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Model # WR1000-A 07 - 11

THE WEST WR 07 - 11
Thank you for purchasing the new West WR-07race car. We hope you and your car enjoy many successful racing events. Please review the following information about your new West race car before hitting the track.


The initial shake down on the car after taking delivery is essential to determine that both the car and the driver are race ready. It is recommended to dedicate one day to break in motor and shakedown the car before a race weekend. This shake down should be attended by a qualified and experienced race mechanic. In receiving your new WEST prior to Engine Break-in, the following initial Chassis Set-up tasks should be performed on the car: Chassis Set-up Tasks 1. Alignment the toe in/out needs to be checked and set to factory settings. Shipping can cause mis-alignment. 2. Ride Height the car is shipped with a raised ride height for shipping purposes, return to race ride height settings. 3. Camber the camber needs to be checked and set to factory settings. 4. Brakes bleed brakes before going on track and again after getting brakes up to temperature. 5. Brake Bias check brake bias. 6. Fluid Check - check all fluid levels which include water, oil, and brake. 7. Nut & Bolt - completely check all nuts and bolts in addition to an examination of all fittings for leaks after car has been on the track. Engine Break-in The Kawasaki ZX10R crate engines have been bench tested at the factory and are ready to race after completion of the following break-in procedures: Heat Cycle Start Procedure Perform 3 cold engine start-ups (see section 9 for engine start procedure) warming the motor to 200F water temp, followed by engine cool down to 100F or less. Monitor temperatures and pressures to confirm the dash and sensors are functioning correctly. On Track Break-in Procedure Perform 1 installation lap checking for leaks and confirming shifting, braking, and steering are safe. Perform 3 low rev (8000 rpm limit) laps on the track maintaining water temp within 160 to 180F range and oil temp within 180 to 200F range. Return to pit to allow engine to completely cool (less than 100F water temp), repeat On Track Break-in Procedure 3 more times before operating engine at race levels, (greater than 8000 rpm). Upon completion of the Set-up tasks and Engine Break-in procedures, the on track portion of the initial shake down should consist of multiple series of out-lap, medium speed lap, in-lap followed by an examination of all the mechanical, electrical, hydraulic systems of the car.

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Removing and installing the body. The body is fastened by dzus buttons, which require a 3/16 hex. It is recommended to remove the nose and tail with 2 people, in order to prevent scratches. The front of the nose is held down by hooking the flange under the nose to the aluminum strip on the front splitter assembly. Look through the tire opening to confirm the nose is captured correctly under the aluminum strip. Gently slide the back edge of the nose over the joggles located on the center section. The tail is fastened by dzus buttons plus two push pins in the differential case. It is recommended to attach safety wire to the push pins to prevent losing them. Beware when setting bodywork upright, on the leading edge, as it is prone to blow over due in windy conditions.

Brake Fluid The car is shipped with Motul 600 brake fluid. It is recommended that Motul, AP, Castrol, or Brembo high performance brake fluid is used. However, do not mix fluids and complete drain system before changing fluid manufacture. Water & Coolant - Check water level in the header tank. Level should be 1-2 below the cap. An anti-freeze coolant may be necessary if the car will be exposed to freezing temperatures for an extended period. Engine Oil - KAWASAKI ZX-10R The oil level should be half to three quarters up the sight-glass, immediately after shutting the motor off. The Chassis must be level when the oil is checked. We recommend Mobil 1 MX4T Synthetic oil which incorporates anti-foaming agents, and is formulated to run in the integral gearbox and clutch as well as the engine after the break in period. Any 10w-40 oil is acceptable. Oil and filter should be changed after a minimum of six (6) hours of race circuit use.

West race cars use a mechanical operated paddle shifter or an electric paddle shifter. REMEMBER FOR EITHER SYSTEM, UP SHIFT IS ON THE RIGHT AND DOWNSHIFT IS ON THE LEFT. Mechanical Shift System - Pull back on the right side paddle to upshift. Pull back on the left side st nd paddle to downshift. Remember that neutral is between 1 and 2 gear. Using both hands on the st paddles makes it easier to find neutral. Remember to engage 1 gear when st leaving the pits by pulling back on the left paddle to downshift the car into 1 gear. Electric Shift System The Pingel electric shift system has a safety device built in. In order to turn on electric shift, hold down either side of the paddle for at least 5 seconds. This step has to be performed every time the master st switch is turned on. Pull the back on the left side to engage 1 . The electric shift is disarmed once the master switch is turned off. NOTE: For cars fitted with the optional Pro-Shift system, if the actuator is removed, make sure it is reinstalled and adjusted EXACTLY as specified in the Pro-Shift manual. If actuator piston does not bottom out before the end of the shift lever travel, gearbox damage will occur. Flat Shift The electric shift system as an ignition interrupt that allows for full throttle up shifts. This should be adjusted during the shakedown.

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Brake Bias Setup Never assume the bias is correct as delivered. Jack the car up and have an assistant hold down the brake pedal until you can just barely rotate a front tire. Go to a rear tire and rotate it. The effort should be a little less than the front tire. A torque wrench can be used to achieve a more accurate result. Further adjustment can be made to suit individual circuits and tire configurations. Adjust bias to the rear in wet conditions. Adjust knob to the right to increase front bias. Adjust knob to the left to increase rear bias. Bedding in Rotors The car comes standard with PFC 01 compound brake pads. To bed in the brakes and achieve maximum stopping power, a film of material must be transferred to the rotors. Gently apply brakes 6 to 8 times at medium speed. Increase speed to simulate race conditions, and apply brakes hard a further 6 to 8 times. This can be performed during Engine Break In. Allow brakes to cool for 15 minutes. Do not apply brakes whilst stationary during cooling down period. Perform a standard brake bleeding procedure. The brakes should now be race ready. Brake Bleeding Bleeding brakes is a two person operation. Before bleeding brakes, rotate the rear calipers to an upright position. This is achieved by removing one caliper bolt and loosen the other slightly. Rotate the caliper up as far as it will go. Insert a block that is the same thickness as the rotor when the calipers are in the upright position. Use normal brake bleeding methods.

Chain Lubricate chain lightly before each outing. Use a synthetic chain spray lubricant. Chain tension should be set at !"-"" of play at extremes of movement. Tension should be measured at three points around the sprocket circumference to check for tight spots. Chain alignment should be checked using a straight edge placed on the face of the rear sprocket, and lined-up with the front sprocket. If the chain is lubricated, tensioned and aligned correctly, it will provide many trouble-free racing miles. Chain is adjusted by loosening the two side bolts (Figure 1.1) and then by tightening or loosening the two nuts in the inside rear of the diffcase (Figure 1.2). Alignment is adjusted by the nuts in the inside rear of the diffcase.

Figure 1.1

Figure 1.2

Note: As a precaution, it is recommended that the chain be replaced after twelve hours of racing miles. Only replace with a high-strength DID 530ZVM chain. This is a rivet master link chain which requires a special tool available from West.

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Differential - The Quaife differential used on the WR-1000A uses six socket head studs and flared nuts to fix the Rebel drive flange to the differential flange. Important: These need to be checked after each race meeting. Simply unbolt the CV joint from the alloy drive flange (careful not to let CV joint disengage from itself), remove circlip and slide drive flange off spline. Behind that you will see the 6 studs with locking flange nuts, torque each nut to 250in-lbs. If studs are replaced install with blue loctite and wind them in using with an allen key till they bottom out. Put the flange and 6 stud washer plate on and torque to 250 in lbs. Make sure this is all done in one step before the loctite has gone off.

The stock Kawasaki motors can use any premium unleaded street gas. However, fuel is usually controlled by the race organization. The WR-07 fuel system consists of an external electric pump, filter, and an adjustable pressure regulator. The fuel pressure should be set to 44psi. The fuel filter element should be changed regularly. When ignition is turned on the pump will only run for 5 seconds, this enough time to allow for a fuel sample. Fuel level can be checked by pumping the tank dry. Approximately 3.5 gallons of fuel will last 30 minutes of racing. The WR-07 fuel cell holds approximately 10 gallons.

West provides a custom wiring harness with each car. West supports both a stock Kawasaki ECUs and harness and an EFI aftermarket ECU and harness.

Starting Procedure - WARNING! Make sure the car is in neutral before starting. After confirming the car is in neutral, turn the red handled engine kill switch on the upper right back of the driver cockpit opening. Confirm that the AIM dash is operating and access the tachometer page that displays engine water and oil temperature and oil pressure. Crank the engine starter by activating the engine starter button labeled STARTER (in yellow) before actually starting the motor to ensure oil pressure is within the normal operating range from 6-12 psi. Then activate ignition button labeled IGNITION (in red), followed by the starter button to start the Kawasaki ZX10R engine. Engine idle can be adjusted to 2000 to 2500 rpm initially, then adjusted down to the recommended idle of 1500 rpm by using the engine idle screw, which is located in the rear of the motor.

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Engine Temps and Pressures: Normal oil pressure operating range at speed, under throttle should be 40-60psi. At idle the pressure can drop to 10psi, which may result in setting off a low oil pressure alarm which is not problematic at idle conditions. Normal engine oil temperature operating range is around 90-100C. Oil temperature can be modulated via changes to the opening size of the oil cooler flap. This flap may be raised or lowered by changing the size of the stand-off spacer supporting the flap on the nose section of the car. Normal water temperature operating range is 80C but not to exceed 95C. Water temperature can be modulated via changes to the opening size of the radiator cooling flap. This flap may be raised or lowered by changing the size of the stand-off washer supporting the flap on the nose section of the car. A strip of duct tap can be added to the radiator intake flap to increase water temperature if it is too cold. From our experience 1cm change in the flap height will have approx 10C impact.

10. DASH
The AIM MXL Strada or Pista (data acquisition capable) is installed on the car. An AIM owners manual and software is provided with car. For further information or help concerning the dash or data acquisition, it is recommended that you contact your nearest AIM dealer.


The car is set up at the factory, but all settings should be checked after extended transport. Ride height may have been raised for ease of loading. The final settings are determined by a particular drivers preference and the particular circuit. Check the tire temperatures for balance across the contact patch within one minute of a fast lap. The inside edge may be 10-15 higher than the outer edge. Factory recommended settings for race set-up on bias ply tires Front Camber Toe Out Tire Press. (Cold) Tire Press. (Hot) Ride Height Anti-Roll Bar Camber Toe In Tire Press. (Cold) Tire Press. (Hot) Ride Height Anti-Roll Bar 1 - 1! negative 2 1 0- /32" (per wheel) ,0- /8" (overall) 11-13psi (Nitrogen) 15-17psi 1.5 (Note1) Not used Rear .5 - 1 negative 1 1 1 1 /32"- /16" in (per wheel) /16"- /8" in (overall) 13-15psi (Nitrogen) 17-19psi 2.0 (Note2) Not used

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RIDE HEIGHT Set ride height by adjusting the pushrod with the adjuster nuts (Figure 2.1). The square nut requires a " wrench, which is a right hand thread. The rod end is left handed, so turning the " nut will lengthen or shorten the pushrod. Note 1 This is measured at the forward edge floor, with driver. Note 2 This is measured at the floor, just ahead of the rear tire, with driver. Lower the ride height until you notice some rubbing on the skid blocks, then raise the car slightly and record the setting for that track.



Figure 2 Ride Height and Camber Adjustment FRONT CAMBER Front camber is adjusted using the large rod end in the upper a-arm, outer end. See figure 2.2. Loosen the 15/16nut and back off the 5/16hex threaded tube inside the a-arm. REAR CAMBER Rear camber is adjusted by shims. The inner end of the upper a-arms are attached to billet brackets which must be loosened, and then shims are added or removed behind the bracket. More shims give more positive camber. ALIGNMENT Front toe is adjusted using the steering link from the steering rack. There are left and right handed rod ends in each link. Loosen the check nuts on each rod end, and turn the link using the hex in the center. Rear toe is adjusted using the same type adjuster nut as the pushrods. This adjuster nut is located on the toe link in the upper rear A arms. SHOCK SETTINGS Ohlins ST44 Bump is adjusted by the knob on the canister. Clockwise is full stiff. There are ~30 clicks total. Start 3 clicks out from full stiff. Too much force when closing the adjusters can cause damage. Rebound is adjusted by the large black knob on the end of the shock, under the spring perch. Clockwise is stiffer. There are ~50 clicks total. Front shocks 20 clicks out from full stiff. Rear shocks 8 clicks. Further adjustments should be made to suit individual circuits and driver performance.

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TYRES Recommended for SCCA: Goodyear compounds Hard R250 Good for extreme hot temperatures or endurance racing Medium R175 Good for longer life. Soft R160 Good for ultimate performance. Limited tire life. West Race Cars Australia has a tyre deal with Avon for 2010, phone us for further information. CORNER WEIGHTS For maximum performance, the WR-07 should have the corner weights accurately set with the driver in car. The procedure is as follows: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Position the car on a flat, horizontal surface. Equalize all tire pressures to hot settings. Take all readings with driver in car, or equivalent weight in the seat. Set ride height front & rear, camber front & rear and finally toe-in front & rear. Put car on weight scales, and set corner weights by adjusting pushrod nuts. A typical reading without a driver will be +/-, Front 160 lbs, Rear 230 lbs (It is not necessary that the RF/LF and RR/LR exactly equal, +/- 5-10lbs is adequate) Tighten all fasteners.

The West WR1000 is fitted standard with a 17 tooth front sprocket and a 46 tooth rear sprocket. It is recommended that additional sprockets are purchased as gearing is track dependent. Additional sprockets available include: Front - 15T, 17T. Rear - 44T, 45T, 47T, and 48T. Note: 1 tooth on the front is equivalent to approx. 3 teeth on the rear. The gearing should be set so that the engine has achieved maximum RPM at the end of the fastest section of the circuit.

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Gear Chart

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Front Axle Nut (4 bolt) Rear Axle Nut (4 bolt) 4 Bolt wheel nuts Front Axle Nut (Center lock) Rear Axle Nut (Center lock) Center lock wheel nuts Gearbox output sprocket nut (front sprocket) Differential Sprocket Nuts (rear sprocket) Quaife drive studs (Socket head) Quaife flange nuts (for socket head studs) CV Bolts Lower Front and Rear Upright Bolts Upper Front Upright Bolts 125 ft-lbs 175 ft-lbs 50 ft-lbs 220 ft-lbs 275 ft-lbs (Green Loctite #620-70) 130 ft-lbs 92 ft-lbs 21 ft-lbs 200in-lbs (red loctite) 250 in-lbs (check after every race meeting) 220 in-lbs 60 ft-lbs 60 ft-lbs

Note: See Motorcycle Service Manual for specific engine torque settings.

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14. TRANSPORTATION The West sports racer is designed to run with low ride heights and the front splitter/tunnel drags the ground when loading into a trailer. We have found loading is easier pulling the car in rear first, and using the front jack to lift and roll the car when it touches the ground. All the normal things also help, i.e. jack up the front of the trailer as high as possible, use a beavertail style trailer, and use long ramps. The car may be secured in the trailer with straps to the rear transaxle-case crossbar, and the front jack brackets. Dont pull the front jack brackets at extreme angles or they may bend. The car can move a little on the straps, it does not need to be torn apart by tie down straps. Redundant straps are more important than over tightening.

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Race Preparation Check List Chassis, Suspension and Steering Clean chassis and suspension components Clean underside of car Visually check for damage (cracks, twists and kinks) to all components Check bushings and rod-end bearings for wear Check dampers for leakage and signs of wear Check wheel bearings for excessive play or noise Check wheel bearing nuts for signs of movement Check tightness of pivot bolts, rod-end bearings and lock nuts, uprights, steering rack mounts, UJ bolts and dampers Check condition of floor Brake System Visually check for leaks on calipers - pipes and master cylinders Check hydraulic fluid level Check brake lines for kinks and chafing Clean calipers and master cylinders Check brake pads for wear and general condition, replace if necessary Bleed hydraulic system Check operation of brake bias-bar Check pedal travel Check tightness of calipers, master cylinders and banjo bolts Check wheel nuts Transmission Check condition of drive chain and replace if necessary Change sprocket gearing if required Check tension and alignment of chain and sprocket Check security of engine sprocket/nut/tab washer Check differential bearings Check drive flange all bolts Check security of driveshaft and boots Check condition of gear linkage rod-end bearings Lubricate chain Check operation of clutch Check that electric reverser drive adjusted to mesh with ring gear Engine Check tightness of engine mountings Check for sump damage Check valve clearances if necessary Oil System Visually check for oil leaks Change oil and filter if necessary


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Check oil level - very important - be sure that chassis is level. Check oil pressure Check radiator and duct for damage Check security of breather pipe Check oil pipes for damage and tightness Cooling System Visually check for leaks and chafing of pipes Check radiator and duct for damage Check system for air and bleed as necessary Check security of pipes, bleed screws and fittings Check coolant level Check condition and fit of radiator cap Fuel System Visually check for leaks Fuel level? Check full-throttle position and cable freedom Check security of carburetors and air box Check balance of carburetors and adjust as necessary Check operation of fuel pump Check fuel filter and change as necessary Check air filter - clean and oil if required. Check breather pipe Exhaust System Check for leakage Check manifold nuts for tightness Check condition of retaining springs, rubber mountings and brackets Electrical System Check condition and security of battery Check operation of dashboard, including all warning lights Check loom and battery cables for security and chaffing Check security and condition of connectors and terminals Check operation of rain light Check condition of master switch Check condition of plug leads Check operation of lap timer Check operation of all lights Check brake light switch (if pedal type) Check wheel-speed sensor on dash and data logger Check lap timer operation and battery Check tightness of ignition pick-ups and rotor Slowly charge battery if necessary Data Logger

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Fasten lap timer/logger to function on the correct side of the car Check HT leads and coils Check settings of ECU Interior Check security of seat and restraint harness Check condition of quick-release steering wheel if fitted Check condition and security of fire extinguisher and contents level (service date) Check security of head rest Vacuum and clean interior Check security of pedal stops, lock nuts and adjusters Check throttle cable route and free play Wheels and Tires Clean and check for damage Check tire condition and replace if necessary Tighten wheels to the correct torque settings, and adjust tire pressures Tape balance weights to wheels for security Bodywork Check bodywork for damage and replace parts as necessary Check condition of clips, adjust and replace as necessary Check front and rear mounting frames for damage Check security of side pods Check security of mirrors, windscreen, splitters, gurney flap and wing Check condition of all stickers and numbers and replace as required Check and clean rear undertray Camera Check operation of camera Clean camera lens Change or rewind tape as required SET UP Add drivers weight Set tire pressures Remove bolts from anti-roll bar Slacken dampers Check ride height Check & set camber - front & rear Check & set toe angles - front & rear Check & set corner weights Refit anti-roll bar Reset dampers Check minimum ride height Remove weight

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