Handloom textiles of Kerala

The centuries all history of handloom in Kerala started from Thorth to High-end furnishings. Major items manufactured here are Thorth, Mundu, Set mundu for ladies, Sarees, Lungies, Shirtings, Terry towel, Bed sheets, Jacquard fabric, Cotton Crepe, Table linens, Bed linens, kitchen textiles, Curtains, Pillow covers, Upholstery fabric and other furnishing fabrics. Now North Malabar is the main centre for the manufacturing of hand woven textiles in Kerala and other places like Balramapuram has some production of dhotis and sarees. Manufactures of handloom fabrics in North Malabar started their export about 50 years back. Last year, govt. of India recognized Kannur as a City of Export Excellence for their contribution in the export of mainly Home textiles. Exports from Kannur have crossed Rs. 300 crores. Kerala has centuries old tradition in handloom and the epic centre is North Malabar.There was lot of evolution that took place in this cottage industry over two centuries. It is believed that Saliyas (now also called Padma Saliya) migrated in Malabar during the Dyansty of Kolathiri, Samoothiri and Perumal from Tamil nadu, Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka and even from Kutch provinces of Gujarat. These rulers had given all the privileges because of their weaving skill and they were provided housing in their community streets (theru) with Mandapam at the centre and bathing ghats for both male and female for their exclusive use. Even today this street culture is seen in all states. They had set up Kuzhithari (Pit loom) in every house, probably the cheapest cloth weaving machine in the world. They had developed technology of weaving by employing few wooden frames, pole, pedals, and strings. This was the throw shuttle pit looms (Kuzhithari). Poorani, a wooden frame used for warping about 15metres length of warp. Nallichakram (charka) used for warp and weft winding. About 3 inches long vellilathandu tharu used as weft carrier in the wooden of horn made throw shuttle. Rice starch was used for sizing the warp yarn. In those days a Saliya brides best qualification was the efficiency in preparatory work of weaving, winding, warping and sizing. Preparatory works was totally managed by women and weaving by men. Almost the same tradition with some exception is practised today also. A senses report of 1881 based on caste and trade recorded nearly a lakh in the clothing sector including tailors in Malabar and half of them were belonged to Saliya community.

Saliya also played an important role in the Communist movement of Malabar. Because of its closed society nature; comrades could hold secret meetings during its difficult period of pre-independence and post-independence time. Europeans could not implement their policy of forcing Indians to use important clothing from their countries and they succumbed to the pressure of non cooperative movement initiated by Mahatma Gandhi. Our handloom weavers played an important role for the success of non cooperative movement during freedom struggle. Simultaneously, by taking the advantages of castism in Hindus, European Missionaries started converting dissatisfied Hindus to Christianity by promising shelters, training and job and social status. Missionary had chosen handloom weaving as one of the job areas. As a part of their strategy during the middle of 19 century, the Bassel Missionary started several handloom factories in Malabar. Germans had developed frame loom with flying shuttle (maggam) and mill warping which made a revolutionary change in the field of handloom weaving. Along with Saliyas, other communities like Christians and Muslims also entered in this weaving job. At the beginning of twentieth century, Sri Narayana Guru initiated the social reforms in all over Kerala and Tiyyas were also motivated in taking up the handloom-weaving job. Throw shuttle pit loom slowly became outdated by the middle of twentieth century because of its limitations in weaving of heavy fabrics low production and non versatility. Frame loom with flying shuttle could weave intricate designs and check patterns with comparatively high production. Thanks to the Germans for developing frame shuttle loom which could mount jacquard, Terry motion, multi treadle and also strong enough to weave heavier fabrics like todays furnishings and table linens. Comtrust of Calicut (old Bassel missionary) is the best evidence of this evolution and revolution. At beginning of 20th century, many private entrepreneurs started handloom factories in North Malabar. Mr. Samuel Aron should be remembered as the icon of modern handloom weaving in North Malabar. His contribution to this industry was immense in developing infrastructure including supporting facilities like spinning of yarn. Along with him so many other entrepreneurs started their factories and the last quarter of 20th century witnessed a milestone in the history of Kannur textile - Kannur Cotton Crepe. Kannur Cotton Crepe was a pride for Kannur. During the same period, when the industry in the peak time, trade disputes between private management and trade unions affected the total industry. As a result, many factories started closing down. Due to the stiff competition from the neighbouring states and higher input cost in

Kannur, handloom products for the domestic market became costly and non-marketable. Further, clothing industry also had big chance during the second half of the 20th century. There were lot of innovations in the man made fibre, which changed the cotton clothing industry to blended clothing. Blended and man-made clothings are more durable and easy caring. So domestic market of hand woven clothing has started falling. During the middle of 20th century, many weavers co-operative societies have been formed in North Malabar areas. By seeing the success of these societies, other parts of Kerala also had seen the similar development. But the societies of North Malabar could only sustain the growth due to more favourable reasons.In the recent years, some societies are doing their own exports and many are suppliers for the leading exporters of Kannur and parts of India. Many societies have their own outlets to sell their products in their products in the local market. Export of Kannur textiles has a history of about 50 years. During 60s our export was started in shirting and bed sheets. During 70s, items like plain coloured lungies was exported to Bangladesh, Burma and Ceylon. Kannur crepe also had a good export market to Europe and US in 70s and 80s. After the fall of crepe market, exporters started lot of product development for the export market. As a result they developed upholsteries and other furnishing fabrics, and the same was highly accepted by the high-end market of developed countries. Gradually during 90s along with furnishing fabrics, they have also developed various kinds of made-ups and other home textiles. The current export turnover has crossed about Rs.300crore and targeting a turnover of Rs.600crore by 2010. There are also few agencies set up under Kerala Govt. to help the weavers. Hanveev is doing production support, Hantex is in marketing and Kerala Handloom Finance Corporation is for financing. Under Govt. of India, we have the branches of National Handloom Development Corporation for procuring raw materials, Weavers Service Centre for development and technical support. Textiles Committee has taken an important role for the promotion of handlooms in the International market as a regulatory agency and also by helping in implementing Quality Control systems. They have also set up testing facilities for testing yarn, fabric and other materials required for manufacturing textiles.