3, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Od Rupa
JUNE - JULY
Gold, silver or bronze! Medals mark effort, respect, and recognition, and this exhibition by the Cultural History Museum of Dubrovnik Museums presents 210 medals related to
the city, its people and events, and is part of their precious
medal collection as well as from private collections.QD‑3,
Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 3, www.dumus.hr. J
06.06 MONDAY - 24.07 SUNDAY
RETROSPECTIVE EXHIBITION: MILA
KUMBATOVIĆ (1915 – 2004)
Art historian, Ivanka Reberski is a guru when it comes to
the works of Mila Kumbatović and has therefore put together her oeuvre spanning fifty years of diverse creativity.
According to the author, Kumbatović's career was marked
by various changes particularly in moving away from direct experiential native landscape to the rocky surface and
microstructure of stone on the island of Krk, all the way
through to the cosmic galaxy.QL‑5, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90, info@
13.06 MONDAY - 03.07 SUNDAY
PHOTO_GRAZ SELECTION 014
Exhibition Selection 014 by the Associations Kulturvermittlung Steiermark and the Cultural City Network Graz
presents a selection of 27 photographic works that clearly
demonstrate a huge variety of photographic scenes. The
exhibition compares working modes by different age
groups and reflects their current topics and personal approaches.QL‑2, Lazareti, Frana Supila bb, www.lazareti.
23.06 THURSDAY - 07.08 SUNDAY
United though parted, Vlado Martek pays homage to one of
Croatia’s stalwarts in art, Boris Demur, both of whom along
with four other friends came to light in the 70s mostly due
to public performances that were interactive and unconventional at the time. The fundamental feature of Martek’s
work in this case is the connection of language and fine arts
in drawings, photographs, objects, images, actions, performances and installations.QD‑3, The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika
Gallery, Poljana Marina Držića 1, www.ugdubrovnik.hr.
JULY - SEPTEMBER
IZNIK - OTTOMAN CERAMICS FROM THE
DEPTHS OF THE ADRIATIC
Historians/archaeologists take note, here’s an exhibition that
presents valuable archaeological material from a merchant
ship that was sunk at the end of the 16th century near St.
Paul, along the island of Mljet. The exhibition is organised
in cooperation with the Croatian Conservation Institute, the
Mimara Museum and the Institute of Yunus Emre. It’s not Titanic, but it’s epic!QB‑3, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Od
Rupa 3, www.dumus.hr. J
JULY - OCTOBER
RECTOR’S PALACE IN DUBROVNIK
A true insight into one of the cities grand buildings, if not the
most important public building in Dubrovnik that held the
seat of political power of the Dubrovnik Republic, on the occasion of the 580th anniversary of the start of its construction.
A set of museum souvenirs inspired by the Rector’s Palace will
also be made available.QD‑3, Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom
3, www.dumus.hr. J
13.07 WEDNESDAY - 22.07 FRIDAY
SCIENCE UNDERGROUND ACADEMY
Bored? Love Science? Then welcome to the International Summer School of postmodern New Media Arts and Sciences.
Gain knowledge and skills in practicing scientific and artistic
techniques. Creative and innovative, in both Croatian and English, a team of 13 international speakers and experts in different
fields of Arts and Sciences focus on (physics, biotechnology,
electronics, biology and ecology, new media visual, digital,
performative, biological and intermedia art).QC‑4, Dubrovnik
Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, www.pmd.hr.
28.07 THURSDAY - 02.10 SUNDAY
Brush to paint, paint to canvas, and canvas to audience!
Paintings with one source of enlightenment, ‘Dubrovnik',
a city filled with spectacular architecture and natural motives; a city that is a fountain of inspiration, bringing together a constellation of artists from all over the world.
This large scale exhibit brings together a plethora of paintings from many artists with their inner views and inspirations of the Adriatic's Jewel.QL‑5, Dubrovnik Art Gallery,
Put Frana Supila 23, www.ugdubrovnik.hr.
THE LINĐO FOLK ENSEMBLE
The Linđo folk ensemble, one of Croatia’s finest cultural exports, is ready to dance its socks off for you every Tuesday
and Friday during the tourist season, when high-spirited energetic performances with amazing costumes and haunting songs will echo through Sloboda Cinema, up until July
10, and Lazareti after August 25, starting at 21:30. The Dubrovnik Summer Festival (July 10 - August 25) is an exception, when their performances are as per the festival’s schedule.QSloboda Cinema, Luža bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 23/
(+385-) 091 571 79 63, www.lindjo.hr. Tickets 100kn.
Summer 2016 17
Culture & Events
Not only is the Revelin Fortress a landmark of Dubrovnik, it is now home to some intriguing exhibitions.
The ground floor caters to two archaeological exhibits
whilst the first floor is a high-tech centrepiece with a
virtual museum. The exhibit Early Medieval Sculpture of Dubrovnik and Environs is linked to the material stone, for stone is what gives this Medieval City
its charm. Even furniture in churches was made from
stone and this exhibit presents stone altars, fences,
pulpits, windows and imposts in a pre-Romanic and
early Romanic style. These artefacts have been gathered from the Benedictine order in Dubrovnik and it’s
surroundings; they date from the 8th and 12th century.
The second exhibit Archaeological research, Spatial Development and Foundry presents how the
very building you are standing in, was built. Visuals
depict its 15th and 16th century construction as well
as findings such as ovens for casting cannons and
bells, and the houses of different stone masons and
foundry men. Any public-construction in the city at
the time was put on halt to accelerate the building of
the fortress due to potential Venetian danger. Ascend
one floor and enter the new age, a Virtual Museum
with seven huge touch screens allowing visitors to
see archived documents, walk through summer residences and parks, set eyes on the Cathedral, flip old
coins of the Dubrovnik Republic, visit Ston and the ancient fortresses and holiday villas in the region. Some
of these are mostly inaccessible to the public and are
an extremely important part of Dubrovnik’s heritage.
QE-1, dumus.hr/en/. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
Wed. Unified ticket.
AUGUST - SEPTEMBER
STEFAN BRACO BRAVAČIĆ
Architect and urban planner, much of what you see in
and around Dubrovnik has been influenced by Bravačić.
This exhibit presents his diversification in a body of work
that includes architecture and painting, graphics, ships,
yacht-design and more. Even the city buses have his
touch!QD‑3, The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery, Poljana
Marina Držića 1, www.ugdubrovnik.hr.
01.08 MONDAY - 30.10 SUNDAY
THE ROAD TO THE CALIPHATE BY EDDY VAN
Be taken on an emotional journey down the road of invasions and occupations, where hearts and minds are
replaced by disgust and retaliation. Van Wessel witnesses
the rise of warlords, bribery and power struggles, and extremism as people are used and abused without a sense for
human value. Through his photographs, van Wessel sheds
light on a darkened road.QC‑2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, www.warphotoltd.com. J
18 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Culture & Events
09.06 THURSDAY - 12.06 SUNDAY
LE PETIT FESTIVAL DU THEATRE
Beauty motivates, nature heals, love saves! The splendour of this small festival lies in the exquisiteness of very
unique art forms which are nurtured at this cultural event;
whether through poetry, acting or dancing, Le Petit Festival du Theatre will never leave you uninspired nor does
it disappoint.QL‑2, Lazareti, Frana Supila bb, www.
ANA U GRADU FESTIVAL
Ana Rucner is a vivacious top class cellist recognisable for
her neo-modern style of playing thus bringing the classical music genre closer to a younger audience. All this
is accompanied by her attractive stage performance and
with two concerts scheduled, this is a chance to enjoy
both chamber and contemporary classical music by Ana
and her guests.Qwww.anarucner.com.
21.06 TUESDAY - 07.07 THURSDAY
The English production of one Shakespeare's most beloved comedies, ‘Twelfth Night' will be directed by Helen
Tennison and performed in English at one of Dubrovnik's
most beautiful and most famous venues, the Lovrijenac
Fortress. A culmination of love, mistaken identity and
magic are just some of the elements of this classic play.
QK‑3, Lovrijenac Fortress, www.midsummer-scene.
25.06 SATURDAY - 10.09 SATURDAY
Fancy an all-nighter with majestic views of Dubrovnik!
Tis true, set right on the Komarda Beach, this sublime
location will have raving music programmes from event
crews such as Black Bitch and Sticky Fingers amongst
others each and every Saturday night. Electronic music is
by far the hypnotic highlight with genres such as house,
funk, techno and more to party too. Music played by resident DJs as well as international DJs will send ripples to
the flowing waves at sea.QL‑2, Lazareti, Frana Supila bb,
10.07 SUNDAY - 01.09 THURSDAY
STARS BENEATH THE STARS
In its 12 year running, the Adriatic Luxury Hotels group
organise an intriguing music summer programme where
the most attractive areas surrounding 5 star hotels
(beaches, terraces, pools) turn into splendid open settings where concerts take place under the night-time sky.
The combination of international music from (jazz, rock,
pop, Cuban,) to prestigious Croatian musical artists makes
this event sparkle.QGardens of Grand Villa Argentina;
The Palm Terrace, Hotel Excelsior; Vala Beach Club, Hotel Dubrovnik Palace; www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com.
THE GARDEN OF MUSIC
Transcend to the Renaissance Period of Dubrovnik, be
amongst the aristocrats for a little while. You see, the park
of the summer villa Bunić-Kaboga will be the stage for a
selection of works by Croatian composers from past to
present day with a focus on Dubrovnik composers. With
attention paid to detail, this is a night of grandeur!QBunić
- Kaboga Summer House, www.sveostalojeglazba.com.
21.07 THURSDAY - 23.07 SATURDAY
DJ MAG FESTIVAL
Crowd pleasing sets will have the audience going frantic
with the most prestigious international zine for electronic
music, ‘DJ Mag’ backing this festival. It opens with Ferreck
Dawn, nominated as one of the best deep house DJs in
the world. Night two sends a welcome return back to Club
Revelin with DJ Kryder grooving the tunes whilst the final
night is left to the Italian dyno duo in DJs from Mars, who
twist pop songs into electro dance wonders.QE‑1, Culture Club Revelin, Sv. Dominika bb, www.clubrevelin.
Making a comeback appearance to our 16th century fortress and majestic club is DJ R3HAB, who we must say almost had some punters unconscious with his parade of remixes from commercial artists as well as original hit singles
when performing here last. This Dutch DJ pumps electro
to progressive house sounds, unravelling his prowess time
and time again.QE‑1, Culture Club Revelin, Sv. Dominika
11.08 THURSDAY - 13.08 SATURDAY
REVELIN DUBROVNIK FESTIVAL
Electro grooves will once again pelt out from Culture
Club Revelin and Fedde le Grand returns for the opening
night of the event, after last year's astounding edition.
Top world DJs mix and remix all night long in the majestic five hundred years old Revelin Fortress where some of
the scenes of the hugely popular 'Game of Thrones' series
were filmed. These DJs, who we have dubbed as knights
of the modern era include DJ Alexis Adair, Joe Stone and
others.QE‑1, Culture Club Revelin, Sv. Dominika bb,
PAUL VAN DYK
Ready to dance the night away! Then prepare to be
amazed by the dance and trance sounds of one of the
world's first superstar DJs and Grammy Award winners.
This German giant of jam, Paul Van Dyk will use the
medieval fortress walls as a contrast of modern light
and splash-back sound that will bring the house down.
QE‑1, Culture Club Revelin, Sv. Dominika bb, www.
Mila Kumbatović “Vrsidba na Krku” - Dubrovnik Art Gallery Archives
BOŽIDAR GJUKIĆ - WAR
‘A photo can speak a thousand words’ and a selection
of city museums have come together to present eighty
thought-provoking, vivid photos depicting Dubrovnik
and its surroundings during the Homeland War, in
1991/1992. Twenty years on, the role and importance
of war photography testifies to the truth.QD-3, Rector’s Palace, Pred dvorom 1, dumus.hr.
DUBROVNIK IN THE
HOMELAND WAR 1991-1995
Over 500 artefacts are exhibited at the Fort Imperial building on Srđ Hill, considered a symbol in the
defence of Dubrovnik. It includes photographs, published material, weapons, explosives, war maps and
commands, authentic video footage, war memorabilia, flags, diaries and more. The Srđ Hill is also home
to a memorial with the names of all the defenders who
had lost their lives defending Dubrovnik at that very
spot.QImperial Fort, Srđ, dumus.hr. Open 08:00 22:00. Admission 15-30kn.
Summer 2016 19
Culture & Events
Culture & Events
CELEBRATION OF THE ‘HALF NEW YEAR’S EVE’
It isn’t exactly New Year’s Eve but we’re half way there. You
bet, this traditional event has been held since 2001 and is
celebrated with a masquerade carnival parade through
the streets of the city of Korčula. It attracts a large number of guests with an entertaining programme that keeps
visitors going well after midnight. May the countdown
01.07 FRIDAY - 31.08 WEDNESDAY
SUMMER ON THE ELAPHITE ISLANDS
Enchanting Mediterranean melodies and traditional folklore festivities have been cherished for centuries on the
Elaphite Islands near Dubrovnik, and this musical and cultural event has for a number of years been entertaining the
visitors. Folklore dancing, Dalmatian klape and classical
concerts are just some of the things held on the islands of
Koločep, Lopud, Šipan and in Zaton and Orašac.QKoločep,
Lopud, Šipan, Zaton, Orašac, www.tzdubrovnik.hr.
Dubrovnik Summer Festival Archives
10.07 SUNDAY - 08.08 MONDAY
WILD LEAGUE – WATER POLO CHAMPIONSHIPS
Low and behold, welcome to the largest amateur water
polo competition in the world. Few argue that this city
is the world capital of water polo, and over 40 teams will
jump into the sea at the beginning of July ready to battle
it out for the title.Qwww.divljaliga.hr.
02.06 THURSDAY - 29.09 THURSDAY
MOREŠKA SWORD DANCE
A touch of chivalry returns annually to the island of Korčula
with its most famous attraction, the traditional 16th century sword battle dance (Moreška) which depicts the battle between the Moors and Christians. The Moreška was
common across Mediterranean countries long ago and
Korčula still proudly holds on to this 400 year old dance
that is both mesmerising and seeks the skilful handling of
14.06 TUESDAY - 28.06 TUESDAY
KONAVLE ART, ‘WORD & MUSIC FESTIVAL’
With its modest beginnings in 2007 which only included
classical music concerts, the repertoire these days includes
performances in other musical genres as well as theatre
shows, film screenings, art pop music and exhibitions.
Each year the increasing number of visitors and positive
feedback testify to the large success of this only such festival
in the Konavle area!QVarious locations, www.visit.cavtatkonavle.com.
20 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
SWORD DANCE FESTIVAL
On guard! As this event presents and preserves a rich heritage of sword dancing on the island of Korčula. Set in original
ambience, several of Korčula’s sword dance societies called
‘Kumpanjija’ perform a type of chain dance with swords
dating back as early as the 12th century. Come and see this
amazing battle dance that carries the universal message of
good overcoming bad.QKorčula, www.visitkorcula.eu.
ST. JOHN’S REGATTA
On the name day of St. John, a regatta is held in his honour in Vela Luka which has a long history of rowing. It was
first held in the second half of the 19th century and was revived as a tourist attraction in 1995. The five man crews row
3600 meters to the waterfront attracting a large number of
competitors and visitors. The after party runs through the
night!QVela Luka, island of Korčula, www.visitkorcula.
25.06 SATURDAY - 27.08 SATURDAY
DUBROVNIK WEST COAST SUMMER FESTIVAL
You can reserve every weekend and certain weekdays as definite for concerts of classical music, folk ensembles, dance performances, exhibitions and fairs,
plus fish nights, photo exhibits, klape vocal acts and
most certainly a summer theatre on the waterfront. Best
of all, events are free for all!QSlano, www.visit-slano.
14.07 THURSDAY - 17.07 SUNDAY
MARCO POLO FEST
Step back in time and celebrate at this festival of song and
wine, it was established in honour of Marco Polo who was
born on the island. The 4 day event begins with a ‘wine
fiesta’, the second evening is dedicated to ‘pop melodies’
whilst the finale is fittingly titled ‘melodies of Marco Polo’.
Wine from all over the world is sampled so dig in for some
fine wine tasting and fun.QSummer Cinema Korčula,
Korčula island, www.marcopolofest.hr.
JUMPING INTO THE NERETVA
A ‘Jumping Competition’ that attracts a large number of
viewers is held next to the Lučki Bridge in Metković. Obstacles the contestants must compete include, swimming
with a rubber ring, rowing in a large tractor tire, climbing
up a rope to reach a piece of pršut, and jumping from small
and large diving boards. Competitors include children, the
young and the old. Special attention is paid to the ‘craziest
jump’ category.QMetković, www.tzmetkovic.hr.
26.07 TUESDAY - 28.07 THURSDAY & 10.08 WEDNESDAY - 12.08 FRIDAY
MEDITERRANEAN FILM FESTIVAL
Bringing cinema back to the smaller communities of Dalmatia is what this festival is all about. The programme takes
place twice during the summer months in the old House
of Culture in Goveđari and it really is a unique experience.
Snap, camera, action…QGoveđari, Island of Mljet, www.
In the village of Vid, near Metković, is the ancient remains
of the Roman city of Narona. For one night only, Romans
will rampage once again with the staging of market slaves
and gladiator fights, see ancient crafts such as coinage,
pottery made on a potter’s wheel, wooden toys, or even
visit a Roman cosmetician or hair stylist. Exotic dancers, fire
jugglers and delicious Roman cuisine make the night all
the more special.QMetković, www.tzmetkovic.hr.
ST. THEODORE’S DAY
Nothing can hinder the beauty of this grand old tradition which highlights the influence of Christianity on the
island. Three religious orders still thrive there so a holy procession is held with particular candles that are carried and
named according to weight ‘Zero, Primo and others’. The
highlight is the ‘Moreška’, a double sword dance dating
from the 17th century which depicts a spectacular battle.
See the sparks fly as swords clash, a symbol of the island’s freedom struggle.QKorčula, Main Square, www.
04.08 THURSDAY - 14.08 SUNDAY
SUMMER FILM SCHOOL ŠIPAN
Along with the island’s film festival, workshops are held
for kids under the mentorship of distinguished film professionals. Kids from the island as well as visitors produce
their own films each summer and screen them in the open
theatre under the stars. We just might find the next Spielberg here!QŠipan port, island Šipan, www.sipan-film.com/.
11.08 THURSDAY - 13.08 SATURDAY
DAYS OF THE NERETVA PRINCIPALITY
The Neretva area is a valley with a lengthy river and
marshes, it has a long tradition of agriculture as it was ‘the’
major source of life. For three days the entire area rises to
the occasion of recalling the ways of their ‘dide and babe’,
or ‘grandmas and grandpas’. It prepares locals for the biggest event of the year in the ‘Boat Marathon’ and there is a
fair of traditional crafts, rural games, homemade produce,
costumed plays and more…Qwww.tzmetkovic.hr.
NIGHT OF FOLKLORE
The wonderful old town of Ston is best known for its
saltworks and especially its famous seven kilometre long
walls made of stone. It is also the host to a traditional night
of folklore dances and songs from all Croatian regions.
QMain Square, Ston, www.ston.hr.
THE NERETVA BOAT (LAĐA) MARATHON
Be among the 50 000 viewers that attend this spectacle
which promotes the protection of the lađa Neretva boat,
an authentic, traditional vessel which for centuries was a
means of transport. Each year, an amateur rowing competition is held from Metković to Ploče, 22.5km along the
Neretva river. Both towns are amassed with people and
there are parades, concerts, and plenty of cheer.Qwww.
Summer 2016 21
The name Marco Polo is synonymous with travel and adventure. While he is undoubtedly one of the greatest characters
from history, some details of his life remain a mystery. For example, it is acknowledged that the great adventurer was born
in the year 1254 but it is not known exactly where. Written evidence show that the Polo family lived on the island of Korčula
in the 15th century, and Venetian historical records from the
same time confirm that the Polo family name has its roots in
Dalmatia. Confusion on the exact place of his birth is somewhat understandable since the Republic of Venice at the time
encompassed much of the land which now occupies modern
Dalmatia, including the island of Korčula. So, with Venice as
the most powerful economic force from the 12th to the 18th
century, it was not uncommon for many families from Dalmatia to move to and settle in the town of Venice — as did the
Polo family after Marco’s birth.
Marco Polo’s chronicles to the Far East began in 1271 when he
took up the mercantile family business with his father Nicola
and his uncle Mateo. Although Marco’s father and uncle had
made the journey before, they reached the summer residence of their patron Kublai Khan in Shangdu four years later
in 1275. Marco became an envoy and special advisor in the
service of the great Mongolian ruler for 17 years. His extensive
travels throughout Asia enabled him get a picture of the different cultures, traditions, and even the geographical layout
of the majority of the Asian continent. Marco’s time in Asia
came to an end, and his long way back home began, when
he agreed to travel to the western reaches of the Mongolian
empire in order to accompany a Mongolian princess to Persia.
Marco Polo’s mark on history came out of the ashes of one
of the largest and bloodiest naval battles the world had ever
seen. On September 7th, 1298 the Republics of Genoa and
Venice - two of the middle ages’ bitterest rivals - waged war
on the Adriatic sea between the Pelješac peninsula and the
northeastern edge of the island of Korčula. Although the
battle took place in the heart of Venice’s Dalmatian territory,
Genoa and their enormous flotilla emerged victorious. With
Marko Polo having been a Venetian - and therefore on losing side - the wounded Marko Polo was captured and taken
prisoner along with hundreds of others. After three days of
captivity in a tower on the island (which is still around today)
Marco was taken to Genoa where he spent nearly a year languishing behind bars. As luck would have it, Polo shared his
Marco Polo Museum Archives
22 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
cell with a romantic writer named Rustichello da Pisa. After
months of dictating the details of his adventures to Rustichello, “The Book of the Marvels of the World”, also known by
its Italian title “Il Milione”, was completed. Even during Polo’s
lifetime the book was an enormous hit and his descriptions of
the animals, customs and geography of the Far East became
basis for all subsequent works on the subject for centuries to
come. He is credited today with introducing Europe to the
concept of paper money, the number ‘million’, the use of coal
as fuel, and perhaps even eyeglasses. Marco Polo’s indelible
mark on history continues to be felt today, as his book is the
third most read in the history of mankind - behind only the
Bible and the Quran.
The Travels of Marco Polo was a source of inspiration for the
other great naval powers of the time, including Spain and
Portugal. Many countless adventurers struck out into the unknown for a chance to glimpse what Polo had described in his
book; the most famous of which was Christopher Columbus.
During Columbus’ attempt to forge a direct route to the trading ports of the Far East - by actually travelling west - he encountered the Americas, and the world was changed forever.
It is also know that Columbus kept a well-worn copy of Polo’s
book with him on his repeated journeys to the Americas and
used it as a reference point to help him describe the fantastic
scenes he taking in.
By all accounts and purposes, Marco Polo returned to Venice
in 1295 as a very wealthy man, after his more than two decades in Asia. Following his release from prison in Genoa and
the publication of his book, by 1300 Polo was working again
with his father and uncle as a successful merchant. His marriage to Donata Badoer, a Venetian noblewoman, bore him
three daughters: Fantina, Bellela and Moretta. Polo fell ill 1323
and remained bedridden until his death on January 8th of the
following year. His last will and testament was executed by his
family, as his large sums of wealth and property were distributed. A portion went to the San Lorenzo convent in the city
of Venice where his remains are kept today. It is also said that
Polo set free the Tatar slave who accompanied him during his
travels in Asia.
We asked locals - who live or work in
Dubrovnik - to give us a few tips on how to
enrich your stay in this city and make it that
bit more interesting.
Owner of Hotel Stari Grad and Restaurant Above 5
DIYP: Where is your favorite place to drink coffee or
go out at night?
Anna: Glam Caffe, La Bodega.
DIYP: Where is your favorite place to relax in Dubrovnik?
Anna: Lokrum Island, Above 5 Restaurant.
DIYP: What is the best way to discover the city?
Which activities do you recommend?
Anna: Walking the narrow streets of the Old Town and
kayaking around the Walls and Lokrum.
DIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What
do you recommend as a souvenir from Dubrovnik?
Anna: Modni Kantun, unique pieces of clothing and jewelry made exclusively by Croatian designers, and Nebo,
clothing produced in Croatia. As a souvenir, I would recommend a tie, although it is not typical for this region, but
it is typical in Croatia. And, of course, embroidery from the
Konavle region, which can be found by Mrs. Kate, on the
steps of the Dominican Monastery.
DIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a "must-try" for visitors?
Anna: Popara and Buzara.
Head Chef at Restaurant Stara Loza
Damir Šarić and his team from the restaurant ‘Stara Loza’
here for at least seven days and get a feeling for the routine. Only then can you uncover the charm and beauty of
the city and its traditions. I'm not a fan of sightseeing, so I
do not recommend it .
DIYP: Where is your favorite place to drink coffee or
go out at night?
Damir: My favorite place for an afternoon coffee is Buzz
Bar on Prijeko street in the core of the Old Town. This is a
very positive place and a place where during the summer
locals and foreigns mingle.
DIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What
do you recommend as a souvenir from Dubrovnik?
Damir: When departing, it is necessarily to take a trip to
a store carrying Aroma Ragusea products. Try packaged
homemade desserts, or if you really want to treat yourself,
then you can buy handmade jewelry from the Konavle
A sailing clipper, christened “Marco Polo”, built in Saint John,
Canada in 1851 became the fastest ship in the world by sailing
around the globe in less than six months.
DIYP: Where is your favorite place to relax in Dubrovnik?
Damir: To relax, you should walk around the Old City
Walls, or my personal favourite, is a walk at Orsula Park,
located outside of town, where you can enjoy nature and
the beautiful view.
DIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a "must-try" for visitors?
Damir: After all this, when you are hungry, treat yourself
to a traditional shellfish stew in the restaurant Stara Loza
in Dubrovnik and taste real domestic malvasia from the
Konavle winemaker, Petar Crvik. Enjoy!
Be sure to visit the island of Korčula this summer and experience the life and times of Marco Polo first-hand during the
Marco Polo Fest, held from the 14th to the 17th of July.
DIYP: What is the best way to discover the city?
Which activities do you recommend?
Damir: In order to know the city better, you need to be
The number million is said to have been taken from Marco
Polo’s middle name ‘Emilio’. While his impact on the world
of his day and modern times is undeniable, several contemporaries and historians argue that the accounts in his book
were grossly exaggerated. So in order to keep pace with the
incredible descriptions in his book, normal numbers were inadequate, therefore 1, 000, 000 came into use.
Summer 2016 23
Close to the city market in Gruž harbour you'll find this lovely
old summer residence which has been turned into a bistro
where you can enjoy good cooking at sensible prices. Glorijet has earned a reputation among the locals as a good
lunch spot.QH‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 16, tel. (+385-20)
41 97 88/(+385-) 098 28 51 80, firstname.lastname@example.org. Open
08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 170kn). PTA6U
Thai Table Restaurant Archives
Located right on Stradun, overlooking the St. Blaise
Church, this is a great place to grab some early morning breakfast, as they offer various omelettes, as well
as jam and toast. They also serve a light lunch and
dinner, along with homemade cakes and ice cream for
dessert, which you can enjoy as you look out at the
ancient city and watch the buzz of people around you.
QC‑2, Placa 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 29. Open 08:00 24:00. (60-150kn). PAGBXW
A perfect spot for breakfast on a warm day: this place
has just three tables inside but a wonderful terrace
right on Stradun. Apart from home-baked rolls and
croissants, you can treat yourself to dalmatian cured
ham, scrambled eggs, fresh juice, tea and coffee. A bit
on the pricey side due to the prime location.QC,D‑2,
Placa bb, email@example.com, www.esculap-teo.
hr. Open 07:30 - 01:00. (60 - 120kn). JABW
Charming patisserie in the stunning Old city which
could suit almost any European town, city, or village.
Their slogan states that ‘life without breakfast, is like a
day without morning’. So before you get ready to ‘head
out’ on your daily adventure, omelettes, toasts, as well
as cakes can only do you good!QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5,
tel. (+385-) 099 216 54 54, martina@pupodubrovnik.
com, www.pupodubrovnik.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00.
24 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
DUBRAVKA 1836 RESTAURANT & CAFÉ
Located on Pile, this restaurant overlooks Lovrijenac Fortress
and the Old City Walls. They offer delicious Mediterranean
dishes in a romantic and peaceful setting. Their vast menu
includes enough choices to suit everyone's taste, such as
a variety of pizzas, risottos and pastas, fish dishes, such as
Grilled Squid or Salmon Fillet and meat dishes, such as Dalmatia Style Steak or Lamb Fillet. As an additional bonus, if
you're a Game of Thrones fan, this restaurant overlooks one
of the scenes from the show.QA‑2, Brsalje 1, tel. (+385-20)
42 63 19, fax (+385-20) 31 19 58, sales@nautikarestaurant.
com, www.dubravka1836.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (50 160kn). PAUGBW
Located in Lapad, off of the typical tourist track, this simple
and laid-back restaurant serves all your basic meals. Not only
a restaurant but a cafe as well, stop by for a drink or grab a
bite to eat. They offer something for everyone from pizza
and ćevapčići to carbonara spaghetti and omelets. This
simple, but delicious food will hit the spot and best of all, for
a reasonable price.QH‑2, Iva Vojnovića 72, tel. (+385-20)
43 62 20, firstname.lastname@example.org. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun
08:00 - 01:00. (30 - 90kn). PTA6GBXSW
The “fireplace”, adorned with ironwork and ancient weaponry, has as its centrepiece a real hearth where your meal is
cooked before your very eyes - try meat or fish “ispod peke”.
A good choice in the Babin kuk area.QG‑2, Iva Dulčića 136,
tel. (+385-20) 43 56 36, email@example.com,
www.restaurant-komin.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (80 130kn). PTA6LGBXW
Situated at the top of a long flight of steps, next to the Jesuit
Church, this restaurant features food from all across Croatia,
and when we say all over, we mean all over; every notable
region is represented on the menu. As their name suggests
their specialty is the kopun, or capon to you and me, and
they also have local beer on tap. Service is delivered with
smiles in abundance, and this is a great spot for a romantic meal, far from any loud pubs or cafes.QC‑4, Poljana
Ruđera Boškovića 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 69/(+385-) 099
212 98 80, 098 42 73 82, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.
restaurantkopun.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. June - August
Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 220kn). PTJAGBXW
In a courtyard across from the Hilton Imperial Hotel, 100
meters from the Pile Gate, Mimoza is big enough to handle
your tour group and several others simultaneously, seemingly without a blink. There's a dining room, but the terrace, shaded partly with a grape arbour, is a pleasant place
to dine on meats and fish, pizzas and pasta and vegetarian
dishes. Delivery is available.QJ‑3, Branitelja Dubrovnika
9, tel. (+385-20) 41 11 57, email@example.com,
www.esculap-teo.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - 120kn).
Located behind St. Blaise Church, this restaurant offers a
shady spot to rest during a hot summer day. They offer
some special dishes not found in other restaurants, such
as Creamy Barley with Adriatic Shrimp, Octopus Ragout
and Beef Cheeks. For dessert, St. Blaise Soil is a must-try. As
an additional plus, they offer free wi-fi so you can catch up
with your family and friends as you enjoy a delicious meal
in this ancient setting.QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 1, tel. (+38520) 32 39 77, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.tavulin.com.
Open 09:00 - 01:00. (100 - 170kn). PJGBXW
Definitely check out the tiny harbour at Pile - it's like something out of a pirate movie set in an intimate huddle of
houses beaneath sheer cliffs. Orhan's terrace is, therefore,
a great spot. Decent quality, classic Croatian cooking at
reasonable prices.QK‑3, Od Tabakarije 1, tel. (+385-20)
41 41 83, email@example.com, www.restaurantorhan.com. Open 11:00 - 23:30. (50 - 200kn). PTJ
Join the conversation with IYP
Authentic Indian cuisine has finally made its way to Dubrovnik!
Located on a narrow side street off of Stradun, this restaurant
offers a cozy atmosphere between the cool stone walls. The
orange coloured walls, decorated with pictures of India, create a traditional Indian feel. They offer dishes from all over the
Indian subcontinent and use only the freshest ingredients.
Enjoy some chicken tandoori and prawn masala with a side of
saffron rice or garlic naan. To drink, try some traditional Indian
masala tea or sweet lassi. Reservations are recommended
ahead of time as seats fill up quickly.QC‑2, Vetranićeva 6, tel.
(+385-20) 31 27 43, firstname.lastname@example.org,
www.incredibleindiadubrovnik.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00.
(75 - 150kn). PTJABSW
Summer 2016 25
A popular spot for the locals to frequent, you must try this
delectable restaurant during your visit. They offer delicious appetizers like spring rolls, quiches or steak tartare.
As well, delightful risottos and homemade pasta dishes
are just a few of the choices for a main course. As an additional bonus, they're always adding new and fun meals
to the menu. Tastefully decorated, the friendly staff and
warm environment will leave you with a satisfied experience. The tables fill up quickly, so make sure you reserve a
spot ahead of time.QH‑2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+38520) 33 34 86, email@example.com, www.pantarul.
com. From May Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 24:00.
Closed Mon. (60 - 130kn). PTALGSW
PORAT BAR & GRILL
Located in the Gruž Harbour, this classy and modern restaurant has a variety of delicious dishes to choose from on
their menu. They offer various soups and salads, gourmet
burgers, grilled steaks, as well as fresh “Catch of the Day”
fish, all artfully presented. It's the perfect spot for an evening out with your friends and family.QH‑1, Obala Stjepana Radića 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 52, damrag1@gmail.
com, www.porat-dubrovnik.com. Open 07:30 – 24:00.
(25 - 500kn). PTA6UGBXSW
If this review were to merely say ‘WOW!' then it would be
doing this restaurant a great injustice. 360° is designed for
couples, not for larger groups, so it maintains a wonderful
air of serenity even when full. From the main room which
is set deep into the City walls, to the outdoor terraces
which look out over the harbour. Their wine cellar alone
is worth in excess of 1 million Euros, and that alone should
be all you need to know about 360°.QE‑2, Sv.Dominika
bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 22, firstname.lastname@example.org,
www.360dubrovnik.com. Open 18:30 - 23:00. Closed
Mon. (190 - 350kn). PTJA6GBXW
This charming little taverna has an atmosphere reminiscent of a French bistro. It's attracting more and more
admirers thanks to its attractive décor, great terrace and
excellent food. We especially recommend the onion soup,
pepper and tuna steaks and chocolate soufflé. But whatever you choose, you can't go wrong.QI‑2, Nikole Tesle
8, tel. (+385-20) 35 86 33, email@example.com, www.
tavernaotto.com. May - September Open 12:00 - 16:00,
19:00 - 23:00, Tue 19:00 - 23:00. (80 - 200kn). PTA
You guessed it, the Old Town's only Bosnian restaurant, where you can enjoy good grilled meats including čevapčići - shish kebab. Try one of the pite pies
(we love the spinach one). Sweet tooths will love
baklava, others will fall into a sugar-induced coma!
Also at Iva Vojnovića 14, Hotel Lero.QC‑3, Nikole
Gučetića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 21/(+385-) 098 983
26 20, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.tajmahaldubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 01:00. (60 - 180kn).
TA 6 G B S W
Looking for something a little different from the traditional mediterranean dishes found everywhere? Then
Azur is your answer! The outdoor seating is playfully
decorated with bright and vibrant colours and goes
along with the food, which is just as colourful as the
atmosphere. Featuring a unique blend of asian and
mediterranean dishes, a mix of curry and chili with basil and rosemary spices, it's known as mediterranean
cuisine with an asian twist and will add a delectable
bang to your trip!QD‑4, Pobijana 10, tel. (+385-20) 32
48 06, email@example.com, www.azurvision.com.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. (28 - 148kn). PT J A 6 G
26 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
DOMINO STEAK HOUSE
A serious convention centre for carnivores, with steaks
done in a multitude of styles. The outside seating in a sheltered courtyard just south of Stradun is especially lovely in
hot weather.QB‑3, Od Domina 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 03,
Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 140kn). PTJA6U
“Lucy's Corner” is a cosy little place just off Stradun, all
in sunshine yellow and with wooden furnishings, and
a rustic open kitchen where you can watch the chef at
work. He cooks up tapas and Mediterranean dishes, plus
there's a nice selection of desserts.QB‑2, Od Sigurate bb,
tel. (+385-20) 32 10 03, firstname.lastname@example.org. Open
11:00 - 23:00. May - September Open 11:00 - 01:00. (38 160kn). PTJA6UGBXW
The first beautiful thing about this restaurant is the natural
light that floods through huge windows on all four sides.
The second is the magenta-coloured wall covered in modern paintings by artists from Dubrovnik. Third, and most
important, is the food. Bread and pasta are home-made;
everything is fresh and perfectly prepared, and the service
is first-class.QI‑3, Iva Vojnovića 7a, tel. (+385-20) 33 35
94, email@example.com. Open 10:00 - 23:30.
(80 - 150kn). PAULEGBXSW
Summer 2016 27
Compact and bijou, this small tavern offers a variety of wellprepared seafood dishes and steaks as well as a 'walk on a
wok side' as a good choice for a light lunch. Outdoor seating
immersed in the Old city, local ingredients, wines and tempting
homemade cakes make this value for money - worth visiting.
QC‑2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 55/(+385-) 099
216 54 54, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.pupodubrovnik.
com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (65 - 190kn). TJAUG
Tucked away from the big crowds where serenity reigns
and positioned in front of the Saint Ignatius Church.
Choose from a balanced choice of fish and meat dishes or
platters with excellent wines to dabble. It is typical Dalmatia and we recommend the mussels.QC‑4, Poljana Ruđera
Boškovića 5, tel. (+385-) 098 74 00 73, konobajezuite@
gmail.com, www.restaurantjezuitedubrovnik.com. Open
10:00 - 24:00. (60 - 150kn). JABW
For a delicious traditional Mediterranean meal, don't miss out
on a visit to Bistro Popret. They serve homemade pršut, cheese,
lamb and octopus, as well as delicious rožata or strudel for
dessert. This relaxing atmosphere is located in Gornji Brgat, a
small village on a hill 5km from Dubrovnik. It's an ideal spot for
large gatherings and celebrations, such as a confirmation, first
communion or small wedding party.QPut Hrvatskih branitelja
40, Gornji Brgat, tel. (+385-) 095 198 92 63/(+385-) 091 526
77 82, email@example.com, www.konobapopret.
com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (18 - 120kn). PTA6U
Tucked inside the narrow side streets of the Old City, Konoba Dalmatino has added a unique twist to traditional
Dalmatian cuisine. Try some Homemade Filled Pasta, Mussels in a Cream Wine Sauce or John Dory Fillet from the
appetizing menu, in this warm environment of orange
and brown hues, resembling rustic Tuscany. Old photos of
Dubrovnik line the walls, along with wine bottles that are
displayed around the restaurant, for decoration. To satisfy
your palate, there is an extensive list of wines to choose
from to sip along with your meal. For dessert, don't miss
out on trying the Chocolate Fondant, for a small taste of
heaven.QC‑3, Miha Pracata 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 70/
(+385-) 098 32 74 04, firstname.lastname@example.org,
www.dalmatino-dubrovnik.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00.
(80 - 180kn). PTJA6GBXW
Vetranićeva 4, 20000 Dubrovnik | email@example.com
Tel/Fax: +38520 322 063 | www.burger-tiger-dubrovnik.com
This American-style fast food joint is a unique addition
to the Old Town Dubrovnik. They offer a variety of tasty
hamburgers, hot dogs, tortillas and chicken wings, as
well as yummy fries and onion rings. Sit back and relax
in one of their bright red booths or take a seat in the narrow street between the cool stone walls. It's the perfect
spot for a quick meal while you're seeing the sites or after a
night out on the town when you get the munchies.QC‑2,
Vetranićeva 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 63, dubrovnik.bars.
com. Open 10:00 - 02:00. (20 - 50kn). PTJAU
ABOVE 5 RESTAURANT
Take a walk down the narrow side street Od Sigurate to
the Boutique Hotel Stari Grad, climb up 5 flights of stairs,
and you'll come across this charming and elegant restaurant with a spectacular 360 degree view overlooking the
ancient red roofs and stone streets of the Old City. They
offer delicious Mediterranean dishes made with a unique
twist using only fresh local produce from the market and
wild herbs collected by hand. Their delectable focaccia
bread is a staple on the menu and should not be missed.
The wine list consists of only local Croatian wines.. As well,
they also offer breakfast, such as smoked salmon or avocado
with eggs.QB‑2, Od Sigurate 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 44, info@
hotelstarigrad.com, www.hotelstarigrad.com. Open 12:00 23:00. Closed Sun. (175 - 205kn). TJABXW
Looking for a spot to enjoy a healthy, yet tasty treat in the
heart of Dubrovnik? Look no further. At Mr. Fresh you can
get a savoury smoothie to raise your energy levels as you
explore this beautiful city. To satisfy your hunger they offer
salads, tortillas and sandwiches. As well, to cool off, they
offer four flavours of ice cream, which include wild berries,
jaffa, stracciatella and chocolate. As a special treat, they
also serve cocktails-on-the-go, such as a Mojito, Malibu
Breeze or Gin-Gin.QB‑3, Od Puča 14, tel. (+385-) 095 936
30 07. Open 09:00 - 21:00. From June 15 Open 09:00 24:00. (20 - 45kn). TJABS
28 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
FISH & CHIPS
TORTILLA / WRAP
FRY & DIP
While this restaurant appears at first to be quite modern
the alcoves and walls are very much adorned with items of
a distinct Mediterranean feel - very Roman indeed. Prices
here are definitely cheaper than other similar eateries, either
New or Old City, but the quality remains just as high. You
will be well fed here, have no doubt. If you're based in or
near the Old City then you should not think twice about
jumping on the bus and crossing the city just to eat here.
QH‑1, Obala Stjepana Radića 26, tel. (+385-20) 41 94 19, info@
amforadubrovnik.com, www.amforadubrovnik.com. Open
11:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. June - August Open 11:00 - 16:00,
18:00 - 23:00. (115 - 250 kn). PAGBXW
Summer 2016 29
PANORAMA RESTAURANT & BAR
It's hard to find a more breathtaking view of Dubrovnik
than from this restaurant. Drive up a narrow road to the
top of Mount Srđ or take the cable car up and enjoy a tasty
meal or simply a drink while you look out over the bird'seye view of Dubrovnik and Lokrum. The amazing view is
to die for! Enjoy the sunshine on your face on a bright and
sunny day or come up right before sunset for a spectacular
scene of the sun setting over this gorgeous city.QK/L‑1,
Srđ Hill (upper station), tel. (+385-20) 31 26 64/(+385) 091 486 00 47, firstname.lastname@example.org. Open
09:00 - 24:00. (70 - 250kn). PAGBXW
This appetizing new restaurant is located up a timeworn
stone staircase just outside of the Old Town and has an
amazing view overlooking Porporela and the Old Harbour.
They offer seasonal meat and fish menus, as well as traditional cuisine from not only the Dalmatian region, but
also Istria, such as Fresh Dalmatian Tuna Tartar and Beef
Tenderloin in a Truffle Sauce. For dessert, try a delicious
slice of Chocolate Souffle or Carrot Cake and experience
a small taste of paradise in this romantic setting.QE‑1,
Put od Bosanke 8, tel. (+385-) 099 697 67 29, sales@
com. Open 12:00 - 22:30. (110 - 150kn). PTAL
This small restaurant sits just above the Ploče Gate and has
a pleasant, if somewhat muted, view of the City walls at
night. Like most restaurants here it has a sizeable outdoor
terrace, which is excellently sheltered so that bad weather
need not force you indoors. The menu has a strong selection of Croatian wines and their food would suit a vegan
as well as any carnivore. Some of the dishes vary from that
which you might see elsewhere and seem a delight for
anyone looking for something a little bit different.QE‑1,
Hvarska bb, tel. (+385-20) 42 00 13, gustame.dubrovnik@
gmail.com, www.gustame-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:30
- 24:00. (50 - 150kn). PTA6UGBXSW
Just few years operating in Dubrovnik you could be forgiven for thinking that they'd always been here. All their
food, as you would expect, is sourced locally, and during
the summer months you'll be pleased to note that much
of the fish is off-menu, because they can never know
what the boats will bring in - that's how fresh their fish is.
There's a tavern attached, so if you're waiting for a table
you can always grab yourself a cool, tall, glass of pivo.
QB‑2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4, tel. (+385-20) 41 31
00, email@example.com, www.klarisa-dubrovnik.com.
Open 10:00 - 24:00. (30 - 220kn). PTJA6U
30 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
MEZZANAVE RESTAURANT & BAR
If you're looking for a restaurant to eat at while you're
outside of the old city walls, Mezzanave is the perfect
place to check out. Their shopping mall atmosphere
brings a bit of America to this ancient European city.
They offer tasty meals at a much lower price than in
the Old City. Their menu includes something to suit
everyone's taste, from salads and pizza to lasagna
and ćevapčići. Best of all, from Monday to Friday, for
only 35kn, they offer a daily brunch menu.QI‑2, Dr.
Ante Starčevića 24, tel. (+385-20) 61 01 19, info@
mezzanave.com, www.mezzanave.com. Open 07:00
- 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. June - August Open 07:00
- 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (40 - 100kn). PT A 6
UL G B X S W
The place to splash out in style - a wonderful terrace
overlooking the bay by the Pile gate, and a rather grand
interior - your smelly trainers may raise an eyebrow
or two. Imaginative cuisine inspired by your maritime
surroundings. Expensive, but definitely in a class of its
own in Dubrovnik dining.QA‑2, Brsalje 3, tel. (+38520) 44 25 26, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.
nautikarestaurant.com. Open 18:00 - 24:00. (257 398kn). PJ A G B X W
An Aladdin's cave of antique treasures, contemporary music and an eclectic blend of local and Mediterranean recipes orchestrated by the fastidious owner. Succulent lamb
in dill sauce, saltimbocca, beautifully seasoned vegetables
and pancakes with orange and almonds - everything is
sublime.QJ/K‑3, Dante Alighieria 2, tel. (+385-20) 41 29
10, email@example.com, www.sesame.hr. Open
12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 22:00. (90 - 150kn). PTA6
MEET THE MEAT
One of the newest editions to the Old City, they offer an
array of delicious grilled meats, such as Croatian Beef Fillet
Steak, Croatian Veal T-bone and USA Black Angus Striploin
in a charming and cozy environment. Located away from
the main hustle and bustle of the town, enjoy a tasty meal
in this peaceful setting.QD‑4, Pobijana 2, tel. (+38520) 48 49 78, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.paparazzo.hr/.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. (100 - 250kn). PTJA6G
Interested in tasting an octopus hamburger? Now
is your chance! Barba offers delicious octopus hamburgers for a unique street food experience. As well,
try some fried oysters, tuna calzone or seafood pizza
slices. A great spot for all seafood lovers to eat a quick
bite on-the-go or to sit and relax on a cozy bar stool
indoors.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 5, tel. (+385-) 091 205 34
88, email@example.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00.
June 15 - September Open 10:00 - 02:00. (35 - 59kn).
PT J A G S W
Kamenice has legions of fans around the world for its
huge portions of tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices. It’s a simple place on the market square, near the
statue of Mr Gundulić.QC‑3, Gundulićeva poljana 8,
tel. (+385-20) 32 36 82, firstname.lastname@example.org. May
Open 08:00 - 23:00. June - September Open 08:00 24:00. (58 - 123kn). JA B
The restaurant of Dubrovnik’s yacht club has a reputation as one of the evergreen reliable spots for good
quality food. The emphasis is, appropriately enough, on
seafood. Plenty of terrace seating overlooks the yachts
and assorted marine traffic in the Gruž harbour.QH‑2,
Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-20) 43 68 22, ankora.doo@
Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - 200kn). PT A 6 G B
OYSTER & SUSHI BAR BOTA
This is one of a number of locations around Croatia and
it’s very much fair to say that the Dubrovnik branch
is every bit as good as that in Zagreb or in Split. The
restaurant staff was exceptionally courteous, and were
very helpful in explaining the items on the menu. The
restaurant itself is entirely outdoors, on a secluded terrace, but there is a nice view of the hustle and bustle
just below. Although situated at the centre of the Old
City it is flanked by the quieter streets. Ideally suited to
a place for a quick bite, or a relaxing afternoon repast.
QD‑4, Od Pustijerne bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 34, SALES2@
BOTA-SARE.HR, www.bota-sare.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00.
June - September Open 11:00 - 24:00. (28 - 135kn). PJ
Nautika’s little brother is not only a little cheaper but
also has a wonderful location just off Stradun. Superb
food - mainly seafood, but meat dishes kick ass too a supremely romantic ambience and friendly service
make this a strong contender for top dining spot.QC‑2,
Široka 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 34, email@example.com, www.esculaprestaurants.com. Open 10:00 23:00. (150 - 250kn). PA G B X W
Summer 2016 31
The menu catches the eye, if only for the prices. It’s certainly cheaper than other similar establishments in the immediate area (Tabasco is just outside the walls, between
the Ploče and Buža Gates). Here you can get takeaway, delivery, or simply eat in. The restaurant has a great shaded
terrace, from which one can relax, and watch the tourists
pass by in their hundreds. Both local and tourist opinion
has it that this is the best pizza in all of Dubrovnik. The beer
is also some of the cheapest in price.QE‑1, Hvarska 48a,
tel. (+385-20) 42 95 95. Open 09:30 - 24:00. (23 - 85kn).
The sunset from the terrace is unforgettable as the Mediterranean Sea reflects in front of you. Add to that local
Mediterranean specialties served amidst landscaped
stone, olive and pine trees surroundings, Villa Ruža is a haven. Chock a block selection of wines. Means of transport
include regular ferry lines from the Gruž Port or via private
transfer.QDonje Čelo bb, Koločep Island, tel. (+385-20)
75 70 30/(+385-) 098 44 33 82, firstname.lastname@example.org,
www.villa-ruza.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (140 - 215kn).
Jam packed into a street filled with restaurants is this small
haven for non-meaty lovers. You’ll find a fusion vegetarian cuisine from all over the world. Choose from falafel,
curry, soups, salad bar and much more. The menu also
contains vegan and gluten-free dishes for those more in
tune with Mother Nature. Enjoy the local wines, beers, and
home-made juices that Nishta has to offer. A lot of thought
has gone into the design of the toilets, so make sure you
arrive with a full bladder otherwise you will miss out on
the joke.QC‑2, Prijeko bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 88, info@
nishtarestaurant.com, www.nishtarestaurant.com. Open
11:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (77 - 95kn). JAGBX
A romantic and picturesque restaurant located along the
waterfront in Cavtat, tasteful pieces of artwork decorating
the walls and flowers adorning each wooden table, give
this restaurant an artsy and creative feel. Their menu is decided based on the fresh ingredients available, as they use
only fresh fish from the Adriatic and seasonal homegrown
vegetables from Mljet and Konavle to create their spectacular dishes, so the menu is constantly changing. An additional plus is the extremely friendly staff.QObala Ante
Starčevića 9, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 99 49, bugenvila.
email@example.com, www.bugenvila.eu. Open 12:00 16:00, 18:30 - 22:45. (70 - 280kn). TALB
One of the best places to try quality local cooking in Cavtat,
this little gem on the waterfront in the very centre of this
beautiful little town is renowned among locals for its risottos. They don't mess around when it comes to steaks and
seafood either.QTrumbićev put 11, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20)
47 84 77/(+385-) 098 24 42 25, info@restaurant-leut.
com, www.restaurant-leut.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (70
- 250kn). PAUGBW
34 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Tables are scattered in thick woods watered by the Ljuta
(“angry”) brook, whose force drives the millwheel and
feeds the trout ponds. Fantastic meat dishes (and trout)
served by wait staff in traditional Konavle costume. You
may be accompanied by several busloads of tourists.
QLjuta bb, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 79 10 39/(+385-) 099
251 71 58, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.esculap-teo.hr.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 110kn). ALGBXW
Set in the lush rural region of Konavle, the stone terrace
has a fantastic view. Everything is home grown and full of
flavour: try juicy meats cooked under an iron bell heaped
with embers or charcoal grilled fish, a garden salad and
home made apple strudel.QVelji dol, Jasenice, Cavtat,
tel. (+385-20) 47 96 07, email@example.com.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. (45 - 100kn). A6LGBXW
Whether it's the location next to the birthplace of Marco
Polo, the great charcoal grilled food or the chef who's apt
to burst into song, Adio Mare has been a Mecca for tourists for decades. It's the one with the queue waiting for
a table!QUlica Marca Pola 2, Korčula town, tel. (+38520) 71 12 53/(+385-) 098 172 52 52, konobaadiomare@
gmail.com, www.konobaadiomare.hr. Open 12:00
- 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. (90 - 180kn). PJA6
If you opt to enjoy the shallow, fine sand beaches at Lumbarda, don't miss a meal at this rather special place. The
owners catch, rear and grow everything that lands on your
table. The food is excellent, and the pomegranate rakija a
unique experience!QLumbarda 239, Korčula, tel. (+38520) 71 23 34/(+385-) 091 512 87 12, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.zure.hr. Open 18:00 - 24:00. (70 - 180kn).
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
U Facilities for the disabled
B Outside seating
L Guarded parking
S Take away
J Old town location
There can be few better places to relax over a leisurely
Adriatic meal than Obala, set right on Lopud's waterfront
with a trio of stately palm trees offering shade. The menu
covers familiar fish and seafood territory with the addition of several chicken-based alternatives and a succulent
baked octopus with potatoes. Food prices are moderate;
sunsets and the sound of lapping sea-water are on the
house.QObala Ivana Kuljevana 18, Lopud, tel. (+38520) 75 91 70/(+385-) 098 51 27 25, email@example.com.
hr, www.obalalopud.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (150 300kn). PAGBXW
The restaurant is known for its pristine oysters, local olives,
cheese, hams and sensual wines. On offer are also rooms and
suites that have been refurbished with state of the art features.
Friendly staff looks after every detail.QMali Ston, tel. (+38520) 75 49 99/(+385-) 098 34 42 33, firstname.lastname@example.org.
hr, www.vila-koruna.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (60 - 150kn).
If you happen to be enjoying the fine beaches of Župa
Dubrovačka, be sure to pop into Konoba Marinero in Mlini,
where you'll find colourful tables set in lush gardens overlooking the sea. Great seafood and local specialities are
carefully prepared by the lady owner - a supremely relaxing treat.QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+38520) 48 72 57/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, email@example.com.
hr, www.vivado.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 180kn).
The high point of this otherwise excellent fish restaurant is the
terrace hovering so close to the sea that you could lean over
the railing and draw your hand through the water. Great for
a romantic meal at sundown, it's worth the trip to this little
village just north of Dubrovnik.QDr.Ante Starčevića 2, Zaton Veliki, tel. (+385-20) 89 10 31, firstname.lastname@example.org.
hr, www.restaurant-ankora-dubrovnik.com. Open 12:00 24:00. (70 - 150kn). ABXW
This fine family villa has its own beach and moorings, and has
enjoyed a cult reputation for good food since opening in 1966.
Best known for its eponymous risotto (an carnival of seafood)
and salad made from motar, a grass that grows at the edge
of the sea.QŠtikovica 42, Zaton Mali, tel. (+385-20) 89 12
67, email@example.com, www.gverovic-orsan.hr.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. (110 - 200kn). A6LGBXW
Blato Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Dinko Oreb
Despite Dubrovnik having centuries-old trading connections across the globe, the cuisine of this region is very
much based on the gifts of nature in this part of the world.
Classic Dubrovnik cuisine is seasoned with parsley, garlic,
olive oil and lemon, and perhaps a touch of rosemary or
bay leaf if the chef is on the adventurous side. A true Mediterranean experience, you might say.
This tendency to eschew more exotic ingredients can be a
double-edged sword. On the one hand, the city's menus
can seem somewhat repetitive. On the other hand, what
you eat is fresh, natural and, in the better restaurants, local.
The simplicity of the preparation lets the flavours of high
quality ingredients do the work. It's hard to beat a good
piece of meat or fish grilled over charcoal with a salad
freshly picked from a hinterland garden.
In defence of simple cooking, experiments with “imaginative” cuisine can be like playing Russian roulette. In anything
but the most skilled hands and pedantic husbandry the
result can be disappointing. For example, in Provence, as
Financial Times food columnist Rowley Leigh complained
bitterly in summer 2012, it's hard find an authentic bouillabaisse or ratatouille these days. Peasant food gains elevated
status and loses its guts. Croatian food is still unfashionably
plentiful and full of flavour, and all the better for it.
So, what can you eat in Dubrovnik if you'd like to escape the
grilled fish - grilled meat - pasta trinity? The best answer is
the same as anywhere: the same as the local people eat
Let's start with the basics. Šporke makarule is the local version of everyone's favourite: spaghetti bolognaise. However, with hand-made pasta, small chunks of beef (not mince)
and fresh tomatoes, it becomes something special. You'll
see big vats of the stuff served on the street at Carnival time
in February. But even on the hottest day, add a crisp green
salad and you've the perfect lunch.
A more special dish served throughout Dalmatia is
pašticada. There are many variations, but generally a lean
piece of beef is studded with carrot, garlic and smoked ba-
36 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
con and marinated in wine, oil, vinegar with perhaps a little
orange and lemon. It's cooked in a rich sauce, sometimes
with prunes, and served with soft gnocci.
A winter warmer that truly displays the spirit of the region
is konavoska zelena menestra. A selection of cured meats
(pork, mutton, sausage) is cooked up with winter greens
and potato. When finished, the meat is served on a plate
and the smokily scented veg dished up with a little of the
soupy liquid and lashings of olive oil. This dish dates from
the 16th century; for added historical effect substitute
barley for potato. Fast forward to springtime when broad
beans are ready for picking: try them cooked with smoked
mutton, garlic, parsley and bacon fat.
To get a little more exotic, consider an excursion northwards to the Pelješac peninsula, where you can treat yourself to Ostrea edulis, otherwise known as the finest oysters
in the world, prepared in a million different ways. While
you're there, look out also for butarga (dried flathead mullet roe); there are a couple of families here who still prepare
this rare delicacy.
Further north still, the Neretva river estuary is home to all
kinds of aquatic life and a magnet for culinary adventurers. Fancy a plateful of snails cooked over an open fire? Eel
cooked in a rich brudet sauce? Frog risotto, perhaps? It's
the perfect end to a watery day's safari.
To accompany your traditional-style meal you'll want a
drop of the local grape. Where reds are concerned it's easy.
The Pelješac peninsula is the home of some of the most
prized wines in Croatia: Dingač and Postup. Redolent
of the sun that warms the rocky vineyards, they're high
in flavour and alcohol and a little bit pricey. Their cheaper
younger brother, Plavac pelješki, is a palatable alternative. For whites, look out for Dubrovnik Malvasia (not the
same thing as Istrian Malvazija). It might be white but it's
pretty intense so can go with meats as well as fish.
And to finish off, you'll see rožata on many a menu: it's
the local version of crème caramel. Not so frequently spotted is stonska torta made with cooked macaroni. We think
there's no better way than to finish your meal than some
Summer 2016 37
fragrant figs (fresh in season, dried at other times), a handful of almonds and a liquer made from oranges, mandarins or rose petals.
And speaking of which, here are a couple of recipes you
might try to bring back sweet memories of your time in
Peel an orange, preferably unwaxed, organically grown (you
don't want pesticides on the skin). Cut the peel into strips
about 3-5cm long and 0.5cm wide. Pop the peel into a dish
and cover with water. Leave to stand for two days. Put the
strips and water in a pan, bring to the boil then drain off the
water. Add sugar in an amount equal to the weight of the
orange strips. Stir in the pan with just a drop of water until the
water evaporates. Again, leave to drain, then roll the strips in
sugar. Leave to dry.
Sugared almonds to you and me. Weigh out some almonds,
pop them in a pan with an equal amount of sugar. For every
50g of almonds add a dessert spoon of water. Warm the pan
on a medium heat, constantly stirring until all the sugar melts,
then solidifies and sticks to the almonds. Shake onto a plate
and leave to cool before attacking.
From Dubrovnik in the south, it's a strongly flavoured dessert that looks like a jelly. No friends, it's not a jelly at all but is
instead the wiggly product of a sweet and bitter fruit called
dunja. Wise old grandmas often place a number of these
yellow guys all around the house to ward off the raunchier
stenches that can build up from time to time.
A purple - coloured cake served with sweet black syrup, almonds and cinnamon.
Those who do not know much about Croatia can be forgiven
for not realising that wine is as much a part of life here as it is
Italy, a country which sits on the opposite side of the Adriatic
Sea. In fact, wine has been a part of this region since the days
of the Ancient Greeks, who had settled parts of Dalmatia in the
5th century BC, including the islands of Hvar, Vis, and Korčula
(birth place to Marco Polo). In time, the Roman Empire expanded into Dalmatia - then peopled by the Illyrians - bringing
with it more modernised methods of cultivation, and under
Roman rule Dalmatian wine saw itself being exported to other
parts of the Mediterranean, and beyond. Eventually the Croats
would come to live here, and they saw fit to further expand the
region's wine production. Croatian wines would be welcome
at the Austrian and Hungarian courts, and with many a farmer
relying on his own vines to keep him in wine then you could
be assured that quality levels were kept quite high.
38 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
The country's history being what it is it's perhaps not such
a surprise to discover that some of the wineries are not so
well known, even nationally, but it won't be long before
all of that will change. Here, we'll look some of the more
tempting local wines.
Plavac Mali, or Little Blue, is a variety of red grape closely
related to Zinfandel and Primitivo. It is grown almost exclusively on the western side of the island of Hvar and the
Pelješac peninsula. The wine it produces tends towards a
deep purple-red colour, high in tannins, extract, and alcohol. Normally presenting a rich, dry taste, the better vintages will be more mild and sweet. Those who know such
things recommend that such reds be enjoyed with red
meat dishes, black olives, and salted anchovies. Dingač is
a variety of Plavac Mali and is considered by many to be
the Holy Grail of local wines, and can only be grown in this
region as a result of very specific geographical conditions.
Such is its importance to Dalmatia that in 1961 it fell under
the protection of the Geneva Convention, the first Croatian
wine to do so. It is of a deep ruby red colour, of an exceptionally unique and luxurious bouquet, a nicely accentuated aroma, and a harmonious fullness of taste. Dingač was
joined in 1967 by Postup, a top-quality red wine created
from the grapes of the Plavac Mali variety, exclusively from
the location of Postup, which is on the southern slopes of
the Pelješac peninsula. Postup is a darker red, with a full,
harmonious taste with a touch of crispness.
Now, while it's true that Dalmatians prefer red wine to
white (the opposite would be the case in Croatia overall),
there are more than a few high quality whites available.
Rukatac, however, is the gleaming jewel in Dalmatia's
crown. An endangered grape to be sure, it is indigenous
to the peninsula. It can be found from Prevlaka to the
Croatian coast, and again on the islands of Korčula and Lastovo. Wines made from Rukatac are ideal for dessert wines,
known as prošek. It is often greenish to golden colour with
an extremely pleasant bouquet. Like most other whites,
this is best while it is still young to drink during the first or
possibly second year.
There are other producers on the peninsula of course, and
it would be remiss to neglect names such as Korta Katarina,
Skaramuča, Madirazza, Matuško, to list but a few. The area's
wineries are generally inclined towards a wholly welcoming atmosphere, with Udruga pelješki vinski puti (Association of Pelješac Wine Trails) and Plavac Mali being just two
associations which put considerable effort into ensuring
grape quality and the promotion of the peninsula's wine
growers and wine trails.
Detailing any one of the many wine trails would take too
much time and too many print inches. Needless to say that
any tourist may put their fate in the hands of a seasoned
local or tour guide and take advice from them - or put the
effort in and plan your own tour of this Croatian exclave.
More than a few tour operators will bring buses and boats
onto the peninsula from Split and Trogir, and if you're time
is flexible enough then it's well worth taking the day to get
as many wineries and vineyards in as possible. Make sure
you find yourself near Ston, because you'll want to sample
the oysters as well as the wine.
WINE TRAILS & GASTRO TOURISM
Wine trails, or roads, are an important economic tool for
any region such as the Pelješac peninsula. When you're
not only removed from the centre of the continent but
from your own country too, you must do all in your power
to ensure that your tourism sector is doing its best to attract - and keep - as many visitors as possible.
Wine trails are not a new concept as well worn roads
emerged over centuries of use as producers moved their
wine to market. The more worn the road the more popular
- it's reasonable to assume - the wines which are produced
within its vineyards. Alongside these wine trails a healthy
gastro-tourism sector is developing; after all, you do need
to eat if you're going to be drinking several glasses of wine
over the course of a day. With Dalmatia offering a variety
of local and Mediterranean, you're never likely to try the
same dish twice even if you're dining out each night of
THE FOODIE'S GUIDE
09.06 THURSDAY - 15.09 THURSDAY
FLAVOURS OF PELJEŠAC
If food and wine is right up your alley, then come on
down to the Trpanj waterfront for a culinary delight! Every Thursday from June 9, rich local cuisine that is typically Mediterranean will be presented and tip top Pelješac
wines will help wash the down the food. This serene fishing town is a tiny oasis and the Dalmatian music in the
background makes for enchanting evenings.QMimbelli
square, Orebić, Pelješac.
Fishing for mullets (cipol) is a time-honoured tradition in
the Neretva region. During the summer months, fishermen patiently sit along the banks of the green and clean
Neretva River and catch this fish which can then be prepared into a variety of dishes. At the end of the summer a
competition in catching mullets called 'Cipolijada' is held.
The competition continues into the night with a “Fishing Night” of music and dancing, during which time the
fish are prepared, cooked, and eaten.QMetković, www.
THE FLAVOURS OF PELJEŠAC, TRPANJ
Connoisseurs of wine eat your hearts out with this gastronomic experience in which Pelješac wines and cuisine
are presented. Rich local cookery, the best wine drop, and
rhythms of Dalmatian music set the scene for a remarkable
evening. Visitors can try for free, and then buy the wine
that best suits their palate.QTrpanj, Pelješac, www.tzotrpanj.hr.
KORČULA WINE FESTIVAL - BLACK ISLAND
With a millennia old tradition of wine making, the island
of Korčula is renowned above all for the quality of its white
wines (Pošip and Rukatac), whereas among the reds the
most popular is Plavac Mali. These wines are celebrated
for their exquisite character, complexity, and accentuated aromas which reflect the Mediterranean sunshine,
scents and tastes. So, to all wine connoisseurs, get ready to
dabble!QKorčula, Korčula Island, www.visitkorcula.eu.
23.07 SATURDAY - 31.07 SUNDAY
THE 6TH POŠIP DAYS IN ČARA AND SMOKVICA
When wine is fine, nobody minds! And the towns of
Smokvica and Čara on Korčula have a well-known tradition in wine growing and wine production dating from
ancient Greek times. Pošip is among the most famous
Croatian white wines. It is named after the authentic grape
varieties only found in these areas. So if you happen to be
close by, visit some of the wineries and feel free to partake
in the art of wine tasting.QČara and Smokvica, Korčula
25.07 MONDAY & 28.08 SUNDAY
TOAST FROM THE HOST
Heaven on earth! This tiny island of St. Mary is 120m x
200m and dominated by an ancient Benedictine monastery. It's an escape from everything and the perfect setting for a wine and food event where Pelješac wine makers
and other manufacturers of eco products from the island
of Mljet present their products. With Dalmatian music in
the background again, enjoy the sounds and flavours of
Mljet. Qthe small island of St. Mary and Pomena, www.
Wine lovers ought to know that the Pelješac Peninsula is
a mecca for wine production and has been for centuries.
Spend one evening in the town of Drače, and particularly
on its pier for fine local culinary and wine. Dalmatian acapella choirs provide musical melodies with their angelic
voices and all proceeds will go towards a good cause.
29.06 WEDNESDAY & 15.08 MONDAY
MLJET’S HIDDEN CORNERS
Ethno culinary event that connects several manifestations of the same character into one and held exclusively
in the old villages of the island. Local housewives use
fresh ingredients to prepare and present local delicacies,
brandies and wines. There is live music, folklore, old photographs and crafts, and even some records playing. It's
as if time stops for a moment, and so let it be!QIsland of
Mljet, Blato and Korita, www.mljet.hr.
40 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Summer 2016 41
DUBROVNIK CABLE CAR
T. +385 20 325 393, E. firstname.lastname@example.org, Www.dubrovnikcablecar.com
PANORAMA RESTAURANT & BAR
T. +385 20 312 664, E. email@example.com, Www.nautikarestaurants.com
Coffee & Cakes
Tovjerna Sesame Archives
This colourful little spot does great cakes, muffins and ice
cream - among the best in town - just off Stradun.QC‑2,
Nalješkovićeva 1a, tel. (+385-20) 32 16 66/(+385-) 098
944 99 51, firstname.lastname@example.org. Open
09:00 - 24:00. PNB
GOSSIP ICECREAM DUBROVNIK
If you're looking for a quick snack while exploring Dubrovnik then Gossip is the perfect spot to stop by. Located
on Stradun, they offer tasty salads, sandwiches and hotdogs, as well as various ice cream flavours and frozen yogurt to satisfy your sweet tooth. As well, they even have
mojitos-to-go, a refreshing drink to cool you off as you
roam the ancient city. Also at Placa 3 under the name
Eat&Sweet!QC‑2, Boškovićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 17
45, www.icecream-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00.
(10 - 50kn). TJNS
Situated in the Old City, Pupica is the sort of patisserrie (slastičarnica) which would be right at home in almost
any European city, town, or village, of character. Teas, coffees, and juices are a given, but it's the wide selection of
homemade cakes and confectionary which offers a relaxing and refreshing change from the cafe culture of Croatia.
This should be a definite on any list of places to visit, and
you'll likely find yourself making any excuse just to stop by
and sample yet another slice of whatever has taken your
fancy. QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. (+385-) 099 216 54 54,
com. Open 07:00 - 22:00. PTJA6UGB
Located in Uvala Lapad, they are famous for their delicious crepes, called palačinke in Croatian. They offer both
sweet and salty choices, such as nutella and marmalade or
ham and cheese. As well, they have both Cheesecake and
Chocolate Cake to satisfy your sweet cravings along with
a huge variety of ice cream flavours.QG‑2, Šetalište kralja
Zvonimira 5, tel. (+385-20) 43 60 51. Open 09:00 - 22:00.
44 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
This colourful and bright Frozen Yogurt Shop offers delicious frozen yogurt with numerous toppings to add,
such as cookie or chocolate chunks, rainbow sprinkles,
fruit pieces and many more. You can create the yogurt
cup of your dreams! They also serve scrumptious crepes
and savory smoothies to satisfy your sweet tooth.QB‑2,
Čubranovićeva 3, email@example.com. Open
10:00 - 21:00. Open 09:00 - 24:00. July - August Open
09:00 - 01:00. PJ N G B W
Perched up in a neighbourghood just above Ploče, this
place is worth seeking out to meet up with bike fans
from around the world. The friendly staff will try their
best to sort you out with a place to stay.QL‑2, Petra
Krešimira IV 39, tel. (+385-) 098 68 07 11. Open 07:00 01:00. PN B X W
CAVE BAR MORE
This natural cave, located under Hotel More, has, with a
little help from the human hand, been transformed into
a delightfully relaxing bar. No music is played here: your
thoughts and conversations are accompanied only by
the sound of the sea. Enjoy a cocktail and give rein to
your imagination!QF‑2, Kardinala Stepinca 33 (Hotel
More), tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00, cavebardubrovnik@
gmail.com, www.cavebar-more.com. Open 10:00 24:00. AW
CELTIC BAR BELFAST
‘The Belfast' is a café situated near Kralj Tomislav, and
while there is a lack of Irish beers it is certainly a welcoming and relaxing place, in which to enjoy a kava or
a small Žuja during the warm Dubrovnik days. The interior is festooned with Celtic FC memorabilia, and the
fittings and fixtures are far from clichéd bric-a-brac usually associated with such places.QG‑2, Marka Marulića
21, firstname.lastname@example.org. Open 07:00 - 02:00.
PT 6 N G B X W
Coffee & Cakes
When the sun dawns and the stars begin to appear an
entire new ambience is felt throughout the city. The
night scene in Dubrovnik is not much different from the
rest of Croatia. The narrow streets in the Old Town become a source of music, laughter, clamor and romance.
A true international atmosphere is sensed all-round.
Classical music concerts are held in city palaces with
a strong international contingent appearing on stage.
Open-air theater and performances are always an essential part of the summer evening too.
The main walkway called Stradun and its interconnecting and surrounding streets definitely offer various venues with music of all kinds as well as audacious drink assortments that will tickle anyone's tonsils. Local aperitifs
and liquors are popular as well as delicacies like smoked
ham and cheese, which always come in handy as you
soldier on through the night. Lots of bars and restaurants are open till late with Mediterranean most popular.
In the heart of Lapad, this is a café dedicated to those who know
their Bvlgari from their Balenciaga, with even the occasional
fashion show going on. Sunglasses the size of dinner plates
are mandatory.QH‑2, Kralja Tomislava 7. Open 06:00 - 02:00.
This coffee house right on Stradun is the place where local
bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate to chew the fat, literally and
metaphorically. You can pick up a well-priced light lunch special
here, and the terrace location couldn't be better.QD‑2, Placa
bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 48, dubrovnik.bars.restaurants@
gmail.com, cafefestival.com. Open 07:00 - 02:00. PT
One of a plethora of little cafes stroke drinking holes in the side
streets leading north from Stradun. This one is nice enough inside, has a couple of shady tables out, and plays the pop, rock and
dance beloved of its youthful clientele.QC‑2, Kunićeva 5. Open
08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. PA6GBXW
If you fancy a healthy breakfast you might try here: as well
as coffee, they do excellent fresh juices and smoothies. In the
evening, this is a good place to get the night off to a good
start with one of their range of cocktails or craft beers.QC‑2,
Palmotićeva 5, email@example.com. Open 08:30 - 02:00.
46 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Cosy, snug, intimate - all words to describe some
place small, and indeed small it is, but it also the oldest café within the walls, and not even 35 years old
at that. Opened specifically for locals it would be fair
to describe this place as Dubrovnik's best kept secret.
Opened by Lući, one of the famed Dubrovački trubaduri it should really be on your list of places to enjoy a
beer or two. Don't be surprised if you find you're sitting in someone's seat though. A thoroughly enjoyable
experience.QD‑2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 26.
Open 10:00 - 14:00, 20:00 - 24:00. 6G B X W
It must be noted that in most bars and pubs people
prefer to stand, it's the best way to mingle, break the
herd or even go to the WC. Once you're packed in like a
sardine, then standing room can often alter from being
indoors to outdoors; not to mention the fresh air. The
city's clubs and lounge bars are open till late, so if you're
up for an all-nighter, by all means!
Unremarkable at first glance, step inside and you'll discover a
shabby-chic haven, with couches made from old-fashioned
bathtubs and tables from re-“cycled” (ha ha) washing machine drums. Cocktails, creativity and smoothies all in one
small but perfect package.QK‑3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 25,
tel. (+385-) 095 866 04 11. Open 09:00 - 02:00. GBXW
What a place to sit - rocky terraces overlooking the open
sea south of the Old Town. There's no running water here
so bottled drinks only - which are pretty pricey - but the laid
back music and hedonistic mood make up for everything.
QD‑4, Outside the city walls near St.Stephen's tower, tel.
(+385-) 098 36 19 34. Open 08:00 - 03:00 or according to
weather conditions. B
Located parallel to Stradun, this lively bar offers an array of
drinks to enjoy with your friends during a night out on the
town. For those who like sweet drinks they have a long list
of various cocktails. They also offer a variety of local Croatian beers, such as Zmajsko Pale Ale and Grička Vještica, an
extra strong dark beer. As well, for a special treat, they host
live music nights.QC‑2, Prijeko 21, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 25,
firstname.lastname@example.org. Open 08:00 - 02:00. PJ6
This vintage chic cafe and rakija bar, hidden within
the backstreets of the Old City, is the perfect spot to
kick back and relax with some friends. The musically
inspired dim atmosphere offers a great environment
for a low-key night out on the town. For some fresh air,
there's additional seating outside, tucked in between
the historic stone walls.QC‑3, Uska ulica 5, tel. (+385) 095 199 85 07, email@example.com. Open 08:00 02:00. PT J A 6 E G B X W
Summer 2016 47
CULTURE CLUB REVELIN
Back in the day, the 16th century Revelin Fortress used to
protect the city from robust invaders, nowadays it is home
to the vivacious Revelin nightclub. Its two floors are often
jam-packed with punters dancing to local and international music. The terrace is a great escape for some fresh
air and its seaside views.QE‑1, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort
Revelin), tel. (+385-) 098 53 35 31, cultureclubrevelin@
gmail.com, www.clubrevelin.com. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 06:00. June - September Open 23:00 - 06:00. PAW
Culture Club Revelin Archives
On a fine square near the Cathedral, this café slash bar has
great outside seating to rival Troubadour's. The inside isn't
bad either (not that you'll need it, we hope) and beer and
cocktails are well priced.QC‑3, Bunićeva poljana 3, tel.
(+385-) 095 914 54 62. Open 08:00 - 02:00. PNB
A perfect spot for people-watching on comfy loungers
right opposite the Rector's Palace - you can see people
climbing about on the city walls. This place does coffees
by day and shakes the cocktails by night. The toilets are
designed for the fairy people.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 4,
tel. (+385-) 098 915 99 09, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.
nonenina.com. Open 09:00 - 02:00. PAEBW
ROCK CAFFE EXIT
Bar on the first floor of a small building, just off the Stradun,
not visible but audible from the outside. It has very good
acoustics and friendly staff. Altogether a good atmosphere
to start the night out.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 4, tel. (+385-)
095 914 54 62, email@example.com. Open 18:00
- 02:00. July - September Open 19:00 - 03:00. PJ
TROUBADOUR HARD JAZZ CAFE
It's hard to beat a warm evening spent here toe-tapping to
mellow jazz (live acts too), with your super-size view onto
the Cathedral. A near-perfect experience, so we'll forgive
the significantly above-average prices.QC‑3, Bunićeva
poljana 2. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00.
BANJE BEACH NIGHT CLUB
The Banje beach at Ploče is where posers come to perfect
their tans, since Beach Club rents out funky loungers and
screens to protect one's privacy from the hoi polloi. This
bar churns out cocktails and keeps ‘em dancing ‘til The
Man says go home.QL‑5, Frana Supila 10b, tel. (+38520) 41 22 20/(+385-) 099 211 96 66, www.banjebeach.
eu. Open Sat 22:00 - 05:00. From June 18 - September
Open 22:00 - 05:00. PABW
48 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
These superb stone spaces in the former quarantine house
are given over to happenings of an arty/underground nature, including quality DJs spinning electronica. An international multimedia festival is held here, which includes
independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and
more. For info on programme check their FB.QL‑2, Frana
Supila bb, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.lazareti.com. Open
Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. June - September Open Thu - Sat
22:00 - 05:00.
Escape the scorching summer heat and cool off at Culto!
What makes this bar unique is its exquisitely decorated interior and good atmosphere. Definitely worth a visit, it has
a vibe and attracts a bubbly crowd.QI‑4, Iva Vojnovića
39a, tel. (+385-) 099 314 64 96. Open 08:00 - 04:00.
For a low key night out on the town, slide down one of the
side streets off of Stradun and into this Irish inspired Pub.
The dark green walls adorned with Irish paraphernalia and
thick wooden tables give the place an Irish feel. Enjoy a
sporting event on one of the many large screen TVs with
some friends as you savour a Guinness, Carling or Erdinger
beer. They also offer a variety of dishes and snacks if you
get the munchies, such as Hummus, Caesar Salad Chicken
Wings or BBQ Ribs.QC‑3, Miha Pracata 4, tel. (+385-20)
64 01 52, email@example.com. Open 09:00 01:00. July - August Open 09:00 - 02:00. PJA6
IRISH PUB KARAKA
This popular meeting spot is a must during your trip to
Dubrovnik. It's a delightful and lively place to enjoy a drink
with your friends while you're out visiting the Old Town.
Big screen TVs show the latest sporting events, while this
fun-filled pub is always filled with people pouring out into
the stone streets of Dubrovnik.QC‑2, Između polača 5,
tel. (+385-20) 32 39 70, dubrovnik.bars.restaurants@
gmail.com, irishpubkaraka.com. Open 09:00 - 02:00.
In a narrow street just off the Stradun, this is a great place
for sampling local tipple by the glass, with good advice on
what to try from the friendly staff. Attracts a good mix of
locals and tourists, most of whom end up engaged in halfsozzled conversation on the stone steps outside. Along
with wine, you can enjoy the home made delicacies such
as prosciutto, cheese, kulen, olives, and a bit of this to a bit
of that for a Dalmatian sensation.QC‑2, Palmotićeva 4a,
tel. (+385-20) 32 11 30, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.dvino.
net. Open 10:00 - 02:00. JAGBW
LA BODEGA DUBROVNIK
Conveniently located in the heart of the Old City, right
next to the St. Blaise church, this is a great spot for drinking
some superb wine. This chic and trendy wine bar at night
also offers a breakfast and brunch menu for the early birds
to enjoy the sights and sounds of the most popular street,
Stradun, by day.QD‑3, Lučarica 1, tel. (+385-) 099 462 95
55, email@example.com, www.labodega.hr. Open
08:00 - 02:00. PJA6BXW
RAZONODA WINE BAR
This wine and Croatian tapas bar is one of the newest
additions to the Old Town. It's part of the Pucić Palace
Hotel and has a refined and gentlemen's club feel. They
offer the finest Croatian wines, from the Pelješac region
in southern Croatia, to Istra in the northwest and Slavonia in the northeast. As a snack, munch on some pršut,
cheese or marinated anchovies. There's also plenty of
unique drink options for all non-wine lovers to try, such
as unpasteurized and unfiltered San Servolo beer rich in
vitamin-B complex, tea made from olive leaves or Chemex coffee from the world renowned Eliscaffe in Zagreb.
QC‑3, Od puča 1, tel. (+385-) 091 332 41 04, winebar@
thepucicpalace.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. PAGW
Bring this guide and get 20% discount
This local family, known for producing some of the finest
wines from Potomje, a village located in the Peljašac region, goes by the motto, “Svi smo mi Mato Matuško samo
je Dundo Bobo.” Their wine bar, located in the Old City is
a a great spot to unwind from a busy day. Sit back and
relax in this cozy brick and stone environment with a
glass of Royal Dingač or Pošip. They also are currently the only place in Dubrovnik where you can smoke
shisha.QC‑2, Prijeko 6, tel. (+385-) 099 807 08 02,
Open 10:00 - 02:00. PT J A 6 E G B X W
Ožujsko Draught Beer (0,3 • 0,5 • 1L • 3L)
XXL Cocktails 1L • 3L
Bunićeva Poljana 3, 20 000 Dubrovnik
+385 (0)95 726 0981
50 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Igor Brautović
DOMINICAN MONASTERY (DOMINIKANSKI
The Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the
13th century, and with the building of their monastery a
century later, they became an important part of the city's
defences - the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Old
Town, vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful
stone steps lead up to the complex - notice that the balustrades have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking
up devout ladies' skirts! As befits the monastery's strategic position, from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside
hides a jewel of a gothic and renaissance cloister (14561469), with a thick carpet of grass in the centre. The interior of the monastery church is delightfully simple, with
a sweeping wooden roof and some fine stone furniture.
The Dominican monastery, like the Franciscan, holds an
important library and collection of art including a painting
of Dubrovnik before the great earthquake by local master
Nikola Božidarević that has been invaluable to historians in
reconstructing the look of the Old Town, as well as important works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano and Vlaho Bukovac
of neighbouring Cavtat. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:30,
11:00 and 19:00.QD‑2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. (+385-20) 32
22 00. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 30kn.
You don't have to travel far to experience the tranquillity of
island life: The island of Lokrum is a mere 15 minute boat
cruise. It's one of the best spots for a swim. The island's
shores are rocky, but the peace and the racket of crickets
are something else, there's a tiny saltwater lake which is
perfect for kids, and there's a naturist beach to the east of
the jetty. Thick pine forests have been complemented by
cultivated gardens first begun by Benedictine monks - the
monastery here was founded in the 11th century, apparently by grateful citizens after being spared from a great
fire in Dubrovnik. Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian Joseph built a summer house and formal gardens here,
and a botanical garden was founded in 1959 - Lokrum is
now a Nature Reserve. Lokrum's hills are topped by a star
shaped fort built by the French in 1806, from which you
have great views.QL‑3, tel. (+385-20) 42 72 42, www.
lokrum.hr. Boats leave every 30 or 60 minutes depending on the season, the amount of visitors and weather
therefore we suggest you contact the office for further
information. A return ticket costs 80kn per person, for
kids until the age of 15, 20kn.
When talking about finding your way around town, you'll
often hear people referring to Stradun, which you won't
see on any street signs. It's the unofficial name for the
main street Placa that joins the two main entrances to
the Old Town at Ploče in the east and Pile in the west. The
name comes from the Italian strada, meaning street. With
its shining limestone flags and the uniform baroque buildings that line it, it is itself one of the best known sights of
Dubrovnik. It's the place people bump into and chat with
friends on their daily business, and dress up for a stroll in
the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks the dividing line between the earliest settlement and the parts
of the city that followed. This first settlement was on the
land south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek
for rock, since it was originally an island. From the name
Laus came Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus
has probably been inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the
Summer 2016 51
Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives
4th century, it was colonised in the 7th century by GrecoRoman refugees from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later,
Slavs settled the land across the narrow, marshy channel this settlement was called Dubrava, from the Slav word for
“oak tree”. The channel was filled in during the 12th century, thus creating Stradun, and the two towns integrated
and began to build the city walls.QB/C‑2.
THE CHURCH OF ST BLAISE (CRKVA SV. VLAHA)
Named after the saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is perhaps the church most beloved of the city's people. Sitting
four square on Stradun, its stained glass windows by local artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at night make a wonderful
show. A church has stood on this spot since 1368, but following a fire, the present church (1717) was built in Baroque
style by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli, who was also
sculptor of the statue of St Blaise standing above the entrance to the church, protectively holding a scale model of
the Old Town in his hand. The church's front steps are the
setting for some of the most important events of the life of
the city, including New Year's Eve and the opening night of
the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, which always used to include a concert by legendary renaissance-pop group and
Eurovision contestants The Troubadours. Mass in foreign
languages can be arranged by appointment.QD‑3, Luža
3. Open 07:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00, Sunday 07:00 - 13:00.
August Open from 07:00 - 24:00. No admission.
52 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
THE CITY WALLS, BASTIONS AND PILE & PLOČE
GATES (GRADSKE ZIDINE, TVRĐAVE, GRADSKA
VRATA PILE, VRATA OD PLOČA)
Almost two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik's city walls are
among the best preserved and most attractive on this planet, and a walk along them is an absolute must. The defences
were built between the 8th and the 16th centuries. The fact
that on the land side they are almost 6m thick in places
shows their primary purpose as defence against attack
from the mountainous hinterland - the Ottoman Empire,
for example, lay just a few kilometers inland. The walls were
strengthened by myriad towers and bastions, and were
never breached - the Republic of Dubrovnik only fell after
Napoleon's armies were invited in on condition that they
would respect its independence. Two further fortresses,
Revelin to the east and Lovrijenac, on a headland just west
of the Old Town, provided additional strategic defence.
Revelin is a venue for concerts during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Lovrijenac is one of the most atmospheric venues of the festival, with traditional performances of Hamlet
taking place under the stars. Your ticket to the city walls
includes entrance to Lovrijenac, and it's well worth visiting.
It was for some time used as a prison, and is surrounded by
delightful parkland with some of the best views of the city,
a great picnic spot. The Minčeta fort, just north of the Pile
gate, with its stylized battlements, is one of the symbols of
the city, and St John's fortress houses the Maritime Museum
and Aquarium. Apart from the fortresses, each of which has
its own story and character, the Pile and Ploče gates are also
masterpieces. From these gates, you now access the Old
Town over stone bridges ending in drawbridges spanning
the moat, now filled with park benches and orange trees.
Above the gates you'll see reliefs of St Blaise, protector of
the city.Qtel. +385 (0)20 63 88 00/+385 (0)20 63 88 01,
hr. June - July Open 08:00-19:30. August - September
Open 08:00 - 18:30. Admission 30 - 120kn.
THE FRANCISCAN MONASTERY OF THE
FRIARS MINOR AND THE OLD PHARMACY
(FRANJEVAČKI SAMOSTAN I STARA APOTEKA
The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is an
absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old frescoes, and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden where
orange trees grow. The monastery is most famous for its
pharmacy, among the oldest in Europe and the oldest one
still working. The monastery houses a museum where you
can see original items from the pharmacy, plus an extensive
library with precious incunabula, manuscripts, a large collection of musical notations and a treasury of artworks. Outside the Church of the Little Brothers on Stradun you'll see
a lovely relief of the Pieta, and, on a lighter note, a gargoyle
below knee height. The trick is to stand on it facing the wall
- it's the test of a real man! Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 07:00,
09:30, 11:00 and 19:00.QD‑2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 14
10, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.malabraca.wix.com/
malabraca. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 15 - 30kn.
THE RECTOR’S PALACE (KNEŽEV DVOR)
One of the loveliest buildings in the city and the seat of the
Rector, the figurehead of the Republic elected within the
nobility, whose term lasted for just one month confining
him to these quarters which he could only leave on official
occasions and religious holidays. The building changed
its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder stored
here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to the
renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and Michelozzo Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations
were added in baroque style in the 17th century following
the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio
della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was
in gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is timelessly romantic. The palace's frontage has a delightful colonnade with choir style decorative stone benches. Inside,
a beautiful courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts.
The palace is now a Cultural History Museum where you
can view the richly appointed offices and quarters of the
Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom and prison cells. Artworks, costumes and domestic objects of the period are
all on display.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14
97, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Unified ticket
costing 100kn for adults, 80kn for groups (10+ persons)
and 25kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector's Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum
Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of
Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery. J
CHURCH AND CONVENT OF SIGURATA & MUSEUM OF SIGURATA CONVENT (SAMOSTAN I
To find this pink little baroque confection, you have to
enter what looks like someone’s garden off an intimate
side street. There was probably a church on this spot well
before its first mention in the 12th century. Franciscan
nuns established their convent here in the 13th century,
and the adjoining museum contains household objects
they used in order to support their order (e.g. needlework), as well as liturgical utensils and artworks, including two wax dolls of the baby Jesus (Bambino). At one
time, every Dubrovnik household had such a doll, which
was especially venerated at Christmas time.QB‑2, Od
Sigurate 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 67. Open on request
and by prior arrangement. July - August 31 Open
10:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Admission
15 - 20kn.
ST IGNATIUS’ CHURCH (CRKVA SV. IGNACIJA)
Part of a fine complex on an elevated square close to the
southern edge of the Old Town, the wonderfully ornate
Jesuit church of St Ignatius is approached via a romantic baroque staircase which is modelled on the Spanish
Steps in Rome (1738). The church itself was built between 1667 and 1725 by architect Andrea Pozzo, and like
most Jesuit churches of the period was modelled on the
Summer 2016 53
Gesù in Rome, the mother church of the Jesuits. Both the
stairway and the square in front of the church are used
as venues at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Despite the
somewhat run-down appearance of the adjoining college, an esteemed place of education, this is a particularly atmospheric spot in one of the oldest parts of the
city. By the end of September Mass in English is held on
Sundays at 11:00.QC‑4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 6, tel.
(+385-20) 32 35 00. Open 07:00 - 20:00.
THE CATHEDRAL (KATEDRALA)
The elegant pale grey Cathedral at rosy sundown exemplifies the frequently quoted phrase “city of stone and
light” (Jure Kaštelan). Its dome gracefully tops the skyline
whichever way you look at it, and its baroque forms are
one more chapter of the fairytale of the city streets. It
was thought that the Cathedral, built between 1672 and
1713 by Italian architects Andrea Buffalini and Paolo Andreotti, was built on the site of an earlier 12th century
Romanesque cathedral, destroyed in the great earthquake of 1667. However, following another earthquake
in 1979, excavations showed that there had, in fact, been
a Byzantine cathedral on this spot since the 7th or 8th
centuries. The light and lofty interior is most famous for
its collection of treasures, which includes reliquaries of
St Blaise. The golden caskets containing the saint’s head
and foot are thought to be the work of Byzantine masters of the 11th century. By the main altar is a painting of
the Assumption by Titian which features a self-portrait of
the artist. Mass: 07:30 and 18:00, Sun 09:00, 10:00, 18:00.
QD‑3/4, Držićeva poljana, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 59 Treasury/(+385-20) 32 34 96. Open 09:00 -16:00, Sun 11:30
- 16:00. Treasury admission 15 - 20kn.
A MASTER OF LIGHTNING
This year marks the 160th anniversary of the birth
of Nikola Tesla. Born July 10th, 1856 in the village of
Smiljan, Gospić, in what was then the Austrian Empire. His affinity for mathematics as well as an eidetic
memory led him to flourish in school. Although he
failed to graduate from university, Tesla eventually
moved to New York City in 1884 and was hired by
Thomas Edison, a relationship which could provide
tomes of anecdotes by itself. This summer, the first
ever Tesla Film Festival will be celebrating the life and
contributions of Nikola Tesla. The festival will feature
film and other works inspired by the inventor and will
be presented in cities around the globe. The Tesla Science Foundation will be present as well, awarding the
best in show films or other works made about Tesla.
The Festival will travel throughout the United States
and Europe.With a name now immortalised by his
contribution to the world, Nikola Tesla will certainly
be remembered as one of the greatest scientists the
human race has ever seen.
54 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
DUBROVNIK NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM
(PRIRODOSLOVNI MUZEJ DUBROVNIK)
The collection dates back to 1872 when the Museo Patrio
(Native Musem) was founded with a donation from the
Chamber of Trade and Crafts and the private collection of
pharmacist and ship-owner Antun Drobac. The collection
of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens may not appeal to everyone, but kids will probably love it and learn a lot too, and
the museum is not so big as to keep you on foot for hours.
Other rooms are used for temporary exhibitions.QC‑4,
Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88, ana.cucevic@
gmail.com, www.pmd.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00
- 14:00. Closed Sun. Unified ticket.
ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM RUPE (ETNOGRAFSKI
“Rupe” is named after the pits which were hewn out of
living rock in this granary, which was used for drying and
storing imported grain for the city’s people. Built in 1590,
this is a fascinating building in itself, and the exhibits showcase the economic, cultural and spiritual development of
Dubrovnik. The folk costumes and textiles give the best
flavour of the region where folk culture is still celebrated.
QB‑3, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, etnografski@
dumus.hr, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed
Tue. Unified ticket.
MARITIME MUSEUM (POMORSKI MUZEJ)
Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to the
growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s
most important museums. The display of models of the
fine galleons that were once built here is the stuff of fairy
tales - they, along with blueprints from the archives, were
used for building the replicas that you might glimpse in
the Gruž harbour today. Along with the Aquarium, the Museum is housed in the massive St John’s fortress on the old
harbour.QE‑4, St. John’s fortress (Tvrđava sv. Ivana), tel.
(+385-20) 32 39 04, email@example.com, www.dumus.
hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Unified ticket.
THE BIRTHPLACE OF MARIN DRŽIĆ (DOM MARINA DRŽIĆA)
This picturesque gothic town house is the place where
Marin Držić was born. Držić only became accepted as one
of the greats of Croatian literature after his death, as he was
a bit too much of a wild card. His many exploits included
sending a series of letters to the Medici family in Florence,
seeking their help in overthrowing the Dubrovnik government, convinced that it was run by elitist autocrats. He is
best loved for his satirical plays, and he is regarded as one of
the greats of European renaissance literature. His birthplace
has been transformed into an in situ exhibition of the playwright, whose comedies are regularly performed at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival.QB‑3, Široka 7, tel. (+385-20) 32
32 42/(+385-20) 32 32 96, firstname.lastname@example.org,
www.muzej-marindrzic.eu. Open 09:00 - 20:30. June September Open 09:00 - 22:00. Unified ticket. J
DUBROVNIK ART GALLERY (UMJETNIČKA
This 1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče is
the place to see an extensive collection of Croatian modern paintings and sculpture which encompasses almost all
important artists since the beginning of the 20th century.
QL‑5, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90, info@
ugdubrovnik.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 20:00. Closed Mon. Unified ticket.
OTOK GALLERY, ARL (GALERIJA OTOK, ARL)
A gallery in the Dubrovnik Lazaret - the former quarantine
houses - which now houses an artists' community, including
workshops and this gallery. Contemporary local art of an excellent standard.QL‑5, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 46
33, email@example.com. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Admission free.
THE DULČIĆ, MASLE, PULITIKA GALLERY/RONALD BROWN MEMORIAL HOUSE (GALERIJA
DULČIĆ, MASLE, PULITIKA/MEMORIJALNA
KUĆA RONALD BROWN)
This fine house next to the Rector's Palace is home to a gallery with some of the finest views in Europe - the windows
look out onto the Cathedral, rivalling the artworks inside. The
three painters that make up the gallery's title are famous for
painting local themes in eye-poppingly vivid style. Đuro
Pulitika's swirly, candy-coloured landscapes are a particular
joy, and it's a wonder that this little-frequented attraction
doesn't get a whole lot more visitors. The building was repaired and renovated by the US Government and serves as
a memorial to Secretary of Commerce Ronald Brown who
in 1996 died in a plane crash flying to Dubrovnik.QD‑3,
Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) 61 26 45, info@
ugdubrovnik.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 20:00. Closed Mon. Unified ticket.
THE SPONZA PALACE (PALAČA SPONZA)
For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik's buildings, with
its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic and renaissance
detail, this was always a public building. Directly facing Orlando's column, the scene of all dramas of public life, Sponza
housed the Republic's mint and customs house - all the Republic's trade passed through here. It was built 1516-1522
according to designs by Paskoje Miličević. Today, the graceful
atrium is used as an exhibition space and venue for recitals.
A room to the left as you enter is dedicated to the memory
of fallen soldiers during the siege of Dubrovnik 1991-92
(Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission free). The upper galleries
were once the place where the city's artists and intellectuals
held salons. The building also contains the Dubrovnik State
Archives, a treasure trove of documentation on the Republic.
In the gift shop on the ground floor you can buy replicas
of these historic documents; the archives themselves are
mainly here for research purposes.QD‑2, Svetog Dominika
1, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 32, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.dad.hr. Open
10:00 - 22:00. Admission 25kn.
Summer 2016 55
Completed in 1438, the fountain was once more ornate
with a massive cupola, but was damaged in the great
earthquake and never repaired. Onofrio's small fountain
is an elegant little masterpiece decorated with playful
dolphins that stands near the tower at the other end of
Stradun.QB‑2, D‑3, Poljana Paska Miličevića, Pred Dvorom.
Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Igor Brautović
WAR PHOTO LIMITED
A gallery dedicated to thought-provoking images of
war by leading photographers - essential for anyone interested in the nature of conflict or simply in stunning
- if sometimes disturbing - images.QC‑2, Antuninska 6,
tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, email@example.com, www.
warphotoltd.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 30 40kn.
It might be considered somewhat morbid that such an
infamous location is becoming more and more a tourist
attraction; the Boninovo Cliffs are known to the locals as
a popular (though we are loathe to use such a word as
‘popular' here) suicide spot. The fence, which guards passing pedestrians against unfortunate demise, is now populated by a myriad array of padlocks, left there by couples to
commemorate their very-much-alive love for each other.
The view from here, and from the nearby benches, is spectacular, and it is all too easy to while away an hour in the
dying heat of the day. It is bit a ten minute brisk walk from
the Pile Gate of the Old City. It is at once both a place of
reflection and sombre beauty. It's best appreciated either
at the height of the tourist influx (since they're all in the
Old City), or during the evening sunset, as life winds down
along the coastline.
DUBROVNIK AQUARIUM (AKVARIJ DUBROVNIK)
Located in St. John's Fortress, this underwater world is a
delight to visit. Wander around this tranquil atmosphere,
as you view a variety of Adriatic Sea flora and fauna.
The sea animals include eels, starfish, scorpion fish, seahorses and many more.QE‑3, Kneza Damjana Jude
12, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 78, www.imp-du.com/index.
php?action=akvarij_dubrovnik&lan=hr. Open 09:00
- 20:00. June Open 09:00 - 21:00. July - August Open
09:00 - 22:00. Admission 20 - 60kn.
56 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
DUBROVNIK CABLE CAR
The 778 meter journey gives you breathtaking views over
the Old City. The upper station has two panoramic terraces equipped with binocular telescopes, a snack bar,
a panoramic restaurant, a souvenir shop and more. The
lower station is at the beginning of King Petar Krešimir
Street (opposite the fire station) where tickets can be
bought, also in Restaurant Panorama at the top of Mount
Srđ, or in Restaurant Dubravka close to the Pile Gates
where you can pay in kuna or by credit card. From other
places (e.g. travel agencies and souvenir shops) tickets are
payable in euro.QL‑2, Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel. (+38520) 32 53 93, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.
dubrovnikcablecar.com. May Open 09:00 - 21:00. June
- August Open 09:00 - 24:00. Adults (round-trip 120kn,
one-way 70kn), Children under 12 (round-trip 50kn,
one-way 30kn), Children under 4 free.
ORLANDO’S COLUMN (ORLANDOV STUP)
In front of the Church of St Blaise stands a column with a
carving of Orlando (or Roland), nephew of Charlemagne
and legend of minstrel ballads embodying freedom and
nobility. The column was raised in 1418, and from that
date the flag of St Blaise flew here right until the end of
the Republic. Today you'll see the white Libertas flag symbolizing the city's enduring spirit of independence. This
spot was once the marketplace and to some extent still is
the political 'heart' of the city: it was the place where citizens were once summoned to hear state decrees and to
witness punishments. Orlando's right forearm was used
as the standard for the traditional Dubrovnik measure for
trading fabric - a Ragusan cubit or lakat (elbow) - you can
see the rather more convenient measure near the bottom
of the sculpture.QD‑2, Pred Dvorom.
There is a gorgeous view overlooking the Old Town, all
the way to Cavtat and the island of Lokrum, from this
phenomenal location next to the remains of the 14th
century St Orsula's Church. There is an amphitheatre here
that seats 350 and is set on a cliff, 200 metres above the
sea. It is a 25 minute walk from the Old Town or a short
ride by the No.10 bus. After the Ambient Croatia Association saved and renovated this location, Dubrovnik has
also gained a new summer stage for concerts of various
domestic and international musical performers, who will
play here throughout the summer.QMagistralni put 2,
THE CITY BELLTOWER (GRADSKI ZVONIK,
Look carefully at the bell in the tower that crowns the
east end of Stradun, and you'll notice the figures of two
men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn't
up to the task of making them out clearly, you can see
their two older brothers in the Sponza palace next door.
Their green colour is a result of their copper composition
rather than their roots on Mars. They are affectionately
known as zelenci - 'the green ones' - or, individually, Maro
and Baro, the descendents of the two original wooden
figures. The bell is the only original part of the tower an older one dating back to 1444 was destroyed and rebuilt in 1928. The bell weighs two tonnes and was cast
by a master craftsman famed far and wide for casting
bells and cannons: Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John the
Baptist of Rab Island. The tower's clock with its sunburst
centerpoint is rather lovely in its simplicity.QD‑3, Pred
GUNDULIĆ SQUARE (GUNDULIĆEVA POLJANA)
This square is named after the long-haired chappie standing in the centre - one Ivan Gundulić, a Dubrovnik statesman and Baroque poet whose verse set the standard for
literary Croatian which is still accepted today. The statue to
him was erected in 1893. Gundulić's poems were hymns to
his home city and the struggles of the Slav nations against
rival powers. The square bordered by elegant shops, restaurants and homes is the Old Town's fruit market in the
ONOFRIO’S FOUNTAINS – GREAT AND SMALL
(VELIKA I MALA ONOFRIJEVA FONTANA)
One of the first spectacular sights that greets you when
you enter Stradun from the Pile Gate is the Great Onofrio
Fountain, with its huge central dome and sixteen water taps all around. A ledge and steps around the water
trough provide a perfect resting spot for tired sightseers.
The fountain is the end point of the aqueduct that architects Onofrio dell Cava and Andriuzzi de Bulbilo built from
a source near the river, almost 12km away, one of the first
aqueducts to be built on the territories of today's Croatia.
Summer 2016 57
Paths of Salt
THE CITY HALL AND MARIN DRŽIĆ THEATRE
(VIJEĆNICA I KAZALIŠTE MARINA DRŽIĆA)
South of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun
begins a remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the old
Arsenal, with three (originally four) huge arches facing
seawards. Here, galleons would be brought into dry dock
for repair. (Now, it's a place to bring hungry stomachs for
refilling, and for lubricating throats). The city coffee house
is a grand café with seating overlooking St Blaise's Church.
Next door are the chambers of the city council, followed
by the Marin Držić Theatre. The buildings are fronted by
steps and balustrades - it's a fine sight to see the theatregoers and orchestra's musicians gathered there on a warm
evening.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 1. Open 9:00 - 12:00, 18:00
THE CITY HARBOUR (GRADSKA LUKA)
Dubrovnik owes its very existence to shipping. There is
evidence that the lands here were first colonised by Illyrian
tribes in the 4th century, probably attracted by the security offered by the island which lay where the southern half
of the Old Town now stands, and by the natural lie of the
land with Mount Srđ standing guard. It lay at a natural resting point on the maritime trade routes that existed even
before the Roman Empire. After the Slavs settled here
and began fortifying the city in the 13th century, owing
to good diplomatic ties with powers such as Turkey and
Venice, Dubrovnik began to establish a healthy shipping
trade. Two harbours were built in rocky, protected coves:
a main one near the Ploče gates and a smaller one on the
Pile side. Through trade, Dubrovnik grew wealthy and rose
to rival that other maritime city state, Venice. During the
city's golden age in the 16th century, the merchant navy
numbered around 200 ships. Shipbuilding was a highly
important industry, and the Dubrovnik Karaka, a beautiful
galleon, was well known as being of exceptional quality
as it was made of durable Lebanese Cedar. You can see a
replica in Gruž harbour in the evenings. The sheltered harbour at Ploče has a wonderful atmosphere, and is now the
spot for embarking on a boat tour, for buying local textiles
from the local ladies sewing in the shade, or for enjoying a
THE LAZARET (LAZARETI)
Just past the Ploče gates is a row of adjoining stone buildings with gates guarding the courtyards. This was the Dubrovnik lazaret - quarantine houses for travellers in times
of plague. Since these buildings were usually destroyed
when the need for them passed, Dubrovnik's lazaret is
one of the last remaining in Europe. The rather impressive stone buildings now house artists' workshops and a
humanitarian organisation, and are the venue for concerts
and DJ parties.QL‑2, Frana Supila bb.
Join the conversation with IYP
58 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Solana Nin Archives
As Croatia is positioned along the Adriatic Coast, it has developed
and maintained a significant role in the production of salt for
centuries on end, and when you take into consideration that
man first discovered salt 10,000 BCE, this natural mineral has
become part and parcel of life, has fed and nurtured civilisations,
and will continue to do so.
Looking back, salt has always been deeply rooted in human
culture: Roman soldiers received salt as a reward; Egyptians used
salt for mummification; the Greeks often exchanged slaves for
salt and used it in certain rituals, whilst the Japanese would
sprinkle salt around the house to drive away evil spirits. Salt became a treasured and highly sought after ingredient, it brought
colonial power; it led to wars and was one of the first sources
of trade particularly throughout the Middle Ages where it was
deemed ‘as precious as gold’.
So what is salt? Why is it so valuable? And how can we use it?
Firstly, salt is a natural mineral made up of white cube-shaped
crystals primarily composed of two elements, sodium and
chloride. It is translucent, colourless, and has a distinctive and
The majority of people think of salt as simply a white granular
food seasoning. In fact, only 6% of all salt manufacturing goes
into food. It is said that we use salt in more than 14,000 different ways from the making of products as varied as plastic,
paper, glass, aluminium, and rubber, to household bleach, soaps,
detergents, and dyes. We use salt for medicinal purposes, for
preserving food, cleaning and polishing, gardening, skin treatment, personal care, hygiene, and more!
Salt is essential for human life and the body cannot produce
neither sodium nor chloride itself, so we need to add a pinch
of salt into our daily diets. It helps maintain chemical balance in
our muscles and nervous system and it is said that 5 to 6 grams
of salt per day, for an average adult, goes a long way.
Historically, in terms of salt in Croatia, the oldest known document comes from the year 542 CE and is linked to the former
Brijuni Saltworks. The Pag Saltworks were mentioned in the 9th
century and the year 1018 CE saw the beginning of a long struggle between the Croatian town of Zadar, and Venetians who
took much of Dalmatia under their control, and singlehandedly
decided on the fate of Croatian Saltpans.
Foreign rule often meant survival with trade an essential element. Towns either flourished or perished; the latter due to lack
of produce causing unemployment, migration, and economic
instability as is witnessed in this day and age. Put simply, where
there is salt there is work, there is life, and there is survival. And
to survive people need to earn money, a salary; and the word
‘salary’happens to derive from the word‘salt’. Nowadays, some of
Croatia’s best saltworks are the bread and butter of a town, where
almost every family has a type of affiliation to the company,
some of which go back generations. Stories are told and traditions are kept. At present, a combination of old salt production
methods are still used and combined with modern technology.
And now there is tourism where saltworks are an attraction, a
sight to see and interest is aplenty. Some of Croatia’s exemplary
Solana Nin has shared a turbulent history; from Roman emperors who would use salt from Nin at feasts in juxtaposition to the
Venetians who shut down the Solana as it was competition to
their rival salt pans. Today, a Roman gate still stands as testimony
to the age of the salt pans and it is positive to note that salt
production is in full swing these days; 55 hectares is used and
is positioned between five Croatian national parks, indicating
the Eco Certified purity and unspoiled natural surroundings of
the area. The Solana also has a historical Museum and souvenir
shop where you can buy the highly sought ‘Salt Flower’.
Solana Ston dates back to Roman times, 2000 BCE. Its geographical position and fertile fields have always been abundant
in water and salt, and when under the rule of the Dubrovnik
Republic, its leadership built monumental walls in the 14th and
15th centuries to safeguard the cities of Ston and Mali Ston.
This entire area known as the ‘Pelješac peninsula’ was rebuilt
and protected from possible attacks in order to preserve the
maximum value of its salt pans which brought so much wealth
to the Republic’s economy.
Solana Pag dates as far back as 999 CE and produces two thirds
of Croatia’s total salt production. The shallow waters of the closed
Pag Bay brings perfect conditions for salt production, allowing
sea salt to be drained into small clay saltpans that set the landscape of the bay today. The Solana has a permanent exhibition
portraying the process of salt production (past and present),
ancient tools, a salt mill, transport, and film projections.
It is clear that nature has blessed the Adriatic Coast with so much
beauty, and these days guided tours are on offer which bring
to life the entire process of salt production, the history of each
seaside town, the tools and methods used, and the utter importance of maintaining life in such rural areas. Voluntary work is
possible where one can get a true feel for life on the salt pans; as
well as museums and galleries, souvenir shops, interactive presentations, summer camps and more. We recommend you create
some memories, with a pinch of salt to help spice up your stay!
Summer 2016 59
Maps & Index
Maps & Index
60 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Dr. A. Šercera
Dr. V. Mačeka
Gorica Sv. Vlaha
Između tri crkve
Kneza Damjana Jude
Summer 2016 61
Maps & Index
62 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Obala S. Radića
Maps & Index
Od Greba Žudioskih
Od Sv. Mihajla
P. Krešimira IV
Placa – Stradun
Poljana Mrtvo zvono
Poljana Marina Držića
Poljana Paska Miličevića
Poljana Ruđera Boškovića C-4
Put od Bosanke
Šetalište kralja Zvonimira G/H-2
Šetalište Nike i Meda Pucića F-2
Summer 2016 63
The strategic importance of Slano is firmly entrenched in
history, as the site has been continuously inhabited since
prehistoric times. Ancient Greek and Roman ruins dot the
heavily forested hills and centuries-old olive groves of the
picturesque bay. The Dubrovnik Republic annexed Slano
in the 14th century and shortly thereafter it became the
seat of the Republic’s Rector and a summer retreat for the
wealthy and influential citizens of the powerful city-state.
The Franciscan church of St. Jerome, overlooking the bay,
is one of the finest examples of 15th century ecclesiastical
architecture in Dalmatia.
If we take our cues from the great civilizations which have
called the bay home since ancient times, Slano enjoys not
only some of the most breathtaking sites in Dalmatia, but is
also a perfect place for a sightseeing getaway. Along with
its unmistakable charms and proximity to Dubrovnik, the
vineyards and seafood of Pelješac, and the Elaphiti Islands,
Slano is a must-see.
Dubrovnik - Neretva County Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Boris Kragić
NORTH OF DUBROVNIK
The Dubrovnik/Neretva County consists of both continental areas and islands. North of Dubrovnik, you can enjoy the
natural beauty and peace of ‘Trsteno' which is home to the
oldest arboretum in the world, dating back to 1498.
The Pelješac peninsula, the second largest peninsula in
Croatia, is famous for many reasons especially for those associated with the sense of taste and smell. Therefore, when
in the area, make sure you don't miss out on the infamous
Pelješac oysters and wines amidst the intense beauty of the
If you’re on the edge of your nerves and even a stay in Dubrovnik brings no respite to your soul, it’s time to go green,
get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree hugging
at Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally overworked who will
be delighted by this historic arboretum - of course, for gardeners and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The centerpiece is
a summer villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Marinov Gučetić in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth into
a sprawling and luxurious home, he built a more modest
abode and surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit
could soar. More than one hundred years later, his descendant Nikola Vitov Gučetić composed humanist philosophical
Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided
by local sea captains who came home from their travels
bearing gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries, many
people have invested their energy and soul into these gardens. A sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates
- don’t miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone
66 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once shared by
the local community. A little path leads from the villa to the
sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offers a view
encapsulating the true meaning of this place - botanical
splendour on the lush, island-strewn Adriatic. In this part
of the garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arboretum - a palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably
The arboretum includes the original 15th century garden
laid out in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of
paths, a chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also
a newer garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and
modern sections, with features typical of the southern
Adriatic, plus a historic olive grove and natural woodland.
Trsteno suffered quite badly both from shelling and from a
forest fire which broke out in 2000, but Mother Nature has
taken over and it’s clearly business as usual. A walk amid the
beautiful, tall trees offers welcome dappled shade and the
chance to enjoy the harmony of man and nature.
The village of Trsteno is a modest little settlement with a
fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 year old Asiatic
plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a
remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a
stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical.
Slano, a small town located between Trsteno and the
Pelješac peninsula, is among the most beautiful jewels in
the crown of the Dubrovnik Riviera. Set back 2 kilometres
from the open blue waters of the Adriatic in a bay of the
same name, Slano offers protection from the elements for
wayward sailors, while the numerous tree-lined pristine
beaches are ideal for landlubbers.
SLANO TOURIST BOARD
QTrg Ruđera Boškovića 1, Slano, tel. (+385-20) 87 12 36,
email@example.com, www.visit-slano.com. Open
08:00 - 20:00. Sun 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00.
The Pelješac peninsula is so tenuously connected with the
mainland that it has the unique character of an island. The first
delight that awaits you is the gastronomic haven of Mali Ston.
The narrow lagoon dividing Pelješac from the mainland is rich
in premium quality oysters, and the village restaurants offer
some of the best cuisine in the country.
Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled by 14th century stone
walls, 5.5km long and once including forty towers, which with
the backdrop of the mountainous countryside look scarily like
the Great Wall of China. These walls were built by the Republic
of Dubrovnik due to valuable salt pans and the town’s strategic position, and Ston is often called “little Dubrovnik” as the
streets have the same layout and the same names. The historic
salt pans still produce salt for industrial purposes. If you’d like
to have an active holiday with a difference, you can join in salt
harvesting, board and victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr.
The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacular
conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac Mali
grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the village of
Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality. Dingač is
an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong, and was the first
Croatian wine to gain protected geographic origin (1961). It’ll
cost you about €10 a bottle, but to enjoy the Pelješac experience to the full, we recommend you try it. Postup is another
Pelješac wine often called “Dingač’s baby brother”, while Plavac
is softer, more affordable and very quaffable.
On Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, untouched
by modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed by steep slopes,
THE WALLS OF STON
In an area known for its rugged natural beauty, few
man-made sights are more magnificent than the grizzled fourteenth-century walls of Ston. For many years
only a tiny stretch of this 5.5km-long line of fortifications
was accessible to the public, but after a long period of
renovation a significant circuit of wall was ceremonially
opened to the public in October 2009. Visitors can now
scramble around the ring of bastions that surrounds the
town of Ston itself, enjoying fantastic views of the surrounding countryside.
The walls date back to 1334, when the Republic of Dubrovnik gained Ston and the neighbouring Pelješac
peninsula, and immediately set about securing it against
potential Venetian or Ottoman attack. The area was well
worth the investment: the salt pans of Ston went on to
become a key source of Dubrovnik’s revenue, and helped
to keep the republic’s fleet on the seas.
Spanning the isthmus that connects the Pelješac peninsula to the mainland, and consisting of 40 towers
and 5 fortresses, the walls comprise one of the longest
stretches of surviving fortifications in the whole of Europe. Local sources reckon it to be the second longest
stretch in the world after the Great Wall of China, although this eye-popping claim was probably intended
as an attention-grabbing ruse by PR-conscious tourist
officials. In the event, we feel obliged to report that a few
idle seconds of web-surfing revealed that Kumbhalgarh
in India boasts 36km of surviving wall - although we
didn’t bother investigating any further.
THE WALLS OF STON
QGundulićeva poljana 2, tel. (+385-20) 63 88 00/
(+385-20) 63 88 01, firstname.lastname@example.org,
www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 18:30.
June - July Open 08:00 - 19:30. August Open 08:00 18:30. Tickets 20 - 40kn.
their shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is famous for pristine shingle beaches, and on the southern side a bracing wind makes
this a favorite spot for windsurfers, especially at Viganj. Orebić
is the largest resort, its architecture reflecting its links with the
Republic of Dubrovnik, and has fantastic stretches of shingle to
the east of town. A ferry connects Orebić with Korčula town,
and Trstenik to Polače on Mljet - ideal for island hopping.
The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take time
to slowly discover and drink in its delights - a week will hardly
be long enough.
OREBIĆ TOURIST BOARD
QZrinsko Frankopanska 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71 37 18,
Open 08:00 - 18:00. Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. June
Open 08:00 - 20:00. July - August Open 08:00 - 22:00.
Summer 2016 67
STON TOURIST BOARD
QPelješki put bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 52, tzston@
du.t-com.hr, www.ston.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 19:00. Closed Sun. June - September Open 08:00 - 19:00.
If you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised
to see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you
walk. Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often
ignored, inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have
to part with good money for them back home. Obviously,
the warm climate gives the people of the Dubrovnik region
these southern fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the
It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rushing green and
impetuous under the famous stone bridge at Mostar, upriver in Herzegovina. In Croatia, it spreads out open arms
to meet the sea, creating a swampy region. Generations of
backbreaking work mean that this area today is a fertile region sometimes called Croatia’s California.
As you drive north to Metković, you can stop at roadside
stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins, local honey and spirits. It is also sometimes called Croatia’s Venice, as the life of
the people is closely tied up with boats, used for transporting pretty much everything around here.
The region has its own types of wooden boat; a smaller
kind called a trupa, and a larger one called a lađa. Although these traditional boats largely died out, in recent
years an annual race (Maraton lađa, August 13 ) which attracts competing teams from around the world looks set to
revive the picturesque tradition - the boats have a curiously
flattish construction which is very attractive but definitely
renders their navigation a challenge!
More curious still is the water life of the valley. The traditional dishes of the area are often centered around two
aquatic inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made
into a tomato casserole called brudet - you can try it in the
THE SIVI SOKO VIEWPOINT
Return home by bragging to friends some of the best
photos you had taken around Dubrovnik. Pick up your
camera and GO GO GO! Jump onto the old road, the
so called ‘Jadranska magistrala’ towards the Čilipi Airport and exit at the town called Zvekovica, turning left
onto a local road. After 1km, turn left and head up the
Snježnica Hill until you see the sign for Velji Do to the
left. This is your last turn before the main post. A narrow path will then take you to the ‘lookout’ itself from
which you will have breathtaking views of Dubrovnik,
Konavle, Cavtat and the neighboring islands. From
here it is all yours; capture the photo and those special
68 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
popular restaurant Villa Neretva at the town of Metković,
where accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris
are also offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly
storks and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game.
Near the town of Ploče you can see the Baćina lakes from
the main road - a spectacular chain of seven interconnecting freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beautifully clean and have beaches suitable for swimming. It is
hoped that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in
the near future.
METKOVIĆ TOURIST BOARD
QAnte Starčevića 3, Metković, email@example.com, www.
tzmetkovic.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
SOUTH OF DUBROVNIK
South of Dubrovnik and following the coastal road you will
find yourself in Župa Dubrovačka, where there are a handful of bays that have a promenade which passes through
small romantic places such as Srebreno and Mlini.
If you continue further south, you will find yourself in a vortex of history. The small town of Cavtat will enchant you
with its architecture, nature and charm. Historically known
as Epidaurum, it used to be a key part of Dubrovnik's history
and development of the city, which the citizens of Cavtat
From Cavtat to the border with Montenegro stretches the
Konavle municipality which was named after the Latin
word 'canalis', referring to water channels that used to bring
water from water-wells across Konavle Fields to the ancient
city of Epidaurum (present-day Cavtat).
The road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a broad
bay dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to be found
on the Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are probably the
reason why the village of Srebreno was given its name,
which means “Silver”. The water here is that perfect aquamarine colour so beloved of the holiday brochures. The
town of Mlini is named after the water mills that you can
still see here, driven by streams that race down the mountainside and emerge right on the beach, bringing the sea
to a temperature that could be named “refreshing” or “freezing” depending on the hardiness of the swimmer in question.
These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons being that this part of the coast was occupied by the Yugoslav
army during the early 90s. The village of Kupari is all but
devastated, as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal situation for the local people, with a once thriving industry lying
dormant and some fine old buildings on the waterfront
empty and pockmarked by bullets, but renovation is presently going on and things will get better.
We highly recommend these resorts for the following
reasons. The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!)
There is plenty of excellent accommodation in private
apartments, and prices are more than reasonable. With Dubrovnik just 20 minutes away by bus, this is a great place to
stay if you’re on a budget and appreciate a quieter environment and clean beaches.
Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you’ll
find necessities such as the tourist information centre,
banks, the post office and a large supermarket.
Mlini’s waterfront is possibly the most unusual we’ve ever
seen: a picturesque village aspect is created by a stream,
a watermill and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752
right on the beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel complex with little villas nestled in leafy shade.
Dubrovnik - Neretva County Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Andrija Carli
ŽUPA DUBROVAČKA TOURIST BOARD
QŠetalište Dr.F.Tuđmana 7, Srebreno, Mlini, tel. (+38520) 48 62 54, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.
dubrovnik-riviera.hr. May - June Open 07:30 - 14:30, Sat
08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. July - August Open 08:00 19:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.
The Konavle region stretches from Cavtat to the border with
Montenegro. The village of Čilipi close to the airport is one
of the cultural centres of Konavle, and on Sunday mornings you can witness the traditional songs and dances of
Konavle and performers dressed in colourful folk costume.
Konavle consists of a fertile valley plus upland and coastal
parts, all with stone villages. In the central valley, you’ll find
traditional rural restaurants where you can enjoy delicious
home grown food - locally reared meat and trout, sometimes served by waiters and waitresses in traditional costume (see our “Where to eat” pages). If you come in spring,
you can try dishes made with wild asparagus and see almond orchards in bloom. The upland section borders with
Herzegovina, for centuries the dividing line with the Ottoman Empire. Its highest point is the Snježnica (“snowy”)
peak, 1234m high. The village cemetery at Brotnice has
unusual gravestones (stećci) of the Bogomil sect, featuring
vivid primitive carvings and lettering in the ancient language of Bosnia. There are well-marked hiking trails, and
organised trips include a hearty meal as part of the deal.
The coastal part of Konavle is unusual for Croatia in that it
is characterised by limestone cliffs. At the village of Močići
there is a second century stone carving of the pagan god
Mitreus, and scattered around are old houses with unusual
conical chimneys. Molunat, the most southern coastal settlement, is a quiet fishing village in a pretty cove.
Dubrovnik - Neretva County Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Andrija Carli
Dubrovnik - Neretva County Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Andrija Carli
Mills on the river Ljuta
The protected landscape surrounding the Ljuta is home to
a watermill and stamp system, which consists of eight flour
mills, two oil mills, and three stamp mills. Part of this system,
called the ‘lower mills’, was built after 1550, when Konvale
came to be under the control of the Republic of Dubrovnik.
The lower mills have been preserved until today. The mills
were built on a canal network, while some of them were
driven by three aqueducts. Most of the mills were on the
Summer 2016 69
The approach to this little gem of a Mediterranean town is
one of the most breathtaking things about it, as the campaniles of its churches poke their way into view above a
canopy of lush trees. But that’s not all - this was the ancient
settlement of Epidaurum whose inhabitants populated
Dubrovnik. A pleasant promenade fringes the rambling old
streets, edged by cafés, a couple of good places to drink, a
selection of good restaurants and a rather lovely two small
hotels. The promenade leads to the pleasant town beach,
a park and a cemetery with an imposing mausoleum by
sculptor Ivan Meštrović as its centrepiece. A little way out
of town are several large hotels which are good choices for
families, with good shingle beaches and occasionally allinclusive packages. But we certainly wouldn’t recommend
imprisoning yourself in a modern hotel complex when
you can indulge in the delights of a meal in a traditional
konoba in the town, and the rural Konavle region, famous
for its traditional style gastronomy and folklore is on your
Dubrovnik - Neretva County Tourist Board Archives
Dubrovnik - Neretva County Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Renco Kosinožić
western bank of the river, apart from the Đivanović stamp
mill which was on the eastern bank. The mill system was
extremely important for the economy of Konavle and the
Dubrovnik Republic as a whole.
Kids these days will say ‘hey, this reminds me of a fortress in
World of Warcraft’, and they are not far off. Enter an ancient
fort located in Konvale and up on a 25 meter high cliff, it
dates back to 1420 and was most likely used for military
purposes. After long renovations, it’s open to the public and
also maintains some archaeological items including Bronze
Age weapons for the feisty!QDunave, Konavle, www.
citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00. June - October Open 10:00 - 19:00. Tickets 25 - 40kn.
70 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
A highlight of a trip to Cavtat is the Bukovac house (Open
09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Admission 20kn), where one of
the best-loved Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922)
grew up. As a child, he painted murals on the interior walls
of the lovely old villa, bringing them alive with colourful
paintings featuring semi-naive animal themes. Although
subsequent owners saw fit to paint over his works, they
have been restored with some success, and the delightful
exhibition space upstairs features paintings and sketches
surrounded by original furniture from Bukovac’s day. Bukovac’s portraits are especially personal and full of emotion.
An exhibition space on the ground floor is given over to the
work of young artists, and the shows feature contemporary
works, a refreshing contrast with the antique mood of the
rest of the house. There’s an idyllic garden at the back, and
the whole experience is a rather uplifting one.
natural assets on the eastern front, the island of Mljet is full
of flora and fauna, fascinating history and wild adventure
offers.The islands in general have a completely different
atmosphere from mainland towns making their way of life
all the more special.
THE ELAFITI ISLANDS KOLOČEP, LOPUD AND ŠIPAN
These tiny islands - the first two car-free - are fantastic
places to stay: you have all the sights of Dubrovnik on your
doorstep but get to enjoy the peace and cleanliness of island life, and accommodation is inexpensive. The journey
by boat costs just a couple of Euro so you can travel every
day and explore if you want, just like on a bus, but a million
times more refreshing!
Koločep and Lopud are tiny - you can walk all around
them quite comfortably. Their settlements (Koločep has
two, Lopud just one) show in miniaturised form the architectural elegance of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as the
city’s shipowners built their summer residences here. Thus
you have fine stone villas, some of which are now super
family-run hotels. Lopud is perhaps the prettiest of the
Elafiti islands, and during the golden age of Dubrovnik
there were thirty churches on less than 5km2 of island.
(Many churches and palaces on all the islands now lie in
ruins, but they’re
still interesting to chance across on your wanders). Lopud
village has a well-planted old park with stone balustrades
and statuary framing the sea. Lopud and Koločep have
true sandy beaches, very shallow ones, perfect for children
and the popular local ball game picigin. Most of Lopud’s
Šunj beach is given up to sun loungers for hire, but there
is a naturist section to one side, and, according to a local
legend,if you bathe with your loved one from Šunj, you’ll
Šipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands with two little
ports, Suđurađ (“soojooraj”) and Šipanska luka, plus a few
tiny hamlets in the interior. A bus connects the ports, taking a trip through a fertile depression where the islanders
successfully grow a variety of produce including grapes,
olives, figs and carob. Both settlements boast fascinating
old palaces and the ruins in the interior include the former
palace of the Dubrovnik bishops. Suđurađ faces Lopud,
and this is a place for a swim and a coffee; while Šipanska
luka has a couple of excellent restaurants.
Despite their tiny scale and the fact that you can still find
your own little Robinson Crusoe beach, these three islands
aren’t really off the beaten track - there are several hotels
used by tour operators and you’ll find a healthy number
of tourists, particularly on Lopud. These islands are great
if you need a relaxing break away from it all, and don’t expect wild nightlife or a heap of facilities laid on.
TOURIST BOARD OF KONAVLE
QZidine 6, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 90 25, marketing@
tzcavtat-konavle.hr, visit.cavtat-konavle.com. Open
08:00-19:00, Sun 08:00-14:0. June Open 08:00 - 20:00.
July - August Open 08:00 - 21:00.
The Elaphite archipelago consists of 13 islands and islets, of
which only three are inhabited. Robinson Crusoe will get
a run for his money here as the nature and culture on the
islands are next to perfection; the peace and tranquillity,
The island sitting high north of the Dubrovnik/Neretva
County is Korčula which is filled with its rich culture, historical remains and natural surroundings. The town of Korčula
is also known as 'Little Dubrovnik' because of the walls that
surround it. The island of Lastovo is the second most forested island in the Adriatic earning it the title of a Nature Park.
With a National Park on the western front to a reserve of
Summer 2016 71
Babino Polje The central and largest inhabited area with
around 350 people, Babino Polje is the administrative
centre of the island. Stretched along a ridge above a bypass road and a field (the name means “Grandma’s Field”),
Babino Polje is surrounded with pine woods, groves of old,
twisted olive trees and vineyards, and 514m Veliki Grad,
the highest hill on the island.
Mljet Tourist Board Archives
Mljet gets a growing share of tourists, but as one of the
more remote and less developed islands, with a limited
ferry service, it lacks the kind of mass tourism of much
of the Dalmatian coast and some other more accessible
islands. This isn’t the place to come for late night bars, concerts or discos. One might hope it never will be.
Be prepared to fall in love with nature all over again, for
this island has a stunning quality waiting for you to discover. Croatia’s 8th largest island is approximately 3km wide
and 37km long making attractive to explore for a short
or lengthier stop. It has an area of roughly 100 square km
with 131km of coastline and many little niches and coves
to discover, so you’d be forgiven for wanting to stay. With
five distinct forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush
vegetation, it’s easy to see why Mljet is called the “Green
Island.” Mljet offers a panorama of coastline, cliffs, reefs
and numerous islets as well as the rich topography of the
hills that rise steeply above the sea and plummet back into
deep valleys sheltering ancient stone villages. The submarine world includes quite an array of fish and several
types of corals. With fantastic weather, sailing, recreational
sports, swimming, scuba diving, hiking and bicycle paths
are only a fraction of the pleasures that you can enjoy here.
The western end of Mljet has been protected as a National
Park since 1960.
GETTING THERE AND AROUND
Two ferry types are available to/from Dubrovnik, a car
ferry and a catamaran mostly provided by Jadrolinija ferries. Mljet is only 8km away from the peninsula of Pelješac,
18km from Korčula and 30km from Dubrovnik. There are
a number of harbour ports in Mljet. Polače is its largest
and main port of call in the north, however, you can also
access the island from Sobra which is best used to reach
Maranovići and Babino Polje. Other harbours include Pomena which has daily connections to Dubrovnik (watch out
for reefs and shallow water), and Lokve or Gonoturska port
where you can throw anchor just before the entry canal
toward the Big Lake.
72 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
WHAT TO SEE
Mljet National Park (Nacionalni Park Mljet) Pristanište
2, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 40 41, email@example.com, www.np-mljet.hr. Established in 1960, the park
is Mljet’s top attraction. The park, encompasses 54 square
kilometres at the western end of the island, with an astonishing interior and coastline beauty. Veliko Jezero and Malo
Jezero (Big Lake and Small Lake), and the villages of Soline,
Babine Kuće, Pomena, Polače and Goveđari all lie within the
park boundaries. Of interest, this park represents the first institutionalised attempt to protect the native eco-system in
Benedictine Monastery on the islet of St Mary (Samostan Sv Marija) This tiny island, in a lake on the island of Mljet,
is at the island’s cultural and spiritual heart.
Odysseus’ Cave (Odisejeva Špilja) Technically that
would be Calypso’s cave; Odysseus, shipwrecked on
his way home from the Trojan War, only stayed with the
nymph seven years, and most of the time he was pining for his wife and his home. After walking along a path
lined with rock walls and wildflowers, which takes you out
above a deep grotto
and the crashing waves, you may wonder why he was in
such a hurry to leave. You can pick your way down into
the cave; come back another day by boat to squeeze into
it through a 30m tunnel. Local fishermen use the grotto
as a harbour.
Prožura This medieval village was used by Ragusan nobles who - a bit like yourself - were looking for relaxing
getaway. Perched on a hill over a Blato (an intermittent
lake) and the sea, Prožura has a 17th Century watch tower
and three beautiful churches: the Church of the Holy Trinity, the Church of St Martin and the Church of St Rocco.
Maranovići The 18th Century Baroque house of the Peš
family is in the middle of the town. The 19th Century parish church of St Anton rests on the foundations of an older
church and features Gothic architectural elements.
In nearby Korita, the ruined 14th Century Church of St
Mary of the Hill mixes Gothic and Renaissance elements,
and demonstrates features typical of the island’s churches.
A roughly square plan with a deep porch extending to the
front, and a picturesque belfry “na preslicu” (“on a distaff,”
that is, the belfry has a split where the bell hangs, the way
a distaff’s end is cleft to hold wool). Some of the manor
houses have Renaissance-Baroque elements. The town has
its own 17th Century defence tower with loopholes for firing. Korita is named for the stone troughs, common on the
island, that are used to capture rainwater.
MLJET TOURIST BOARD
Around the side of the cafe at the ferry pier.QSobra bb,
Sobra, tel. (+385-20) 74 60 25, firstname.lastname@example.org,
www.mljet.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
June - September Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 13:00.
MLJET TOURIST BOARD, POLAČE OFFICE
QPolače bb, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 41 86,
email@example.com, www.mljet.hr. Open 08:00 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. June - September Open 08:00
- 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.
Polače The village is named for the ruin of a significant Roman palace and fortifications - one tower is 20m high - built
between the 2nd and the 5th century. Second in size to the
Palace of Diocletian in Split, you can’t miss it: The road to
Pomena slips right between its high walls.
Pomena Located on the western coast of Mljet in the National Park, about 200 m from Malo Jezero. This village,
built after World War II, has only about 50 inhabitants living
among charming thick forests and working in agriculture,
fishing and tourism. The bay of Pomena is perfect for small
yachts, which can pull up to the pier while you enjoy the
Goveđari Settlement began here in the late 18th Century
when two families of land workers and fishermen from Babino Polje were given permission to settle by the Benedictines
to work as cattle-breeders (goveda means cattle in Croatian).
Located in the national park, 5km inland, this ethnologically
interesting site is a great place to be surrounded by peace,
serenity and lush vegetation.
Babine Kuće This picturesque little fishing village is located
on the shores of the Veliko jezero just beneath Goveđari. It
offers a splendid view of the islet of St Mary. There are a number of private rentals here, too.
Summer 2016 73
K orčula, birthplace of the renowned traveller, Marco Polo, is
a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by the
clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel.
Korčula town, alongside Dubrovnik, is one of the Adriatic
towns which hits the news from time to time with reports
of rich, famous and notable types who buy up old town
properties for heart-stopping sums. There is good reason
for this - the tiny, almost circular old town occupying a rocky
promontory is one of the most perfectly preserved and
most romantic historic towns you'll ever see with many opportunities for shutterbugs. It doesn't take long to wander
through the atmospheric streets, where you'll come across
gothic details and balconies that make you feel like you've
entered a Slavic version of Romeo and Juliet. Pay attention to
the hidden architectural delights, such as relief figures on the
Cathedral of St. Mark and, as rumor has it, the interestingly
sculpted menu of an old brothel near the main entrance.
Visit the town museum and the local galleries within a casual
Lastovo Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Stjepan Tafra
Many of the historical sights and landmarks are just a stone
throw from the main square and you'll be bedazzled by the
amount of history and culture that surrounds you. Take for
instance the Tower of Marco Polo, believed to be the house
in which the great world traveller and writer was born, whilst
there head up to the tower for some breathtaking panoramic views of the island. There is also a Marco Polo Museum
which reflects on his life through seven vast and deep scenes
which bring to life his amazing adventures. The Abbey Treasury of St. Mark is in the heart of the main-square and features
reliquaries, artworks, liturgical vestments and manuscripts
with some dating as far back as the 12th century. The Icon
Gallery features artworks of Byzantine paintings on wood
and most of which were brought across by island sailors
from the 13th to 17th century. Ahoy to the naval ancestors!
The Revelin Tower with its descending steps is a majestic site
in itself whilst the Maximilian Vanka Gallery hosts his astute
paintings and portraits for which he is most known for. And
that's just a snapshot of Korčula with more to do and see. All
in all, it's well worth a few days' stay and is a perfect place to
recharge your batteries.
One of the other most prominent features of the island is
its folk tradition which includes the Moreška, a dance with
swords, which you can witness during the summer months
(Mondays and Thursdays in July and August, Thursdays in
June and September, starting at 21:00), heralded by drumbeats as a parade of citizens in historical costume passes
through prior to the performance.
With such material, Korčula has a long tradition of tourism
and is one of the more commercialised of Croatia's Adriatic
towns, so the town itself gets pretty busy during high season.
But this is a relatively large island, there are plenty of other
places to explore and get away from it all. As with any island,
the perfect way to explore is to rent a scooter or bicycle from
74 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
any of the tourist agencies in town. Head towards the village
of Lumbarda where you'll find picturesque vineyards. You
must try the Grk wine, only produced in the surrounding
area, and said to have been brought from ancient Greece
after the fall of Troy. Wander the stone streets of the old village and feel miles and centuries away from everything else.
Other destinations for wine connoisseurs are the villages of
Čara and Smokvica, these two island gems also add to the
agricultural pallet as they are known for the top quality white
wine known as Pošip, considered to be one of the most prestigious wines of the Croatian south.
KORČULA CITY MUSEUM
QTrg Sv. Marka, tel. (+385-20) 71 14 20, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.gm-korcula.com. Open 10:00 - 14:00,
Sun by prior arrangement. July - September Open 09:00
- 21:00, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 8 - 20kn
KORČULA TOURIST BOARD
QObala dr. F.Tuđmana 4, tel. (+385-20) 71 57 01, info@
visitkorcula.eu, www.visitkorcula.eu. Open 08:00 - 15:00,
17:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. July - August Open 08:00
- 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00.
Lastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes
to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours.
Maybe that's why the island culture is so different and well
preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989, so
access to the island was restricted. With not a great deal to
do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has been left
pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it's an untouched
Many people sense in Lastovo a spirit unlike anything else, a
sense of the breath of ages. Lastovo town sits uphill in a basin
facing away from the sea to escape the attentions of pirates.
The mellow stone of the houses basking in the warm sunlight is captivating. Walking in the town's streets, those with a
sense for the antique and the eccentric will wonder at a culture so very detached from modern urban life.
Lastovo is a town of chimneys. In times past, a sign of the
wealth of a household was the size and ornateness of one's
chimney, and many unusual examples still stand. Another
vital aspect of Lastovo's heritage is the “Poklad” - the traditional pre-Lent carnival celebrating the island's deliverance
from Catalan pirates. An effigy of the Catalan messenger takes
centre stage, spectacularly released from a hilltop to slide on a
rope to the town centre with firecrackers exploding at its feet.
Humiliating indeed. At this time, as well as during summertime festivals, you can see the island's folk costume, where
the men wear scarlet and black with embroidered braces and
hats decked with colourful flowers.
With so little (except carnivals) to disturb them, fish adore Lastovo, and you can be sure of an excellent meal here.
Lastovo has poor transport connections, few shops, and there
is little accommodation apart from one hotel and a few families offering private rooms. But if you're ready and able to explore, and happy to adapt to the treacle-slow passage of time
here, this could well be the start of an enduring love affair.
LASTOVO TOURIST BOARD
QPjevor 7, tel. (+385-20) 80 10 18, email@example.com,
www.tz-lastovo.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat & Sun.
June Open 08:00 -14:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.
July - August Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Summer 2016 75
Dubrovnik is far from being just a walk-round museum of
cultural treasures and churches. It also stands in the middle
of a spectacularly unspoiled natural landscape, and is ideally suited to an active holiday of paddling, peddling and
generally pottering around.
The easiest way to stretch your legs is to embark on a mission to conquer Mount Srđ, the stark 412m-high summit
that watches over Dubrovnik to the north. Otherwise catch
a ferry to an offshore island such as Lopud, Šipan or Mljet,
where numerous walking trails forge through untouched
Most popular of the organized activities in the Dubrovnik
region is sea kayaking, with several local agencies offering
half- or full-day paddles focusing on the nearby islands of
Lokrum, Koločep and Lopud.
Cycling is beginning to take off in the Konavle, the beautifully rustic coastal strip that runs southeast from Dubrovnik
to the Montenegrin border. The Cavtat tourist office publishes a series of free mountain biking maps to the region,
and guided bike tours can be booked at travel agents in both
Dubrovnik and Cavtat.
With the chance to go scuba diving or sailing in coastal
waters near Dubrovnik or Mljet, or try out free climbing or
horse riding in the Konavle, there's no shortage of variety.
Packages which offer activities for adults (18+) with an element of thrill and danger.
ABYSS - DIVING & WATER-SPORT CENTRE
Diving center, diving school, water sports (jet ski, waterski,
wakeboard, stand up paddle, snorkeling, parasailing).QG‑2,
Ive Dulčića 142 (Hotel Dubrovnik President beach), tel.
(+385-) 099 256 12 56/(+385-) 098 24 43 49, diving.hr@
gmail.com, www.dubrovnikdiving.com. Open 09:00 18:00, Open 09:00 - 18:00 and by prior arrangement. A
Sea kayaking around Dubrovnik, free climbing in the Konavle.QPile bay, tel. (+385-) 091 566 59 42/(+385-) 091
526 38 13, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.
adventuredalmatia.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00.
BIG GAME FISHING
An exciting sport using fast boats on the open sea to catch
powerful fish such as tuna and marlin. Licences are for sale
in travel agencies.It can be organised via phone and can last
up to half a day or the entire day, it can be midweek or over
weekend depending on your preference, weather conditions and the availability of the ship.Qtel. (+385-) 091 419
14 50/(+385-) 091 419 14 54, www.biggamedubrovnik.
com. Open by prior arrangement.
DIVING CLUB DUBROVNIK
Scuba diving, start on Babin Kuk facing the Gruž harbour.
QG/H‑1, Solitudo Bay, tel. (+385-20) 43 57 37/(+385-)
098 42 79 63, email@example.com, www.du-diver.hr. Open
by prior arrangement.
Horse riding, ATV Quad Safaris intended for groups of 7 14 people, priced 550 - 650kn per person.QPopovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. (+385-) 098 60 69 29, info@kojankoral.
hr, www.kojankoral.hr. Open 08:00 - 12:00 and by prior
Agencies which offer one-day trips and longer trips that
suit your needs.
One day excursions, travels on foot, bike rental, donkey
rides, wine and olive oil tastings, kayaking.Qtel. (+385-)
099 667 77 00, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.
dubrovnikadventures.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00. A
DUBROVNIK BOAT EXCURSIONS
Day tours to Elaphite islands (Lopud, Šipan and Koločep)
with one of the 4 old timer boats that are fully equipped.
The price of 250kuna per person includes transportation from your hotel or place of stay to the ship docking area and back.QVrh sela 9, Veliki Zaton, tel.
(+385-) 098 178 71 77, email@example.com, www.
dubrovnikboatexcursions.com. Open by prior arrangement.
Tailor-made trips to Dubrovnik surroundings with choice
of full-featured transport (boat, sailing boat, catamaran,
speed boat or yacht), simply contact Nikša and his team.
QBartola Kašića 13, tel. (+385-) 098 75 78 90, info@
Open by prior arrangement.
Organised activities for both kids and adults, day trips to
devour, and safe sporting activities.
DUBROVNIK TENNIS CLUB
QH‑2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira bb, tel. (+385-20) 43
73 55, firstname.lastname@example.org. Open 07:00
- 23:00. 80kn/hr during the day, after the lights are on
you'll pay 100kn/hr.
Retail & Treatments
• Dermalogica skin care •
• OPI nail care •
• Body Massages •
• Adam & Eve waxing •
Spa at the Berkeley
Scuba diving.QF‑3, Masarykov put 20 (Hotel Dubrovnik
Palace), tel. (+385-) 091 899 09 73, email@example.com, www.blueplanet-diving.com. Open 09:00
- 19:00 and by prior arrangement.
76 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Summer 2016 77
your artistic taste buds. The main motif of her paintings
is the city of Dubrovnik as its beauty is her endless inspiration.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 099 834 05 73.
Open 10:00 - 20:00. N
Hidden on the first floor of the old Dubrovnik house and
located in the true Dubrovnik saloča, this charming gallery
is filled with paintings by artists from all parts of Croatia, and
in particular Dubrovnik. In addition, there are a great number of sculptures and jewelry as made by young Croatian
fashion designers.QC‑2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-) 099
243 59 44, firstname.lastname@example.org. Open 12:00
- 21:00. July - October 11:00 - 24:00. A
Colourful abstract pieces featuring Dubrovnik motifs.
QC‑3, Marojice Kaboge bb, tel. (+385-) 091 522 98 98/
(+385-) 091 501 33 18, email@example.com, www.
romana-milutin.com. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 19:00.
June - October Open 10:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 22:00. A
Aroma Ragusea Archives
A classy and sophisticated Croatian accessories brand.
Your chance to take back home exquisite silk ties and
scarves designed with Dubrovnik historical or marine
motifs or even the same leather bag that we heard Roger
Moore bought for his wife during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival!QK‑3, Marijana Blažića 2 (Hilton Imperial
Dubrovnik), tel. (+385-) 098 42 75 96, info@artgoden.
com, www.artgoden.com. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00
- 21:00. A
A rich offer of unique and authentic souvenirs such as
items made of silk and ceramics, as well as objects with
Konavle embroidery.QC‑2, Mrtvo zvono 8, Bastion
sv.Petra, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 94/(+385) 091 201 19
99, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.antoniaruskovic.com.
Open 08:00-18:30. June - July Open 08:00-19:30. A
Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a
store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and
more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts several entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that
much more special. Croata's shops in Dubrovnik and Split
also contain a Shop Museum, a display intended to showcase local heritage.QD‑3, Pred dvorom 2, tel. (+385-20)
64 10 66, www.croata.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A
Take home a little reminder of renaissance Dubrovnik jewellery, paintings, artworks, silverware...QC‑2, Između
Polača 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 23, info@moje-tezoro.
hr, www.moje-tezoro.hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00
- 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. July - August
Open 09:00 - 12, 18:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed
78 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
A fantastic selection of high quality local and Croatian
art. They also have art workshops during whole year so if
you are interested you know what to do...QB‑3, Od Domina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 73/(+385-) 098 28 53 98,
Open 10:00 - 16. May - June Open 10:00 - 18:00. July August Open 10:00 - 22:00. A
A small store exquisitely decorated in the spirit of the old
Dubrovnik salon and inspired by rich local and Croatian
culture. It has different goods to offer and you can choose
from the wide range of art objects, antiquities and useful items dedicated to Croatian history, the ancient times
right through to the present.QL‑2, Petra Krešimira IV
7, tel. (+385-) 098 20 91 50, email@example.com,
www.heritagegallery.eu. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. A
Exhibitions and works by famous and lesser known Croatian artists for sale.QB‑2, Čubranovićeva 7, tel. (+385-20)
32 32 93, firstname.lastname@example.org. Open 09:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun. June - September Open 09:00 - 22:00. A
WORKSHOP BE CRAFT
This workshop oozesss craft with products made of glass,
stone and ceramics depicting sea designs and images of
the Mediterranean and Dubrovnik. The store is located
close to the Old Town and you can even get items custom
designed.QL‑2, Put Petra Krešimira IV 31, tel. (+385-20)
31 26 46, email@example.com, www.becraft.eu. Open 09:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
LA CASA DEL HABANO
Wide selection of cigars from Cuba and Dominican Republic.QC‑3, Od Puča 1, tel. (+385-) 091 484 91 62, dubrovnik@
havana-cigar-shop.com, www.havana-cigar-shop.com. Open
13:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. June - August Open 12:00 - 24:00.A
This ten year old company offers traditional products
from the region of Dubrovnik. Their domestic products include arancini, sugared almonds, sea salt with
Mediterranean spices, such as sage and rosemary, as
well as aromatic bath salts with lavender, cookies and
beškotini, and a variety of liqueurs and teas. These
registered products can be purchased in three locations- Terra Croatica on Ulica od Puča, Kraš on Stradun
and Dubravka on Pile.Qtel. (+385-20) 33 27 77, info@
A treasure trove of local culture ready to take home:
from artworks to postcards, cosmetics, sweets, wines
and spirits, all local or Croatian.QD‑2, Sv.Dominika
bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 92, firstname.lastname@example.org.
hr.Open 09:00 - 20:00. June - September Open 09:00
- 23:00. A
FRANJA COFFEE & TEAHOUSE
A Croatian coffee company, also selling all other kinds
of souvenir-wrapped delicatessen and porcelain.QC‑3,
Od Puča 9, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 16, dubrovniksanja@
gmail.com, www.franja.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. June August Open 09:00 - 24:00.A
The confectionary company Croatians have known and
loved for years. Try Bajadera chocolate and hazelnut
sweets, or a bag of Krašotice biscuits.QC‑2, Zamanjina
2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 49, www.kras.hr. Open 08:00
- 20:00. May Open 08:00 - 21:00. June Open 08:00 22:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 24:00. A
Hmmm…The first Croatian oil shop that offers a wide
range of Croatian olive oils from Istria, the island of Brač
and Zadar, whilst also offering an array of Mediterranean spices and dry fruits. Good nibbles!QC‑2, Placa
18, Stradun, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 65, www.uje.hr.
Open May 09:00 - 23:00. June - October Open 09:00
- 00:00. A
A colorful richness of works made by Dubrovnik painter
Jadranka Mihajlović Munitić just may impress and caress
Summer 2016 79
Tired of all the basic t-shirts offered to remember your
trip at souvenir shops? Dubrovnik Brand (dB) is the
answer to your problem. They use original motifs, representing this region, to design their unique chic and
stylish t-shirts, such as sketches of the Rector Palace
door knocker, the Dubrovnik gargoyle Maskeron, traditional wedding earrings from the Župa region, as well
as an outlined profile of St. Blaise, the patron saint of
Dubrovnik. Additionally, to keep you safe during your
travels, they offer Rozeta lucky charm bracelets. These
simple, yet classy bracelets will help illuminate your
life, as they represent light.Q B-2; D-4; C-2 Adriatic
Explore, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4; Duchkas Concept Store Dubrovnik, Ulica od Pustijerne 1; Zlatarna
Križek, Boškovićeva 2.
KADIFAČA - MUSEUM SHOP
A new series of products, created by using Kadifača,
the traditional embroidery pattern of folklore costumes
from the Konavle region, are now available at the museum shop in the Rector Palace. Divided into two collections, the Colour Collection and the Black Collection,
they offer bookmarks, keychains, necklaces, placemats
and coasters. These unique designs were created by Svjetlana Despot, owner of the Design Center Datadecor
in Rijeka. She is known to be one of the best interior and
product design specialists in Croatia.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 39, www.dumus.hr/hr/storaditi/muzejska-prodavaonica/.
Did you know? The word turquoise comes from the
name of a colour the French gave to a mineral from
Turkey. The Dubrovnik Republic was responsible for introducing this colour to Europe. Products offered from
this store are designed using this soothing colour. They
offer unique plexi rings, each topped with a unique
and modern shape, as well as graphic design modern
art posters and photos, which represent the sea.QB‑2,
Ulica Getaldićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 095 905 42 40, www.
turqwise.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. June - September
Open 10:00 - 24:00. J
The small family-run business started selling it's homemade Lekri wines from Pelješac. The Krile family also
makes liqueurs with a diverse assortment of flavorscareb, cherry, lemon and many more. The souvenirs are
all knickknacks made by local Dubrovnik artists.QH‑2,
Lapadska obala 17, tel. (+385-) 098 78 77 05, sales@
lekri.eu, www.lekri.eu. From May Open 09:00 - 13:00,
17:00 - 22:00.
80 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
The Borovo Company is the
best-known shoe manufacturer in
Croatia, having the longest tradition, heritage and love towards
shoes. Founded in 1931, with
headquarters located in Vukovar,
during the past 85 years, Borovo
has built its identity not only in
Croatia but in the entire region by
producing stylish, urban, casual
and sports footwear.
Materials used in production
are all of the natural origins such
as leather, 100% cotton canvas
and natural rubber made from
Startas Pink unicorn
has been featured in
fashion magazine Vogue.
Obala Stjepana Radića 9
Za Rokom 7
caoutchouc that is also produced
in the factory. Following the idea
of unique quality shoes, Borovo
designers create simple yet modern cozy footwear that is crafted
with special care and love by at
least 20 caring hands.
The Big Blue
Brands like Startas, Borosana,
Boromina, Rubber, My Ballerinas and
The Big Blue are modern and stylish
shoes for different generations and
Startas sneakers are entirely
handmade, vegan, with coolest
Try their own wines from the Pelješac peninsula, or top
quality fruit spirits, local candies and preserves.QC‑2,
Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 77, dolores.racic@yahoo.
com. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. June Open
09:00 - 21:00. July - August Open 09:00 - 23:00. A
A little store in a street next to the Sponza palace, packed
with unusual accessories, clothes and jewellery. Most
items are by famous Croatian fashion designers, so it's
a little pricey but definitely unique and stylish.QD‑2,
Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 41, modnikantun@
gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A
XD XENIA DESIGN
Designer who make custom clothing suited to your size
and personality.QG‑4, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik Hotel), tel. (+385-) 091 442 11 17/(+385-20) 33
11 75, email@example.com, www.xenia-design.hr. Open
09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. July - August
09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Sun 9:00 - 12:00. AG
CROATIAN DESIGNERS ROOM
Is fashion your fetish and forte? Then look no further, this
is the ‘be all end all' of Croatian mainstream fashion with
great choices of clothes made by the most famous Croatian designers, all found in the one place.QC‑3, Od puča
11, firstname.lastname@example.org. Open
10:00 - 20:00. June Open 10:00 - 21:00. July - August
Open 10:00 - 22:00. A
dB Brand Archives
If you forgot to pack your fancy designer frocks, Stella
McCartney shoes, or Celine handbag, then Maria is the
place to stock up on replacements. Gorgeous and expensive in equal measure, it's the kind of shop that makes
you feel glamorous just by looking through the window.
QD‑2, Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 13 30, info@
mariastore.hr, www.mariastore.hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00.
July - August Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. A
Summer 2016 81
Handmade unique pieces of jewelry made from carefully
chosen Adriatic red corals, pearls, semiprecious and precious stones, which may leave some women breathless.
The uniqueness of this store is its presentation department which shows how a coral branch is worked on and
the different phases of its lifecycle.QC‑2, Nalješkovićeva
8, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 06, email@example.com, www.
clarastones.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. JA
Handmade jewellery, paper flowers and original gifts.QI‑2,
Dr. Vladka Mačeka 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 17 50/(+385-)
098 85 72 79, firstname.lastname@example.org. Open 09:00 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. W
Dubrovnik Treasures offers a large selection of high-quality
jewellery for a great price. Each piece of jewellery is handmade in Dubrovnik by local designers, using a combination
of Adriatic coral, freshwater pearls, as well as semi precious stones with sterling silver or vermeil.QB‑2, Celestina
Medovića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 98, dubrovniktreasures@
gmail.com, www.dubrovniktreasures.com. Open 09:00 21:00. July - August Open 09:00 - 23:00. A
This family-run chain of goldsmiths was established in 1935.
They have an extensive collection of modern jewellery created in precious metals, coral and pearl, and a wide selection of wedding rings.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32
20 27, email@example.com, www.krizek.hr. Mon, Wed, Fri
Open 10:00 - 17:00, Tue, Thu 13:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun. July Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun. A
BAČAN HANDMADE PRODUCTS
Here you can go all out ‘folk' with national costumes, blouses and table cloths all decorated with Konavle embroidery
on sale.QD‑2, Prijeko 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 21, lena.
firstname.lastname@example.org. Open 09:30 - 15:30,
17:30 - 23:00, Sun 09:30 - 15:30. JN
tel: +385 (20) 773-333
DUTY FREE SHOP
The Dubrovnik Duty Free Shop offers the expected range
of products you see at similar stores, the exception here is
the traditional Croatian products and gift packages which
will exemplify your stay in our grand city.QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Konavle.
IVO BIOČINA - DECORATIVE SCULPTORS WORKSHOP
A small sculptors workshop with fascinating statues, figures, holy crosses, bowls, Croatian cross patterns, the Dubrovnik coat of arms and more. See how this exceptional
combination of stone from Brač is carved in Dubrovnik
motifs. Truly original!QD‑2, Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-)
091 536 40 56. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JN
The Rector's Palace is where guests can acquire some of the
more sophisticated and more exclusive gifts and souvenirs.
QD‑3, Pred dvorom 3 (Rector's Palace), tel. (+385-20) 32
10 39, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00. AW
Unique ornaments made from palm wood, prices from
100kn.QC‑3, City Market, Gundulićeva poljana, tel.
(+385-) 091 553 96 08/(+385-) 091 514 20 18. Open 09:00
Original Konavle handicrafts: slippers, jewellery, greetings
cards and more.QD‑2, Zlatarska 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 54,
Open 09:00 - 20:00. June - Septemeber Open 09:00 20:00. A
Looking for a souvenir for the pyromaniac maritime enthusiast in your life? How about a wax model of the Karaka (a
type of historic wooden merchant ship made in Dubrovnik)
which doubles as a fully functioning candle? All joking
aside, these models are painstakingly made by Tonći Jonjić,
who researches and creates models of historic Croatian
boats.Qtel. (+385-) 098 939 43 83, info@vostanibrod.
82 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
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