High Plains Modelers

High Plains Gazette
Volume 1, Issue 9

July 2011

July Meeting Notes
September 17th, there is an IPMS day at Pueblo at the air museum. Different clubs will be there and we will have 1 table for a display. Popular choice for best Region X chapter display. Vendors, swap meet and free make and take, Free BBQ. $20 for vendor table. September 24th, Wingnutcon in Denver at Wings Over the Rockies. BBQ at Randy‟s on July
1st Annual Club BBQ Workbench from Hell July Calendar IPMS Membership App

30th at 4pm. (See story on page 4 and pictures on page 17) IPMS elections, please vote. (It is really easy to vote, I did!) We had a short business agenda this month because we have a lot of contest business and a great clinic on using Mig Washes, Filters and Pigments.

“Why is there a fence here?”

Inside this issue:
July Meeting Notes Omaha Update Guest Review

1 2 3 4 10 11 21

High Plains Con XXII Update
First off, Randy and I choose the medals, we ordered them, and they are here. They look good, and we have a few pictures of them posted on page 17. Now for the fun part. We received another sponsor last month, IPMS Rob Wolf who is sponsoring two categories! We also drafted the last of our troops to fill key positions at the contest. We have Gary as the vendor wrangler. Mike has agreed to create the floor plan/layout, and he also volunteered to be the bullhorn. George volunteered to be the official photographer. Larry was drafted (notice I did not say volunteered) to handle the registration software. Dave is working on his head judges. We will still need volunteers to judge at the contest, and hope that many of you who are coming will judge. I volunteered to be the Master of Ceremonies. I honestly have a bigger fear of death and snakes than public speaking so I don‟t mind yapping in front of everyone. Next month hopefully Randy and I have the Best of Plaques ready, we also plan on having the mini flyers hit all the local hobby shops and shows going on. Then Pablo and I need to get an ad in the Journal and we can relax, until October 8th.

What’s New This Month:
 Jeff‟s War Movie Review  Review: Quickboost 40 mm  July Model Gallery  Part 5 of George‟s M-16 Build  Swedish Meatballs  Anchors Aweigh Lyrics  Club BBQ pics

High Plains Gazette

Monthly Contest
This month we still had a very good turnout for the monthly contest, and once again Gary won. Yes, he does amazing work, but other clubs who read our newsletter might start to think we are the “Gary Moore Club”. Gary brought a French Fire truck. Pablo brought a Bandai 1/48 Sherman. Jeff brought a 1/72 Fine Molds X-Wing. Scott brought a (no surpsrise) 1/72 Horch. Tim brought a War Game “French” army. Mike brought some Trench warfare figures. Dave brought a 1/48 Kubelwagen. Jerry brought a 1/25 1962 Chevy Impala SS Convertible. Gary has a stranglehold on first place, but I think we still have a four way tie for second. (Scott, Dave, Pablo and I) This is going to turn out to be a fun three months, especially since some of us have been saving our best for Omaha. Still, I love seeing us build, that‟s why we are a model club.

Dave’s Kubelwagen

Things to do in Omaha
...climbing on board a vintage bomber from World War II
Imagine walking over a swinging bridge in the largest indoor rainforest in the world at Omaha's Henry Doorly Zoo, climbing on board a vintage bomber from World War II at the Strategic Air and Space Museum, climbing in restored train cars at The Durham Museum or doing a science experiment with a giant Gravitron ball at the Omaha Children's Museum. Picture yourself surrounded by an incredible arboretum and bird sanctuary, taking a cultural walk through the first Latino art and history museum in the Midwest, El Museo Latino, or enjoying a romantic gondola ride at Heartland of America Park and Fountain. Imagine no more, visit Omaha, it's all right here. (**Article taken from www.visitomaha.com)

Omaha IPMS National Update
On Saturday, August 6, re -enactors will visit the convention from approximately 10 a.m. - 2 p.m. Most will be in WWII uniforms although some will be dressed as far back as Civil War soldiers. They tentatively plan to bring with them an Sd.Kfz.251 half-track, perhaps up to three Sd.Kfz 222 scout cars, some Jeeps, an M20 halftrack, an M3 White halftrack and a 45mm Russian anti-tank gun. Also, a unit of the Commemorative Air Force in nearby Council Bluffs, Iowa believes its aircraft will be in its hangar during our convention. The Great Plains Wing of the CAF has the P-51 "Gunfighter," and an L-3 and an L-5 observation aircraft plus a small museum in its hangar. The unit is normally open Wednesday, 6-9 p.m. and Saturday 9 a.m. - 4 p.m. The wing's hangar is approximately 20 miles east of the convention site on I -80 and then 3 more miles on two-lane roads with well-marked directions. The vendors room is a sell out with over 300 vendors! There are over 300 of us that have pre-registered for the contest, which should make for a very exciting show. By the time the newsletter is published the show will be a week away.

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Swedish Meatballs: Saab 210 and J35J
By Chuck Holte (IPMS Legacy, Colorado Springs, CO) The Saab 35 Draken (Dragon) program began in the early „50s as a Flygvapnet (Swedish Air Force) requirement to develop a replacement for the J29 Tunnan (Barrel) and the A/J 32 Lansen (Lance). Saab 210, a double-delta wing prototype known as the “Lill Draken” (Little Dragon) was first flown in 1952. Three versions of the Little Dragon with variations of engine inlet geometry, were flown extensively (nearly 900 test flights), resulting in the definitive Draken profile. With the first flight of the 35-1 prototype in 1955, Saab built 615 Drakens which served the Swedish, Finnish, Austrian, and Danish Air Forces throughout the Cold War, soldering on until the last Austrian J35D retired in 2005. As part of an ongoing project to model Flygvapnet aircraft in 1/72 scale, I thought it would be fun to do the beginning and end of the Swedish Draken program. The Lill Draken test aircraft is/was available as a garage resin kit (DA 72259, not sure of the manufacturer) …mine came in a plastic bag found at a modelers swap meet vendors table. A bit on the crude side with some fit problems and skimpy decals (tail markings only; the circular photo reference target and the letter “U”), it nonetheless made up into a reasonable model of the test aircraft in one of it‟s final configurations. The kit included a seat, instrument panel with raised detail and two thin, clear vacform canopy/ windscreen parts. Landing gear struts/legs bits were unusable and replaced with scratch-built items. Lots of superglue and filler were needed in the basic construction, along with lots of wet sanding. I rescribed most of the panel lines, primed with Model Master enamel and finished with Alclad II dull aluminum. National insignia from the spares box, sealed with Floquil Flat. The J35J kit is a Revell Germany rebox of the excellent Hasegawa kit of a few years ago. The box can be readily identified by the bright red and white J35 Draken demo/ display scheme of the Austrian Air Force. Those markings are included; as are the decals and illustrations for the Swedish Draken I modeled. Alternate parts/instructions are provided for both the Austrian and Swedish aircraft; the kit provides for the J35J IR sensor under the nose, but gun ports are molded in both wing shoulders. The Swedish “J” only had a gun in the starboard (right) side, so I filled the port in the left shoulder. Paint is Model Master gray enamel on top and Alclad aluminum on the belly pan. References: Saab 35 Draken by Mikhail Putnikov, Squadron Signal, 2010. Aerofax Minigraph 12 Saab J35 Draken, by Robert F. Dorr, Rene Francillon and Jay Miller, Aerofax Inc., 1987.

Volume 1, Issue 9

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High Plains Gazette

Review Quickboost 40mm Cannon
Reviewer: Pablo Bauleo Manufacturer: Quickboost Product: QB 48255 1/48 40 mm Cannon Barrels Hurricane Mk IID casted in grey resin, with a bubble-free, smooth finish. The molding cast includes two side “walls” to prevent accidental damage of the parts while in transit or storage. Removal of the parts should be easy, with either a hobby saw or even by scoring with a #11 blade if you take your time. Pictures are shown of the plastic injection molded cannons from Hasegawa and the nicely detailed resin version from Quickboost, side by side. By comparing the parts I‟ve noticed that the Quickboost ones are slightly larger in diameter (by 0.1 mm) and about 1.5 mm longer. I do not know which manufacturer got it closer to scale. The cannon barrels ends are hollow and dead centered. They look much better than I could have ever made the plastic parts look, by using a hand-drill and a drill bit. To attach the resin cannons, you will have to do some minor surgery to the original parts, as Hasegawa has molded the cannons as one piece together with the underwing fairings. Quickboost has delivered another little gem, and these cannons are going to look excellent in your finished model. You can order these resin cannons from www.quickboost.net. Let them know that you‟ve seen a review of their products in the IPMS website. I would like to thank Quickboost for providing the review sample and IPMS for the chance to review it.

QB 48255 1/48 40 mm Cannon Barrels Hurricane Mk IID

MSRP: 3.30 Euro from http:// www.quickboost.net This review was first published in the IPMS/USA website http:// www.ipmsusa.org The 40 mm cannon are a high visibility part in a Hurricane MkII.D and Quickboost has produced another “quick” way to “boost” your model, by producing a seam-free, flash-free reproduction of the 40 mm cannon for the tank-buster hurricane. The cannons are perfectly

Quickboost has delivered another little gem.

High Plains Modelers 1st Annual BBQ
On Saturday July 30th we held our First Annual Club BBQ at Randy‟s house. We had a great turn out. There was some really good food and desserts. Being what the Food Network calls a “foodie” I sampled a bit of everything, and I have to say it was all good. While it is true people had their favorite dishes and desserts, I actually did not taste anything bad. That is rare for a pot luck gathering. Usually someone has a dish that everyone avoids. My son and I loved Gary‟s baked beans. I thought it was ironic that Randy mentioned we might have everyone show up with a bag of chips, and we actually had nobody bring chips. I for one am glad we did this. It was fun and a chance for us to socialize and share some good times. A big thanks to Randy and Jamie for sharing their home with us for the BBQ. Hopefully we can do it again next year. (Or maybe for the Christmas party?)

JB’s famous “Life After Death By Chocolate” cake.

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IPMS Handbook: ARMOR
Basic Construction Flash, sink marks, mold marks, ejector-pin marks, provisions for motorization eliminated. Seams filled where applicable, especially on cylindrical parts such as gun barrels, wheels, and auxiliary equipment. Contour errors corrected. Gaps between upper and lower hulls blanked off to prevent a "see-through" effect. Gap/overlap at point where track ends join eliminated. Machine guns, main guns, exhausts, vents, etc. drilled out/opened up. Cylindrical cross-section of gun barrels maintained. Track pattern (cleats) facing in the proper direction on both sides of vehicle. Alignment: Road wheels on tracked vehicles (along with idler, drive, and return rollers, if any) at the same distance from the lower chassis centerline. Road wheels sitting flush on the track. Tracks vertical (not leaning in or out when viewed from the front or back of the vehicle) and parallel (not toed in or out when viewed from top of vehicle). All wheels/tracks sitting firmly on the ground. Vehicle components square and aligned. Gun(s) (on most turreted vehicles) parallel to turret centerline when viewed from above. Items positioned symmetrically on actual vehicle (e.g., headlights and guards, fenders, mud flaps, etc.) positioned symmetrically on model, unless represented as damaged. Details Parts that are thick, overscale, or coarse should be thinned, modified, or replaced. Weld marks should be simulated where applicable. Extra parts should be added if practical, with references used to confirm their existence on the actual vehicle. Such parts should be as close to scale as possible. Add (especially on conversion or scratch-built models) the small detail parts (rivets, nuts and bolts, etc.) usually found in standard injectionmolded kits. Add tarps, bedrolls, chains, fuel cans, etc., but be sure to also add some method by which such items are attached to the vehicle (hook, rope, tie down). Jerrycans are not attached to real tanks with superglue. Aftermarket parts (photoetched, white metal, resin, etc.) should integrate well with the basic model. Photo-etched parts that require forming should be precisely shaped, and any surfaces that require building up to a thicker cross-section should be smooth and uniform. Molded-on parts such as axes and shovels should be undercut or removed completely and replaced. This is especially true of molded screen, which should be replaced with real screen. Track "sag" on tracked vehicles should be duplicated where appropriate. Windshield wipers should be added where appropriate. Headlights and tail lights should be drilled out and have lenses added. Cable and electrical lines should be added to lights and smoke dischargers. Valve stems should be added to tires. CONTINUED ON PAGE 18

Volume 1, Issue 9

Flash, sink marks, mold marks, ejectorpin marks, provisions for motorization eliminated.

A 1/48 Jagdtiger

“The Judges Are a Bunch of @#$ %# Nit-pickers.” - From the IPMS Competition Handbook

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High Plains Gazette

Detailing Dragon’s M-16 GMC Part 5
Detailing Dragon’s M16 Multiple Motor Gun Carriage Kit No. 6381 By George Slack
PART 5: Finishing

Photo 1: Dust and mud effects in the cab built up with two or three applications of a Humbrol matt 83 filter.

Due to the cab and open fighting compartment most of the painting was done during construction. A 70-30 mix of Tamiya olive drab and dark yellow was used. For areas that would be inaccessible later in the build, a filter of Humbrol matt 83 represented dust and muddy boot prints. This was slowly built up until a dusty/dried mud effect was realized. Two or three applications seemed to do the trick. (Photo 1.) Decaling began with the armored radiator louvers. Several magazine articles have commented on how the author had chosen the closed louver option to simplify the decal process, but handling the separate louvers if really easier than it looks. The key is a decaling jig. I made mine from scrap Plastistruct sheet and Langles. (Photo 2.) Photo 2-a shows the primed, painted and glossed louvers placed in the jig. The square stock at the bottom allows the etch parts to slide into the jig and be held tightly in place. Apply the decal as usual. I used Micro Sol to make sure it conformed tightly

to the painted louvers. (Photo 2-b.) Once the star had dried overnight I used a new #11 blade to slice along each louver (Photo 2-c.) The finished louvers are shown in Photo 2-d. Before removing the louvers from the jig I gave them a second coat of Micro Sol to help snug down the cut edges. The registration number and the bumper codes were added using the kit decals. Except for the “USA” marking the decal sheet provides individual letters and numbers. It‟s a mixed blessing; it‟s much easier to model a particular vehicle using this system but getting all of the letters and numbers evenly spaced and aligned can be a challenge. Since I was not modeling a particular M16 I went with a generic registration number. (Photo 3.) It is a valid number for the M-16 series but with my luck it probably served in the Pacific. It really won‟t matter anyway as the extra gear strapped to the fenders means the entire registration number will never be seen again. The bumper codes represent a vehicle of the 197th Antiaircraft Artillery (mobile) which supported the 1st Infantry Division on D-Day. The 197th fielded both 90mm antiaircraft guns and M-16‟s

during the invasion. (Photo 4.) Allied stars went on next and here‟s where I got interesting. The side stars went on without incident but the star on the hood gave me nothing but trouble. I wanted a star with a broken circle but the kit only provides a hood stars with a solid circle around it. I dipped into my Dragon mortar carrier kit (Kit # 6163) and applied the hood star as usual. Opps! For some reason the star was not printed evenly and the body color showed through in many places (Photo 5). I‟m not sure what happened, but at this point the half-track nearly became an aircraft and took a flying lesson into the nearest wall. Once the Micro Sol was on and the decal dried it looked like badly scraped paint. I decided to enhance this look by dry brushing with the body color. No bad decal here; the hood was scratched by the movement of all those packs and boxes I would add later. That‟s my story and I‟m sticking to it. Things only got better when I clear coated the decals. I used an acrylic flat as I was planning on using oil washes for weathering. I airbrushed the model early in the morning and the clear flat

Photo 2: Decaling the armored radiator louvers. A. The four louvers in their jig. The jig is Evergreen L-angle glued to a styrene base. B. The kit star decal has been added and set using the Micro Sol System. C. After drying, the decal is cut using a new #11 blade. D. The cut decals were over coated with Testors Dulcote before they were removed from the jig.

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Detailing Dragon’s M-16 GMC Part 5 cont.
went on slightly milky as usual. I returned home several hours later and the clear coat was dry but still milky. Disaster! I don‟t have any photos of the kit at this point because I quite honestly thought I was done and the project was headed for the dust bin. After waiting a couple of days to make sure the clear coat was completely cured I tried shooting the model with a thin coat of Future. The milkyness disappeared and the project was saved. Needless to say, the next clear coat was flat lacquer and not acrylic. With the project back in business I moved on to the stowed gear common to Allied vehicles of the period. My original plan was to make all of the rolled tarps and bedrolls from Miliput superfine white, adding lead straps and wire buckles (Photo 5). To explain the well worn hood star I would need a lot more stowed gear than I was prepared to create on my own. Various resin storage set came to the rescue (Photos 6 and 7) but they took some time to track down and ship. They arrived in time to get primed and painted, but my deadline arrived before I could begin the final weathering on the M-16. Next time we‟ll look at adding splashed mud, dust and rain streaks to the finished kit along with the creation of a simple Normandy setting to show the halftrack as it may have looked in late June, 1944.

Volume 1, Issue 9

Photo 3: The registration number. Individual letters and numbers are a challenge to align and space; most of the work here will be hidden by rolled tarps and bedrolls.

Photo 6: A rolled tarp made from thinly rolled Milliput superfine white putty. Using a bit of baby powder prevents the Milliput from sticking to the roller, in this case an ink pen. Straps are lead from an old wine bottle with .010 copper wire buckles.

Photo 7: A Blast Models tarp painted and glued to the left fender.

Photo 4: The 197th Antiaircraft artillery went ashore at the Easy Red Sector of Omaha Beach on D-day in support of the 1st Infantry Division and remained in action with the First Army until VE-Day, a total of 339 operational days.

Photo 8: Resin kit bags and canteen; unfortunately I don’t know the manufacturer. I added a rope from cotton thread dyed with tea as I don’t like the look of gear “floating” on the side of a vehicle.

Photo 5: The hood star after application. Not really what you want to see when you only have one decal and you’re working on a deadline.

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High Plains Gazette

The Workbench From Hell
Women and men are different. Statistically for 90 percent of us that is a good thing. One big area we are different is crying during movies. Yes, I said “crying” during movies! Women get all misty eyed during romantic movies and sad movies where you lose a main character to some tragedy. Most men avoid seeing these films, or if we are dragged to them we pretend it is an action flick, and the cancer eating through (insert female lead‟s) body is a small mutant army shrunk by a mad scientist because she is a cheating, lying, whore who should have never been mean to the dorky kid in high school who turned out to be an evil scientist. Men, we choose to cry at two types of movies… war and sports. Search your feelings, you know it to be true. Sure there might be an occasional fluke like “Toy Story 3”, but that is rare and far between. So, what movies are tearjerkers for men? Well, I know people who hate Notre Dame, but when Rudy takes the field and makes that sack we turn on the water works. For me I was sad at the end of “Saving Private Ryan” when Tom Hanks gets killed, and Ryan (James Francis Ryan, from Iowa) stands over his grave and salutes. When John Wayne gets it in “Sands of Iwo Jima” who isn‟t sad? (besides Gary who can‟t stand John Wayne) Seabiscuit, when he races War Admiral, brings a few tears. Especially since George has to ride for Red because of the accident. Brian‟s Song with Billy Dee Williams and James Caan… I hate the Bears but that is a sad, manly movie. Miracle, the movie and the actual game. “Who do you play for?” “I play for the United States of America.” Take that you Commie bastards. The Natural, of course if the movie ended like the book we would have felt ripped off, and more angry than sad. (For those who don‟t know, in the novel he strikes out after Wonderboy breaks.) The Pride of the Yankees. Again, millions of us hate the Yankees, but Gary Cooper plays Lou Gehrig, and his speech, and knowing that he will die helps the salty watery eyes commence. Why? What causes us to cry for these movies when we couldn‟t care less about (insert female star) dying some tragic death? Its not that we don‟t have feelings, it‟s just that we don‟t care.

“Nobody cried when Old Yeller got shot? I'm sure. I cried my eyes out.”

Men, we choose to cry at two types of movies … war and sports.

Today, I consider myself the luckiest man on the face of the earth. Rudy, Rudy, Rudy...
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Anchors Aweigh (Original Lyrics)
Verse 1 Stand Navy down the field Sails set to the sky We'll never change our course So Army you steer shy-y-y -y Roll up the score, Navy Anchors Aweigh Sail Navy down the field And sink the Army, sink the Army grey! Verse 2 Get under way, Navy Decks cleared for the fray We'll hoist true Navy Blue So Army down your greyy-y-y Full speed ahead, Navy Army heave to Furl Black and Grey and Gold And hoist the Navy, hoist the Navy Blue! Verse 3 Blue of the Seven Seas Gold of God's great sun Let these our colors be Till all of time be done-nn-ne By Severn shore we learn Navy's stern call Faith, courage, service true With honor over, honor over all.

Volume 1, Issue 9

AUGUST
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Page 9

High Plains Gazette

Photo of the Month for July

High Plains Modelers First Annual Club BBQ

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Volume 1, Issue 9

Model of the Month for June

Gary’s French Fire Truck

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High Plains Gazette

May Model Gallery Photos by Jeff Brown

Jeff’s 1/72 X-Wing

Pablo’s 1/48 Sherman

Garys Fire truck

Dave’s 1/48 Kubelwagen

Tim’s French Army

Scott’s Opel with AA gun

Jerry’s Convertible

Mike’s Bayonet Infantry

Jeff’s Mig Clinic

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Volume 1, Issue 9

High Plains Modelers Presents

HIGH PLAINS CON XXII “Cool Cats” October 8, 2011

The Ranch in Loveland
5280 Arena Circle Loveland, Colorado I-25 Exit 259 (Crossroads Blvd) Registration 9:30am-12:30pm Judging Begins around 1:00pm Awards to follow Judging Model Pick-Up 5:00pm No Previous IPMS or Regional Winners
IPMS Rules will be used for Judging. (Rulebook on hand.) Registration forms are available to download online at http://ipmshpm.blogspot.com/

High Plains Gazette
Special Awards Best Cat Themed Model Best Weathered Vehicle Best Race Car Best Star Wars Subject Best UAV Best Mopar Subject Worst Model Award Sponsor IPMS High Plains Modelers Mig Productions USA M&S Hobbies Anonymous Donor Chuck Holte Wyoming Mighty Mopar Club IPMS High Plains Modelers

Categories (Subject to change/splits – All decisions are final)
AIRCRAFT Military Single Engine Propeller 1/72 and smaller 1/48 to 1/50 1/32 and larger Military Multi Engine Propeller 1/72 and smaller 1/48 and larger Military Single Engine Jet 1/72 and smaller 1/48 and larger Military Multi Engine Jet 1/72 and smaller 1/48 and larger Civil, Sport, Racing, Commercial Rotary Wing (all scales) Junior AUTOMOTIVE (CIVILIAN VEHICLES) Cars Trucks Competition Commercial Heavy trucks Motorcycles Junior DIORAMAS All Scales Junior ARMOR Tanks 1/72nd 1/48th 1/35th Soft skin 1/72nd 1/48th 1/35th Half-Tracks & Armored vehicles 1/72nd 1/48th 1/35th ARTILLERY PIECES (ALL SCALES) Senior Junior SPACECRAFT Sci-Fi (all scales) Real (all scales) Junior NAUTICAL 1/700 and smaller 1/350 1/150 and larger Junior FIGURES All Scales Junior

Volume 1, Issue 9

First Annual HPM BBQ Photos by Jeff Brown

Tim Looking Away

Rico makes an appearance

Win looking down.

Tim and Win

Tony “Wyoming” Wallace

Want to know what your playing for?

Rico looking for food

Getting everything ready

On the back of the medals.

FOOD!

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High Plains Gazette

IPMS: Armor (Continued)
Instrument faces on dashboards should have detail picked out and lenses added. Gas and brake pedals should be added to openwheeled vehicles. Road wheel interiors should be detailed (this is especially necessary on the Hetzer). Molded grab handles and hatch levers should be replaced with wire or stretched sprue. cated. Exceptions such as zimmerit or non-slip surfaces should be documented. No brush marks, lint, brush hairs, etc. No "orange-peel" or "eggshell" effect; no "powdering" in recessed areas. No random differences in sheen of finish caused by misapplication of final clear coats. Paint edges that are supposed to be sharp should be sharp (no ragged edges caused by poor masking). Edges that are supposed to be soft or feathered should be in scale and without overspray. Weathering, if present, should show concern for scale (e.g., size of chipped areas), be consistent throughout the model, and be in accordance with the conditions in which the real vehicle was operating. Be careful to distinguish some of the purposely "heavy-handed" paint schemes from overzealous weathering. Extreme examples should be documented. Weathering should not be used to attempt to hide flaws in construction or finishing. Decals: Aligned properly. (If the real vehicle had a markings anomaly, the modeler should provide documentation to show that he is deliberately duplicating someone else's error, not inadvertently making one of his own.) No silvering or bubbling of decal film. Decal film should be eliminated or hidden to make the markings appear painted on. Colors: Paint colors, even from the same manufacturer and mixed to the same specs, can vary from batch to batch. Different operating environments can change colors in different ways. All paints fade from the effects of weather and sunlight, and viewing distance alone can change the look of virtually any color. Poor initial application and subsequent maintenance compound these problems. Therefore, color shade should not be used to determine a model' s accuracy. Models with unusual colors or color schemes should be accompanied by documentation.

A T-55.

No random differences in sheen of finish caused by misapplication of final clear coats.

Underside of model, if viewable, should be given the same attention to detail as the top; e.g., motor holes filled, paint applied, weathering on the inside of the road wheels consistent with that on the outside. If the vehicle being modeled was weathered, normal wear and tear to the bottom of the hull from riding over the usual rocks, brush, and other obstacles should be visible on the model. Painting and finishing The model's surface, once painted, should show no signs of the construction process (glue, file, or sanding marks; fingerprints; obvious discontinuities between kit plastic and filler materials; etc.).

An APC which is “armor”. Think about it.
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Finish should be even and smooth, unless irregularities in the actual vehicle's finish are being dupli-

Jeff’s War Movie Review: Stalag 17
Stalag 17 (1953), starring William Holden, is in my opinion the best movie about POW‟s during World War II and perhaps the best movie about the war. It is definitely a top 3 for me, and it is also one of my favorite Christmas movies. Christmas movies? Yes, I said Christmas movies. Watch the movie and then you will understand. The movie takes place in Stalag 17, a POW camp in Germany. I don‟t want to spoil anything for those who have not seen it, but this film has everything you want in a war movie. There is action, drama, comedy, sadness, and mystery all rolled into one film. Honestly I have always been a William Holden fan, and as you may or may not know he was in one of the other premier films about POW‟s in World War II, “Bridge on the River Kwai”. He won an Academy Award for his role in “Stalag 17” and gave the second shortest speech in Oscar history. He simply said, “Thank you.” (Shame modern actors can‟t take a hint.) The movie has a great cast, including Otto Preminger and a very young Peter Graves. The plot is simple, there is a POW camp that has a German spy in it… this spy keeps disrupting the camp life for the GI‟s. Ahhh but who is the spy? That is the mystery. As I said, I don‟t want to spoil the movie, if you don‟t want to watch the film but still want to know what happens go to Wikipedia. If, however, you want to enjoy one of the all time greatest films about World War II then watch “Stalag 17”. Whatever your rating system this film deserves all the stars you can give it, and then some. A 10+ on my scale!!!

Volume 1, Issue 9

Why don't you just tell them it's me, because I'm really the illegitimate son of Hitler...

Maybe he just wanted to steal our wire cutters did you ever think of that?

August Special
COMRADES! Russian Posters Sale

Russian Poster Sale
For August we are having a special on our Russian Posters, normally they are $6.00 each this month they are $5.00 each!
Kahuna Designs Inc.

Kahuna Designs
jgdtiger007@yahoo.com
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High Plains Gazette

Classified Ads***
For Sale or Trade: Jeff Brown has items for sale and trade, see ads below and e-mail: jgdtiger007@yahoo.com I have added this new section so you can show photos of what you are selling. I have a bunch of Mig Productions items for sale, all are brand new, never opened. I am giving a good discount on these, and if they don‟t sell locally I will put them on greEd Bay. The prices do not include shipping. *** Posting Ads are free for High Plains Modelers Members to post items for sale or trade. If you are not a member of the club it cost $2 to post an ad which goes towards our annual club contest.

Trumpeter 1/32 Wildcat F4F-3. These retail for around $75 this one is still sealed in the shrink wrap. I am asking $45 for it. (Shipping is extra for those outside of Northern Colorado.)
I also have the following Mig Pigments for sale:

     

Lunar Dust (5) Neptune Blue (2) Zombie Green (2) Rocket Exhaust (1) Metallic Silver (1) Graveyard (1) Price on these is $5.00 each.

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About IPMS/USA
IPMS/USA is the United States Branch of the International Plastic Modelers' Society, whose roots can be traced to the startup of the first IPMS National Branch during the 1960's in Great Britain. In 1964 a US-based modeler applied for a charter to start the US Branch. In the ensuing 4 decades, IPMS/USA has become a 5,000 member, all-volunteer organization dedicated to promoting the modeling hobby while providing a venue for modelers to share their skills in a social setting, along with friendly but spirited competition in the form of local, regional, and national contests and conventions. As this is written, there are over 220 active US chapters (including groups in Canada and the Philippines as well as one "cyber-chapter" existing entirely on the internet). These chapters are organized into 13 geographically-determined Regions, overseen by Regional Coordinators. The IPMS/USA Executive Board, made up of elected and appointed members, serves as the overall governing body for IPMS/ USA. IPMS/USA produces the Modelers' Journal, an allcolor magazine supplied to our members 6 times each year. Sample copies of the Journal are available upon request, and you'll find several cover shots elsewhere in this handout. In addition, IPMS/USA maintains one of the largest and most-visited public websites in the modeling community (www.ipmsusa.org). Members and visitors can view product reviews, chapter and contest information, see examples of members' work, and view images of contest, museum walkarounds, and the like. A members-only Forum allows discussion of specific topics of interest amongst our membership. The remainder of the website is open to the modeling public and sees thousands of hits weekly. From: www.ipmsusa.org

Volume 1, Issue 9

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High Plains Gazette

High Plains Modelers
Meetings are the last Tuesday of the month at The Ranch in Loveland. They start at 7pm and end around 9pm. Editor: Jeffrey Brown jgdtiger007@yahoo.com President: Pablo Bauleo Vice President: Gary Moore Treasurer: Randy Robinson Secretary: Jeff Brown

Our club has plastic modelers from Northern Colorado, mainly from the Fort Collins, Loveland, Longmont area. We also have a few members from Wyoming. Honestly, if you need an excuse to get away from the wife an kids a few days a month, join our club. Your skills will improve and you will have a few laughs. Stop by a meeting, the first one is free kid!

Website http://ipmshpm.blogspot.com/

Next Meeting August 30, 2011. 7pm at The Ranch.

Contest Sponsors: Please Support Them (They Support Us)

Kahuna Designs Inc.

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IDEAL SCALE MODELS

Hersh Consulting is sponsoring Best Armor!

Chuck Holte is sponsoring Best UAV!

Sidles Co. is sponsoring Best Automotive

Wyoming Mighty Mopar Club is sponsoring Best Mopar Subject

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