Professional Documents
Culture Documents
of
South Africa
“Travelling - It leaves you
speechless, then turns you in to a
storyteller.” - Ibn Battuta
Nancy McQuade
91 Beechtree Crescent
Winnipeg, MB
Canada R2M 5K9
nancymcquade@me.com
Table of Contents
Prologue ......................................................................3
Chapter 1 .....................................................................4
Chapter 2 .....................................................................7
Chapter 3...................................................................10
Chapter 4...................................................................17
Chapter 5...................................................................26
Chapter 6...................................................................34
Chapter 7...................................................................40
Chapter 8...................................................................46
Chapter 9...................................................................54
Chapter 10 ................................................................64
Chapter 11 ................................................................70
Chapter 12 ................................................................86
Chapter 13 ................................................................88
SUMMING UP .........................................................100
Safari ........................................................................104
Prologue
Chapter 1
“If all difficulties were known at the outset of a long journey, most
of us would never start out at all” Dan Rather
fi
fl
fl
fl
to be lovely. The hotel design is very modern,
furnished in very clean lines and bright colours.
Breakfast buffet was included in our stay. Two
mornings of eating more than I should. I expect this
may be a theme for our travels, as usual! Because
we were in the heart of downtown Johannesburg,
there were no long walks to be had here. Dinner
was very tasty but, perhaps considered “correct” in
an upscale restaurant, the service was painfully
slow!
fl
Chapter 2
October 23, 2022
“Investment in travel is an investment in yourself.”
Matthew Kirsten
fi
fi
9
Chapter 3
10
fi
11
fi
fi
Storms River travels through part of the Eastern
Cape and empties in to the Indian Ocean. The
mouth is spectacular for its rugged terrain and very
long suspension bridge. We reached the bridge
from the Storms River Mouth Rest Camp via a long
wooden boardwalk through beautiful forest. I
overcame my fear of heights and walked the full
length of the bridge - well worth the trek!
13
fi
comparison to the giant sequoias and redwoods in
California but noteworthy nonetheless. Dalene
Matthee (13 October 1938 – 20 February 2005)
was a South African author best known for her four
"Forest Novels", written in and around the Knysna
Forest. In particular, one that I have added to my
reading list is about the extinction of the Knysna
elephants, Circles in a Forest. However it is out of
print and will be very dif cult to locate. The giant
Outeniqua Yellowwood Tree at Krisjan-se-Nek was
named after at at the unveiling of her memorial.
This tree is some 880 years old and 40 meters
tall.Krisjan-se-Nek featured prominently in
Matthee's books, and is also her last resting place.
14
fi
15
fi
fi
Then back to the Rex Hotel in Knysna. Dinner was
again at the Dry Dock restaurant and then to bed
for another early start tomorrow.
16
Chapter 4
17
fi
18
fi
19
20
fi
to incubate, the female will stop laying until the
chicks have reached four to ve weeks of age,
resulting in nancial loss. As be ts the world's
largest bird, the ostrich lays the largest egg of any
living bird. Oddly enough, however, the ostrich
egg is one of the smallest in relation to the size of
the bird. Today, ostrich farms are considered to be
among the most pro table agricultural projects.
They are often referred to as "the farms of the
future" because of the large variety of possible
products and hence their high pro t potential.
Ostriches produce red meat that is very similar in
taste and texture to veal and beef depending on
the age at which they are slaughtered. It is high in
protein yet low in fat. *
21
fi
fi
fi
fi
fi
THE LETHAL TOE!
22
23
fi
fi
24
We returned Oudtshoorn where we checked in to
our hotel and had a late dinner expecting another
full day tomorrow!
25
Chapter 5
October 26, 2022
fi
27
28
29
30
fi
fi
We continued on to Montague through the
mountains for lunch. Then on to Cape Town.
31
32
33
Chapter 6
October 27, 2022
Rich Ridgeway
34
fi
35
fi
fi
fi
36
fl
37
fi
fi
Thanks to the Huguenot immigration,
Franschoek’s architecture and avour is
overwhelmingly European. The village is
unspoiled, as restrictions have been placed on the
extent of renovations and new construction in
order to preserve the spirit of the original French
settlers to the area. Franschhoek is notable for
having some of the top restaurants in the country
within its borders. This fact, together with the
strong wine culture, and pristine natural and
architectural beauty has made Franschhoek into
what many describe as the "food and wine capital"
of South Africa.*
The Huguenot Museum was extremely
informative, well laid out and thought provoking.
Not only was the history of the South African
Huguenots discussed but their immigration to
countries throughout the world. For me, this was
truly one of the highlights of our trip. After the
museum, we had lunch and wandered the streets,
as all good tourists must do! Many of the
restaurants and street names are French others
Dutch and some English. Before dinner, we
returned to our guest house for a well earned rest.
38
fl
In spite of there being all kinds of French
restaurants we ended up in the only English pub in
Franschoek! The food was unbelievable and the
beer may have been the best so far. It appears that
South Africa is not noted for its ales and dark beers
in general. It has been tough to nd a good one.
39
fi
Chapter 7
October 28, 2022
fi
grain production. In 1799 a cellar was built on the
estate and in the 19th Century acted as a
communal cellar for all the families in the district,
each having been allocated a large vat with their
family crest carved on the front. Anthonij Rupert
Wyne was founded on the farm L’Ormarins in
Franschhoek. Originally owned by the late Anthonij
Rupert, who passed away in 2001, the farm was
taken over by his brother Johann Rupert in 2003. It
was Johann Rupert who constructed a state-of-the-
art winemaking facility on the estate, and the
beginnings of what was to become a sprawling
enterprise with a focus on terroir speci c wines.
Rupert Wines today encapsulates six distinctive
wine brands, made from some of the nest sites in
the Western Cape
The Motor Museum has a history unto itself and
is closely tied to the wine estate. Dr Anton Rupert
opened the Heidelberg Museum in the old
Transvaal province in 1974. For more than 20 years,
locals and tourists ocked to the popular attraction.
In 1999, the museum was placed in the hands of
British American Tobacco (BAT). However, in 2003,
because the museum didn’t form part of the
41
fl
fi
fi
company’s core business, BAT decided to close its
doors. In 2004, upon hearing of its closure Mr
Johann Rupert, son of Dr Anton Rupert, bought the
collection his father started and relocated it to
L’Ormarins Estate in Franschhoek. The Heidelberg
Museum doesn’t exist anymore, but Dr Rupert’s
legacy lives on at Franschhoek Motor Museum,
where visitors from around the globe can look back
on more than 100 years of motoring history.*
The wine estate is a really interesting and unique
farm as well as winery - they are completely self-
sustaining for electricity, which is a big deal in
South Africa thanks to load shedding. They also
have copious water supplies, they have horse and
cattle stud farms, a blueberry farm and the Motor
Museum. They maintain environmental integrity
throughout their operations. The tasting rooms and
restaurant are stunning, as are all of the beautiful
buildings on the estate.
Oh yes, and the wine tasting! We did two wine
tastings, one before and one after lunch. The rst
was the “standard” wines and second the “premier”
wines. While I am sure that the wines were superb,
neither Brian nor I have much of a discerning
42
fi
43
44
fi
45
fi
Chapter 8
October 29, 2022
46
48
fi
fi
The best part of the day was the Penguin colony
at Boulders Beach. The African penguin is only
found on the south-western coast of Africa, living in
colonies on 24 islands between Namibia and
Algoa Bay, near Port Elizabeth. They are relatively
small and for me their most distinguishing feature
is the pink around their eyes. The sweat glands
above the eyes cool the birds' blood and as the
temperature rises, increased blood ow causes the
glands to get pinker. It is a charismatic species that
is known for its loud donkey-like braying noises.
The African penguin has experienced rapid
population declines over the past century as a
result of overexploitation for food, habitat
modi cation of nesting sites, oil spillages, and
49
fi
fl
competition for food resources with commercial
shing. As a result it is classi ed as Endangered by
the IUCN Red List and it is listed under Appendix II
of the CITES (Convention on International Trade of
Endangered Species).
Cute, cute, cute!!
50
fi
fi
We stopped at a tea house for an afternoon
snack -tea and pastries - and returned to our guest
house to get ready for our evening out.
51
52
53
Chapter 9
October 30, 2022
54
55
fi
fi
fi
attack. The Castle was planned around a central
point – a water-well under the “Boog” – with ve
bulwarks known as bastions with a large central
courtyard, also serving as a parade ground. Each
of the bastions housed its own garrison, magazine,
store rooms and specialized production centres
like smithies and bakeries. In 1695, the “Kat” was
added — a defensive wall built diagonally across
the courtyard to protect the fort from a land attack.
The Kat Balcony — the entrance to the governor’s
residence — is known for its uted pillars, wrought-
iron railings, and curved staircases. It was from this
balcony that announcements and judicial
sentences were read to the inhabitants of the
Castle.
56
fl
fi
providing an impenetrable wall of cannon re in
the event of an enemy attack. The Castle was
surrounded by a moat, part of which has been
restored.
57
fi
fi
fi
the depth and broadness of the history and diverse
culture.
58
59
fl
This building currently houses the William Fehr
Collection of artworks depicting aspects of cultural
life at the Cape from the VOC era until the end of
the 19th century. William Fehr (17 April 1892 – 2
April 1968) was a South African businessman and
art collector noted for his acquisition of famous
artworks. The collection was made publicly
available for the rst time in 1952 when Fehr and
other collectors were invited to display historic
pieces at the castle. A decade later the collection
was purchased by the state. I have included
photos of some of the oldest pieces just because I
was stunned by how old and well preserved they
are*
60
fi
From the castle, we brie y visited the Company
Gardens but more of that in tomorrow’s chapter.
61
fi
fl
62
63
Chapter 10
October 31, 2022
64
65
fi
Last visit was to Kirstenbosch National Botanical
Gardens Kirstenbosch places a strong emphasis
on the cultivation of indigenous plants. When
Kirstenbosch was founded in 1913 to preserve the
ora native to the South Africa’s territory, it was the
rst botanical garden in the world with this ethos,
at a time when invasive species were not
considered an ecological and environmental
problem. The gardens are immense! This is a place
that would require days to explore so we only saw a
very small part. The garden was actually
established in 1660. A hedge of wild almond and
brambles were planted around the perimeter of
the Dutch colony to protect the elds from
Khoikhoi raiding their livestock. Sections of this
hedge, named Van Riebeeck's Hedge, still exist
today! Over the following 250 years, the area
changed hands several times and eventually was
allowed to go to ruin. In 1913, it was purchased by
Henry Harold Pearson, a botanist from Cambridge
University, who developed it into a botanical
garden while suffering many nancial and personal
hardships.
66
fi
fl
fi
fi
In our tour of the garden, there were three things
that especially caught my interest. Kirstenbosch is a
renowned centre of botanical research. A yellow
owered strain of Strelitzia (Bird of Paradise),
originally named “Kirstenbosch Gold” ,was
developed here in the 1970’s and in 1996 was
renamed “Mandela’s Gold” as a tribute to him.
67
fl
68
fi
fi
fi
fi
fi
little success. Here they grow in droves, sort of like
a weed. They are native to South Africa and
common names are Natal lily or bush lily. Colours
typically range from yellow through orange to red
with strap-like leaves.
69
Chapter 11
November 1, 2022
“Africa has her mysteries, and even a wise man cannot understand
them. But a wise man respects them.”
Mariam Makeba
70
fi
Cape Town, and is one of the few to have retained
some of its historical character. It originated during
the third quarter of the 18th century. The rst
houses in this neighbourhood were probably built
in 1790 but between 1795 and 1820 an increasing
number of lower income families including many
artisans began to make their homes here. The
in ux of Malays into this quarter probably began in
the 1830s when slavery was abolished and Malay
residents who had been forcibly brought to the
Cape began to make their homes there. These
people were known as Cape Malays, and were
brought from Malaysia, Indonesia and the rest of
Africa.. Strict laws against the mixing of races
resulted in the preservation of the Bo-Kaap and its
culture. Many of the families in the Bo-Kaap have
been living there for generations. By the middle of
the 19th century it was already known as the
Islamic Quarter. It owes much of its character to the
nature of its domestic architecture, mostly single
storey houses with at roofs painted in a variety of
bright colours. To this day, the houses are a mix of
Cape Dutch and Georgian architecture, in
distinctive multi-coloured rows on steeply cobbled
71
fl
fl
fi
roads. The choice of colour is said to be attributed
to the fact that while on lease, all the houses had to
be white. When this rule was eventually lifted, and
the slaves were allowed to buy the properties, all
the houses were painted bright colours by their
owners as an expression of their freedom. A
number of mosques with picturesque minarets are
still in daily use. The Quarter was probably a major
factor why the Cape Malay community managed to
retain its identity as a group. Unfortunately the
quality of its environment began to deteriorate
after WWI, and in 1944 it was declared a slum. This
led a number of prominent Cape Town citizens to
form a group for the retention of the Malay
Quarter, with the support of both the then
Historical Monuments Commission as well as the
City Council.
72
73
Apartment buildings
74 recently
constructed in District Six
fl
fi
Langa Township was our nal stop. These photos
were on our way in to the Township. The pile of
discarded cattle skulls were left there after they
were acquired from a butcher and boiled down.
The meat is apparently delicious.
75
fi
76
fl
77
the wait was (and still can be) as long as 10 years
for one of these houses. Those who live in these do
pay the government some rent. The middle class
live in small homes, with fewer families sharing the
spaces. Again, the residents of these types of
homes pay rent to the government. The upper
class live in bigger houses and are employed in
professional roles such as accounting or in medical
jobs, but choose to stay in Langa to give back and
support the community which supported them.
Our guide lives in Langa, not necessarily be cause
he has to but because it is his community. He has
lived there forever and because accommodations
are relatively affordable, he is able to save money
for his children’s education. Families who have
lived in Langa, often for several generations, pass
their houses on to the next generation. Around
80,000 people live peacefully in the township,
most of whom belong to the Xhosa tribe. Now
there are other African nationalities living there too,
such as Somalians, Zimbabweans, Nigerians and
Congolese.
Education and healthcare are readily available in
Langa. There are at least 5 primary schools and 5
78
79
80
fi
81
82
fi
fi
fi
83
84
85
Chapter 12
November 2, 2022
“Life offers you a thousand chances… all you have to do is take one.”
Frances Mayes
86
fl
fl
fl
fl
87
fi
Chapter 13
November 3, 2022
“Our children may learn about the heroes of the past. Our task is to
make ourselves architects of the future”
Jomo Kenyatta
88
fi
fi
89
90
fi
fi
fl
91
fi
92
fi
The Museum Entrance
93
fi
fi
94
fi
ranging from extravagant mansions to makeshift
shacks.
One of the most frequently visited tourist
destinations in Soweto is Nelson Mandela’s house.
The Nelson Mandela National Museum, commonly
referred to as Mandela House, is the house at 8115
Vilakazi Street, Orlando West, Soweto, South Africa,
where Nelson Mandela lived from 1946 to 1962.
Mandela came back to the house after his release
from prison in 1990, despite suggestions from
government of cials that he nd a safer home. At a
rally welcoming him home to Soweto his opening
words were, "I have come home at last." However,
after 11 days back at the house he moved out
again. He later wrote in his autobiography:
“That night I returned with Winnie to No. 8115 in
Orlando West. It was only then that I knew in my
heart I had left prison. For me No. 8115 was the
centre point of my world, the place marked with an
X in my mental geography.”
95
fi
fi
96
97
fi
fi
98
fi
fl
fi
1990, and served as the venue for a memorial
service to him on 10 December 2013. It was also
the venue for the 2010 FIFA World Cup Final, which
was played by the Netherlands and Spain. The
World Cup closing ceremony on the day of the
nal saw the nal public appearance of Mandela.
99
fi
fi
SUMMING UP
“If there are dreams about a beautiful South Africa, there are also
roads that lead to their goal.”
fl
101
fi
fi
fi
102
fi
of very rich and an undetermined number
considered middle class.
Having tried to nd out from my reading what the
future for South Africa might, it seems that no one
has a crystal ball. I hope and pray that the the
future is bright for this beautiful and culturally rich
country.
103
fi
Safari
November 4 - 18, 2022
104
fl
fl
fl
aren’t as comfortable as a van when driving fast
through the park!
Ecozones of Kruger
105
National Park
106
107
108
fi
109
110
fi
A s I said, we did two game drives in open
safari vehicles. Justene and Christo had
organized this for us and it was amazing. We left at
about 5pm and did a sunset game drive through
the park until we reached a spot where we had a
“bush braai” - the same as Christo’s but prepared
for us at a remote place with no electricity which
meant we ate by solar lighting. It was a bit
disconcerting because everywhere were ying
baby termites called alates that were drawn to the
light. Because it had rained the day before these
ying insects had hatched out and were in our
food, our drinks, all over everything. It was actually
pretty gross and made it more than a bit dif cult to
eat and drink….but part of the ambiance! However,
111
fl
fl
fi
it was a fabulous experience - one I would not have
wanted to miss for anything.
112
113
114
fi
fi
115
116
fi
117
fi
wilderness areas left to the human race on earth
and our mission is to create this awareness
amongst our clients. The more people worldwide
that stand up for our natural heritage the more we
and future generations will bene t.”
118
fi
119
Our guides on Wilderness Trail
A nother part of South African history that is
within Kruger is a late Iron Age mining and
smelting site called Masorini. The African Iron Age
is traditionally marked as between about 200 BCE–
1000 CE. However Masorini was inhabited by the
Sotho speaking BaPhalaborwa during the1800’s,
who developed an advanced and sophisticated
industry of mining, smelting iron ore and trading in
these iron products. Through archaeological and
ethnographic investigations the site has been
reconstructed as truthfully as possible. The huts
have recently been renovated by local
BaPhalaborwa people living on the borders of the
park. There is a site museum and picnic area at the
foot of the hill and guided tours to the top where
the reconstructed huts and furnace can be seen.
Unfortunately, the guide wasn’t at the site when we
were there.
120
Reconstructed Huts
Reconstructed Iron
Smelter
121
fi
122
fl
Huge Thunderstorm
123
124
fi
fi
125
The White-headed
Vulture
fi
fl
own business on the road. From behind our van a
herd of elephants slowly approached and when
they saw, or smelled, the wild dogs, part of the
elephant herd attacked. After the elephants were in
the bush, some of the wild dogs ventured back out
on to the road, only to be attacked by another part
of the elephant herd that had come up from
behind. I have lost track of whether this happened
two or three times but it was actually a bit scary
because the elephants attacked from both sides of
our van….thrilling, yes, but scary!
127
128
129
fi
130
131