KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

SEWING BASICS

UTILITY STITCHES

APPENDIX

Basic Sewing and Mending Machine

Operation Manual
Please visit us at http://solutions.brother.com where you can get product support and answers to frequently asked questions (FAQs).

“IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS”
When using the sewing machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following: “Read all instructions before using.”

DANGER – To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1. The sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning. 2. Always unplug before changing the light bulb. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 watts.

WARNING – To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons: 1. Do not allow this machine to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the sewing machine is used by or near children. 2. Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual. 3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the sewing machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment. 4. Never operate the sewing machine with any of the air openings blocked. Keep the ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth. 5. Never drop or insert any object into any openings. 6. Do not use this machine outdoors. 7. Do not operate this machine where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered. 8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol “O” position which represents off, then remove plug from outlet. 9. Do not unplug by pulling on the cord. To unplug, grasp the plug and pull, not the cord. 10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle. 11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break. 12. Do not use a bent needle. 13. Do not pull or push the fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break. 14. Switch the sewing machine to the off, symbol “O” position when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading the needle, changing the needle, threading the bobbin, or changing the presser foot. 15. Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user service adjustments mentioned in this instruction manual. 16. This sewing machine is not intended for use by young children or impaired persons without supervision. 17. Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this sewing machine. “SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS” “This sewing machine is intended for household use.”

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FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY
If this machine is fitted with a three-pin non-rewireable BS plug then please read the following.

IMPORTANT
If the available socket outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, it should be cut off and an appropriate three-pin plug fitted. With alternative plugs an approved fuse must be fitted in the plug. NOTE The plug served from the main lead must be destroyed as a plug with bared flexible cords is hazardous if engaged in a live socket outlet. In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark, rating as marked on plug. Always replace the fuse cover, never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted. WARNING DO NOT CONNECT EITHER WIRE TO THE EARTH TERMINAL WHICH IS MARKED WITH THE LETTER ‘E’, BY THE EARTH SYMBOL OR COLOURED GREEN OR GREEN AND YELLOW. The wires in this main lead are coloured in accordance with the following code: Blue Brown Neutral Live

As the colours of the wiring in the main lead of this appliance may not correspond with the coloured markings identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows. The wire which is coloured blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter ‘N’ or coloured black or blue. The wire which is coloured brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter ‘L’ or coloured red or brown.

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CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING OUR MACHINE
To fully enjoy all the features, we suggest that you study the manual before using the machine.

PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE
For safe operation 1. Be sure to keep your eye on the needle while sewing. Do not touch the handwheel, thread takeup lever, needle, or other moving parts. 2. Remember to turn off the power switch and unplug the cord when: • Operation is completed • Replacing or removing the needle or any other parts • A power failure occurs during use • Maintaining the machine • Leaving the machine unattended 3. Do not store anything on the foot controller. 4. Plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use extension cords. For a longer service life 1. When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects. 2. Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used. 3. Do not drop or hit the machine. 4. Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation. For repair or adjustment In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer. For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.brother.com The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.

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............................................... 6 Needle and presser foot section ..................................................................................... 30 Sewing thick fabrics ........................................................................................................... 12 Lower threading ................................................ 10 Power supply ............................................................ 25 Selecting stitching ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 8 Flat bed attachment ................................... 31 Using a free-arm style ...................................................................................................................................................................................................... 31 Sewing stretch fabrics ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 11 THREADING THE MACHINE ......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................36 Making the buttonhole ................6 NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................... KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ............................................................................................................................................................ 30 Sewing thin fabrics ...................... 36 Adjusting buitching stitching ...................................................................... 26 Starting to sew .................................. 28 Thread tension ..................................................................................................... 30 Sewing curves ............. 27 Sewing in reverse ......................................................................................................................12 Winding the bobbin ............... 18 REPLACING THE NEEDLE ....................................... 22 REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................—————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— CONTENTS 1................................................ 20 Replacing the needle .................................................................................19 Needle precautions ................................................................ 8 ACCESSORIES .................................................................. 35 BUTTONHOLE SEWING ........................................................................................................... 28 USEFUL SEWING TIPS ............................................................ 10 Foot controller ... 20 Sewing with a twin needle (Option) ......... 24 2............................................................................. 30 Changing the sewing direction ................................................................................................................... 16 Drawing up the lower thread ..................................................................................................................................................................................... 38 Button sewing .................................................................................................................................................................................................................25 SEWING ......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................9 USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ...... 11 Steadying the machine ................................................................................................. 32 Basic stitching ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. UTILITY STITCHES .............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 23 Removing the presser foot holder .................................. 14 Upper threading ...................................................................................23 Replacing the presser foot ................................................................................. 19 Checking the needle .............................................................................................................................................................................................. 19 Selecting the needle depending on the thread and fabric types ..............................................................................................................................................................................................10 Power supply precautions ................................................................................................................................................ 33 Blind hem stitching ...................................................................... 38 4 .............................................................................................................................................................................. 30 Trial sewing ................................................................................................................... 32 Zigzag stitches ....................32 USEFUL STITCHES ..................................... 31 3.............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. SEWING BASICS .................................... 33 Darning ...................................................................................................... 6 The main parts .......25 General sewing procedure ........................

.................................. 47 Repacking the machine ...............................................................................45 Oiling .............................................................................................................................................................................. 43 Shell tuck stitching ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................45 MAINTENANCE ........................................................................................................................ 43 Elastic stitching .......................................................................................................................................................... 45 Cleaning the machine surface ................................................................ 41 DECORATIVE STITCHING .................................................... 44 4...................................................................................................................................................... 46 Cleaning the shuttle race .............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. MONOGRAMMING AND EMBROIDERING ........................................ZIPPER INSERTION .........................................................................................................................50 INDEX ..43 Gathering ............................................................ 41 Appliqués ..................................................... 53 5 .......................... 48 Bobbin case tension adjustment .................................................................................................................................. APPENDIX ............................ 40 APPLIQUÉ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 45 Changing the bulb ...................................................................... 46 Cleaning the feed dogs ............................................................... 41 Monogramming and embroidering ............................................... 48 TROUBLESHOOTING ...................................................................................................................

c Thread take-up lever (page 16) d Upper tension control dial (page 28) This controls the tension of the upper thread.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— 1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS The main parts a Buttonhole fine-adjusting screw (page 38) Turn the buttonhole fine-adjusting screw to adjust buttonhole stitching when it is not uniform. e Flat bed attachment with accessory storage (page 8 and 31) f Reverse sewing lever (page 28) Press and hold down the reverse sewing lever to sew in the opposite direction. b Pattern selection dial (page 26) Turn the pattern selection dial to select the number of the stitch that you want to use. 6 .

XD0852-021 (Korea). p Foot controller (page 11) Use the foot controller to control the sewing speed and to start and stop sewing. XC7456-321 (U. New Zealand).K. i Bobbin winder (page 12) The bobbin winder winds thread onto the bobbin for use as the lower thread.). XC7438-321 (Russia) 7 . XE0629-001 (Australia. Part code. n Presser foot lever (page 16) Use the presser foot lever to raise and lower the presser foot. m Thread cutter (page 28) Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them. which also supplies power to this machine.1 g Built-in handle h Spool pin (page 12 and 16) The spool pin holds the spool of thread. o Bobbin winding pre-tension disc/thread guide (page 12 and 16) The thread guide/bobbin winding pre-tension disc is used when winding the thread onto the bobbin and threading the machine. l Foot controller jack/jack Insert the foot controller plug into the foot controller jack. XC7438-321 (220/240V Area). XC7359-021 (110/120V Area). k Main power/sewing light switch (page 10) Use this switch to turn on and off the main power and sewing light. j Handwheel Use the handwheel to manually raise and lower the needle.

8 .KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Needle and presser foot section Flat bed attachment The accessories are stored in a compartment inside the flat bed attachment. c Presser foot (Zigzag) The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the fabric as the sewing takes place. d Feed dogs The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction. f Shuttle hook g Shuttle cover Open the shuttle cover to set the bobbin. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the selected stitching. a Flat bed attachment b Storage compartment a Presser foot holder assembly The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder assembly. e Needle plate The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing straight seams. and then store the bag inside the compartment. b Presser foot screw Use the presser foot screw to hold the presser foot holder assembly in place. a toward you. h Bobbin case i Needle j Needle bar thread guide k Needle clamp screw Use the needle clamp screw to hold the needle in place. and be lost or damaged. If the accessories are not in a bag. they may fall out. Note ● Put the accessories in the bag. and then pull the flat bed Lift the bottom of the flat bed attachment attachment out to remove it.

1 Note (For U.A. 4.S. 5. N This foot controller can be used on the following machine models: LS-2220/2720/1520/2125/2125i. No. / Canada Others X59369-321 X59370-021 XE2137-001 XA3442-121 No. 3. 75/11 1 needle 90/14 1 needle 100/16 1 needle 7. 5 6 7 8 Part Name Bobbin (3) Needle set Screwdriver Extra spool pin Part Code U. 8. (Part number: 138135-122) 1. only) ● Foot controller: Model KD-1902. ● The screw of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer.A. We have designed these accessories to help you be able to carry out most sewing tasks. 6.S. / Canada Others XA5539-151 SA156 129583-021 X55467-021 130920-021 9 .ACCESSORIES The following accessories are stored in the flat bed attachment. (Part code: 132730-122) ● A replacement for the factory-installed presser foot is available through your authorized dealer. 1 2 3 4 Part Name Buttonhole foot “A” Zipper foot “I” Button sewing foot “M” Darning plate Part Code U. 2.S.A.

● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances: • When you are away from the machine • After using the machine • When the power fails during use • When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection • During electrical storms CAUTION ● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them. always turn off the main power first. The sewing lamp comes on when the machine is turned on. ● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. modified. Power supply a between the foot controller and the power b Set the main power switch to “I”. or lead to fire or electric shock. electric shock. Fire or electric shock may result. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Then. WARNING ● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. into the jack on the machine. ● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. pulled. Insert the foot controller plug. Do not subject the cord to heat. forcefully bent. damaged. or bundled. Always grasp the plug to remove it from the outlet. These things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged. Otherwise a fire may result. located supply plug on the cord. Electric shock may result. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord. a Foot controller plug 10 . Using other power sources may result in fire. ● Do not allow the power cord to be cut. take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use. twisted.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE Power supply precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply. or damage to the machine. ● When unplugging the machine. insert the power supply plug into a wall outlet.

c switch to “ To turn off the machine. Doing so could cause a fire or an electric shock. When you press harder. only) ● This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). ● A new sewing machine or one that has not been in use for a long period of time should be oiled as described on page 45. When you take your foot off the foot controller. To reduce the risk of electric shock. turn off the sewing machine and unplug the power supply cord. (For U. Foot controller CAUTION ● When connecting the foot controller. the machine will stop. Steadying the machine If the sewing machine has been placed on an uneven surface. The sewing lamp goes off when the machine is turned off. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet. If it still does not fit. Do not modify the plug in any way. 1 Slower Faster You should make sure that nothing is placed on the foot controller when the machine is not in use. 11 . this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. be sure to wipe off any excess oil. Note ● If a power outage occurs while the sewing machine is being operated. CAUTION ● Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to build up on the foot controller.A. When you press the foot controller down lightly. set the main power ”. reverse the plug. turn the rubber cushion in the right-front corner of the base plate to adjust its height until the sewing machine is stable. the machine’s speed will increase. After oiling. When restarting the sewing machine. be sure to turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent the machine from accidentally being started.S. the machine will run at a low speed. follow the necessary procedure to correctly operate the machine. contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet.

until the spring on the shaft slides into the groove of the bobbin. b Other models d and slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right. SFB: XA5539-151) that have been designed for this sewing machine.5 mm (7/16 inches) This model a then put a spool of thread on this pin. and Put the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft Pass the thread around the pre-tension disk. Turn the bobbin clockwise. Actual size 11. c the bobbin from the inside of the bobbin. the thread may tangle on the spool pin. the machine will not work properly. ● We designed the bobbin that comes with this machine. 1 Pulling it in as far as possible. Pass the end of the thread through the hole on a Spring on the shaft b Groove of the bobbin e Turn on the sewing machine. Using other bobbins may cause damage to the machine. a Pre-tension disk b Bobbin winder shaft c Bobbin CAUTION ● Only use bobbins (part code: SA156. by hand. Pull up the spool pin as far as possible. Only use the bobbin that comes with this machine or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156. If you use bobbins from other models. CAUTION ● If the spool of thread is not in the right place.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— THREADING THE MACHINE Winding the bobbin This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin. 12 . SFB: XA5539-151).

i spinning slowly. when the thread runs low it may tangle around the bobbin and cause the needle to break. ● The needle bar does not move when you slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right. If you do not cut the thread completely.f press the foot controller to wind the thread While holding the end of the thread. gently j to the left and remove the bobbin. slide the bobbin winder shaft around the bobbin a few times. and the bobbin is wound. take your foot off the foot When the bobbin seems full and begins controller. CAUTION ● Make sure you follow the instructions carefully. ● Winding the bobbin improperly may cause the thread tension to loosen. this is not a malfunction. 1 CAUTION g Trim the excess thread above the bobbin. Memo ● When the sewing machine is started or the handwheel is turned after winding the thread around the bobbin. h 1 a Wound evenly b Wound poorly 2 Press the foot controller to start. breaking the needle and resulting in injury. Then stop the machine. the machine will make a clicking sound. 13 . Cut the thread.

If the thread unrolls in the wrong direction. a the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) Raise the needle to its highest position by turning and raise the presser foot lever. Use only the enclosed bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156. Actual size 11. and then insert the bobbin Unwind about 10 cm (4 inches) of thread into the bobbin case. SFB: XA5539-151). ● The bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. the machine will not operate correctly. a Flat bed attachment b Shuttle cover 1 a Wound evenly b Wound poorly 2 c toward you and pulling it out from the shuttle Remove the bobbin case by pulling its latch race.5 mm (7/16 inches) This model Other models a Bobbin case latch d from a full bobbin. If bobbins from other models are used. breaking the needle and resulting in injury. Open the shuttle cover behind the flat bed Lower threading Install the bobbin wound with thread. 14 . • Only use bobbins that were designed to be used with this machine. it may cause the thread tension to be incorrect or break the needle. If you accidentally step on the foot controller and the machine starts to sew.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— b attachment at the front of the machine. CAUTION ● Winding the bobbin improperly may cause the thread tension to loosen. CAUTION ● Make sure you turn the power off while threading the machine. CAUTION ● Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread unrolls in the right direction. you could be injured.

fully insert release the latch.e and to the left. CAUTION ● Make sure that the bobbin case is properly placed back into the machine. and then Hold the bobbin case by the latch. 15 . as shown below. down the delivery eye under the tension spring. If it is incorrectly installed. until it enters Pull the trailing thread through the slot. 1 a Tension spring f the bobbin case into the shuttle race. it will fall out from the shuttle when the machine starts to sew. • Make sure the bobbin case finger fits into the notch at the top of the shuttle race. a Bobbin case finger b Notch g Close the shuttle cover.

or is set incorrectly. • If the needle is not correctly raised. Pull up the spool pin as far as possible. d guides: the rear one first. Otherwise. the sewing machine can not be threaded. a b c d Spool pin Thread guide (rear) Thread guide (front) Thread take-up lever CAUTION ● Make sure you thread the machine properly. Be sure to turn the handwheel before threading the sewing machine. a Presser foot lever e tension control dial from the right to the left Feed the upper thread through both thread Pull the thread down and around the upper so the thread picks up the thread check spring.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Upper threading Set the upper thread and thread the needle. Raise the needle by turning the handwheel b toward you (counterclockwise) to raise the thread take-up lever to its highest position. the thread may tangle on the spool pin and cause the needle to break. a lever. Raise the presser foot using the presser foot c then put a spool of thread on this pin. the thread could tangle and break the needle. a Upper tension control dial b Thread check spring 16 . and CAUTION ● If the spool of thread is in the wrong place. then the front one.

17 . ● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may cause sewing problems. 1 g lever from right to left. the upper thread cannot be wrapped around the thread take-up lever. then feeding the thread with your right hand. Make sure you raise the presser foot lever and the thread take-up lever before you feed the upper thread. h guide above the needle. Guide the thread through the thread take-up a Needle bar thread guide i out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread. Thread the needle from front to back and pull a Thread take-up lever a 5 cm (2 inches) Note ● If the thread take-up lever is lowered. Put the thread behind the needle bar thread The thread can easily be passed behind the needle bar thread guide by holding the thread in your left hand. While holding the thread as shown below.f pull it between the tension discs.

Pull on the upper thread to draw up the lower a Upper thread b Lower thread 18 . a Upper thread b Lower thread c thread. d threads and pull them toward the back of the Pull out about 15 cm (6 inches) of both machine under the presser foot.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Drawing up the lower thread a Lightly hold the end of the upper thread. turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise). a Upper thread b raise the needle to its highest position by While holding the end of the upper thread.

Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine. Silk. ● Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur. 90/14 (Supplied with Lightweight wool. Thin linen. Organza. Bent needles can easily break. Gingham. the thicker the thread. 75/11 Synthetics. Chiffon 65/9 Needle sizes Thread sizes Cotton: 80 Synthetic/ Polyester Long Fiber Fine Mercerized Cotton Cotton: 60-80 Silk: “A” Synthetic/ Polyester Long Fiber Mercerized 50 Cotton: 50-60 Silk: “A” Synthetic/ Polyester Long Fiber Mercerized 50-60 Cotton: 40-50 Mercerized Heavy Duty Polyester Long Fiber Cotton Wrapped Polyester Polyester Long Fiber Lightweight Voile. and the larger the needle number. Corduroy. Selecting the needle depending on the thread and fabric types The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. 19 . Taffeta. ● Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with transparent nylon threads.) Fine corduroy. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew. regardless of the fabric being sewn. Tweed. the thicker the needle. Canvas. Needle precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. 1 CAUTION ● Only use home sewing machine needles. ● A 75/11 needle is already installed when the sewing machine is purchased. Batiste Cotton. ● Never use bent needles. Poplin. Suitings. Double knit. possibly resulting in injury. Duck 100/16 Medium weight Heavyweight Knits Single knit. your machine. 90/14 (Ball point) Jersey. Sewing fabrics Very thin Fine tricot. Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous. Muslin Denim. Velvet. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below. Silk. Tricot Memo ● The smaller the thread number. Percale. Use the same size thread for the upper (spool) and lower (bobbin) threads. Pique. Satin. Linen. Fine lace.REPLACING THE NEEDLE This section provides information on sewing machine needles. Gabardine.

b turning the handwheel toward you 1 2 Raise the needle to its highest position by (counterclockwise). the stitching may be uneven or puckered or there may be skipped stitches. Before using the needle. a Flat side b Needle type marking ■ Correct needle c Lower the presser foot lever. Checking the needle Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous since the needle may break while the machine is being operated. Replacing the needle Replace the needle as described below. In addition. a Turn off the sewing machine. thread and needle is not correct. otherwise injuries may occur if the foot controller is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing. a Presser foot lever 1 a Flat surface 20 . If the combination of the fabric. be sure to turn off the sewing machine. Use the screwdriver and a needle that has been determined to be straight according to the instructions in “Checking the needle” . 1 a Flat surface ■ Incorrect needle If the distance between the needle and the flat surface is not even. Do not use a bent needle. particularly when sewing thick fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11). thread and needle combinations are shown in the table on the previous page. place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even. CAUTION ● Before replacing the needle. the needle may bend or break.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— CAUTION ● The appropriate fabric. the needle is bent.

(If the needle clamp screw is loosened too much. ■ Installing the needle clamp If the needle clamp is removed. e rear of the machine. a Needle stopper a b c d Needle bar Needle holder Needle clamp screw Align 21 . Note ● The needle can be removed by simply loosening the needle clamp screw about one turn. a Needle clamp screw b Needle bar thread guide c Needle bar b with the end of the needle bar. slide the needle clamp screw is on the right side and the needle bar thread guide is at the bottom. otherwise certain parts of the sewing machine may be damaged. and then screw counterclockwise to remove the needle. a Screwdriver b Needle clamp screw • Do not apply strong force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw. the needle clamp (which holds the needle) may fall off. a the needle clamp onto the needle bar so that As seen from the front of the machine. insert the needle until it With the flat side of the needle toward the touches the needle stopper. f use the screwdriver to tighten the needle While holding the needle with your left hand. Therefore. clamp screw by turning it clockwise.) 1 Install the twin needle in the same way. do not loosen the needle clamp screw too much. and then Align the bottom edge of the needle holder tighten the needle clamp screw. CAUTION ● Be sure to insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with the screwdriver.d use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp Hold the needle with your left hand. follow the procedure below to attach it to the needle bar. otherwise the needle may break or damage may result.

Other needles could break. ● Do not sew with bent needles. be sure to select an appropriate stitch (straight stitches 6 through 10 and zigzag stitch 2). be sure to raise the needle before turning the fabric. Use the thread from the first spool to thread The path for threading the machine to the needle bar thread guide is the same as for normally threading the machine (for a single needle). the machine. ● Slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. The stitches available for twin-needle sewing are straight stitches 6 through 10 and zigzag stitch 2. See page 16 for more details.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing with a twin needle (Option) We have designed your machine so you can sew with the optional twin needle and two top threads. b Put the extra spool pin in the hole on the top of Attach the extra spool pin. b Right needle thread passes in front of the needle bar thread guide. You can use the same color or two different colors of thread for making decorative stitches. Use the thread from the second spool to thread The path for threading the machine to the thread take-up lever is the same as for normally threading the machine (for a single needle). ● When using the twin needle. The needle could break and injure you. f Do not pass the thread behind the needle bar Thread the right needle from front to back. a Left needle thread passes through the needle bar thread guide. CAUTION ● Use only twin needles that have been made for this machine (part code: X57521-021). c Needle bar thread guide a First spool b Second spool c the machine to the needle bar thread guide. See page 16 for more details. e the machine to the thread take-up lever. ● When changing the sewing direction. If the fabric is turned while the needle is lowered. and damage the machine. otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged. ■ Twin needle threading a Attach the twin needle in the same way as a Attach the twin needle. If the needle hits the presser foot. the needle may bend or break. Put the second spool of thread onto the extra spool pin. d Thread the left needle from front to back. single needle (page 20). 22 . the needle may bend or break. thread guide.

a Presser foot lever a Presser foot lever The presser foot is attached. Using other any presser feet may cause an accident or injury. d presser foot holder to release the presser foot. Press the black button at the back of the If the sewing machine has been turned on. b turning the handwheel toward you e so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the Place a different presser foot below the holder shank in the holder. Raise the needle to its highest position by (counterclockwise). 23 . a turn it off. I. the machine will start and you may be injured. the needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break. If you use the wrong presser foot. 1 Replacing the presser foot Replace the presser foot as described below. a Presser foot holder b Shank c Pin f presser foot pin snaps into the shank in the Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the presser foot holder. ● Only use presser feet that have been designed to be used with this machine. etc. otherwise injuries may occur if the foot controller is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing. and may cause injury. Position the presser foot so the letter indicating the presser foot type (A. a Black button b Presser foot holder CAUTION ● Before replacing the presser foot. c Raise the presser foot lever. If you leave the power on and step on the controller. be sure to turn off the sewing machine.) is positioned to be read.REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT CAUTION ● Always turn off the power before you change the presser foot. ● Always use the correct presser foot for the stitch pattern you have chosen.

a Screwdriver b Presser foot holder c Presser foot holder screw 24 . refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 23). Raise the presser foot lever to check that the ■ Attaching the presser foot holder a left side of the presser bar. Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot a Screwdriver b Presser foot holder c Presser foot holder screw Note ● If the presser foot holder is not correctly installed. Use the screwdriver to remove the presser foot holder. b holder screw. a Presser foot holder b Presser bar b your right hand. the thread tension will be incorrect. Align the presser foot holder with the lower- Removing the presser foot holder Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that does not use the presser foot holder. ■ Removing the presser foot holder a Remove the presser foot.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— g presser foot is securely attached. such as the quilting foot. and then tighten the screw Hold the presser foot holder in place with using the screwdriver in your left hand. • For details.

Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch. Position the fabric. For details on replacing the presser foot. otherwise injuries may occur.2 SEWING BASICS SEWING Basic sewing operations are described below. Bent needles can easily break. refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27). ● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing. keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel. 1 Turn on the machine. 4 Start sewing. 25 . ● Never use bent needles. Turn on the sewing machine. 2 Select the stitch. refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 23). 3 Attach the presser foot. possibly resulting in injuries. cut the threads. For details on turning on the machine. refer to “Power supply” (page 10). otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may break. 2 CAUTION ● While the machine is in operation. When sewing is finished. pay special attention to the needle location. For details on selecting a stitch. For details on starting to sew. Before operating the sewing machine. read the following precautions. refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 26). otherwise the needle may break or bend. and then start sewing. Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn. ● Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins. General sewing procedure Follow the basic procedures below to sew. In addition.

35. aPattern selection dial Number on dial Stitch name 4-step automatic buttonhole b Pattern ac d Page 1 36 2 Zigzag stitch 3 Zigzag stitch 32.SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Selecting stitching Turning the stitch selection dial in either direction. 43 7 Straight stitch (Left needle position) Stretch blind Stitch 33 8 33 9 Shell tuck stitch 43 10 Elastic stitch 44 26 . 33. select the desired stitch. 41 4 Zigzag stitch 5 Zigzag (satin) stitch 6 Straight stitch (Center needle position) Select the desired length. 40.

The machine starts sewing. a Presser foot lever d the thread under the presser foot. pass pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine. h Take your foot off the foot controller. c Raise the presser foot lever. Raise the presser foot lever. and then Place the fabric under the presser foot. f Lower the presser foot lever. i turning the handwheel toward you a 5 cm (2 inches) j Raise the needle to its highest position by (counterclockwise). 27 . a Presser foot lever g Slowly press down on the foot controller. turn the handwheel While holding the end of the thread and the Turn on the sewing machine. toward you (counterclockwise) with your right hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching.Starting to sew a e fabric with your left hand. The machine stops sewing. 2 b turning the handwheel toward you Raise the needle to its highest position by (counterclockwise).

a Thread cutter Sewing in reverse Reverse sewing is used to lock the threads at the end of the seam or wherever reinforcement is needed. the upper thread may be too tight. a while sewing. ● We recommend you do a test sample on a scrap of fabric before you start to sew. b lever. Memo ● Before beginning to change tension adjustments make sure the upper thread and bobbin are inserted correctly. 28 . Note ● If the bobbin thread was incorrectly inserted. 1 2 3 a b c d Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Press and hold down the reverse sewing lever 4 ■ Upper tension is too tight Loops appear on the surface of the fabric. To sew forward. You may need to adjust it when you change fabric or thread. cutter on the back of the presser foot bar to cut them. In this case.SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— k and then pass the threads through the thread Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine. refer to “Lower threading” (page 14) and reinsert the bobbin. release the reverse sewing 1 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on surface of fabric 2 3 5 4 Solution Reduce the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a lower number. ■ Correct tension Correct tension is important as too much or too little tension will weaken your seams or cause puckers on your fabric. Thread tension The thread tension will affect the quality of your stitches.

For most sewing applications. 4 Solution Increase the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a higher number. 29 . Note ● The bobbin thread tension has been adjusted at the factory for general use. be sure to return the screw to its original position before the next time that the machine is used. ■ Bobbin tension is too loose Loops may appear on the surface of the fabric when sewing thin fabric with thin thread. In addition. refer to “Upper threading” (page 16) and rethread. no adjustment is needed. the upper thread may be too loose. 1 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on surface of fabric 2 3 5 1 5 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on wrong side of fabric 4 2 2 3 Solution Reduce the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a lower number. In this case.■ Upper tension is too loose Loops appear on the wrong side of the fabric. If the problem persists. Note ● If the upper thread was incorrectly threaded. increase the tension in the bobbin by turning the screw clockwise with a small screwdriver. Be sure not to turn the screw more than one full turn.

and then slightly change the sewing direction to sew around the curve. When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag stitch. Lower the presser foot lever and continue CAUTION ● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inches) thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much force. For the trial sewing. the needle may bend or break. Sewing thick fabrics ■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot. Trial sewing A trial piece of fabric should be sewn since. and then turn the b fabric. CAUTION ● When using the twin needle. Sewing curves Stop sewing. If the needle was raised. 30 . If the fabric is turned while the needle is lowered. depending on the type of fabric and stitching being sewn. and check the thread tension and stitch length and width. Raise the presser foot lever. Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot. c sewing.SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— USEFUL SEWING TIPS Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. lower the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise). When the stitching reaches a corner. select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain a finer stitch. the needle may bend or break. the desired results may not be achieved. perform the trial sewing under the same conditions that will be used with your project. Since the results differ depending on the type of stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn. raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position. be sure to raise the needle before changing the sewing direction. use a piece of fabric and thread that are the same as those used for your project. Changing the sewing direction a sewing machine. stop the Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). Refer to these tips when sewing your project.

Sewing thin fabrics When sewing thin fabrics. baste the pieces of fabric together. the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. 2 a Stabilizer material or paper Sewing stretch fabrics First. a Basting Using a free-arm style Free-arm sewing is convenient for sewing tubular and hard-to-reach areas. place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. and then pull the flat bed attachment out to remove it. tear off any excess paper. a Flat bed attachment 31 . and then sew without stretching the fabric. If this occurs. To change your machine to the free-arm style. When you have finished sewing. lift the bottom of the flat bed attachment toward you.

refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 26). Number on dial 2 Zigzag stitch 3 Zigzag stitch 4 Zigzag stitch 5 Overcasting and attaching appliqués with the decorative satin stitches. Zigzag (satin) stitch a Select a stitch. Memo ● When sewing with a zigzag stitch. Overcasting and attaching appliqués. the needle may bend or break. 32 . refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27). refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27). CAUTION ● Slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. Select the desired width. Stitch name Application c Start sawing. Lower the needle into the fabric at the b beginning of the stitching. cut the thread. use straight stitches at the beginning and end of the zigzag stitch for reinforcement. d When sewing is finished. • For details. • For details. If the needle hits the presser foot. They are also useful for sewing stretch materials. • For details.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— 3 UTILITY STITCHES USEFUL STITCHES Zigzag stitches You can use the zigzag stitches to join together seams and finish them in one operation.

and position) sewing gathers or darning. like the hem of a pair of trousers. • For details. Two stitches are available for basic stitching. a Right side of fabric b Bottom side b hem. basic (Center needle stitching. • For details. <Seen from the side> a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric 33 . • For details. 3 Select a stitch. sewing gathers or pintucks. Straight stitch (Left needle position) Basic stitching.Basic stitching Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. 7 a Reverse the skirt or pants. Number on dial 8 Stitch name Stretch blind Stitch Application Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics. cut the thread. Attaching Straight stitch zippers. and press. without the stitch showing. a b Baste or pin together the fabric pieces. refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 26). etc. Number on dial 6 Stitch name Application Blind hem stitching You can use the Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edge of a project. etc. c beginning of the stitching. e When sewing is finished. refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27). d Lower the needle into the fabric at the Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the Start sewing. refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27).

g free-arm sewing possible. make sure that the fabric feeds correctly. Unfold the edge of fabric. Remove the flat bed attachment and make • For details on free-arm sewing. Fold back the fabric inside along the basting. e fabric with the wrong side facing up. h arm. Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the and then start sewing. <Seen from the side> a b c d Wrong side of fabric Edge of fabric Basting 5 mm (3/16 inches) a Arm 34 . refer to“Using a free-arm style” (page 31).UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— c (3/16 inches) from the edge of the fabric. and position the <Seen from the side> <Seen from the side> a b c d e d Wrong side of fabric Right side of fabric Edge of fabric Basting stitching 5 mm (3/16 inches) a Wrong side of fabric b Basting c Edge of fabric f Select the stretch blind stitch (8). and Use a chalk to mark on the fabric about 5 mm then baste it.

i catches the fold of the hem. Place the fabric to be darned under the for reinforcement. Remove the basting stitching and turn the k fabric right side up. b Select the desired length for straight stitch (6). and then remove both the aNeedle bNeedle drop point cFold of hem dWrong side of fabric j Place the darning plate on the needle plate as presser foot and presser foot holder assembly. 3 Sew along the fold of the hem. basic (Center needle stitching. c presser foot together with a fabric underlay a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric d with your hands. make sure that both threads are the same color as the fabric. For invisible stitching. Darning Reinforce points that will be subject to strain. Number on dial 6 Stitch name Application Attaching Straight stitch zippers. and position) sewing gathers or darning. etc. and then lower Position the fabric so that the needle slightly the presser foot lever. Stop sewing when the portion to be darned is 35 . alternately drawing the Start sewing while gently moving the fabric fabric away and pulling it toward you. a shown below. e filled with parallel stitching.

Sew 5 to 6 stitches. Number on dial 1 4-step automatic buttonhole Buttonholes on medium weight fabrics. 36 . Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back. a the buttonhole on the fabric. d that the middle of the front chalk line is Position the fabric under the presser foot so directly in the center of the presser foot and aligned with the two red lines on the insert. Select stitch “a” of the 4-step automatic Making the buttonhole The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”. are indicated below. Stitch name Application Memo ● Before sewing buttonholes. check the stitch length and width by sewing a trial buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric. which is used for sewing buttonholes. a b c d Presser foot scale Pin Marks on buttonhole foot 5 mm (3/16 inches) a Mark on fabric b Red marks on the sliding insert e Start sewing. as shown below. place stabilizer material under the fablic. a Reinforcement stitching c buttonhole (1). Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot. Step Step a (Front end of button hole) Step b (Left side) Sewn portion Use chalk to mark the position and length of 1 Step c (Back end of button hole) a Marks on fabric Step d (Right side) b outside frame back until the sliding insert Attach buttonhole foot “A” and push the reaches the front of the outside frame. ● When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— BUTTONHOLE SEWING Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on.

otherwise injuries may result if the seam ripper slips. remove the 37 . turn the fabric 90 degrees counterclockwise. and then sew the length of the h chalk line. and then use a seam ripper to cut towards the pin and open the buttonhole. k CAUTION ● When opening the buttonhole with the seam ripper. 1 a Seam ripper b Pin Select stitch “c” (same as “a”) of the 4-step j automatic buttonhole (1). p stitching to prevent the stitching from being Insert a pin at the end of the buttonhole cut. and then raise the needle by Stop sewing when the needle is at the left side turning the handwheel toward you. and then raise the needle Stop sewing when the needle is at the right by turning the handwheel toward you. select the straight stitch (6 through 10) with the desired length. and then sew to the edge of the front bar tack. i side of the stitching. Sew the right side of the stitching sewn in step e. Do not use the seam ripper in any other way than how it is intended. Select stitch “b” of the 4-step automatic 2 Start sewing. o fabric. Sew 5 to 6 stitches.f of the stitching. l side of the stitching. and cut the thread. Raise the presser foot lever. For reinforcement. Select stitch “d” of the 4-step automatic n buttonhole until the needle reaches the Start sewing. g buttonhole (1). 3 Start sewing. m buttonhole (1). do not place your hands in the cutting path. and then raise the needle Stop sewing when the needle is at the right by turning the handwheel toward you.

a Buttonhole fine-adjusting screw Distance between holes 1. first sew the two holes closest to you. 3 or 4) according to the following table. Place a button between the presser foot and • When attaching four-hole buttons. Then. Number of dial 2 3 4 Attach the button sewing foot “M”. and then select the Measure the distance between the holes in the appropriate zigzag stitch (2. Button sewing Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. a button to be attached.6 mm (1/16 inches) 3. 38 . d the fabric. the stitching can adjusted with the buttonhole fine-adjusting screw. slide the button so that the needle goes into the two holes toward the rear of the sewing machine.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Adjusting buitching stitching If the stitching on the two sides of the buttonhole is not uniform.8 mm (3/16 inches) b ■ If the right side is too loose compared to the left side Use the enclosed large screwdriver to turn the buttonhole fine-adjusting screw in the direction. and then sew them in the same way. c shown below. Place the darning plate on the needle plate as ■ If the right side is too tight compared to the left side Use the enclosed large screwdriver to turn the buttonhole fine-adjusting screw in the + direction. Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.2 mm (1/8 inches) 4.

• After sewing for about 10 seconds at a low speed.e (counterclockwise) to check that the needle Turn the handwheel toward you correctly goes into the two holes of the button. press and hold down the reverse sewing lever to sew a few reinforcement stitches. Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching. 39 . h stitching to the wrong side of the fabric. Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine. be sure that the needle does not touch the button. g and then cut the upper and lower threads. f 3 Start sewing. return to step a. CAUTION ● When sewing. and Pull the upper thread at the end of the then tie it with the bobbin thread. leaving a length of 15 cm (6 inches). If the needle hits the button. otherwise the needle may bend or break.

b left or right pin of the zipper foot onto the Lower the presser foot lever and fix either the shank. basic (Center needle stitching. attach the shank to the right pin of the zipper foot. Attaching Straight stitch zippers. CAUTION ● Make sure the needle does not hit the zipper during sewing. release back of the presser foot. Fold the edge of the fabric 2 cm (3/4 inches) c and place the zipper under the folded section. If you choose a different stitch. You may also be injured. Number on dial 6 Stitch name Application d top on both sides.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— ZIPPER INSERTION You can use the zipper foot “I” to sew different types of zippers. When sewing the right side of the zipper. If the needle hits the zipper. CAUTION ● Turn the handwheel by hand to make sure the needle does not hit the presser foot before you start sewing. When sewing the left side of the zipper. and position) sewing gathers or darning. the needle may break and you may be injured. The needle should be Sew from the bottom of the zipper toward the positioned on the zipper side of the foot for best results. e the foot by pressing the button located at the To sew the opposite side of the zipper. etc. fit the zipper foot on the other side of the zipper and continue sewing using the other side notch. and can easily position it to the right or left side of the needle. the needle will hit the presser foot and break the needle. 40 . Lower the needle into the notch located either on the left or right side of the zipper foot. attach the shank to the left pin of the zipper foot. a Zipper foot “I” b Right pin for sewing the left side of the zipper c Left pin for sewing the right side of the zipper a Select the desired length for straight stitch (6).

Baste the cut design to the fabric. Select the desired width. Monogramming and embroidering a shown below. monogramming and embroidering. if necessary. a b CAUTION ● Be careful that the needle does not hit a pin during sewing. You may also be injured. Cut away any fabric that is left outside the Select a stitch. and then remove both the Place the darning plate on the needle plate as presser foot and presser foot holder assembly. Zigzag (satin) stitch Appliqués You can create an appliqué by cutting a different piece of fabric into a shape and using it as a decoration. Number on dial 2 Zigzag stitch 3 Zigzag stitch 4 Zigzag stitch 5 Overcasting and attaching appliqués with the decorative satin stitches. Overcasting and attaching appliqués. e Remove the basting. 41 . 3 Memo ● Make reinforcing straight stitches at the beginning and the end of stitching. MONOGRAMMING AND EMBROIDERING Zigzag stitches can be used for sewing appliqués. as the needle can break. Stitch name Application c Carefully sew around the edge of the design. d stitching.APPLIQUÉ.

d the surface of the fabric facing up inside the Put the fabric in the embroidery hoop with well. especially needles. ■ Embroidering Sew along the outline of the design by moving the hoop slowly. c design (for embroidering) on the surface of Draw the lettering (for monogramming) or the fabric. ■ Monogramming Sew the lettering at a constant speed by moving the hoop slowly. CAUTION ● Be sure to keep your fingers away from moving parts. sew to completely fill in the design with stitches by alternately sewing from the outline of the design to the inside and from the inside to the outline. fabric with the middle and third fingers. e the presser bar. 42 .UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— b Select a stitch. the stitches are shorter. When the hoop is moved slowly. the stitches are longer. and then sew a few stitches to reinforce the stitching. Place the project under the needle and lower f at the starting position by turning the Draw up the lower thread through the project handwheel toward you (counterclockwise). Then. and support the outside of the hoop with your little fingers. g forefingers of both hands while pressing the Grip the hoop with the thumbs and Memo ● Be sure to keep the stitches close together. Select the desired length for straight stitch (6) Memo ● When the hoop is moved quickly. h Start sewing. i and sew a few stitches for reinforcing.

refer to “Thread tension” (page 28). Sew while making sure that the needle drops d down to one side. c stitches. refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 26). They are used to decorate trims. Gathering Number on dial 6 Stitch name Application Shell tuck stitching Number on dial 9 Shell tuck stitch Shell tuck stitching The gathers that look like shells are called “shell tucks”. the front of blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics. (Center needle and sewing position) gathers or darning. • For details. a Attaching zippers. Stitch name Application a Select the desired length for straight stitch (6). and increase • For details. Loosen the tension of the upper thread (to 3 b about 2). Select the shell tuck stitch (9). Unfold the fabric. b the thread tension. Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers. Fold the fabric along the bias. etc.DECORATIVE STITCHING Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine. Straight stitch basic stitching. d Smooth the gathers by ironing them. Sew a single or multiple parallel rows of • Do not sew reverse stitches or cut the thread. and then iron the tucks 43 . c slightly off the edge of the fabric.

Memo ● Make reinforcing reverse stitches at the beginning and the end of stitching. start sewing the edges of the two fabrics together. ■ Mending Place the reinforcement fabric under the tear to be mended. sewing elastic or joining fabric. Each is explained below. and then sew over the tear. ■ Joining fabric Put the edges of the two pieces of fabric together. Select the elastic stitch (10). and then sew over the elastic tape while holding the tape both in front and behind the presser foot.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Elastic stitching Number on dial 10 Stitch name Application Mending. sewing Elastic stitching elastic tape or joining fabric. The elastic stitch can be used in 3 ways: mending. Then. ■ Sewing elastic tape Place the elastic tape on the fabric. 44 . and then place them under the presser foot with the fabric edges under the center of the presser foot.

otherwise injuries or an electric shock may occur. ● Sewing machine oil is available at your local sewing machine dealer or service center. Note ● Hold the face plate securely while removing or attaching it. After oiling.4 APPENDIX MAINTENANCE Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below. run the machine for a short time Memo ● Make sure to oil the machine once a week if you use it more than an hour a day. b indicated below. Oiling a Changing the bulb CAUTION Turn off the machine and unplug it. c at a fast speed without thread. oil every day. ● Do not apply too much oil as it may soil the thread and fabric. 4 Loosen the face plate screw. c Remove the face plate from the machine. a b Turn off the machine and unplug it. If you use it more often. ● Unplug the power supply cord before changing the bulb. 45 . Put 2 to 3 drops of oil at each of the points Be sure to wipe any excess oil off the machine.

Cleaning the machine surface If the surface of the machine is dirty. otherwise injuries or an electric shock may occur. Slide the latch levers out from the retaining CAUTION ● Unplug the power supply cord before cleaning the machine. a Retaining ring b Latch lever 46 . Cleaning the shuttle race CAUTION ● Be sure to unplug the machine before cleaning it. otherwise injuries or an electric shock may occur. a Bobbin case latch e ring to remove it.APPENDIX d ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Replace the sewing light bulb. Raise the needle and the presser foot. lightly soak a cloth in neutral detergent. Remove the flat bed attachment and open the Attach the face plate and fasten the screw d toward you and pulling it out from the shuttle Remove the bobbin case by pulling its latch race. a Turn off the machine and unplug it. b then remove the presser foot and the needle. a bulb b Loosen c Tighten e again. and then wipe the surface of the machine. wipe it again with a dry cloth. After cleaning it once with a wet cloth. squeeze it out firmly. and c shuttle cover at the front of the free arm.

hook. you may get an electric shock or be injured. the presser foot and Cleaning the feed dogs CAUTION ● Make sure you unplug the machine before you clean it. and Remove the flat bed attachment and open the 4 Remove the needle plate by using a coin or d screwdriver to remove the screws. b then remove the presser foot and the needle. Use a brush to clean the lint from the upper Reassemble the hook and the retaining ring. a Turn off the machine and unplug it. Attach the bobbin case.f and pulling it out. a Retaining ring b Hook c Hook center post g and thread from the retaining ring. Attach the needle plate by using a coin or a Retaining ring b Hook c Latch lever 47 . Clean the lint from the shuttle hook in the i same manner as described in step h. Raise the needle and the presser foot. Remove the hook by grasping its center post k the needle before using the machine. Otherwise. f screwdriver. c shuttle cover at the front of the free arm. a Retaining ring b Driver c Race body h wipe the shuttle race in order to remove any Use a cloth dampened with machine oil to lint. j and push the latch levers back into position. e part of the feed dogs and shuttle race body. Use a brush to remove any accumulated lint driver and race body.

■ Bobbin tension is too loose Loops appear on the surface of the fabric. no adjustment is needed. turn the screw clockwise. the thread tension must be adjusted according to the procedure described below.APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Repacking the machine Keep the carton and packing materials for future use. For most sewing applications. IMPORTANT ● This packing material is designed to prevent damage in transit. 1 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on surface of fabric 2 3 5 4 Solution Reduce the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a lower number. approximately 30-45 degrees to increase bobbin tension. being careful not to over-tighten the screw. After you adjust the bobbin thread. When sewing with thin thread on thin fabrics. the thread tension may not be adjusted adequately with the upper tension control dial. the bobbin thread may be too loose. damage may occur during shipping. pack it properly as described below. If it is not packed properly. Note ● Remember to return the screw to its original setting before starting your next project. adjust the upper thread to match the bobbin thread. When packing up the machine again. Note ● If the loops still appear on the surface of the fabric after you adjust the upper tension. 48 . ● Save this packing material in case it is needed to transport this sewing machine. a Screw Bobbin case tension adjustment The bobbin thread tension has already been adjusted at the factory for general use. In this case. Therefore.

4 a Screw 49 . Note ● If the loops still appear on the wrong side of the fabric after you adjust the upper tension. turn the screw counterclockwise being careful not to over-loosen the screw. In this case. 1 5 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on wrong side of fabric 2 3 4 Solution Increase the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a higher number. adjust the upper thread to match the bobbin thread. After you adjust the bobbin thread. approximately 30-45 degrees to decrease bobbin tension. the bobbin thread may be too tight.■ Bobbin tension is too tight Loops appear on the wrong side of the fabric.

The thread is tangled. The presser foot you are using is not appropriate for the type of stitch that you want to sew. The area around the hole in the nee. contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center. – page 19 page 28 page 46 The upper thread tension is too tight. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. 40. 50 . Reference page 10 page 10 page 13 page 11 page 20 page 21 page 20 page 19 page 35.APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— TROUBLESHOOTING If the machine stops operating correctly. Loosen the upper thread tension. The upper thread tension is too tight. in the shuttle race. authorized service center. Replace the bobbin case. Turn on the main power switch. Choose a needle that is appropriate for the type of stitch. Remove the tangle thread. Contact your retailer or the nearest dle plate is scratched. clean the shuttle race. The bobbin winder shaft is pushed to the right. 38. 41 page 28 – – The main power switch is turned off. – – page 12 Correct the upper threading. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. The needle clamp screw is loose. The area around the hole in the presser foot is scratched. The sewing machine does not work.Replace the needle plate. If the thread is tangled in the shuttle race. The bobbin case is scratched. Insert the needle properly. You have not used the foot controller properly. How to put it right Plug the machine in. check the following possible problems before requesting service. Move the bobbin winder shaft to the left. Replace the needle. Attach the presser foot that is correct for the type of stitch that you want to sew. you have not fitted the spool properly. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. page 16 The upper thread breaks. If you need additional help. You are pulling the fabric too much. The needle is bent or blunt. You have not threaded the upper thread properly. (for example. There are knots or tangles in the thread. thread and needle. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. the Brother Solutions Center offers the latest FAQs and troubleshooting tips. Use the foot controller properly. You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. The needle is not appropriate for the thread you are using. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. If the problem persists. Use the screwdriver to firmly tighten the screw. Symptom Possible cause The machine is not plugged in. Visit us at [http://solutions. Remove any knots or tangles. Lightly guide the fabric. Loosen the upper thread tension. You have not inserted the needle properly. The needle breaks.com].brother. 36. for example. You can solve most problems by yourself. or the thread has come out of the guide above the needle.) Replace the presser foot. You have not used the right combination of fabric.

You have not used the right combination of fabric. Reset the bobbin thread correctly. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorised service center. Insert the needle properly. The bobbin case is scratched. The upper thread is too tight. You have not wound the bobbin thread properly. You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. Wind the bobbin thread properly. The thread tension is incorrect. The bobbin is scratched or does not turn smoothly. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine.Symptom Possible cause The needle is bent or blunt. The lower thread is tangled or breaks. or has a burr on it. page 16 page 12 page 19 page 24 page 28 page 12 page 14 page 14 51 . Replace the bobbin. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. Correctly install the bobbin thread. The thread ten. The upper thread breaks. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine.Replace the needle plate. You have not inserted the needle properly. Bobbin is set incorrectly. – – page 12 page 12 – page 46 page 12 page 14 page 16 4 Correct the upper threading.You have not attached the pressersion is incorrect. How to put it right Replace the needle. Correct the upper threading. Bobbin is set incorrectly. thread and needle. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. You have not wound the bobbin thread properly. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorised service center. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. foot holder properly. The thread is tangled. Remove the tangled thread and clean the shuttle race. The area around the hole in the presser foot is scratched. Wind the bobbin thread properly. Attach the presser-foot holder properly. Replace the bobbin case. The thread is tangled on the wrong side of the fabric. Replace the presser foot. Contact your retailer or the nearest dle plate is scratched. The bobbin thread is incorrectly installed. The upper thread was not threaded correctly. You have not threaded the upper thread properly. Reset the bobbin thread correctly. You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. authorised service center. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. Reference page 20 page 20 – The area around the hole in the nee.

The bobbin case is scratched. thread and needle. You have not used bobbin that has been designed for this machine. The thread is tangled. Replace the bobbin case. You have not fitted the spool properly. 16 – page 19 page 20 page 31 page 28 page 16 page 19 page 20 page 46. Insert the needle properly. Correct the upper threading. Change the sewing light bulb. Fit the spool properly. Stitches are skipped. You have not used the right combination of fabric.APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Symptom Possible cause You have not threaded the upper thread properly or fitted the bobbin properly. 40. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. The needle is bent or blunt. Correct the upper threading. 41 page 28 page 46 page 19 page 46 The fabric does not feed. clean the shuttle race. the stitch is too thick. The thread is tangled. thread and needle. The stitch is not sewn correctly. The sewing light bulb does not come on. in the shuttle race. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. 47 page 46 page 16 – The fabric is wrinkled. Make sure to oil the machine once a week if you use it more than an hour a day. There is a highpitched noise while sewing. The sewing lamp is damaged. page 45 The presser foot that you are using is not correct for the type of stitch. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. The thread tension is incorrect. in the shuttle race. You have not inserted the needle properly. How to put it right Thread the upper thread and wind the bobbin thread properly. If the thread is tangled in the shuttle race. Clean the shuttle race. You have not threaded the upper thread properly. for example. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. Dust has accumulated under the needle plate or in the shuttle race. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. Remove the needle plate cover and clean the plate and the shuttle race. thread and needle. You have not threaded the upper thread properly. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. page 45 52 . The thread tension is incorrect. Sew with stabiliser material under the fabric. for example. Reference page 14. Remove the tangle thread. 38. If you are sewing thin fabric. clean the shuttle race. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. If the thread is tangled in the shuttle race. Remove the tangle thread. Replace the needle. You have not used the right combination of fabric. oil every day. You have not used the right combination of fabric. 36. If you use it more often. page 12 Insufficient oiling. Attach the presser foot that is correct for the type of stitch that you want to sew. Dust has built up in the feed dogs or in the shuttle race. page 33. Replace the needle. The needle is bent or blunt.

...................................... 32............................... 28 trial sewing ......................................................................................................................................................................................................... 50 twin needle ................19 shell tuck stitching ..................................................36 buttonhole sewing ....................35 E embroidering ........ 16 thread tension ............................................................................................................................................................................................33 bobbin .......................................................................... 43 Z H handwheel .........................................6 main power switch ...................... 28 thread guide ......................................................................33 stretch blind stitch ............ 26 presser foot .................................9 appliqués .......6.........................43 shuttle hook removal ..........................16 C cleaning ..................................... 14 bobbin winder .................. 48 reverse sewing lever ........... 7........................................................ 31 foot controller .....................8................8... 28 53 ...................................................12 zigzag stitches ...................................................40 zipper insertion .........36 T thick fabrics ..........................................30.................... 16 pre-tension disk ..................... 12 P R relative chart of sewing fabrics.......................................................................................12...................................INDEX A accessories ...................... 37 sewing machine needles ................................ 19 needle bar thread guide ... 8.........28................ 29..................... 8....................................................................................................... 7 J joining ......................................................................... 40 G gathering ........................................... 47 flat bed attachment ........................................... 41 zipper foot ................ 21............................ 31 B basic stitching ............................................... 41 extra spool pin ............................................................. 41 S satin stitching ........................................................ 16 straight stitch .........8................................................ 22 upper tension-control dial .........................................32 pattern selection dial ............................................. 31 F U W winding the bobbin ................................................................................................33 blind hem stitching .........................................................................38 buttonhole foot .................................................................. 12 button sewing ....... 14 bobbin case ........................................... 23 presser foot holder ........................................................................................10 monogramming ................... 41 N needle .......... 21 needle plate ....................47 shuttle race cleaning ......................................................................................................................................................................33 stretch fabrics ............31 thread cutter ..................................................................................................................................................................................................... needles and threads ..................................................................................... 44 M main parts ........................................................................................................................30 thin fabrics .................................................................47 spool pin ............................................................. 22 feed dogs ....32 seam ripper ......................8......................................................... 30 troubleshooting ............ 19 repacking ............................................................................................................................ 47 O oiling .....................................................27 free-arm style ............................................................................. 48 upper threading .............................45 overcasting stitches ............................................................................................. 24 presser foot lever ....................................8 needle clamp screw ............. 46 D darning ....................................................

English XE4592-001 Printed in China .

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