Intro: What we Are Making



Step 1: Gathering the Parts and Tools 3 Step 2: Assembling the SR-06 Circuit 8 Step 3: Main Board: diaodes, resistors and Sockets 10

Step 4: Main Board: Everything but the kitchen sink 11 Step 5: The Display and Keyboard:everything but the kitchen sink Step 6: Test it twice make it nice, And the Kitchen Sink Step 7: Making the Output decoder Circuit 19 21 15 14

Step 8: Making the Output decoder Circuit: Sockets and Jumpers Step 9: Making the Output decoder Circuit: Wires 24

Step 10: Making the Output decoder Circuit: Diodes,Transistors, and a Soleinoid Step 12: Deciding on a phrase and programming the machine 30 Step 13: Finding a place to hide the darn thing. Step 14: Building the box: How it will work Step 15: Building the Box: Tube 3 33 32 31


Step 16: Building the Box: Tube 2 : The Latch 35 Step 17: Building the Box: Tube 2 : The Bracket Step 18: Building the Box: Tube 2: Finishing up 37 39 41

Step 19: Building the Box:Tube 1: Connecting to Tube 2 Step 20: Building the Box:Tube 1: Finishing Up 42

Step 21: Putting it in its Final resting place: Hiding IT. and mark IT Upload it 43 If you build it they will come 44


Intro: What we Are Making?
You Must Be asking yourself "What is a Geo Cache?" In Short Geo Caching is a tresure hunting Game you play with a G.P.S and people from all over the world. A Geo Chache is what you hide so others can find it.. In an effort to not be long winded I will let you see for yourself with a few links. Getting Started with Geo-Caching: Types of Geo-Caches: Our Instructable Shows you how to Build a Geo Cache you can find but can't open without saying the secret PASSWORD ( ours will be a line out of a Star Treck Episode) You say the Secret Password and VIOLA: it opens and you can sign the Log and trade swag ( little trinkets). Close the cache and its ready for the next Geo Hunter. We will show you how to build the cache box, and modify a voice activation board kit to control the latch that Opens the box This project could also be used to build a Puzzle box that would be lots of fun at parties and weddings.


Step 1: Gathering the Parts and Tools
Parts: Our Project uses the Sr-06 Speech Recognition Circuit Kit Images Scientific Instruments sells it for 114.95 These next parts are for making the out put decoder circuit From Radio Shack: Universal Component PC Board with 780 Holes Model: 276-168 | Catalog #: 276-168 (2.99) (1.59) .TIP120 NPN-D Transistor Model: TIP120 | Catalog #: 276-2068 (1.59) 22 gauge Solid core hookup wire (we used 3 diffrent colors to color code but if you just have one thats fine) From Digi Key: ** 2- CONN HEADER VERT 10POS .100 15AU PART#A26557-ND (3.24) CABLE 20 COND 5FT MULTI-COLOR PART#MC20M-5-ND (6.06) 2- ribbon cable connectors:CONN IDC SKT 20POS W/POL GOLD PART#AKC20B-ND(1.40) 2-CONN KEYING PLUG BLACK PART#ASKP01-ND (.12) You can also just use your soldering iron for this step but some people worry about messing up their tips. I personaly have a cheap one so not too concerned. 20 pin socket: IC SOCKET 20POS.300” DIP GOLD PART#ED332O (1.88) 18 pin socket:IC SOCKET 18POS .300” DIP GOLD PART#ED3318 (1.69) 2-14 pin sockets: IC SOCKET 14POS .300” DIP GOLD PART#ED3314-ND (1.31) IC DECODER CMOS BCD-DEC 16-DIP PART # 296-2045-5-ND (.55) IC OCT D-TYPE LATCH 20-DIP PART#296-1660-5-ND (.88) IC 2-IN OR GATE QUAD 14-DIP PART#296-2062-5-ND (.51) IC QUAD 2-IN NAND GATE 14-DIP PART#296-2031-5-ND (.51) SOLENOID TUBULR 1/2” CONT 12VDC PART#527-1024-ND (27.00) DIODE STD REC 1A 50V DO-41 PART#1N4001GOS-ND (.34) MICROPHONE ** we actually got most of our parts from our local electronics store Tanners but to make it easier on you all we found part #’s from Digi key. However you will probably find it cheaper if you go to a store like we did. If you live in the Dallas Metroplex Definatly check out Tanners they have lots of awesome stuff. For the Box: From Lowes: 1- 4” X 21” PVC Pipe 1- 4” X 19” PVC Pipe 1- 3” X 12” PVC Pipe ( you will need to cut your pipe this size as it would be a miricale if you found the right size at the store. We actually bought 2 foot peices so we wouldnt have to try and fit long pipe in our focus) 1- 4” Pressure test plug 2- 3” Pressure test plugs 2- 4” Knock out plugs 1- 4” PVC Couple 2- 2” 3/8-16 Stainless steel Carrage Bolts 2-3/8-Hex nuts 1- 4’ 3/8-16 Stainless steel Carrage Bolt 2-3/8-16 X 7/16 Tee Nuts-Brad Hole Stainless 1 decrotive water knob 8 3/4 inch self stick felt pads 1” x 3’ 20guage steel strip 2-3.5” peices of all thread 9- 1” 10x24 machine screws 19-10x24 nuts 1-Cotter pin 1- rubber lined clamp 1-4”x 12” peics of plexi glass Silicone quick set bath tub caulk PVC glue Lock tight Optional: spray paint


TOOLS: For the Electronics: Soldering Iron Philps Screwdriver Wire cutters Wire strippers Pliars Solder For the box Saw Drill Meausring tool Screw driver Sharpie wrenches Skills: How to solder: How to read a schematic: Must be good at hiding stuff:


Speech Recognition Kit Parts list:
Quantity 1 Item IC1 - HM2007 Designator U1/HM2007


IC2 - SRAM 8K X 8


1 2 16 1

IC3 - 74LS373 IC4 & IC5 - 4511 220 Ohm 1/8 watt resistors XTAL 3.75 MHz

U3 / 74LS373 U4 / 7448/4511 & U5 / 7448/4511 U6/220 ohm & U7/220 ohm XTA


Main circuit PCB


Keypad PCB

1 12

Display PCB Momentary contact switches


PC Mounted Switch



7-Segment Displays

7 SEG /U8 & U9


Quantity 1

Item Headset Microphone



9V Battery Snap


Coin Battery holder BAT 2032 (I have highlighted the plus and minus to make you aware that this piece is polarized) 100k 1/4 Watt Resistor 330 Ohm 1/4 Watt Resistor 6.8 K 1/4 Watt Resistor 22K 1/4 Watt Resistor .1 uF Capacitor R3 R4 R1 R2 C2

1 1 1 1 1


.0047 uF Capacitor


1 2 1

100 uF Capacitor (47uFcapsee text) .22 pF Capacitor 7805 Voltage Regulator C1 and C5 Q1 7805


Quantity 1

Item 9V Battery Holder



2/56 hex nuts,screws and Lock washers



03 LED


1N914 diodes



IC sockets 14 pin & 16 pin

14 = U8 AND U9


IC sockets 20 pin,28 pin, 48 pin

20=U3 / 74LS373 28+U2 / SRAM 48= U1 / HM2700


7-pin & 10 pin headers Male


7-pin & 10 pin headers Female


Quantity 1

Item PC mount microphone jack

Designator MIC

1 1 1

2-position header Jumper 3V Coin Battery


Step 2: Assembling the SR-06 Circuit
The Kit comes with instructions. However they were a bit hard to follow and we have re-drawn the schematic, added pictures of the parts and steps as well as a few tips to help you along the way. However if you want to manage with the original instructions just assemble the kit and move on to step seven. 1. As with every Kit you want take out all the parts and make sure everything is there and Not bent or obviously not working. Below is a picture chart of all the parts, on the right hand side note the Designator this will help you when placing the parts on the boards. Also in the pictures section is the new schematic.



Step 3: Main Board: diaodes, resistors and Sockets
Main Circuit PCB The idea is to start with the smaller and less fragil elements and then keep adding on until everything is in its rightfull place. You will need to look at the schematic to determine where everything goes but the following steps are in suggested order and include techniques that should prove helpful. These first three can all be put on the board being held by just bending back the wires and then be Solderd together at the same time. 1. Start with the 1N914 Diaodes These will go on D1 and D2. A. It is important to note that Diaodes are polarized but no worries all you have to do is match up the black lines and go about your day.

B. It is also relevent that the Diodes are made from glass and can break easy so a simple trick for bending the wires without cause to worry is by using a pair ofpliers as a guide.

2. Next add in the resistors using the part charts and the schematic. A. Note that these parts are not polerized so it dosen’t really matter which direction they face. However it will make it easier on yourself if you come up with some logic and do them all the same. We oriented ours where the gold line was allways on the right side. 3. Next you will add on the sockets using the part charts and the schematic. A. These parts do have a right and wrong way to position them but if you look at the board and the part you will see that there is a notch that matches up .

B. Before putting it on the board make sure every thing looks straight and start with one side at a time instead of trying to insert both sides at once. C. To secure these to the board before you solder them just fold over the corners


Step 4: Main Board: Everything but the kitchen sink
So now that you've soldered all of that lets move on. In this step we will finish up all of the components on the main board exept for the battery and the chips. You can do these next ones in any order they are just listed in the order that I paid attention to them. ( mostly because thats how i grabed them out of the bag.) 4. Micorophone jack: This one is simple. It is polarized, However you want the jack to face off of the board and doing so will line all of your pluses and minuses up perfectly. Just push it into the three holes in the Mic silkscreen bend back the edges and move on.

5. 7805 Voltage Regulator: Now this is Polarized and the you want the side with writting to be facing off the board. You will have to gently pull the middle lead foward so that it will fit in the 3 hole set up under Q1 7805. You dont want this one flush on the board the leads should float it of the board just a little.

6. LED: this is another polarized one but here's the trick there is a flat place on the LED that matches the one on the drawing. The LED is another peice that dosent sit on the board just give it a little space before you bend the leads back. 7. Capacitors C1, C2, C4, C5: These also like a lillte breathing room so float them. Just match them up to their homes and bend back the leads with a little room. 8. Capacitor C3: This capacitor is polarized. If you look on the side there is a grey strip with a neg mark, and the longest lead allways means positive so make sure you match it up correctly. It is fine if this one sits flush to the board Go ahead and take a moment to cut of the ends and solder down what you have here These next pieces are easier if you do them one at a time soldering after each peice


9. The two Position header goes in WD with the long end pointing UP: You will notice that the Jumper goes on top of this 2 pin header. The function of this is to switch between 20 words and 40 words. In our case we wanted to use all 40 words at the shorter length so we left it off in the end. In the pictures we have one side of it sitting on the header this is a good way to store it so it wont get lost if your not sure if you want to use it yet. 10. The mounted switch goes where it says on /off ours was spaced a little to far but the leads flexed enough for us to get it in. 11. The coin battery holder has a plus and minus etched on the top make sure you match those with the drawing and solder it in. 12. Now take your screws nuts and washers and attatch the 9v battery holder ( hint: it goes in the second set of holes behind the on/off switch. 13. The male 7 and 10 pin headers can be put on now too. We went ahead and attached them to the females and tacked the first and last pins so we could get the spacing right. then we took off the females and soldered them all the way down.

14. The Xtal chrystal goes on XTA and needs to be floated it is important not to linger on this one with the soldering iron as you dont want it to get hot. 15. Now for the battery snap We didnt want to cut ours, because we needed the length later, so we just wraped it around a screwdriver to make a snap spring. Then we sodered the red to the positive and the Black to the Negative. (as a side note we had problems with our kit provided snap and it broke the first day in the field I would suggest buying a seperate one that has the hard plastic cap as they seem to hold up better) Hip Hip Hooray are done with the majority of the main board later we will add in the bateries and chips


Hip Hip Hooray are done with the majority of the main board later we will add in the bateries and chips

Your board should look like this at this point.


Step 5: The Display and Keyboard:everything but the kitchen sink
1.Display: A. This has sockets and Resisters and we have been through those before just look at the schematics or the designator Numbers and the PCB screenprint. B. As for the female plug it soders on just like the male it just looks diffrent on the other end. I would suggest pluging into the male and tacking the corners just to be sure it all matches up. C. Add a jumper ( just bend a peice of wire, we use the cliped off ends of our resistors) This Jumper goes from the center hole to the C. 2. Keyboard: A. Mostly this is all switches they are not polarized but like the resistors you might want to orient them all the same way I put the black line facing down because they look like little faces that way. ( haven’t you dreamed of smashing someones face with your thumbs?) Might I suggest doing these one at a time and not trying to bend back the leads I bent mine back so that they would stay and then soldered them all at once but the bending caused them to come out crooked. B. The female is the same as before


Step 6: Test it twice make it nice, And the Kitchen Sink
Nothing is worse that putting together the electronic portion of a project together and having it give you problems. This is particularly true if electronics is not your best area. Don’t worry with a little patience and testing as you go this part of project will go smoothly. NOTE: CONSULT THE SCHEMATIC WHEN WORKING THROUGH THESE STEPS TO FAMILURISE YOUSELF WITH THE SCHEMATIC NOMENCLATURE USED. BECAUSE THIS LEVEL OF DETAIL WILL NOT BE INCLUDED FOR THE OUTPUT DETECTOR BOARD AND YOU WILL NEED TO BE ABLE TO UNDERSTAND THE SCHEMATIC TO PREFORM THE PROCEDURE. At this point you should have the Main circuit board and the display board fully assembled and plugged together, However the chips should not be installed in the sockets, the 9 volt battery should not be connected, and the coin battery should not be installed. (The other components are reasonable robust and should survive any assembly errors you make have made, however the chips are not so robust this is why we do not put them in until we have done a few checks) This test and start up procedure is for both main Circuit board and the display board. It is assumed Test and startup procedure 1. Clean the back of the boards (solder side) after you finish soldering. (Rubbing alcohol and a tooth brush is what I use; it is not uncommon for this to leave a visible residue this will not hurt anything.) 2. The top of the boards (component side )can be rinsed off with rubbing alcohol if it look like it needs it 3. Visually inspect soldering from both sides of the boards. (Soldering is the number one problem on circuit boards) Use a bright light and a magnifying glass or loop if you have one. Look for bridged pins (two or more pins joined by solder), skipped pin, and pins that did not get hot enough for the solder to flow smoothly. (these are easy to see from the top because the solder will not be visible in the hold from the top) 4. Double check the all of the polarized parts. The 7805 voltage regulator Q1, the 100 uF capacitor C3 and the 9 volt battery connector are particularly important. 5. Place the on/off switch in the off position. (slid away from the edge of the board) 6. Use a volt / ohm meter set to read ohms. 7. Check the meter by touching the red and black probes the meter should read less that 4 ohms. 8. Chips will tolerate many problems however they will die without a connection to the battery ground. Confirm that you have less that 4 ohms or resistance between the metal tab with the hole in it on the 7805 voltage regulator (ground), and all of the ground pins for all of the chips. These are pins 1, 12, and 26 on U1, Pin 14 on U2. Pin 10 on U3. Pin 3 on the 10 pin header. Pins 6,2,1,7 and 8 on U4.Pins 6,2,1,7 and 8 on U5. Pins 12 and 14 on U8. Pins 12 and 14 on U9. 9. Use a volt / ohm meter set to read DC volts. (10 volt range) 10. Use the 9 volt battery to test the meter settings. (A new 9 volt battery will usually read 9.5 – 9.8 volts) 11. Put the ground probe (black) on the any of the ground pins andthe positive probe (red) on U1-pin 47 (one of the 5 volt supply pins for U1) and install the 9 volt battery. Because you have the switch off there should not be any voltage on 15

the pin when the battery is installed. If the voltage is 5 volts you do not have switch off. If the voltage is more than 5 volts or a negative voltage disconnect the battery quickly and correct the problem. 12. Continue checking as in the previous step and turn on the switch. As before turn off the switch quickly if something other than 5 volts is read, and correct the problem. 13. Check the other 5 volt supply for all the chips. These are pins 25, 47, and 15 on U1, Pin 28 on U2. Pin 20 on U3. Pin 2 on the 10 pin header. Pin 16 on U4. Pin 16 on U5. 14. Confirm that you do not have 5 volts on the positive terminal of the coin battery connector. (the 5 volts should be blocked by diode D1 ) 15. Turn off the switch and push the 3 volt coin battery far enough into its holder to make connection (if you push it all the way in it is difficult to remove) 16. Confirm that you have approximately three volts on pin 28 of U2 17. Confirm that you do not have 3 volts from the coin battery on the any of the 5 volt pin. (the 3 volts should be blocked by diode D2 ) 18. Remove the coin battery 19. Turn of the switch. If you still confused, don’t take a chance remove the 9 volt battery 20. Congratulations it should be safe to put the chips in the sockets now. Be carful to put the chips in facing the correct direction. (The U shaped notch should match up with the notch printed on the board.) Be very carful when installing the chips they have very sharp pins it is easy to poke 10 or more holes in your fingers if you slip while trying to install a chip. (I have included some picture with a few installation tips) 21. Now it is time test the board with the chips in installed. 22. Put the 9 volt battery back in and turn on the switch while monitoring the 5 volts on one of the chip pins. If the voltage is less that 5 volts disconnect the battery quickly, you have probably inserted on of the chips backwards. (Bad very bad) if you were quick and lucky you may be alright. Correct the problem. 23. The LED should turn on when the 9 volt battery in connected and the switch is turned on. 24. The Display should read 00 when the 9 volt battery in connected and the switch is turned on.



Your Project should now look like this:


Step 7: Making the Output decoder Circuit

The Output Decoder Circuit is what runs the soleniod. It looks at the numbers that are going on the display board and turns on the output transistor if the number is 1-9 11-19-or 21-29 31-39 the transistor in turn activates the Solenoid. Here is our schematic and some part lists.


Quanity 1


Universal Component PC Board with 780 Holes Model: 276-168 | Catalog #: 276-168 (\ TIP120 NPN-D Transistor Model: TIP120 | Catalog #: 276-2068 ten pin header ribbon cable cable connectors 20 pin socket 18 pin socket 14 pin sockets IC DECODER CMOS BCD-DEC 16-DIP PART # 2962045-5-ND IC OCT D-TYPE LATCH 20-DIP PART#296-1660-5-ND IC 2-IN OR GATE QUAD 14-DIP PART#296-2062-5-ND IC QUAD 2-IN NAND GATE 14-DIP PART#296-2031-5ND SOLENOID TUBULR 1/2” CONT 12VDC PART#5271024-ND DIODE STD REC 1A 50V DO-41 PART#1N4001GOSND 22 guage solid state wire.









1 1 1




Step 8: Making the Output decoder Circuit: Sockets and Jumpers
We Have made a handwiring drawing and broken it up into the various steps so if you do better with pictures just look at them and skip the text. But just in case you need a little clarification i have written down discriptions of each step. The numbers on the drawings corespond with the written steps 1 Use red and blue sharpie to mark the Positve and Negative traces so you dont get confused.

This is a drawing of the board itself look carefully because it isn't lettered or numbered right. The a-b and b-c have 4 rows between them while D-E and E-f have only 3 rows between them The mumbers are simularly wrong the 5 is on 6 and so on so pay close attention while soldering up your board.


2.Place the 14 (U3 & U4) 16( (U2) and 20 (U1) sockets on the board. You will want them to straddle the blue and red traces so that you can easily connect to them.

3. Put on the 10 pin header 4. Use wire to make jumpers from the 5vlt to the upper right pin on all four sockets and from the last pin on the lower left side to ground on all four sockets 5. Jumper Header Pin 1 to Ground 6 .From Header pin 2 jumper to one past ground then from one past jumper to 5vlts 7. Jumper U1 pin 11 to 5vlts 8. Jumper U3 pin 8 to U3 Pin 9 22

9. Jumper U3 pin 9 to U3 Pin 11 10 Jumper from the very last hole in the C grond line to one to the right the out put transistor will connect to here later.


Step 9: Making the Output decoder Circuit: Wires
Now we will work on wiring up the board we have color coded our wires with black for socket to socket and Green for header from socket to make it easier to see. (The socket 2 socket that is red is that way because we forgot we were color coding so just Pretend its black) Start with these socket to sockets because it will make your wiring easier and neater. 1. U1-pin1 to U3-pin-10 2. U1-pin-2 to U2-pin-10 3. U1-pin-5 to U2-pin-13 4. U1-pin-6 to U2-pin-12 5. U1-pin-9 to U2-pin-11 6. U3-pin-10 to U4-pin-11


7. Now wire up the header HD-pin-3 to hole D2-28 HD-pin-4 to U3-pin-13 HD-pin-5 to U4-pin-12 HD-pin-6 . to U4-pin-13 HD-pin-7 to U1-pin-8 . HD-pin-8 to U1-pin-7 HD-pin-9 to U1-pin-4 HD-pin-10 to U1-pin-3



Step 10: Making the Output decoder Circuit: Diodes,Transistors, and a Soleinoid
Now We just have to hook up Some parts we will start with the Diaodes 1. On U2 you will hook up diaodes on Pins 1,2,4,5,6,7,9, 14 and 15 However rather than laying them flat you will stand them up on end and solder them all together ( kinda like a diaode sculpture) ( the picure sectio has some tips if your having problems with this) 2. Take the end of the Dioade sculpture and solder it into hole C2-14 3. Now we will route our diaodes down to where our transitor will be (this is our 2nd red wire) it goes from Hole C3-14 to Hole C-27 Now lets place in the Transistor and hook up the Solenoid 4. Place the transisort in between C and D on Rows 27,28,and 29 5. Place a small wire from the center Pin( hole C2-28) to hole B4-28 6. One wire of the solenoid goes to the center pin of the trasistor ( the little wire you put in with step 5) this will be Hole B3-28 7.The other wire will hook up to Hd pin 3 (thats the long green wire you put in earlier) Thats Hole D3-28.


Step 11: Making the Output decoder Circuit: Hooking up and TestingConnecting to the SR-06
1. solder the 10 pin onto the sr-06 board behind the display 10 pin

2. attach connectors to both ends of 5 inches of ribbon cable


3. Close of the 2nd row of sockets on the connectors

4. Attach the ribbon cable to the 10 pin on the sr-06 and the 10pin on the Output decoder circuit.

Look your finished. well almost Now Bring up the The output decoder board This procedure is conceptually identical to starting up the main board and display. The board should be tested for correct ground and 5 volt connections on the pins. This board is similar to the output described in the instruction manual of the main board kit. This circuit will turn on and solenoid by grounding the return wire from the solenoid coil, The other side of the solenoid coil is attached to 9 volts


Step 12: Deciding on a phrase and programming the machine
The SR-06 is technically user dependent which means that realy it should only work with the voice that trained it. However on page 12 you can see where it talks about tricking the system into being closer to user independent Basicaly you just train the word multible times onto diffrent slots. There is more detail about what to do if your using more than one word but that dosent quite apply to our project. Now your Gonna Program your machine with 37 diffrent variations of the same Word. But what word? 1. It needs to be no longer than .96 seconds 2. have sounds that are distinc like s’s and T’s is helpful 3. Don’t pick a word that is hard to pronounce in general 4. It also seemed to have a problem with words that were really short like kirk or it There is alot more on word choice in the instructions starting on page 12 but this is the basics Be cause our output circuit dosent opperate on numbers with 0 in them we have 37 slots to train now you can go out and have 37 diffrent people say the word and use that to program the machine. But we used a smaller sample group and just changed the pitches digitally. We are gonna test this in the field for a bit and see how every one dose with it. We might try more natural versions if the Geo adventures are haveing a hard time with it. Now program all 37 versions into the device using the instructions in the Manual on page 11. Although it should work with a variety of people there is no way to know that it will work for everyone so consider putting in a back door. We took a cheap photo frame recorder and recorded the correct phrase into it. Then we used the playback to program one program slot on the machine. To ensure that no one could accidentlyhit the record button we glued a plastic cap over it. Then we placed a set drawing we found in the frame and placed it in a plastic container that we hid a few inches away from the cache.

** So far in the logs we have only heard of one person using the backdoor but they told us they didn’t want to watch the Star trek episode to know the code so they just listened to it when they got there.


Step 13: Finding a place to hide the darn thing.
You might be thinking Were gonna hide it now we dont even have a box to open with our device. But you dont know what size you make your box either. If you continue down the instructions you will find that we talk about making a box that is a certain size because it fits where we decided to hide it. So if your thinking about just using our size box and finding a space that big enough for it well then You can come back to this step later but for all you adventurous friends who plan on constructing a cache to fit their needs Its time to get to hunting.

There are certain things you need to condsider: here are some of the ones we based our decision on. 1. The RULES. There is a good deal of Guidlines and you will want to read over them before you start but a major ones is cache saturation that states that you cant put a chache within .1 miles of another one. So be fore you go out looking for a place to hide download all of the chaches in that area so you can determine if your getting to close. 2. We put alot of time and money into the project so we need a spot that: A. has low traffic B. Is semi difficult or complicated to get to C. Cant easily be spotted unless you are specifically looking for something D. A place where the chace can be hard to remove or dismantle E. A place close to home so you can check in on it. F. Finaly you are deffinatly looking for public land or private land you have permission to use like your own. 3. When you go out bring a measuring tool, paper, pen, GPS, and a camera to document your finds then way the options carefully. Ask yourself what is the one reason that makes this a bad hiding spot and is that a good reason to find another. I am sure you are all brilliant and will have no problem finding a place to hide yours. As for us after intetially looking under lots of bridges we decided on trying to find a remote place in the middle of the woods like in a thicket under a dead tree or something. By some miricale we found a place where an old building used to be and there was rubble from the old foundation so hiding our little box amoung the concrete and brick was gonna be easy. Just remeber to allways keep your eyes open this is supposed to be a fun adventure dont turn it into a chore. Now that you have a hiding spot decide how big you need to make this thing. If our idea dosent fit your needs you might be on your own for a bit but no worries remember your brilliant.


Step 14: Building the box: How it will work
The idea here is that there are 3 tubes. One Tube holds the Electronics we built and has a place to put the battery and to speak in to the microphone. (We will Call this Tube 1) It is connected by wire to a matching tube (Tube 2) that holds the release mechanism and the solinoid. The smaller tube (Tube 3) slides into tube 2 and laches into the mechanism. One cap of the tube is seen by the viewer but locked permenatly While the other end that is lached to the Mechanism has a cap that will open and let the the Geo Player into the tube to get at the log and Swag. The Very first thing you need to do is measure mark and cut your PVC to be the right sizes the two 4’ tubes are 21’ and 19” The 3” tube is 12”


Step 15: Building the Box: Tube 3
Now we will start with Tube 3. This is the one that will be released by voice command. We will use:: 3” X 12 “ tube 2 -3”pressure test caps 1-2” stainless steal carriage Bolts 1-3/8-16 Hex nut 1- water Knob or other knob that will fit the bolt 1- 4” carriage Bolt 1- 3/8-16 X 7/16 Tee Nuts-Brad Hole Stainless Lock tight 8-3\4 inch self stick Felt pads 1. We wanted ours to be pretty so we took the time to take our test caps apart and sand of the lettering and paint the top peices We allso painted the tube silver. But this is completly about astetic and is optional. 2.For the Bottom end that attaches to the Mechanism a. On the Second Pressure cap replace the 2” bolt it has with the 4” one b. Locktight on the Tee nut so that there is 3 inches from the cap to the Top of the Tree Nut c.. Now you can put the cap on the Tube and screw the wing nut until its tight. ( this is how everyone will open it)


3.For the top end (this one wont open) a. Take off the Wing nut that comes with the Cap. We also replaced our carriage bolt wit a stainless one, but that is probably just personal preffrence. b. Lock tight on the hex nut. c. Place the cap in the tube and tighten down the nut until the cap is tight d. Tightly screw on your Knob You can Locktight here if you want to but we thought it was unecessary as you would need a miriad of tools to get this thing off now Now everyone has a handle to pull out the tube with

4. The final step is to add the spacers Evenly space out four felt pads on the top and Four on the bottom of your tube

Now you have an awesome tube box for your cache


Step 16: Building the Box: Tube 2 : The Latch
Now we will work on Tube 2 You will Use; 4”x19 PVC pipe 1- knock ou Nutst Plug 2- 3.5” peices of all thread 9 -1” 10X24 machine screws 19 10X24 nuts cotter pin We will begin with the Latch 1. Draw out the peices using the diagram. 2. Cut out the peices I think we kinda took the long way around on this one but we had limited toolswe cut 4 peices out of a 1” steel strip and then glued them together with epoxy. But when we started drilling the holes the Epoxy melted so we had to drill more holes and use screws and nuts to hold it together. Obviously the best option is to cut it out of a bigger peice of solid metal and cut in all in one peice or do the 4 peice setup and weld them together. But as least if your low on tools like us we know it works this way. 3. If you cut multiple pecies sandwich them together and make it stick (bolts or weld) 4. drill a 3/16ths hole where indicated on the diagram 5. Cut out a slit like on the diagram ( its not the hole your worried about its the little end peice infact if you want to cut the rest of that material off go for it. 6. next cut 2 3.5 inch lengths of the all thread so your ready to put it together once you have the bracket built



Step 17: Building the Box: Tube 2 : The Bracket
Now on to the bracket 1. Basicaly you will bend about 5 3/4 ( we rough mesured, and its not overly critical) of the steel strip into a curve to match that of the inside of the 4” tube. We began by bending ours over the 3” tube then matching it up to a tracing of the inside of the 4”tube” ( we also left our strip long to bend and work with it and cut of the extra later.) 2. Next you will straighten out 1.5 inches ( this is exact) on each side to be the legs 3. Drill a 3/16ths hole 1/2 inch from the end and centered and on each side 4. Drill a 3/16 hole 1/4 from end and 1/4 over on each side 5. Drill two holes spaced evenly away from center to mount it with. 6. Using a 3.5 peice of all thread and 6 nuts put on the latch in the upper hole ( the picture shows it best) 7. Using a 3.5 peics of all thread and 4 nuts put a “bumper” in the lower hole this wil make Tube 3 stop at the correct place



Step 18: Building the Box: Tube 2: Finishing up
Just a few more things for this one. 1. make a mounting bracket for the Soleinoid by bending one of the rubber lined clamps around it.

2. Using the drawing and an index card make a hole guide

3. Place the edge of the guide on the end of the tube and use something pointy to mark where the holes will be 4. drill the holes

5. Install the cotter pin in the plunger of the solenoid, spread the pins and cut them off short.


6. mount the solenoid first

7 Mount the bracket and latch (the notch in the latch engages the cotter pin on the solenoid plunger)

8. Test that it works by hooking the solenoid up to a 9 volt battery and your allready constructed tube 3.


Step 19: Building the Box:Tube 1: Connecting to Tube 2
For Tube 1 you will Use: 1-4” Knock out plug 1-4” Pressure Test cap 1-4” PVC pipe coupling 1-2” Stainless steel carrage bolt 1-3/18ths hex nut quick set Bathtub caulk 1.Drill a hole on both Tube 1 and tube 2 in the same place so you have a place for the Solenoid wires to come through. It dosent matter where exactly just so it Now youwant to Attach Tube 2 to Tube one We bolted ours but you might have other ideas depending on how you plan on hidng it and alldosent get in the way of themechanism and so that they link together 2. Now attach Tube 1 to Tube 2 so that your holes match up. We bolted ours together but you might have a diffrent way you want to do it depending on your specificneeds. 3. Extend the wires about 2 feet and pull them through the hole into Tube 1. 4 Tape them down so they dont get in the way 5. Use some Quick dry Bathtub calk to seal the holes up with the wires in them.

6. Caping tube 2: 1.Take the knock out plugs and drill 3 holes in it to drain out any water that might come in 2. Snap the cap in place but dont glue it down as you might need in there for repairs down the line


Step 20: Building the Box:Tube 1: Finishing Up
1. Seal the end of the tube by gluing your other end cap to the end of tube 2. If you want to be able to tether or lock down your device glue on your optional 4” coupling and drill two holes in it. This will let you tie it down later.

Microphone and Battery: 1 Replace the Wing nut with a hex nut on your 4” pressure test cap 2. Drill 2 holes all the way through the the 4” pressure test cap 3. Carefully disconect your battery snap from your board and push the wires through one of the holes 4. Hot glue in place the use Quick set bathtub silicone to make it watter tight make sure you have it pressed all around the wires. 5. The headset that comes with the Kit has had the connectors for the headphones cut off. The only functioning part is the Microphone it is connected to the red mic plugby a 2 wire micro cable. The microphone Element is in a plastic housing that is connected to an adjustable stem. The wires from the microphone go through the stem as individual yellow and orange wires they are soldered to 2 wires in the micro cable inside the earphone housing. You will need to open up the headset and retrieve thesetwo peices. 6. Take the Microphone Element and string it through your second hole and glue and silicone it in its place. Putting in the Electronics We put in a shelf so the electronics wouldnt just flop around. 1. Cut a 4” x 12” peice of plexi-Glass 2 Glue your electronic boards on to it. 3. Hook your microphone and Battery snap back up 4. Gently slide the plexi shelf into the tube 5. Place the Pressure Test cap on the Tube 6. Tighten up the hex Nut till the cap is on tightly. Now you should be able to plug a 9vlt batter into the snap speak the phrase into the microphone and activate the mechanism.


Step 21: Putting it in its Final resting place: Hiding IT. and mark IT Upload it
I wont Go into Much Detail here because i dont want to spoil the suprize for everyone But to have the project completly finished there are a few more things to do. 1. once its ready take it to the awesome hiding place you found, 2. Fil it with swag 3.Then you will need to use your GPS to get the Coorodinates 4.Finaly Go to and fill out the form. It will then be put into review and once its up they should send you an E-mail They approved ours by the end of the first buisness day. So we didnt have to wait long. You can see its posting and read the logs here.


If you build it they will come
I just wanted to take a moment to tell you how rewarding the Cache has been. Our First to find came out at 9:30 the night it was published only after being up for an hour or so. With the Second only a few short minutes behind him. While we did have some problems with the battery snap an it had to be replaced with a sturdier one. Even the few people that didnt get into it the first time they triedcame back. Below is some of my favorite logs and pictures that viewers have placed. *************************************************************************************************************** ******* January 7 by techiegrl64 (11332 found) Log Entry #11305, Stardate -311982.7820585997. After Mr. Sulu and Mr. Chekhov deftly maneuvered me into a stable orbit around the Comerica belt I beamed down to the planet alone in the darkness of pre-dawn. With phaser set on stun and tricorder set on the location of the obelisk. I slipped into the forest before switching on my head lamp, then found my way to the portal. I could hear the creatures stirring in the woods as I uttered the code to open the obelisk. After taking inventory and then resecuring the obelisk against intruders I contacted the Enterprise to beam me back: “Techie to Enterprise. One to beam up!” With mission accomplished successfully we left orbit and engaged warp drive to continue our mission to explore new worlds, to seek out new life and new civilizations.... Thanks for an *awesome* cache! Techie out. January 6 by johnwip (675 found) Captain’s Log: Stardate 2011.16. On routine patrol in the Garland Sector, we received orders to investigate a cache on the planet, Springcreek VI. After establishing parking orbit in the Comerica belt, First Officer Daniel and I beamed down to the surface. Tricorder readings took us to the location of the cache where we proceeded to access the interior through a specific coded phrase. We took inventory of the contents and signed our names on the logbook. Starfleet can be reassured that the cache was working properly. We tested opening and closing it three or four times and all attempts met with success. Our task accomplished, the away team beamed back to the ship and warped out of orbit. We continue our mission to seek out new puzzles and multi caches. (Boldy splitting infinitives in the process!) TFTC! IDIC!


January 6 by flightplan (338 found) Found 11:00 Docked the geo-starship at the outpost nearby. I shuttled my way to the boundary area and crossed into the neutral zone. I was talking to johnwip on my communicator when I arrived at gz. Great location for this themed cache! I was having some trouble seeing the cache due to it’s cloaking device - but it was revealed to me... I went through the mechanics of the cache and was ready to reenact the scene from ST season three #58. Since John was on the phone - um, communicator - I held it up to the microphone and had him utter the magic phrase. VOILA -I heard a “Whir-Click” and was soon signing the captain’s log. Great cache, concept, and location fun to do all the way around.

Congrats to our first to find Briar Boy January 3 by R A A (5110 found)

*************************************************************************************************************** We are having so much fun seeing what all of the cahers think of the project. I do encorage you if you are intrested in Geocaching to start one of your own. Maybe evena voice activated one, because it has been overwhelmingly rewarding. 45

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