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No. 43, March - June 2016
No. 43 - 5zł
Culture & Events 18
Maps & Index
Poznań in 24 Hours / 3 Days
Arrival & Transport
City Centre Map
ON YOUR MOBILE
Ah, just about time to start lounging on the grass once again. Hope those stormy clouds aren’t here to stay!
Photo by K Pictures
March - June 2016
As Poznań sheds its winter layers and gears up for the
spring and summer, new opportunities for outdoor
merrymaking blossom. The beer gardens are starting to
creep out, the Citadel Park (p. 62) is suddenly leafy and
green, and the splendid Malta Lake (p. 73) offers almost
unending opportunities for rest and recreation, from a
water park to a mini railway.
IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k.
ul. Sławkowska 12, 31-014 Kraków
Company Office & Accounts
General Manager: Małgorzata Drząszcz, 606 749 676
Accountant: Joanna Szlosowska, 882 079 716
In this issue, we’ve put together a recommended itinerary for
those who have time just for the bare necessities (24h) and
those who want to enjoy the city a bit longer (3 days). On
our list, we offer not only plenty of warmer-weather options,
but also tips for making the most of a rainy weekend.
15,000 copies published 3 times per year
Writers/Editors: Janina Krzysiak, Garrett Van Reed;
Research Manager: Anna Hojan; Researchers: Oliwia Hojan,
Anna Żbikowska; Layout: Tomáš Haman; Events: Maria Rulaff,
Janina Krzysiak; Photography: All photographs In Your Pocket
unless otherwise stated;
Cover © Piotr Gołębniak | dollar photo club
To find out what special events are taking place during your
visit (Jazz concerts? Half-price weekend? Crazy student
festival resembling a mass escape from a mental asylum?),
refer to the Culture and Events section on page 18.
However you choose to spend your visit, we’d always love
to hear your thoughts and anything you’d like to see us add.
You can find us on Facebook (/poznaninyourpocket) or via
old-fashioned e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org.
Sales & Circulation
Monika Szymanek 668 876 351
Warszawa/Łódź Manager: Marta Ciepły 606 749 643
Wrocław/Poznań Manager: Agata Urbanowicz 606 749 642
Gdansk/Malbork Manager: Bartosz Matyjas 784 966 824
Copyright Notice & Editor’s Note
Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP Sp. Z o.o., IYP City
Guides Sp. Z o.o. Sp.k. Maps copyright Agencja Reklamowa POD
ANIOLEM. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be
reproduced in any form without written permission from the
copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under
license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania
tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent
from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to
ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
Turn to page 6 for a conveniently concise rundown of not-tobe-missed Poznań experiences
to help you with planning –
and making the most out of –
your stay here. Depending on
your needs, we’ve compiled a
24h and 3 day version. Photo
by © BestPhotoStudio | dollar photo club
Poznań In Your Pocket
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Traditional Polish Cuisine
STARY RYNEK 55, POZNAŃ
+48 618 510 513
Summer colors in Poznań - the Royal Castle and the Franciscan Church | Photo by BestPhotoStudio - dollar photo club
Poznań in 24 Hours /
At Poznań In Your Pocket, we’re well aware (thank you) that our guide’s greatest
strength - thoroughness - is also its biggest weakness. So here we’ve condensed
our guide down into one article of quick suggestions for those whose time here
Poznań in 24 Hours / 3 Days
24 HOURS IN POZNAŃ
If you’ve only popped into Poznań for a day, perhaps as
a quick side-trip from Warsaw (good choice), there will
be two main things you’ll want to see: the main square
and Ostrów Tumski (Cathedral Island). Both contain an
impressive amount of history, and both can take several
hours if done right.
If you get here in the morning, start your day with breakfast
at Porannik or Projekt Kuchnia (p.41), then meander
through the old-town streets to the heart of the city: the
Old Town Square (p.52). Faithfully rebuilt from WWII
rubble, it’s simply packed with monuments, landmarks,
museums, and mementos from the city’s rich history. While
you’re here, you might want to check out the Arsenał
City Gallery, featuring free, ever-changing contemporary
art exhibitions, and sample some St. Martin’s rogale at
the Poznań Croissant Museum, especially if you’re with
kids). Walk around to examine various statues including
the Bamber Peasant Girl, John of Nepomuk, and the
Pranger (okay, more of a corporal punishment site than
a statue), maybe take a selfie with the technicolor row
of Merchant’s houses - you’ll know them when you see
them - and make sure to be around at noon to watch the
mechanical billy goats emerge from a door above the
Town Hall clock (p. 53) and butt heads while a trumpeter
plays the traditional bugle hall, a Poznań trademark famous
throughout Poland. A quick walk to the Royal Castle (p.54
- most likely still closed for renovation as you’re reading this
guide) might be in order after that, or perhaps a dip into the
beautiful Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus on ul. Gołębia
Should you find yourself in need of a coffee break, Stragan
Cafe (p.40) and Piece of Cake (p.41) are good options; or
just head to ul. Żydowska, the semi-official cafe street, and
see what you can find. For lunch, we recommend Manekin
(p.29) or Ludwiku do Rondla (p.34).
In the afternoon, it’s off to Ostrów Tumski (p.60) for a
crash-course in Polish history. This little island is considered
the likely location of the baptism of Prince Mieszko I,
a place “where Poland began”. Your first stop should
ideally be at the new and highly-recommended Porta
Posnania Interactive Heritage Centre (p.60), where you
can go through a multimedia exhibition explaining the
importance of the Cathedral Island and pick up an audioguide to enhance your sightseeing experience as you visit
the Poznań Cathedral, the Church of the Virgin Mary,
and the Genius Loci Archeological Park.
Soaking up centuries of turmoil and intrigue might just
make you hungry; for good eats close to Ostrów Tumski,
just cross the red Jordan Bridge back to the small but
ancient district of Śródka (adorned with a large, colorful
mural) and head to Wspólny Stół (p.36). If you prefer
something a bit more formal, make your way to Ratuszova
(p.36) on the Old Town Square.
Poland’s most famous goats about to butt heads
Photo by Grzegorz Babicz. Courtesy of City of Poznań
For a few evening drinks, check out the hip party scene at
Off Garbary (p.48), a culture collective located in a former
warehouse courtyard and composed of clubs, bars, and
galleries. If you prefer a calmer vibe, sip some wine at Da
Vinci (p.40), sample microbrews at Brovaria (p.44), or try to
catch a concert at the legendary Blue Note Jazz Club (p.44).
3 DAYS IN POZNAŃ
If you’re hanging around for a bit longer, there’s plenty
more to see. Given that it doesn’t rain, your next must-visit
will be Citadel Park (p.62), a place brimming with history
of the more recent kind: a Prussian fort was built here in
the 1800s, set to became the last stronghold of the Nazis
during the 1945 Battle of Poznań. Now featuring several
military cemeteries, two museums housed in the remains
of the fort, an array of headless cast-iron sculptures named
The Unrecognized, and a splendid rose garden, it’s a place
to both reflect and relax amid the greenery.
Another outdoor destination is the ever-so-popular Lake
Malta (p.73), one of the region’s best recreation zones.
Year-round attractions include a water park, thermal
springs, spa, zoo, and bowling, while in the winter it’s also
possible to ski and ice-skate. If you’d rather take a day-trip
with a historical flavor, an easy option is Gniezno (p.68) the first Polish capital, featuring an impressive cathedral
and the Museum of the Origins of the Polish State, but little
to make you feel the atmosphere of millenium-ago Poland
- conveniently located a short train ride away (30-55 min,
trains run every half hour or so).
Ostrów Tumski with natural mood lighting
Photo by Grzegorz Babicz. Courtesy of City of Poznań
March - June 2016
Poznań in 24 Hours / 3 Days
tel. (+48) 61 852 94 64, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.
poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 6/3zł, Sat free. YUN
ARSENAŁ CITY GALLERY
Founded in late forties under the somewhat commiesounding name Central Exhibition Bureau, Arsenał is
one of the oldest players on Poznań’s art gallery scene.
Currently organised by the Poznań City Council, the
institution hosts exhibitions by Polish and foreign artists,
organises educational meetings, and publishes an online
art magazine called Punkt (Point).QC‑2, Stary Rynek 6,
tel. (+48) 61 852 95 02, www.arsenal.art.pl. Open 12:00
- 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Malta Lake can get quite busy when regattas roll around
Photo by Dariusz Krakowiak
For more of a challenge (and more of a reward), try to access
Biskupin, home to an open-air archeological museum,
where you can imagine you’re king of your early-Slavic camp.
Driving is by far the easiest option to get there; if you don’t
have a car, try to book a tour from Poznań by inquiring at the
Tourist Information Office (Stary Rynek 59/60, C-2 on map).
Located on the north shore of Lake Malta this year-round
facility offers sport pools (one Olympic-sized and another
with a 10-metre diving tower), a water park (a series of 16
pools including a wave pool and children’s play pool) and
13 water slides along with two wild rivers. There is also the
World of Saunas (14 saunas, two of which are outdoors, and
a vapour bath) and, most recently, a full spa complex (Spa
1306) with underground thermal springs, offering therapeutic
and beauty baths, massage, hydromassage, rehabilitation,
Wellness treatments (Turkish Hammam, Rasoul mud bath)
and more from the fully trained staff.QK‑4, ul. Termalna 1,
tel. (+48) 61 222 61 61, www.termymaltanskie.com.pl.
Open 13:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. Prices start at
9zł for sports pools and water spark, 20zł for spa. Y
If the weather just isn’t on your side, there are plenty of
indoor options apart from the Malta Lake Baths: visit the
Bamber Museum (p.58) to find out about one of Poznań’s
historical minority groups, or the 1956 Uprising Museum
to immerse yourself in commie times; have a mystery meal
at the Dark Restaurant (p.38); put your wits to the test
at an escape room (p.71); go see an opera at the Great
Theatre; and definitely try to see if there’s a fair going on
at another of the city’s trademarks - the Poznań Trade Fair
grounds (p.56), even if it’s just an expo of pots and pans or
In short - enjoy your stay, have fun exploring the historical
capital of Wielkopolska!
1956 UPRISING MUSEUM
The Zamek is an impressive building alright, but pride of
place goes to the 1956 Uprising exhibition, honouring the
first armed resistance the communist regime faced. Hidden
down a side entrance this basement masterpiece features
stretchers used to carry the wounded, a tank, a display of
arms and rifles, a room of Socialist propaganda posters, a
typical Poznań family’s flat from the 1950s and a direct copy of
a detention cell. Most poignant of all, though, is the space set
aside for 13 year old Roman Strzałkowski, the youngest to die
in the troubles. Exhibits include his harmonica and domino
set, and newspaper clippings showing Strzałkowski picking
up prizes for his piano skills.QA‑2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82,
POZNAŃ CROISSANT MUSEUM
Considering how much of a Poznań trademark St. Martin’s
croissants are, it’s surprising that a museum dedicated to
them has only just recently popped up in the city. The
Croissant Museum hosts daily shows at 11:10 (the “Croissant
and Goat Show”), 12:30, 13:45 (in English, Sat-Sun during
off-season, daily from July until September), and 15:00;
they include a multimedia presentation, legends, a tour of
the historic museum building, a chance to bake croissants
using traditional tools, and - of course - a tasting.QD‑2,
Stary Rynek 41/2 (entrance from ul. Klasztorna 23), tel.
(+48) 690 07 78 00, www.rogalowemuzeum.pl. Closed
Mon. Admission 16-18/14-16zł.
Poznań In Your Pocket
LET’S MEET IN
place like it
A business lunch, a family dinner,
a date or a beer with friends...
Original dishes from European
cuisine and unique beer brewed
in our own brewery help create
a unique atmosphere for every
Stary Rynek 73-74, 61-772 Poznań, tel. +48 61 858 68 68, +48 61 858 68 78
Arrival & Transport
Photo by Jakub Gąsiorowski, courtesy of City of Poznań.
MAIN TRAIN STATION
Poznań’s main train station (Dworzec Poznań Główny) is
opposite the Trade Fair Centre and about 10 minutes by
taxi to the main square. The site of a massive 160 million
złoty redevelopment project over the last few years, a
new transportation centre has arisen alongside the old
train station building, which integrates rail, tram, and bus
connections in one modern, state-of-the-art underground
transit station. As a result, this is now the point of entry
for most visitors to the city, including those arriving at the
airport and taking the direct bus to the centre, which drops
In this day and age, ‘modern’ and ‘state-of-the-art’ not only
connote sleek, fully handicap-accessible facilities, but the
incorporation of a new shopping mall (with parking for 900
cars), plus dozens of other opportunities for consumerism
and refreshment dotted around the station (welcome to
the 21st century). Other now-standard amenities include
lockers for large luggage (have some coins handy),
currency exchange and bank machines. The city of Poznań
operates a tourist information desk, but there’s also the
PKP-operated Train Station Office (open 07:00 - 21:00),
which can help you plan your trip, get tickets, and even get
Normal ticket windows are conveniently open 24hrs, but
using the ticket machines (which have English options) is
just as easy. If you’re running late, note that it is possible
to buy tickets onboard the train from the conductor for a
10 Poznań In Your Pocket
small surcharge. Check the timetables online at the Polish
railways website - rozklad.pkp.pl - which has limited,
but effective English functionality; if you want a seat on a
particular train, it is best to book ahead.
Taxis await you immediately outside, and a ride to the main
square costs about 20-30zł. Construction work still being
done close to the station means occasional re-routing of
tram lines, but take tram number 5 (to ‘Wrocławska’) or
number 8 (to ‘Pl. Wielkopolski’) from the ‘Most Dworcowy’
stop located on the bridge, and you will only have a short
6-7 minute walk to the main square; a 10-minute ticket will
suffice.QE‑4, ul. Dworcowa 2, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757
(from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs.
Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations
cannot be made between 24:00 - 01:00.
© Tomasz Francuzik; courtesy of City of Poznań
Arrival & Transport
MAIN BUS STATION
At the end of 2013, PKS Poznań Bus Station was integrated
into the city’s spiffy new transportation centre below
Poznań City Centre - more info on which you can find
under Main Train Station, including what amenities are
available, and how to get into town.QE‑4, ul. Stanisława
Matyi 2, tel. (+48) 703 30 33 30, www.pks.poznan.pl.
Ticket office open 06:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00.
Poznań is crisscrossed by 19 tram routes (of which one
runs at night), and 58 bus lines (20 at night). During the
day these run from around 05:00 to 23:00 with trams and
buses running approximately every ten minutes. Tickets are
bought from automated machines found on most buses
and trams, as well as at most transport stops, and the fact
that you can pay by card means you don’t have to stress
about having change. The galaxy of ticket options travellers
are presented with is far too complex to review here; you
can take it to heart that you won’t be leaving ‘Zone A’ unless
you’re travelling far outside of the city-centre, as even Lake
Malta is within Zone A. Tickets are timed, and the cheapest
option is a not-very-cheap 3zł for only 10mins - which
might only get you 3 or 4 stops. A 40-min ticket for 4.60zł
is the safer bet, but if you plan on travelling often, you may
want to consider a 24hr or 48hr ticket. Another option if
you are here for a few days is the Poznan City Card which
gives you free unlimited use of the public transport system
as part of the price. It’ll save an awful lot of headaches. Note
that kids under five and adults over 70 ride for free.
Finally, it is extremely important that you remember to
validate your ticket by punching it in the ‘kasowniks’
found by the bus/tram exit as soon as you board. If you
don’t have a valid ticket and find yourself nicked by a plain
clothes inspector you’ll be fined 140zł on the spot as well
as the cost of the ticket you didn’t purchase/validate; and if
you don’t pay within seven days the fine jumps up to 280zł.
Yes, Poz public transport is a bit of a racket.
POZNAŃ ŁAWICA AIRPORT
Poznań Ławica Airport lies 7km west of central Poznań
and recently opened a new arrivals terminal, with the old
terminal now utilised for departures.
In the new Arrivals terminal you’ll find an exchange bureau
(kantor), cash machine (bankomat), and food vendors, as
well as a tourist info point where you can pick up additional
copies of Poznań’s best guidebook. As with all sensible
airports in this day and age, there is absolutely no left
luggage facility. Calling home is no problem; find phone
booths located before passport control - chip cards to
operate them are available from every newsagent. They’ll
also be able to sell you SIM cards and pre-paid cards for
your mobile phone.
Getting to town is a cinch. Car rental is available, and taxis
stand right outside the entrance - you’ll probably overpay
to take one, however. With taxi rates to the centre rather
ridiculously ranging from 20-50zł depending on the time
of day, it’s hard for us to say how much you should pay, but
you should always agree on a fare with the driver before
Alternatively, cut costs by catching a bus, which will
get you to the centre in 15-20 minutes. From the stop
right outside the entrance, Line 59 heads to Rondo
Kaponiera every half hour from 05:05 to 22:55; Express
Line L (Airport - Main Train Station) sends two buses
per hour from 05:15 - 22:15. At other times the airport
is connected to the train station by night bus 242, which
runs every hour or so between 23:30 and 4:00 (note
the inexplicable gap at 02:00); journey time 21 mins to
Rondo Kaponiera. Single 40-minute tickets (4.60/2.30zł)
can be bought from kiosks, TI or ticket machines;
remember to validate your ticket immediately upon
boarding.Qul. Bukowska 285 (Grunwald), tel. (+48)
61 849 23 43, www.airport-poznan.com.pl.
USEFUL TRANSPORT APPS
Poznań’s tram and bus network is incredibly easy to
use, but if you want to make it even easier, check
out the poznan.jakdojade.pl website and the
jakdojade app for your smartphone. The former
is a great tool for advance planning, but the app is
more practical for figuring out how to get from point
A to B once you’re out in town and away from your
computer. Just type in your starting address (the
app does this automatically) and destination, select
the time you want to depart or arrive, and Jakdojade
magically churns out the best method for you to get
there. Finished at the museum and want to head back
to the hotel? This app will tell you exactly which bus
or tram to get on, lead you to the correct stop, and
even tell you which ticket to buy.
If you don’t have the patience for public transport in
the first place, there’s a nifty app for ordering taxis in
PL: iTaxi.pl. iTaxi allows you to compare rates, arrival
times, car models and more, sending the cab of your
choice to your location without you having to talk to
any dispatchers. Best of all, the drivers register to create
a profile, and are heavily vetted so there’s no funny
business. Download it for free from their website.
March - June 2016
Arrival & Transport
should consider the
Poznań Tourist Card - a
splendid piece of plastic
that entitles the bearer to
free or discounted admission to more than 70 places, plus optional free travel on
the city’s public transport system for a small additional
fee. The card comes a guide explaining how to use it,
which places offer free admission (most museums)
and which offer discounts (a selection of restaurants,
theatres and other attractions such as the zoos, Lech
Visitors Centre and various leisure activities). The card
can also be used in selected places outside of the city,
such as Kórnik Castle, where it is valid for an additional
day on top of the number of days it is valid in the city.
Cards cost 35zł for 1-day (30zł without transport),
49zł for 2-days (35zł without transport), and 59zł
for 3-days (45zł without transport), and can be
purchased from every Tourist Information Centre as
well as a few hotels. Every venue in our guide which
accepts the Poznań Tourist Card has been marked with
a Y symbol.
We don’t like to boast, but we wholeheartedly believe
that Poznań In Your Pocket is the best guide, bar none,
to Poznań and the surrounding region on the market.
Written in a witty, impartial and informative style, here
and on our website - poznan.inyourpocket.com you’ll find almost limitless amounts of info on what to
see and do while in town, plus all the history and cultural
background you could possibly wish for. Best of all, the
information we give here is meticulously updated
every four months so that it is as current and accurate
as we can possibly make it at press time. Even more
importantly, and in contrast to our competition, the
editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is completely
subjective and independent of paid-for advertising
or sponsored listings. Contrary to urban myth, IYP
writers do not accept free meals, sexual favours, firstborn children or other bribes in return for favourable
reviews, and we reserve the right to say whatever we
damn well please about the venues listed in our guides,
regardless of disagreement from advertisers, owners or
the general public. The editor has also done everything
possible to ensure the accuracy of this guide at the time
of going to press, but assumes no responsibility for
unforeseen changes, errors, American spellings, poor
service, unexpected pregnancies, disappointing food or
terrible hangovers. To contact the editor directly, write
12 Poznań In Your Pocket
Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities,
a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure
of getting behind the wheel here. A lethal combination of
poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of
different traffic and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour
result in the common sight of mangled wrecks around the
country. Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the
vehicle in front, rub those rosary beads and God speed.
The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities
(60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban
areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on
motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched
on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit,
replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper
registration and insurance documents. Poland also has strict
drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/alcohol
limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citizens may
use their home driving licences as long as they are valid (and
you have it on you when driving), however citizens of countries
that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and
America) will find their licences technically invalid (though this
has never been a problem for anyone we know).
Driving to Poznań is fairly easy as it’s on the main E30
highway between Warsaw and Berlin. Once you’ve arrived,
driving around Poznań’s congested one-way streets can be
incredibly trying, however, so we suggest you ditch your
vehicle for public transport at the first opportunity, which
raises the question of where to put it.
Public parking lots are marked on the maps in the back of
our print guide, and free parking is basically non-existent,
though some hotels have limited parking spaces for guests;
check when booking your room. For street parking you’ll easily
recognise the universal large blue ‘P’ sign, but be aware that
a blue circle with a red ‘X’ over it means ‘No Parking’ (not sure
which universe that sign is from). Pay via the automated ticket
machines on the sidewalk, but note that they only take coins
or special chip cards from the parking authority office (so
forget that option). Generally having a private car in Poznań is
a bad idea unless you have a safe, inexpensive place to keep it.
The ‘Maluch’ - iconic communist-era family car, and sadly
unavailable to rent.
Arrival & Transport
All you need to rent a car in PL is a credit card and a valid
foreign driver’s licence or international driving permit. Be
aware, however, that citizens from countries that didn’t
ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk America, Australia)
cannot legally drive on their licences and run the risk of
hassle from the police (not that it ever stopped anyone we
know from borrowing their girlfriend’s car, or renting one
for that matter). Enjoy cruising the EU, but don’t try leaving
it in a rental car.
Avis, the global leader in
car rentals, offers short and
long rental cars, vans and
chauffeur-driven vehicles, including everything from
small city cars to shared vans, even hybrids. Over
1,000 models are available - all equipped with air
conditioning, airbags and ABS to ensure both comfort
and safety. Flexible terms of cooperation from experts
in professionalism, convenience and safety. Also at Pl.
Andersa 3 (IBB Andersia Hotel, G-4).Qul. Bukowska
285 (Ławica Airport), tel. (+48) 61 849 23 35, www.
avis.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed
Sun. Telephone line manned 24hrs a day.
Qul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. (+48) 61 849
23 57, www.europcar.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00.
Not the dodgy enterprise it once was, most taxis are reliable
and use their metres without any fiddling around. Calling
ahead should get you a better fare, but if you hail one from
the street make sure you choose a clearly marked cab with
a company name and phone number displayed, as well as
a sticker demarcating prices in the window. Taxis are now
legally obliged to give you a printed receipt at journey’s
end further limiting the likelihood of any funny business.
You should expect to pay 5zł for entering the taxi followed
by 2zł per kilometre. Prices rise on Sundays, holidays, late at
night and for travel outside of the city limits.
Whether or not to tip your taxi driver is a point of contention.
Many Poles do not consider taxis a service that necessitates a
tip and thereby, if you’re Polish, the driver may not expect one.
But double standards being what they are, it’s anticipated that
foreigners will leave a tip, in which case 10% is appropriate, or
simply rounding up the bill. We leave it to you.
EURO TAXIQtel. (+48) 61 811 11 11,
M1 TAXIQtel. (+48) 61 822 22 22, www.taxi.poznan.pl.
RADIO LUX TAXIQtel. (+48) 61 196 62,
ZTP POZNAŃQtel. (+48) 61 196 22, www.taxi.com.pl.
March - June 2016
FACTS & FIGURES
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometres and
is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the
Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely Belarus
(416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km),
Lithuania (103km), the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad
(210km), Slovakia (539km) and Ukraine (529km).
Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite
increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices. Market values as of February 19,
2016 based on €1 = 4.33zł
The river Vistula (Wisła) is Poland’s longest river at
1,047km and flows through Krakow and Warsaw before
reaching the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska). Poznań
sits on the Warta river which reaches the Baltic via the
Odra at Szczecin.
Poland - 38,478,602
Warsaw - 1,735,442
Kraków - 761,873 Łódź - 706,004
Wrocław - 634,487
Poznań - 545,680
Gdańsk - 461,489 Katowice - 301,834
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Poznań it’s 6:00 am in New
York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and
19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts
and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.
HEALTH & EMERGENCY
In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line
or public phone should use the following numbers: 999
for an ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997
for the police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be
forwarded to the relevant department. English speaking
assistance is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the
linguistic capabilities of the operator.
English, German and Russian speakers have the option of
using separate lines specifically designed for foreigners
in distress: dial +48 608 599 999 or + 48 22 278 77 77.
Both numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a
land line and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles
during your stay. The lines are active year round with later
hours during the high-tourist season.
If you’ve woken up to find you’ve got a raging headache, a
swollen foot you can’t put weight on and vague memories
of some kind of calamity, we suggest you sort it out by
calling a private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the
notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private
clinics can be found in the Directory section of our guide.
Further help can be provided by embassies and consulates,
a list of which can also be found in the Directory. If it’s a
financial emergency your hopes will rest on a Western
Union money transfer. Most banks and many exchange
bureaus (kantors) can now carry out such transactions, just
keep an eye out for the Western Union logo.
14 Poznań In Your Pocket
McDonald's Big Mac
0.5ltr vodka (shop)
0.5ltr beer (shop)
0.5ltr beer (bar)
Loaf of white bread
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98)
Local transport ticket (1 journey)
LAW & ORDER
In general Poznań is far safer than most Western cities,
and visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they
simply employ common sense. Petty crime does exist, and
travellers should be on guard against pickpockets; if you’re
in a bar or restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser
pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those
travelling by car are advised to use a guarded car park.
Avoid being ripped off by opportunistic taxi gits by using
clearly marked cabs, something to bear in mind around the
train station and airport. The vagrants and pondlife who
gather around the train station are by in large harmless and
Staying on the right side of the law is significantly easier
for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka are
rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If you’re determined to
make an idiot of yourself then make sure it’s not in front
of the law. In recent years visitors ranging from folks in
Chewbacca costumes to complete fools who’ve thought
it’s perfectly acceptable to drop trousers and urinate in
a city centre fountain have tested the patience of the
local law enforcement. Their tolerance threshold is now
decidedly low so don’t push your luck. Those who do may
well be treated to a trip to Poznań’s premier drunk tank (ul.
Podolańska 46), where you can expect a strip search, a set
of blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling
vagrantsa chastening experience which will set you back
250zł for a 6-24 hour stay. In return for your cash expect
a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and the company of
a dozen mumbling vagrants. Not to mention a hefty fine
(credit cards not accepted, of course).
Other easy ways for tourists to cross cops are by riding
public transport without a ticket (see Arrival & Transport,
Public Transport) and, silly as it seems, by jaywalking.
If you are from a country which doesn’t have or respect
jaywalking laws, you’ll be surprised to see crowds of
people standing obediently at a crossing waiting for the
lights to change. The reason for obeying this little rule is
the fact that the local city police (Straż Miejska) will quite
freely give you a 50-100zł fine for crossing a road at a
place where no crossing is marked or a 100zł fine when
the ‘walk’ light is red. And don’t think you are exempt by
being a foreign visitor. You too are subject to the law and
your non-residency means you will be forced to pay the
fine on the spot.
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the
100zł notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops,
newsagents, public toilets, even the occasional restaurant
or bar will often refuse to break a large note for you. As
annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for such
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and
anywhere with a sign proclaiming ‘Kantor’. Kantors will
often provide better value than the banks in your home
country or the ATM, though for obvious reasons be very
wary of Kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to
tourist sites. Shopping around will reward you with the best
rate. For a list of Kantors in Poznań, see Directory.
Since EU ascension, prices in Poland have been on the
rise, making the country less of a bargain than it was ten
years ago. Having said that, however, prices for food, drink,
cultural venues and transport still remain comparably
cheap in contrast to Western Europe. A ticket to the cinema
typically costs 15-25zł while admission to most museums
costs around 5-15zł.
According to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, 95% of Poles
are Roman Catholics. And though that figure is based on
baptisms and the number of actual practising Catholics is
probably closer to 75% (and falling), Poland remains one
of the most religious countries in Europe. For over one
thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism,
fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions and looking
to Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity.
When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many
turned to the Church for solace and during the communist
era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously
held in churches. The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul
II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is
beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the West
can understand. Those used to the more easy-going habits
of the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving
at first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions
that occur from time to time and the droves that flock to
mass. Tourists should remember while visiting Poznań’s
many churches that these aren’t museums, but active
places of worship to be treated with the requisite respect.
Attempting discourse in the Polish language can be
terrifying and humiliating, but fortunately for you many
Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command
of the English language. Though you can probably get
by without it, learning a few key Polish phrases will
nonetheless smooth your time in Poznań and may even
win you friends and admirers.
On the downside, Polish is officially recognised as one of
the most difficult languages for native English speakers to
learn. On the upside, however, unlike in English, words in
Polish are actually spelled the way they are pronounced.
This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each
letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent
the same sounds as they do in English, below we have
listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic
words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!
‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’
‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’
‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’
‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘
‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’
‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’
‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’
‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’
‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’
‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’
‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’
‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’
‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’
‘r’ is always rolled
Polish Words & Phrases
Hello/Good day (formal)
Good evening (formal)
My name is...
I’m from England.
Do you speak English?
I don’t speak Polish.
I don’t understand.
Two beers, please.
Where are the toilets?
You are beautiful.
I love you.
Please take me home.
Mam na imię...
Jestem z Anglii
Czy mówisz po angielsku?
Nie mówię po polsku.
Dwa piwa proszę.
Gdzie są toalety?
Proszę zabierz mnie
Zadzwoń do mnie!
(Mam nah ee-myeh…)
(Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?)
(Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.)
(Dvah peevah prosheh.)
(Gdjeh sawn toe-letih)
(Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh
(Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)
One ticket to…
Jeden bilet do…
(Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh)
(Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess)
(Yeh-den bee-let doh…)
March - June 2016
Little do most visitors to
Poznań realise, but the
large and historical capital
of Wielkopolska is the likely
birthplace of the Polish state
- in a way. As it happens,
Poznań’s Ostrów Tumski
(Cathedral Island) is a top
candidate for the location
of the 966 baptism of Prince
Mieszko I, Poland’s first ruler
(and also the guy on the 10zł
note). Known as the Baptism
of Poland, this bold move ushered Christianity into the
previously-polytheistic Slavic populace and brought new
importance to Mieszko’s state in the European scene. Other
contenders for the birthplace title include nearby Gniezno,
the first Polish capital (located 50km from Poznań), and the
island of Ostrów Lednicki (located 35km from Poznań) both absolutely worth a visit if you’re interested in Polish
history or archeological sites in general. All three were
strongholds built by Mieszko I, who had a penchant for
warfare, but it was Poznań that became the seat of Poland’s
first missionary bishop, and it was here that the first Polish
cathedral was erected in 968. Known as the St. Peter Basilica,
it served as the final resting place for the early Polish kings,
and its n-th iteration (now called the Archcathedral Basilica
of St. Peter and St. Paul, but commonly known as Poznań
Cathedral) is still standing proudly on Ostrów Tumski.
966: Mieszko I potentially baptised here
968: Poland’s first bishop takes up residence in
Ostrów Tumski, Poznań Cathedral built
1038: City burned down by Bretislaus I,
Duke of Bohemia
1039: City rebuilt by Casimir the Restorer
1253: Magdeburg rights bestowed on the city,
construction of fortifications and castle begins
1534: City scales built
1536: Major fire
1655: Swedish and Brandenburgian occupation
of the city
1704: Battle of Poznań (Northern War)
1793: Annexed by Prussia, becomes ‘Posen’
1806: Napoleon temporarily headquartered in the city
1807: Becomes part of the Duchy of Warsaw
1815: Becomes part of Prussia again
1921: Poznań Fair starts
1918: Wielkopolska Uprising begins
1945: Battle of Poznań
1952: Creation of Lake Malta
1956: Poznań June (workers’ protests)
1999: Becomes capital of the Wielkopolska
16 Poznań In Your Pocket
Workers demand bread during the 1956 Poznań protests.
As a result, Poznań was quickly elevated to the status
of an important religious and political centre, and all
seemed to be going well until the Czech nation attacked,
forcing inhabitants to flee and burning the entire place
to the ground in 1038. Thankfully, it was soon rebuilt by
the appropriately-named King Casimir I the Restorer, but
its days of political greatness were on hold - the capital
had been moved from heavily-damaged Gniezno to faraway Kraków, leaving Poznań to develop as a trade and
commerce hub instead.
The tide turned in 1253, when Przemysł I, Duke of Greater
Poland, granted Magdeburg rights to the settlement
during Poland’s feudal fragmentation, which lasted from
1138 until 1320. As fortifications and the Poznań Castle
sprung up, the focus shifted from now-passe Ostrów
Tumski to the new district centred around the Main
Square. Poznań remained the capital of Wielkopolska
rulers until the 1296 regicide of Przemysł II, when it came
into Władysław I the Elbow-High’s sphere of influence. With
the fragmentation resolved and King Elbow-High on the
Polish throne in Kraków, the city was once again pushed
into political insignificance and stagnation. Development
and progress had to wait for the reign of Władysław II
Jagiełło in the second half of the 14th century and the
beginning of the 15th, whose pro-trade policies brought
the city up to the ranks of Toruń and Lwów.
And yet, the true golden age was still to come. A time
of comparative peace, a change of trade routes, and
favourable law-making caused the city to thrive and
flourish during the Polish Renaissance (1500-1630),
drawing merchants and craftsmen from near and far, who
expanded the city well beyond its original walls. Fires,
floods, and plagues that erupted with a certain regularity
kept things from being completely rosy, but these things
were to be expected in even the most prosperous cities of
the time. All of this idyll came to a crashing halt in 1655,
with what’s known in Poland as the “Swedish Flood”
- a rather savage invasion of the now-benign northern
neighbours. The danger was compounded by their newlyfound allies, the Brandenburgians. First the Swedes, then
the Brandenburgians acted as the city’s occupying force
between August 1655 and August 1657, but they were
ousted by a common uprising, which blockaded the city.
The trouble was far from over, however - undisciplined
szlachta (Polish nobility) and Polish military plundered
Poznań, a support army sent for John II Casimir Vasa
marched through shortly after, adding to the devastation,
and - just for good measure - a bubonic plague breakout
reduced the remaining population to a pitiful level. At this
point in history, more houses in Poznań were standing
empty than occupied, a drastic and macabre change from
the recent golden age. Sadly, the 18th century proved
no better - a succession of armed conflicts including the
Northern War, the War of the Polish Succession, the Seven
Years’ War, and the Bar Confederation all took a heavy toll,
and it wasn’t until 1775 that foreign forces left the city.
Things seemed to be looking up as Boni Ordinis (Good
Order) Committees, organised by King Poniatowski, started
the difficult process of restoring functionality to devastated
Polish cities, but major trouble was ahead for the sovereign
Polish state, as three forces - Russians, Prussians, and AustroHungarians - partitioned the country for good in 1795. It
wouldn’t be until the end of WWI that Poland would regain
independence; meanwhile Poznań had to cope with its
new reality under Prussian occupation.
Doing so didn’t come easy, but Prussia’s war with Napoleon’s
France provided a glimmer of hope. The successful 1806
Wielkopolska Uprising, aided by Napoleon himself, led
to the creation of the Duchy of Warsaw, a short-lived state
which fell to the Prussians again in 1815. A second uprising
by inhabitants of the Poznań Province, in 1818-1819,
secured the region’s safe return to the newly independent
Polish state. During WWII, the region was to be annexed
by Germany again, and much of the Polish and Jewish
populace to be shipped to concentration and forced labour
camps. Towards the end of the war the city was the site of a
key battle between advancing Soviet forces and retreating
Nazis: the 1945 Battle of Poznań. It took a full month to
oust the Germans, and the havoc wreaked on the city was
immense; up to 90% of the historic Old Town was now in
shambles and had to be reconstructed in the post-war
From 1952, the start-year of the socialist Polish People’s
Republic, Poznań saw many workers’ protests stemming
from dissatisfaction with the commie regime; they reached
their peak in 1956, during the tragic Poznań June, a
month of general strikes and street demonstrations brutally
crushed by security forces, during which 57 people lost
their lives. In the 1960s, intensive commie-style housing
development started taking place, and the Warta River
was re-routed to lessen the danger of flooding. Currently,
Poznań is an industry, trade, and tourism hub, regularly
hosting trade fairs and international events at its Poznań
International Fair site.
More than any other major city in the country, Poznań’s
history is tied to the Piast dynasty and the very birth of
Poland. Poland’s first ruling family were the Piasts, and
though the family line goes back to the 8th century we’ll
start with Mieszko I, Poland’s first ruler (he’s the fella on
the 10zł note). Born in 935AD his life generally revolved
around the battlefield, but when he wasn’t leading his
troops into conflict from the Baltic Coast to the plains of
Silesia, he spent most of his time here in Wielkopolska,
specifically his fortresses in Poznań, Gniezno and Ostrów
Lednicki. Baptised in 966 he founded Poznań Cathedral
two years later, a move seen by many as the beginning
of the nation’s Christianisation.
Meanwhile, Adalbert - the first Bishop of Prague - arrived
in Gniezno in search of a quieter life. Soon, however, he
was persuaded out of exile to convert the barbarous
Prussian tribes to Christianity, but his head almost
immediately ended up on a spike. Back in Poz, Mieszko
had been succeeded by his son Bolesław I (find him on
the 20zł note) in 992, who decided he would personally
make the perilous journey to recover Adalbert’s corpse.
Bolesław’s act so impressed the Pope that he sent Otto
III - the head of the Holy Roman Empire - to Gniezno in
1000 to view Adalbert’s remains and meet with Bolesław.
It was during this meeting that an archbishopric was
established in Gniezno, and 25 years later Bolesław had
himself crowned King. Commonly known as ‘Bolesław
the Great’ or ‘Bolesław Chrobry’ the nation’s first regent
is credited with unifying the regions of Poland, as
well as strengthening Poland’s international standing
through his smart diplomacy. Although his son and
heir, Mieszko II, died in suspicious circumstances
nine years into his reign, the Piasts remained in power
and continued to rule Poland for centuries, despite
frequently finding themselves in conflict with the
landowners. Poland’s fragile unity regularly threatened
to disintegrate, and upon the 1320 coronation of
Władysław I concerted efforts were again made to
unite Poland’s various provinces. The work of Władysław
was carried on by King Kazimierz, who would later
be known as ‘Kazimierz the Great’ - he doubled the
size of Poland, stabilised the economy, commissioned
the construction of a numerous castles and forts, and
eventually got himself on the 50zł note. What he failed
to do, however, was have a son (despite the efforts of
four wives), and his death in 1370 marked the end of
the Piast dynasty. Although the royal court was moved
to Kraków in the 11th century the Wielkopolska region
is synonymous with the Piasts and their time at Poland’s
helm. Today, a special tourist route called ‘The Piast
Route’ connects the most important sites integral to
Poland’s early beginnings; for a comprehensive list visit
the website of the Piast Route Tourist Organisation:
March - June 2016
Culture & Events
Malta Festival | Photo by Maciej Zakrzewski
CHARLIE MONROE KINO MALTA
QC‑3, ul. Rybaki 6a, tel. (+48) 605 47 44 99, www.
kinomalta.pl. Box office open from 15 minutes before
the first showtime until the last performance. Tickets
VALSES DE VIENNE
There are a couple things that make Vienna Vienna:
Sachertorte, Schönbrunn Palace, and, of course, the waltz.
Let yourself be carried back to Austria of the Romantic era
by the Budapest Strauss Orchestra & Ballet, a forty-person
ensemble set to perform The Blue Danube, Radetzky
March, Tarantella, and other masterpieces by father and son
Strauss.QA‑1, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9. Performance
starts at 19:00. Tickets 80-160zł. Available at www.
ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska
42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
QK‑5, Galeria Malta, ul. Abpa A. Baraniaka 8, tel. (+48)
61 628 17 24, www.multikino.pl. Box office open from
09:00 to 15 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets 1636zł.
QB‑2, ul. Św. Marcin 30, tel. (+48) 61 852 34 03, www.
kinomuza.pl. Box office open from 14:00, Sat from
11:00, Sun from 12:00 until the last performance. Tickets
QA‑2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82 (Castle Cultural Centre), tel.
(+48) 61 646 52 60, www.ckzamek.pl. Box office open
10:00 - 21:00. Tickets 14-17zł, Tue 11zł.
QE‑3, ul. Dąbrowskiego 38, tel. (+48) 61 847 53 99,
www.kinorialto.poznan.pl. Box office open from 30
minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes after
last showtime. Tickets 10-18zł, 3D screenings 15-20zł.
18 Poznań In Your Pocket
The stubbly-chinned Canadian jazz musician Matt Dusk
has one platinum and two gold albums to brag about: they
are My Funny Valentine: The Chet Baker Songbook, Two
Shots, and Good News, and the man also has had three
number one radio hits. He recently collaborated with Polish
singer Margaret on the album Just the Two of Us, which
came out last November.QE‑4, Poznań International Fair,
ul. Głogowska 14. Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 90190zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary
Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00).
Culture & Events
We loooove symphonic versions of supreme powerhouse
rock and metal hits, so we’re excited for this performance
of Queen’s timeless classics re-imagined by Alla Vienna
Orchestra and Vivid Singers. If you’re not completely into
that, worry not: part two will be pure rock. Actor and singer
Mariusz Ostrowski will emulate the legendary Freddy
Mercury.QA‑1, University Hall, ul. Wieniawskiego 1.
Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 99-119zł. Available at
www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul.
Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
ERA JAZZU: CHICO FREEMAN,
FORTUNA / DYS, DAWID KOSTKA PROJECT
Three (actually four) in one - this April evening will feature
American saxophonist and trumpeter Chico Freeman of the
Freeman jazz family, the Maciej Fortuna and Krzysztof Dys
trumpet/piano duo, and the Era Jazzu 2016 Prize laureate
Dawid Kostka. Let’s see how well these artists will mesh.
QA‑2, Castle Cultural Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82.
Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 100-120zł. Available
at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul.
Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
ERA JAZZU: CHINA MOSES
Jazz storyteller China Moses, owner of quite an unusual
name and a splendid voice, completed two music projects
dedicated to the great dames of blues and soul with pianist
Raphaël Lemmonier, resulting in the albums This One’s For
Dinah (2009) and Crazy Blues (2012). The American artist
lives in Paris and was the French voice of Disney’s Princess
Tiana from The Princess and the Frog.QA‑1, Great
Theatre, ul. Fredry 9. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 80140zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary
Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00).
U2 SYMPHONICALLY: M.PIEKARCZYK,
K.KOWALSKA, R.BRZOZOWSKI, K.DEREŃ,
Symphonic versions of anything and everything are all the
rage currently - what started out with heavy metal moved
on to rock, pop, video game music, and more. So why
not give familiar U2 hits (like “One”, “With or Without You”,
“Pride”, “Sunday Bloody Sunday”) a symphonic make-over?
Polish artists taking part in this music project include Marek
Piekarczyk, Kasia Kowalska, and Rafał Brzozowski.QE‑4,
Poznań International Fair, ul. Głogowska 14. Concert
starts at 20:00. Tickets 70-290zł. Available at www.
ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska
42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
21.04 THURSDAY - 23.04 SATURDAY
ENEA SPRING BREAK
A grand total of fifty artists will be coming together to
make this year’s Spring Break truly great. Two of the guests
you might recognize are Brodka and Dawid Podsiadło; as
for the rest, just let yourself be surprised.Qwww.springbreak.pl. Festival pass 89-100zł. Available at www.
eventim.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska
42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
24.05 TUESDAY - 25.05 WEDNESDAY
ENTER MUSIC FESTIVAL
Photo: Jakub Wittchen
Enter the Enter Music Festival in Poznań’s hip Jeżyce
district! Perfect early-summer relaxation awaits at the
Strzeszyńskie Lake with a yet-unknown line-up of
musicians; previous years’ performers included Gaba
Kulka, Olo Walicki, Możdżer Danielsson Fresco Trio,
Andrzej Bauer, Atom String Quartet, and Cellonet.Qul.
Koszalińska 15 (Jeżyce), www.enterfestival.pl. Full
schedule and ticket prices undecided at the moment.
16.06 THURSDAY - 19.06 SUNDAY
ETHNO PORT FESTIVAL
Photo: Maciej Kaczyński/ CK Zamek
We’re always excited when Ethno Port rolls around, and
you should be, too - the festival means not just music
from around the world (and we mean a legitimately
diverse selection), but also visual arts, literature, theatre,
dance, and cinema. Last year Ethno Port hosted artists
from Senegal, Mali, Portugal, South Africa, Mauritania,
Greece, and Peru, among others, and we can’t wait
to see what’s in store this year.QA‑2, Castle Cultural
Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, www.ethnoport.pl.
Full schedule and ticket prices undacided at the
moment. Check our website for updates.
March - June 2016
Culture & Events
Don’t worry, be happy - Bobby McFerrin is bringing all
his 10-time Grammy-winning greatness to the Poznań
International Fair ground for a hot late-June concert.QE‑4,
Poznań International Fair, ul. Głogowska 14. Concert
starts at 20:00. Tickets 120-260zł. Available at www.
ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska
42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
06.12 SUNDAY - 22.05 SUNDAY
FRAGILE LIKE DRAGONFLIES…
“Fragile” isn’t a word you often hear associated with the
military, but, hey, there’s a first time for everything. The
inexplicably poetic title describes an exhibition of over
500 models of military jets in 1:72 scale gifted to the
Wielkopolska Military Museum by the Rogacki family.
QD‑2, Wielkopolska Military Museum, Stary Rynek 9,
tel. (+48) 61 852 67 39, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 09:00
- 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 7/1-5zł. Sat free.
23.02 TUESDAY - 17.05 TUESDAY
ILLEGIBILITY. CONTEXTS OF WRITING
Various contemporary artists explore the topic of (hand)
writing and illegibility by inventing their own alphabets and
anti-alphabets, playing around with letters and shapes, and
obscuring phrases that might carry meaning.QG‑4, Art
Stations Foundation, Stary Browar, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel.
(+48) 61 859 61 22, www.artstationsfoundation5050.
com. Open 12:00 - 19:00. Admission free.
11.03 FRIDAY - 28.03 MONDAY
DAILY LIFE - SŁAWOMIR KUSZCZAK
Painter and professor at the University of Arts in Poznań,
Sławomir Kuszczak creates colorful, dynamic works filled
with tension. Thus exhibition will showcase some of his most
recent paintings.QC‑2, Arsenał City Gallery, Stary Rynek 6,
tel. (+48) 61 852 95 02, www.arsenal.art.pl. Open 12:00 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
11.03 FRIDAY - 27.03 SUNDAY
NEW IMAGE / NEW VIEWPOINT
This art exhibition will present works by finalists of the
University of Arts in Poznań Art Award competition. See
the next Sasnals and Bałkas before they become famous.
QC‑2, Arsenał City Gallery, Stary Rynek 6, tel. (+48) 61
852 95 02, www.arsenal.art.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sun
12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
17.06 FRIDAY - 28.06 TUESDAY
The biggest summer highlight on the city’s cultural calendar,
Malta has been something of a Poznań institution since its
original conception back in 1991 as the International Theatre
20 Poznań In Your Pocket
Culture & Events
Festival. In the past the festival has seen performances
by Nine Inch Nails, Goran Bregovic, Jan Kaczmarek, Elvis
Costello, Sinead O’Connor, and the Buena Vista Social Club.
Strangely, however, the musical focus is something of a
recent trend. When it started, the festival focused on theatre
alone, and was promoted as the Polish version of the
Edinburgh Festival - full of fringe acts performing abstract
plays. Fortunately, and in spite of the growing pull towards
the mainstream, alternative theatre still plays a huge part in
the Malta Festival. On top of that, there’ll be plenty of film
screenings, workshops, and exhibitions at venues across
town.Qwww.malta-festival.pl. Tickets 0-15zł.
FOR THE KIDS
22.03 TUESDAY - 23.03 WEDNESDAY
THE SNOW QUEEN
There was Frozen, now there’s this ballet-acrobatics-opera
show by Anna Niedźwiedź - re-imagined versions of
Andersen’s fairy tale have really become quite the thing.
The Great Theatre performers will be breathing new life
into the classic children’s story, emphasizing its universal
message.QA‑1, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61
659 02 00, www.opera.poznan.pl. Performances start
at 18:00. Tickets 12-110zł. Box office open 13:00 - 19:00;
Sun 16:00 - 18:00 on performance days only.
01.04 FRIDAY - 11.04 MONDAY
Calling all foodies: for a week this April, you’ll have the chance
to sample special three-course meals from top Poznań
restaurants for the price of 39 PLN each - close to a bargain,
given the usual prices.Qwww.restaurantweek.pl. (39zł).
That’s right, twelve shirtless hunks stripping for a mostlyfemale audience; the Chippendales show has become a
legend since its start in 1979, spawning numerous spin-offs
and legitimising male stripping as classy fun for women of
all ages (the same thing 50 Shades of Grey recently did
for erotica novels).QE‑4, Poznań International Fair, ul.
Głogowska 14, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Event starts
at 19:00. Tickets 119-159zł. Available at www.eventim.
pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open
09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
BOARD GAME THURSDAYS
As 90s kids have grown into their twenties, board games
have become the trendy thing to do during adult gettogethers - just as well. Alternativa Club is now hosting
weekly boardgaming sessions, offering a huge selection
of popular and lesser-known games. So go rediscover your
childhood faves, or let the enthusiastic volunteers choose
something for you.QA‑2, Alternativa Club (CK Zamek),
ul. Św. Marcin 80/82. Event starts at 18:00. Admission
March - June 2016
Culture & Events
19.03 SATURDAY - 20.03 SUNDAY
CAVALLERIA RUSTICANA / PAGLIACCI
Ah, the classic Cav/Pag double-bill: two short operas
involving picturesque Italy and bloody murders. Cavalleria
Rusticana was composed by Pietro Mascagni for an operatic
competition; Pagliacci was Ruggero Leoncavallo’s response,
composed in similar spirit. On the Great Theatre stage both
will be performed in the original Italian with Polish supertitles.
QA‑1, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 00,
www.opera.poznan.pl. Tickets 6-90zł. Box office open
13:00 - 19:00; Sun 16:00 - 18:00 on performance days only.
DIDO AND AENEAS
within the Opera Theatre Laboratory Project
group booking & information:
8:00-16.00, +48 61 65 90 280 / 61 65 228
SOLOIST OF THE METROPOLITAN OPERA
30.03 WEDNESDAY - 31.03 THURSDAY
An opera in three acts by Giacomo Puccini, based on John
Luther Long’s short story of the same title. Poorly received
upon the 1904 premiere at La Scala in Milan, it was
reworked by Puccini to become the huge hit it continues to
be to this day.QA‑1, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48)
61 659 02 00, www.opera.poznan.pl. Performances start
at 19:00. Tickets 12-110zł. Box office open 13:00 - 19:00;
Sun 16:00 - 18:00 on performance days only.
LA SCALA CHAMBER ORCHESTRA
Cameristi della Scala are a chamber orchestra formed by
members of Teatro alla Scala, whose repertoire includes
lots of lesser-known or mostly-forgotten pieces from 19th
century Italy.QA‑1, University Hall, ul. Wieniawskiego
1, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Concert starts at 19:00.
Tickets 159-199zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and
Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
ADAM SZTABA ORCHESTRA
Adam Sztaba is a musical Renaissance man - he’s a
composer, music arranger, producer, conductor, pianist,
and TV personality. In 2005 he started his own pop
orchestra, which has collaborated with stars including
Michael Bolton, Lemar, Helena Vondráčková, and Karel
Gott.QE‑4, Poznań International Fair, ul. Głogowska
14. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 79-199zł. Available
at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul.
Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
30.04 SATURDAY - 01.05 SUNDAY
Poznań is already cheap for guests from the West, but
hey, half price is twice as nice. For one weekend, enjoy
over one hundred hotels, restaurants, museums, and
various attractions for 50% off. Last year, they included the
Croissant/Rogal Museum (forget not that this is the city of
22 Poznań In Your Pocket
Culture & Events
delicious St. Martin’s croissants), the Pyrland Ropes Course,
and free Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu lessons. Check the website for
the full list.Qwww.poznanzapolceny.pl.
09.06 THURSDAY - 12.06 SUNDAY
Juwenalia are an annual holiday for college students - an ageold tradition, but celebrated with undying enthusiasm year
after year. Since they take place shortly before final exams,
they offer the young and restless a last chance to let loose and
party like there’s no tomorrow before hitting the books. There
will be parades, open-air concerts (this year’s line-up still to
be determined), performances and binge-drinking; if hordes
of cacophonous and flashily dressed college students aren’t
really your thing, you might want to get out of the city for a few
days.QŁęgi Dębińskie, ul. Jordana (Wilda), www.juwenalia.
poznan.pl. Ticket prices undecided at press time.
AQUANET JAZZ FESTIVAL
13-18 kwietnia 2016 Poznań
James Blood Ulmer
Deborah J. Carter
D. Kostka Project
Get The Blessing
Fortuna / Dys
POZNAŃ HALF MARATHON
If you’re a runner who doesn’t take vacations, and you
happen to be in Poznań in April, running the Poznań Half
Marathon could be a fun thing to do (not to mention
a good way to see the city from a different perspective).
Best of all, during this time of year you won’t have to worry
about excessive temperatures.Qwww.halfmarathon.
poznan.pl. Event starts at 09:00. Registration fee 90zł.
NATIONAL THEATRE LIVE - THE AUDIENCE
Screenwriter Peter Morgan and actress Helen Mirren are
back, expanding on their acclaimed 2006 film The Queen to
turn it into an equally successful stage production. The play
is directed by Oscar nominee Stephen Daldry (known from
Billy Elliot and The Hours), and will be shown in the original
English version with Polish subtitles.QG‑4, Multikino,
Stary Browar, ul. Półwiejska 427, www.multikino.pl.
Spectacle starts at 19:00. Tickets 35/30zł. Box office
open from 09:00 to 15 minutes after last show.
31.03 THURSDAY - 03.04 SUNDAY
MOTOR SHOW FAIR
Poznań is the city of industrial fairs, and the Motor Show
might be one of the most interesting ones hosted by the
city. See some of the best and newest cars, campers, and
motorcycles. According to organisers, this is the biggest car
show in this part of Europe - presumably Central-Eastern.
We don’t know if that’s true, but the fair is definitely worth
checking out if you’re into automobiles.QE‑4, Poznań
International Fair, ul. Głogowska 14, www.motorshow.pl.
Events start at 10:00. Tickets 15zł. Available at
www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul.
Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
S P O N S O R S T R AT E G I C Z N Y
PAT R O N AT
W S P Ó Ł P R AC A I M E D I A
March - June 2016
For delicious fresh seafood in a casual atmosphere, visit Restauracja Momo (p.30).
Poznań might have a reputation as an international
centre of commerce, but its restaurant scene has only
recently started taking off, with a scattering of world-class
restaurants and an increasing number of good ethnic
options. While In Your Pocket once listed every venue
in the city, the explosion of the market and its sheer
redundancy now makes that pursuit impossible. Our print
guide carries a wide selection of what we feel are Poznań’s
most noteworthy restaurants, however there are many
more listed on our website (poznan.inyourpocket.com)
where we encourage you to leave your own reviews of the
places you’ve visited. All our reviews are updated regularly,
completely subjective and unsolicited. The figures we
quote in brackets represent the cheapest and costliest
main courses on the menu. The opening hours are verified
as we send this guide off to the printer, but keep in mind
that they’re subject to change. Where the venue is not on
our map we have
included the district where it is located in brackets. Below
is a selection of recommendations depending on what you
may be looking for.
Any ‘best of’ list in Poznań is invariably going to see a slew
of nominations for Blow Up Hall 5050 (International),
where you’ll find very modern versions of Polish cooking
in an impossibly cutting edge neo-industrial setting.
For upmarket close to the market square, try Delicja
(International), or for something out of the centre the
daringly modern SPOT. (International).
24 Poznań In Your Pocket
Restauracja MUGA (International), and its attached Casa
De Vinos wine bar (p.47), is the perfect place to impress
your date, while Figaro (Italian) is so over-the-top you
half expect to be served by Cupid himself. For something
completely different, think of all the naughty things you can
do under the table in the pitch black of Dark Restaurant
The market square’s Ratuszova is the best Polish food
you’ll find in Poznań, in one of the most elegant interiors
you’ve ever eaten in. In contrast, Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem
and Wiejskie Jadło do traditional interpretations of Polish
food in rustic environs, while the hip Yeżyce Kuchnia gives
Polish cuisine a modern makeover.
For a speedy but tasty meal that will leave you with more
time to sightsee, try the dizzying selection of crepes at
Manekin, a highly-customized burger at Wagon Mięsa,
a quiche or two at Francuski Łącznik, or any of the
vegetarian listings on p.38.
In addition to our Vegetarian listings on p.38, don’t
miss hip locales like Pracownia (Fusion) and SPOT.
(International) for gluten-free and vegan dishes. If it’s
Polish food you’re after, Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem will
adapt any of their dishes exactly to your dietary needs
G No smoking
6 Animal friendly
N Credit cards not accepted
S Take away
U Facilities for the disabled
V Home delivery
X Smoking room available
E Live music
W Wi-fi connection
Some baulk at the prices, but there’s no escaping
that Someplace Else is the full monty - here’s a place
that gets both food and drink completely right, with
a largely American/Tex-Mex menu hitting points for
the best burger for miles - sometimes that’s just what
you need. The diner design is straight out of road-trip
USA, and a great spot for ties-off, after-office chow
and beers. With 9 TVs, this is also one of your best bets
for catching that match - be it European or American.
QE‑3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel.
(+48) 61 655 20 00, www.poznan.someplace-else.
pl. Open 17:00 - 00:30, Sun 17:00 - 23:30. (15-80zł).
No doubt about it, gourmet burgers have taken Poland
(and a fair share of Europe) by storm. Wagon Mięsa (Train
Car of Meat) is one of the better places you can go for
your burger needs, serving both elaborate quadruplemeat-layer creations the size of your arm and the biggest
selection of veggie burgers we’ve seen (seven at last count)
in an urban, metro-themed interior, complete with graffiti.
QD‑1, ul. Szewska 20, tel. (+48) 512 35 73 40. Open
13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. (15-20zł). 6UN
BISTRO LA COCOTTE
Only a stones throw from Stary Rynek, what was once
a location known for late night ex-pat drinking sessions
(under the auspices of ‘The Vikings’ and ‘Murna’) has
managed to re-establish itself as a rather excellent French
bistro specialising in fresh ‘fruits de mer’ and duck confit.
The small, but cosy interior makes it plenty inviting, but
the outdoor summer garden is the real reason to visit in
warmer months. Why battle for seats when you can enjoy
fresh mussels and a carafe of fine French wine in a relaxed
atmosphere before entering the bright lights of the square?
Well recommended.QC‑2, ul. Murna 3a (corner of ul.
Kozia), tel. (+48) 600 44 17 69. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (2546zł). TGSW
March - June 2016
ul. Podgórna 6
tel. +48 61 850 14 20
There might be cafes for coffee, pizzerias for pizza, and
pierogarnias for pierogi, but what about a quicheria for
quiches (and tarts)? That is the business model Francuski
Łącznik (The French Connection) went for, and it seems to
be working. If you like a good crust-based treat and can
enjoy Louis-whichever style of furniture, this might just be
heaven.QD‑1, ul. Dominikańska 7, tel. (+48) 509 50 97
27. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (10-20zł).
DRUKARNIA SKŁAD WINA & CHLEBA POZNAŃ
Despite being within spitting distance of the Rynek,
Podgórna isn’t the most fashionable street in Poznań,
so we were pleasantly surprised to discover this trendy
eatery and cafe. Fresh sourdough bread is baked before
your eyes in the minimal-chic interior, and the menu
comprises not only a range of sandwiches, soups, and
appetisers to complement the bakery, but also a full card
of rich and colourful fusion creations to complement
the upmarket tastes of the wine list. Everything from
the kitchen looks like it could be featured in a food art
magazine (in fact they sometimes offer workshops on
food photography), and overall Drukarnia is evidence of
just how far the city’s culinary scene has come on in the
past few years. New artwork (available for sale) appears
on the walls every month or so.QC‑2, ul. Podgórna 6,
tel. (+48) 61 850 14 20, poznan-drukarnia.pl/pl. Open
07:00 - 22:00, Thu 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat
11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (15-79zł). T6G
Traditional Polish Cuisine
Top class dining in the Sheraton’s showpiece restaurant.
Chic and sexy: this is designer dining the way it’s meant
to be with inventive dishes like Thai-style noodles
appearing from out of the open kitchen. Floor-to-ceiling
windows allow for plenty of light, as well as views of
the proletariat scurrying to work. Also of interest is their
intimate Wine Tower, which can be booked in advance
for up to 4 people to enjoy a menu created with the
chef and over 60 types of wine.QE‑3, ul. Bukowska
3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20
00, www.fusion-poznan.pl. Open 06:30 - 11:30, Sun
07:00 - 11:00, 13:00 - 17:00. (29-130zł). TYUG
Sous - Vide beef sirloin steak in cracked pepper sauce
STARY RYNEK 55, POZNAŃ
+48 618 510 513
26 Poznań In Your Pocket
MYKONOS GRECKA TAWERNA
Relive your Mediterranean summer at this Greek owned
joint. Blue and white interiors come adorned with pics of
Greek beach scenes and scale models of fishing vessels
while the menu is a romp through classics like souvlaki and
lamb ribs.QB‑2, Pl. Wolności 14, tel. (+48) 61 853 34 36,
www.tawerna-mykonos.com.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (28-56zł). TGSW
Regular readers of our Poznań guide will know that
the city has had some issues with ethnic food over
the years, none so much as Indian. Not here though.
If it’s Indian you want then this is the recommended
place in this city, though because of the paucity
of the competition that’s not the plaudit it might
sound. Lunches from 11:30-15:30 Mon-Fri include
a 19zł vegetarian option and an 24zł meat option.
QA‑2, ul. Mielżyńskiego 16/3a (entrance from
ul. 27 Grudnia), tel. (+48) 61 855 75 57, www.
restauracjaindyjskashivaz.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:30,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (24-34zł). VG S W
Overlooking Lake Malta, 3 Kolory is a bright, modern and
welcoming restaurant which is definitely worthy of a visit
despite its location on the far side of the lake. The menu
caters to all tastes (salads, fish, steaks, pizzas) and the
dishes are so beautifully presented (steaks served on cedar
planks!) that it’s almost a shame to have to eat them. But
don’t let that stop you. The food is cooked via the sous
vide technique (low temps) and on grill stones to create
unique flavours. The karkówka steak would be our personal
recommendation, but to be fair every dish being brought
out of the kitchen looked tempting and a return visit is
certainly on the cards. 3 Kolory recently opened another
location at Obornicka 55a (Suchy Las), where they serve
lunch meals.QK‑4, ul. Wiankowa 3, tel. (+48) 501 40
28 27, www.3-kolory.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00
- 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. (20-69zł). T6VG
AVOCADO RESTAURANT & WINE
Misleadingly, the amount of avocado-based offered by this
higher-end restaurant is exactly zero; but you might find
some avocado on breakfast toast, an avocado smoothie,
or perhaps a starter, depending on the seasonal menu.
But perhaps there’s no use in wishing for more, as the
remaining avocado-less dishes are delicious, too. Off the
tourist path and hidden in a Jeżyce courtyard, this bright,
modernly decorated spot is well worth seeking out if you
get hungry while exploring the neighbourhood.QE‑3,
ul. Dąbrowskiego 29, tel. (+48) 61 307 14 45, www.
avocado-poznan.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Mon, Sun 12:00
- 20:00. (19-40zł). TGSW
BLOW UP HALL 5050
Blow Up 5050 is a combination of gastronomy and art
that will blow your socks off. The name is a combination
of the 1966 Antonioni thriller combined with the owner’s
philosophy of making all her enterprises 50% art and 50%
business. Complementing the award winning hotel and
bar is the restaurant, where prices are at the very top end of
the Poznań market - as is the quality. The seasonal cuisine is
Join us for
Immaculate buffet with Mediterranean
and Polish specialties.
Dishes prepared by our chefs based on
your individual preferences.
Every Sunday from 1 PM until 5 PM.
130 PLN per person.
Discounts for children.
Fusion Restaurant (Sheraton Poznan Hotel)
ul. Bukowska 3/9, Poznan
phone 61 655 2000
March - June 2016
superb and the surroundings will leave you feeling you’ve
become part of a living art exhibition, making it a truly
unique experience in Poland, and perhaps even Europe.
QG‑4, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 61 657 99 90, www.
blowuphall5050.com. Open 14:00 - 22:00. (20-130zł).
Go formal and pick the right hand room for a smoothly
subdued dining area or else do as the rank-and-file and
head either to the brewing hall outback, the bar to the
side, or the al fresco terrace. Brovaria have something
for everyone, with the premium prices reserved for a
tender fillet steak served with a separate bowl of swirly
mashed potato. Or consider tucking into the beer feast essentially a huge platter piled inches high with a mix of
seafood and meat. Not for nothing have Brovaria been
crowned king of the expatriate scene.QC‑2, Stary Rynek
73-74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.
brovaria.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (2364zł). TGSW
A long-standing editorial favourite, thanks to their
willingness to buck trends and try something different.
The design is what you would call post-industrial and the
clientele sharp-dressed and out to impress. The food comes
beautifully presented by efficient staff and the menu
features some truly mouth-watering options. There’s now a
live cooking station and Family Sundays with a supervised
play area and kids’ workshops, so check out what’s on
beforehand.QE‑3, ul. Zwierzyniecka 3, tel. (+48) 61 667
44 19, www.concordiataste.pl. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sat
09:30 - 22:00, Sun 09:30 - 20:00. (18-69zł). TUG
Climb up the steps and enter what is one of the city’s more
innovative and fresh-looking restaurants. The light and
airy wood-filled rooms make it a great place to drool over
the menu (while we weren’t able to sample everything
this time, the pork tenderloin with chanterelle mushroom
sauce has certainly given us an excuse to return) and a
great little kids area allows you to enjoy your meal in peace.
QE‑3, ul. Dąbrowskiego 42 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 797 99
79 95, www.dabrowskiego.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri
10:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (1862zł). T6GSW
Poznań fine dining doesn’t get better than this. Winner
of countless accolades, Delicja serves a combo of
Mediterranean and Polish recipes including superb lamb.
This definitely falls at the upper end of the food chain,
and the interior comes filled with silver candleholders,
immaculate linen, and live classical music - check online
for the concert schedule.QB‑2, Pl. Wolności 5, tel. (+48)
61 852 11 28, www.delicja.eu. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (4885zł). 6EGW
28 Poznań In Your Pocket
Tucked away deep inside the IBB Andersia Hotel, Flavoria
isn’t the type of place you just stumble across by
accident. But those willing to sniff it out will find a smart,
modern restaurant with a good mixture of international
cuisine ranging from standard breakfast buffets (06:30
- 11:00 daily) to more sophisticated evening dishes
like rabbit stewed in cream. With daylight streaming
through the large windows by day and dim candlelight
during dinner, Flavoria is one of the city’s more formal
restaurants, ideal for business lunches and other such
upmarket eating occasions.QG‑4, Pl. Andersa 3
(IBB Andersia Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 667 80 81, www.
andersiahotel.pl. Open 06:30 - 11:00, 13:00 - 23:00.
LAVENDA GASTRO & CAFE
There are a slew of cosy little cafes dotted around the
back streets of Stary Rynek, and competition is indeed
tough; Lavenda slots right in there with the very best
of them, though. A relaxed atmosphere and a great
array of hot drinks, wines, and light food make this the
perfect place to share a lunchtime coffee or to meet for
an intimate first date. Breakfast is served daily between
08:00 and 12:00 and lunchtime goes from 12:30 until
16:00.QD‑2, ul. Wodna 3/4, tel. (+48) 61 852 49 95,
www.lavenda-cafelunch.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Thu,
Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. (14-34zł).
Mickiewicza 9, Poznań
Phone: +48 728 442 165
An excellent place to indulge in some fine food whilst
taking in the sights and sounds of Stary Browar. A modern
and classy interior is matched with a spot-on menu which
uses fresh, organic ingredients. As well as serving up
breakfasts, salmon fillets, pizzas, and pastas, the bread is
cooked on-site and their home-made jams will leave you
licking your lips and wanting more. In the warmer months
you can enjoy your lunch in the garden terrace.QG‑4, ul.
Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 667 15 44,
www.le-targ.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.
Some places just seem to get it spot-on and Manekin is
one of them. Set over three levels, this is crepe/pancake
heaven and offers all the usual options plus more maverick
choices like chicken curry, or camembert, raspberries and
almonds. With almost 100 different fillings to choose
from you won’t be going home disappointed, providing
you can find yourself a table as, despite being huge, this
place is usually packed to the rafters with happy punters
who know a good deal when they see one. The quirky and
homely interior (with zany lamps, murals, and - of course
- mannequins) also makes eating here feel more like a
proper restaurant experience than an eat-and-run.QC‑3,
ul. Kwiatowa 3, tel. (+48) 61 222 00 01, www.manekin.
pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. (4-17zł).
PASSION FOR FOOD
Wodna 3/4, 61-781 Poznań
Phone +48 61 852 49 95
March - June 2016
EASTER IN POLAND
Palm Sunday (March 20) marks the official beginning
of Poland’s Easter festivities – perhaps the country’s
most sacred holiday. Leading up to the season you
will see decorative handmade palms for sale all over
Poznań’s market square. These traditional decorations
are made from a variety of dried flowers and plants, and
taken to church on Palm Sunday to be blessed before
decorating Polish homes until the end of the season.
As a deeply Catholic country, Poland takes its Easter
(Wielkanoc) celebrations seriously; throughout the
period, the visiting foreigner can expect bars and
restaurants to be either empty or closed beginning on
Good Friday (March 25). On Easter Saturday (March
26) Poles, typically children, bring brightly decorated
baskets of food to church to have these blessed as well.
These baskets traditionally contain a piece of sausage,
bread, egg, poppy-seed cake, some salt, horseradish
and a ram made out of dough - each of which has a
symbolic meaning, of course. In addition ‘pisanki’ are
included - painted boiled eggs which have been
prepared in the lead-up to Easter by the whole family.
Rezurekcja (Resurrection), a traditional mass with
procession, is held Saturday night or Easter morning
depending on parish tradition. On Easter Sunday
(March 27), families gather together to celebrate with
Easter breakfast from their Easter baskets, accompanied
by żurek (Polish rye soup) and other traditional foods.
Each person places a small piece of the blessed food
on their plate before exchanging wishes with other
members of the family. The symbolic dough ram is
placed on the table to symbolise the resurrection of
Christ. Things thankfully take on a more lighthearted air
on Easter Monday (March 28). Known as ‘Śmingus
Dyngus,’ the day is dominated by public water
fights and everyone is given carte blanche to drench
anyone they see with water. As a foreigner, you are
not exempt from this practice, so move fast if you see
someone armed with a water pistol or bucket and a
grin. Although it’s never pleasant to have a jug of water
thrown over your head, this is an improvement from the
past when young people were beaten with sticks from
Palm Sunday trees. Apparently either will bring you luck.
30 Poznań In Your Pocket
Some of the best buildings on Poznań’s Old Market Square
are the old Merchant Houses and that’s exactly where you’ll
find Pod Pręgierzem. For years this was Post Office Cafe,
but a recent transformation has seen it aim towards those
looking to grab a quick bite rather than a cup of coffee. The
menu boasts plenty of breakfast options (from ‘continental’
to ‘full English’) and traditional Poznań meals like ham hock
stuffed with mushrooms. Soft music, cheery staff, and walls
decked out in photos paying homage to some of the city’s
finest buildings make this a fine choice. There’s even a kid’s
play area downstairs which kept us entertained while we
were waiting for our soup.QC‑2, Stary Rynek 25/29, tel.
(+48) 61 855 00 06, www.podpregierzem.pl. Open 09:00
- 21:00; Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (16-39zł). T6SW
Poznań’s culinary scene has come on leaps and bounds
over the last couple of years and nowhere is it more evident
than here. Located in the heart of the city’s bustling Stary
Browar shopping centre, Projekt Kuchnia provides a sleek,
sexy environment in which to enjoy some of the finest
food around town. Oh, and did we mention that much of
it is organic, vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free, or dairy-free?
Though the menu doesn’t discriminate against carnivores
by any stretch, those on a special diet will find their
Shangri-La here, and their foodie friends will be glad they
tagged along. The top quality extends from the breakfast
menu to the wine list, and if you’re browsing around the
Old Brewery, you can stop your search for the best place
to eat - this is it.QC‑3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar
Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 606 99 29 99. Open 09:00 21:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (2970zł). TUGSW
Taking over from the well-loved Muchos Patatos, Momo has
a lot to live up to, but plays it off deftly. Pasta dishes, steaks,
and salads are all on offer, but it’s the fresh seafood that
really stands out with delightful and imaginative dishes
created daily. The chef changes the first page of the menu
each morning, and the friendly staff is more than willing
to top up your wine glass. With plenty of rooms to choose
from, we prefer the room to the right with the menu
plastered on the wall, but for something a bit more relaxing
head to the back where you can park yourself down in one
of the colourful couches and let off some steam - a perfect
stress-free zone.QD‑1, ul. Szewska 2, tel. (+48) 501 41 51
36. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (30-70zł).
Located right next door to Casa de Vinos wine bar (just
step through the glass door), MUGA has managed to serve
up a perfect mixture of fine European food, great service
and excellent wine. The seasonal menu rivals anything
else we’ve sampled and the bright, well-lit interior makes
for a warm and inviting stay. Though veering towards the
higher-end of the scale, stop in for lunch (served Mon-Fri
13:00 - 15:30) to get a starter, entree and coffee or water
for 45zł. A perfect spot for courting couples, business deals
and those looking to impress, first-daters should head
to the far corner where intimacy is almost encouraged.
QC‑3, ul. Krysiewicza 5, tel. (+48) 61 855 10 35, www.
restauracjamuga.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
Fashion, design and cuisine collide at SPOT, a unique
shopping complex set inside the beautifully restored late
19th century Wilda power station, which is surrounded by
a lovely green park. Home to several shops and services,
including a fashion boutique, hairdresser, spa and photo
studio, it all serves as mere garnish for the excellent
restaurant, which should be your main motivation for
visiting. Sporting a smart post-industrial swagger with
monochrome colours, exposed bricks and retro kitsch
decor, the atmosphere is inspired and the menu offers
sophisticated European cuisine accented by exotic Asian
flavours, including vegetarian and gluten-free dishes. With
Belgian lagers, a large selection of wines and their own
sommelier, this is Poznań at its cutting edge best.QG‑5,
ul. Dolna Wilda 87, tel. (+48) 61 835 88 40, www.spot.
poznan.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun
11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. (28-61zł). TYUGSW
We specialise in international cuisine
without any boundaries - original
imaginative dishes created daily.
Above all we fell in love with fish and
seafood. Seafood platter, pot of
mussels, tuna steak and lobster
are our specialities.
This Hotel Moderno restaurant is so spacious that they
actually have a row of full-sized palm trees smack dab in the
middle - enough to make you feel like you’re on some exotic
getaway. Their specialty is steaks from Argentine beef grilled
to perfection on a lava rock barbecue.QE‑5, ul. Kolejowa
29, tel. (+48) 61 664 66 02, www.hotelmoderno.pl. Open
12:30 - 24:00. (31-249zł). TUGW
Named for their house specialty, pig ears, this locale revels
in strange food combinations, painstakingly pairing them
with matching cocktails. A club operates in the basement,
staying open until 2 in the morning; the music of choice is
house, nu-disco, and funk.QB‑3, ul. Piekary 12a, tel. (+48)
606 13 96 10. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (1429zł). TGW
The previous “smallest restaurant in Poland” has expanded
due to popular demand, but they still serve intriguing
dishes like flax seed pancakes and “meat in clay,” which are
meant to echo the cuisine of centuries ago in Ostrówek,
where the restaurant is located. You’ll also notice it’s one of
your only eating options in the area around Ostrów Tumski.
The brainchild of the Dark Restaurant folks, it’s unlikely you
will leave unsatisfied, and the dishes themselves will be
worthy of photographs.QI‑3, ul. Ostrówek 6, tel. (+48) 61
875 09 34, www.vinebridge.pl. Open 12:30 - 22:00, Sun
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. (20-45zł). T6GSW
Address: Szewska 2, 61-760 Poznań
Reservation: +48 501 415 136
MOMO love at first bite
March - June 2016
WERANDA LUNCH & WINE
Weranda is a restaurant worthy of its setting at the
confluence of the old and new portions of the vast
Stary Browar shopping centre, with an open two-story
skylit space (what the hell are those colourful things
hanging from the ceiling?) that is breathtaking even in
a building that’s known for its architecture. If upscale
mall dining exists then Weranda has perfected it, with
a dish of the day (27zl from 12:00-16:00) that can be
anything from pasta to grilled meat to whatever strikes
the chef’s fancy. All of it can be paired with wine,
easily making shopping an afterthought.QG‑4, ul.
Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 859 69 69,
www.werandafamily.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Thu,
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:30, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (30-42zł).
Welcome in a real
BAR A BOO
Looking for Poznań’s best pizzeria? Look no further. To be
honest, labelling this place a pizzeria is a bit of a cop out
as the menu also offers up breakfasts, macaroni dishes,
and salads, and the smart, elegant interior rivals some of
the city’s better restaurants. A good mixture of wines to
order by the glass or bottle and plenty of beers and spirits
mean that if you’re coming here to line your stomach, the
inevitable ul. Taczaka pub crawl may kick off later than you
planned.QA-2, ul. Taczaka 11, tel. (+48) 61 883 43 15,
www.baraboo.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Mon 10:00 - 23:00,
Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (10-30zł). TUG
Romantic repasts and serious business dinners take
place amongst these starched tablecloths and vases
of flowers. Prices are steep, but well within the
spending power of most Western visitors. Diners can
choose from a large list of pastas, beef tenderloin,
veal and an expansive wine list. What Figaro is famous
for though is its fresh fish and seafood, which is said
to be among the best in the city. Those wanting to
really push the boat out may wish to take advantage
of the restaurant’s VIP room, which can be hired out
for those extra special occasions.QC‑3, ul. Ogrodowa
17, tel. (+48) 61 856 01 89, www.restauracjafigaro.
eu. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. (28-80zł).
TG S W
ul. Św. Marcin 34
Reservation: +48 61 85 25 333
32 Poznań In Your Pocket
Poznań has more than its fair share of Italian restaurants,
but few command more confidence and sophistication
than Lugana. Suitably located inside the modern City Park
complex, Lugana features a smart, simple interior and
lovely seasonal terrace, beset with wine glasses waiting
to be filled with their signature Lugana vintage. Activate
your taste buds with original dishes that not only delight
the senses, but impress the eye with their outstanding
presentation - octopus carpaccio, clam soup, ravioli with
beef and chestnuts, beef tartar with truffles, tiramisu,
panna cotta... We were impressed, and so will be anyone
you’re wise enough to make a reservation for here.Qul.
Wojskowa 4 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 307 05 02, www.
lugana.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (2174zł). TUGSW
An interior of polished woods, potted palms and crisp linen
is the backdrop for one of the best meals in Poznań. The
waiters are immaculate, the cooking creative. The prices
can be steep, but you’re rewarded with excellent lamb, and
seafood choices.QE‑1, Al. Wielkopolska 42, tel. (+48) 61
852 87 45, www.milano.poznan.pl. Open 12:30 - 23:00,
Sun 12:30 - 19:00. (18-130zł). TGS
This charming Italian venture sets itself apart by letting
the food speak for itself with simple dishes that will knock
you out. We aren’t kidding about the simple - your pasta
can be as basic as spaghetti noodles with olive oil, garlic,
tomatoes, and parmesan, and in your snobbier moments
you might think it sounds like something you could easily
do at home. You can’t. Even the straightforward grilled
veggies seem elevated somehow. An Italian restaurant
delightfully free of cliché, but full of flavour; stop by during
lunch (Mon-Fri 12:00 - 17:00) for some savings on your bill.
QB‑2, ul. Św. Marcin 34, tel. (+48) 61 852 53 33, www.
mollini.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (2050zł). TGSW
ul. ogrodowa 17, 61-821 Poznań
tel. +48 61 856 01 89
PIANO BAR RESTAURANT & CAFE
Attached to the side of the Stary Browar shopping mall,
Piano Bar rates as one of the top options in Poz. The
background aesthetics are fantastic, with cream shades
paired with moody lighting and striking art exhibitions.
Although you’ll find all the expected Italian pasta and
Mediterranean dishes, it’s the fish that tends to steal the
show here, which is something of a boon in landlocked
Poznań.QC‑3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping
Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 65 70, www.pianobar.poznan.
pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (28-140zł).
GOKO RESTAURACJA JAPOŃSKA
Goko should shorten their name to Go: it’s good, and
that’s all you need know. Since relocating to ul. Pasaż
Apollo, Goko has become the one-and-only destination for
traditional Japanese meals, serving fresh fish and sushi in
stylish surroundings, supplemented by a fantastic garden.
Can’t decide what to order? Discounts apply to various
dishes and drinks depending on when you visit - ask the
staff for recommendations, then sit back and enjoy Poznań
from a slightly different view than you’d get from the main
market square.QB‑3, ul. Ratajczaka 18 (Pasaż Apollo),
tel. (+48) 61 639 06 39, www.goko.com.pl. Open 12:00 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (20-60zł). T6VGSW
ul. wojskowa 4,
poznań (next to city park)
open: mon-sat 12-23, sun 12-22
phone +48 519 376 182, email@example.com
March - June 2016
Circular sushi bar
12:00 - 17:00
Eat all you want
60zł per person
KURO BY PANAMO
The tendency in Poland is for a new cuisine to be launched
and then a procession of new restaurants to open all
serving pretty much the same ‘fashionable’ cuisine. Here
Kuro have taken the cuisine of a few years ago - Sushi - and
mixed it with the cuisine of the last year - Thai. The results
to be fair are very, very good and the ul. Wodna location
means you won’t have to go far to find it. Find both hot
and cold Japanese dishes and some very tasty Thai in a
handsome room with remarkably friendly people working
there.QD‑2, ul. Wodna 8/9, tel. (+48) 61 887 04 30,
www.kurosushi.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 23:00. (25-50zł). TGSW
KYOKAI SUSHI BAR
The City Park development just to the west of the centre
(past the Trade Fairs) is home to some of the city’s best
eating establishments and this is true for Kyokai, one of
Poznań’s best Japanese efforts. Laid out over two floors,
sushi sets revolve around a circular bar, while a sushi sensei
multitasks in the thick of it all. Set in a series of converted
red brick buildings, the surroundings look chic and sexy, as
do the clientele. Definitely one to check out, take tram 13
to the ‘Wojskowa’ stop.Qul. Wojskowa 4 (Grunwald), tel.
(+48) 519 37 61 82, www.kyokai.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (35-60zł). TUVGSW
ZINDO SUSHI KOREAN - JAPANESE
An expansion from their Warsaw and Wrocław operations,
Zindo’s modern beige-heavy space still appears to be
struggling to attract attention from the folks in Poznań. A
lunchtime sushi buffet was the busiest we saw the place,
and provides more of a bang-for-your-buck experience
than the pricier dinner option. The Korean menu is a
standout, and adventurous eaters can indulge in octopus,
fried squid or raw fish with vegetables to test their mettle.
More traditional options like kimchi are reliably well done.
QD‑1, ul. Kramarska 15, tel. (+48) 61 853 01 78, www.
zindo.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30. (30-70zł). TVGSW
FREE DELIVERY WITHIN 5 KM FOR ORDERS OVER 100 ZŁ
ul. Kramarska 15, www.zindo.pl
reservation (61) 853-01-78
34 Poznań In Your Pocket
LUDWIKU DO RONDLA
Poznań’s classic Jewish restaurant Cymes has morphed into
Ludwiku do Rondla (Ludwik to the Pan, a way of saying
“make my dinner!”), which means the menu is now a mix
of traditional Polish cuisine as well as the consistent Jewish
dishes (like herring in marinade and a Jewish caviar) that
were the hallmark of Cymes. Note that you will have to stifle
a giggle while paging through the English translations of
the Jewish dishes as the poultry stomachs brewed in curry
have been randomly translated as “goose cunt.” Yes, we
snapped a picture too.QD‑2, ul. Woźna 2/3, tel. (+48) 61
851 66 38. Open 13:00 - 22:00. (14-32zł). TGS
Set in the historic building that once housed (and will again
someday, according to rumours) the Hotel Bazar, the name
of this smart restaurant honours both the building and the
year it was built. Looking far pricier from the outside than it
actually is, the food scores well in the price to quality ratio,
and is served by a friendly English-speaking staff. Along with
imaginative interpretations of typical Polish dishes you’ll
find pastas, salads and a variety of original dishes. Definitely
a place to impress without buckling the credit card, though
you may have to protect the plastic from the exclusive shops
nearby.QC‑2, ul. Paderewskiego 8, tel. (+48) 61 222 68
64, www.bazar1838.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00
- 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. (28-89zł). TUGSW
Anyone who has set foot in Poland before will have no
doubt eaten in Chłopskie Jadło - a national chain which
offers good old Polish grub at a reasonable price. This new
Poznań location nails the formula, and trademark touristapproved standards like various types of pierogi, hearty
cutlets, and sour rye soup in bread are as good here as you’ll
find anywhere. The interior is also refreshingly modern,
while retaining some folksy motifs, and a playground for
kids makes this a good option for families. As is the case
with most Polish restaurants, you’ll be leaving extremely
filled with a smile on your face and a willingness to come
back.QA‑1, ul. Fredry 12, tel. (+48) 72 510 05 25, www.
chlopskiejadlo.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00. (10-60zł). TUGSW
Burgers and bowling, anyone? This centrally-located alleyside restaurant serves up all the Americanized comfort
food favorites you might be craving, like pizza, pasta, BBQ
steaks, ribs, onion rings, mozzarella sticks, and crispy French
fries, all in a modern and streamlined interior.QB/C‑2, ul.
Święty Marcin 24 (Galeria MM), tel. (+48) 61 222 50 51,
12:00 - 23:00. (15-25zł). TUGW
Filled with dusty bottles and timber touches, the Mill Wheel
is a signature Polish restaurant with a menu that takes its
ingredients seriously; the fish are caught first thing in
the morning, while the duck apparently comes from the
adjacent lake. Tell them in advance and they’ll spit-roast
a pig for you. Recommended.Qul. Browarna 37 (Nowe
Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 878 99 35, www.mlynskiekolo.pl.
Open 12:00 - 21:00. (30-70zł). T6UGSW
OBERŻA POD DZWONKIEM
Resembling a traditional mountain lodge, ‘Under the Bell’ is
bursting with giant timber beams, beautiful 200-year-old
wooden furniture, rusty machinery, old pots and pans, piles
of dusty books - even the barstools are fashioned out of
March - June 2016
TYPICAL POLISH CUISINE - SLOW FOOD
A kitchen like at mama‘s
with recipes like at Granny‘s
Poznań, ul Garbary 54
tel.: 061 851 99 70
saddles. It all contributes to a congenial rustic atmosphere,
and while the menu focuses on traditional Polish fare with
mouth-watering renditions of classics such as żurek soup,
ribs, duck, and pierogi, the philosophy of the kitchen is
hardly the throwback that the interior suggests; all dishes
can be prepared vegan, gluten-free, or to any other dietary
needs if specified when ordering. Score a sweet deal with
soup and an entree for only 15zł Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00.
QD‑2, ul. Garbary 54, tel. (+48) 61 851 99 70, www.
oberza.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00,
Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (22-69zł). T6UGSW
Let Top Chef Poland finalist Adam Adamczak cook up a
delicious meal for you (roe tartar with brioche? Saddle
of lamb with oxtail stuffed cabbage?) in the understated
interior of this Jeżyce eatery dedicated to the finest of fine
dining.QE‑3, ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. (+48) 728 44 21 65.
Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (30-80zł). TGW
A long-standing restaurant squirreled away in the complex
of buildings at the centre of the town square. Step in and
you’ll find stained glass panels, floral touches, and a strong
European menu that includes several local dishes. The
pierogi are excellent.QC‑2, Stary Rynek 2, tel. (+48) 61
852 99 17, www.bamberka.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00.
36 Poznań In Your Pocket
Bare brick walls, chalked-up menus and a general strippeddown approach seems to be all the rage for new eateries
in Poznań these days - and that’s certainly the path Racja
Mięsa have chosen to go down. But why change a winning
formula? It’s basic, it’s minimal but the food’s decent
enough (think local soups and steaks) and the staff are
happy to talk you through the menu, which changes on a
regular basis. The on-wall diagrams depicting the different
parts of pigs and cows should be enough to get any avid
meat eater excited. Yep, we like it.QD‑1, ul. Szewska 20,
tel. (+48) 515 69 20 20. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (12-55zł). 6UGSW
One of the longest established places in town and with good
reason. Located right on the main square, Ratuszova serves
up a vast array of healthy and modern seasonal dishes using
the innovative sous vide method not found in many other
Poznań restaurants. If the beautiful and unique interior doesn’t
impress you (and it should) then the menu surely will. Prepare
to indulge yourself with classics such as roast duck with apple,
veal cheeks, czernina (duck blood) soup, pierogi and other
Polish standards. A perfect spot to spoil yourself.QC‑2, Stary
Rynek 55, tel. (+48) 61 851 05 13, www.ratuszova.pl. Open
12:00 - 23:00. (19-89zł). T6GSW
WARTO NAD WARTĄ
Warto nad Wartą seems to have it bang on - a classy joint
located plonk in the centre, but just far away enough to escape
the hustle and bustle of the main market square. To simply label
this as a Polish restaurant would be an injustice given its range
of international dishes, and our main picks would be the duck
and steak. The fine selection of desserts (and great selection of
wines) coupled with a smart interior make this a fine starting
point before hitting some of the city’s more upmarket bars.
QC‑1, Al. K. Marcinkowskiego 27a, tel. (+48) 600 83 68 46,
www.wartonadwarta.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (15-80zł). T6UGSW
After hearing that Wiejskie Jadło had undergone a recent refurb
and drafted up a new menu, we were tempted back to sample
the results. We weren’t disappointed. It’s what you expect from
a Polish restaurant - a warm wooden interior, bustling staff and
big decent portions of hearty grub. We enjoyed the żurek soup
and after gut-busting sausages, it’s good we didn’t have far to
go - they’re located just off the market square.QD‑2, Stary
Rynek 77 (entrance from ul. Franciszkańska), tel. (+48) 61
853 66 00, www.wiejskie-jadlo.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (17-53zł). T6UGSW
Dine with perfect strangers at the Common Table’s common
table (or, for more antisocial parties, at one of the smaller
ones). Serving classy takes on Polish cuisine, this welcoming,
elegantly decorated lunch-and-dinner spot has a certain
nice community feel.QI‑3, ul. Śródka 6, tel. (+48) 614 15
27 18. Open 13:00 - 21:00. (29-42zł). T6UGSW
Yeżyce Kuchnia offers the perfect opportunity to feel like
“part of the scene” and mingle with Poznan’s young, local
in-crowd. The cool common room/caff-style decor is
enough to keep people returning, but combine that with
an ever-changing top-draw menu and you’ll soon see why
this place is one of the most talked about venues in town.
Food-wise, it’s traditional Polish fare served up with a bit
of imagination, but the desserts and cakes make a visit to
Yeżyce Kuchnia worth it alone.Qul. Szamarzewskiego 17
(Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 663 05 06. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat
10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (15-40zł). T6G
Traditional Polish Cuisine
A great place to kick-start your evening, there’s a distinct
pre-party feel to Czerwona Papryka - from the huge black
bull welcoming you out front to the lively buzz of chattering
patrons and Spanish music found inside. The menu allows
you the chance to relive those magical Mediterranean
moments with a choice selection of tapas and other dishes
to get you in the mood for the night ahead. As you’d
imagine, there’s a decent selection of Spanish wine to work
through as well, and the bubbly staff are only too willing to
keep your glass full.QD‑2, Stary Rynek 49, tel. (+48) 61
855 04 13, www.czerwonapapryka.com.pl. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (20-75zł).
One of the great things about Poznań is the fact that
everything is within walking distance (or at most only
a couple tram stops away). Pad Thai is one of those that
requires a tram ticket (get off at ‘Poznań Plaza’), but this
luxurious restaurant inside the Thai Spa centre makes the
3zł ticket seem meaningless. To break fast between beauty
treatments chose from their enticing curries, fish dishes and
sushi. A beautiful, relaxing interior and friendly staff make
this place a winner.Qul. Drużbickiego 11 (Piątkowo), tel.
(+48) 61 840 76 66, www.padthairestauracja.pl. Open
12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.
THAI FAST WOK
A little gem of a place if you fancy quick, simple and tasty
Thai favourites at lunch special prices, Fast Wok was recently
enlarged to accommodate more traffic. Found through
an archway leading from ul. Ratajczaka, Fast Wok, while
having a Pole in the open kitchen, does seem to have got
the basics of this ethnic dish right, something which isn’t
a given in Poland. Nasi Goreng, red and green curry and
chicken in black bean sauce are a few of the dishes on the
concise menu.QB‑2, ul. Ratajczaka 18 (Pasaż Apollo), tel.
(+48) 508 52 89 89, www.fastwok.pl. Open 11:00 - 20:00,
Sat 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. (18-28zł). VGS
Traditional beef roulade served with black lentils
and beetroot puree
Where King Jan II Kazimierz Waza
resided in 1657-1658 you may savour
authentic traditional Polish cuisine
and dishes of an international flavour
expertly prepared by our highly
experienced Chef. Four different areas
are available for our Guests:
Restaurant, Cafe, Bar & Summer Garden
Traditional polish ginger cake with vanilla ice - creams
STARY RYNEK 55, POZNAŃ
+48 618 510 513
March - June 2016
Duck with dumplings
and red cabbage
WHY THAI FOOD & WINE
Why Thai, why not? This fresh, cool and comfortable modern
restaurant refuses to bow down to the standard ‘silk road’
school of Asian interior design. An absolute insistence on
using fresh ingredients, unpolluted by MSG or other flavour
enhancing poisons, guarantees the dishes have a light and
natural taste. The well-conceived menu is neither overly
long nor cryptically complicated. We rate the beef strips
with tamarind sauce, but for something a little different give
the house speciality of duck and pineapple red curry a go.
If you’re particularly nosy and need to know what the Thai
cooks are up to try to be seated in the smaller area of the
restaurant with its glass-fronted view into the kitchen.QD‑1,
ul. Kramarska 7, tel. (+48) 61 818 29 11, www.whythai.pl.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. (18-40zł). T6UVSW
Stary Rynek 77
(entrance from the Franciszkańska street)
tel. (+48) 618 53 66 00, www.wiejskie-jadlo.pl
“Adventurous” isn’t a word we often like to pair with
the word “dining” (after all, that’s how folks on reality
TV end up eating spiders), but this place proves to be
the exception. As its name implies, Dark Restaurant
is devoted to having diners eat their dinner in inky
blackness. We’re not talking mood lighting, either; the
cavernous room is so dark that the waiters actually wear
night vision goggles. The idea behind Dark Restaurant
is that by impairing your sense of sight, you enhance
your other senses, which makes for a more exciting
dining experience. It’s also a great excuse to eat with
your hands, because utensils are completely useless
without the benefit of eyesight. Each of the menu
themes - bizarre food, mood food, and a more standard
option - comes with a variety of courses, and you aren’t
told what you’re digging into until the meal is over. All
these factors add up to a messy and intriguing meal
that will have you guessing with every bite. Sure, some
of the foods are obvious, but basil ice cream? Oranges
with sea salt? Your tongue will undoubtedly be
tantalized. Fortunately, your meal ends with a chance
to talk with your waiter and the head chef, who delight
in making you guess what you ate.QD‑2, ul. Garbary
48, tel. (+48) 61 852 20 57, www.darkrestaurant.pl.
Open 16:00 - 21:30, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. (80-120zł).
38 Poznań In Your Pocket
We wholeheartedly agree with this restaurant’s name:
Ukraine is cool. But - perhaps due to the similarities to typical
Polish cuisine - Ukrainian restaurants are disappointingly
rare around these parts. Luckily, there’s a new player on
the Poznań gastro scene, and they offer delicious, highquality traditional grub in hip, neo-folksy surroundings,
which never once slide into kitsch, despite costumed wait
staff. Ukrainian, Polish, Russian, Belarusian (and presumably
English) are all spoken here.QG‑4, ul. Kwiatowa 2, tel.
(+48) 570 42 97 71, www.fajnaukrajna.pl. Open 12:00 23:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (25-53zł). TGSW
A chain of budget vegetarian restaurants that are a Polish
success story. Often packed with students who know a
good deal when they see one, find a well prepared and
generous range of vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free
dishes, including excellent pancakes and juices. Also at
ul. Gwarna 1 (A-2) and ul. Zeylanda 3 (E-3).QB‑1, ul. 23
Lutego 11, tel. (+48) 61 852 52 41, www.greenway.pl.
Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (8-19zł). T6G
On a street better known for boozy student chaos and
greasy fast food, Je Sus flips the script(ure) on ul. Taczaka by
offering healthy, strictly vegan eats. Make what you will of
the subtle, ironic iconography related to Poland’s favourite
bearded messiah, and the slightly slapdash interior of
paint-splattered stepladders, wiry plants and mismatching
furniture, this is hipster heaven and vegan nirvana. The
menu changes constantly to stay fresh and seasonal, and
features non-dairy plant-powered takes on pizza, breakfast
omelettes, spring rolls, and more - most of it prepared by
Ewelina, the owner, and all of it divine. Like the menu, there
are no strictly kept opening hours, so god speed and good
luck. Closed on Mondays!QB‑3, ul. Taczaka 22, tel. (+48)
608 52 80 33. (10-20zł). T6GSW
KWADRAT VEGAN BISTRO & CAFE
Poznań might be a bit short on vegetarian and vegan
options, but this little place will do in a pinch. Whereas
the interior is perhaps somewhat too literally green for our
liking, the food is reasonably priced and reasonably tasty,
with spices that are right on (no small feat around these
parts). The menu offers a selection of soups, Thai and Indian
dishes, meatless Polish classics, and other imaginative
vegan creations, as well as craft beer.QD‑2, ul. Woźna
18, tel. (+48) 609 31 47 17. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat
13:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. (12-24zł).
Small, bright, and completely vegan, Misa Lisa (The Fox’s
Bowl) serves elaborate daily specials full of vegetables,
fruits, and nuts. You can count on two dishes each each day
- not a lot, but hardly a shock for vegetarians dining in most
places - plus desserts, tea, and coffee.QG‑5, ul. Górna
Wilda 71, tel. (+48) 731 13 35 08. Open 13:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon. (18-22zł). 6GS
There was a time back when non-carnivore tourists had to
make do with either cheese-filled pierogi, boiled cabbage,
or potatoes. But the times, they are certainly a-changing.
This little restaurant sets the standards high and the
garden, with its perfect mix of candles and plants, makes
for the perfect romantic setting. In a country not known for
its love of spicy cuisine, the ‘hot Thai red curry’ goes down
very well, and the samosa starters are a great way to get
you prepared for your main dish. Big thumbs up all round.
QD‑2, ul. Woźna 17, tel. (+48) 61 639 35 95. Open 12:00
- 22:00. Closed Mon. (16-32zł). T6GSW
The People’s Republic of Poland meets 2016 hipsterdom in
the city’s most unlikely vegan spot. Located in the pre-war
Tram Driver’s House, commissioned by the Poznań Tramway
Company in the 1920s and turned into a cultural centre
in recent years, this lunch/dinner/hang-out place offers
healthy, filling meals and twists on unfussy commie-era
grub (such as home-made bread with vegan lard, which
is much more delicious than it sounds). Choose between
the adapted reception/cloakroom, rocking decor virtually
untouched since days when a delivery of toilet paper
was considered major news, and a more modern corner
adorned with colorful art.QE‑3, ul. Słowackiego 19/21, tel.
(+48) 793 63 48 36. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 14:00 - 20:00,
Sun 14:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. (8-22zł). T6GSW
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and leave your comments at:
March - June 2016
Start your day at Petit Paris Boulangerie in Stary Browar.
ANGIELKA CAFE AND LUNCH
Sweet and proper like an older British lady’s home,
Angielka is the type of place where you’d sip your
five o’clock tea out of porcelain, pinky extended. Eats
can be found here as well - crepes, pastas, salads, and
desserts - and the decor was lovingly put together by a
vintage furniture enthusiast, with the focal point on an
old-fashioned stove called an Englishwoman (Angielka)
in the local dialect.QD‑1, ul. Żydowska 33, tel. (+48)
601 47 73 82, www.angielka.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. T6UG
Obnoxious in principle, perfectly warm and inviting
in actuality: Stragan adheres to some stringent
self-imposed rules, including a non-negotiable noamericano policy (they also refuse to make scrambled
eggs). Instead, they’re committed to serving top-notch
alternatively-brewed coffee, using all the new-fangled
(or just currently trendy) methods like drip-brewing,
aeropress, Chemex, and siphon; boxes of equipment
are displayed on the back wall and available for sale, as
are coffee beans. The dedication shows: their coffee was
among the best we’ve tasted, so give it a go if you’re
a caffeine enthusiast. Light breakfast is served as well.
QB‑2, ul. Franciszka Ratajczaka 31. Open 08:00 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. T6U
40 Poznań In Your Pocket
Couples wallow under starlight in a backyard that’s potted
with plants and almost grotto-like in magic (they’ve even
won an award for the space, which is closed in winter).
There’s no doubt about it, it’s a garden of memories.
If the sun falls out of the sky seek shelter inside where a
topsy-turvy interior comes sprinkled with chintz. Recently
expanded to include a restaurant in an adjacent room.
QD‑2, ul. Świętosławska 9, tel. (+48) 61 852 95 29, www.
cocorico.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. T6UXSW
DA VINCI CAFFE
Filled to the brim with date-night couples and gossiping
girlfriends during the evenings, this is one of the most
popular spots to have a glass of wine or a cup of fancy
tea by candlelight. The heavily da-Vinci-inspired decor
(sketches of elaborate contraptions, parchment-style walls)
is clever, but slides into tacky here and there.QB‑2, Pl.
Wolności 10, tel. (+48) 502 48 44 74. Open 09:00 - 21:00,
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. 6GSW
On the more expensive side and rather far from the center (but
close to the train station), this colorful and tasteful industrial
chic restaurant-cafe appears to be a popular place for dates
and business meet-ups. The menu changes regularly and while
the portion sizes are modest, the food is prepared with plenty
of skill and gusto.QE/F‑4, ul. Towarowa 41/210, tel. (+48) 61
226 28 02, www.kulkacafe.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat
10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (16-34zł). TGSW
PETIT PARIS BOULANGERIE
A prime location on the ground floor of Poznan’s bustling Stary
Browar shopping complex means that this cafe/boulangerie
is never short of customers looking to take a break from their
latest spending spree. The interior is smart but informal, and
the friendly staff busy themselves serving up everything
from fresh coffees and teas to crepes, tarts, pastries and fresh
French bread. For those looking for something a little more
substantial there’s an excellent breakfast selection, daily soups,
and a range of lunches to line your stomach before sampling
one of their wines. Bon appétit!QG‑4, ul. Półwiejska 32
(Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 667 15 55. Open 08:00 - 21:00,
Sun 09:00 - 20:00. UGSW
PIECE OF CAKE
While the name might invoke a pink-frosting-and-lace aesthetic,
Piece of Cake will definitely not give you diabetes. No doubt the
coziest place on ul. Żydowska, this cafe has an amazing retrohomey vibe that will make you feel like digging out an old photo
album and maybe putting on a vinyl. With menus laboriously
types out on a vintage typewriter (which is sometimes in use
as you’re sipping your coffee) and a smattering of art supplies
and old books, the comfy interior might entice you to stay a bit
longer for a small veggie-burger or grilled-sandwich lunch (the
tomato jam is the bomb, by the way).QD-1, ul. Żydowska 29.
Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.
Gorgeous lantern-filled tea house that really knows its
herbal infusions well. If you’re just not a tea person (but
enjoy red Chinese lanterns), coffee is available too, and
so is a yummy selection of cakes and light meals. Perfect
for relaxing on a blustery day.QD‑2, ul. Woźna 19/20,
tel. (+48) 61 221 28 77, www.podlampionami.pl. Open
12:00 - 22:00. GSW
This small and cute cafe fits in just right with the rest of ul.
Żydowska, known for its coffee and cake establishments.
An ever-changing menu of breakfast, lunch, and dinner
options is a great reason to stay longer, and vegan options
are available. During warm weather you can lounge outside
on a deck chair, John Lemon in hand.QD‑1, ul. Żydowska
35a, tel. (+48) 609 44 77 98, www.podnosem.eu. Open
11:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. T6GSW
Named after “The Bird Radio”, a famous children’s poem by
Julian Tuwim, this rustic cafe really commits to the theme with
subtle murals, vintage bird cages, and bird-shaped figurines.
The large selection of unique, seasonal hot and cold drinks
(lemonades, hot chocolates, smoothies, coffees, and the like)
might be the primary draw, but it’s not all - Ptasie Radio also
offers breakfasts, lunches, and delicious chocolate cake.QA‑2,
ul. Kościuszki 74, tel. (+48) 61 853 64 51, www.ptasieradio.
pl. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. T6SW
An open buffet costing 38zł in one of Poznan’s top
locations, right on the square.QC‑2, Stary Rynek 7374 (Brovaria Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.
brovaria.pl. Breakfast served 07:00 - 10:00. (38zł).
The Sheraton Sunday Brunch is one of the best
reasons to get out of bed. Adults pay 130zl (half
price kids between 6-12, free for anyone younger),
which covers a lavish buffet spread and a free
flow of booze. Popular with high rolling Poles and
expats, you’ll be hard pressed to find a better use
for Sunday afternoon.QE‑3, ul. Bukowska 3/9
(Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00,
www.fusion-poznan.pl. Brunch served Sun 13:00
- 17:00. TUGSW
PETIT PARIS BOULANGERIE
A perfect breakfast option, where the most important
meal of the day is served all day. Choose from French
classics like croque madame, crepes, croissant
sandwiches, tartines and more - all made from
authentic French ingredients, and delicious fresh bread
that is baked on-site.QG‑4, ul. Półwiejska 32 (Stary
Browar), tel. (+48) 61 667 15 55. Open 08:00 - 21:00,
Sun 09:00 - 20:00. (10-20zł). UGSW
Getting a decent breakfast on the town has just gotten
easier with the opening of this cheerful and healthconscious place. Serving a large selection of options
including oatmeal, granola, grilled sandwiches, and
eggs, Porannik is one of our favorite spots to start
the day. They stay open for lunch, so feel free to drop
in during the afternoon, as well.QB‑1, ul. 23 lutego
9, tel. (+48) 531 05 14 11, www.porannik.com.pl/.
Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. (615zł). T6GSW
Combine this with Petit Paris and apparently Stary
Browar is the place in Poznań to start the day. Breakfast
options here are plentiful, healthy and eco-minded in
terms of the ingredients - eggs come from free range
chickens, rice, almond and soy milk are available, as is
fresh-squeezed orange juice. Choose from omelettes,
scrambled eggs, yoghurt with granola, porridge, toast
with goat cheese and ricotta, and more, including
some vegan, gluten-free and dairy-free options.QC‑3,
ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 606 99 29
99. Breakfast served 09:00 - 12:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00.
March - June 2016
The owners of the popular Kawiarnia Nocna Kisielice
bar have opened an equally cool (if not cooler) café
upstairs, drawing the same artsy crowd during daylight
hours when they’re in need of coffee and sandwiches.
The interior features one wall covered in stray pieces of
wood (more intriguing than it sounds, we promise), the
menu is a simple array of salads, pastas, and snacks like
hummus, while the true standout is their minimal beer
selection, featuring some local microbrews. A low-key
winner.QB‑3, ul. Taczaka 20, tel. (+48) 509 82 54 45.
Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
You’d think utilizing all the stereotypically hip-n-cool
paraphernalia of modern-day hipster locales - like
wooden pallets, whitewashed brick, and mason jars
(hence the name) - would turn this place into one big fat
(cool) cliche, but the rustic decor is absolutely fresh, cozy,
and pretty darn unique. With gentle mood music and an
all-around calming ambience, this is the perfect place to
eat a light breakfast, chat over coffee, or try out one of
the “1001” flavors of beer, like cotton candy, cucumber,
or pistachio.QC‑2, ul. Sieroca 5/6, tel. (+48) 601 56 72
27. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 08:00 - 23:00.
ZEMSTA ANARCHIST BOOKSHOP & CLUB
Get to know the Anarchists - a group that is perhaps more
bookish, organised, and vegan than you imagined. As far
from a shady, rambunctious squat as you can get, at first
glance this place might look like an ordinary (vegan) lunch
bar, cafe, and bookstore well-stocked with high-quality
journalism and travel writing, but walk up to the counter
and you will find pamphlets attempting to convince casual
picker-uppers that in their heart of hearts they’re anarchists
too. Strike up a conversation with one of the patrons or
pop in for an anarchist event to better appreciate what an
unlikely outlet this movement has found here.QA‑2, ul.
Fredry 5/3a, tel. (+48) 61 823 25 63, www.zemsta.org.
Open 10:00 - 22:00, Tue 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon. (10-16zł). 6NGSW
& ReGional BReweRies
draught beers and bottles
ul. Żydowska 27, Poznań
42 Poznań In Your Pocket
Not the easiest place to find despite being only a stone’s
throw from the square, which makes its discovery (head
into what looks like a shop to find it tucked away at the
back) even more of a pleasant surprise. Clearly a labour
of love as reflected by beautiful paper decorations set
against the mismatch of wooden furnishings, exposed
brick, and copious shrubbery. Spread over a number of
small rooms, Zielona Weranda is one of our favourite lunch
spots with a tasty, well-prepared range of soups, salads,
sandwiches and snacks. The tea, coffee, and cake options
are so encyclopaedic, the harder aspect of spending time
here is deciding what to have.QC‑2, ul. Paderewskiego 7,
tel. (+48) 61 851 32 90, www.werandafamily.com. Open
10:00 - 24:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 10:00 - 23:00. 6UGS
Relaxing evening at Chmielnik (p. 45)
Poznań bars are flexible - no matter what the official
closing times are, most bars and pubs will stay open until
the last customer has stumbled out. Most night spots are
concentrated around the Old Town Square, but also check
out ul. Nowowiejskiego (B‑1) and ul. Taczaka (B‑3)
both of which draw students in droves. If you don’t see it
listed here, visit our website - poznan.inyourpocket.
com - for reviews of almost every place in town, and the
opportunity to leave your comments about all of them.
Below are a few suggestions depending on what you
might be looking for:
If you need to catch the match, Poz has some rather
classy sports bars in Cooliozum and the Sheraton’s
Someplace Else. Ministerstwo Browaru emphasises
plenty of obscure beers (including their own) for
connoisseurs, while Brovaria has excellent lagers
brewed right on-site. Keep the night going in Pijalnia
Wódki i Piwa, a cheap late-night eatery on the Rynek
that will help you offset your hangover with piles of
white sausage and pickled herring; it’s also a great
place to meet the locals.
The best cocktails in Poznań are found in Blow Up 50 50,
which is conveniently situated close to one of the most
exclusive danceterias in town - SQ. Look the part if you
want to be accepted into either. If you don’t want snooty,
you can easily run up your tab sipping choice monastic
ales at Kriek Belgium Pub & Cafe, while Piano Bar mixes
luxury drinks and atmosphere for a swanky well-rounded
Another vote for Blow Up 50 50, the best destination for
seductive cocktails. If it’s entertainment you’re after check
out Blue Note Jazz Club, which attracts great international
performers to serenade your better half. Basilium does an
excellent job of combining cocktails with cosy spaces as
well, or make it a fine bottle of red in Casa De Vinos (see
Wine Bars, p.48).
With so many options, Poz’s Rynek can be overwhelming,
but without doubt the most popular place is Brovaria,
which regularly sees people queuing for tables in order to
enjoy the in-house brewed beers. Of course it’s impossible
not to mention Pacha here - the legendary Ibiza club
which has brought its international cred and celebrity
crowds to Poz; good luck getting in. For the plebs, it’s the
ever-popular Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa, of course.
Brave the dark basement of Kawiarnia Nocna
Kisielice - an experimental hangout that the locals
love for the alternative music and atmosphere, or check
out the plywood and graffiti art stylings of Mrowisko.
Ambitious hipsters should certainly seek out the artsy
cultural collective known as OFF Garbary (p.48).
Craft beer is all the rage in PL these days, and Poz has
hopheads well-served with Basilium, Chmielnik and
March - June 2016
G No smoking
N Credit cards not accepted
6 Animal friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
E Live music
X Smoking room available
W Wi-fi connection
BARS & PUBS
A smart and cosy little location found just off the Rynek,
and well-loved by the entire IYP team. Warm lighting and
decorations ranging from old gramophones to flattened
beer bottles suspended from the ceiling help create a laidback atmosphere, but the main reason for parking yourself
in one of the comfy chairs or propping yourself up an
empty wooden barrel is the vast selection of beer on offer.
Whilst there are a few on draught, it’s the rows and rows
of bottles on the shelves that will have you gawping and
unsure quite where to start. With over 150 brews, this is one
of the best craft beer bars in Poz. In addition to this, there’s
a nice selection of snacks.QD‑2, ul. Woźna 21, tel. (+48)
790 33 37 56. Open 14:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00,
Sun 12:00 - 01:00. 6UGW
The popular concept of the ‘pub crawl’ hasn’t quite
taken off locally in PL. Generally speaking, Poles prefer
to find themselves a decent bar, park their butt for the
night and let the alcohol do the rest. Not a bad idea, but
don’t let yourself fall too far into that trap when visiting
Poznań - this city has made a name for itself when it
comes to nightlife, and is simply too full of fine boozers
to limit yourself to just a few. As an alternative to the
almost boundless drinking opportunities on the main
square, more adventurous visitors may want to check
out Ulica Taczaka (A/B-3), where you can approach local
alcohol culture in much the same manner as you might
sightseeing - namely by attempting to absorb as much
of it as you can as efficiently as possible in the short time
that you’re here. Located just five minutes from the market
square, Taczaka is known as the ‘high street’ of Poznań’s
down-at-heel ‘student ghetto,’ and is densely packed
with divey proto-Polish cellar pubs, the likes of which it’s
hardly worth the energy to differentiate between here all feature the same trusty formula for good times: cheap
beer, familiar music, unbashful boozed-up students, and
foreign boys practicing pigeon Polish on the local birds.
It’s certainly not for everyone, but if that sounds like
your society, start at Taczaka’s top end (off ul. Ratajczaka,
B-3) and get down on all fours for a crawl down one of
Poznań’s most prodigious nightlife expressways.
44 Poznań In Your Pocket
BLOW UP HALL 5050
Woah, if there’s one place that keeps leaving an impact it’s
the Blow Up. The bar is the final word in industrial chic, with
metal floors, exposed brickwork and ceilings that stretch to
the clouds. The artwork is mad, and deliberately messes with
your head, as do the cocktails, truly the work of a scientific
hand. As for the bar itself, that’s a multi-angled, zinc plated
masterpiece that has no rival, and features a Davidoff
Lounge where you can buy cigars. It’s not often we attach
the words unmissable to a venue, so take note and visit.
QG‑4, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 61 657 99 91, www.
blowuphall5050.com. Open 15:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 01:00. UXW
BLUE NOTE JAZZ CLUB
A vast multi-level jazz club whose spangly interior has
shades of 90s club tragedy written all over it. Don’t let
that discourage you, however, this is a legendary venue
that has hosted some of the biggest names in Polish
and international jazz. Do check their website for what’s
cooking first - this space has been known to be rented out
for teen hip-hop nights and other hooded-top twaddle,
and if there’s no concert scheduled then they aren’t open.
QA‑1, ul. Kościuszki 79, tel. (+48) 61 851 04 08, www.
bluenote.poznan.pl. Open 1 hour before event; check
Brovaria feels an integral part of Poznań life, and it’s
certainly become established as the main expat haunt
since the demise of Dom Vikingow. Yet while it feels an
ingrained piece of Poznań one look at the design reveals
a modern, industrial space, one where steel and glass
combine to create a sharp looking area that looks as
edgy now as when it first opened. However, coming here
to admire the interiors would be missing the point; this
place is all about beer, namely the excellent house lagers
that are brewed out back in the copper vats. Here’s one
of the best microbreweries in Poland, quite possibly the
best: enjoy it.QC‑2, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel),
tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. Open 10:00 01:00. GW
Set inside the old malt house (Słodownia) of the former
Brewery Huggerów which has now become the vast Stary
Browar mall, Browar Pub attracts a monied and grown-up
crowd you’re unlikely to see filling clubs around Poznań’s
main square. The arched brick ceilings add architectural
interest, though all eyes are typically focused on the dance
floor. Theme nights are popular here on weeknights, with
weekends devoted to hits from 70s through to the present
day, which might explain the classier crowd. Our only
complaint is that Browar’s location deep inside the mall
can make it tough to spot from outside, but follow the
dolled up crowd up the outside stairs on Półwiejska as it’s
worth the effort.QC‑3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar
Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 65 70, www.slodownia.
com. Open 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. YEG
One of the best bars on ul. Żydowska, Chmielnik sports
a smart wood and stone interior, on-site brewing tanks
and spot-on selection of microbrews to pull in a trendy
20-something crowd. The seasonal garden out back is a
summer staple, and it has recently expanded, along with
the entire locale (which now has a new kitchen on the
premises). Hands down, this is one of our favourite places
for lazy get-togethers that go late into the night.QD‑1,
ul. Żydowska 27, tel. (+48) 790 33 39 46. Open 14:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 03:00. 6GW
There’s a lot to say about Cooliozum, and we might as well
begin with the best bit - yip, these guys have Sky Sports,
a move which puts them a league above every wannabe
sports bar in town. Other bonuses include around 120
beers, as well as a few poker tables which seem to have
a steady flow of custom. What’s more, this isn’t the dark,
divey sports bar you may be used too, rather a large
modern space involving ice white sofas and a blue-lit bar.
We were a little sceptical at the beginning but this place is
unquestionably Poznań’s best sports bar. Head through the
archway at no. 45 and find it down some stairs on your left.
QB‑2, ul. Św. Marcin 45, tel. (+48) 601 68 66 92, www.
cooliozum.pl. Open 18:00 - 02:00. W
Stylish and spacious pub
with a casual atmosphere.
A perfect place to watch
your favorite sport events,
have fun or simply enjoy
your friends’ company.
The best Tex-Mex menu in Poznan.
Delicious burgers & steaks
Original drinks and cocktails.
Sports events on large screen and LCD TVs.
2 Glasses are Better than 1 offer (every weekend)
Where’s the party?
The most venerable of the city’s three Irish pubs, the
Dubliner is on an upswing of late with daily live music acts
at 21:30 and a Mon-Fri 13:00-18:00 (plus all-day Sunday)
special that knocks 50% off the food prices. Tucked on the
ground floor of the city’s landmark Imperial Castle, this
timber-cut pub feels like a secret clubhouse complemented
with stained glass windows. The prices for Guinness or
one of the many Irish whiskeys keep the students away
- not a bad thing in our book. Squeeze onto one of the
wooden benches and face the stage for a guaranteed
good time.QA‑2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82 (entrance from Al.
Niepodległości), tel. (+48) 61 851 01 69, www.dubliner.
com.pl. Open 13:00 - 03:00. EW
Formerly known as BSA Sports Pub, this bar is something of a
Poznań institution amongst sports fans and hardcore boozers
alike. It’s a no-frills affair with framed shirts, old tennis rackets
and a shedload of TVs blasting out every sport from boxing
to NBA to footy from around the globe. Above the bar is a
list of the 100-some different shots on offer - including ‘King
Kong’, ‘Highway to Hell’ and the stickily-named ‘Cumshot’ - to
bring on the afterglow. A welcome change from the soulless
glam and glitz sports bars that seem to be all the rage these
days.QC‑3, ul. Długa 11, tel. (+48) 503 77 73 03. Open
16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. NGW
SOMEPLACE ELSE (Sheraton Poznan Hotel)
ul. Bukowska 3/9, Poznan
phone 61 655 2000
March - June 2016
The Poles have been producing and drinking vodka
since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some
of the best vodka blends available in the world. The two
most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be
Belvedere and Chopin, both of which you’ll find in any
alcohol shop. But you won’t find many tipplers throwing
them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are generally
reserved for weddings and mixed drinks, the real fun of
Polish vodka sampling is the flavoured vodkas, the most
popular of which we describe below.
Undoubtedly the most common flavoured vodka,
wiśniówka is cheap and cherry-flavoured. You’ll see
students and pensioners alike buying trays of it at
the bar, as well as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in
corners of tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit
juice is often added to cut the sweetness of this bright
red monogamy cure.
Due to its very name, which translates to something like
‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the
most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of
its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-coloured vodka
flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa is incredibly
palatable and best enjoyed when sipped on ice.
A sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of
herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking vodka doesn’t
get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a
popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and
mulling spices added.
One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports,
Żubrówka has been produced in Eastern Poland since
the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific
to Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each
bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild
fragrance and taste of mown hay. Delightfully smooth as
it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined
with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka.’
46 Poznań In Your Pocket
KAWIARNIA NOCNA KISIELICE
Kawiarnia Nocna Kisielice (formerly just Kisielice) has
somehow always managed to divide opinion and its
refurb will continue to do just that. Gone are the knackered
old sofas, replaced instead by smart new chairs, a
predominantly dark decor and an extremely low bar which
might take the regulars a little while to get used to. The
K-Hole has always been one of the city’s more experimental
bars when it comes to music policy (think hardcore punk
to electronica to African tribal chanting) and if our recent
trip is anything to go by, little here has changed. Definitely
original and worth a look.QB‑3, ul. Taczaka 20, tel. (+48)
799 17 44 14, www.kisielice.com. Open 20:00 - 04:00,
Thu 20:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. BXW
KRIEK BELGIAN PUB & CAFE
If ever we were pushed to name a favourite bar in Poznań,
this place would be a first impulse. Setting it apart is a
collection of 170 Belgian beers, admirably promoted by
Sławek, a gregarious giant whose principal aim is to spread
the good gospel of lager. Even better, they now also serve
food, including the only pulled pork sandwich in Poz.
Permanently cast in shadow, Kriek is a sure-fire winner, and
a hefty bill is as expected as the heavy head that follows.
Highly recommended.QD‑2, ul. Wodna 23, tel. (+48) 508
26 75 70. Open 13:00 - 02:00, Fri 13:00 - 04:00, Sat 16:00
- 04:00. Closed Sun. UGW
One of our favourite haunts for Polish craft beers, find
AleBrowar brews like Black Hope and Rowing Jack on tap
alongside the establishment’s own Ministerstwo beers and
top-rated European names like Delirium Tremens. If we had
it our way all pubs would be run by folks as knowledgeable
as these fellows, who’ve boiled it down to wood benches and
great beer. If you’re up before it’s afternoon, you’ll find the
equally awesome Minister Cafe upstairs.QB‑2, ul. Ratajczaka
34, tel. (+48) 601 53 37 47. Open 16:00 - 02:00. GW
MIŚ GASTRO BAR
Popular with the late-night crowd and located right on
the main square, Miś (Teddy Bear) is a good place to get
increasingly more drunk with your mates and maybe go
through a couple meaty snacks. Outside seating is available
during the warmer months.QD‑2, Stary Rynek 50, tel.
(+48) 792 20 06 66. Open 13:00 - 05:00. G
Known in local circles as ‘Mr. Whisky’ (due to its slightly
confusing sign), this place has ‘hipster’ written all over it,
from its graffiti-laden design to its shopping trolley full of
second-hand books and board games. And that’s before
you even sample some of the off-beat beers on offer.
Cheap, cheerful and drawing a lively mix of students and
foreigners, this place has quickly made its mark on the
Poznań scene.QD‑1, ul. Szewska 20A, tel. (+48) 690 22
59 42, www.mrowiskopoznan.pl. Open 17:00 - 01:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. GW
The perfect spot to take clients. A clean cream interior
punctuated by some well chosen local art. The mobile
drinks cabinet can be dispatched to your party if an
emergency surfaces, such as an inability to walk. Waiters are
decked out suitably and can handle any cocktail you should
require.QC‑3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping
Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 65 70, www.pianobar.poznan.pl.
Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. UEGW
PIJALNIA WÓDKI I PIWA
The newspapered interior and nostalgic communistera concept here are exactly the same as their dozens of
locations all over the country (including a second in Poz
at ul. Wrocławska 8, C-2): dirt cheap booze and dirt cheap
grub like pickled herring and cold pork in jelly to soak
up the aforementioned booze. This place is packed at all
hours, though it’s best sampled during the later stages of
the evening when you’re guaranteed a right assortment of
characters who are happy to spill out their life story for the
price of a 4zł beer. Very ‘Polish’ and a welcome alternative
to some of the Rynek’s more expensive and snobby bars.
Karaoke nights take place on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and
Sundays 20:00-02:00.QC‑1, Stary Rynek 85, tel. (+48) 791
85 95 55. Open 09:00 - 05:00, Fri 09:00 - 06:00, Sat 10:00
- 06:00, Sun 10:00 - 05:00. UNGW
It’s got mood lighting, throw pillows, air-con, Maroon
5 droning from the hi-fi speakers, and over sixty shisha
pipes, with available flavours ranging from blue guava to
icy apple to bubble gum; not sure what else you’d need in
a locale of this type. Relaxing and with an expected Near
Eastern touch, this is a good place to simply kick back with
your mates.QC‑2, ul. Wrocławska 2, tel. (+48) 504 26 56
86, www.shishabeirut.pl. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
17:00 - 03:00. Shisha for one table costs 30zł. GW
SPE is a natural born winner - few places are better geared to
meet foreign demands, and while the prices are undoubtedly
steep (do you expect anything else from the Sheraton?), it’s
a place where foreigners and locals mix with seamless ease,
chatting about travels while sports beam down from their 9
TVs. American in spirit, you’ll find Route 66 extras mingled
with rock pics, as well as more whimsical touches such as
a car bonnet bursting from the wall. Taking centre stage is
a circular bar, the perfect base to chat to staff while they
fix earthquake cocktails and velvet smooth Guinness.QE‑3,
ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61
655 20 00, www.poznan.someplace-else.pl. Open 17:00 00:30, Sun 17:00 - 23:30. YUGW
WHISKY BAR 88
Steal yourself away to the darkened surroundings of Whisky
Bar in City Park where you will find the ideal conditions to sit
back and enjoy one of well over 500 different types of the
sainted liquid. Whether you’re looking for whiskey, whisky
or whatever it is in Japanese you will not be disappointed
One of Poznań’s most
original spots, the seasonal
KontenerART occupies a
stretch of grass along the
Warta River that makes
finding the unusual venue
feel like a drink-worthy
achievement. Head down Ewangelicka (H-3) toward
the Warta River and you may hear the clamouring of
KontenerART before you see it. It’s worth the trouble after all, where else can you drink in a stack of shipping
containers surrounded by an artificial beach and “art”
installations that stretch the definition of the word? One
container operates as a stage, one as a bar, and the rest
are filled with art projects that are more confusing than
creative. Deck chairs and wooden pallets are the seating
of choice at this hipster oasis, where no one is without
a Grolsch and a pair of skinny jeans. Climb the stairs for
a second-story seat that offers a view of the river and
the ideal perch for people-watching. A welcome and
unique summer alternative to pubs and clubs in the Old
Town.QI‑4, ul. Ewangelicka (on the Warta between
Chrobrego and Focha bridges), www.kontenerart.pl.
Open April 29th to August 31st, 10:00 - 24:00. During
the off-season they open only for special events; check
their facebook for more information. 6EGBW
March - June 2016
with the elegantly backlit display cases holding some
wonderful choices including some 25-year old single malts.
Comfortable chairs and a modern take on an ‘open-fire’
complete the picture.QE‑4, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26a (City
Park Hotel & Residence), tel. (+48) 888 32 18 88, www.
whiskybar88.pl. Open 12:00 - 01:00. UIEXW
Is that Twoja Stara?
Located around the courtyard of a former furniture
warehouse, OFF Garbary is a culture collective boasting
1600m of space that has been divvied amongst
Poznań’s creatives and devoted to art, culture and
cuisine. On hand are shops, galleries, cafes, food trucks,
bars and even a hairdresser, and the area is host to
frequent workshops, concerts and other events (find
specifics at their FB page: /garbaryoff ). While during
the day there’s almost a family vibe, after dark this is
one of the most happening places in town - a huge
beer garden with legendary weekend DJ parties.
Opening hours vary, but most places are open from
12:00, with the bars opening later and staying open all
night. To find it look for the umbrellas overhead.
During its short tenure since opening, LAS has
established itself as Poz’s best live music venue by far,
with gigs ranging from Colombian free jazz to German
electronica to French hardcore. With a spit and sawdust
warehouse feel, the bar staff will happily ply you with
Czech beer as you get down and dirty with the locals.
Perhaps the best thing to come out of Poznań since
a pint of Lech Pils, check their FB page to see what’s
on.QD‑1, ul. Małe Garbary 7a, tel. (+48) 535 79 22
22. Open during concerts only and Fri, Sat 20:00 05:00. NG
Featuring a huge garden and outdoor bar, inside this
OFF Garbary dive bar it’s all knackered sofas, chandeliers,
and a wall of VHS videos. While a more relaxed vibe
prevails during the week, come the weekend the music
gets pumped up and the dance floor fills out with plenty
of student totty and sexy locals ready to shake off the
hang-ups of the working week. One minute it’s a quiet
pint at the bar discussing the first Doors album, the next
you’re up, unbuckled and barefooted, forgetting where
you’ve left your wallet. Poznań doesn’t get more real and
dirty than this.QD‑1, ul. Małe Garbary 7a, tel. (+48)
786 17 50 66. Open 18:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Sun. XW
48 Poznań In Your Pocket
CASA DE VINOS
Thirty seconds from bustling Półwiejska Street, Casa de
Vinos wine bar serves as an ideal stop-off for those who
know they deserve a relaxing glass of wine (or two) after
a hard day of shopping and sightseeing. The friendly
and knowledgeable staff are happy enough to talk you
through the 300 plus bottles on display before offering
you a comfy seat in which to enjoy your final choice. It’s
small, it’s intimate and it makes for a perfect little place to
sample some of the finest wines from around the globe.
Keep your credit card at hand - you’ll be needing it when
it comes to ordering a bottle or three to take back home.
QC‑3, ul. Krysiewicza 5, tel. (+48) 61 815 28 26, www.
casadevinos.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. GW
Set down a shadowy courtyard basement, Cuba Libre is a
bouncy Latin venue replete with whitewashed walls, pics
of Che, and wall space dedicated to an assortment of Cuban
goodies. This place goes for detail, so much so that drinkers can
even take a seat in one of those clapped-out vintage bangers
you see pootling round the streets of Havana. The Mondaynight dance challenges, Fiesta Latino Fridays, and Disco Latino
Saturdays all prove seriously popular.QC‑2, ul. Wrocławska
21, tel. (+48) 61 855 23 44, www.cuba-libre.pl. Open 21:00 05:00, Mon, Tue 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. EXW
A local institution. Upstairs is a noisy wood-furnished bar,
downstairs a hot labyrinthine club. Music is usually no more
challenging than chart hits, though they do occasionally
draw reputable DJ’s and a crowd hell-bent on tipping lots
of booze down their gobholes.QC‑2, ul. Jaskółcza 13, tel.
(+48) 690 06 50 19. Open 19:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon,
Wed, Sun. BXW
Credit crunch you say? Not in Poznań, people. While
the rest of the world staggers around like a shot pig the
denizens of Poznań are living the high life in places like
Czekolada. To call this place sexy would be a disservice, this
is the final word in design drinking and the sort of cocktail
spot/lounge club the city deserves. Huge chandeliers, shiny
surfaces and black finishes lend a real svelte look to this
spot, and you’d be a fool to turn up looking like anything
less than a celebrity.QC‑2, ul. Wrocławska 18, tel. (+48)
665 55 08 91, www.klubczekolada.pl. Open Thu - Sat
only 22:00 - 05:00. XW
Pacha? As in, the world’s most famous clubbing franchise
Pacha? In Poznań? We’re as shocked as you, but yep, those
cherries are real, and this is the only Pacha in Central Europe
- validating Poznań’s growing international rep as a prime
party city. Decked out in plush design and pumping out
house music for the masses, Pacha is a divorcee’s paradise
and one which is attracting big crowds looking to dance
away those working-week blues. Will its reputation be
enough to pull in the punters from Warsaw, Wrocław and
Berlin? Time will tell...QC‑2, ul. Paderewskiego 10, tel.
(+48) 519 30 02 60, www.pachapoznan.com. Open ThuSat only 22:00 - 05:00. XW
Dance with the fittest and the hippest in SQ, by far the most
envied dance space in town. Silly haircuts and expensive
wardrobes abound here, and they’re here for the music not
the design - DJs arrive from all across Poland to play here,
sometimes even further. The interior isn’t all that, but the nights
are legend, and you’ll find no better place to puff the chest out
and behave like a big time Bertie.QC‑3, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel.
(+48) 663 78 65 47, www.sqklub.pl. Open 22:00 - 04:00, Fri,
Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. EX
DEEP GO GO
Head through the door, make your way down the steps
and prepare to feast your eyes on some of the city’s top
talent. Unlike some clubs of its ilk, Deep Go Go caters
for both stag and hen parties, with a number of setprice options on offer depending on both budget and
number of guests. The modern interiors look as good
as the ladies, and as we’ve learned first-hand, anyone
searching for an evening of spicy adult entertainment
will not leave the club disappointed; check their
faceboook for more details and enjoy.QC‑2, ul.
Wrocławska 5 (entrance from ul. Kozia), tel. (+48)
531 39 36 36. Open 20:00 - 05:00. XW
Wrocławska 5 street
entrance from the street Kozia
Phone: +48 785 559 428
+48 531 393 636
March - June 2016
The Old Town Hall
Crowded with cobbled streets, soaring steeples and historical
monuments, Poznań’s Old Town is a collage of architectural styles
and historical monuments, waiting to be explored…
With a deep and typically complex history, Poznań is rife
with historical monuments and has much to offer those
who enjoy outstanding architecture and diverse cultural
attractions. While part of the beauty of Poznań lies in
aimlessly roaming the streets and alleys, making chance
findings from one turn to the next, there are a number
of must-see sights whose discovery should not be left to
Your natural start point should be the Old Town, and its
main square, the glorious Stary Rynek (p.52). Taking
centre stage is the Old Town Hall (p.53), once renowned
as the most beautiful building north of the Alps. Today it
is home to the Historical Museum of Poznań (p.56) as well
as a pair of mechanical goats who emerge at noon to the
delight of the sightseers gathered below. Of course there’s
more to the Rynek than just the Town Hall, and visitors with
plenty of time will enjoy investigating the other museums
that line the perimeter of the square, including impressive
Archeological Museum (p.56), the brutal Wielkopolska
Military Museum (p.59), and the Wielkopolska Uprising
Museum (p.66) - chronicling the 1918 Uprising which
culminated in Poznań switching from German to Polish
Poznań also boasts two castles. First up is the Royal Castle
(p.54), located just west of the Rynek, which was the seat
of the first Polish kings; neglected for decades, the castle
is currently being returned to its pride of place and will
be open to the public sometime in 2016. Further west
is the Imperial Castle (p.55), built as the residence of
Prussian ruler Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1910. Today the chambers
and cellars of this fearsome complex house numerous
restaurants and bars, as well as the 1956 Uprising
To avoid churches in Poznań would take a serious case
of river blindness. The gem of the Old Town is the Lesser
Basilica of St. Stanislaus (p.53), which boasts an interior
by a veritable who’s who of Roman Baroque artists, as
well as a flamboyant pink facade. The most important
place of worship in Poznań, however, is the Poznań
Cathedral on Ostrów Tumski (p.61) with its twin towers
Morning sun on the Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus
Photo by Zbigniew Ratajczak; courtesy of City of Poznań
and surrounding chapels. This site is connected not only
with the founding of the city of Poznań, but with the very
birth of the Polish nation - a story which is now told in
all its glory at the outstanding Porta Posnania (p.60).
This modern complex in Sródka is now the mandatory
starting point for exploring Ostrów Tumski - Poznań’s
glorious ‘Cathedral Island.’ Once you’ve finished strolling
the Old Town, make sure you have the better part of a day
to enjoy the medieval ambience and relative tranquillity
of Ostrów Tumski.
Poznań also boasts some glorious parks and green spaces.
Lake Malta (p.73), just east of the centre is one of the most
unique urban leisure areas in the country, and offers loads
of family activities for all seasons, including skiing, rollercoasters, and the New Zoo. Meanwhile, just north of the
Old Town, Citadel Park’s 89 hectares of public greenery
are stuffed with interesting monuments, and even two
museums focussed on the city’s military history (p.62).
Photo by Tomasz Szuster. Courtesy of City of Poznań
If you’re in the area for longer, you might also consider the
comfortable day trip out to Gniezno (p.68) - Poland’s first
capital. No matter how long your stay, you’ll find plenty in
Poznań to keep your interest. Use our Sightseeing section
to explore it all and enjoy one of Poland’s most ancient and
March - June 2016
THE OLD TOWN SQUARE
If an authoritative print guide and expansive web portal
simply aren’t enough, and you need someone to literally
take you by the hand (hey, we kid), there are plenty of tour
companies to choose from in Poznań and we list the best
of them here.
© gekaskr / Dollar Photo Club
Packed with monuments, landmarks, museums, and
mementos from the city’s rich history, the marvellous
Old Town Square was faithfully reconstructed after
the immense damage of WWII. Its most impressive
structure has to be the deliciously elaborate Town Hall
at its centre. Near its southeast corner, you’ll find the
Pranger, a 16th-century punishment device to which
unlucky criminals would be chained and whipped or
mutilated according to the executioner’s fancy. To the
left of the Town Hall is perhaps the most recognisable
Poznań sight: the technicolor row of Budnicy Houses
(domki budnicze), named in honour of a class of
merchants known as Budnicy, whose headquarters
used to operate at no. 117.
Moving clockwise, we come across two sad concrete
carbuncles haunted by the ghost of the beautiful
Cloth Hall that stood in their place before World War
II. The one closer to the merchant houses is now the
Wielkopolska Military Museum, while the one on
the left houses Arsenał, a contemporary art gallery
originally known as the Central Exhibition Bureau. A
bit further along, you’ll see the 18th-century police
guardhouse, currently housing the 1818-1819
Wielkopolska Uprising Museum. A few steps away
is the cute, freestanding Municipal Scales building,
which almost looks like something out of Hansel and
Gretel. Originally constructed in 1534, it once housed
hardware for weighing merchandise on its way to the
Behind it you’ll find a small statue of a traditionallydressed Bamber peasant girl carrying jugs used in
wine-making (to find out more about the Bambers, a
group of farmers from Bavaria who came to Poznań
around 300 years ago, visit the Poznań Bamber
Museum on ul. Mostowa 7/9). Other sculptures
include four mythological fountains guarding the
sqaure’s four corners: they depict Proserpina, Mars,
Neptune, and Apollo. Between the last two there’s
one more monument worth admiring - the 1724
figure of John of Nepomuk, a Bohemian martyr saint
who was supposed to protect the city from repeated,
disastrous floods (the 1960s re-routing of the Warta
River ultimately did a far better job of that, however).
52 Poznań In Your Pocket
CITY GUIDE POZNAŃ
Excellent local guides offering tours in English, German,
Polish, Italian, Russian, French and Spanish to attractions
throughout Poznań and beyond (the Piast Route). During
Poland’s EU presidency, City Guides was chosen to show
delegates of the European Commission around the city solid credentials indeed. Their sister company, City Event
Poznań, organises segway and beer tours as well.Qtel.
(+48) 608 28 42 08, www.cityguide-poznan.com.pl.
City guides offering tours of Poznań and the surrounding
area. Languages spoken include German, English, Russian,
Ukrainian, Spanish. Please call in advance to book a tour.
Qtel. (+48) 601 87 16 61, www.kultour.pl.
VisitPoznan offers a wide variety of traditional and alternativethemed walking tours for groups and individuals. Regular Old
Town tours (20zł) in English leave from Góra Przemysła (C-2,
near the Royal Castle) Thu-Sat at 15:00 (Thu-Sun from May
1st); other languages and tours by prior arrangement, with
prices below.Qtel. (+48) 663 03 62 95, www.visitpoznan.
info. For groups 1-6 people 190zł/2hrs, 250zł/3hrs,
340zł/5hrs; prices negotiable for larger groups.
CITY INFORMATION CENTRE
QB‑2, ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel. (+48) 61 851 96 45,
www.cim.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Sun.
CITY INFORMATION CENTRE
QE‑4, ul. Dworcowa 2 (Main Train Station), tel. (+48)
61 633 10 16, www.cim.poznan.pl. Open 08:00 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE
Qul. Bukowska 285 (Poznań Ławica Airport,
Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 849 21 40, www.cim.
poznan.pl. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE
Maps and guides in Polish, English, and German.
Assistance in those languages plus French, Spanish,
Italian, and Portuguese.QC‑2, Stary Rynek 59/60, tel.
(+48) 61 852 61 56, www.cim.poznan.pl. Open 10:00
- 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. From May open 10:00
- 20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Poland’s first bishopric was established in Poznań way
back in 968AD, meaning the city is home to the oldest
Christian places of worship in this extremely devout
country. Poznań Cathedral was Poland’s first, and you
can read more about it and other churches in that district
in our Ostrów Tumski section on page 60; here we list
churches in the city centre only - all of which are still
active to varying degrees, so please be respectful and try
not to visit during services.
Built from 1674-1728, there’s seemingly not much to
church just off the market square. Hidden behind the
bland exterior, however, is an absolute explosion of
baroque over-indulgence, with colourful carved wood,
stucco and paintings by local monk Adam Swach. His
brother, Antoni, designed the high altar and ornamented
stalls, which literally jump out at you in their bright
flamboyance. It’s a spectacle worth seeing, but visitors
also flock to this church to see the Marian shrine, which
has housed a famous picture of the Miracle-Working
Virgin Mary, also known as the Lady of Poznań, for 300
years.QC‑2, ul. Franciszkańska 2, tel. (+48) 61 852 36
37, www.poznan.franciszkanie.pl. Open 07:00 - 18:45.
No visiting during mass please.
LESSER BASILICA OF ST. STANISLAUS
One of Poznań’s most impressive historic monuments, the
Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus, which it became in October
2010, was created as a Jesuit temple in the 17th century.
It boasts an interior by a veritable who’s who of Roman
Baroque artists, with some fine period ornamentation
found in the chapels of the Holy Cross (which features a
16th-century crucifix), and the Virgin Mary (which has a
precious copy of the painting of The Mother of God of
Incessant Help). The Basilica hosts organ concerts played
on an instrument dating from 1876 on Saturdays at 12:15.
QC/D‑2, ul. Gołębia 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 69 50, www.fara.
archpoznan.pl. Open 06:00 - 19:30. No visiting during
ST. ADALBERT’S CHURCH
This small, uniquely-shaped Gothic building was
constructed in the early 15th century and is notable for
its adjacent wooden belfry and Art Nouveau murals.
The high altar features a Late Gothic relief of the
assumption of the Holy Virgin Mary and the other altars
are manneristic, dating from around 1630. Since 1923 it
has held the Crypt of Eminent Citizens of Wielkopolska,
the resting place of Jozef Wybicki, who wrote the words
of the Polish national anthem, and the urn containing
General Jan Henryk Dąbrowski’s heart. The church also
contains the sarcophagus of Karol Marcinkowski, the
famous doctor and social activist.QG‑2, ul. Wzgórze
Św. Wojciecha 1, tel. (+48) 793 84 28 60, www.
swietywojciech.archpoznan.pl. Open before mass and
by prior arrangement.
THE OLD TOWN HALL
First erected in the early
14th century, Poznań’s glorious Town Hall (Ratusz) really flowered in mid-1500s
when Italian architect
Giovanni Quadro of Lugano added the Renaissance
loggia, attic, and classical
tower, earning the structure acclaim as ‘the most
beautiful building north of
the Alps.’ Unfortunately a
catalogue of historic disasters - including a 1675 fire, 1725 hurricane and WWII
bomb damage - have resulted in the sad reality that
today little of the original structure actually remains,
though it has been faithfully rebuilt to retain its status
as the city’s showpiece.
Today the Old Town Hall houses the Historical
Museum of Poznań, whose collection encompasses
exhibits from the 10th century till the present day.
The biggest draw is the Great Entrance Hall with its
elaborately decorated vault, supported by two huge
pillars. The tableaux are inspired by the bible, astrology
and figures from mythology. Directly outside the Town
Hall is the original whipping post, dating from 1535,
with a recently repaired figure of Poz’s executioner
standing on top.
Crowds gather outside the Town Hall each day to
witness two mechanical billy goats emerge from a
door above the clock at precisely 12:00 and proceed to
butt heads twelve times. Simultaneously, a trumpeter
plays the town’s traditional bugle call from a balcony.
The bugle call (hejnał) dates back at least to the 15th
century, and the goats have been ramming heads
1551. Replaced and restored over the years, the present
pair have been bludgeoning each other since 1954. Of
course there’s a half-baked legend to go along with
them: When the clock was completed in 1511, the
governor of the Poznań province was invited for the
unveiling. The hapless cook preparing the celebratory
feast burnt the venison, so he went out and managed
to steal a pair of goats to serve instead. Alas, the goats
escaped and traipsed up to the top of City Hall, where
the governor saw them butting heads and decreed they
be added to the clock. The rest, as they say, is history much like the cook, who was likely tied to the whipping
post and given a bloody good thrashing.QC‑2, Stary
Rynek 1, tel. (+48) 61 856 81 93, www.mnp.art.pl.
Open 09:00 - 15:00 (11:00 - 17:00 starting from June
16th), Fri 12:00 - 21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Last
entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 7/15zł, Sat free.
March - June 2016
THE ROYAL CASTLE
Poznań is liberally sprinkled with monuments, both
essential and obscure - not least of all on the market square,
which features over a half dozen fountains and sculptures.
Here we list Poznań’s most interesting monuments around
the rest of the city centre.
The Greek goddess Hygieia can be seen sitting serenely
upon this water well on Plac Wolności. The story begins
in 1841 when Edward Raczyński constructed the city
waterworks, choosing to place a well, decorated with
intricate reliefs, between Marcinkowskiego and Lutego
streets. In 1908 the well was moved down to ul. Podgórna,
but not before Albert Wolf further embellished it with the
goddess of good health, cleanliness and hygiene. The well
found its current place in 1971.QC‑2, Pl. Wolności.
Every European city worth its salt has a castle, and
Poznań actually has two. Indeed, the 20th century
‘Zamek’ west of the Old Town is neither Poznań’s oldest,
nor most important castle. Wander just one block west
of the market square and you’ll find yourself at the foot
of Góra Przemysła, crowned by Poznań’s former Royal
Castle, which is currently being rebuilt by the city to
reflect its former glory.
Once the pride of Poznań, the original construction
was begun approximately 1249 by Przemysł I - Duke
of the Piast dynasty who had chosen Poz as his capital.
Work on the royal residence was continued by his son,
and by the time Kazimierz the Great (a prince at the
time) moved in in the early 14th century, Poznań’s
Royal Castle was the largest non-ecclesiastical building
in Poland. Its fortunes took a serious turn for the worse
in early 18th century when it was sacked several times
in quick succession by the Swedes, the Russians, and
then disgruntled nobles. Governor General Kazimierz
Raczyński restored the medieval buildings and created
a state archive here in 1783 - a function it would serve
until WWII. During the Siege of 1945, the castle had
the misfortune of being in the line of fire with the Nazi
stronghold on Citadel Hill and that was that.
In 1959 the decision was taken to rebuild Raczyński’s
contribution to the hill, which today houses the
Applied Arts Museum (currently closed for
renovation). Until recently, the Castle’s rich historical
value as the seat of early Polish royalty, numerous royal
births, weddings and treaty signings seems to have
been undervalued, but that’s in the past now. In 2002 a
committee for rebuilding the Castle was founded and
work began in December 2010 on the total restoration
of Poznań’s Royal Castle. To date, most of the exterior
work has been completed, including the castle tower,
while the interiors should finally open to the public in
2016.QC‑1/2, Góra Przemysła.
54 Poznań In Your Pocket
MONUMENT OF THE 15TH
POZNAŃ LANCERS REGIMENT
This feisty fellow mounted on horseback commemorates
the 15th Poznań Lancers Regiment, which fought against
the Bolsheviks in 1920 and with the Poznań Army in 1939.
The original was created by Mieczysław Lubelski and Adam
Ballenstaedt and unveiled in 1927, but it was destroyed by
the Nazis during World War II. The version that exists today
was installed in 1982 and created by Józef Murlewski and
Benedykt Kasznia and is the site of military ceremonies and
the annual Poznań Lancers Day event (April 21-24 in 2016).
QC‑2, ul. Ludgardy.
MONUMENT OF THE POLISH UNDERGROUND
STATE & HOME ARMY
The work of Gdańsk artist Mariusz Kulpa, this large
installation dedicated to the wartime Polish Underground
State and Home Army was unveiled in September 2007
and consists of numerous tablets commemorating both
individuals and organisations, as well as six stone eagles
seemingly suspended in mid-air, which represent Poland’s
(seemingly paradoxical) flight and fight for independence.
It’s truly a stunning work, and even more so in the evening
when illuminated by the dim flicker of candles placed
in tribute.QA‑1, Between ul. Wieniawskiego and Al.
Niepodległości (Wieniawski Park).
MONUMENT TO THE VICTIMS
OF KATYŃ & SIBERIA
A walk around the castle grounds is a must, especially
the rose garden out back. It’s here one finds the Katyń
monument, a 6.5 metre bronze effort permanently
festooned with flowers and candles. Unveiled on
September 17, 1999 - the 60th anniversary of the Soviet
invasion - this hefty memorial commemorates the 22,000
Polish officers massacred by Beria’s NKVD in 1940.QA‑1,
Near the corner of ul. Fredry and Al. Niepodległości (The
Imperial Castle Garden).
The bronze statue of a man
with a bicycle that you may
find yourself colliding with
is that of Stary Marych (Old
Marych), one of Poznań’s
most beloved citizens. A
fictional character who came
to symbolise the typical
Poznanian, the grumpy but
decent Stary Marych was the
creation of Juliusz Kubel, and
featured heavily on Polish
radio, all the time speaking in his particular and highly
amusing Poznań dialect. Sculpted by Robert Sobociński,
the photogenic codger has stood since 2001.QC‑3,
Corner of ul. Półwiejska and ul. Strzelecka.
Former US president Woodrow Wilson can be found
fittingly in the park of his name (Park Wilsona). Though
it may seem an unexpected honour, put simply, few
outsiders did more than Wilson to ensure Poland’s
existence and independence after WWI. The Poles were
so grateful that upon his sudden passing a competition
to sculpt his likeness was undertaken and won by John
Gutzon de la Mothe Borglum, who at the same time was
famously profaning the Black Hills of South Dakota with
the profiles of four other former American presidents (now
known as Mount Rushmore National Monument). Erected
in the presence of Wilson’s widow in 1931, the original
monument was soon toppled by the Nazis, and after the
war the communist authorities were quick to rename the
park after Marcin Kasprzak. The fall of communism reversed
the renaming and an original design proposal by Polish
sculptress Zofia Trzcińska-Kamińska was uncovered and
executed by Jerzy Petruk, whose work has stood in the park
since 1994.QBetween ul. Głogowska, ul. Matejki and ul.
THE IMPERIAL CASTLE
More a palace than a ‘castle,’ work began on Poznań’s
fearsome ‘Zamek’ in 1905 to serve as the provincial
residence of Kaiser Wilhelm II. Designed in the neoRomanesque style by Franz Schwechten, the west
wing held Wilhelm’s living quarters, the east wing
his immaculate throne room, with the northern
part of the complex consisting of service rooms and
beautiful gardens based on the Alhambra’s Courtyard
of the Lions. The Kaiser got the keys in 1910 but didn’t
stay long before WWI and the following Wielkopolska
Uprising resulted in a Polish Poznań once again.
Between the wars the Zamek became the seat of
Poznań University, before the Third Reich swooped in
and Albert Speer, Hitler’s pet architect, transformed
the tower chapel into the Fuehrer’s office, and the
second floor into the residence of Arthur Greiser
(Nazi governor of the district). The castle was badly
damaged during the Soviet liberation and there was
even a post-war campaign to have the structure
bulldozed. In the end the drastic measures stopped
with reducing the principal tower to a third of its
Used by the University in the two years following the
war, and then as the seat of local government, the
Zamek has operated as a cultural centre since 1962,
hosting hundreds of theatre performances, concerts,
film screenings and other events in its palatial halls
each year. The basement houses the 1956 Uprising
Museum, and throughout the large complex visitors
will find several restaurants, cafes and bars, including
the popular Dubliner Irish Pub. Guided tours of the
castle in English are available for 150zł but must
be booked in advance by calling +48 61 646 52
88.QA‑2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646
52 60, www.ckzamek.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Free
admission without tour.
© GKor / Dollar Photo Club
March - June 2016
POZNAŃ TRADE FAIRS
While many foreign visitors to Central Europe may be
unfamiliar with Poznań, businesspeople involved in
foreign trade are likely to be more than aware of the
city. That’s because Poznań is Poland’s trade fair capital
with the title justified by the country’s largest fair
grounds, where the biggest and best fairs in Poland
take place each year.
Though Poznań’s rich trading tradition can be
traced back to the thirteenth century, the true
predecessor of today’s fair was the 1911 East German
Industrial Exhibition, which showcased Germany’s
achievements in annexed Polish territories. Six years
later the Union of Merchant Associations, comprising
merchants from Greater Poland and Eastern
Pomerania, decided to develop a specialised cyclical
expo based on the successful model of the Leipzig
Trade Fair. This idea reached fruition on May 28, 1921,
when the first Poznań Fair took place. Since then,
the Fair’s fortunes have risen and fallen according to
the political and economic changes that periodically
moved through Poland and Europe: from playing a
key role in re-integrating economic activities in the
newly independent second Polish Republic, to the
near-demise of the fair complex during WWII air raids
(which destroyed the iconic Upper Silesian Tower),
and to a new start in the post-war communist state.
Though the 1950s were a time of uncertainty and
tension, with the fair closed down for a few years due
to the Cold War atmosphere, the ‘60s proved to be a
period of robust growth, so much so that organisers
started running out of exposition space. From 1973
on, the event was broken up into smaller chunks, as
more specialised fairs branched off from the main
Currently, the Poznań International Fair constitutes
over 60% of the Polish exhibition industry, hosting
some 10,000 exhibitors a year - approximately a
quarter of them foreign - in the complex’s sixteen halls,
which add up to 150,000 square meters of space. The
total number of annual visitors attending the sixty
or so trade fair events - everything from welding to
horticulture, logistics to beach fashion - usually reaches
half a million.
56 Poznań In Your Pocket
Housed in the beautiful 16th-century Górka Palace,
Poznań’s Archaelogy Museum contains a collection
of 42,000 rare and mystifying objects that chart life in
Ancient Egypt and prehistoric Poland. The first part of the
museum takes you through the earliest settlements in the
region, with life-sized figures as well as miniature dioramas
depicting life from the Stone Age to the Iron Age. The
other permanent exhibit, ‘Death and Life in Ancient Egypt,’
features 120 rare pieces, from a granite obelisk of Rameses
II to the mummified remains of a woman named Hat.
QD‑2, ul. Wodna 27 (Pałac Górków), tel. (+48) 61 852
82 51, www.muzarp.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00;
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 8/4zł, family ticket 20zł. Sat free. Guided tours
by prior arrangement 70zł. Free audio guides avaliable
in English. YU
HISTORICAL MUSEUM OF POZNAŃ
The show-stealing Town Hall proves a fitting venue for a
museum of this stature. The gothic cellars - originally the
municipal prison - hold exhibits dating back to the earliest
times of settlement in the 10th century. On the ground
floor, rooms built in the 16th century hold exhibits covering
the city’s urban and economic development during that
time. The Renaissance Hall, Royal Hall and Court Hall on the
first floor hold the most valuable documents and artefacts,
and the opulent vaulted ceilings - depicting griffins, lions
and eagles - are worth the photography surcharge alone.
Exhibits include a 13th century crosier from Limoges, a
table clock with the Poznań coat of arms from 1575 and a
globe from 1688 - resist the temptation to give it a spin lest
you wish to incur the wrath of hawkish curators. Much of
the second floor is dedicated to the 19th century when the
city was under Prussian rule, and features everyday objects
and portraits of prominent citizens. The final part of the
museum depicts the history of 20th century Poznań, and
exhibits include the disturbing photograph of a swastika
fluttering from the Town Hall.QC‑2, Stary Rynek 1, tel.
(+48) 61 856 81 93, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00
(11:00 - 17:00 from June 16th), Fri 12:00 - 21:00; Sat, Sun
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 7/1-5zł, Sat free. YN
LITERARY MUSEUM OF HENRYK SIENKIEWICZ
Winner of the Nobel Prize in 1905, and once one of
the world’s most popular authors, Sienkiewicz is best
known internationally as the author of Quo Vadis, a
birth-of-Christianity epic that has been translated into 50
languages. This museum dedicated to his legacy is located
in a house that once belonged the Italian architect Jean
Baptiste Quadro (that’s his bust you can see outside), and
the collection is the life work of Ignacy Moś, who started
collecting Sienkiewicz memorabilia after helping to free
Sienkiewicz’s only son from the Gestapo. The exhibition
includes the author’s Lennon-style specs, post-mortem
facial and hand casts, correspondences and a collection
of his novels including an English version of Quo Vadis
dating from 1899. The opulent rooms are crowded with
chandeliers, portraits and period furniture, his writing desk,
and pictures of our hero posing with his series of wives.
Though recently fully renovated and featuring more of
the requisite multimedia trappings of modern museums,
this special interest exhibit remains a domain that should
probably be reserved for literary scholars and Sienkiewicz’s
extended family. If that’s you, you’ll be delighted to discover
that an audioguide is now available in English and German.
QD‑2, Stary Rynek 84, tel. (+48) 61 852 89 71, www.
bracz.edu.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 4/2zł, Sat free. N
MODELS OF POZNAŃ
A huge model that shows Poznań in its form as
presented in Brau-Hogenburg’s illustration sketched
in 1618. Constructed over a period of six years the
model takes up a space of 50m2 and is built on a scale
of 1:150. The decorative details are impressive, and
you can expect lots of kids as well as anoraked model
enthusiasts pulling up the school seats around it as they
wait for the show to begin. As the lights dim a recorded
commentary begins and visitors are taken through the
area-by-area story of Poznań’s development. Foreigners
are given headsets broadcasting heavily accented
commentary in the language of their choice, though
this is at times drowned out by hilarious background
noise that includes medieval soldiers screaming in
agony. And it doesn’t end there. Now they’ve added
similar models depicting Poznań in the 10th century,
as well as a detailed model of the main square.QC‑2,
ul. Ludgardy 1, tel. (+48) 61 855 14 35, www.makieta.
poznan.pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00 (until 19:15 from June
1st). Admission 15zł. YN
One of the smallest museums in Poznań, and certainly
the trickiest to find - go through the courtyard, ring
the doorbell then climb to the second floor. The series
of rooms here are filled with rusty pots, scales, vials
and cast iron mortars from the 17-19th centuries.
While once you’d find yourself wandering around
in ignorance, the museum now offers small guides
in English, German and French. One room has been
designed to mimic a 19th century pharmacy - complete
with a box for morphine - while another includes over
1,200 rare medical books, a stuffed alligator and an
inmate’s uniform recovered from Mathausen.QC‑2, Al.
Marcinkowskiego 11, tel. (+48) 61 851 66 15. Open
09:00 - 15:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun. Last entrance
1 hour before closing. Admission free.
After being annexed by Nazi Germany in 1939,
Poznań was incorporated into the Third Reich and
underwent aggressive Germanisation, with over
100,000 civilians expelled from the city and replaced
with Volksdeutch settlers from the Baltic States and
other regions. Of those ‘exiled’ many actually died
in mass executions conducted in 1940 in the area
surrounding Lake Rusałka (just off the map near
E-1). It was also in Poznań in 1943 that Himmler
declared Nazi intentions to exterminate Jewish life,
and today little survives of Poznań’s Jewish heritage
(p.65), with the early 19th century graveyard on ul.
Głogowska (E‑4) destroyed by the Nazis, before being
incorporated into the Poznań International Trade Fair
complex (p.56) by communist authorities after the
Under occupation, Poznań’s Imperial Castle (p.55)
was remodelled as a residence for Nazi Governor
Arthur Greiser by infamous Reich architect Albert
Speer. Gestapo HQ was located in Dom Żołnierza
(ul. Niezłomnych 1), which became an interrogation
centre with thousands of Poles tortured in the
basement. It was stormed by the Red Army in February
1945 and fiercely defended by the SS, who ultimately
opted for mass suicide over capture. Completely
battered by this siege, the only original remnant of
the building is its tower, spared the brunt of Soviet
aggression so it could be used as a reference point
by artillery units. Prisoners processed through Dom
Żołnierza usually ended up in the (still functioning)
prison on ul. Młynska (B‑1), or the notorious Fort VII
west of the Old Town. The first Nazi concentration
camp established on Polish soil, this 19th century
fort today serves as the Wielkopolska Martyrs
Museum (p.59), and its sombre subterranean
chambers are filled with relics recovered from the site
– photographs, cutlery, wallets and rosaries. Outside,
the ‘Death Wall’ commemorates the thousands shot
by firing squad.
The Soviet siege of Poznań resulted in 90% total
destruction of the city’s Old Town, and a few images
of the city in ruins can be viewed in the Historical
Museum of Poznań inside the Town Hall (p.56).
Another area defended to the last man was the fortress
in Citadel Park just north of the Old Town, which today
houses two military museums - the Poznań Army
Museum and the Museum of Armaments (p.63).
In addition to several war monuments, Citadel Park
also hosts a British military cemetery (p.63), which
is the resting place of Allied airmen shot down over
Poland during WWII and also several of those captured
during “The Great Escape” - the famous POW escape
story popularised by the Hollywood movie with Steve
March - June 2016
LECH VISITOR CENTRE
The Poznań Brewery - one of the largest in PL, and
producers of Lech, Tyskie, Żubr, and Redds - lies on the
outskirts of the city and is a must for beer aficionados.
There is no minimum number of people required for a
tour, so you can happily book by yourself, but they do
ask that you make an appointment the day before, or at
very least on the morning of your planned visit. Despite
this, our unannounced arrival presented no significant
problems, other than having to wait half an hour in the
bar (our preferred habitat) while a guide was rustled up.
The two-hour tour, available in English and German,
is both informative and thorough, and guided by
employees of the brewery chosen for their experience
and interest in the brewing process. The brewery itself,
dating from 1980, is fairly impressive and thoroughly
modern. The first hour of the tour consists of a waltz
through the production process, fermentation and
mashing, as well as the usual guff about water
purity and the like. The most striking thing about the
production plant is the lack of humans and the sheer
amount of sparkling steel and technology. For your
second hour you’ll be whisked off to the ‘multimedia
centre’ for a film on the history of the company, as
well as a galaxy of other attractions telling the story
of Lech. We recommend that you take notes because
you will be quizzed on the film when it finishes, we kid
you not. Later, have your photo taken inside a huge
can of Lech, which you can then instantly email to all
of your friends, or get involved in the bottling process
which is guaranteed to bring out the child engineer in
everyone. The tour finishes with a well-earned beer,
which you can choose from their portfolio of brands,
and you of course exit through the gift shop.
To get to the brewery take tram 16 from ‘Most Teatralny’
(F-3) to ‘Szwajcarska’ and you can’t miss the brewery
opposite the M1 shopping centre, as it has three huge
towers draped in bright green Lech flags. Alternatively
a taxi ride from the centre will set you back about 25zł.
Qul. Szwajcarska 11 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61
667 74 60, www.zwiedzaniebrowaru.pl. Open 10:00
- 20:00. Closed Sun. Tours start every 2 hours from
10:00 onwards with the last tour at 18:00. You should
book a day in advance. Admission 12/6zł. Y
58 Poznań In Your Pocket
An excellent museum with a rich collection of modern
Polish art (including interesting Impressionist works)
in the new wing, and medieval art, impressive Italian,
Dutch, and Flemish paintings in the connected old
building. The museum also holds the largest collection
of Spanish art (including Zurbaran and Ribera) in
Poland and plenty of Polish art from the 16th century
onwards. In addition, a Monet painting stolen in 2000
was recently recovered and is back on display. Selected
paintings have extensive English explanations about
the artist and topic.QC‑2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 9, tel.
(+48) 61 856 80 00, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 09:00
- 15:00 (11:00 - 17:00 starting from June 16th), Fri
12:00 - 21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last
entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/18zł, Sat free. YN
POZNAŃ BAMBER MUSEUM
Learn more than you ever wanted to about the Bamber
people inside an interesting museum that includes a
19th century timber house once owned by a wealthy
Bamber farmer. Inside displays include a 17th century
bonnet, looms, paintings, clothing and timber furniture
- everything you’d expect in an ethnographic museum.
QD‑2, ul. Mostowa 7/9, tel. (+48) 605 62 16 11, www.
bambrzy.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Admission free. U
POZNAŃ CROISSANT MUSEUM
Considering how much of a Poznań trademark St.
Martin’s croissants are, it’s surprising that a museum
dedicated to them has only just recently popped up
in the city. The Croissant Museum hosts daily shows
at 11:10 (the “Croissant and Goat Show”), 12:30, 13:45
(in English, Sat-Sun during off-season, daily from July
until September), and 15:00; they include a multimedia
presentation, legends, a tour of the historic museum
building, a chance to bake croissants using traditional
tools, and - of course - a tasting.QD‑2, Stary Rynek
41/2 (entrance from ul. Klasztorna 23), tel. (+48) 690
07 78 00, www.rogalowemuzeum.pl. Closed Mon.
Read more reviews online:
WIELKOPOLSKA MARTYRS MUSEUM
One of 18 forts built by the Prussians in the 1870s to protect
Poznań’s perimeter, ‘Fort VII’ gained notoriety when it was
used as a Gestapo penal camp between 1939 and 1944.
At least 18,000 Polish prisoners were processed here, of
which 4,500 were murdered, though other estimates
have the death toll as high as 20,000. The windswept
grassy grounds make for a thought-provoking walk,
along which visitors will see the ‘death wall’ - where up
to seven prisoners were executed daily during Nazi rule,
as well as dark underground tunnels used as makeshift
gas chambers. Elsewhere a vaulted brick room holds a
small but haunting display that includes a guillotine, an
execution block, truncheons, whips, and arrest warrants.
The personal effects of prisoners have also been preserved,
including hand-written letters, playing cards, rosaries, and
identity papers. Chillingly graffiti etched into the walls by
prisoners can still be discerned, the writing framed with
red and white ribbons. Reaching Fort VII is not an easy task,
however. It’s found in the western suburbs, so your best bet
is a taxi, with reputable drivers charging around 20-22zł for
the journey.QAl. Polska (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 848 31 38,
www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. Open 09:00
- 16:00 (until 17:00 from April 1st), Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes before closing.
Admission 2/1zł. Tue free. N
WIELKOPOLSKA MILITARY MUSEUM
Situated inside a brutal communist-era pavilion, the
Military Museum documents the history of the Polish
military from the 11th century onwards. Starting with
scythes and halberds the collection includes the armour
of winged hussars, sabres, muskets and cannons, as well
as portraits of Polish military commanders and famous
moments in their history. The unwieldy musket ‘kolowy’ is a
particularly impressive effort, and surely completely useless
in combat. The 20th century section features grenades,
compasses and medical kits, and the upstairs is devoted
to the Wielkopolska Uprising, with medals, uniforms and
postcards from the era. The collection was decimated
during WWII, with the only surviving item being a fragment
of Wojciech Kossak’s 1901 painting, The Battle of the
Pyramids.QD‑2, Stary Rynek 9, tel. (+48) 61 852 67 39,
www.mnp.art.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00;
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. From June 16 open
11:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 7/1-5zł. Sat free. YN
GET THE APP
Originally built in 1980, when Poznań was chosen to
host the EURO2012 football championship, the city’s
stadium was redeveloped rather than completely
reconstructed, and capacity raised from 27,000 to
43,090, at an investment of €160 million. Today the
home of popular local side Lech Poznań, INEA Stadium is one of the top stadiums in Europe, featuring covered seating throughout, plus all the service
points you would expect at a modern sports complex,
including the rather splendid ‘12 Sports Bar & Restaurant.’ Host to large-scale events throughout the year,
the stadium has also become a bit of a tourist attraction with 45min-1hr guided tours available in Polish,
English, German and French, during which you’ll get
a chance to experience the changing rooms that Lech
Poznań call home, the Presidential boxes, press room,
conference room, the Hall of Fame, and, of course, the
pitch itself; check their website for exact tour times
and prices. Getting there is easy - just catch tram no.
13 from ‘Wrocławska’, getting off at ‘INEA Stadion’.Qul.
Bułgarska 17 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 886 30 31,
www.ineastadion.pl. Tours start at 10:30, 12:00,
14:00, 16:00 Mon-Fri, and 10:30, 12:00, 13:30, 15:00
on the weekends; more times might be added dur‑
ing the summer. Admission 15zł, students 10zł, kids
ages 6-13 5zł, kids under 5 free.
March - June 2016
Crossing Jordan Bridge into Ostrów Tumski | Photo by Zbigniew Szmidt, Courtesy of TRAKT Center for Cultural Tourism
Just north-east of the centre of Poznań sits Ostrów Tumski
(Cathedral Island) - the island where Poznań was founded,
and “where Poland began” in the words of Pope John Paul
II. According to the prolific legend, three Slav brothers
known as Lech, Czech and Rus met on this tiny island after
not seeing each other for many years. To commemorate
their reunion the brothers named the place ‘Poznać,’ after
the Polish word for ‘to meet.’ From there the island thrived,
with a castle erected in the 9th century and Ostrow Tumski
becoming a major centre of the Piast state. More than
a millennium ago one of Poland’s first rulers, Mieszko I,
ushered the country into Catholicism here and soon after
the first bishopric was established in 968. The first iteration
of the Cathedral of Poznań was built in the second half of
the 10th century, and in the island’s thousand-year history
it has been home to kings and bishops alike. Remains of
19th century Prussian fortifications are still visible on the
Cybina riverside, easily viewable from the Jordan Bridge
(I-3). In more recent times the Communists showed their
disdain for the Catholic Church’s heavy presence in Poznań
by building a road across the island that bisected the
Archbishop’s garden (what jerks!).
A trip to Ostrów Tumski not only makes a peaceful respite
from the tackiness and tourist noise of Stary Rynek, but also
serves as an important crash course on early Polish history
and Poznań’s role in the country’s birth as a nation. Taking
that task on as its very mission, in fact, is the new Porta
Posnania Centre, which straddles the river (with its own
bridge) between Ostrów Tumski and Śródka, and should be
considered the mandatory starting point for all visitors before
carrying on to the magnificent Poznań Cathedral itself.
60 Poznań In Your Pocket
PORTA POSNANIA INTERACTIVE HERITAGE
CENTRE OF CATHEDRAL ISLAND
Opened in early 2014, this modern culture complex
symbolically connects Poznań’s two oldest districts Ostrów Tumski and Śródka - via a covered ‘skywalk’ bridge
between the main exhibition building and the Cathedral
Lock - a restored section of the former Prussian river
fortifications. The main building is actually on the Śródka
side of the Cybina River, and presents the fascinating
history of the area from medieval times to the modern
day, emphasising its importance to Polish national
identity along the way, via an excellent audioguide and
interactive multimedia displays designed for the entire
family. The touring route concludes by leading visitors
across the ‘skywalk’ straight into Ostrów Tumski itself,
making this the ideal starting point for exploring the
district. The audioguides are an extra charge, but are
intended to be used to explore not just the Centre, but
the entire district. Available in English, German, French,
Spanish, Czech, and Russian, there are three specially
designed audiotour routes - one for individuals, one for
groups, and one for families - that make the experience
worthwhile for everyone, especially kids. Topping it off is
a souvenir shop and a lovely rooftop terrace that offers
unique views of Poznań Cathedral and the surrounding
area. Highly recommended.QI‑3, ul. Gdańska 2, tel.
(+48) 61 647 76 34, www.bramapoznania.pl. Open
09:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00; closed Mon.
Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission for
the permanent exhibition 15/9zł. Family ticket (up
to 5 people) 30zł. Group tickets (10+ people) 8zł per
person. Audio guide 5/3zł, family 10zł. U
The most stunning site on Ostrów Tumski is certainly
Peter & Paul Cathedral, more commonly called ‘Poznan
Cathedral,’ which ‘Cathedral Island’ takes its name from.
Originally erected way, way back in 968, this was the first
cathedral in Poland, and has had a storied history. As it
was razed, rebuilt and remodelled numerous times over
the centuries, each resulted in the addition of a new
architectural style: a 1622 fire led to a Baroque finish,
while a 1722 fire ushered in a change to neo-Classicism.
During the 1945 battle to liberate Poznań, 65 percent of
the Cathedral again burned down, exposing the building’s
buried Gothic elements and leading to its restoration in the
style visitors see today.
The interior is a trove of sacral and historical treasures,
surrounded by twelve different chapels, including
the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament, which has several
outstanding examples of Renaissance art (the tombstones
of the Górka family and Bishop Benedykt Izbieński, to be
specific) and the Baroque altar houses a miraculous crucifix
brought to the Cathedral from the former Wrocławska
town gate. The Golden Chapel was designed as the
mausoleum of the first Polish monarchs and houses the
sarcophagi of Kings Mieszko I and Bolesław Chrobry;
the two kings are also depicted in a bronze monument
together, above which is a painting by January Suchodolski
showing Mieszko I, the instigator of Catholicism in Poland,
destroying pagan idols.
CHURCH OF THE VIRGIN MARY
This small Gothic church was built in 1432-1448 and
is modelled on the West Pomeranian building style,
with a three-nave hall, star vaulting and polychromatic
decorations. The altar was designed by Wacław
Taranczewski in 1954. The adjoining building with the
crowstep gables is a Late Gothic Psalteria, dating to
1518, which contained flats for the clergy. Unfortunately
the church is closed for renovation until 2016, so it is
presently impossible to get inside.QI‑3, ul. Panny Marii,
tel. (+48) 61 852 96 42, www.katedra.archpoznan.pl.
Adjacent to the Cathedral is the large Lubrański Academy
building, once home to Bishop Jan Lubrański’s institute
of higher learning and today the Museum of the
Archdiocese. The first floor is devoted to temporary
exhibits, while the next two floors are filled with all
manner of religious art and relics, including the sword
of Saint Peter, numerous statues and paintings of the
Madonna, Jesus, and various saints, plus well-preserved
robes and heavily-bejewelled rings from Poznan’s long
line-up of bishops.QI‑2, ul. Lubrańskiego 1, tel. (+48)
61 852 61 95, www.muzeum.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission
8/5zł, family ticket 12zł. YN
The eye-catching high altar at the centre of the Cathedral
is a 14th/15th polyptych depicting Our Lady surrounded
by 14 female saints, while the outer wings feature eight
paintings depicting the Passion of the Christ. The Cathedral’s
lavish Baroque pulpit is equally stunning and dates to 1720.
Also worth noting are the Cathedral’s five Gothic and early
Renaissance bronze tomb slabs, which originated at the
famed Nuremburg workshop of Herman and Peter Vischer.
The slabs were originally on the Cathedral floor to cover the
entrances to tombs, but were later mounted on pillars and
chapel walls. Stolen during the war, the slabs were returned
to Poznań in 1993 and are back on display.
GENIUS LOCI ARCHEOLOGICAL PARK
Genius Loci gives a different view on Poznań’s medieval
genesis by unearthing, reconstructing, and offering insight
into the lives of those early individuals who inhabited
the island one thousand years ago. Explore multimedia
displays and documentary films, and brave the glass
walkways while peering down at the city’s original walls
and embankments. The audioguide (included in the price)
comes in both Polish and English and helps explain how
Poznań took shape centuries ago.QI‑3, ul. Ks. I. Posadzego
3, tel. (+48) 61 852 21 67, www.muzarp.poznan.pl/
rezerwat. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Fri 11:00 - 18:00 (until
19:00 starting from April 1st), Sat 09:00 - 17:00 (until
19:00 starting from April 1st), Sun 10:00 - 15:00; closed
Mon. Admission 6/4zł, family ticket 10zł. Sun free. Y
Visit the vestry to request entry to the crypt, where you’ll
see evidence of the pre-Romanesque and Romanesque
versions of the Cathedral, and a 10th century baptismal
font most likely used to baptise the first Polish sovereign
and his subjects. Excavations here also unearthed two
tombs, most likely of the first Polish monarchs Mieszko I
and King Bolesław Chrobry. The second crypt houses an
exhibition of artefacts found during the excavation, and
it also leads to the crypt of the Poznań archbishops. Be
aware that the lights in the crypt are motion-activated, so
if you stand and look too long, you’ll suddenly end up in
the dark.QI‑3, Ostrów Tumski 17, tel. (+48) 61 852 96
42, www.katedra.archpoznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00
(until 19:00 starting from April 1st). No visiting during
mass please. Crypt entrance 3.50/2.50zł, rest of the
Porta Posnania Interactive Heritage Centre of Cathedral Island
March - June 2016
The ‘Rose Garden’ | Photo by Andrzej Otrębski / Wikipedia / CC BY-SA 3.0
Just north of Poznań’s Old Town sits Winiary Hill and 89
hectares of picture-perfect green space known as Citadel
Park. Much like any coveted location in Poland, this scenic
overlook has a long history that involves multiple name
changes, military battles and even some old-fashioned
mystery. For visitors, the park offers not only beautiful
promenades and leafy city escapes, but also a plethora of
monuments, museums and historical tales.
The hill itself didn’t become notable until Prussia took
over Poland in 1793 and Poznań suddenly found itself in
a strategic location on the Prussian-Russian border, less
than 300km from Berlin. A fort seemed in order, and design
responsibilities were given over to the exasperatinglynamed General Carl Wilhelm Georg von Grolman. Work
began in 1828 after moving two villages - Winiary and
Bonin - to make room, and continued over the next decade.
The result was an impressive polygonal brick fortress with
1.3-1.8 metre-thick walls, observation towers, artillery
decks and even a moat, making it the central element of
the city’s defences.
Despite the efforts that went into the construction, and
seemingly opportune wars with Denmark, Austria and
France, the fort saw little military action, instead serving as
a military prison throughout the 19th century. By the time
WWI arrived, the fort was too outdated for modern warfare
and played no role until it was captured by insurgents
during the Wielkopolska Uprising in 1918, after which it
62 Poznań In Your Pocket
was home to Polish army units throughout the inter-war
years. When Nazi Germany occupied Poland in 1939 the
fort returned to its role as a POW camp (British, Russian
and Polish soldiers ended up here) until it was thrust into
the history books as the final Nazi stronghold during the
Battle of Poznań in 1945, finally captured by the Soviets on
February 23, 1945.
After the war, the ravaged and obsolete fort was largely
dismantled, contributing its bricks to help rebuild local
housing estates and decimated cities like Warsaw. Yet
plenty of the fort still remains, and those intrepid enough
to wander off the park’s paths will be rewarded with a
close-up look at history (this is where a guide comes in
handy, as ours pointed out locations of strategic Russian
movements, how the fort was breached, and even the
charred bricks where a group of the last German soldiers
evidently met their end). Under communism, the fort and
surrounding area were given a new strategic purpose when
Winiary Hill was turned into the chummy ‘Monument Park
of Polish-Russian Friendship and Brotherhood’ in 1962,
and a Russian cemetery and Red Army memorial soon
found a home here. Re-dubbed ‘Citadel Hall’ in 1992
after the regime finally fell, today visitors will find this
former military stronghold is home to art installations,
monuments, several museums, cemeteries and large
outdoor events. There are few better ways to spend an
afternoon in Poznań than exploring all there is to see and
do in the city’s largest park.
WHAT TO SEE
BRITISH MILITARY CEMETERY
Citadel Park hosts several cemeteries, but the one typically
of most interest to tourists is British Military Cemetery (also
known as the Commonwealth Cemetery). Why? It’s here
that you’ll find the graves of several of the men involved
in what is now known as “The Great Escape” (it wasn’t just
a movie folks!). In addition to the 174 servicemen from
the First World War (all of whom died in various parts of
Poland as prisoners of war) there are also 283 World War II
servicemen buried in the cemetery. Many of those graves
are airmen who died in bombing operations over what is
now the Polish city of Szczecin, but there are also several
graves of soldiers involved in the mass escape from Stalag
Luft 3 in Żagań, a feat depicted in the popular Hollywood
film, The Great Escape.
Following their daring escape, most of the fugitives were
captured by the Nazis, executed and their ashes were
buried in the local cemetery at Sagan/Żagań, before being
later moved to the military cemetery in Poznań where they
can be found today. To locate them enter the cemetery
at al. Armii Poznań (G-2); turn right and you’ll see a large
white cross and the graves of most of the murdered. The
man considered to be the mastermind of the escape is
Squadron Leader Roger Bushell, renamed “Bartlett” in the
film and portrayed by Richard Attenborough. Keep the
name change in mind when looking for Bushell’s grave,
and be sure to sign the visitor’s book that can be found
inside a small door on the large white cross monument.
QG‑2, Citadel Park. Open from dawn till dusk.
If the weather is nice there’s no reason not to walk to
Citadel Park from the Rynek. The stroll is just under 2km
and should take 25-30 minutes. Those who prefer a
quicker route can grab a bus at the ‘Fredry’ stop (near
Pl. Ratajskiego, B‑2) and take it four stops to the ‘Armii
Poznan’ stop outside the park. Another option is tram
#3 from ‘Małe Garbary’ near the Rynek (D‑1); seven stops
later you jump off at ‘Armii Poznań’ and you’re there.
Unveiled as part of Poznań’s 750th birthday celebrations
in 2002, this massive troop of towering, headless cast iron
figures marching aimlessly across Citadel Park is officially titled
“Unrecognised” (“Nierozpoznani”). 112 in all, each measuring
2 metres tall, the odd installation is the work of local arts grad
and international art star Magdalena Abakanowicz, who is
keeping mum on its meaning. Those with ties to Chicago might
recognise a similar installation in Grant Park, while a few more of
Abakanowicz’s headless fright patrol can be found wandering
lost in the courtyard of the Imperial Castle.QH‑1, Park Cytadela.
Archiwum Urzędu Miasta Poznania, fot. D. Krakowiak
MONUMENT TO THE HEROES
OF THE POZNAN CITADEL
One of the most noticeable features of Citadel Park is the Soviet
Obelisk located prominently at the top of the grand staircase
as you enter the park from Aleja Armii Poznan (G-2). The giant
Socialist Realism column is dedicated to the Russian soldiers
killed during the 1945 siege of the fort, and it’s most interesting
aspect is perhaps the one you can no longer see: the large
red star affixed to the top which disappeared in the dead of
night after the fall of communism in Poland in 1989. Official
complaints by the Russian Embassy to track down the star and
its thieves were, unsurprisingly, largely ignored by police, and for
years the public was left to speculate what became of the red
emblem (a rumour that the star was filled with jewels proved
to be one popular urban myth). In recent years, however, a local
journalist looking into the mystery was able to swiftly solve it:
local firemen had removed the star using their rescue ladders.
They fessed up and turned it over without consequence to the
city, which has plans to restore it and eventually put it on display
at the Historical Museum of Poznań.QG‑1, Park Cytadela.
MUSEUM OF ARMAMENTS
The remains of this Prussian fort (which was used as a war
laboratory to produce gunpowder and shells during World
War II) prove to be the perfect location for the Museum of
Armaments, which features displays of various weaponry and
ammunition as well as photos of battles from Poznań’s history.
Most interesting for military buffs however is the outdoor
exhibition laden with a whole host of war machinery including
a T-34 tank, a ‘Katyusha’ rocket launcher, bombers and a MIG15.QG‑1, Park Cytadela, tel. (+48) 61 820 45 03, www.
muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3zł, Fri free; ticket
also valid for the nearby Poznań Army Museum. N
March - June 2016
1945 BATTLE OF POZNAŃ
Sadly, Poznań’s city centre shared the same fate as many
Polish cities in the tragic events of WWII. Nearly 90%
destroyed, the city had to be painstakingly reconstructed
in the postwar years. While bombings were responsible
for much of the structural damage, the real nail to the
coffin came in the shape of the 1945 Battle of Poznań,
a month-long confrontation between the advancing
Soviet army and the retreating Nazis. The city had just
been declared by Hitler to be a Festung - a stronghold
where garrisons mounted last-ditch stands in the hopes
of holding out behind advancing Soviet lines and
disrupting supply transports and lines of communication.
40,000 German troops, including fortress garrison
soldiers, regular field soldiers, Volkssturm, SS, and
Police soldiers, barricaded themselves in 19th-century
fortifications built during Prussian rule, including the
Fort Winiary citadel. On January 24th, 100,000 Soviet
forces led by General Chuikov moved in and encircled
the city, beginning to attack and reduce the fortifications.
Systematically pushed into a smaller and smaller
perimeter, by February 12th the Germans only held the
citadel. Six days later the final assault began. Faced with
a deep ditch and high rampart, the Soviet troops had no
better option than to use ladders to cross (in a bizarrely
Medieval twist), but once they did, fire opened from
the citadel’s redoubts. It took the Soviets three days to
neutralise the redoubts and build an impromptu bridge,
which allowed tanks and heavy machinery to cross into
the main grounds on February 22nd. At that point, luck
had most definitely ran out for Nazi General Gonell and
his army; Gonell committed suicide by shooting himself
in the head, and the remaining 12,000 German soldiers
were turned over to the victors by General Mattern. Today
the Poznań Citadel Park is a historic site featuring military
cemeteries, memorials, and two museums: the Museum
of Armaments and the Poznań Army Museum.
The Old Town Hall had seen better days
64 Poznań In Your Pocket
POZNAŃ ARMY MUSEUM
Recently re-opened after a long renovation, the museum
provides visitors with the chance to learn more about the
city’s military history, with particular focus on the Second
World War and the inter-war period. A large number of
items from these times are on display, including various
newspaper cuttings, weapons, photos and uniforms. But
other eras are covered too, with some artefacts - such as
old bullets and army storage devices - dating back as far
as 1897. Note that the ticket also includes entrance to the
Museum of Armaments, also located in Citadel Park.QH‑2,
Al. Armii Poznań (Po. Armii Poznań Citadel), tel. (+48)
61 820 45 03, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.
pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 6/3zł, Fri free; ticket also valid for the nearby
Museum of Armaments. YN
Certainly one of the nicest and most popular parts of Citadel
Park, particularly in fine weather, is the ‘rosarium.’ Consisting
of six landscaped terraces planted with different roses, trees
and shrubs descending to a small lake at its centre, this is
perhaps Poz’s most romantic corner, as evidenced by all
the couples getting very cosy on the numerous benches
scattered about. Go for a stroll, stop to smell the roses, and
maybe sneak in a snog on the side.QG‑1, Park Cytadela.
THE BELL OF PEACE
AND FRIENDSHIP AMONG NATIONS
Erected in 1986, the ‘Bell of Peace and Friendship Among
Nations’ was installed too late to spare Poznań from a
largely turbulent 20th century, but it plays a role in the
remembering when it’s rung on holidays and anniversaries
such as Liberation Day (February 23rd) when the Germans
capitulated at the fort during World War II. Weighing 850
kg, the dove-embossed bell hangs 10m above the ground
and can allegedly be heard from 10km away.QH‑1, Park
The history of Jews in Poznań dates back to the first days
of the city, though like so many other towns in Central and
Eastern Europe this rich heritage was all but extinguished
with the horrors that followed Hitler’s rise to power.
Although first recorded mention of a Jewish presence is
dated to 1364, it is commonly accepted that the first Jewish
settlers arrived in the 13th century when Prince Bolesław
the Pious issued a decree granting Jews his protection. As
Poznań grew so did the Jewish population, and by the start
of the 15th century it’s estimated that one in four buildings
on ulica Sukiennicza - the de facto centre of the Jewish
community - were occupied by Jews, a fact not lost on
city planners who promptly rechristened it ‘ulica Żydowska,’
or ‘Jewish Street’ (D‑1). An influx of German burghers
and suspicious arsons marked a 15th century decline for
Poznań’s Jews, though Poznań’s Jewish population stood
around 3,000 in the early 17th century when racial tensions
reached a nadir with the infamous 1736 trial of Rabbi
Yossef, who was accused of ritual slaughter and publicly
burnt at the stake.
When the city fell under Prussian jurisdiction in the 19th
century, however, Jews slowly found themselves accepted
into the fold. Following the Great Fire of 1803 they were
allowed to live freely throughout the rest of the city and as
such ties between Jews and Germans strengthened. In fact,
so solid were these relations that the Jewish community
rallied around the Germans during the 1918-1919
Wielkopolska Uprising, a fact not forgotten by the local
Poles. When Poznań was absorbed into the Polish nation
in 1919 the Jews found themselves once more on the hard
end of local feelings, and a significant number migrated
west to Germany, where they expected greater tolerance.
With WWII looming, Poznań’s Jewish population stood
around 1,500 - a number that would vanish soon after the
city was annexed into the Third Reich in 1939. The city was
named capital of the Wartegau province, and a plan was
hatched to rid the city of its Jews within three months.
Deportations began on December 11th of the same year,
with Jews packed into cattle trucks bound for the ghettos
of Warsaw or Lublin, and on April 15, 1940, the fascist rag
Ostdeutscher Beobachter gleefully reported the removal
of the Star of David from the last synagogue left standing.
Those who remained in the Poznań region were sent to a
labour camp next to the city stadium where their duties
primarily consisted of building roads and other backbreaking work. The camp operated until August 1943,
when the decision was taken to liquidate both camp and
inmates. Indeed, Poznań was something of a model Nazi
city, and on October 4, 1943, Heinrich Himmler gave a
sordid speech to his Nazi cronies about the extermination
of the Jewish people. A small number of Jews survived
in hiding, and after the war several hundred actually
returned to re-settle in the city. However no effort was
made by the government to re-establish Jewish culture,
and the subsequent anti-Zionist policies of the post-war
communist government saw the number of Jews dwindle
to well under a hundred.
The Old Synagogue/’Swimagogue’ at ul. Wroniecka 11a
The Nazis were meticulous in their destruction of Jewish
heritage and traces of it are few and far between today.
Rather miraculously, however, Poznań’s Old Synagogue
(D‑1, ul. Wroniecka 11a) survived the war by being
converted into a swimming pool and rehabilitation
centre for Wehrmacht officers. The ‘swimagogue’ (as it was
cheekily known) was returned to the Jewish community
in 2002, however disrepair forced its closure and plans for
its restoration have stalled.
The early 19th century Jewish cemetery on ul.
Głogowska was destroyed and its tombstones used
to pave roads during WWII, after which the area was
incorporated into the Trade Fair grounds. In recent times,
however, steps have been taken to commemorate its
existence with a memorial plaque on ul. Głogowska
26a (E‑4), and in 2008 a ceremony took place to
commemorate Rabbi Akiva Eger - commonly accepted
as Poznań’s greatest Rabbi. Previously a parking lot, his
grave site has been turned into a grassy square named
in his honour. A memorial to the victims of Poznań’s
Nazi labour camp stands by the Multikino cinema
(G‑5, ul. Królowej Jadwigi 51), and prayer services take
place each Friday at ul. Stawna 10 (D‑1). Other efforts to
reintroduce Jewish culture to the city include the annual
Tzadik Poznań Festival (www.tzadikpoznanfestival.pl)
each September - a feast of music aimed at celebrating
the past, building bridges and opening dialogue between
THE JEWISH COMMUNITY
Founded in 1999, Poznań’s Jewish community
organises commemorative events and exhibitions
around the city. Contact them by email via poznan@
jewish.org.pl for more information, or to participate
in Friday prayer services.QD‑1, ul. Stawna 10, www.
March - June 2016
Under the temporary charge of Stanisław Taczak, the
Polish forces scored swift successes against a German
army shattered from four years of world war, liberating
neighbouring Kórnik and Mogilno, but counter attacks
suggested a stiffening German resolve. Fighting continued
and by January the situation was out of hand. To save the
region from total anarchy, the government in waiting
(christened NRL) took charge of all civil and military issues,
conscripting all Polish men born between 1897 and 1899
into military service. Taking their oaths of allegiance in what
is today Plac Wolności (B‑2), the Polish troops continued to
march into increasingly fierce battles with their German
Since 1795 - when it was carved between Imperial Russia,
Prussia and Habsburg Austria - Poland had been off the
map and effectively ceased to be a country. Poznań
enjoyed brief freedom when Napoleon’s conquering troops
liberated much of Poland during their march east in 1806,
however Napoleon’s military disaster on the plains of Russia
resulted in the 1815 Congress of Vienna, which saw Poznań
delivered back into Prussian hands where it would remain
for over a century.
With Europe reeling after World War I, Germany in collapse,
and Russia plunged into revolutionary chaos, Polish
patriotic fervour once more simmered to the surface. The
overwhelmingly Polish people of Poznań could sense
independence was near, but there remained one crucial
sticking point: German stubbornness to relinquish the
Wielkopolska region. Woodrow Wilson’s plans for an
independent Poland had failed to set any boundaries,
and though Warsaw was back in the hands of a Polish
government, Poznań was still answerable to Berlin. Ever
since the Kaiser’s abdication on November 9, 1918,
Poznań’s Poles had been plotting an uprising. Positions
in local government and industry were forcibly seized by
Poles and the countdown was on for outright war.
Following weeks of tension the fuse was finally lit on
December 27th. Historical accounts of how the Uprising
started vary; some sources claim it was the shooting
of Franciszek Ratajczak and Antoni Andrzejewski on
the steps of the police headquarters that started the
initial fighting, though most point to a stirring speech
given by the pianist and patriot Ignacy Jan Paderewski
on the balcony of what was then the Bazar Hotel
(Al. Marcinkowskiego 10, C‑2). While addressing the
Polish crowd assembled below a German counterdemonstration passed by - within moments shots had
been fired and the Uprising had begun. Historians
disagree on which side started the hostilities, but either
way there was no turning back the clock. Within hours
Polish forces had captured the Poznań train station and
post office, while other towns in the region joined them
66 Poznań In Your Pocket
Thankfully, peace was just around the corner, due in no
small part to French intervention. February 14, 1919 saw
the beginning of international peace talks, and within two
days the French delegation had persuaded the Germans
to sign an extension of the Allied-German armistice, this
time including the Wielkopolska front. Sporadic fighting
continued for the next few days, but to all intents and
purposes, Poznań, and with it Wielkopolska, were liberated.
WIELKOPOLSKA UPRISING MONUMENT
Sitting in the northwest
end of Drweckich Park,
the Wielkopolska Uprising
Monument was designed
by Alfred Wiśniewski and
unveiled on September
19, 1965. The monument
itself is a granite-covered 17
metre tall tower decorated
with reliefs that depict the
strike in Września, famed
Polish revolutionary Marcin
Kasprzak and the death of the first upriser Franciszek
Ratajczak. Standing proudly next to the monument are
statues of two uprisers: one is an officer with a sabre, the
other a private holding a gun.QF‑4, Corner of ul. Królowej
Jadwigi and ul. Wierzbięcice.
WIELKOPOLSKA UPRISING MUSEUM
Primarily chronicling the 1918-1919 Wielkopolska Uprising
(though the exhibition starts at the time of partition) this
museum occupies a rebuilt structure that once served
as home to the Royal Guard. The exhibition includes a
1908 Maxim heavy machine gun sitting behind a row of
sandbags, a copy of the uniform worn by the Uprising’s
commander-in-chief, as well as original state decorations
awarded to him. Other points of interest include a replica
banner flown on the night of the Uprising’s outbreak,
photos of troop formations and a series of postcards
issued to commemorate the event.QC‑2, Stary Rynek 3,
tel. (+48) 61 853 19 93, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.
poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 6/3zł. Sat free. YN
The Poznań Riots, or the ‘1956 Uprising’ (because PL loves
its Uprisings), was the first recognised strike and street
demonstration in Communist Poland. Although brutally
suppressed, this show of the people’s strength remains
an intense source of pride for the local community, and
though it would be another 33 years until the people of
Poland would enjoy complete freedom from the Kremlin,
the uprising led to a significant liberalisation of Soviet
policy in Poland, and would act as a prelude to the 1980
Lenin Shipyard Strikes in Gdańsk that saw the birth of the
The death of comrade Stalin in 1953 provoked a certain
degree of optimism among Poles, promising an end to the
social and political terror associated with the Soviet Union’s
hegemony of Central and Eastern Europe. Hopes were
short-lived, however, as Nikita Khruschev’s address to the
20th Convention of the USSR’s Communist Party in 1956
spoke of strengthening socialism’s grip on the East, and of
the dangers of individualism. Simmering with discontent
the Polish media helped stir local discord and on June 28th
strikes broke out in Poznań’s factories - first in the Stalin
brick factory (later the ‘Hipolita Cegielskiego Factory’),
before spreading to the city’s other major industrial
plants. An estimated 100,000 workers descended on the
Municipal National Council (now the Zamek building),
chanting slogans like ‘Bread and Freedom’ and ‘Out with
Bolshevism,’ while demanding lower prices, higher wages
and a reduction in work quotas.
Initially peaceful, the protests took a violent turn when it
was revealed that the team negotiating on behalf of the
strikers in Warsaw had been arrested and detained by
the authorities. Infuriated, the demonstrators stormed
Poznań prison, liberating 257 inmates, destroying
records and seizing armaments. Armed with assorted
small arms and petrol bombs, the insurgents marched
back to the city centre to continue their protests. With a
volatile atmosphere threatening to run out of control,
the communist authorities reacted by deploying 10,300
soldiers, 400 tanks and 30 armoured personnel carriers
to Poznań. Fierce street battles followed, but with the city
cut off from the outside world, order was quickly restored
by June 30th. The clashes officially left 76 civilians and
eight soldiers dead, with over 600 strikers injured (though
unofficial estimates were vastly higher). Victims included a
thirteen year old boy shot through the heart while waving
a Polish flag, and the news of the riots helped spark an
equally heroic anti-communist uprising in Budapest.
Although Poland was to suffer another three decades
of Communist control, the riots had a huge influence in
the shaping of post-war Poland. The Polish Communist
Party was left reeling from the chaos, and several
Stalinist hardliners found themselves dismissed in a bid
to appease the people, as limited social reforms and a
small-scale lifting of press censorship followed. A museum
commemorating the events of 1956 in the Zamek (ul. Św.
Marcin 80/82, A‑2) is worth visiting to really understand
the momentous events of the ‘Poznan June.’
1956 UPRISING MONUMENT
However impressive the nearby Adam Mickiewicz is, he
finds himself outshone by the soaring 1956 Uprising
Monument. Made of steel, the two crosses (21 and 19
metres for the number crunchers) were unveiled on June
28th, 1981, the 25th anniversary of the first rebellion
against Soviet control. A tablet commemorates a visit by
Pope John Paul II in 1997, while close by is an excellent
multi-lingual electronic information point filled with facts
about the rising.QA‑2, Pl. Mickiewicza.
1956 UPRISING MUSEUM
The Zamek is an impressive building alright, but pride of
place goes to the 1956 Uprising exhibition, honouring the
first armed resistance the communist regime faced. Hidden
down a side entrance this basement masterpiece features
stretchers used to carry the wounded, a tank, a display of
arms and rifles, a room of Socialist propaganda posters,
a typical Poznań family’s flat from the 1950s and a direct
copy of a detention cell. Most poignant of all, though, is
the space set aside for 13 year old Roman Strzałkowski,
the youngest to die in the troubles. Exhibits include his
harmonica and domino set, and newspaper clippings
showing Strzałkowski picking up prizes for his piano skills.
QA‑2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 852 94 64,
www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance
30 minutes before closing. Admission 6/3zł, Sat free.
March - June 2016
Gniezno Old Town and Cathedral | Photo by Radoslaw Maciejewski - Fotolia.com
While the people of Poznań are eager to claim their city
as Poland’s first capital, anyone with a passing knowledge
of Polish history will recognise this as a fib. That title
belongs to Gniezno, a picturesque town lying just 50km
east of Poz. In all of Poland nowhere is more synonymous
with the foundation of the Polish state than Gniezno.
Although the capital was eventually shifted to Kraków
and then Warsaw, Gniezno remained an important
centre of worship and is still regarded today as Poland’s
ecclesiastical capital. For the visitor it is an intriguing
town full of spires and cobbles - a superb medicine to the
frantic flap of urban Poland.
GETTING TO GNIEZNO
Nothing could be easier than getting to Gniezno from
Poznań. Trains run frequently throughout the day and
you’ve got two types to choose from: the TLK is direct with
prices starting at 15.30zł for the 26-minute journey, while
the REGIO costs 13.50zł and lurches to a stop at every
hamlet along the way, extending the travel time to about
45 minutes. Travellers using the TLK train should note that
Gniezno is the first stop on the route; don’t expect any
announcements alerting you to your arrival. The train
station is a simple affair featuring an ATM, newsagent,
and cafe, and it’s a 10min walk to the Rynek, with the
Cathedral lying just beyond - simply follow ul. Dworcowa
until you reach ul. Mieszka I, and then follow the latter to
its conclusion. Alternatively 10zł should be enough to get
you dropped off in the market square (Rynek) by a cab.
68 Poznań In Your Pocket
GNIEZNO ARCHDIOCESE MUSEUM
If your eyes are still hankering for the sight of more
treasure after a trip to the Cathedral, head here to view
a lavish collection of ecclesiastical riches: golden goblets,
embroidered vestments, state gifts received by cardinals,
oil paintings, coffin portraits and even a chalice purporting
to have once belonged to St. Adalbert are all presented
here. An absolute feast for the eyes that is sure to present
moral dilemmas for kleptomaniacs.Qul. Kolegiaty 2, tel.
(+48) 61 426 37 78, www.muzeumag.com. Open 09:00
- 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. From May open 09:00 - 17:00,
Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 6/4zł, from April 10/6zł.
MUSEUM OF THE ORIGINS
OF THE POLISH STATE
Housed in a functional concrete carbuncle, this modern
museum features numerous audio-visual presentations
designed to appeal to the constant school trips that file
through the doors, as well copies of archaeological relics
dating back to the founding of the Polish state - that means
lots of pots, vases, bowls, and daggers. Permanent and
temporary exhibits over three floors focus on the history
and culture of the Middle Ages, and the telling of the
beginnings of the Polish state in Gniezno and Wielkopolska
is aided by a 3D movie, which runs in several languages.
Qul. Kostrzewskiego 1, tel. (+48) 61 426 46 41, www.
mppp.pl. Open 09:00-17:00 (until 18:00 starting in
April). Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing.
Admission 10/7zł, family ticket 30zł, group ticket over 10
people 9/6zł per person, Sun free. U
Gniezno’s Cathedral is regarded as the spiritual home of
Poland’s former monarchy - it’s here Poland’s first five kings
were crowned. To truly enjoy it requires two visits; a guided
tour sees all manner of stories and legends revealed, while
a follow up solo tour allows you to really take stock of the
riches and relics before you.
Ask anyone and they’ll tell you the
principal highlight of the Cathedral is
the ‘Gniezno doors,’ a pair of winged
bronze doors from the 12th century
where you naturally begin your tour.
Featuring 18 panels, each masterfully
engraved with scenes from the life
of St. Adalbert, start from Adalbert’s
birth on the bottom left panel, and
then follow his story upwards and
around. Of note are an exorcism
illustrated on the sixth panel, and his
murder on the fourteenth. Yep, that’s
his head on a stick in the next. Regarded as one of the most
important pieces of Romanesque art in Poland, ironically
no one has a clue who created them, unlike the portal
that frames the door - look closely and you’ll notice the
signature scribble of the craftsmen on the left side. Worthy
of further investigation in its own right, the portal dates
from 1400 and features an engraving of Jesus sitting on a
rainbow (rainbows were believed to mark the entrance to
heaven) with two swords in his mouth - symbolic of the
power he wields in both heaven and earth.
Next up is a trip to the crypt - the highlights of which include
Poland’s oldest gravestone, the coffins of the country’s past
primates, and the pattern of the tiled floor (which you might
recognise from the 10zł note) - before onto the Cathedral
proper. Originally built between 1324 and 1370 the Cathedral
has been patched up and embellished over the course of
time, and nowadays it is the Baroque flourishes that steal
the show. It’s impossible to put a figure on the number of
must-see details, and it’s at this stage where having a guide
becomes invaluable. The 13 arcades around the presbytery
are symbolic of Jesus and the 12 apostles, and there’s a
heavy emphasis on allegorical symbolism. At the rear of the
Cathedral you can spot one of only two works by Wit Stwosz
found outside Kraków. In total the Cathedral is surrounded
by 13 side chapels holding a number of points of interest,
including a miracle working crucifix found in the Chapel of
Jesus. The cross has accompanied the Polish army into battle
since the 17th century when it was first seen to bleed.
The elaborate gold confession, situated at the top end of
the Cathedral, is stunning, and said to be modelled on
the Confession of St. Peter’s in Rome. Beneath it is the
silver sarcophagus of St. Adalbert, designed by Gdańsk
master craftsman Peter van Rennen. Considered the most
important relic in the country the silver coffin is balanced
on six eagles, and carried on the figures of a priest, peasant,
townsperson and knight.
Unfortunately visitors are denied the opportunity to view
the library. Treasures here include Poland’s oldest book
(dating from 880AD), a papal edict that features the first
recorded use of the Polish language, and numerous letters
penned by Poland’s former regents. Though frustrating, this
locked door policy is fully understandable. The Cathedral
has had misfortune served up in spades. Its significance
to the Polish state has not been lost on invaders and as
a result it’s been burned, looted, battered and destroyed
on numerous occasions. Napoleon’s troops turned it into
a stable, while the ‘liberating’ Red Army shelled it for no
The Nazis, meanwhile, replaced St. Adalbert’s portrait with
that of Hitler and planned to use the building as a concert
venue for high-ranking fascists. Legend goes, however,
that on opening night a bishop drifted unannounced
across the hall and disappeared into the crypt below.
Shots were fired at the unannounced gatecrasher, but
none hit their mark, spooking the Nazis enough to scrap
their plans and not set foot inside again. Unfortunately
this didn’t stop them from employing Volksdeutsch
workers and systematically stripping the building of its
valuables, melting the gold and shipping off countless
treasures to shady vaults. Only the confession and the
organ escaped them - the latter only to be blown to
smithereens by the Soviets in 1945. The bell tower shared
the same fate, which explains why you’ll see the original
bell lying outside the main entrance. Rebuilt (with no
bell) the bell tower is open in the summer season, and
its 231 steps lead to panoramic views across town.Qul.
Łaskiego 7, tel. (+48) 61 424 13 89, www.archikatedra.
com. Open 09:00-11:45, 13:00-16:00 (until 17:00
starting from May); closed Sun. Admission requires
4 tickets to see the Cathedral’s 4 highlights: Bell
Tower 3/2zł (open from May 1st), Cathedral 1.50/1zł,
Underground 2.50/2zł, Doors 2.50/2zł. To get the most
out of your visit we recommend you hire a guide; again
each section is separate: Cathedral 30zł, Underground
10zł, Doors 10zł (group price).
Photo by Marcin Chady, flickr.com, CC BY 2.0
March - June 2016
Kicking back amid greenery | Photo by K Pictures
Whether you’re looking to take a break from the bustle of
the Rynek or just want an excuse to stretch your legs, Poznań
offers a multitude of parks, green spaces and recreational
activities to consider. First and foremost are the 89-hectare
Citadel Park (see p.62) - full of leafy promenades, historical
monuments and museums, and Lake Malta (p.73) - one of
the most unique urban recreation areas on the continent.
As such, we’ve devoted a separate section of our Leisure
pages especially for all of the attractions and activities
around Lake Malta’s shores, including fantastic family
attractions like the New Zoo and the Termy Maltańskie
water park. Whatever you’re looking for, use the listings
below to stay active in every season.
Big news for all amateur aviation enthusiasts: Poland’s first
full flight simulator for the general public is here! This fully
functional 737NG airliner simulator has been painstakingly
modelled on the real thing, with not a single button out of
place, and it can be all in your hands for 10, 30, 60, or 90
minutes. And if you’re looking for something to really jazz
up a boring business meeting, an important birthday, or
your n-th wedding anniversary, this might just be your no. 1
bet!QG‑4, ul. Kwiatowa 2, tel. (+48) 518 39 54 84, www.
gearup.aero. Open 13:30 - 21:00, Sat 10:30 - 21:00, Sun
12:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
MAGNUM SHOOTING RANGE
Shooting club covering 50m2 with 15 shooting ranges
whose arsenal includes authentic Glocks and AK-47s. An
70 Poznań In Your Pocket
instructor is on hand to give free advice on how to handle
the various weapons.Qul. Witosa 45 (entrance from
ul. Dojazd 6), tel. (+48) 602 51 04 68, www.strzelnicamagnum.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. Gun rental 20zł/person. Ammunition
costs extra and varies by firearm.
PAINTBALL FORT DĘBIEC
Add authenticity to the paintball experience by taking aim
at your mates in Fort IXA - a 19th century military fort in
Dębiński Forest.Qul. 28 czerwca 1956 352 (Wilda), tel.
(+48) 511 20 58 55, www.poznan-paintball.pl. Open by
prior agreement. Prices are available via their website
and depend on the type of route and play selected.
BOWLING & BILLIARDS
At first glance, MK Bowling looks like a cross between an
American diner and a night club - mainly down to the red
booths, large bar and larger choice of drinks - including
the very American option of ordering beer by the pitcher.
It’s on the lanes (seven in total) where you’ll find the real
fun, however, and there are plenty of daily promotions,
including student discounts Mon-Thu until 17:00 (before
which bowling is only 40zł/hour). If you can beat our top
score of 268 then the next pitcher is on us.QB/C‑2, ul.
Święty Marcin 24 (Galeria MM), tel. (+48) 61 222 50 51,
www.mkbowling.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 03:00. Prices vary depending on day of the week and
hour of day: 12-18zł per person per game, or rent 1hr of
lane time for everyone for 69-99zł.
If you ever thought of dropping some acid with your young
children, here’s the legal way to do it. Put on a pair of 3D
glasses and immerse yourself in a hallucinatory, brighneon labyrinth of spastic trees, deranged mushrooms, and
dizzying miscellany while listening to a narration about
two Poznań legends. Do try to stay focused, as the staff
will quiz you at the end of each room - the punishment
for failing, presumably, is to leave you forever wandering
the LSD maze from hell. The whole experience lasts around
30 minutes, but you’re almost guaranteed to lose all sense
of space and time.QC‑1, ul. Wroniecka 6, tel. (+48) 61
307 04 46, blubry6d.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission
LET ME OUT
Think you can escape from an alien spaceship or Indiana
Jones-eque temple in 45 minutes using only your wits?
Escape games have gotten rather popular of late as a more
intellectual alternative to - say - bowling or billiards, so grab
a few friends, take deep breath, and put your collective
problem-solving skills to the test as the timer ticks down
to your demise. Let Me Out has been created in an
admirably-adapted apartment close to the Castle (entrance
is opposite to Bar Dragon), so while not 100% profesh, it
really is good fun.QC‑1, ul. Zamkowa 4/3, tel. (+48) 886
33 09 60, www.letmeout.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00. 99zł per
group of 2-4 people for a 45-minute session.
THE OLD ZOO
Poland’s oldest zoo dates to 1874 and still has some
picturesque old pavilions, but most of the critters have
been carted off to the New Zoo on the other side of the
city, and the Old Zoo has largely been reshaped as a public
park. There is, however, a modern Reptile House here,
where you can watch Komodo dragons strutting their
stuff, pythons slithering, and caimans splashing around. It’s
worth the admission price, and enjoyable to visit without
the exhaustion and crowds of the New Zoo.QE‑3, ul.
Zwierzyniecka 19, tel. (+48) 61 848 08 47, www.zoo.
poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00 (until 19:00 from April
1st). Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission free;
8/6zł for the Reptile House. YU
SPA & BEAUTY
You’ll find pretty much all you could ever need for some
serious ‘R&R’ (that’s rest and relaxation) in this 500m2 beauty
salon and wellness club on the 2nd floor of the Andersia
Hotel. Includes a swimming pool with hydro-massage,
jacuzzi, Finnish and steam sauna, gym, aerobics room,
solarium, bar, and more.QG‑4, Pl. Andersa 3 (IBB Andersia
Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 667 83 00, www.spaharmonia.pl.
Wellness section open 06:30 - 22:30; Sat, Sun 08:00 22:30 (sauna, solarium, gym, jacuzzi). Spa open daily
10:00 - 22:30 (body treatments). Y
March - June 2016
See ‘Poznań in 24 Hours / 3 Days’ feature, p.8.QK‑4,
ul. Termalna 1, tel. (+48) 61 222 61 61, www.
termymaltanskie.com.pl. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 21:00. Prices start at 9zł for sports pools and
water spark, 20zł for spa. Y
REGATTA WELLNESS & SPA
Found inside the brand new Regatta Hotel complex, the
Wellness & Spa centre offers something for everyone and
reinforces the old adage that “size is not important.” Yep,
it’s small and cosy, but the pool and jacuzzi look as inviting
as you could wish for and the separate beauty parlour,
massage and gym rooms are ultra-modern and relaxing.
Hotel clients get access to the gym, jacuzzi, sauna and pool
for free but the competitive prices make this the perfect
little retreat for an afternoon of indulgence and luxury.Qul.
Chojnicka 49 (Regatta Hotel, Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 502 78
78 81, www.regattahotel.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 22:00.
Experience everything from a traditional Thai foot massage
to a full body massage at Thai-Land, which features
monthly promotions and passes that give customers a
welcome discount.QC‑3, ul. Długa 14, tel. (+48) 510 40
45 04, www.thai-land.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00.
THAI SMILE MASSAGE
Anyone looking to escape the raucous buzz of Poz’s
city centre could do a lot worse than relaxing with a
fine massage. A peaceful, modern environment (with
English speaking staff ) only five minutes from the market
square, Thai Smile Massage is an ideal place to forget
about the day’s woes while you let one of the authentic
Thai massage therapists work their wonders. Two rooms
to choose from (massage room and the oil room) and a
cup of tea afterwards is enough for the IYP staff to give
this place the thumbs up.QB‑3, ul. Ogrodowa 17/4, tel.
(+48) 727 90 52 96, www.thai-smile.pl. Open 12:00 22:00.
Two Poznan legends told
in an unusual way
(100m from Main Square)
Phone: +48 61 307 04 46
Mobile phone: +48 737 796 440
72 Poznań In Your Pocket
After a strenuous day of shopping and sightseeing, what
better way to relax those weary muscles and kick back
than a nice massage? With soft music and wonderful staff
who know just what you want without even asking, Thai
Spa caters for all needs and is the perfect antidote to the
hustle and bustle of the busy centre. It’s easy enough to
get to (just hop on the number 15 or 16 tram to ‘Lechicka/
Poznań Plaza’), but make sure you check the timetable
back as you might end up staying longer than you
planned.Qul. Drużbickiego 11 (Piątkowo), tel. (+48)
61 840 76 66, www.thaispa.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00.
Photo courtesy of POSiR
Of Poznań’s many lakes it’s Malta - to the east - that is the
best known, and its surroundings are well worth further
investigation. Formed in 1952 as a result of damming the
Cybina, this 2.2km long lake is the largest man-made lake in
the city, with an average depth of 3.1 metres. Surrounded by
parks and woodland, it is today one of the principal recreation
areas in the region - in both summer and winter - with an icerink, ski slope (the first in former communist Europe), a worldclass regatta course, zoo, water park, and dozens of other
attractions, including several historical sights. Just east of the
centre, but miles from the madness of the market square, if
you’re in town to decompress, head to Malta.
WHAT TO SEE & DO
ADRENALINE ALPINE COASTER
A 500 metre long roller coaster filled with twisting loops
(even a 360 degree twist) that hauls screaming visitors
around the track at 40km per hour.QK‑4, ul. Wiankowa
2, tel. (+48) 533 31 50 55, www.maltaski.pl. Opening
hours depend on the weather. 1 ride in a 1-person cart
7zł; 3rides 15zł. 1 ride in a 2-person cart 12zł; 3 rides 25zł.
If there’s one highlight on the local cultural calendar it has
to be the Malta Festival, staged each summer since 1991.
Including alternative theatre, concerts, film screenings,
workshops, exhibitions, and more, it all takes place this
year from June 17th - 28th. See page 20 for more.Qwww.
MALTANKA MINI RAILWAY
Pleasing the paying public since 1956, this is one of the
last 600mm narrow gauge railways in PL, faithfully pulled
by ‘Borsuk’ (Badger) - a steam engine with two whistles.
Operating from April 16th to the end of September, it’s
a unique attraction for rail buffs, and also a great way to
view Malta. Better still, this is one of the most practical
ways to get to the ‘New Zoo’ - catch it from the Maltanka
stop near Rondo Śródka (J-3) and ride it to the end, namely
the Zwierzyniec stop at the zoo. Trains run on the hour
Mon-Fri 10:00 - 18:45; weekends on the half hour 10:00 18:00; tickets 6/4zł.Qtel. (+48) 61 839 66 90, www.mpk.
Located on the east end of Lake Malta, this adventure park
features 4 ropes courses (3 for adults, one for kids over 3
years old) and two Tyrolkas - sweet 65m zip lines. If you need
a rest afterwards, there are two designated picnic areas
with bonfire and BBQ options.Qul. Abpa A. Baraniaka/
Chartowo, tel. (+48) 660 04 89 01, www.pyrlandpark.pl.
Open every day 10:00 - 18:30, though bear in mind that
this is a weather-dependent attraction. Rope courses
20-35zł each, or 30-60zł for both; kids 15zł; familly ticket
(2 adults plus 1 kid) 70-80zł. Tyrolka 15zł (10zł with ropes
course receipt). Y
THE NEW ZOO
The 116 hectare New Zoo was opened to the public in
1974 after seven years of construction. Housing over
2,000 beasts representing 140 species, it’s comprised of 60
percent pine and mixed forests with a man-made stream
and string of ponds running through the grounds. In this
way many of the creatures live in recreations of their natural
habitats rather than concrete pens. Highlights include the
modern elephant house, and circling the whole shebang is
a year-round mini-railway, meaning visitors can jump off at
whatever creature cage takes their fancy.
Located beyond the far east end of Lake Malta (not
actually on the lake), during the summer you can get
there by taking the Maltanka mini-railway to the last stop
‘Zwierzyniec’. If coming from the centre of Poz, take tram
8 from ‘Plac Wielkopolski’ to ‘Krańcowa’. Alternatively, a taxi
from the centre costs about 30zł.Qul. Krańcowa 81 (Nowe
Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 877 35 17, www.zoo.poznan.
pl. Open 09:00-16:00 (until 18:00 from April 1st). Last
entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 15/8zł, family
ticket 35zł; weekend admission 20/10zł, family ticket
GETTING TO LAKE MALTA
Lake Malta is situated just to the east of the city centre,
and Rondo Śródka (J-3), at the lake’s northwest corner,
is the best place to access it. Below are the public
transport options from three main points in the centre.
Alternatively, a taxi from the centre to the north shore
will cost about 30-35zł.
From the train station (E-4): Take tram 6 from the
‘Most Dworcowy’ stop directly to ‘Rondo Śródka.’ The
journey takes about 20 minutes.
From ul. Podgórna (C-3): There is no directly tram
connecting Podgórna with Rondo Śródka. You should
take trams 5 or 16 from the ‘Wrocławska’ stop and get
off at the ‘Kórnicka’ stop. Then take tram 6 to the ‘Rondo
From ul. Małe Garbary (D-1): Take tram 17 from the
‘Małe Garbary’ stop and get off at ‘Rondo Śródka.’
March - June 2016
The chic interior of Projekt Iwona Rychlewicz (p. 76)
TAX FREE SHOPPING
Non-EU residents are entitled to claim a
VAT refund when the purchased goods
are exported in an unused condition
outside the EU in personal luggage.
Shop wherever you see the Global Blue
logo. The minimum total purchase value
with VAT per Tax Free Form is 200pln. Keep the Tax Free
Form, have it stamped when leaving
the final point of departure from the
EU and reclaim your money. For full
details check www.globalblue.com.
The Global Blue Card
Your Passport to Great Savings,
The World Over (more information at gb’s website)
1. You are a non-EU traveler
2. In the shop you spent a minimum of 200 PLN
3. You export the purchased goods
outside of the EU
YOU CAN USE THE TAX FREE
74 Poznań In Your Pocket
Yes, that’s a Burberry store you see in Poznań. And
Armani. Even Versace. You can wander through the
vast, award-winning Stary Browar mall or the new
Poznań City Centre spending złoty until you’ve solved
the European debt crisis, but if you’re bringing gifts
back to show your loved ones what a trip to Poznań is
like, a Burberry bag made in London won’t cut it. That’s
why throughout this section we’ve made an effort to
list establishments selling gifts that actually say, “I went
You may have noticed that here in PL, it’s a bit of a
drinking culture; more of a national pastime, really,
compared to the country’s success at football. Indeed,
nothing says ‘I’ve been to Poland’ like a suitcase of vodka
(a new bride being the second hottest commodity).
The Poles have been distilling and draining vodka
since the early Middle Ages, and Poland can make a
legitimate claim as the spirit’s primordial homeland. As
such, you should put it at the top of your souvenir list,
even if it’s not to your taste. Belvedere and Chopin
are the elite brands you’ll find in fancy gift sets, but
don’t miss Żubrówka (bison grass vodka), Krupnik
(herbal honey vodka) and Żołądkowa Gorzka (herbal
stomach liqueur). Alcohol shops are more ubiquitous
than churches and cabbage in this country, so you
should have no trouble stocking up at any time of
A shop for serious beer lovers, Basilium stocks around 150
different types of the stuff, giving you a good chance to
take home a few quality local flavours with a bit more
character than the mass-produced brews found stocked in
supermarkets and local chain stores. The friendly staff are
more than happy to go through the choices with anyone
looking for advice before making their purchase.QD‑2, ul.
Woźna 21, tel. (+48) 790 33 37 56. Open 14:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00.
AMBER & JEWELLERY
Vodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in Poland; the
country is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who
handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and
coveted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without
bringing baby some Baltic Gold and you’ve booked yourself
a stint in the doghouse.
YES jewellery stores can be found throughout Poland,
but this location on ul. Paderewskiego sets itself apart by
being an exclusive gallery, curated by YES founder Magda
Kwiatkiewicz herself, showcasing the highest achievements
in artistic jewellery by Polish designers. As such, it has
played a significant role in the shape and direction of the
Polish jewellery market for over a decade, and in addition
to their lovely commercial display cases, the exhibits held
here are always worth a peek.QC‑2, ul. Paderewskiego 7,
tel. (+48) 61 851 58 48, www.galeriayes.pl. Open 11:00 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Major amber retailer and wholesaler with over 20 years of
experience to their name.QC‑3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary
Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 66 88, www.
desta-amber.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Poland’s oldest and most revered chain of jewellery stores
caters to men and women with tastes that range from
classic amber pendants and Tag Heuer watches to modern
designs of their own making. Also at ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary
Browar, G-4) and ul. Maltańska 1 (Galeria Malta, J-4).QC‑2,
ul. Paderewskiego 2, tel. (+48) 661 98 05 61, www.wkruk.
pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
ART & ANTIQUES
The historic centre is filled to bursting with dusty little
stores selling antiques (look for signs saying ‘Antyki’ or
‘Antykwariat’). A quick exploration of the side streets
will reveal everything from WWII memorabilia to 19th
century coins and navigational charts. Do remember
when purchasing that permission will be required if you’re
planning on taking anything pre-1945 out of the country for the most part such a certificate will be provided by the
shop, though do check beforehand.
Poznań’s open-air markets are the best places to get
cheap local produce and some of the only places in the
centre where you can buy vegetables that aren’t white
or in jars. Add to that meats, cheeses, spices, baked
goods, doorknobs, dog leashes, pagers, potholders
and literally anything else you can think of and you’ve
got yourself a nifty cultural experience as well. Practise
your “Proszę” and point skills at any of the unique
shopping environments listed below, and remember
that haggling and attempting to pay with large bills
will both be met with disdain.
One of Poznań’s most historic and centrally located
markets is just west of the Old Town on historic Rynek
Jeżycki. Established in 1891, this was once one of the
city’s finest market squares, as evidenced by the faded
glory of some of the intricate Art Nouveau facades on
the tenement buildings that surround it. Lately the
area has been going through a bit of a resurgence, and
though the market itself may be a bit tatty and you can
hardly expect English to be spoken or understood, the
400 merchant stalls here are still a good place to pick
up fresh fruit and vegetables, as well as peruse clothing
and other random goods you might be wiser not to
take home. You certainly won’t beat the prices.QE‑3,
Rynek Jeżycki, www.targowiska.com.pl. Open 06:00
- 18:00. Closed Sun.
With Poznań’s historic main market square apparently
not big enough, fruit and veg merchants have been
relegated to this 1600 square metre plaza only a few
minutes walk away. Renovated and generally more
orderly than some of Poz’s other open-air markets,
this is the best place for fresh produce in the Old
Town. Among its 200 tent-covered stalls you’ll also
find copious amounts of meat, cheese, nuts, and
other food products, fresh-cut flowers, pots and pans,
socks and sweatpants, sweets, screws, staplers, toilet
scrubbers, and whatever else you can imagine.QC‑1,
Pl. Wielkopolski, www.targowiska.com.pl. Open
06:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
March - June 2016
Specialises in old toys, technological relics, pre-war postcards and
other special keepsakes.QD‑2, ul. Klasztorna 1, tel. (+48) 61
851 75 13. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Solid collection of antiques collected by Piotr Sobisiak. On
offer is furniture, porcelain, silver cutlery, pitchers, jewellery
and other pre-war treasures.QB‑2, ul. Kantaka 10, tel.
(+48) 61 851 88 10, www.gem-art.pl. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
A vintage bookseller that rewards those who are patient
enough to dig through boxes of old postcards, prints, and
telegrams. It’s easy to lose track of time while meandering
along the well-stocked shelves.QC‑2, ul. Paderewskiego
3/5, tel. (+48) 61 852 63 12, www.antykwariat.pl. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
BOOKS, MUSIC & FILM
This large store is a one stop shop for foreign press and
magazines (prices are gougey though), guidebooks, there’s
a somewhat decent English-language book selection, CDs,
DVD, video games and more. Find them in almost any Polish
shopping mall. Also in Galeria Malta (J-4).QC‑3, ul. Półwiejska
42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 667 12 00,
www.empik.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Worth seeking out, this is Poznań’s best music store - full of
thousands of new and used vinyl records and CDs covering all
genres, but also with an emphasis on more contemporary DJfavoured sounds like techno, house, electronica, drum’n’bass,
breakbeat, etc. Inside you’ll also find plenty of DJ and home
stereo equipment, accessories for taking care of records, music
merch and other gear that make the crew behind Vinylgate
the leading ambassadors for the city’s vinyl revival.QB‑2, ul.
Garncarska 3, tel. (+48) 501 72 77 97, www.vinylgate.eu.
Open 13:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
FASHION & ACCESSORIES
Irresistably hip, ForForm specializes in the best of European
and Polish design (furniture, prints, and assorted home
goods) from the second half of the 20th century.QC‑2, ul.
Paderewskiego 8, tel. (+48) 61 883 42 43, www.forform.
pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Combining creativity and functionality since 1949, this
Milanese design company known for colorful plastic
creations has spawned flagstores all over Europe, including
our charming little city.QC‑2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 21,
tel. (+48) 61 816 27 14, www.kartellshop.pl. Open 10:00
- 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
76 Poznań In Your Pocket
POZNANSKI, AL. MARCINKOWSKIEGO 10
+48 61 855 19 54
Located in the gorgeously
renovated Bazar Hotel
(right next to Burberry), this luxury fashion boutique
features women’s clothing, shoes and accessories
from top designer brands like Casadei, Christian
Louboutin, Gianvito Rossi, Kenzo, Kotur, Moncler, One
Teaspoon, Jimmy Choo, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s,
Tory Burch, Valentino, and Victoria Beckham. Shop
online to find even more swag and savings.QC‑2, Al.
Marcinkowskiego 10, tel. (+48) 61 855 19 54, www.
Moliera2.com. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00,
Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
PROJEKT IWONA RYCHLEWICZ
Discover high-quality fashion by assorted Polish designers
in this small, industrial-style boutique. True to slow living
principles, none of the furnishings in the shop came
from retail chains (be it the checkout counter, radiator, or
lamps), and many items are for sale - just ask.QE‑2, ul. R.
Strzałkowskiego 11/2a, tel. (+48) 512 08 02 60. Open
12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
FOOD & SWEETS
SŁODKIE CZARY MARY
A charming and colourful sweets shop where young
ladies roll out the delicious goodies that cover the
shelves, while children and their parents watch in
wonder. Choose from a range of reasonably-priced
lollipops and hard candies that come in dozens of flavours
from rhubarb to whiskey-cola. A unique experience for
kids, candy-making demonstrations take place regularly
throughout the day.QH‑3, ul. Wrocławska 12, tel.
(+48) 511 59 29 19, www.slodkieczarymarypoznan.
pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
GIFTS & SOUVENIRS
Polish glass and amber are highly thought of, though if you
want something clutz-proof then Polish linen, lace, and
woodwork all look lovely on someone else’s mantle. Folk art
is an easily recognisable symbol of Poland, as is a magnet of
the country’s favorite hero Pope John Paul II.
A leading chain of souvenir shops selling native arts and
handicrafts.QD‑2, ul. Klasztorna 21, tel. (+48) 61 852
58 14, www.cepelia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 14:00. Closed Sun.
BAZAR POZNANSKI, AL. MARCINKOWSKIEGO 10
+48 61 855 19 54
GET THE APP
If you aren’t familiar with Poland’s beloved brand of folk
pottery, make sure you fix that before leaving town.
Crammed full of colourful tableware with simple, handpainted and highly-recognisable folk motifs, this shop is
sure to help you make someone on your list happy.QB‑2,
ul. Mielżyńskiego 16, tel. (+48) 61 853 47 98, www.
ceramicboleslawiec.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat
09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
A wide selection of souvenirs connected with Poznań
including lots of stuff with the most popular symbols
of Poznań. Pick up t-shirts, cups, ornaments, post cards,
and the like all associated with the head-banging goats
for instance. You’ll also find the most popular selection of
books and albums relating to Poznań, Wielkopolska and
Poland in foreign languages as well as locally produced art.
A smaller selection of the above is also available at Stary
Rynek 59/60 (C-2) and at the airport.QB‑2, ul. Ratajczaka
44, tel. (+48) 61 854 07 54, www.cim.poznan.pl. Open
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Y
POZNAN CITY CENTER
Shopping ‘centres’ simply don’t get any more ‘central’
than this modern marvel located right next to Poznań’s
impressive new train station; as such, it couldn’t
possibly be better connected to public transport or
easier to get to and from. Featuring over 200 retail
spaces, including Saturn, H&M, TK Maxx, Empik, and
Toys R Us, Poznań City Centre also offers plenty of cafes,
restaurants and fast food eateries, as well as a multilevel parking garage. Opened as recently as October
2013, if nothing else this mega-complex is worth
checking out just to appreciate how much Poznań has
developed and progressed over the last several years.
QE‑4, ul. Stanisława Matyi 2, tel. (+48) 61 627 01 90,
www.poznancitycenter.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
09:00 - 20:00.
This outlet centre, one of just a few establishments of this
type in Europe, is preoccupied with fashion, offering top
brand names at 30-70% discounts over other shopping
malls. Recognisable names among the brands include
Puma, Calzedonia, Desigual, Gino Rossi, Mango, and more.
To get here, take tram 9, 10, or 27 from “Most Teatralny” (E-4)
to “Dębiec” and change to bus 610, getting off at “Luboń /
Factory Outlet”.Qul. Dębiecka 1, Luboń, tel. (+48) 61 652
30 30, www.factory.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.
The largest retail and entertainment centre in western
Poland with over 162,000 square metres of shopping
and leisure opportunities. Opened in March 2009, Malta
features a Multikino as well as a Marks & Spencer, H&M, TK
Maxx, Benneton, Tatuum, Pull & Bear, and Empik. Dining
opportunities include Salad&Co and Costa Coffee. Trams 5,
16, and 17 all stop nearby (at either “Kórnicka” or “Baraniaka”).
QJ‑4, ul. Maltańska 1, tel. (+48) 61 658 10 22, www.
galeriamalta.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
A shopping mall right in city center for all your shopping
needs, be it clothes, a tall caramel frappuccino, make-up, or
the sudden urge to go bowling. The location just can’t be
beat - a five minute walk away from the Main Square, the
Galeria MM is named after the two streets that intersect at
its address, ul. Święty Marcin and Aleje Marcinkowskiego.
Behind the eye-popping love-it-or-hate-it facade you’ll
find around fifty popular stores.QB‑2, ul. Św. Marcin 24,
tel. (+48) 61 855 22 94, www.galeriamm.poznan.pl.
Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.
Housed in an old brewery dating from 1844, the awardwinning Stary Browar complex has been dubbed an art, leisure,
and shopping extravaganza, and its success a sign of Poznań’s
economic renaissance. Its opening in 2003 also marked a
successful move away from out-of-town developments, and a
new trend for inner-city regeneration projects. Originally home
to the Huggerów Brewery, the building produced beer until
1980, then mineral water until 1998, when it was bought by the
Fortis Group and a $66 million USD investment transformed it
into the shopping and entertainment Mecca it is today. Home
to tonnes of art and outstanding design details, Stary Browar
also features a 5-Star hotel, dozens of restaurants, cafes, and
bars, and over 200 retail spaces, in which you’ll find both name
brands and popular chain stores.QG‑4, ul. Półwiejska 32,
tel. (+48) 61 859 60 50, www.starybrowar5050.com. Open
09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Full contents online:
78 Poznań In Your Pocket
Our services directory lists everything possible that we
think could be of use and which doesn’t fit nicely elsewhere.
Use the listings here when things go wrong and you need
to find a doctor or embassy, or when you’ve become so
smitten with Poz that you’ve decided to relocate here
permanently. Whether a traveller or expat, we hope you’ll
find these listings helpful.
APTEKA CENTRALNA DOZ
QC‑1, ul. 23 lutego 18, tel. (+48) 61 852 26 25.
LOTOSQJ‑3, ul. Jana Pawła II 2, tel. (+48) 519 07 56 26.
QB‑1, ul. Karola Libelta 6.
CONSULATES & EMBASSIES
In Poznań, unfortunately, unless you are Russian or
American, your nearest embassy is likely in the capital,
Warsaw, some 310km away.
CZECH REPUBLICQul. Koszykowa 18, Warsaw, tel.
(+48) 22 525 18 50, www.mzv.cz/warsaw.
DENMARKQul. Marszałkowska 142, Warsaw, tel. (+48)
22 565 29 00, www.polen.um.dk.
GREAT BRITAINQul. Kawalerii 12, Warsaw, tel. (+48)
22 311 00 00, www.ukinpoland.fco.gov.uk.
IRELANDQul. Mysia 5, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 849 66
NETHERLANDSQul. Kawalerii 10, Warsaw, tel. (+48)
22 559 12 00, www.nlembassy.pl.
RUSSIAQE‑3, ul. Bukowska 53a, tel. (+48) 61 841 77
SLOVAKIAQul. Litewska 6, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 525
81 10, www.mzv.sk/varsava.
TURKEYQul. Malczewskiego 32, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22
854 61 10, www.warsaw.emb.mfa.gov.tr.
USAQC‑2, ul. Paderewskiego 8, tel. (+48) 61 851 85 16,
Currency exchange offices (‘Kantor’) are easy to find
in Poznań, but as with any international destination, it’s
imperative to check the rates to ensure you aren’t getting
fleeced. The general rule is you should never change
your money at city entry points, particularly at the airport
where the rates are almost criminal. To help put your
mind and your wallet at ease, we’ve vetted them for you
and assembled a list of well-located exchange offices
that won’t rip you off or take a commission.
QE‑4, ul. Głogowska 79, tel. (+48) 61 866 01 19,
www.kantorcorner.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00
- 14:00. Closed Sun.
QC‑3, Pl. Wiosny Ludów 2 (Kupiec Poznański), tel.
(+48) 61 850 89 51, www.kantor-gold.pl. Open 09:00
- 20:30, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
QG‑4, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61
859 64 66, www.kantorprzemeks.pl. Open 09:00 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
QF‑4, Poznań City Center (Main Train Station), ul.
Stanisława Matyi 2, tel. (+48) 667 31 31 31, www.
kantorprzemeks.pl. Open 09:30 - 21:00.
80 Poznań In Your Pocket
HCP - CENTRUM MEDYCZNEQul. 28 Czerwca 1956
r. 194 (Wilda), tel. (+48) 61 22 74 181, www.centrummedyczne-hcp.pl.
SZPITAL MIEJSKI IM. JÓZEFA STRUSIA
Qul. Szwajcarska 3 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 873 93
BERLITZQF‑3, ul. Mielżyńskiego 14A, tel. (+48) 61 222
20 22, www.berlitz.pl.
EMPIKQB‑1, ul. 27 Grudnia 17/19 (2nd floor), tel.
(+48) 61 851 00 62, www.empikschool.com.
POCZTA POLSKAQE‑4, ul. Głogowska 17, tel. (+48)
61 869 72 67, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 24hrs.
POCZTA POLSKAQD‑2, ul. Wodna 17/19, tel. (+48)
61 886 55 19, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 08:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
POCZTA POLSKAQA‑2, ul. Kościuszki 77, tel. (+48)
61 869 74 08, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 07:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
KLINIKA GRUNWALDZKAQE‑4, ul. Grunwaldzka 324,
tel. (+48) 61 867 99 01, www.klinikagrunwaldzka.pl.
LUXMEDQE‑3, ul. Roosevelta 18, tel. (+48) 22 33 22
GLOBAL INVESTQA‑2, ul. Fredry 1 (1st floor), tel.
(+48) 602 21 55 09, www.globalinvest.com.pl.
Polish services translated to English at 10:00 every Sunday.
QOs. Bolesława Chrobrego 117 (Stare Miasto), tel. (+48)
514 919 664, www.k5n.pl.
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MUSLIM CULTURE & RECREATION CENTRE
Services take place Fridays at 13:30.Qul. Biedrzyckiego 13
(Wilda), tel. (+48) 61 864 10 48.
POZNAŃ INTERNATIONAL CHURCH
Poznan International Church is a non-denominational
Christian church that meets every Sunday morning at 10:30
on the 1st floor of the Sheraton Hotel. Includes the Word of
God Sunday school for children (and wonderful childcare for
smaller children) as well as coffee and tea after the service.
QE‑3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznań Hotel), tel. (+48)
791 99 04 94, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.international.
pl. English-speaking service at 10:30 every Sunday.
GOSSELIN MOBILITY WARSAW
Qul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna-Piaseczno, tel. (+48) 22 737
72 00, www.corstjens.com.
UNIVERSAL EXPRESS WORLDWIDE MOVERS
Qul. Jasielska 8C, tel. (+48) 61 665 01 61, www.uer.pl.
BIURO TŁUMACZEŃ DELTA
Qul. Starowiejska 1a/5 (Stare Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 828
80 81, www.btd.pl.
Qul. Szeherezady 47 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 868 44
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
Great guides written
by locally-based travel
writers to help you get
the most out of your visit.
March - June 2016
Hotel Moderno, p.83
Visitors to Poznań will be pleasantly surprised to find that the
city is home to some of the most impressive hotel properties
in the country. While Poznań’s role as Poland’s epicentre
for conferences and fairs has clearly benefited those who
like plush accommodations and modern conveniences to
come standard, on the flip side those major conferences
can cause prices to shoot up when space is in demand
(rates tend to double during the annual MTP, Polagra,
Budma and Infosystem fairs). Fortunately most hotels
compensate by offering impressive weekend discounts to
encourage travellers to stick around and explore the city.
With the increasing irrelevance of official rack rates these
days due to these special offers, online booking discounts
and other price variations, we no longer find it particularly
instructive to list room prices in our guide, as we once did.
Accommodation is categorised here subjectively based on a
combination of lodging type, location, price and amenities.
The venues listed here also serve as distribution points
for our print guide, which can be picked up for free at the
reception desks of the addresses listed.
On our website you’ll also find full reviews, plus photos and
reader comments, on all of the hostels and hotels listed in our
print guide, plus dozens of other accommodation options in
the region; unfortunately, space constraints no longer allow
us to print these reviews. Accommodation is categorised here
subjectively based on a combination of lodging type, location,
price and amenities. The venues listed here also serve as
distribution points for our print guide, which can be picked up
for free at the reception desks of the addresses listed. Sleep well.
82 Poznań In Your Pocket
CREAM OF THE CROP
BLOW UP HALL 5050
QG‑4, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 61 657 99 80, www.
blowuphall5050.com. 22 rooms (22 singles, 18 doubles).
CITY PARK HOTEL & RESIDENCE
QE‑4, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26a, tel. (+48) 61 221 84
00, www.cityparkhotel.pl. 88 rooms (88 apartments).
IBB ANDERSIA HOTEL
QG‑4, Pl. Andersa 3, tel. (+48) 61 667 80 00, www.
andersiahotel.pl. 171 rooms (144 singles, 144 doubles,
QA‑2, ul. Św. Marcin 67, tel. (+48) 61 624 88 00, www.
nh-hotels.com. 93 rooms (93 singles, 93 doubles).
SHERATON POZNAN HOTEL
QE‑3, ul. Bukowska 3/9, tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00,
www.sheraton.pl/poznan. 180 rooms (167 singles,
167 doubles, 13 apartments). PTH
P Air conditioning H Conference facilities
U Facilities for the disabled
F Fitness centre
L Guarded parking on site
X Smoking rooms available
6 Animal friendly
C Swimming pool
QC‑2, Stary Rynek 73-74, tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.
brovaria.pl. 21 rooms (3 singles, 17 doubles, 1 studio).
QC‑2, ul. Św. Marcin 2, tel. (+48) 61 859 05 90, www.
donprestige.com. 73 rooms (52 singles, 47 doubles,
20 suites). PH6FL
QD‑2, Pl. Kolegiacki 5, tel. (+48) 61 855 05 05, www.
hotelkolegiacki.pl. 24 rooms (24 singles, 21 doubles).
QE‑5, ul. Kolejowa 29, tel. (+48) 61 664 66 66, www.
hotelmoderno.pl. 88 rooms (84 doubles, 3 suites,
1 apartment). PHK hhhh
Qul. Chojnicka 49 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 502 78 78 10,
www.regattahotel.pl. 23 rooms (22 singles, 22 doubles,
22 triples, 1 apartment). HUFKDCw hhhh
Traditional Thai Massage
Open 7 days a week
HOTEL SOLEI GOLF
Qul. Wałecka 2 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 847 58 38,
www.hotel-solei.pl. 23 rooms (6 singles, 16 doubles,
1 apartment). H6K hhhh
QK‑4, ul. Baraniaka 77, tel. (+48) 61 874 11 00, www.
hotelepark.pl. 97 rooms (95 singles, 95 doubles, 1 suite,
1 apartment). PYH6UK hhh
Qul. Bułgarska 115 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 868 78
31, www.hotelmats.pl. 35 rooms (3 singles, 21 doubles,
9 suites, 2 apartments). H6UKD
Reservation: ul. Długa14/2a
+48 510 404 504
March - June 2016
MERCURE POZNAŃ CENTRUM
QE‑3, ul. Roosevelta 20, tel. (+48) 61 855 80 00, www.
mercure-poznan-centrum.com. 228 rooms (227 singles,
187 doubles, 1 apartment). PYH
NOVOTEL POZNAŃ CENTRUM
QG‑4, Pl. Andersa 1, tel. (+48) 61 858 70 00, www.
accorhotels.com. 480 rooms (160 singles, 310 doubles,
10 apartments). PYH6UFLK hhhh
© Wikipedia/User: FxJ/CC BY-SA 3.0
No, it’s not an equestrian sport involving bell-bottomed
jockeys (good guess, though), Disco Polo is a rather
peculiar and uniquely Polish sub-genre of dance music.
In fact you may have already been exposed to it without
even realising it. It could have been blaring from a
suped-up Fiat Duze rolling by, pulsing from a radio in
a Żabka convenience store or been the soundtrack to
that local wedding you attended a few months back.
This cult genre first emerged in the early 90’s as folk
musicians and wedding bands finally were able to
upgrade their antiquated audio gear and buy some shiny
new keyboards with built in drum machines (and 70’s
disco presets). By mixing a little Italo Disco (read: Eurotrash
Techno) into their Casiotone folk-anthems, a music
revolution was born. Disco Polo quickly conquered every
wedding hall, village disco and nightclub throughout
the land. By 1995 there were Disco Polo programmes
on every major radio and television station and even
former Polish President Aleksander Kwasniewski used a
Disco Polo song during his presidential campaign that
year. Times were good and Disco Polo labels like Blue
Star and ‘bands’ such as Bayer Full, Boys and Shazza were
pumping out the hits and rolling in the zlotties. But alas,
the good times couldn’t last forever.
Disco Polo was scoffed at from the very beginning by
the likes of intellectuals, music critics and professional
musicians who viewed it as hokey and primitive (which
it was/is). The tide began to turn for the genre as a whole
when a few scandals involving disco polo artists and local
mafia bosses started to make headlines in ‘96 and ‘97.
These scandals coincided with a huge drop in cassette
and CD sales. By the late 90’s the wedding party was
officially over and the long national hangover had begun.
Public opinion and the mainstream media quickly turned
and openly derided and lampooned the jovial genre.
Nowadays, the Disco Polo genre is about as respected
as Country & Western or Smooth Jazz. Nonetheless,
Disco Polo artists continue to break album sales records
and tour regularly despite being the butt of almost
every musical joke. The truth is, while it’s been officially
cool to make fun of Disco Polo for the better part of
a decade, it’s every red-blooded Pole’s guilty pleasure.
84 Poznań In Your Pocket
NOVOTEL POZNAŃ MALTA
QK‑3, ul. Termalna 5, tel. (+48) 61 654 31 00, www.
accorhotels.com. 149 rooms (149 singles, 149 doubles).
PLATINUM PALACE RESIDENCE
Qul. Reymonta 19 (entrance from ul. Wyspiańskiego)
(Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 882 39 40, www.
platinumpalace.pl. 14 rooms (14 singles, 13 doubles).
PURO HOTEL POZNAŃ
QD‑1, ul. Stawna 12, tel. (+48) 61 333 10 00, www.
purohotel.pl. 136 rooms (134 singles, 134 doubles,
2 suites). PH6U
QA‑2, ul. Św. Marcin 71, tel. (+48) 61 858 23 00, www.
hotel-royal.com.pl. 39 rooms (11 singles, 26 doubles,
1 suite, 1 apartment). HL hhh
QG‑1, ul. Winogrady 9, tel. (+48) 61 858 81 00, www.
vivaldi.pl. 48 rooms (38 singles, 9 doubles, 1 apartment).
QE‑2, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 96, tel. (+48) 61 845 66 00,
www.campanile.com. 80 rooms (76 singles, 76 doubles,
4 apartments). PH6UK hh
GARDEN BOUTIQUE RESIDENCE
QD‑1, ul. Wroniecka 24, tel. (+48) 61 222 29 99,
www.gardenhotel.pl. 17 rooms (2 singles, 12 doubles,
2 triples, 1 apartment). PLK
QE‑4, ul. Grunwaldzka 222, tel. (+48) 61 899 32 63,
www.hotel-222.pl. 51 rooms (51 singles, 51 doubles).
Qul. Dworska 1 (Stare Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 821 36 66,
www.hotelforza.pl. 24 rooms (24 singles, 24 doubles).
Qul. 28 Czerwca 1956 r. 209 (Wilda), tel. (+48) 61 222 84
00, www.hotelkorel.pl. 41 rooms (34 singles, 13 doubles,
4 suites, 3 apartments). PHK hhh
MŁYŃSKIE KOŁO (THE MILLWHEEL)
Qul. Browarna 37 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 878
99 35, www.mlynskiekolo.pl. 14 rooms (12 singles,
12 doubles, 2 apartments). 6K
HOTEL KSIĘCIA JÓZEFA
Qul. Ostrowska 391/393 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48)
61 872 63 19, www.hotelkj.pl. 24 rooms (6 singles,
17 doubles, 1 apartment). PHK
QUALITY SYSTEM - HOTEL POZNAŃ
Qul. Lechicka 101 (Stare Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 821
07 00, www.quality-hotels.pl. 107 rooms (42 singles,
58 doubles, 7 apartments). PH6UKDC
Qul. Krańcowa 4, Luboń, tel. (+48) 61 649 99 88, www.
hotelpoznanski.pl. 107 rooms (100 singles, 100 doubles,
7 suites). HUK hhh
REZYDENCJA SOLEI B&BQD‑1, ul. Szewska 2, tel.
(+48) 510 11 01 30, www.hotel-solei.pl. 10 rooms
(6 singles, 2 doubles, 2 apartments). P6
QH‑4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 23, tel. (+48) 61 858
44 00, www.accorhotels.com. 146 rooms (146 singles,
146 doubles). PTH6UK hh
QC‑2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 22, tel. (+48) 61 852 81 21,
www.hotelrzymski.pl. 87 rooms (28 singles, 53 doubles,
1 suite, 5 apartments). H6ULK hhh
QG‑2, ul. Kościuszki 118, tel. (+48) 61 658 71 05, www.
hotelewam.pl. 145 rooms (57 singles, 80 doubles,
8 suites). PH6U
QC‑3, ul. Rybaki 36, tel. (+48) 61 659 00 43, www.
hotelstaremiasto.pl. 23 rooms (3 singles, 18 doubles,
1 suite, 1 apartment). PH hhh
QA‑2, ul. Św. Marcin 74, tel. (+48) 61 853 01 51, www.
hotel-lech.poznan.pl. 77 rooms (77 singles, 43 doubles,
4 triples). H hh
QF‑5, ul. Przemysłowa 34a, tel. (+48) 61 833 76 00,
www.hotel-topaz.pl. 48 rooms (9 singles, 36 doubles,
2 triples, 1 suite). H6UK hhh
March - June 2016
GOLDQul. Bukowska 127a (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 842 07
74, www.goldhotel.pl. 12 rooms (11 singles, 11 doubles,
1 apartment). H6 hh
HOTEL RAMKAQul. Dąbrowskiego 474 (entrance
from ul. Wejherowska 10, Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 849 94 99,
www.hotelramka.pl. 26 rooms (24 singles, 24 doubles,
2 suites). P6K hhh
OUT OF TOWN
Qul. Jeziorna 1a, Komorniki, tel. (+48) 61 810 80 75,
www.greenhotel.pl. 44 rooms (40 singles, 36 doubles,
4 apartments). PH6ULKD hhh
QE‑4, ul. Śniadeckich 7, tel. (+48) 606 88 88 00, www.
evelvet.pl. 9 rooms (9 apartments).
QC‑3, ul. Piekary 16, tel. (+48) 61 852 53 00, www.
capitalapart.pl. 29 rooms (29 apartments). 6
POZNAŃ IYP ONLINE
Due to space restrictions in our print guide, we’re
actually only able to publish a fraction of all the
excellent content we have on Poznań. Below is a
sampling of articles that didn’t make this issue’s cut,
with links to where you’ll find them online. Thanks for
reading In Your Pocket!
THE ENIGMA CODE
Have you seen The Imitation
Game? What the film didn’t
tell you (what a shocker) is
that the cracking of the first
Enigma codes was achieved
right here in Poznań by Polish
math majors, whose work formed the foundation of
everything that would later take place at Bletchley Park.
Get the whole story here:
Poznań was once a heavily fortified city, as evidenced by
the 18 early-19th century forts that surround the centre.
While today most are completely abandoned, some
are open to the public in various forms, and make an
interesting form of alternative sightseeing. To that end
we detail each of the 18 and tell you how to find them:
86 Poznań In Your Pocket
QE‑3, ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. (+48) 728 41 48 27, www.
classico-apartamenty.com. 25 rooms (25 apartments).
PLATINUM PALACE APARTMENTS
QB‑3, ul. Ogrodowa 17, tel. (+48) 61 671 05 66,
(27 apartments). 6
POMARAŃCZARNIAQC‑3, ul. Rybaki 12, tel. (+48)
515 377 320, www.apartamenty-pomaranczarnia.pl.
41 rooms (41 apartments). 6
QD‑3, ul. Wszystkich Świętych 6, tel. (+48) 600 96
55 55, www.explorerhostel.pl. 22 rooms (22 singles,
12 doubles, 6 triples, 3 quads). LK
FUSION HOSTELQF‑3, ul. Św. Marcin 66/72, tel. (+48)
61 852 12 30, www.fusionhostel.pl. 17 rooms (3 doubles,
1 triple, 71 dorm beds). YU
QC‑2, ul. Marcinkowskiego 20, tel. (+48) 61 852 20
74, www.lagitarra.com/poznan. 16 rooms (2 singles,
5 doubles, 6 quads, 60 dorm beds). 6
QC‑2, Stary Rynek 67 (entrance from ul. Kozia 16), tel.
(+48) 61 851 60 60, www.melody-hostel.pl. 16 rooms
(2 singles, 10 doubles, 1 quad, 16 dorm beds, 1 sixperson room).
POCO LOCO HOSTEL
QB‑3, ul. Taczaka 23, tel. (+48) 796 23 05 55, www.
hostel.poco-loco.pl. 9 rooms (2 doubles, 46 dorm beds).
QC‑2, ul. Wrocławska 13, tel. (+48) 61 855 27 61.
9 rooms (9 singles, 9 doubles, 1 triple, 1 quad).
SLEEP IN HOSTEL & APARTMENTS
QC‑2, Stary Rynek 77, tel. (+48) 61 639 40 04, www.
sleepinhostel.pl. 27 rooms (20 singles, 20 doubles,
7 apartments). 6
SODA HOSTEL & APARTMENTS
QE‑3, ul. gen. Jana Henryka Dąbrowskiego 27a, tel.
(+48) 793 27 27 20, www.sodahostel.com. 14 rooms
(8 singles, 5 doubles, 3 quads, 36 dorm beds). Y
VERY BERRY HOSTEL
QC‑2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 11/17, tel. (+48) 61 855 17
63, www.very-berry.pl. 24 rooms (6 singles, 10 doubles,
5 triples, 4 quads, 40 dorm beds). 6
IN THE CITY
1 500 parking spaces
All you need to
know about where
to sleep, eat, drink,
visit and enjoy
Europe's biggest publisher of locally produced city guides
Al. Armii Poznań G‑1/2
Al. Cytadelowiczów G‑1
Al. Marcinkowskiego C‑1/2
Al. Niepodległości A‑1/3
Al. Wielkopolska E‑1/F‑2
gen. Dąbrowskiego E‑3
Jana Pawła II I‑4/5/J‑3/4
kard. Wyszyńskiego I‑3
Kazimierza Wielkiego H‑4
Królowej Jadwigi G‑4/5
św. Marii Magdaleny D‑3
Wszystkich Świętych D‑3
March - June 2016
1956 Uprising Monument 67
1956 Uprising Museum 8, 67
Adrenaline Alpine Coaster 73
Angielka Cafe and Lunch 40
Avocado Restaurant & Wine 27
Bar a Boo
Bistro La Cocotte
Blow Up Hall 5050 27, 44, 82
Blue Note Jazz Club
British Military Cemetery 63
28, 41, 44, 83
Casa de Vinos
Ceramika Bolesławiecka 78
Church of the Virgin Mary 61
City Guide Poznań
City Information Centre
City Park Hotel & Residence 82
Da Vinci Caffe
Deep Go Go
Drukarnia Skład Wina &
Garden Boutique Residence 84
Genius Loci Archeological Park
Gniezno Archdiocese Museum
GOKO Restauracja Japońska 33
Historical Museum of Poznań
Hotel Księcia Józefa
Hotel Solei Golf
IBB Andersia Hotel
Kawiarnia Nocna Kisielice 46
Kriek Belgian Pub & Cafe 46
KURO by Panamo
KWADRAT Vegan Bistro & Cafe
Kyokai Sushi Bar
Lavenda Gastro & Cafe
Lech Visitor Centre
Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus
Let Me Out
Literary Museum of Henryk
Ludwiku do Rondla
Magnum Shooting Range 70
Maltanka Mini Railway
Mercure Poznań Centrum 84
MIŚ Gastro Bar
Models of Poznań
Moliera 2 Bazar Poznański 76
Monument of the 15th
Poznań Lancers Regiment 54
Monument of the Polish
Underground State & Home
Monument to the Heroes of
the Poznan Citadel
Monument to the Victims of
Katyń & Siberia
Museum of Armaments 63
Museum of the Origins of the
Mykonos Grecka Tawerna 26
Novotel Poznań Centrum 84
Novotel Poznań Malta
Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem 35
Paintball Fort Dębiec
PETIT PARIS Boulangerie 41
Piano Bar Restaurant & Cafe 33
Piece of Cake
Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa
Platinum Palace Apartments
Townhouses soaking up the sun on a fine day
Photo by © Mariusz Prusaczyk | dollar photo club
90 Poznań In Your Pocket
Platinum Palace Residence 84
Poco Loco Hostel
Porta Posnania Interactive
Heritage Centre of Cathedral
Poznań Army Museum
Poznań Bamber Museum 58
Poznan City Center
Poznań Croissant Museum
Projekt Iwona Rychlewicz 76
PURO Hotel Poznań
Quality System - Hotel Poznań
Regatta Wellness & Spa
Rezydencja Solei B&B
Sheraton Poznan Hotel
Sleep In Hostel & Apartments
Słodkie Czary Mary
Soda Hostel & Apartments 86
St. Adalbert's Church
Targowisko Wielkopolskie 75
Thai Fast Wok
Thai Smile Massage
The Bell of Peace and
Friendship Among Nations 64
The Imperial Castle
The New Zoo
The Old Town Hall
The Old Zoo
The Royal Castle
Tourist Information Centre 52
Very Berry Hostel
Warto nad Wartą
Weranda Lunch & Wine 32
Whisky Bar 88
Why Thai Food & Wine
Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum
Wielkopolska Military Museum
Zemsta Anarchist Bookshop &
Zindo Sushi Korean - Japanese
GET THE APP
New 3D street mural just beyond Ostrów Tumski in Środka
(ul. Śródka 3, I-3).
1945 Battle of Poznań
Easter in Poland
Facts & Figures
Lech Visitors Centre
Poznań in 24 Hours / 3 Days
Poznań IYP online
Poznań Tourist Card
Poznań Trade Fairs
The Imperial Castle
The old Town Hall
The Old Town Square
The Royal Castle
Useful Transport Apps
World War II Poznan
March - June 2016
Cemetery Poznań Army
City Park Hotel & Residence
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