Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Summer 2017

Summer stages
Have Fun Under the
Open Sky
Croatian Inventors
N°7 - complimentary copy
Great Minds from a Small


What’s on 5 Beasties of the coast
All you need is your pencil and diary and hinterland 36
Croatian critters
A peek through the photo lense 10
Zvonimir Čuvalo Interview Surroundings 38
Nature paradise
Croatian Inventors 12
How they influeneced the world Leisure 54
Recreation all-round
Restaurants 15
Lunch or dinner, you pick Shopping 56
Take home the best memories and souvenirs
Local Flavour 25
Where to stay 59
Keep tradition with cuisine
Places to stay for every pocket
Coffe&Cakes 27
Arrival & Getting Around 61
What a pleasure
Lost? Have no fear, IYP is here
Nightlife 29
Šibenik Basics 64
Bop ‘till you drop All the things you need to know about Šibenik
Sightseeing 31 Maps
Snap, camera, action County map 65
City centre map 66

Those who are keeping alive the tradition of old crafts like wool
production are mostly old women, Photo by Željko Krnčević Summer 2017 3
Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb
ISSN 1848-0365
Company Office & Accounts
Višnja Arambašić
Šibenik In Your Pocket, Lastovska 42, Zagreb, Croatia
Tel. (+385-1) 779 12 28,
Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.
Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedjelja
Croatia Travel Festival, Photo by Matko Jakelić i Tomislav Dugandžić, Editorial
Šibenik Tourist Board Archives Editor Višnja Arambašić
Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank
Šibenik is a town on the upswing; a real architectural jewel Jelinčić, Nikola Badovinac, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić,
and yet not as exposed as Zadar and Split. It has its own Andrea Pisac
unique atmosphere: relaxed and carefree. Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac
It’s a city that has been — and continues to be — used Assistant Editor Blanka Valić
Research & Community Manager Tea Bikić
as an inspiration for countless musicians, composers and Design Ivana Mihoković
songwriters. Its charm lies in the cobblestone streets and Photography Šibenik In Your Pocket team unless oth-
the inevitability of interacting with locals. There’s no speci- erwise stated
fied tourist zone, as the whole city is a museum that begs Cover Šibenik Tourist Board Archives, Photo by A.
to be explored. And topping things off is the fabulous Ca- Grubelić
Sales & Circulation Kristijan Vukičević, Blanka Valić,
thedral built by Juraj Dalmatinac, now a UNESCO world Kristina Štimac, Tea Bikić
heritage site. Copyright notice
The city’s fortresses provide breathtaking views that relieve Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o.
stress, while an afternoon swim at either Jadrija or Banj Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No
beach is a good way to prepare for a night cruising the part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, LegendFest Archives
except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without
town’s many cafes. written permission from the publisher and copyright
While if you need a little more adventure on your holiday, owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under li- 08.07 - 09.07 » LEGENDFEST
the surrounding area is filled with national parks and is- cense from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, SPECIAL/MISCELLANEOUS What do fairies look like? What makes them angry? If you
lands that are waiting to be discovered! Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). EVENTS cannot resist their intoxicating call and their seductive
23.06 - 03.09 » THE ISLAND OF OBONJAN dance, then head to the Krka National Park and join them
A culmination of international and resident DJs make in the fairy dance next to the magical Roški slap (Waterfall).
Obonjan an eclectic paradise each and every day. From But be careful, they might take you into their fairy king-
dusk till dawn, the sounds of ambient electronics, sunset dom and you may never return. Go back in time, where
soundtracks, reggae remixes, and late night raves are to- magic and mystery combine.QKrka National Park, Roški
tally on the agenda. DJs include Gilles Peterson, Hercules slap,
and Love Affair, Roy Ayers, Jordan Rakei Another, Khru-
angbin. Another interactive component is the music talks 01.08 - 10.08 » THE SUMMER SCHOOL OF
and art workshops, yoga and meditation classes.Qwww. ORGANS Out of 19 organs in the Šibenik diocese, 10 are historical,
4 are monuments and 5 are modern. That is why this an-
23.06 - 24.06 » FESTIVAL OF OLD WEDDING nual event gathers excellent international lecturers who
CUSTOMS are all renowned organ players and is educational with
Forget the fancy shmancy limousines, the wedding plan- seminars and workshops. There will be concerts in the
ner, bridal party and so on. Here visitors will be able to see Šibenik Cathedral and surrounding churches.QJ/K‑2,
and participate in exhibitions, ethno workshops, fashion Organum Society, Mosećka 7, tel. (+385-22) 21 98 94,
shows and demonstrations of old customs from the Piro-
vac area. Weddings in particular!QRudina Square, Piro- 01.08 » MURTERSKI PIR
vac, See the forgotten traditional wedding customs of old
from Murter island. Witness the parade where all the par-
06.07 - 14.09 » TRADITIONAL ACAPELLA ticipants are dressed in costume and dance traditional
EVENINGS folklore on the main square, a dance of special rhythm
One of the unique aspects of Croatian culture has to be and choreography but without music. Customs such as
the tingling sounds of Dalmatian klapa (traditional aca- the bride having pirovnjaci who carry the bride’s dota, an
pella songs that are sung by a group of singers who vary old treasury chest filled with bed spreads, clothes, garden
the range in their vocal chords - from bass to tenor). Klape tools and a mandrel for winding wool. Then the locals
groups gather to make for an enjoyable Thursday evening give all attendees wine, and…. Well you’ll just have to see
in the Šibenik square.QE‑3, Trg Ivana Pavla II, www. the rest for yourself.QMurter, Murter Island, www.tzo- 21:30.

4 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 5
What’s On What’s On
20.07 - 22.07 » OFF JAZZ & BLUES FESTIVAL 13.07 - 17.07 » BEATS, BEER & BOOGALOO
A three day jazz jostling, blues burning fešta as the locals Welcome to the newest festival to hit the coast as organ-
would call it. Held since 2007, this musical treat continues ised by UK Soul & Funk icon Craig Charles and the found-
to grow as it draws respectable Croatian and world jazz/ ers of the world recognised Garden Festival. The gorgeous
blues musicians and is set in the picturesque stone ambi- coastal town of Tisno turns into a tantalising tuneful turn-
ence of the Ivan Goran Kovačić Square.Qwww.offfestival. table with boat parties, club nights, streets food, a parade
net. and more. Chill on sandy beaches, sip by the bar and party
on with live acts such as the Hot 8 Brass Band, Geno Wash-
21.07 - 23.07 » VODICE JAZZ & BLUES FES- ington and the Ram Jam Band, Amp Fiddler, and dozens
TIVAL of other acts and DJs. Craft beer bonzer breweries will
There are those who unashamedly love jazz and those be available to help cool off from the heat.QThe Garden
who live for jazz. See the lads and lasses of the eminent Resort Tisno,
Croatian and world jazz scene with versatile styles of mu-
sic from classical swing, rhythm and dixieland, to the more 14.07 - 15.07 » REGIUS FESTIVAL #7
contemporary genres such as fusion and free jazz.Qwww. The Banj beach in Šibenik will be home to two days of al- ternative music for all to see. By bringing bands from Croa-
tia and neighbouring countries and by promoting good
neighbourly relations, organisers are actively working to
FESTIVALS reduce the negative aspects of nationalism among young
17.06 - 01.07 » INTERNATIONAL CHIL- people in the region. Music unites, music is might!QJ‑2,
Established in 1958, this event bridges the city of Šibenik
16.07 - 21.07 » SUPERTOON - INTERNA-
with its youth. The festival is famous not only for its per-
formances but also for its creative dimension, encouraging
Craig Charles by Decoy Media, Beats, Beer and Boogaloo Festival Is animation your fascination? The Supertoon Interna-
kids to get involved with different art forms: drama classes, tional Animation Festival presents recent Croatian and
puppetry, musicals and theatre, film, literature and paint-
04.08 » VODICE FIESTA SPORT ing. So there are workshops galore, educational training,
international short animated films through an array of
competitions and additional programmes. Do not miss
The sparks are flying and this is one of the night in August 22.07 » RASLINA SWIMMING MARATHON world presentations and more! The event is spread across
deemed the craziest summer night in Vodice. Music can the night sky projections, film screenings under the
Who says you can’t holiday and swim a marathon at the different areas of the stars, workshops, and beach parties on hand.Qwww.
be heard at all city squares in all cafes; the town comes to same time? For some, swimming long distance is lei-
life with a fireworks spectacle and a huge carnival/party 02.07 - 09.07 » ENGLISH BRASS ACADEMY
sure! Over 250 competitors took part last year, and more
type of atmosphere.QVodice, Riva, is expected this year. Choose from the 5km (80kn entry
home. fee) or 1.5km run (60kn entry fee), there are 3 children’s Renowned British trumpet player Paul Archibald sets up a
races also. Held at Lake Prokljan in brackish waters, you can great opportunity for all brass players aged 16 and above
05.08 » SWEET SOUND OF SUMMER where here congregates leading brass and percussion
Supersonic electronic music event that has given Šibenik find competition rules and the registration form at www. teachers, some of whom are from the finest European
and its social calendar a buzzing sensation! Talented DJs orchestras and together they develop innovative and cre-
from the area worship the stage as it’s a platform for them ative courses in the field; they also offer educational per-
to enchant an audience and help lead them to bigger
and brighter things. Each year, at least one well known DJ
JAZZ & BLUES formance opportunities for brass and percussion players.
16.06 21:00 » CUBISMO & HRT JAZZ OR-
graces the turntables.Q Jadrija.
12.08 » AWAKENING OF THE DRAGON Latino music lives, Latino music live! Often dubbed as the
A unique staging of the ancient legend of ‘Lake Dragon
best Cuban band outside Cuba, Cubismo is our very own See world artists and dance companies from Africa to
Eye’ and the dragon named Murin, which will be held long lasting Latino group having won a record 21 Porin Latin America perform at the ‘Solaris Beach Resort’, a stun-
along the Rogoznica waterfront. Witness a story of true Awards over two decades. They join forces with Croatian
love that transforms the world, a story of courage, love, loy- ning lagoon packed with pools, bars, restaurants, sun-
Radio & Television’s Jazz Orchestra as they continue to fuse shades, and more. As a bonus, a free stage lit party will be
alty, and the triumph of good over evil. A fairy-tale world the best of both genres. The concert will be held on the
of dragons, wizards, knights and maidens, and become held by Saint James Cathedral with a dance programme
St Michael’s Fortress stage as a great warm-up to a hot
part of the legend.QRogoznica, and a band performing live on Friday, July 7th. Rio look
summer!QC‑2, St Michael’s Fortress, Zagrađe 21, tel.
out!QSolaris Beach Resort, Hoteli Solaris 86, tel. (+385-
(+385-) 091 497 55 47,
08.09 - 10.09 » THE FAIR IN MEDIEVAL 22) 36 39 51,
Travel back in time and see Šibenik as it once was with A jazz spectacle not to be missed with the award-winning 06.07 - 09.07 » ELECTRIC ELEPHANT FESTI-
actors retelling local ancient tales, plus street walkers, virtuoso Gregory Porter set to bring his liquid spirit and VAL
traditional folk costume and dance, gastronomy, knights, velvety voice to Croatia. The super-smooth critically ac- A celebration of House, Electronica and Balearic Beats in
craftsmen and more. The event honours the feast of Saint claimed soul singer will dazzle the audience with his an idyllic setting of the island of Obonjan make the atmo-
Michael, patron to the city. You know those portrait faces hits which include Holding On, Do not Lose Your Steam, sphere harmonious and special. Headliners include Joe
surrounding the apsidal wreath around Saint James’ Ca- Take Me to the Alley, French African Queen and many Goddard, Gerd Janson, Daniel Avery, Greg Wilson, Nor-
thedral; this is when their spirit comes to life.Qwww. more!QC‑2, St Michael’s Fortress, Zagrađe 21, tel. man Jay, Horse meat disco...QObonjan Island, www. (+385-) 091 497 55 47, The Black Madonna, Love International Festival

6 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 7
What’s On What’s On
17.07 - 22.07 » OFF YOGA FESTIVAL is famous for his funky grooves that have brought him
No matter if you love yoga or never tried yoga, the slogan world-wide popularity. Stay tuned for further line-up
here is all about promoting healthy life through yoga. Emi- announcements!QPrimošten, Ex Hotel Marina lučica.
nent national and international yoga teachers are here to
teach, hold lectures and offer workshops relating to this 24.07 - 30.07 » ŠIBENIK DANCE FESTIVAL
growing world phenomenon. Traditional Chinese Medi- Dancing is like dreaming with your feet and this is Šibenik’s
cine, Ayuverda, Zen, Tea Ceremonies, Meditation, and Qi favourite dance event of the year. Six days of morning
Gong are additives to spruce up the entire experience. workshops and evening shows in front of the Cathedral,
Health is wealth! on St Michael’s Fortress and on the National Theatre stage
with up to 250 dancers and choreographers alike.Qwww.
19.07 - 26.07 » SUNCÉBEAT
Eight years running, the beats bounce on at Suncebeat
with a feast of world DJs, party starting live acts and guest 27.07 - 31.07 » SOUNDWAVE CROATIA Sara Renar, SuperUho Festival
PA’s to help make sure that punters get that heartfelt ex- An eclectic musical experience waits at one of Europe’s
perience. With underground House, Disco, Techno, Soul, most friendly and intimate festivals. Laid back indeed, hear
R&B and Funk sounds, choose to chill at either the Beach some of the latest and greatest exponents of broken beat,
Stage, Main Stage and the Olive Grove. Look out for Kerri reggae, afro to acid jazz, hip-hop, soul, funk, drum and
Chandler, David Rodigan, Jeremy Underground, Louie bass, and more. Here’s a small snapshot of performers;The
Vega, David Morales & Dennis Ferrer.QThe Garden Resort Pharcyde, Roy Ayers, Gogo Penguin, Roni Size, Gilles Peter-
Tisno, son, Laura Mvula, Horse Meat Disco and more.QThe Gar-
den Resort, Tisno,
07.08 - 09.08 » SUPERUHO FESTIVAL
In its fourth year, the SuperUho Festival takes place in
Membrain Festival Archives The Garden Tisno, Beach Bar, Credit Tim Ertl
Primošten and close to one of the most stunning beaches
along the Adriatic. And what a line-up with Billy Bragg,
Buzzcocks, Conor Oberst, Gracin, Jessy Lanza, Sara Renar, 24.08 - 28.08 » DEKMANTEL SELECTORS the glory of Rome with ancient music, dance, recipes,
Shellac, Liars and many more genre crossing acts. Don’t for- The focus here is on the art of DJing and looking at the food and wine.QVelika Mrdakovica - Rimska Cisterna
get, camping is available and free WI-FI too!QPrimošten, talent and complexities of this craft. The 5 day event has Archaeological Site, a limited capacity of only 1500 tickets available where pa- 23.08 » ŠAŠA I PULENTA
trons are beachside by day and Barbarella’s Club at night. Try a Dalmatian specialty which is prepared and cooked
10.08 - 15.08 » DEFECTED CROATIA
A huge line-up of artists include the likes of Andrew Lyster, along the Vodice Riva according to traditional recipes. Šaša
One of the most famous house music brands ‘Defected’
comes to Croatia to light up the Adriatic. Expect all-day Call Super, Jan Schulte, Jon K, Joy Orbison, Juju & Jordash, is a tasty salsa type sauce served on palenta - grounded
beach sessions with daily boat parties for that true out- Motor City Drum Ensemble, Nick The Record, The Wizard, cornmeal boiled in water; add to that some local spices
door clubbing experience. The full festival repertoire Palms Trax, Vakula, Will Bankhead, and Young Marco. And and this was the favourite of all meals amongst farmers in
embraces sub-themes such as Classic and Glitterbox, and they’re just the night owls!QThe Garden Resort Tisno, the good old days.QVodice, Riva,
others plus the finest house artists and underground DJ
talents backed by a state of the art production. So who’s EXHIBITIONS
playing you ask? MK, Basement Jaxx DJ set, Kenny Dope,
Eats Everything, Dennis Ferrer, Roger Sanchez,Derrick
FILM 21.07 - 28.07 » FRIENDS OF THE SEA -
Carter, Todd Terry, Claptone and more...QThe Garden Re- 04.07 - 08.07 » SOLO POSITIVO FILM FESTI- GAMES
sort, Tisno, VAL Having started in 2009, this photo exhibit highlights a se-
Finding the balance between music films and documen- ries of 60 large-format photos by prominent Croatian pho-
10.08 - 13.08 » MEMBRAIN FEST tary films, or even gelling them together is what defines tographers. The squares and shores of 13 Croatian cities
Fun by Alexandar Tomulić, Friends of the Sea Exhibition Dedicated to Bass Music where one can sense the vibe this event. Held across various locations which include the display the ambience of this year’s theme ‘games at the
of the British underground club scene blending into the St. Michael’s fortress, visitors get to experience a five-day sea’ with (diving, sailing, racing, swimming marathons,
21.07 - 23.07 » 15 THE VODICE JAZZ & summer Mediterranean outdoors. Two total opposites film feast along with a rich accompanying programme. millennium jumps) and all the adrenaline they raise. Its
BLUES FESTIVAL that attract! It takes place at the Minerska bay with dif- Highlights include the award-winning documentary ‘The media culture merged with sports, leisure and ecology
There are those who unashamedly love jazz and those ferent packages available. Camping too! Four days, three Beatles: Eight Days a Week - The Touring Years’ and Lai- along the serene Adriatic
stages and over 50 DJs from across Europe with headlin- bach’s ‘Liberation Day’
who live for jazz. See the lads and lasses of the eminent 24.08 - 13.09 » SEA, PEOPLE, COAST
Croatian and world jazz scene with versatile styles of ers Hydro, NCT, T&Sugah, Toast MC, and Rafael Aragon…
A traditional exhibition since 1971 which gathers and
music from classical swing, rhythm and dixieland, to the QMinerska Bay,
more contemporary genres such as fusion and free jazz. FOOD & DRINK presents artistic works of the sea, sea landscapes, Medi-
terranean plants, vineyards, Dalmatian towns with their
QVodice, Riva,
This ancient city has chanson music carved in its very narrow streets and monuments, as well as their people.
Turn Roman for one night in Vodice and its surrounding See this part of the world through the eyes of so many
22.07 » PRIMOBEATS stones and the schedule is proof of that. The first, is an
fields which are a perfect backdrop for staging an ancient
The serene town of Primošten is primed to host this large evening of international music and the second evening is Croatian and foreign masters; the exhibition turns into a
summer open air party which will be held in the area of a dalmatian chanson. All artists will perform live, together feast dedicated to Bacchus, the god of wine and merri- celebration of colours, lines and surfaces.QD‑4, Šibenik
the former hotel Marina Lucica. With more acts to un- with the festival orchestra and ensembles.QD‑4, Trg Re- ment. Participate in a parade of dance and song aimed at City Museum, Gradska vrata 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 38 80,
veil, the star of the night will be DJ Christian Smith who publike Hrvatske, blessing vineyards and calling for a good crop. Reminisce

8 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 9
What’s On Zvonimir Čuvalo Interview
Zvonimir Čuvalo is a qualified lawyer, former soldier, diplo- ŠIYP: Which view of Prvić should everyone take a pic-
mat and businessman currently working at the Institute of ture of to remember it by?
Anthropology in Zagreb. As if he could be any more ver- Zvonimir: When someone says Prvić I have Šepurina and
satile, he’s also a passionate photographer with a special the church of St Jelena the Crusader in my mind. That
place in his heart for the island of Prvić near Šibenik. beautiful little church to me is the symbol and guiding
light of Šepurina and Prvić. I believe that there is not one
ŠIYP: Which are your favourite motifs and are they visitor to the island who has not in some way taken that
the most frequent ones in your photographs? picture with them. While I am traveling from Vodice to
Zvonimir: A photograph is born in my imagination and Šepurina I watch Prvić but I only really see it when the bell
the camera is just the means by which I then try to trans- tower of St Jelena the Crusader comes into view.
form what is in my imagination into a pictorial record. I
don’t have a favourite motif, but if I had to choose some- ŠIYP: What would you say a tourist must try, and
thing then it would be people or an individual in his or her what should they take home as a souvenir?
own surroundings, the environment which they created Zvonimir: What should they try? Everything that they see
themselves, adapted and built for their own purpose and and which they like. What should they take home from
which also “speaks” of them. Croatia? A ticket to come back, beautiful memories and
smiles. Everything else will be waiting for them when they
ŠIYP: Do you prefer black and white or colour pho- come back.
tography, and why?
Zvonimir: I personally prefer black and white photogra- ŠIYP: How can people reach you and how can they
phy, although I quite frequently take colour pictures too. see your work?
When you take colour pictures you are taking photo- Zvonimir: It’s easiest to contact me by email: zvonimir.
graphs of colours, colours are a means of expression. Co- They can see my work in my Flickr gal-
lours, although they are beautiful, can detract attention or, lery: or on Face-
to put it better, be a distracting factor from the important book: Sometimes, when I
thing in a photograph. Black and white photography, be- have the time I develop photos in the classic way, on black
reft of colour, leaves to the eye of the observer the very es- and white paper, usually 40x50 cm but I can do other sizes
sence of the subject or object in the photograph, simple, if required.
unadorned, unimpeded by colours, expressed in shades of
grey and additionally emphasised by the relationship be-
tween light and shade. It seems to me that with black and
white photography I can much more easily and directly
get to the important thing in the photograph.

ŠIYP: What does the island of Prvić mean to you per-
Zvonimir: Prvić is an island bathed in sunshine, and when
Prvić traditional folk costumes it rains and when the humid south wind blows, and when
the cold north wind or when it’s a sunny day it’s the place
where I most quickly recharge my batteries for the days
when I am not there. I know that I can always go there, and

A peek through the
I only leave so that I can return.

ŠIYP: In what way would you say Prvić differs from
the other islands in the Šibenik archipelago?
Zvonimir: Prvić is the people who live there and the

photo lense
people who constantly return there. A complex simplicity
and clearness of living on such a small island has a special
charm. And there is always space for everyone, more or
less, but there is. The locals are rather unique, life is hard on
the island but they always look forward to seeing you, they
always invite you to come and when you have to leave
they always ask when you will come again. It’s something
HOW ZVONIMIR ČUVALO SEES PRVIĆ ISLAND special when people look forward to seeing you and you
them. That’s Šepurina and Prvić.

10 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 11
Croatian Inventors Croatian Inventors
By Andrea Pisac show but they forever change the way we see the world.
If there was an index to calculate a country’s inventiveness This is why you should remember Ruđer Bošković, Du-
gene, Croatia would rank extremely high. This small coun- brovnik-born mathematician, astronomer, and philosopher
try of no more than 4.5 million people has advanced the – the father of modern physics.
world in all major spheres of life. Croatian inventors have His famous work Theoria Philosophiae Naturalis/Theory
dreamed up ingenious abstract concepts and have also of Natural Philosophy (Vienna, 1758) contains super-
created hands-on solutions that we use in everyday life. modern theories that were proven and embraced only two
Starting from Nikola Tesla who literally “lit up the world” centuries later. Like for example that matter consists of tiny
with his alternating electric current to Slavoljub Penkala particles, today known as quarks, and a lot of empty space.
whose pen allows us to sign our name – physically on pa- The true meaning of this revolutionary discovery may be
per and metaphorically as a legacy. lost to a layperson. So think of Albert Einstein’s theory of
Many of Croatia’s greatest minds lived a quiet life, as most relativity – the biggest discovery of the 20th century –
geniuses do. And as history keeps re-evaluating our big- and remember that it wouldn’t have been possible without
gest civilizational feats, Croatian inventions too are being Bošković’s ideas.
rescued from oblivion. Like for example the ideas spawned But this genius scientist also used his mind for practical so-
by the physicist Ruđer Bošković, which predate Einstein’s lutions, like repairing the dome of St. Peter’s in Rome
theory of relativity by 200 years. and setting up the famous Brera Observatory in Milan.
What better way to connect to your travel destination than
to realize how its inventors influenced the world at large, Ivan Lupis (1813-1875)
and your own day-to-day life. So here is a list of Croatia’s Weapons may not be the greatest of our achievements, but
major innovators. when Ivan Lupis invented the torpedo, more technologi-
cal breakthroughs followed. The initial idea of this Croatian
Faust Vrančić (1551 - 1617) navy officer was to guard the coast with small boats laden
People had always been fascinated with flying, but it was with explosives.
not until the Renaissance that they had the first taste of it. The concept of fighting off the enemy with a much smaller
Many think that Leonardo da Vinci invented the parachute. and self-propelled vessel was so revolutionary it quickly
But the revolutionary ‘Homo Volans’ (the flying man) con- caught the attention of the English engineer Robert
cept was actually thought through by Šibenik-born Faust Whitehead. Under his direction, the first torpedo was
Vrančić. manufactured in Rijeka in 1868. Over the years the
In his masterwork Machinae Novae/New Devices (Venice fish-like underwater weapon was improved through other
1615), this genius polymath depicted 56 different ma- discoveries, such as contra-rotating propellers and the use
chines, devices, and technical concepts. Many were bridg- of a gyroscope for direction setting. It was one of the most
es, mills and turbines. Next time you admire San Francisco’s important military resources in both World Wars.
famous Golden Gate Bridge, remember that the suspen-
sion bridge was Vrančić’s brainchild. Ivan Vučetić (1858 - 1925)
The parachute he conceived of was the first ever tested. Today’s world is fascinated with forensics and CSI TV shows.
It was Vrančić himself who at the age of 65 jumped from On the one hand, this advanced investigative technology
St Mark’s Campanile in Venice and confirmed his invention makes us safer because hardly anyone can get away with
Nikola Tesla Laboratory, Nikola Tesla Technical Museum Archives committing a crime. On the other, the data kept on each of
worked. He survived, setting humankind on course to fi-
nally conquer the sky. us may be infringing on our privacy. Like fingerprinting for
an ID for example.
Marin Getaldić (1568-1626) Whether you are for or against it, have you ever wondered

Croatian Inventors
Maybe you don’t need glasses, or don’t need them yet. who invented it? It was the Hvar-born Ivan Vučetić who
But when you pick them up in your seasoned years, think later emigrated to Argentina and became the director
of the mathematician and physicist Marin Getaldić. This of the Center for Dactyloscopy in Buenos Aires. In 1892
Dubrovnik-born colleague of Galileo Galilei set the stage Vučetić made the first positive identification of a criminal
for modern day optics. A pioneer in building conic lenses, based on a bloody fingerprint. His exceptional method of
he would retire into the so called Bete’s cave outside the fingerprinting classification became the golden stand-
Dubrovnik city walls and conduct his experiments with ard in CSIs around the world.
The parabolic mirror he built still survives and is kept at Nikola Tesla (1856-1943)
the National Maritime Museum in London. Again, a para- There are still people who don’t know of Tesla, but there is
bolic mirror may not sound like much. But next time you hardly anyone whose life is not impacted by his ingenious
tune into your favourite TV show on a satellite channel, re- inventions. Let’s start with electricity, this basic facility that
member, a satellite dish is just one if its many applications. we won’t or can’t live without. Tesla’s alternating electric
current (AC), invented at the same time as Edison’s direct
Ruđer Bošković (1711-1787) current (DC), proved a safer and more cost-effective mode
The hardest inventions to understand and appreciate are of power generation and distribution. Tesla is what hap-
the abstract ones. They may not have practical devices to pens every day when you turn your lights switch on!

12 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 13
Croatian Inventors Restaurants
The old-fashioned way, with a pen to paper. This was made
Concept One, Rimac Automobili Archives possible by the great inventor Slavoljub Penkala who first SYMBOL KEY
patented the mechanical pen in 1906. Only a year later,
Penkala also created the fountain pen. P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
These writing accessories became so popular that Pen-
T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled
kala teamed up with Edmund Moster to set up the Penkala-
Moster pen-and-pencil factory. TOZ Penkala (the factory’s B Outside seating L Guarded parking
current name) is still alive and kicking in Zagreb – an estab-
lishment with a cult status. S Take away 6 Pet-friendly
If writing is our civilizational achievement, then Penkala
W Wifi J Old town location
undoubtedly provided one of the most crucial means by
which we leave our mark and our signature in the world.

Zlata Bartl (1920-2008) TRADITIONAL
A magical cooking spice Vegeta is the magnus opus of
Zlata Bartl. You may be thinking ‘how typical for a woman If you’re close the Cathedral then Admiral is nearby.
to invent something relating to the kitchen’. But Zlata Bartl Choose to dine in or out with an undercover terrace avail-
was a chemist and a scientist working in Croatia’s foremost able. The cuisine is typically Mediterranean with seafood
food company Podravka. hot on the menu; octopus under the iron bell and the sea-
In 1959 she concocted Vegeta from salt, spices, dried veg- food platter are a treat. Other delights include various pas-
etables and flavour enhancers. The condiment soon shot to tas, salads and meats. Their house wines (red and white)
popularity and was selling worldwide. No foreign attempt are popular and fair on the pocket. The perfect location for
to reproduce the product, and there were many, was suc- a break from sightseeing!QD‑4, Kralja Tomislava 15a, tel.
cessful, so Vegeta continues to be one of Croatia’s most (+385) 099 212 58 19. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (65 - 200kn).
His next grand discovery was the radio, though it was ini- widely recognized brands. Next time you are cooking, P­T­J­A­G­B­K­S­W
tially credited to Marconi – the patent was eventually given try the Croatian trick – finish with adding one spoonful of
Vegeta. BARUN
back to Tesla in 1943. From there Tesla invented the sys- Based in a large family house midway between Brodarica
tem of remote control. Yes, the same one you use when and the Solaris complex, Barun has a big first-floor dining
Tomislav Uzelac
you flip through TV channels. room with views towards the green olive plantations sur-
Do you remember how the iPod came to be? There is a
His most impressive yet controversial discovery is the moving scene in the film Steve Jobs where he devised the rounding Solaris’s bay, and outdoor seating in a garden
Tesla Coil – the concept that the Earth itself is a magnet portable music library to get closer to his estranged daugh- planted with palms and lush Mediterranean plants. Local
which generates electricity through frequencies. All that is ter. But having your favourite music tucked inside your fish and shellfish form the mainstay of the menu, although
needed for free power for everyone is a transmitter. See the pocket predates Jobs’ ingenuity. it’s the pasta dishes that bring many in-the-know Šibenik
controversy here? diners out this far.QPodsolarsko 66, tel. (+385-22) 35
The first successful MP3 player was invented by the
But, back to practical, everyday solutions. Think of house 06 66. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (90 - 450kn). P­A­L­G­
Croatian programmer Tomislav Uzelac. He built on research
appliances, machine tools, disk drives... they are all B­W
about music file compression carried out in Germany and
powered by the electric motor invented by Tesla. Next came up with his own product in 1997 – AMP. This first MP3 DALMATINO
time when you take a cold drink from your fridge, think Te- player was picked up in the USA and adapted to work on A classic tavern set in the heart of town with rustic items
sla. Styling your hair with a hairdryer? Think Tesla. This man Windows. Then we got Winamp, and we are sure most of used as décor. Konobe (village taverns) typically house
changed the planet as probably no one before or after him. you have had it installed on your computers. smoked meats, wine and olive oil, and this eatery has all of
And yes, the Tesla electric car is named after Nikola Tesla! the above; the menu bursts with excellent fish and meats
The newest inventions that are prepared in traditional ways.QE‑3, Fra Nikole
David Schwarz (1850-1897)
There is a new generation of savvy Croatian program- Ružića 1, tel. (+385-) 098 26 61 76. Open 09:00 - 00:00.
When it comes to conquering the sky, Croats indebted
mers who continue to impress with their state-of-the-art (70 - 200kn). P­T­J­N­G­B­X­W
the world with yet another design – the Zeppelin. David
devices. You will come across at least two of them while KANELA
Schwarz, a Croatian aviation pioneer created the first of its
you travel in Croatia. Here, you can pay for parking by text A small tavern with five tables inside and slightly more on
kind, an airship completely made of metal. The Zeppelin
message and charge your mobile device on a solar-pow- the outdoor terrace, Kanela is arguably the most tradition-
plane may not be in use any more, but its discovery was
ered smart bench. The Steora bench, invented by Ivan al of the eating establishments along Šibenik’s Riva, with
an important step in designing airships which could be
Mrvoš, has already stormed the world, and Zagreb alone an exposed-stone interior hung with old-style lanterns.
controlled by engine-driven propellers.
has 20 of them installed across the city. Fresh fish, pork chops and crustaceans are grilled on an
Schwarz worked on the prototype that was to be test flown
in Berlin in 1897, but he died a few months before it hap- When it comes to new sources of energy, you only need open hearth that’s visible at the back of the dining room.
pened. The legend says that Count Ferdinand Graf von Zep- to go 20 km outside Zagreb to the bucolic village of Sveta Veal or octopus baked under an ember-covered peka is on
pelin bought Schwarz’s patent from his widow, the reason Nedelja to find the world’s fastest electric car. This is offer if you order well in advance.QE‑4, Obala dr. Franje
why the airship is named after him. where Mate Rimac makes his famous Concept One – the Tuđmana 5, tel. (+385-22) 21 49 86. Open 08:00 - 24:00,
biggest competitor to the electric models made by Ferrari, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 130kn). P­i­T­N­G­B­X­W
Slavoljub Penkala (1871-1922) Lamborghini and Porsche. When you are in Zagreb, don’t
Even if you’re not a professional writer, try counting the miss a chance to visit the Rimac factory. Go on a 60 minute
number of times you put your signature on a document. tour and meet the world’s most talked about car in person.

14 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 15
Restaurants Restaurants
A decent and unpretentious place, at Tomaseo you can
unwind and enjoy a good meal on the terrace while tak-
ing in the view of the Šibenik Channel. Mains and desserts
are well-prepared and reasonably priced.QE‑4, Obala dr.
Franje Tuđmana 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 92 54. Open 10:00
- 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (70 - 155kn). P­T­J­
Long considered one of the best seafood restaurants
in the region, this is a roomy and rather plush location
decked out in welcoming pinky-red hues, with potted
indoor trees and a sprinkling of cacti. The big sea-facing
terrace offers wonderful views, with the island of Krapanj
putting in an appearance just across the water. The finest
fish (weighing in at around 400kn per kilo) will be grilled,
baked or stewed according to your wishes. Otherwise you
can opt for grilled tuna steaks or simple fillets of white
fish from around 75kn each. With light jazzy music in the
background, it’s the ideal place for a quality meal in relax-
Pelegrini Restaurant Archives ing, romantic surroundings.QKrapanjskih spužvara 46,
Brodarica, tel. (+385-22) 35 03 00/(+385-22) 35 06 95,
KONOBA NOSTALGIJA Open 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 250kn).
It’s a family affair and you’ll feel like you’re part of the Ujević P­A­L­G­B­X­W
kin soon. Oozes Mediterranean with a diverse and afford-
able menu for either lunch or dinner with local ingredients
and local wine top on the list! Cheese and meat platters,
fish sorts and soups are highly popular, liquors and home- PELEGRINI
made cakes too. Quality overrides quantity here and the Occupying a renovated medieval building, just up the
rustic interior is grand.QF‑3, Biskupa Fosca 11, tel. (+385- steps from Šibenik Cathedral, Pelegrini offers a winning
22) 20 02 17/(+385-) 091 587 25 06, www.nostalgija- blend of bare-stone historical authenticity and contem- INTERNATIONAL for free with every meal ordered. Thursdays is Dalmatian Open 12:00 - 22:00. (70 - 130kn). P­A­ porary design cool. They create personalised high-end BAZZA night with live music!QPodsolarsko 78 (next to Solaris
G­B­X­W gastronomic experiences, rich with flavours and aromas Choose from eating in or out in their courtyard; choose Beach Resort), tel. (+385-22) 35 04 94/(+385-) 091 490
of gastronomic heritage. Dishes are made using local from eating breakfast through to dinner. The choice is 99 88, Open 13:00 - 24:00, Sat,
MARINEO RESTAURANT ingredients and fresh seafood, while sommeliers create Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (40 - 140kn). P­T­A­6­L­G­B­
yours and there’s plenty of it on the menu which includes
Located in the heart of the Old Town of Šibenik and with a daily wine selections to best fit the season and condition X­W
seafood, wok cooked dishes, scrumptious desserts that in-
stunning view of St.Nicholas’ Church, this small restaurant of each wine. For lunch, guests choose a minimum of 3
courses, while for dinner the minimum is 5 courses. Tast- clude raw cakes and more. A lot of the menu has a healthy
is one of those rare gems which offers delicious authen-
tic Dalmatian cuisine, relaxed service and great value for ing menu is available upon request.QC‑3, Jurja Dalma- feel to it with refreshing juices too, and the service with a
smile is a worthy mention.QE‑3, Kralja Tomislava 9, tel.
money. The romantic set up on the terrace is second to tinca 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 37 01, Open FRESH&HASH JUICE BAR
12:00 - 15:00, 18:30 - 24:00. (320 - 650kn). P­J­A­ (+385-) 098 945 13 78. Open 09:00 -23:00. P­A­B
none. Worth a visit so don’t miss it!QE‑3, Dobrić 1, tel. There are certainly worse ways to spend a sunny summer
(+385-) 099 212 58 19, Open 11:00 - G­B­X­W STARI GRAD afternoon than sitting in a town square, sipping a delicious
23:00. (60 - 160kn). T­J­6­N­B­W For a tasty meal that won’t break the bank right in the juice or smoothie. Fresh and Hash has dozens of fruit and
heart of Šibenik, head right along to this simple little spot. veg combinations, just waiting for you to try. Of course,
PEŠKARIJA As well as decent pizzas, they serve up a range of meat and you can always have breakfast or a late lunch here, or if
The name of this hostelry means “The Fish Market”, so no fish dishes.QE‑4, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 7, tel. (+385- the evening is getting on, a few cocktails perhaps.QF‑2,
prizes for guessing what’s on the menu. Peškarija has a 22) 21 28 64. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (40 Trg kralja Držislava 1, tel. (+385-22) 77 66 10, www.
pleasant terrace with a sea view.QC‑3, Obala palih om-
- 150kn). P­i­T­J­A­G­B­X­W Open 07:30 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 -
ladinaca 4, tel. (+385-) 091 111 27 27. Open 11:00 - 01:00.
23:00. (18 - 37kn). P­i­J­B­K­S­W
(50 - 500kn). P­J­A­L­G­B­W
Enjoying an enviable quayside position, is a traditional GASTRO ITALIANO Craving a healthy breakfast or lunch made from organic
Dalmatian restaurant that has been given a modern make- With over 20 pizzas to choose, you can’t lose! For over 15 ingredients, Gracjoža is the perfect take-away which is lo-
over, surrounding diners with soothing fawn hues and years this eatery has prepped dishes with quality and care- cated in the heart of town, opposite the City Library and
smart furnishings rather than the usual nautical trinkets. fully selected foods along with their ‘old school’ cooking Krešimir Park. Freshly squeezed juices, veggies and daily
The grilled fish and meat dishes are unlikely to disappoint, recipes. Seafood and meats pack the menu with gems sandwiches, gluten-free pastry, vegan puddings, jams and
and the seafood pasta dishes are excellent.QE‑4, Obala like chicken filled with prosciutto in shrimp sauce and local cheeses are just some of the delicious delights.QG‑2,
dr. Franje Tuđmana 3, tel. (+385-) 095 834 55 67. Open homemade croutons. Tuna and salmon steaks on the grill Fra Stjepana Zlatovića 2, tel. (+385-) 099 425 49 79.
09:00 - 24:00. (75 - 150kn). P­i­T­A­G­B­X­W Pelegrini Restaurant Archives are popular not to mention the homemade bread served Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (20 - 30kn). V­S

16 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 17
Restaurants Restaurants
BEER HALLS Out of town In Golubovac bay on the island of Žut, this restaurant run
PIVNICA TONI by the Mudronja family mixes a standard repertoire of tra-
If munching tasty pizza and pasta dishes while listening
to classic Rolling Stones tracks is your idea of a good start
DRNIŠ ditional high quality Dalmatian cuisine. Local ingredients
especially herbs and flora from the Kornati region is used.
to the evening, then Pivnica Toni is probably the place for KOD BAJE Fish and lobster with innovative starters such as conger-
you. It has long been a favourite among the local music- This unpretentious and inexpensive lunching spot serves eel pate and various fish carpaccioare some of the finer
fan fraternity: the walls are covered in Šibenik-related pop up many traditional staples that have disappeared from things on offer. Home-baked bread and a well-stocked
memorabilia, including photos of singer-songwriter Arsen more touristy restaurants elsewhere, with heart, liver and wine cellar provide two more incentives to visit. The res-
Dedić, pianist Maksim Mrvica, pop balladeer Mate Mišo brains featuring strongly on a menu that also takes in taurant also has a small shop selling groceries and other
Kovač, and any number of lesser-known local acts that (thank goodness) less queasy dishes such as meaty grills, supplies to yachters.QUvala Golubovac, Otok Žut - Ko-
never quite made it onto the national stage. One wall is stews and sausages. Most importantly, Bajo serves up local rnati, tel. (+385-) 099 347 35 19/(+385-) 099 239 90 89,
reserved for sporting heroes, with Šibenik-born basketball delicacies such as Drniš pršut (melt-in-the-mouth home- Open 09:00 - 23:00. (120 - 500kn). T­A­
icon Dražen Petrović hogging the limelight. The outdoor Pelegrini Restaurant Archives cured ham) and sir iz mišine (sheep’s cheese matured in a 6­G­B­X­W
terrace is a popular venue for laid-back beer-drinking on bag made from intestines) – a combined platter of the two
summer evenings.QE‑4, Zlarinski prolaz 1, tel. (+385-22) is Drniš’s version of gastronomic heaven.QMate Grubišića FOUR LIONS
21 78 60. Open 07:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. (35 14, Drniš, tel. (+385-22) 88 79 40. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Attached to Zlarin’s only hotel is this big dining area spread
- 45kn). P­T­A­6­G­B­X­W Sun 07:00 - 14:00. (40 - 60kn). P­i­T­A­G­B­X­W beneath a canopy with a fishing boat hanging from the
ŠUBIĆ ceiling. Expect a respectable menu of meat and fish, with
Beer house very much in the heart of Šibenik! Sizeable area ISLANDS plenty that’s freshly-caught it functions as a café too, with
with food and drinks served and beer available on tap. Live chairs and tables right by the waterside.QZlarinska obala
ALDURA 15, Zlarin, tel. (+385-22) 55 36 21. Open 07:00 - 01:00.
music indoors…QE‑4, Trg Pavla Šubića 1, tel. (+385-22) Facing the ferry jetty, Aldura is the obvious last port of call
24 44 00. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. (40- (40 - 90kn). P­i­T­6­N­G­B­X­W
for coffee when you are waiting for the Šibenik-Vodice
400kn). P­T­J­A­G­B­X­W boat to come steaming round the headland. It is also a fine KAPELICA
restaurant, serving up seafood pastas, grilled chops and Traditional food in an old green-shuttered house in an
LAMB fresh fish in an atmospheric old building that preserves
plenty of its original stone and timber.QZlarinska obala
alleyway just off the shore, to the left of the ferry land-
MARIN Gulož Restaurant Vodice Archives ing. The interior features lots of homely red brick, and an
8, Zlarin, tel. (+385-22) 55 36 28/(+385-) 091 175 59 75. open hearth for grilling and baking traditional fish dishes.
Standing beside a major junction on the main Zadar- Open 08:00 - 01:00. (45 - 140kn). i­T­6­N­B­X­W
Šibenik road (it’s right opposite the turn-off to Murter is- standards.QFra Jeronima Milete 17, tel. (+385-22) 21 26
land), Marin is one of the most popular mid-journey stop- 74/(+385-) 091 174 32 88. Open 07:00 - 22:00. Closed
offs in this stretch of Dalmatia. Most people come here to Sun. (20 - 60kn). P­i­T­N­G­B­X­W
sample the spit-roast lamb – a specimen can usually be
seen slowly revolving above a log fire outside in the car MARENDA
park. The lamb is priced by weight and served in a mixture A tiny room selling fishy snacks of the anchovy, pilchard
of chunks (expect to get a selection of both lean and fatty and mackerel variety, with the odd bit of squid or hake
cuts), usually with a garnish of spring onion. The menu thrown in for good measure. There is a small table inside
covers most other things in the Adriatic repertoire too, and a wooden bench on the alley outside. Locals frequent-
with fish and squid figuring strongly.QKapela 61, Tisno, ly call in for a glass or two of red wine served from the bar-
tel. (+385-22) 46 60 70. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (35 - 140kn). rel. And don’t be surprised if they suddenly start singing.
P­i­A­L­G­B­X­W QE‑2, Nove crkve 9, tel. (+385-22) 33 60 77/(+385-) 091
893 60 30. Open 08:00 - 00:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed
TORCIDA Sun. (20 - 90kn). P­i­T­J­N­G­B­X
This Šibenik institution is on the Split road that leads
through Boraje. You can choose succulent lamb peka style, MCDONALD’S
or a crispier version roast on a spit, but don’t miss the home Philistines of the world unite! There are moments when
made bread or excellent soups. Bring your Hajduk Split we just can’t live without those golden arches. Dip your
shirt and you might just qualify for a discount!QDonje nuggets here at the Dalmare shopping centre.QDalmare
polje 61, Donje polje, tel. (+385-22) 56 57 48, www. centar, Velimira Škorpika 23, tel. (+385-22) 49 24 20, Open 08:00 - 23:00. (60 - 150kn). Open 08:00 - 24:00. (8 - 40kn).
P­i­A­L­G­B­W P­T­A­G­B­X­W

QUICK EATS This low-budget eatery offers an authentic taste of home-
BUFFET ŠIMUN style cooking. Lunchtime staples like tripice (tripe), fažol
Inexpensive Dalmatian fare in a startlingly orange eatery (bean stew) and jota (thick barley soup) serve to satisfy
near the train station, with hearty soups like bob (beans) the hungry stomach for minimal financial outlay.QFra
augmented by grilled meats, breaded squid, pašticada Jerolima Milete 11, tel. (+385-22) 21 98 69. Open 07:00 -
(beef stewed in prunes) and other Croatian lunchtime 22:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 160kn). P­i­G­W Antonijo Restaurant Archives

18 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 19
Restaurants Restaurants
The big list of desserts includes a lot more than the usual KONJEVRATE
pancake fare.QObala II 22, Krapanj, tel. (+385-) 098 87
00 93. Open 09:00 - 01:00. (40 - 80kn). i­T­N­G­B­ KONOBA VINKO
X­W One word says it all – homemade! Visit this wonderful
family-owned konoba situated on the road from Drniš to
OPAT Šibenik. They breathe local dishes including famous Drniš
Located in a stone house above the shore in Kornat island’s prosciutto, Velebit cheese, and baked dishes under the
Opat bay, this is another well-known port of call among iron bell to various rakija (grappa), liqueurs, cakes and des-
the yachting fraternity, and you might have to call early erts – all can be found at this beautiful local tavern.QUz
in the day if you want to reserve a table for the evening. cestu 57, Konjevrate, tel. (+385-22) 77 87 50/(+385-) 098
Expect the best in traditional Adriatic fare seafood, with 979 34 10, Open 10:30 - 22:00.
shellfish, risottos featuring whatever seafood has been (60 - 120kn). P­A­6­L­G­B­X­W
caught that day, and baked-fish mains.QOtok Kornat 183,
Uvala Opat - Kornati, tel. (+385-) 091 473 25 50/(+385-)
091 224 78 78, Open 08:00 - MURTER
24:00. (150 - 500kn). i­A­6­G­B­X­W BOBA
ŽUT Boba’s large contemporary-style dining room still has a
Also in Žut’s ACI marina, Žut offers outdoor seating un- homely feel, with cookery books crammed into a shelf
der a canopy bordered by shrubs and cacti. Oven-baked in the corner and an open hearth on which food is pre-
fish, octopus baked under a peka, or grilled Kornati lamb pared – delivering a blast of deliciously charcoal-scented
alongside the usual fish and lobster are among the special- grill-smoke to your nostrils as you await the fish or steak
ities.QACI Marina Žut, Žut Island, Kornati National Park, that you ordered earlier. There are good risotto and pasta
tel. (+385-) 091 473 51 55/(+385-) 091 760 56 11, www. choices too, and slow-baked lamb or octopus if you order Open 08:00 - 23:00. (90 - 150kn). it a few hours in advance.QButina 20, Murter, tel. (+385-)
P­i­T­A­6­G­B­X­W 098 948 52 72, Open 12:00 -
24:00. (80 - 180kn). P­A­6­G­B­X­W
TVRĐAVA With a terrace running along the side of cicada-serenaded
Knin’s sole charming restaurant is right at the entrance Čigrađa bay, this is probably the most romantically-situ-
to the town’s one main sight, lodged in the former gate- ated of Murter’s restaurants. The food is first class too, FABRO lobster are the main attractions on an extensive menu,
house of Knin fortress. Grilled meats, pork chops and roast with squid, shellfish and fish dishes prepared to a high With tables and chairs set out along one of Murter’s many although Tic Tac also produces some awesome steaks.
lamb are served up in a characterful two-floor building, standard and backed up by potent local wines.QUvala small-boat piers, Fabro is the perfect spot to enjoy a bit of With outdoor seating in a narrow passageway and on the
with an appealingly grassy outdoor terrace offering some Čigrađa, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 57 05/(+385-) 098 46 maritime scenery. It can be quite hot and sunny here well nearby seafront it’s an atmospheric place for evening din-
stunning views.QFra Luje Maruna 1, Tvrđava, Knin, tel. 19 87. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (80 - 150kn). i­T­A­L­G­ into early evening although as night falls it is a wonderfully ing, although it can be difficult to find a table in season.
(+385-22) 33 51 92. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (35 - 90kn). B­X­W romantic place to dine. If you are travelling out of season QHrokešina 5, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 52 30/(+385-)
T­A­6­G­B­X­W the small and intimate dining room, decked out in nautical 098 86 46 19, Open 12:00 -
souvenirs, is a relaxing place to spend an evening. Fresh 23:00. (100 - 200kn). P­T­A­6­G­B­X­W
fish either grilled or baked is the star of the show, although
the shellfish and steaks are also excellent.QŽabićeva 7, TUNGA RE
Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 45 61. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - Summer-only restaurant set back from the seafront in
200kn). P­i­A­G­B­X­W a small stone house – you may well have to wait before
being seated. Most people come here for the tasty piz-
zas, although there is plenty of choice on a menu that also
An unassuming doorway leads to a surprisingly large
takes in pasta dishes, salads and fried squid.QTurčinova
and homely space, with a pair of huge wooden tables at
2, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 50 28. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
ground-floor level and an expansive seating area upstairs
(30 - 100kn). T­6­N­G­B­X
under the rafters. Kezo’s substantial and inexpensive piz-
zas are the most popular items on the menu, although
there is plenty in the seafood and steak departments to
Announcing itself as a “marisqueria” (a Spanish term mean-
keep more ambitious diners happy.QButina 1, Murter,
ing seafood bar) in big letters above the entrance, “Gone
tel. (+385-) 098 965 89 56/(+385-) 092 301 96 58. Open
with the Wind” is a moderately upmarket establishment
07:00 - 24:00. (60 - 160kn). P­i­T­A­V­G­B­X­
serving up fresh shellfish and crustaceans in smart, unclut-
tered surroundings. You can inspect the fare in tanks and
TIC TAC trays before you actually order. The large and leafy walled
The closest that Murter comes to a cult restaurant, Tic garden at the back is an evocative spot in which to linger
Tac was one of the early innovators in the Adriatic gas- over a meal.QHrvatskih vladara 5, Murter, tel. (+385-22)
tro scene, adding a modern European culinary twist to 43 44 75. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn).
Adriatique Beach Club Archives Croatia’s traditional seafood repertoire. Fish, shellfish and A­6­G­B­W

20 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 21
Restaurants Restaurants
Occupying a back yard that has been roofed over to cre-
ate a high-ceilinged dining space, Nono supplies good-
quality seafood in an environment that is quirkily rustic but
not overburdened with kitsch. Sit on delightfully rickety
wooden chairs, admire the farmstead bric-a-brac hanging
on the walls and tuck in to marinated anchovies, grilled
white fish or - if ordered several hours in advance - octo-
pus baked the traditional way, under a charcoal-covered
Pelegrini Restaurant Archives lid. It’s a family-run place and the wine and prošek come
from their own vineyard.QTrg domovinskog rata 5, Piro-
WINE TASTING vac, tel. (+385-) 099 224 45 84. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (30
- 150kn). i­T­A­G­B­X­W
In the little village of Plastovo near beautiful Skradin
there is a hidden jewel which has even had the famous PRIMOŠTEN
TV food icon Anthony Bourdain visit not so long ago. KAMENAR
The Bibich family have been producing wines for gen- An old stone house with a smart modern interior, Kamenar
erations and these can be found in the finest restau- offers a tasteful combination of traditional home cooking
rants across the US and Europe. With prior reservation, and fine contemporary dining. A range of imaginative sea-
the course meals are on offer for the entire wining and food pastas and risottos will suit the light-lunchers, while
dining experience, not to mention the stroll through steak, lobster and fresh white fish (either grilled whole
their serene winery.QPlastovo, tel. (+385-) 091 323 or served in the form of pan-fried fillets) provide ample
57 29, Open 10:00 - 16:00. P­T­ excuse to linger over a substantial and stylish dinner. Lo-
A­6­L­G­B­X­W cal Babić wine goes well with the red meats, while dry
VINA RAK TASTING ROOM white Pošip from Korčula is the ideal accompaniment to
Fancy a drop! Visitors and tourists alike can taste and the finest fish.QRudina biskupa J. Arnerića 5, Primošten,
sample the domestic production of authentic Šibenik tel. (+385-22) 57 08 89/(+385-) 098 33 62 46, www.
wines such as Babić, Maraština and Rose, better known Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - ROGOZNICA CANTINETTA
ANTONIJO This family restaurant set in a walled courtyard has earned
as Opol in the Dalmatian region and at the lovely Vina 375kn). P­i­J­A­6­G­B­X­W
Sheltered by a clutch of palm trees at the end of Rogozni- an enviable culinary reputation on the back of locally-
Rak Vinoteque, located in the heart of Šibenik.QRa-
MEDITERAN ca’s riva, Antonio offers the whole gamut of Adriatic sea- influenced dishes such as roast lamb. The fish and shell-
kovo selo 98, Dubrava, tel. (+385-) 098 65 20 36/
A walled courtyard with an open kitchen, Mediteran is the food from squelchy squid risottos to succulent lobster, fish are also top class. Cantinetta is so devoted about the
(+385-) 099 724 15 68, Open 11:00
ideal spot for a relaxing evening, with grilled fish or steak with plenty of griddle-cooked fillets of fish in between. authenticity of its notoriously slow-cooked skradinski
- 24:00. P­J­N
the main culinary crowd-pleasers. It’s also an intimate Dalmatinska pržolica (pork chop with garlic) serves as rižot (risotto with veal) that you are advised to order it at
VINO&INO spot for a drink, with high stools set up on the side of the a substantial meaty alternative. The stone-clad interior is least a day in advance. Since the process of cooking is so
A wine bar with world’s biggest collection of wines dining area for those who just want a glass of the house small and intimate, although chances are you’ll end up on complex, they require orders by a minimum of 10 people.
from Šibenik area, and some from other parts of Croa- wine - Babić from the family’s own vineyard.QPut briga the outdoor terrace admiring views of the Frapa yachting QAleja skradinskih svilara 7, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77
tia as well. Their cocktail list puts local flavours into 13, Primošten, tel. (+385-) 098 44 59 45/(+385-22) 57 17 marina across the water.QObala kneza Domagoja 35, 10 24/(+385-) 091 150 64 34. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (50 -
world classics, and their coffee game is strong with Rogoznica, tel. (+385-22) 55 94 11/(+385-) 091 209 63 150kn). P­A­G­B­X­W
80, Open 13:00 - 24:00.
beans lightly roasted in Croatia’s capital. If you are (100 - 150kn). P­T­A­6­G­B­X­W 54, Open 11:00 - 23:00. (60 - PINI
more of a beer lover, make sure to check out their local 200kn). P­A­6­L­G­B­X­W Good home cooking in an interior that blends traditional
craft selection.QE‑3, Fausta Vrančića bb, tel. (+385-) TORKUL bare stone with modern minimalist design touches, or in
091 250 60 22, Open 09:00 - 01:00, Located at the mainland end of the causeway, Torkul of-
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. P­J­A­ fers a familiar mixture of wooden benches and stone SKRADIN the walled garden with its open kitchen. There is a good
selection of grilled meats and fish, with locally caught lo-
6­G­B­X­W walls hung with an enjoyable jumble of bric-a-brac (in- BONACA cal mullet or peka-baked squid the stand-out dishes.QDr.
WINE BAR KAMERINO cluding among other things nautical photographs, a life Skradin’s emergence as one of Dalmatia’s leading gastro- Franje Tuđmana 2, Skradin, tel. (+385-) 098 26 64 95,
Located in the old city centre behind St. James’ Ca- belt, and a tuba). Grilled fish, squid and skampi are among nomic destinations owes a great deal to Bonaca, which Open 07:00 - 23:00. (80 - 120kn). P­­T­
thedral, this exquisite wine bar with its chic modern the highlights, although dishes baked under a peka (no- has a reputation for nurturing local culinary traditions and A­6­L­G­B­X­W
design and exclusive offer of Croatian wines only, is tably octopus with potatoes) are well worth trying if you only using the freshest ingredients – the owner is him-
have the time to call in and order it in advance.QCrnica self a keen fisherman. Classic seafood pasta dishes kick VIDROVAČA
integrated within the City Museum. The bar bears
1, Primošten, tel. (+385-22) 57 06 70 / (+385-) 098 33 off a menu that also includes regional favourites such as Located in a cove south of Skradin and almost underneath
the name of its street location and where according
75 15/(+385-) 098 33 75 15, shellfish, grilled eel and local lamb. A warmly atmospheric the bridge of the Zagreb-Split motorway, the dramatical-
to legend, the master Croatian Renaissance architect
Open 10:00 - 24:00. (70 - 150kn). T­A­6­G­B­X­ interior features exposed stone and brick with nautically- ly-situated Vidrovača is well-nigh inaccessible unless you
Juraj Dalmatinac used to live. There is a terrace for that
S­W themed pictures on the walls, and there’s an outdoor ter- have a boat. Luckily it has its own private jetty beside a
breath of fresh air.QD‑4, Gradska vrata 3, tel. (+385-
race looking down towards Skradin marina.QRokovača 5, small pebble beach, and is very popular with passing
22) 21 43 33. Open 08:00 - 01:00. P­T­J­N­G­
Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77 14 44. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (80 yachtsfolk as a result. Principal culinary attractions in-
B­X­W - 350kn). J­A­6­U­G­B­X­W clude shellfish, scampi and squid. Local meats (including

22 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 23
Restaurants Local Flavour
In a country renowned for its diversity of culinary culture, Krka you will see bobbing floats on the surface of the wa-
the Šibenik region offers a wealth of gastronomic attrac- ter marking the oyster beds. Due to the Krka’s clear waters
tions. As well as the best of Adriatic cuisine, there is a profu- the local mullet (cipalj) has a more delicate taste than else-
sion of distinctive local delicacies too. where in the Adriatic and is a common feature of restaurant
menus as a result. Moving only slightly upstream, the Krka
is also famous for its freshwater trout. Another real delicacy
LOCAL DISHES of the Skradin-Krka area is the eel (jegulja, known locally as
Gulož Restaurant Vodice Archives Pelegrini Archives Fish and shellfish bižot), which is lighter in texture and taste than the more
The waters of the Adriatic are packed with all manner of fatty eels found in the Neretva delta further south.
kid goat) baked under a peka are also on the menu, al- TRIBUNJ fish. Fine white fish such as John Dory (kovač), Sea Bass Roast meats
though they should be ordered a few hours in advance. (brancin) or Sea Bream (orada) is usually grilled and served The maquis-covered hinterland of central Dalmatia pro-
ŠIMUN whole (complete with head, tail, skin and bones) - using
QVidrovača bb, Bilice-Skradin, tel. (+385-) 098 75 72 vides ideal grazing land for sheep, which can be seen nib-
This is an evocatively traditional-style tavern right by the knives, forks, fingers and teeth to prize away all of the white
81, Open 12:00 - 24:00. (100 - bridge into the Old Town, decorated with nautical ropes, bling away on grasses and herbs on the plateau between
300kn). T­6­N­G­B­X­W meat is an essential part of the experience. Fish on restau- Šibenik and Knin. Roast lamb on a spit is a popular local
fishing nets, and the odd wooden cart for good measure.
rant menus is usually priced by the kilogramme - a fish dish, and roadside restaurants on the main out-of-town
ZLATKA Seafood pasta, fresh fish, scampi and lobster are among
that weighs about 300g-400g is usually sufficient for one routes frequently entice travellers to pull over by roasting
If Skradin’s culinary traditions leave you cold (or simply out the principal culinary draws.QUlica ribara 6, Tribunj, tel.
person. Many restaurants do however serve individually- a whole animal in the yard outside. Roast lamb is served by
of pocket) you can always opt for Zlatka’s trusty and inex- (+385-) 091 523 60 04/(+385-22) 44 68 12. Open 12:00 -
24:00. (80 - 200kn). T­J­A­6­G­B­X­W priced fish fillets, aware that foreign visitors often find the weight with on-the-bone cuts frequently included in each
pensive range of substantial salads and pizzas (including whole fish-ordering process a bit confusing. The standard
at least one vegetarian option), served up in a neat and portion - so don’t be too shy to use your hands. Lamb is
accompaniment for fish is mangold (blitva), a green veg- usually served with several shoots of spring onion.
bright dining room or on a terrace fringed by fragrant
rosemary bushes. The family-recipe pašticada (Dalma-
VODICE etable full of healthy minerals. The other traditional way of preparing local lamb and veal
BISTRO GULOŽ Cheaper varieties of fish such as anchovies (srdele or is under a bell-shaped metal lid known as a peka. The
tian stewed beef with prunes) is also well worth trying.
A romantic eatery small in venue and size, but it’s the food inćuni) are often marinated in oil and serve as excellent method requires a big open hearth, with a log fire to gen-
QGrgura Ninskog 2, Skradin, tel. (+385-) 098 905 39
the people want and come back for. Menu dishes are snacks or as an accompaniment to a round of drinks. erate the heat. Meat and potatoes are placed in a fire-side
09/(+385-22) 77 15 71. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (38 - 85kn).
based mainly on fish and seafood as well as homemade Squid (lignje) is one of the most popular items on local pot and covered with the peka lid, which is then covered in
fish paté, burgers, salmon, tuna, swordfish, and fine br- restaurant menus, served grilled or fried in breadcrumbs. hot ashes. The ashes are periodically renewed as the first lot
ZLATNE ŠKOLJKE uschetta. Home grown spices at this time of year make The Šibenik-Skradin area in particular is famous for its start to cool. The whole process takes about two hours, and
A cosy restaurant set back slightly from the seafront, all the difference.QObala matice Hrvatske 14a, Vodice, shellfish, and if you are crossing the bridge over the river results in a wonderfully tender and succulent meal.
the Golden Seashell shelters in a timber-beamed dining tel. (+385-) 095 900 21 45. Open 17:00 - 24:00. (75-160).
room decked out with pictures of local beauty spots. A 6­N­B
high-quality menu brims with seafood pasta, fresh fish
and shellfish, alongside traditional local dishes such as BY GUŠTE
the slow-cooked, veal-based skradinski risotto. Be sure In a stretch of coast full of outstanding grills, this is one of
to leave room for the owner’s own-recipe skradinska the best, cooking up steaks in an open kitchen with wood-
torta.QGrgura Ninskog 9, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77 10 en tables spread out across the paving stones. A cult res-
22, Open 12:00 - 23:00. (80 - taurant with a solid following - reservations are essential in
250kn). P­T­A­G­B­X­W season.QMirka Zore 34b, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 091 201 75
93, Open 18:00 - 24:00. (80 -
160kn). A­G­B­X­W
BROŠČICA Riva-front restaurant decked out in the style of a traditional
A traditional Dalmatian tavern with bare-stone interior, Konoba or tavern and offering a broad range of traditional Photo by Višnja Armbašić
wooden benches and checked tablecloths, and a cov- Dalmatian fare, from seafood baked under a peka-style
ered conservatory-style frontage looking out towards the metal lid to grilled fish, grilled meats and fishy-flavoured
waterfront. The menu ranges from inexpensive pizzas to pastas. The adjoining Makina caffe bar is a popular spot
fresh fish and steaks, with cheap 3-course deals and daily for kicking off an evening, with DJs and occasional live
specials offering excellent value for money.QPut Broščice music acts generating a party atmosphere.QIve Juričev
12, Tisno, tel. (+385-22) 43 81 11. Open 08:00 - 23:00. Cote 20, Vodice, tel. (+385-22) 44 00 15, www.makina-
(35 - 150kn). P­i­T­A­V­G­B­X­W Open 12:00 - 02:00. (25 - 150kn). P­T­J­
Offering restful outdoor eating in a tree-shaded garden TRI PIRUNA
mere steps away from the water, Gina is the perfect place Local delicacy with a fine track record! Enter a typical
to enjoy an evening meal while watching the sun set over Dalmatian tavern (konoba) with some great food on of-
Murter’s humpy profile. Fresh seafood is the main attrac- fer. High on the ‘recommendation list’ is tuna steak, Flo-
tion although pizzas and grill-steaks serve to fill out the rentine steak, black risotto… Sea food is also hot on the
menu. There is a good choice of domestic wines and spir- menu! Wines are local and the service advice is at the right
its.QPut Jazine 9, Tisno, tel. (+385-22) 43 85 80, www. price. The music and the décor all fit the experience!QUl. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (60 - 140kn). P­i­T­A­ Pave Roce 5, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 091 576 7751, www.
6­N­G­B­X­W Open 18:00 - 23:30. A Photo by Višnja Armbašić Dalmatian Ethno Village, Solaris Beach Resort Archives

24 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 25
Local Flavour Coffee & Cakes
Sheep’s-milk cheese
Typical of the Drniš area is sir iz mišine, a sheep’s-milk
cheese that is matured while hanging in a tube of sheeps’ BARONE BISTRO
gut. The smooth-textured cheese has a distinctive aroma Cafe style bistro within the Barone Fortress with beauti-
and taste, and should definitely be sampled if you see it ful panoramic sea views where throughout the entire day
advertised on the menus of local restaurants. visitors can pop in for coffee, but also for those a bit more
peckish they can try small fine snacks of marinated sea-
Olive oil food or local meat delicacies such as prosciutto and šokol.
The whole of Šibenik county is covered in olive plantations. Sample wines from small local producers; Maraština, Bab-
Olive groves that were allowed to run wild in the latter half ic, Debit, Plavina...QF‑1, Put Vuka Mandušića 28. Open
of the 20th century have been returned to cultivation, and 09:00 - 22:00. A­W
new saplings can be seen sprouting from stony slopes
all around the region. Murter is a major centre of olive oil GIRO ESPRESSO
production, although most production is on a small fam- One of central Šibenik’s best options for quality coffee
ily-farm level and it is difficult to find locally-bottled oil in is also one of the most niftily decorated, decked out in a
shops. Many of the locals sell their oil on souvenir stalls in contrasting palette of slate greys and rich reds - includ-
the centre of Murter town in the summer months. ing some fetchingly scarlet plastic-bucket seats. It’s one
The Zlatna Ribica restaurant in Brodarica produces oil of the most popular places in town for a midday caffeine-
which is hot-pressed rather than cold-pressed (so it doesn’t fuelled chinwag. Free wifi brings in a laptop-toting crowd.
qualify for the ‘extra virgin’ label) but it does have a smooth- QE‑3, Zagrebačka 2, tel. (+385-22) 31 01 66. Open 07:00
er taste and texture as a result, and is very good for general - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. P­T­
kitchen use. It is sold at their own oil press (uljara) on the J­N­G­B­X­W
See how homemade liqueurs are made by visiting one of the ‘Real island of Krapanj. Moderato Cantabile Coffe & Cakes Archives
Dalmatia’ gastro tours offered by the Šibenik Plus Agency GRADSKA VIJEĆNICA
Wine and spirits With outdoor seating underneath the arches of Šibenik’s
Šibenik county is a major wine producing region, with Renaissance town hall, this is the place where locals and
vineyards spread out across the hills all along the coast. The visitors alike love to sit and absorb goings-on in the main
most common local wine is the outstanding red Babić, al- square, with the city’s cathedral providing a grandiose
though imported vine strains such as Merlot and Cabernet backdrop. Inside, salmon-pink décor and bronze-painted
Sauvignon also flourish here. The best Babić comes from ceilings convey an aura of olde-worlde style. Tea is served
Primošten, although good-quality Babić is also cultivated old-school-style in a pot, and it’s always worth trying out
along the whole of Šibenik county’s coast. Biggest local the cake of the day.QD‑4, Trg Republike Hrvatske 3, tel.
winery is the Šibenik-based cooperative Vinoplod, which (+385-22) 21 36 05. Open 08:00 - 01:00. T­J­A­6­
produces top-quality Babić alongside mid-price wines G­B­X­W
like Plavina (red) and Debit (white), and inexpensive table
Photo by Višnja Armbašić A contemporary bar with an urban Mediterranean feel that
Based near Skradin, the Bibich winery produces excellent is hot on the heels of ‘drink it up’. They also offer an assort-
Skradin specialities mid-price autochthonous wines such as red Plavina, dry ment of freshly squeezed juices, an even larger selection
Veal is also a basic ingredient in Skradinski rižot (Skradin white Debit, as well as innovative barrel-aged blended
of ‘more beer, more beer’ and other alcoholic beverages
risotto), with the meat cooked slowly for twelve hours wines, and international strains such as the quality red San-
to get your evening going. On friday nights enjoy open
(or two days according to some purists) and the rice be- greal Shiraz.
air concerts.QE‑3, Božidara Petranovića 16. Open 07:00 Šibenik Tourist Board Archives
ing added only at the end. Traditionally this is a ritual dish,
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. X­W
cooked by the men of the town on the eve of a major feast Spirits specific to the Skradin area include rakija od ruža
day. Nowadays you will find it on restaurant menus in Skra- (rose-petal rakija) and liker od žižula (liqueur flavoured
din - although you should stick to the best Skradin restau- with berries from the jujube tree).
rants if you want to eat a version of Skradinski rižot that has
If you value your daily coffee break as your personal mo-
been authentically slow-cooked.
MARAŠTINA ment of nirvana, there could be few better surroundings
Maraština is an old Dalmatian wine sort which can be than these monastery gardens. A true oasis of tranquil-
Skradin is also famous for the Skradinska torta, a cake that
found along most parts of the Croatian coast and is com- ity, the gardens are filled with the scent of old-fashioned
looks like a traditional sponge cake but has a totally dif-
ferent kind of succulence, largely due to the fact that it is mon on the Dalmatian mainland. It is a late bloomer so roses, and you can see capers in their natural habitat rather
made without any flour - the cake’s texture comes instead sunshine and warmth are the key ingredients for its growth. than floating miserably in a pickle jar.QD‑3, Strme stube
from the ground almonds and walnuts that form its prime It has a yellow or golden/yellow colour, with a discreet and 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 25 15/(+385-) 098 34 11 98,
ingredients. Flavoured with orange peel, honey and rose- pleasant aroma. At the 6th Wine Festival held in 2011 in Open 09:00 - 23:00. P­J­A­6­B­X­W
petal brandy, it’s a mouth-wateringly delicious culinary dis- Skradin, maraština took out all the major awards in the
covery for those who haven’t had the good fortune to visit white wine category. Winemakers Dragutin Dobrović from
Skradin before. You’ll find it on the dessert menus of most Pirovac and Ivica Džapo from Oklaj received awards for the
of the town’s restaurants. best white bottled and corked wines. Photo by Višnja Armbašić

26 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 27
Coffee & Cakes Nightlife
thing of a classic in its own right, with a big outdoor ter- Nightlife in Šibenik during the summer takes place on the Live urban an alternative bands do hit the stage for enter-
race and a range of stylish but comfortable spaces within. terraces of the city’s cafes and bars among the narrow tainment on occasions.QUlica bana Josipa Jelačića 2, tel.
After recently receiving a face lift, the elegant interior fits streets and open squares. So, join in and mingle with the (+385-) 091 214 09 56. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00
perfectly with the concept of recharging batteries over a locals. If you’re looking for larger crowds — of the clubbing - 04:00. P­E­N­G­B­X­W
brew. The landscaped terrace is spacious and picturesque. type — attend one of the festivals in the city or surround-
They serve fantastic homemade cakes!QG‑2, Stjepana ing area that offer plenty of different musical genres and
Radića 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 20 36, opportunities to hang out with locals and tourists alike Indoors or outdoors, coffees or cocktails, lunch or dinner,
Open 06:30 - 22:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. P­T­J­N­G­ (visit the Culture & Events section). relaxing or dancing, morning or night, well you might as
B­X­W well tick all of the above because that’s what you get at
AZIMUT CLUB this restaurant and cafe bar. This venue for all occasions
This is the main actor of the Šibenik alternative scene and is situated right on the majestic Banj Beach, declared as
OUT OF TOWN is choc a bloc filled with detail, great ambience, old retro the best Croatian beach by our country’s tourist associa-
furniture, inner garden and more. Live concerts held each tion. Come anytime!QA‑2, Prilaz tvornici 35. Open 08:00
night with exhibitions and theatre thrown in between. - 04:00.
Much favoured by the locals for that all-important first
Fits up to 400 guests so squeeze in and as the inner slo-
coffee of the morning (not to mention any of the numer- SKIPPER
gan says, ‘Find your way’.QC‑3, Obala palih omladinaca
ous coffee breaks taken subsequently throughout the day) Slightly cooler and less frantic than some of the youngster-
2. Open 09:00 - 04:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 -
Leopold’s corner-of-the-square position makes it the ideal frequented bars further east along the Riva, Skipper is a
01:00. A­6­E­G­B­X­W
spot to keep track of comings and goings during the day smartly decorated and warmly intimate bar, with a nice
- and provides a front-row view of the nightly-parade of DOMINO mixture of white and wine-red furnishings and a strange
sun-bronzed holidaymakers that takes over the town in This functional water-front rectangular space is rendered blue-neon glow coming from under the tables. There is
summer. With a strawberry-and-cream interior and chic rather welcoming and homely by a combination of low- a decent choice of beers in bottles, cocktails in the 45-
Nendrick’s Bar Archives elliptical tables, it offers serious competition to Murter’s key lighting, garden-style wicker furnishings, and a pop- 55kn range, and a selection of light summer sandwiches,
other bars in the design stakes too.QRudina 1, Murter, rock menu of background music that is loud enough to ice-cream and natural juices. Comfy chairs and benches
TRAPULA tel. (+385-) 098 989 24 80. Open 07:00 - 01:00. P­T­ keep your feet tapping but not so deafening as to drown are spread across the outdoor terrace and music is some-
Named after a trap used by local fisherfolk, Trapula is N­B­X­W out an evening of good conversation. The clientele here is thing-for-everyone mixture of RnB pop and adult rock.
a pleasant café-bar on the Riva, with a glass-enclosed mildly older than that at the nearby Point (see below) but QA‑3, Obala prvoboraca 12, tel. (+385-) 098 33 74 41.
MIRAGE Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. P­T­J­A­
verandah-type construction tacked on to a smaller and not so long in the tooth that they have lost their appetite
A popular meeting place day and night, Knin’s premier E­N­G­B­X­W
cosier inner sanctum. Bottled beers include cult Croatian for a good party.QA‑3, Obala prvoboraca 17, tel. (+385-)
café-bar is cheerful and chic in equal measure, with easy
ale Velebitsko pivo, while the background music covers fa- 091 522 82 25. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00.
chairs the colour of orange peel arranged around circular THE GODFATHER
miliar international pop-rock territory.QB‑3, Obala palih P­6­E­N­G­B­X­W
omladinaca 12. Open 08:00 - 02:00. September, Octo- black tables, and a floor-to-ceiling curving window look- See if you can find this classic quote from ‘The Godfather’
ber Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. P­T­J­ ing out onto the main street below. If you can’t squeeze EN VOGUE BEACH CLUB movie ‘Keep your friends close, but your enemies even
N­B­X­W into a seat here then the similar Café Baltazar, in the same ‘Barman, we’ll have a cocktail please!’ These can be your closer’, somewhere around this night bar. Inspired by the
building, is a worthy alternative.QVukovarska 2, Knin. words whilst sitting at a water bar under a palm tree at En film in terms of décor, the music is far from that with a
Open 07:00 - 23:00. P­T­6­N­B­X­W Vogue. Welcome to a state of the art holiday experience 50/50 mix of R & B, rock, house and pop.QE‑4, Trg Pavla
CAKES VODOPIJA for those who love summer beach parties to a real chilling Šubića 3, tel. (+385-22) 24 44 00/(+385-) 098 52 68 33.
CASTRUM COFFEE & MORE atmosphere. In-house DJs play the biggest hits all day long Open 18:00 - 04:00.
This main-square café serves reassuringly strong coffee
Right on the fortress of Saint Michael, this café offers and you can choose from swimming pools and Jacuzzis VINTAGE BAR
and delightfully soft and springy krafne (doughnuts),
scenic views of the Adriatic whilst choosing from coffee to cool off in whilst gazing out onto the Šibenik islands. Opened in the summer of 2016, here comes 2017 and
which come either with marmalade filling or with choco-
or freshly squeezed juice amongst other beverages. The QSolaris Beach Resort, Hoteli Solaris 86, tel. (+385-22) things have turned eco-friendly with attention to detail
late icing. In summer they also have a substantial menu of
bake their own fresh cakes and have a variety of types 36 10 01, B­W paid to the interior’s green walls, nature walls, earthy
ice cream, and a large outdoor terrace perfect for evening
and flavours on offer. Cold salads and platters can also be drinking.QTrg Rudina 2/b, Murter. Open 07:00 - 24:00. shades and more. The Vintage Bar offers super cool cock-
ordered. Castrum is the right place for a little break from P­J­N­G­B­W tails, hot coffees and teas. As it is located in the heart of the
sightseeing.QC‑2, St. Michael’s Fortress, Zagrađe 21, tel. One of the busiest outdoor drinking spots in Šibenik is the
patio-style first-floor terrace of Krešimir IV, a superbly situ- city, it’s the perfect breather or time-out between sight-
(+385-) 099 445 90 11, Open
ated venue built into the ancillary buildings of the Francis- seeing.QProlaz Bože Dulibića 4, tel. (+385-) 098 942 37
08:00 - 21:00. B­W
can Monastery and boasting palm top views of the Riva. 80. Open 08:00 - 01:00.
KAVANA LIFE PALACE Inside is a smart and stylish bar perfectly suited for both
Located within a Renaissance building which a stunning
hotel, the ground floor houses a café and pastry shop
sipping coffee and drinking beer - they have an amaz-
ing selection of over 130 different beers, including many
like no other. Around 20 fresh cakes are on offer each day excellent Croatian craft beers.QF‑4, Obala dr. Franje AURORA
which enhance the ritual of sipping on coffee. Choose Tuđmana 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 53 00. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Set on a blustery hillside to the east of town, this palatial-
from the beautiful terrace or stunning palace like interior. Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. P­T­J­E­G­B­X­W looking balustraded building is night-bar, pizzeria and
Must see place for an all-round relaxing rendezvous!QE‑3, club all rolled into one. Live gigs by Croatian pop stars, top
KUGLANA DJs from abroad, and an atmospherically-lit back garden
Trg šibenskih palih boraca 1,
Revamped and ready to roll, this bowling alley has had keep the hordes coming. Heading back down the hill at
Open 07:00 - 24:00. P­B­W
a makeover and is spick and span ready for the summer. dawn is all part of the Primošten experience.QKamenar 3,
MODERATO CANTABILE Those wanting a fun night out with games galore will find Primošten, tel. (+385-) 098 920 19 64, www.auroraclub.
Named after one of the best-known songs by the Šibenik- haven here. Apart from bowling there is billiards, pinball, hr. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. July 15 - August 30 Open
born melody-master Arsen Dedić, this roomy café is some- Photo by Višnja Arambašić darts, TVs with sports channels and a nearby betting store. 23:00 - 05:00. A­6­L­E­G­B­X­W

28 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 29
Nightlife Sightseeing
parties, with DJs and live musicians starting up in the late
afternoon and never seeming to stop. It’s a popular place ESSENTIAL ŠIBENIK
to see and be seen and the best tables are frequently CATHEDRAL OF ST JAMES (KATEDRALA SVE- - March 09:00 and 18:00, Sun 09:30, 11:00, 18:00.QD‑4,
grabbed by posing wannabes, but there is always some TOG JAKOVA) Trg Republike Hrvatske 1. Open 09:30 - 18:30. Admis-
brazen hedonistic fun going on somewhere.QLjudevita With its pale stone dome rising above the city like a gar- sion 20kn.
Gaja 2, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 091 529 56 01. Open 08:00 - gantuan crocus bulb, Šibenik’s magnificent Cathedral
01:00. T­A­6­U­L­E­G­B­X­W exerts a dominating presence over the huddled build- SAINT ANTHONY’S CHANNEL - PROMENADE
ings of the Old Town. In a sense the church here is as See one of the most amazing entrances to a city from
KREŠIMIR the sea. Saint Anthony’s Channel is a 4.4km new prom-
This small wedge-shaped space bathed in blue-ish light old as Šibenik itself, although it is the century-long cam-
Krešimir IV Coffee & Beer Bar
paign of rebuilding initiated in 1431 that produced the enade surrounded by Mediterranean vegetation and
lies in an alleyway just off the square. With at least ten offers stunning panoramic views of the Šibenik archi-
BASADURA varieties of whisk(e)y behind the bar it’s a tempting last imposing edifice that can be seen today.
Frequently halted by lack of funds, construction took pelago. Attractions include the ruins of a 16th century
Wicker chairs, bamboo stools and an outdoor terrace port of call for those who just can’t resist the idea of one tower, a sublime several hundred meter long marine
place in installments, and the new-look cathedral wasn’t
shaded by tropical-island-style thatched parasols add an for the road.QMajinova 5, Murter. Open 07:00 - 02:00. tunnel built for military purposes, beautiful coves that
officially consecrated until 1555. However it brought to-
air of Pacific-Island exotica to this popular café bar on the P­A­B­X­W lay at the end of the channel and are perfect for a swim
gether many of the Adriatic’s finest craftsmen, foremost
Old Town’s island. With seating right by the shore, it’s the among them being the visionary architect Juraj Dalma- or quick dip, and in the vicinity sits the old port and a
perfect location to sip cocktails as the sinking sun throws NOSTRESS NIGHT&BEACH BAR
tinac, and his successor Nikola Firentinac. It was they cave that housed a small church dedicated to St. An-
the local islands into silhouette.QBadnje 9, Tribunj, tel. The crew which runs this place is famous for organising thony. Organised tours, walking, jogging and cycling
great parties the whole year round, and come June they who were responsible for the cathedral’s most innova-
(+385-) 091 733 71 25. Open 07:00 - 02:00. P­T­6­ tive features, the barreled roof and massive cupola both are your best options for a very scenic outside-in view of
G­B­X­W simply move the stage out into the open and next to the Šibenik!QJ/K‑5,
sea. DJs, music, warm nights, all in a place loved by locals built from interlocking stone slabs.
BEACH BAR LANTANA and tourists alike, and all guaranteeing a memorable night Quite apart from its status as a marvel of construction, ŠIBENIK CITY MUSEUM (MUZEJ GRADA
Crouching above the corner of Čigrađa bay is this impro- out.QObala Maratuša bb, Brodarica, tel. (+385-)091 the Cathedral is also a hugely entertaining as a gallery ŠIBENIKA)
vised building that looks a bit like a thatched hut, with 404 10 10. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. of late-Medieval and early-Renaissance sculpture. The A narrow alley, behind the apse of the cathedral, leads
wooden benches underneath a rush-matting canopy, north portal is framed by endearingly primitive statues to the 17th century Rector’s Palace, from where the rep-
and additional chairs and tables set higgledy-piggledy on OPIUM of Adam and Eve (both portrayed covering their private resentative of the Venetian Republic would watch over
This cocktail bar and club in the centre of Vodice, right be- parts in embarrassment) standing on pillars which rest Šibenik’s affairs. It is now home to the City Museum
sloping ground underneath pine trees. There is a wood-
side the ACI marina, aims for a mix of cutting-edge sounds on the backs of lions. They are thought to be the work which only reopened its door for permanent displays af-
burning oven for baking pizzas, a simple menu of pršut
and hedonistic summer fun, and gets its fair share of visit- of Bonino of Milan, a craftsman from Lombardy who was ter a demanding 22 year break for renovations. Exhibited
sandwiches and seafood snacks (such as girice; fried brought in to work on the cathedral at an early stage but
whitebait), and frequent late-night DJ events and rock ing DJs.QTrg hrvatskih mučenika 2, Vodice, tel. (+385-) artefacts are divided into four periods: Prehistory, Antiq-
091 569 50 19, Open 07:00 who died before the reconstruction really got going. uity, Late Antiquity and the Middle Ages.QD‑4, Gradska
gigs during the summer.QUvala Čigrađa, Murter, www. Much more refined in style are the sculptures and reliefs May 15 - October 15 Open 10:00 - - 02:00. Fri, Sat 07:00 - 06:00. July - September Open vrata 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 38 80, www.muzej-sibenik.
07:00 - 06:00. P­T­J­A­6­U­E­G­B­X­W around the outside of the apse, where Juraj Dalmatinac hr. Open 10:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Admission 30kn,
24:00. T­6­N­G­B­X­W provided a frieze of 71 stone heads – which appear to kids by the age of 12 have free entrance.
EXIT CLUB REFUL pop out of the wall just above human height. Thought
A well-patronized party-bar in central Vodice, offering dif- An inviting purple and blue rectangle with a big pool to be modeled on Šibenik characters of Dalmatinac’s THE MEDIEVAL MONASTERY MEDITERRA-
ferent styles of music on different nights. House and tech- table and classic-rock background music, Reful is a wel- acquaintance, they are uniquely lifelike examples of Re- NEAN GARDEN OF ST LAWRENCE (SREDNJO-
no regularly pull the punters in, although you might equal- come antidote to the mainstream sonic wallpaper on offer naissance sculpture and have served as something of a VJEKOVNI SAMOSTANSKI MEDITERANSKI VRT
ly stumble into a Croatian pop evening when everyone is elsewhere. There is a handful of outdoor tables on a raised trademark for the city of Šibenik ever since. Above the SV. LOVRE)
terrace looking towards Hramina beach, and wifi internet frieze, a pair of stone cherubs unfurl a scroll of parch- Laid out by landscape architect Dragutin Kiš and main-
singing along blissfully to songs that you don’t under-
is available for 10kn/hr. Live blues and rock bands perform ment bearing the name of the artist, Juraj Dalmatinac. tained by children from a local high school, the Medi-
stand.QTrg hrvatskih mučenika 2, Vodice, tel. (+385-)
at weekends throughout the year, when the alcove at the You’ll have to crane your neck upwards to catch sight of terranean Garden has become one of Šibenik’s most
095 196 67 19. June 15 - August 31 Open 21:30 - 05:00. popular attractions since opening its gates in 2007.
back of the bar serves as a tiny stage.QSabuni 11, Murter, the statues grouped around the central cupola, all the
P­J­E­N­B­X work of Nikola Firentinac. A winged St Michael is por- Occupying an oblong terrace just above the belfry of St
tel. (+385-) 098 75 74 24. Open 07:00 - 02:00. Septem-
FJAKA BAR ber 16 - October Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - trayed spearing a dragon facing the main square, while Lawrence’s church and surrounded by stone walls, the
Situated in the small Dalmatian village of Brodarica near 02:00. P­T­6­L­E­B­X­W St Mark faces the sea, and St James faces east. Standing garden aims to provide an accurate impression of what
Šibenik, the locals will tell you that Fjaka Bar is one of at roof level at the western end of the cathedral is an An- a medieval monastery garden would have looked like,
Brodarica’s best cafes and bars which during the day is a THE LEGEND’S PUB nunciation scene, also by Firentinac, featuring Archangel and is a marvellously soothing spot in which to enjoy a
typical relaxing place with a care-free Mediterranean feel Occupying a roomy stone house just opposite Primošten’s Gabriel and the Virgin. few moments of retreat. The collection of plants is laid
where one can enjoy excellent coffee, refreshing bever- causeway, Legends features the kind of solid wooden fur- Inside, look out for a sarcophagus of Bishop Juraj Šižgorić out in neat geometric beds and reveals how monastery
ages and delicious meals, and at night the pace picks up niture and green-hued upholstery that makes a pub a pub with an effigy of the reclining bishop carved by Juraj Dal- gardens such as these were highly practical affairs, cul-
as the bar turns into a small nightclub with DJs and live – or at least in the mind of a European holidaymaker. The matinac. The Altar of the Holy Cross bears a late Gothic tivating the herbs and shrubs that were both useful in
semi-circular balcony hovering above the bar area is quite crucifixion carved by Juraj Petrović, fifteenth-century the kitchen and in medieval medicine. Fruit trees and
bands. Feel the vibrations!QObala Maratuša bb, Brodari-
a feature, while floor-to-ceiling photographs of famous Canon of Split Cathedral. Dalmatinac’s greatest mas- roses help to provide additional colour. There is also a
ca, tel. (+385-) 091 200 15 26. Open 08:00–01:00, Fri, Sat
Croatian sporting heroes provide plenty of topics for dis- terpiece is the baptistery (krstionica) in the cathedral’s café with outdoor seating on a garden-side patio, a res-
08:00 - 02:00. P­i­T­6­E­N­G­B­X­W taurant and a souvenir shop. If you have ambitious plans
cussion. Expect DJ events and live music (jazz, blues, and corner, which features a beautifully carved ceiling, and
HOOKAH BAR pop-rock cover bands) throughout the year, with crowds plump cherubs cavorting around the base of the bap- for a herb garden at home, this is the perfect place to
Beach bar in front of the Olympia hotel with armchairs and spilling out onto the sea-facing terrace in summer.QTrg tismal font. Mass: June - August 09:00 and 20:00, Sun come for horticultural inspiration.QD‑3, Strme stube 1,
couches set out on wooden decking beneath the pines, Don Ive Šarića 1, Primošten, tel. (+385-22) 57 02 77, 09:30, 11:00 and 20:00. September, October, April, May tel. (+385-22) 21 25 15/(+385-) 098 34 11 98,
with the billowing curtains of its baldachins looking rather Open 08:00 - 05:00. P­J­ 09:00 and 19:00, Sun 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00. November Open 09:00 - 23:00.
like a shoal of jellyfish. It’s the prime place for after-beach A­6­E­G­B­X­W

30 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 31
Sightseeing Sightseeing
day as “Krešimir’s Town”. Its floor plan has the shape of ded with images of the Virgin Mary, several of which have hall on the other side of the alley by an archway. Mass: Sat
an irregular rectangle. There are two square towers on its been enhanced by the addition of silver-plated halos or 20:00, September Sat at 19:00.The church is open only dur-
eastern side whereas two polygonal towers sit along its crowns. A colourful modern mural of Christ fills the apse. ing mass.QD‑2/E‑2, Ulica Nove Crkve.
northern front. Throughout history, the fortress had been Incidentally, the church hosted one of the first ever theatre
repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt, and it experienced its productions in Šibenik in 1615, when the Poor Clares per-
greatest suffering in 1663 and 1752. Archaeological inves- formed a religious play on the subject of the Three Kings CURIOSITIES
tigations inside the monumental complex have found nu- – the roles were all taken by nuns. Mass Sat 18:00 and Sun AMOR DI CANI
merous remains of material culture dating from prehistoric 09:00.QE‑3, Božidara Petranovića 5, tel. (+385-22) 21 54 Wandering the streets you’ll come upon two stone con-
times to the late Middle Ages. 15. Open 09:00 - 21:00. tainers jutting out of a wall and one has the chiseled in-
Running downhill from the fortress towards the seafront scription, ‘Amor De Cani’ (for the love of dogs). Historically,
CHURCH OF THE HOLY SPIRIT (CRKVA SVETOG animals suffering from rabies often had a fear of water and
are a crenellated set of double walls built in the 15th
DUHA) locals could then identify those who’d keep distant, these
century to provide access to the sea. With recent exten-
Overlooking a small piazza, this dainty 17th-century affair days they serve as a healthy pit stop for cats and dogs
sive reconstruction it has become a great summer stage
is one of central Šibenik’s most attractive little churches, wanting some water.
The Medieval Monastery Mediterranean Garden for various cultural and music events.QC-2, Zagrađe 21, with arched roofline and a central rose window. Half way
of St.Lawrence Archives, www.svmihovil. up the façade is a relief of a bird, symbolizing the spirit THE ŠIBENIK REBUS Open 08:00 - 22:00 Admission 30 - 110kn,
FORTIFICATIONS valid for 7 days, for visitng both, St Michael’s and Bar-
in the title. The church is closed for visitors.QD‑2, Dinko
Zavorović Square.
Dobrić is one of the narrow stepped streets that zig-zags
its way down from the Kalelarga towards the Riva, pass-
BARONE FORTRESS one fortresses. ing a small piazza about half-way down. High up on the
Today’s smart devices are virtual time machines. Don a ST FRANCIS’ CHURCH AND MONASTERY façade of one of the piazza’s houses is Šibenik’s most
pair of augmented reality (AR) glasses and use your smart
phone and step 370 years into the past, to the 1646 Otto-
CHURCHES (CRKVA I SAMOSTAN SVETOG FRANE) enigmatic sight, the Rebus or riddle. It basically consists
Belonging to Šibenik’s main Franciscan Monastery, this of an oblong stone relief bearing five symbols – bird’s
man siege of Šibenik. The defence of the city by the citi- CHURCH OF OUR LADY OUTSIDE THE WALLS church boasts Gothic origins but was given a full Ba- wings, crossed scythes, two wine flagons, a trio of gam-
zens of Šibenik is told through an exhilarating audio and (GOSPA VAN GRADA) roque makeover, with leading 17th-century painter Matej ing dice, and a human skull. The artisan who carved the
video experience taking the viewer right into the centre Overlooking the Poljana is this stately 17th-century church Pončun providing a series of dramatically turbulent altar Rebus was obviously delivering a mischievously morbid
of the action. The siege takes place on Barone Fortress, a with a soaring four-storey belfry. The interior features ex- paintings. message, although opinion differs as to precisely what
fortification hastily built in just under two months lying on travagant red, yellow and white stucco work and a modern A doorway from the square just outside the church’s this is: a cautionary tale about the dangers of drinking and
the hills overlooking the city. The fortress was part of the relief of the Stations of the Cross. Mass: 08:00 and 19:00, main entrance leads through to the monastery court- gaming seems to be part of the explanation. Whatever the
defence system of Šibenik which included three other for- Sun 08:00, 09:30, 11:00, 19:00, in July and August 08:00 yard, where a row of stone buildings contain a range of Rebus is warning you about, it seems certain that you will
tresses and together they served as the last line of defence and 19:00, Sun 08:00, 09:30, 20:00.QF‑1, Fra Stjepana displays dealing with church history, and examples of the be quite dead at the end of it.QE‑3, Dobrić.
against the invading Ottomans. While the other three for- Zlatovića 14, tel. (+385-22) 21 25 77. Open 07:00 - 12:00, monastery library’s rich collection of manuscripts and
tresses were named after sacred buildings, this one was 17:00 - 20:00, Sun only during mass. books. Mass 08:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:00, 10:30 and 19:00.
named after Baron Degenfeld, a hero in the story of the
CHURCH OF ST JOHN (CRKVA SVETOG IVANA) Mass in English can be arranged by appointment.QF‑3, AQUARIUM ŠIBENIK
cities defence. Trg Nikole Tommasea 1, tel. (+385-22) 20 14 80, www.
The fortress soon fell into a state of disrepair after the Otto- This venerable 14th-century lump of stone is famous for
the balustraded staircase on the street-facing side, said Open 07:30 - 19:30.
man invaders were repelled. It was several hundred years
later, in the early 20th century that the city of Šibenik pur- to be the work of prolific stonemason Nikola Firentinac. ST LAWRENCE’S CHURCH (CRKVA SVETOG
chased the fortress and its surrounding land. It eventually Sprouting from the upper part of the balustrade are a se- LOVRE)
gained use as a viewpoint overlooking the city’s marina ries of angels’ heads in relief form, while a severely eroded Completed in the 18th century, the church belongs to a
and archipelago, and as a recreational space for hiking. In lion stands guard at the bottom. The church’s four-storey monastery founded by Franciscan friars from the island of
January 2016, Barone Fortress was finally reopened to the belfry boasts the town’s oldest mechanical clock, made Visovac (see p.62). The monastery was an important centre
public. The opening ceremony celebrated the rich cultural by Ottoman craftsmen and used in Drniš before being of learning, teaching philosophy and theology from 1669.
heritage of the city of Šibenik and marked the 950th an- brought to Šibenik. Inside lies a trio of Baroque altars; the One of its former teachers was Andrija Kaćič-Miošić (1704-
niversary of the first written mention of the city’s name. side altar to the left bears a jolly relief of trumpeting cher- 1760), the Franciscan friar famous for penning Pleasant
QF‑1, Put Vuka Mandušića 28, tel. (+385-) 091 497 55 ubs and skulls. The church is closed for visitors.QD‑2, Put Conversation of the Slav People, one of the first popular
47,, Open igrališta 21. histories of the Croatian nation. Just west of the monastery
08:00-22:00. Admission 30 - 110kn, valid for 7 days, for along Kačićeva and up some steps is the Lourdes Grotto,
CHURCH OF THE ASCENSION (CRKVA USPENIE an artificial cave holding a statue of the Virgin Mary. It was
visitng both, St Michael’s and Barone fortresses. BOGORODICE) built in imitation of the cave near Lourdes in France where
ST MICHAEL’S FORTRESS (TVRĐAVA SVETOG A church of medieval origins, this plain but alluring stone the Virgin is said to have appeared to a local girl in 1858.
MIHOVILA) beauty began life as the Church of the Holy Saviour, and Mass: 18:30, Sun 08:30.QD‑3, Fra Andrije Kačića Miošića
One of the first things that visitors see when entering belonged to the Knights Templars then the Brotherhood Upon entering this old stone house situated 50m from
11, tel. (+385-) 098 87 00 09. Open by prior arrange- the Cathedral, embark on a journey which brings to life
Šibenik by road is the silhouette of St Michael’s Fortress, of Flagellants before becoming the convent church of the ment.
which crowns the pyramidal hill above Šibenik’s Old Town. Poor Clares in the 15th century. A fire in 1725 occasioned the local residents of the Adriatic Sea. This aquarium-
Its importance to the Croatian state is illustrated by the a major rebuild, when a few Baroque details were added. THE NEW CHURCH (NOVA CRKVA) terrarium is a small zoo where you can experience the
number of times that 11th-century Croatian kings brought The convent was closed by Emperor Joseph II, and the Designed by Nikola Firentinac in 1502, the New Church is depths of sea, rivers and lakes and meet various inter-
their court here - Petar Krešimir IV in 1066, Zvonimir in church was handed over to the Orthodox congregation in so-called because it was one of the last to be built within esting fish and reptiles.QD‑4, Kralja Tomislava 15a,
1078, and Stjepan II in 1080. It was during Krešimir’s visit 1808. It has been the centre of Šibenik County’s Orthodox the town walls. It was commissioned by one of Šibenik’s tel. (+385-) 099 212 58 19, www.aquariumsibenik.
that Šibenik was first mentioned in official documents, community ever since. Darkened by the smoke of innu- most prestigious religious brotherhoods, the Brotherhood com. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Admission 37/27 kn.
which explains why the city is sometimes known to this merable candles, the interior contains an iconostasis stud- of St Mary. It is connected to the brotherhood’s ceremonial

32 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 33
Sightseeing Sightseeing
GALLERIES local, and this statue on the square outside the Cathedral
is very much a statement of municipal patriotism as well as
ST CHRYSOGONUS GALLERY a mark of respect for a great architect.QD‑3/4, Trg Repub-
As part of the old Romanic church, the main exhibiting like Hrvatske.
area is designed as the gallery of contemporary art in
Šibenik. Exhibitions by Croatian and international artists PETAR KREŠIMIR IV (1058-1074)
are often organized. The gallery also has a studio and the King Petar Krešimir spent Christmas 1066 here and wrote
Matija Gallery in the historical part of Šibenik.QD‑3, Don a proclamation in which Šibenik was mentioned by name,
Krste Stošića bb, tel. (+385-22) 33 00 49, www.galerija- the first ever historical document that did so. For this rea- Open 09:00 - 12:00, 21:00 - 23:00. son, he’s regarded as something of a founding father by
the locals.QG‑3, Perivoj Robert Visiani.
The exhibiting area as part of the Sveti Krševan Gallery, This broad irregularly shaped square is very much modern
intended for contemporary art. It is located in the old Šibenik’s focal point. It began life as the open space out-
baroque building in the centre of Šibenik.QF‑3, Petra side the town gates where horse races and archery con-
Nakića bb, Open 09:00 - tests would take place. The square’s most distinguished
12:00, 21:00 - 23:00. building is the stately ochre Šibenik Theatre, built in 1870
and patronized by Austro-Hungarian Emperor Franz Jo-
seph during his Dalmatian tour in 1875.
LANDMARKS On the other side of the Poljana stands the boldly contem-
DRAŽEN PETROVIĆ MEMORIAL COURT porary public library, a wedge of modern glass and steel
Šibenik’s most famous sporting son, Dražen Petrović, is built onto the side of a buttressed 16th-century bastion.
well remembered here. In Baldekin, a part of this coastal Occupying a niche on the side of the bastion is a statue
town, alongside a memorial centre, you’ll find a court of the city’s protector, demon-slaying Archangel Michael.
dedicated to this former NBA great.QBaldekin. QG‑2, Poljana.
The great Zadar-born stonemason was resident in Šibenik Running along one side of the square opposite the Cathe-
from 1441 until his death over three decades later, despite dral, this 16th-century Renaissance structure was almost
long absences working in Split, Dubrovnik, Ancona and totally destroyed by allied bombing in 1943, and substan-
elsewhere. Šibenik folk regard him with justification as a tially rebuilt in the aftermath. The beautifully proportioned
colonnaded loggia now houses the Vijećnica café-restau- RELIGIOUS COLLECTIONS
rant, and also forms the backdrop to many of the events TREASURY OF BENEDICTINE NUNNERY OF ST
comprising the annual Šibenik Children’s Festival.QD‑3,
Trg Republike Hrvatske 1.
Behind a plain green door on Kačićeva is one of Šibenik’s
most absorbing attractions, filled with religious objects
PARKS that may not be astronomically valuable but which never-
theless convey a rich love of craftsmanship and sincere de-
PERIVOJ ROBERT VISIANI votion. Most curious and most captivating of the exhibits
Named after the Šibenik-born 19th-century botanist, this is a painted clay Madonna dating from the 13th century. A
stretch of park was laid out in the 1890s, and a section of stone inscription above the entrance honours 17th-cen-
the medieval town wall was demolished to make way for tury benefactor Nikola Buronja, who donated three of his
it. A high proportion of evergreen trees and shrubs en- own houses in the order to help get the monastery started.
sure that the park retains its colour all year round, while QD‑3, Kačićeva bb, tel. (+385-22) 33 83 24. Open 9:00
plantings of lavender, rosemary and sage provide waves - 12:00, 16:30 - 18:00 and by prior arrangement. Sun by
of pleasantly herby scent. The garden was once the site prior arrangement. Admission 10kn.
of a bronze statue of Nikola Tommaseo (1802-1874), the
Šibenik-born Italian-language novelist and critic who had
a profound interest in local Dalmatian culture. It’s now the WELCOME TO ŠIBENIK –
site of a statue of King Petar Krešimir IV.QG‑3. FREE GUIDED TOURS
ŠUBIĆEVAC PARK The Manifesta Agency and Terra Association have
For a taste of the arid Mediterranean landscape that char- partnered up to organise free sightseeing tours of the
acterises central Dalmatia head for this large wooded area city. These guided tours will be held on Tuesdays and
uphill from the centre, where a mazy network of paths Thursdays and start at 18.30 in addition to Saturdays at
leads up and down boulder-strewn knolls covered in a 09:00 - be sure to meet directly in front of the Šibenik
mixture of wiry shrubs and evergreens. There’s a kids’ play- Museum situated on the Riva.
ground near the entrance, and good views over the south-
eastern end of the city from the park’s higher reaches. It’s
also a good start or finishing point for those exploring the
nearby fortresses of St John and Barone.QF‑1, Šubićevac.

34 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 35
Beasties of the coast and hinterland Beasties of the coast and hinterland
decreased over years, the Škopljanac family has helped re- on a little islet. Just like in the famous Croatian knights’
introduce them to the countryside by organizing their now tournament the Alka in Sinj where the leader is called the
famous bullfights. The museum features more than 100 “alaj-čauš”, the donkey race has an “alaj-ćuša” who makes
specimens, bearing witness to 20 years of bullfighting in sure that everything takes place in accordance with the
Radošić. donkey race’s statute and who starts the race with a shot
In the shade of a hundred-year-old oak forest, a protected from his pistol.
monument of nature in the Republic of Croatia, there is a The winner is the first one to cross the finishing line, which,
fenced arena in which the Village Olympics and the bull- bearing in mind the well-known stubbornness of the don-
fights are held. The Village Olympics is a special experience key, is not the easiest thing in the world! Apart from a cash
which encompasses a host of sporting competitions and prize, the winner takes home a statue of a donkey which is
numerous old village games which have been forgotten passed on to the new winner each year. After the end of the
due to the ever-increasing pace of life. Many people take donkey race, the whole town parties until dawn.
part in these games in order to test their strength and their Just across the Tribunj waterfront lies the islet of Logorun
skills in various disciplines such as stone-throwing, arm with the first donkey reserve in the world. It is possible to
wrestling (for women and men), fighting on a shaft, pulling visit the island, where you will find that the island’s only
pistons, donkey racing, throwing a boule into a drum from inhabitants are quite tame and friendly.
horseback, standing long jump and tug-o-war (for women
and men). Tisno
The bullfights are held in a large fenced arena on the last As opposed to the Tribunj race which is reserved only for
Sunday in the month of May. The first bullfight was organ- local competitors, the donkey race in a nearby Tisno is an
Eco-ethno village Škopljanci Archives ized in 1993 and a year later it was officially regulated to international event open to representatives from differ-
protect these noble animals whose nature is to fight and ent countries. Exactly for this reason, the race at Tisno has
The Benkovac Fair lamb roast on a spit, suckling pig, food roasted under the prove their strength. become a tourist phenomenon, especially since the or-
Not so long ago, just thirty years or so, fairs were an every- lid, and a variety of wines from the local vineyards. Those few locals twenty years ago probably couldn’t have ganisers, the “Tišnjanski Tovar” society, decided to include
day occurrence in every small, mid-sized or larger village or The wonderful thing about the Benkovac Fair is not just its imagined that their radical idea would one day attract 10- tourists and emigrants from Tisno into the race in order to
town in Dalmatia. Although that tradition has largely been century-old tradition but the fact that this fair is a part of 15 thousand visitors into their small village every year! popularise the event around the world.
lost today, there are still a few fairs left in Croatia, one of an almost lost way of life in agricultural regions and is an
which deserves a special mention due to the variety of its authentic manifestation of commercial, cultural and ethno- Donkey races Sali
offering and the colourful people who visit – the Benkovac logical heritage. Donkeys are common domestic animals the world over. In Another popular donkey race takes place on the island of
fair. popular culture, donkeys have gained the reputation for Dugi otok, located west of Zadar. The “Saljske užance” festi-
The story of this peculiar fair starts one hundred years ago The Village Olympics and the Bullfight stubbornness and not being exactly the brightest sparks, so val has been held for over 50 years on the weekend before
when the town centre of Benkovac, on the 10th day of eve- About twenty years ago in a small, tumbledown village in many languages including Croatian, the word for donkey the Feast of the Assumption in August. This three day event
ry month (during the summer), would become the venue with few prospects, a number of locals decided to take a (magarac) took on a pejorative meaning. However, because culminates with a traditional donkey race on the Riva, the
of a large livestock fair. It was a place filled with song, laugh- radical step and turn their secluded village into an attrac- donkeys are long-lived (they can reach over 40 years old), town’s waterfront. Once the race is over, prizes (e.g. pršut)
ter and cheer, where guys and girls would dance traditional tive tourist destination that would be renowned far and are sure-footed on rocky terrain such as that found in Dal- are awarded for the fastest donkey and the laziest donkey,
dances and flirt with one another, and where thus many a wide. They wanted to preserve the memory of their pre- matia and don’t need shoeing, for centuries they have been i.e. the last one to cross the finish line. The laziest donkey
love affair was born. decessors by maintaining their peaceful and quiet lives, as used in this region to help with the heavy work. At one and its owner receive a diploma for their efforts.
Soon, Benkovac became the centre of Dalmatia for that one well as their iconic village festivals! time, there would have been more than 40,000 donkeys in Apart from the donkey race, tourists may take part in the
day of the month when tens of thousands of farmers, trad- The eco-ethno village Škopljanci in the Kaštela hinterland Dalmatia whereas now there are just over 1000 of them. preparation of local specialities, listen to the so-called “don-
ers and craftspeople would come here to try to sell every- is a family-owned property with about twenty old stone Although they are not as fast as horses, donkeys can, if they key music”, compete in a variety of traditional sports and
thing “from a needle to an anchor”. houses forming its centre. Twelve of the houses have been must, run as fast as 50 km/h. The revival of donkey racing competitions and enjoy the programme of entertainment
Nowadays, the fair is held outside the centre on six hec- completely renovated down to the finest detail in order is just one of the ways of reintroducing donkeys to the Dal- on Riva.
tares of land including rocky fields and pine forests in a vil- to preserve their original shape, respecting the traditions matian landscape.
lage named Benkovačko selo, an area where people have and the architecture of the region. The village today is a
always made a living from agriculture, livestock and tradi- registered monument of cultural heritage of the Republic Tribunj
tional crafts. Instead of going to soulless shopping centres, of Croatia and is monitored closely by the conservation During summer, a number of donkey races take place along
people come from all over to buy and sell in a rather more department in Trogir. The village’s rich ethnographic col- the coast, but special mention has to go to the oldest rac-
traditional way. Hundreds of traders in livestock and do- lection is exhibited in the Ethnographic museum which ing event in the town of Tribunj. The donkey race in Tribunj
mestic animals, agricultural tools and household wares, as includes more than 800 historical objects of various pur- has been held for 50 years now, every 1 August to honour
well as owners of local restaurants in improvised tents and poses, traditional folk costumes and other preserved items, this hard-working animal which has helped local people
a river of visitors and idlers from all corners of Croatia flow managed by the “Fireplace” folklore association and the throughout the town’s history.
through the fair. Škopljanac family. It all started when local students came up with the idea in
What can you find at the Benkovac Fair? The fair’s most pop- The village has another, a more unique museum dedicated 1952, organising a donkey race during their summer break.
ular products each month depend on the season. People to one important member of their community – the Mu- Since 1957, the race has been held every year with only a
from the fertile central Croatian regions of Prigorje, Podravi- seum of Bulls. Bulls are a part of the tradition of Dalmatian few exceptions.
na and Međimurje bring flour from their mills; those from uplands, of the village of Radošić and of the Škopljanac Only born-and-bred Tribunj locals may take part, usually 12
the market towns of Varaždin and Bjelovar bring calves, and family. In times past, bulls were used to plough the fields of themper race. The donkey riders wear Tribunj folk dress
from the plains of Slavonia mainly pigs and piglets… The and people’s livelihoods depended on them. A household as people used to wear every day for working in the field.
with a bull was considered a wealthy one. As their number The race course goes through the town centre which lies Eco-ethno village Škopljanci Archives
hospitable locals take care of the rich gastronomic offering:
36 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 37
Šibenik Surroundings Šibenik Surroundings
Šibenik County (or Šibensko-kninska županija as it is known SKRADINSKE DELICIJE
in Croatian) offers a huge amount of variety, with swanky This family house in the village of Bićine above Skradin
yachting marinas and party-till-sunrise tourist resorts rub- conceals a characterful konoba strewn with traditional
bing shoulders with archaic villages and large tracts of household nick-nacks, with grandma’s old frying pans
sun-parched Mediterranean maquis. The Krka and Kornati hanging from the ceiling and bunches of dried herbs
national parks are the two must-do daytrips, although with placed at strategic locations around the walls. The menu
islands, coves and stony hillsides in abundance, you’re un- concentrates on cured meats, Adriatic seafood and local
likely to be stuck for natural beauty spots. lamb, although you should ring in advance to reserve a
table. The family make their own honeys, rakija and mar-
malade - a selection of which are always on sale.QBićine
AGRITOURISM Velike 31, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77 13 48/(+385-) 091
BANOVI DVORI 520 93 30, Open by prior
Twelve kilometres inland from Tisno on a well-signed arrangement.
country road, Banovi dvori serves up authentic local cu-
linary treats in a modern but nevertheless atmospheric
dining room with wooden ceiling beams, stuffed animals BIKING
above the bar, and an all-pervading aroma of good cook- There is a growing choice of activity opportunities on the
ing. Speciality of the house is lamb or veal cooked under a mainland too, with cycling and hiking the increasingly
peka, a metal lid covered in glowing embers. These meals popular draws.
take two hours to prepare, which is why it is a good idea In the Skradin/Krka area, there are marked cycle paths
to ring and reserve early in the day - or risk going hungry. from Skradin to the waterfalls of Skradinski buk, and from
Accompanied by potatoes baked in the same pot, the re- Skradin to the Bribirska Glavica archeological site. There are
sulting meals are wonderfully succulent and generously- a couple of bicycle rental points in Skradin during the sum-
portioned: ask for a doggy bag if you can’t quite finish your mer.
dinner off in one go. The house wine (red Plavina or white Some of the most exhilarating cycle itineraries are in hin-
Debit) comes from the owner’s back-garden plantation. terland of Primošten, where a network of marked routes
He sells self-produced olive oil, honey and rakija to boot. make use of both tarmac roads and gravelly off-road trails
QDubrava kod Tisnog, Tisno, tel. (+385- 22) 46 63 79/ to explore ancient villages such as Draga, Široke and Burnji
(+385-) 098 33 68 85, https://banovidvori.fullbusiness. together with their hillside-hugging vineyards and olive
com/. Open by prior arrangement. groves.
Vodice has its marked cycling roads that connect all the
ETNOLAND archeological and cultural landmarks on the mainland, as
Set out on a journey, into the heart of Dalmatian culture. well as the road for the Croatian Cup - MTB tour as well.
Starting in serene Pakovo Selo, you can take a 1 hour The island of Murter is also good for biking, especially in
award-winning tour (guided or self guided) through the spring and autumn when there is not too much traffic on
village where you will listen to ancient tales, see and learn the roads.
about Dalmatian customs and traditions, walk through au- At the northwestern end of Šibenik county, the seaside re-
thentic stone houses, and more. According to your wishes, sort of Pirovac provides access to the eastern end of the
Hotel Zora Primošten Archives a traditional dinner or lunch is provided with roast under Vransko Jezero nature park, where several biking trails have
the iron bell, grappa, wine, and prosciutto tasting. The been marked.
tour is arranged by appointment and there are packages You can get a map at any of the respective tourist offices.
available which include transport at –
Inland from Šibenik
Great escapes
Awarded the best tourist attraction offer in continental
Croatia, 2012 and best interpretation of cultural heritage
in Croatia 2016.QPut Čikole 4, Pakovo Selo, Drniš, tel. Inland from Šibenik lies a dry rocky plateau characterized
(+385-) 099 220 02 00, Open by by jagged chunks of limestone and a scattering of wiry
prior arrangement. Admission 15 - 55€. shrubs. Here and there the maquis has been cleared to
provide space for vineyards, olive groves and pastures, the
KALPIĆ plots divided up by dry-stone walls. Despite the existence
WHERE TO VENTURE OUT FOR AN There’s a feel to this homestead; the stunning old stone of major towns like Drniš, Knin and Skradin, large tracts of
house - built in the traditional style and located near the land feature little apart from isolated farmsteads and end-
ADVENTURE Krka National Park - is an eye catcher. Then there’s the taste of-the-road villages, many featuring the rough-hewn stone
of life and cuisine from the typical Dalmatian countryside. architecture typical to this part of Dalmatia.
Here you will find a garden with home-grown vegetables, The river Krka is the area’s main natural feature and the Krka
traditional local specialties such as baked bread, prosciut- National Park is the most-visited regional sight - the park is
to, smoked ham, cheese, and roasted peka meals...para- covered under a separate section below.
dise on earth.QKalpići 4, Lozovac, tel. (+385-) 091 584
55 20, Open by prior arrangement.

38 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 39
Šibenik Surroundings Šibenik Surroundings
Hugging the high ground above the Čikola river, Drniš was Sprawled across a green plain overlooked by the bleak
a medieval fortress town before falling to the Ottoman Dinara mountains, Knin has long been a town of cru-
Turks in 1522. Nowadays it is an important market centre cial strategic importance, controlling the medieval trade
midway along the main road from Šibenik to Knin. routes linking Dalmatia with the Balkan interior, and in
Ruins of the medieval fortress poke up from the Gradina, more recent times the location of a major railway junc-
the rocky hill above town. Little remains of this medieval tion. It’s most famous sight is Knin fortress, an impressively
strongpoint save for a stark portion of the southern tower, well-preserved agglomeration of crag-hugging walls and
which pokes up from the hill like a bad tooth. Nearby is a towers that hovers above the winding Krka river. An im-
minaret dating from around 1500, all that’s left of an Otto- portant strongpoint from the 10th century onwards, Knin
man-era mosque. Thanks to a new lighting system installed became the capital of Croatia under King Zvonimir (ruled
in December 2010, these ruins are dramatically illuminated 1076-1089), a status it retained until 1097 when Croatia ac-
at night. cepted the rule of the Hungarian crown. Knin remained a
Occupying pride of place in the town itself is St Anthony’s much-coveted military prize, falling to the Ottoman Turks THE IVAN MEŠTROVIĆ MUSEUM – THE CHURCH Baroque parish church with a free-standing belfry. From
Church, a 16th-century mosque that was converted to in 1522, who were in turn turfed out by the Venetians in OF THE HOLY REDEEMER here a pedestrianized main street heads north, with an
Catholic use in the 1670s by Franciscan monks from nearby 1688. Knin served as the headquarters of Serbian-occupied QOtavice, Village Ružić, tel. (+385-) 098 40 75 38, atmospheric sequence of arched alleyways leading off on
Visovac. Housed in the former home of Drniš politician territory during the 1991-1995 war, and the raising of the Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. either side. Constantly busy with fishing vessels and yachts,
Nikola Adžija (1875-1972), the Municipal Museum has ar- Croatian flag over Knin fortress in August 1995 brought a Admission 15/10 kn. Skradin’s waterfront is also the departure point for shuttle-
cheological and ethnological displays alongside a collec- highly symbolic end to hostilities. boats into the Krka National Park (see p.60).
tion of works by Croatia’s greatest sculptor Ivan Meštrović Central Knin is not a wildly exciting place, and it’s best to
(1883-1962), who spent his early years in nearby Otavice. make your way straight to the fortress. The steep climb is PAKOVO SELO SKRADIN TOURIST BOARD
Adžija was one of the early supporters of the young rewarded by superb views of the surrounding countryside, Twenty kilometres north of Šibenik on the main road to QTrg Male Gospe 3, tel. (+385-22) 77 13 29/(+385-22)
Meštrović, helping to raise money that paid for the promis- with the mountains of the Dinara range filling the north- Knin, Pakovo Selo is a traditional inland-Dalmatian village 77 13 06, Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed
ing local lad’s studies. ern horizon. The fortress itself is an extensive and highly famous for its sheep - and its tasty sheep’s cheese, sir iz Sat, Sun.
evocative complex of fortifications constructed at differ- mišine, matured the traditional way by being stuffed into
CITY MUSEUM OF DRNIŠ ent stages, filled with a maze of cobbled alleys, ramps and a tube made of sheep entrails. Pakovo Selo owes its place SKRADIN TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE
QDomovinskog rata 54, tel. (+385-22) 88 67 74. Open stairways beneath ivy-covered walls. Spearing up from on the global tourist map to Etnoland, an ethnographic QŠibenska 1, tel. (+385-22) 77 13 06/(+385-22) 77 13 29,
08:00 - 10:00, 11:00 - 13:00. Sat and Sun closed. Admis- the highest point of the fortress is a flagpole hung with theme park that aims to introduce visitors to the traditional Open 08:00 - 20:00.
sion 5kn. an unusually large Croatian tricolor, a reminder of Knin’s lifestyles of the Dalmatian karst. Just off the village’s main

highly significant place in the history of modern Croatia. In
the eastern part of the fortress, a former barrack building
crossroads, Etnoland is a walled complex containing a
collection of traditional stone buildings, each holding a
QDomovinskog rata 5, tel. (+385-22) 88 86 19/(+385) houses an ethnographic collection displaying costumes display of olde-worlde furnishings that reveal something The islands of Krapanj, Zlarin, Prvić, Kaprije and Žirje may
095 968 04 20, Open 07:00 - 15:00. and agricultural implements from the Knin region. Nearby, about Dalmatian life a century or so ago. Etnoland is seem close to Šibenik geographically, but are light years
Closed Sat, Sun. the fortress’s former hospital plays host to an archeological geared up to receiving pre-booked groups, and individual away in terms of atmosphere. Featuring stone-built set-
museum. tourists should reserve well in advance and be prepared to tlements that appear to have changed little in decades
pay the full group price. The standard tour lasts 2.5 hour, (perhaps even centuries), surrounded by relatively unspoilt
KNIN TOURIST BOARD and includes a welcome swig of rakija, a spot of pršut-and- nature, they offer an entirely different experience of the
QTuđmanova 24, tel. (+385-22) 66 48 22, wine tasting, awarded guide tour of the displays and a full Adriatic. Getting to the islands is easy: Krapanj is acces-
hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. meal. For more information see Agritourism on page 45. sible by boat (roughly hourly) from Brodarica, the coastal
village 7km southeast of Šibenik; while Zlarin and Prvić lie
MUSEUM OF THE TOWN OF KNIN on the route of the Šibenik-Vodice ferry (2-4 daily depend-
QFra Luje Maruna 1, tel. (+385-22) 66 17 02, www. SKRADIN ing on season). A separate ferry service (1-2 daily) sails from Open 08:00 - 18:00. Admission 20/15 Squeezed into a sheltered bay near the point where the riv- Šibenik to Žirje and Kaprije.
kn. er Krka flows into the Prukljansko Lake, Skradin was a flour-
ishing settlement in the Illyrian and Roman periods (when
OTAVICE it was known as Scardona), and subsequently served as
the 13th-century power-base for the Šubić princes of Bri- Named after the locally abundant caper (kapar in Croatian),
Ten kilometres east of Drniš, the sleepy village of Otavice is bir, one of Croatia’s leading aristocratic clans. Skradin fell to Kaprije is a blissfully unspoiled island with no roads and
celebrated for the domed grey Church of the Holy Redeem- the Ottomans in 1522 and most of its population fled to hardly any motor vehicles of any sort (officially it’s a car free
er that squats on a low hill on the fringes of the village. It Šibenik, although it was regained by the Venetians in 1684. island, although there are a few old wrecks dotted around
was built in to serve as a family mausoleum by the sculp- Nowadays it is an important stepping-stone for tourists the place that got here somehow). The small village of Ka-
tor Ivan Meštrović, who spent much of his childhood here bound for the Krka National Park, and an important inland prije caters for the hundred-or-so permanent inhabitants.
before pursuing a long and fruitful artistic career in Vienna, stopping-off point for yachtsfolk touring the Adriatic coast. Private rooms and apartments cater for a summer influx
Zagreb then the USA. Begun in 1926, the building contains Skradin is increasingly well known as a gastronomic desti- of tourists, although the island is never in danger of being
some of Meštrović’s most haunting reliefs, with an ethereal nation, too, boasting a handful of restaurants offering su- overrun. Kaprije’s uniquely sheltered bay is an increasingly
Crucifixion flanked by serene portrayals of the Evangelists. perb seafood and some unique regional treats. popular anchor-dropping point for yachtsfolk exploring the
Mass is only held here once a month, but the church is Lapped by the waters of the Krka, Skradin’s Old Town is cen- nearby Kornati, while the island’s numerous coves are ideal
Photo by Višnja Arambašić open as a tourist attraction during whole year. tred on the triangular Trg Male Gospe, site of a handsome- for a spot of secretive bathing.

40 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 41
Šibenik Surroundings Šibenik Surroundings
PRVIĆ island, and several souvenir shops open up in summer to
sell coral bracelets and earrings. Zlarin village is a beautiful LITTLE DONKEY
In many ways Prvić is a smaller version of Zlarin, a verdant settlement of stone-built houses arranged around a bay.
and unspoiled island with plenty in the way of traditional Key landmark is the impressive clocktower built in 1829 Strong, surefooted and not afraid of the sun, the don-
Mediterranean architecture. It has two main settlements and known as the Leroj (local version of the Italian word for key was once such a common sight in Dalmatia that
- Prvić Luka at the eastern end, and Šepurine at the west clock, orologio), crowned by an attractively spindly weather for Croatian people donkeys are synonymous with the
- Prvić has a slightly larger permanent population and is vane. Slightly uphill to the west is the 18th-century Church region. While the standard Croatian word for donkey is
marginally more lively as a result. Prvić was traditionally of the Assumption, worth a peek on account of the hairy- magarac, in Dalmatian dialect the word used is tovar,
the summer retreat of Šibenik’s leading families, and re- looking gargoyles gazing down from either side of the which is related to the word for loading goods or a
mains associated with one great Šibenik name in particular pediment. Occupying a stone house at the eastern end of burden. Inland folks unkindly refer to Dalmatian people
- priest, diplomat and scientist Faust Vrančić (1551-1617). town, Zlarin Museum displays finds from a shipwrecked as tovari, while the Dalmatians themselves (including
Vrančić was buried in Prvić Luka’s parish church. Educated Roman galley found by marine archeologists just off the Hajduk Split fans) wear the badge with pride.
in Padua, Vrančić served at the Habsburg court in Prague Šibenik coast, and an “ethnographic room” containing do- For centuries donkeys were used to carry heavy goods
before devoting himself to his writings. His Latin-Italian- mestic utensils and traditional costumes. The upper floor such as wood across the rocky terrain of the hinterland
German-Hungarian-Croatian dictionary (published in of the same building houses the Zlarinka coral workshop, and islands, and many families had a few of the animals
1595) was a landmark in Croatian language study. His where coral is cut, burnished and made into jewelry. You to help with regular tasks. Donkey hooves are smaller
more famous Machinae Novae, published in Venice in can admire all manner of necklaces, bangles and baubles in and tougher than horses’, and since donkeys can sur-
1615, contains 49 copper-plate engravings of machines the Zlarinka shop, and take a peek at the polishing process vive on the meagre grass and scrub around here they’re
and inventions, in conscious homage to the inventions of in the work-room next door. Further east, the Chapel of St perfect for this terrain.
Leonardo da Vinci published several decades earlier. Most Simon (Crkvica sv. Šime) has a small collection of church Nowadays, of course, people have other ways of trans-
famous of the illustrations is Homo Volans, which pictures treasures, open in the summer months. Continue along
a man descending through the air attached to a square porting things around, and ever fewer people live from
the road past the chapel and you’ll arrive after 10 minutes
canvas parachute. English clergyman and scientist John agriculture. So the braying of a donkey has become a
at the Church of Our Lady of Raselj (Gospe od Raselje), a
Wilkins, writing some 30 years later, claimed that Vrančić church of medieval origins that contains a miracle-working rare sound on our holidays, just a reminder of a disap-
actually tested the parachute himself by jumping from the image of the Virgin. Inside, model ships hang from the ceil- pearing way of life.
belfry of St Mark’s Cathedral in Venice. A narrow lane leads ing as a gesture of thanks from devout sailors. However, thanks to a number of enthusiasts, there has
over the brow of a hill from Prvić Luka to the island’s other been a revival of donkey-breeding in the past few years.
settlement, Šepurine. A hive-like village of stone houses, ETNO MUSEUM ZLARINKA Kids, of course, love donkeys, so they’re a tourist attrac-
Šepurine is centred on a parish church whose distinctive QNiz Bebana bb, tel. (+385-22 ) 55 37 33/(+385-) 098 tion in their own right. Some towns, notably Tribunj
Nora, a girl from Zadar wearing Prvić traditional folk costume. 87 03 76. Open 10:00 - 13:30, 16:30 - 20:00, Sun by prior
bulbous belfry is topped by an extravagant weather vane. near Šibenik, hold donkey races - a fun evening out in
Photo by Zvonimir Čuvalo arrangement. Admission 10/5 kn. the summer. And some folks are selling donkey milk for
THE FAUST VRANČIĆ MEMORIAL CENTRE its health-giving and beautifying properties. (Cleopatra
KRAPANJ Venice, 16th century, Vrančić takes the plunge and makes
The highest point of the Klepac Island is 169 meters high knew a good thing when she saw it).
Lying only 300 metres off the shore of Brodarica, the low- it! You are looking at the first formal inventor of the para-
and the church of Mary from Rašelj was to be built there. So, if you see a donkey while you’re in Dalmatia, be sure
chute. Being a polymath, he was born in Šibenik and was
lying island of Krapanj was once famous for being the cen- Things however did not go to plan - a group of people to give it a friendly pat. Just don’t mention the word
buried on the island of Privy, home to this centre where
tre of the Adriatic sponge industry, with most of the island’s found a piece of wood with the image of the Madonna in “stubborn”. We’d rather say the donkey knows it’s own
you can see drawings, book collections, models and pro-
male population devoting their time to sponge-diving. totypes of his numerous inventions. Includes multimedia Zlarin (the place of today’s church) and they took it up to mind and will be glad to oblige you - just so long as
Nowadays Krapanj is a relatively quiet but undoubtedly displays and educational games for youngsters!QI Ulica Klepac to the place of the planned church. The next morn- you ask nicely!
attractive spot, with a line of stone houses along the main- ing, that same wooden image of the Madonna appeared
1a, Prvić Luka, Prvić Island, tel. (+385-22) 44 81 28,
land-facing waterfront, and a handful of souvenir shops in Zlarin where it was found, and from there it was decided Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed
selling sponge-themed gifts. that that would be the home of the church in Zlarin.
Sun. June 15 - September 15 Open 09:00 - 22:00, Mon
Slightly inland from the shoreline is the Franciscan Mon- 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 30/15 kn. ZLARIN TOURIST BOARD
astery, founded in 1435 when monks from Bosnia were QSunčana obala 14, tel. (+385-22) 55 35 57,
gifted the island by local nobles. The monastery museum VODICE TOURIST BOARD June 15 - September 15 Open 09:00 - 13:00,
contains religious artworks, including an extraordinarily ex- QObala Vladimira Nazora bb, tel. (+385-22) 44 38 88,
18:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00.
pressive 15th-century crucifix carved by Split-based priest Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.
Juraj Petrović. The walled graveyard next door contains
several family tombs honouring one-time sponge divers, ZLARIN ŽIRJE
many pictured in relief form wearing their large spherical Of Šibenik County’s permanently populated islands, Žirje is
Lying right opposite St Anthony’s Channel, the narrow
deep-sea helmets. Head to the basement of the nearby both the largest, and the furthest out to sea. With a scat-
waterway that connects Šibenik with the open sea, Zlarin
Hotel Spongiola (see p.17) to find a small but entertaining is a green island covered in olive groves and wild shrubs. tering of private accommodation but no hotels (and, like
display of exhibits connected with the local sponge-har- Zlarin has got the longest island promenade in Croatia Kaprije, virtually no motor transport), it is something of a
vesting industry, including a lead-booted diving suit, and (127.50m). Saint Fortunato is the protector of the island Shangri-la among tourists for whom the phrase “getting
early 20th-century air pumps. Zlarin so the most frequent names on the island are Srećko, away from it all” really means what it says. Most of the island
Nato and Refortunato! Coral fishing has been associated is covered in maquis, although vines, olives and figs make
BRODARICA - KRAPANJ TOURIST BOARD with the island ever since the 15th century, when the raw up an important part of the landscape. Newly marked bi-
QKrapanjskih spužvara 1, Brodarica, tel. (+385-22) 35 coral was exported to Dubrovnik and other cities to be cycle- and footpaths provide an ideal means of exploring
06 12, June, September Open processed into fashion accessories. During the 1950s coral the island.
08:00 - 20:00, Sun closed. July, August Open 08:00 - fishing went into decline due to depleted stocks, although
20:00. at least one coral-processing workshop still exists on the Faust Vrančić Memorial Centre

42 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 43
Šibenik Surroundings Šibenik Surroundings
National parks Boat tours of the Kornati islands are available throughout
the summer, most departing at around 09:00 and return-
ing towards 18:00. Most of the tourist agencies from Zadar
KORNATI to Primošten offer these trips - expect to pay 250-300Kn
per person, including lunch on the boat or one of the is-
Croatia is a country full of spectacular maritime landscapes, lands and maybe the odd glass of wine on the journey
and the Kornati Islands represent one of the most bewitch- back. These day trips provide a general idea of the Kornati
ing of the lot. An archipelago comprising roughly 150 is- landscape, but to appreciate them to the full you most
lands, the largely uninhabited Kornati are famous for exud- definitely need your own boat – and a couple of days to
ing a barren, bleak mystique. Most of the islands are arid spare. For yachtsmen, ACI marinas exist on the island of
affairs, with a thin covering of tawny-brown grass punctu- Piškera, inside the boundaries of the Park, and on Žut, just
ated by limestone outcrops and spiky shrubs. Many of the outside it. Yachtsmen will have to buy an entrance ticket to
islands on the western side of the archipelago feature spec- the national park, sold by the Kornati National Park office in
tacular cliffs, rising some 80 metres above sea level in the Murter, marinas in the islands themselves, in some charter
case of those on the island of Klobučar, while man-made companies, travel agencies from Zadar to Primošten. Or
features include the dry-stone walls that streak across age- from the receptionist in the “mobile” receptions who are
old pasturelands. Lapped by clear seas, the islands con- patrolling the Kornati waters by speedboats.
stitute an area of extraordinary natural beauty, and 89 of
them fall under the protection of the Kornati National Park, QButina 2, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 57 40,
founded in 1980. Entrance tickets cost 240 - 10 000kn depend-
Eighty percent of the Kornati are privately owned by fami- ing on the size of the boat and period of the year.
lies from Murter, who use the islands to graze sheep, plant
olives or harvest honey – as well as fishing in the seafood-
rich surrounding waters. The islands have no permanent
population, although parts of the archipelago are season- Much of the landscape inland from Šibenik is shaped by the
ally inhabited by Murter shepherds, marina staff serving Krka, the 72.5km-long river that rises in the arid karst near
the summer influx of yachting folk, or tourists seeking Knin before flowing towards the Adriatic via a spectacular
complete seclusion. The church of our Lady of Tarac on the series of rugged canyons, azure lakes and tumbling water-
island of Kornat is still the focus of an annual pilgrimage falls. The valley’s most dramatic stretches, between Skradin
on the first Sunday of July, when the population of Murter and 3.5km downstream of Knin, fall under the protection
of the Krka National Park (Nacionalni park Krka), which is About 90% of these visitors never get any further than Skra- Open 09:00 -20:00) on the road from Kistanje towards Knin
heads for the island in a festive flotilla of boats. dinski buk (the most dramatic of seven sets of rapids within and the last one is Kistanje (Open 10:00 - 18:00 July, Au-
visited by an average of one million people a year.
the park), whose foaming waters are reproduced on the gust Open 10:00 - 20:00). (During the other months please
cover of many a tourist brochure. However there is much check the Park’s Web site or give them a call to check open-
more to the Krka than Skradinski buk, especially in the up- ing hours.) Daily tickets (180kn adults, children 130kn)
per (northern) reaches of the park, where visitor facilities and three-visit tickets (320kn adults, children 200kn) that
and trekking routes are recently being developed. Fauna in includes three visits to the Park within a one week period
the park includes roe deer, wild boar, and the more elusive from the date of purchase and can be bought at Skradin
wolves and badgers. The rocky sides of the valley play host branch office or at the entrance points described above.
to various communities of bats, who play an important role The ticket price includes rides on the national park’s shuttle
in eating mosquitoes and other irritating waterside insects. boats from Skradin to Skradinski buk, but does not include
It’s also an area rich in historical resonances, with ruins of travel on excursion boats heading further north into the
fortresses recalling the region’s erstwhile status as a dis- park – these must be paid for separately.
puted borderland between warring empires, and waterside
monasteries providing evidence of a rich spiritual culture.
Visiting the park
There are five main entrance points to the park. The first is
the town of Skradin (Open 08:00 - 18:00 July, August Open
08:00 - 20:00) where the National Park Information Centre
sells tickets, provides brochures, and contains an educative
audio-visual display detailing the flora and fauna of the
park. There is also a boat service (hourly in season) from Sk-
radin to Skradinski buk. The second is Lozovac (Open 08:00
- 18:00 July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00), on the plateau
above the Krka, from where you can descend to Skradinski
buk either on foot (20min) or via shuttle bus. The third is
Roški slap (June - August Open 09:00 - 20:00), although
the road is narrow and there is not much parking space.
Kornati National Park Archives The fourth is at Burnum (Open 10:00 - 18:00 July, August Krka National Park Archives

44 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 45
Šibenik Surroundings Šibenik Surroundings
Skradinski buk cursion boats is Visovac Monastery, picturesquely located
Most popular part of the park is Skradinski buk, where the on an island 7km upstream from Skradinski buk. A Francis-
Krka flows over a series of waterfalls and rapids formed by can foundation has existed on this site since at least the
the gradual build up of dam-like barriers of travertine, the 14th century, although the church we see today was built
limestone sediment that settles on branches, grasses and in 1576. Long a centre of Catholic Christianity in the region,
moss to form a solid substance. This is very much an ongo- it nowadays holds a seminary, as well as being the site of a
ing process, with Skradinski buk’s travertine barriers grow- much-visited church. A decree issued by Ottoman Sultan
ing and changing shape at a rate of 1-2mm per year. The Mehmet IV, returning Visovac to the Franciscans in 1674, is
travertine at Skradinski buk has created 17 principal falls, held in the monastery treasury. Upstream from Visovac, the
each of which is made up of multiple cataracts. The place ruins of Kamičak fortress can be seen on the cliffs above the
gets its name from the Croatian word buka (“racket”), a ref- eastern shore. Again built by the Nelipić family in the 13th
erence to the noise generated by the water rushing over century, it was demolished by the conquering Ottomans
the rapids. Skradinski buk was once a milling settlement after 1522.
at which the rushing waters of the Krka were harnessed
to power a variety of machines. Some of the stone mill Roški slap
buildings have been restored, and visitors can see working Excursion boats continue from Visovac to Roški slap 5km
examples of flour and fulling mills, alongside displays of tra- north, a barrier of foaming waterfalls and cataracts that
ditional costumes and agricultural implements. marks the northern end of Visovac lake. Roški slap is also
Just below the mills is the Imperial Belvedere (Carski vidik- accessible by car from the west (via minor roads from
ovac), a small balustrade lookout point built for visiting Đevrske) or the east (via minor roads from Pakovo Selo),
Habsburg monarch Franz Joseph I in 1875. although parking space is limited when you get there. As at
A little further downstream are the ruins of Jaruga 1, the Skradinski buk, there is a restored millers’ settlement beside
hydroelectric power station built by Šibenik mayor Ante the river, with displays of milling and weaving techniques
Šupuk and brother Marko Šupuk in 1895. It was the sec- inside.
ond AC-generating hydroelectric project in the world, the
Forbes dam on the Niagara Falls having been completed Krka Monastery and beyond
just months previously. The Šupuks formed a private com- Located on the western bank of the Krka about 10km north
pany in order to build and manage the power station, the of Roški slap (and accessible via minor road from Kistanje),
first of its kind in Dalmatia. When Šupuk died in 1904, the the Monastery of the Archangel Michael is arguably the
whole of Šibenik’s electric lighting was switched off in best known of Croatia’s handful of Orthodox monasteries.
his honour. Immediately downstream from Jaruga 1 is a It was founded in 1345 thanks to an endowment by Prin-
wooden bridge that crosses a wide pool of river water right cess Jelena, a sister of the Serbian Tsar Dušan who married
below the biggest of Skradinski buk’s waterfalls. This broad a Croatian prince of the Šubić family. Famous for its Roman-
stretch of shallow water is Skradinski buk where you are esque bell tower and arcaded cloister, the monastery is also
allowed to swim, although a barrier of plastic buoys pre- known for its early-Christian catacombs – although they
vents bathers from getting right up close to the waterfall are not always open to visitors.
itself. On the other side of the river is a network of trails Roughly opposite the monastery is another of the Nelipić
leading up and down the hillside beside many of Skradin’s cliff-top fortresses, Bogočin.
tumbling streams, many on raised wooden boardwalks North of the monastery lies the most dramatic stretch
built on stilts to keep your feet dry during bouts of seasonal of the river, a narrow winding canyon with sheer sides.
flooding. Perched on cliffs on either side of the canyon are two of
the park’s most dramatic fortresses, Nečven to the east,
Ključica and Trošenj immediately opposite to the west. Trošenj
Hovering above the river Čikola, which flows into the Krka once served as the power base of the Croatian Šubić family,
just upstream from Skradinski Buk, Ključica Fortress is although the Ottomans subsequently turned it into a gaol.
part of the fortification system developed by the medieval It was notorious as a place of execution - throwing offend-
Nelipić family, who controlled the trade routes between ers from high windows being the favoured form of capital
Šibenik and Bosnia and levied duty on goods transported in punishment.
both directions. The Nelipić clan’s tight grip on commerce
was much resented by others in the region, and Ključica Burnum
was sacked by forces from Šibenik in the mid-14th century. Just outside the park’s western boundary, the road from
Subsequently occupied by the Ottomans, it fell into disuse Kistanje to Knin forges across maquis-covered karst, pass-
when they were driven out by the Venetians in 1684. ing the site of Burnum, the 1st-century Roman legionary
camp that subsequently developed into a civilian settle-
Visovac Monastery ment. On the western side of the road lie the remains of an
Boat trips from Skradinski buk head up the river into the so- amphitheatre, while further up to the east are the remain-
called Visovac Lake, a stretch of the Krka which measures ing two arches of the former military command post. An
800m from shore to shore at its widest points. Grey-green educational hiking trail goes from Burnum to the Manojlo-
hills rise steeply on either side. Main destination for the ex- vac viewpoint.

46 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 47
Šibenik Surroundings Šibenik Surroundings
Two kilometres north of Burnum, a turn-off to the east CHAEL (MANASTIR KRKA)
twists its way down into the canyon of the Krka, crossing QCarigradska draga, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, www.
the river at Brljansko lake and climbing up onto the plateau
on the opposite side. A signed exit leads to an Archeologi-
cal display devoted to finds from nearby Burnum opened
in 2010. There is also a look-out point affording fine views
North of Šibenik
of the canyon. The main resort on this stretch of coast is Vodice, complete
with big hotels and boisterous nightlife, although the
FRANCISCAN MONASTERY OF THE MOTHER OF smaller coastal settlements of Pirovac and Tribunj provide
QVisovac, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, Boat
tickets 50 - 130kn. PIROVAC
Occupying a semicircular peninsula 23km north of Šibenik,
PUBLIC INSTITUTE OF KRKA NATIONAL PARK Pirovac centres on a palm-splashed sea front bordered by a
QE‑3, Trg Ivana Pavla II 5, Šibenik, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 tidy agglomeration of modern houses and holiday villas. A
77, Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. gate in a surviving stretch of town wall leads through to the
historic centre of town, a cluster of ancient stone houses
THE BURNUM ARCHAEOLOGICAL COLLECTION and cobbled alleys grouped around a 16th-century parish
QPuljane, Oklaj, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, www.npkrka.
hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 20:00. PIROVAC TOURIST BOARD
Occupying a semicircular peninsula 23km north of Šibenik,
Pirovac centres on a palm-splashed sea front bordered by
a tidy agglomeration of modern houses and holiday villas.
A gate in a surviving stretch of town wall leads through
to the historic centre of town, a cluster of ancient stone
houses and cobbled alleys grouped around a 16th-centu-
ry parish church.QKralja Krešimira IV br. 6, tel. (+385-22) TRIBUNJ TOURIST BOARD restaurants you might be eating in later. Upstairs is a fine
46 67 70, Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun QBadnje bb, tel. (+385-22) 44 61 43, collection of antique amphorae salvaged by underwater
08:00 - 13:00. hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. July, August archeologists, and an impressive collection of model boats
Open 08:00 - 21:00. from all ages and countries - they range from traditional
TRIBUNJ Croatian fishing vessels to the 17th-century Swedish war-
ship Wasa, that famously sank within twenty minutes of its
Thirty minutes’ walk along the seafront from Vodice, Tribunj VODICE launch.
Krka National Park Archives is a relatively calm fishing village centred on a thumb- Twelve kilometres north of Šibenik, Vodice is the most-
shaped island joined to the mainland by a bridge. There’s visited tourist resort in the region, with modern hotel AQUARIUM AND MUSEUM OF THE MARITIME
a tight cluster of old houses on the island itself, and a large developments on either side of its broad bay and a large TRADITION
yachting marina on the opposite side of the bay. and well-equipped yachting marina in the middle. There is QObala Matice hrvatske 33, tel. (+385-) 098 35 30 63/
Overlooking the bridge on the mainland side is the Parish a small nucleus of historic buildings and narrow streets in (+385-) 098 21 46 34,
Church of Our Lady (Crkva velike Gospe), a 19th-century the centre of Vodice, surrounded by a pleasantly low-rise Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 25/20 kn.
building containing a cluster of neo-Baroque altars and a sprawl of family houses and tourist-oriented apartment
shrine to Saint Nicholas (the patron of sea-farers) that fea- buildings. Vodice’s beaches consist mostly of concrete, VODICE TOURIST BOARD
tures an intricate model ship. For those who need to stretch gravel and pebble, so don’t get too excited about building QObala Vladimira Nazora bb, tel. (+385-22) 44 38 88,
their legs, a path leads up behind Tribunj’s parish church any sandcastles. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.
towards the hilltop chapel of St Nicholas, passing shrines The town gets its name from the many sources of drink-
marking the Stations of the Cross on the way. There are
splendid views of the coastline from the summit.
able water in the area (voda is Croatian for “water”). Indeed
the city of Šibenik was supplied by ship with drinking water
To the west of Tribunj, Sovlja is a small settlement resting from Vodice right up until the 1870s, when its own piped ARAUZONA
on a shallow inlet, with a rock-and-pebble beach that’s a water system was constructed.
peaceful alternative to those in nearby Vodice. Grandest of the old buildings in the centre is the Ćorić Tow- History and mystery combined! Arauzona is a rich
Tribunj’s other main claim to fame is the festival of donkey er, sole surviving remnant of fortifications built in the 15th archaeological site from the pre-Roman and Roman
races that takes place every year in the first week of August. century to defend the town against the Ottomans. A solid- times where about one-hundred tombs have been dis-
The traditional local affection for the four-legged bray- looking townhouse nearby holds the Vodice Aquarium, covered, some dating back from the 4th century B.C.
ing beast is nurtured by the Tribunj-based Hrvatski Tovar which contains an entertaining and educational display of Once a Roman settlement, some residential buildings
(“Croatian Donkey”) organization, formed in 1999. There is Adriatic sea creatures, which - featuring sea bream, sea bass were also found with signs of defensive walls, streets
a donkey reserve on the island of Logorun just offshore to and dentex - looks rather like a 3-D menu for the seafood and water tanks.
Kornati National Park Archives the southwest.

48 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 49
Šibenik Surroundings Šibenik Surroundings
With a cluster of stone houses at its core and an extensive QRudina bb, tel. (+385-22) 43 49 95, www.tzo-
suburban spread of modern villas, Murter constitutes a re- Open 08:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00
laxing blend of Dalmatian history and easy-going modern - 12:00 18:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. July, August
vacations. Most Murter families were granted farm land on Open 08:00 - 22:00.
the nearby Kornati islands in the past, which explains why
most of the houses in Murter face out to sea, with a small TISNO
jetty and boat mooring serving as some kind of aquatic Tisno is Dalmatian dialect for ‘narrow’, which is an ac-
front door. Locals do indeed claim that Murter has the high- curate description of the town’s location, hugging both
est number of boats in proportion to the local population shores of the narrow strait that divides the island of Murt-
than anywhere else in the Mediterranean. Of the several er from the Croatian mainland. The bridge that spans the
yachting marinas in Murter, the ACI marina at the northern strait is raised at regular intervals (twice a day in sum-
end of town is one of the best equipped in the Adriatic, mer, at 9am and 5pm) to allow boats to pass through
with a big repair yard. the town. There is an engaging huddle of old buildings
Everything in Murter revolves around the irregular-shaped, in the historic core of the town on the south side of the
café-lined town square, Trg Rudina, which opens out to- bridge, where the 18th century Katunarić Palace contains
wards a palm-lined seafront promenade at its northern a small history display including finds from a Roman
end. Stroll west from here along the narrow alleyway villa at nearby Plitka Uvala bay. Paths lead up beyond the
known as Luke to enjoy a taste of Murter’s traditional stone Parish Church of the Holy Spirit (Crkva svetog Duha) to
architecture. One of the most atmospheric parts of town is the hilltop shrine of Our Lady of Caravaggio (Gospe od
Selo, grouped around a cone-shaped hill 800 metres south Karavaja), a popular pilgrimage site established by fami-
of the seafront. The narrow streets of Selo lead uphill to- lies who moved here from northern Italy in the late 17th
wards St Rock’s Chapel (Kapelica svetog Roka), a gleaming century. There are sumptuous views of the surrounding
whitewashed building that is the site of a major religious countryside from the top. Back at sea level, the town’s
procession on St Rock’s Day (August 16). From the chapel’s long coastline on both sides of the straits makes it per-
forecourt you can enjoy a stupendous panorama of Murter fect for extended shoreline strolls. The rock-and-pebble
Jezera Tourist Board Archives beaches at Lovišča (southwest) and Jazina (northwest)
with the lumpy brown-green forms of the Kornati islands
rising up in the distance. The narrow streets below the are ideal for a family-oriented splashing-around holiday.
Although joined to the mainland by a short and stumpy grouped around the Parish Church of St Francis (Crkva
bridge, Murter is technically an island and still feels like a svetog Frane), famous for its distinctive octagonal belfry chapel contain some of the oldest and most picturesque of TISNO TOURIST BOARD
self-contained world of its own. Relatively low on large- topped by a bulbous red dome and spindly weather vane. Murter’s stone houses. QIstočna Gomilica 1a, tel. (+385-22) 43 86 04, www.
sized package hotels, Murter has developed a regular Rising beyond the yachting marina on the northeast side Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat
BETINA TOURIST BOARD of town is the scrub-covered hill known as Gradina, site of 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 -
clientele of independently-minded tourists who sleep in QDolac 2a, tel. (+385-22) 43 65 22,
the island’s plentiful supply of private rooms and apart- an Illyrian fortress subsequently occupied by the Romans - 20:00.
Open 08:00 - 21:00. who went on to build the settlement of Colentum on the
ments, and - although it can be busy in summer - it has EDUCATIONAL UNDERWATER TRAIL
a more laid-back atmosphere than the mainland towns. JEZERA hill’s slopes. Follow the shoreline path around the grave-
yard of the Church of Our Lady of Gradina (Crkva gospe od Why not learn beneath the sea? Set in the Murter Chan-
Murter is also a beautiful, relatively unspoiled parcel of A relatively tranquil port sprawling around a broad bay.
Jezera (“the Lakes”) gets its name from the seasonal ponds Gradina) and you will arrive at a the former site of a Roman nel and along the amazing promenade Tisno-Jezera,
Adriatic nature, made up of a sequence of rocky hillocks, seven buoys have been anchored sea deep and each
that used to appear on the outskirts of the entrance to villa, its walls partially rebuilt by conservationists to provide
pines and tamarisks, and acre upon acre of olive trees - buoy has a fixed educational board detailing local ma-
the village. One of them, called Lokva (”Puddle”), still ex- an idea of what it once looked like.
many growing wild amid thorny Mediterranean maquis. rine life in both Croatian and English. It’s educational and
ists behind the Parish Church and fills with water in rainy There is not a great deal else of Colentum to see (much of
Piles of stone heaped up on the hillside recall the times sensational!
periods of the spring and autumn. The other one, known it lies underwater), but the bayside location is a powerfully
when local villagers cleared the rocky ground to create
as Blato (“Mud”), further south, was filled in during the early evocative spot.
small patches of cultivable land, collecting the spoil into
20th century and is now grazing land. Jezera’s pretty centre Most popular of Murter’s beaches is Slanica, 1.5km west of
thick dry-stone walls that have slowly collapsed with
spreads horseshoe-style around a bay raked with yacht jet- the main square, a part-shingle part-sand beach that gets
time, creating the enigmatic cones and pyramids seen ties and breakwaters. The hilltop chapel of Sveti Rok (im- crowded in summer. There are bars and a pizzeria behind
today. Over to the west are the alluring profiles of the Ko- mediately south of the Lokva) provides an easy target for the beach, and coastal paths that lead to rockier (and po-
rnati islands, and it is Murter’s status as main gateway to recreational hikers. The best beaches are a long walk (or tentially more secluded) parts of the coast in either direc-
the Kornati National Park that brings a constant stream of short drive) south of the village, in coves such as Podjase- tion.
nautically-inclined visitors. novac and Kromašna. The rural tracks linking Jezera with Follow the coastal path south from Slanica and you will
BETINA these and other bays forge their way through olive groves arrive after 20-30 minutes at Čigrađa beach, an attractive
Over on the northeastern side of the Gradina headland and are ideal for cycling. crescent of pebble bordered by a jetty for small boats. Be-
(and within easy walking distance of Murter), the village JEZERA TOURIST BOARD hind the beach lies a cool beach bar in the shape of Lan-
of Betina used to be a major ship-building centre and QPut Zaratića 3, tel. (+385-22) 43 91 20, www.tzjezera. tana (see p.35) and a well-regarded seafood restaurant (the
part of the seafront is still taken up by small repair yards hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Čigrađa, see p.29). Čigrađa can also be reached by road
catering for yachts and local fishing boats. At the centre July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00, from the centre of Murter - take the main southbound road
out of town and turn right when you see the sign. Jezera Tourist Board Archives
of the settlement is a kasbah-like maze of narrow alleys 18:00 - 21:00.

50 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 51
Šibenik Surroundings Šibenik Surroundings
vines, this was the agricultural heartland of the region until ROGOZNICA
tourism took off and the working lives of the locals become
focused on the coast. All of the villages here have suffered Southernmost of Šibenik County’s seaside resorts is Ro-
rural depopulation, and once profitable crops have been goznica, an attractive island village joined to the mainland
left to go to seed - although an increasing number of lo- by a 100-metre-long bridge. With a huddle of stone houses
cal families are returning to their ancestral properties and rising above a palm-splashed Riva, it’s an undeniably at-
revitalizing the olive groves. tractive spot, and the Frapa marina on the opposite side
The region’s rich stock of traditional stone buildings is in- of the bay has made it a hugely popular destination with
creasingly appreciated too, as can be seen from the popu- the yachting crowd. Situated on the western fringe of the
larity of the restored Jurlinovi Dvori farmstead in the hill- village, Frapa is open to outsiders, with a central semicircu-
side village of Draga. As well as containing ethnographic lar building holding restaurants, bars and a nightclub. Just
displays and an art gallery, Jurlinovi Dvori also offers food behind the marina is Zmajevo Oko (“Eye of the Dragon”), a
and drink, and has become a major tourist attraction as a crater-like salt-water lake surrounded by grey cliffs. North of
result. Most of the visitors are pre-booked groups, although the marina is the Gradina peninsula, boasting a significant
individual tourists are welcome to look around as well. The stretch of pebble beach backed by dense pines.
restored farmstead represents the life’s work of local priest
Don Stipe Perkov, who was born in the main house and ROGOZNICA TOURIST BOARD
whose family have been masters of the property for sev- QObala Kneza Domagoja 56, tel. (+385-22) 55 92 53,
eral generations. The farmstead consists of a 300-year-old Open 08:00 - 21:00.
main building where visitors can see traditional textiles, a
restored kitchen and an antiquated-looking rakija still. On
the opposite side of a terraced garden are several outbuild-
ings that were acquired by the family later, holding a small
museum of church silverware and a picture gallery of works
donated by contemporary Croatian artists. For more infor-
mation see Agritourism on page 51.

Primošten Vineyards
Hotel Complex Punta - Vodice Archives
The best of Šibenik county’s velvety Babić wine comes from
the vineyards ranged across the hills around Primošten, a
geometric cluster of small rectangular plots owned by indi-
South of Šibenik constructed to join the island onto the mainland, and the
resulting town became known as Primošten (which might
vidual local families. With each of these rectangular parcels
surrounded by a dry-stone wall, the vine-bearing hillside
be loosely translated as “the place with a bridge across”). terraces look strikingly decorative when seen from a dis-
South of Šibenik stretches a heavily indented coastline As the Ottoman threat receded, the wooden bridge was
lined with low-key villages boasting a variety of pebbly and tance, and are somewhat appropriately described as the
replaced by a stone causeway, turning Primošten into the “stone lace of Primošten” in local tourist literature.
rocky beaches. The main resorts here are Primošten, 21km peninsula town that visitors see today.
south of Šibenik, equipped with a cluster of well-patron- These terraces are the result of generations of back-break-
On the landward side of the causeway is the dainty stone- ing toil: the rocks that cover the local landscape had to be
ized hotels; and Rogoznica slightly further on, site of one of
roofed Chapel of St Rock (1680), beside which is a statue laboriously broken up in order to create cultivable patches
the region’s biggest yachting marinas. One the way there
of Don Ivo Šarić (1915-1944), who attempted to protect of land. Primošten’s oldest vineyards probably date from the
you’ll pass plenty of characterful, quieter spots. Grebaštica Rogoznica Tourist Board Archives
the local population against atrocities by both Italian and 16th century, although extra impetus to their development
lies on a long thin bay overlooked by the ruins of a Venetian
German occupiers during World War II, before finally being was provided by post-World-War-II land redistribution,
defensive wall. Dolac, just south of Grebaštica, is a small
coastal village whose seafront is made up primarily of slabs murdered by the latter. In front of the statue stretches a when the area around the Kremik Gulf southwest of town
of rock - perfect platforms for a summer skin-roasting ses- typically sweet-smelling Adriatic garden filled with laven- was divided up and shared out among the locals. Over the
sion. der bushes, rosemary, and a clutch of palm trees. Presiding course of ten years hillside terraces were built, fields were
over the causeway to the Old Town is a much-loved piece cleared and dividing walls were erected with geometrical
of sculpture depicting a local fisherman accompanied by precision, producing the unique vineyard landscape that
PRIMOŠTEN wife and donkey. At the opposite end of the causeway, an can be seen today. Such is its beauty that the Croatian gov-
Catching sight of Primošten from the coastal road is one arched gate leads through a stretch of crenellated wall into ernment is considering putting the Primošten Vineyards
of the many love-at-first-sight experiences that the Croa- the Old Town, where a tangle of narrow streets surround forward as a candidate for inclusion on the UNESCO’s World
tian Adriatic has to offer. An attractive old town is squeezed the 15th-century parish church of St George. Heritage List.
onto an thumb of land jutting into a turquoise sea, while Much favoured by Hollywood director Orson Welles (who Best way to admire the vineyards is to head for Kremik
the wooded peninsula of Raduča sprouts off to the north, had a summer villa here), the beaches of Raduča are yachting marina, which lies at the bottom of several ter-
fringed by a large and splendid gravel beach. packed with bathers in summer. raced slopes. Several foot- and bicycle paths allow visitors
Primošten’s origins go back to the Ottoman conquest of to explore the landscape at close quarters.
Bosnia in 1463, when the Croatian-speaking population of Inland from Primošten
the interior increasingly sought refuge on the Adriatic coast. Occupying the high ground uphill from Primošten is an en- PRIMOŠTEN TOURIST BOARD
The oval-shaped island known as Gola Glava (“Bare Head”) chanting area of maquis-choked villages and country lanes QTrg Josipa Biskupa Arnerića 2, tel. (+385-22) 57 11 11,
was one of the places they settled. A wooden bridge was lined by dry stone walls. Densely planted with olives and Open 08:00 - 22:00. Rogoznica Tourist Board Archives

52 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 53
Leisure Leisure
of klape singing groups... just being a part of the whole experience. Different options of tours guided or self-
guided with or without eating are available; the hostess
at the entrance will inform you.QSolaris Beach Resort,
VERTIGO DIVING CENTER Hoteli Solaris 86, tel. (+385-22) 36 10 51, www.solaris.
QHotelsko naselje Solaris bb, tel. (+385-) 098 20 90 73/ hr/dalmatinsko-etno-selo/. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Ethno
(+385-) 098 171 47 70, Open 08:00 - Tour 10€ per person, kids 6€. T­E­K
VODICE DIVE Located in woods near Dubrava 8km north of the city cen-
QVenca Vlahova 15, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 098 919 62 33/ tre, the Šibenik Falconry Centre was founded in 2000 to
(+385-) 098 191 45 97, Open protect birds of prey and educate the local public about
08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00. wildlife conservation issues. As a collection centre for in-
jured birds, kept here before being returned to the wild, it
has become a major tourist attraction. The centre receives
EXCURSIONS birds of prey from all over Croatia, most of which are vic-
These are agencies which offer one-day trips and longer tims of their interaction with human civilization: typical
trips to suit your needs (Kornati and Krka excursion, Plit- cases include birds injured by collisions with cars or elec-
vice…). tric fences, birds orphaned by hunters, or birds that were
inappropriately kept as pets by humans. The majority are
successfully treated and returned to the wild.
QD‑3, Andrije Kačića Miošića 11, tel. (+385-22) 21 25
Individual visitors are free to admire and photograph any
15, Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00
birds currently kept in the Centre’s holding cages (buz-
- 13:00. Closed Sun.
zards and eagle owls being the most numerous patients), a
KOLA FJAKA wonderful experience that will bring you face to face with
The Garden Tisno by day - each side - credit Tim Ertl
Trips to Krka and Kornati National Parks.QE‑3, Dobrić 4, creatures that you would normally never see at such close
tel. (+385-22) 24 48 08/(+385-) 095 567 69 28, www. quarters. Pre-booked groups may also be treated to dis- Open June, September 09:00 - 13:00, plays of falconry.QŠkugori 47a, Dubrava kod Šibenika,
ADRENALINE RUSH stretching out a few ligaments? On your own head be it…
17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Open July, tel. (+385-) 091 506 76 10,
QŠibenik Bridge, tel. (+385-) 091 195 19 30/(+385-) 091
Packages which offer activities for adults (18+) with an August 09:00 - 21:00. A Open 09:00 - 19:00. Admission 45/35 kn.
253 12 98, July 1 - September 1
element of thrill and danger (scuba diving, rock climbing,
Open 10:00 - 20:00. Fri, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. 280kn (jump). NIK AQUAPARK DALMATIA
wind surfing,…)
Trips to Krapanj, Zlarin, Krka and Kornati National Parks.. Lots of fun for every family member; pools, slides and
DISCOVER DALMATIA TOURIST AGENCY QAnte Šupuka 5, tel. (+385-22) 33 85 50, www.nik. crazy rides!QSolaris Beach Resort, Hoteli Solaris 86, tel.
Rafting on Cetina river.QSplitska 12, Primošten, tel. hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. (+385-22) 36 10 01, Ad-
Departures from Vodice or surrounding area — Biograd,
(+385-22) 64 37 75, Open Closed Sun. A mission 100/70kn. No admission for kids 0-3 years old.
Primošten, etc. Fishing for tuna and other big game fish.
08:00 - 20:00. A
QNikola Subic Zrinski 2, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 098 923 TOURIST PUNKT ŠIBENIK PLUS
50 26, F​ ull-day boat In promoting slow tourism, this agency offers especially BEACHES
charter: 800 euros for max 4-5 people. Price includes SCUBA DIVING themed intimate tours made for creating memorable BANJ
fuel, equipment, food and drink. moments. Such tours include the ‘Cool Night Tour’, ‘Eco’,
There are scuba diving centres throughout the region, al- The beach is over 12000 square meters and also includes
though it is on the island of Krapanj - long famous as the ‘Wine and Dine’ and ‘In search of the lost Mediterranean’.
BUNGEE JUMPING facilities such as a skate park, basketball court, beach vol-
centre of the Adriatic sponge-diving industry - that it has These one day outings are held on a traditional wooden
Leaping from the bridge over the Krka river is an amazing leyball, free-climbing, open air cinema, cafes and restau-
boat and consist of sailing through the Šibenik archipelago
the longest tradition. Skradin, with its access to the sea inlet rants, a children’s playground, and more.QJ‑2.
experience, or so those who have tried it tell us. An ex- where you get to visit the unique islands of Prvić and Zla-
known as the Prukljansko jezero is an important training
perience both for the person jumping, and for their loved rin. Tailor made to suit your needs, they will also organise JADRIJA
base for rowers, canoeists and kayakers.
ones watching with their hearts in their mouths. Fancy accommodation and rentals too.QC‑4, Obala palih om- Poking out to sea on the western side of St Anthony’s
ladinaca 7, tel. (+385-22) 41 02 59/(+385-) 095 914 24 49, Channel, opposite the Fortress of St Nicholas, the Jadrija
DIVING CENTER TRAMONTO Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. peninsula is the site of Šibenik’s municipal lido. During
HAPPY HORSE FARM QStjepana Radića 13, Tisno, tel. (+385-) 098 84 32 33,
the summer months it can be reached via hourly taxi Open 09:00 - 21:00.
KOLAN HORSE CLUB FAMILY FUN boat from the Riva. Jadrija was laid out as the municipal
beach in 1921 by local benefactor Šime Grubišić Rovilo
Amidst other farm animals the horses and ponies MEDITERRANEO SUB
These listed places offer organised activities for both kids (1856-1928), and it still has the appearance of an old-style
are the shining stars here. Visitors can choose from QObala I 58, Hotel Spongiola, Krapanj, tel. (+385-) 091
and adults, day trips to devour, and safe sporting activities bathing resort, with concrete shoreline platforms and neat
supervised horse and cart rides to adult and children 539 40 07/(+385-) 091 738 80 31, www.mediterraneo-
(i.e. horse riding, kayaking…) functional rows of changing cubicles.
rides. There is an open sports and recreation area and Open 09:00 - 21:00.
cute souvenirs to make your stay a memorable one. DALMATIAN ETHNO VILLAGE
QDubravski put, tel. (+385-) 098 936 03 04, www. NAJADA DIVING A special feature available to individual guests not staying Open by prior arrangement. Riding QPut Jersan 17, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 60 20/(+385-) at Solaris Resort. It gives you a chance to experience all the
Get the In Your Pocket
100 - 150kn/h. 098 959 24 15, Open 08:30 - 19:00. aspects of traditional Dalmatia, through stone houses, tra- City Essentials app
N ditional crafts, local food and wine, evening performances

54 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 55
Shopping Shopping
ANTIQUES Mesarske Stube 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 62 57, www.charlie- Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed
A small yet charming antiques fair runs only on Fridays and
Saturdays during winter, but in the summer season it is GULIVER
open every day except on Sundays. It just may happen that High quality accessories from another Croatian manu-
whilst passing by St. Francis’ Church, you find a rare copy facturer of shoes and handbags, as well as belts, scarves,
of your favourite book or an old pocket watch or paint- wallets and more! With 30 years under their belt, their
ing that will capture your heart and extend your home products are not only trendy in keeping up with the times
collection of antique items.QD/E/F‑2, Trg N.Tomasea, but valued.QStjepana Radića 4h, tel. (+385-22) 21 54 97,
tel. (+385-) 098 26 61 67/(+385-) 098 23 58 64, www. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Open 09:00 - 20:00. N Closed Sun. From July Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 -
14:00. Closed Sun.
DANA Escape the summer heat and do some shopping at this
A beautiful gallery where you can find that special gift, specialised store that promotes the works of upcoming
souvenir, or ornament, big or small, they have it all! All and famous Croatian designers and labels which include
items and works are handmade by Croatian designers, Lei Lou by Aleksandra Dojčinović, Krie Design, BMS by
painters, and ceramists... Worth a peek!QE‑3, Dobrić 4, Zoran Aragović, Karaka Design, Mo Design, Foch, Nives Tri-
tel. (+385-22) 21 20 47. Open 09:30 - 22:00. J va, Alma Fashion, Apsolute i Aksent, as well as jewelry from
Berend Art. So why not take the time to find something
JURAJ DALMATINAC GALLERY for you or even take home a homemade souvenir.QD‑3, HR Design Fashion & Art Archives
In a beautiful setting that exudes the Mediterranean, you Don Krste Stošića 4, tel. (+385-22) 24 44 46. Open 09:00
will find works of art by academic painters, jewellery and - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open DELIKATESE VUKŠIĆ KUPI KAVU I ČAJ
pieces of clothing by Croatian designers, and authentic 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A This lovely deli shop at the city market is stocked with an Devotees to fine coffee and tea will fall in love with this
souvenirs handmade and autochtonic to this area.QE‑3, abundance of local delicacies such as prosciutto, cheese, wonderful store that sells homemade teas, as well as over
Don Krste Stošića 14, tel. (+385-) 091 288 79 91, www. KOKE DESIGN
olive oil, rakija and honey, as well as famous Slavonian ku- 100 different varieties of coffee and tea from around the Open 09:00 - 23:00. A As you straddle by Saint James’ Cathedral this little work-
len and homemade jams. A real treat for anyone’s tingling world. Supremo coffee from Columbia or Santo Domingo
shop is packed with colourful and uplifting clothes, bags,
LANA ART taste buds!QAnte Starčevića (green market), tel. (+385-) from the Domincian Republic are just some of the special-
scarves, jewellery, and more. It is a tad hippy and there is
A gallery presenting the work of Lana herself, as well as 098 66 83 73. Open 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A ties. Here, one can also find local Croatian souvenirs and
something that suits everyone’s taste.QE‑3, Kralja Tomis-
other artists from Šibenik and all over Croatia.QE‑2, Faus- products.QE‑3, Zagrebačka 7, tel. (+385-22) 20 08 04,
lava bb, tel. (+385-22) 21 29 82, GRACIN
ta Vrančića 3, tel. (+385-22) 20 08 91/(+385-) 091 87 98 Open 08:00 - 23:30, Sun 08:30
Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. A A small shop selling a variety of honeys, including sage,
03. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. - 22:00. J­A
rosemary, and the unusual bramble honey (med od
Closed Sun. A drače), plus advice on the amber elixir’s medicinal proper- NIRA DELICIJE
DELICATESSEN ties.QPut murve 4, Primošten, tel. (+385-) 091 510 08 When in Dalmatia, eat Dalmatian! Enter and rejoice in local
Jewellery made from red Adriatic coral is hard to resist and BARONE SHOP 19. Open 08:00 - 23:00. J­N delicacies such as the prestige Drniš prosciutto, pancetta,
is part of both the traditional and modern jewellery ver- So you’ve just tried a glass of wine in the bistro that’s cheese, honey, honey products, wines, cranberry, orange
tingled the tonsils, then head into the shared space of the HRVATSKI OTOČNI PROIZVOD (CROATIAN
nacular of Dalmatia.QNiz Bebana bb, Zlarin, tel. (+385- ISLAND PRODUCTS) and lemon rakija. They will pack and slice meat prod-
22) 55 37 33/(+385-) 098 87 03 76, 099 191 68 87. Open Barone bistro and enter its wine shop, here you can buy ucts for you. Take out only!QL‑3, Stjepana Radića 8, tel.
wines as well as original products by Croatian product Delicacies of a tonne, all in one! A fab miniature conve-
09:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00. From August Open 09:00 nience store with products from small producers across (+385-) 099 252 75 01. Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 07:00 -
- 21:00, Sun by prior arrangement. A designers.QF‑1, Put Vuka Mandušića 28, tel. (+385-) 091 13:00. Closed Sun. A
497 55 47, Open 09:00 - 22:00. A Croatian islands along the Adriatic. Food products, oils,
fruit liqueurs, brandy, and jam to natural cosmetics and OLEOTEKA UJE
All the Bibich wines are for sale here, as well as local raki-
essential oils, souvenirs of olive wood, national costumes
and more. Tip top souvenirs!QF‑3, Trg kralja Tomislava
Gem of a store which sells various types of olives, olive oils,
BOROVO jams, olive pastes, and products made of the olive tree. It’s
jas and delicatessen products.QFra Luje Maruna 21, Sk- 9. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. all about the Mediterranean gold or as we like to call it,
Croatia’s largest shoe producer which manufactures and radin, tel. (+385-22) 77 16 15. Open 09:30 - 23:00. A Closed Sun. N
exports new collections as well as redesigned classics ‘olive oil’.QD‑3, Dragojevića Stube 1, tel. (+385-) 095 198
such as the already popular Startas. There is Boromina, BOBIS ILOČKI PODRUMI 02 06, Open 09:00 - 22:00. A
Borosana, My Ballerinas and more, so it’s best to hop into a A Split institution, Bobis has been providing Croatian citi- Famous quality wines from the renowned wine cellars of SKRADINSKE DELICIJE
store for a truly 100% authentic Croatian souvenir or gift… zens with delectable eats since 1950. In Šibenik’s store you the Croatian north-eastern shores of the Danube River can As well as running a highly recommended restaurant, this
QE‑3, Kralja Tomislava, tel. (+385-22) 21 24 68, www. can choose some sweet pastry or a pre-wrapped one to now be found in their own store in Šibenik. Ilok has a long family business produces its own wine, rakija, skradinska Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed take with you for your hike around the town.QMiminac 2. and proud history of wine making and bottling, and is well torta and a delicious fig jam that is not too sweet and has a
Sun. From July Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Open 06:00 - 22:00. known for their exclusively sealed cork.QSedam Omelića uniquely smooth and succulent feel.They have a little kiosk
Closed Sun. A 1, tel. (+385-22) 33 55 37. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sat 08:00 - in the car park during the summer months where you can
BRKIĆ 13:00. Closed Sun. A
CHARLIE DESIGN Cutting and vacuuming ham domestic production. buy their unusual and mouthwatering comestibles.QA-
Our friends’ favourite shop because it is classy, elegant, QHrvatskih boraca 62, Vodice. Open 07:30 - 14:00, leja Skradinskih svilara 8, Skradin, www.skradinske-
sophisticated with beautiful clothing materials.QE‑3, 17:00 - 21:00, Sun 07:30 - 14:00. N June - September Open 08:00 - 24:00.

56 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 57
Shopping Where to stay
Devotees of tea may just find themselves in heaven with Cold pressed olive oil just the way it’s been made here SYMBOL KEY
a vast range of teas from all four corners of the globe. since 1854.QKrapanj, tel. (+385-22) 35 06 95, www.
Choose from black, green, ayurveda, herbal, fruit flavours Open by prior arrangement. N P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
and more.QFra Jeronima Milete 7, tel. (+385-22) 31 01
VINOPLOD O Casino H Conference facilities
67, Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00
- 13:00. Closed Sun. A A shop at the winery gates sells bottles at discount prices T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled
– a good opportunity to pick up a bottle or two of Babić.
QVelimira Škorpika 2, Šibenik, tel. (+385-22) 33 40 F Fitness centre L Guarded parking
GREEN MARKET 11, Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly
08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N
PIJACA K Restaurant J Old town location
The allure of asparagus, the charm of chard. Cheeky
D Sauna C Swimming pool
tomatoes, apricots as soft as a baby’s bum: who can SHOPPING CENTRES
resist a Mediterranean open air market? Šibenik’s mar- I Fireplace W Wifi
ketplace is not to be missed: it’s full of colour, local pro- QAnte Šupuka 10, tel. (+385-22) 24 48 44, B Outside seating
duce and crazy characters. Why buy plastic fruit from Solaris Beach Resort Archives Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. W
the supermarket when you can buy the real thing and
enjoy some friendly banter into the bargain?QG‑2/3, DALMARE HOTELS to let in the summer months. This is a way of life in Croatia,
Stankovačka 9. Open 06:00 - 13:00, Sun 06:00 - and usually provides one of the main sources of income for
QVelimira Škorpika 23, tel. (+385-22) 49 24 61, www. In Croatia hotels are graded two, three, four or five star.
11:00. families. It used to be common for owners of private rooms Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. July, Hotels graded two star are usually managed by the own-
ers, so the advantages include a friendly family atmos- to stand on the main highway that runs along the coast
August Open 08:00 - 21:00. W
phere. The hotels are clean but basic and are equipped very or at bus and train stations holding signs saying “Zimmer
SP SUPERNOVA ŠIBENIK simply. Frei” (“Vacant Room” in German, since the majority of visi-
QPut Vida 6, tel. (+385-23) 32 73 01, www.supernova. Three star hotels generally offer rather more spacious ac- tors at that time were German-speaking). Accommodation
hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00. W commodation with well-equipped rooms, but the hotel advertised in this way is usually lower in quality and is often
services usually do not include a porter. Three star hotels illegal but the owner may be open to a little haggling if the
usually have mid-sized restaurants. tourist is prepared for a little excitement!
SOUVENIRS Four star hotels are usually large formal hotels with staffed Stone villas are an increasingly popular choice for families
ČIVLJAK reception areas and porters. The level of service is signifi- who have a little more money to spend, especially in Istria.
This little jeweller is famous for puce and bagatin – fili- cantly above average, the rooms are tastefully furnished When you reserve a villa like this it is important to find out
gree buttons traditionally worn as a part of folk costume, and the hotel usually has a good restaurant. how far you will be from the sea, if that is important to you,
often elaborate in design.QF‑2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. Five star hotels offer the highest quality accommodation. because many such properties are located in the hinter-
(+385-22) 21 20 64. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 16:30 - 20:00, Although most five star hotels are large, some are small land, although they may have swimming pools.
Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A independent hotels (i.e. not part of a chain) offering an Those who love to be alone and completely unplug from
elegant intimacy. civilisation can also select Robinson Crusoe style ac-
CRVENKAPA (THE RED ŠIBENIK CAP) Croatia also offers specialised wellness hotels which have commodation in remote bays or on small islands such as
You might see on your travels in the Šibenik area a distinc- opened to meet global demand for health and wellness Pašman, Drvenik or Dugi Otok. Accommodation like this
tive orange-red skullcap worn as a part of folk costume tourism. may not even have a connection to mains water or electric-
or used as a motif for local restaurants and products. It’s Heritage hotels are located in older buildings of cultural ity, using rainwater and solar power. It is the perfect choice
part of the rich folk heritage of this part of the world and is and historic significance. The hotel menu should be repre- if you want to enjoy unspoilt nature and be right by the sea.
decorated with black wool and silk motifs. sentative of local cuisine.
Boutique hotels are luxurious smaller hotels with an inti-
DENI DESIGN mate atmosphere. They may be part of a larger chain, but HOSTELS
Original jewellery hand-made from Adriatic coral and they are unique in the way that they are decorated, each
stones.QE‑3, Trg Ivana Pavla II bb (Fausta Vrančića 1), Hostels are meeting places offering individuality, variety,
room often being different. Here the individual approach
tel. (+385-22) 41 00 71. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - is based on anticipating guests’ needs before they even simplicity and a friendly atmosphere, all at a reasonable
13:00. Closed Sun. A articulate them. These small, luxury hotels are becoming price. As well as a multitude of campsites, apartments,
more popular in this region over the last few years as guests resorts and hotels, the Croatian coast in recent times has
GALERIJA SV. KRISTOFOR become weary of the standard offering. become home to fantastic unique hostels which contribute
A majestic place of holy and sacral objects that include to making the country a brilliant place to stay.
rosary beads, paintings, sculptures, natural cosmetics and Hostels in Croatia are inexpensive so it’s only to be expect-
other religious items.QD‑3, Sv. Luce 2, tel. (+385) 092 105 PRIVATE ACCOMMODATION ed that the creature comforts are not the same as in other
91 64. Open 09:00 - 21:00 and by prior arrangement. In Croatia there are more rooms available in private accom- types of accommodation. They are popular with young
Closed Sun. modation than in hotels. Family-run hotels are taking on an people who are just passing through and who only need
increasingly important role in Croatian tourism and aim to a place to stay for a night or two, although anyone who
NP KRKA attract guests all year round. needs cheaper accommodation can use hostels. Rooms in
Traditional souvenirs made by local artisans.QE‑3, Trg Private apartments are the most widely available type hostels usually have multiple beds and shared bathrooms,
Ivana Pavla II 5, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, of accommodation, especially on the islands. It seems that but the level of comfort offered is becoming ever closer to
Photo by Višnja Arambašić
Open 07:00 - 19:00. A every house on the Adriatic coast has rooms or apartments that offered by hotels.

58 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 59
Where to stay Arrival & Getting Around
D-RESORT ŠIBENIK QG‑3, Eugena Kvaternika 11, tel. (+385) 091 150 30 29,
QObala Jerka Šižgorića 1, tel. (+385-22) 33 14 52, www. P­A­L­G­W P­i­T­H­A­F­L­B­K­C­
w­W hhhh OUT OF TOWN
QE‑3, Trg Šibenskih Palih Boraca 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 90 QPut Slanice bb, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 11 00, fax
05, P­i­T­ (+385-22) 43 52 55, Prices
J­A­G­B­K­D­W hhhh are per person. P­A­L­G­B­K­X­C­W hhh
QHoteli Solaris 86, tel. (+385-22) 36 39 51, www.solaris. QRtić 12E, Rogoznica, tel. (+385-22) 55 81 28, fax
hr. Open March 22 - October 28. P­T­H­A­U­F­ (+385-22) 55 81 34, P­i­H­A­L­
L­E­G­B­K­D­C­w­W hhhh G­K­D­C­w­W hhhh
QHoteli Solaris 86, tel. (+385-22) 36 29 51, www.solaris. HOTEL PUNTA
hr. P­i­T­A­L­G­B­K­D­C­w­W hhhh QGrgura Ninskog 1, Vodice, tel. (+385-22) 45 14 88, fax
(+385-22) 45 14 34, P­H­A­
QHoteli Solaris 86, tel. (+385-22) 36 49 51, www.solaris.
QGrgura Ninskog 10, Vodice, tel. (+385-22) 44 04 15,
PANORAMA fax (+385-22) 44 02 11,
Photo by Željko Krnčević
QŠibenski most 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 33 98, www.hotel- home. P­i­H­A­U­L­G­B­K­C­W hhhh P­i­H­A­6­F­L­G­B­K­X­C­W ARRIVING BY BUS a stunning journey, which takes you past some of the most
hhhh HOTEL VRATA KRKE Šibenik bus station is handily located on the seafront a beautiful maritime scenery anywhere in Europe. However it
QLozovac 2e, Lozovac, tel. (+385-22) 77 80 92, fax 5-minute walk east of the Old Town. It is served by 4 or 5 ex- can be full of traffic and time consuming in summer, when
(+385-22) 77 80 91, P­i­H­A­R­
3 STARS U­L­G­B­K­W hhh
press buses per day from Zagreb, with an average journey
time of 4hr 20min. There is an additional handful of Zagreb-
it might be worth heading inland and picking up the mo-
torway for a stretch or two.
BEACH HOTEL JAKOV to-Šibenik buses that take a longer route, calling in at Zadar
QHoteli Solaris 86, tel. (+385-22) 36 59 51, www.solaris. HOTEL ZORA
or the Plitivice Lakes on the way. Ticket prices range from
hr. P­i­T­A­L­B­K­C­W hhh QRaduča 11, Primošten, tel. (+385-22) 58 11 11, fax
136kn to 151kn one way. Šibenik also lies on the route of ARRIVING BY PLANE
(+385-22) 57 11 20, P­i­ Nearest airports are Split (45km to the southeast) and Za-
BEACH HOTEL NIKO many long-distance bus routes linking Rijeka and Zadar in
T­H­A­R­U­F­L­G­B­K­D­C­w­W hhh dar (50km northwest). Local buses run from Split and Zadar
QHoteli Solaris 86, tel. (+385-22) 36 19 51, www.solaris. the north to Split and Dubrovnik in the south – so arriving
hr. P­i­T­A­L­E­G­B­K­C­W hhh MAESTRAL here from elsewhere on the Adriatic coast is relatively easy. airports to the relevant city bus stations, where you can get
QRodina 1, Prvić Luka, tel. (+385-22) 44 83 00, fax The bus station itself is equipped with plenty of cafes and an onward service to Šibenik. Journey times to Šibenik from
JADRAN patisseries (mostly Open until 21:00 or 22:00), two ATMs, a Zadar bus station hover around the 1hr 30min mark; from
(+385-22) 44 83 01, P­i­A­
QE‑4, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 52, tel. (+385-22) 24 20 left-luggage office (garderoba; daily 07:00 - 22:00, 4 - 5 Split expect around 1hr 50min.
6­G­B­K­X­W hhh
00, P­i­J­H­A­G­B­K­W hhh kn per item/per hour), ticket office (Open 05:00 - 22:00),
MIHOVIL information desk (Open 05:00 - 22:00) and a public toi-
HOSTEL QAnte Anića 3, Knin, tel. (+385-22) 66 44 44, fax (+385-
22) 66 44 42, P­i­A­6­L­
let (07:00 - 22:00).
Getting from Zagreb to Šibenik by train takes about nine
GLOBO G­B­K­X­W hhh ŠIBENIK COACH STATION hours and involves a long wait at Knin, where you change
QG‑3, Sarajevska 2, tel. (+385- 22) 24 48 17, www. QG‑2, Draga 14, tel. (+385-) 060 36 83 68. trains. As of this spring, weekend trains at Knin will be re- P­J­N­G­W MIRAN placed by buses. Although Šibenik is connected to Perković
QZagrebačka bb, Pirovac, tel. (+385-22) 46 68 03, fax on the Split-Zagreb line, rail travel does not represent a
(+385-22) 46 70 22, P­Z­i­A­L­G­ ARRIVING BY CAR great way of getting around the county. Perković-Zagreb
QF‑3, Jurja Barakovića 3, tel. (+385-22) 20 01 59/(+385-)
B­K­C­W hhh From Zagreb: Šibenik lies just over 300km from the Croa- trains do pass through the inland towns of Drniš and Knin,
091 337 37 44, P­J­R­
G­W hh tian capital, with much of the distance covered by the swift but only twice a day and at inconvenient times - making
OLYMPIA and highly scenic A1 motorway. With the route crossing the day trips by rail rather impractical. Šibenik train station is
MARE QLjudevita Gaja 6, Vodice, tel. (+385-22) 45 24 52, fax bewitchingly barren Lika plateau before burrowing its way about ten minutes’ walk west of the Old Town. There is a
QD‑2, Kralja Zvonimira 40, tel. (+385-22) 21 52 69/ (+385-22) 45 24 20, P­i­T­ through the dramatic Velebit mountains, you’re in for an ex- café at the station (Open 06:00 - 23:00.Closed Sun.), ticket
(+385-) 098 180 59 38, P­J­ H­A­U­F­L­G­B­K­D­C­w­W hhhh hilarating ride. Be aware that the A1 is a toll motorway, and office and information desk (Open 06:00 - 22:00), a public
A­G­W the Zagreb-Šibenik stretch will set you back about 152kn toilet, but no left-luggage facilities.
QObala I 58, Krapanj, tel. (+385-22) 34 89 00, fax (+385- (car) or 92kn (motorbike) each way.
SCALA From elsewhere on the Adriatic coast: Šibenik is on MAIN TRAIN STATION
QPut gimnazije 5, tel. (+385) 095 890 44 31, https:// 22) 34 89 03, P­i­A­R­6­F­
Croatia’s main coastal road, the Magistrala, which runs from QL‑3, Fra Jeronima Milete 24, tel. (+385-22) 33 36 99, B­K­D­C­w­W hhhh
Rijeka in the northwest to Dubrovnik in the southeast. It is

60 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 61
Arrival & Getting Around Arrival & Getting Around
AIRPORT nic wonder, taking you through the Šibenik canal and offer-
Šibenik does not have its own airports but is served by Za- ing fantastic views of the St. Nicholas sea fort as you pass. TO PLANT A FLOWER IS TO
dar airport to the northwest and Split airport to the south- Journey times are short, with the whole Šibenik-Vodice BELIEVE IN TOMORROW
east. journey taking just over one hour.
Further offshore, the islands of Kaprije and Žirje are linked
SPLIT AIRPORT-KAŠTELA (ZRAČNA LUKA to the mainland less often and take slightly longer to get to,
SPLIT-KAŠTELA) but still represent an eminently accessible day out from the
QCesta dr. Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. city. Note that almost all of these services are for passengers
(+385-21) 20 35 55, fax (+385-21) 20 34 22, www.split- and bicycles only - you can’t take a car on board unless trav- elling on selected Žirje services.
The departure point for these ferries is the jetty pier on
ZADAR AIRPORT (ZRAČNA LUKA ZADAR) the seafront right below the city centre. Tickets should be
QZemunik Donji, Zadar, tel. (+385-23) 20 58 00, fax bought before boarding the boat from the Jadrolinija office
(+385-23) 20 58 33, diagonally opposite the jetty.
The island of Krapanj, just off the shore opposite the set-
tlement of Brodarica, is reached by hourly passenger boat
BIKING from the Brodarica waterfront (pay on board).
Although the infrastructure for cycling is almost non-exist- Elsewhere, the Kornati islands are not linked to the main- Šibenik Plus Archives
ent, it is of course possible to rent-a-bike to at least see the land by regular ferry, and are only accessible via the tourist
city landmarks and monuments, or beach hop from one to excursions operated by travel agencies or with your own Thinking of a greener and brighter future, 2017 is the
Šibenik Tourist Board Archives
another of course. There are a few bike stores around town yacht. International Year of Sustainable Tourism with the
that charge around 100kn per day and if you choose to rent motto, ‘To plant a flower is to believe in tomorrow. It’s a
TOURIST INFORMATION for a few days in a row, the price is then discounted. JADROLINIJA project aimed at involving the local community in the
Option two is the ‘Nextbike’ system where you can rent Boat lines to Kaprije, Prvić, Vodice, Zlarin and Žirje.QF‑4, process of greening and horticultural landscaping. It’s
The local tourist association offices listed in this guide and return a bike at any one of six city locations. The initial Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 7, tel. (+385-22) 21 34 68/ also meant to raise a sense of belonging, connectiv-
can help you out with a whole lot of information about amount you pay is 80kn and that amount is used as credit (+385 -22) 20 06 24, Open 05:30 - ity and local pride which tourists can definitely sense.
individual towns, resorts, parks and sights. We should for bicycle rental… FYI, each day users have a 30-minute 21:00. Sun Open 08:00 - 11:30, 18:00 - 21:00. October Think local, go global!
mention that the office hours tend to be rather eclectic, free ride available and if you surpass those 30 minutes; then Open 07:45 - 15:30, 18:00 - 19:30. Sun OPen 08:00 -
so you might want to check on their Web sites or give there is an additional 8kn hourly charge ( 11:30, 17:30 - 19:30.
them a call before trekking over.
TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE Rental and delivery of bikes can be arranged by email or PARKING Šibenik’s municipal bus service is operated by Autotrans-
QC‑4, Obala palih omladinaca 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 phone, and prices depend on the model varying from 100- Šibenik has both street parking and pay car parks. Street port Šibenik, with buses operating from around 06:00
44 11/(+385-22) 21 44 48, www.sibenik-tourism. 120 kn per day. This is reduced if rented for a longer period parking is split into four zones where parking is charged to 22:00. Most important routes for visitors are the no. 3
hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. July - August 31 Open of time.QC‑4, Obala palih omladinaca 7, tel. (+385-22) 1 June – 1 September at rates ranging between 3kn/hour (which runs from the city centre uphill to Šubićevac, pass-
08:00 - 22:00. September Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 41 02 59/(+385-) 095 914 24 49, and 10 kn/hour depending on the zone. You can also buy ing the 16th-century fortress on the way), the no. 6 (to the
08:00 - 14:00. Solaris hotel complex), and the no.5 (to Brodarica, jump-off
Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. day tickets at 67 – 165 kn.
There are car parks in two zones: the one in the Draga dis- point for the island of Krapanj). Best place to catch these
ASSOCIATION OF TOURIST GUIDES “MIHO- trict and at the railway station are in Zone A, while the car buses is the stop right beside the main market (tržnica),
VIL” ŠIBENIK CAR RENTAL park in the Poljana district is in Zone B. Prices are 6 – 10kn/ where there is a kiosk (Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:30.
QC‑4, Obala palih omladinaca 3 (TIC), tel. (+385-) Closed Sun) selling tickets and a timetable detailing depar-
099 684 10 16, tures (watch out for reduced services on Sundays). Single
QDraga 2, tel. (+385-) 099 616 37 63, www.rentacar- Beware of parking in dodgy places where your car might get towed away by the city authorities and impounded tickets on most lines cost 10kn, some longer routes 13kn
at the address Velimira Škorpika 5, at a place euphemisti-
EURO-SAN cally named “Služba za premještanje vozila” – the “Service
QE‑3, Trg Ivana Pavla II 5, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, AUTOTRANSPORT D.D.
QNova V 5, tel. (+385-) 091 300 33 12/(+385-) 091 200 for relocating vehicles.” How benign! They will kindly return Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, QG‑2, Draga 14, tel. (+385-22) 21 64 44,
29 00, Open 08:00 - 22:00. A your vehicle to you in return for your payment of the sum
of 400 kn plus 50 kn for each day spent in the pound. The
NOVA pound is open on working days 08:00 – 20:00, Sat 08:00
QTrg Drage 12, tel. (+385-22) 33 15 55/(+385-) 099 265 – 14:00. Closed Sun. If you spot the car catchers in the act TAXI
QE‑3, Fausta Vrančića 18, tel. (+385-22) 21 20
90 95, Open 08:00 - 21:00. A of loading your iron steed onto a terrible vehicle known in
75, Open 07:00 - 15:00. The easiest way to get a cab is to call (+385-22) 21 21
Closed Sat, Sun. Croatian as the pauk, or “spider”, you might get away with 21; otherwise you’ll find them at ranks outside the bus
a fine of just 200kn. More information on tel. 022 218 459,
FERRIES 091 120 08 23 or
station or on the Poljana square just outside the Old
ŠIBENIK KNIN COUNTY TOURIST BOARD Town. The start-up fare is 40kn which includes the first
Šibenik is the perfect place to indulge in a bit of island hop-
QE‑3, Fra Nikole Ružića bb, tel. (+385-22) 21 90 five kilometers, followed by 10kn per kilometre, 5kn per
ping, with 2-3 daily Šibenik-Vodice ferries (4-5 in summer GRADSKI PARKING
72, Open 07:30 - 15:30. baggage item. We recommend that you check before-
but watch out for reduced services on Sunday) sailing via QDraga 14, tel. (+385-22) 21 22 05, www.gradski-
Closed Sat, Sun. hand if waiting is included in the price for the first 5km.
the enchanting islands of Zlarin and Prvić. The trip is a sce-

62 Šibenik In Your Pocket Summer 2017 63

Crkva sv. Danijel

St. Daniel Church




50 km

50 km





Šibenik Basics

50 km

50 km





Sheep’s milk


Ovčji sir

Tematski park Etnoland

Etnoland Theme park
hol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in


The rock partridge
urban areas is 50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h

St. John Church

Crkva sv. Ivan

on secondary roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they

Assumption of the Blessed


Crkva uznesenja BDM
Industrijska zona Podi
Entrepreneurial Zone

Virgin Mary Church
say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

St. Peter Church
Crkva sv. Petar

St. Lawrence Church

Samostan Majke od milosti

Crkva sv. Lovre
Mother of Mercy Convent



cemetery Kosa
Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café

Early Croatian

groblje Kosa
culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does

St. John Church

Crkva sv. Ivan
mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establish-

Sokolarski centar

Crkva sv. Margarita
Our Lady of Health Church
NP Krka

St. Margaret Church
Crkva Gospa od zdravlja

Falconry Centre


Crveno grožđe
ments are more packed than usual. Recent law amend-



Red grapes



50 km

50 km

Red grapes

St. Anna Church
ments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits

Crkva sv. Ana


or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces


Bijelo grožđe
including restaurants where it has never been easy to find

White grapes
NP Krka
Šibenik Tourist Board Archives a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re pre-


Olive tree

Konjički klub Pegasus
pared to move inside.



Riding club Pegasus

Fortification wall
Gradsko groblje Kvanj
Konjički klub Kolan

The mouflon
City Cemetery Kvanj
There are no custom limits between member states or tax

Riding club Kolan


Ziziphus jujuba

park - Šubićevac


return. For other non-member states we recommend you






50 km

50 km
to follow info at There are two public toilets in Šibenik. One is by the theatre,



Tvrđava Barone
Barone Fortress

it’s open all year round 07:00 – 21:00, costs 5kn, and is a istrala

a mag

Morska spužva
bit ancient but decent enough. The other is by St James’


Krapanj Island
Otok Krapanj


Cathedral, it’s open only during the summer months, again

Tvrđava sv. Ivana


St. John Fortress


07:00 – 21:00, price 5kn.

Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take





50 km

50 km


The rock partridge


shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is


still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car



Holy Cross Church

Sponge museum collection

Muzejska zbirka spužvi
Crkva sv. Križ
parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at

or a



Red scorpionfish

least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping cen- Croatian Visa Policies is fully compliant with European


Z vo

Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary Church



tres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new Union Visa Policy and Standards. So what does that ex-

K ra

European pilchard

Tvrđava sv. Mihovila
Wild boar
buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can actly mean? All citizens of states that require visas to en-

St. Michael Fortress
Crkva uznesenja BDM

Zapadna magistrala



ter other EU member countries also need a visa to enter

expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to

Lake Soline Velike
Soline velike
most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you Croatia. Therefore, before visiting Croatia, be sure to visit

Katedrala sv. Jakova

St. James Cathedral
inquire about your destination in relation to these matters the Croatian Embassy in your respective country of origin.

Flathead mullet

Plaža Banj
City Beach
and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit

Scallop Pectinidae

Walk path
Jakobova kapica


arrival as accessible as possible. other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain

Mediterranean mussel

Marina Solaris
a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing

. An te
through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border

Flathead mullet

Soline male
Lake Soline
Ka na l sv

without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to



Zlarin Island
Otok Zlarin
The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the enter Croatia.

Crkva sv. Vida
St. Vid Church

United States will need to use a transformer to run electri-

Gospa od Rašelja
Our Lady of Raselj
St. Michael Church

Crkva Marijinog Uznesenja
cal appliances.

Crkva sv. Mihovil

Assumption of the Blessed

Crveni koralj
Virgin Mary Church
Olive tree

Common dentex
Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

St. Nicholas Fortress

Red coral
Tvrđava sv. Nikola


Jedrenje na dasci
There are plenty of exchange offices around Šibenik, as

Bungee skokovi Bungee Jumping

Marina Zaton

well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four

Kupalište Jadrija
Jadrija Beach
Pristanište Dock

St. Rocco Church
Šibenik i okolica
Sibenik area map

Crkva sv. Roko
hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Šibenik signifi- Plaža Beach

Bus station

Muzejska zbirka koralja
Coral museum collection

cantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should

Trgovački centar Shopping park
cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount

Olive tree

Lupac Island
of cash on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an
Ronjenje Diving

Otok Lupac

Zmajan Island
Otok Zmajan
Muzej Museum

Crveno grožđe Our Lady of Srima Church
in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emer-
Kamp Camp

Informacije Information Center

Crkva Gospa Srimska
Benzinska postaja Gas station


Žirje Island
Otok Žirje
amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as find- gency Number (+385) 112 which then transfers you to
ing places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem. police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city


Gradina Fortress
Memorijalni centar Faust Vrančić
Biciklistička staza Cycling track


St. Peter Church

district, in case you were involved in an accident or were

Crkva sv. Petar
Šetnice Walk path

Tvrđava Fortress

Hotel Accommodation

arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In

Crkva sv. Marija
St. Mary Church

Kaprije Island
Faust Vrancic Memorial

Otok Kaprije
Vezovi Moorings

Bunja domaćinova
Red grapes

Bunja domaćinova
that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main
When behind the wheel drivers must always have their building for ER is located in General Hospital in Stjepana

20 nm

Bolnica Hospital
Vodeni park AquaPark

driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them. Radića 83 (L- 3) where everything necessary will be done.
Our Lady of Okitska Church
zastava Blue Flag beach
Katedrala Cathedral

Kakan Island

Otok Kakan

Zelena šljiva
Crkva Gospa Okitska

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385)

Crkva sv. Marija

Green plum
Marina Marina

St. Mary Church
St. Jelena Church
Crkva sv. Jelena
Archeological site

Prvić Luka
and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alco- 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call (+385)195.

Prvic Island
Wind surfing


Otok Prvić


64 Šibenik In Your Pocket
A B C D E Tvrđava Barone - Šubićevac F
Barone Fortress
Tvrđava sv. Ivana a
St. John Fortress uka

Put V



Ul. Paška Zjačića
1 Tijatska ul.

anino P Groblje sv. Spasa

16 Ive Z Istarska ul. St. Saviour Cemetery

Groblje sv. Nediljica Težačka ul.


Ulica Petra Grubišića
e Poli
NIGHT St. Nediljica Cementery


rt a

Plaža Banj

City beach


Miminac ul.
300 m

Moderato cantabile

Pro tg

la z k ro z zidi n e ro

e Vidikovac Kralja Zvonimira
View point
2 Srimsk
Kninska P 15


Bonina iz Milana
Put grob
le Hrvatsko narodno kazalište
on Croatian National Theatre

ta Vra

ra N

J. M

a oka


onim itelja Sk Gradska knjižnica




Ul. Grad

zališta City Library



Starog ka 300 m






ice J




Groblje sv. Ane 5 e Cr 6 Držislava TAXI





Tvrđava sv. Mihovila St. Ana Cemetery a 17 11



šan un Trg Dinka

Martinska St. Michael Fortress čka

tje tov Zavorovića a
J. U nik Trg reb

a ze

Svete Luce
vom rtez
Pod tvrđa pučkih o
F. Dismanića
kapetana H. F 2

Strme stube

Ulica Vladimira
Trg Ivana Trg
I. Mrn Muzej benediktinskog a Trg Julija

avića Pavla II Ivana
samostana sv. Luce

Gorana Perivoj


J. Š
Srednjevjekovni St. Luce Treasury of
ića om

NIGHT Roberta
rič Benedictine Monastery Kovačića
. Zo aT

LIFE samostanski

j Visianija

A vrt sv. Lovre al



Bukova M. Kolunića M. Kolunića St. Lawrence Medieval

čka ića Fra

Mediterranean Garden

Biskupa Fo




14 iko

le 3.

Ru 87

ja 1

Jurja žić Trg ečn


J. Barakov
Ob Prominska ića a . sij

S.J. Čulinovića
Dalm 15
ala ač palih Šibenskih
atin 21 eK

prv ca rij boraca


ca va a Trg Sp
10 isla Nakić

13 Tave lits
19 Nikole

a stu
Bu A. K. Miošića
om Mesarske s. Petra li ća ki
Ha Jurja Dalm Stube A. Medulića lj aT Tommasea pu


rol atinca Mali


17 J. Šižgorić


J. Barakov


NIGHT ća F. Divnića Vodička
LIFE 20 Trg Republike

Ulica gradska vrata
a čka


g Julij
Hrvatske Akvarij
Aquarium Usko
Trg 4 bunara -

Autobusni kolodvor

srednjevjekovna cisterna

Square of the Four Wells -
18 8

7 na Bus station
Medieval underground cistern

plan stare gradske jezgre Oba

200 m
la p 1 Crkveni muzej Trg Tu
4 old city center map alih
Church Museum
r. F
ala d
Šubića Ob
om rvić
P Ob ala
hrv 300 m
1 Katedrala sv. Jakova St. James Cathedral 13 Crkva sv. Grgura St. Gregory’s Church nac ats Pristanište
a Biskupska palača
Kneževa palača - ke
2 Crkva sv. Ivana St. John’s Church 14 Crkva sv. Lovre St. Lawrence Church
The Bishop’s Palace
Muzej grada Šibenika mo
Duke’s Palace – The nar 500 m
3 Crkva sv. Frane, samostan i muzej St. Franci’s Church and Monastery 15 Crkva Gospe vanka Grada “Gospe Vanka Grada” Church Sibenik City Museum
MULO ice
4 Crkva sv. Krševana St. Grisogonu’s Church (Krševan) 16 Crkva sv. Nediljice St. Nediljica Church
5 Nova Crkva New Church 17 Gradska vijećnica The Town Hall
Benzinska postaja
6 Crkva sv. Duha Church of the Holy Spirit 18 Palača Rossini Rossini Palace
P Gas station
7 Crkva sv. Nikole St. Nichola’s Church 19 Palača Foscolo Foscolo Palace Vezovi

8 Crkva sv. Barbare St. Barbara’s Church 20 Palača Pellegrini Pellegrini Palace Moorings

9 Crkva sv. Križa Church of the Holy Cross 21 Palača Gogala Gogala Palace

10 Crkva Svi Sveti All Saint’s Church 22 Benediktanski samostan sv. Luce St. Luce Benedictine Monastery

11 Crkva Uspenie Bogomatere Ascension Church 23 Crkva sv. Spasa St Savior Church
12 Crkva sv. Dominika St. Dominic’s Church
P Parkiralište Parking lot Ljekarna Pharmacy Info centar Information Center Hotel/Hostel Accommodation WC Toilets Noćni život Night life Vidikovac View point

15.1.1873. D/E-2 Dolac B-3 J. Mondelle A-2 Nikole Vladanova D-2/3 Put Splita F-2 Sv. Julijana E-3/4 Trg pućkih kapetana D-3 Zlarinska E-4 Dolac, Šibenik Tourist Board Archives
17 buntovnika C-2 Don Krste Stošića D/E-3 J. Utješanovića D-3 Nove crkve E-2 Put Tanaje C-1 Sv. Križa A-2 Trg Republike Hrvatske D-4
A. Zorčića C/D-3 Dragojevićeve stube D-3 J. Petrovića D-2 Obala F. Tuđmana E/F-4 Put tvrđavama D-1 Sv. Luce D-3 Ul. Sedmog kontin. D/E-1
Andrije Kačića C-2 Eugena Kvaternika G-3 Jurja Dalmatinca B/C-3 Obala hr. mornarice G-4 Put Vuka Mandušića E-1 Sv. Nikole Tavelića F-3 Ul. Graditelja D-2
Antuna Vrančića F-3 F. Dismanića D-3 Jurja Šišgorića F-3 Ob.palih omladinaca B/D-4 Riječka F/G-2 Sv. Spasa G-1 Ul. gradska vrata D-4
B. Fulgosi D-2 F. Divinića D-3/4 Kninska D-2 Obala prvoboraca A-2 Sarajevska G-3 Šubićev. šetalište E/F-1 Ul. Petra Grubišića G-1/2
Biskupa Fosca F-3 Fausta Vrančića E-2 Kralja Tomislava E/F-3 Paške Zjačića E-1 S. Čulinovića D-3 Težačka E/F-1 Ul. Vladimira Nazora G-2/3
Blajburskih žrtava G-1/2 Fra Nikole Ružića E-3 Kralja Zvonimira C/G-3 Pekarska E-3 Skoka D-2 Tijatska C/D-1 Uskočka F-4
Bonnina iz Milana E-2 Fra S. Zlatovića G-3 Kraljice Jelene F-2 Perivoj Roberta Visianija G-3 Skradinska D-2 Trg Dinka Zavorovića E-3 Varoš E-2
Božidara Petranovića E-2/3 Grgura Ninskog E-2 Krste Stošića D/E-3 Petra Nakića F-3 Splitski put G-3 Trg I. G. Kovačića F-3 Vodička E-3/4
Braće Polić D-1/2 H. Fortenezze E-3 M. Kolunića C/D-3 Pod tvrđavom C-3 Srimska A-2 Trg Ivana Pavla II E-3 Vukman E-1
Bregovita B/C-1 I. Mrnavića C-3 Mali prolaz C-3 Poljana F/G-2 St.P.Kaera D-4 Trg Julija Skjavetića F-3 Z.Bege E-1
Bukovačka C-3 Istarska C/D-1 Mesarske stube E-3 Prolaz kroz zidine A-2 Stara cesta C-1 Trg kralja Držislava F-2 Zadarska D-1, E-2
Buta Har. Bilinića B/C-3/4 Ivana Pribislavića E-3 Miminac F-1/2 Prominska C-3 Starog kazališta E/F-2 Trg Nikole Tommasea F-3 Zagrađe A/B-2
Crnica A-1 Ive Zaninovića A/B-1 Mulo Krke G-4 Prvička D-4 Strme stube D-3 Trg palih Šib. boraca E-3 Zagrebačka E/F-3
Dobrić E-3 J. Barakovića F-3/4 Nikole Tesle F/G-1 Put groblja C-2 Stube A. Medulića D-3 Trg Pavla Šubića E-4 Zatonska B-2

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