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In Wakatobi, Southeast Sulawesi
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This booklet is produced by the Tourism Division of the Australia-Indonesia Youth Exchange Program 2010-2011 Community Development project in Wakatobi: Andrio Arozak Salam Ferrawanti Hsu Lynn Lee Indah Permata Suryani Lenny Malianive Seiler Matt Couzens We wish to acknowledge the assistance provided by our host families in Waelumu, Waetuno, and Patuno, the non-governmental organisation Coremap II in Waha, as well as the Department of Tourism and Culture, Wakatobi.
Getting to Wakatobi:
Flights to Wangi-Wangi can be arranged with the airline Express Air. The airport at Wangi-Wangi is called Bandara Matahora. The schedule is as follows: Kendari - Wakatobi: Twice a week (Thursday and Saturday) Wangi-Wangi – Kendari: Twice a week (Thursday and Saturday) Wangi-Wangi - Baubau: Everyday Wangi-Wangi – Baubau – Makassar: Everyday Wangi-Wangi - Jogjakarta: Everyday except Thursday and Saturday Wangi-Wangi - Surabaya: Everyday except Thursday and Saturday Wangi-Wangi - Jakarta: Everyday except Thursday and Saturday Airline Agent is located at Jl. Ahmad Yani No.22 Mandati, Wangi-Wangi Contact Phone numbers: +62 821 9307 1592 (Wangi-Wangi) +62 813 4186 2495 (Kendari) PUBLIC TRANSPORT Taxi, Angkot, Ojek. Motorcycle Rental *this can be arranged with the Host Family MONEY ACCESS International ATMs are inaccessible in Wangi –Wangi. ATMs are available for domestic bank accounts (BRI). Location: Jl. Jendral Sudirman Near Hotel Wakatobi INTERNET Media Centre Hotspot—Voucher Rp.10.000,- for 3 days Free Hotspot (TELKOM): Behind Bupati’s Rujab PHONES Provider: Telkomsel *For international travellers who do not have mobile international roaming, cell phones can be bought cheaply along with a Simpati or As simcard.
Maps courtesy of Wangi-Wangi Tourism Department
OTHER ISLANDS OF WAKATOBI
Wakatobi is made up of four main islands Wangi Wangi (WA), Kaledupa (KA), Tomia (TO) and Binongko (BI). While all of the islands are blessed with breathtaking beaches and have an abundant marine life, travellers will notice there are slight differences between the landscapes. Some are more mountainous than others, and others more rocky. There are slight dialect differences and even interesting differences with community life, which makes the trip to the other islands all the more worthwhile. KALEDUPA One of the most interesting places to visit in Kaledupa is the Bajo village. In Kaledupa especially, many Bajo Villagers still live in houses on the water, and move from place to place in a Koli-koli or Soppe (canoes). The landscape in Kaledupa is more mountainous than Wangi wangi and visitors will find long stretches tropical forestry when travelling from place to place. TOMIA One of the cleanest islands of Wakatobi, there are extraordinary views from Tomia. The island is also very green. There is a lookout peak from where you can see the surrounding islands and the clear blue-green ocean while enjoying the fresh breeze. BINONGKO Binongko was formerly referred to as Blacksmith Island. Here travellers will find a lot of families make their living as blacksmiths, working in huts atop of the rockcliffs along the beach. Binongko has a very rocky landscape, and can be harder to navigate compared to the other islands, but nonetheless worth the visit.
LOCAL HOTSPOTS WANGI-WANGI, WAKATOBI
Matahora Lookout The perfect place to watch the sunrise. From 5am onwards, you can watch the sunrise behind Matahora Island. Before it starts getting too hot, it’s a good idea to drive down to Sousa Beach and explore the Matahora-Sousu area at low tide. Matahora Island The Matahora-Sousa village head owns a couple of (rickety) speedboats and he’ll be happy to take you to Matahora Island for Rp200.000. The trip lasts just over 15 minutes. Once on the island, you can chill out in a little wooden house built on the cliff, hang on the white sand beach, or take a dip in the clear waters. The island is clean and untouched. Sousu Beach After watching the sunrise at Matahora Lookout, Sousu Beach is the next stop. You can walk along the beach at low tide and discover all sorts of marine life forms. The people of Wangi-Wangi are generally early risers, so you’ll probably run into a group of fishermen or some ladies doing their laundry on the rocks. There are some small wooden huts (bale-bale) to relax in. You can try climbing a coconut tree, or you can pay a small sum of money to some of the locals to cut down some coconuts for you. They will chop off to top so you can drink the coconut juice, and then cut the shell in half so you can eat the white flesh of the coconut. Longa Beach A small beach near the village of Longa with some small wooden huts (bale-bale), some clear spots of sand and the ocean.
Molisahatu Beach A long stretch of golden sand and clear shallow ocean. This beach is quite quiet and peaceful, and doesn’t have too many big waves. You may be fortunate enough to run into a man collecting green papayas who would be more than happy to let you sample them. The more adventurous travellers can walk in the ocean, around the rocks to the right of Molisahatu, and find an exclusive and peaceful beach there. Patuno Village A quaint island village with many lovely homestays. In true Indonesian fashion, most people are related and almost everyone knows everyone else. There are warungs and small shops. Often you will see people sitting and talking in a small wooden hut (bale-bale) or the children playing sport in the local fields. Wanci Water Caves There are four water caves near Wanci. The water caves are rock enclosures deep in the ground where there are pools of fresh, cold water. Many of the local people go to the water caves to wash their clothes or to play in the water. The most impressive ones are Teekosapi and Kontamale. Wisata Restaurant, Wanci A floating restaurant on wooden stilts over the clear ocean water, Wisata Restaurant is an ideal location for a lunch break. Enjoy the beautiful views of sea and sky while you tuck into some great food. Try the passionfruit juice (pamirsa) and local roast chicken (ayam kampung bakar). A main meal with rice is around Rp30.000.
WHERE TO STAY
LAN SALI HOMESTAY
Brief Description The Lan Sali Homestay is situated in the heart of the village of Waetuno. It is home to two families consisting of a total of six people. It is located approximately 300 meters from the office hall and overlooks spectacular sea views from the back of the home stay. Lan Sali is home to a traditional fishing family, and a family also with a teaching background. The families are very humble and hospitable, with a warm and generous nature and an amazing sense of humor. It would not be difficult to feel at ease, comfort, and at all times welcome, during your stay at Lan Sali. The Facilities The homestay provides a decent size bedroom of a two person capacity, with a double bed with built in cabinets for small storage and an electric fan as it can get hot during the wet season and throughout the day. There is a shared bathroom and toilet of a traditional standard and clothes washing amenities are limited to hand wash only with basins supplied. The kitchen cooking style is a traditional mix of wood fire and kerosene stoves. Additional Info There is a motorcycle available for rental with rates to be negotiated at a reasonable price, that can be accessed if needed. Upon negotiation it could be arranged for you to visit a number of popular and some secret local destinations, where you can enjoy the beautiful sea views and venture out into the seas and experience the underwater paradise that is Wakatobi. For further information, please call: Pak Haris (085254954833)
WHERE TO STAY
PAK KADIR & BUNDA SUNARIA’S HOMESTAY
Brief Description The owner of homestay, Pak Kadir and Bunda Sunaria is the head of Waetuno village on the island of Wangi-Wangi, Wakatobi. This lovely family has one son (Jamma, grade 1 junior high school) and one daughter (Soraia, grade 6 elementery school). Bunda Sunaria is a housewife so you can spend your time talking with her, learning how to cook traditional food, or learning the regional dialect. The Facilities The homestay has two guest bedrooms (two persons capacity for each room). It includes one king size bed, a fan, cupboard, and window. There is one share toilet that is very clean. In addtion, the homestay includes a TV room, guest room, washing machine, dining room, backyard, and also a bale-bale (a traditional hut made from bamboo used for family gatherings). The house is quite modern and comfortable to stay and you can enjoy the hospitality of locals. Additional Info There are two motorcycles that are available for rental. If more motorcycles are needed, the family is able to organise additional motorcycles. Bunda Sunaria is very generous and can speak basic English. The family is also able to arrange a local tour guide for you. The house is in close walking distance to the beach. For further information, please call: Pak Kadir (081245799240)
Central Markets, Wanci A bustling marketplace where you can find most homeware essentials as well as stalls and stalls of clothes, shoes and bags. You can try out your Indonesian haggling skills. If you dig around the second-hand clothes stores, you can pick up some cheap vintage clothes.
Liya Fortress (Benteng Liya) A 20 minute motorcycle ride from Wanci, the climb up to Liya Fortress is quite steep and the roads are narrow. Travellers who make the journey are greeted by a stone structure, beautiful frangipani trees, a 60 year old mosque, and a grave site.
Waha Beach The best local snorkling and diving spot. A community-run organisation offers snorkling gear, a guide, an underwater photo, and more, for a modest price. If you don’t know where to go once you’re in the water, there will always be a local kid to show you the way. The coral reefs are amazing and there are many different types of fish.
Kasoami Kasoami is a traditional side dish made from cassava, that is often eaten in place of rice. For the local people of Wakatobi, kasoami is part of their daily diet. There are two types of Kasoami—the first is Kasoami Biasa and Kasoami Pepe. Kasoami Biasa is the regular Kasoami that’s made purely from grated cassava which is then steamed into a sticky form. It is made triangular in shape, whereas Kasoami Pepe is rolled into a sticky log shape. Kasoami Pepe is mashed together with fried onion and vegetable oil and keeps for several days. Luluta Luluta is rice inserted into hollow bamboo stick which is then cooked over a fire. The rice is covered firstly in banana leaves and placed in the bamboo. When it Parande Fish This type of fish is only found in Wakatobi and usually used in soups. Kabaebae Made from corn kernels mixed with red beans. Heloasira Young coconut cooked with chicken or fish. Lapa Rice wrapped in coconut leaf or banana leaf or janur, and served at Lebaran, a traditional ceremony, wedding or sunatan. Other snacks Fried banana (loka hole); sukun This snacks can easily found everywhere as snack. Best served when hot.
WHERE TO STAY
LA ODE URFIN HOMESTAY
Brief Description La Ode Urfin is located in Patuno Village. La Ode Urfin is a civil servant in the Office of Trade and Industry in the Wakatobi Regency. His wife is a housewife and they have three children, one daughter and two sons. This homestay is located in the main road in Waetuno, Wangi-Wangi. It is very easy to catch the public transportation from just outside the homestay. The Facilities There is one bedroom for guests (two person capacity). It includes one king-size spring bed, a fan, cupboard and dressing-table. There is one private toilet that is very clean, a living room, TV room, washing machine, and dining room. This homestay is quite a modern house. Additional Info They have two motorcycles that you can rent. The homestay can also provide a local tour guide (La Ode Urfin’s son) to accompany you, if you want to look around Wangi-Wangi. La Ode Urfin’s wife is a weaver and you can practice how to weave with her if you wish. Weaving is one of the traditional handicrafts of Wangi-Wangi. They usually make sarong and clothes from weaved materials. For further information, please call: La Ode Urfin (081245901597)
WHERE TO STAY
One of the local crafts performed by women and teenagers living in Wakatobi is weaving. They usually make sarongs and scarves. Woven material from Wakatobi is known for its vibrant colours. The price of sarongs and scarves can vary greatly, starting from as little as one hundred thousand rupiah right up to one million rupiah, depending on the type of thread used and the width of the final product. Weaving can be found on basically every island of Wakatobi (Wangi-Wangi, Kaledupa, Tomia & Binongko). On WangiWangi island, it can be found in Kelurahan Waetuno.
LA BAUNA HOMESTAY
Brief Description La Bauna is the name of the grandfather who lives in this homestay together with his big family. The homestay is located in Patuno Village (± 100 meter from office hall). Since La Bauna is a fisherman, he is often out sailing for long periods of time. Despite this, the atmosphere in the homestay is always alive as the house is full of children. For those of you who love kids, La Bauna Homestay is a great opportunity to mingle with the local children (they are more than happy to learn something new from guests). The Facilities The homestay has one bedroom for its guests (three persons capacity). It includes one king-sized bed, one mattress, fan and a cupboard. There is one shared toilet that is very clean, as well as a well that can be used for showering, if you are a bit more adventurous. The homestay includes a TV room, washing machine, guest room, dining room and also one plank bed in the backyard. You can also experience the traditional kitchen at La Bauna Homestay, made out of wood (as opposed to a conventional stove). Moreover there is cassava machine to produce the main traditional food in Wakatobi (Kasoami) that you can try. Additional Info They have three motorcycles and two koli-koli (canoe) that you can rent. La Bauna’s grandson can be your tourist guide and show you around the area. The beach is just outside the backyard. Three words to describe La Bauna Homestay are: Simplicity, Hospitality and Vivacity. For further information, please call: La Bauna (081343243936)
LANGUAGE & CULTURE
Bahasa/Language The language that is spoken by the local people of Wangi-Wangi island is Pogau Wanci (Bahasa Wanci). The language is very different from Bahasa Indonesia. Most local people speak Pogau Wanci and occasionally you will find that some people cannot speak Bahasa Indonesia at all. The following is a short list of daily Pogau I/me: Yaku You: Ko’o Mr: Waama Mrs: Waina Who: Ye’emai What: Paira Where: Umpa When: Ke hia Why: Noha’a How: Noha’a Which: Mea umpa Sit: Kedeng kedemo How much?: Sapaira? Social & Cultural Aspects Wangi-wangi is a 100% Muslim society, and for the most part, social and cultural activities on the island are shaped around their Islamic beliefs and traditions. Wangi-Wangi is indeed a harmonious and safe island. More often than not, one will see residents just sitting, chatting and sharing their stories at the front of their house or at the back of their house under bale-bale (huts) just by the water. There’s a warm atmosphere about the island and the close-knit community work hard and help each other out. Many of the older men on the island are fishermen or farmers, and other Indonesians often will comment that people here speak much louder because they are seafarers and live close to the ocean. The people of WangiWangi love to welcome visitors and travellers will quickly recognise their very generous and friendly nature. Yes: Oho No: Tidak Eat: Manga Drink: Moro’u Fish: Ikan Rice: Bae Banana: Loka Delicious: Mbaka Great!: Leama! Where do you want to go? Fila di umpa? I want to go to… Fila di…
In sailing, the Bajo tribe only know the directions North, West, and South. This navigation system forms a triangle. The South includes East, Northeast and Southeast. Bajo Now In Kaledupa island, Bajo tribe can be found in Sampela and Mantingola village. All of their shelters are on the ocean, so that they have floating houses. A boat is needed in order to reach Sampela village, while in Mantingola village there is a bridge that connects the land to the floating houses.
A Closer Look at the Bajo Tribe
Bajo tribe is a tribe that has a strong custom toward the ocean life. Bajo tribe can be found in many countries such as Hong Kong, Japan, Malaysia, Madagascar, the Philippines, and Indonesia. In Indonesia, the Bajo tribe can be found in Wakatobi, that is, in the islands of Wangi-Wangi and Kaledupa. History For generations, the Bajo tribe have been famous for being very skilled fishermen and seafarers. Even before James Cook founded Australia, the Bajo tribe had sailed to this continent. In the past, the
Kabuenga (Ayunan) Kabuenga is an annual event held predominately for the youth of Wakatobi. The purpose of this event is to allow one to find their soul mate, or perfect partner. According to traditional beliefs, it is understood that anyone who participates in this festival will find their soul-mate in a short time. The process of Kabuenga is for partaking males and females to don traditional attire native to Wakatobi and gather in a large open area. The women are lined up and hold a tray of drinks to offer the males usually ranging from anything to syrup mixes to soft drinks. The males will then approach as many of these women as they wish, and upon meeting exchange 10k rupiah or a small gift or symbol of affection for a glass of drink and then strike conversation to determine compatibility. The women can have multiple approaches made to them and receive limitless gifts but after this process has occurred they then wander through the masses and find the male they found most intriguing and compatible. Then if all is in agreeance they will walk together to this heavily decorated traditional swing where they will sit and swing together to announce their partnership.
Bangka Mbule-mbule Bangka Mbule-mbule is the annual tradition of the Bajo people of Wakatobi. The purpose of Bangka Mbule-mbule is to make lavish offerings for the ruler, god or goddess of the sea to guarantee safe passage when travelling on the water and also to protect their homes from storms. The lavish offerings are made offshore and some are floated into the sea. Karia festival The Karia festival which translates into festival of circumcision is an annual event that takes place throughout Wakatobi. Now the event on occurrence gathers a number of about 70 Islamic boys between the ages of 7 and 8 together at 8am in an elected household. The household dons the title ‘Sombonga’ this is where the festival will begin and also finish. The children are organized a company of 3 people, 2 to carry them using traditional shoulder mounted boards, like stretchers that are decorated with a variety of different ornaments and threads, and 1 other to carry an umbrella to shelter the child from the sun. At 9am the boys wear traditional attire and are carried through the street nearby the Sombonga, and then at 11am they return to their homes for the circumcision to take place. The street parade is a rite of passage in Islamic religion to symbolize a coming of age and to accept the responsibility of all things done in the name of Islam. At 3pm all reconvene at the Sombonga for an array of Pencak Silat (an Indonesian martial arts form) demonstrations. Posepa (menendang) Desa Lia Posepa (menendang) Desa Lia is an annual event , that takes place in the village of the Lia people and is a lavish festival to mark the end of the fasting rituals Idul Fitri and Idul Adha in Islamic tradition.