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Beauty through the ages
Paths Of Salt
The essential element
N°13 - complimentary copy
Escape the crowds
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
Check out the highlights
Arrival & Getting Around
The A-Z of Zadar
Croatia’s Secret Islands
Age old tradition
Coffee & Cakes 34
Music to your ears
Places to stay for every pocket
We give you the bread ‘n’ butter of where to eat
Priceless places and buys
You won’t be bored
Your place to relax
Culture & Events
Zadar Surroundings 48
The top getaways
Lost? Help is at hand
Paths Of Salt 47
From the Roman Empire to now
A warm welcome with a wow factor
List of Small Features
Beauty in Roman times
How are glass souvenirs made?
The Foodie’s guide
City Centre Map
City Map/Street Register
Test your perception at this amazingly new and unique Museum of Illusions where things do not appear as they should. Read more at page 44.
Summer 2016 3
Arrival & Getting Around
Honesty is the best policy
and during the summer sea@InYourPocket
son, the city of Zadar, just like most other major coastal
towns, does get overpopulated. Therefore, to avoid being
cramped and people hearing the ‘oh no, we’re packed like
sardines’ lingo, as well as the extreme heat, we suggest you
follow our mini tips andvine.co/inyourpocket
recommendations because to put
it simply, ‘we know,’ so do follow! Mornings are the best
time to browse the city and fish markets, enjoy the scents
and colours of local food from the surrounding areas and
villages, and drink coffee with locals because it is at this
time that many visitors are still fast asleep or elsewhere. If
you are a true early bird, you still have the time to go for a
swim in the clear sea as this can be done in the city itself
right on the Riva. Seeing a museum or two is also a lovely
way to spend your
morning too. In terms of noon, this is
best spent in the shade where possible and lunch can be
eaten in any of the recommended restaurants from our IYP
guide. When the sun goes down then getting out is what
it’s all about, the party and festivities are aplenty. And depinterest.com/inyourpocket
pending on how
many days you have available, island hopping and visiting national parks is the best way to destress
and be totally impressed!
Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb
Company Office What’s
& Accountsgoing on?
Zadar In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia
Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24
Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.
Printed by Radin Print, Sv. Nedelja
Where’s the party?
Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Nikola Badovinac,
Jelena Šimić Valentić
Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac
Assistant Editor All
Community manager Eli Gajinov
Design Lovro Boljat
Photography Zadar In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated
Cover © Mladen Radolović, Zadar Tourist Board Archives
Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević
Support Sales Blanka Valić, Eli Gajinov, Kristina Štimac
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copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts
for the purpose of review,
here?permission from the
publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket
from UAB In Your
Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Zadar In Your Pocket is
for any information which might change after
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on Molat reviews online:
island in the Zadar archi??city??.inyourpocket.com
bay is a safe and
beautiful anchorage for
4 Zadar In Your Pocket
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ARRIVING BY BOAT
Your arrival in Zadar is spectacular: the passenger boats
dock right on the Old Town peninsula. All the amenities of
the Old Town are just behind that defensive wall you see
Jadrolinija’s international services connect Zadar with
Ancona (Italy) almost every day. Local ferries (trajektne
linije) run from Gaženica Ferry Port (R-5) and passenger
boats (brodske linije) run from Zadar Old Town (J-5) to
the surrounding islands. The islands are simply gorgeous,
so it’s well worth making the pleasant trip, and absolutely
affordable. Not all services run daily, so do take care when
studying the timetable, or ask for help at the office. These
routes are for car ferries unless otherwise stated. Catamarans do not take cars on board.Tickets for local catamarans
and international ferries can be purchased online. For local
catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance
(maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.
QA‑2, Liburnska obala 7, tel. (+385-23) 25 48 00/(+38523) 25 05 55, email@example.com, www.jadrolinija.
hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00.
QB‑2, Liburnska obala 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 09 96/(+38523) 25 10 01, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.jadrolinija.
hr. Open 06:00 - 22:15.
QR‑5, Gaženička cesta 28a, tel. (+385-23) 66 61 00/
(+385-23) 66 61 01, email@example.com, www.
jadrolinija.hr. Open 04:30 - 23:00. July - September 04
Open 04:30 - 24:00.
Catamaran Lines Zadar- Premuda - Silba- Olib.QB‑2,
Vrata Sv. Krševana, tel. (+385-23) 25 43 00/(+385-23)
25 44 00, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.miatours.hr. Open
08:00 - 15:00, Fri 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed
ARRIVING BY BUS
The bus station is on the crossroads northeast of the Old
Town heading towards Split, Rijeka and Zagreb. Because
the bus services are so much used, the bus station is a real
hub and has everything you need. Left luggage (garderoba) is in the ticket hall and works from 06:00 to 22:00 and
costs 3kn per hour. Toilets: located on the right as you face
the building from the platforms. Public phones are on the
platforms and in front of the building. Getting to town:
On the road in front of the bus station are bus stops for the
local lines which take you to the Old Town, Borik, Diklo and
the suburbs. A 10kn ticket bought inside the bus gets you
a one way trip; a 16kn ticket bought at the ticket office
(Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun) buys you
ZADAR COACH STATION
Coach travel is the cheapest and quickest option for those
looking to explore the region on a shoestring. A huge
number of Croatian destinations are served, as well as a
growing number of foreign destinations in all points of
the compass. The general ticket office is open 05:40 22:00.QO‑2, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. (+385-) 060 30 53
05, email@example.com, www.liburnija-zadar.hr.
ARRIVING BY CAR
The A1 motorway between Zagreb and Dalmatia is a complete, navigable whole with no interruptions. Zadar is the
first port of call, and the motorway continues past all the
major resorts on the way to Split and beyond. Journey time
between Zagreb and Zadar is about 2.5 hours depending
on when you travel. Since most holidaymakers travel at
weekends, there can be congestion on borders, at motorway toll booths, intersections, ferry terminals and around
coastal resorts on Fridays and Sundays. If you can’t avoid
travelling at weekends, you may find that the roads clear
up in the evening. Tolls are payable on Croatian motorways
- most currencies are accepted.
ARRIVING BY PLANE
Zadar’s airport (zračna luka) is in Zemunik Donji, 9km
southeast of the city. Changing money: OTP banka in the
passenger terminal operates an exchange service and an
ATM. Calling home: Purchase a phone card at a newsstand
and use one of the public pay phones.
Getting to town: Liburnija runs buses between the terminal, the city bus station and the quayside near the ferryport on the Old Town peninsula. Bus lines are organised
to connect with the flight timetable, and one-way tickets
ZADAR AIRPORT (ZRAČNA LUKA ZADAR)
Croatia Airlines has domestic services to Pula and Zagreb
and major European destinations. Charter flights during
summer. Croatia Airlines desk is Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat,
Sun according to flight schedule and also 90mins before
Croatia Airlines and Lufthansa departures.QZemunik
Donji, tel. (+385-23) 20 58 00, firstname.lastname@example.org,
ARRIVING BY TRAIN
The train station is right next to the bus station. Somehow,
transport planners failed to integrate Zadar with mainline
routes. This means that journeys between Zadar and Zagreb or Split are possible but involve changing trains and
take considerably longer than travel by bus. The train station doesn’t have a lot of facilities, but since you are next
door to the bus station, you can make use of all the services
available there. The ticket office is open 07:10 - 14:40.
Closed Sat, Sun. Outside those times tickets can be bought
on board the trains.Getting to town: On the road in front
of the bus station are bus stops for the local lines which
take you to the Old Town, Borik, Diklo and the suburbs. A
10kn ticket bought inside the bus gets you a one way trip.
Summer 2016 5
Arrival & Getting Around
Arrival & Getting Around
EUROBIKE - BIANCHI
QC‑1, Obala kneza Branimira 2a, tel. (+385-23) 24 12 43.
Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
QD‑3, Trg Petra Zoranića 3, tel. (+385-23) 31 37 47/
(+385-) 098 65 47 02, email@example.com, www.
mondenatravel.hr. Open 08:30 - 12:30, 17:30 - 20:30, Sat
08:30 - 13:30, Sun by prior arrangement. A
QD‑3, Špire Brusine 12, tel. (+385-) 091 733 16 10/(+385-)
098 27 21 00, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.zzuum.com. Open
07:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
Zadar Tourist Board Archives
CENTRAL TRAIN STATION (ŽELJEZNIČKI
QO‑1, Ante Starčevića 4, tel. (+385-23) 21 25 55/Na‑
tional info line: 060 33 34 44, www.hzpp.hr.
Although the infrastructure for cycling is almost non-existent,
it is of course possible to rent-a-bike to at least see the city
landmarks and monuments, or beach hop from one to another of course. There are a few bike stores around town that
charge around 100kn per day and if you choose to rent for a
few days in a row, the price is then discounted. Option two
is the Nextbike system where you can rent and return a bike
at any one of four city locations. The initial amount you pay is
79kn and that amount is used as credit for bicycle rental. Each
day users have a 30-minute free ride available and if you surpass those 30 minutes; then there is an additional 8kn hourly
QM‑5, Ulica II zasjedanja ZAVNOH-a 1a, tel. (+385-23)
31 10 10/(+385-) 095 300 40 00, email@example.com,
www.calimero-sport.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Rent a scooter too. Also at Zadar airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84
02, (+385-) 091 898 91 12, Open 08:00 - 21:00.QD‑2, Narod‑
nog lista 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 25 79/(+385-) 091 570 22 31,
firstname.lastname@example.org, www.avia-rentacar.hr. Open 08:00
- 20:30. A
DOLLAR & THRIFTY
QZadar Airport, tel. (+385-23) 31 57 33/(+385-) 098 42
48 91, email@example.com, www.subrosa.hr. Open 08:00 20:00. A
QZadar Airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84 00/(+385-) 091 415
55 42, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.hertz.hr. Open 08:00 21:00. A
Also at Zadar Airport, tel. 34 84 32. Open 07:00 - 23:00.QF‑4,
Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 24 22 24/(+385-) 098
31 37 47, email@example.com, www.lulic.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00.
QO‑1, Zagrebačka 90, tel. (+385-) 091 222 26 92, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.modulauto.hr. Open 08:00 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE
QD‑3, Mihe Klaića 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 61 66, info@
zadar.travel, www.zadar.travel. Open 08:00 - 21:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 08:00
-24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 -24:00.
QZadar Airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84 15/(+385-) 099 634 93
27, email@example.com, www.oryx-rent.hr. Open
08:00 - 21:00. A
ZADAR TOURIST BOARD
QD‑3, Ilije Smiljanića 5, tel. (+385-23) 21 22 22, fax (+38523) 21 17 81, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.zadar.travel. Open
08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
RENT A - H ZADAR
Rent a scooter.QL‑5, Bana Josipa Jelačića 1, tel. (+385-23)
23 66 00/(+385-) 098 41 43 22, email@example.com. Open
08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A
ZADAR COUNTY TOURIST BOARD
QA‑3, Sv.Leopolda Mandića 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 53
16, fax (+385-23) 31 51 07, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.
zadar.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
QG‑2, Matije Gupca 2a, tel. (+385-23) 33 72 94, info@
terratravel.hr, www.terratravel.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00.
6 Zadar In Your Pocket
Here for a short time and don’t want to carry luggage around,
visit Bagul where you can safely leave your belongings. Prices
range from 8 kn per hour depending on the size of your luggage bag and time of drop off. Up to 50 kn for the entire
day!QB‑2, Poljana Pape Aleksandra III 7, tel. (+385-23) 23
04 82/(+385-) 091 956 48 04. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sun
10:00 - 13:00, 15:30 - 21:00.
Parking is limited by space in the old city, and by the fact that
within the walls most of it is pedestrianised. There are a few car
parks inside, otherwise there are parking spaces alongside the
city walls on the way to the ferry terminal. There is a somewhat
larger car park on the mainland by the footbridge. See the map
at the back of the guide. Disabled parking spaces are available
in all car parks. Parking in Zadar every day from Jul 1 to Aug 31,
08:00 - 22:00 is charged at the following rates: in Zone 1 - 12
kn/h; Zone 2 - 10 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h.
In May, June and September, 08:00 - 22:00 every day except
Sunday at the following rates: Zone 1 - 6 kn/h; Zone 2 - 4 kn/h;
Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h.
TEXT MESSAGE PARKING
Croatia is proud to be the first country where you can pay
for parking by text message! Look for the signs in parking
areas - they should have a blue or white field. Simply send
the registration number of your car as a text message (no
spaces, no special characters) to 70 8231 ( zone 1), 70 8232 (
zone 2), 70 8233 (zone 3), 70 8234 (zone 4), 70 8236 (Petrčane
zone). Your payment is confirmed when you get a message
back from them.
City bus services are run by Liburnija, and connect the Old
Town with the main coach and train stations and all surrounding suburbs and beach areas. There is a ticket office outside the
train and coach stations, Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.
There you can buy a ticket valid for two journeys for 16kn.
Alternatively, buy tickets inside the bus (10kn for one trip).
QO‑4, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. (+385-) 060 30 53 05,
There are a multitude of taxi companies waiting to transport your person, for which an equally varied array of prices
apply. Ranging from 20kn to 40kn for a 5km trip, your safest
bet is to ask the cost of the journey before entering the taxi.
Be aware that a night supplement of 20% applies, and a 60
kn/hr waiting rate is standard. Please make sure the meter
is turned on when you enter, for your and the driver’s sake.
Summer 2016 7
There are no longer custom limits between EU member states
or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend
you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.
When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them. Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no
mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for
drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is
50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h on secondary
roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they say, leave sooner,
drive slower, live longer.
Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take
shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still
a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have
parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room
adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable
access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying
that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the
streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination
in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour
to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.
Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café
culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does
mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments
give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not,
yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare
seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re prepared to
The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United
States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.
There are plenty of exchange offices around Zadar, as well
as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day.
Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so
be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you’re
planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should
definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think
you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on
plastic could be a problem.
Join the conversation with IYP
Croatian visa policy is fully compliant with the European
Union visa policy. What does that mean? All citizens of
states that need visas to enter other EU member states will
need a visa to enter Croatia also.
Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia. In
addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit
other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able
to enter Croatia.
Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.
WHEN THINGS GO WRONG
New Year’s Day
International Workers’ Day
Anti-Fascist Resistance Day
August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day
Feast of the Assumption
All Saints’ Day
Saint Stephen’s Day
Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zadar significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should
keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of
an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide
Emergency Number (+385) 112 which then transfers
you to police, ER or the fire department.
Depending on the city district, in case you were involved
in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the
nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy
or consulate. The main building for ER is located in General Hospital in Bože Peričića 5 (L-4) where everything
necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK
road help 24/7 (+385) 19 87, and as for accidents on
the sea call (+385) 195.
8 Zadar In Your Pocket
Croatia’s Secret Islands
Croatia’s Secret Islands
Photo by Darko Veršić
Despite the popularity of Croatia’s coast with tourists there
are still plenty of places which have remained sheltered
from the tides of tourists. Here is a selection of island hideaways where you can find your own personal paradise.
Tiny Susak makes up for it slack of size with personality. The
local dialect is a curious mix of archaic Croatian blended
with vocabulary from Italian, French and German. Not even
visitors from other parts of Croatia can decipher it.
In 1912 an Austrian doctor deemed Susak ideal for convalescing children. A hotel was designed by a Viennese
architect and built in the Bok bay, but with the First
World War tourism halted and never really picked up
again. Which means that the island remains utterly unspoilt.
Susak is unusual among Croatian islands in being covered with sand which is held firmly in place by reeds
planted by farmers to prevent erosion. There are no
roads, only sandy paths – you can pretty much go barefoot! The island is surprisingly fertile and was once well
known for its wine, an industry which is slowly being
revived. With no cars and those shallow sandy bays it’s
a paradise for families with small children. There are no
hotels, but you can rent a room or private apartment.
Come summer you’ll find yourself joined by a host of
Americans, returning emigrants and their offspring.
Pensioners returning to live out their days on the island
are lending a curious Transatlantic touch to the architecture. Other visitors include women who come to bury
themselves in the sand at Bok and Spiaza bays, reputed
to restore fertility.
Susak island culture includes possibly the only folk costume to feature a colourful mini ra-ra skirt. Definitely
one of the more intriguing Croatian islands!
10 Zadar In Your Pocket
Just opposite the port of Split, Šolta is super easy to get
to, but for some unfathomable reason it has been almost
completely overlooked by tourists. All the better for people looking for an authentic Dalmatian refuge from the
passage of time. Legend has it that Illyrian Queen Teuta
built her palace on the hillside at Senjska cove on the
south side of the island. Roman Emperor Diocletian of
Split chose Nečujam to build fish farms. More recently,
oligarchs and millionaires have been seeking refuge in a
16th century waterside castle at Maslinica that has been
transformed into a breathtakingly beautiful hotel, the
Martinis Marchi, with its own beautiful little marina. Wine
lovers should try Šolta’s local variety Dobričić, thought to
be a forebear of Zinfandel and rated highly by experts.
Don’t neglect to visit the villages in the interior - the narrow stone streets basking in the sun are full of atmosphere. In Grohote you’ll find a gallery with a permanent
exhibition of work by famous artists that were born in
The ferry’s first port of call is a popular spot for day trippers from Dubrovnik and as such is rather busier than its
neighbours. Two hamlets, Gornje Čelo and Donje Čelo
each have sandy beaches. The island is very green, with
abundant olives, oranges and figs. Lazing on the beaches
in Porat and Saplun in the evening you have a free ticket
to open air concerts in Dubrovnik just over the water!
THE ELAFITI ISLANDS
With no cars and just one settlement, Silba is enjoyed by
escapists whoneed a little culture along with their days of
relaxation. Silba features six lovely churches and chapels, and
romantic villas built by wealthy sea captains and ship owners. Since the island was vulnerable to pirate attacks you’ll
find a 16th century castle, while a hexagonal watchtower,
the Toreta, a slender edifice with a spiral staircase tracing
round the outside, testifies to the enduring love of a roving
sailor for his love back home.
Since the hedonistic 1970s Silba has had a loyal base of visitors from Croatia’s alternative cultural scene, so you’ll happen
across cute boutiques and low-key performances. There’s a
gallery of sculpture by Marija Ujević-Galetović, a contemporary artist who does fantastic things with the human form.
Silba’s pristine beaches recall the island’s silvery name with
shimmering shingle beaches and shallow coves ideal for
children. The waters are an unusually vivid turquoise colour
set off by the dark green vegetation.
The Elafiti islands are a short boat trip away from Dubrovnik, meaning you can easily enjoy the delights of
island life and hop over to the city when you fancy. Each
island is a little treasure. Wealthy Dubrovnik families of
times past had their summer homes here, lending the
islands echoes of the Renaissance.
For a tiny island Lopud has a wealth of churches, monasteries and villas. A lovely spot to linger is Mayneri park
right on the waterfront, somewhat unkempt but boasting
fine views, planting and statuary. Nearby you’ll find the
Thyssen-Bornemisza art pavilion where the installation
Your Black Horizon by Olafur Eliasson and David Adjaye
is housed. Architecture buffs might like to explore (with
caution) the disused modernist Grand Hotel. Lopud has
one of the best sandy beaches in Croatia at Sunj bay.
A handful of lovely stone villas have been turned into
small hotels with excellent accommodation and good
The most distant of the three populated Elafiti Islands,
you can wander Šipan’s shoreline and hardly meet a
soul. Šipan boasts 36 churches and chapels and 42 his-
Prvić is perfectly placed for exploring Šibenik, the Kornati National Park, neighbouring islands such as Zlarin and Kaprije
and the Krka and Plitvice National Parks inland.
Prvić is small and perfectly formed, with two settlements
and no cars. Prvić Luka’s pretty waterfront features a striking onion-domed church. There are lovely bathing spots
with views over the surrounding islands and the mountains
on the coast. Among the children who have been lucky to
spend their summers here was Faust Vrančić, known as the
Croatian Leonardo da Vinci. A linguist, historian, mathematician and physicist, he was the inventor of the parachute and
creator of the first Croatian dictionary. You can see models of
his inventions in the local museum.
Summer 2016 11
Croatia’s Secret Islands
toric summer villas. With two settlements this island has a bus
service! Suđurađ is where the ferry arrives, while Šipanska
Luka (Port of Šipan), in a pleasing twist, has no ferry service.
Apart from stumbling over fascinating old buildings, the
pleasures of an island walk include taking in olive and fig, carob and vine… The island has a scattering of pleasant smaller
hotels and decent restaurants.
GIFTS FOR HUNGRY
One of the pleasures of Croatia is natural, tasty food. So what
better gift for those back home than something to nibble?
A tasty twist on Italian grissini, these ones from the island
of Silba are enriched with pumpkin, sunflower and sesame
seeds, with chilli, caraway, truffle or anchovy. Perfect with a
nice cold beer or cocktail. Pick them up in Zadar from Ivan
Motušić, tel. (+385-) 99 771 69 98.
OLIVE LEAF TEA
Olive leaf tea is believed to be rich in antioxidants, thus supporting a healthy heart and immune system. It’s a traditional
drink from the Croatian islands which you can pick up in Paška
sirana cheese shops around the country or on the island of Pag
in Vrtovi Lunjskih maslina, Lunj. Open Mon - Fri 08:00 - 15:00.
KRK ISLAND PRŠUT
To make great cured ham you need a brisk north wind laced
with plenty of salt and herbs, which is why generations of Krk
islanders have prepared their own pršut. This is a product that
varies depending on the environment and the recipe, so it’s
different wherever you go. Try Krk pršut at the Žužić butcher’s
shop, Zagrebačka bb, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 22 21 38 (Open Jun/
Sep 07:00 - 20:00, Jul-Aug 07:00 - 21:00) or at Kuća krčkog
pršuta at Bok od Brozića 40, Vrh, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 68 60 98
(Open Jun/Sep 12:00 - 22:00, Jul-Aug 12:00 - 23:00).
Real foodies these days choose from a selection of salts as
they cook. A new one to try is cvijet soli (fleur de sel) from
Nin’s Roman salt pans. Fleur de sel is made of soft, moist flakes
harvested gently from the water’s surface. Delicious sprinkled
on fine foods, the crystals are rich in minerals and created in
an ecologically pristine environment. Pick up a box in at the
Solane Nin museum shop, Ilirska cesta 7, Nin, tel. (+385-23)
26 40 21 (Open 07:00 - 20:00) or selected shops nationwide.
One of the best comfort foods from Croatian island cuisine is
goulash served with home-made pasta such as makaruni na
iglu, pasta wrapped around a skewer to produce an slender
tube. Pick up some in the Mahulja bakery, Gundulićeva 4, Novalja, Pag island (Open 06:00 - 12:00), tel. (+385-53) 66 36 57,
or during the summer at mobile bakeries in Novalja, Mandra
and Stara Novalja (Open 07:00 - 19:00).
12 Zadar In Your Pocket
DECK YOUR HOME WITH
WOOL SLIPPERS FROM CRES ISLAND
Natural felted wool slippers make a practical and tasteful
gift from Cres, where the bleating of sheep hangs in the
herb-scented air. Each pair of slippers crafted by the Ruta
Society is unique: muted or zanily colourful, the choice
is yours. Your purchase helps promote local crafts and
environmental protection. Contact Udruga Ruta, Zazid
4a, Cres, tel. (+385-) 098 313 029, email@example.com,
PAG, LEPOGLAVA AND HVAR LACE
The islands of Pag and Hvar and the inland town of Lepoglava north of Zagreb each have their own tradition of
lacemaking. Pag lace is made with needles alone. A
certain visual austerity and geometricism lends an unexpected modernity – a framed piece of lace makes an
authentic yet chic decoration. Lepoglava and Hvar lace is
made on bobbins, Hvar lace from thread derived from local agave plants. Pick up Pag lace at the Pag Lace Gallery,
Trg Petra Krešimira IV, Pag, tel. (+385-23) 60 08 30, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.pag.hr. Open 09:30 - 12:00 and by
request. June 20th - September 20th Open 09:30 - 12:00,
20:00 - 22:30.
A sustainable souvenir with a provenance is a rug made
using traditional island techniques from remnants of fabric from manufacturing folk costumes.
These rugs can be used to protect your table or can be
scattered on the floor. Contact the Lipa folk costume
workshop on Prvić island at Ulica IX – 3, Prvić Šepurine,
tel. (+385-) 098 964 65 84, email@example.com. Alternatively, if you’re in Šibenik visit the Croatian Island Products Shop at Medulićev trg, or the souvenir shop at the
STONE PESTLE AND MORTAR
Cool, white and reassuringly heavy in your hand, there’s a
timeless elegance to Brač stone. What better choice for a
piece to take home than a pestle and mortar? They look
good, and they’re handy for crushing herbs and grinding spices. You can find them in the Dražen Jakšić’s L&D
workshop at Put varoša 3, Supetar, Brač, tel. (+385-) 098
907 04 68, firstname.lastname@example.org, also in Split in the
basement of Diocletian’s palace or at a stall in the centre
of Korčula town.
A kunjska spara is a decorative circular cushion with a hole
in the middle. Intriguing, you might say. Indeed! They
were used to cushion the loads that women used to (and
still do) carry on their heads on their return home from
the fields. You can find them on Pašman island, contact
Marija Grdaš, Put studenca 27 Tkon, tel. (+385-23) 28 53
Archaeological Museum Archives
The Culture Trip
ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO THE SUMMER EVENTS IN ZADAR
AND SURROUNDINGS WHICH YOU MUSTN’T MISS... FROM
CLASSIC AND TRADITIONAL, TO URBAN AND ACTIVE
Culture & Events
Archaeological Museum Archives
BEAUTY IN ROMAN TIMES
Among the most fragile and fascinating exhibits in
Zadar’s Archaeological Museum are those connected
with cosmetics. How many of us realise that in ancient
civilisations people were already using cosmetics to
improve their appearance and make themselves smell
One of the earliest women famous for using cosmetics
was Egyptian Pharaoh Cleopatra, whose life coincided
with the early days of the Roman Empire. Most of us
know the legend of her bathing in asses’ milk to preserve the beauty of her skin. We also have a pretty good
idea of what she looked like, with her eyes defined
with black kohl and probably green or blue makeup. It
would be mistaken though to think of her as a kind of
proto Kim Kardashian as she was a mighty ruler witha
The Romans’ use of makeup was nothing new, but
drew on traditions from the civilizations of the east,
where the ingredients used to create makeup and perfume were abundant in nature and had been in use for
The Romans themselves had an ambivalent attitude to
cosmetics, which were used mainly by the very wealthy
or by prostitutes. Christians tended to believe that embellishing yourself was either going against God’s will
or a clear sign of being deceitful or adulterous. While
most male writers at the time were disapproving of excessive use of makeup, there are no records of women
having any problem with it. The only writer on record as
being cool with makeup was Ovid, generally a smashing bloke anyway.
However, women weren’t the only ones to face condemnation for using cosmetics. It wasn’t unusual for
men to sport flamboyant hairstyles, to whiten their
faces and to remove hair from their faces and bodies.
However, men had to tread a fine line between being
considered a bit sketchy on the personal hygiene front
and being overly effeminate and thus decadent and
14 Zadar In Your Pocket
Culture & Events
Nonetheless, it was socially acceptable to maintain the
health of your skin, so using cosmetics to improve the
skin’s condition was widespread, as was exercising to
improve one’s health and appearance. People could be
seen pounding elliptical cross trainers and reading OK!
magazine across the length and breadth of the Roman
The realities of using cosmetics were rather different to
modern times. For one thing, the ingredients tended
to be rather different. Most scarily, to achieve the
much-prized whiteness of skin, not easy with a Mediterranean complexion and climate, white lead was
used as a cosmetic ingredient. Little did people know
poisonous lead is absorbed through the skin, leading
slowly to sickness and death. A less risky but equally
scary-sounding alternative skin-whitener was crocodile
To lubricate the skin and preserve its youthful look, the
Romans reached for whiffy-sounding ingredients from
swan fat to gladiator sweat. Like us though, they applied lanolin to their faces to soften their skin as they
slept, only they lacked the technology to get rid of the
smell of sheep from that particular ingredient.
However, the Romans were very well aware of the art
of the perfumer, and to those who could afford them
trade routes made available all kinds of exotic, sweetsmelling ingredients. Rose petals, lavender, jasmine, lily
and frankincense were ingredients that were traded
across the empire, producing scented oils and balms
that people used to fragrance their skin, their hair and
even their walls and their doves in order to make pleasant their surroundings. Closer to home, the Illyrian iris,
growing on the coast of today’s Dalmatia, was prized
for its scent and used to make necklaces of sweetsmelling beads.
Equally beautiful and exotic were the boxes and vials
used to store cosmetics. They ranged from boxes made
of simple bone to decorative ivory caskets. The Romans
also knew glass is one of the best containers for cosmetics since it doesn’t react with its ingredients. In the
Archaeological Museum you can see containers and
vials unearthed in the local environs and once used to
store cosmetics. Other interesting finds include glass
wands used to apply kohl around the eyes, hair grips
from Zadar and Nin and amber rings depicting women
with the hairstyles popular at the time.
Looking at the collection, it’s easy to imagine the scene
of a wealthy Roman woman sitting in her dressing
room, entry to men strictly forbidden, surrounded by
slave women dipping into her wardrobe and the cupboard containing her cosmetics and jewellery boxes.
Attending to her bath, skincare, dress, makeup, hair
and perfume… making sure she looks just so. Beautiful, but natural enough to keep within the conventions
of her time.In the Museum shop you can also buy to
take home bottles and glass jewellery handcrafted on
the premises and inspired by the designs found at archaeological sites in the Zadar region.
16.06 THURSDAY - 18.06 SATURDAY
6TH ZADAR TANGO FESTIVAL
Love tango? Then get into the swing of this dance bonanza
as performance pairs strut their stuff at the 6th edition of this
event. Passersby are more than welcome to join in and even
learn from the best! Over three days of the festival you will
be able to enjoy a fever pitch concert by ‘Sexteto milonguero’ in Ancient Glass Museum on the opening night, participate in various dance workshops with professionals, partake
in milonga nights at the Q-bar, and the vehement milonga
open air show held at the Narodni trg.QB‑2 and C‑3, Q-bar,
Liburnska 6 and Narodni trg, www.tango-zadar.hr.
Vak’an’za Festival Archives - Photo by Iva Perinčić
LADO, the Croatian Folk Dance Ensemble, was founded in
1949 as a professional national institution responsible for
keeping the folk tradition alive. It has a repertoire of over 100
choreographed pieces, several hundred vocal and instrumental numbers, and over 1000 costumes representing the
folk tradition across Croatia. Lado really is a national treasure,
and if you should get the chance to see them, you won’t be
disappointed.QC‑3, Trg sv.Marije. Concert starts at 21:00.
25.08 THURSDAY - 03.09 SATURDAY
8TH MONOPLAY - FESTIVAL SOLA
This is the 8th Monoplay festival featuring contemporary
dances and solo performances by Croatian and foreign
dancers and choreographers. Along with the dance performances, workshops and lectures will be offered. Let your
body feel the music as you watch these modern and innovative dances.QD‑3, Zadar Puppet Theatre, Trg Branka
THE PRODIGY - JAZINE OPEN AIR
Hot on the heels and just into summer, one of Britain’s alltime top electro rave/punk acts roll into the outdoor Jazine
venue for a mega hot night of raw music and energy. The
band hit the world scene in the 90s and has been dubbed
as one of the pioneers of the big beat genre. In the words
of band member Keith Flint (vocals), ‘rising on stage is like
going into battle’!QM‑5, Car Park Jazine. Concert starts at
20:00. Tickets 220 - 250kn, www.eventim.hr.
Zadar Tango Festival Archives
22.07 FRIDAY - 23.07 SATURDAY
One of the world’s leading brands in hosting international
DJ headliners and festivals travels to the Mediterranean and
has chosen Zadar, Europe’s best destination in 2016, as their
next venture. For two days and nights revelers will experience the extra special production effects taking place at
Kolovare Beach which will host several world class DJs of
electronic music and genre.QN‑6, Kolovare Beach, www.
Summer 2016 15
Culture & Events
05.05 THURSDAY - 09.09 FRIDAY
GORDANA DRINKOVIĆ: THE POWER OF FRAGILITY 5.5 TO 9.9
Glass reflects, is transparent and fragile. Yet this material has
put Gordana Drinković into the limelight of product design
and artistic design in glass. In her 25 year career, she has developed and implemented more than 500 works of art and
everyday objects (sculptures, candlesticks, glasses, bowls,
vases…). Much of the work has been produced in the form of
exclusive designer series’ and are a part of private collections
worldwide. Now it’s time for her work to shine again!QD‑2,
The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora
1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33, www.mas-zadar.hr.
Culture & Events
and gone; but what has remained? For one, our medieval
cities and fortresses! Photographer Tomislav Rosandić presents these impressive archaeological monuments and sites
through this photo exhibit.QC‑3, Archeological Museum,
Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 13, www.amzd.hr.
13.06 MONDAY - 31.08 WEDNESDAY
REPTILES OF THE WORLD
The weather could be scorching hot but these cold blooded
reptiles will be soaking up the sun. The Narodni Trg is where
an abundant amount of lizards, crocodiles and primarily
snakes will be exhibited for all to see. If you’re brave enough,
you can handle snakes and get photos taken as well. King
cobras, rattlesnakes, vipers, a green mamba, pythons and
more will slither... QD‑3, City Lodge, Narodni trg, www.nmz.hr.
05.05 THURSDAY - 10.09 SATURDAY
PREHISTORIC GLASS FROM NOVO MESTO
Come and see the archaeological findings discovered in
Novo Mesto over the last 300 years. These date back to the
BC period and feature striking coloured glass and amber
bead necklaces. Due to the large number of diverse shapes,
sizes and colour combinations, glass beads from Novo Mesto differ from the findings of other European archaeological
sites. The development and complexity of the jewellery can
be seen over the periodic Ages. A definite treasure in terms
of European heritage!QD‑2, The Museum of Ancient
Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38
24.06 FRIDAY - 08.07 FRIDAY
FRIENDS OF THE SEA - THE BLUE HOUR
For the seventh year running this moving exhibition is
destined for 12 Croatian cities and is intended to attract
over one million visitors this summer. It’s a compilation of
60 large-format photographs taken during the ‘blue hour’
i.e. early evening after sunset or early in the morning, just
before dawn. Breath-taking scenes of the Adriatic are set
to inspire, admire, and unearth a desire of love and respect
for one of the most beautiful coastlines in the world. The
works have been selected by the expert team of the festival
‘Rovinj-Photodays’.QD-3, Poljana Šime Budinića, www.
18.05 WEDNESDAY - 18.06 SATURDAY
LONELY GIANTS – STONE TESTIMONY
From the earliest times Croatia has geographically always
been a meeting place of different cultures and traditions.
Romans, Venetians, Ottomans, and many others have come
JUNE - SEPTEMBER
MEDICAMINA FACIEI FEMINAE
Step into the footprints of a female living in Ancient Rome
for one day, follow her daily routine from morning till night
and witness the efforts gone into preserving beauty. This
exhibit looks at exactly that, ancient cosmetic products.
See combs, hairpins, mirrors, bottles for perfumes and ointments, eye shadows, creams, and ointments and oils to
prevent wrinkles and scars. Not to mention hairstyles and
clothing of course!QC‑3, Archaeological Museum, Trg
Opatice Čike 1, tel. (+38523) 25 06 13, www.amzd.hr.
A MASTER OF LIGHTNING
This year marks the 160th anniversary of the birth
of Nikola Tesla. Born July 10th, 1856 in the village of
Smiljan, Gospić, in what was then the Austrian Empire. His affinity for mathematics as well as an eidetic
memory led him to flourish in school. Although he
failed to graduate from university, Tesla eventually
moved to New York City in 1884 and was hired by
Thomas Edison, a relationship which could provide
tomes of anecdotes by itself. This summer, the first
ever Tesla Film Festival will be celebrating the life and
contributions of Nikola Tesla. The festival will feature
film and other works inspired by the inventor and will
be presented in cities around the globe. The Tesla Science Foundation will be present as well, awarding the
best in show films or other works made about Tesla.
The Festival will travel throughout the United States
and Europe.With a name now immortalised by his
contribution to the world, Nikola Tesla will certainly
be remembered as one of the greatest scientists the
human race has ever seen.
16 Zadar In Your Pocket
01.07 FRIDAY - 31.07 SUNDAY
MALGORZATA CHOMICZ: DEPLORATIO
Over the last three years Chomicz has been experimenting with 2D and 3D options, transforming drawings and
graphics into engravings and sculptures. Her body of work
is based on several themes including ‘Psalms’, ‘Jesus and
Angels’ which can be seen in her canvas, drawings, etchings
and sculptures.QB‑3, St Donatus’ Church, Poljana pape
Ivana Pavla II, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 13, www.amzd.hr.
30.07 SATURDAY - 16.08 TUESDAY
CROATIA FROM THE AIR
See a photo monograph which is a result of seven years of recording Croatia from the air by travel guru, writer and photographer Davor Rostuhar. National Geographic gave it the thumbs
up with photos of natural and cultural landmarks aplenty.
QA‑4, The Sea Organ, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV.
Zadar Summer Theatre Festival - Photo by Željko Karavida
JAZZ & SWING CONCERTS
ROCK & POP CONCERTS
BLACK COFFEE LATIN EXPRESSION
Lovers of Latino look out as this sort after jazz group take
a twist for the summer season thanks to the famous percussionist Andy Petko making a special joint appearance.
Their repertoire includes Latin standards of Brazilian music for the most, yet supplemented with a few Caribbean
numbers too. The beautiful Zadar singer Martina Thomas
will lead the evening. Also at 26.07. , 11.08. and 25.08.
QB‑3, Trg sv.Stošije. Concerts start at 21:00. J
Hard to pinpoint, easy to listen to! Elemental is a band
whose musical foundation reverts mostly to funky rap and
hip-hop but evidently cannot be reduced to any single
musical genre. In their colorful musical vision, Elemental is
known for dynamic stage performances, the specificity of
their sharp lyrics and interesting instrumental tunes which
together form the authentic sound.QD‑3, Ledana Lounge
Bar, Perivoj kraljice Jelene Medijevke, tel. (+385-) 095 396
39 96, www.ledana.hr. Concert starts at 23:00.
27.07 WEDNESDAY - 29.07 FRIDAY
JAZZ & BLUES FESTIVAL
The zesty sounds of these genres will for three days become a draw card for some of the world’s best jazz and
blues musicians. The opening night belongs to Fred Wesley and the New JBs, this legendary composer and trombonist is best known for his work with James Brown. The
second day is reserved for the Saskia Laroo Project, this
Dutch female trumpeter teams up with American pianist
and vocalist Warren Byrd for some funk, rap, and hip hop
jazz which is 100% organic.
The finale belongs to NO BS! Brass, an 11 piece group
who are set to bring the curtains down with their heartpounding energy and downright funky New Orleans
sound fused with modern funk, and a pinch of hip hop.
QD‑2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog
odbora 1. Concert starts at 21:30. Tickets available at the
box office (Široka ulica 8, Croatian National Theatre Zadar).
Open 11:00 -13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Sat 11:00 - 13:00. J
One of Zagreb’s all-time top pop funky bands are back on
the charts and performing live again. The band has been in
the industry for 20 years and has somewhat of a cult status
and their own following. With six studio albums and many
chart topping singles, it still seems that they always sound
best when they sing about love.QD‑3, Ledana Lounge Bar,
Perivoj kraljice Jelene Medijevke, tel. (+385-) 095 396 39
96, www.ledana.hr. Concert starts at 23:00.
Meet one of Croatia’s cemented pop/rock/acoustic acts with
a slightly melancholy feel. Pavel have been around since
2007 and have risen to fame with hits such as ‘Morska’ and
the duet ‘Ako si za, mogli bi jednom izaći’ with Maja Posavec.
The musicianship and harmony between the eight band artists on stage can be captured at the Arsenal venue.QB‑1, Ar‑
senal, Trg tri bunara 1, www.arsenalzadar.com. Concert
starts at 22:30. Tickets 50kn available at www.eventim.hr.
Summer 2016 17
Culture & Events
One of Croatia’s highly regarded pop-rock singers who has
produced chart topping hits since the 80s. Just like a good
wine, Massimo seems to get better with time. Many declare
him to be Croatia’s David Bowie with startling resemblances
in voice.QB‑3, Forum. Concert starts at 22:00.
One of Argentina’s greatest cultural exports is their music,
their tango, an inspiration to many lovers of Latino. Sexteto
Milonguero is a six-piece outfit that revives the tango music
from the 50s, the passion from the provinces around Buenos
Aires and beyond. Now they fuse Cuban, African and much
more to create worldly rhythms yet always staying true to
tango.QD‑2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Ze‑
maljskog odbora 1, www.kuzd.hr. Concert starts at 21:00.
17.06 FRIDAY - 18.06 SATURDAY
RISE UP FESTIVAL
Get up and rock with local bands and artists, such as Abop,
Mašinko, Groove Masters, Last Method, Chuby, Magul, DJ
Renick. On Friday, June 17th, skaters, rollerbladers and BMX
riders will show off their skills in Menza skate park.QE‑2, Old
Zadar Puppet Theatre (Jazine). Tickets available at the
Igrow Shop (Stomorica 2).
17.06 FRIDAY - 16.09 FRIDAY
Zadar returns to the past on Fridays, organising mini festivals,
or feštice, to bring the original spirit of Dalmatia to the week’s
big night out. In the Old Town, stalls spring up selling fresh,
simple, fishy food and bevanda - white wine and water, a
popular drink in hot weather. Dalmatian acapella groups
(klapa) brighten the atmosphere in the konobas (traditional
fishermen’s reataurants) and wander the streets adding to
the general warmth and gaiety.QŠiroka ulica, Kalelarga.
Events start at 21:00. J
29.06 WEDNESDAY - 04.08 THURSDAY
22ND ZADAR SUMMER THEATRE FESTIVAL
Its lights, camera, action in Zadar for 5 straight weeks and
there is something for everyone. From local to national theatre groups; casts, crews, actors and directors give it their
all on stage to present some enthralling performances. Fatal
love, lies, dishonesty, deception, curiosity and turbulence are
just some of the key elements that tell the tales of these plays.
Some of the highlights include ‘Red’ by John Logan, ‘Freud’s
Last Session’ by Mark St.Germain, the dance show ‘Archiving The Secret Diary’ by Zadar Dance Ensemble and the comedy
‘Can’t Pay? Won’t Pay!’ by Dario Fo. Our very own Matija Dedić,
who is a famous jazz pianis is set to open the festival. All in all,
theatre and performance is truly alive in this part of the globe.
QŠiroka ulica 8, tel. (+385-23) 31 45 52/(+385-23) 31 45 86,
18 Zadar In Your Pocket
www.hnk-zadar.hr. Open 11:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Sat
11:00 - 13:00. Sundays only at the concert venues. Tickets
available at the box office (Široka ulica 8). J
05.07 TUESDAY - 19.07 TUESDAY
DAYS OF THE SUN
Organised by the association Eko-Zadar, this fair will be
promoting healthy eating and traditional products, such
as souvenirs made using a potter’s wheel, homemade liqueurs, jams, spices and sweets. Health gurus, make sure
you don’t miss out on this spectacular event!QC‑3, Narod‑
ni trg, www.ekozadar.hr. J
Dubbed the ‘Bosnain Billie Holliday’, Amira sings traditional Bosnian folk music characterised by a slow tempo
mixture of Oriental, European and Sephardic elements
with rich harmony and melancholic melody. She reinvigorates songs dating hundreds of years with her unique and
expressive voice.QB‑1, Arsenal, Trg tri bunara 1, www.
arsenalzadar.com. Concert starts at 22:00. Tickets 90 110kn available at www.eventim.hr.
11.07 MONDAY - 03.08 WEDNESDAY
THE 56TH MUSICAL EVENINGS IN ST DONATUS
If you enjoy the ambience of music within a holy setting,
then this international music festival which combines music and beautiful old church architecture will delight you.
The event will host numerous local ensembles and solo
artists as well as renowned performers of chamber music
from abroad. It’s considered one of the most important
cultural events on the Zadar calendar. Concerts starts at
21:30.QB‑3, St Donatus’s Church, St. Anastasia’s Cathe‑
dral, Forum, tel. (+385-23) 31 45 52/(+385-23) 30 04
30, www.donat-festival.hr. Open 11:00 - 13:00, 17:00
- 21:00. Sat 11:00 - 13:00. Sundays only at the concert
venues. Tickets available at the box office (Široka ulica
8, Croatian National Theatre Zadar). J
21.07 THURSDAY - 23.07 SATURDAY
FULL MOON FESTIVAL
On the night of the full moon in high summer, the Riva
is lit by torch and candlelight. Boats are turned into floating markets selling the best tuna and sardines from the
famous fishermen of Kali (Ugljan); clams from Pašman and
mussels from Novigrad. Rustic, temporary konobas serve
everything from šokol from Nin to figs, cheese, rakija and
traditional cooking. If you don’t have the chance to travel
to Zadar’s outlying towns and islands to sample the folklore of the region, much of it will be showcased here. A
memorable event. Start at 18:00.QB/C‑4, Riva. J
Culture & Events
28.07 THURSDAY - 29.07 FRIDAY
A street art festival that includes dance and theatre performances, blues and jazz concerts, fine art, monodramas,
street acrobats, jugglers and magicians. This is where art
is taken to the people; it is held across a range of city locations and at various times from dusk till dawn.QB/C‑3,
Široka ulica (Kalelarga), Narodni trg, Forum. Festival
starts at 21:00. J
When in Zadar do as the Zadrani do! And the majority of
locals will all be here for this growing event. It’s the Millennium Jump where over 1500 people form a joint line and
on the word ‘go’ jump into the water forming a domino
effect. It looks spectacular from the air!
The line ranges from the Sea Organ through to the Faculty
of Humanities and Social Science.QB/C‑4, Obala Petra
Krešimira IV, Riva. Starts at 14:00. J
This Macedonian marvel of Roma music is undoubtedly
the Queen of the genre in this part of the world. Charismatic Esma first won the hearts of audiences as a 14 year
old back in 1957 and after spending 60 years on the music scene, and with over 1000 recorded songs under her
name, Esma will zip into Zadar to help reverberate the
sounds of gypsy, soul, funk and ethno music once again.
QB‑1, Arsenal, Trg tri bunara 1, www.arsenalzadar.com.
Concert starts at 22:00. Tickets 100 - 210kn available at
FESTIVAL OF SAND
The idyllic town of Nin is known for its soft beautiful sandy
beaches which makes it home to this rather unique event.
Two particular beaches (Kraljičina and Ždrijac) are ready for
action and art in combo. Sculptures of sand will be made
by mentors and tourists of all ages alike, so get ready to
shovel, carve, mix and mould in putting together your very
own sandy creations.QŽdrijac and Kraljičina Beach, Nin,
20.08 SATURDAY - 26.08 FRIDAY
AVVANTURA FILMFORUM FESTIVAL ZADAR
A platform for European co-productions and professional
filmmakers by promoting Zadar, Dalamtia and Croatia in
while as a film and production destination. Tis the mecca for roundtables, seminars, workshops, conferences,
film awards and screenings, retrospectives and a whole
lot more.QB‑3, Forum, tel. (+385) 91 260 74 66, pr@
filmforumzadar.com, www.filmforumzadar.com. J
20 Zadar In Your Pocket
Culture & Events
This new wave of modified basketball has become a world
hit and as Croatia is a basketball mad country, 16 Croatian
cities will be hosting the pre national competitions with the
best teams playing off in the city of Rijeka, July 30. The national champions will represent Croatia at the FIBA World Tour
Masters in Debrecen, Hungary. Tournaments will be played in
4 categories (U13, U15, U18, seniors) with the best team winning valuable prizes. Entries are free and can be completed
on the official website www.basket-tour.com. This is dynamic
basketball to say the least, don’t miss the three point comp,
dunking contest, and other attractive side events.QN‑5, City
Galleria, Murvička 1, www.basket-tour.com. J
18.07 MONDAY - 13.08 SATURDAY
VAK’’AN’’ZA 30,1% - SPORT & MUSIC FIESTIVAL
(WATER POLO AMATEUR CUP OF ‘ANTI-WATER
POLO PLAYERS AND NON-SWIMMERS’)
Welcome to this Water-Polo Amateur Cup which brings this
historical Olympic Sport to the people, this much sought
after tournament is open to everyone and anyone; so be
brave, form a team and register. Entertainment wise, the
Zadar waterfront will host various bands including an Amy
Winehouse Tribute band ‘Amy’s House’ and a Queen Tribute band, amongst other artists.QB‑4, Riva, Arsenal, info@
vakanza-zd.hr, www.vakanza-zd.com. J
THE 44TH TRADITIONAL SWIMMING MARATHON PREKO-ZADAR
Put on those swimsuits and find your way to the Preko
Riviera (Ugljan Island), you can catch the ships which leave
for Preko at 07:35 (from the Old Town) as the event starts at
09:00. By 10:00 the first swimmers are expected to arrive at
the Kolovare pools. Fun and fitness for all.QKolovare bb, tel.
(+385-23) 31 23 20, email@example.com, www.pkzadar.hr.
JADRAN ROWING DUEL
Row, row, row your boat gently down the Jazine! Indeed,
see this 8 man rowing regatta with local and international
crews battling the conditions for the prized trophy. Starts
at 16:00 and its 500 meters in distance.QE‑2, Jazine Bay,
27.08 SATURDAY - 02.09 FRIDAY
WORLD CHAMPIOSHIP TOPCAT K1 + ITC K2+K3
Fans of sailing can head to Biograd na Moru for this world
class international event broken into categories. It involves
sailing catamarans of various sizes with twin hulls; these are
both fast and popular. The Topcat is a one-design sailing
catamaran boat which is divided into several boat sizes. The
Yacht Club Biograd has gained a name for itself by hosting
large yacht races with up to 800 participants and much
can be expected here also.QBiograd na Moru, www.ycbiograd.com.
Papaya Archives - Photo by Goran Perešin - GOXMAG
Hideout Festival Archives
Papaya Archives - Photo by Goran Perešin - GOXMAG
26.06 SUNDAY - 29.06 WEDNESDAY
The 6th edition of this electronic summer party is set
to deliver over 100 headline acts and underground
DJs that will perform across several open-air stages.
The festival is located in Novalja and by the seaside
with themed boat parties adding another dimension to revelers. A mixture of everything from house
and techno to bass and grime will alarm the decibels.
This year’s line-up includes Jamie XX, Skepta, Andy C,
Skream, Seth Troxler, Jamie Jones, MK, Joris Voorn and
multitudes more.QZrće Beach, Novalja, Pag Island,
01.07 FRIDAY - 03.07 SUNDAY
UES FESTIVAL 2016
United Electronic Sound (UES) set the platform for
presenting the best local and regional artists as well as
world musicians and trends; the festival is set at Zrće
Beach, Croatia’s version of Ibiza, and is considered instagram heaven. Croatian, regional and European artists will praise the decks and share their musical traits
in UK, house, deep, garage and techno sounds. Boat
parties will take the festival offshore for those wanting a different party experience. Hear the music of
Solardo, Emery Warman, Hott Like Detroit, Ana Cole,
Antonio Zuza, Brun Dux, Chester, Dan Hayes, Jake
Whitehouse, James Carter…QZrće Beach, Pag Island,
Papaya Archives - Photo by Goran Perešin - GOXMAG
12.07 TUESDAY - 14.07 THURSDAY
FRESH ISLAND FESTIVAL
Greetings and welcome to one of Europe’s leading HipHop and Urban music festivals which is set on the island
of Pag. Mid July sees three mega clubs on Zrće beach
transform with DJ’s, MC’s, boat and pool parties representing the absolute best in Hip-Hop, R&B and Grime.
Hear the likes of DJ Trauma, Applebum, Cheese on
Bread, DJ Cut Supreme, Demir Cesar & Kidcut, DJ Phox,
added, Melody Kane and more.QZrće Beach, Pag Is‑
BARRAKUD 5TH ANNIVERSARY
Never resting on their laurels, organisers have a special
reason to go the extra mile this year with the 5th anniversary of this festival. Their classic motto of ‘Are you all
ready to rave the world again, continues? DJ Paul Kalkbrenner has given his heart and soul to the event and
will headline the main stage.QZrće Beach, Pag Island,
21.08 SUNDAY - 25.08 THURSDAY
The Aquarius, Kalypso and Papaya Nightclubs open
their doors to an international audience each year for
the Sonus Festival. For five days and five nights party
goers can hear the best in the electronic underground
scene across the Zrće Beach. Featured artists include
Marco Carola, Jamie Jones, JamAlexandra, Apollonia,
Archie Hamilton, Azimute,Bas Ibellini, Bella Sarris, Binh,
Bunte Bummler, Cabanne, Carlo Lio, Cassy, Chris Liebing,
and many more to come.QZrće Beach, Pag Island,
Summer 2016 21
Culture & Events
HOW ARE GLASS
Zadar’s Museum of Glass, apart from a permanent
exhibition, has workshops creating the Museum’s
souvenirs: replicas of Roman bottles and jars, glasses
and urns, glass beads, plates, jewellery and miniatures.
Every day between 09:00 and 14:00 visitors can watch
the glassmakers at work, witnessing the process of
creating these products using three techniques: glass
blowing, working jewellery using a blowtorch and creating miniatures by blowing in borosilicate glass tubes.
The hand blowing technique is mainly used to create
glass copies of Roman artefacts by free glassblowing
or blowing into a mould. With the aid of long glass
tubes and pipes, the glassblowers scoop up gobs of
molten recycled crystal from the furnaces (at temperatures of 1300 Celsius) and blow into the tube, skillfully
twisting the tube to shape the end product.The products are then put in the cooler at 500 degrees Celsius to
allow them to gradually cool to room temperature so
they don’t break. You can witness this process through
a think glass panel at the visitor’s gallery on the second
floor of the Museum. The workshop is run by Marko
Jewellery is made from little glass rods of various
colours which are melted using a torch, also reaching temperatures of more than 1000 degrees Celsius.
As the stick softens, the melted glass is formed into a
bead or other shape around a metal rod. Glass beads
for necklaces and earrings are mainly based on ancient
Greek and Roman designs, while rings are copies of
designs from the Classical era. The jewellery workshop
is on the ground floor of the Museum and is led by
Also on the ground floor of the Museum is a workshop
where miniatures are formed by blowing borosilicate
glass tubes of various colours on a torch. This workshop
is led by Ivana Matković.
One further workshop is where Antonija Gospić uses
a fusion technique to create glass plates from single
or double layer glass. This workshop does not have
a viewing area. At 800 degrees, the melting point of
glass, the layers of glass combine. Pigment is added
and the plates are cooled in moulds of varying shapes.
The plates can be removed from the kilns the following day.
22 Zadar In Your Pocket
Culture & Events
BEAUTY IN GLASS
An interview with Gordana Drinković, artist and product designer in glass
IYP: Gordana, could you introduce yourself to our readers? What do you think they might like to know about
Gordana: I’m an artist working in the medium of glass, producing artworks and working in product design. Over the last
25 years I have created more than 500 artworks and products
which have gained a reputation in Croatia and worldwide for
their personality, originality and artistic conception.
ZIYP: Where does the process of creating your works
begin – with shapes you notice in nature or is the vision
from within? Please tell us about your creative process.
Gordana: What I create is what I think about, what I feel, the
way I live. I don’t have and don’t seek inspiration from outside
myself. I’m a part of the world in which I live and in that sense
I’m emotionally and socially engaged, but I create from a very
personal, lived, intuitive perspective. Through my works I express my thoughts and feelings. All of my works have names,
I experience them as creatures. They transmit my artistic vision. To make something new, something different, to create
something new with meaning seems like mission impossible
particularly when you’re working with traditional materials.
Everything already exists in a variety of forms. The form itself
doesn’t have any particular meaning. The artist seeks to create new meaning, and the only way to bring new meaning is
through ourselves, our creativity, the truth which is the path
to understanding ourselves. An artist’s work is hard as you’re
always at the beginning, struggling. (An area I’m particularly
interested in is transforming the utilitarian into non-utilitarian
art and vice versa. That concept is exactly what has made my
work famous worldwide. Art that nobody lives with is pretty
lonely). (If I were a man perhaps my work would have been
purely artistic, but my female nature motivates me to bring
materials and objects into closer contact with everyday life…
The Miljenice glasses are friends who console you; the light
of a candle brings you peace… You can feel the beauty of
the everyday through little things, through a little extra care,
beauty which we can create ourselves. Sometimes a simple
flower makes me happy. Then I experience the vase as an altar
on which I place my experienced happiness.)
ZIYP: Why is glass so important to you, where does the
special connection with glass as the material of your
artistic creation come from?
Gordana: I’m in love with glass. You can never fully explain
love for somebody or something. My love has its roots in my
childhood when, playing, I observed the world through my
mother’s crystal glasses as if through magic spectacles.
I became attracted to seeing reality displaced through the
transparency of glass and refracted light. Falling in love developed into being in love. Glass is a material of particular
beauty, full of contradictions, limitations… it is liquid made
solid, an illusion of lightness and weight, fragility and hardness, a material shaped by people’s breath and by light… I
Museum of Ancient Glass Archives
Museum of Ancient Glass Archives
Museum of Ancient Glass Archives
gave my exhibition in the Museum of Arts and Crafts in Zagreb in 2013 the name “Glass, my other body”. I can explain
that name in the following words: Glass is close to me. In it
and in its transparency I can and I want to express what I think
and what I feel. Through works in glass I communicate with
the world just as I communicate through my body, my words,
my behaviour and my life.
ZIYP: How long does it take you to create a collection?
What is the path from the idea to reality?
Gordana: The creative process is something I cannot interrupt. I create out of necessity, not for fun. I can’t predict how
long it will take me to seek and make real an idea. Most often
though it happens over a period of months, though some
collections have developed over years. I do my thinking and
work on paper at home. I can’t shape glass directly with my
hands, so I have to accept the intermediaries between myself
and the materials. The intermediaries are the workers and the
factory. My presence is necessary so the glassblower and the
workers understand what I want to make, so that I can sow
my spirit and energy into the glass. A drawing is not enough.
A synergy between all the actors in the process is required.
That means spending time on hot or cold factory factory
floors, in draughts, on night time or early morning shifts, the
weight of glass of which my back pain is a constant reminder… Apart from that, I love to work and be in the factory, by
the furnaces full of molten glass.
ZIYP: What can you tell us about the exhibition which
the people of Zadar and their guests will be able to see
Gordana: I decided to present in Zadar collections which
have achieved worldwide success such as the Manhattan,
Atlantis and Babylon city candlestick collections which won
Museum of Ancient Glass Archives
the HFN 2010 Award of Excellence at Tabletop New York
in 2010. The Queen of Sweden owns the Atlantis collection of candlesticks. I am also showing glasses which were
ordered as a wedding gift for Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie;
the Purple Rain collection which I designed in 1994 and
dedicated to Prince, and the Tango collection which the
famous artists Gilbert and George use as their champagne
glasses.Visitors will also be able to see the Clear Day and
Rainy Day sculptures, Light and Cinderella which were
part of the exhibition of Croatian sculpture in glass in the
Mimara Museum in Zagreb in 2013. There will also be a
small part of the Opa Art Made in Croatia collection which
is currently taking shape in my atelier almost on a daily basis. I snap, break, smash, cut and damage glass objects in
myriad ways and am creating using the fragments. Leading experts in contemporary art in glass selected works
from the Afrika Babalawo and Iyalawo collections for the
European Glass Context Curated exhibition in the Bornholm Art Museum in Denmark in September 2016. I’m
proud that through my work Croatia will be taking part in
that exhibition. I will have to recall the Afrika Babalawo and
Iyalawo works from the exhibition in Zadar, but I’ll replace
them with other works from the Afrika collection.
ZIYP: In Croatia can you study to be an artist working in
glass? Are there other artists like you working in glass
Gordana: Zagreb has a Design Studies course. Of course
there are artists working in glass in Croatia. Each has their own
personal approach to glass and to art.
ZIYP: Is it possible to buy your collections somewhere?
Gordana: Anyone interested in my work can contact me via
my website: www.gordana-drinkovic.com.
Summer 2016 23
Delightfully modern and refined with a classy offering of
inland and Dalmatian specialities and a great wine list, this
place really is in a class of its own in the Old Town. Inventive, top quality cuisine - we were delighted with the black
risotto.QB‑2, Liburnska obala 6, tel. (+385-23) 25 45 01,
firstname.lastname@example.org, www.restaurant-kornat.hr. Open
12:00 - 24:00. (75 - 190kn). PJA6GBXW
The “little place” is a pleasant bar and garden roštilj (grill),
lively and popular. Locals come to enjoy the food, atmosphere and listen to Croatian music.QC‑3, Jurja Dalmatinca
- Matejeva 3, tel. (+385-23) 30 18 31, info@malo-misto.
com, www.malo-misto.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (40 170kn). PAGBXW
Trattoria Canzona Archives
These restaurants usually combine a choice of Dalmatian
specialities and seafood with cuisine from inland Croatia,
which also forms part of the Dalmatian diet.
BISTRO GOURMET KALELARGA
Decorated with simple, but classy off-white walls and tables, this bistro offers great seasonal foods, such as asparagus dishes, a great variety of wines and delicious sweets. A
warning for all the carnivores - the meat dishes are to-diefor! Try out the veal cutlet or beefsteak with a side of grilled
vegetables or some savoury fried potatoes, polished off
with a glass of wine made by locals from the Zadar region.
For dessert, don’t miss out on tasting the fantastic chocolate pistachio pie. Stop by and you won’t be disappointed.
QC‑3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 23 30 00, info@
Open 07:00 - 23:00. (84 - 134kn). PiAGBXW
The name says it all! The emphasis here is ‘homemade’
and with quality products from the local Zadar region
on hand, the range of food is varied from several types of
bruschetta, to fish and meat carpaccio, as well as different types of pizza and pasta.QC‑4, Mihovila Pavlinovića
12, tel. (+385-23) 31 29 15, email@example.com, www.
bruschetta.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:30. (60 - 130kn). PJ
A great, shaded terrace by the side of the cheery yellow
courthouse, with a good selection of Dalmatian and Croatian classics as well as pizzas. Reasonable prices - a good
place for lunch to break up a day’s sightseeing. It’s a hard
life!!QC‑3, Blaža Jurjeva 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 34 45, info@
restorani-zadar.hr, dvaribara.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00.
(35 - 150kn). PABX
Located in the old town, the menu offers lots of pasta, grill,
seafood, and pizza which are well garnished. Vegetarians
are also well accommodated. We recommend the homemade gnocchi! Reasonably priced!QC‑3, Široka ulica 22,
tel. (+385-23) 77 89 81/(+385-) 091 462 94 14, convallis.
firstname.lastname@example.org, www.restaurant-groppo.com. Open
08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn). PiJA6BSW
24 Zadar In Your Pocket
This charming restaurant greets its guests with an alluring
and romantic atmosphere. It offers delicious contemporary
dishes, like ravioli safran and cold white fish with artichokes
or classical mediterranean meals, like fresh octopus salad.
Each dish is exquisitely arranged on a platter, that is not
only appealing to the eye, but tastes great. During this summer season, many dishes are served with figs, from slices
of prosciutto, to steak in a fig sauce, to desserts, like queen
lady fig cake. You’re in for a real treat!QD‑3, Stratico ulica
bb, tel. (+385-23) 22 40 10, email@example.com, www.
petbunara.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (75 - 160kn). PA
Are you up for an excellent meal on the grill? Then head to the
Varoš district in Zadar where it’s hard to find a free seat come
peak summer. Choose from rare to well done as Leo the owner
has a copyright to all his genuine grill delicacies. Meal sizes and
prices are proportional.QC‑3, Sv. Nediljice 2, tel. (+385-23) 21
20 81, firstname.lastname@example.org. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. (55 - 150kn). PJAGBXW
PAŠTA & SVAŠTA
This quaint bistro is beautifully decorated with a huge painting of the coast, along with flower pots adorning the walls.
As the name implies, they offer traditional Italian pasta
dishes, such as Fusilli and Fettucini, as well as bruschetta,
octopus salad and many more delicious options.QD‑3,
Poljana Šime Budinića 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 74 01, info@
pastasvasta.com, www.pastasvasta.com. Open 08:00 23:00. (35 - 120kn). PiJA6GBXW
Satisfy your desire for Italian cuisine with delicious pizza’s
made with mozzarella cheese, focaccia bread and other Italian
specialties. You can enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner on their
lovely terrace.QC‑3, Knezova Šubića Bribirskih 18, tel. (+38523) 25 05 14, email@example.com, www.restorani-zadar.
hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (75 - 120kn). PAGBXW
Konobas are the best places to experience typical Dalmatian
cuisine. They were once the places where fishermen hung
out and got someone else to cook their catch for them.
Bistro Pjat is a small restaurant tucked in among the tiny
streets of Zadar’s old town. The food is typically mediterranean, with fish, pasta and pizza on offer. Bistro Pjat was recently awarded the “Smiling Sun” for being the best restaurant/
tavern in the city. With daily specials and an enticing regular
menu, Bistro Pjat is not to be missed.QC‑3, Stomorica 10, tel.
(+385-23) 21 39 19. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
On Put Dikla, the road to Borik. It’s got a rather special menu
with loads of top quality steaks prepared au naturel on a
charcoal grill, or stuffed with things like scampi. Lamb, veal
and fish cooked ispod peke are on offer as well.QH‑4, Obala
kneza Trpimira 50, tel. (+385-23) 33 53 49. Open 10:00 24:00. (50 - 90kn). PALGBXSW
Right next to Trg pet bunara, this konoba happens to be the
oldest in the old city. Typical stone interior, they serve up the
usual fish and meats specializing in foods cooked under an iron
bell. Also a nice selection of Croatian and foreign wines. Live
music most weekends too.QD‑3, Trg Petra Zoranića bb, tel.
(+385-23) 21 32 36, firstname.lastname@example.org. Open 08:00 - 24:00,
Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn). PJA6GBXSW
Summer 2016 25
Named after the ruins of a little church, this is one of the
oldest konobas in Zadar which used to offer hearty and
healthy sardines to hungry patrons. Today it’s a beautiful
place to eat out:still traditional in style, the menu has been
expanded to include most classic seafood dishes. The New
York Times rightly gives Stomorica a big thumbs up for its
good portions, decent prices and singing locals. A Zadar
favourite for generations.QC‑3, Stomorica 12, tel. (+38523) 31 59 46, email@example.com. Open
10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 70kn). PTJNGBXSW
Photo by Višnja Arambašić
ZADAR - JADERA
A konoba is a small place where fishermen would tell
tales amongst a drop of wine after a good day’s catch. You
won’t find any fisherman here but the surroundings will
give you a pleasant sense of the sea, it’s small and intimate
and if you’re after a typical home made cuisine then this is
a gem.QC‑2, Brne Krnarutića 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 59,
firstname.lastname@example.org, www.restorani-zadar.hr. Open
10:00 - 23:00. (70 - 100kn). PJAGBXW
The spit roast rules in Croatia. Macho men who would
otherwise not be seen dead in a pinny are happy to spend
hours lovingly tending rotating piglets. While pork forms
the substance of the inland diet, once you get the coast it’s
much easier to find lamb, which Dalmatians rave about, because the combination of salt winds, sunshine and strong
herbs lends the meat a special flavour. Lamb from nearby
Pag Island is especially flavourful. Here are the best places
to eat lamb roast on the spit (janjetina na ražnju) in and
If you’re heading back inland or for the Paklenica National
Park by the old, non-highway route, look for the village
Zaton Obrovački, about half an hour’s drive from Zadar.
Here they make tasty lamb and pork roasted on spit as
well as fresh, homemade bread cooked under the iron bell
(ispod peke). If you drop in, you won’t regret it.QZaton
Obrovački, Posedarje, tel. (+385-23) 68 93 50/(+385-)
091 582 85 85. Open 07:00 - 22:00. LNB
Tipped by locals as one of the best places in town for lamb.
Take the main road to Split and you’ll see it across the road
from hypermarkets Merkur and Getro.QJadranska 99, tel.
(+385-23) 34 03 55, email@example.com. Open
09:30 - 23:00. (27 - 90kn). PALGBXW
Niko Restaurant Archives
A large, modern restaurant in a small three star hotel. Charcoal grilled specialities, including, yes, that holy of holies,
roast lamb on the spit, and other Dalmatian food. A wide
selection of Croatian wines. Deservedly popular.QO‑2,
Zagrebačka 5, tel. (+385-23) 31 87 00, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.tamaris-zadar.com.hr. Open 07:00
- 23:00. (50 - 150kn). PA6ULGBXW
One of the best places in the Old Town, not least for its romantic location with a wonderful terrace on the little Foša
harbour, this restaurant is well respected among locals for
great fish.QD‑4, Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2, tel. (+385-23)
31 44 21, email@example.com, www.fosa.hr. Open 12:00 - 01:00.
(95 - 650kn). PJAUGBXSW
26 Zadar In Your Pocket
Has a fantastic reputation for seafood and home made
cheesecake. A great terrace. On the coast road west of the
centre, near the Sphinx.QJ‑4, Obala kneza Trpimira 23,
tel. ( +385-23) 23 09 75, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.
lungo-mare.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn).
Popularly called ‘kod Erika’ by locals, this restaurant is located on the seaside by Marina Borik and offers a superb
choice of fresh fish. Savour some grilled sea bass and squid
or try out a tuna carpaccio salad. Rumoured to have the
best shrimp pasta in town, this is a gastronomic heaven for
fish lovers.QG‑5, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. (+385-23)
33 78 88, email@example.com, www.hotel-niko.hr.
Open 16:00 - 24:00. (90 - 170kn). PA6LGSW
A wonderful little tavern set on the waterfront that offers good-quality food with a variety of choice and ultra large portions! A little tip - the seafood platters are
highly praised. The terrace seats are snapped up quickly
so it’s best to book in advance for prime positioning.
QF‑3, Krešimirova obala 49, tel. (+385-23) 33 10 35,
firstname.lastname@example.org. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (60 350kn). PALGBSW
This eloquent family estate with a hotel, winery, and restaurant on the island of Pag is the perfect getaway for a
tranquil holiday. We kid you not, they pay attention to every detail. Elegant rooms, a succulent and exclusive menu
with many fresh island ingredients. The konoba (tavern)
has excellent cheese, prosciutto and sardines. Pricey but
worthy!QNovaljsko polje bb, Novalja, Pag, tel. (+38553) 66 35 00, email@example.com, www.boskinac.com.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. (80 - 190kn). PA6LGB
Pineta is a sprawling mediterranean restaurant located in
a fragrant pine forest a few kilometres outside of Zadar.
Last year the restaurant was redesigned to better accommodate increased demand and to raise the profile for
their savvy clientele. While still specializing in meat and
fish, Pineta has created family-friendly weekend menus at
affordable prices, and also help to organize and host all
manner of festivities. QKožinska cesta 122, Kožino, tel.
(+385-23) 28 32 99/(+385-) 098 35 79 12, info@pineta.
hr, www.pineta.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (75 - 140kn).
Summer 2016 27
Located in Punta Skala in central Dalmatia, Kraljevski vinogradi (the Royal Vineyards) gets its name from a royal deed
from the 11th century that bequeathed the vineyard to a
Benedictine monastery from Zadar. While the vineyards today are less than a decade old, the traditions and connections to history have remained. Royal Vineyards uniquely
specializes in premium grape varieties from Dalmatia —
Pošip, Plavac Mali and Crljenak.QPunta Skala bb, Petrčane,
tel. (+385-23) 64 41 93, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.
kraljevski-vinogradi.hr/en/. Open 13:00 - 24:00.
“Kaleta” means “alley” in Dalmatian dialect, and this 300
year old former prison has a warren of stone passages
that lead you to the seating areas. They have a 38 year old
Elektrolux fridge which still works, and reckon it’s the 2nd
oldest in existence! Great food - try their Pašticada - Dalmatian beef in a rich sauce served with home made gnocchi - order a day in advance.QTrg 10, Sukošan, tel. (+38523) 39 40 31/(+385-) 091 882 34 37, domagojpericic@
yahoo.com. Open 17:00 - 24:00. (70 - 200kn). PTA
Photo by Višnja Arambašić
A very popular place: authentic, with a friendly atmosphere and reasonable prices (reservations are therefore
recommended). Try the crni rižoto (risotto with squid ink).
QRudina 10, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23) 39 33 03, augustin.
email@example.com, www.kod-guste.com. Open 16:00 23:00. (65 - 250kn). PAGBW
toppings are a bit more generous than the thin smears of
tomato you get in some other Italian-influenced establishments around town. We ordered a Quattro Stagioni
and three out of its four seasons turned out to be pretty
tasty. And by the time we got onto the last quarter of the
pie we were full anyway. The grilled meat dishes are also
worth trying.QH‑3, Put Dikla 54, tel. (+385-23) 33 42 46,
com/. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 180kn). PTA6
A large, friendly and trendy place, beloved by locals for
superb pizza, pasta and salads. Šime is also famed for
great pancakes and ice cream. A terrace, plenty of parking
and an underground garage to keep your lil’ baby out of
the sun.QG‑2, Matije Gupca 15, Puntamika (Borik), tel.
(+385-23 ) 33 48 48, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.
restaurant-sime.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 100kn).
This golden oldie is set in the heart of town and maintains
a rustic appeal with the classic red and white chequered
tablecloths. Succulent juicy thin based pizzas with plenty
of Mediterranean influenced ingredients. Although busy,
it has its intimate appeal. Perfectly priced!QB‑3, Trg tri
bunara, tel. (+385-23) 25 03 90, email@example.com.
Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. (37 - 72kn). Pi
Good warm sandwiches (popular round here, try them!)
and the usual fast food stuff. With late opening hours,
it’s a good place to pick up a bite if you’re drinking in
Borik or on your way home after a night out in town.
Rich and healthy breakfast added to menu recently.
QG‑2, A.G.Matoša 6, Borik. Open 08:00 - 01:30. (8 60kn). GBXW
When the tummy’s rumbling and you are after a topnotch breakfast to get your day going, hop on down
to Croccante which is known for its fresh croissants
and scrumptious toast. Such places for brekky are few
and far between apart from the hotels that serve their
guests.QC‑3, Široka ulica 14. Open 07:00 - 24:00. (10
Difficult to find but do not let that deter you. This small
bakery type eatery is a snack haven and good for on
the go. We recommend the tasty quiche, focaccia
bread and yummy bread rolls.QC‑3, Madijevaca 2,
tel. (+385-23) 25 44 40. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (10 40kn). PN
We heartily recommend Pece as one of the best konobas
in the region, with a lovely view from a little hilltop. The
homely interior was hand crafted by the owner himself,
who also is your chef. He whips up aromatic dishes full of local flavour and with a personal touch: his seafood dishes are
true delicacies. To get to the delightful little coastal hamlet
of Vinjerac, take the Zagreb road and turn left just before
the Maslenica bridge. Book in advance.QPrilaz Drage 2,
Vinjerac, tel. (+385-23) 27 50 69/(+385-) 098 33 14 03,
firstname.lastname@example.org. Open 16:00 - 24:00. (75 120kn). PA6ULVGBXSW
Located in a pleasant tree-shaded garden on Put Dikla, the
road that leads from central Zadar to the Borik resort area,
this popular pizzeria is perfectly placed for a quick and
economical post-beach feed. Mamma Mia’s pizza
28 Zadar In Your Pocket
Summer 2016 29
Lest you get the wrong idea, Zadar’s interior is a fiercely
carnivorous land. On the light side, you might get a turkey
(tuka) roasted peka style, under an iron lid heaped with
embers. Local turkeys are small and athletic, very different
from the big white industrially-farmed birds. Roasted like
this with potatoes they’re succulent and delicious.
Then there’s lamb and kid goat. It’s odd that goat meat is little eaten in much of Europe since it’s almost indistinguishable from lamb except it’s less greasy (and certainly more
healthy). In the highland regions smoked kid goat is an
especial delicacy, usually stewed with vegetables in a dish
named kaštradina. Weddings, birthdays and Christmas are
unimaginable in these parts without a roast lamb or goat.
Both are also prepared lešo style on an everyday basis. Beef
and pork don’t figure much on the traditional menu.
Photo by Višnja Arambašić
The inhabitants of Zadar live in a fertile horn of plenty.
Not only do the locals have the obvious benefit of fresh
fish on their doorstep, the city is also backed by a broad
belt of land named Ravni kotari - “the flat counties”. Here a
combination of sun and rain, rich soil and a clean environment provides great conditions for growing tasty fruit and
vegetables. In Zagreb’s open-air markets many a stallholder
puts forth a sign proudly proclaiming “Produce of Zadar” to
attract buyers with an eye for good food.
Changes wrought over the last decades mean that food
production today is nothing near what it once was. In
places like Vrana, Žegar and Islam Grčki, acres and acres
where tomatoes, cabbages and watermelons once grew lie
uncultivated. A tale we heard about Islam Grčki tells how
the inhabitants in the 1980s, after spending the summer
in the markets of Rijeka and Krk selling their wares, would
bring home their cash and throw it on the big weighing
scales to see who had brought most home.
However, a trip to Zadar’s market is still a mouth-watering
experience. The fish market is a delight, built right into the
city ramparts at the spot where the fishing trawlers land
with their catch. As well as lush lettuces and crisp chard,
you’ll find citrus fruits and kiwis from the islands, fresh and
dried figs, home-made olive oil and cut flowers straight
from the garden.
Apart from the riches of the fertile plains and seas, Zadar’s
gastronomic identity is shaped by the mountains you see
to the north. From there comes the tradition of rearing
sheep and goats. Both the meat and the milk are the basis
of some of the Zadar region’s most interesting specialities.
Let’s get a little bit specific. What should you look out for
if you’d like to try the authentic food of the Zadar region?
30 Zadar In Your Pocket
The obvious place to start. In Zadar’s restaurant’s you can’t
miss fish grilled over charcoal or cooked in a tomatoey
brudet sauce. Then there’s risottos, of which crni rižot with
black squid ink may qualify as the most interesting. And
seafood prepared na buzaru with white wine, garlic and
parsley. Simply delicious.
Look out for the most inexpensive fish; sardines, anchovies
and other small fish, deep fried or preserved in salt or oil
and vinegar. And Zadar, which has centuries of close contact with Italy, is no bad place for a simple meal of pizza
What do people eat at home? Fried fish or squid on Fridays,
definitely. On special occasions, salt cod cooked a million
different ways, such as na bijelo - with garlic, parsley, white
wine and potatoes. This might be followed by pašticada beef studded with carrots, garlic and smoked bacon and
stewed with wine and prunes.
On Sundays, meat cooked na lešo in a soup with vegetables, an all-in-one dish that just needs a green salad
to round it off. On workdays, pašta fažol - bean stew with
pasta, is a popular filler.
Lowlands, highlands and islands
In springtime the land from the water’s edge to the foot
of the mountains is crawling with folks hunting for asparagus. This wild asparagus, pleasantly bitter in taste, is much
prized lightly sautéed with scrambled eggs as a fritaja.
A speciality from this region is vara - chickpeas cooked
in water with kidney beans, a local bean called jari grah
and sweetcorn, very simply, served just with olive oil. It’s
the perfect remedy when you’ve overdone things, purging
your blood of cholesterol and other naughties.
Island lamb is particularly prized, notably that from Kornati
and Pag where the animals graze on wild herbs laced with
salt from the wind. Pag is the centre of Croatia’s cheese industry; a good mature Pag cheese is not dissimilar to Parmesan. At the other end of the cheesy spectrum, a product
called skuta is only edible in the first few days of its life at
the beginning of the cheese-making process. It’s a light curd
cheese, sweetish in flavour, perfect for spreading on bread
or for desserts, all the more so as it’s low in fat. You’ll find it
on Pag island and also made by families in the hinterland,
but rarely elsewhere as it doesn’t keep for long.
You probably won’t find food like this in Zadar itself. To get
a broader picture of the cuisine of the region, we highly recommend you take a jaunt inland and keep an eye out for
a family-run restaurant or a seosko domaćinstvo - a rural
smallholding that serves home-grown food to guests. Or
head to Benkovac where there are several culinary festivals
CITY MARKET (PIJACA)
In most Dalmatian towns the market is a sight for sore eyes,
and Zadar’s is one of the biggest and best. It’s been here
since the Middle Ages, but the large open space dates back
to WWII, when many buildings were flattened in this part of
town. Some around the edge of the square are only just being reconstructed. The outside stalls are where you’ll find
mouthwatering displays of fruit, vegetables, fresh herbs
and more... all locally grown and bursting with flavour. Little
old ladies (bakice) also sell home made olive oil, rakija and
cheese – usually far better than the shop-bought equivalent. The indoor meat market is to one side of the square,
and the fish market is opposite, coolly located inside the
city walls. Proud locals claim it’s the best fish market on
the coast. To one side is a section of the market for cheap
clothes and bric-a-brac, great if you need an emergency
pair of flip-flops or a cheap snorkel. Hours of fun browsing,
bargaining and banter.QC‑2, Pod Bedemom bb.
Perhaps the most iconic traditional food of this region, the
dish known in modern Croatia as kaštradina was called
castradina Schiavona during Venetian times, the same as
the basket-hilted schiavona sword. It is thought that both
earned their name from the soldiers from Dalmatia and the
Balkans who fought bravely to protect the Venetian lands.
Anyway, kaštradina in the Zadar region is usually smoked
mutton or goat meat cooked in sauerkraut. You’ll find it in
the hinterland and on Pag island in winter, the time when
fresh meat is scarce. It’s a warming dish that is great washed
down with strong local red wine
Zadar’s Maraska factory moved a few years back to new
technologically-advanced premises but it’s former home,
a beautiful lemon building on the seafront, is one of the
best-loved things in Zadar, as are its products. The company
was founded in 1768 as a distiller of Maraschino liqueur –
a sweet, clear spirit made from Maraschino cherries which
grow well in this climate. The Maraschino cherry is small,
sourish and not too meaty – it’s not so great for eating. But
it makes wonderfully aromatic liqueur and is great in cakes
and juices. Still available in the same basket-wrapped bottle
as at the beginning of the 19th century, Maraschino liqueur
makes a great gift or souvenir.
In times past, the only way of preserving fish was to salt it.
Sardines, the most easily accessible fish, were salted by every
family and kept in storage. Nowadays the sardine has been
usurped by the smaller anchovy, which most people know
from other Mediterranean cuisines. It’s a tasty ingredient in
starters, pizzas, pastas and sauces.Cod in Croatia is almost
always salted; fresh cod is very little used. Salt cod features
in many traditional dishes but it comes from the cold northern waters. The tradition of eating salt cod was imported to
Catholic southern Europe centuries ago since it could be
stored for meatless Fridays. If your travels take you to Kali
on the island of Dugi Otok, keep an eye out for salt tuna
which isn’t made anywhere else in Croatia. Kali is the centre
of Croatia’s fishing industry and most tuna is landed here.
At the water’s edge, especially where it’s rocky, if you spot a
green plant with succulent branching leaves, break off a little
and sniff it. If it has a faint herbal tang, chances are it’s rock
samphire (Crithmum maritimum). Known locally at motar,
it’s rather little used in cooking these days but is regaining
popularity thanks to the wild food movement. The story goes
that in the Second World War people had little other than
samphire to eat, so they became mighty sick of it. But it’s
fantastic cooked and served as a vegetable side dish with a
delightful herby taste. It’s even better pickled, and has saved
the life of many a sailor through history – with its high vitamin content it was taken on long voyages to prevent scurvy.
Summer 2016 31
THE FOODIE’S GUIDE
EXHIBITION OF PAG SHEEP AND CHEESES
At this exhibition evaluate the quality of the cheeses from
the island Pag and meet the sheep responsible for these
renowned cheeses.QKolan, Pag Island.
A FEAST OF MUSSELS IN NOVIGRAD
Welcome to mussel paradise where you can treat yourself
with fresh juicy mussels for as long as you can handle.
Novigrad has long been known for its mussels as they
were exported to other parts of Europe after WW2. These
days, aany connoisseurs of shellfish claim that the mussels
from this area are the best in the Adriatic; delicious and full
of meat. QNovigrad.
THE SNAIL’S TRAIL FESTIVAL OF GASTRONOMY
AND THE CROATIAN SNAIL RACING CHAMPIONSHIPS
Snails are considered a delicacy in much of Dalmatia, and the
pristine environment of the Zadar hinterland is a perfect place
for these groovy gastropods to grow. Snails in the Benkovac
region are cooked over an open fire and served sprinkled
with oil, vinegar and salt.QTrg Domovinske zahvalnosti,
Zadar Tourist Board Archives
16.07 SATURDAY - 17.07 SUNDAY
For those who prefer delicacies such as smoked ham and bacon, this international and gastronomic event is a meaty taste
bud grenade. Not only that, it helps preserve a 17th century
tradition from Nin which is all about the process of salting,
spicing, marinating, smoking and drying pork neck. Competition is fierce with ancestral recipes at stake but it’s all in good
fun. It’s a true ‘dig in and savour’ session. Prestige for some,
a hearty meal for others!QVišeslaov trg, Nin, www.nin.hr.
Contestants jostle for the title of the best prisnac cake, plus
other local specialities. Prisnac is the nemesis of anyone trying to stick to a low-cholesterol diet. A voluptuous mix of
soft cheese, eggs, cream and a little sugar is enveloped in
a bread base to create a golden, gently sweetish cake. It has
been prepared in the hinterland region around Benkovac for
centuries.QŠetalište kneza Branimira, Benkovac, www.tzbenkovac.hr.
THE FESTIVAL OF SALT
The Nin Salt Works (Solana Nin) is a rarity in today’s world as it
is one of the last few sites where salt is produced ‘au naturel’,
whilst keeping the local flora and fauna intact. This festival
showcases various dioramas, individual plants and animals
from the area, different salt crystals, the tools used back in
yonder to those used today, processes and the panning of
salt from the sea to the salt shaker, salt in cosmetics and skin
care, and that’s just a pinch of salt in regards to what can be
seen.QNin Salt Works, Ilirska cesta 7, Nin, www.solananin.
26.08 FRIDAY - 27.08 SATURDAY
ZADAR CRAFT BEER FESTIVAL
Nothing better than a cold beer on a hot summer day or
night, and if you’re in Zadar at the end of August, you’re invited to try some of the best Craft beers Croatia has to offer.
Over 12 micro-breweries present 30 types of beer for avid
beer aficionados. It kicks off at 17:00 and evening entertainment will include live bands and DJs. Be a part of the beer
08.09 THURSDAY - 09.09 FRIDAY
To this very day, Zadar and the whole of Dalmatia is abundant
in fig trees, nurtured as a part of life. And in its honour, the Fig
Festival, which is held in September at the Pet bunara Square.
Chef Mario Arbanas in Pet bunara restaurant prepares many
specialties made of figs and visitors can sample a variety
of dishes prepared in combination with this dazzling fruit.
Throughout the festival, one can learn more about the fig,
from its processing to its gastro segment, as well as from its
agrarian to its artistic side. By the end of this, you’ll not only be
tasting figs but dreaming figs; you’ll never see figs in the same
light again!QTrg pet bunara, tel. (+385-) 098 955 06 42. J
32 Zadar In Your Pocket
The Zadar region has an excellent microclimate for growing
wine. The majority of the wine-growing areas are in the Ravni
kotari plains behind the city and in the Bukovica uplands a little further north. There’s also smaller-scale production on the
region’s islands, notably Pag. Much of the production is still on
a family scale, the products reserved for family and friends. However, the delicate shoots of change are visible like small tendrils
on a vine: a number of award-winning small winegrowers have
been emerging over the last few years.
The town of Benkovac was until recently best known in commercial winegrowing terms for Rosé Benkovac. However, the
winemaking conglomerate that owns the Benkovac winery has
planted large amounts of French vines in the village of Korlat
and now offers pricey bottles of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Merlot throughout Croatia under the Korlat brand.
Interestingly, a number of small wine growers are starting up
production nurturing indigenous grape varieties and highquality, sustainable production methods. One is Šime Škaulj
in Nadin. He produces the local Maraština variety, a light, fruity
wine perfect for summer drinking. He also offers Merlot, Syrah,
Cabernet Sauvignon and a Cuvée blend. All his wines are certified organic, and his Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 and 2011 are
Decanter magazine silver medal winners. It seems French vines
are fond of the local soils.
Not far away in Smilčić, Mladen Anić also produces a fine
Maraština as well as a clutch of red wines including Crljenak,
a heritage grape variety that is a genetic parent of Zinfandel.
Closer to Benkovac at the tiny village of Podgrađe near the Roman ruins of Asseria, Božo Bačić is also a certified organic winegrower. His dessert wine, Asseria, has won numerous awards
including the Decanter World Wine Awards Silver Medal.
Another dessert wine from the Benkovac area is yellow muscat
(muškat žuti) from the MasVin plantation at Polača (between
Benkovac and Biograd). Muškat žuti is usually grown inland,
but the wine has done well here, as its summery straw and
acacia nose suggests. Also certified organic, you can pick up
this company’s wine (which also includes Crljenak, Merlot and
Syrah) in the region’s supermarkets at refreshingly reasonable
prices - around 30-35 kn. Look out also for MasVin’s awardwinning olive oil.
Moving on to Pag island, Gegić is a native white that the locals
grow in quantity. The scant, limestone terrain bathed in sunshine
produces a fairly heady brew. A fabulous place to try this and
other wines is the Boškinac hotel and winery just outside Stara
Novalja. The house wine is gorgeous yet affordable, and though
their bottled wines are far from cheap (starting at 200kn) they are
well worth splashing out on (pun absolutely intended).
Boškinac wines are rarely less than 15% alcohol, but this writer
spent a memorable night at Boškinac (my wedding, no less)
drinking outrageous quantities of the stuff with friends. Come
morning every single one of us was fresh as a daisy, a testament
to the extraordinary high quality of these wines.
BECOME A WINE
Who better but a qualified sommelier Jelena to give
you tip top tips when it comes to wine.
G&J Tvoja krv i moja, Svaguša, Nadin
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
Wine that is certainly recommended, intense in flavour
bearing an aroma of plum and red berries. It is full-bodied, maintaining beautiful mature tannins thus filling
the palette with fruit and fullness. This well-balanced,
complex and powerful wine seeks accompanying
foods such as venison, lamb grilled, steak ...
Korlat Cabernet Sauvignon, Benkovac - Stankovci
Less than 20 kilometres from Zadar is the Korlat Vineyards that produces excellent wines. Their Cabernet
Sauvignon is a very powerful complex wine, with a
deep and intense ruby r ed colour and purple reflection.
The scent on the nose is rich in berries; dominated by
blueberries, currants and black plum. The taste is quite
lush with a long finish and ripe tannins. The impact of
the barrel is very nicely integrated into the wine. This
is a wine that nicely complements venison, beef, and
aged cheese dishes.
Vina Punta Skala, Kraljevski vinogradi, Zadar
Pošip is a wine that densely moves in the glass and expresses its fullness through the originality of this great
grape variety. The scent of herbs along with fruits such
as apricots and figs can be felt. When poured, it seems
almost oily and leaves a creamy trail on the pallet. Pošip
is excellent with chicken, duck, fish and other lighter
meals in general.
Summer 2016 33
Coffee & Cakes
From authentic zadar maraška to fig and cheesecakes that
spell art deco meets sweeeettt! Ohh, and if you are out
and about this time of year, make sure you try the amazing
asparagus cake.QC‑3, Majke Margarite 3, tel. (+385-23)
23 30 00, email@example.com, www.arthotelkalelarga.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00. PAGBXW
A sparklingly modern cafe and slastičarnica, very popular because of good homemade cakes and pastries from
the local factory in Arbanasi. Opposite the National Theatre.QC‑3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 10 16, www.
restorani-zadar.hr. Open 07:00 - 24:00. PAGB
EVA IL GELATO ORIGINALE
The temperature suddenly drops with organic ice-cream
made according to traditional recipes and covered with
icycles to maintain quality of the highest order. On top of
that, prices are quoted by cornets and not scoops. Beat
the heat wave and choose your flave! Also at Ulica plemića
Borelli 7 (C-3).QC‑4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 8, tel. (+385-23)
25 19 09. Open 08:00 - 24:00. PAGBXW
Good ice cream up for grabs right on Narodni trg.QC‑3,
Narodni trg 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 11 21. Open 07:00 - 01:00.
Small and full of charm with a pleasant interior and excellent service. Great to simply chill from the hot sun and enjoy some jazz and funk tunes by night.QN‑5, Polačišće 9,
tel. (+385-) 098 57 97 34. Open 07:00 - 24:00.
BEACH & COCKTAIL BAR BAMBOO
Open all day long, you can enjoy a drink anytime, from
dawn to dusk. Start your day off with some quiet meditation as you sip on your morning coffee. In the afternoon, grab a drink with some friends and stretch out on a
lounge chair under one of the numerous canopies made
of palm branches. While in the evening, enjoy watching
the magnificent sunset, before dressing up and coming
out for a cocktail at night.QG‑5, Obala kneza Domagoja
bb, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.restorani-zadar.hr.
Open 07:00 - 01:00. T6NGBXW
A super spot to sit and enjoy the buzz of conversation and
a prime viewing position of the handsome footbridge and
the Old Town peninsula opposite. You can pick up international papers in the nearby kiosk.QD‑1, Obala kneza
Branimira 10, tel. (+385-23) 30 56 84, branimircaffe@
thcatering.com.hr. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 24:00. PAGBXW
34 Zadar In Your Pocket
The locals say that this café has the best coffee in the city.
We shall add that there are a few other cafes nearby that
provide strong competition to such remarks, but what
Callegro has over its rivals is the most beautiful view at
the old Roman Forum. From its position, you can also kick
back and watch other people strolling through the famous
street Kalelarga!QC‑3, Široka ulica 18, info@callegro.
com. Open 07:00 - 01:30, Sun 08:00 - 01:30. PNG
‘Famous’ is a beach bar, pub and restaurant, all in one. It sits
along the Borik Beach and has a Caribbean feel and design
to it with a large terrace and sun loungers also. Beer, who
said beer? Choose from over 200 types of beer from across
the globe and an amazing range of wines, cocktails and other beverages, as well as a wide selection of different meals.
QF‑4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 63 62 23/(+385-)
092 288 33 10, email@example.com, www.famous.adriabars.hr. Open 07:00 - 01:30. TA6LGBXW
A fine location on the Kalelarga. The shaded terrace is
blessed by the twin attractions of St Donatus’, the most
famous symbol of Zadar, and the Forum. Cake. Mmmmmmmmm.QC‑3, Široka ulica 18, tel. (+385-23) 25 07 05,
firstname.lastname@example.org. Open 07:00 - 01:00.
A cool clean interior with artworks, and a delightful little
courtyard terrace. In a passage near St Dominic’s. They serve
breakfast and small bites.QD‑3, Špire Brusine 12, tel. (+385) 098 62 67 55. Open 07:00 - 23:00. PNGBXW
Has one of the most luxurious terraces for sitting by the
sea, drinking great coffee and watching the sun go down.
QF‑3, Krešimirova obala 46. Open 08:00 - 01:00. PN
ILLY CONCEPT BAR
New and refreshing this café tucked away in the new shopping center on R. Boškovića Street, offers some really colorful specialty drinks, Illy coffee and a chilled out atmosphere.
Indoor and outdoor seating, a nice place to relax and have
a conversation.QD‑3, Ruđera Boškovića 4. Open 07:00 23:00. Closed Sun. PTBXW
The best location on Narodni trg, next to the City Sentinel,
the interior is actually a former church. Relax by day and experience the fun in Lovre by night with regular live gigs and
DJ performances.QC‑3, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 26
78. Open 07:00 - 01:00. P6NGBXW
MANGO DAY & NIGHT CLUB
This brightly-coloured bar is on the waterfront at Diklo, a little
west of Zadar’s centre and opposite the Borik complex. It’s
a lively place to mingle with a pleasantly mixed crowd and
enjoy a few expertly mixed cocktails, especially at sundown.
QF‑3, Krešimirova obala 12, Diklo, tel. (+385-) 091 734 07
69, email@example.com. Open 08:00 - 04:00. P6L
A covered terrace with a wooden deck and comfy couches,
very popular with the teeny crowd.QD‑3, Ruđera Boškovića
6, tel. (+385-23) 21 13 68. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00
- 01:30. BW
Sonus Festival Archives - Photo by Goran Perešin - GOXMAG
On warm evenings, everybody is outside. Sitting on benches and promenading the street (the Italian Corzo) are habits that still linger. Zadar’s nightlife is neither sceney nor
divided into old and young, so in most places you’ll find an
unpretentious mix of people.
While the Old Town is an atmospheric place to spend your
evenings, you can also spend time in places like Borik, Diklo
and Kolovare, to catch the sea breeze and watch the sun go
down. Zadar’s sunsets are supposed to be the best in the
world. Apparently, Alfred Hitchcock agreed.
If you’re looking for larger crowds - of the clubbing type
- attend one of the festivals in the surrounding area, Zrće
Beach especially that offer plenty of different musical genres and opportunities to hang out with locals and tourists
Great multimedia venue hosting anything from quality live
gigs (from rock via gypsy to electronica), plus fashion shows,
screenings and exhibitions.QB‑2, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+38523) 25 38 33/(+385-) 099 210 33 09, info@arsenalzadar.
com, www.arsenalzadar.com. Open for organized con‑
certs and special events, so it’s best to keep track via the
Entertainment for all lovers of the 1950s and ‘60s. Reinvigorating the atmosphere of New Orleans or even the spirit of Frank
Sinatra with the swingy jazzy sound is what it’s all about!
Lots of Croatian artists and bands are locked in for summer
gigs, so stay tuned for more news!QL‑3, Andrije Hebranga 9,
tel. (+385-) 098 950 87 95, firstname.lastname@example.org. Open
06:00 - 24:00. PT6ENGBXW
A small bar where locals tend to congregate and get merry.
QD‑3, Varoška 2, email@example.com. Open 07:00
- 01:00. PT6NGBXW
Next to the rowing club and right on Jazine Bay with a
beautiful view of Stari Grad. Whether you’re a fan of funk,
rock or pop music, you will love this place with live bands
and DJs hosting weekend nights.QC‑1, Obala kneza Bra‑
nimira 64, tel. (+385-23) 31 36 29. Open 07:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 07:00 - 06:00. PNBXW
Just by the Riva, a nice leafy terrace and an inside bar which
is actually within the city bastions. Comfortable, relaxed, and
the only place with satellite radio, meaning it registers above
average on the music taste-o-meter.QD‑4, Obala kralja Pe‑
tra Krešimira IV bb, tel. (+385-) 091 208 55 61. Open 08:00
- 01:00. NGBXW
Podroom (meaning basement in English) is a night club and
place for party goers who wish to live and let live! Though
open only on weekends with DJs as hosts, it can receive up to
400 guests and has special booths for a dozen people max…
plus a VIP room. So come and join in the action!QM‑5, Mar‑
ka Marulića bb, tel. (+385-) 099 749 84 51, podroomzd@
gmail.com, podroom.club. Open Fri, Sat 24:00 - 06:00.
CAFE GALLERY GINA
Wildly popular after dark, good music, a tiny art gallery
and an older crowd all crammed into a little space in an
atmospheric stone street.QC‑3, Varoška 2, dario.longin@
gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 01:30. PJA6GB
36 Zadar In Your Pocket
Indeed popular with those who appreciate la dolce
vita, i.e. the trendy crowd.QC‑4, Matice Dalmatinske
6, firstname.lastname@example.org. Open 18:30 01:30. PJ 6N B X W
Has a gorgeous terrace in a little park with a stone balustrade. A popular hangout with locals.QC‑3, Stomorica
6a, tel. (+385-) 092 340 60 42. Open 07:00 - 02:00.
PJ A 6B XW
LA BODEGA ZADAR
Conveniently located in the heart of the Old City, this
is a great spot for drinking some superb wine. This chic
and trendy wine bar at night also offers a breakfast and
brunch menu for the early birds to enjoy the sights and
sounds of the most popular street, Kalelarga, by day.
QC‑3, Kalelarga - Široka ulica, tel. (+385-) 099 462 94
40, email@example.com, www.labodega.hr. Open
08:00 - 02:00. PTJA GB X W
One of the coolest chill-out spots for a slightly older
crowd. After sundown, comfy cushions are strewn on the
steps by St Anastasia’s cathedral.QB‑3, Trg Sv. Stošije 3,
tel. (+385-23) 25 08 51. Open 07:00 - 24:00. PNG
A good old thirst needs a good old beverage, so why not visit
one of the city’s pubs located at the very end of the Zadar
peninsula. No two nights are the same with different gigs and
genres filling the weekly timetable. Spacious with a relaxed
vibe and a snazzy view of the port and marina!QB‑2, Liburn‑
ska obala 6. Open 07:00 - 06:00. PTNGBXW
Walking distance from the town’s famous Sea Organ, this is
one of the oldest and most famous bars in Zadar. The newly
refurbished ‘Rio Bar’ is truly unique as its main focus is on
the 70s era; the sounds of funk, soul and disco echo inside
its walls both on weekdays and weekends. The bar’s slogan;
‘Where the funky generation meets’ probably describes it
well since it has been a popular meeting place since the late
1980s. So come and feel funky any time!QD‑4, Putevac 5,
tel. (+385-) 095 199 73 60, firstname.lastname@example.org.
Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PTJN
A great place to warm up and mingle while standing with
a glass in your hand! The aura that surrounds is filled with
famous quotes, staged masks and theatre curtains. ‘To be
or not to be’, this is the place to be…QRuđera Boškovića 4,
tel. (+385-) 091 734 07 69, email@example.com. Open
08:00 - 01:30. PNBXW
Summer 2016 37
THE FACTORY BAR
It is as if the interior had been mirrored from the TV series
‘Sex and the City’. Original walls, TV monitors and the general décor have wooed punters. It’s a bar in the city centre
that guarantees for a good time with a splash of urban
music bellowing.QD‑3, Rušera Boškovića 4, tel. (+385-)
097 730 26 62, firstname.lastname@example.org. Open 07:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:30. PABXW
With its cool vibe, great music and pleasant ambience, this
bar is an excellent place to sit and relax whilst polishing off
a beer or sipping on coffee throughout the day. And when
day turns to night, the bar transforms into a club where
the tempo rises till the late hours.QB‑1, Obala Kneza Trpi‑
mira 4, tel. (+385-) 091 321 08 80. Open 07:00 - 01:30.
A super, modern bar by the Borik marina, with a great
selection of drinks and a terrace with live music. Recommended for easy early evening drinking. Sail into the cordially named Yachting Bar in case you are feeling peckish.
It offers croissants, hot and cold sandwiches, toasts, and all
the other snacks one would desire for immediate hunger
satisfaction.QG‑5, Obala kneza Domagoja 1, Borik, tel.
(+385-) 095 539 53 91, email@example.com. Open
07:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 05:00. PNBXW
Fresh Island Festival Archives - Photo by Goran Perešin - GOXMAG
LEDANA LOUNGE BAR
Seeking an escape from the hustle and bustle, then head
to the Queen Jelena Park and visit Ledana, that is ‘icy’ in
our lingo. It is totally new and out of this world, it has a
luminous icy blue mosaic like interior which is ideal for escaping the hot sun. Choose to chill on one of three terraces
where you can indulge in some live music and concerts
as well as huge theme party nights.QD‑3, Perivoj kraljice
Jelene Madijevke, tel. (+385-) 095 396 39 96/(+385-)
098 63 07 60, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.ledana.hr. Open
08:00 - 04:00. PA6BXW
Opened by two members of Brit reggae outfit UB40 this
spectacular garden atop the city walls used to be the
coolest hangout in the former Yugoslavia. Now, coolly
minimalist with ultra-comfortable loungers, it’s a perfect place for enjoying drinks, sunshine, views, a game of
chess and hot summer nights to the tune of nu jazz, dub,
latin, breaks and downtempo electronica.QB‑2, Bedemi
zadarskih pobuna bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 31, info@
Open 10:30 - 01:30. JA6UBXW
OUT OF TOWN
If you’re looking for a true beach party in the Ibiza sense,
head for the island of Pag. Just outside the town of Novalja is a beach called Zrće, a haven of white pebbles and
crystal sea. Aquarius, probably the best club in Zagreb, has
a superb space here, with places to eat and drink, homemade ice cream, an aerobics club (daytime), and dancing
by night. The club is superbly equipped - cool off in the
bar area in a paddling pool. Quality.QZrće beach, No‑
valja, Pag island, tel. (+385-53) 66 20 38/(+385-) 091 199
78 99, email@example.com, www.aquarius.hr/zrce. Open
00:00 - 24:00. A6LBKCW
Another popular outfit from Zagreb brings you great summer entertainment on Pag. Bar and restaurant areas are
decked out in exotic style, there are swimming pools, a
water slide and a jaccuzzi. Balearic-style house music and
foam parties, and after 8 the parties see good resident
DJs and international guests playing varied music styles.
QZrće beach, Novalja, Pag island, tel. (+385-) 091
462 92 98/(+385-) 091 561 51 03, firstname.lastname@example.org.
hr, www.papaya.com.hr. Open 16:00 - 20:00, 23:00 06:00. ABXCW
A huge and popular nightclub (the biggest on the Croatian coast), close to the apartment complex, with DJ parties and fashion shows at weekends.QZaton Holiday Resort,
Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 80, email@example.com, www.zaton.hr.
Open Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 22:00 - 04:00. PLNGBXW
38 Zadar In Your Pocket
Zadar Tourist Board Archives
CITY FORUM (FORUM)
The Roman Forum - the largest on this side of the Adriatic was founded by the first Emperor Augustus, as documented
on two 3rd Century stone inscriptions on the site. A raised
area on the west side was the site of a temple dedicated to
Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. To one side a “Pillar of Shame“ still
stands, where naughty people were chained and pilloried. (A
second one was taken away and now stands near the Three
Wells Square). The Forum also comprised a basilica and rooms
for council chambers and citizens’ assemblies. Underneath
was a colonnade where shops and workshops once stood.
The site was only discovered in the 1930s. Allied bombers
inadvertently assisted in the clearing process, and site was
completely cleared and restored between 1964 and ‘67. One
of the most beautiful things about these remains is the way
that they are still a part of the fabric of the city. No signs forbid
you to touch or sit on the stones. Take time one evening to
sit and imagine the bustle of the traders, the grandeur of the
pagan temples and the horrors of the blood sacrifices that
took place on the very altars you can see on this spot.QB‑3.
CITY GATES (GRADSKA VRATA)
The city walls have had several entrances knocked through
them at more confident points in Zadar’s history. Some of
them were walled up for good, but four remain as the vital
link between the town within the walls and the sea outside
The Venetians built the Land Gate - then the main entrance
into the city - on the little Foša harbour in 1543. It’s considered one of the finest monuments of the Venetian rule in
Dalmatia, and has the form of a triumphal arch with a central
passage for wheeled traffic, and two smaller side arches for
pedestrians. It’s decorated with motifs such as St Chrysogonus (Zadar’s main patron saint) on his horse, and the Shield of
St Mark (the coat of arms of the Republic of Venice). Previously,
the area had been highly defensive, with a surrounding moat.
Between the ferryport and market is the Sea Gate (also
known as St Chrysogonus’ Gate, because of its proximity to
the church of the same name), built in 1573 to celebrate the
victory of the Christian fleet over the Turks at Lepanto. Near
the bridge on the north side is the neo-Renaissance Bridge
Gate, knocked through by the Italians only 70 years ago,
and leading directly to Narodni trg and the Kalelarga. Further west, by the old Arsenal, is the fourth and smallest gate,
named after St Rocco, connecting the Three Wells Square
with the harbour area.QD‑2.
CITY LODGE (GRADSKA LOŽA)
Built by the same architect as the City Sentinel, this building
once was the city’s courthouse, council chambers and library.
With its huge windows and high ceilings, it nowadays serves
as a stunning exhibition space, hosting events such as the
international photography triennial “Man and the Sea” and
the triennial of contemporary Croatian art “The Blue Salon”.
QD‑3, Narodni trg, www.nmz.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Ad‑
mission 10 - 20kn. J
CITY SENTINEL (GRADSKA STRAŽA)
Designed by a Venetian architect in the late Renaissance
style, with a large central clock tower and a surrounding
stone barrier and railing with holes for cannons (both later
additions). The building once housed the Ethnographic
Section of the National Museum, one of the most important
collections in the country, and worth seeing for the rich colours of local national costumes, textiles (weaving and lace),
jewellery, agricultural, fishing and household objects.QC‑3,
Narodni trg, www.nmz.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admis‑
CITY WALLS (GRADSKI BEDEMI)
Once the largest city-fortress in the entire Republic of Venice, Zadar’s walls allowed it to retain more of its independence than most of its neighbouring cities, and meant that
Summer 2016 39
doors such as the one on Five Wells Square - you can see
huge empty spaces inside once used as military storage
facilities.On top of the bastion above the Harbour Gate is
a promenade called the Muraj - a peaceful vantage point
over the mainland opposite and the people crossing the
bridge. One of the large yellow buildings up there is one of
Zadar’s old newspaper presses.QC/D‑ 2.
ST ANASTASIA’S CATHEDRAL (KATEDRALA SV.
An attractive Romanesque cathedral - the biggest in Dalmatia - built during the 12th and 13th centuries. As with
many Dalmatian churches, the belfry is separate. You can
climb to the top - the view is amazing. Two attractive rosettes decorate the front portal, and a gallery of blind arches the flanks, with a ledge above them providing seating
for pigeons to look down on the throngs on the Kalelarga.
Simple stone blocks are lightened with decorative friezes,
and the lovely stonemasonry around the doors is worth
a careful look. Highlights of the interior include the stone
ciborium covering the high altar, frescoes, an intricately
carved choir and an Early Christian mosaic in the sacristy.
QB‑3, Trg svete Stošije. J
it was never captured by the Turks. Previously, there were
even more fortifications than there are now, but what are
left are put to good use, with delightful parks and promenades on top of them (see below). Take a look inside
Love gods take note. The most romantic way to visit
the Old Town for the first time is to catch the little red
rowing boat waiting, rain or shine, on a jetty by the
Tankerkomerc building on the mainland side of the
footbridge. There has been a man in a rowing boat here
for 800 years. He’s getting a bit past it now, but these
Dalmatians are a hardy lot.
Seriously, this is a famous local sight, called the “barkarjol”, and apart from its charm, the 100 metre trip across
the Jazine bay saves you a twenty minute walk, and
costs only 5kn.
Zadar Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Tim Ertl
40 Zadar In Your Pocket
ST DONATUS’ CHURCH (CRKVA SV. DONATA)
Imposing and austere, yet absolutely harmonius and original in form, it’s not surprising that the pre-Romanesque
St Donatus’ is taken as the very symbol of Zadar and an
image of the unique spirit of Dalmatia. The circular shape
is typical of the early Byzantine age in Dalmatia. It was
founded in the 9th century, when it was called the Church
of the Holy Trinity, and given its present name six hundred
years later in memory of a famous bishop.
Religious services are no longer held here, but the stark
interior has excellent acoustics and is used as the concert
venue for the annual International Festival of Medieval
Renaissance Music, also known as ‘The Musical Evenings
in St Donatus’.QB‑3, Poljana pape Ivana Pavla II. Open
09:00 - 21:00, Jun/Sep open 09:00 - 21:00. Jul - Aug
open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 20kn. J
“Riva” is a generic word meaning “waterfront”, usually
a place to enjoy a stroll and a coffee in seaside towns.
When people in Zadar talk about the Riva, they mean the
pleasant promenade on the edge of the Old Town peninsula called Obala Petra Krešimira IV, named after a Croatian
King. Until the 19th century, the space you see here was
occupied by an outer ring of fortifications, needed to keep
invaders at bay. When the Austrians took over the administration of Zadar in 1813, a period of peace began.
As well as founding the beautiful parks on top of parts of
Zadar’s system of fortifications, they completely removed
the outer ring. The Riva is beautifully planted with lawns,
flowers and palms, is the site of the stunning University
building, and is a great place to stroll either in the evenings
or even to have a dip by day.QA/B/C‑4, Obala kralja Petra
CHURCH OF OUR LADY OF HEALTH (CRKVA
GOSPE OD “KAŠTELA” (ZDRAVJA))
In the green park by Three Wells Square (see Essential Zadar)
is the little orange Church of Our Lady of Health, one of the
city’s best-loved churches. It lies in the quiet old neighbourhood of Kampo Kaštelo. Built in 1703 on the site of two much
older churches, it contains a copy of a famous painting “Our
Lady of Kaštelo”, the original of which is now in the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver and Gold of
the City of Zadar ).QA‑3, Braće Bilišić 1.
CHURCH OF ST MARY “DE PUSTERLA” STOMORICA (CRKVA SV. MARIJE “DE PUSTERLA”
The foundations of this tiny Early Christian church (11th Century) were found in 1880 near Hotel Zagreb on the northern
edge of the peninsula, and uncovered in the ‘60s. The floor
plan of the church is fascinating: the five semicircular apses
(typical of early Dalmatian church architecture) and the semicircular portal surrounding the central space give it an unusual six-leaved clover shape.QC‑4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 12.
ST ANDREW’S AND ST PETER THE ELDER’S
(CRKVA SV. PETRA STAROG I SV. ANDRIJE)
On the corner of Ulica Dalmatinskog Sabora and Ulica Hrvoja
Vukčića Hrvatinića (near the market), the simple frontage of
St Andrew’s has an unremarkable 17th century facade, but
other parts date back to the 5th and 6th centuries.
Through the apse you enter the very unusual church of St
Peter the Elder, also from the early Middle Ages. Both contain
fragments of ancient frescoes, and the atmospheric interiors are now used as exhibition spaces.QC‑2, Hrvoja Vukčića
ST CHRYSOGONUS’ CHURCH (CRKVA SV.
A beautifully preserved little Romanesque church, consecrated in 1175, originally belonging to a Benedictine monastery
that once stood nearby. The front is quite simple, while on the
sides are delightful barley-sugar twist columns, and to the
rear three semicircular apses, the central one decorated with
a gallery. The interior is also pleasingly simple, with many remains of frescoes. The high altar was built in 1701 by citizens
who were spared from plague. In 1717 white marble statues
of Zadar’s four patron saints were erected on the altar.QC‑2,
Poljana Pape Aleksandra III 2.
ST DOMINIC’S CHURCH (CRKVA SV. DOMINIKA)
This former church building has had an interesting past.
Consecrated in 1280, it belonged to a Dominican monastery
who founded the first university in Croatia there (1396). When
Napoleon took Zadar in 1805, he abolished the Dominican
order, turned the church into a barracks, and shut down the
university. The church has recently been renovated, and part
of the monastery complex is now home to Zadar’s popular
and internationally acclaimed Puppet Theatre.QD‑3, Špire
ST ELIAS’S CHURCH (CRKVA SV. ILIJE)
The city’s Orthodox church was originally used by Greek
merchants and sailors, later serving the city’s Serbian
community. It stands just behind the Forum, and since
this area is undergoing extensive renovation, you can’t
access the church at the moment. It was built in the late
Baroque style at the end of the 18th century, and contains
a wonderful collection of icons spanning the 16th to 18th
ST FRANCIS’S CHURCH & FRANCISCAN MONASTERY (FRANJEVAČKI SAMOSTAN I CRKVA SV.
Consecrated in 1280, Saint Francis’s is the oldest Gothic
church in Dalmatia, also displaying fine Renaissance and
Baroque work, and containing some very important artworks. The church was the venue for the signing of the
Zadar peace treaty of 1358, when the Venetians ended
centuries of attacks on the city and handed it to the
protection of the Croatian-Hungarian King Ludwig I of
Anjou. Particularly worth seeing is the wonderful choir in
a local style known as Floral Gothic. The attached Franciscan monastery has a beautiful Renaissance cloister. Zadar’s young people like to come here for Midnight Mass
at Christmas. In the early part of 2011, during restoration
works, a 400sqm floor space entirely covered in headstones from between the 14th and the 19th centuries
was discovered. Mass Sunday 08:30, 10:00, 20:00. Mass
in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment.
QA/B‑3, Trg sv.Frane 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 68. Open
09:00 - 18:00.
ST MICHAEL’S CHURCH (CRKVA SV. MIHOVILA)
On the corner of Ulica Špire Brusine and Ulica Mihe Klaica
is the simple and charming Gothic frontage of St Michael’s,
once part of a Franciscan monastery. A relief on the portal
shows St Michael flanked by St Anastasia and St Chrysogonus. The present church was built in 1389 and added to
in the 19th century. Of interest inside are a 13th century
painted Romanesque crucifix and a statue of Saint Michael
on the high altar.QD‑3, Špire Brusine 4.
ST SIMEON’S CHURCH (CRKVA SV. ŠIMUNA)
East of Narodni trg is the church named after the most
popular patron saint of Zadar. First built in the 5th century,
it has undergone alterations until as recently as 1980, and
some find the terracotta and white exterior disappointing
in comparison with the other churches. But it has a pleasant
Mediterranean aspect, with palms planted outside, and the
gilded reliquary of the saint inside is one of Zadar’s highlights (see The Silver Casket of St Simeon ).QD‑3, Trg Petra
Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 05.
FIVE WELLS SQUARE (TRG 5 BUNARA)
During the 16th century, the Venetians helped the city
withstand Turkish sieges by building a large drinking water
cistern with five ornamental wellheads. When the Turkish
Summer 2016 41
threat ended, a park was built on top of the nearby bastion,
and nowadays the attractive stone-flagged park serves as
the perfect gathering point for skateboarders.QD‑3, Trg 5
GREETING TO THE SUN
Witness this unique chance to see the latest project in Zadar
called ‘A salute to the sun’ by the architect Nikola Bašić, who
represented Croatia at the 11th Venice Biennial 2008. This
project is in alliance with the Sea Organ project. In making
these two projects possible, musician Ivan Stamać and as
well as engineer and expert on water hydraulics Vladimir
Andročec have both made significant contributions.QA‑3.
STATUE OF PETAR ZORANIĆ
On St Chrysogonus’ square is a statue of a man with rather
muscular legs. This is Petar Zoranić, the writer of the first
novel in Croatian. Born in Zadar, he was the son of a family
of nobles from Nin. The beauty of the surrounding mountains and the sea was his inspiration and his theme in Planine (“Mountains”), written in 1536, a pastoral romance and
a product of the Renaissance in Zadar at that time - a time
when the city was under siege by the Turks, but art and culture prospered within.
STATUE OF ŠPIRO BRUSINA
The handsome fellow staring at a shell in front of the University in Zadar is none other than Špiro Brusina. Born in
1845, he was an expert in natural sciences and founder of
ornithology in Croatia. He was also a zoologist, explorer,
and cultural and public official. Another curious fact is that
he was a leading member in the Croatian chapter of the
freemasons. What secrets does that shell contain?QD‑4.
THE CAPTAIN’S TOWER (KAPETANOVA KULA)
A pentagonal tower on the Five Wells Square, built by the
Venetians to strengthen the city against Turkish attacks. It
gets its name from the nearby residence of the Venetian
city captain, and is now used as an exhibition space.QD‑3,
Trg pet bunara.
THE CITY CEMETERY, HERITAGE MONUMENT
Cemeteries, most vacationers aren’t exactly thrilled at the
thought of them. However it does have to be mentioned
some of the highest quality stonework is on display at
these sites. The city cemetery in Zadar is proof of that, and
to be honest, when you visit on a sunny day it’s really not
all that morbid.QR‑3.
THE PETAR ZORANIĆ SQUARE
Located between the Five Wells Square, St Simon’s Church
and the Queen Jelena Park, this square is unique as you can
view archaeological sites under glass. Amongst them is a
stone sarcophagus containing four skeletons but with only
one inscription, that of a local monk named Juraj and dates
between 750 and 850 AD, a rare archaeological treat.QD‑3.
42 Zadar In Your Pocket
THE SEA ORGAN (MORSKE ORGULJE)
Spring 2005 saw Zadar gain something absolutely unique:
the world’s first pipe organ that’s played by the sea. . Simple, elegant stone steps have been built on the quayside,
perfect for sitting on. Underneath, 35 pipes end in whistles
with openings on the quayside above. The movement of
the sea pushes air through, and - depending on the size
and velocity of the wave - chords are played. As you sit and
listen to the ever-changing sounds created by the sea’s energy, you can bask in the sun, watch one of Zadar’s famous
sunsets or enjoy the balmy night air.QA‑4, Obala kralja
Petra Krešimira IV.
ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM (ARHEOLOŠKI
On the Forum square is the low, modern building of the
Archeological Museum, featuring artefacts from Zadar’s
development from Prehistoric times through to the first
Croatian settlements. For a chronological tour, it makes
sense to go directly to the prehistoric exhibition on the
second floor, which covers decorative ceramics, weaponry
and items the seafaring Liburnians brought from Greece
and Italy. The first floor covers the Classical period, from
the Romanised Liburnians (1st century BC) to the widescale
Roman settlement (6th century AD). Artefacts include weaponry, items from local necropoli and sculpture, mosiacs and
art created in far-flung parts of the Roman Empire. The collection of 1st-3rd century glassware is wonderful. Also well
worth seeing is a reconstruction showing the Forum area in
Roman times. In a smaller room are exhibits from the development of Christianity in North Dalmatia in the late Classical
and early Byzantine period, and rare artefacts from the invasion of the Goths. The ground floor (early Middle Ages, 8th
to 11th centuries) contains exhibits from early Croatian graves
near Nin, and stone furniture from churches which did not
survive the ages.
Archeological Museum in Zadar displays ancient Rome in a
new contemporary way by using thematic sections to describe life in ancient Zadar (Lader) and areas of the southern part of Liburni (Northern Dalmatia). As well, statues of
Caesar, Augustus, Tiberius and one of Tiberius’s successors,
along with numerous inscriptions, sculptures and portraits
that are included at this permanent exhibition.QC‑3, Trg
opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 13, firstname.lastname@example.org,
www.amzd.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. July - August 31 Open
09:00 - 22:00. Admission 30kn. J
GALLERY OF ARTS (GALERIJA UMJETNINA)
A permanent exhibition of Croatian art and sculpture from
the 19th and 20th centuries. Particularly of note are the artworks dating 1945-49, a collection of Baroque sacred art and
the works of prominent Zadar artist Franjo Salghetti.QD‑3,
Medulićeva 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 11 74, www.nmz.hr. Open
09:00 - 13:00, Wed 13:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun, Open every
1st Saturday in month 09:00 - 13:00. Admission 10 - 20kn.
MUSEUM OF ILLUSIONS
The Museum of Illusions is an optical tour de force that’s a thrill
for the whole family. Newly opened in the heart of Zadar’s
old town, the museum is unique in this part of Europe. Trick
your mind and your senses with an array of exhibitions that
will change the way you see the world around you. Come
take a tour of a place like no other. You won’t believe your
eyes!QD‑2, Poljana Zemaljskog Odbora 2, tel. (+385-23) 31
68 03, email@example.com, www.zadar.muzejiluzija.com.
Open 09:00 - 24:00. Admission 40 - 150kn.
NATIONAL MUSEUM (NARODNI MUZEJ ZADAR)
The National Museum in Zadar provides a unique cultural insight
to visiting tourists, be through Natural History, Ethnography,
or the Art Gallery with its impressive collections and exhibitions. The City Lodge hosts a number of current exhibitions
also, while the 13th century Rector’s palace is home to the
‘Cages’ exhibit as well as a maritime collection. In addition to
all of this, the National Museum in Zadar has two dislocated
objects: the regional Ethnographic collection Veli Iž and the
regional Cultural-historical collection Mali Iž. Tickets must be
purchased separately for each aspect of the museum.QC‑2,
Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51, nmz.
hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admis‑
sion 10 - 20kn. J
THE MUSEUM OF ANCIENT GLASS (MUZEJ
It’s housed in the 19th century Cosmacendi Palace and has
some outstanding views that overlook the Jazine harbour.
The museum contains one of the premium collections of Roman glassware outside Italy, with a cornucopia of goblets, jars
and vials retrieved from archaeological sites across Dalmatia.
Highlights include the delicate vessels used by Roman ladies
to store perfumes, skin creams and essential oils. Also look
out for glass cups used to celebrate Mass, and dainty flasks in
which holy water was stored. Take the opportunity to see the
replica Roman glassware on sale as this is one of the classiest
souvenir-stops in the city.QD‑2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1,
tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33/(+385-23) 36 38 30, www.mas-zadar.
hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 10 - 30kn.
DEPUTY’S PALACE (PROVIDUROVA PALAČA)
Completed in 1607 as the residence of the Venetian Deputy
to Zadar, it now houses the Matica Hrvatska (the Central Croatian Cultural and Publishing Society). The building adjoining
it at Medulićeva 2 houses the Scientific Department of the
National Musem.QD‑3, Medulićeva 2. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
Admission 20kn. J
NASSIS AND PATRIZIO PALACES (PALAČE NASSIS
Near St Simeon’s Church in Ulica don Ive Prodana are two beautiful examples of Gothic-Renaissance palaces, demonstrating how
architecture, and in particular the creation of courtyard gardens,
flowered during the 14th and 15th centuries behind the city
walls, despite incessant bombardment by enemies.QD/C ‑3.
44 Zadar In Your Pocket
PALACE GRISOGONO - VOVO (PALAČA
GRISOGONO - VOVO)
Another palace near St Simeon’s, on the corner of Ulica don
Ive Prodana and Ulica Ilije Smiljanića. The first floor originally
consisted of two connected Romanesque buildings. In the
16th Century the first floor was adapted in a combination of
Renaissance and Gothic styles. Again, the courtyard is well
worth a look.QD‑3.
RECTOR’S PALACE (KNEŽEVA PALAČA)
Together with the Deputy’s Palace it forms the Regency
complex. The oldest Romanesque elements date back to
the 13th Century, the courtyard is the oldest example of
Classicism in Zadar. The palace is now under reconstruction after damage in the 1990s war.QD‑3, Poljana Šime
QUEEN JELENA MADIJEVKA PARK (PERIVOJ
Vladimir Nazor Park is not the city’s oldest - that distinction
goes the park named after Queen Jelena Madijevka (Medici), built on top of the Grimaldi bastion by Five Wells Square.
Founded by Austrian commander Baron Franz Ludwig von
Welden in 1829, a passionate botanist and admirer of Dalmatian flora, it was the first public park in Dalmatia. To create
a garden on top of a military object was an unusual move,
but one Zadar is eternally grateful for.QD/E‑3.
VLADIMIR NAZOR PARK (PERIVOJ VLADIMIRA
Named since WWII after one of the most famous Croatian
writers, Zadar’s biggest park lies on top of the city’s biggest
fort, just east of the peninsula and the Land Gate. It was created in 1888-90 by an Austrian deputy, Dragutin Blažekovic,
born to a noble family in Osijek (east Croatia). Despite working for the Austrians, he was a supporter of Croatian rights,
and resigned when the Austrians refused to concede them.
He left something beautiful to the city - a richly planted
park with winding pathways, a pond, and an elevation giving great views of the sea. He died three years after it was
completed, and the park was named after him - against his
CHURCH COLLECTIONS FROM THE CHURCH OF
ST ELIJAH THE PROPHET
A collection of church art treasure dating between the 15h
and 19th century containing 30 icons, liturgical items, crucifixes, holy books, manuscripts, church clothing and an interesting collection of antimins printed on a canvas with an
etching technique.QB‑3, Trg S. Jankovića 3, tel. (+385-23)
25 10 14. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 20:00. Admission
SILVER AND GOLD OF THE CITY OF ZADAR
(ZLATO I SREBRO ZADRA)
If you come to Zadar you must see the Forum and St Donatus. If you only see one other thing, make it the Silver
and Gold of Zadar. It’s housed in the Benedictine convent
of St Mary’s, where it has been guarded by nuns since the
end of the Second World War. It forms the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art, one of the most important cultural repositories in Croatia. The city has enjoyed various
periods of flowering of arts and culture, and the work of
local gold and silversmiths (including Italians and Venetians
resident in the city) is absolutely stunning, spanning the
millennium between the 8th and 18th Centuries. The collection includes reliquaries for either entire saints or parts
of them (e.g. hands, arms and heads), crucifixes, paintings,
and vestements interwoven with gold and silver thread.
The collection is presented in intimate and atmospheric
Zadar Tourist Board Archives
46 Zadar In Your Pocket
Paths of Salt
surroundings, and is guaranteed to leave the most resolute
non-believer awestruck. On the ground floor there is also
a reconstruction of the former chapel of St Nediljica and
examples of Romanesque masonry.QB‑3, Trg opatice Čike
1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 96/(+385-23) 25 48 20. Open 10:00 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 10 - 25kn.
SILVER CASKET OF ST SIMEON (SREBRNA
RAKA SV. ŠIME)
In the church of the same name, a gilded silver casket on
the altar is raised on the outstretched arms of four bronze
angels. It contains the remains of the popular saint-protector of the city. Commissioned in 1381 by Elizabeth,
wife of Croat-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou, it’s one
of the finest examples of the work of Zadar’s silversmiths,
and inside and out shows in intricate detail scenes from
the saint’s life and the city’s history.
Locals say that a merchant who was shipping the body
of St Simeon from the Holy Land to Venice was caught
in a storm, and sought shelter here. He fell ill, and before
he died had the body buried, but told the nurses taking
care of him that they would find something interesting
in his documents. They found an inscription of the powers of the saint around his neck, and asked three local
priests to dig up the grave that night. Not yet knowing
the true nature of the occupant of the grave, visions appeared to them, and St Simeon has been revered in Zadar
ever since. The silver casket of St. Simeon can be viewed
daily and his remains will be shown to the public on his
patron day, October the 8th. Mass: 08:30, Sun 08:30 and
10:00.QD‑3, Trg Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17
05. Open May - October 08:30 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00.
Solana Nin Archives
As Croatia is positioned along the Adriatic Coast, it has developed
and maintained a significant role in the production of salt for
centuries on end, and when you take into consideration that
man first discovered salt 10,000 BCE, this natural mineral has
become part and parcel of life, has fed and nurtured civilisations,
and will continue to do so.
Looking back, salt has always been deeply rooted in human
culture: Roman soldiers received salt as a reward; Egyptians used
salt for mummification; the Greeks often exchanged slaves for
salt and used it in certain rituals, whilst the Japanese would
sprinkle salt around the house to drive away evil spirits. Salt became a treasured and highly sought after ingredient, it brought
colonial power; it led to wars and was one of the first sources
of trade particularly throughout the Middle Ages where it was
deemed ‘as precious as gold’.
So what is salt? Why is it so valuable? And how can we use it?
Firstly, salt is a natural mineral made up of white cube-shaped
crystals primarily composed of two elements, sodium and
chloride. It is translucent, colourless, and has a distinctive and
THE MONASTERY MUSEUM OF ST. MIHOVIL’S,
FRANCISCANS OF THE THIRD ORDER (MUZEJ
SAMOSTANA SV. MIHOVILA, FRANJEVACA
There is a museum at the monastery of St. Mihovil, Franciscans of the Third order (Muzej samostana sv. Mihovila,
franjevaca trećoredaca). The name itself is a mouthful,
but it’s another location which hoards and cares for a
spectacular religious collection. Among some of its most
noteworthy pieces is a 16th century depiction of the
Last Supper as well as several ornate statues.QD‑3, Mihe
Klaića 11, tel. (+385-23) 35 00 20/(+385-23) 35 00 21. Open
09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00 and by prior arrangement.
The majority of people think of salt as simply a white granular
food seasoning. In fact, only 6% of all salt manufacturing goes
into food. It is said that we use salt in more than 14,000 different ways from the making of products as varied as plastic,
paper, glass, aluminium, and rubber, to household bleach, soaps,
detergents, and dyes. We use salt for medicinal purposes, for
preserving food, cleaning and polishing, gardening, skin treatment, personal care, hygiene, and more!
THE SACRED ART COLLECTION OF ST FRANCIS’ MONASTERY (RIZNICA SAMOSTANA SV.
The monastery has a rich collection of religious art, highlights of which include a 12th century painted Romanesque crucifix and a 15th century polyptych from the island of Ugljan which is a fine example of Gothic painting
in Croatia. There are also ancient incunabula, documents,
liturgical vessels and more.QA/B‑3, Trg sv. Frane 1, tel.
(+385-23) 25 04 68, svetifrane.org. Open 09:00 - 18:00.
Admission 5 - 15kn.
Historically, in terms of salt in Croatia, the oldest known document comes from the year 542 CE and is linked to the former
Brijuni Saltworks. The Pag Saltworks were mentioned in the 9th
century and the year 1018 CE saw the beginning of a long struggle between the Croatian town of Zadar, and Venetians who
took much of Dalmatia under their control, and singlehandedly
decided on the fate of Croatian Saltpans.
Salt is essential for human life and the body cannot produce
neither sodium nor chloride itself, so we need to add a pinch
of salt into our daily diets. It helps maintain chemical balance in
our muscles and nervous system and it is said that 5 to 6 grams
of salt per day, for an average adult, goes a long way.
Foreign rule often meant survival with trade an essential element. Towns either flourished or perished; the latter due to lack
of produce causing unemployment, migration, and economic
instability as is witnessed in this day and age. Put simply, where
there is salt there is work, there is life, and there is survival. And
to survive people need to earn money, a salary; and the word
‘salary’happens to derive from the word‘salt’. Nowadays, some of
Croatia’s best saltworks are the bread and butter of a town, where
almost every family has a type of affiliation to the company,
some of which go back generations. Stories are told and traditions are kept. At present, a combination of old salt production
methods are still used and combined with modern technology.
And now there is tourism where saltworks are an attraction, a
sight to see and interest is aplenty. Some of Croatia’s exemplary
Solana Nin has shared a turbulent history; from Roman emperors who would use salt from Nin at feasts in juxtaposition to the
Venetians who shut down the Solana as it was competition to
their rival salt pans. Today, a Roman gate still stands as testimony
to the age of the salt pans and it is positive to note that salt
production is in full swing these days; 55 hectares is used and
is positioned between five Croatian national parks, indicating
the Eco Certified purity and unspoiled natural surroundings of
the area. The Solana also has a historical Museum and souvenir
shop where you can buy the highly sought ‘Salt Flower’.
Solana Ston dates back to Roman times, 2000 BCE. Its geographical position and fertile fields have always been abundant
in water and salt, and when under the rule of the Dubrovnik
Republic, its leadership built monumental walls in the 14th and
15th centuries to safeguard the cities of Ston and Mali Ston.
This entire area known as the ‘Pelješac peninsula’ was rebuilt
and protected from possible attacks in order to preserve the
maximum value of its salt pans which brought so much wealth
to the Republic’s economy.
Solana Pag dates as far back as 999 CE and produces two thirds
of Croatia’s total salt production. The shallow waters of the closed
Pag Bay brings perfect conditions for salt production, allowing
sea salt to be drained into small clay saltpans that set the landscape of the bay today. The Solana has a permanent exhibition
portraying the process of salt production (past and present),
ancient tools, a salt mill, transport, and film projections.
It is clear that nature has blessed the Adriatic Coast with so much
beauty, and these days guided tours are on offer which bring
to life the entire process of salt production, the history of each
seaside town, the tools and methods used, and the utter importance of maintaining life in such rural areas. Voluntary work is
possible where one can get a true feel for life on the salt pans; as
well as museums and galleries, souvenir shops, interactive presentations, summer camps and more. We recommend you create
some memories, with a pinch of salt to help spice up your stay!
Summer 2016 47
Nin Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Boris Kačan
NORTH OF ZADAR
Embark on a journey where the two small tourist places of
Nin and Zaton will surely amaze you with their anecdotes
of history, buildings, artefacts and natural surroundings.
Located a mere14 kilometres north of Zadar, these Adriatic
gems have their very own story to tell.
The region of Nin has been inhabited for over a staggering
three thousand years. It was initially founded by the Illyrians
who named the area Aenona. When the Romans gained
control, the town had flourished as it was an important harbour in the Eastern Adriatic Sea - the growth and development of import, export and migration attracted merchants
and other settlers to the area.
The beauty of Nin and neighbouring Zaton is twofold. Visitors are immersed in the historical treasures of the tourist
places whilst also fulfilling the true holiday experience of
picturesque beaches and breathtaking surroundings.
The historical town of Nin is situated in the middle of a shallow lagoon, whilst the historical part of the town is located
on a small island that has a 500 metre radius. Visitors can
enter the old town via one of two bridges which lead to the
blissfully preserved historical city gates. The arched gates
are the steppingstone to a sightseeing tour of the city walls
and the many valuable and historical monuments.
Some of the archeological highlights include two original
and reconstructed old Croatian ships ‘Condura Croatica’,
(11th Century) that were found at the entrance to the harbour, the ruins to the biggest Roman Temple (from the 1st
century) on this side of the Adriatic, the gothic chapel of
Saint Marcela and the pre-Romanic Church of the Holy
Cross (9th century) which is also known to be the smallest
cathedral in the world. The gold and silver of the town as
well as the historical treasures provide for a feast of culture.
48 Zadar In Your Pocket
The other attractions that Nin and Zaton boast are their
long sandy beaches which are perfect for that summer holiday. The blue sky waters are striking and the accommodation on offer includes hotels, nicely decorated apartments,
holiday villas and small idyllic camps.
A hidden advantage that entices many to this region is the
‘Nin Curing Mud Peloid’ which has been used for medical
purposes since the Roman times. Supervised medical personnel assist visitors and patients with therapy. The curing
mud effect can be seen through its medical, mechanical
and chemical effect. The therapy is performed in a cosy
natural environment and it includes bathing and swimming in warm sea water.
As you wander through Nin or Zaton, you’ll find that nothing much has changed over the years; ancient buildings
built from Dalmatian Stone still stand in their purest form.
What visitors cherish the most are these magnificent historical structures entwined with the natural ambience of
mother-nature that provides the perfect getaway.
NIN TOURIST BOARD
QTrg braće Radića 3, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 52 47/(+38523) 26 42 80, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.nin.hr. Open 08:00 20:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.
THE NIN SALT WORKS MUSEUM AND SHOP
Dating back from the Roman times, this lagoon is filled
with the essential elements that have seen the production
of salt continue according to traditional methods unto
this day. The museum offers displays, exhibits and multimedia and visitors can walk through the salt fields which
are packed with diverse flora and fauna (280 bird species).
QIlirska cesta 7, tel. (+385-23) 26 47 64/(+385-23) 26
40 21, email@example.com, www.solananin.hr. Open
08:00 - 20:00. Admission 35 - 65kn. A
Novigrad (literally “New Town”, somewhat of a misnomer),
a castle ruin perched on a hill above the town of the same
name, also has had a turbulent history. The Romans, and
before them, the Liburnians, built forts on the same spot.
Some of the walls date from Roman times, but Novigrad
has been modernized. It has several restaurants and cafes right on the water, offering nice views of the harbor.
Located 31 km east of Zadar via route 502, Novigrad has
been the front line in several conflicts. During dynasty wars
(1385-1387) in what is now Croatia, two woman of royalty,
Mary, the wife of Croatian-Hungarian King Sigismund Luxemberg, and her mother, Elizabeth, were murdered there.
During the Kandian Wars (1645-1669) it was an important
point of Venice’s defense against the Turks, who occupied
the town during 1646-47. When the Venetians retook the
town the castle was substantially destroyed. During the
more recent war of 1991-1995 after the break up of Yugoslavia, the Serbs also held the town for two years. There is
another spectacular view of the modern day town and the
sea from the ruins, which are accessible from several trails.
The easiest to find (again, no signs!) starts from the top of
some wide stairs that ascend from the east side of town.
Go right at the top of the stairs and then left after about 10
meters. It takes around 10 - 15 minutes to reach the castle.
This small tourist town is a popular holiday destination for
many visitors and is located between the two historic cities
of Nin (2 km) and Zadar (13 km). It is the perfect escape for
a family holiday and action packed vacation because of its
great climate, preserved nature, the abundant sports activities available (horse riding, water sports etc.) and for its rich
cultural and historical heritage. As summer nears, Zaton
springs to life and as history books would have it, remnants
of life and culture also existed in the area as far back as the
Bronze Age, over 4000 years ago. Throughout the Roman
period, Zaton was a port that was owned by Aenona (present day Nin) and the town started to gradually develop
towards the end of the 17th century after the Turks had
withdrawn from the area. One of Zaton’s landmark symbols and a frequent postcard motif is the Saint Nicholas
Church, which is situated on a small little hill in the middle
of a field. It has three circular bases and one rectangular
niche as well as the dome above its center. The church was
built with traces of the Romanic style from the end of the
11th and the beginning of the 12th century. A watchtower
was built on the dome during the Turkish wars. The 16th
century Kaštelin Tower was built as a defense structure
against potential invaders. The engraved Latin inscription
and coat of arms above the tower indicate that it was built
by Hannibal Cirysagus, in 1593. This is one of three towers
raised by the Venetians to defend Nin from Turkish raids.
The parish church in Zaton is sanctified to the Birth of the
Virgin Mary and was built in 1670, elongated in 1870, and
extended in the shape of the cross in 1969. The remains
of the Church of Saint Andrew is an extremely valuable
object from early Christian times (built in the 6th century)
which was, with various changes, used for cult purposes
until the 16th century. In addition to the historical buildings and artifacts that encompass the area, visitors who
are looking for somewhere to stay can find something to
suit everyone’s taste and budget. Zaton is filled with private
accommodation spots, well equipped camps and apartment hotels. The Zaton Holiday Resort is a famous tourist
village which is located in the bay; it is secluded from the
wind and surrounded by beautiful pine forest. This truly is
an ideal place for an unforgettable and peaceful family vacation whilst also making most of the numerous sporting
activities available including tennis, horse riding, cycling
and adventurous water activities. Beach facilities for the
disabled are also in place. The 1.5 km stretch of sandy and
ROCA - KUĆA DALMATINSKOG PRŠUTA
Tourism with a very natural touch! Welcome to this
farm which is family run and has a primary focus on
breeding pork meat (Yorkshire, Landrasse…) The entire set-up maintains the true spirit of an old stone
village in the Dalmatian hinterland where guests can
enjoy local products and authentic dishes in their tavern. Best to book but casual passers-by will always be
welcomed.QStankovci, tel. (+385) 091 583 40 43,
www.kucadalmatinskog-prsuta.hr/. Open 13:00 - 23:30. (70 400kn). 6N
Summer 2016 49
At Asseria, near Podgrađe, 6km east of Benkovac are
the remains of an urban settlement almost a kilometre long. Asseria was founded long before the Romans
set foot on these lands. It was a powerful centre of the
Liburnian tribe, whose territories stretched for miles
along the eastern Adriatic coast. When the Romans
later occupied these lands, Asseria grew to become a
municipality with a governing council. The town was
inhabited from the Bronze Age right up until the late
Roman period - a time span of at least a millennium.
Asseria’s blossoming as a town took place during the
1st and 2nd centuries AD, when it was one of the main
settlements of the Liburnians. The oldest remains in
Asseria which have been found to date are from the
5th century BC, and show us a town with walls 7m
high and 3.2m thick, built as part of the military belt
protecting the rich cultural life on the coast from barbarian invasion from inland. Built on the proscribed
lines of a Roman city, Asseria had a town square, a
water system, public baths and a necropolis where
cylindrical gravestones known as “cipus” have been
discovered. The most important Roman monument is
a triumphal arch, one of seven entrances into the city,
built in 113 AD in honour of Roman Emperor Trajan.
Annual archaeological digs at Asseria are revealing
more and more fascinating layers of history beneath.
Ceramics from the Greek period that predated the Roman settlement here have been unearthed, and also
from the age of the Liburnians before them. As you’ll
know if you’ve visited the Archaeological Museum in
Zadar or Nin, such relics of one of the oldest European
civilisations are not only awe-inspiring due to their
age, but also because of their simple beauty. Visiting
Asseria is a chance not only to see more of these, but
also to experience the scale of such an old settlement
in its entirety.
The Church of St Martin near Benkovac yielded a few
surprises some years ago, when an old storeroom was
opened up and found to contain more than 2000
silver pieces from the treasury of King Koloman (or
Kalman) of Hungary, part of the riches he used to finance his quest for the Croatian crown. (His quest was
successful - as part of a treaty, he was crowned King of
Croatia in 1102 in Biograd, the first time in history that
the Kingdoms of Croatia and Hungary were joined).
The golden era of Asseria came to an end when Avar
(and sometimes Slav) tribes swept across the plains
of Europe, and the Roman Empire crumbled. The last
mention of the settlement is from the 11th century.
pebbled shoreline is perfect for families with children. If
you are craving peace, an idyllic sunset, crystal clear waters
with a lush green backdrop, then Zaton is your answer to
that unforgettable dream getaway.
50 Zadar In Your Pocket
ZATON HOLIDAY RESORT
QDražnikova 76t, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 80,
ZATON TOURIST BOARD
QZadarska cesta 39a, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 54
61, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.zaton-zd.hr. Open 07:00 21:00.
SOUTH OF ZADAR
South of Zadar and following the coastal road you will find
yourself in Biograd and municipalities like Pakoštane, where
extends several kilometres of coastline under the Vrana lake
in its present lively and romantic Riviera.
BIOGRAD NA MORU
The small but lively town of Biograd was once an important political centre of the Croatian state and the seat
of kings. Croatia’s crowned heads of the Middle Ages
were peripatetic - travelling throughout their territories
between their power bases - often smaller towns, since
larger cities such as Zadar functioned almost as individual
states. Biograd was one of these royal towns, as was Nin.
One of the most important moments in Biograd’s history
was the coronation of Koloman as Croat-Hungarian king in
1102 - the first time that the states of Croatia and Hungary
were joined under a single crowned head - this time, by
You can still see evidence of this proud yesteryear in Biograd’s pleasant old centre: an obelisk bearing the date
925, the date of the coronation of Tomislav, the first true
Croatian king and a figure with almost mythical status. It
was he who united Pannonia and Dalmatia into a single
Croatian state and built the country into a military power
rivalling Venice. The 11th century Basilica of St John was
one of the few buildings which escaped after the Venetians attacked Biograd in 1125. There is an early Romanesque Church of St Anthony (13th century), the Church
of St Rocco (16th century), and the imposing Church
of St Anastasia (Sveta Stošija) built in 1761, with a fine
clock tower, a decorative well in front and baroque altars
inside. Fans of history should visit the Homeland Museum, which has archaeological, ethnographic and art collections, and presents a fascinating picture of the town’s
colourful and turbulent past. It’s at Obala kralja Petra
Krešimira IV 20, tel. (+385-23) 38 37 21, www.muzejbiograd.com. Open 07:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00
- 12:00, 19:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10kn.
Biograd is, however, far more than a destination for history
nuts. The old centre is picturesquely laid out on a peninsula with a view over Pašman Island, which you can reach
by the ferry which leaves from the town quay. Pleasant
seaside promenades are lined with cafes and palms, and
are attractively planted with lawns and flowerbeds. To the
east of the centre is a large pine forest, within which you
can find the tennis centre. The pebbly Blue Flag Dražica
beach is just a ten minute walk from the old town. Voted
one of Croatia’s best beaches, it’s isolated from traffic
but has a car park. You can take part in watersports, and
there’s an aquagun and a host of other amenities. The
pinewoods extend further, providing a healthy and scented environment with a number of campsites, hotels and
apartment complexes. A coast path through them leads
you past more beaches. Some, such as Soline, are shallow and partly sandy, so particularly suitable for children.
Be aware that some of the more secluded beaches along
the coastline here are “clothing optional”, while at Crvena
Luka you’ll find a proper FKK naturist beach. Crvena Luka
is a deep bay with a holiday village behind.
Apart from the aforementioned tennis centre, Biograd is
well equipped with diving centres, and is a gentle place
to learn to windsurf. You’ll also find many opportunities
to try your hand at waterskiing. Another activity we can
recommend is a bike route which takes you from Kumenat (a neighbourhood just east of the centre) through Crvena Luka, Pakoštane (a nearby resort) and to Lake Vrana
(Vransko jezero). This lake, just south of Biograd, provided
the water supply for Zadar since Roman times, and is a
pristine Nature Park, with a rich stock of birds and aquatic
life. As such, it’s a mecca for fishing and birdwatching. The
land there is very flat, so it’s perfect terrain for biking it’s encircled by a 30km bike trail, which gets more hilly
and interesting to the north of the lake. There’s a peaceful
campsite which has a great fish restaurant.
It’s a nice break from the hubbub of the coast. Other trips
you can take are a boat to the islet of Saint Katherine,
just a hop away from Biograd’s shores. There’s an old lighthouse there and it’s great for bathing. Ask your host if they
can arrange for a day trip for you. And a highlight of the
entire Zadar region must surely be the Kornati archipelago lying scattered beyond the island of Pašman. Kornati
is one of the most spectacular sights in Croatia, and dare
we say, Europe.
BIOGRAD N/M TOURIST BOARD
Information on activities, trips and maps of the area.QTrg
hrvatskih velikana 2, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 23/(+385-23)
38 53 82, email@example.com, www.tzg-biograd.hr.
Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.
VRANSKO JEZERO NATURE PARK
QKralja Petra Svačića 2, Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 31
81, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.vransko-jezero.
hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The sched‑
uled working hours refer to Park Management only;
entry to the Park leading to Lake Vransko and its sur‑
roundings is open to visitors 08:00 - 20:00 which in‑
cludes weekends. Entrance 10 - 20kn.
Don’t make the mistake of missing some of these great
places in Zadar’s surrounding areas. Many of them are
somewhat neglected by guide books, and therefore all
the more delightful to discover.
Summer 2016 51
Photo by Aleksandar Gospić
Although it’s easily accessible from Zadar by boat, Croatia’s
“Long Island” is rather far out to sea, and so remains one of
those few places where you can enjoy tranquillity even in
high season. Its capital, Sali, is a simple, historic and attractive fishing town with a summer cultural festival running
from mid-July to mid-August. The climax of this is a festival
called Saljski užanci - three days of music, fireworks, fresh
grilled fish, drinking, dancing, donkey racing and parades
in traditional local costume in a friendly atmosphere. The
festivites sometimes get rather wild and climax in revellers leaping into the sea in full national costume! Another
unique element is the strange and haunting folk music of
the island, played on old irons filled with stones, and on
enormous horns poached from some poor beast. If that all
sounds too hectic, head for the smaller village of Božava.
The exceptionally clean sea makes it a haven for divers.
Nearby is a white sand beach called Saharun. There are
other sandy beaches in this area on the north tip of the
island. Treat yourself and hire a boat and explore to your
heart’s content - it’s the best way to explore any island.
Beaches away from settlements and people are, of course,
clothing-optional zones. A trip to the Telaščica Nature
Park is an unmissable part of a visit to Dugi Otok - it’s within biking distance from Sali. Telašćica Bay is a 10km deep
inlet dotted with bays, islets and cliffs. A spectacular saltwater lake lies next to the bay - the water is warm and said to be
curative, and you can swim there. Legends abound about hidden treasure and ancient inhabitants with five horns on their
heads. More visible treasure is the wildlife that abounds there,
from pine to fig to olive to moufflon (a kind of wild sheep).
Although the park is not commercialised, there are facilities for
tourists providing fresh fish and local wine. Paradise indeed.
DUGI OTOK TOURIST BOARD
QObala Petra Lorinija bb, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 94, email@example.com, www.dugiotok.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00,
Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 21:00.
Biograd N/M Tourist Board Archives
Starigrad Tourist Board Archives
TELAŠĆICA NATURE PARK
QSali IV 2, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 96/(+385-23) 37 73 93,
firstname.lastname@example.org, www.telascica.hr. Information office
in Sali open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Park entry tickets
and permits are also issued by Park Rangers who are avail‑
able and on duty 00:00 -24:00 inside park premises. Entrance
ticket cost 200 - 1400kn depending on the size of the boat.
This is one for those of you with jangled nerves - a green, lowlying island with only two picturesque villages: Veli and Mali
Iž. Veli Iž’s Hotel Korinjak serves only vegetarian food, and offers
personal development programs including yoga and massage.
In the town, you can visit a shop and gallery displaying terracotta pots that have been made here in the same way since
Neolithic times. Islanders used to take it to Zadar market every
day, and it was traded along the whole Dalmatian coastline.
The streets are too narrow for cars, but luckily the locals are
52 Zadar In Your Pocket
renowned for being a jolly and friendly lot, and will come
to your aid with trolleys for your luggage. The town’s festival
takes place over 3 days in August, and showcases a local oddity, water basketball. Mali Iž has lovely beaches. The islanders
live from fishing, olives, making great wine and a special rakija
made with Japanese herbs that they say is good for the heart.
If you’re really nice to them, they might take you to the islet
of Rutnjak, great for swimming, fishing and diving. If not, you
can always swim there.
ZADAR TOURIST BOARD OFFICE
QVeli Iž, tel. (+385-23) 27 70 21. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sat,
Sun 08:00 - 13:00.
IST & MOLAT
Molat is a relative giant of the Zadar archipelago, having 3 count ‘em! - attractive little hamlets. OK, we got a bit carried
away - they are very, very small. With only one ferry a day,
Molat really is far from the madding crowd. There are only
a handful of restaurants and shops on the island. Molat is
covered by low-lying shrubs feeding a few goats and sheep.
It’s great to spend the day exploring the pretty coastline by
boat. Some of the best beaches are around Brgulje, where
the ferry docks. Neighbouring Ist is tiny, measuring under
10km2. It has sandy beaches, vineyards and olive groves, and
is good for sailing, fishing and total relaxation, absolutely uncommercialised.
Zadar’s surroundings are ideal for a spot of hiking and
biking even in high summer. The Ravni Kotari plains in
the hinterland offer gentle terrain for a spot of touring.
One of the oldest cycling route is between Zadar and
Benkovac, where you can experience local hospitality
in the surrounding villages and visit the ancient ruins
of Asseria. The Nature Park and lake Vransko Jezero offer gentle terrain, though some routes pass canyons
and higher spots where you can enjoy great views. The
islands of Ugljan and Pašman have a particularly welldeveloped tradition of active tourism, and a number
of routes cater both for those wanting a gentle sightseeing tour allowing you to see some of the islands’
finest churches and monasteries, and for thrill-seekers
demanding more challenging terrain. Pag island is excellent for intermediate cyclists, as it’s not too mountainous and there’s plenty to see and do. The best kicks
and the most spectacular scenery are to be found in
the Paklenica National Park. For more info call into the
Zadar County Tourist Office, Sv. Leopolda B. Mandića
1, Zadar tel. (+385-23) 31 53 16, www.zadar.hr.
Summer 2016 53
You can reach Pašman either by crossing the road bridge
from Ugljan, or by taking the ferry from Biograd to Tkon, the
island’s main settlement. Like Ugljan, it’s fairly low-lying and
fertile, with olive groves and vineyards. There are a couple
of sand beaches at Kraj, a pleasant hamlet with a wonderfully preserved Franciscan Monastery, St Dominius, dating back to the 14th century. Tkon also has a 12th century
Romanesque Benedictine convent, sited on Ćokovac hill,
overlooking the town. In general, Pašman consists of peaceful
hamlets and coves to explore on land or by boat, to relax and
enjoy healthy local produce, or even stay in an eco-cottage. If
you fancy a little café society, head to Ždrelac, an idyllic little
place where you’ll find a great lounge bar, also fine for morning coffee. 2km from Tkon, there’s the Sovinje Naturist Camp
(http://fkksovinje.hr), which has lovely clean sandy beaches.
PAŠMAN TOURIST BOARD
QPašman, tel. (+385-23) 26 01 55, email@example.com, www.
pasman.hr. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 18:30 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 11:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 11:00.
TKON TOURIST BOARD
QMulina 6, Tkon, tel. (+385-23) 28 52 13, info@tzo-tkon.
hr, www.tzo-tkon.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 12:00.
Pag is one of the most unusual Adriatic islands. Parts of it
are extremely rocky and devoid of vegetation, and look
like the moon. Other parts are reminiscent of Spaghetti
Westerns, with desert-like scenery and the odd spiky cactus. It’s not what you’d normally expect from the Mediterranean. But that’s not necessarily a bad thing. There
are many other weird and wonderful things about Pag.
It’s oddly squid-like in shape, with the “tentacles” forming
lagoons. The sea is very calm here and the water has an
exceptionally high salt content. There have been saltpans
here for centuries: you can still buy Pag salt normally in
any supermarket. It’s completely natural and has a high
The salty winds mean that on many parts of the island,
rather little vegetation survives except scrub and herbs, so
sheep farming is the main agricultural activity. These salty
herbs lend a special flavour to the animals’ meat and milk,
which makes great cheese. Pag cheese is highly valued it’s one of Croatia’s most famous export products. A good
Pag cheese is mature, strong tasting and hard, a little like
Parmesan. The real Pag cheese is expensive, so don’t be
surprised if cheaper offerings disappoint. We recommend
being adventurous and trying to get hold of some home
made stuff on the island itself. Ask your hosts to recommend someone, or look out for signs saying “Paški sir”. Pag
island lamb is also regarded as a delicacy - do try it if you
have the chance.
The island’s other renowned cottage industry is lace
making. Since, once upon a time, there was nothing
54 Zadar In Your Pocket
better for the women of Pag to do than keep an eye on
a few sheep, watch salt dry and wait for hubby to come
home with the day’s catch, they kept idle thumbs at bay
by lace-making. Over the centuries they evolved a style so
ethereal that it is considered one of Croatia’s most highly
prized products. Hours of work goes into a tiny piece, so it
is quite expensive - expect to pay from 200kn for a small
piece direct from the maker, or around 400kn for a mounted example from a Zadar gallery (try the Lik gallery, see
“Shopping”). But it is a beautiful memento of your holiday,
and your purchase supports a vital cottage industry.
In the mid 15th century, the Venetians commissioned
Juraj Dalmatinac, Dalmatia’s most famous architect,
to design the island capital, Pag town. It has a planned
symmetrical layout, with a modest, drowsy feel. Walking through the streets, you intimately feel the life that
goes on inside the little cottages, The town’s most striking
church, St Mary’s, was also designed by Dalmatinac. He
combined a Romanesque Dalmatian spirit with Renaissance and Gothic elements to create a striking edifice.
The town has a few other interesting churches and palaces, wonderfully clean pebble beaches and several good
In the last few years, Pag has also built the reputation as
Croatia’s party island, and the place where it all happens
is the town of Novalja. Novalja, though not the capital,
is the island’s most populous settlement, and has most
of its facilities such as clinics and schools. A couple of
kilometres from town is an excellent Blue Flag beach,
Zrće, where a number of bars and clubs, including coastal
versions of some of Zagreb’s most famous names, have
opened to create Croatia’s answer to Ibiza. There are restaurants, ice cream parlours, pools and more. It’s wildly
popular. Because of that, some might find it a bit too noisy
and commercialised in high season. But never fear, Pag
has the longest coastline of all Croatian islands (270km),
and there are many places where you can escape the
crowds. Expect lunar landscapes, white pebbles, crystal
clear water and, on the north side of the island, spectacular views over the Velebit peaks on the mainland. One of
our favourites is the Ručica beach near Metajna - turn left
at the wooden sign before the village, and follow the road
to the end. You’ll need to walk the last bit. It’s wonderful
to watch the sun go down, turning the rocks pink as you
sit on pristine white pebbles by the crystalline, lagooncalm sea.
PAG TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE
QVela ulica 18, Pag, tel. (+385-23) 61 12 86, tic@tzgpag.
hr, www.tzgpag.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00.
SILBA, OLIB & PREMUDA
These small green islands with one village apiece, each
necklaced by sparkling-clean beaches, are well off the
usual tourist repertoire but easily accessible by boat from
Zadar (see “Getting around”).
Silba, despite having no cars, is the liveliest of the three,
and is favoured by artists so has a rather bohemian atmoszadar.inyourpocket.com
Zadar is far from being just a walk-round museum of cultural treasures and churches. It also stands in the middle of
a spectacularly unspoiled natural landscape, and is ideally
suited to an active holiday of peddling, climbing, sailing,
These are packages which offer activities for adults (18+)
with an element of thrill and danger (scuba diving, rock
climbing, wind surfing,…)
In the mountains just east of Zadar is the beautiful greenblue river Zrmanja, with rushing torrents, small waterfalls
and canyons making for a spectacular, exciting and refreshing ride. They also organise rafting, kayaking and canoeing
expeditions.QF‑4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23)
33 77 60, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.boratours.hr. Open
08:00 - 20:00, Sun 15:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat. N
Sukošan - Photo by Boris Kačan
phere. The nightlife there is relaxed with great live music,
including jazz (of course), and a disco. Café Mik, by the
church, plays jazz (sometimes live sessions in the evenings), and has a large space for art displays inside. Walk
to the lovely gravelly beaches with agaves accompanying your way, learn to windsurf, rent a boat or (if you’re
energetic enough) have a game of tennis, basketball or
volleyball. Although only 15km2, Silba has 6 lovely small
churches, some of them dating back to the 17th century.
Sadly, they are not in a great state of repar. The island has
an unusual monument - a 30m high tower (known as the
Toreta) built by one of the island’s sea captains so that
his wife could look out to sea and know when he would
return (and know when to get his dinner ready?). Some
people are a bit less cynical than us and see it as a symbol
Olib and Premuda are rather more sleepy. Like most
Dalmatian islands, sandy Olib has no water sources, but
unusually it has an undersea pipeline bringing Velebit’s
renowned pure water to the island. It also has many
pheasants and rabbits, which people run after with pop
guns. Some say Olib’s cheese is better than the more famous one made on Pag, and the local wine and olive oil
are also great stuff. Olib has a lovely little fort, the remains
of a monastery, and five churches including the Church
of the Assumption of Mary, where you can see a document written in the Glagolitic script - the alphabet in
which Croatian was first written.
Premuda is a superb place for diving enthusiasts - it
has an underwater cavern known as The Cathedral to
explore, and the wreckage of a ship, the St Istvan. Apart
from that, expect nothing other than true, idyllic island
life: stone houses, oleanders and bougainvilleas, olives
and figs and clean, clean shingle beaches. The perfect
SILBA TOURIST BOARD
QSilba, tel. (+385-23) 37 00 10, email@example.com, www.
tzsilba.hr. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00.
56 Zadar In Your Pocket
That tower you see on the pinnacle on the island opposite when
you look from Zadar is St Michael’s Church, an easy hike from the
village of Preko on the island of Ugljan. The island’s name comes
from the Croatian word ulje, meaning oil - olive oil production
used to be one of the main activities here. The gentle slopes
facing Zadar are fertile, and there’s a pleasant agricultural feel
away from the coastal settlements - you’ll see ladies walking
along the road carrying the day’s harvest.
Kukljica is the main tourist development on Ugljan, and is a
great starting point for hiking and biking, a great way to see
the numerous historical sites on the island. There are a number
of routes outlined by the Tourist Board - call into their office
or check out the website below. A 15 minute walk takes you
to the other side of the island where you come to excellent
beaches at Sabuša and Jelenica, some of which are sandy.
The nearby cove of Kostanj also has a lovely shallow beach
and the 13th century Romanesque Church of St Jerome (Sv.
Jerolim) is nearby. Close to Kukljica is the Zelena Punta (Green
Cape) peninsula, a tourist settlement where you’ll find a fantastic
beach formed of a promenade with deep shade from pine trees,
super-clean water and shingle and sand in the water. The islet
of Ošljak is also popular for bathing - two Jadrolinija ferries call
here per day, taking you to Zadar or Preko. On August 5, Kukljica
celebrates the festival of Our Lady of the Snows - apparently it snowed once here in August - and everybody complains
about how bad the weather is these days! A convoy of fishing
boats travels ceremoniously to a nearby church. The port of Kali
also celebrates this occasion - the townspeople are famous for
being great fishermen, and oddly enough, 90 percent of them
went to Panama and still can be seen fishing there to this day.
KUKLJICA TOURIST BOARD
QKukljica ulica II 87, tel. (+385-23) 37 32 76, info@kukljica.
hr, www.kukljica.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00.
PREKO TOURIST BOARD
QMagazin 8, Preko, tel. (+385-23) 28 61 08, firstname.lastname@example.org,
www.preko.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.
Bungee jumping - heart pumping, thrill seeking jumps that
make for life-long memories. The lads on the Maslenica
Bridge are waiting for you; it’s like Point Break on altitude.
QMaslenica Bridge, tel. (+385) 098 53 22 53, info@
izazov-tours.hr, www.izazov-tours.hr. Open by prior ar‑
rangement. July - August 31 Open 14:00 - 20:00.
Want a taste of adrenaline? Then head to the Ždrijac
Beach, next to Nin. There you’ll find a school for kitesurfing and windsurfing, and you can even rent these along
stand up paddle boards. Drop in and be prepared to be
bloooooown away!QŽdrijac Beach, Nin, tel. (+385-) 098
912 98 18, email@example.com, www.surfmania.hr. Open
12:00 - 18:00, depending on weather conditions.
QIvane B. Mažuranić 4, Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 54
35/(+385-) 098 193 53 30, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.
albamaris.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. N
QM‑3, Zaton Holiday Resort, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-) 098
68 69 99/(+385-) 098 27 38 31, email@example.com,
www.scubaadriatic.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. N
QN‑2, Dubrovačka 38, tel. (+385-23) 21 48 48/(+385-)
099 530 04 78, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.zadarsub.
hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. N
QMarina Dalmacija, Bibinje - Sukošan, tel. (+385-) 091
252 80 21, email@example.com, www.divingzlatnaluka.net. Open 10:00 - 18:00. N
Photo by Višnja Arambašić
These agencies offer one-day trips and longer trips to suit
your needs (Kornati excursion, Plitvice…)
Plitvice, Krka, Kornati trips.QD‑2, Nova vrata bb, tel.
(+385-23) 21 29 19, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.
aquariuszadar.com. Open 07:30 - 22:00. July, August
Open 07:30 - 24:00. A
TERRA SAILING TRIPS
Adventure enthusiasts can pick and choose from the
amount of available packages on offer.QG‑3, Matije
Gupca 2a, tel. (+385-23) 33 72 94, info@sailingcroatia.
hr, www.sailingcroatia.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00.
Excursions, tours, transfers, active holidays, accommodations...QTrg hrvatskih velikana 1, Biograd, tel. (+385-23)
38 64 79, email@example.com, www.val-tours.hr. Open
08:00 - 22:00.
CEROVAC CAVES (CEROVAČKE ŠPILJE, VELEBIT
Declared as a geo-morphological natural monument, the
Cerovac Caves are one of the most famous caves in Croatia.
The entire complex consists of three caves (Upper, Lower
and Central) which run approx. 7km in length. Also, they
are one of the largest cave bear findings in Croatia which
explains the given names such as the Bear Trench and Bear
Hall.Qtel. (+385-) 099 814 47 24, firstname.lastname@example.org,
www.pp-velebit.hr. Guided visits and prices depend
on the time of year, so please visit www.pp-velebit.hr.
Summer 2016 57
PAKLENICA NATIONAL PARK
The Paklenica National Park is an excellent choice for
climbers. Stunning karst landscapes, rich flora and fauna and innumerable torrents combine to create a little
piece of heaven. Add to that some challenging climbs on
smooth rock and days bathed in brilliant sunshine overlooking the sea, and you’re sold (or at least we are). There
is a 40km mountaineering trail, which takes about 2 days
to travel. See peaks over 1600m high, steep-sided canyons, creeks with pools and waterfalls and water so clean
you can drink it - it tastes great. Famous peak Anića Kuk
has a challenging smooth 400m high cliff which attracts
the greatest number of climbers.
One of the most beautiful mountain refuges is Vlaški
Grad at 1260m. There are a great number of routes for
hikers, climbers and mountain bikers. The Paklenica National Park authorities can provide you with full lists. Also
check out www.summitpost.org for excellent pictures,
information and advice.QDr. Franje Tuđmana 14a,
Starigrad - Paklenica, tel. (+385-23) 36 92 02/(+385-23)
36 91 55, email@example.com, www.paklenica.
hr. Open 06:30 - 20:30. 30 - 150kn.
Organised activities for both kids and adults, day trips to
devour, and safe sporting activities (i.e. horse riding, kayaking…)
ADVENTURE PARK ZADAR
Adventure and fun for everyone with paintball, zipline
and kids’ playground.QKožinska cesta 108, Kožino,
tel. (+385-) 098 85 44 31, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.
adventure-park.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. N
KONJIČKI CENTAR LIBERTAS
Located within the Zaton Resort, trail riding is offered
which is customised to the varying degrees of knowledge and skills of participants. The littlies are never
forgotten with pony rides available too. Take the amazing Zaton ‘beach tour’ on horseback. Do note, for those
who are not staying at the resort but wish to go horseriding, you will need to pay a 150kn entry fee to enter
the resort itself and when you get to the Libertas Horse
Centre, you will receive a refund voucher where you will
get your money back at the resort entry.QZaton Holi‑
day Resort, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-) 098 47 22 27, info@
hr. Open 07:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 22:00.
KONJIČKI KLUB MAXIMUS
There is no horsing around here; it’s all first class recreational riding. Novices are welcomed as they offer riding school training, trail riding, hiking on horseback,
and riding for children at Bili Brig. Saddle up and giddy
up!QN‑1, Ante Rudana 63, Bili Brig, tel. (+385-) 095
522 25 12. Open by prior arrangement.
58 Zadar In Your Pocket
Lots of fun for every family member; pools, slides and
crazy rides!QHoteli Solaris 86, Šibenik, www.solaris.hr.
Open 09:00 - 20:00.
VELEBIT PHOTO SAFARI
Adventure on four wheels with this jeep trip through the
Velebit Mountains and the canyon of the Zrmanja River.
It’s an all day trip which lasts for 8 hours with plenty of
stop offs for photos and taking in the serene beauty of the
surroundings. Food and drinks are included in the package but you need to book exclusively via telephone.Qtel.
(+385) 098 27 28 78, email@example.com, www.
If you’re in the heart of Zadar and dying for a swim, you
can head to the Riva, the promenade on the south side
of the Old Town, it’s perfectly clean for swimming. The traditional town beach is, however, at Kolovare, east of the
Old Town. Although the water is clean, unfortunately the
pebble beach is not as attractive as it could be if someone
would only pick up the pieces of brick and assorted rubble
that have somehow found their way there. Kolovare beach
does have good facilities including cafes and restaurants,
and is a good place to hang out, day or night. There are
more secluded bathing spots all the way to the headland
in the east.
Borik is a very popular place to bathe, and this year will
be much improved after extensive investment. It’s good
for kids, as the bay is shallow with a sandy bottom, while
the beach has had new shingle added this spring. The new
aqua park is sure to be a big hit with kids. There are plenty
of places for refreshments, watersports, beach games as
well as toilets, showers and changing cubicles. The further
west you walk from Borik, the quieter it gets. Diklo still has
plenty of bars and restaurants, while Kožino is a refined
area of villas.
If you have wheels, north of Zadar you choose either the
crystal, pine-fringed waters at Petrčane, or sandy bays at
Zaton, Nin and Privlaka. Zaton is particularly good for
active types and families with children, as the holiday settlement has tons of sports and games going on, the beach
is huge and the water is shallow. For those interested in culture, Nin is one of Croatia’s most ancient settlements and
there are curative mud baths nearby. But definitely the best
bathing awaits you on the islands. Closest is the island of
Ošljak. One ferry a day stops there on the way to Preko on
Ugljan (at 11:00) and picks you up at 18:00. But the further
you venture, the better it gets. All the islands we feature in
Zadar Surroundings have their own little pieces of heaven.
Hire a boat, and pick yours! And once you get to the quieter
islands, of course, you can find secluded places where you
can happily sun yourself au naturel, undisturbed.
Great and affordable artwork with prices ranging from 5 to
3D PRINT BUST OF HERCULES
It is believed that whilst under Roman rule, Hercules was
most likely patron to the city of Zadar. The Archaeological
Museum souvenir shop (Trg opatice Čike 1) honours the
past and has a 3D bust of the almighty hero with a Nemean
Lion knotted around his neck. His heroic deeds haven’t been
forgotten with this authentic souvenir or furniture item.
WINE GLASSES FROM THE MUSEUM OF ANCIENT GLASS
If you fancy a drop of wine then it needs to be served in a
fine wine glass, and that you can get at the museum souvenir shop (Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1) where you can find
beautiful, unique wine glasses made purely through the free
glass blowing technique or blowing into a mould. Broken
or recycled glass is reused through their production process
and comes out 100% pure glass.
PAINTINGS BY SILVIJANA DRAŽOVIĆ
Being a local artist, Dražović is known for her distinctive
artwork of bright and cheerful colors that can cheer up any
person or empty space. Many of her motives are to do with
the sea and other thematic topics. Take a sneak peak of her
finest works at the Bambola Gallery (Ul.plemića Borelli 7).
Paintings and postcards by well-known local artist Zoran
Debelić. Dalmatian themes.QC‑3, Vladimira Papafave
1, tel. (+385-23) 31 78 01/(+385-) 091 545 19 50, zoran.
firstname.lastname@example.org, www.anima.hr. Open 09:00 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
THE CHEST OF ST. SIMEON
One of the most valuable works of medieval art in Croatia is
the Chest of St. Simeon which was built in 1380; it stands in
the sanctuary of the city church named after him and carries his remains. He is the city’s beloved patron saint, much
loved by its townsfolk. The Laudato Gallery produces and
sells original copies of the chest as a symbol and souvenir of
Zadar by using poured terracotta. Don Ive Prodana 11 is the
address of the Gallery.
Gifts and stationery aimed at younger tastes.QC‑3, Ul.
plemića Borelli 7, tel. (+385-23) 31 86 10. Open 09:00 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. A
THE GOLD AND SILVER OF ZADAR MONOGRAPH
The souvenir shop in the Benedictine monastery (Trg opatice Čike 1) contains a monograph of the treasury art of its
very own permanent exhibition of Church artworks better
known as‘The Gold and Silver of Zadar’. It presents pictures
and descriptions of all 250 items of this beautiful and rich
collection of religious objects made between the 8th and
As you stroll towards ‘Four kantuna’ at the top of Klaićeva
Street, you will hardly notice this small gallery which bares
the popular name buža (locally defined as a ‘hole’). Be sure
to drop by this small family owned gallery run by academic
painters Nedeljko Šuvar and Duje Šuvar.QD‑3, Mihovila
Klaića 4. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. N
Gallery of sacred art and Croatian souvenirs.QD‑3, Don Ive
Prodana 11, tel. (+385-23) 30 07 49/(+385-) 091 589 84 14,
email@example.com, www.laudato.hr. Open 09:00 13:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A
Summer 2016 59
ers of wine, or connoisseurs of the fine drop will find Atrox vina
heaven on earth.QD‑1, J.J.Strosmayera 14, tel. (+385-23)
30 54 26, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.atrox-zadar.hr. Open
09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
A wine warehouse with a good selection of gourmet
products and gifts.QC‑3, Kraljskog Dalmatina 7, tel.
(+385-23) 25 02 46, email@example.com. Open 09:00
- 21:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 23:00. A
The Borovo Company is the
best-known shoe manufacturer in
Croatia, having the longest tradition, heritage and love towards
shoes. Founded in 1931, with
headquarters located in Vukovar,
during the past 85 years, Borovo
has built its identity not only in
Croatia but in the entire region by
producing stylish, urban, casual
and sports footwear.
Materials used in production
are all of the natural origins such
as leather, 100% cotton canvas
and natural rubber made from
A goodie foodie gastro store with Croatian and local products particularly from Dalmatia. Delicacies also include
fine wines, homemade cosmetics and much more, all of
which make for a good and tasty souvenir.QC‑3, Vladi‑
mira Papafave 1, tel. (+385-) 091 358 17 71. Open 09:00
- 21:00. July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 23:00. A
Archaeological Museum Archives
MADE IN CROATIA
Croatia’s largest shoe producer which manufactures and exports new collections as well as redesigned classics such as
the already popular Startas which happens to be celebrating
its 40th anniversary. There is Boromina, Borosana, My Ballerinas and more, so it’s best to hop into a store for a truly 100%
authentic Croatian souvenir or gift…QC‑3, Široka ulica bb,
tel. (+385-23) 25 13 37, www.borovo.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00,
Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Feel like shopping! Then keep an eye out for this Croatian
manufacturer of quality clothing products traditionally known
for conventional and classical underwear. Today, the company
also has a clothing line aimed at a younger audience following
the latest trends in design. Another range is geared towards
the Hajduk Split Football Club, with clothing merchandise also
available.QC‑3, Borelli 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 69 57, galeb@galeb.
hr, www.galeb.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A
High quality accessories from another Croatian manufacturer
of shoes and handbags, as well as belts, scarves, wallets and
more! With 30 years under their belt, their products are not
only trendy in keeping up with the times but valued.QC‑3,
Široka ulica 10, tel. (+385-23) 24 04 45, webshop@guliver.
hr, www.guliver.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00.
A well-stocked store with imported and Croatian wines from
all regions, as well as sparkling wines and champagnes! The
company occasionally organises the promotion of local wines
in collaboration with local hotels or restaurants. So deep think60 Zadar In Your Pocket
Established in 1919 and four generations later the tradition
continues! This family prides itself on the typical Dalmatian delicacies they have mastered including various types
of homemade sausages, prosciutto, pancetta and other
meat products. Smok’n meat is their treat!QC‑2, Pod be‑
demom 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 15 93. Open 07:00 - 13:00,
Sun 07:00 - 11:00. JA
Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag.
It produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised
cheese.Also at Hrvoja V. Hrvatinčića 5 (City Market) tel.
70 07 30, Open Mon - Sat 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00.
QN‑5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria), tel. (+385-23) 31 33
96, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.gligora.com. Open 07:00 14:00, Mon, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Purveyors of alcoholic and non-alcoholic renditions of the
Maraschino cherry; plus a selection of other potions to
soften your vocal chords and your general view of humanity. Other groceries available too.QB‑3, Mate Karamana 3,
tel. (+385-) 099 755 91 61, www.maraska.hr. Open 08:00
- 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
A company producing its own high-quality olive oil, also
selling wines and juices.QN‑5, Ljudevita Posavskog 35.
Open 07:00 - 14:30, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N
Authentic prosciutto, bacon and other traditional meat products that are produced and sold from their very own production facility. In addition, they also offer cheese, wine, olive oil,
salted anchovies, and other delicacies from local producers.
It’s a Dalmatian sensation!QL‑4, J.J.Strossmayera 15, tel.
(+385-) 091 413 72 14, email@example.com, www.
dalmatinski-prsut.com. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00,
Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Startas Pink unicorn
has been featured in
fashion magazine Vogue.
BOROVO STORE IN ZADAR
Široka ulica BB
caoutchouc that is also produced
in the factory. Following the idea
of unique quality shoes, Borovo
designers create simple yet modern cozy footwear that is crafted
with special care and love by at
least 20 caring hands.
The Big Blue
Brands like Startas, Borosana,
Boromina, Rubber, My Ballerinas and
The Big Blue are modern and stylish
shoes for different generations and
Startas sneakers are entirely
handmade, vegan, with coolest
ANCIENT GLASS MUSEUM’S SHOP
Some say ‘a glass a day keeps the doctor away’, and you
can pick and choose from a wide selection of authentic
drinking glasses and other souvenirs made of glass including a wonderful necklace made by Antonija Gospić.QD‑2,
Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 31,
firstname.lastname@example.org, www.mas-zadar.hr. Open 09:00 21:00. A
A small gift shop where you can find local ceramics, handbags, jewellery, paintings, lamps and other one of a kind
home décor! Best of all, it’s 100% local in design and handmade of course. Andreaart has authentic written all over
it!QC‑3, J.M.Dalmatinca 5, tel. (+385-23) 64 62 48. Open
09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Sun closed. From July
Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00.
THE ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM SHOP
An interesting and attractive offer of souvenirs from the
museum consists of casts and copies of useful items, jewellery, and simple home decorations made from different
materials, from ceramics, plaster, stone and metal. Best of
all, it’s all handmade!QC‑3, Trg opatice Čike 1, amzd.hr/
en/. Open 09:00 - 21:00. July - August 31 Open 09:00 22:00. N
Another small store, which in translation means ‘a little box’,
offers original Croatian souvenirs from magnets, stones, purses, ornaments and jewellery with the use of different techniques and very importantly once again, handmade.QC‑3,
Stomorica 14. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 17:00 - 22:00. N
THE ZADAR NATIONAL MUSEUM SHOP
Want an original souvenir? Something authentic! Visit the
ground floor of the City Guard at the Narodni Square and
choose from published works, postcards, magnets, key
rings, lavender packages, puzzles, art work reproductions
and other souvenirs featuring motifs of the museum’s artefacts.QC‑3, Narodni trg, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51, www.
nmz.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. JN
QN‑5, Murvička 1, tel. (+385-23) 30 01 00, info@
citygalleria.hr, www.citygalleria.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00.
Closed Sun. P
SUPERNOVA CENTAR ZADAR
QAkcije Maslenica 1, tel. (+385-23) 32 73 01, www.
supernova.hr/zadar/. Open 09:00 - 22:00. W
Summer 2016 61
Since Zadar is a popular tourist hot spot, it is of no surprise that
there is a wide range of accommodation options from hotels,
hostels and private accommodation of different categories
and prices. While on the go, where to snooze is indeed an
important decision. In recent years, an influx of hostels has
opened around town which are extremely clean and tidy, with
attention given to the arrangement of the interior. Detailed
information in reference to all types of accommodation
is available on the web site and at the Tourist Information
Centres. All in all, there’s something for everyone’s pocket!
QResort Punta Skala, Petrčane, tel. (+385-23) 55 56 01,
en/hotel/iadera. doubles €180 - 360. PHAUF
ART HOTEL KALELARGA
QC‑3, Ulica Majke Margarite 3, tel. (+385-23) 23 30 00,
fax (+385-23) 23 30 01, email@example.com,
www.arthotel-kalelarga.com. doubles 975 - 1640kn.
QN‑6, Bože Peričića 14, tel. (+385-23) 20 32 00, fax
(+385-23) 21 30 79, firstname.lastname@example.org,
www.hotel-kolovare.com. doubles 830 - 1360kn. Pi
QF‑4, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 55 56
00, fax (+385-23) 55 56 80, email@example.com,
www.hotel-donat.com. doubles €47 - 74. PTH
QG‑4, Vladana Desnice 18, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33
78 00/(+385-) 091 429 99 09, fax (+385-23) 33 36 16,
firstname.lastname@example.org. triples €60 - 80. PAL
QG‑2, Matije Gupca 19, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 75
00, fax (+385-23) 33 75 28, email@example.com, www.
hotelmediteran-zd.hr. doubles 520 - 850kn. PAL
QB‑2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13, tel. (+385-23) 49
49 50, fax (+385-23) 49 49 51, firstname.lastname@example.org,
www.hotel-bastion.hr. doubles €219 - 250. PZJ
QR‑3, Nikole Jurišića 2, tel. (+385-23) 29 23 00, fax
(+385-23) 29 23 33, email@example.com, www.
hotel-porto.hr. 102 rooms (8 singles €54 - 56, 38 dou‑
bles €74 - 78, 51 triples €86 - 90, 5 apartments €98 102). PHARULGBKW
FALKENSTEINER CLUB FUNIMATION BORIK
QF‑4, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 55 56
00, fax (+385-23) 55 56 80, firstname.lastname@example.org,
www.borik.falkensteiner.com. doubles €81 - 136. Pi
QI‑4, Obala kneza Trpimira 28, tel. (+385-23) 33 75 70,
fax (+385-23) 33 43 36, email@example.com, www.villahresc.hr. 9 rooms (3 doubles €100 - 120, 6 suites €130 220). PALGCW
FALKENSTEINER HOTEL ADRIANA
QF‑4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 55 56 00, fax
(+385-23) 55 56 80, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.
adriana.falkensteiner.com. 48 rooms (48 Junior Suites
€172 - 302). PHAFLEGBKDXCW
Zadar Tourist Board Archives
BOUTIQUE HOSTEL FORUM
QB‑3, Široka ulica 20, tel. (+385-23) 25 07 05, fax
(+385-23) 25 07 95, email@example.com,
hostelforumzadar.com. 99 dorm beds, €18 - 65 per per‑
DRUNKEN MONKEY HOSTEL
QP‑6, Jure Kastriotića Skenderbega 21, tel. (+385-23) 31
44 06/(+385-) 099 415 73 50, drunkenmonkeyhostel@
gmail.com, www.drunkenmonkeyhostel.com. 30 dorm
beds, 165 - 239kn per person. PNGBCW
ZADAR YOUTH HOSTEL
QG‑5, Obala kneza Trpimira 76, tel. (+385-23) 33
11 45, fax (+385-23) 33 11 90, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.
zadarhostel.hfhs.hr. 251 dorm beds, 14.70 - 46.70€ per
62 Zadar In Your Pocket
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e Tue Tu
B. J. Jelačić
B. J. Jelačić
I. Ma ranića
Božidara P tranovića
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Zadar Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Mladen Radolović
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