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Summer 2017

Croatian Inventors
Great Minds from a
Small Country
Get Cultural
Your Guide Through
N°14 - complimentary copy
Best Summer Events


Croatian Critters 39
Foreword 4 The Benkovac fair, donkey races...
A zesty editorial to unfold
Zadar Surroundings 42
What’s On 5 The top getaways
A pick ‘n’ list to brighten your stay
Leisure 53
Croatian Inventors 11 Treasure some leisure
How they influenced the world
Shopping 56
Restaurants 14 Priceless places and buys
We give you the bread ‘n’ butter of where to eat
Where to stay 59 Local Flavour 21 Accommodation categories in Croatia
Treat yourself or be treated
Arrival & Getting Around 60
Coffee & Cakes 25 SOS! Have no fear, ZIYP is here
“How’s that sweet tooth?”
Zadar Basics 63
Nightlife 27 Keepn it real
Are you ready to party?
Sightseeing 30 City Centre Map 64-65
Discover what we ‘ve uncovered City Map/Street Register   66-67

zadar Vransko jezero Nature Park Viewpoint, Photo by Ivo Dunatov, TZ Zadar Photonet Archives

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To discover Zadar surroundings check page 42. Summer 2017 3
Foreword What’s On
Honesty is the best policy and during the summer sea-
son, the city of Zadar, just like most other major coastal
towns, does get overpopulated. Therefore, to avoid being Publisher
cramped and people hearing the ‘oh no, we’re packed like Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb
sardines’ lingo, as well as the extreme heat, we suggest ISSN 1334-9228
you follow our mini tips and recommendations because Company Office & Accounts
to put it simply, ‘we know,’ so do follow! Mornings are the Višnja Arambašić
best time to browse the city and fish markets, enjoy the Zadar In Your Pocket, Lastovska 42, Zagreb, Croatia
Tel. (+385-1) 779 12 28, 779 12 29,
scents and colours of local food from the surrounding ar-,
eas and villages, and drink coffee with locals because it is Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.
at this time that many visitors are still fast asleep or else- Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja
where. If you are a true early bird, you still have the time Editorial
Editor Višnja Arambašić
to go for a swim in the clear sea as this can be done in the Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan
city itself right on the Riva. Seeing a museum or two is also Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Nikola Badovi-
nac, Andrea Pisac
a lovely way to spend your morning too. In terms of noon, Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac
this is best spent in the shade where possible and lunch Assistant Editor Blanka Valić
can be eaten in any of the recommended restaurants from Community Manager Tea Bikić
Design Lovro Boljat
our IYP guide. The Rector’s Palace is a monumental and Photography Zadar In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated
architectural masterpiece dating from the 13th-century Cover © Mladen Radolović, Pag lace, TZ Zadar Photonet Archives
worth visiting; it has influences from different periods with Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević
Support Sales Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić, Tea Bikić
stone décor, a spacious inner courtyard, harmonious bal-
conies and a colossal entry. Mali Arsenal is 15th century re- Copyright notice
vamped fortress that teaches you about Zadar’s 3000 year Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be re-
history through multi-sensory new age games and explo- produced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review,
ration apps. When the sun goes down then getting out is without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner.
what it’s all about, the parties and festivities are aplenty. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your
Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
And depending on how many days you have available, is- Zadar (Croatia) In Your Pocket is not responsible for any information
land hopping and visiting national parks is the best way to which might change after publication. Please check with the event Gangbé Brass Band, Zadar Croatian National Theatre Archives
destress and be totally impressed! organisers if in doubt.

Rock & Pop Concerts nisers. It’s history being revealed in front of you!QD‑2, The
22.07 » Massimo Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora
One of Croatia’s highly regarded pop-rock singers who 1,
has produced chart topping hits since the 80s. Just like a
good wine, Massimo seems to get better with time. Many 10.02 - 31.12 » Permanent exhibition - Six
declare him to be Croatia’s David Bowie with startling re- Salon Stories (The historical ambience
semblences in voice.QD‑3, Ledana Lounge bar, Perivoj of the Zadar National Museum)
kraljice Jelene Madijevke, With time comes change, with change comes a new time!
See the story of Zadar broken into six different historical
12.08 » Pet Shop Boys periods. The exhibited artefacts are traces and segments
After the huge success of the first half of their World which make up a historical mosaic of Zadar’s people across
Super Tour, this iconic electronic pop duo return to various centuries. The Rector’s Palace is a prime example
Europe this summer and visit Zadar for the very first time. of renewal as it was damaged during the 1990s Homeland
The band which gained enormous success especially War and with time rebuilt making it the perfect place to
during the golden era of the 1980s perform a full listing host the exhibition.QD‑3, Rector’s Palace, Poljana Šime
of their biggest hits as well as songs from their current Budinića,
album named ‘Super’.QE‑2, Jazine, Obala kralja
Tomislava 2, 220 - 350kn. 16.05 - 16.07 » Looking for Dalmatian
Presenting for the very first time an overview of the Palae-
Exhibitions olithic research conducted of Neanderthal life in Dalmatia
05.05 - 10.08 » The City of the Dead Abow through excavations at several sites where the Mousterian
the Field of Life culture (the Middle Palaeolithic culture) is linked to the
The exhibition will present the results of archaeological re- Neanderthals: Mujine pećine (Mujine Caves) at Kaštela,
search from one of the world’s most important sites of the Velike pećine (The Great Caves) in the Kličevice canyon
Iron Age - the necropolis of the Kopila settlement located near Benkovac, the underwater Palaeolithic site in Resnik
on the island of Korčula. The site is of huge archaeological near Kaštel Štafilić, and the space between Ljubački Bay
importance due to the historical and cultural interaction and Posedarje.QC‑3, Archaeological Museum Zadar, Trg
of the indigenous population with Greek and Roman colo- opatice Čike 1,
4 Zadar In Your Pocket Summer 2017 5
What’s On
15.06 - 15.09 » Marc Chagall - On the Other
Side of the Colour
The gorgeous and newly renovated 14th century Rector’s Pal-
ace becomes a temporary home for ninety prints as well as
lithographs, brass and woodprints by this Russian-French ar-
tistic genius. It portrays the perfectionism, vision and dreamy
art work of Eastern European Jewish folk culture and Chagall’s
constant dialogue with the eternal. True craftsmanship!QD‑3,
Rector’s Palace, Poljana Šime Budinića,

20.06 - 20.09 » Forvm Naronitanvm
An archaeological dream where you can see finds from
the ancient Roman town of Narona, near Metković. This
exhibition takes you on a walk through history via a video
projection and blueprint of the site itself plus photos taken
during the excavations, drawings of the objects found, a
3D reconstruction of the architecture and movable ar-
chaeological finds dating from the 2nd century BC until
the 9th century AD.QC‑3, Archaeological Museum Za‑
dar, Trg opatice Čike 1,

30.06 - 14.07 » Friends of the Sea - Games
Having started in 2009, this photo exhibit highlights a se-
ries of 60 large-format photos by prominent Croatian pho-
tographers. The squares and shores of 13 Croatian cities
display the ambience of this year’s theme ‘games at the
sea’ with (diving, sailing, racing, swimming marathons,
Joyce, Zadar Croatian National Theatre Archives millennium jumps) and all the adrenaline they raise. Its
media culture merged with sports, leisure and ecology
19.05 - 15.09 » Jeronim Tišljar - Broken along the serene Adriatic
Zagreb born glass design artist, Jeronim Tišljar has made july - august » A Selection of artwork
an important contribution to Croatian culture by using the from the Zadar National Museum Art
innovative use of glass in architecture, which in its modern Gallery Collection
form was almost completely unknown in Croatia. After Chronologically presented from the 19th until the 21st
studying at the prestigious Academy of Arts, Archiecture century along with influences from the modern Croatian
and Design in Prague and having working abroad, Tišljar art scene(1950’s-1980’s), see some of Croatia’s greatest
is among the leading innovators of modern glassware in painters including Vlaho Bukovac, Ignjat Job, Edo Murtić,
Croatia and Europe as a whole and you get to see his dis- Ivan Kožarić as well as numerous Zadar born artists. Select-
played works.QD‑2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana ed works from the Photo Collection will be presented for
Zemaljskog odbora 1, the first time.QD‑3, Gallery of Fine Arts - Zadar National
Museum, Medulićeva 2,
What to expect at the July - september » Art of Fibre – Weaving
end of summer? More Stories (donation of tapestry by Ivan
interesting exhibitions… and Anita Šokčević Tomljanović, perma-
nent exhibition)
18.08 - 19.10. »Old Techniques of Glass The married couple Anita and Ivan Tomljanović donated
Painting thirty-two tapestries to the Zadar National Museum in
Author Zvonka Požun 2015, works which were made from 1962 to 2001. The
QD‑2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog tapestries are showcased not only for their incredible and
odbora 1, today almost forgotten and neglected skill in weaving, but
also to promote this valuable artwork.
19.09 - 07.11. »Studio Valeria The tapestries were woven with woollen threads of natu-
Authors Iskra Toner, Nina Dragan Belić and Mal‑ ral shades inspired by Christian themes, the city of Zadar,
gorzata Chomicz .QD‑2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, nature and Mount Velebit.QB‑2, Department of Zadar
Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, City Museum, Poljana pape Aleksandra III, www.nmz.
6 Zadar In Your Pocket
What’s On What’s On
11.08 - 11.09 » Multimedia exhibition An- 20.08 - 24.08 » Sonus Festival
cient Croatian Heritage in a New Light The Aquarius, Kalypso and Papaya Nightclubs open their doors
Historians will value this contemporary and multimedia to an international audience each year for the Sonus Festival. For
exhibition presenting exceptionally valuable Croatian five days and five nights party goers can hear the best in the
cultural heritage from long ago. A large number of pre- electronic underground scene across the Zrće Beach. Featured
Romanesque and early-Roman monuments of exceptional artists include: Adam Beyer, Adriatique, Andrea Ljekaj, Androlog-
value will be displayed to visitors during the touristy sum- ic, Apollonia, Chris Liebing, Dan Andrei, Dejan Milicevic, Monika
mer days.QB‑3, St Donatus’ Church, Poljana pape Ivana Kruse, Ricardo Villalobos Sonja Moonear , Sven Väth, Tale Of Us
Pavla II, and many more to come.QZrće Beach, Novalja, Pag Island,
26.06 - 30.06 » Hideout Festival Special Events
The 7th edition of this electronic summer party is set to 13.04 - 01.10 » KineDok
deliver over 100 headline acts and underground DJs that Everything but Hollywood is here to twinkle your soul
will perform across several open-air stages. The festival is as KineDok is a unique platform promoting creative and
located in Novalja and by the seaside with themed boat innovative documentary films watched at non-cinema
parties adding another dimension to revelers. A mixture of venues. KineDok presents itself as a new kind of interna-
everything from house and techno to bass and grime will tional film community with 16 documentaries screened,
alarm the decibels. This year’s line-up includes Major Lazer so as they say, ‘come and watch intriguing stories about
Soundsystem, Marco Carola, Stormzy, Diplo, Jamie Jones people like you, with people like you.’QB‑3, ACME Club,
and multitudes more.QZrće Beach, Novalja, Pag Island, N. Nikole Matafare 2a, 20:30 Every Thursday.

11.07 - 13.07 » Fresh Island Festival june - september » Feštice
Greetings and welcome to one of Europe’s leading Hip-Hop Zadar returns to the past on Fridays, organising mini fes-
and Urban music festivals which is set on the island of Pag. tivals, or feštice, to bring the original spirit of Dalmatia to
Mid July sees three mega clubs on Zrće beach transform the week’s big night out. In the Old Town, stalls spring
with DJ’s, MC’s, boat and pool parties representing the up selling fresh, simple, fishy food and bevanda – white
absolute best in Hip-Hop, R&B and Grime. Hear the likes of wine and water, a popular drink in hot weather. Dalmatian
Sean Paul, French Montana, Tim Westwood, Lady Leshurr acapella groups (klapa) brighten the atmosphere in the
Hideout Festival Archives and more.QZrće Beach, Novalja, Pag Island, www.fresh- konobas (traditional fishermen’s reataurants) and wander the streets adding to the general warmth and gaiety.Q.
Every Friday.
July - september » Inside the founda- 10.07 - 01.09 » The most poisonous snakes of 28.07 - 29.07 » KalelargArt
tions of the city - From the archaeolog- the world A street art festival that includes dance and theatre per- 30.06 - 03.08 » the 23rd Zadar Summer
ical layers of Liburnian Zadar See one of the biggest private collections of snakes in Eu- formances, blues and jazz concerts, fine art, monodramas, Theatre Festival
Zadar has a 3000 year history and with current urban rope, the exhibition showcases not only the most famous street acrobats, jugglers and magicians. This is where art is Its lights, camera, action in Zadar for 5 straight weeks and
changes to city infrastructure, every stone excavated can snakes such as the black and green mamba, the spitting taken to the people; it is held across a range of city locations there is something for everyone. From local to national
lead to the unveiling of the city’s rich past. See selected cobra, Gabon viper, boa and python, but also large poi- and at various times from dusk till dawn.QC‑3, Kalelarga, theatre groups; casts, crews, actors and directors give
archaeological research conducted over the last two de- sonous snakes – the six year old Royal Cobra called Elvis Široka ulica. it their all on stage to present some enthralling perfor-
cades with rare finds of preserved layers from the prehis- which is now nearly 4 meters long. And if you’re brave, you
toric period, Iron Age and especially the everyday life of can hold the non-venomous snakes in your hands!QD‑3, 12.08 » Festival of Sand Pet Shop Boys
Liburnian Zadar.QC‑3, Archaeological Museum Zadar, City Lodge, Narodni trg, The idyllic town of Nin is known for its soft beautiful sandy
Trg opatice Čike 1, beaches which makes it home to this rather unique event. Two
11.08 - 11.09 » Multimedia Exhibition & Time particular beaches (Kraljičina and Ždrijac) are ready for action
01.07 - 01.08 » Adriatic Molluscs Machine from the -9th until the + 21st and art in combo.
See what’s under the sea with various sea snails and shell- century Sculptures of sand will be made by mentors and tourists of
fish that live in one of the most beautiful and cleanest seas Up for some nocturnal artistic experience? Then look no all ages alike, so get ready to shovel, carve, mix and mould in
in the world, the Adriatic Sea. The exhibits are presented further as the Archaeological Museum has an evening pro- putting together your very own sandy creations.QŽdrijac and
via shells and photos taken under the sea and accompa- gramme and the very special exhibition entitled Time Ma- Kraljičina Beach, Nin,
nied by a text that will guide the visitor to the history of chine of -9 to +21 century.
malacology and coniology in Zadar and to the biology Immerse yourself after hours with a unique time machine 14.08 - 17.08 » Barrakud
and ecology of marine molluscs.QD‑3, Natural History which takes you through the rich history of Zadar from the Never resting on their laurels, organisers have a special
Department - Zadar National Museum, Medulićeva 2, 9th century BC until the 21st century AD, all accompanied reason to go the extra mile this yearl. Their classic motto of with special lighting effects and interesting content.QC‑3, ‘Are you all ready to rave the world again, continues? Hear
Archaeological Museum Zadar, Trg opatice Čike 1, www. the music of Fritz Kalkbrenner, Paul Kalkbrenner and more. QZrće Beach, Novalja, Pag Island,

8 Zadar In Your Pocket Summer 2017 9
What’s On
mances. Fatal love, lies, dishonesty, deception, curiosity The finale brings on stage the 10 member ‘Gangbé Brass
and turbulence are just some of the key elements that tell Band’ which blend West African jùjú and traditional Vodou
the tales of these plays. All in all, theatre and performance music with Western jazz and big-band sounds.QD‑2, The
is truly alive in this part of the globe.QC‑3, Croatian Na‑ Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1.
tional Theatre, Široka ulica 8,
29.07 » Millenium Jump
07.07 » Imperial Russian Ballet - Swan Lake When in Zadar do as the Zadrani do! And the majority of
Swan Lake is one of the most popular and famous ballets locals will all be here for this growing event. It’s the Millen-
ever created; it’s a work that has become synonymous with nium Jump where over 1500 people form a joint line and on
classical ballet. Ensembles worldwide have altered, modified the word ‘go’ jump into the water forming a domino effect.
and even transformed this ballet since its premiere in 1877, It looks spectacular from the air! The line ranges from the
but the very essence of this melodramatic love story always Sea Organ through to the Faculty of Humanities and Social
remains.QB‑3, City Forum, 120 - 400kn Science.QA/B/C‑4, The Riva, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV.

13.07 - 10.08 » The 57th Musical Evenings in 02.08 - 05.08 » Full Moon Festival
St Donatus On the night of the full moon in high summer, the Riva is lit
If you enjoy the ambience of music within a holy setting, then by torch and candlelight. Boats are turned into floating mar-
this international music festival which combines music and kets selling the best tuna and sardines from the famous fish-
beautiful old church architecture will delight you. The event ermen of Kali (Ugljan); clams from Pašman and mussels from
will host numerous local ensembles and solo artists as well as Novigrad. Rustic, temporary konobas serve everything from
renowned performers of chamber music from abroad. It’s con- šokol from Nin to figs, cheese, rakija and traditional cooking.
sidered one of the most important cultural events on the Zadar QA/B/C‑4, The Riva, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV.
calendar. Concerts starts at 21:00.QB‑3, St Donatus’ Church,
Poljana pape Ivana Pavla II,
26.07 - 28.07 » Zadar Jazz & Blues 14.07 - 11.08 » VAK’'AN'’ZA 31% - Sport & Music
Head to the Museum of Antiquity Glass for jazztastic music Festival
to delight your ears! This year’s triple line-up starts with Joyce Welcome to this Water-Polo Amateur Cup which brings
Elaine Yuille, a groovy jazz based gospel and blues type sing- this historical Olympic Sport to the people, this much
er hailing from New York. The second evening sees German sought after tournament is open to everyone and anyone;
gypsy artist Wawau Adler teaming up with our very own so be brave, form a team and register. Entertainment wise,
guitarist Damir Kukuruzović, both are avid fans of Django the Zadar waterfront will host various bands and artists.
Reihnart and promote a fusion of Roma and American jazz. QA/B/C‑4, The Riva, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV, www.
Photo by Dino Ninković, Fresh Island Festival Archives
14.07 » Basket Tour
Its 3x3 basketball whether the winner takes it all. Season
six is well under way and Croatia is again a competing Concept One, Rimac Automobili Archives
country last year reaching the semi-finals. The national
tournament is held over 12 rounds in 12 cities with the
winners able to play off for the European Championships

Croatian Inventors
in Switzerland. Zadar is on the calendar for July 14 and
the FIBA WORLD TOUR play off will be at the City Galleria.
QN‑5, City Galleria, Murvička 1,

05.08 » The 45th traditional swimming
marathon Preko-Zadar
Put on those swimsuits and find your way to the Preko Riv- great minds from a small country
Picigin at Bačvice Beach, Photo by Ivo Pervan, Friends of the Sea - Games
iera (Ugljan Island), you can catch the ships which leave for
Preko at 07:30 as the event starts at 09:00. By 10:00 the first
swimmers are expected to arrive at the Kolovare pools.
Fun and fitness for

19.08 » Jadran Rowing Duel
Row, row, row your boat gently down the Jazine! Indeed,
see this 8 man rowing regatta with local and international
crews battling the conditions for the prized trophy.QJa‑
zine Bay,
10 Zadar In Your Pocket
Croatian Inventors Croatian Inventors
By Andrea Pisac His famous work Theoria Philosophiae Naturalis/Theory of His most impressive yet controversial discovery is the Tomislav Uzelac
If there was an index to calculate a country’s inventiveness gene, Natural Philosophy (Vienna, 1758) contains super-modern Tesla Coil – the concept that the Earth itself is a magnet Do you remember how the iPod came to be? There is a
Croatia would rank extremely high. This small country of no more theories that were proven and embraced only two centuries which generates electricity through frequencies. All that is moving scene in the film Steve Jobs where he devised the
than 4.5 million people has advanced the world in all major later. Like for example that matter consists of tiny particles, needed for free power for everyone is a transmitter. See the portable music library to get closer to his estranged daugh-
spheres of life. Croatian inventors have dreamed up ingenious today known as quarks, and a lot of empty space. The true controversy here? ter. But having your favourite music tucked inside your
abstract concepts and have also created hands-on solutions that meaning of this revolutionary discovery may be lost to a lay- But, back to practical, everyday solutions. Think of house pocket predates Jobs’ ingenuity.
we use in everyday life. person. So think of Albert Einstein’s theory of relativity – appliances, machine tools, disk drives... they are all
Starting from Nikola Tesla who literally “lit up the world” with the biggest discovery of the 20th century – and remember powered by the electric motor invented by Tesla. Next The first successful MP3 player was invented by the
his alternating electric current to Slavoljub Penkala whose pen that it wouldn’t have been possible without Bošković’s ideas. time when you take a cold drink from your fridge, think Te- Croatian programmer Tomislav Uzelac. He built on research
allows us to sign our name – physically on paper and metaphori- But this genius scientist also used his mind for practical solu- sla. Styling your hair with a hairdryer? Think Tesla. This man about music file compression carried out in Germany and
cally as a legacy. tions, like repairing the dome of St. Peter’s in Rome and changed the planet as probably no one before or after him. came up with his own product in 1997 – AMP. This first MP3
Many of Croatia’s greatest minds lived a quiet life, as most ge- setting up the famous Brera Observatory in Milan. And yes, the Tesla electric car is named after Nikola Tesla! player was picked up in the USA and adapted to work on
niuses do. And as history keeps re-evaluating our biggest civi- Ivan Lupis (1813-1875) Windows. Then we got Winamp, and we are sure most of
lizational feats, Croatian inventions too are being rescued from Weapons may not be the greatest of our achievements, but David Schwarz (1850-1897) you have had it installed on your computers.
oblivion. Like for example the ideas spawned by the physicist when Ivan Lupis invented the torpedo, more technological When it comes to conquering the sky, Croats indebted
Ruđer Bošković, which predate Einstein’s theory of relativity by breakthroughs followed. The initial idea of this Croatian navy the world with yet another design – the Zeppelin. David The newest inventions
200 years. What better way to connect to your travel destination officer was to guard the coast with small boats laden with Schwarz, a Croatian aviation pioneer created the first of its There is a new generation of savvy Croatian program-
than to realize how its inventors influenced the world at large, explosives. kind, an airship completely made of metal. The Zeppelin mers who continue to impress with their state-of-the-art
and your own day-to-day life. So here is a list of Croatia’s major The concept of fighting off the enemy with a much smaller plane may not be in use any more, but its discovery was devices. You will come across at least two of them while
innovators. and self-propelled vessel was so revolutionary it quickly an important step in designing airships which could be you travel in Croatia. Here, you can pay for parking by text
caught the attention of the English engineer Robert controlled by engine-driven propellers. message and charge your mobile device on a solar-pow-
Faust Vrančić (1551 - 1617) Whitehead. Under his direction, the first torpedo was Schwarz worked on the prototype that was to be test flown ered smart bench. The Steora bench, invented by Ivan
People had always been fascinated with flying, but it was not manufactured in Rijeka in 1868. Over the years the in Berlin in 1897, but he died a few months before it hap- Mrvoš, has already stormed the world, and Zagreb alone
until the Renaissance that they had the first taste of it. Many fish-like underwater weapon was improved through other pened. The legend says that Count Ferdinand Graf von Zep- has 20 of them installed across the city.
think that Leonardo da Vinci invented the parachute. But the discoveries, such as contra-rotating propellers and the use pelin bought Schwarz's patent from his widow, the reason When it comes to new sources of energy, you only need
revolutionary ‘Homo Volans’ (the flying man) concept was ac- of a gyroscope for direction setting. It was one of the most why the airship is named after him. to go 20 km outside Zagreb to the bucolic village of Sveta
tually thought through by Šibenik-born Faust Vrančić. In his important military resources in both World Wars. Nedelja to find the world’s fastest electric car. This is
masterwork Machinae Novae/New Devices (Venice 1615), Slavoljub Penkala (1871-1922) where Mate Rimac makes his famous Concept One – the
this genius polymath depicted 56 different machines, devices, Ivan Vučetić (1858 - 1925) Even if you’re not a professional writer, try counting the biggest competitor to the electric models made by Ferrari,
and technical concepts. Many were bridges, mills and turbines. Today’s world is fascinated with forensics and CSI TV shows. number of times you put your signature on a document. Lamborghini and Porsche. When you are in Zagreb, don’t
Next time you admire San Francisco’s famous Golden Gate On the one hand, this advanced investigative technology The old-fashioned way, with a pen to paper. This was made miss a chance to visit the Rimac factory. Go on a 60 minute
Bridge, remember that the suspension bridge was Vrančić’s makes us safer because hardly anyone can get away with possible by the great inventor Slavoljub Penkala who first tour and meet the world’s most talked about car in person.
brainchild. committing a crime. On the other, the data kept on each of patented the mechanical pen in 1906. Only a year later,
The parachute he conceived of was the first ever tested. It was us may be infringing on our privacy. Like fingerprinting for Penkala also created the fountain pen. The Faust Vrančić Memorial Centre Archives
Vrančić himself who at the age of 65 jumped from St Mark's an ID for example. These writing accessories became so popular that Pen-
Campanile in Venice and confirmed his invention worked. He Whether you are for or against it, have you ever wondered kala teamed up with Edmund Moster to set up the Penkala-
survived, setting humankind on course to finally conquer the sky. who invented it? It was the Hvar-born Ivan Vučetić who later Moster pen-and-pencil factory. TOZ Penkala (the factory’s
emigrated to Argentina and became the director of the current name) is still alive and kicking in Zagreb – an estab-
Marin Getaldić (1568-1626) Center for Dactyloscopy in Buenos Aires. In 1892 Vučetić lishment with a cult status.
Maybe you don’t need glasses, or don’t need them yet. But when made the first positive identification of a criminal based on a If writing is our civilizational achievement, then Penkala
you pick them up in your seasoned years, think of the mathema- bloody fingerprint. His exceptional method of fingerprint- undoubtedly provided one of the most crucial means by
tician and physicist Marin Getaldić. This Dubrovnik-born col- ing classification became the golden standard in CSIs which we leave our mark and our signature in the world.
league of Galileo Galilei set the stage for modern day optics. around the world.
A pioneer in building conic lenses, he would retire into the so Zlata Bartl (1920-2008)
called Bete’s cave outside the Dubrovnik city walls and conduct Nikola Tesla (1856-1943) A magical cooking spice Vegeta is the magnus opus of
his experiments with mirrors. The parabolic mirror he built still There are still people who don’t know of Tesla, but there is Zlata Bartl. You may be thinking ‘how typical for a woman
survives and is kept at the National Maritime Museum in London. hardly anyone whose life is not impacted by his ingenious to invent something relating to the kitchen’. But Zlata Bartl
Again, a parabolic mirror may not sound like much. But next inventions. Let’s start with electricity, this basic facility that was a chemist and a scientist working in Croatia’s foremost
time you tune into your favourite TV show on a satellite channel, we won’t or can’t live without. Tesla’s alternating electric food company Podravka.
remember, a satellite dish is just one if its many applications. current (AC), invented at the same time as Edison’s direct In 1959 she concocted Vegeta from salt, spices, dried veg-
current (DC), proved a safer and more cost-effective mode etables and flavour enhancers. The condiment soon shot to
Ruđer Bošković (1711-1787) of power generation and distribution. Tesla is what happens popularity and was selling worldwide. No foreign attempt
The hardest inventions to understand and appreciate are the every day when you turn your lights switch on! to reproduce the product, and there were many, was suc-
abstract ones. They may not have practical devices to show His next grand discovery was the radio, though it was ini- cessful, so Vegeta continues to be one of Croatia’s most
but they forever change the way we see the world. This is tially credited to Marconi – the patent was eventually given widely recognized brands. Next time you are cooking,
why you should remember Ruđer Bošković, Dubrovnik-born back to Tesla in 1943. From there Tesla invented the system try the Croatian trick – finish with adding one spoonful of
mathematician, astronomer, and philosopher – the father of of remote control. Yes, the same one you use when you Vegeta.
modern physics. flip through TV channels.
12 Zadar In Your Pocket Summer 2017 13
Restaurants Restaurants
These restaurants usually combine a choice of Dalmatian Harbor Cookhouse & Club
specialities and seafood with cuisine from inland Croatia, Another gem restaurant off the city port which is newly
which also forms part of the Dalmatian diet. decked with old ship and submarine parts! The cuisine
is a fusion of Mediterranean and Peruvian with ingredi-
2Ribara ents from local producers. Dishes such as Octopus with
A great, shaded terrace by the side of the cheery yel- cream of Kalamata olives or Chicken sliced marmalade la
low courthouse, with a good selection of Dalmatian and Parmigiana are top sellers. Desserts are equally as good!
Croatian classics as well as pizzas. Reasonable prices - a This combined restaurant/lounge bar also has live per-
good place for lunch to break up a day’s sightseeing. It’s formances and DJs for entertainment.QC‑1, Obala kneza
a hard life!!QC‑3, Blaža Jurjeva 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 34 45, Branimira 6a, tel. (+385-23) 30 15 20, Open 11:00 - 23:00. (35 - Open 08:00 - 23:30. (50 - 205kn). P­i ­A­E­G­B­
150kn). P­A­B­X X­W

Bistro Gourmet Kalelarga Kaštel
Decorated with simple, but classy off-white walls and Located in the 13th century Venetian Kaštel (Hotel Bastion)
tables, this bistro offers great seasonal foods, such as in the old Zadar centre, the menu oozes Dalmatian cuisine
asparagus dishes, a great variety of wines and delicious and creative modern culinary trends.
sweets. A warning for all the carnivores - the meat dishes Try the fresh fish, homemade bread and pasta filled with
are to-die-for! Try out the veal cutlet or beefsteak with a various creams. If you want local gastronomy, look no fur-
side of grilled vegetables or some savoury fried potatoes, ther! Restaurant Kaštel is located at Hotel Bastion, a new
polished off with a glass of wine made by locals from the member of the luxurious Relais & Châteaux association.
Zadar region. For dessert, don’t miss out on tasting the QB‑2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13, tel. (+385-23) 49
fantastic chocolate pistachio pie. Stop by and you won’t 49 50, Open 07:00 - 23:00. (60 -
be disappointed.QC‑3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 23 30 190kn). P­i ­A­L­G­B­X­W
00, Open 07:00 - 24:00.
(60 - 122kn). P­i ­A­G­B­X­W Kornat
Delightfully modern and refined with a classy offering of
Bon Appetit inland and Dalmatian specialities and a great wine list, this
A lovely modern interior with a rustic/pastel feel that place really is in a class of its own in the Old Town. Inven- Proto Food&More
oozes comfort! Bon Appetit is all about the food and wine tive, top quality cuisine - we were delighted with the black Having opened earlier in the year, Proto is turning heads
on offer and that means lots of Dalmatian and Mediterra- risotto.QB‑2, Liburnska obala 6, tel. (+385-23) 25 45 01, with its excellent reviews on social media thanks to the
nean tradition with modern interpretations. Open day and Open 12:00 - 24:00. (75 - all-round experience offered. Informed and friendly staff,
night, visitors can pop in for refreshments or for a meal. 190kn). P­J­A­6­G­B­X­W simple soothing decor, a Croatian/Dalmatian cuisine with
Fish, meat and dessert varieties are oh so popular here copious portions and at reasonable prices. Open from sun-
as well as top quality wine.QC‑4, Mihovila Pavlinovića Malo misto rise to sunset, you may need to book to get a seat here.
4, tel. (+385-23) 33 55 50, The “little place” is a pleasant bar and garden roštilj (grill), Check their Facebook site for specials, traditional Thurs-
Open 09:00 - 23:30. (65 - 240kn). P­i ­A­G­B­X­W lively and popular. Locals come to enjoy the food, at- days are a hit and the menu is pleasantly diversified with
mosphere and listen to Croatian music.QC‑3, Jurja Dal‑ wholesome meat to seafood to burgers to pašticada to
Bruschetta matinca - Matejeva 3, tel. (+385-23) 30 18 31, www. gnocchi to risotto and much more.QD‑3, Ulica Obitelji
The name says it all! The emphasis here is ‘homemade’ Open 11:00 - 24:00. (40 - 170kn). Stratico 1, tel. (+385-23) 38 64 31. Open 09:00 - 01:00.
and with quality products from the local Zadar region on P­A­G­B­X­W (65 - 110kn). P­i J­A­G­B­X­SW
hand, the range of food is varied from several types of br-
uschetta, to fish and meat carpaccio, as well as different Pet Bunara Marina Kornati Archives
types of pizza and pasta.QC‑4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 12, This charming restaurant greets its guests with an alluring
tel. (+385-23) 31 29 15, Open 11:00 and romantic atmosphere. It offers delicious contempo-
- 23:30. (60 - 130kn). P­J­A­G­B­X­W rary dishes, like ravioli safran and cold white fish with arti-
chokes or classical mediterranean meals, like fresh octopus
Groppo salad. Each dish is exquisitely arranged on a platter, that is
Located in the old town, the menu offers lots of pasta, not only appealing to the eye, but tastes great.
grill, seafood, and pizza which are well garnished. Veg- During this summer season, many dishes are served
etarians are also well accommodated. We recommend with figs, from slices of prosciutto, to steak in a fig sauce,
the homemade gnocchi! Reasonably priced!QC‑3, Široka to desserts, like queen lady fig cake. You’re in for a real
ulica 22, tel. (+385-23) 77 89 81/(+385-) 091 462 94 14, treat!QD‑3, Stratico ulica bb, tel. (+385-23) 22 40 10, Open 08:00 - 24:00. (75 - Open 11:00 - 23:00. (75 - 160kn).
200kn). P­i ­J­A­6­B­S­W P­A­6­G­B­S­W
Photo by Višnja Arambašić

14 Zadar In Your Pocket Summer 2017 15
Restaurants Restaurants
Konoba Lamb SYMBOL key
Konobas are the best places to experience typical Dalmatian The spit roast rules in Croatia. Macho men who would
cuisine. They were once the places where fishermen hung out otherwise not be seen dead in a pinny are happy to spend P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
and got someone else to cook their catch for them. hours lovingly tending rotating piglets. While pork forms
the substance of the inland diet, once you get the coast it’s T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled
Bistro Pjat much easier to find lamb, which Dalmatians rave about, be- B Outside seating L Guarded parking
Bistro Pjat is a small restaurant tucked in among the tiny cause the combination of salt winds, sunshine and strong
streets of Zadar’s old town. The food is typically mediter- herbs lends the meat a special flavour. Lamb from nearby S Take away 6 Pet-friendly
ranean, with fish, pasta and pizza on offer. Bistro Pjat was Pag Island is especially flavourful. Here are the best places
recently awarded the “Smiling Sun” for being the best to eat lamb roast on the spit (janjetina na ražnju) in and W Wifi J Old town location
restaurant/tavern in the city. With daily specials and an en- around Zadar.
ticing regular menu, Bistro Pjat is not to be missed.QC‑3,
Stomorica 10, tel. (+385-23) 21 39 19. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Anita Tamaris
Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (75 - 155kn). If you’re heading back inland or for the Paklenica National A large, modern restaurant in a small three star hotel. Char-
Park by the old, non-highway route, look for the village coal grilled specialities, including, yes, that holy of holies,
Rafaelo Zaton Obrovački, about half an hour’s drive from Zadar. roast lamb on the spit, and other Dalmatian food. A wide
On Put Dikla, the road to Borik. It’s got a rather special menu Here they make tasty lamb and pork roasted on spit as selection of Croatian wines. Deservedly popular.QO‑2,
with loads of top quality steaks prepared au naturel on a well as fresh, homemade bread cooked under the iron bell Zagrebačka 5, tel. (+385-23) 31 87 00, www.tamaris-
charcoal grill, or stuffed with things like scampi. Lamb, veal (ispod peke). If you drop in, you won’t regret it.QZaton Open 07:00 - 23:00. (50 - 150kn). P­A­
and fish cooked ispod peke are on offer as well.QH‑4, Obala Obrovački, Posedarje, tel. (+385-23) 68 93 50/(+385-) 6­U­L­G­B­X­W
kneza Trpimira 50, tel. (+385-23) 33 53 49. Open 10:00 - 091 582 85 85. Open 07:00 - 22:00. L­N­B
24:00. (50 - 150kn). P­A­L­G­B­X­S­W
Sabunjar Seafood
Skoblar Tipped by locals as one of the best places in town for lamb. Foša
Right next to Trg pet bunara, this konoba happens to be the Take the main road to Split and you’ll see it across the road One of the best places in the Old Town, not least for its romantic
oldest in the old city. Typical stone interior, they serve up the from hypermarkets Studenac and Getro.QJadranska 99, location with a wonderful terrace on the little Foša harbour, this
usual fish and meats specializing in foods cooked under an tel. (+385-23) 34 03 55. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (32 - 120kn). restaurant is well respected among locals for great fish.QD‑4,
iron bell. Also a nice selection of Croatian and foreign wines. P­A­L­G­B­X­W Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 44 21,
Live music most weekends too.QD‑3, Trg Petra Zoranića Open 12:00 - 01:00. (130 - 250kn). P­J­A­U­G­B­X­S­W
bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 32 36. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 -
Trattoria Canzona 24:00. (50 - 150kn). P­i ­J­A­6­G­B­X­S­W
Are you up for an excellent meal on the grill? Then head to
the Varoš district in Zadar where it’s hard to find a free seat Stomorica
come peak summer. Choose from rare to well done as Leo Named after the ruins of a little church, this is one of the
the owner has a copyright to all his genuine grill delicacies. oldest konobas in Zadar which used to offer hearty and
Meal sizes and prices are proportional.QC‑3, Sv. Nediljice healthy sardines to hungry patrons. Today, it’s a beautiful
2, tel. (+385-23) 21 20 81. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - place to eat out: still traditional in style, the menu has been
22:00. (55 - 150kn). P­J­A­G­B­X­W expanded to include most classic seafood dishes. The New
York Times rightly gives Stomorica a big thumbs up for its
good portions, decent prices and singing nights on Friday
Italian evening. A Zadar favourite for generations.QC‑3, Sto‑
Pašta & Svašta morica 12, tel. (+385-23) 31 59 46. Open 10:00 - 24:00.
This quaint bistro is beautifully decorated with a huge paint- (50 - 70kn). P­T­J­N­G­B­X­S­W
ing of the coast, along with flower pots adorning the walls.
As the name implies, they offer traditional Italian pasta Zadar - Jadera
dishes, such as Fusilli and Fettucini, as well as bruschetta, A konoba is a small place where fishermen would tell
octopus salad and many more delicious options.QD‑3, tales amongst a drop of wine after a good day’s catch. You
Poljana Šime Budinića 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 74 01, www. won’t find any fisherman here but the surroundings will Open 08:00 - 23:00. (35 - 120kn). P­i­ give you a pleasant sense of the sea, it’s small and intimate
J­A­6­G­B­X­W and if you’re after a typical home made cuisine then this
is a gem.QC‑2, Brne Krnarutića 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 18
Salsa Rossa 59, Open 10:00 - 23:00. (70 -
Satisfy your desire for Italian cuisine with delicious pizza’s 100kn). P­J­A­G­B­X­W
made with mozzarella cheese, focaccia bread and other
Italian specialties. You can enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner
on their lovely terrace.QC‑3, Knezova Šubića Bribirskih 18,
tel. (+385-23) 25 05 14, Open 07:00 - inyourpocket
23:00. (75 - 120kn). P­A­G­B­X­W
16 Zadar In Your Pocket Summer 2017 17
Restaurants Restaurants
Taverna Diklo created family-friendly weekend menus at affordable prices,
A wonderful little tavern set on the waterfront that offers and also help to organize and host all manner of festivities. Breakfast
good-quality food with a variety of choice and ultra large QKožinska cesta 122, Kožino, tel. (+385-23) 28 32 99/
portions! A little tip - the seafood platters are highly praised. (+385-) 098 35 79 12, Open 11:00 - 23:00. Forum
The terrace seats are snapped up quickly so it’s best to book (75 - 140kn). P­T­A­6­L­G­B­X­W Difficult to find but do not let that deter you. This
in advance for prime positioning.QF‑3, Krešimirova obala small bakery type eatery is a snack haven and good
49, tel. (+385-23) 33 10 35. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (60 - 350kn). for on the go. We recommend the tasty quiche, focac-
P­A­L­G­B­S­W pag island cia bread and yummy bread rolls.QC‑3, Madijevaca
Boškinac 2, tel. (+385-23) 25 44 40. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (1 -
This eloquent family estate with a hotel, winery, and res- 60kn). P­N
Pizza taurant on the island of Pag is the perfect getaway for a
Pizza is so ubiquitous it surely must count as a national food tranquil holiday. We kid you not, they pay attention to ev-
in Dalmatia by now. But that’s no bad thing. Pizza is quick, ery detail. Elegant rooms, a succulent and exclusive menu There’s no doubt you will leave their tasting room and
inexpensive - and yummy. with many fresh island ingredients. The konoba (tavern) tavern with an unforgettable experience!QPunta Skala
has excellent cheese, prosciutto and sardines. Pricey but bb, Petrčane, tel. (+385-23) 64 41 93, www.kraljevski-
Mamma Mia worthy!QNovaljsko polje bb, Novalja, Pag, tel. (+385-53) Open 13:00 - 24:00.
Located in a pleasant tree-shaded garden on Put Dikla, 66 35 00, Open 12:00 - 24:00. (145 -
the road that leads from central Zadar to the Borik resort 290kn). P­i ­A­6­L­G­B­X­W
area, this popular pizzeria is perfectly placed for a quick Sukošan
and economical post-beach feed. Mamma Mia’s pizza Kaleta
toppings are a bit more generous than the thin smears of petrčane Kaleta means “alley” in Dalmatian dialect, and this 300
tomato you get in some other Italian-influenced establish- Kraljevski Vinogradi year old former prison has a warren of stone passages that
ments around town. We ordered a Quattro Stagioni and Located in Punta Skala in central Dalmatia, Kraljevski vinogra- lead you to the seating areas. They have a 38 year old Elek-
three out of its four seasons turned out to be pretty tasty. di (the Royal Vineyards) gets its name from a royal deed from trolux fridge which still works, and reckon it’s the 2nd old-
And by the time we got onto the last quarter of the pie we the 11th century that bequeathed the vineyard to a Benedic- est in existence! Great food – try their Pašticada – Dalma-
were full anyway. The grilled meat dishes are also worth tine monastery from Zadar. While the vineyards today are tian beef in a rich sauce served with home made gnocchi
trying.QH‑3, Put Dikla 54, tel. (+385-23) 33 42 46, www. less than a decade old, the traditions and connections to – order a day in advance.QTrg 10, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23) Open 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - history have remained. Royal Vineyards uniquely specializes 39 40 31/(+385-) 091 182 34 37. Open 17:00 - 24:00. (70 -
180kn). P­T­A­6­U­G­B­X­S­W in premium grape varieties from Dalmatia — Pošip, Plavac 200kn). P­T­A­U­L­E­G­B­S­W
Lungo Mare Mali and Crljenak.
Located on the Lungo Mare, a road that winds picturesque- Šime
ly around the indented coastline north of the peninsula, the A large, friendly and trendy place, beloved by locals for su-
terrace of this restaurant is a lovely spot to relax during the perb pizza, pasta and salads. Šime is also famed for great
day or evening. Food is prepared from fresh ingredients, pancakes and ice cream. A terrace, plenty of parking and
and the restaurant’s specialities include delicacies made an underground garage to keep your lil’ baby out of the
with fresh truffles from Istria.QJ‑4, Obala kneza Trpimira sun.QG‑2, Matije Gupca 15, Puntamika (Borik), tel. (+385-
23, tel. ( +385-23) 23 09 75, Open 23 ) 33 48 48, Open 12:00 -
10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn). P­T­A­L­G­B­X­W 24:00. (30 - 100kn). P­6­L­N­G­B­X­S­W

Niko Tri bunara
Popularly called ‘kod Erika’ by locals, this restaurant is located on This golden oldie is set in the heart of town and maintains
the seaside by Marina Borik and offers a superb choice of fresh a rustic appeal with the classic red and white chequered
fish. Savour some grilled sea bass and squid or try out a tuna tablecloths. Succulent juicy thin based pizzas with plenty
carpaccio salad. Rumoured to have the best shrimp pasta in of Mediterranean influenced ingredients. Although busy,
town, this is a gastronomic heaven for fish lovers.QG‑5, Obala it has its intimate appeal. Perfectly priced!QB‑3, Trg tri bu‑
kneza Domagoja 9, tel. (+385-23) 33 78 88, www.hotel-niko. nara, tel. (+385-23) 25 03 90. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00
hr. Open 12:30 - 24:00. (90 - 190kn). P­A­6­L­G­S­W - 23:00. (37 - 72kn). P­i ­T­J­6­N­G­B­X­S­W

Martinac Archives
Out of town

Pineta is a sprawling mediterranean restaurant located in a
fragrant pine forest a few kilometres outside of Zadar. Two
years ago the restaurant was redesigned to better accommo-
date increased demand and to raise the profile for their savvy
clientele. While still specializing in meat and fish, Pineta has
18 Zadar In Your Pocket Summer 2017 19
Restaurants Local Flavour
The inhabitants of Zadar live in a fertile horn of plenty. Not
only do the locals have the obvious benefit of fresh fish on
their doorstep, the city is also backed by a broad belt of land
named Ravni kotari – “the flat counties”. Here a combination of
sun and rain, rich soil and a clean environment provides great
conditions for growing tasty fruit and vegetables. In Zagreb’s
open-air markets many a stallholder puts forth a sign proudly
proclaiming “Produce of Zadar” to attract buyers with an eye
for good food.

Changes wrought over the last decades mean that food pro-
duction today is nothing near what it once was. In places like
Vrana, Žegar and Islam Grčki, acres and acres where tomatoes,
cabbages and watermelons once grew lie uncultivated. A tale
we heard about Islam Grčki tells how the inhabitants in the
1980s, after spending the summer in the markets of Rijeka
and Krk selling their wares, would bring home their cash and
throw it on the big weighing scales to see who had brought
most home.

However, a trip to Zadar’s market is still a mouth-watering
experience. The fish market is a delight, built right into the city
ramparts at the spot where the fishing trawlers land with their
catch. As well as lush lettuces and crisp chard, you’ll find citrus
fruits and kiwis from the islands, fresh and dried figs, home-
made olive oil and cut flowers straight from the garden.

Apart from the riches of the fertile plains and seas, Zadar’s
Kod Guste gastronomic identity is shaped by the mountains you see to Photo by Višnja Arambašić
A very popular place: authentic, with a friendly atmo- Vinjerac the north. From there comes the tradition of rearing sheep
sphere and reasonable prices (reservations are therefore Konoba Pece and goats. Both the meat and the milk are the basis of some Lowlands, highlands and islands
recommended). Try the crni rižoto (risotto with squid ink). We heartily recommend Pece as one of the best konobas of the Zadar region’s most interesting specialities. In springtime the land from the water’s edge to the foot
QRudina 10, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23) 39 33 03. Open in the region, with a lovely view from a little hilltop. The of the mountains is crawling with folks hunting for aspara-
16:00 - 23:00. (65 - 250kn). P­A­G­B­W homely interior was hand crafted by the owner himself, who Let’s get a little bit specific. What should you look out for if gus. This wild asparagus, pleasantly bitter in taste, is much
also is your chef. He whips up aromatic dishes full of local you’d like to try the authentic food of the Zadar region? prized lightly sautéed with scrambled eggs as a fritaja.
Portus Beach Club & Restaurant flavour and with a personal touch: his seafood dishes are
The newest sensation on Croatia’s shoreline is the Portus true delicacies. To get to the delightful little coastal hamlet The coast A speciality from this region is vara – chickpeas cooked
Beach Club, a luxurious venue comprising of two restau- of Vinjerac, take the Zagreb road and turn left just before the The obvious place to start. In Zadar’s restaurant’s you can’t in water with kidney beans, a local bean called jari grah
rants; a bar and kids play area. The complex is central to Maslenica bridge. Book in advance.QPrilaz Drage 2, Vinjer‑ miss fish grilled over charcoal or cooked in a tomatoey bru- and sweetcorn, very simply, served just with olive oil. It’s
one of the best marinas on the Adriatic which has also ac, tel. (+385-23) 27 50 69/(+385-) 098 33 14 03. Open 16:00 det sauce. Then there’s risottos, of which crni rižot with black the perfect remedy when you’ve overdone things, purging
been awarded with the prestigious Blue Flag. There are - 24:00. (75 - 120kn). P­A­6­U­L­V­G­B­X­S­W squid ink may qualify as the most interesting. And seafood your blood of cholesterol and other naughties.
deck chairs and parasols for sunbathing on the pontoons prepared na buzaru with white wine, garlic and parsley.
and the venue oozes in style and class!QBibinje - Sukošan Simply delicious. Lest you get the wrong idea, Zadar’s interior is a fiercely
1, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23) 20 03 50. Open 07:30 - 00:30. carnivorous land. On the light side, you might get a turkey
Look out for the most inexpensive fish; sardines, anchovies (tuka) roasted peka style, under an iron lid heaped with
Salsa Rossa Archives and other small fish, deep fried or preserved in salt or oil and embers. Local turkeys are small and athletic, very different
vinegar. And Zadar, which has centuries of close contact with from the big white industrially-farmed birds. Roasted like
Budget Italy, is no bad place for a simple meal of pizza or pasta. this with potatoes they’re succulent and delicious.

Obelix What do people eat at home? Fried fish or squid on Fridays, Then there’s lamb and kid goat. It’s odd that goat meat is lit-
Good warm sandwiches (popular round here, try them!) definitely. On special occasions, salt cod cooked a million dif- tle eaten in much of Europe since it’s almost indistinguish-
and the usual fast food stuff. With late opening hours, it’s a ferent ways, such as na bijelo – with garlic, parsley, white wine able from lamb except it’s less greasy (and certainly more
good place to pick up a bite if you’re drinking in Borik or on and potatoes. This might be followed by pašticada – beef healthy). In the highland regions smoked kid goat is an
your way home after a night out in town. Rich and healthy studded with carrots, garlic and smoked bacon and stewed especial delicacy, usually stewed with vegetables in a dish
breakfast added to menu recently.QG‑2, A.G.Matoša 6, with wine and prunes. On Sundays, meat cooked na lešo in named kaštradina. Weddings, birthdays and Christmas are
Borik, tel. (+385-) 099 334 96 55. Open 09:00 - 24:00, a soup with vegetables, an all-in-one dish that just needs a unimaginable in these parts without a roast lamb or goat.
Sat, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. (9 - 40kn). G­B­X­W green salad to round it off. On workdays, pašta fažol – bean Both are also prepared lešo style on an everyday basis. Beef
stew with pasta, is a popular filler. and pork don’t figure much on the traditional menu.
20 Zadar In Your Pocket Summer 2017 21
Local Flavour Local Flavour
Maraschino liqueur
Island lamb is particularly prized, notably that from Kornati Zadar’s Maraska factory moved a few years back to new
and Pag where the animals graze on wild herbs laced with technologically-advanced premises but it’s former home,
salt from the wind. Pag is the centre of Croatia’s cheese in- a beautiful lemon building on the seafront, is one of the
dustry; a good mature Pag cheese is not dissimilar to Par- best-loved things in Zadar, as are its products. The com-
mesan. At the other end of the cheesy spectrum, a product pany was founded in 1768 as a distiller of Maraschino
called skuta is only edible in the first few days of its life at liqueur – a sweet, clear spirit made from Maraschino cher-
the beginning of the cheese-making process. It’s a light ries which grow well in this climate. The Maraschino cherry
curd cheese, sweetish in flavour, perfect for spreading on is small, sourish and not too meaty – it’s not so great for
bread or for desserts, all the more so as it’s low in fat. You’ll eating. But it makes wonderfully aromatic liqueur and is
find it on Pag island and also made by families in the hinter- great in cakes and juices. Still available in the same basket-
land, but rarely elsewhere as it doesn’t keep for long. wrapped bottle as at the beginning of the 19th century,
Maraschino liqueur makes a great gift or souvenir.
You probably won’t find food like this in Zadar itself. To get
a broader picture of the cuisine of the region, we highly Salt fish
recommend you take a jaunt inland and keep an eye out for In times past, the only way of preserving fish was to salt it.
a family-run restaurant or a seosko domaćinstvo – a rural Sardines, the most easily accessible fish, were salted by ev-
smallholding that serves home-grown food to guests. Or ery family and kept in storage. Nowadays the sardine has
head to Benkovac where there are several culinary festivals been usurped by the smaller anchovy, which most people
each year. know from other Mediterranean cuisines. It’s a tasty ingre-
dient in starters, pizzas, pastas and sauces.
Cod in Croatia is almost always salted; fresh cod is very
Food Market little used. Salt cod features in many traditional dishes but
City Market (Pijaca) it comes from the cold northern waters. The tradition of
In most Dalmatian towns the market is a sight for sore eating salt cod was imported to Catholic southern Europe
E@T, Eat Food in the digital age, Taste and Travel Festival Archives eyes, and Zadar’s is one of the biggest and best. It’s been centuries ago since it could be stored for meatless Fridays.
here since the Middle Ages, but the large open space If your travels take you to Kali on the island of Dugi Otok,
dates back to WWII, when many buildings were flattened keep an eye out for salt tuna which isn’t made anywhere
in this part of town. Some around the edge of the square else in Croatia. Kali is the centre of Croatia’s fishing industry
foodie’s guide individual plants and animals from the area, are only just being reconstructed. The outside stalls are and most tuna is landed here.
different salt crystals, the tools used back in yonder to where you’ll find mouthwatering displays of fruit, vegeta-
24.06 » A feast of mussels in Novigrad those used today, processes and the panning of salt bles, fresh herbs and more... all locally grown and burst- Samphire
Welcome to mussel paradise where you can treat from the sea to the salt shaker, salt in cosmetics and ing with flavour. Little old ladies (bakice) also sell home At the water’s edge, especially where it’s rocky, if you spot
yourself with fresh juicy mussels for as long as you can skin care, and that’s just a pinch of salt in regards to made olive oil, rakija and cheese – usually far better than a green plant with succulent branching leaves, break off a
handle. Novigrad has long been known for its mussels what can be seen.QThe Nin Salt Works Museum and the shop-bought equivalent. The indoor meat market is little and sniff it. If it has a faint herbal tang, chances are it’s
as they were exported to other parts of Europe after Shop, Ilirska cesta 7, to one side of the square, and the fish market is opposite, rock samphire (Crithmum maritimum). Known locally at
WW2. These days, any connoisseurs of shellfish claim coolly located inside the city walls. Proud locals claim it’s motar, it’s rather little used in cooking these days but is re-
that the mussels from this area are the best in the 15.08 - 15.09 » Fig Festival the best fish market on the coast. To one side is a section of gaining popularity thanks to the wild food movement. The
Adriatic; delicious and full of meat.QNovigrad, www. If olives are the vegetable of Dalmatia, then figs are the market for cheap clothes and bric-a-brac, great if you story goes that in the Second World War people had little the fruits of Dalmatia! That being said, having an entire need an emergency pair of flip-flops or a cheap snorkel. other than samphire to eat, so they became mighty sick of
festival dedicated to this devoured fruit is no exaggera- Hours of fun browsing, bargaining and banter.QC‑2, Pod it. But it’s fantastic cooked and served as a vegetable side
15.07 - 16.07 » Šokolijada tion.This is the 10th jubilee year of the event with the Bedemom bb. dish with a delightful herby taste. It’s even better pickled,
For those who prefer delicacies such as smoked ham true highlight on the 7th and 8th of September. Sample and has saved the life of many a sailor through history –
and bacon, this international and gastronomic event dishes you’d never dream of with figs. By the end of this, with its high vitamin content it was taken on long voyages
is a meaty taste bud grenade. Not only that, it helps you’ll not only be tasting figs but dreaming figs; you’ll Local dishes to prevent scurvy.
preserve a 17th century tradition from Nin which is never see figs in the same light again! Kaštradina
all about the process of salting, spicing, marinating, Perhaps the most iconic traditional food of this region, the Croatian Farm Products Fair Archives
smoking and drying pork neck. Competition is fierce 24.08 - 27.08 » Taste and Travel Festival 2017 dish known in modern Croatia as kaštradina was called
with ancestral recipes at stake but it’s all in good fun. The new Taste and Travel Festival puts Croatia on the castradina Schiavona during Venetian times, the same as
It’s a true ‘dig in and savour’ session. Prestige for some, world map of innovations in food industry and be- the basket-hilted schiavona sword. It is thought that both
a hearty meal for others!QNin, yond. The idea behind the event is to connect young earned their name from the soldiers from Dalmatia and
people and entrepreneurs with the market and to cre- the Balkans who fought bravely to protect the Venetian
03.08 » The Festival of Salt ate space for the development of new ideas and direc- lands. Anyway, kaštradina in the Zadar region is usually
The Nin Salt Works (Solana Nin) is a rarity in today’s tions. See the latest in world trends and the future of smoked mutton or goat meat cooked in sauerkraut. You’ll
world as it is one of the last few sites where salt is pro- culinary! The Taste and Travel Festival in Zadar will be find it in the hinterland and on Pag island in winter, the
duced ‘au naturel’, whilst keeping the local flora and presented throughout time when fresh meat is scarce. It’s a warming dish that is
fauna intact. This festival showcases various dioramas, tasteandtravelzadar/. great washed down with strong local red wine

22 Zadar In Your Pocket Summer 2017 23
Local Flavour Coffee & Cakes
The Zadar region has an excellent microclimate for grow- The town of Benkovac was until recently best known in
ing wine. The majority of the wine-growing areas are in commercial winegrowing terms for Rosé Benkovac. How-
the Ravni kotari plains behind the city and in the Bukovica ever, the winemaking conglomerate that owns the Benko-
uplands a little further north. There’s also smaller-scale pro- vac winery has planted large amounts of French vines in
duction on the region’s islands, notably Pag. Much of the the village of Korlat and now offers pricey bottles of Syrah,
production is still on a family scale, the products reserved Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot throughout Croatia under
for family and friends. However, the delicate shoots of the Korlat brand.
change are visible like small tendrils on a vine: a number
of award-winning small winegrowers have been emerging Interestingly, a number of small wine growers are starting
over the last few years. up production nurturing indigenous grape varieties and
high-quality, sustainable production methods. One is Šime
Vinograd Benkovac by Ivo Dunatov, TZ Zadar Photonet Archives Škaulj in Nadin. He produces the local Maraština variety,
a light, fruity wine perfect for summer drinking. He also of-
fers Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and a Cuvée blend.
All his wines are certified organic, and his Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon 2010 and 2011 are Decanter magazine silver medal
winners. It seems French vines are fond of the local soils.

Not far away in Smilčić, Mladen Anić also produces a fine
Maraština as well as a clutch of red wines including Cr-
ljenak, a heritage grape variety that is a genetic parent of

Closer to Benkovac at the tiny village of Podgrađe near
the Roman ruins of Asseria, Božo Bačić is also a certified
organic winegrower. His dessert wine, Asseria, has won nu-
merous awards including the Decanter World Wine Awards
Silver Medal.
Kraljevski vinogradi Punta Skala Archives Another dessert wine from the Benkovac area is yellow
muscat (muškat žuti) from the MasVin plantation at Polača
(between Benkovac and Biograd). Muškat žuti is usually
grown inland, but the wine has done well here, as its sum-
mery straw and acacia nose suggests. Also certified organic, Coffee & Cake Zadar Archives
you can pick up this company’s wine (which also includes
Crljenak, Merlot and Syrah) in the region’s supermarkets at
refreshingly reasonable prices - around 30-35 kn. Look out coffee Forum
also for MasVin’s award-winning olive oil. Callegro A fine location on the Kalelarga. The shaded terrace is
The locals say that this café has the best coffee in the city. blessed by the twin attractions of St Donatus’, the most
Moving on to Pag island, Gegić is a native white that the We shall add that there are a few other cafes nearby that famous symbol of Zadar, and the Forum. Cake. Mmmm-
locals grow in quantity. The scant, limestone terrain bathed provide strong competition to such remarks, but what mmmmm.QC‑3, Široka ulica 18, tel. (+385-) 099 266 88
in sunshine produces a fairly heady brew. A fabulous place Callegro has over its rivals is the most beautiful view at 50. Open 07:00 - 01:00. P­T­A­G­B­X­W
to try this and other wines is the Boškinac hotel and win- the old Roman Forum. From its position, you can also kick
ery just outside Stara Novalja. The house wine is gorgeous back and watch other people strolling through the famous Guam
yet affordable, and though their bottled wines are far from street Kalelarga!QC‑3, Široka ulica 18, www.callegro. Has one of the most luxurious terraces for sitting by the
cheap (starting at 200kn) they are well worth splashing out com/. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. P­N­G­ sea, drinking great coffee and watching the sun go down.
on (pun absolutely intended). Boškinac wines are rarely B­X­W QF‑3, Krešimirova obala 47, tel. (+385-) 098 981 33 05.
less than 15% alcohol, but this writer spent a memorable Open 07:00 - 01:00. P­N­B­X­W
night at Boškinac (my wedding, no less) drinking outra- Cogito Coffee Shop
geous quantities of the stuff with friends. Come morning Creating top quality coffee and all that is deemed ritual Illy Concept Bar
every single one of us was fresh as a daisy, a testament to about coffee! Cogito is new on the block with its home in New and refreshing this café tucked away in the new
the extraordinary high quality of these wines. Zagreb. This is their second store and they have brought shopping center on R. Boškovića Street, offers some re-
their winning concept to Zadar with cocktails, craft beers, ally colorful specialty drinks, Illy coffee and a chilled out
teas and natural juices as added refreshments to soak up atmosphere. Indoor and outdoor seating, a nice place to that summer sizzle.QC‑2, Poljana pape Aleksandra III B, relax and have a conversation.QD‑3, Ruđera Boškovića 4.
zadarinyourpocket Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - Open 07:00 - 01:00. P­T­B­X­W
24:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. P­J­B­S­W
24 Zadar In Your Pocket Summer 2017 25
Coffee & Cakes Nightlife
The best location on Narodni trg, next to the City Sentinel,
the interior is actually a former church. Relax by day and
experience the fun in Lovre by night with regular live gigs
and DJ performances.QC‑3, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-23)
21 26 78. Open 07:00 - 01:00. P­6­N­G­B­X­W

Funky interior with bright colors and plenty of sunlight
during the day. Phenomenal view as this café is right
on the beach at Kolovare. This place has all the regular
beverages a café offers in Croatia, and is a great place to
watch the sunset. Nice coffee mugs too.QO‑6, Karma 7a,
Gourmet Kalelarga Archives Kolovare, tel. (+385-23) 31 52 75. Open 07:00 - 01:30.

art cake shop
Sweet treats
Mirjana Pilipović - A pastry chef Art Kalelarga
What better way to put the icing on the cake of your stay
ZIYP: Where did you find inspiration in becoming than by gobbling down some amazing cake combina-
a confectioner? tions. From authentic zadar maraška to fig and cheese-
Mirjana: I always found inspiration in things that were cakes that spell art deco meets sweeeettt! Ohh, and if you
new and different. So I wanted to do something with are out and about this time of year, make sure you try the
sweets that was missing in the city of Zadar. amazing asparagus cake.QC‑3, Majke Margarite 3, tel. Photo by GOXMAG, Papaya Archives
(+385-23) 23 30 00, Open
​ IYP: What are your favourite flavour combina-
Z 07:00 - 24:00. P­A­G­B­X­W Backstage Bar
tions? On warm evenings, everybody is outside. Sitting on bench- Entertainment for all lovers of the 1950s and ‘60s. Reinvig-
Mirjana: Joining what is traditional and modern has Coffee & Cake es and promenading the street (the Italian Corzo) are hab- orating the atmosphere of New Orleans or even the spirit
always been a big challenge, for example chocolate Since its opening in 2016, the assortment of classic its that still linger. Zadar's nightlife is neither sceney nor of Frank Sinatra with the swingy jazzy sound is what it’s all
and asparagus, lavender and cinnamon, olive oil and cakes, croissants and desserts offered have become a fav divided into old and young, so in most places you'll find an about! Lots of Croatian artists and bands are locked in for
chocolate, rosemary and honey... amongst the locals. The added distinction here are the unpretentious mix of people. summer gigs, so stay tuned for more news!QL‑3, Andrije
raw cakes that are made and not baked; they are prepped Hebranga 9, tel. (+385-) 091 222 07 68. Open 07:00 -
ZIYP: Which desserts with authentic ingredients from natural ingredients and they look so scrumptious While the Old Town is an atmospheric place to spend your 23:00. P­T­6­E­N­G­B­X­W
would you recommend to our guests? that few can resist. Choose to dine in or soak up the sun evenings, you can also spend time in places like Borik, Diklo
Mirjana: There is a wide variety of such desserts but with seating available outdoors.QC‑3, Ulica Braće Vran‑ and Kolovare, to catch the sea breeze and watch the sun go Cafe Gallery Gina
we’ll narrow it down to a few; the Zadar cake, Rose- janina 14, tel. (+385-) 091 302 81 10. Open 07:00 - 23:00, down. Zadar's sunsets are supposed to be the best in the Wildly popular after dark, good music, a tiny art gallery
mary cake, Pag Rhapsody, Kalelarga cake and of course Sun 08:00 - 23:00. J­G­B­X­W world. Apparently, Alfred Hitchcock agreed. and an older crowd all crammed into a little space in an
desserts with cherry maraschino. atmospheric stone street.QC‑3, Varoška 2. Open 07:00 -
Danica Those of you wanting a little more will nevertheless not be 01:30. P­J­A­6­G­B­X­W
ZIYP: Which homemade ingredient do you feel A sparklingly modern cafe and slastičarnica, very popu- disappointed. Young Croatians are a pretty cosmopolitan
isn’t being used as much but could make for a lar because of good homemade cakes and pastries from lot, and you would be surprised how urban the culture is. Dolce Vita
great dessert? the local factory in Arbanasi. Opposite the National The- Indeed popular with those who appreciate la dolce vita, i.e.
Mirjana: These are: figs, rosemary, lavender etc. atre.QC‑3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 10 16, www. the trendy crowd.QC‑4, Matice Dalmatinske 6, tel. (+385-) Open 07:00 - 24:00. P­A­G­B Hangin’ out 091 553 97 27. Open 18:30 - 01:30. P­J­6­N­B­X­W
ZIYP: What will all the new Art Cake Shop offer? Arkada
Mirjana: When we first began selling our confection- Donat A covered terrace with a wooden deck and comfy couch- Famous Bar
aries and cakes five years ago, we always tried to intro- Many Zadar folks reckon this to be the best ice cream es, very popular with the teeny crowd.QD‑3, Ruđera The latest new kid on the block in Zadar is the ‘Famous’
duce some new types of novelties. With the opening in town. The cookie dough flavour is a carnival of sinful Boškovića 6, tel. (+385-) 098 44 96 02. Open 07:00 - beach bar and grill which is getting the thumbs up from
of our new cake shop we continue with our novelties pleasure.QB‑3, Trg Sv.Stošije 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 08 29/ 01:30. B­W locals. Open from morning till night, ‘Famous’ is a beach
and the extended offer. I have chosen not to give away (+385-) 098 917 51 00, Open 07:00 - bar, pub, restaurant and night club, all in one. It sits along
any of my sweet secrets for now, but I do know and am 23:00. July - August 15th Open 07:00 - 24:00. P­N­ Arsenal the Borik Beach and has a Caribbean feel and design to it
100% sure that the new cake shop will not ‘disappoint. G­B­W During the summer season Arsenal works as event venue with a large terrace and sun loungers also. Beer, who said
with offer of different concerts of famous bands or mu- beer? Choose from over 200 types of beer from across the
ZIYP: And in the end what would be your mantra Iva sicians.QB‑2, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 33/ globe and an amazing range of wines, cocktails and other
or philosophy? Good ice cream up for grabs right on Narodni trg.QC‑3, (+385-) 099 210 33 09, Open beverages, as well as a wide selection of different meals.
Mirjana: People always need to experiment and con- Narodni trg 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 11 21. Open 07:00 - for organized concerts and special events, so it’s best QF‑4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 63 62 23/
nect what’s disconnected. 01:00. P­N­G­B­W to keep track via the web. P­T­J­E­N­B­K­W (+385-) 092 288 33 10, Open
07:00 - 01:30. T­A­6­L­G­B­X­W
26 Zadar In Your Pocket Summer 2017 27
Nightlife Nightlife
caping the hot sun. Choose to chill on one of three terraces go dancers, state of the art sound, VIP service and more.
Kult Toni where you can indulge in some live music and concerts The club is situated directly on Zrce beach which makes
Has a gorgeous terrace in a little park with a stone balus- On Mihe Klaića, a tiny street which, come sundown, is one of as well as huge theme party nights.QD‑3, Perivoj kraljice it the perfect summer getaway. So come on down for a
trade. A popular hangout with locals.QC‑3, Stomorica 6a, the most popular hangouts. Thus, the outside benches at Toni Jelene Madijevke, tel. (+385-) 098 63 07 60, www. few days to remember!QZrće beach, Novalja, Pag island,
tel. (+385-) 099 430 90 91. Open 07:00 - 02:00. P­J­ are always busy, and are a great location for rubbing shoulders Open 08:00 - 04:00. P­A­6­B­X­W tel. (+385-) 091 561 51 03, Open
A­6­B­X­W and checking out the talent. A great view of the attractive 16:00 - 20:00, 23:00 - 06:00. A­B­X­C­W
little church, St Michael’s, opposite.QD‑3, Mihe Klaića 6, tel. The Garden
La Bodega Zadar (+385-23) 31 68 47. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. Opened by two members of Brit reggae outfit UB40 this Saturnus
Conveniently located in the heart of the Old City, this is a P­T­J­6­N­G­B­X­W spectacular garden atop the city walls used to be the cool- A huge and popular nightclub (the biggest on the Croatian
great spot for drinking some superb wine. This chic and est hangout in the former Yugoslavia. Now, coolly mini- coast), within the Zaton Holiday Resort, with DJ parties
trendy wine bar at night also offers a breakfast and brunch Vinyl bar malist with ultra-comfortable loungers, it’s a perfect place and animation shows at weekends.QZaton Holiday Re‑
menu for the early birds to enjoy the sights and sounds With its cool vibe, great music and pleasant ambience, this bar for enjoying drinks, sunshine, views, a game of chess and sort, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 80, Open
of the most popular street, Kalelarga, by day.QC‑3, Kale‑ is an excellent place to sit and relax whilst polishing off a beer or hot summer nights to the tune of nu jazz, dub, latin, breaks Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 22:00 - 04:00. P­L­N­G­B­X­W
larga - Široka ulica, tel. (+385-) 099 462 94 40, www. sipping on coffee throughout the day. And when day turns to and downtempo electronica.QB‑2, Bedemi zadarskih Open 07:00 - 01:30, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. night, the bar transforms into a club where the tempo rises till pobuna bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 31, www.thegarden. Papaya Archives
P­i ­T­J­A­G­B­X­W the late hours.QB‑1, Obala Kneza Trpimira 4, tel. (+385-) 091 hr/. Open 10:30 - 01:30. J­A­6­U­B­X­W
321 08 80. Open 07:00 - 01:30. P­T­6­N­G­B­X­W
One of the coolest chill-out spots for a slightly older crowd. Yachting Bar Clubs
After sundown, comfy cushions are strewn on the steps by A super, modern bar by the Borik marina, with a great selection Kocka bar
St Anastasia’s cathedral.QB‑3, Trg Sv. Stošije 3, tel. (+385- of drinks and a terrace with live music. Recommended for easy Next to the rowing club and right on Jazine Bay with a
23) 25 08 51. Open 07:00 - 24:00. P­N­G­B­X­W early evening drinking. Sail into the cordially named Yachting beautiful view of Stari Grad. Whether you’re a fan of funk,
Bar in case you are feeling peckish. It offers croissants, hot and rock or pop music, you will love this place with live bands
Q Bar cold sandwiches, toasts, and all the other snacks one would and DJs hosting weekend nights.QC‑1, Obala kneza Bra‑
A good old thirst needs a good old beverage, so why not desire for immediate hunger satisfaction.QG‑5, Obala kneza nimira 64, tel. (+385-23) 31 36 29. Open 07:00 - 23:00,
visit one of the city’s pubs located at the very end of the Domagoja 1, Borik, tel. (+385-) 095 539 53 91. Open 06:30 - Fri, Sat 07:00 - 06:00. P­N­B­X­W
Zadar peninsula. No two nights are the same with differ- 03:00, Fri, Sat 06:30 - 05:00. P­N­B­X­W
ent gigs and genres filling the weekly timetable. Spacious Podroom
with a relaxed vibe and a snazzy view of the port and Podroom (meaning basement in English) is a night club
marina!QB‑2, Liburnska obala 6. Open 07:00 - 06:00. Cocktail bars and place for party goers who wish to live and let live!
P­T­N­G­B­X­W Beach & Cocktail Bar Bamboo Though open only on weekends with DJs as hosts, it can
This bar looks like a gigantic deck on the beach and is a great receive up to 400 guests and has special booths for a doz-
Rio Bar spot to sit back, relax and take in the wonderful sights of the en people max… plus a VIP room. So come and join in the
Walking distance from the town’s famous Sea Organ, this sea, local island and people. Open all day long, you can enjoy action!QE‑2, Obala kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-) 099
is one of the oldest and most famous bars in Zadar. Re- a drink anytime, from dawn to dusk. Start your day off with 749 84 51, Open Fri and Sat 00:00
furbished in 2014, ‘Rio Bar’ is truly unique as its main fo- some quiet meditation as you sip on your morning coffee. - 06:00. From July 15 - August 15 Open 00:00 - 06:00.
cus is on the 70s era; the sounds of rock, blues and disco In the afternoon, grab a drink with some friends and stretch P­J­A­E­G­W
echo inside its walls and on the cocktail bar terrace both out on a lounge chair under one of the numerous canopies
on weekdays and weekends. The bar’s slogan; ‘Where the made of palm branches. While in the evening, enjoy watch-
funky generation meets’ probably describes it well since ing the magnificent sunset, before dressing up and coming Out of town The Garden Club Zadar Archives

it has been a popular meeting place since 1988. So come out for a cocktail at night.QG‑5, Obala kneza Domagoja bb, Aquarius
and feel funky any time!QD‑4, Putevac 5, tel. (+385-) 095 Open 07:00 - 01:00. T­6­N­ If you’re looking for a true beach party in the Ibiza sense,
199 73 60. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. G­B­X­W head for the island of Pag. Just outside the town of No-
P­T­J­N­G­B­X­W valja is a beach called Zrće, a haven of white pebbles and
Mango Day & Night Club crystal sea. Aquarius, probably the best club in Zagreb, has
Teatro Bar This brightly-coloured bar is on the waterfront at Diklo, a little a superb space here, with places to eat and drink, home-
A great place to warm up and mingle while standing with a west of Zadar’s centre and opposite the Borik complex. It’s made ice cream, an aerobics club (daytime), and dancing
glass in your hand! The aura that surrounds is filled with fa- a lively place to mingle with a pleasantly mixed crowd and by night. The club is superbly equipped – cool off in the
mous quotes, staged masks and theatre curtains. ‘To be or enjoy a few expertly mixed cocktails, especially at sundown. bar area in a paddling pool. Quality.QZrće beach, Noval‑
not to be’, this is the place to be…QRuđera Boškovića 4, tel. QF‑3, Krešimirova obala 12, Diklo, tel. (+385-) 091 734 07 ja, Pag island, tel. (+385-53) 66 20 38,
(+385-) 091 734 07 69. Open 08:00 - 01:30. P­N­B­X­W 69. Open 08:00 - 04:00. P­6­L­N­B­X­W zrce. Open 00:00 - 24:00. A­6­L­B­K­C­W

The Factory bar Papaya
It is as if the interior had been mirrored from the TV series ‘Sex Lounge bars Clubbers and party goers, head on down to Papaya Club
and the City’. Original walls, TV monitors and the general décor Ledana Lounge bar which hosts two parties per day! Dance under the sun at
have wooed punters. It’s a bar in the city centre that guarantees Seeking an escape from the hustle and bustle, then head their pool parties or under the stars to the sounds of the
for a good time with a splash of urban music bellowing.QD‑3, to the Queen Jelena Park and visit Ledana, that is ‘icy’ in best world DJs and experience various genre festivals at
Rušera Boškovića 4, tel. (+385-) 097 730 26 62. Open 07:00 our lingo. It is totally new and out of this world, it has a their night parties. This open air beach club is also famous
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:30. P­A­B­X­W luminous icy blue mosaic like interior which is ideal for es- for its spectacular production, entertainment shows, go-
28 Zadar In Your Pocket Summer 2017 29
Sightseeing Sightseeing
Section of the National Museum, one of the most impor- The Riva
tant collections in the country, and worth seeing for the “Riva” is a generic word meaning “waterfront”, usually
rich colours of local national costumes, textiles (weaving a place to enjoy a stroll and a coffee in seaside towns.
and lace), jewellery, agricultural, fishing and household When people in Zadar talk about the Riva, they mean the
objects.QC‑3, Narodni trg, Open 09:00 - pleasant promenade on the edge of the Old Town penin-
20:00. Admission 20/10kn. sula called Obala Petra Krešimira IV, named after a Croa-
tian King. Until the 19th century, the space you see here
City Walls (Gradski bedemi) was occupied by an outer ring of fortifications, needed to
Once the largest city-fortress in the entire Republic of keep invaders at bay. When the Austrians took over the
Venice, Zadar’s walls allowed it to retain more of its inde- administration of Zadar in 1813, a period of peace began.
pendence than most of its neighbouring cities, and meant As well as founding the beautiful parks on top of parts of
that it was never captured by the Turks. Previously, there Zadar’s system of fortifications, they completely removed
were even more fortifications than there are now, but the outer ring. The Riva is beautifully planted with lawns,
what are left are put to good use, with delightful parks and flowers and palms, is the site of the stunning University
promenades on top of them (see below). Take a look inside building, and is a great place to stroll either in the evenings
doors such as the one on Five Wells Square – you can see or even to have a dip by day.QA/B/C‑4, Obala kralja Petra
huge empty spaces inside once used as military storage Krešimira IV.
facilities.On top of the bastion above the Harbour Gate is
a promenade called the Muraj – a peaceful vantage point
over the mainland opposite and the people crossing the Museums
bridge. One of the large yellow buildings up there is one of Archaeological Museum zadar
Zadar’s old newspaper presses.QC/D‑ 2. (Arheološki muzej zadar)
On the Forum square is the low, modern building of the
St Anastasia’s Cathedral (Katedrala sv. Archeological Museum, featuring artefacts from Zadar’s
St Anastasia’s Cathedral, Zadar Tourist Board Archives
Stošije) development from Prehistoric times through to the first
An attractive Romanesque cathedral - the biggest in Dal- Croatian settlements. For a chronological tour, it makes
Essential Zadar rule in Dalmatia, and has the form of a triumphal arch with matia - built during the 12th and 13th centuries. As with sense to go directly to the prehistoric exhibition on the
City Forum (Forum) a central passage for wheeled traffic, and two smaller side many Dalmatian churches, the belfry is separate. You can second floor, which covers decorative ceramics, weaponry
The Roman Forum - the largest on this side of the Adri- arches for pedestrians. It’s decorated with motifs such as climb to the top - the view is amazing. Two attractive ro- and items the seafaring Liburnians brought from Greece
atic - was founded by the first Emperor Augustus, as St Chrysogonus (Zadar’s main patron saint) on his horse, settes decorate the front portal, and a gallery of blind arch- and Italy. The first floor covers the Classical period, from
documented on two 3rd Century stone inscriptions on and the Shield of St Mark (the coat of arms of the Republic es the flanks, with a ledge above them providing seating the Romanised Liburnians (1st century BC) to the wides-
the site. A raised area on the west side was the site of a of Venice). Previously, the area had been highly defensive, for pigeons to look down on the throngs on the Kalelarga. cale Roman settlement (6th century AD). Artefacts include
temple dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. To one side with a surrounding moat. Simple stone blocks are lightened with decorative friezes,
a “Pillar of Shame“ still stands, where naughty people were Between the ferryport and market is the Sea Gate (also and the lovely stonemasonry around the doors is worth
chained and pilloried. (A second one was taken away and known as St Chrysogonus’ Gate, because of its proximity a careful look. Highlights of the interior include the stone barkarjoli
now stands near the Three Wells Square). The Forum also to the church of the same name), built in 1573 to celebrate ciborium covering the high altar, frescoes, an intricately Love gods take note. The most romantic way to visit
comprised a basilica and rooms for council chambers and the victory of the Christian fleet over the Turks at Lepanto. carved choir and an Early Christian mosaic in the sacristy. the Old Town for the first time is to catch the little red
citizens’ assemblies. Underneath was a colonnade where Near the bridge on the north side is the neo-Renaissance QB‑3, Trg svete Stošije. J rowing boat waiting, rain or shine, on a jetty by the
shops and workshops once stood. The site was only discov- Bridge Gate, knocked through by the Italians only 70 Tankerkomerc building on the mainland side of the
ered in the 1930s. Allied bombers inadvertently assisted in years ago, and leading directly to Narodni trg and the St Donatus’ Church (Crkva sv. Donata) footbridge. There has been a man in a rowing boat here
the clearing process, and site was completely cleared and Kalelarga. Further west, by the old Arsenal, is the fourth Imposing and austere, yet absolutely harmonius and origi- for 800 years. He’s getting a bit past it now, but these
restored between 1964 and ‘67. One of the most beautiful and smallest gate, named after St Rocco, connecting the nal in form, it’s not surprising that the pre-Romanesque Dalmatians are a hardy lot. Seriously, this is a famous lo-
things about these remains is the way that they are still a Three Wells Square with the harbour area.QD‑2. St Donatus’ is taken as the very symbol of Zadar and an cal sight, called the “barkarjol”, and apart from its charm,
part of the fabric of the city. No signs forbid you to touch or image of the unique spirit of Dalmatia. The circular shape the 100 metre trip across the Jazine bay saves you a
sit on the stones. Take time one evening to sit and imagine City Lodge (Gradska loža) is typical of the early Byzantine age in Dalmatia. It was twenty minute walk, and costs only 5kn.
the bustle of the traders, the grandeur of the pagan tem- Built by the same architect as the City Sentinel, this build- founded in the 9th century, when it was called the Church
ples and the horrors of the blood sacrifices that took place ing once was the city’s courthouse, council chambers and of the Holy Trinity, and given its present name six hundred
on the very altars you can see on this spot.QB‑3. library. With its huge windows and high ceilings, it nowa- years later in memory of a famous bishop. Religious servic-
days serves as a stunning exhibition space, hosting events es are no longer held here, but the stark interior has excel-
City Gates (Gradska vrata) such as the international photography triennial “Man and lent acoustics and is used as the concert venue for the an-
The city walls have had several entrances knocked the Sea” and the triennial of contemporary Croatian art nual International Festival of Medieval Renaissance Music,
through them at more confident points in Zadar’s history. “The Blue Salon”.QD‑3, Narodni trg, Open also known as ‘The Musical Evenings in St Donatus’.QB‑3,
Some of them were walled up for good, but four remain as 10:00 - 24:00. Admission 20/10kn. J Poljana pape Ivana Pavla II. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Jun/Sep
the vital link between the town within the walls and the open 09:00 - 21:00. Jul - Aug open 09:00 - 22:00. Admis‑
sea outside them. City Sentinel (Gradska straža) sion 20kn. J
The Venetians built the Land Gate - then the main en- Designed by a Venetian architect in the late Renaissance
trance into the city - on the little Foša harbour in 1543. It’s style, with a large central clock tower and a surrounding
considered one of the finest monuments of the Venetian stone barrier and railing with holes for cannons (both later
additions). The building once housed the Ethnographic Photo by Tim Ertl, Zadar Tourist Board Archives

30 Zadar In Your Pocket Summer 2017 31
weaponry, items from local necropoli and sculpture, mosi- exhibitions that will change the way you see the world
acs and art created in far-flung parts of the Roman Empire. around you. Come take a tour of a place like no other. You
The collection of 1st-3rd century glassware is wonderful. won’t believe your eyes!QD‑2, Poljana Zemaljskog Od‑
Also well worth seeing is a reconstruction showing the bora 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 68 03, www.zadar.muzejiluzija.
Forum area in Roman times. In a smaller room are exhibits com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. Admission 40 - 150kn.
from the development of Christianity in North Dalmatia
in the late Classical and early Byzantine period, and rare National Museum (Narodni muzej Zadar)
artefacts from the invasion of the Goths. The ground floor The National Museum in Zadar provides a unique cultural
(early Middle Ages, 8th to 11th centuries) contains exhibits insight to visiting tourists, be through Natural History De-
from early Croatian graves near Nin, and stone furniture partment, Ethnological Department, Department of Zadar
from churches which did not survive the ages. City Museum and Gallery of Fine Arts with its impressive
Archeological Museum in Zadar displays ancient Rome collections and exhibitions. The City Lodge, Rector’s pal-
in a new contemporary way by using thematic sections ace and visitor centre Minor Arsenal host a number of
to describe life in ancient Zadar (Lader) and areas of the current exhibitions as well. In addition to all of this, the
southern part of Liburni (Northern Dalmatia). As well, stat- National Museum in Zadar has two dislocated objects: the
ues of Caesar, Augustus, Tiberius and one of Tiberius’s suc- regional Ethnographic collection Veli Iž and the regional
cessors, along with numerous inscriptions, sculptures and Cultural-historical collection Mali Iž. Tickets must be pur-
portraits that are included at this permanent exhibition. chased separately for each aspect of the museum.QC‑2,
QC‑3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 13, www. Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51, Open 09:00 - 21:00. July - August 31 Open Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 20/10kn. J
09:00 - 22:00. Admission 30kn. J
The Museum of Ancient Glass (Muzej
Gallery of Arts (Galerija umjetnina) antičkog stakla)
A permanent exhibition of Croatian art and sculpture from The museum is one of the city’s newest attractions. It’s
the 19th and 20th centuries. Particularly of note are the housed in the 19th century Cosmacendi Palace and has
artworks dating 1945-49, a collection of Baroque sacred art some outstanding views that overlook the Jazine harbour.
and the works of prominent Zadar artist Franjo Salghetti. The museum contains one of the premium collections
QD‑3, Medulićeva 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 11 74, www.nmz. of Roman glassware outside Italy, with a cornucopia of
hr. Open 10:00 - 13:00, Mon, Thu 18:00 - 21:00. Closed goblets, jars and vials retrieved from archaeological sites
Sat, Sun, Open every 1st Saturday in month 09:00 - across Dalmatia. Highlights include the delicate vessels
13:00. Admission 10 - 20kn. used by Roman ladies to store perfumes, skin creams and
essential oils. Also look out for glass cups used to celebrate
Museum of Illusions Mass, and dainty flasks in which holy water was stored.
The Museum of Illusions is an optical tour de force that’s Take the opportunity to see the replica Roman glassware
a thrill for the whole family. Newly opened in the heart on sale as this is one of the classiest souvenir-stops in the
of Zadar’s old town, the museum is unique in this part of city.QD‑2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23)
Europe. Trick your mind and your senses with an array of 36 38 31/(+385-23) 36 38 30, Open
09:00 - 21:00. Admission 30/10kn.
Mali Arsenal
Once a part of the city fortress built in the 15th cen- Churches
tury, Mali Arsenal has recently reopened in its restored Church of Our Lady of Health (Crkva
original form but with a changed interior which is now Gospe od “Kaštela” (Zdravja))
a high-tech Multimedia Centre. Visitors can learn about In the green park by Three Wells Square (see Essential
Zadar’s fortifications through play and exploration Zadar) is the little orange Church of Our Lady of Health,
across four different levels. The first level is all about one of the city’s best-loved churches. It lies in the quiet old
ambiance and 3D visualisation. The second level uses neighbourhood of Kampo Kaštelo. Built in 1703 on the site
games and motion sensors and the third level is educa- of two much older churches, it contains a copy of a famous
tionally based and includes detection and research us- painting “Our Lady of Kaštelo”, the original of which is now
ing interactive modules on the multi-touch screen. The in the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver
fourth level encourages visitors to discover the history and Gold of the City of Zadar ).QA‑3, Braće Bilišić 1.
of 15 places in the old city centre via a mobile applica-
tion - a virtual guide through Zadar fortifications. The Church of St Mary “de Pusterla” Sto-
visitor becomes a researcher and once they complete morica (Crkva sv. Marije “de Pusterla”
all the tasks, they can share their social networking Stomorica)
accomplishments. 3000 years of history taught in the The foundations of this tiny Early Christian church (11th
new age and in new ways! Open 08:30 Century) were found in 1880 near Hotel Zagreb on the
- 12:30, 17:00 - 21:00. northern edge of the peninsula, and uncovered in the ‘60s.
The floor plan of the church is fascinating: the five semicir-
32 Zadar In Your Pocket
cular apses (typical of early Dalmatian church architecture) St Dominic’s Church (Crkva sv. Dominika)
and the semicircular portal surrounding the central space This former church building has had an interesting past.
give it an unusual six-leaved clover shape.QC‑4, Mihovila Consecrated in 1280, it belonged to a Dominican mon-
Pavlinovića 12. astery who founded the first university in Croatia there
(1396). When Napoleon took Zadar in 1805, he abolished
St Andrew’s and St Peter the Elder’s the Dominican order, turned the church into a barracks,
(Crkva sv. Petra Starog i Sv. Andrije) and shut down the university. The church has recently
On the corner of Ulica Dalmatinskog Sabora and Ulica been renovated, and part of the monastery complex is
Hrvoja Vukčića Hrvatinića (near the market), the simple now home to Zadar’s popular and internationally ac-
frontage of St Andrew’s has an unremarkable 17th cen- claimed Puppet Theatre.QD‑3, Špire Brusine 13.
tury facade, but other parts date back to the 5th and 6th
centuries. Through the apse you enter the very unusual St Elias’s Church (Crkva sv. Ilije)
church of St Peter the Elder, also from the early Middle The city’s Orthodox church was originally used by Greek
Ages. Both contain fragments of ancient frescoes, and the merchants and sailors, later serving the city’s Serbian
atmospheric interiors are now used as exhibition spaces. community. It stands just behind the Forum, and since
QC‑2, Hrvoja Vukčića Hrvatinića 10. this area is undergoing extensive renovation, you can’t
access the church at the moment. It was built in the late
St Chrysogonus’ Church (Crkva sv. Baroque style at the end of the 18th century, and contains
Krševana) a wonderful collection of icons spanning the 16th to 18th
A beautifully preserved little Romanesque church, conse- centuries.QB‑3.
crated in 1175, originally belonging to a Benedictine monas-
tery that once stood nearby. The front is quite simple, while St Francis’s Church & Franciscan Mon-
on the sides are delightful barley-sugar twist columns, and astery (Franjevački samostan i Crkva sv.
to the rear three semicircular apses, the central one deco- Franje Asiškog)
rated with a gallery. The interior is also pleasingly simple, Consecrated in 1280, Saint Francis’s is the oldest Gothic
with many remains of frescoes. The high altar was built in church in Dalmatia, also displaying fine Renaissance and
1701 by citizens who were spared from plague. In 1717 white Baroque work, and containing some very important art-
marble statues of Zadar’s four patron saints were erected on works. The church was the venue for the signing of the
the altar.QC‑2, Poljana Pape Aleksandra III 2. Zadar peace treaty of 1358, when the Venetians ended
centuries of attacks on the city and handed it to the
Statue of Spiridon Brusina (Špiro Brusina), Zadar Tourist Board Archives protection of the Croatian-Hungarian King Ludwig I of
Anjou. Particularly worth seeing is the wonderful choir in
a local style known as Floral Gothic. The attached Fran-
ciscan monastery has a beautiful Renaissance cloister. Za-
dar’s young people like to come here for Midnight Mass
at Christmas. In the early part of 2011, during restoration
works, a 400sqm floor space entirely covered in head-
stones from between the 14th and the 19th centuries was
Mass Sunday 08:30, 10:00, 20:00. Mass in foreign languag-
es can be arranged by appointment.QA/B‑3, Trg sv.Frane
1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 68,
Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 20/10kn.

St Michael’s Church (Crkva sv. Mihovila)
On the corner of Ulica Špire Brusine and Ulica Mihe Klaica
is the simple and charming Gothic frontage of St Michael’s,
once part of a Franciscan monastery. A relief on the portal
shows St Michael flanked by St Anastasia and St Chrysogo-
nus. The present church was built in 1389 and added to
in the 19th century. Of interest inside are a 13th century
painted Romanesque crucifix and a statue of Saint Michael
on the high altar.QD‑3, Špire Brusine 4.

St Simeon’s Church (Crkva sv. Šimuna)
East of Narodni trg is the church named after the most
popular patron saint of Zadar. First built in the 5th century,
it has undergone alterations until as recently as 1980, and
some find the terracotta and white exterior disappointing
34 Zadar In Your Pocket
Sightseeing Sightseeing
Statue of Petar Zoranić
On St Chrysogonus’ square is a statue of a man with rather
muscular legs. This is Petar Zoranić, the writer of the first
novel in Croatian. Born in Zadar, he was the son of a family
of nobles from Nin. The beauty of the surrounding moun-
tains and the sea was his inspiration and his theme in Pla-
nine (“Mountains”), written in 1536, a pastoral romance
and a product of the Renaissance in Zadar at that time – a
time when the city was under siege by the Turks, but art
and culture prospered within.
City Forum, St Donatus’ Church, Zadar Tourist Board Archives
Statue of Špiro Brusina
The handsome fellow staring at a shell in front of the Uni-
versity in Zadar is none other than Špiro Brusina. Born in
1845, he was an expert in natural sciences and founder of
ornithology in Croatia. He was also a zoologist, explorer,
and cultural and public official. Another curious fact is that
he was a leading member in the Croatian chapter of the
freemasons. What secrets does that shell contain?QD‑4.

The Captain’s Tower (Kapetanova kula)
A pentagonal tower on the Five Wells Square, built by the
Venetians to strengthen the city against Turkish attacks. It
gets its name from the nearby residence of the Venetian
city captain, and is now used as an exhibition space.QD‑3,
Trg pet bunara.

The Sea Organ, Photo by Tim Ertl, Zadar Tourist Board Archives The City Cemetery, Heritage Monument
(Gradsko groblje)
in comparison with the other churches. But it has a pleas- Cemeteries, most vacationers aren’t exactly thrilled at the
ant Mediterranean aspect, with palms planted outside, thought of them. However it does have to be mentioned Palaces in the 16th century, 19th century and in the 21st century.
and the gilded reliquary of the saint inside is one of Zadar’s some of the highest quality stonework is on display at Nassis and Patrizio Palaces (Palače Nas- The latter was due to its bombing during the Homeland
highlights (see The Silver Casket of St Simeon ).QD‑3, Trg these sites. The city cemetery in Zadar is proof of that, and sis i Petrizio) War where it was hit by eight large calibre missiles, caus-
Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 05. to be honest, when you visit on a sunny day it’s really not Near St Simeon’s Church in Ulica don Ive Prodana are two ing heavy destruction and damaging the statics of the
all that morbid.QR‑3. beautiful examples of Gothic-Renaissance palaces, dem- building. Now and as of recent, the palace has been re-
onstrating how architecture, and in particular the creation constructed thanks to EU funding and is now a modern
Landmarks The Petar Zoranić Square of courtyard gardens, flowered during the 14th and 15th equipped cultural complex. This new tourist attraction
Five Wells Square (Trg 5 bunara) Located between the Five Wells Square, St Simon’s Church centuries behind the city walls, despite incessant bom- unites the museum space, its temporary exhibition halls,
During the 16th century, the Venetians helped the city and the Queen Jelena Park, this square is unique as you bardment by enemies.QD/C ‑3. and representative halls decorated and conserved in dif-
withstand Turkish sieges by building a large drinking can view archaeological sites under glass. Amongst them ferent historical styles. It also has a video gallery, concert
water cistern with five ornamental wellheads. When the is a stone sarcophagus containing four skeletons but with Palace Grisogono - Vovo (Palača and multimedia halls. In keeping to its natural and original
Turkish threat ended, a park was built on top of the nearby only one inscription, that of a local monk named Juraj and Grisogono - Vovo) beauty, the Rector’s Palace is now a treasure of the city
bastion, and nowadays the attractive stone-flagged park dates between 750 and 850 AD, a rare archaeological treat. Another palace near St Simeon’s, on the corner of Ulica well worth visiting.QD‑3, Poljana Šime Budinića. Open
serves as the perfect gathering point for skateboarders. QD‑3. don Ive Prodana and Ulica Ilije Smiljanića. The first floor 10:00 - 22:00.
QD‑3, Trg 5 bunara. originally consisted of two connected Romanesque build-
The Sea Organ (Morske orgulje) ings. In the 16th Century the first floor was adapted in a
Greeting to the Sun Spring 2005 saw Zadar gain something absolutely unique: combination of Renaissance and Gothic styles. Again, the Parks
Witness this unique chance to see the latest project in the world’s first pipe organ that’s played by the sea. Sim- courtyard is well worth a look.QD‑3. Queen Jelena Madijevka Park (Perivoj
Zadar called ‘A salute to the sun’ by the architect Nikola ple, elegant stone steps have been built on the quayside, kraljice Jelene-Madijevka)
Bašić, who represented Croatia at the 11th Venice Bien- perfect for sitting on. Underneath, 35 pipes end in whistles Rector’s Palace (Kneževa palača) Vladimir Nazor Park is not the city’s oldest – that distinc-
nial 2008. This project is in alliance with the Sea Organ with openings on the quayside above. The movement of One of the city’s prized buildings, the 13th-century Rec- tion goes the park named after Queen Jelena Madijevka
project. In making these two projects possible, musician the sea pushes air through, and – depending on the size tor’s Palace is located in the eastern part of the Zadar (Medici), built on top of the Grimaldi bastion by Five Wells
Ivan Stamać and as well as engineer and expert on water and velocity of the wave – chords are played. As you sit peninsula. Over the centuries the palace has experienced Square. Founded by Austrian commander Baron Franz
hydraulics Vladimir Andročec have both made significant and listen to the ever-changing sounds created by the many changes, both scarce and stylistic. Archaeologi- Ludwig von Welden in 1829, a passionate botanist and
contributions.QA‑3. sea’s energy, you can bask in the sun, watch one of Zadar’s cal research of its foundations had revealed parts of the admirer of Dalmatian flora, it was the first public park in
famous sunsets or enjoy the balmy night air. QA‑4, Obala building from the Roman and Late Antiquity period to Dalmatia. To create a garden on top of a military object kralja Petra Krešimira IV. wall structures showing Romanesque and Gothic layers. was an unusual move, but one Zadar is eternally grateful
Historically, three restructured projects have taken place; for.QD/E‑3.
36 Zadar In Your Pocket Summer 2017 37
atmospheric surroundings, and is guaranteed to leave the
most resolute non-believer awestruck. On the ground
floor there is also a reconstruction of the former chapel of
St Nediljica and examples of Romanesque masonry.QB‑3,
Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 96/(+385-23) 25
48 20. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Sun 10:00 -
13:00. Admission 25/10 kn.

Silver Casket of St Simeon (Srebrna raka
sv. Šime)
In the church of the same name, a gilded silver casket on
the altar is raised on the outstretched arms of four bronze
Zadar Tourist Board Archives angels. It contains the remains of the popular saint-pro-
tector of the city. Commissioned in 1381 by Elizabeth, wife
of Croat-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou, it’s one of the
Vladimir Nazor Park (Perivoj Vladimira finest examples of the work of Zadar’s silversmiths, and
Nazora) inside and out shows in intricate detail scenes from the
Named since WWII after one of the most famous Croatian saint’s life and the city’s history.
writers, Zadar’s biggest park lies on top of the city’s big- Locals say that a merchant who was shipping the body of
gest fort, just east of the peninsula and the Land Gate. It St Simeon from the Holy Land to Venice was caught in a
was created in 1888-90 by an Austrian deputy, Dragutin storm, and sought shelter here. He fell ill, and before he
Blažekovic, born to a noble family in Osijek (east Croatia). died had the body buried, but told the nurses taking care
Despite working for the Austrians, he was a supporter of of him that they would find something interesting in his
Croatian rights, and resigned when the Austrians refused documents. They found an inscription of the powers of
to concede them. He left something beautiful to the city - the saint around his neck, and asked three local priests
a richly planted park with winding pathways, a pond, and to dig up the grave that night. Not yet knowing the true
an elevation giving great views of the sea. He died three nature of the occupant of the grave, visions appeared to
years after it was completed, and the park was named af- them, and St Simeon has been revered in Zadar ever since.
ter him – against his wishes.QE‑3. The silver casket of St. Simeon can be viewed daily and
his remains will be shown to the public on his patron day,
October the 8th. Mass: 08:30, Sun 08:30 and 10:00.QD‑3,
Religious collection Trg Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 05. Open 08:30
Church Collections from the Church of - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat.
St Elijah the Prophet
A collection of church art treasure dating between the The Monastery Museum of St. Mihovil’s,
15h and 19th century containing 30 icons, liturgical items, Franciscans of the Third order (Muzej
crucifixes, holy books, manuscripts, church clothing and samostana sv. Mihovila, franjevaca
an interesting collection of antimins printed on a canvas trećoredaca)
with an etching technique.QB‑3, Trg S. Jankovića 3, tel. There is a museum at the monastery of St. Mihovil, Fran-
Tovareća, Sali Tourist Board Archives
(+385-23) 25 10 14. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 20:00. ciscans of the Third order (Muzej samostana sv. Mihovila,
Admission 10kn. franjevaca trećoredaca). The name itself is a mouthful, but
it’s another location which hoards and cares for a spec-
Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar tacular religious collection. Among some of its most note-
(Zlato i srebro Zadra) worthy pieces is a 16th century depiction of the Last Sup-
If you come to Zadar you must see the Forum and St Do- per as well as several ornate statues.QD‑3, Mihe Klaića

Croatian Critters
natus. If you only see one other thing, make it the Silver 11, tel. (+385-23) 35 00 20/(+385-23) 35 00 21. Open
and Gold of Zadar. It’s housed in the Benedictine convent 06:30 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00 and by prior arrangement.
of St Mary’s, where it has been guarded by nuns since the
end of the Second World War. It forms the Permanent Ex- The Sacred Art Collection of St Fran-
hibition of Religious Art, one of the most important cul- cis’ Monastery (Riznica samostana sv.
tural repositories in Croatia. The city has enjoyed various Frane)
periods of flowering of arts and culture, and the work of The monastery has a rich collection of religious art, high- Beasties of the coast & hinterland
local gold and silversmiths (including Italians and Vene- lights of which include a 12th century painted Roman-
tians resident in the city) is absolutely stunning, spanning esque crucifix and a 15th century polyptych from the
the millennium between the 8th and 18th Centuries. island of Ugljan which is a fine example of Gothic painting
The collection includes reliquaries for either entire saints in Croatia. There are also ancient incunabula, documents,
or parts of them (e.g. hands, arms and heads), crucifixes, liturgical vessels and more.QA/B‑3, Trg sv. Frane 1, tel.
paintings, and vestements interwoven with gold and (+385-23) 25 04 68, Open 09:00 -
silver thread. The collection is presented in intimate and 18:00. Admission 15/5kn.
38 Zadar In Your Pocket
Croatian Critters Croatian Critters
The Benkovac Fair mestic animals, agricultural tools and household wares, as due to the ever-increasing pace of life. Many people take
Not so long ago, just thirty years or so, fairs were an every- well as owners of local restaurants in improvised tents and part in these games in order to test their strength and their
day occurrence in every small, mid-sized or larger village or a river of visitors and idlers from all corners of Croatia flow skills in various disciplines such as stone-throwing, arm
town in Dalmatia. Although that tradition has largely been through the fair. wrestling (for women and men), fighting on a shaft, pulling
lost today, there are still a few fairs left in Croatia, one of What can you find at the Benkovac Fair? The fair's most pop- pistons, donkey racing, throwing a boule into a drum from
which deserves a special mention due to the variety of its ular products each month depend on the season. People horseback, standing long jump and tug-o-war (for women
offering and the colourful people who visit – the Benkovac from the fertile central Croatian regions of Prigorje, Podravi- and men).
fair. na and Međimurje bring flour from their mills; those from The bullfights are held in a large fenced arena on the last
The story of this peculiar fair starts one hundred years ago the market towns of Varaždin and Bjelovar bring calves, and Sunday in the month of May. The first bullfight was organ-
when the town centre of Benkovac, on the 10th day of eve- from the plains of Slavonia mainly pigs and piglets… The ized in 1993 and a year later it was officially regulated to
ry month (during the summer), would become the venue hospitable locals take care of the rich gastronomic offering: protect these noble animals whose nature is to fight and
of a large livestock fair. It was a place filled with song, laugh- lamb roast on a spit, suckling pig, food roasted under the prove their strength.
ter and cheer, where guys and girls would dance traditional lid, and a variety of wines from the local vineyards. Those few locals twenty years ago probably couldn’t have
dances and flirt with one another, and where thus many a The wonderful thing about the Benkovac Fair is not just its imagined that their radical idea would one day attract 10-
love affair was born. century-old tradition but the fact that this fair is a part of 15 thousand visitors into their small village every year!
Soon, Benkovac became the centre of Dalmatia for that one an almost lost way of life in agricultural regions and is an
day of the month when tens of thousands of farmers, trad- authentic manifestation of commercial, cultural and ethno- Donkey races
ers and craftspeople would come here to try to sell every- logical heritage. Donkeys are common domestic animals the world over. In
thing “from a needle to an anchor”. popular culture, donkeys have gained the reputation for
Nowadays, the fair is held outside the centre on six hec- The Village Olympics and the Bullfight stubbornness and not being exactly the brightest sparks, so
tares of land including rocky fields and pine forests in a vil- About twenty years ago in a small, tumbledown village in many languages including Croatian, the word for donkey
lage named Benkovačko selo, an area where people have with few prospects, a number of locals decided to take a (magarac) took on a pejorative meaning. However, because
always made a living from agriculture, livestock and tradi- radical step and turn their secluded village into an attrac- donkeys are long-lived (they can reach over 40 years old),
tional crafts. Instead of going to soulless shopping centres, tive tourist destination that would be renowned far and are sure-footed on rocky terrain such as that found in Dal-
people come from all over to buy and sell in a rather more wide. They wanted to preserve the memory of their pre- matia and don't need shoeing, for centuries they have been
traditional way. Hundreds of traders in livestock and do- decessors by maintaining their peaceful and quiet lives, as used in this region to help with the heavy work. At one
well as their iconic village festivals! time, there would have been more than 40,000 donkeys in
The eco-ethno village Škopljanci in the Kaštela hinterland Dalmatia whereas now there are just over 1000 of them.
Bikijada Radosic, Photo by Radin Goran, Tovareća, Sali Tourist Board Archives
is a family-owned property with about twenty old stone Although they are not as fast as horses, donkeys can, if they
houses forming its centre. Twelve of the houses have been must, run as fast as 50 km/h. The revival of donkey racing
completely renovated down to the finest detail in order is just one of the ways of reintroducing donkeys to the Dal- Just across the Tribunj waterfront lies the islet of Logorun with
to preserve their original shape, respecting the traditions matian landscape. the first donkey reserve in the world. It is possible to visit the
and the architecture of the region. The village today is a island, where you will find that the island’s only inhabitants are
registered monument of cultural heritage of the Republic Tribunj quite tame and friendly.
of Croatia and is monitored closely by the conservation During summer, a number of donkey races take place along the
department in Trogir. The village’s rich ethnographic col- coast, but special mention has to go to the oldest racing event Tisno
lection is exhibited in the Ethnographic museum which in the town of Tribunj. The donkey race in Tribunj has been held As opposed to the Tribunj race which is reserved only for local
includes more than 800 historical objects of various pur- for 50 years now, every 1 August to honour this hard-working competitors, the donkey race in a nearby Tisno is an interna-
poses, traditional folk costumes and other preserved items, animal which has helped local people throughout the town's tional event open to representatives from different countries.
managed by the “Fireplace” folklore association and the history. Exactly for this reason, the race at Tisno has become a tourist
Škopljanac family. It all started when local students came up with the idea in 1952, phenomenon, especially since the organisers, the “Tišnjanski
The village has another, a more unique museum dedicated organising a donkey race during their summer break. Since Tovar” society, decided to include tourists and emigrants from
to one important member of their community – the Mu- 1957, the race has been held every year with only a few excep- Tisno into the race in order to popularise the event around the
seum of Bulls. Bulls are a part of the tradition of Dalmatian tions. world.
uplands, of the village of Radošić and of the Škopljanac Only born-and-bred Tribunj locals may take part, usually 12
family. In times past, bulls were used to plough the fields of themper race. The donkey riders wear Tribunj folk dress as Sali
The Benkovac fair, Photo by Sandra Babac and people's livelihoods depended on them. A household people used to wear every day for working in the field. The race Another popular donkey race takes place on the island of Dugi
with a bull was considered a wealthy one. As their number course goes through the town centre which lies on a little islet. otok, located west of Zadar. The “Saljske užance” festival has
decreased over years, the Škopljanac family has helped re- Just like in the famous Croatian knights’ tournament the Alka in been held for over 50 years on the weekend before the Feast
introduce them to the countryside by organizing their now Sinj where the leader is called the “alaj-čauš”, the donkey race of the Assumption in August. This three day event culminates
famous bullfights. The museum features more than 100 has an “alaj-ćuša” who makes sure that everything takes place in with a traditional donkey race on the Riva, the town's water-
specimens, bearing witness to 20 years of bullfighting in accordance with the donkey race's statute and who starts the front. Once the race is over, prizes (e.g. pršut) are awarded for
Radošić. race with a shot from his pistol. the fastest donkey and the laziest donkey, i.e. the last one to
In the shade of a hundred-year-old oak forest, a protected The winner is the first one to cross the finishing line, which, cross the finish line. The laziest donkey and its owner receive a
monument of nature in the Republic of Croatia, there is a bearing in mind the well-known stubbornness of the donkey, diploma for their efforts.
fenced arena in which the Village Olympics and the bull- is not the easiest thing in the world! Apart from a cash prize, the Apart from the donkey race, tourists may take part in the prepa-
fights are held. The Village Olympics is a special experience winner takes home a statue of a donkey which is passed on to ration of local specialities, listen to the so-called “donkey music”,
which encompasses a host of sporting competitions and the new winner each year. After the end of the donkey race, the compete in a variety of traditional sports and competitions and
numerous old village games which have been forgotten whole town parties until dawn. enjoy the programme of entertainment on Riva.
40 Zadar In Your Pocket Summer 2017 41
Zadar Surroundings Zadar Surroundings
the end of the 17th century after the Turks had withdrawn
The Nin Salt Works Museum and Shop from the area. One of Zaton’s landmark symbols and a fre-
Dating back from the Roman times, this lagoon is filled with quent postcard motif is the Saint Nicholas Church, which
the essential elements that have seen the production of salt is situated on a small little hill in the middle of a field. It has
continue according to traditional methods unto this day. three circular bases and one rectangular niche as well as the
The museum offers displays, exhibits and multimedia and dome above its center. The church was built with traces of the
visitors can walk through the salt fields which are packed Romanic style from the end of the 11th and the beginning
with diverse flora and fauna (280 bird species).QIlirska cesta of the 12th century. A watchtower was built on the dome
7, tel. (+385-23) 26 47 64/(+385-23) 26 40 21, www.solananin. during the Turkish wars. The 16th century Kaštelin Tower
hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Admission 35 - 65kn. A was built as a defense structure against potential invaders.
The engraved Latin inscription and coat of arms above the
tower indicate that it was built by Hannibal Cirysagus, in
Novigrad 1593. This is one of three towers raised by the Venetians to
Novigrad (literally “New Town”, somewhat of a misnomer), defend Nin from Turkish raids. The parish church in Zaton
a castle ruin perched on a hill above the town of the same is sanctified to the Birth of the Virgin Mary and was built in
name, also has had a turbulent history. The Romans, and 1670, elongated in 1870, and extended in the shape of the
before them, the Liburnians, built forts on the same spot. cross in 1969. The remains of the Church of Saint Andrew
Some of the walls date from Roman times, but Novigrad is an extremely valuable object from early Christian times
has been modernized. It has several restaurants and ca- (built in the 6th century) which was, with various changes,
fes right on the water, offering nice views of the harbor. used for cult purposes until the 16th century. In addition
St. Nicholas Church, Photo by Mladen Radolović, Nin Tourist Board Archives Located 31 km east of Zadar via route 502, Novigrad has to the historical buildings and artifacts that encompass the
been the front line in several conflicts. During dynasty wars area, visitors who are looking for somewhere to stay can find
on a small island that has a 500 metre radius. Visitors can (1385-1387) in what is now Croatia, two woman of royalty, something to suit everyone’s taste and budget. Zaton is filled
North of Zadar enter the old town via one of two bridges which lead to the Mary, the wife of Croatian-Hungarian King Sigismund Lux- with private accommodation spots, well equipped camps
Embark on a journey where the two small tourist places of blissfully preserved historical city gates. The arched gates emberg, and her mother, Elizabeth, were murdered there. and apartment hotels. The Zaton Holiday Resort is a famous
Nin and Zaton will surely amaze you with their anecdotes are the steppingstone to a sightseeing tour of the city walls During the Kandian Wars (1645-1669) it was an important tourist village which is located in the bay; it is secluded from
of history, buildings, artefacts and natural surroundings. and the many valuable and historical monuments. point of Venice’s defense against the Turks, who occupied the wind and surrounded by beautiful pine forest. This truly
Located a mere14 kilometres north of Zadar, these Adriatic Some of the archeological highlights include two original the town during 1646-47. When the Venetians retook the is an ideal place for an unforgettable and peaceful family
gems have their very own story to tell. and reconstructed old Croatian ships ‘Condura Croatica’, town the castle was substantially destroyed. During the vacation whilst also making most of the numerous sporting
(11th Century) that were found at the entrance to the har- more recent war of 1991-1995 after the break up of Yugo- activities available including tennis, horse riding, cycling and
bour, the ruins to the biggest Roman Temple (from the 1st slavia, the Serbs also held the town for two years. There is adventurous water activities. Beach facilities for the disabled
Nin century) on this side of the Adriatic, the gothic chapel of another spectacular view of the modern day town and the are also in place. The 1.5 km stretch of sandy and pebbled
The region of Nin has been inhabited for over a staggering Saint Marcela and the pre-Romanic Church of the Holy sea from the ruins, which are accessible from several trails. shoreline is perfect for families with children. If you are crav-
three thousand years. It was initially founded by the Illyrians Cross (9th century) which is also known to be the smallest The easiest to find (again, no signs!) starts from the top of ing peace, an idyllic sunset, crystal clear waters with a lush
who named the area Aenona. When the Romans gained cathedral in the world. The gold and silver of the town as some wide stairs that ascend from the east side of town. green backdrop, then Zaton is your answer to that unforget-
control, the town had flourished as it was an important har- well as the historical treasures provide for a feast of culture. Go right at the top of the stairs and then left after about 10 table dream getaway.
bour in the Eastern Adriatic Sea - the growth and develop- The other attractions that Nin and Zaton boast are their meters. It takes around 10 - 15 minutes to reach the castle.
ment of import, export and migration attracted merchants long sandy beaches which are perfect for that summer hol- Zaton Tourist Board
and other settlers to the area. iday. The blue sky waters are striking and the accommoda- Tourist Office of the Municipality of QZadarska cesta 39a, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 54
The beauty of Nin and neighbouring Zaton is twofold. Visi- tion on offer includes hotels, nicely decorated apartments, Novigrad 61, Open 07:00 - 21:00.
tors are immersed in the historical treasures of the tourist holiday villas and small idyllic camps. QTrg kralja Tomislava 1, Novigrad, tel. (+385-23) 37 50
places whilst also fulfilling the true holiday experience of A hidden advantage that entices many to this region is the 51, Open 08:00 - 15:00, Zaton Holiday Resort
picturesque beaches and breathtaking surroundings. ‘Nin Curing Mud Peloid’ which has been used for medical Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 - QDražnikova 76t, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 80,
The historical town of Nin is situated in the middle of a shal- purposes since the Roman times. Supervised medical per- 15:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
low lagoon, whilst the historical part of the town is located sonnel assist visitors and patients with therapy. The curing
mud effect can be seen through its medical, mechanical
Agritourism and chemical effect. The therapy is performed in a cosy Zaton
natural environment and it includes bathing and swim- This small tourist town is a popular holiday destination for
Gospodarstvo Roca ming in warm sea water. many visitors and is located between the two historic cities
Tourism with a very natural touch! Welcome to this As you wander through Nin or Zaton, you’ll find that noth- of Nin (2 km) and Zadar (13 km). It is the perfect escape for
farm which is family run and has a primary focus on ing much has changed over the years; ancient buildings a family holiday and action packed vacation because of its
breeding pork meat (Yorkshire, Landrasse…) The en- built from Dalmatian Stone still stand in their purest form. great climate, preserved nature, the abundant sports activi-
tire set-up maintains the true spirit of an old stone What visitors cherish the most are these magnificent his- ties available (horse riding, water sports etc.) and for its rich
village in the Dalmatian hinterland where guests can torical structures entwined with the natural ambience of cultural and historical heritage. As summer nears, Zaton
enjoy local products and authentic dishes in their tav- mother-nature that provides the perfect getaway. springs to life and as history books would have it, remnants
ern. Best to book but casual passers-by will always be Nin Tourist Board of life and culture also existed in the area as far back as the
welcomed.QStankovci, tel. (+385) 091 583 40 43. QTrg braće Radića 3, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 52 47/(+385- Bronze Age, over 4000 years ago. Throughout the Roman pe-
Open 13:00 - 23:30. (70 - 400kn). 6­N 23) 26 42 80, Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, Au‑ riod, Zaton was a port that was owned by Aenona (present
gust Open 08:00 - 21:00. day Nin) and the town started to gradually develop towards
42 Zadar In Your Pocket Summer 2017 43
Zadar Surroundings
the end of the 14th century on a cliff above the Kličevica
asseria River. An extension was constructed in the 15th century.
At Asseria, near Podgrađe, 6km east of Benkovac are Kličevac’s inaccessibility did not prevent the Turks from
the remains of an urban settlement almost a kilome- capturing it in the early 16th century. Several senior Turk-
tre long. Asseria was founded long before the Romans ish government officials occupied the castle over the next
set foot on these lands. It was a powerful centre of the 150 years. Cont inuing on our counterclockwise circuit of
Liburnian tribe, whose territories stretched for miles castles in Zadar County, Starigrad (“Old Town”) Vrana lies
along the eastern Adriatic coast. When the Romans 11 kilometers south o f Benkovac via a secondary, but paved
later occupied these lands, Asseria grew to become a road. The modern day village of the same name surrounds
municipality with a governing council. The town was the ancient, ruined, walled town. Much of the town walls
inhabited from the Bronze Age right up until the late remain, and the remains of a church are clearly discernable.
Roman period - a time span of at least a millennium. Vrana also has had a turbulent history. Originally it was a Ro-
Asseria’s blossoming as a town took place during the man settlement called Blandona. In the Middle Ages it was
1st and 2nd centuries AD, when it was one of the main a Benedictine monastery, but the Holy See gave the town to
settlements of the Liburnians. The oldest remains in the Templar knights in the 12th century. In 1312 Vrana came
Asseria which have been found to date are from the into the possession of the Templars’ rivals, the Knights Hospi-
5th century BC, and show us a town with walls 7m taller, who served not only as combatants but also as medics
high and 3.2m thick, built as part of the military belt in the Crusades. For two centuries Vrana’s prior was wealthy
protecting the rich cultural life on the coast from bar- and influential, owning 40 other monasteries in the region.
barian invasion from inland. Built on the proscribed As with nearby towns, the Turks overran Vrana in the early
lines of a Roman city, Asseria had a town square, a 16th century. A Turkish military commander, one Alibeg
water system, public baths and a necropolis where Atlagić, re-fortified the town. When the Venetians captured
cylindrical gravestones known as “cipus” have been Vrana and evicted the Turks in 1647, they destroyed much
discovered. The most important Roman monument is of the town’s fortifications. If you are feeling adventurous,
a triumphal arch, one of seven entrances into the city, take a ferry from Zadar to Preko on the island of Ugljan, a
built in 113 AD in honour of Roman Emperor Trajan. journey of 20 minutes. About three kilometers from the ferry
Annual archaeological digs at Asseria are revealing pier is the castle fortress of Saint Michael (“Sveti Mihovil”).
more and more fascinating layers of history beneath. It is perched on the highest point of the island (265 meters)
Ceramics from the Greek period that predated the Ro- and there are spectacular views in every direction, particu-
man settlement here have been unearthed, and also larly of Iž Island and Dugi Otok (“Long Island”) to the west,
from the age of the Liburnians before them. As you’ll but also Zadar to the east and countless Adriatic islands to
know if you’ve visited the Archaeological Museum in the south. When you drive up from the ferry pier, turn right
Zadar or Nin, such relics of one of the oldest European on the main road. After a kilometer or so take the narrow
civilisations are not only awe-inspiring due to their but well paved road that leads up to the west (left). There
age, but also because of their simple beauty. Visiting is a sign pointing the way to the castle (will wonders never
Asseria is a chance not only to see more of these, but cease!?). You can drive all the way, but there are several
also to experience the scale of such an old settlement walking trails that ascend to the summit, too. Various mon-
in its entirety. asteries were located at Sv. Mihovil beginning in the 10th
The Church of St Martin near Benkovac yielded a few century. The Venetians fortified Mihovil in the 13th century
surprises some years ago, when an old storeroom was as an observation post. Because the site is so advantageous
opened up and found to contain more than 2000 for this purpose, the Serbs shelled Sv. Mihovil in 1991. This is
silver pieces from the treasury of King Koloman (or one place that the Turks did not succeed in capturing. Un-
Kalman) of Hungary, part of the riches he used to fi- fortunately, now a communications tower inside the walls
nance his quest for the Croatian crown. (His quest was of the castle mars the atmosphere somewhat. Nevertheless,
successful - as part of a treaty, he was crowned King of this ruin is worth visiting because of the great views. As you
Croatia in 1102 in Biograd, the first time in history that travel around the county you may observe other hilltop
the Kingdoms of Croatia and Hungary were joined). ruins. There are many more, but those described above are
The golden era of Asseria came to an end when Avar the largest and most spectacular. The fact that they were
(and sometimes Slav) tribes swept across the plains built for military reasons and changed hands so many times
of Europe, and the Roman Empire crumbled. The last reflects the strategic importance of the Zadar area through
mention of the settlement is from the 11th century. the millennia.

At a dip in the track take the right fork. Follow this track (ig- South of Zadar
nore others) and after about 100 meters you will head down South of Zadar and following the coastal road you will find
and see the castle through the trees. Perched on the edge yourself in Biograd and municipalities like Pakoštane, where
of a stony ravine, it is an impressive sight! Be sure to take a extends several kilometres of coastline under the Vrana lake
peek through the tower door to get a glimpse of the intact in its present lively and romantic Riviera.
roof. Feudal lords of the Kurjaković family built Kličevac at
44 Zadar In Your Pocket
Zadar Surroundings Zadar Surroundings
dar since Roman times, and is a pristine Nature Park, with a
rich stock of birds and aquatic life. As such, it’s a mecca for Islands
fishing and birdwatching. The land there is very flat, so it’s Don’t make the mistake of missing some of these great
perfect terrain for biking - it’s encircled by a 30km bike trail, places in Zadar’s surrounding areas. Many of them are
which gets more hilly and interesting to the north of the lake. somewhat neglected by guide books, and therefore all the
There’s a peaceful campsite which has a great fish restaurant. more delightful to discover.
It’s a nice break from the hubbub of the coast.

Other trips you can take are a boat to the islet of Saint Kath- Dugi otok
erine, just a hop away from Biograd’s shores. There’s an old Although it’s easily accessible from Zadar by boat, Croatia’s
lighthouse there and it’s great for bathing. Ask your host if “Long Island” is rather far out to sea, and so remains one of
they can arrange for a day trip for you. And a highlight of the those few places where you can enjoy tranquillity even in
entire Zadar region must surely be the Kornati archipelago high season. Its capital, Sali, is a simple, historic and attrac-
lying scattered beyond the island of Pašman. Kornati is one tive fishing town with a summer cultural festival running from
of the most spectacular sights in Croatia, and dare we say, mid-July to mid-August. The climax of this is a festival called
Europe. Saljski užanci - three days of music, fireworks, fresh grilled
fish, drinking, dancing, donkey racing and parades in tradi-
Biograd n/m Tourist Board tional local costume in a friendly atmosphere. The festivites
Information on activities, trips and maps of the area.QTrg sometimes get rather wild and climax in revellers leaping into
hrvatskih velikana 2, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 23/(+385-23) the sea in full national costume! Another unique element is
38 53 82, Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sun the strange and haunting folk music of the island, played on
08:00 - 12:00. old irons filled with stones, and on enormous horns poached
from some poor beast.
Vransko Lake Nature Park If that all sounds too hectic, head for the smaller village of
Sakarun, Dugi otok, Photo by Boris Kačan, TZ Zadar Photonet Archives QKralja Petra Svačića 2, Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 81, Božava. The exceptionally clean sea makes it a haven for divers. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Nearby is a white sand beach called Saharun. There are other
Sun. The scheduled working hours refer to Park Manage‑ sandy beaches in this area on the north tip of the island. Treat
Biograd n/m 08:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00, 19:00 - 22:00. ment only; entry to the Park leading to Lake Vransko and yourself and hire a boat and explore to your heart’s content
The small but lively town of Biograd was once an important Closed Sun. Admission 20/10kn. its surroundings is open to visitors 08:00 - 21:00 which - it’s the best way to explore any island. Beaches away from
political centre of the Croatian state and the seat of kings. Biograd is, however, far more than a destination for history includes weekends. Entrance 20/10 kn. settlements and people are, of course, clothing-optional zones.
Croatia’s crowned heads of the Middle Ages were peripatetic nuts. The old centre is picturesquely laid out on a peninsula
– travelling throughout their territories between their power with a view over Pašman Island, which you can reach by
bases – often smaller towns, since larger cities such as Zadar the ferry which leaves from the town quay. Pleasant seaside
functioned almost as individual states. Biograd was one of promenades are lined with cafes and palms, and are attrac-
these royal towns, as was Nin. One of the most important tively planted with lawns and flowerbeds. To the east of the
moments in Biograd’s history was the coronation of Kolo- centre is a large pine forest, within which you can find the
man as Croat-Hungarian king in 1102 – the first time that tennis centre. The pebbly Blue Flag Dražica beach is just a
the states of Croatia and Hungary were joined under a single ten minute walk from the old town. Voted one of Croatia’s
crowned head – this time, by treaty. best beaches, it’s isolated from traffic but has a car park. You
can take part in watersports, and there’s an aquagun and a
You can still see evidence of this proud yesteryear in Biograd’s host of other amenities.
pleasant old centre: an obelisk bearing the date 925, the The pinewoods extend further, providing a healthy and
date of the coronation of Tomislav, the first true Croatian king scented environment with a number of campsites, hotels
and a figure with almost mythical status. It was he who unit- and apartment complexes. A coast path through them leads
ed Pannonia and Dalmatia into a single Croatian state and you past more beaches. Some, such as Soline, are shallow
built the country into a military power rivalling Venice. The and partly sandy, so particularly suitable for children. Be
11th century Basilica of St John was one of the few build- aware that some of the more secluded beaches along the
ings which escaped after the Venetians attacked Biograd in coastline here are “clothing optional”, while at Crvena Luka
1125. There is an early Romanesque Church of St Anthony you’ll find a proper FKK naturist beach. Crvena Luka is a deep
(13th century), the Church of St Rocco (16th century), and bay with a holiday village behind.
the imposing Church of St Anastasia (Sveta Stošija) built in
1761, with a fine clock tower, a decorative well in front and Apart from the aforementioned tennis centre, Biograd is well
baroque altars inside. equipped with diving centres, and is a gentle place to learn
to windsurf. You’ll also find many opportunities to try your
Fans of history should visit the Homeland Museum, which hand at waterskiing. Another activity we can recommend is
has archaeological, ethnographic and art collections, and a bike route which takes you from Kumenat (a neighbour-
presents a fascinating picture of the town’s colourful and tur- hood just east of the centre) through Crvena Luka, Pakoštane
bulent past. It’s at Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV 20, tel. (a nearby resort) and to Lake Vrana (Vransko jezero). This
(+385-23) 38 37 21, Open lake, just south of Biograd, provided the water supply for Za-
46 Zadar In Your Pocket Summer 2017 47
Zadar Surroundings Zadar Surroundings
A trip to the Telaščica Nature Park is an unmissable part are only a handful of restaurants and shops on the island.
of a visit to Dugi Otok - it’s within biking distance from Sali. Molat is covered by low-lying shrubs feeding a few goats
Telašćica Bay is a 10km deep inlet dotted with bays, islets and sheep. It’s great to spend the day exploring the pretty
and cliffs. A spectacular saltwater lake lies next to the bay coastline by boat. Some of the best beaches are around Br-
- the water is warm and said to be curative, and you can gulje, where the ferry docks.
swim there. Legends abound about hidden treasure and
ancient inhabitants with five horns on their heads. More Neighbouring Ist is tiny, measuring under 10km2. It has
visible treasure is the wildlife that abounds there, from pine sandy beaches, vineyards and olive groves, and is good
to fig to olive to moufflon (a kind of wild sheep). Although for sailing, fishing and total relaxation, absolutely uncom-
the park is not commercialised, there are facilities for tour- mercialised.
ists providing fresh fish and local wine. Paradise indeed.

Dugi otok Tourist Board Pag
QObala Petra Lorinija bb, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 94, Pag is one of the most unusual Adriatic islands. Parts of it are Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - extremely rocky and devoid of vegetation, and look like the
12:00, 17:00 - 21:00. moon. Other parts are reminiscent of Spaghetti Westerns,
Veli rat, Dugi otok, Photo by Ivana Stanešić with desert-like scenery and the odd spiky cactus. It’s not
Nature Park “Telašćica” what you’d normally expect from the Mediterranean. But
QSali X 1, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 96, www.pp-telascica. that’s not necessarily a bad thing.
hr. Information office in Sali open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. Park entry tickets and permits are also issued There are many other weird and wonderful things about
by Park Rangers who are available and on duty 00:00 Pag. It’s oddly squid-like in shape, with the “tentacles” form-
-24:00 inside park premises. Entrance ticket cost 200 ing lagoons. The sea is very calm here and the water has an
- 5000kn depending on the size of the boat. Entrance exceptionally high salt content. There have been saltpans
ticket from the mainland costs 20 - 40kn. here for centuries: you can still buy Pag salt normally in any
supermarket. It’s completely natural and has a high mineral
content. The salty winds mean that on many parts of the is-
Iž land, rather little vegetation survives except scrub and herbs,
This is one for those of you with jangled nerves - a green, so sheep farming is the main agricultural activity. These salty
low-lying island with only two picturesque villages: Veli herbs lend a special flavour to the animals’ meat and milk,
and Mali Iž. Veli Iž’s Hotel Korinjak serves only vegetarian which makes great cheese. Pag cheese is highly valued - it’s
food, and offers personal development programs includ- one of Croatia’s most famous export products. A good Pag
Photo by Ivana Stanešić ing yoga and massage. In the town, you can visit a shop cheese is mature, strong tasting and hard, a little like Parme-
and gallery displaying terracotta pots that have been made san. The real Pag cheese is expensive, so don’t be surprised if
here in the same way since Neolithic times. Islanders used cheaper offerings disappoint. We recommend being adven-
Biking to take it to Zadar market every day, and it was traded along turous and trying to get hold of some home made stuff on
the whole Dalmatian coastline. the island itself. Ask your hosts to recommend someone, or
Zadar’s surroundings are ideal for a spot of hiking and look out for signs saying “Paški sir”. Pag island lamb is also re-
biking even in high summer. The Ravni Kotari plains in The streets are too narrow for cars, but luckily the locals are garded as a delicacy - do try it if you have the chance.
the hinterland offer gentle terrain for a spot of touring. renowned for being a jolly and friendly lot, and will come
One of the oldest cycling route is between Zadar and to your aid with trolleys for your luggage. The town’s festival The island’s other renowned cottage industry is lace mak-
Benkovac, where you can experience local hospitality takes place over 3 days in August, and showcases a local ing. Since, once upon a time, there was nothing better for
in the surrounding villages and visit the ancient ruins oddity, water basketball. Mali Iž has lovely beaches. The the women of Pag to do than keep an eye on a few sheep,
of Asseria. The Nature Park and lake Vransko Jezero of- islanders live from fishing, olives, making great wine and watch salt dry and wait for hubby to come home with the
fer gentle terrain, though some routes pass canyons a special rakija made with Japanese herbs that they say is day’s catch, they kept idle thumbs at bay by lace-making.
and higher spots where you can enjoy great views. The good for the heart. If you’re really nice to them, they might Over the centuries they evolved a style so ethereal that it
islands of Ugljan and Pašman have a particularly well- take you to the islet of Rutnjak, great for swimming, fishing is considered one of Croatia’s most highly prized products.
developed tradition of active tourism, and a number and diving. If not, you can always swim there. Hours of work goes into a tiny piece, so it is quite expensive
of routes cater both for those wanting a gentle sight- - expect to pay from 200kn for a small piece direct from the
seeing tour allowing you to see some of the islands’ Zadar Tourist Board office maker, or around 400kn for a mounted example from a Zadar
finest churches and monasteries, and for thrill-seekers QVeli Iž, tel. (+385-23) 27 70 21. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sat, gallery (try the Lik gallery, see “Shopping”). But it is a beautiful
demanding more challenging terrain. Pag island is ex- Sun 08:00 - 13:00. memento of your holiday, and your purchase supports a vital
cellent for intermediate cyclists, as it’s not too moun- cottage industry.
tainous and there’s plenty to see and do. The best kicks
and the most spectacular scenery are to be found in Ist & Molat In the mid 15th century, the Venetians commissioned Juraj
the Paklenica National Park. For more info call into the Molat is a relative giant of the Zadar archipelago, having Dalmatinac, Dalmatia’s most famous architect, to design the
Zadar County Tourist Office, Sv. Leopolda B. Mandića 3 - count ‘em! - attractive little hamlets. OK, we got a bit island capital, Pag town. It has a planned symmetrical layout,
1, Zadar tel. (+385-23) 31 53 16, carried away - they are very, very small. With only one ferry with a modest, drowsy feel. Walking through the streets, you
a day, Molat really is far from the madding crowd. There intimately feel the life that goes on inside the little cottages,
48 Zadar In Your Pocket Summer 2017 49
Zadar Surroundings Zadar Surroundings
place where you’ll find a great lounge bar, also fine for morn- the 17th century. Sadly, they are not in a great state of repar.
ing coffee. 2km from Tkon, there’s the Sovinje Naturist Camp The island has an unusual monument – a 30m high tower
(, which has lovely clean sandy beaches. (known as the Toreta) built by one of the island’s sea cap-
tains so that his wife could look out to sea and know when
Pašman Tourist Board he would return (and know when to get his dinner ready?).
QPašman, tel. (+385-23) 26 01 55, Some people are a bit less cynical than us and see it as a sym-
Open 08:00 - 12:00, 18:30 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 11:00. July, bol of love.
August Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 11:00.
Olib and Premuda are rather more sleepy. Like most Dalma-
Tkon Tourist Board tian islands, sandy Olib has no water sources, but unusually
Mountain Velebit and beach Zdrijac, Photo by Boris Kačan, Nin Tourist Board Archives QMulina 6, Tkon, tel. (+385-23) 28 52 13, www.tzo-tkon. it has an undersea pipeline bringing Velebit’s renowned pure
hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. water to the island. It also has many pheasants and rabbits,
The town’s most striking church, St Mary’s, was also de- which people run after with pop guns. Some say Olib’s cheese
Paklenica National signed by Dalmatinac. He combined a Romanesque Dalma- is better than the more famous one made on Pag, and the lo-
Park tian spirit with Renaissance and Gothic elements to create a Silba, Olib & Premuda cal wine and olive oil are also great stuff. Olib has a lovely little
striking edifice. The town has a few other interesting churches These small green islands with one village apiece, each neck- fort, the remains of a monastery, and five churches including
The Paklenica National Park lies just north of Zadar and palaces, wonderfully clean pebble beaches and several laced by sparkling-clean beaches, are well off the usual tour- the Church of the Assumption of Mary, where you can see
within the Velebit mountain range. Two streams, the good restaurants. ist repertoire but easily accessible by boat from Zadar (see a document written in the Glagolitic script – the alphabet in
Velika and Mala Paklenica, carve their way through “Getting around”). which Croatian was first written.
the soft limestone leaving gorges with cliffs up to 400m In the last few years, Pag has also built the reputation as
high, and fascinating rock formations characteristic of Croatia’s party island, and the place where it all happens is Silba, despite having no cars, is the liveliest of the three, and Premuda is a superb place for diving enthusiasts – it has an
karst territory. The scenery is incredible: the interior the town of Novalja. Novalja, though not the capital, is the is- is favoured by artists so has a rather bohemian atmosphere. underwater cavern known as The Cathedral to explore, and
is unexpectedly lush due to large quantities of pure land’s most populous settlement, and has most of its facilities The nightlife there is relaxed with great live music, including the wreckage of a ship, the St Istvan. Apart from that, ex-
spring water, allowing dense forests and lush meadows such as clinics and schools. A couple of kilometres from town jazz (of course), and a disco. Café Mik, by the church, plays pect nothing other than true, idyllic island life: stone houses,
to flourish. Local residents include the rare Griffon vul- is an excellent Blue Flag beach, Zrće, where a number of bars jazz (sometimes live sessions in the evenings), and has a oleanders and bougainvilleas, olives and figs and clean, clean
ture, sparrowhawks, chamois, wild boar, brown bears, and clubs, including coastal versions of some of Zagreb’s large space for art displays inside. Walk to the lovely gravelly shingle beaches. The perfect getaway.
wolves and lynx. most famous names, have opened to create Croatia’s answer beaches with agaves accompanying your way, learn to wind-
to Ibiza. There are restaurants, ice cream parlours, pools and surf, rent a boat or (if you’re energetic enough) have a game Silba Tourist Board
The park is a favourite destination for hikers and climb- more. It’s wildly popular. Because of that, some might find of tennis, basketball or volleyball. Although only 15km2, Silba QSilba, tel. (+385-23) 37 00 10, Open
ers. Over 150 km of hiking trails include the walk from it a bit too noisy and commercialised in high season. But has 6 lovely small churches, some of them dating back to 09:00 - 13:00, 19:00 - 22:00.
the park entrance through the Velika Paklenica Canyon never fear, Pag has the longest coastline of all Croatian islands
to the Paklenica Mountain Hut (about 2 hours), though (270km), and there are many places where you can escape
there are many more demanding routes. The park ad- the crowds. Expect lunar landscapes, white pebbles, crystal
ministration publishes excellent maps. Mountain hut clear water and, on the north side of the island, spectacular
accommodation is available - reserve in advance on views over the Velebit peaks on the mainland. One of our fa-
(+385-23) 30 16 36 or e-mail: pd.paklenica@zd.htnet. vourites is the Ručica beach near Metajna - turn left at the
hr. There is also a campsite with a beach (prices are on wooden sign before the village, and follow the road to the ). Starigrad, the town at the park’s end. You’ll need to walk the last bit. It’s wonderful to watch
entrance, has excellent pebble beaches and a number the sun go down, turning the rocks pink as you sit on pristine
of restaurants that offers dalmatian specialities. white pebbles by the crystalline, lagoon-calm sea.

Paklenica National Park Pag Tourist Information Centre
QDr.F.Tuđmana 14a, Starigrad-Paklenica, tel. QVela ulica 18, Pag, tel. (+385-23) 61 12 86, www.tzgpag.
(+385-23) 36 92 02/(+385-23) 36 91 55, hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00. Open 06:00 - 20:30. Ticket 30 - 150kn.

The Underground Town of Paklenica Pašman
Beneath the breath-taking natural phenomena of the You can reach Pašman either by crossing the road bridge
Velebit Mountain which is home to hikers, mountain from Ugljan, or by taking the ferry from Biograd to Tkon, the
climbers and bush walkers, a new world has been es- island’s main settlement. Like Ugljan, it’s fairly low-lying and
tablished. A fully restored bunker filled with tunnels fertile, with olive groves and vineyards. There are a couple
from the 1950s has been given a facelift. At a depth of of sand beaches at Kraj, a pleasant hamlet with a wonder-
80 meters, multi-disciplinary activities evoke the natu- fully preserved Franciscan Monastery, St Dominius, dat-
ral beauty of the Velebit with modern installations and ing back to the 14th century. Tkon also has a 12th century
interactive activities. Well worth a visit whilst there as Romanesque Benedictine convent, sited on Ćokovac hill,
it combines ecology, geology, speleology, botany, eth- overlooking the town. In general, Pašman consists of peaceful
nology, folklore and hamlets and coves to explore on land or by boat, to relax and
Open 08:00 - 15:30. Admission free. enjoy healthy local produce, or even stay in an eco-cottage. If
you fancy a little café society, head to Ždrelac, an idyllic little
50 Zadar In Your Pocket Summer 2017 51
Zadar Surroundings Leisure
Zadar is far from being just a walk-round museum of cul-
tural treasures and churches. It also stands in the middle of
a spectacularly unspoiled natural landscape, and is ideally
suited to an active holiday of peddling, climbing, sailing,

Adrenalin Sports
These are packages which offer activities for adults (18+)
with an element of thrill and danger (scuba diving, rock
climbing, wind surfing,…)

Bora Tours
In the mountains just east of Zadar is the beautiful green-
blue river Zrmanja, with rushing torrents, small water-
falls and canyons making for a spectacular, exciting and
refreshing ride. They also organise rafting, kayaking and
canoeing expeditions.QF‑4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel.
(+385-23) 33 77 60, Open 08:00 -
20:00. Closed Sat. N

Izazov Tours
Heart pumping, thrill seeking jumps that make for life-
long memories. The lads on the Maslenica Bridge are wait-
National Park Paklenica, Photo by Aleksandar Gospić ing for you; it’s like Point Break on altitude.QMaslenica
Bridge, tel. (+385) 098 53 22 53, www.izazov-tours.
hr. July - August 31 Open 14:00 - 20:00. Other months
Ugljan open by prior arrangement.
That tower you see on the pinnacle on the island opposite walk takes you to the other side of the island where you
when you look from Zadar is St Michael’s Church, an easy come to excellent beaches at Sabuša and Jelenica, some Surfmania centre
hike from the village of Preko on the island of Ugljan. The of which are sandy. The nearby cove of Kostanj also has Want a taste of adrenaline? Then head to the Ždrijac
island’s name comes from the Croatian word ulje, meaning a lovely shallow beach and the 13th century Romanesque Beach, next to Nin. There you’ll find a school for kitesurf-
oil - olive oil production used to be one of the main ac- Church of St Jerome (Sv. Jerolim) is nearby. Close to Kuk- ing and windsurfing, and you can even rent these along
tivities here. The gentle slopes facing Zadar are fertile, and ljica is the Zelena Punta (Green Cape) peninsula, a tour- stand up paddle boards. Drop in and be prepared to be
there’s a pleasant agricultural feel away from the coastal ist settlement where you’ll find a fantastic beach formed bloooooown away!QŽdrijac Beach, Nin, tel. (+385-) 098
settlements - you’ll see ladies walking along the road carry- of a promenade with deep shade from pine trees, super- 912 98 18, Open 12:00 - 18:00, de‑
ing the day’s harvest. clean water and shingle and sand in the water. The islet pending on weather conditions. Tajer lighthouse, Photo by Aleksandar Gospić, TZ Zadar Photonet Archives
of Ošljak is also popular for bathing - two Jadrolinija ferries
Kukljica is the main tourist development on Ugljan, and is call here per day, taking you to Zadar or Preko.
a great starting point for hiking and biking, a great way to Diving KK Libertas Archives

see the numerous historical sites on the island. There are a On August 5, Kukljica celebrates the festival of Our Lady Albamaris
number of routes outlined by the Tourist Board - call into of the Snows - apparently it snowed once here in August QIvane B. Mažuranić 4, Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 54 35/
their office or check out the website below. A 15 minute - and everybody complains about how bad the weather (+385-) 098 193 53 30, Open 08:00 -
is these days! A convoy of fishing boats travels ceremoni- 20:00. N
Surf, Photo by Boris Kačan, Nin Tourist Board Archives
ously to a nearby church. The port of Kali also celebrates
this occasion - the townspeople are famous for being great Scuba Adriatic
fishermen, and oddly enough, 90 percent of them went to QM‑3, Dražnikova 76 t, Zaton Holiday Resort, Zaton-
Panama and still can be seen fishing there to this day. Nin, tel. (+385-) 098 68 69 99/(+385-) 098 27 38 31, Open 10:00 - 18:00. N
Kukljica Tourist Board
QKukljica ulica II 87, tel. (+385-23) 37 32 76, www. Zadar Sub Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00. July - Sep‑ QN‑2, Dubrovačka 38, tel. (+385-23) 21 48 48/(+385-) 099
tember Open 08:00 - 20:00. 530 04 78, Open 08:00 - 20:00. N

Preko Tourist Board Zlatna luka
QMagazin 8, Preko, tel. (+385-23) 28 61 08, www.preko. QMarina Dalmacija, Bibinje - Sukošan, tel. (+385-) 091
hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00. 252 80 21, Open 10:00 -
18:00. N
52 Zadar In Your Pocket Summer 2017 53
Leisure Leisure
vided into three areas: Pirate City, Wild West and the Uni-
Excursions verse. Each thematic park is jammed with entertainment
These agencies offer one-day trips and longer trips to suit games, hospitality, souvenirs, events and concerts. Perfect
your needs (Kornati excursion, Plitvice…) for a day out!QFra Lina Pedisića 4, Biograd n/m, www.
Plitvice, Krka, Kornati trips. Also at Špire Brusine 13, D- Velebit Photo Safari
3QD‑2, Nova vrata bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 29 19, www. Adventure on four wheels with this jeep trip through the Open 07:30 - 22:00. July, August Velebit Mountains and the canyon of the Zrmanja River. It’s
Open 07:30 - 24:00. A an all day trip which lasts for 8 hours with plenty of stop
offs for photos and taking in the serene beauty of the sur-
Terra Sailing Trips roundings. Food and drinks are included in the package
Adventure enthusiasts can pick and choose from the and you can book telephone or email.Qtel. (+385) 098 27
amount of available packages on offer.QG‑3, Matije 28 78,
Gupca 2a, tel. (+385-23) 33 72 94, www.sailingcroatia.
hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00.
Val tours If you’re in the heart of Zadar and dying for a swim, you
Guided multiactivity tours. QTrg hrvatskih velikana 1, Bi‑ can head to the Riva, the promenade on the south side
ograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 64 79, Open of the Old Town, it’s perfectly clean for swimming. The tra-
08:00 - 22:00. ditional town beach is, however, at Kolovare, east of the
Old Town. Although the water is clean, unfortunately the
Cerovac Caves (Cerovačke špilje, Velebit pebble beach is not as attractive as it could be if someone
Nature Park) Zlatna luka, Zadar Tourist Board Archives would only pick up the pieces of brick and assorted rubble
Declared as a geo-morphological natural monument, the that have somehow found their way there. Kolovare beach
Cerovac Caves are one of the most famous caves in Croatia. Paklenica National Park Dalmatia Aquapark does have good facilities including cafes and restaurants,
The entire complex consists of three caves (Upper, Lower The Paklenica National Park is an excellent choice for Lots of fun for every family member; pools, slides and crazy and is a good place to hang out, day or night. There are
and Central) which run approx. 7km in length. Also, they climbers. Stunning karst landscapes, rich flora and fauna rides!QHoteli Solaris 86, Šibenik, tel. (+385-22) 36 10 01, more secluded bathing spots all the way to the headland
are one of the largest cave bear findings in Croatia which and innumerable torrents combine to create a little Open 09:00 - 20:00. in the east.
explains the given names such as the Bear Trench and piece of heaven. Add to that some challenging climbs on
Bear Hall.Qtel. (+385-) 099 814 47 24, www.pp-velebit. smooth rock and days bathed in brilliant sunshine over- Konjički centar Libertas Borik is a very popular place to bathe, and this year will
hr. Entrance hours: 10:00, 11:30, 13:00, 14:30, 16:00 and looking the sea, and you’re sold (or at least we are). There Located within the Zaton Resort, trail riding is offered be much improved after extensive investment. It’s good
17:30. Entrance hours April, September, October: 10:00, are over 150km mountaineering trail, which take a few which is customised to the varying degrees of knowledge for kids, as the bay is shallow with a sandy bottom, while
11:30, 13:00, 14:30 and 16:00. Admission for one cave days to hike. See peaks over 1600m high, steep-sided can- and skills of participants. The littlies are never forgotten the beach has had new shingle added this spring. The new
50/30 kn, two caves 80/50 kn. yons, creeks with pools and waterfalls and water so clean with pony rides available too. aqua park is sure to be a big hit with kids. There are plenty
you can drink it – it tastes great. Famous peak Anića Kuk Take the amazing Zaton ‘beach tour’ on horseback. Do of places for refreshments, watersports, beach games as
Dugi otok bay, Photo by Ivo Dunatov, TZ Zadar Photonet Archives
has a challenging smooth 400m high cliff which attracts note, for those who are not staying at the resort but wish well as toilets, showers and changing cubicles. The further
the greatest number of climbers. Two mountain refuges to go horse-riding, you will need to pay a 200kn entry fee west you walk from Borik, the quieter it gets. Diklo still has
open for visitors are Ivine vodice and Struge. There are a to enter the resort itself and when you get to the Libertas plenty of bars and restaurants, while Kožino is a refined
great number of routes for hikers and climbers. The Pak- Horse Centre, you will receive a refund voucher where you area of villas.
lenica National Park authorities can provide you with full will get your money back at the resort entry.QDražnikova
lists. Also check out for excellent 76 t, Zaton Holiday Resort, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-) 098 If you have wheels, north of Zadar you choose either the
pictures, information and advice.QDr. Franje Tuđmana 47 22 27, Open 07:00 - crystal, pine-fringed waters at Petrčane, or sandy bays at
14a, Starigrad - Paklenica, tel. (+385-23) 36 92 02/(+385- 13:00, 17:00 - 22:00. Zaton, Nin and Privlaka. Zaton is particularly good for
23) 36 91 55, Open 06:00 - 20:30. active types and families with children, as the holiday set-
30 - 150kn. Konjički klub Maximus tlement has tons of sports and games going on, the beach
There is no horsing around here; it’s all first class recre- is huge and the water is shallow. For those interested in cul-
ational riding. Novices are welcomed as they offer riding ture, Nin is one of Croatia’s most ancient settlements and
Family Fun school training, trail riding, hiking on horseback, and rid- there are curative mud baths nearby.
Organised activities for both kids and adults, day trips to ing for children at Bili Brig. Saddle up and giddy up!QN‑1, But definitely the best bathing awaits you on the islands.
devour, and safe sporting activities (i.e. horse riding, kayak- Ante Rudana 63, Bili Brig, tel. (+385-) 095 522 25 12. Closest is the island of Ošljak.. But the further you venture,
ing…) Open by prior arrangement. the better it gets.

Adventure Park Zadar Mirnovec Fun Park All the islands we feature in Zadar Surroundings have their
Adventure and fun for everyone with paintball, zipline One of the newest attractions to this part of Croatia is the own little pieces of heaven. Hire a boat, and pick yours!
and kids’ playground.QKožinska cesta 108, Kožino, tel. opening of this Gardaland style Adventure Park in Biograd And once you get to the quieter islands, of course, you can
(+385-) 098 85 44 31, Open na Moru. Based on other famous world entertainment find secluded places where you can happily sun yourself au
09:00 - 21:00. N centres, patrons will be able to enjoy 24 attractions di- naturel, undisturbed.
54 Zadar In Your Pocket Summer 2017 55

Art Galleries Guliver
Anima High quality accessories from another Croatian manu-
Paintings and postcards by well-known local artist Zoran facturer of shoes and handbags, as well as belts, scarves,
Debelić. Dalmatian themes.QC‑3, Vladimira Papafave wallets and more! With 30 years under their belt, their
1, tel. (+385-23) 31 78 01/(+385-) 091 545 19 50, www. products are not only trendy in keeping up with the times Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - but valued.QC‑3, Široka ulica 10, tel. (+385-23) 24 04 45,
13:00. Closed Sun. A Open 08:00 - 22:00.

As you stroll towards ‘Four kantuna’ at the top of Klaićeva Delicatessen shop
Street, you will hardly notice this small gallery which bares Atrox vina
the popular name buža (locally defined as a ‘hole’). Be sure A well-stocked store with imported and Croatian wines
to drop by this small family owned gallery run by academ- from all regions, as well as sparkling wines and cham-
ic painters Nedeljko Šuvar and Duje Šuvar.QD‑3, Mihovila pagnes! The company occasionally organises the promo-
Klaića 4. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. N tion of local wines in collaboration with local hotels or
restaurants. So deep thinkers of wine, or connoisseurs of
Laudato the fine drop will find Atrox vina heaven on earth.QD‑1,
Gallery of sacred art and Croatian souvenirs.QD‑3, Don J.J.Strosmayera 14, tel. (+385-23) 30 54 26, www.atrox-
Ive Prodana 11, tel. (+385-23) 30 07 49/(+385-) 091 589 Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed
84 14, Open 09:00 - 13:00, Sun. A
18:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A
A wine warehouse with a good selection of gourmet
Made in Croatia products and gifts.QC‑3, Kraljskog Dalmatina 7, tel.
Borovo (+385-23) 25 02 46. Open 09:00 - 21:00. July, August
Croatia’s largest shoe producer which manufactures and Open 09:00 - 23:00. A
exports new collections as well as redesigned classics
such as the already popular Startas. There is Boromina, Crolicious
Borosana, My Ballerinas and more, so it’s best to hop A goodie foodie gastro store with Croatian and local prod-
into a store for a truly 100% authentic Croatian souvenir ucts particularly from Dalmatia. Delicacies also include
or gift…QC‑3, Široka ulica bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 13 37, fine wines, homemade cosmetics and much more, all of Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. which make for a good and tasty souvenir.QC‑3, Vladi‑
Closed Sun. mira Papafave 1, tel. (+385-) 091 358 17 71. Open 09:00
- 21:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 23:00. A
Feel like shopping! Then keep an eye out for this Croatian Delikatese Lukin
manufacturer of quality clothing products traditionally Established in 1919 and four generations later the tradition
known for conventional and classical underwear. Today, continues! This family prides itself on the typical Dalma-
the company also has a clothing line aimed at a younger tian delicacies they have mastered including various types
audience following the latest trends in design. Another of homemade sausages, prosciutto, pancetta and other
range is geared towards the Hajduk Split Football Club, meat products. Smok’n meat is their treat!QC‑2, Pod be‑
with clothing merchandise also available.QC‑3, Borelli demom 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 15 93. Open 07:00 - 13:00,
1, tel. (+385-23) 31 69 57, Open 08:00 - Sun 07:00 - 11:00. J­A
21:00. Closed Sun. A
Museum of Illusions Archives Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag.
It produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised
Also at Hrvoja V. Hrvatinčića 5 (City Market) tel. 70 07 30,
Open Mon - Sat 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00.QN‑5,
Murvička 1 (City Galleria), tel. (+385-23) 31 33 96, www. Open 07:00 - 14:00, Mon, Sat 07:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. A

56 Zadar In Your Pocket
Shopping Where to stay
Authentic prosciutto, bacon and other traditional meat hotels increasingly important role in Croatian tourism and aim to
products that are produced and sold from their very own In Croatia hotels are graded two, three, four or five star. attract guests all year round.
production facility. In addition, they also offer cheese, Private apartments are the most widely available type
wine, olive oil, salted anchovies, and other delicacies Hotels graded two star are usually managed by the own- of accommodation, especially on the islands. It seems that
from local producers. It’s a Dalmatian sensation!QL‑4, ers, so the advantages include a friendly family atmo- every house on the Adriatic coast has rooms or apartments
J.J.Strossmayera 15, tel. (+385-) 091 413 72 14, www. sphere. The hotels are clean but basic and are equipped to let in the summer months. This is a way of life in Croatia, Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - very simply. Most two star hotels do not have their own and usually provides one of the main sources of income
20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A restaurant but you can usually find good restaurants with for families.
reasonable prices nearby. The advantages of holidaying in apartments on the Croa-
tian coast include great value for money and direct contact
Museum Artwork Three star hotels generally offer rather more spacious ac- with the owner. The choice of apartments on the Croatian
The Ancient Glass Museum Shop commodation with well-equipped rooms, but the hotel coast is diverse, ranging from low-priced rooms to luxury
Some say ‘a glass a day keeps the doctor away’, and you services usually do not include a porter. Three star hotels apartments. It used to be common for owners of private
can pick and choose from a wide selection of authentic usually have mid-sized restaurants. The availability of room rooms to stand on the main highway that runs along the
drinking glasses and other souvenirs made of glass includ- service depends on the hotel. A car park, gym and swim- coast or at bus and train stations holding signs saying
ing a wonderful necklace made by Antonija Gospić.QD‑2, ming pool are frequently provided. “Zimmer Frei” (“Vacant Room” in German, since the major-
Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 31, ity of visitors at that time were German-speaking). Accom- Open 09:00 - 21:00. A Four star hotels are usually large formal hotels with staffed modation advertised in this way is usually lower in quality
reception areas and porters. Four star hotels are usually lo- and is often illegal but the owner may be open to a little
The Archaeological Museum Shop cated close to areas with shops, restaurants and other main haggling if the tourist is prepared for a little excitement!
An interesting and attractive offer of souvenirs from the mu- attractions. The level of service is significantly above aver- Stone villas are an increasingly popular choice for fami-
seum consists of casts and copies of useful items, jewellery, age, the rooms are tastefully furnished and the hotel usu- lies who have a little more money to spend, especially in
and simple home decorations made from different materi- ally has a good restaurant. Room service is usually available Istria. When you reserve a villa like this it is important to
als, from ceramics, plaster, stone and metal. Best of all, it’s for most of the day. Most often guests have use of a car find out how far you will be from the sea, if that is impor-
all handmade!QC‑3, Trg opatice Čike 1, park, gym and one or more swimming pools. tant to you, because many such properties are located in
Open 09:00 - 21:00. July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00. N the hinterland, although they may have swimming pools.
Five star hotels offer the highest quality accommoda- Villas are often outside highly populated areas, so are an
tion. Although most five star hotels are large, some are ideal choice if peace and quiet are important factors in
Maraska Souvenirs small independent hotels (i.e. not part of a chain) offering your choice.
Purveyors of alcoholic and non-alcoholic renditions of the Andreaart an elegant intimacy. Five star hotels have restaurants with
Maraschino cherry; plus a selection of other potions to A small gift shop where you can find local ceramics, hand- carefully selected menus. Room service is usually available Those who love to be alone and completely unplug from
soften your vocal chords and your general view of human- bags, jewellery, paintings, lamps and other one of a kind round the clock. Guests usually have a fitness centre and civilisation can also select Robinson Crusoe style ac-
ity. Other groceries available too.QB‑3, Mate Karamana home décor! Best of all, it’s 100% local in design and hand- spa on offer and a parking service or garage. A receptionist commodation in remote bays or on small islands such as
3, tel. (+385-) 099 755 91 61, Open made of course.QC‑3, J.M.Dalmatinca 5, tel. (+385-23) is also on duty 24 hours. Pašman, Drvenik or Dugi Otok. Accommodation like this
09:00 - 16:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 64 62 48. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Croatia also offers specialised wellness hotels which have may not even have a connection to mains water or elec-
- 12:00, 17:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Sun. From July Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. opened to meet global demand for health and wellness tricity, using rainwater and solar power. It is the perfect
tourism. Most of the wellness and spa centres are located choice if you want to enjoy unspoilt nature and be right
Olvin Cvjećarnica Snježana in Opatija, Dubrovnik and on Lošinj island. The island of by the sea.
A company producing its own high-quality olive oil, also Gents, you can never go wrong with flowers and there’s def- Lošinj has a tradition of health tourism going back 125
selling wines and juices.QN‑5, Ljudevita Posavskog 35. initely a fine assortment of all sorts at this store. Other items years, with its roots in the Austro-Hungarian Empire when
Open 07:00 - 14:30, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N include souvenirs, tiny laces, lavender sachets, handmade the island’s beneficial climate and vegetation were first Hostels
handbags and more.QC‑3, J.M.Dalmatinca 7, tel. (+385-) recognised. Hostels are meeting places offering individuality, variety,
099 213 13 08. Open Mon - Wed 8:00 - 12:30, Thu - Fri Heritage hotels are located in older buildings of cultural simplicity and a friendly atmosphere, all at a reasonable 08:00 - 12:30, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. and historic significance. The hotel menu should be repre- price. Hostels were once ultra-basic but today they are
sentative of local cuisine. modern, safe and fun places of a surprisingly high stan-
zadarinyourpocket Boutique hotels are luxurious smaller hotels with an inti- dard. As well as a multitude of campsites, apartments,
mate atmosphere. They may be part of a larger chain, but resorts and hotels, the Croatian coast in recent times has
they are unique in the way that they are decorated, each become home to fantastic unique hostels which contrib-
Shopping centres room often being different. Here the individual approach ute to making the country a brilliant place to stay.
is based on anticipating guests’ needs before they even Hostels in Croatia are inexpensive so it’s only to be expect-
City Galleria articulate them. These small, luxury hotels are becom- ed that the creature comforts are not the same as in other
QN‑5, Murvička 1, tel. (+385-23) 30 01 00, www. ing more popular in this region over the last few years as types of accommodation. They are popular with young Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. P guests become weary of the standard offering. people who are just passing through and who only need
a place to stay for a night or two, although anyone who
Supernova centar Zadar needs cheaper accommodation can use hostels. Rooms in
QAkcije Maslenica 1, tel. (+385-23) 32 73 01, www. Private accommodation hostels usually have multiple beds and shared bathrooms, Open 09:00 - 22:00. W In Croatia there are more rooms available in private accom- but the level of comfort offered is becoming ever closer to
Crolicious Gourmet & Gift Shop Archives modation than in hotels. Family-run hotels are taking on an that offered by hotels.
58 Zadar In Your Pocket Summer 2017 59
Arrival & Getting Around Arrival & Getting Around
booths, intersections, ferry terminals and around coastal re- for bicycle rental. Each day users have a 30-minute free ride
sorts on Fridays and Sundays. If you can’t avoid travelling at available and if you surpass those 30 minutes; then there is
weekends, you may find that the roads clear up in the even- an additional 8kn hourly charge (
ing. Tolls are payable on Croatian motorways - most curren-
cies are accepted. Calimero
QM‑5, Ulica II zasjedanja ZAVNOH-a 1a, tel. (+385-23)
31 10 10/(+385-) 095 300 40 00, www.calimero-sport.
arriving By plane hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Zadar’s airport (zračna luka) is in Zemunik Donji, 9km south-
east of the city. Changing money: OTP banka in the pas- Eurobike - Bianchi
senger terminal operates an exchange service and an ATM. QC‑1, Obala kneza Branimira 2a, tel. (+385-23) 24 12 43.
Getting to town: Liburnija runs buses between the termi- Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
nal, the city bus station and the quayside near the ferryport
on the Old Town peninsula. Bus lines are organised to con- Mondena travel
nect with the flight timetable, and one-way tickets cost 25kn. QD‑3, Trg Petra Zoranića 3, tel. (+385-23) 31 37 47/(+385-)
098 65 47 02, Open 08:30 - 12:30,
Zadar airport (Zračna luka Zadar) 17:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:30 - 13:30, Sun by prior arrangement.
Croatia Airlines has domestic services to Pula and Zagreb A
and major European destinations. Charter flights during
summer. Croatia Airlines desk is Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun Zzuum
according to flight schedule and also 90mins before Croatia QD‑3, Špire Brusine 12, tel. (+385-) 091 733 16 10/(+385-)
Airlines and Lufthansa departures.QZemunik Donji, tel. 098 27 21 00, Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun
Port, Photo by Tim Ertl, Zadar Tourist Board Archives (+385-23) 20 58 00, 08:00 - 13:00.

arriving By boat arriving By bus arriving By train Car rental
Your arrival in Zadar is spectacular: the passenger boats The bus station is on the crossroads northeast of the Old The train station is right next to the bus station. Somehow, Avia
dock right on the Old Town peninsula. All the amenities of Town heading towards Split, Rijeka and Zagreb. Because the transport planners failed to integrate Zadar with mainline Rent a scooter too. Also at Zadar airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84
the Old Town are just behind that defensive wall you see bus services are so much used, the bus station is a real hub routes. This means that journeys between Zadar and Za- 02, (+385-) 091 898 91 12, Open 08:00 - 21:00.QD‑2, Narod‑
there. and has everything you need. Left luggage (garderoba) is greb or Split are possible but involve changing trains and nog lista 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 25 79/(+385-) 091 570 22 31,
Jadrolinija's international services connect Zadar with in the ticket hall and works from 06:00 to 22:00 and costs 4kn take considerably longer than travel by bus. The train station Open 08:00 - 20:30. A
Ancona (Italy) almost every day. Local ferries (trajektne per hour. Toilets: located on the right as you face the build- doesn’t have a lot of facilities, but since you are next door to
linije) run from Gaženica Ferry Port (R-5) and passenger ing from the platforms. Public phones are on the platforms the bus station, you can make use of all the services avail-
boats (brodske linije) run from Zadar Old Town (J-5) to and in front of the building. Getting to town: On the road in able there. The ticket office is open 07:10 - 14:40. Closed Sat, Tourist Information
the surrounding islands. The islands are simply gorgeous, front of the bus station are bus stops for the local lines which Sun. Outside those times tickets can be bought on board the
so it's well worth making the pleasant trip, and absolutely take you to the Old Town, Borik, Diklo and the suburbs. A trains, online on or via smart phone applica- During July, Zadar Tourist Board, Zadar County Tourist
affordable. Not all services run daily, so do take care when 10kn ticket bought inside the bus gets you a one way trip; tion HZPP tickets. Board and Zadar Tourist Information Centre will move
studying the timetable, or ask for help at the office. These a 16kn ticket bought at news stands buys you two trips.The Getting to town: On the road in front of the bus station are into a common office at the following address: Jurja
routes are for car ferries unless otherwise stated. Catama- ticket office at the station is open 05:40 - 22:00. bus stops for the local lines which take you to the Old Town, Barakovića 5 (D-2). All telephone numbers, working
rans do not take cars on board.Tickets for local catamarans Borik, Diklo and the suburbs. A 10kn ticket bought inside the hours, as well as email addresses will stay the same.
and international ferries can be purchased online. For local Zadar Coach Station bus gets you a one way trip.
catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance Coach travel is the cheapest and quickest option for those Tourist Information Centre
(maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling. looking to explore the region on a shoestring. A huge num- Central train station (Željeznički kolod- QD‑3, Mihe Klaića 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 61 66, www.
ber of Croatian destinations are served, as well as a growing vor) June, September Open 08:00 - 22:00,
Jadrolinija number of foreign destinations in all points of the compass. QO‑1, Ante Starčevića 4, tel. (+385-23) 21 12 67/National Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 08:00 -
QA‑2, Liburnska obala 7, tel. (+385-23) 25 48 00/(+385- The general ticket office is open 05:40 - 22:00.QO‑2, Ante info line: 060 33 34 44, 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.
23) 25 05 55, Open 07:00 - 21:00. Starčevića 1, tel. (+385-) 060 30 53 05, www.liburnija-
QB‑2, Liburnska obala 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 09 96/(+385- Zadar Tourist Board
23) 25 10 01, Open 06:00 - 22:15. Biking QD‑3, Ilije Smiljanića 5, tel. (+385-23) 21 22 22, fax
QR‑5, Gaženička cesta 28a, tel. (+385-23) 66 61 00/ Although the infrastructure for cycling is almost non-exist- (+385-23) 21 17 81, Open 08:00 -
(+385-23) 66 61 01, Open 04:30 - arriving By car ent, it is of course possible to rent-a-bike to at least see the 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
23:00. July - September 04 Open 04:30 - 24:00. The A1 motorway between Zagreb and Dalmatia is a com- city landmarks and monuments, or beach hop from one to
plete, navigable whole with no interruptions. Zadar is the another of course. There are a few bike stores around town Zadar County Tourist Board
Miatours first port of call, and the motorway continues past all the that charge around 100kn per day and if you choose to rent QA‑3, Sv. Leopolda Mandića 1, tel. (+385-23) 31
Catamaran Lines Zadar- Premuda – Silba- Olib.QB‑2, major resorts on the way to Split and beyond. Journey time for a few days in a row, the price is then discounted. 53 16, fax (+385-23) 31 51 07, Open
Vrata Sv. Krševana, tel. (+385-23) 25 43 00/(+385-23) 25 between Zagreb and Zadar is about 2.5 hours depending on Option two is the Nextbike system where you can rent and 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
44 00, Open 08:00 - 15:00, Fri 08:00 - when you travel. Since most holidaymakers travel at week- return a bike at any one of four city locations. The initial
17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A ends, there can be congestion on borders, at motorway toll amount you pay is 79kn and that amount is used as credit
60 Zadar In Your Pocket Summer 2017 61
Arrival & Getting Around Zadar Basics
Dollar & Thrifty Customs Visas
QZadar Airport, tel. (+385-23) 31 57 33/(+385-) 098 42 There are no custom limits between EU member states or tax Croatian visa policies are fully compliant with the European
48 91, Open 08:00 - 20:00. A return. For other non-member states we recommend you to Union visa policy and standards. What does that mean? All
follow info at citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member
Hertz states will need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make
QZadar Airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84 00/(+385-) 091 415 sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your coun-
55 42, Open 08:00 - 21:00. A Disabled Travellers try of origin, before visiting Croatia. In addition, if you are
Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities through-
Lulić shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still out Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple
Also at Zadar Airport, tel.(+385-) 098 31 37 47.QJ‑ ‑1, Put a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and
kotarskih serdara 60, tel. (+385-23) 24 22 24/(+385-) 098 parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforemen-
31 37 47, Open 07:00 - 23:00. A adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable tioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.
Zadar Tourist Board Archives access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying
Modul Auto that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on
QO‑1, Zagrebačka 90, tel. (+385-) 091 222 26 92, www. There is a somewhat larger car park on the mainland by the the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you're Water Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. footbridge. See the map at the back of the guide. Disabled planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destina- Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.
Closed Sun. A parking spaces are available in all car parks. Parking in Zadar tion in relation to these matters and the majority will endeav-
every day from Jul 1 to Aug 31, 08:00 - 22:00 is charged at our to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.
Oryx the following rates: in Zone 1 - 12 kn/h; Zone 2 - 10 kn/h; When things go wrong
QZadar Airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84 15/(+385-) 099 634 Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h. In May, June and Sep- Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zadar significantly
93 27, Open 08:00 - 21:00. A tember, 08:00 - 22:00 every day except Sunday at the fol- Electricity lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep
lowing rates: Zone 1 - 6 kn/h; Zone 2 - 4 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emer-
Terra kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h. States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appli- gency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergen-
QG‑2, Matije Gupca 2a, tel. (+385-23) 33 72 94, www. ances. cy Number (+385) 112 which then transfers you to police, Open 08:00 - 21:00. Text Message Parking ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district,
Croatia is proud to be the first country where you can pay in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested,
for parking by text message! Look for the signs in park- Money you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case,
Left Luggage ing areas – they should have a blue or white field. Simply There are plenty of exchange offices around Zadar, as well contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for
Bagul send the registration number of your car as a text message as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. ER is located in General Hospital in Bože Peričića 5 (L-4)
Here for a short time and don’t want to carry luggage (no spaces, no special characters) to 70 8231 ( zone 1), 70 Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car
around, visit Bagul where you can safely leave your be- 8232 ( zone 2), 70 8233 (zone 3), 70 8234 (zone 4), 70 8236 be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you're accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385) 1987, and as for
longings. Prices range from 8 kn per hour depending on (Petrčane zone). Your payment is confirmed when you get planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should accidents on the sea call (385) 195.
the size of your luggage bag and time of drop off. Up to 50 a message back from them. definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think
kn for the entire day!QB‑2, Poljana Pape Aleksandra III you'll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on Zadar Tourist Board Archives
7, tel. (+385-23) 23 04 82/(+385-) 091 956 48 04. Open plastic could be a problem.
07:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00, 15:30 - 21:00. Public transport
City bus services are run by Liburnija, and connect the Old
Town with the main coach and train stations and all sur- Roads
Parking rounding suburbs and beach areas. There is a ticket office When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driv-
Parking is limited by space in the old city, and by the fact outside the train and coach stations, Open 07:00 - 14:00, ing licence, traffic licence and green card with them. Stand-
that within the walls most of it is pedestrianised. There are Sat 08:00 - 12:00. There you can buy a ticket valid for two ard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no
a few car parks inside, otherwise there are parking spaces journeys for 16kn. Alternatively, buy tickets inside the bus mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for
alongside the city walls on the way to the ferry terminal. (10kn for one trip). drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is
50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h on secondary
Zadar Tourist Board Archives Liburnija roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they say, leave sooner,
QO‑4, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. (+385-) 060 30 53 05, drive slower, live longer.
Taxi Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café
There are a multitude of taxi companies waiting to trans- culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does
port your person, for which an equally varied array of prices mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establish-
apply. Ranging from 20kn to 40kn for a 5km trip, your safest ments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments
bet is to ask the cost of the journey before entering the taxi. give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not,
Be aware that a night supplement of 20% applies, and a 60 yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces includ-
kn/hr waiting rate is standard. Please make sure the meter ing restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare
is turned on when you enter, for your and the driver’s sake. seat at even the most popular eateries if you're prepared to
move inside.
62 Zadar In Your Pocket Summer 2017 63
Forum K-6/C-3
K-6/C-3 JurjaDalmatinca
Jurja DalmatincaMatejeva
Matejeva L-5/C-3
L-5/C-3 Obalak.k.P.P.Krešimira
Obala KrešimiraIVIVK,L-6/B,D-4
K,L-6/B,D-4 SlavoljubaPenkale
Slavoljuba Penkale K-4
K-4 Trgsv.
Trg sv.Stošije
Stošije K-6/B-3
Alesandra Paravije B-3
B-3 Trgtri
bunara K-5/A-3
Foša L-6/D,E-4
L-6/D,E-4 Kazališniprolaz
Kazališni prolaz C-3
C-3 Obalakralja
Obala kraljaTomislava
Tomislava L,M-5/D-2
L,M-5/D-2 StaraVoštarnica
Stara Voštarnica L-5/C-1
L-5/C-1 Trg K-5/A-3
Ante Kuzmanića E-3,4
E-3,4 UlicaBorelli
Borelli L-6/C-3
Fra DonataFabijanića
Fabijanića K-6/A,B-3
K-6/A,B-3 KnezovaŠubića
Knezova ŠubićaBribirskih
Bribirskih F-6
F-6 Okovrulja
Oko vrulja K-4
K-4 Stomorica
Stomorica L-6/C-3,4
L-6/C-3,4 Ulica L-6/C-3
Bana JosipaJelačića
Jelačića D-1
D-1 Varoška L-6/C,D-3
Fra ŠimunaKlimantovića
Klimantovića L-6/D-4
L-6/D-4 KraljaDmitra
Kralja DmitraZvonimira
Zvonimira M-6
M-6 PerivojJarula
Perivoj Jarula L,M-5/D,E-2
L,M-5/D,E-2 StubeSlavoljuba
Stube SlavoljubaPenkale
Penkale K-4
K-4 Varoška L-6/C,D-3
Bartula Kašića D-3/E-3
D-3/E-3 VatroslavaLisinskog
Lisinskog J,K-3,4
Franje Milana L-6/D-4
L-6/D-4 KraljskogDalmatina
Kraljskog Dalmatina L-6/C-3
L-6/C-3 Perivojk.k.J.-Madijevke
Perivoj J.-Madijevke L,M-6/D,E-3
L,M-6/D,E-3 Sv.Nediljice
Sv. Nediljice L-6/C-4
L-6/C-4 Vatroslava J,K-3,4
Bedemi zadarskihpobuna
pobuna A,B,C,D-2
A,B,C,D-2 Velebitska L-4,5/D-1
Frederica Grisogona
Frederica Grisogona L-5/D-2
L-5/D-2 KrešimiraČošića
Krešimira Čošića M-6
M-6 PerivojVladimira
Perivoj VladimiraNazora
Nazora M-5,6/E-3
M-5,6/E-3 ŠimeLjubavca
Šime Ljubavca L-6/D-4
L-6/D-4 Velebitska L-4,5/D-1
Benedikte Braun M-5
M-5 Veslačka L-4,5/D-1
Grge Oštrića J-4
J-4 Krešimirovaobala
Krešimirova obala B-4
B-4 Podbedemom
Pod bedemom K,L-5/C-2
K,L-5/C-2 ŠimeLjubića
Šime Ljubića L-6/D-4
L-6/D-4 Veslačka L-4,5/D-1
Bijanchinija K-5/B-3
K-5/B-3 VjekoslavaMaštrovića
Maštrovića J-4
Grgura Mrganića K-6/B-3
K-6/B-3 Liburnskaobala
Liburnska obala K-5/B-2
K-5/B-2 PoljanaNatka
Poljana NatkaNodila
Nodila K-5/B-2
K-5/B-2 ŠimeVitasovića
Šime Vitasovića L-5/D-2,3
L-5/D-2,3 Vjekoslava J-4
Biskupa JurjaDivnića
Divnića K-5/B-2
K-5/B-2 VladimiraPapafave
Papafave K-6/A,B-3
Grigora Viteza L-3
L-3 LukeJelića
Luke Jelića K-6/A-3
K-6/A-3 PoljanaŠime
Poljana ŠimeBudinića
Budinića C-6/D-3
C-6/D-3 ŠimunaBenje
Šimuna BenjeKožičića
Kožičića K-5/B-2,3
K-5/B-2,3 Vladimira K-6/A,B-3
Blaža Jurjeva L-6/C-3
L-6/C-3 Voštarnica L-4
Hrvoja HrvatinićaVukčića
Vukčića L-6/C-2
L-6/C-2 Lukoranska
Lukoranska K-4
K-4 Poljanska
Poljanska L,M-3
L,M-3 Širokaulica
Široka ulica K,L-6/B,C-3
K,L-6/B,C-3 Voštarnica L-4
Borelli L-6/C-3
L-6/C-3 Vratasv.
Kršovana K-5
Ilije Smiljanića L-5,6/D-3
L-5,6/D-3 MajkeMargarite
Majke Margarite L-6/C-3
L-6/C-3 Pravdonoše
Pravdonoše K-5/B-2
K-5/B-2 ŠpireBrusine
Špire Brusine L-6/D-3
L-6/D-3 Vrata K-5
Božidara Petranovića K-6/A-3
K-6/A-3 Vratasv.
Roka K-5
Istarska Obala J-5,6/A-3
J-5,6/A-3 MatejaBošnjaka
Mateja Bošnjaka K-5/B-2
K-5/B-2 PrečacNikole
Prečac NikoleJakšića
Jakšića K-4
K-4 TanzlingeraZanottija
Tanzlingera Zanottija K-6/B-3
K-6/B-3 Vrata K-5
Braće Bersa K-6/A-3
K-6/A-3 Zadarskogmiramira K-6
Ivana Brkanovića L-4,5/C-1
L-4,5/C-1 Madijevaca
Madijevaca K,L-6/C-3
K,L-6/C-3 PPrreeččkkaa LL--33 Trgopatice
Trg opaticeČike
Čike B-3
B-3 Zadarskog K-6
Braće Bilšić K-6/A-3
K-6/A-3 Zlatarska L-5/C-2
Ivana Bršića K-5
K-5 Međubedemima
Među bedemima M-6
M-6 Prilaz hrvatske čitaonice
Prilaz hrvatske čitaonice K-6
K-6 Trgpet
Trg petbunara
bunara L-6/D-3
L-6/D-3 Zlatarska L-5/C-2
Braće Vranjanin L-6/C-3
L-6/C-3 Zoredalmatinske
dalmatinske L-6/C-3
Ivana Danila K-6/A-3
K-6/A-3 MiheKlaića
Mihe Klaića L-6/D-3
L-6/D-3 ProkonzulaGrgura
Prokonzula Grgura K-5,6/B-2,3
K-5,6/B-2,3 TrgPetra
Trg PetraZoranića
Zoranića L-6/D-3
L-6/D-3 Zore L-6/C-3
Brne Karnarutića K,L-5/C-2
K,L-5/C-2 Zrinsko-Frankopanska M-5
Ivana Mažuranića K-4,5/B,C-1
K-4,5/B,C-1 MihovilaPavlinovića
Mihovila Pavlinovića L-6/C,D-4
L-6/C,D-4 PutDikla
Put Dikla G,J-3
G,J-3 Trgsv.
Trg sv.Frane
Frane K-6/A-3
K-6/A-3 Zrinsko-Frankopanska M-5
Brodarska K-4/L-4/C-1
Ivana Meštrovića K-3,4
K-3,4 MiroslavaKrleže
Miroslava Krleže J,K-4
J,K-4 PutŠimunova
Put Šimunova L,M-3,4
L,M-3,4 Trgsv.
Trg sv.Krševana
Krševana K-5/B,C-2
Ćirila Ivekovića L-6/C-4
Dalmatinskog Sabora L-5,6
L-5,6 JakšeČedomila-Čuke
Jakše Čedomila-Čuke K-5/B-3
K-5/B-3 N.Nikole
N. NikoleMatafara
Matafara K-5/B-3
K-5/B-3 RafaelaLevakovića
Rafaela Levakovića L-6/D-4
DDininaarrsskkaa JJ--44 JerolimaVidulića
Jerolima Vidulića K-6/B-3
K-6/B-3 Narodnitrg
Narodni trg L-6/C,D-3
L-6/C,D-3 Ravnice
Ravnice M-6
DonIve IveProdana
Prodana L-5,6/D-3 JosipaJurja
Josipa JurjaStrossmayera
Strossmayera L-4
L-4 Narodnoglista
Narodnog lista L-5/D-2
L-5/D-2 RikardaJeretova
Rikarda JeretovaKatalinića
Katalinića L-5/C-1
Đure Sudete
J-3,4 JurjaBarakovića
Jurja Barakovića L-5/D-2,3
L-5/D-2,3 Obalakneza
Obala knezaBranimira
Boškovića L-6/D-3,4
Elizabete Kotromanić L-6/D-3
L-6/D-3 JurjaBijankinija
Jurja Bijankinija K-6/B-3
K-6/B-3 Obala K-5/A,B,C,D-1 Sirac L-6/D-4 Beach Sakarun, Dugi otok, Photo by Aleksandar Gospić

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