Ten top budget eats in Venice

Da Luca e Fred ... just 80 cents for a glass of house wine and tasty food to suit tight budgets. Photograph: John Brunton Finding good, reasonably-priced restaurants in the Serenisssima is never easy at any time of the year, and prices tend to soar during carnival (13-24 February). But believe it or not, there are still locales where you can have a meal for less than 15 (14) - as long as you follow a few golden rules. Have your main meal at lunchtime when prices are much lower, then bar hop at night eating snacks. Arrive for lunch at midday sharp, as this is when the day's pasta is served and portions never last long. Ask if "coperto" (cover), and "servizio", service charge are included, and be sure to know how much everything costs if you decide to order extras like bottled water, coffee and a carafe of wine.

1. Arte della Pizza

There are a host of takeaway pizza joints around Venice, but at most the food is average, if not lousy. Arte della Pizza is the big exception - an immensely popular hole-in-the-wall address hidden away off the Strada Nova, the main drag that runs from the train station to Rialto. There are half a dozen stools and the place is always packed to bursting, not surprising when a whopping pizza costs around 6 and a big slice only 1.50. Remember though that they close early at 9pm. Calle dell'Aseo, 1896 Cannaregio, +39 (0)41 524 6520, closed Monday

2. Taverna del Campiello Remer

This rustic taverna has a fantastic courtyard looking over the Grand Canal, and is absolutely the real deal for cheap eats, as long as you time your visit to perfection. The happy hour aperitivo runs from 5.30pm to 7.30pm, and although drinks seem expensive at 4, you have to see the mega buffet that is served at the same time huge plates of smoked ham, salami, salads and either a steaming risotto or pasta. At lunch you have to shell out 20, but be prepared for an all-you-can-eat feast - soup, choice of pastas, vegetables, two or three main dishes, desserts and wine, all included. Campiello del Remer, 5701 Cannaregio, +39 (0)41 522 8789, closed Wednesday

3. Al Muro

Definitely the place to come at Saturday lunchtime. The Rialto fish market is where all of Venice comes to do its weekend shopping, and although there are dozens of bars to choose from for a drink, the favourite spot to eat is the trendy Muro. The chef sets up a stall in the middle of the Campo and the genial Carlo and Davide serve up heaped plates of the dish of the day, which could be a delicious fritto misto, wild mushroom risotto or tasty goulash, priced at 7-10 with a glass of wine included. Campo Bella Vienna, 222 San Polo, closed Sunday lunchtime

4. Bacaro Lounge

The biggest challenge of Venice's carnival has to be finding somewhere reasonably-priced to eat around the Piazza San Marco, where every restaurant is intent on cashing in on tourists as much as possible. A surprising secret is the trendy bar/restaurant Bacaro Lounge, set in an old cinema and owned by the Benetton family. At the bar, you'll see a chic fashion crowd wearing Prada and Gucci, but also rough and ready gondoliers who come here at noon for the "piatto del giorno" - anything from spaghetti with pomodoro or roast pork - priced at 10. Salizzada San Moise, 1345 San Marco, tel; +39 (0)41 296 0687, open every day

5. Da Luca e Fred

This old-fashioned osteria is a fun, noisy rendezvous for local Venetians, where a glass of house wine sets you back only 80 cents. A crowd gathers at the bar at midday when the chef sends out plates of the dish of the day that are quickly snapped up, not surprising when the cost is 6. And their "menu turistico" is even more honest lasagne followed by fritto misto and a salad for 13.50 with no hidden extras like cover charge. Rio Tera San Leonardo, 1518 Cannaregio, +39 (0)41 716 170, closed Wednesday

6. Orange

Santa Margherita is the nearest Venice gets to a funky nightlife scene, with a dozen bars serving lethal "spritz al bitter" - Campari cocktails for 2 till the early hours. The hippest locale is the the Orange lounge bar, and from Monday to Wednesday, they have just started a buffet happy hour from 6.30pm-9pm. The price of a Spritz goes up to 3, but there is a big buffet with tramezzini sandwiches, polpette meatballs, a hot dish of pasta, fruits and desserts. A big party is planned for the last night of carnival, Mardi Gras, with an in-house DJ. Campo Santa Margherita, 3054 Dorsoduro, +39 (0)41 523 4740, open every day.

7. Rosticceria San Bartolomeo

Tucked away under ancient arches just by the bustling San Bartolomeo square, the Rosticceria is basically an old-fashioned self-service cafeteria, dishing up excellent and inexpensive comfort food - a "primo" for 6, followed by roast chicken, or "baccala mantecato", the traditional creamy salt cod. For once, prices are exactly the same at night as for lunch. There is a more formal restaurant upstairs, but there you'll end up paying a cover charge. For visitors renting an apartment, this can be a great address for buying ready-cooked meals (10-20% cheaper for take away). Sottoportego della Bissa, 5424/a San Marco, +39 (0)41 522 3569, open every day

8. Food & Art

The island of Giudecca has the best views over Venice, and is also a centre for budget travellers. This is where the city's Youth Hostel is located, but it is doubtful if even the most ardent traveller gets to discover the quirky Food & Art. This is officially a "mensa", a canteen, catering for workmen at the Giudecca's boatyards. But anyone is allowed into this friendly self-service locale, which also doubles as an art gallery. Full lunch with wine is priced at 11.50, while a simple pasta costs 5.50 Corte Cordami, 554 Giudecca, +39 (0)41 241 1413, open Monday - Friday, lunchtime only

9. Al Nono Risorto

Although Nono Risorto has a long menu filled with traditional trattoria specialities like spaghetti with black squid ink sauce and grilled Adriatic fish, ordering from this can mean an expensive meal, so what the locals come here for is the pizza. Even in the evenings, a huge pizza smothered with gorgonzola and speck (smoky Tyrolean ham) and "un quarto di vino della casa" costs less than 15. And there is a lovely garden courtyard, which is covered and heated in winter. Sottoportego de Siora Bettina, 2337 Santa Croce, +39 (0)41 524 1660, closed Wednesday

10. Trattoria Alle Due Gondolette

You'll need a good map to track down this family trattoria, hidden away on a pretty canal in the Cannaregio neighbourhood. Only open for lunch, their brilliant "cucina casalinga" set menu attracts workmen and tourists alike, with an all-in price of 12 for a pasta and hearty second course, wine and coffee, no cover charge. All along this canal you'll come upon honest osterie like Bea Vita (No 3082), Antica Mola (2800) and Al Timon (2754). Fondamenta delle Cappuccine, 3016 Cannaregio, +39 (0)41 717528, closed Saturday, Sunday and every evening