KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

SEWING BASICS

UTILITY STITCHES

APPENDIX

Basic Sewing and Mending Machine

Operation Manual
Please visit us at http://solutions.brother.com where you can get product support and answers to frequently asked questions (FAQs).

“IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS”
When using the sewing machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following: “Read all instructions before using.”

DANGER – To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1. The sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning. 2. Always unplug before changing the light bulb. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 watts.

WARNING – To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons: 1. Do not allow this machine to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the sewing machine is used by or near children. 2. Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual. 3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the sewing machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment. 4. Never operate the sewing machine with any of the air openings blocked. Keep the ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth. 5. Never drop or insert any object into any openings. 6. Do not use this machine outdoors. 7. Do not operate this machine where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered. 8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol “O” position which represents off, then remove plug from outlet. 9. Do not unplug by pulling on the cord. To unplug, grasp the plug and pull, not the cord. 10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle. 11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break. 12. Do not use a bent needle. 13. Do not pull or push the fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break. 14. Switch the sewing machine to the off, symbol “O” position when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading the needle, changing the needle, threading the bobbin, or changing the presser foot. 15. Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user service adjustments mentioned in this instruction manual. 16. This sewing machine is not intended for use by young children or impaired persons without supervision. 17. Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this sewing machine. “SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS” “This sewing machine is intended for household use.”

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FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY
If this machine is fitted with a three-pin non-rewireable BS plug then please read the following.

IMPORTANT
If the available socket outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, it should be cut off and an appropriate three-pin plug fitted. With alternative plugs an approved fuse must be fitted in the plug. NOTE The plug served from the main lead must be destroyed as a plug with bared flexible cords is hazardous if engaged in a live socket outlet. In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark, rating as marked on plug. Always replace the fuse cover, never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted. WARNING DO NOT CONNECT EITHER WIRE TO THE EARTH TERMINAL WHICH IS MARKED WITH THE LETTER ‘E’, BY THE EARTH SYMBOL OR COLOURED GREEN OR GREEN AND YELLOW. The wires in this main lead are coloured in accordance with the following code: Blue Brown Neutral Live

As the colours of the wiring in the main lead of this appliance may not correspond with the coloured markings identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows. The wire which is coloured blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter ‘N’ or coloured black or blue. The wire which is coloured brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter ‘L’ or coloured red or brown.

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CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING OUR MACHINE
To fully enjoy all the features, we suggest that you study the manual before using the machine.

PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE
For safe operation 1. Be sure to keep your eye on the needle while sewing. Do not touch the handwheel, thread takeup lever, needle, or other moving parts. 2. Remember to turn off the power switch and unplug the cord when: • Operation is completed • Replacing or removing the needle or any other parts • A power failure occurs during use • Maintaining the machine • Leaving the machine unattended 3. Do not store anything on the foot controller. 4. Plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use extension cords. For a longer service life 1. When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects. 2. Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used. 3. Do not drop or hit the machine. 4. Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation. For repair or adjustment In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer. For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.brother.com The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.

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.................................................................................................................................................. 38 4 .............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 35 BUTTONHOLE SEWING ...................................................................6 NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS .. 33 Darning .......................................... 25 Selecting stitching .......................9 USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE .................................................... 11 Steadying the machine ..................................................................................... 28 USEFUL SEWING TIPS ............................................................... 30 Trial sewing .................................................................................................................... 30 Sewing curves ................................... 28 Thread tension ............................... 19 Selecting the needle depending on the thread and fabric types ..................................... 32 Zigzag stitches .. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE .. 31 Using a free-arm style ...... 8 ACCESSORIES ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 30 Sewing thick fabrics ................................................................................................................................................................................. 6 Needle and presser foot section ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 38 Button sewing ...................................... 30 Changing the sewing direction ................................................................................................................................................................... 10 Foot controller .............................................. UTILITY STITCHES ........................................ 6 The main parts .........................................................19 Needle precautions .........................................................12 Winding the bobbin ....................................................................................................................25 SEWING ..................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 31 Sewing stretch fabrics ..................... 26 Starting to sew .................................... 36 Adjusting buitching stitching .............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 27 Sewing in reverse .............. 31 3..................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... SEWING BASICS .................................................................... 8 Flat bed attachment ................................................................................................ 19 Checking the needle .......................................................23 Replacing the presser foot .............................. 20 Replacing the needle ..................................36 Making the buttonhole ......... 12 Lower threading .................................... 32 Basic stitching ........................................................................................................................................ 18 REPLACING THE NEEDLE ........................................................................................................... 22 REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT ....................................................................................... 16 Drawing up the lower thread ................................................................................................................................... 11 THREADING THE MACHINE ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 14 Upper threading ...................................................... 33 Blind hem stitching ...................................................................................................................................................................................—————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— CONTENTS 1..................................................................................................................................... 23 Removing the presser foot holder ........................................................................................... 24 2.................................................................................................................................................................................................32 USEFUL STITCHES ................................................................................................................................................. 10 Power supply .......................................................................................................................................................................................... 20 Sewing with a twin needle (Option) ...............................................................................................25 General sewing procedure .............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................10 Power supply precautions .......................................................................................... 30 Sewing thin fabrics ..........................................................................................

.............................................. 47 Repacking the machine .............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ZIPPER INSERTION ............................................................ 46 Cleaning the shuttle race ..........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................45 Oiling ............................................................................................. MONOGRAMMING AND EMBROIDERING .................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 40 APPLIQUÉ............................................ 53 5 .....................50 INDEX ............................................................................. 48 TROUBLESHOOTING ................... 43 Elastic stitching ................................... APPENDIX ................................ 45 Cleaning the machine surface .................................... 46 Cleaning the feed dogs ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 43 Shell tuck stitching . 48 Bobbin case tension adjustment .................................................................................... 41 DECORATIVE STITCHING ................................................... 41 Appliqués ......................................................................................... 41 Monogramming and embroidering ............................................................................ 45 Changing the bulb .........................................................................................................................................................................................45 MAINTENANCE .................................................................... 44 4.....................................................................43 Gathering ................................................

c Thread take-up lever (page 16) d Upper tension control dial (page 28) This controls the tension of the upper thread. 6 . e Flat bed attachment with accessory storage (page 8 and 31) f Reverse sewing lever (page 28) Press and hold down the reverse sewing lever to sew in the opposite direction.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— 1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS The main parts a Buttonhole fine-adjusting screw (page 38) Turn the buttonhole fine-adjusting screw to adjust buttonhole stitching when it is not uniform. b Pattern selection dial (page 26) Turn the pattern selection dial to select the number of the stitch that you want to use.

p Foot controller (page 11) Use the foot controller to control the sewing speed and to start and stop sewing. i Bobbin winder (page 12) The bobbin winder winds thread onto the bobbin for use as the lower thread.1 g Built-in handle h Spool pin (page 12 and 16) The spool pin holds the spool of thread.K. XC7359-021 (110/120V Area). XD0852-021 (Korea). n Presser foot lever (page 16) Use the presser foot lever to raise and lower the presser foot. Part code. o Bobbin winding pre-tension disc/thread guide (page 12 and 16) The thread guide/bobbin winding pre-tension disc is used when winding the thread onto the bobbin and threading the machine. l Foot controller jack/jack Insert the foot controller plug into the foot controller jack. m Thread cutter (page 28) Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them. j Handwheel Use the handwheel to manually raise and lower the needle. New Zealand). XC7438-321 (Russia) 7 . which also supplies power to this machine. XC7456-321 (U. k Main power/sewing light switch (page 10) Use this switch to turn on and off the main power and sewing light. XC7438-321 (220/240V Area).). XE0629-001 (Australia.

and be lost or damaged. they may fall out. e Needle plate The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing straight seams. h Bobbin case i Needle j Needle bar thread guide k Needle clamp screw Use the needle clamp screw to hold the needle in place. c Presser foot (Zigzag) The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the selected stitching. b Presser foot screw Use the presser foot screw to hold the presser foot holder assembly in place. 8 . If the accessories are not in a bag. f Shuttle hook g Shuttle cover Open the shuttle cover to set the bobbin. a toward you. and then pull the flat bed Lift the bottom of the flat bed attachment attachment out to remove it. Note ● Put the accessories in the bag. a Flat bed attachment b Storage compartment a Presser foot holder assembly The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder assembly. d Feed dogs The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Needle and presser foot section Flat bed attachment The accessories are stored in a compartment inside the flat bed attachment. and then store the bag inside the compartment.

ACCESSORIES The following accessories are stored in the flat bed attachment. / Canada Others X59369-321 X59370-021 XE2137-001 XA3442-121 No. only) ● Foot controller: Model KD-1902.S. 4.A. 5 6 7 8 Part Name Bobbin (3) Needle set Screwdriver Extra spool pin Part Code U. No. 1 2 3 4 Part Name Buttonhole foot “A” Zipper foot “I” Button sewing foot “M” Darning plate Part Code U. ● The screw of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer. 75/11 1 needle 90/14 1 needle 100/16 1 needle 7.A. 8.A. (Part number: 138135-122) 1. 3. / Canada Others XA5539-151 SA156 129583-021 X55467-021 130920-021 9 .S. We have designed these accessories to help you be able to carry out most sewing tasks. 6. 1 Note (For U. N This foot controller can be used on the following machine models: LS-2220/2720/1520/2125/2125i. 2.S. (Part code: 132730-122) ● A replacement for the factory-installed presser foot is available through your authorized dealer. 5.

or lead to fire or electric shock. Power supply a between the foot controller and the power b Set the main power switch to “I”. These things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. located supply plug on the cord. WARNING ● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. forcefully bent. If the cord or plug is damaged. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. twisted. modified. ● Do not allow the power cord to be cut. electric shock. Insert the foot controller plug. ● When unplugging the machine. Fire or electric shock may result. Using other power sources may result in fire. always turn off the main power first. ● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. damaged. insert the power supply plug into a wall outlet. Otherwise a fire may result. Electric shock may result. The sewing lamp comes on when the machine is turned on. ● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances: • When you are away from the machine • After using the machine • When the power fails during use • When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection • During electrical storms CAUTION ● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them. or bundled. a Foot controller plug 10 . Do not place heavy objects on the cord. or damage to the machine. Always grasp the plug to remove it from the outlet. ● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. into the jack on the machine.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE Power supply precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply. Then. take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use. pulled.

the machine’s speed will increase.c switch to “ To turn off the machine. 1 Slower Faster You should make sure that nothing is placed on the foot controller when the machine is not in use. When you take your foot off the foot controller. reverse the plug. the machine will run at a low speed. Doing so could cause a fire or an electric shock. When restarting the sewing machine. The sewing lamp goes off when the machine is turned off. Do not modify the plug in any way.S. Steadying the machine If the sewing machine has been placed on an uneven surface. When you press the foot controller down lightly. follow the necessary procedure to correctly operate the machine. be sure to turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent the machine from accidentally being started. To reduce the risk of electric shock. CAUTION ● Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to build up on the foot controller. turn off the sewing machine and unplug the power supply cord. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet. When you press harder. this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. ● A new sewing machine or one that has not been in use for a long period of time should be oiled as described on page 45. the machine will stop. contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Foot controller CAUTION ● When connecting the foot controller. turn the rubber cushion in the right-front corner of the base plate to adjust its height until the sewing machine is stable.A. be sure to wipe off any excess oil. 11 . (For U. Note ● If a power outage occurs while the sewing machine is being operated. After oiling. only) ● This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). set the main power ”. If it still does not fit.

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— THREADING THE MACHINE Winding the bobbin This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin. If you use bobbins from other models. the machine will not work properly. until the spring on the shaft slides into the groove of the bobbin. 12 . Using other bobbins may cause damage to the machine. ● We designed the bobbin that comes with this machine. Actual size 11. Only use the bobbin that comes with this machine or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156. c the bobbin from the inside of the bobbin. 1 Pulling it in as far as possible. SFB: XA5539-151). SFB: XA5539-151) that have been designed for this sewing machine. by hand. a Pre-tension disk b Bobbin winder shaft c Bobbin CAUTION ● Only use bobbins (part code: SA156. and Put the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft Pass the thread around the pre-tension disk. Pull up the spool pin as far as possible. Turn the bobbin clockwise. b Other models d and slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right. Pass the end of the thread through the hole on a Spring on the shaft b Groove of the bobbin e Turn on the sewing machine. CAUTION ● If the spool of thread is not in the right place.5 mm (7/16 inches) This model a then put a spool of thread on this pin. the thread may tangle on the spool pin.

and the bobbin is wound. this is not a malfunction. CAUTION ● Make sure you follow the instructions carefully. h 1 a Wound evenly b Wound poorly 2 Press the foot controller to start.f press the foot controller to wind the thread While holding the end of the thread. slide the bobbin winder shaft around the bobbin a few times. i spinning slowly. Memo ● When the sewing machine is started or the handwheel is turned after winding the thread around the bobbin. Then stop the machine. take your foot off the foot When the bobbin seems full and begins controller. 1 CAUTION g Trim the excess thread above the bobbin. If you do not cut the thread completely. Cut the thread. ● The needle bar does not move when you slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right. ● Winding the bobbin improperly may cause the thread tension to loosen. the machine will make a clicking sound. when the thread runs low it may tangle around the bobbin and cause the needle to break. 13 . gently j to the left and remove the bobbin. breaking the needle and resulting in injury.

• Only use bobbins that were designed to be used with this machine.5 mm (7/16 inches) This model Other models a Bobbin case latch d from a full bobbin. breaking the needle and resulting in injury. you could be injured. If bobbins from other models are used.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— b attachment at the front of the machine. ● The bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. CAUTION ● Make sure you turn the power off while threading the machine. CAUTION ● Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread unrolls in the right direction. a the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) Raise the needle to its highest position by turning and raise the presser foot lever. the machine will not operate correctly. SFB: XA5539-151). a Flat bed attachment b Shuttle cover 1 a Wound evenly b Wound poorly 2 c toward you and pulling it out from the shuttle Remove the bobbin case by pulling its latch race. and then insert the bobbin Unwind about 10 cm (4 inches) of thread into the bobbin case. Open the shuttle cover behind the flat bed Lower threading Install the bobbin wound with thread. it may cause the thread tension to be incorrect or break the needle. 14 . If the thread unrolls in the wrong direction. If you accidentally step on the foot controller and the machine starts to sew. Actual size 11. Use only the enclosed bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156. CAUTION ● Winding the bobbin improperly may cause the thread tension to loosen.

If it is incorrectly installed. 15 . until it enters Pull the trailing thread through the slot. a Bobbin case finger b Notch g Close the shuttle cover. as shown below. it will fall out from the shuttle when the machine starts to sew. fully insert release the latch.e and to the left. CAUTION ● Make sure that the bobbin case is properly placed back into the machine. 1 a Tension spring f the bobbin case into the shuttle race. • Make sure the bobbin case finger fits into the notch at the top of the shuttle race. and then Hold the bobbin case by the latch. down the delivery eye under the tension spring.

the sewing machine can not be threaded. a b c d Spool pin Thread guide (rear) Thread guide (front) Thread take-up lever CAUTION ● Make sure you thread the machine properly. Otherwise. • If the needle is not correctly raised. Pull up the spool pin as far as possible. the thread may tangle on the spool pin and cause the needle to break. a lever. a Upper tension control dial b Thread check spring 16 . d guides: the rear one first. or is set incorrectly. and CAUTION ● If the spool of thread is in the wrong place.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Upper threading Set the upper thread and thread the needle. the thread could tangle and break the needle. Raise the needle by turning the handwheel b toward you (counterclockwise) to raise the thread take-up lever to its highest position. Raise the presser foot using the presser foot c then put a spool of thread on this pin. Be sure to turn the handwheel before threading the sewing machine. a Presser foot lever e tension control dial from the right to the left Feed the upper thread through both thread Pull the thread down and around the upper so the thread picks up the thread check spring. then the front one.

h guide above the needle. the upper thread cannot be wrapped around the thread take-up lever. Guide the thread through the thread take-up a Needle bar thread guide i out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread. Put the thread behind the needle bar thread The thread can easily be passed behind the needle bar thread guide by holding the thread in your left hand. Thread the needle from front to back and pull a Thread take-up lever a 5 cm (2 inches) Note ● If the thread take-up lever is lowered. Make sure you raise the presser foot lever and the thread take-up lever before you feed the upper thread. While holding the thread as shown below. ● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may cause sewing problems. then feeding the thread with your right hand. 17 .f pull it between the tension discs. 1 g lever from right to left.

a Upper thread b raise the needle to its highest position by While holding the end of the upper thread. turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise). Pull on the upper thread to draw up the lower a Upper thread b Lower thread 18 . a Upper thread b Lower thread c thread. d threads and pull them toward the back of the Pull out about 15 cm (6 inches) of both machine under the presser foot.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Drawing up the lower thread a Lightly hold the end of the upper thread.

Batiste Cotton. Velvet. possibly resulting in injury. 90/14 (Supplied with Lightweight wool. Muslin Denim. and the larger the needle number. Corduroy. Chiffon 65/9 Needle sizes Thread sizes Cotton: 80 Synthetic/ Polyester Long Fiber Fine Mercerized Cotton Cotton: 60-80 Silk: “A” Synthetic/ Polyester Long Fiber Mercerized 50 Cotton: 50-60 Silk: “A” Synthetic/ Polyester Long Fiber Mercerized 50-60 Cotton: 40-50 Mercerized Heavy Duty Polyester Long Fiber Cotton Wrapped Polyester Polyester Long Fiber Lightweight Voile. ● Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur. Silk. 75/11 Synthetics. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below. Poplin. ● A 75/11 needle is already installed when the sewing machine is purchased. Pique. regardless of the fabric being sewn. Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous. Sewing fabrics Very thin Fine tricot. Percale. Duck 100/16 Medium weight Heavyweight Knits Single knit.REPLACING THE NEEDLE This section provides information on sewing machine needles. Linen. Fine lace. the thicker the thread. 90/14 (Ball point) Jersey. 1 CAUTION ● Only use home sewing machine needles. Bent needles can easily break. your machine. 19 . Thin linen. the thicker the needle. Gingham. ● Never use bent needles. Use the same size thread for the upper (spool) and lower (bobbin) threads. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew. Selecting the needle depending on the thread and fabric types The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Satin. Organza. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine. Canvas. Tweed. Taffeta. ● Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with transparent nylon threads. Needle precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Silk. Gabardine. Double knit. Tricot Memo ● The smaller the thread number. Suitings.) Fine corduroy.

thread and needle combinations are shown in the table on the previous page. particularly when sewing thick fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11). a Turn off the sewing machine. place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even. 1 a Flat surface ■ Incorrect needle If the distance between the needle and the flat surface is not even. otherwise injuries may occur if the foot controller is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing. CAUTION ● Before replacing the needle. thread and needle is not correct. Replacing the needle Replace the needle as described below. Do not use a bent needle.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— CAUTION ● The appropriate fabric. a Presser foot lever 1 a Flat surface 20 . Use the screwdriver and a needle that has been determined to be straight according to the instructions in “Checking the needle” . a Flat side b Needle type marking ■ Correct needle c Lower the presser foot lever. the needle is bent. be sure to turn off the sewing machine. the stitching may be uneven or puckered or there may be skipped stitches. If the combination of the fabric. the needle may bend or break. Checking the needle Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous since the needle may break while the machine is being operated. b turning the handwheel toward you 1 2 Raise the needle to its highest position by (counterclockwise). Before using the needle. In addition.

insert the needle until it With the flat side of the needle toward the touches the needle stopper. CAUTION ● Be sure to insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with the screwdriver. a the needle clamp onto the needle bar so that As seen from the front of the machine. Note ● The needle can be removed by simply loosening the needle clamp screw about one turn. otherwise certain parts of the sewing machine may be damaged. slide the needle clamp screw is on the right side and the needle bar thread guide is at the bottom. a Needle stopper a b c d Needle bar Needle holder Needle clamp screw Align 21 . ■ Installing the needle clamp If the needle clamp is removed.) 1 Install the twin needle in the same way. otherwise the needle may break or damage may result.d use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp Hold the needle with your left hand. clamp screw by turning it clockwise. and then Align the bottom edge of the needle holder tighten the needle clamp screw. and then screw counterclockwise to remove the needle. f use the screwdriver to tighten the needle While holding the needle with your left hand. (If the needle clamp screw is loosened too much. a Needle clamp screw b Needle bar thread guide c Needle bar b with the end of the needle bar. do not loosen the needle clamp screw too much. e rear of the machine. follow the procedure below to attach it to the needle bar. a Screwdriver b Needle clamp screw • Do not apply strong force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw. the needle clamp (which holds the needle) may fall off. Therefore.

thread guide.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing with a twin needle (Option) We have designed your machine so you can sew with the optional twin needle and two top threads. e the machine to the thread take-up lever. ● Do not sew with bent needles. ● Slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. and damage the machine. b Put the extra spool pin in the hole on the top of Attach the extra spool pin. 22 . a Left needle thread passes through the needle bar thread guide. See page 16 for more details. ■ Twin needle threading a Attach the twin needle in the same way as a Attach the twin needle. The needle could break and injure you. You can use the same color or two different colors of thread for making decorative stitches. the machine. the needle may bend or break. If the needle hits the presser foot. d Thread the left needle from front to back. c Needle bar thread guide a First spool b Second spool c the machine to the needle bar thread guide. ● When using the twin needle. Use the thread from the first spool to thread The path for threading the machine to the needle bar thread guide is the same as for normally threading the machine (for a single needle). Other needles could break. The stitches available for twin-needle sewing are straight stitches 6 through 10 and zigzag stitch 2. ● When changing the sewing direction. Use the thread from the second spool to thread The path for threading the machine to the thread take-up lever is the same as for normally threading the machine (for a single needle). See page 16 for more details. CAUTION ● Use only twin needles that have been made for this machine (part code: X57521-021). Put the second spool of thread onto the extra spool pin. f Do not pass the thread behind the needle bar Thread the right needle from front to back. b Right needle thread passes in front of the needle bar thread guide. If the fabric is turned while the needle is lowered. the needle may bend or break. be sure to raise the needle before turning the fabric. be sure to select an appropriate stitch (straight stitches 6 through 10 and zigzag stitch 2). single needle (page 20). otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

Raise the needle to its highest position by (counterclockwise). I. Position the presser foot so the letter indicating the presser foot type (A. and may cause injury. 1 Replacing the presser foot Replace the presser foot as described below. otherwise injuries may occur if the foot controller is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing. a Presser foot lever a Presser foot lever The presser foot is attached. be sure to turn off the sewing machine. ● Always use the correct presser foot for the stitch pattern you have chosen. ● Only use presser feet that have been designed to be used with this machine. a Black button b Presser foot holder CAUTION ● Before replacing the presser foot. the needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break.REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT CAUTION ● Always turn off the power before you change the presser foot. 23 . the machine will start and you may be injured. Using other any presser feet may cause an accident or injury. If you use the wrong presser foot. Press the black button at the back of the If the sewing machine has been turned on. b turning the handwheel toward you e so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the Place a different presser foot below the holder shank in the holder. a Presser foot holder b Shank c Pin f presser foot pin snaps into the shank in the Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the presser foot holder.) is positioned to be read. If you leave the power on and step on the controller. etc. c Raise the presser foot lever. d presser foot holder to release the presser foot. a turn it off.

a Presser foot holder b Presser bar b your right hand. Use the screwdriver to remove the presser foot holder. • For details. Align the presser foot holder with the lower- Removing the presser foot holder Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that does not use the presser foot holder. and then tighten the screw Hold the presser foot holder in place with using the screwdriver in your left hand. refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 23). the thread tension will be incorrect. a Screwdriver b Presser foot holder c Presser foot holder screw 24 . ■ Removing the presser foot holder a Remove the presser foot. b holder screw.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— g presser foot is securely attached. Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot a Screwdriver b Presser foot holder c Presser foot holder screw Note ● If the presser foot holder is not correctly installed. Raise the presser foot lever to check that the ■ Attaching the presser foot holder a left side of the presser bar. such as the quilting foot.

2 CAUTION ● While the machine is in operation. ● Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins. otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may break. 1 Turn on the machine. For details on starting to sew. Bent needles can easily break. General sewing procedure Follow the basic procedures below to sew. In addition. For details on turning on the machine. Before operating the sewing machine. Turn on the sewing machine. cut the threads. refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 26). Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn. refer to “Power supply” (page 10). When sewing is finished. otherwise injuries may occur. pay special attention to the needle location. For details on selecting a stitch. 4 Start sewing. and then start sewing. 2 Select the stitch. possibly resulting in injuries.2 SEWING BASICS SEWING Basic sewing operations are described below. refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 23). keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel. For details on replacing the presser foot. otherwise the needle may break or bend. Position the fabric. ● Never use bent needles. 3 Attach the presser foot. refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27). 25 . ● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing. read the following precautions. Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch.

aPattern selection dial Number on dial Stitch name 4-step automatic buttonhole b Pattern ac d Page 1 36 2 Zigzag stitch 3 Zigzag stitch 32.SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Selecting stitching Turning the stitch selection dial in either direction. 40. 33. 43 7 Straight stitch (Left needle position) Stretch blind Stitch 33 8 33 9 Shell tuck stitch 43 10 Elastic stitch 44 26 . 35. 41 4 Zigzag stitch 5 Zigzag (satin) stitch 6 Straight stitch (Center needle position) Select the desired length. select the desired stitch.

pass pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine. The machine stops sewing. turn the handwheel While holding the end of the thread and the Turn on the sewing machine. Raise the presser foot lever. The machine starts sewing. a Presser foot lever d the thread under the presser foot. h Take your foot off the foot controller. and then Place the fabric under the presser foot. toward you (counterclockwise) with your right hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching.Starting to sew a e fabric with your left hand. 2 b turning the handwheel toward you Raise the needle to its highest position by (counterclockwise). i turning the handwheel toward you a 5 cm (2 inches) j Raise the needle to its highest position by (counterclockwise). 27 . c Raise the presser foot lever. f Lower the presser foot lever. a Presser foot lever g Slowly press down on the foot controller.

b lever. the upper thread may be too tight.SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— k and then pass the threads through the thread Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine. In this case. a Thread cutter Sewing in reverse Reverse sewing is used to lock the threads at the end of the seam or wherever reinforcement is needed. release the reverse sewing 1 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on surface of fabric 2 3 5 4 Solution Reduce the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a lower number. You may need to adjust it when you change fabric or thread. 1 2 3 a b c d Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Press and hold down the reverse sewing lever 4 ■ Upper tension is too tight Loops appear on the surface of the fabric. To sew forward. Memo ● Before beginning to change tension adjustments make sure the upper thread and bobbin are inserted correctly. Note ● If the bobbin thread was incorrectly inserted. cutter on the back of the presser foot bar to cut them. 28 . Thread tension The thread tension will affect the quality of your stitches. ■ Correct tension Correct tension is important as too much or too little tension will weaken your seams or cause puckers on your fabric. a while sewing. ● We recommend you do a test sample on a scrap of fabric before you start to sew. refer to “Lower threading” (page 14) and reinsert the bobbin.

Be sure not to turn the screw more than one full turn. refer to “Upper threading” (page 16) and rethread. In this case. 4 Solution Increase the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a higher number. In addition. If the problem persists. 29 . For most sewing applications. Note ● If the upper thread was incorrectly threaded. ■ Bobbin tension is too loose Loops may appear on the surface of the fabric when sewing thin fabric with thin thread. Note ● The bobbin thread tension has been adjusted at the factory for general use.■ Upper tension is too loose Loops appear on the wrong side of the fabric. the upper thread may be too loose. be sure to return the screw to its original position before the next time that the machine is used. 1 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on surface of fabric 2 3 5 1 5 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on wrong side of fabric 4 2 2 3 Solution Reduce the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a lower number. increase the tension in the bobbin by turning the screw clockwise with a small screwdriver. no adjustment is needed.

depending on the type of fabric and stitching being sewn. perform the trial sewing under the same conditions that will be used with your project. If the needle was raised. stop the Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). the needle may bend or break. lower the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise). For the trial sewing.SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— USEFUL SEWING TIPS Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. the needle may bend or break. 30 . If the fabric is turned while the needle is lowered. use a piece of fabric and thread that are the same as those used for your project. Refer to these tips when sewing your project. raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position. Sewing curves Stop sewing. Sewing thick fabrics ■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot. Changing the sewing direction a sewing machine. the desired results may not be achieved. select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain a finer stitch. and then slightly change the sewing direction to sew around the curve. Trial sewing A trial piece of fabric should be sewn since. When the stitching reaches a corner. c sewing. be sure to raise the needle before changing the sewing direction. and check the thread tension and stitch length and width. CAUTION ● When using the twin needle. When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag stitch. Raise the presser foot lever. Since the results differ depending on the type of stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn. and then turn the b fabric. Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot. Lower the presser foot lever and continue CAUTION ● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inches) thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much force.

baste the pieces of fabric together. lift the bottom of the flat bed attachment toward you. 2 a Stabilizer material or paper Sewing stretch fabrics First. If this occurs. tear off any excess paper. place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. When you have finished sewing.Sewing thin fabrics When sewing thin fabrics. a Flat bed attachment 31 . and then sew without stretching the fabric. To change your machine to the free-arm style. and then pull the flat bed attachment out to remove it. a Basting Using a free-arm style Free-arm sewing is convenient for sewing tubular and hard-to-reach areas.

CAUTION ● Slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. Zigzag (satin) stitch a Select a stitch. Lower the needle into the fabric at the b beginning of the stitching. cut the thread. Select the desired width. the needle may bend or break. • For details. 32 . Number on dial 2 Zigzag stitch 3 Zigzag stitch 4 Zigzag stitch 5 Overcasting and attaching appliqués with the decorative satin stitches. Overcasting and attaching appliqués. Stitch name Application c Start sawing. refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 26).UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— 3 UTILITY STITCHES USEFUL STITCHES Zigzag stitches You can use the zigzag stitches to join together seams and finish them in one operation. refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27). Memo ● When sewing with a zigzag stitch. • For details. • For details. d When sewing is finished. If the needle hits the presser foot. use straight stitches at the beginning and end of the zigzag stitch for reinforcement. They are also useful for sewing stretch materials. refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27).

• For details. without the stitch showing. Number on dial 8 Stitch name Stretch blind Stitch Application Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics. Straight stitch (Left needle position) Basic stitching. Number on dial 6 Stitch name Application Blind hem stitching You can use the Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edge of a project. like the hem of a pair of trousers. d Lower the needle into the fabric at the Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the Start sewing. and press. Two stitches are available for basic stitching. <Seen from the side> a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric 33 . etc. • For details. 3 Select a stitch.Basic stitching Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27). refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27). a Right side of fabric b Bottom side b hem. etc. Attaching Straight stitch zippers. refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 26). • For details. cut the thread. e When sewing is finished. and position) sewing gathers or darning. 7 a Reverse the skirt or pants. a b Baste or pin together the fabric pieces. basic (Center needle stitching. sewing gathers or pintucks. c beginning of the stitching.

Unfold the edge of fabric. Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the and then start sewing. refer to“Using a free-arm style” (page 31). Remove the flat bed attachment and make • For details on free-arm sewing. and position the <Seen from the side> <Seen from the side> a b c d e d Wrong side of fabric Right side of fabric Edge of fabric Basting stitching 5 mm (3/16 inches) a Wrong side of fabric b Basting c Edge of fabric f Select the stretch blind stitch (8). h arm. and Use a chalk to mark on the fabric about 5 mm then baste it. g free-arm sewing possible. <Seen from the side> a b c d Wrong side of fabric Edge of fabric Basting 5 mm (3/16 inches) a Arm 34 .UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— c (3/16 inches) from the edge of the fabric. make sure that the fabric feeds correctly. e fabric with the wrong side facing up. Fold back the fabric inside along the basting.

i catches the fold of the hem. Darning Reinforce points that will be subject to strain. basic (Center needle stitching. and then lower Position the fabric so that the needle slightly the presser foot lever. and position) sewing gathers or darning. Place the fabric to be darned under the for reinforcement. 3 Sew along the fold of the hem. etc. c presser foot together with a fabric underlay a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric d with your hands. make sure that both threads are the same color as the fabric. alternately drawing the Start sewing while gently moving the fabric fabric away and pulling it toward you. b Select the desired length for straight stitch (6). and then remove both the aNeedle bNeedle drop point cFold of hem dWrong side of fabric j Place the darning plate on the needle plate as presser foot and presser foot holder assembly. e filled with parallel stitching. Remove the basting stitching and turn the k fabric right side up. Stop sewing when the portion to be darned is 35 . a shown below. Number on dial 6 Stitch name Application Attaching Straight stitch zippers. For invisible stitching.

which is used for sewing buttonholes. Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot. a b c d Presser foot scale Pin Marks on buttonhole foot 5 mm (3/16 inches) a Mark on fabric b Red marks on the sliding insert e Start sewing. place stabilizer material under the fablic. Sew 5 to 6 stitches. check the stitch length and width by sewing a trial buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric. ● When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics. Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back. 36 . as shown below. a the buttonhole on the fabric. Step Step a (Front end of button hole) Step b (Left side) Sewn portion Use chalk to mark the position and length of 1 Step c (Back end of button hole) a Marks on fabric Step d (Right side) b outside frame back until the sliding insert Attach buttonhole foot “A” and push the reaches the front of the outside frame. are indicated below. Select stitch “a” of the 4-step automatic Making the buttonhole The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”. Stitch name Application Memo ● Before sewing buttonholes. d that the middle of the front chalk line is Position the fabric under the presser foot so directly in the center of the presser foot and aligned with the two red lines on the insert. a Reinforcement stitching c buttonhole (1). Number on dial 1 4-step automatic buttonhole Buttonholes on medium weight fabrics.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— BUTTONHOLE SEWING Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on.

Sew 5 to 6 stitches. l side of the stitching. otherwise injuries may result if the seam ripper slips. and then raise the needle Stop sewing when the needle is at the right by turning the handwheel toward you. and then use a seam ripper to cut towards the pin and open the buttonhole. For reinforcement. Sew the right side of the stitching sewn in step e. and then raise the needle Stop sewing when the needle is at the right by turning the handwheel toward you. 3 Start sewing. k CAUTION ● When opening the buttonhole with the seam ripper. Select stitch “d” of the 4-step automatic n buttonhole until the needle reaches the Start sewing. Do not use the seam ripper in any other way than how it is intended. Raise the presser foot lever. and cut the thread. p stitching to prevent the stitching from being Insert a pin at the end of the buttonhole cut. o fabric. i side of the stitching. remove the 37 . and then sew to the edge of the front bar tack. select the straight stitch (6 through 10) with the desired length. and then sew the length of the h chalk line. g buttonhole (1). turn the fabric 90 degrees counterclockwise. 1 a Seam ripper b Pin Select stitch “c” (same as “a”) of the 4-step j automatic buttonhole (1). do not place your hands in the cutting path. Select stitch “b” of the 4-step automatic 2 Start sewing. and then raise the needle by Stop sewing when the needle is at the left side turning the handwheel toward you. m buttonhole (1).f of the stitching.

Button sewing Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine.2 mm (1/8 inches) 4. c shown below. Then. a Buttonhole fine-adjusting screw Distance between holes 1. Number of dial 2 3 4 Attach the button sewing foot “M”. Place a button between the presser foot and • When attaching four-hole buttons.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Adjusting buitching stitching If the stitching on the two sides of the buttonhole is not uniform. and then select the Measure the distance between the holes in the appropriate zigzag stitch (2. Place the darning plate on the needle plate as ■ If the right side is too tight compared to the left side Use the enclosed large screwdriver to turn the buttonhole fine-adjusting screw in the + direction. and then sew them in the same way. first sew the two holes closest to you.8 mm (3/16 inches) b ■ If the right side is too loose compared to the left side Use the enclosed large screwdriver to turn the buttonhole fine-adjusting screw in the direction. slide the button so that the needle goes into the two holes toward the rear of the sewing machine. a button to be attached. the stitching can adjusted with the buttonhole fine-adjusting screw. Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached. d the fabric. 3 or 4) according to the following table. 38 .6 mm (1/16 inches) 3.

and Pull the upper thread at the end of the then tie it with the bobbin thread. g and then cut the upper and lower threads. leaving a length of 15 cm (6 inches). Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching. h stitching to the wrong side of the fabric. CAUTION ● When sewing. Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine. press and hold down the reverse sewing lever to sew a few reinforcement stitches. return to step a. be sure that the needle does not touch the button. f 3 Start sewing. • After sewing for about 10 seconds at a low speed. otherwise the needle may bend or break. If the needle hits the button. 39 .e (counterclockwise) to check that the needle Turn the handwheel toward you correctly goes into the two holes of the button.

CAUTION ● Turn the handwheel by hand to make sure the needle does not hit the presser foot before you start sewing. When sewing the left side of the zipper. the needle may break and you may be injured. The needle should be Sew from the bottom of the zipper toward the positioned on the zipper side of the foot for best results. Attaching Straight stitch zippers. etc. basic (Center needle stitching. release back of the presser foot. Lower the needle into the notch located either on the left or right side of the zipper foot. e the foot by pressing the button located at the To sew the opposite side of the zipper.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— ZIPPER INSERTION You can use the zipper foot “I” to sew different types of zippers. attach the shank to the right pin of the zipper foot. If the needle hits the zipper. You may also be injured. When sewing the right side of the zipper. Number on dial 6 Stitch name Application d top on both sides. the needle will hit the presser foot and break the needle. CAUTION ● Make sure the needle does not hit the zipper during sewing. 40 . fit the zipper foot on the other side of the zipper and continue sewing using the other side notch. and position) sewing gathers or darning. b left or right pin of the zipper foot onto the Lower the presser foot lever and fix either the shank. a Zipper foot “I” b Right pin for sewing the left side of the zipper c Left pin for sewing the right side of the zipper a Select the desired length for straight stitch (6). attach the shank to the left pin of the zipper foot. If you choose a different stitch. Fold the edge of the fabric 2 cm (3/4 inches) c and place the zipper under the folded section. and can easily position it to the right or left side of the needle.

Cut away any fabric that is left outside the Select a stitch. Number on dial 2 Zigzag stitch 3 Zigzag stitch 4 Zigzag stitch 5 Overcasting and attaching appliqués with the decorative satin stitches. monogramming and embroidering. d stitching. and then remove both the Place the darning plate on the needle plate as presser foot and presser foot holder assembly. Select the desired width. Zigzag (satin) stitch Appliqués You can create an appliqué by cutting a different piece of fabric into a shape and using it as a decoration. Overcasting and attaching appliqués. 41 . e Remove the basting. a b CAUTION ● Be careful that the needle does not hit a pin during sewing. MONOGRAMMING AND EMBROIDERING Zigzag stitches can be used for sewing appliqués.APPLIQUÉ. as the needle can break. Stitch name Application c Carefully sew around the edge of the design. if necessary. You may also be injured. Baste the cut design to the fabric. 3 Memo ● Make reinforcing straight stitches at the beginning and the end of stitching. Monogramming and embroidering a shown below.

When the hoop is moved slowly. CAUTION ● Be sure to keep your fingers away from moving parts. i and sew a few stitches for reinforcing. c design (for embroidering) on the surface of Draw the lettering (for monogramming) or the fabric. fabric with the middle and third fingers. ■ Embroidering Sew along the outline of the design by moving the hoop slowly. e the presser bar. sew to completely fill in the design with stitches by alternately sewing from the outline of the design to the inside and from the inside to the outline. g forefingers of both hands while pressing the Grip the hoop with the thumbs and Memo ● Be sure to keep the stitches close together. d the surface of the fabric facing up inside the Put the fabric in the embroidery hoop with well. especially needles. h Start sewing. the stitches are shorter. and then sew a few stitches to reinforce the stitching.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— b Select a stitch. and support the outside of the hoop with your little fingers. the stitches are longer. Then. 42 . ■ Monogramming Sew the lettering at a constant speed by moving the hoop slowly. Select the desired length for straight stitch (6) Memo ● When the hoop is moved quickly. Place the project under the needle and lower f at the starting position by turning the Draw up the lower thread through the project handwheel toward you (counterclockwise).

Unfold the fabric. They are used to decorate trims. the front of blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics. • For details. etc. Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers. Stitch name Application a Select the desired length for straight stitch (6). Fold the fabric along the bias. c slightly off the edge of the fabric. d Smooth the gathers by ironing them. and then iron the tucks 43 . and increase • For details. Gathering Number on dial 6 Stitch name Application Shell tuck stitching Number on dial 9 Shell tuck stitch Shell tuck stitching The gathers that look like shells are called “shell tucks”. Sew a single or multiple parallel rows of • Do not sew reverse stitches or cut the thread. (Center needle and sewing position) gathers or darning. c stitches.DECORATIVE STITCHING Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine. Loosen the tension of the upper thread (to 3 b about 2). Select the shell tuck stitch (9). a Attaching zippers. refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 26). Sew while making sure that the needle drops d down to one side. refer to “Thread tension” (page 28). Straight stitch basic stitching. b the thread tension.

The elastic stitch can be used in 3 ways: mending. Then. Memo ● Make reinforcing reverse stitches at the beginning and the end of stitching. and then place them under the presser foot with the fabric edges under the center of the presser foot. start sewing the edges of the two fabrics together. ■ Sewing elastic tape Place the elastic tape on the fabric. sewing Elastic stitching elastic tape or joining fabric. 44 . sewing elastic or joining fabric. Each is explained below. Select the elastic stitch (10). and then sew over the tear. ■ Joining fabric Put the edges of the two pieces of fabric together.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Elastic stitching Number on dial 10 Stitch name Application Mending. ■ Mending Place the reinforcement fabric under the tear to be mended. and then sew over the elastic tape while holding the tape both in front and behind the presser foot.

a b Turn off the machine and unplug it. ● Unplug the power supply cord before changing the bulb. ● Sewing machine oil is available at your local sewing machine dealer or service center. 4 Loosen the face plate screw.4 APPENDIX MAINTENANCE Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below. Note ● Hold the face plate securely while removing or attaching it. run the machine for a short time Memo ● Make sure to oil the machine once a week if you use it more than an hour a day. 45 . If you use it more often. ● Do not apply too much oil as it may soil the thread and fabric. Oiling a Changing the bulb CAUTION Turn off the machine and unplug it. c at a fast speed without thread. oil every day. otherwise injuries or an electric shock may occur. c Remove the face plate from the machine. After oiling. Put 2 to 3 drops of oil at each of the points Be sure to wipe any excess oil off the machine. b indicated below.

wipe it again with a dry cloth. a bulb b Loosen c Tighten e again. b then remove the presser foot and the needle.APPENDIX d ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Replace the sewing light bulb. After cleaning it once with a wet cloth. Cleaning the shuttle race CAUTION ● Be sure to unplug the machine before cleaning it. otherwise injuries or an electric shock may occur. a Retaining ring b Latch lever 46 . a Bobbin case latch e ring to remove it. Remove the flat bed attachment and open the Attach the face plate and fasten the screw d toward you and pulling it out from the shuttle Remove the bobbin case by pulling its latch race. lightly soak a cloth in neutral detergent. and c shuttle cover at the front of the free arm. Raise the needle and the presser foot. a Turn off the machine and unplug it. Slide the latch levers out from the retaining CAUTION ● Unplug the power supply cord before cleaning the machine. Cleaning the machine surface If the surface of the machine is dirty. and then wipe the surface of the machine. squeeze it out firmly. otherwise injuries or an electric shock may occur.

f and pulling it out. Attach the bobbin case. Raise the needle and the presser foot. Otherwise. j and push the latch levers back into position. Remove the hook by grasping its center post k the needle before using the machine. a Retaining ring b Driver c Race body h wipe the shuttle race in order to remove any Use a cloth dampened with machine oil to lint. Use a brush to remove any accumulated lint driver and race body. c shuttle cover at the front of the free arm. you may get an electric shock or be injured. hook. Attach the needle plate by using a coin or a Retaining ring b Hook c Latch lever 47 . f screwdriver. Use a brush to clean the lint from the upper Reassemble the hook and the retaining ring. Clean the lint from the shuttle hook in the i same manner as described in step h. a Turn off the machine and unplug it. e part of the feed dogs and shuttle race body. the presser foot and Cleaning the feed dogs CAUTION ● Make sure you unplug the machine before you clean it. b then remove the presser foot and the needle. and Remove the flat bed attachment and open the 4 Remove the needle plate by using a coin or d screwdriver to remove the screws. a Retaining ring b Hook c Hook center post g and thread from the retaining ring.

no adjustment is needed.APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Repacking the machine Keep the carton and packing materials for future use. the bobbin thread may be too loose. IMPORTANT ● This packing material is designed to prevent damage in transit. the thread tension may not be adjusted adequately with the upper tension control dial. For most sewing applications. If it is not packed properly. Note ● Remember to return the screw to its original setting before starting your next project. When sewing with thin thread on thin fabrics. turn the screw clockwise. damage may occur during shipping. a Screw Bobbin case tension adjustment The bobbin thread tension has already been adjusted at the factory for general use. 48 . After you adjust the bobbin thread. adjust the upper thread to match the bobbin thread. the thread tension must be adjusted according to the procedure described below. 1 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on surface of fabric 2 3 5 4 Solution Reduce the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a lower number. In this case. being careful not to over-tighten the screw. Therefore. pack it properly as described below. ● Save this packing material in case it is needed to transport this sewing machine. When packing up the machine again. ■ Bobbin tension is too loose Loops appear on the surface of the fabric. Note ● If the loops still appear on the surface of the fabric after you adjust the upper tension. approximately 30-45 degrees to increase bobbin tension.

the bobbin thread may be too tight. turn the screw counterclockwise being careful not to over-loosen the screw.■ Bobbin tension is too tight Loops appear on the wrong side of the fabric. 4 a Screw 49 . 1 5 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on wrong side of fabric 2 3 4 Solution Increase the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a higher number. Note ● If the loops still appear on the wrong side of the fabric after you adjust the upper tension. adjust the upper thread to match the bobbin thread. After you adjust the bobbin thread. In this case. approximately 30-45 degrees to decrease bobbin tension.

Use the screwdriver to firmly tighten the screw. Lightly guide the fabric. Choose a needle that is appropriate for the type of stitch. 41 page 28 – – The main power switch is turned off. Contact your retailer or the nearest dle plate is scratched. check the following possible problems before requesting service. The sewing machine does not work. You are pulling the fabric too much. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. Use the foot controller properly. – page 19 page 28 page 46 The upper thread tension is too tight. The thread is tangled.Replace the needle plate. The needle clamp screw is loose. The upper thread tension is too tight.APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— TROUBLESHOOTING If the machine stops operating correctly. 50 . 38.brother. How to put it right Plug the machine in. Remove any knots or tangles. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. Turn on the main power switch. Attach the presser foot that is correct for the type of stitch that you want to sew. If the thread is tangled in the shuttle race. If you need additional help. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. the Brother Solutions Center offers the latest FAQs and troubleshooting tips. page 16 The upper thread breaks. Reference page 10 page 10 page 13 page 11 page 20 page 21 page 20 page 19 page 35. Replace the bobbin case. Replace the needle. authorized service center. There are knots or tangles in the thread. The needle breaks. The area around the hole in the presser foot is scratched. You have not threaded the upper thread properly. thread and needle. You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. 36. Loosen the upper thread tension. Loosen the upper thread tension. The bobbin case is scratched. You can solve most problems by yourself. – – page 12 Correct the upper threading. you have not fitted the spool properly. (for example. The needle is bent or blunt. contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center. If the problem persists. The needle is not appropriate for the thread you are using. for example. clean the shuttle race. You have not inserted the needle properly. The bobbin winder shaft is pushed to the right.) Replace the presser foot. You have not used the foot controller properly. 40. You have not used the right combination of fabric. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. Symptom Possible cause The machine is not plugged in. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. or the thread has come out of the guide above the needle. The area around the hole in the nee.com]. in the shuttle race. Remove the tangle thread. Insert the needle properly. Visit us at [http://solutions. The presser foot you are using is not appropriate for the type of stitch that you want to sew. Move the bobbin winder shaft to the left.

You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. Correctly install the bobbin thread. Attach the presser-foot holder properly. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. You have not wound the bobbin thread properly. You have not inserted the needle properly. Bobbin is set incorrectly. Replace the bobbin. Bobbin is set incorrectly. Remove the tangled thread and clean the shuttle race. Correct the upper threading. Wind the bobbin thread properly. The lower thread is tangled or breaks. The area around the hole in the presser foot is scratched. You have not wound the bobbin thread properly. foot holder properly. Reference page 20 page 20 – The area around the hole in the nee. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. The bobbin case is scratched. The bobbin is scratched or does not turn smoothly. The upper thread is too tight. Contact your retailer or the nearest dle plate is scratched. Replace the bobbin case. authorised service center. Replace the presser foot. You have not used the right combination of fabric. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. The upper thread was not threaded correctly. The thread is tangled on the wrong side of the fabric. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorised service center. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. – – page 12 page 12 – page 46 page 12 page 14 page 16 4 Correct the upper threading. Wind the bobbin thread properly. Reset the bobbin thread correctly. The thread tension is incorrect.You have not attached the pressersion is incorrect. The bobbin thread is incorrectly installed. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. page 16 page 12 page 19 page 24 page 28 page 12 page 14 page 14 51 . Adjust the tension of the upper thread. The thread is tangled. You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. or has a burr on it. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine.Symptom Possible cause The needle is bent or blunt. The thread ten.Replace the needle plate. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorised service center. The upper thread breaks. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. How to put it right Replace the needle. Insert the needle properly. thread and needle. You have not threaded the upper thread properly. Reset the bobbin thread correctly.

41 page 28 page 46 page 19 page 46 The fabric does not feed. for example. in the shuttle race. 38. Reference page 14. Replace the needle. 40. The thread tension is incorrect. You have not fitted the spool properly. for example. There is a highpitched noise while sewing. You have not threaded the upper thread properly. You have not threaded the upper thread properly. thread and needle. 36. 16 – page 19 page 20 page 31 page 28 page 16 page 19 page 20 page 46. Replace the needle. If the thread is tangled in the shuttle race. oil every day. clean the shuttle race. Correct the upper threading. Dust has accumulated under the needle plate or in the shuttle race. Fit the spool properly. Change the sewing light bulb. Remove the tangle thread. The bobbin case is scratched. Remove the tangle thread. The stitch is not sewn correctly. page 12 Insufficient oiling. thread and needle. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. The thread tension is incorrect. You have not used bobbin that has been designed for this machine. The needle is bent or blunt. You have not used the right combination of fabric. The sewing light bulb does not come on. Dust has built up in the feed dogs or in the shuttle race. You have not used the right combination of fabric. The needle is bent or blunt. thread and needle. Insert the needle properly. page 33. How to put it right Thread the upper thread and wind the bobbin thread properly. The sewing lamp is damaged. Replace the bobbin case. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. Correct the upper threading. 47 page 46 page 16 – The fabric is wrinkled. page 45 52 . Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. Attach the presser foot that is correct for the type of stitch that you want to sew.APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Symptom Possible cause You have not threaded the upper thread properly or fitted the bobbin properly. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. Clean the shuttle race. If the thread is tangled in the shuttle race. If you are sewing thin fabric. Remove the needle plate cover and clean the plate and the shuttle race. If you use it more often. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. Stitches are skipped. You have not inserted the needle properly. Make sure to oil the machine once a week if you use it more than an hour a day. You have not used the right combination of fabric. The thread is tangled. The thread is tangled. the stitch is too thick. page 45 The presser foot that you are using is not correct for the type of stitch. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. in the shuttle race. Sew with stabiliser material under the fabric. clean the shuttle race.

......................................43 shuttle hook removal .... 22 feed dogs .................................................................................................. 7................................................................6 main power switch ................ 41 zipper foot .......12..........................30 thin fabrics ..................... 14 bobbin winder .............................................................................. needles and threads .................. 40 G gathering ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 12 P R relative chart of sewing fabrics............ 28 thread guide ................................................................. 31 foot controller .................................................................................................................................................................. 26 presser foot .................................................................................................................................................19 shell tuck stitching ................................................................33 stretch fabrics ................8.............. 47 O oiling ...............................................................12 zigzag stitches ............................................................45 overcasting stitches ................................................................................38 buttonhole foot ....8 needle clamp screw .........................................................................................6........................ 28 trial sewing ....................................................................... 21............... 48 reverse sewing lever .......................................33 bobbin ............................. 14 bobbin case .............................................................. 22 upper tension-control dial ................................................................................. 48 upper threading .......................................................... 31 B basic stitching . 12 button sewing ...................................................... 46 D darning .................................................9 appliqués ................................................................................ 30 troubleshooting .16 C cleaning ........................................... 24 presser foot lever ............................................................................................ 44 M main parts .............................................................................................................. 16 pre-tension disk ...........8................. 8........ 41 N needle ........................................................ 37 sewing machine needles .......................................................................................36 T thick fabrics ......................35 E embroidering ...................................32 pattern selection dial ...... 47 flat bed attachment .....8.......... 16 straight stitch ......................................................................INDEX A accessories ..47 spool pin ..................................................................................................................................................................................................... 43 Z H handwheel ..... 28 53 . 50 twin needle ........10 monogramming .......36 buttonhole sewing ...............33 blind hem stitching . 23 presser foot holder .....................8............. 32.........................................32 seam ripper ..............................................31 thread cutter .................................................................... 8.................................................................................47 shuttle race cleaning .................. 19 needle bar thread guide ................27 free-arm style ..................................................28............................. 41 S satin stitching ............................................................... 41 extra spool pin ................................................40 zipper insertion ..... 21 needle plate ...................................................................................................................................................... 19 repacking . 16 thread tension ............................................. 7 J joining ................. 31 F U W winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................30......33 stretch blind stitch ................................. 29..................................................................

English XE4592-001 Printed in China .

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