DESIGNED BY Tricia Waddell [ Photo on page 72 of Stitch
magazine Spring 2010]
— yd (91.5 cm) of 44" (112 cm)-wide 1 douppioni silk
— atching high-quality polyester or silk M thread — abric pencil or tailor’s chalk F — ine, sharp sewing machine needle appropriF ate for silk (consult your manual) — andsewing needle H
FinishedSize:About 66” (168 cm) long x 17”
(43 cm) wide (at center).
— subtly contrasting color of thread can be A used instead of a matching thread to accentuate the shirring on the ends of the scarf.
1 Cut two pieces of douppioni silk, each 36” (91.5 cm) long x 18” (45.5 cm) wide. 2 Attach the two fabric pieces along the short end with a slight variation on a traditional lapped seam, according to the following instructions. Fold over the short edge of one piece ¾" (2 cm) toward the wrong side; fold over the short edge of the second piece ¾" (2 cm) toward the right side. Overlap the folded
edges as shown in figure 1, so that the right sides of both pieces are facing up (the raw edges will be hidden); pin the pieces together. On each side of the scarf, edgestitch along the clean folded edge to attach the pieces together (figure 2). Press flat. 3 Now that you have the finished scarf length, it's time to finish the outside border of the scarf. Fold over (toward the wrong side) ¼" (6 mm) on one long side and press, then fold over another ¼" (6 mm) and press. Edgestitch the hem. Repeat the entire step on the remaining long edge and on both short ends of the scarf. Press all hems.
4 Using a fabric pencil or tailor’s chalk and a straightedge, mark a line across the width of the scarf, 12” (30.5 cm) from one short end. Starting at that line, measure and mark a parallel line every 1” (2.5 cm) toward the short end until you have 2” (5 cm) left at that end of the scarf. Along the line farthest from the end, mark off every 4” (10 cm), and then mark vertical stitch lines to the end of the scarf at each of these marks. You will have marked a checkerboard of 10 horizontal lines and 3 vertical lines (figure 3). Repeat the entire step at the other short end of the scarf. 5 Using basting stitches (3.0 to 4.0 mm), stitch along each marked horizontal stitch line, leaving long thread tails on each end; do not backtack and be careful to avoid stitching over the thread tails! Repeat to stitch the 3 vertical stitch lines. 6 To create the horizontal shirring, grasp the bobbin thread only on the first line of stitching and gently slide the fabric along the thread, toward the center, to gather loosely. Repeat to gather from the opposite end of the same
stitch line. When you are happy with the gathers, use a handsewing needle to bring the top threads through to the back and knot securely (use a double knot), then trim the ends. Repeat the entire step for all 10 horizontal stitching lines on each scarf end. Note: If the thread breaks, remove the stitches and rebaste along the marked line. 7 Now gently gather the 3 vertical lines of stitching on each end, as before, to create interesting sculptural fabric. Adjust the vertical and horizontal shirring, if necessary, until you are pleased with the look. To finish off the thread tails from the vertical stitching, knot and trim the threads along the bottom edge of the scarf. For the thread tails at the top end of
the vertical stitching, use a handsewing needle to bring the top thread through to the back, and then securely knot and trim the threads as before. Optional: For added security, set your machine back to the default length for a straight stitch and stitch directly over each previous stitch line. This will set the shirring in place so that the gathers will not shift. TrIcIa WaDDEll is the editor of Stitch
and editorial director of the knitting and crochet magazines for Interweave. If she’s not working, she’s definitely sewing.
1” (2.5 cm)
12” (30.5 cm)
2” (5 cm) 4” (10 cm)
figure 3 figure 2
1” (2.5 cm)