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No. 35, January - April 2016

No. 35 - 5zł

2016 European
Capital of Culture


2016 Capital of Culture


Arrival & Transport


City Basics
Basic History


Culture & Events 16









Maps & Index
Street Index




Listings Index




Features Index




City Map


City Centre Map




The Old Town
Ostrów Tumski
Centennial Hall & Parks
Jewish Wrocław


Head to Barbara (p.7) to put your finger on the pulse of Wrocław’s Capital of Culture campaign, and learn more about Wrocław’s love of
© Press materials ESK Wrocław 2016
neon on p.62.

January - April 2016


With the powder keg of 2016 ready to erupt as we write this,
it’s a time of milestone moments and great excitement in
Lower Silesia’s capital city. As we at IYP send our landmark
35th issue of Wrocław In Your Pocket to press (huzzah!),
the city is celebrating our accomplishments in grand style
by kicking off a year-long programme of special cultural
events. Okay, so there’s also the small official matter of
Wrocław being European Capital of Culture in 2016
(page 6), but we like to think we’ve played our part in
bringing prestige and tourist interest to Wrocław during
the twelve year spotlight we’ve put on this city. As we’ve
been saying for the past decade-plus, it’s no surprise
that Wrocław has been selected to stand out amongst
Europe’s great cities. Situated sublimely on the Odra River,
Wrocław easily holds its own with its more-celebrated
neighbours Vienna, Kraków and Prague in terms of aweinspiring architecture, postcard panoramas and dawnbreaking parties. Everything you need to know for a most
memorable time has been meticulously transcribed within
these pages, so please reward our hard work by giving it a
good read and keeping it securely in your pocket as you go
out and feel the Wroclove this season.

IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k.
ul. Sławkowska 12, 31-014 Kraków
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General Manager: Małgorzata Drząszcz, 606 749 676
Accountant: Joanna Szlosowska, 882 079 716
15,000 copies published 3 times per year
Editor: Garrett van Reed; Contributing writer: Janina Krzysiak;
Research Manager: Anna Hojan; Researchers: Oliwia Hojan,
Anna Żbikowska;
Layout: Tomáš Haman; Events: Maria Rulaff, Janina Krzysiak;
Photography: All photographs In Your Pocket unless otherwise
stated; Cover © sinuswelle | Dollar Photo Club
Sales & Circulation
Kraków/Katowice/Tarnów Manager:
Monika Szymanek 668 876 351
Warsaw Manager: Klaudia Briss 606 749 643
Poznań/Wrocław Manager: Agata Urbanowicz 606 749 642
Gdańsk/Łódź Manager: Bartosz Matyjas 784 966 824


Copyright Notice & Editor’s Note
Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP Sp. Z o.o., IYP City
Guides Sp. Z o.o. Sp.k. Maps copyright Agencja Reklamowa POD
ANIOLEM. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be
reproduced in any form without written permission from the
copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under
license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania
tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent
from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to
ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.

2016 is finally upon us as
Wrocław proudly dons the
prestigious mantle of European
Capital of Culture. With literally
hundreds of events scheduled to
take place, there’s certainly never
been a better time to visit the
city. Turn to page 6 to find out more.
















Wrocław In Your Pocket

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2016 European Capital of Culture

Neon across from the main train station (B-6)

Even as opposing views on politics, monetary policy,
immigration, and various contemporary crises challenge
the European Union, there’s one thing seemingly everyone
can agree on - there’s a wealth of culture and history to be
celebrated on the Old Continent. With that in mind, the
European Capital of Culture programme was proposed
in 1983 by Greek Minister of Culture Melina Mercouri, who
wanted a greater emphasis placed on cultural matters in
order to build togetherness and a shared identity between
EU member states. Two years later, Athens became the first
title-holder; since then, each year has seen one or two cities
put in the spotlight for twelve months of special cultural
events, which help to raise the visibility of often-underrated
(or little-known) places, give them a bit of pride and
prestige, and effectively bring about urban regeneration.
This last point has become one of the most successful
and valued aspects of the programme - to the point that
the predicted level of improvement is now considered
as a main criterion when poring over candidates. Poland
has had one Capital of Culture representative already,
with Kraków (a rather obvious choice) holding the title
in 2000. Now, sixteen years later, it’s Wrocław’s time to
shine as the city dives into a year of cultural appreciation
and contemplation together with 2016 co-capital San
Sebastián, Spain.
It really is past time to put this dame of a city on the wider
European tourist radar. A place with a rich and tragic history,
Wrocław was established in the 10th century by Bohemian
duke Vratislaus I, and found itself bouncing between
the Bohemians, Poles, Habsburgs, and Prusso-Germans
throughout the ages. Mix in a sizeable Jewish population
before the tragedy of the Holocaust, and you’ve got a place
where cultures meshed, and shared Central European
history was created. What resulted was a splendidly beautiful
agglomeration of Gothic and Baroque architecture, with
what is quite possibly the most striking Main Square in

Wrocław In Your Pocket

present-day Poland, depending who you ask. Sadly, WWII
brought large-scale devastation to Wrocław, with half of the
Old Town and 90% of the suburbs turned to rubble, and the
communist times weren’t much kinder, with drab, concrete
Socialist architecture mushrooming outside the centre and
invading space opened up by destroyed historic buildings.
The post-war years saw a cultural metamorphosis take place
as German inhabitants were forced out of the newly-Polish
territory and newcomers flooded in, pushing the city’s
Jewish and German heritage out of sight and out of mind.
It was time for Wrocław to take on a new identity to fit the
needs of a new people - and much time would pass before
the city would proudly embrace its complex, convoluted
roots once more. With a vibrant cultural scene, openness
to diversity, and ongoing rejuvenation projects - especially
in the north-of-the-Oder Nadodrze district, which is rising
out of post-war poverty like a phoenix from the ashes Wrocław is now ready to present itself to the world and be
appreciated for the remarkable place that it has been and
continues to be.
The goals for 2016 are simple - the city wants to enhance its
visibility, boost local pride, increase the number of tourists,
improve access to culture, stimulate artistic initiatives, and
create an open, dynamic space to conduct dialogue about
Wrocław’s cultural evolution in the past and future. But
mostly, for tourists and Vratislavians alike, the European
Capital of Culture title will mean a year chock-full of shows,
concerts, conferences, exhibitions, meetings, and other
cultural events organised into eight disciplines: opera,
theatre, visual arts, music, film, performance, literature,
and architecture, each managed by a different prominent
curator. The overarching theme will be to view Wrocław
in four contexts - by itself, as the capital of Lower Silesia,
as Poland’s fourth-largest city, and as a point of interest
on the European and global map. Here’s to the start of an
engaging and enriching year!

2016 European Capital of Culture
With literally thousands of events scheduled to take
place in the next twelve months, 2016 promises to be
the biggest year in Wrocław’s recent history, and there’s
certainly never been a better time to visit. Though the
most marquee events will take place in the spring and
summer, there is still plenty to be excited for in the
first third of the year, beginning with the Opening
Weekend on January 15-17, which promises almost
100 events in just three days. Below we list some of the
highlights from the first four months, but you’ll find
even more in our Events section starting on page 16;
more info and full programme details in English can
be found online at the city’s official Capital of Culture

16.01 SATURDAY - 20.03 SUNDAY
Also known as the European Union Award for
Contemporary Architecture, the Mies van der Rohe Award
is one of the most prestigious recognitions an architect
can get in this part of the world. Given biennially, in
2015 it was awarded to Barozzi Veiga for his design of the
Szczecin Philharmonic Hall. This exhibition will feature
architectural models, project documentations, and
multimedia presentations.QC‑3, Architecture Museum,
ul. Bernardyńska 5, Open 11:00 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Ticket 10/7zł, Wed free.

15.01 FRIDAY - 17.01 SUNDAY
This interdisciplinary festival is dedicated to the memory of
Melina Mercouri (creator of the European Capital of Culture
programme, talented actress, and former Greek Minister
of Culture) and French-Greek composer / music theorist
Iannis Xenakis. Planned events include a photo exhibition,
three concerts (symphonic, chamber, electro-acoustic),
and a show.QA‑4, National Forum of Music, Pl. Wolności
1, tel. (+48) 71 342 20 01, Ticket
price depends on the event.

16.01, 25.01, 30.01, 06.02
This special painting-literature-music-theatre project will
kick off Wrocław’s year as the European Capital of Culture.
The National Museum exhibition space will be acting as the
stage for nine performances inspired by paintings such as
Wassily Kandinsky’s Evening and Władysław Podkowiński’s
Meeting (directed by Jacqueline Kornmüller).QD‑3,
National Museum, Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 5, tel.
(+48) 71 372 51 50, Event starts at
16:00. Tickets 10-20zł. Available at National Museum
box office (Open 10:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon).

17.01 SUNDAY
The Capital of Culture year will kick off in grand style with
a dramatic performance and parade directed by Chris
Baldwin, with costume design by Philippe Geffroy. Four giant
Spirits of Wrocław - the Spirit of the Flood, the Spirit of Many
Faiths, the Spirit of Rebuilding, or the Spirit of Innovation will awaken and gradually make a 5-7 km journey from the
Wrocław suburbs to the market square, where the four will
come together in a spectacular multi-media show that will
not only tell the rich history of the city but also completely
transform the market square and surrounding buildings as
part of the set. Further details of the event have not been
disclosed in an effort to surprise and stimulate the audience,
which everyone is invited to become a part of. Promising to
be one of the biggest events of any kind in the city’s history,
‘Awakening’ will include over 1300 artists, 200 singers, 50
soldiers, 20 outstanding musicians, 300 cyclists, 30 light
installations, 30 gigantic effigies and five trams.QA/B‑3,
Market Square. Event starts at 16:00.
15.01 FRIDAY - 13.03 SUNDAY
As a gesture of dialogue and solidarity with Wrocław’s
partner Capital of Culture, San Sebastián, this exhibition
of works by Basque abstract sculptor Eduardo Chillida will
be on display at the BWA Awangarda Gallery from January
until March.QB‑3, Galeria Awangarda, ul. Wita Stwosza
32, tel. (+48) 71 790 25 82, Open
11:00 - 18:00, Fri 12:00 - 20:00. Admission 8/4zł, Wed

Unconventional artistic events and concerts will take
place throughout the entire year in “forgotten” spaces
including townhouse stairwells, historic courtyards, and
dingy underpasses. The programme is undisclosed at press
time, so keep close watch.QEvent takes place in various

Launched last summer as the official information
centre and meeting point for Wrocław’s Capital of
Culture tenure, this modern, minimal and versatile
space functions as a cafe, gallery, concert venue
and cultural centre. With a welcoming atmosphere
thanks to huge street-side windows, here you’ll find
helpful staff, plenty of free promotional materials
and events programmes, plus computers with
access to more information online. Barbara will
also host exhibitions, lectures, workshops, concerts
and other happenings, so it’s absolutely the first
place you should go to get plugged into what
buzzing in Wrocław as part of the Capital of Culture
programme.QB‑3, ul. Świdnicka 8C, tel. (+48) 717
12 75 75, Open 08:00 20:00.
January - April 2016


Arrival & Transport

Wrocław Główny, the nicest train station in Poland.

Served by it’s own airport (with a new 3-storey terminal)
only 13km from the city centre, a gorgeous, recentlymodernised train station and one of the country’s best
highways connecting it to Berlin to the west and Kraków
to the east, it’s never been easier to get to or from Wrocław.
Several trains depart to Germany and Czech Republic
each day, the city is a hub for Polski Bus, and also boasts a
comprehensive and easy to use tram system. In this section
you’ll find all you’ll need to know about getting to and
getting around Wrocław.

Wrocław is well-designed for train travel, boasting a
gloriously renovated main train station that was at one
time the largest in Europe. Fully modernised in 2012 before
the Euro Cup, today Wrocław’s Dworzec Główny is arguably
the nicest train station in Poland, making a wonderful
impression on all those who arrive via the rails. Located just
south of the market square, from here it is possible to catch
quick domestic connections to Kraków (3.5hrs), Warsaw
(4hrs) and Poznań (2.5hrs), but international destinations
like Berlin and Prague require a changing of trains. Miłej
The beneficiary of a massive modernisation project,
Wrocław’s main train station has never looked better.
Completed in 1857, this grandiose Neo-Gothic building,
with its decadent exterior of turrets and crenellations, looks
more like a storybook palace than a modern transportation
hub. Just south of the Old Town, Wrocław Główny is

Wrocław In Your Pocket

preceded by a public square dotted with benches and
two playful fountains flanking the front entrance. Inside,
all the elegant architectural details of the original design
have been brought back to life, while new digital displays
give you all the arrival and departure info you need.
Modernised to be completely handicap accessible, there
are even handy conveyors to put your luggage on if you
chose the stairs. Other amenities include 24-hour ticket
windows, automated ticket machines inside and out, an
information desk (open 07:00 - 21:00), lockers and a left
luggage service, ATMs (bankomat), currency exchange
offices (kantor), comfortable waiting rooms, and a plethora
of shops, restaurants and cafes. Overall it adds up to the
most convenient, comfortable, and easy to navigate train
station in Poland.
Visit the Polish railways website at - which
has limited but effective English language functionality to check the departure times ahead of travelling, and the
large digital display board in the station for the number of
the platform (peron).
As for getting into town, you are basically in it, with most
of the city’s hotels and hostels within 15mins walking
distance. You can take a tram two stops north to Galeria
Dominikańska to get a bit closer to the market square (head
west from there), or hop in one of the taxis waiting of front
of both station entrances.QB‑6, ul. Piłsudskiego 105, tel.
(+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www. Open 24hrs. Note that due to system
maintenance seat reservations cannot be made from
24:00 to 01:00.

Arrival & Transport
Wrocław can boast one of Poland’s most efficient and
modern airports, thanks to the shiny new terminal built
a few hundred metres from the old one and opened in
March 2012. Completed ahead of the Euro 2012 Football
Championships the new terminal can handle over 3 million
passengers annually and is Ryanair’s first hub in Poland.
Wrocław’s modern airport does a fine job of ushering
people in and out of the city. Just 13km west of the city
centre you should be through passport control and
baggage claim rather quickly, at which stage you will
probably start thinking about local cash. We recommend
using an ATM (‘bankomat’) as the airport’s currency
exchange desk offers what we might politely call ‘NOT
the best exchange rates in town.’ At the airport you’ll also
find press stores, tourist and airport information desks, a
restaurant, bars and a coffee shop.
The city is finally developing a rail link between the airport
and the Old Town, but at the moment the most sensible
way to get to the centre is via bus 406, which runs roughly
every 20mins between 05:00 and 24:00 from the airport
to the train station (B-6), with central stops also at Pl. Orląt
Lwowskich (E-4) and Renoma (A-4). Night bus 249 departs
the airport for the centre at 00:37, 03:18 and 04:19. Bus tickets
cost 3.00zl during the day, 3.20zł at night, and can be bought
from the press store inside the terminal building or from the
machine next to the bus stop. The journey takes 30-40mins.
Alternatively, you can jump into one of the taxis sitting
outside the terminal and expect a 20min ride to the centre.
Pick-ups are restricted to three vetted firms (but others are
waiting nearby): EcoCar (tel. 12 345 67 89), Taxi Plus (tel. 601
70 07 53) and Partner Taxi (tel. 71 196 27). The tariffs are
similar, but Partner Taxi seem to have the best rates: about
50zł weekdays, 70zł weekends.
For live arrival and departure information call the number
given or visit the airport’s excellent website.Qul. Graniczna
190 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 358 14 10, www.airport.

January - April 2016


Arrival & Transport


Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities,
a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure
of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road
surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different
traffic and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result in
the common sight of mangled wrecks around the country.
Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the vehicle in
front, rub those rosary beads and God speed.

A stop on the Eurolines international coach network,
Wrocław is also a hub for Polski Bus (, with
regular connections to Kraków, Prague, Łódź and Warsaw.

The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities
(60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside
urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/
hr on motorways. All cars must have their headlights
switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle,
first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker
and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland
also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum
blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single
beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licences
as long as they are valid (and you have it on you when
driving), however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the
Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find
their licences technically invalid (though this has never
been a problem for anyone we know).
One of the only major highways in the country, the A4
connects Wrocław with Berlin (via Legnica) and Kraków
(via Opole and Katowice). Much of Wrocław’s centre is
pedestrianised, and one-way and permit-only streets only
help to make driving in the centre an absolute nightmare.
Poor planning and limited traffic patterns mean congestion is
a major, major problem as well; call a cab and it might take as
much as twenty minutes to get to you, though it’s only a few
blocks away. As such, we suggest you ditch your vehicle at the
first opportunity, which raises the question of where to put it.
Parking lots are marked on the map in the back of our
print guide, and free parking is basically non-existent,
though some hotels have limited parking spaces; check
when booking your room. For street parking you’ll easily
recognise the universal large blue ‘P’ sign, but be aware
that a blue circle with a red ‘X’ over it means ‘No Parking’
(not sure which universe that sign is from). Pay via the
automated ticket machines; in the city centre it’s 3zł for the
first hour, 3.60zł for the second hour and 4.30zł for the third.
Thereafter you’ll be forking out 3 zeds an hour.
Monitored parking for cars and buses near the Racławice
Panorama.QC‑3, ul. Purkyniego 11, tel. (+48) 728 97 90
Above and below ground guarded parking for passenger
cars and buses in front of Centennial Hall.QI‑4, ul.
Wystawowa 1 (entrance from ul. Kopernika), tel. (+48)
71 346 14 22,
10 Wrocław In Your Pocket

Set-up to temporarily serve as Wrocław’s bus station until
2017 while the city’s original PKS station gets a muchneeded renovation, this make-shift station is performing
its function admirably. Located in the parking lot of an
administration building directly behind the platform access
tunnel of Wrocław’s train station, only 100 metres from the
former bus station, the temporary station is well-marked
and travellers should find navigating the inconvenience
created by the construction both simple and speedy. Most
ticket windows are open 06:00 - 22:00, but an international
ticket desk and Polski Bus window are open 24 hours.
Toilets, a cash machine and a few food vendors are also onhand for your gastro and gastral needs, and more services
can be found across the street in the train station. A 24hour infoline has also been established: call 703 400 444
from domestic numbers and (71) 373 28 46 internationally.
Overall, we’d call the temporary arrangements an
improvement over the former station, with the exception
of limited waiting room space when it’s raining.
Most hotels and hostels are within a 15min walk, but to
catch local transport to the centre you’ll need to walk back
towards the old station and the ‘Dworzec Autobusowy’ stop
(A-6) from which tram 15 will take you as close to the market
square as possible (get off at ‘Rynek’); or walk through the
train station for more options from the ‘Dworzec Główny’
stop (B-5). Alternatively, jump in a Partner Taxi (71 196 27)
to avoid the fuss.QB‑6, ul. Joannitów 13.

Internationally trusted service
offering a range of vehicles
from sedan to mini-vans. Avis
also has a desk at the airport but you must arrange in
advance to pick up or drop off a car there.QA‑5, ul.
Piłsudskiego 49-57 (Scandic Hotel), tel. (+48) 601
35 48 11, Open 08:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun
open on request.
A wide range of cars from
the baby Fiat Panda to the
spacious Mercedes E220 CDi
station wagon. All cars are equipped with power assisted
steering. Satellite navgation systems are also available.
Special rates offered to those who order through the
Joka website.QB‑5, ul. Kościuszki 34 (Pałacyk), tel.
(+48) 601 54 53 69, Open 09:00 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Sun open on request.

Arrival & Transport
Wrocław’s public transport system is easy to use and fairly
extensive, with 120 bus lines and 23 tram lines. You’ll rarely
need trams or buses to get around the Old Town, but many
affordable hotels and some sights (like Centennial Hall) are
located outside the centre. Major hubs for trams and buses
include the main train station (B-6), Pl. Dominikański (C-3),
and Pl. Jana Pawła II (E-4). Buses and trams run roughly from
04:00 to 00:00, with night buses running less frequently
after that.
Tourists should have no trouble using the English option
on the ticket machines now stationed at most transit stops
and on all trams and buses. Note, however, that while ticket
machines at transit stops accept coins and cash, those on
board trams and buses only take plastic. A single fare ticket
is 3zł, but be aware that night buses cost 3.20zł. ISIC or other
non-Polish student IDs are valid for a significant student
discount, but you must carry your ID. Most importantly,
remember that tickets are not valid until you stamp
them once inside the tram or bus. Sneaky plain-clothed
inspectors regularly travel the lines handing out hefty fines
to those without valid tickets; being a foreigner will not
excuse you, it will only mean you’ll have to pay in cash on
the spot.
Schedules posted at each stop tend to be right on the
money. ‘W dni robocze’ means Monday through Friday
and ‘W dni wolne’ means Saturday and Sunday. For route
planning, check out the super helpful website www.

Lux Taxi prides itself on its
competitive rates, clean cars
and well-mannered drivers, all of
whom speak English or German,
and some are even licenced tour
guides. 6-8 person taxi vans are available, and you can
conveniently pay with by credit card.Qtel. (+48) 71
196 23,
Operating clean, recognisable
cars of the same distinctive
make (Volkswagen Passats or
Skoda Superbs), from Partner
you can request an Englishspeaking driver or carseat for your child, and when
you’ve blown all your cash at the bar you can pay with a
credit card to get home.Qtel. (+48) 71 196 27, www.


tel: +48 22 572 65 65

January - April 2016


City Basics


Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometres and
is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the
Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely Belarus
(416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km),
the Russian enclave of Kaliningrad (210km), Lithuania
(103km), Slovakia (539km) and Ukraine (529km).

Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite
increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices. Market values as of December 16,
2015 based on €1 = 4.33zł

Wrocław has an area of 292.82 square kilometres, and is
the largest city in Lower Silesia (Dolny Śląsk).
The river Vistula (Wisła) is Poland’s longest river at
1,047km and flows through Kraków and Warsaw before
reaching the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska). Wrocław
sits on the Oder (Odra) River which flows 854km through
western PL and forms 187km of the Polish-German
border before reaching the Baltic at Szczecin, PL.
Poland - 38,478,602
Warsaw - 1,735,442
Kraków - 761,873
Łódź - 706,004
Wrocław - 634,487
Poznań - 545,680
Gdańsk - 461,489
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Wrocław it’s 6:00 am in New
York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and
19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts
and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.

In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users should
dial 112 to be forwarded to the police, fire department
or ER. From a land-line or public phone dial the following:
Ambulance: 999; Fire: 998; Police: 997.
English, German and Russian speakers have separate
lines specifically designed for foreigners in distress: +48
608 599 999 or +48 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can
be reached from a mobile phone or a land-line and are
hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your stay.
The lines are active year round with later hours during the
high-tourist season.
For urgent medical emergencies, a list of Emergency
Rooms can be found in the Directory on page 80. If you’ve
woken up to find you’ve got a raging headache, a swollen
foot you can’t put weight on and vague memories of some
kind of calamity, we suggest you sort it out by calling
a private clinic (p.81), thus avoiding the hassle of the
12 Wrocław In Your Pocket

McDonald's Big Mac
0.5ltr vodka (shop)
0.5ltr beer (shop)
0.5ltr beer (bar)
Loaf of white bread
20 Marlboros
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98)
Local transport ticket (1 journey)

9.70 zł
1.69 zł
23.99 zł
2.99 zł
8.00 zł
3.69 zł
15.00 zł
4.49 zł
3.00 zł

€ 2.35
€ 0.39
€ 5.54
€ 0.69
€ 1.85
€ 0.85
€ 3.46
€ 1.04
€ 0.69

notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals. Further help
can be provided by embassies and consulates, a list of
which you’ll find on page 80.

In general Wrocław is safer than most West European cities,
and visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they simply
employ common sense. Perhaps the biggest danger in
Wrocław is posed by groups of drunken football hooligans
who can be heard coming a mile away and easily avoided.
Petty crime does exist, so don’t leave your belongings
laying around while in public places (like bars), and be
mindful of pickpockets. Robberies on overnight trains are
also not unheard of, especially on the routes connecting
Wrocław with Prague and Berlin; book a couchette or
sleeper cabin and keep an eye on your things.
Staying safe and on the right side of the law is significantly
easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka
are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If you’re determined
to make an idiot of yourself then make sure it’s not in
front of the law. Since the budget airline boom, plenty of
geniuses - from those in Chewbacca costumes to complete
prats who’ve thought it’s perfectly acceptable to drop
their trousers and urinate in a city centre fountain - have
tested the patience of local law enforcement, which is now
decidedly low so don’t push your luck. Those who do may
well be treated to a trip to the drunk tank, where you can
expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and the company
of a dozen mumbling vagrants; not to mention a hefty fine.
Other easy ways for tourists to cross cops is by riding
public transport without a ticket (see page 11), and (silly
as it may seem) jaywalking. If you are from a country which
doesn’t have or respect jaywalking laws, you’ll be surprised
to see crowds of people standing obediently at a crossing

City Basics
waiting for the lights to change. The reason for obeying
this seemingly silly rule is the fact that the local city police
(Straż Miejska) will quite freely give you a 50-100zł fine for
crossing a road at a place where no crossing is marked or a
100zł fine when the ‘walk’ light is red. And don’t think you
are exempt by being a foreign visitor. You are subject to the
law too and your non-residency means you will be forced
to pay the fine on the spot.

Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the
100zł notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops,
newsagents, public toilets, even the occasional fast food
franchise and bar will often refuse to break a large note for
you. As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for
such moments.
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and
anywhere with a sign proclaiming ‘Kantor’. Kantors will
often provide better value than the banks in your home
country or the ATM although for obvious reasons be very
wary of Kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to
tourist sites. Shopping around will reward you with the best
rate. For a list of kantors in Wrocław that won’t rip you off,
see page 80.
Since EU ascension and becoming a favoured tourist
destination, prices in Poland have been on the rise, making
the country less of a bargain than it was five years ago.
Having said that, however, prices for food, drink, cultural
venues and transport still remain comparably cheap in
contrast to Western Europe. A ticket to the cinema typically
costs 15-25zł, while admission to most museums usually
costs between 5zł and 15zł.

According to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, 95% of Poles
are Roman Catholics. And though that figure is based on
baptisms and the number of actual practising Catholics is
probably closer to 75% (and falling), Poland remains one
of the most religious countries in Europe. For over one
thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism,
fighting against pagan invasions and looking to religion
for a sense of social and national unity. When Poland
was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the
Church for solace; during the communist era, underground
resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches.
The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a
genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way
more profound than cynics in the West can understand.
Those used to the more easy-going habits of the West may
find the Polish enthusiasm for religion a bit unnerving at
first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that
occur from time to time and the droves that flock to mass.
Tourists should remember while visiting Wrocław’s many
churches that these aren’t museums, but active places of
worship to be treated with the requisite respect.

Attempting discourse in the Polish language can be
terrifying and humiliating, but fortunately for you many
Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command
of the English language. Though you can probably get
by without it, learning a few key Polish phrases will
nonetheless smooth your time in Wroclaw and may even
win you friends and admirers.
On the downside, Polish is officially recognised as one of
the most difficult languages for native English speakers to
learn. On the upside, however, unlike in English, words in
Polish are actually spelled the way they are pronounced.
This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each
letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent
the same sounds as they do in English, below we have
listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic
words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!

Basic Pronunciation

‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’
‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’
‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’
‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘
‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’
‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’
‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’
‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’
‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’
‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’
‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’
‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’
‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’
‘r’ is always rolled

Polish Words & Phrases
Hi/Bye (informal)
Hello/Good day (formal)
Good evening (formal)
Good Night
Thank you
Excuse me/Sorry

Dzień dobry
Dobry wieczór
Do widzenia

(Jen doh-bri)
(Doh-bri vyeh-choor)
(Doh veet-zen-ya)

My name is...
I’m from England.
Do you speak English?
I don’t speak Polish.
I don’t understand.
Two beers, please.
Where are the toilets?
You are beautiful.
I love you.
Please take me home.
Call me!

Mam na imię...
Jestem z Anglii
Czy mówisz po angielsku?
Nie mówię po polsku.
Nie rozumiem.
Dwa piwa proszę.
Na zdrowie!
Gdzie są toalety?
Jesteś piękna.
Kocham cię.
Proszę zabierz mnie
do domu.
Zadzwoń do mnie!

(Mam nah ee-myeh…)
(Yehstem zanglee)
(Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?)
(Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.)
(Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)
(Dvah peevah prosheh.)
(Nah zdrovyeh!)
(Gdjeh sawn toe-letih)
(Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)
(Ko-hahm chuh.)
(Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh
(Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)

Train station
Bus station
One ticket to…

Dworzec PKP
Dworzec PKS
Jeden bilet do…

(Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh)
(Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess)
(Yeh-den bee-let doh…)

January - April 2016


Basic History
Wrocław has always been the
dominant capital of Silesia, a
region whose story begins
with the establishment of a
stronghold along the Amber
Road and Via Regia trading
routes on what is today
Ostrów Tumski (p.64) by the
Slavic Ślężanie tribe in the 8th
century. Absorbed into Czech
Bohemia, the expanding
fortress was first recorded in the 10th century under the
name ‘Vratislavia,’ thought to be derived from the name
of the Bohemian duke Vratislav I. In 990, however, the Piast
duke Mieszko I conquered the region and by 1000AD the
city had expanded to 1,000 inhabitants, prompting Polish
king Bolesław I to establish Silesia’s first bishopric on the
site of today’s Cathedral of St. John the Baptist (p.66).
Over the next century, religious and political conflict saw
the region pass back forth between Poland and Bohemia
numerous times, before finding some stability under the
Silesian Piast dynasty who ruled the area during the so
called ‘Age of Fragmentation’ (1138-1320) when Poland was
divided into autonomous principalities. A Mongol raid in
1241 devastated the city, but it was rebuilt under Magdeburg
Law with city planners expanding it to incorporate many of
the outlying settlements, shifting the city centre away from
Ostrów Tumski (which became the city’s religious centre) to
the other side of the river, building a moat and defensive
walls around it, and laying out the market square (p.55) as
it appears to this day. Settlers flocked to the city, and ethnic
Germans soon became the most dominant demographic.
The Piast line petered out in 1335 when Duke Henryk VI died
without an heir and earlier treaties dictated the transfer of the
region to Bohemian rule once again. Under the Luxemburg
dynasty the city generally prospered, but the dominance
of the merchant class, which controlled the Town Council,
lead to strife with the church and lower classes resulting in
outright revolt in 1418 when guildsmen stormed the Town
Hall and beheaded the mayor. Printing with movable type
began in 1475, with many variations of the city’s name
appearing, including Wretslav, Wratislav, Prezzla, Presslay
and Bresslau (p.53). By 1526 - when Bohemian King Louis
Jagiellon’s death ended prolonged fighting over Bohemian
succession and transferred the city to the Austrian
Habsburg dynasty - the Reformation had reached the
Silesian capital and Protestantism had become the dominant
religion. During the Thirty Years War (1618-48), the city
fought to maintain its Protestantism, and though occupied,
eluded physical destruction, emerging from the conflict as
one of the only Silesian cities to remain Protestant under
Habsburg rule. However plague and war had taken their
toll on the population, cutting it in half. During the Counterreformation, many Catholic orders were encouraged by the
emperor to settle in Silesia’s capital, including the Jesuits who
founded the Wrocław Jesuit Academy in 1702, which would
later grow into today’s Wrocław University (p56).
14 Wrocław In Your Pocket

During the War of Austrian Succession, the Kingdom of
Prussia laid claim to much of Silesia and Prussian troops
entered what was then known as ‘Breslau’ without a
conflict in 1741. Though heavily taxed and having lost
the self-rule the city had enjoyed since the Middle Ages,
Protestants could now express their faith freely in the
new kingdom and Prussian authorities allowed for the
establishment of a Jewish community. After the demise of
the Holy Roman Empire, Breslau capitulated to Napoleon’s
army in 1807; led by King Frederick III of Prussia - who
lived in Breslau - the city was the centre of the liberation
movement against Napoleonic rule. The tearing down of
Breslau’s defensive fortifications by the French allowed the
city to begin expanding and state reforms helped it prosper
in the 19th century as it grew into a major administrative,
ecclesiastical, military, industrial and science centre.
Over the course of the century the population increased
8-fold (including the third largest Jewish population in
Germany) and Breslau grew into the second largest city
in Prussia; when the German Empire was consolidated in
1871, Breslau entered as the third largest city after Berlin
and Hamburg. The construction of the Centennial Hall
(p.69) in 1913 perhaps best represents the ambition and
achievement of this part of the city’s history.
By being behind the frontlines of WWI, Breslau avoided
damage and was even able to recover quickly from the
economic impoverishment that came with the end of
the conflict. In 1930 it was chosen to host the ‘Deutsche
Kampfspiele’ - a showcase of German athletics after Germany
was banned from the Olympic Games. The Nazi Party
developed one of its largest support bases in Breslau, which
played a large role in voting them to power in 1933. In 1938
state-organised persecution against the city’s minorities,
particularly Poles and Jews, began in earnest and those
who did not escape were killed or sent to the network
of concentration and forced labour camps set up around
Breslau, where many would die later. Safely removed from
the frontlines of WWII, Breslau became a haven for refugees
and its population swelled to close to one million. In August
1944, with the Soviet Army approaching, the city was
declared ‘Festung Breslau’ - a closed fortress to be held at all
costs. When Nazi Commander Karl Hanke lifted a ban on the
evacuation of civilians in January 1945 it was too late: railway
connections had been destroyed or were overcrowded and
tens of thousands froze to death in minus 20 degree ice
storms. Some 200,000 civilians remained in the city as the
Soviet siege began in February; the Siege of Breslau lasted 82
days before capitulation occurred on May 6th, 1945. It was
one of the last German cities to fall, outlasting Berlin by four
days and the war in Europe officially ended only two days
after Breslau’s defeat. 50% of the Old Town was in ruin and
the western and southern suburbs were 90% obliterated.
Tens of thousands had died defending it.
Under the terms of the Potsdam Conference, Lower Silesia
passed to Poland and its largest city became known as
‘Wrocław.’ Poles began arriving immediately as forced
deportations from Eastern Polish lands annexed by the

Basic History

The flood of 1997.

Photo by Piotr Hawałej

Soviet Union and the forced expulsion of Wrocław’s
German population took place simultaneously, leading to
a huge influx of Eastern Poles into Wrocław, particularly
from Lwów (now Lviv, Ukraine); Polish cultural
treasures from Lwów came with them including the
Fredo monument on the market square, the Racławice
Panorama painting (p.60) and the collection of the
Ossolineum library (p.62). A long period of reconstruction
followed, characterised equally by Polonisation and deGermanisation; all German monuments and inscriptions
were removed and Wrocław’s non-Jewish cemeteries
were destroyed. At the same time Sovietisation was also
beginning: businesses were nationalised, Polish political
and religious leaders were imprisoned and following
rigged elections the full communist takeover of Poland
was complete by 1948. The Communist authorities took
full credit for restoring Lower Silesia and boasted of their
success rebuilding the city and incorporating it into the
Soviet system; this was typified by Wrocław’s hosting
of the propaganda parade known as the Recovered
Territories Exhibition in 1948.
By the late 1950s Wrocław had returned to its former
population level and established itself as one of Poland’s
main urban, economic, cultural and academic centres
despite being hamstrung by the political and economic
conditions of the People’s Republic of Poland. In August
of 1980, Wrocław’s workers joined the general strike
called by Gdańsk’s Solidarity Trade Union led by Lech
Wałęsa. Martial law went into effect from 1981 to 1983,
and Wrocław remained a centre of anti-Communist
opposition throughout the 80s until Communism
crumbled in 1989 and Wałęsa became Poland’s first
freely elected president since WWII. In 1990, Wrocław’s
first post Communist city council restored the city’s
historical coat of arms, symbolising the city’s acceptance
of its entire history (even the German bits). In July 1997
the city sustained the worst flooding in post-war Central
Europe when the Odra River overflowed its banks leaving
one third of the city under water. Poland joined the
European Union in 2004 and Wrocław has emerged as
one of the country’s leading cities, attracting significant
foreign investment. The city was chosen to host matches
during the 2012 European Football Championships, is
the 2016 ‘European Capital of Culture’ and will host
the World Games in 2017.

990: Piast Duke Mieszko I seizes Silesia, incorporating
it into Poland
1000: A bishopric is established on Ostrów Tumski
1163: The city becomes capital of the Duchy of Silesia
1241: Mongols devastate the city, the market square is
laid out, Germans become the dominant ethnic
1335: Silesia is incorporated into the Kingdom of
1418: The city’s guilds revolt, beheading the mayor
and six members of City Council
1453: John of Capistrano leads inquisition against
Jewish population who are executed or forced
to convert to Christianity
The Austrian Habsburg dynasty absorbs
Bohemia, including Silesia
Founding of the Jesuit Academy, today’s
Wrocław University
1741: Breslau becomes part of Prussia
1807: Napoleon captures the city and its medieval
defences are destroyed
1871: Unification of the German Empire; Breslau enters
as its third most prominent city
1913: The Centennial Hall (Hala Stulecia) is built
1933: The Nazis comes to power in Germany
Kristallnacht - Jewish synagogues torched,
homes looted and burned
1944: Festung Breslau - the city is declared a closed
fortress and prepares for Soviet bombardment
1945: Breslau capitulates on May 6th, WWII ends and
Lower Silesia becomes part of Poland
1947: Communists consolidate power after rigged
Wrocław hosts the Recovered Territories
1980: The Solidarity trade union initiates strikes across
The Polish military imposes Martial Law.
Solidarity activists are arrested and interned
1983: Martial Law lifted
1989: First free post-war elections in PL
1997: The Odra and Oława rivers overflow flooding a
third of downtown Wrocław
1999: Poland joins NATO
2004: Poland joins the EU
2010: President Lech Kaczyński and 95 other Polish
delegates die in a plane crash near Smolensk,
Wrocław hosts the Euro 2012 Football
2016: Wrocław is ‘European Capital of Culture’
January - April 2016


Culture & Events

Drawings by Józef Hałas, in Mia Art Gallery from January 9 to 23.

FOOD ART GALLERYQA‑2, ul. Księcia Witolda 1, lok.1,
tel. (+48) 885 51 54 04, Open 12:00
- 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
GALERIA AWANGARDAQB‑3, ul. Wita Stwosza 32,
tel. (+48) 71 790 25 82, Open 11:00
- 18:00, Fri 12:00 - 20:00. From March 14 open 11:00 18:00, Fri 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł,
Wed free.
Mia is a bright and modern art gallery that recently
popped up on Wrocław’s cultural map thanks to the “All
That Art!” Foundation. The exhibitions here are constantly
changing, with a new one opening every 2-3 weeks. The
gallery also aims to connect art and business by hosting
special lectures, training courses, and presentations.QF‑4,
ul. Św. Mikołaja 61-62, tel. (+48) 601 30 22 55, www. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free.
QE‑4, ul. Św. Mikołaja 54/55, tel. (+48) 71 780 49 11, Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. Admission free. U

QA‑5, ul. Piłsudskiego 64a, tel. (+48) 71 793 79 00, Box office open depending on
repertoire. Tickets 10-26zł.
16 Wrocław In Your Pocket

MULTIKINOQA‑5, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 2-4
(Arkady Wrocławskie), tel. (+48) 71 758 32 24, www. Box office open from 09:00 to 15 minutes
after the last showtime. Tickets 19-35zł.
QA‑3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 19a-21, tel. (+48) 71 786
65 66, Box office open from 09:00 to 15
minutes after last show. Tickets 13-28zł.

The National Ballet of Georgia was founded in 1945 as
the Georgian State Dance Company, a Soviet-era name
that was shed in time. The group managed to popularise
traditional Georgian dance and music at such prestigious
venues as the Met, La Scala, and the Coliseum. And now
for a mind-blowing fact for all you Doctor Who fans: it
was a performance by Sukhishvili Ballet that inspired
Terry Nation to create Daleks - apparently the longskirted female performers looked mighty robotic?QI‑4,
Centennial Hall, ul. Wystawowa 1. Event starts at
19:00. Tickets 90-180zł. Available at www.eventim.
pl and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
11:00 - 21:00).
10.04 SUNDAY
Don Quixote in ballet form? Why not. Originally
choreographed by French ballet master Marius Petipa
in 1869 (to music composed by Ludwig Minkus), this

Culture & Events
comic show has been a hit since it premiered in Russia
the same year. Now the Bolshoi Theatre is at it again,
with fresh choreography by Alexey Fadeechev.QA‑3,
Nowe Horyzonty, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 19a-21,
tel. (+48) 71 786 65 66, Event starts
at 16:45. Tickets 60zł. Box office open from 09:00 to
15 minutes after last show.


This Serbian folk band founded by guitarist Nikola
Starcevic play Balkan music with Gypsy, Latino, classical,
and pop influences; melodies that will sound even better
in the interior of Wrocław’s Stary Klasztor (Old Monastery).
QC‑3, Stary Klasztor, ul. Purkyniego 1. Concert starts
at 20:00. Tickets 25-40zł. Available at www.ticketpro.
pl and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
11:00 - 21:00).
01.02 MONDAY
English trip hop musician Tricky is returning to Poland
with a new album and a new group - both called “Tricky
presents Skilled Mechanics”. His new collaborators are DJ
Milo of The Wild Bunch and drummer Luke Harris.QC‑3,
Stary Klasztor, ul. Purkyniego 1. Concert starts at 20:00.
Tickets 85-100zł. Available at and
Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 21:00).
Portuguese - Cabo Verdean singer Carmen Souza,
considered to be Cesária Évora’s successor, will be
presenting her newest album Epistola, recorded with
bassist Theo Pascal.QC‑3, Stary Klasztor, ul. Purkyniego
1. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 45-80zł. Available at and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00
- 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).
It’s a bird! It’s a plane! It’s... Adrian Belew! Also
accompanied by drummer Eric Slick and bassist Julie
Slick in what’s known as the Adrian Belew Power Trio.
Formed in 2006, this group headed by American multiinstrumentalist and music producer Belew, who is
known for his impressionistic guitar playing and frequent
use of animal- and machine-like sounds, released
their first studio album, e, in 2009; for the most part,
though, they simply tour around the US and Europe.
QSala Koncertowa Radia Wrocław, ul. Karkonoska
10 (Krzyki). Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 109-129zł.
Available at and Empik (Rynek 50,
B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).

Paintings, sculptures, engravings, photographs and
handicrafts are exhibited in a Dutch Neo-Renaissance
building from the 19th century. Both permanent and
temporary exhibitions show precious items from the
Middle Ages to the present day from Lower Silesia,
Poland and Europe.QD‑3, Pl. Powstańców Warszawy
5, tel. (+48) 71 372 51 50, Open
10:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. From
April open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 15/10zł, children under 7 free, Sat
free for permanent exhibitions. Admission free with
a ticket from the nearby Racławice Panorama.
12.11 THURSDAY - 28.02 SUNDAY
Enjoy an exhibit revolving around seats, and their place
in the history of furniture. Learning about the evolution
of the chair, along with its related counterparts, visitors
will have the opportunity to learn and explore the
evolvement of armchairs, stools, sofas, chaise lounges
etc...Pieces have been taken from the collections of
the National Museum, which boasts one of the largest
collections of antique furniture in Poland.
14.10 WEDNESDAY - 31.01 SUNDAY
250 examples of Edo (1600-1868), Meiji (1868-1912),
and Taisho (1912-1926) period art will be on display in
Wrocław after similar exhibitions in Kraków and Warsaw.
08.12 TUESDAY - 31.01 SUNDAY
Let a collection of 18th- and 19th-century painted
German/Silesian porcelain take you on a “little tour”
around the Lower Silesian region, including Mount
Śnieżka and parts of Wrocław.

What’s going on?
January - April 2016


Culture & Events
Have you enjoyed the film scores to The Good, the Bad,
and the Ugly, Once Upon A Time in the West, The Mission
and Django Unchained? The man behind them is Italian
composer and conductor Ennio Morricone, who is credited
with writing music for over 500 films and TV shows. He can
also boast an Oscar, several Grammys, two Golden Globes,
and sixty years in the business. For this special anniversary
concert, the maestro will be conducting a orchestra and
choir totaling 200 musicians.QI‑4, Centennial Hall, ul.
Wystawowa 1, Concert
starts at 20:00. Ticket prices undecided at press time.
Cuban artists Pasion De Buena Vista are returning with their
signature brand of peppy Caribbean music that brings a
blast of island warmth to Poz. The atmosphere is like a breezy
Havana club complete with saucy dancers and Latin rhythms
- - it’s almost more like a vacation to Cuba than just a concert.
QI‑4, Wrocław Congress Center, ul. Wystawowa 1, www. Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 139199zł. Available at and Empik (Rynek 50,
B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).
Naturally, British rock requires no specific endorsement; just
mention names like The Beatles, Queen, The Rolling Stones,
Pink Floyd, U2, Led Zeppelin, Bee Gees, The Police, Depeche
Mode, Eric Clapton, Elton John, Tom Jones, Rod Stewart,
David Bowie, George Michael, Adele, or Amy Winehouse,
and you’ve got any music fan drooling. The British Rock
Symphony show will feature hits by ALL these legends
performed by talented vocalists.QSala Koncertowa Radia
Wrocław, ul. Karkonoska 10 (Krzyki). Concert starts at
20:30. Tickets 99-119zł. Available at
and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00
- 21:00).
The Frenchest of the French: this light, late-winter concert
will feature thirty songs that absolutely evoke Paris - the
greatest hits of Charles Aznavour, Jacques Brel, Edith
Piaf, Maurice Chevalier, Lucienne Boyer, Charles Trenet,
Josephine Baker, and Yves Montand.QOrbita Hall, ul.
Wejherowska 34 (Fabryczna). Concert starts at 20:00.
Tickets 90-170zł. Available at and
Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 21:00).

23.10 FRIDAY - 31.05 TUESDAY
This open, interactive space is part of Patrycja Mastej’s
“Self-service Museum” series, with seeks to deliver a multi18 Wrocław In Your Pocket

sensory experience to visitors of all ages - in hopes that it
will prepare them to intuitively understand the rest of the
Contemporary Museum exhibitions (certainly worth a try if
you usually find yourself completely lost when it comes to
contemporary art).QWrocław Contemporary Museum,
Pl. Strzegomski 2a (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 356 42 67, Open 12:00 - 20:00, Mon
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. A
​ dmission 10/5zł, family ticket
15zł. Thu free.
03.12 THURSDAY - 31.01 SUNDAY
The differences in Polish and Japanese approaches to
drawing are scrutinised in this outdoor exhibition of works
by nine Polish and nine Japanese artists, as part of the Think
Tank lab Triennial International Festival of Contemporary
Drawing.QC‑3, Architecture Museum, ul. Bernardyńska
5, tel. (+48) 71 344 82 78, Open 11:00 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.

Mexican artist Valeria Florescano explores her country’s
troubled past by creating artistic objects in wood, ceramics,
and glass - including beautiful upside-down goblets
reminiscent of frilly, traditional female attire.QA‑5, Glass
& Ceramics Gallery, Pl. Kościuszki 9/10, tel. (+48) 71 784
39 00, Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00
- 15:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
This exhibition showcases sketches and paintings created
by the late Professor Józef Hałas of the Wrocław Academy
of Fine Arts in the 1960s; the award-winning painter was
considered one of the most influential figures in modern

Culture & Events
Polish art.QF‑4, Mia Art Gallery, ul. Św. Mikołaja 61-62, tel.
(+48) 601 30 22 55, Open 12:00 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free.
15.01 FRIDAY - 29.02 MONDAY
Pola Dwurnik, daughter of renowned Polish artist Edward
Dwurnik, does drawing and painting in her two workshops
in Berlin and Warsaw. This exhibition will showcase
sketches based on real and imagined stories.QWrocław
Contemporary Museum, Pl. Strzegomski 2a (Fabryczna),
tel. (+48) 71 356 42 67, www.muzeumwspolczesne.
pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue.​
Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 15zł. Thu free.
05.02 FRIDAY - 03.05 TUESDAY
Berlin-based artist Marlena Kudlicka does sculptures kept
in a black-and-white, constructivist aesthetic, achieving
designs that look as if they are drawn on paper.QWrocław
Contemporary Museum, Pl. Strzegomski 2a (Fabryczna),
tel. (+48) 71 356 42 67, www.muzeumwspolczesne.
pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue.​
Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 15zł. Thu free.
18.03 FRIDAY - 30.05 MONDAY
In this exhibition, contemporary artists examine the
concept of silence in various contexts: as a potentiallyparadoxical entity that can’t be heard or verified, as means
of political oppression, as empty emotional space, and as
an expression of melancholy and transience.QWrocław
Contemporary Museum, Pl. Strzegomski 2a (Fabryczna),
tel. (+48) 71 356 42 67, www.muzeumwspolczesne.
pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue.​
Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 15zł. Thu free.

Get ready to be put in a trance at the Centennial Hall. The
line-up includes Markus Schulz, Mark Sixma, Mark Sherry,
Photographer, Matt Bukovski, DJ ALEX, onTune, DJ Kros, and
DJ Smart.QI‑4, Centennial Hall, ul. Wystawowa 1. Event
starts at 19:00. Tickets 79zł. Available at www.ticketpro.
pl and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
11:00 - 21:00).
08.04 FRIDAY - 16.04 SATURDAY
It’s the 30th anniversary of the “New Polish Music” festival!
This year’s line-up includes Cellonet, defunensemble,
LUX:NM, Musiques Nouvelles, {oh!} Historical Orchestra,
the National Forum of Music Symphonic Orchestra, and the
New Music Orchestra.QA‑4, National Forum of Music, Pl.
Wolności 1, tel. (+48) 71 342 20 01, www.nfm.wroclaw.
pl. Ticket prices undecided at press time.

January - April 2016


Culture & Events





26.04 TUESDAY - 28.04 THURSDAY
It’s clarinet mania at this aptly-named music festival that
seeks to both promote young musicians and host worldrenowned guests. This year’s big star will be Paul Meyer
performing with the Meccore String Quartet; other guests
include Guy Dangain, Alessandro Carbonare, Philippe
Berrod, Justo Sanz, Florent Héau, and Shirley Brill.Qwww. Full schedule undecided at press time.
26.04 TUESDAY - 30.04 SATURDAY
Ah, jazz festivals - where would Poland be without them?
They might be mushrooming all over the place, but Jazz
on the Oder stands out among them as one of the oldest
and most respected, right up there with Warsaw’s Jazz
Jamboree and Kraków’s All Saints’ Day Jazz Festival. It was
founded back in the sixties, and for a long time provided
one of the best shots young musicians had at early fame
and recognition. This is the fifty-second edition. See the
website for the full
Ticket prices undecided at press time.

24.01 SUNDAY
Like a true modern Renaissance man, Henry Rollins pops
up in almost too many places - be it on Jackass, MTV’s
20 Wrocław In Your Pocket

120 Minutes, his self-named talk show, on the set of Sons
of Anarchy, as author of columns written for LA Weekly
and Rolling Stone Australia, on a plane as a potential
terrorist (remember never to take books about the history
of militant Islam onboard), or on the stage as a successful
musician and activist. The former Black Flag frontman is
currently on another one of his “spoken word” tours, titled
The Charmingly Obstinate Tour.QSala Koncertowa Radia
Wrocław, ul. Karkonoska 10 (Krzyki). Event starts at 18:00.
Tickets 85-95zł. Available at and Empik
(Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).
04.02 THURSDAY - 07.02 SUNDAY
As a dreary Polish February rolls around, fiery Cuban
rhythms will warm things up for Vratislavians and visitors
during this year’s Carnaval Cubano. With dance and music
workshops, lectures, and culinary presentations during
the day and dance parties lasting long into the night,
this is a festival that will get everyone moving.Qwww. Tickets 20-150zł, festival pass 150400zł. Available at
17.04 SUNDAY - 25.04 MONDAY
Strict time constraints sometimes bring out the most
creative side of people - no time to second-guess, in any
case. Both amateurs and professionals are invited to take
part in this whirlwind weekend of filming and submit their
creations to the jury for a chance to be screened at the
Cannes Festival Short Film
The entire city will be alive with the sounds of jazz from morning
until night; the main venues include the Centennial Hall, the
National Music Forum, the Main Square, and Capitol Theatre. This
year’s guest of honor will be Polish jazz vocalist Urszula Dudziak.
Every Sunday join the fun at the Bazar Smakoszy, to enjoy
gourmet foods both locally and regionally sourced; as well
as, appearances of deliciousness from within Poland and
internationally. Expect everything and anything related to
food!QG‑6, Browar Mieszczański, ul. Hubska 44. Open
10:00 - 16:00.

10.01 SUNDAY
It’s that time of year again - the day when literally every single
person you encounter on the street will be sporting a red heart
sticker (and those who don’t will be endlessly harassed by
unnaturally cheerful people with collection boxes). What are
they for? They’re proof that you donated to the Christmas Charity
to purchase medical equipment for children and seniors in need.
A great cause, surely; the day will be wrapped up with a concert
and fireworks.QB‑3, Pl. Nowy Targ,

Culture & Events


15.01 FRIDAY - 31.01 SUNDAY
Yes, Poland is hosting the European Handball
Championship in 2016, and Wrocław will see group C
teams (Spain, Germany, Sweden, and Slovenia) fighting to
advance to the next stage. Match days are Jan 16th, 18th,
and 20th (preliminaries); Jan 22nd, 24th, 26th, and 27th
(main round), and Jan 29th (finals - placement matches 5
to 8).QI‑4, Centennial Hall, ul. Wystawowa 1, pol2016. Ticket prices undecided at press time.
Available at and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3;
open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).

What’s going on?
06.03 SUNDAY
Simple 10K run around the Millennial Park (Park Tysiąclecia)
to warm you up on an early-March day. Make the
podium and you’ll be rewarded with a trophy and some
pocket change.QPark Tysiąclecia (Fabryczna), www. Event starts at 11:00. Registration fee

© Marek Grotowski

10.04 SUNDAY
If you’re planning on visiting the opera during your stay in
Poland, we recommend going for something authentically
Polish - in this case, Halka, an 1848 opera by composer
Stanisław Moniuszko, with a libretto by poet Włodzimierz
Wolski. A tale about the tragic love of highlander girl
Halka’s love for noble-born Janusz, it depicts scenes of
19th-century Polish highlanders and nobility.QA‑4,
Wrocław Opera, ul. Świdnicka 35, tel. (+48) 71 370
88 80, Event starts at 17:00.
Tickets 30-110zł. Available at Wrocław Opera box office
(Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00).

Step (metaphorically) into modern-day Mumbai with this
National Theatre staging of Behind the Beautiful Forevers,
a play by English playwright and screenwriter David
Hare, based on the 2012 non-fiction book by Katherine
Boo. Directed by Rufus Norris, starring Sartaj Garewal, Tia
Palamathanan, Stephanie Street, Hiran Abeysekera, and
Vincent Ebrahim. Shown live on the big screen.QA‑3,
Nowe Horyzonty, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 19a-21, tel.
(+48) 71 786 65 66, Spectacle starts at
18:00. Tickets 40/30zł. Box office open from 09:00 to 15
minutes after last show.
In true 21st-century fashion, Shakespeare will be
transmitted live from London in HD quality. This version of
the Bard’s romantic comedy in five acts, directed by Polly
Findlay, will star Rosalie Craig, Jonathan Dryden Taylor,
and Patsy Ferran. Keep in mind that the performance
will last an entire four hours!QA‑3, Nowe Horyzonty,
ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 19a-21, tel. (+48) 71 786 65
66, Spectacle starts at 19:45. Tickets
40/30zł. Box office open from 09:00 to 15 minutes after
last show.

January - April 2016



Fall down the rabbit hole of urban art and creative cuisine at Czary Mary (p.27).

The diversity and quality of restaurants in Wrocław is ever
improving - as is the quality of service - and the city’s
respectable number of international restaurants reflects its
status as a thriving urban centre. While In Your Pocket once
tried to list every eatery in the city centre, the expansion
of the market and sheer redundancy of many restaurants
now make that pursuit impractical. In our dining section
you’ll find reviews of the most noteworthy and high-profile
establishments in town, from those well-hidden places you
shouldn’t miss, to prime locations you should swerve. While
our print guide carries a large selection of restaurants, if you
can’t find it here you’ll most certainly find it on our website
(wrocł, where we list dozens more
reviews and encourage you to leave your own comments
about the places you’ve visited.
All IYP reviews are completely subjective, unsolicited and
updated regularly to ensure accuracy at press time. The
figures we quote in brackets represent the least and most
expensive main courses on the menu. The hours we list are
not necessarily the opening hours, but rather the times
between which you can expect the chef to be working.
Below are some specific recommendations depending on
what you might be looking for. Smacznego!
By common consent JaDka remains Wrocław’s best Polish
restaurant, while Le Bistrot Parisien (French), Brasserie
27, and relative newcomers Food Art Gallery and
Sukiennice 7 (all International) round out the city’s top 5
(in our esteem, anyway). For fine dining in an unforgettable
location head to the Monopol’s rooftop Restauracja
Acquario (International).
22 Wrocław In Your Pocket

Wrocław is full of cheap eats. Try BLT & Flatbreads
(American), and see our Quick Eats section (p.26) for local
highlights like Las, and Patelnia. If it’s Polish you’re after,
head to Chatka Przy Jatkach or Konspira, and later on hit
any Polish Snacks & Shots bar (p.49) for a late night refuel.
Bernard (International) offers litre steins of Czech beer
and plates piled high with hot snacks for sharing, while
the costumed gents of Pod Fredra (Polish) will keep you
plied with beer and brats until you burst your buttons.
Alternatively, head to The Winners Pub (p.49) for precision
steaks with a view of the match.
See our picks under ‘Splurge,’ all of which will impress with
their high quality food, go for dinner and a concert at
Vertigo (International), or wine and dine on the water in
OK Wine Bar (International).
Kids get a kick out of dining on the water in Barka Tumska
(International), where they get their own menu and play
area. Alternatively, have fun watching them search for the
‘secret room’ in Konspira (Polish). For further options look
for the Child-friendly symbol T at the end of each listing.
Vegans have it good in Wrocław, just see our Vegetarian
section (p.40). Vega is right on the market square, raw
foodies have Machina Organika, and fine gluten-free
dining can be found in La Maddalena (Mediterranean).

G No smoking

T Child-friendly

6 Animal friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

B Outside seating

U Facilities for the disabled

S Take away

X Smoking room available

V Home delivery

W Wi-fi connection

Get to know the original and chic
character of French cuisine

E Live music

This upscale American-inspired (free ketchup without
asking! large sodas!) sandwich and salad bar deftly
balances a somewhat grimy dive-bar location (that’s a
good thing) with a sharp, clean, high-ceilinged interior
to great effect. The menu would hardly be inventive if not
for the fact that a decent sandwich is a rare thing in this
country; as such it’s a revelation. Choose from a wide range
of quickly-served variations on the burger, BLT and taco.
The pizzas are delicious, the salads served on flatbread are
creative, the presentation is top notch and the prices are
fair and affordable across the board. Open late, so you’ve
got time to get a couple cheeky ones in with the crowd
stumbling past the window before stopping by, or just do
your drinking here.QA‑3, ul. Ruska 58/59, tel. (+48) 71
796 33 44, Open 10:00 - 22:00, Thu
10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
(19-28zł). G­S­W
Like most things from New Zealand, Moaburger is very
proud, making it clear from the kiwi iconography all over
the interior that this is a NZ take on the classic American
burger and shake shack. As far as the food goes, they’ve
certainly super-sized it: burgers come served on a tray (a
plate just wouldn’t do) piled high with the topping of your
choice, and you might even consider splitting one with a
friend if you have any other meals planned later in the day.
Easy to eat and darn enjoyable, though you’ll discover it’s
not exactly the cheapest meal out, with a burger, fries, and
drink coming in over 30zł.QA‑3, Pl. Solny 10, tel. (+48)
71 330 74 82, Open 11:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (11-28zł). T­6­G­S­W
Hardly the kitsch cowboy cuisine you might expect from
the name, this steakhouse maintains the high standards
of Galeria Italiano - Wrocław’s modern restaurant corridor.
Burgers are sequestered to only a brief requisite mention
at the end of the placemat menu, which is primarily a
range of steaks including T-bone, porterhouse and ribeye, prepared in the open kitchen in the corner. Our roast
beef was commendable, but if you want your meat other

ul. Nożownicza 1D
071- 341-05-65

Since one of the main things you’re likely to be doing
while in town is eating, here are a few words you’re
likely to encounter on any menu in town. Smacznego!
(Enjoy your meal!)
śniadania breakfast
zupa soup
przystawki appetisers
dania główne
main dishes
side dishes
ziemniaki potatoes
kapusta cabbage
ser cheese
chleb bread
warzywa vegetables
owoce fruit
mięso meat
kurczak chicken
wieprzowina pork
wołowina beef
ryba fish
deser dessert
ciasto cake
ice cream
napoje drinks
kawa coffee
piwo beer
January - April 2016


than medium rare, make sure you say so (no one asked us).
An excellent beer list includes Svyturys Baltas, La Trappe,
Bishop’s Finger, Opat and others specifically selected to
complement steak. The simple, airy interior is neither too
classy nor too casual and has a friendly family atmosphere
that keeps its tables as full as its patrons.QA‑2, ul.
Więzienna 21 (Galeria Italiana), tel. (+48) 71 343 20 71.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. (14-99zł). 6­G­S­W
A wide and nuanced assortment of delicious gourmet
burgers on the market square, including the guac- and
nacho-loaded chipotle burger, a chorizo burger, beet
burger, salmon burger and more. Couples can order the
mini-burger set for 52zł, or plonk down with your friends
for a platter of worldly whiskies. There’s also a wide array of
mojitos and beer cocktails, and seating opposite the Town
Hall, or in the sharp interior. When we’re going through
cheddar cheese withdrawal, this is our sanatorium; in
fact, it’s hard to over-praise this place - it’s just that good.
QA‑3, ul. Rynek 20/21, tel. (+48) 516 01 51 65, www. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Mon, Sun
11:00 - 21:30, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (27-83zł). T­U­
Though elusively located, the word is definitely out on
the cleverly-named Sztrass Burger, which stays packed
all afternoon with students, hipsters and families alike,
eager to get their mouths around Wrocław’s tastiest
burgers. The menu is curt and creative; be bold and try
a ‘Karolburger’ whose patty is a mix of beef, anchovies,
blue cheese and chives, and comes topped with
arugula, caramelised pear with ginger, and a pepperlemon sauce. Burgers conveniently come in two sizes
for varying appetites, vegetarians have some killers
options as well, and don’t miss the sweet potato fries.
With a simple interior free of the feeble attempts to be
American that other burger places make, this is pure
Wrocław; bear in mind, however, that you may have to
wait not only for your food, but also a table.QA‑3, ul.
Psie Budy 7/9, tel. (+48) 503 93 79 87. Open 12:00
- 20:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 21:00. (15-22zł). 6­U­GS
­ ­

One of our local favourites for a long time running, this
casual modern bistro openly pays homage to Paris with
framed period photography, fine wines and a lunch menu
redolent of dining in the French capital. The food - from
the steak in Roquefort sauce to the fresh mussels and
creme brulee - is of exceptional quality across the board,
making the relaxed atmosphere all the more refreshing.
A perfect place for convincing your company that you
have good taste, Le Bistrot is a popular congregation point
for ex-pats as well. The staff are very friendly, flirty and
accommodating, and therefore in no way reminiscent of
24 Wrocław In Your Pocket

the eating out experiences we’ve had in the real Paris. We’d
rather be here.QA‑2, ul. Nożownicza 1d, tel. (+48) 71 341
05 65, Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri
12:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (2959zł). G­S­W

Wrocław has a surprisingly sizable Greek population,
which explains the number of upscale Greek restaurants
right around the Rynek, Akropolis foremost among them.
No breezy seaside villa decor here - Akropolis is all dark
wood, wine-warm elegance almost compelling you to buy
an obligatory bottle of red. The atmosphere is a bit of a
throwback and has a certain Cosa Nostra appeal, with welldressed patrons wining and dining their dames in what is
still one of the best ethnic restaurants in the region. The
menu of seafood and Greek meats from the grill hits the
mark - we ordered lamb and were not disappointed.QA‑3,
Rynek 16/17, tel. (+48) 71 343 14 13, www.akropolis. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (2060zł). G­S­W

Well-positioned just off the market square, Masala does
traditional Indian food in a more contemporary European
style as Indian chefs work in plain view behind two long
bars in the offbeat granite grey interior full of comical,
conical hanging lamps, pop art elephants and colourful
seat cushions. The 22-35zł Express Lunch (served 12:00
- 15:30, Mon-Fri ) fills the seats and represents not only
a great bargain, but a great deal of delicious food. The
regular menu hits all the marks and portions are larger
than most places, earning our earnest recommendation.
For those travelling with little ones, note that a babysitter
is on hand 12:00 - 18:00 on weekends.QB‑3, ul. Kuźnicza
3, tel. (+48) 71 302 69 49, Open
12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (30-70zł).

The flagship restaurant of Wrocław’s Radisson Hotel, and
famed for its immaculate breakfast buffet (Mon - Fri 06:30
- 10:30; Sat, Sun 06:30 - 11:00). Elegant and extremely
professional, ala carte diners can choose from a diverse
menu of dishes ranging from the pricey but proven veal
tenderloin, to fish and pasta, and will notice a good
selection of cheap, simple kids’ dishes (all priced around
20zł): a rarity in Poland. A seasonal courtyard terrace
complete with lawn is also an added bonus for families
searching for somewhere to eat.QC‑3, ul. Purkyniego 10
(Radisson Blu Hotel Wroclaw), tel. (+48) 71 375 00 00, Open 06:30 23:00. (24-95zł). T­U­G­W

January - April 2016


For more fast dining options, get away from the fast
food franchises and get adventurous by visiting a milk
bar (p.40), Polish Snacks & Shots Bar (p.49), or one of
the fantastic local institutions listed below.

Enjoy a taste of traditional
greek food & Excellent wines


Building off the runaway success of their soup kitchen
at ul. Szewska 24/26 (B-3), Zupa has opened a second,
more proper location to purvey their delicious soups
- this one featuring more tables, an expanded (but
concise) menu of entrees, and open later. Dubbed
‘Las’ (Forest), the interior offers plenty of nice design
touches and a mezzanine, but the space is somewhat
poorly organised, and its popularity means it can be
just as packed as the original location. It’s not hard
to understand why - the food is cheap and delicious,
and there’s a certain camaraderie between the clients
and staff that makes you feel like you’re supporting
your friends just by being here. Note that the soups (5
veggie, 5 with meat) are served till they run out and
after 17:30 they are half price. Recommended.QA‑3,
ul. Igielna 14, tel. (+48) 733 87 33 07, www.zupa. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Fri 09:00 - 23:00, Sat
12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (4-20zł). 6­GS
­ ­
One of our favourite spots in Wrocław, this tiny food
hatch next to Kalambur purveys fine fast food at
fabulously affordable prices. For winter they’ve basically
changed everything and are now focussed on soup
- namely steaming bowls of Asian noodles and veg.
Choose between 350 or 800ml(!) of ramen, udon or sen
mee noodles with the veggie and meat components of
your choice (pork, tofu, dumplings, shrimp), select your
spice quotient, grab your chopsticks and go. Screw
table service, this is gourmet street food that you’ll love,
and it’s open late on weekends.QB‑3, ul. Kuźnicza
29A. Open 11:00 - 17:00. (8-18zł). G­S

The most popular
greek restaurant
located on Main Square
Rynek 16/17

reservation (+48) 71/343 14 13
26 Wrocław In Your Pocket

The ‘Z’s stand for ‘zupa’ (soup) and ‘zapiekanki’ - a filling
Polish fast food specialty that is essentially the bottom
half of a baguette with mushrooms, cheese and the
additional toppings of your choice. This is definitely
the place to try one, as the bread and other ingredients
are actually fresh, not frozen (sadly, this is not the norm
elsewhere). As for the soups, they change daily and
can be ordered in 3 sizes; during our visit spicy chilli,
apple-onion, split pea, and bean-bacon were on offer.
Wrocław’s fast food culture is steadily improving, and
this is one of the places leading the charge.QA‑3, ul.
Kazimierza Wielkiego 25/1A, tel. (+48) 518 29 42 74.
Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.

Nestled between the proliferation of islands and bridges
just near Ostrów Tumski, this fantastic river barge offers five
unique dining spaces over three levels, including the Captain’s
mess and (in spring and summer only) the outstanding upper
deck - ideal for taking in the sights and sunshine. The diverse
menu of breakfast eats (served all day from 09:00), budget
sandwiches and seasonal Mediterranean-inspired cuisine
(the menu changes every 3 months or so) makes Barka ideal
for brunch, stowing away with a hot date, or bringing the
entire family: kids get their own menu and play area and will
love exploring the corridors of this unique river diner.QC‑1,
ul. Wyspa Słodowa 10, tel. (+48) 71 322 60 77, Open 09:00 - 22:00. (25-38zł). T­U­G
We’ll go along with the crowd and admit that this trendy
brewery/restaurant is one of the most alluring locales on the
market square. A stylish, airy, three-level interior with a long
inviting bar, Bernard is characterised by closely arranged tables
which don’t offer any privacy but contribute to the casual
atmosphere where the menu is your placemat and it’s perfectly
acceptable to just enjoy a drink without eating. To that end, they
have their own beer in dark and light, as well as bottled choices
including a decent amber and four alcky-free flavours which we
wouldn’t know anything about; enjoy their draughts in glasses
growing from 0.4 to 2 litres. The food is nothing to overlook with
a menu ranging from nachos to Polish classics like golonka and
the upper level tables in the window are a great place to take
your date, but reserve ahead.QB‑3, Rynek 35, tel. (+48) 71 344
10 54, Open 10:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
10:30 - 23:30. (31-89zł). T­6­U­E­G­S­W
Fancy and indeed flavoursome, this place is owned by the hotel
Europeum but worthy of its separate entrance. A mega modern,
glass fronted appearance is complemented by designer hanging
lights and dark woods. The reassuringly short menu starts with
Italian and spans steak and also fish dishes, staying mostly within
the bounds of Mediterranean cuisine. Friendly service and an
award winning chef make this one of the better places in the city
to eat.QA‑3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27a (Europeum Hotel),
tel. (+48) 71 371 44 71, Open 07:00 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00. (30-72zł). U­G­S­W
Inside the new Ibis Styles hotel, the design of this charming
restaurant is modern and somewhat minimal, enhanced by
high contrast colours, floor to ceiling windows looking onto
the train station across the street, and - most of all - delightful
Alice in Wonderland murals by local artist Szur Szur. The
service is classy and the menu is a concise list of beautifully
presented entrees that combine unique flavours into creative
creations. For such a seemingly casual, almost whimsical,
environment, this is surprisingly upscale dining, and a great
choice for planning meetings or a meal immediately upon
arrival by train.QC‑5, Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, tel. (+48) 71
733 48 20, Open 12:00 23:00. (24-74zł). T­U­G­S­W

January - April 2016


This health-minded and socially conscious slow food eatery
turns out popular whole-meal pizzas and delicious dinners
that differ each day, depending on the season. Though not
strictly vegetarian, caveman diet deniers will have plenty
to choose from, and there’s always at least one vegan and
gluten-free entree. In accordance with the name, good
vibes abound, and you’re likely to find it packed with
students, young families and hipsters from the Nadodrze
neighbourhood.QA‑1, ul. Cybulskiego 17, tel. (+48) 517
65 67 50. Open 12:00 - 21:00. (18-30zł). T­6­G­S­W

Perfect location
Polish and international cuisine

Aquarelle Restaurant
Purkyniego 10, Wrocław
Phone: 71 375 00 00

Plenty of restaurants use their wall space for ‘promoting
young artists,’ but Food Art Gallery’s high-art earnestness
ensures that this sophisticated contemporary art gallery is
also one of the most exclusive restaurants in town. Though
the simple and refined decor aims to keep your attention
on the painted canvas above your table, the artists probably
feel upstaged by head chef Mariusz Kozak’s outstanding
presentation of mouth-watering dishes like pan-fried
monkfish ragout with mussels, leeks, potatoes and chives.
The food is both minimal and imaginative, with overriding local and French influences, and the wine list and
service are unimpeachable, earning Food Art Gallery two
hats in the first Polish edition of Gault & Millau. Located
in a modern apartment complex on the Oder with two
seasonal terraces, FAG is the perfect place for impressing
and conveying seriousness to potential partners, be they
in business or bedroom matters.QA‑2, ul. Księcia Witolda
1, lok.1, tel. (+48) 885 51 54 04,
Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. (3689zł). T­6­E­G­W
One of the hippest looking locales on ul. Więzienna thanks
to the beach chairs all over the pedestrianised street
in summer, this small locale is a fashionable tapas and
cocktail destination, offering daily lunch specials, finger
foods, salads and mixed drink pitchers for the committed.
The chefs certainly know what they’re doing, as do the bar
staff who have invented several signature cocktails anyone
would be proud of. With few tables inside the slick interior,
most of the space is outside in nice weather, and this is
the perfect place to people-watch and be seen while also
getting off the market square. Note that the opening hours
we list are for the kitchen, but the bar at Le Chef stays open
later.QB‑2, ul. Więzienna 31, tel. (+48) 667 45 85 09.
Open 07:00 - 22:00, Fri 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00,
Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (10-49zł). T­6­U­G­S­W

ul. Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, Wrocław
Phone: +48 71 733 48 20
28 Wrocław In Your Pocket

One of the few places you’ll actually find anything to
eat if you’re strolling Ostrów Tumski, Lwia Brama offers
some great sidewalk seating in the warmer months from
which you can enjoy a drink or a meal while waiting for
the lamplighter to come round and perform that most
romantic of Wrocław rituals - the daily lighting of the
district’s gaslamps. In winter the historic underground

cellars aren’t as cold and sprawling as you might expect,
and they also serve as a gallery for local artists (all paintings
are for sale). The menu here sticks to Polish and European
standards, with some dishes prepared in the sous-vide
method.QC‑2, ul. Katedralna 9, tel. (+48) 880 00 27 42, Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
(26-69zł). G­S­W
Seafood and pasta on Wroclaw’s mini-marina, with a small
terrace offering views over the canal. They’ve re-styled the
interior into more of an upscale bar/lounge and the outdoor
garden area is great in the evening for pleasant views and
quiet conversation plus a new exclusive VIP room. If the
weather is too chilly head inside for a cosy cocktail and pay
close attention to their wine list as bottles are available for
take away as well.QB‑2, ul. Księcia Witolda 2, tel. (+48)
502 13 08 93, Open 12:00 - 23:00.
(33-80zł). T­6­U­G­S­W
Another hip addition to the ever-improving Nadodrze
district, this is a modernly-decorated cafe-resto-bar combo
serving AeroPress coffee, wine, draught beer, a bunch of
good lunch options (including fish, pasta, burgers, and
steak), and even breakfast pancakes and eggs. If you’re
feeling whimsical, sit on one of three swings hanging near
the front window and wave to random passers-by.QB‑1,
ul. Drobnera 26a, tel. (+48) 885 02 03 03. Open 10:00
- 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. (20-49zł). T­6­U­G­
Full to the brim during lunchtime, this cosy and friendly
hole-in-the-wall restaurant offers ever-changing vegetarian and omnivore meals of the day, plus delicious coffee
and cake. The open kitchen lets you sneak a peek at food
prep, and the layout (long table + windowside counter
seating) compels you to get friendly with fellow diners. If
you’re thirsty, grab a glass and fill it up with water from the
conveniently located tap - Od Koochni is taking part in an
initiative to popularise the consumption of Wrocław’s safe
and clean municipal water (and it’s one of the only Polish food establishments where you don’t have to pay for
your H2O).QG‑3, ul. Oleśnicka 7A, tel. (+48) 603 88 63
98, Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 18:00. Closed Sun. (22-29zł). T­G­S
Elegant, glitzy, and now located right on the waterfront,
OK Wine Bar has used an address change to emphatically
establish themselves as one of the city’s most refined
destinations for business and romance. The decor is white,
bright and modern, with floor-to-ceiling windows letting in
lots of natural light by day, and an intoxicating city shimmer
after dark. The seasonal menu emphasises local products
and includes hors d’oeuvres and a daily three-course lunch
from 12:00-16:00 for 36zł (or limit it to two courses for 29zł).

dining venue

business meeting spot

set lunch menu
(12:00 - 16:00)

OK Wine Bar
Wine Bar / restaurant / shOp
Wrocław, ul.Księcia Witolda 1
tel. 71 714 21 26 |

January - April 2016


Like the menu, the wine list is surprisingly short but
resoundingly robust (with glasses beginning from 10zł), but
OK also operates as a shop with over 2000 world vintages
you can take home.QB‑3, ul. Księcia Witolda 1, tel. (+48)
71 714 21 26, Open 12:00 - 22:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (40-90zł). 6­U­E­G­X­W
​Be it a lazy Saturday morning or a gentle ease into a busy
work day, Pochlebna is a good breakfast option (served
until 12:00, weekends 13:00), offering fresh-out-of-theoven baked goods, a selection of homemade spreads,
organic eggs, French toast, and tasty coffee in a bright
and modern two-level interior. Traditionally-baked breads
and pastries are the specialty here, but also indulge in
a selection of health-minded soups, salads, and main
courses throughout the day, not to mention all the
delicious desserts and wine. From the same team behind
the excellent Szynkarnia next door, these two venues are
teaming up to bring some much needed manners to Pasaż
Niepolda.QA‑3, ul. Św. Antoniego 15, tel. (+48) 733 03
50 81. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (1833zł). T­6­U­G­S­W

Can’t find it here?
150+ restaurant reviews online:
Long known as a default Wrocław drinker, it shouldn’t be
forgotten that ‘the Pod’ - in the plummest of plum locations
on the Rynek - serves up some rather good food too. Take
advantage of the three-course 28zł lunch menu, served
Mon-Fri until 17:00, or wait until evening when the terrific
pork steaks will set you up very nicely for a night of cocktails
and live music inside this classy tourist-friendly venue full
of classic movie memorabilia.QA‑3, ul. Sukiennice 9a, tel.
(+48) 71 343 92 75, Open
12:00 - 24:00, Mon 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun
13:00 - 23:00. (36-80zł). T­E­G­S­W
Decked with tall blonde wood chairs and tables and
decorated with old nautical illustrations and knot-tying
charts, Przystań nonetheless remains thoroughly modern
matching the design of the well-placed new building
it occupies. Across the river from the main university
building, the real reason to dock in this harbour is the
deck seating over the water which offers great views and
actually feels like you’re on a boat. The concise menu offers
pastas, risottos and gorgeous salads - including the very
brave chicken liver salad with apple, avocado, orange and
parmesan.QA‑2, ul. Księcia Witolda 2, tel. (+48) 502 13
08 93, Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat
10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (30-78zł). T­U­G­
30 Wrocław In Your Pocket

Due to space restrictions in our print guide, we’re
actually only able to publish a fraction of all the excellent
content we have on Wrocław and the surrounding
region, not to mention all of Poland. Visit our website
- - to see just how much
of the country we cover, and to download guides to
Warsaw, Kraków, Gdańsk, Poznań, Katowice and
other cities you might be travelling to. Below is a small
sampling of great Wrocław-related content we didn’t
have room for this issue, with links to where you’ll find
it online. Thanks for reading In Your Pocket!
Located 65km from Wrocław,
the small village of GrossRosen (today Rogoźnice) was
the site of one of the largest
concentration camps in the
Third Reich, famous even
then for its harsh conditions
and high mortality rate.
Today the site is a museum and memorial to the
victims; learn more here:
In the city’s early Bohemian days, a quibble between
the Church and City Council over beer sales blew up
into a Chicago gangland-style turf war, with absurd
and disastrous results: Ostrów Tumski burned,
the mayor was lynched, and beheadings were
rife. Learn the bizarre and fascinating story of the
Vretslav Beer War:
Born in Breslau/Wrocław,
Manfred von Richthofen
was the top fighter pilot in
the aerial dogfights of ‘The
Great War.’ A legend in his
own time, he was awarded
Germany’s greatest military
honour after his 16th kill
en route to upwards of 75, and his death remains
controversial. Learn more in our feature:
In 1944 Hitler declared Breslau a ‘closed military fortress’
to be defended from the advancing Soviet army at
all costs. The ensuing siege lasted for 80 days, cost
thousands of lives and left the city a smouldering heap
of ruins. IYP tells the full story, including where to see
traces of wartime Breslau in Wrocław today:

January - April 2016


The upscale restaurant on the rooftop terrace of the legendary
Hotel Monopol, Acquario offers an enticing, eclectic menu
with a special flair for seafood and innovative tasting menus
with 3, 5, 7 or 9 dishes to choose from. If you’re anything like
us, however, you’ll be just as interested in the world-class wine
list. There’s really no better way to relax than with a bottle of
red enjoying the fabulous views over Wrocław through rosetinted glasses.QA‑4, ul. Modrzejewskiej 2 (Monopol Hotel),
tel. (+48) 71 772 37 80,
pl. Open 18:00 - 23:00. 3 dishes (120zł), 5 (150zł), 7 (210zł)
and 9 (290zł). U­G­W

Fusion Cuisine • Wine • Coffee
Fresh Breads, Cakes & Cookies
Św. Antoniego 15, Wrocław
# Pochlebna

This newly renovated restaurant on the ground floor of the
Hotel Europejski has gone through a similar rebirth. The
classic environs are highlighted by the same inviting orange
and warm wood tones of the hotel which match the modern
Polish and transcontinental European menu perfectly. The
mix of classic dishes transcends the usual Hotel Restaurant
fare and the presentation and service is truly exceptional.
Even if you’re not a guest we suggest stopping in for their
comprehensive breakfast buffet (06:30-10:00) - a great way
to start any day.QB‑5, ul. Piłsudskiego 88 (Europejski
Hotel), tel. (+48) 509 35 67 92, www.europejskiwroclaw.
pl. Open 06:30 - 21:00. (12-59zł). T­U­G­S­W
An absolutely excellent restaurant, well worth visiting
whether you’re staying in the upstairs hotel or not; in fact
walk-ins would be wise to take advantage of the business
lunch (served Mon-Fri, 12:00-16:00), which offers a
delicious meal that shows off the skill and craft of the chef
and is worth much more than the 28zł you pay. Choose
between two dining areas - the bright, open building
atrium, or the more elegant burgundy and black dining
room with arm chairs and creative glass chandeliers adding
a bit of class. Also they now offer gluten free dishes and a
kids menu. Recommended.QA‑3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24-25,
tel. (+48) 71 375 04 17, Open
06:45 - 22:30. (30-100zł). T­U­G­W
Though rebuilt after the war, this former Dominican convent
dates back to the early 14th century and was previously the
site of a very upscale restaurant - a fact which hints at the
‘wow’ factor of its interior. Full of gorgeous architectural
details and high arching ceilings, it’s a bit like dining in a
cathedral, but don’t be mistaken - you won’t be cloistered off
from society here. Aimed at Wrocław’s student population,
there’s an eclectic concert schedule with live music three
nights a week on average in the gothic cellars (check their
FB page for details), and a large year-round beer garden. On
top of that, the full menu of European eats is quite good
and the beer selection is great. If you’re really pinching
pennies, the attached Bistro Nowy Targ is super cheap.
Worth investigating for eats, drinks and hijinks.QC‑3, ul.
Purkyniego 1, tel. (+48) 519 89 47 69, www.staryklasztor. Open 13:00 - 01:00. (20-89zł). 6­E­G­S­W

32 Wrocław In Your Pocket

Certainly one of the most elegant, upscale dining
establishments to open in Wrocław in some time,
Sukiennice 7 offers an outstanding menu of modern Polish
and Mediterranean culinary creations served on slabs of
slate or thinly-sliced tree trunks. A certain theatricality
exists here as the chefs in their funny hats put on a show
in the open kitchen (surrounded by a long bar), and the
waitresses scurry about wearing in something akin to folk
costumes, while a pianist plays in the evening - during
which time you can expect this place to be packed despite
the ample size of the modern interior. A great place for
large group reservations, keep costs down Mon-Fri 12:00
- 16:00 with their lunch specials.QA‑3, ul. Sukiennice 7,
tel. (+48) 71 342 74 56, Open 12:00
- 24:00. (26-69zł). T­U­G­B­S­W
How about dinner and a concert? Head to the best jazz venue
in the region for a sophisticated evening of rhythmic music,
killer cocktails (none of which are called ‘Hot Sax’) and a range
of modern fusion-influenced European dishes, like duck breast
marinated in fresh thyme and red pepper with blackberry
sauce and grilled pear - whoa, Daddio. Concerts are WedSun beginning at 20:00, during which time reservations are
recommended.QB‑3, ul. Oławska 13, tel. (+48) 71 335 21
29, Open 16:00 - 24:00; Fri, Sat 17:00 01:00. Closed Mon. (22-45zł). U­E­G­W
Within walking distance of the Zoo, the restaurant of the
Wodnik Hotel certainly isn’t a bad option in an area where
choices are limited (and therefore crowded). In keeping
with the nautical theme of the hotel, the emphasis here is
on fresh fish, which they prepare in their own smokehouse
and enhance with herbs from their own garden. Enjoy
tempting dishes like salmon teriyaki or the exotic halibut
lasagna with mussels, shrimp, marinara sauce, capers
and zucchini in the white-scrubbed interior or sunny
seasonal terrace. Get there by taxi, or by walking across the
Zwierzyniecka Footbridge from the south side of the Zoo
(I-5).QH‑5, ul. Na Grobli 28 (Wodnik Hotel), tel. (+48) 71
343 36 67, Open 12:00 - 22:00.
(42-68zł). T­6­G­W

Found inside the Galeria Italia complex the style here is
clear and simple, with visual distractions essentially limited
to the streetside views and the theatrics of other diners.
Choose from an ambitious range of Italian dishes, with the
real emphasis placed on spaghetti, while the proprietors’
Italian origins are unmistakable in their influence on the
end product. Prices remain pegged at sensible levels,
providing prospective diners with all the more reason to
visit.QB‑2, ul. Więzienna 21 (Galeria Italiana), tel. (+48)
71 343 20 71, Open 12:00 - 24:00.
(11-120zł). T­6­G­S­W

January - April 2016


This new intimate Italian restaurant oozes authenticity,
but you don’t need us to tell you that - your nose knows
best. Although it’s official name is La Dolce Vita, locals
refer to it as Giovanni’s Place - after the charismatic
owner and head chef. He has a lot of specialties, but
his thin crust pizza with a wide range of fresh imported
toppings will blow you away. They also have a great
selection of seafood and pasta dishes, plus a great wine
selection, but it’s the pizza that is truly perfecto!QB‑3,
ul. Wita Stwosza 16, tel. (+48) 71 319 45 59, www. Open 12:00 - 21:00. (25-60zł).
Tried and true La Scala enjoys a big reputation amongst
locals, despite revved-up Rynek prices and uneven service
from the bow-tied staff. That’s down to the food no doubt,
with arguably the best Italian in town in the exclusive
upstairs eatery, while the ground floor trattoria offers
guests a cheaper, more concise incarnation of the menu
amongst red-chequered tablecloths, pictures of rural Italy
and strings of garlic.QA‑3, Rynek 38, tel. (+48) 71 372
53 94, Open 11:00 - 24:00. (20-150zł).



A huge open plan space that does little in the way of décor,
but plenty for the reputation of Korean food. Overseen by
a Korean chap who settled in Poland over a decade ago
Darea offers a cracking menu of both Japanese and Korean
dishes including tangsuyuk (sweet and sour beef baked in
pastry), bulgogi and five grill options where the cooking is
left to the patrons. Highly recommended and a confirmed
favourite of Wrocław’s expats. Take-away on offer at a 15
percent discount.QB‑2, ul. Kuźnicza 43/45, tel. (+48) 71
343 53 01, Open 12:00 - 22:30. (20-100zł).


La Dolce Vita
ul. Wita Stwosza 16
tel. 71 319 45 59
/ ladolcevitawroclaw
34 Wrocław In Your Pocket

Located near the White Stork Synagogue and Jewish
Community Centre, Sarah can make as claim as Wrocław’s
most Jewish restaurant, for whatever that’s worth. The
budget menu is not kosher, but features traditional Jewish
dishes, and though reports of their quality and that of
the service is a little uneven, this is still a great place to
spend time in our opinion. With plenty of atmosphere
thanks to earthy colours, menorah candlelight and loads
of antiques, Sarah is reminiscent of the cafes found in
Kraków’s old Jewish district and teams with Mleczarnia to
create one of the best seasonal beer gardens in the city.
QE‑4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 609 99 01 97, www. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (13-39zł). 6­U­


korean - japanese restaurant

Wrocław, ul. Kuźnicza 43/45
reservation tel. (071) 343 53 01


Endeavouring to capture the scholarly, sophisticated
spirit of inter-war society, the main feature of Steinhaus’
smart dark wood interior is the large chalkboards, casually
scribbled with daily specials, mathematical equations
and humorous quips attributed to the restaurant’s longbeaked namesake - Hugo Steinhaus - a well-known
Polish-Jewish mathematician, professor and aphorist. In
his honour, the owners have created a place where the
humanities, science and humour gather at the same table
to share some conversation, libations, and outstanding
Jewish Galician dishes like lamb shank with porridge
and dumplings. Appropriately placed in the District of 4
Denominations, this multi-faceted venue has character
to spare.QE‑4, ul. Włodkowica 11, tel. (+48) 512 93 10
71, Open 11:00 - 23:00. (16-58zł).

With a great location next to the Mleczarnia beer garden,
and including seasonal outdoor seating overlooking the
White Stork Synagogue, La Maddalena offers upscale
dining in Wrocław’s former Jewish, currently hipster
district. The creme-coloured, conservatively elegant
interior includes homely touches like wicker lampshades
and quilted seat covers, and can accommodate large
groups as well as couples looking for a more intimate

date destination. An enticing menu of Mediterranean
dishes, ranging from light tapas to expertly prepared
pastas, makes the art of deciding a challenge and with
the big emphasis on presentation you may be tempted
to take out your camera when they arrive. Portions are
small but delicious, and you’d never guess that 80% of
the entrees are gluten-free.QE‑4, ul. Włodkowica 9,
tel. (+48) 71 782 60 90, Open
12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (29-79zł). T­U­

Leave your own comments & reviews:
Looking to rise above the recent rash of upscale Italian
restaurants all across the country, Va Bene has diversified
to offer more Mediterranean dishes and a seasonal menu
to continue their credible claim as some of the best food
in town. The interior is suitably sharp and features the
original ceiling, which is worth taking a peek at whether
you’re hungry or not. Sneak in for the 23.90zł daily lunch
menu, and in summer enjoy people-watching from their
market square patio.QB‑3, Rynek 51, tel. (+48) 71 343 83
50, Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri
12:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (2678zł). T­G­S­W
January - April 2016



Located in the Boutique Brajt Hotel, this restaurant is a fittingly
classy, white-tablecloth affair serving fancy takes on traditional
Polish cuisine in a bright veranda-like interior. Since regional
products are used as much as possible, the menu is seasonal.
Meals begin with complimentary fresh bread and their own
pumpkin pesto before warm bowls of traditional żurek (Polish
rye soup) and platters of roast duck or pork chops arrive.
QE-4, ul. Włodkowica 18, tel. (+48) 71 346 29 81, Open 07:00 - 22:00. (26-62zł). T­6­U­W


Those wanting to take a quick foxtrot through the
world of the Polish kitchen should consider putting the
following to the test:
Bigos: Also known as Hunter’s Stew. Though there’s no
standard recipe for this hearty dish, it’s usually made
using meat, cabbage, onions, sauerkraut and whatever
else is around, and then left to simmer for a few days.
If you have second helpings then consider yourself a
Pole by default.
Gołąbki: Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite
dish consists of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with
beef, onion and rice before being baked and served
with a tomato or mushroom sauce.
Golonka: Pork knuckle, as in pig’s thigh. A true Polish
delicacy, the meat should slip right off the bone, be
served with horseradish, and washed down with beer.
Go caveman.
Kiełbasa: Sausages, and in Polish shops you’ll find an
enormous variety, made from everything from turkey
to bison.
Pierogi: Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with
potato (Ruskie), sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and
cabbage, or fruit, though if you nose around you will
find plenty of maverick fillings like broccoli, chocolate
or liver; the possibilities are truly limitless and they are
served almost everywhere.
Placki: These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very
similar to Jewish latkes and best enjoyed with goulash
on top (placki po Węgiersku). Highly caloric, they’re also
a tried and true hangover cure.
Zupa (Soup): Poland has two signature soups: barszcz
and żurek. A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be
served with potatoes or mini-pierogi floating in it, or
with a croquette for dunking, but we prefer to order it
‘solo’ in a mug for drinking. Żurek is a unique sour rye
soup with sausage, potatoes and occasionally egg
chucked in, and sometimes served in a bread bowl.
36 Wrocław In Your Pocket

This small, popular Polish eatery, across from the ul. Jatka
gallery stalls, achieves the trick of appearing like a rustic village
cottage if you don’t notice the ceiling ductwork. Enhancing
the illusion is the genuine Bolesławiec folkware on the tables
(begging to leap into someone’s handbag), stout wooden
tables, timber fittings and a thatched awning over the bar.
The menu - conveniently available in Polish, English, German
and Spanish - features all the Polish classics, but take note that
almost everything on it is fried. Despite the average food, it
can be hard to score a table in this veteran chow house, which
makes a fine place for a fast, local lunch, or late evening meal
if you were busy drinking when the dinner bell rang. And they
conveniently accept Euros.QA‑3, ul. Odrzańska 7, tel. (+48)
530 23 08 11. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (10-30zł). G­S
One of the most regal-looking restaurants on the Rynek,
Dwór Polski is stuffed full of stuffed falcons, Hussar wings
and enough medieval armour and weaponry to start a
museum. Those looking for a royal feast however, may be
disappointed. Despite the upmarket prices and palatial
interiors, the food - mostly game dishes like pheasant, hare,
boar and venison carved up with pewter cutlery - doesn’t
always live up to expectations. Gamey indeed, and if you’re
a vegetarian, get away quickly.QA‑3, Rynek 5, tel. (+48)
71 372 48 96, Open 12:00 23:00. (30-65zł). T­6­G­S­W
Formal, elegant, and fitted with portraits of Emperor Franz
Joseph glaring down on diners, this restaurant really goes
for the Galician theme. The extensive menu of Polish,
Jewish, and generally Central European dishes includes
such entrées as “Polish Kings’ Duck” and “Delicacy from
the Emperor’s Table”, and the slightly nostalgic ambiance
will take you way back to a by-gone era.QA‑5, ul.
Piłsudskiego 66 (Polonia Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 342 21
75, Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sun
12:00 - 19:00. (25-60zł). T­G­S­W
Faultless modern and traditional Polish cuisine with a
Lithuanian influence served inside an ornate, imperial
backdrop featuring vaulted brick ceilings, timber and starched

linen. The concise menu won’t bowl you over, but the class
and quality will. Choose from roasted duck with apples, black
currant sauce, potato dumplings and fried beetroot, or seize
the moment by ordering wild boar. Expect an expansive wine
list, professional service and a commitment to excellence.
One of the few world class dining options in the city.QA‑3,
ul. Rzeźnicza 24/25, tel. (+48) 71 343 64 61,
Open 13:00 - 22:00. (27-92zł). 6­G­S­W
Translating to ‘Lviv Tavern’ and dedicated not only to that
formerly Polish city now lost in the wilds of the Ukraine,
but also to that thought-to-be lost Polish ideal of a simple
country lifestyle, this nostalgic restaurant’s immaculately
decorated interior is decked out in rustic, rural artefacts,
antiques, old photos and seems to have a stuffed pheasant
on almost every table. Designed for day-long feasting,
the menu of traditional Galician specialties looks like an
outstanding bargain before you notice that all side dishes
are charged separately, however the result is still a decent
value and evidence that not everything on the market
square is a tourist trap.QA‑3, Rynek 4, tel. (+48) 71 343
98 87, Open 11:00 - 24:00. (3080zł). T­6­E­X­W

Polish cuisine Restaurant
Terrace & Garden
Phone +48 71 346 29 81 •

Recreating the 1980s with newspapers, political cartoons,
posters, and other communist era imagery, Konspira calls
itself a ‘Centre for Historical Education’ illuminating Wrocław’s
role in the Solidarity movement. With some English info
it could do a better job, but as a restaurant it’s absolutely
brilliant with enormous portions of tasty local grub and
absurdly cheap prices seemingly straight from the old days.
The killer location includes a huge garden full of gorgeous
trees(!), a historical exhibit (Polish only, unfortunately) and
even an outdoor play area for kids. Make sure you ask to
see the ‘hidden room’ - a clever artefact-laden recreation of
what a Polish apartment might have looked like in the mid80s. Completely unique, worth checking out and worth the
bill twice over.QA‑3, Pl. Solny 11, tel. (+48) 796 32 66 00, Open 12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 23:00. (10-30zł). T­G­S­W
Taking pierogi - a traditional staple of Polish cuisine - and
turning them into a tourist-fleecing cash crop, Pierogarnia
Stary Młyn specialises in baked dumplings, as opposed to
your traditional steamed variety. The menu is a meandering
visual mess, but offers a range of savoury, sweet, meat
or veg fillings, with your choice of sauces on the side.
Choose from overpriced sets of 3, 5 or 9, where adding an
additional individual ‘pierog’ costs an absurdly exact 8.96zł
(baked) or 5.46zł (steamed). To their credit, the dumplings
are very large (start with 3) and tasty, but hardly traditional.
The textbook definition of a tourist trap, there are dozens
of other places in Wrocław where you can taste your first
pierogi.QA‑3, Rynek 26, tel. (+48) 71 344 14 15, www. Open 11:03 - 22:57. (1432zł). T­G­S­W

January - April 2016



Karczma Lwowska

Wrocław, Rynek 4
Rezerwacje / Reservations
+48 / 71 34 39 887




Pl. Solny 11, Wrocław |

38 Wrocław In Your Pocket

Seems things have gone downhill a bit since this place was
opened over 700 years ago, making it the first beer cellar
in Europe. Named after the Schweidnitz (Świdnica) beer
brewed in the basement back in those days, today it serves
primarily as an effective tourist trap where the labyrinth
of historic Town Hall vaults lure unwitting visitors into
ordering rather average overpriced traditional food served
by uncaring staff. Nonetheless an Old Town landmark, and
well worth a look at the very least.QA‑3, Rynek-Ratusz 1,
tel. (+48) 71 369 95 10,
Open 12:00 - 23:00. (32-75zł). G
A perfect introduction to traditional Polish cuisine, from a
perfect location inside Wrocław’s medieval Town Hall, Pod
Fredrą ably covers the spectrum of Polish classics and even
boasts its very own onsite smokehouse. The music, walls, and
meaty menu combine to create the appearance of an old Polish
village and the staff will dutifully serve you in at least three
languages (Polish, German or English). The extensive country
fare is complemented by a large and international wine list,
and you need not worry about your eyes being too big for
your stomach as they’re quite happy to doggy-bag whatever
you’re unable to put away of the large portions.QA‑3, Rynek
- Ratusz 1, tel. (+48) 71 341 13 35, Open
11:00 - 23:00. (30-60zł). T­6­U­X­S
Known under communism as the most exclusive restaurant
in Wrocław, queues would stretch outside the revolving doors
as the staff shooed away anyone not wearing a tie, and menus
and tableware frequently disappeared into the pockets of
souvenir hoarders banking on the Monopol’s rep as a culinary
masterpiece. With the historic building renovated and under
the savvy stewardship of Likus, today that excellence is back in
place with master chefs preparing a wide range of traditional
Polish dishes, and an inspired breakfast smorgasbord starting
each day. A modern classic, just leave the cutlery when you
go.QA‑4, ul. Modrzejewskiej 2 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48)
71 772 37 80, Open
06:30 - 10:00, 12:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 07:30 - 10:30, 12:00 22:00. (65-75zł). U­G­W
For those who miss the Communist system, and those who
simply missed it altogether, this ‘Polish Folk Bar’ recreates the
Soviet-era diner experience in the mould of the currently
trendy 24hr Polish snack and shot bar. The loud, time-warp
interior is plastered floor to ceiling with fine historical images
of PRL life, while the menu is a bit more than the typical
romp through cold dishes that complement vodka - the
ribs are arguably the best in town, and we also recommend
the potato pancakes with goulash. The prices here are
precious more than pocket change, and Setka is certainly
more popular than we ever remember any other aspect
of the communist system being in this country.QA‑3, ul.
Kazimierza Wielkiego 50a, tel. (+48) 71 715 60 60, www. Open 10:00 - 06:00. (8-12zł). G­W

Six types of paella, a good range of tapas and tortillas, fish
in abundance, a superb veggie selection and a coveted
location (including terrific Rynek-side seating in season)
all ensure that this Spanish eatery stays stoked with happy
patrons. Inside you will find a vaulted room full of gloomy
corners and a scary mannequin dressed like a matador.
QA‑3, Rynek 53/55, tel. (+48) 71 344 65 62. Open 12:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (23-50zł). T­G­S

This typical hole-in-the-wall establishment has perhaps four
tables and an open kitchen, meaning you can peer right
into the Thai cooks’ woks as they stir-fry together delicious
concoctions. The very fairly-priced menu includes curries,
spring rolls, fried rice, and - of course - pad thai. Care to learn
some Thai phrases while chowing down? Look no further than
the blackboard on the back wall.QB‑2, ul. Więzienna 5c, tel.
(+48) 534 79 88 63, Open 11:00 - 21:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (15-25zł). 6­S­W

With the historical and cultural connection that post-war
Wrocław shares with Ukraine, you would expect Ukrainian
food to be more prevalent locally, but we’ll happily settle
for Hortyca. With a radio playing from behind the bar and
a simple menu of traditional dishes, this casual, cheap and
tiny restaurant offers a surprisingly authentic experience of
Ukrainian dining, enhanced by the folksy decor, flatware,
and dress of the plump-faced waitress. If you’re not wellversed in Ukrainian food, it’s basically what you might have
surmised: a blend of Polish and Russian cuisine; as such,
the short menu is populated with dumplings, blinis and
borscht. Our Plov - a rice dish with meat and ‘traditional
seasonings’ - was delicious, and we capped it off by toasting
PL’s eastern neighbours with a shot of Nemiroff.QB‑2, ul.
Więzienna 18/1, tel. (+48) 71 318 75 66, www.hortyca. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (10-20zł). T­6­G­S­W
‘Kres’ refers to the former eastern provinces of PL lost after
WWII (today in Lithuania, Belarus and Ukraine), though
they seem to be using the term more liberally here,
with Czech beers and Georgian wine, though the food
is decidedly Ukrainian with the house specialty being
Chicken Kiev. The menu may pose a challenge for those
unfamiliar with obscure Eastern dishes, but the staff will
help you figure out that most of the food is fairly familiar.


Kazimierza Wielkiego 50A
Tel.: +48 71 715 60 60
/ setkabar

Bar Polski Ludowej

January - April 2016


A lot has changed since
communism got kneecapped and Poland
joined the EU. While
many of the old ways of
the old days have disappeared or become
slightly disneyfied in
today’s tourist-laden
Kraków, one relic remains resolutely un-Western: the
Polish milk bar, or bar mleczny. These steamy cafeterias serving proletariat cuisine to an endless queue
of tramps, pensioners and students provide a grim
glimpse into Eastern Bloc Poland and have all the atmosphere (and sanitary standards) of a gas station restroom. We love them. For the cost of a few coins you can
eat like an orphaned street urchin, albeit an extremely
well-fed one. Put the Racławice Panorama on hold, a
visit to the milk bar is a required cultural experience for
anyone who has just set foot in the country.
As restaurants were nationalised across the country
by PL’s communist authorities after WWII, milk bars
appeared in their place to provide cheap, dairy-based
meals to the masses (as cheerlessly as possible,
apparently); in fact meals at the local milk bar were
often included in a worker’s salary. In addition to milk,
yoghurt, cottage cheese and other dairy concoctions,
milk bars offered omelettes and egg cutlets, as well as
flour-based foods like pierogi. Times were so desperate
under communism that many milk bars chained
the cutlery to the table to deter rampant thievery;
by this same reasoning you’ll notice that most milk
bars today use disposable dishes and the salt and
pepper are dispensed from plastic cups with a spoon.
Similarly, the orders are still taken by ashen-faced, allbusiness babcias (Polish grannies), and the food is as
inspired as ever - the only difference being that meat
is no longer rationed in modern PL. With the collapse
of communism most bar mleczny went bankrupt,
however, some of these feed museums were saved and
continue to be kept open through state subsidies. The
range of available dishes begins to fall off as closing
time approaches, so go early, go often.
QB‑3, Pl. Nowy Targ 27, tel. (+48) 71 344 24 55.
Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
(3-10zł). N­G
Named after the classic Polish comedy film which
caricatured milk bars during the communist era.QB‑3,
ul. Kuźnicza 48, tel. (+48) 71 343 49 63. Open 07:00 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (5-14zł). N­G
40 Wrocław In Your Pocket

Though primarily a cheap restaurant, the atmosphere here
is that of an alternative bar/cafe with a young crowd and
more hipster hallmarks (unfinished floors, plywood bar,
neon sign) than interwar nostalgia. With frequent events
and film screenings, Kres wants to be a bit of everything,
but it’s surprisingly friendly for a place that exudes cool.
QA‑3, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 19, tel. (+48) 884 15 10
45. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 21:00. (10-25zł). 6­E­G­S­W

Okay, first things first: these people really do know their
spices, and it’s hard to believe that someone can inject
this much flavour into lowly tofu. You won’t leave hungry,
either; the all-vegan menu offers huge portions of veggie
sizzlers, masala dosa, stir-fry vegetables in peanut sauce,
thali and sushi of the day, falafel, and veggie burgers. While
the delicious smell might just be the deciding factor when
choosing to dine here, the warm minimalist ambience
entices you to sit a while longer.QE‑4, ul. Św. Antoniego
23, tel. (+48) 71 344 55 22, Open
11:00 - 21:00, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00,
Sun 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. (14-25zł). T­6­G­
Centuries ago (eight of them to be exact), this gloomy brick
tower was part of the city’s medieval defensive fortifications,
and today it houses one of the most unique alternative
hang-outs in town. Offering an outstanding menu of
vegan and vegetarian food, choice from outrageously
cheap curries, pad thai, tempeh and tofu satay, ramen
and other Pan-Asian delights, plus a range of vegan and
gluten-free desserts. Baszta also doubles as a gallery for
surreal graphics over its three ancient storeys, and achieves
a low-key, romantic, bohemian vibe perfect for bean bag
conversation or burying your nose in a book. Getting there
is an adventure, and you’ll surely make an impression on
anyone you navigate through the dark courtyard behind
Hala Targowa to Baszta’s door (most easily achieved from
ul. Piaskowa). Seek it out.QC‑3, ul. Kraińskiego 14, tel.
(+48) 603 51 08 35, Open 12:00
- 21:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00
- 21:00. Closed Mon. (18-22zł). T­6­G­S­W
Hidden behind an azure facade is a beautifully tiled
interior that might as well be a Moroccan courtyard or
bathhouse. As the name implies, this locale specializes in
all that is healthy, organic, and plant-based, with the everchanging menu proving that vegan cuisine does in fact go
beyond seaweed and grass. It seems that this might just
be the first place in Wrocław to dabble in the raw food
trend - but those who prefer their food cooked won’t leave
disappointed, either.QA‑3, ul. Ruska 19, tel. (+48) 733
53 72 10. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00. (1025zł). T­6­G­S­W

With a name that means ‘slowly’ in Polish, this pleasant
breakfast and lunch spot has latched onto the slow lifestyle
trend, offering carefully-made, unfussy, healthy food in an
interior whose style we’d like to call ‘homey minimalism.’
Perhaps the best thing about this lil’ place is the community
atmosphere you feel right through the door, with locals
hanging around reading, having a morning cuppa, and/
or discussing medical problems (the hospital across the
street is especially conducive to this). Powoli offers twists
on popular Polish dishes like pierogi, potato pancakes,
crepes, casserole - all made with unorthodox, nutritious
ingredients - and we gotta say the food is delicious; though
not strictly vegetarian, most of their dishes are meat-free.
QB‑1, ul. Rydygiera 25/27, tel. (+48) 732 52 34 07. Open
09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (7-17zł).
This veteran establishment earns honours for being the the
first in the country to commit to going all vegetarian when
it opened way back in 1987. Now, following a needed
renovation, Vega has upped its own ‘anti-’ by going 100%
vegan. Set over two floors right on the market square, the
modern makeover has done wonders for the interior and the
food is good as ever, especially the amazing cakes, desserts
and vegan ice cream. Enjoy daily specials, meatless cutlets
and Eastern-inspired dishes, with plenty for diabetics, those
going gluten-free and even raw foodies. Full of flyers and
activist info, this place is a veritable counter-culture centre,
and probably the cheapest, most alternative place you can
eat on the market square of any major city in Poland. Way
to go, Wrocław.QB‑3, ul. Sukiennice 1/2, tel. (+48) 71 344
39 34, Open 08:00 - 19:00, Fri
08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. (925zł). T­6­G­S­W
After some rather nomadic beginnings, Evil Meat (bless its
tofu heart) has dropped a squat deep in a courtyard off of
ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich and looks inclined to stay. Featuring
plenty of home-made tattoos, dreadlocks, DIY decor (milk
crate light fixtures, mural art) and always a dog or too, this
place has remained an underground institution, and is
one of the city’s best vegetarian eateries. Despite being a
gathering place for the Great Unwashed, enticing smells hit
you as soon as you step inside; choose from daily specials,
curries, casseroles, veggie cutlets, falafel, pizza, tofu and
two things we’ve never seen before in PL - seitan and
tempeh(!). Hard to find, and even harder to believe how
good it is, look for the green neon sign and go veg out.
QA‑3, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 19, tel. (+48) 667 94 78
04, Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 13:00 20:00. (15-23zł). 6­G­S


A cigarette and coffee for some, the key to a successul
day for others, below we list the city’s best breakfasts.
One of the best breakfast menus in town, served all
day, on a boat - can you beat it? Choose between
several full breakfast platters (which include tea or
coffee), pancakes, drop scones, eggs your way, bread
and cheese platters, porridge, toasted sandwiches and
more. Orders are flexible, the options are enormous,
and there are also fresh-squeezed juices and healthy
cocktails available.QC‑1, ul. Wyspa Słodowa 10, tel.
(+48) 71 322 60 77, Open
09:00 - 22:00. (8-39zł). T­U­G
While the rest of the market square is still sleeping, this
bunch is up baking fresh bread, baguettes, pastries and
other sweet and savoury treats to start your day. Enjoy
a coffee and a croissant, or fresh-squeezed orange juice
and a plate of tapas, in their outside terrace across from
the Town Hall, and watch Wrocław slowly wake up
before your eyes.QA‑3, Rynek 8, tel. (+48) 532 06 21
89, Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
08:00 - 22:00. (10-14Zł). G­S­W
This American-style bakery and cafe is open early for
breakfast, offering pastries, cupcakes, quiche, yoghurt,
oatmeal and over a dozen bagel sandwich possibilities;
big appetites can also order eggs their way and even
pancakes (with maple syrup, fruit, powdered sugar,
however you want).QA‑3, ul. Św. Antoniego 10, tel.
(+48) 71 794 96 23, Open 07:00
- 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Breakfast
served 07:00 - 14:30; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:30. (8-20zł).
One of the best breakfast menus we’ve seen in PL, and
it’s served all day. Choose from a range of tasty egg
concoctions (like fried eggs on toast with avocado,
tomatoes, olives and almonds), quiches, pastries and
French specialties like Croque Madame, Monsieur and
their own excellent Croque Giselle. The delicious coffee
comes in huge mugs and all the bread is baked fresh on
site daily. Unbeatable.QB‑3, ul. Szewska 27, tel. (+48)
71 725 55 62. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.
(15-20zł). T­6­G­S­W
January - April 2016



Bread plus wine and everything’s fine in Charlotte Chleb i Wino.

This colourful Italian cafe offers enough sundaes, shakes
and other sweet treats to make all the teeth of a shark
fall out in ecstasy. Seriously, the sheer variety of desserts
available here is awe-inspiring and makes deciding a
challenging conundrum (don’t worry, there’s no incorrect
choice). The modern design is eclectic, but smart, with
exposed bricks, wallpaper disguised as tile mosaic, and
a subtle angel theme that gets less so when applied to
the cute teenage girls in vintage red dresses working here,
while the clientele is largely their peers and grandmothers.
A great place to take the kids, if you’ve overdone the
sweets there are also a range of savoury soups, quiches,
crepes and breakfast until 12:00.QB‑3, ul. Wita Stwosza
1-2, tel. (+48) 71 346 29 44, Open
08:30 - 21:00, Fri 08:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.
Around the corner from Pasaż Niepolda and open early
- here’s a good place to start your day. This Americanstyle bakery cafe offers a blackboard menu (in Polish
and English) with plenty of familiar breakfast options,
including pancakes with maple syrup, bagels and cream
cheese, yoghurt with granola and honey, oatmeal loaded
with yummy toppings, pastries, cupcakes, quiche and
more - all of it made on site we’re told. Of course, there’s
coffee and smoothies as well, plus plenty of space to park
it and observe the cute clientele enjoying their oatmeal
until your eyes are sufficiently wide enough to take your
sightseeing back into town. The spacious, high-ceilinged,
42 Wrocław In Your Pocket

classic black-and-white interior also serves as a great place
to work or discuss business.QA‑3, ul. Św. Antoniego 10,
tel. (+48) 71 794 96 23, Open 07:00
- 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. T­U­G­
Bucking the city’s craft beer obsession, Charlotte is focussed
on fresh baked bread, pastries, French classics like Croque
Madame and creme brulee, and gourmet cheese and meat
platters - all accompanied by great coffee or wine (no
beer!). As such, it’s great for breakfast, whether in the sunny
patio or spacious, stylish interior. The hipster quotient of
the clients here is off the charts, and only outmatched by
the staff, who look like they’re posing for a Paris-themed
street fashion shoot while you wait for your order, or even
a place to sit. It took Kraków’s Charlotte some time to get
their act together, and we assume they’ll get over their
growing pains here as well, but by the looks of it, Charlotte
is an instant success.QA‑3, ul. Św. Antoniego 2/4 (Pasaż
Pokoyhof), tel. (+48) 608 64 69 66, www.bistrocharlotte.
com. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. T­6­U­G­S­W
The name is a strained acronym for coexistence,
cooperation, friendship, love and identity, but we
would have gone with something along the lines of
‘cobobaga’ (coffee, books, bar and gallery) to better
get at the many facets of this friendly establishment.
Culture should probably be in there somewhere as well,

since this place has become a bit of a meeting place
for it. Creating an antiquated intellectual aesthetic
thanks to a mish-mash of furnishings including a walllength bookshelf, old telephone switchboard, and
unique decorative art with portraits of luminairies from
Wrocław’s Jewish past, Cocofli’s selection of comics
and children’s books will make you wish you spoke
Polish. Here they’re hip to all the alternative coffee
brewing techniques and offer rice, soy or almond milk,
or enjoy a glass of wine or a local microbrew.QE‑4, ul.
Włodkowica 9, tel. (+48) 71 756 99 90. Open 10:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. G­W
Formerly known as ‘Chocoffee,’ this is still one of the best
cafes in Wrocław. Found on the corner of Igielna, the
exterior is painted with phrases and variations of the word
‘chocolate’ in a dozen different languages. Inside find a
quiet, cosy cafe with fine marble tables, classy wallpaper
and comfy couches. A tantalising number of chocolate
and coffee concoctions are available, hot or cold, to stay
or to go. Not to mention the display full of small sweets,
truffles, fudge and other treats. Their chocolate coffee
with a scoop of vanilla ice cream? - the only reason we get
out of bed some days. A gem.QB‑2, ul. Więzienna 31, Open 10:00 - 22:00.
This hippie co-op charges guests for time spent at the
cafe, offering in return an open space to make free coffee
and sandwiches, help yourself to freshly-baked cake, play
board games, take advantage of the wi-fi, read books and
magazines, and chat to fellow free spirits. The minimum
time is 15 minutes (3.75zł); an entire day will cost you 35zł.
QB‑1, ul. Jedności Narodowej 68a, tel. (+48) 71 735 16
35, Open 12:00 - 20:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. T­6­U­N­
This groovy little cafe is an obvious labour of love, and
old school audiophiles will literally feel right at home
with the living room arrangement around the hi-fi
record player. Full of cosy armchairs, crates of vinyl LPs
and shelves of books, come in, pick out a 45, curl up
with a coffee or beer and a book and you’ve got yourself
the perfect afternoon. The sound system is state-ofthe-art, their extensive record collection ranges from
Dizzy Gillespie to Devendra Banhart, and bonus points
for the policy of making sure a side plays all the way
to the end before it gets changed. The coffee comes in
big mugs, sweets are on hand, there’s a strong selection
of Czech beers, wine and cider, and you can also buy
and trade records here. A second home to many.QB‑3,
ul. Kotlarska 35-36/1a, tel. (+48) 508 26 02 88. Open
10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.





amorinio - ice cream
& grand cafe
ul. Wita Stwosza 1-2, Wrocław

Though the Polish winter is
famous for being long and
brutal, fear not, the Poles
have a method for taking
the bite out of this blustery
season, and as you can
probably guess - it’s
alcohol (congratulations,
Kowalski). For those in
need of a warm-up, but
who wince at the thought
of vodka, we have two
words for you: hot beer, or
‘grzane piwo’ as it’s called by the locals. Essentially
a frothing hot pint spiced with artificial ginger syrup,
clove, cinnamon and other mulling spices, for some
this Polish specialty is an acquired taste, for others
an early Christmas present, and others still an utter
profanity. Regardless, it’s a necessary invention and
a must-try (at least once) for anyone travelling in
PL during the winter months. Similarly popular is
‘grzane wino’ – or mulled wine – as you’ll notice
by the outdoor stands selling cups of it during the
holiday season. Still not sure? Keep mulling it over...
and Na zdrowie!
January - April 2016



Visit Coctail Bar Max (p.45) for drinks with so much fresh fruit in them, you’ll wonder where they fit the booze.

Wroclaw bars are flexible - no matter what the official
closing times are, most will stay open until the last
customer has crawled out. The lion’s share are concentrated
around the market square, but for more alternative
drinking destinations also check out the divey tippler’s
strip below the ul. Bogusławskiego train tressle (F-5),
and destinations west of the market square, namely the hip
cafe/bars of Pasaż Pokoyhof (A-3, ul. Św. Antoniego 2/4)
and ul. Włodkowica (E-4), and the hedonistic courtyards
off ul. Ruska, including Pasaż Niepolda (E-4, ul. Ruska
51, p.50). Recently, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich (A-3) has also
emerged a one of the city’s most happening alternative
streets. For clubbing, the main hedonist hangouts are ul.
Św. Mikołaja (A-3) and the famous Pasaż Niepolda (E-4,
p.50), where the parties last until morning even if you don’t.
Expect cover charges of anywhere from 5-20zł at the door
on weekends, and don’t expect to find toilet paper in any of
the bathrooms after 22:00.

Discover the depths of Polish beer culture in Kontynuacja,
Marynka, Szynkarnia and Pod Latarniami, or try
newcomer Browar Złoty Pies (Breweries, p.48) where they
brew their own.

Unfortunately, space is limited in our print guide, so visit
our website - (of which
there’s also a mobile version) - to read reviews of almost
every drinking locale in town, and leave us your comments
about all of those which you’ve visited. Read on for some
recommendations to start you on the path to drunken
delinquency. Na zdrowie, and happy hangover.

Show off by starting the night with a romantic dinner in
OK Wine Bar (p.29), or a fancy drink in Papa Bar. Enjoy a
classy jazz concert at Vertigo (Live Music, p.46), continue
the conversation by candlelight in Mleczarnia, or take a
turn on the dance-floor in Manana (Clubs).

Shake it up in local stalwarts Papa Bar and Pod Papugami,
or get fresh and fruity in newcomer Coctail Bar Max.
Domówka and PRIV (Clubs) are currently the most
exclusive catwalks for celebrity spotting and being seen.
44 Wrocław In Your Pocket

As beer prices go up, cheap shot bars (p.49) are appearing
all over, sustained by Wrocław’s student population. Wicar’s
has a definite frat party appeal while Szajba and Manana
(Clubs) are the best locales for spontaneous booty-shaking.
Winners is the civilised choice for football, food and beer,
but you can do that at home. Instead, make friends over Pro
Evo in Padbar, challenge the locals to foosball in Wicar’s,
and don’t miss trying one of the Polish Snacks & Shots
(p.49) spots in town like Setka.

Regular presentations on how to be a Polish hipster are
given in Szklarnia and KRVN; Nietota (Clubs) has a darker
side, Neon Side illuminates the city’s edgy urbanity, and
Art Cafe Kalambur (Clubs) is the heights of opiatic art
nouveau decadence.

N Credit cards not accepted

G No smoking

U Facilities for the disabled

6 Animal friendly

X Smoking room available

E Live music

W Wi-fi connection

Located in the trend-setting Ibis Styles Hotel across from
Dwórzec Główny, the location may not be ideal for a
pub crawl, but if you’ve got some time to kill between
connections, or if you’re craving a pint straight off the train,
then this surprisingly hip hotel bar is definitely worth a visit.
It’s got a touch of industrial chic, black-and-white decor,
neon and mood lighting, walls covered in blackboard paint
and chalk renderings, live sports on the TV, and a laid-back
ambience - what more do you need?QC‑5, Pl. Konstytucji
3 Maja 3, tel. (+48) 71 733 48 21. Open 17:00 - 02:00.
The search for the letter ‘k’ continues at this upscale, roomy
and inviting locale featuring tall windows, exposed brick,
and a well-stocked 360 degree bar at the centre. Busy and
chatty in the evenings, Coctail Bar Max nevertheless draws a
calmer crowd, making this the place for getting one or two
elegant drinks without stepping on other patrons’ feet or
having to yell over dubstep. For a fancier experience, allow
the white-smocked waiter to gingerly guide you into a glasspartitioned room of cigars and rare whiskeys, some dating
back to the 1960s.QA‑3, ul. Rzeźnicza 28-31, tel. (+48) 691
96 00 00, Open 11:00 - 05:00. U­­X­W
Wrocław might be the best beer city in PL, and this is its
best craft beer house. With 25 beers from PL and abroad
on draught (including two hand-pumps), the ales are
inscrutable, though the atmosphere isn’t always there. Here
you won’t find the loud din of a beer hall, but low music
and a discerning, overly civilised crowd of connoisseurs.
What exactly it’s missing, we’re not sure, but the modern,
minimal decor with a few street art touches is apparently
neither alternative nor cosy enough to create the buzz
you’d expect from the bar with the best brews in town.
Still, if you want to find praise for Polish beer - this is the
place.QA‑3, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 17, tel. (+48) 792 40
00 84. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri 16:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 03:00. G­W

ul. Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, Wrocław
Phone: +48 71 733 48 21

Coctail Bar Max & Dom Whisky

ul. Rzeznicza 28-31
50-130 Wroclaw
tel. + 48 691 960 000


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The Biggest Poland

January - April 2016


All venues that can claim to offer live music are marked
with a saxophone icon E, but in addition to those
below, Stary Klasztor (p.32), Pod Papugami (p.48) and
Nietota (p.51) are particularly worthy of investigation.
To find out what specific concerts are happening when
you’re in town, check our Events section (p.16).
If you’re sick of brick cellars, head to this thoroughly
modern marvel for a lesson in grand dance-club
design. One of the city’s top venues, Eter looks the part
with dazzling professional lighting and an incredible
sound system - put to good use while hosting some
of Wrocław’s best concerts and events. Spread over
two underground levels with four(!) bars, chill out
on the splendid upstairs mezzanine overlooking the
stage/dance-floor sofas before heading down into
dance-floor carnage with an unpretentious crowd
determined to take full advantage of the night. Check
their website to see what’s on.QA‑3, ul. Kazimierza
Wielkiego 19, tel. (+48) 796 62 29 11, www.eterclub.
pl. Open hours depend on the event. For concerts
open 20:00 - 03:00, for clubbing open 21:00 - 05:00.
This veteran venue has grown some grey hairs, but
remains an engaging endeavour that refuses to follow
fashions and retains a charismatic personality of its
own. Vermilion walls are home to all manner of visual
diversions, from framed pics of jazz gods to musical
instruments. A wrought iron mezzanine allows the
opportunity to admire all the clutter and the Wed - Fri
jazz concerts are free to enter and not to be missed.
QA‑3, Pl. Solny 17, tel. (+48) 71 343 37 01, www. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. E­X­W
This esteemed music entertainment outfit boasts
its own record label, and finally its own venue for
hosting almost nightly jazz concerts. Modern in its
slick design and acoustic precision, but classic in its
intimate atmosphere and Cotton Club appeal, Vertigo
is the best jazz club in the region and a nirvana not
only for earnest jazz enthusiasts, but also the players,
who are complimented with a high-profile ‘Artists’
Lounge’ at stage left. The cocktail prowess of the bar
staff is almost over-the-top, and there’s a nice menu
of creative European eats to accompany the live music
Wed-Sun starting at 20:00; most concerts are free,
and while reservations aren’t necessary, they would
be wise.QB‑3, ul. Oławska 13, tel. (+48) 71 335 21
29, Open 16:00 - 24:00; Fri, Sat
17:00 - 01:00; closed Mon. U­E­G­W
46 Wrocław In Your Pocket

Shorthand for ‘Karavan’ (obviously), this odd and amiable
bar/bistro combines a smart post-modern aesthetic with
a street art edge and deliberate traces of urban decay:
think steel doors and subtle neon, plus strange Sharpie
scribbles on unfinished walls. In the evenings it’s a total
hipster hangout full of fanny packs, plug earrings, ironic
moustaches and fast electronic music. The drinks menu
is unique, inventive and nothing short of excellent, with
a long list of original cocktails and hot concoctions for
weathering the long Polish winter. By day natural light
filters through the street-side windows and KRVN is more
of a bistro with a great menu of hot sandwiches, Polish
pancakes, burgers, pasta and salads (served until 22:00, FriSat 23:00). An ideal place to pretend you’re not a tourist,
this is essentially the perfect Wrocław hangout.QE‑4, ul.
Św. Antoniego 40/1A, tel. (+48) 575 79 17 57, www.krvn.
pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. G­S­W
Marynka essentially takes the idea and atmosphere of a
wine and tapas bar and applies it to choice ales. Here you
can select from upwards of 75 beers from all over the world,
including 8 regularly changing taps, while snacking on
tasty appetisers (which come free with your beer between
16:00 and 21:00!), and they’ve now added delicious woodfired pizza to their bag of tricks thanks to a cooperation
with Happy Little Food Truck parked out back. Hidden in an
obscure courtyard behind Graciarnia near the Royal Palace,
this is a refined place for beer lovers to relax without the
snobbery you might associate with connoisseur culture.
Worth seeking out.QA‑4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 39,
tel. (+48) 504 31 49 01. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00
- 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 23:00. G­W
We’ve been mainstays at this dusky, back-street, candlelit
pub since our first days in town. Hidden in an enchanting
courtyard with the White Stork Synagogue and a glorious
oak tree, the summer beer garden is fantastic, while the sepia
interior of wobbly furnishings and framed sketches captures
an ethereal, nostalgic atmosphere better than anywhere else
in Wroc’s former Jewish district. A bohemian mix of local
academics, hipsters and hostelers drink through the debate
topics of the day while an excellent mix of ethnic and indie
music (always played at just the right level) drifts through the
air. Honestly, Mleczarnia is the kind of place we could live in,
and some regulars appear to actually do so. With a hostel
upstairs, you can too.QE‑4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71
788 24 48, Open 08:00 - 04:00. X­W
This passageway between ul. Ruska and ul. Antoniego
is now not only a living gallery for street art, but also
salvaged neon art from the Soviet era. Not only is the
interior of this alternative venue densely laden with neons
(in various states of condition and working order), but the
facade is also hung with historic neon signs, thus making
the entrance rather hard to miss. Part bar/club and part

museum/gallery, inside Polish speakers will find some info
about the history of each sign alongside where it shines
down on the retro furnishings of this hipster clubhouse with
choice beers, weekend DJs, and a general counter-culture
vibe. Absolutely worth seeing, even if just for a look around
in the evening.QE‑4, ul. Ruska 46C, tel. (+48) 604 26 12
20. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. U­G­W
As long as you keep drinking, Niebo will stay open, and this
has become an after-hours cult classic packed with students
obliterating scholarships well after dawn; when one drops
off there’s three more to replace them. A long, dog-eared,
scarlet and blue bar full of random art photos and oddities,
Niebo is the start and finish point for many neighbourhood
pub crawls, so you’ll have to step over a few casualties
on your way to the dance-floor, pumping your fist to the
classic rock and 90s anthems.QE‑4, ul. Ruska 51b (Pasaż
Niepolda), tel. (+48) 71 342 98 67. Open 13:00 - 05:00,
Mon 17:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 08:00. 6­U­X­W
With a beer in one hand and a joystick in the other,
Padbar is a concept club for gamers (not gay men, sorry
for the confusion). The investment here obviously went
into equipment, not decor, which consists of black sofas,
bean bags, plywood tables...and dozens of flatscreen
TVs where you can play seemingly every video game,
for every gaming system, ever created. But Padbar isn’t
limited to video games - there are plenty of board games
as well, plus the obligatory Warhammer and Magic: The
Gathering crowds. With stencil art of Rambo and Einstein
holding game consoles, and a cocktail menu with names
like ‘Princess Zelda’ and ‘Crash Bandicoot’, this place is
impressively thought out, wildly popular and loud with
laughter. Perfect for making new friends, getting nostalgic
and having a blast, few places are as fun and friendly as
Padbar. Game on.QA‑3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 1, tel.
(+48) 883 75 17 14, Open 18:00 - 02:00,
Sun 16:00 - 02:00. U­G­W
One of Wrocław’s most stylish and chic bars, how much
you favour Papa Bar really depends how much you fancy
yourself a fit with the jet set. Filled with foreign and local
hotshots in collars and cufflinks beside blonde beauties
and botox cougars drinking cocktails and single malt
whiskeys around an endless rectangular bar, grand
colonnades support the ceiling while red carpet shots
of smiling Hollywood hunks and starlets dress the walls.
The space is enormous and has been entirely given over
to smokers, with the exception of a small corner. Though
the tedious house music is hardly original, Papa Bar still
provides many of the comforts other places lack - including
competent mixologists, sports on the flatscreen and a
menu of great eats served late. Recommended.QA‑3, ul.
Rzeźnicza 32/33, tel. (+48) 71 341 04 85, www.papabar.
pl. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00,
Sun 16:00 - 01:00. U­X­W

January - April 2016


Wrocław has a long and illustrious history of brewing
beer thanks to its past allegiances and current proximity
to both Germany and Czech Republic. While craft beers
are all the rage at the moment, the venues below are
taking it to the next level by actually brewing their own.
In a battle with Spiż for best local microbrewery, do
your drinking under the parasols of their prime Rynek
real estate during the sunny season, retreating into
the restaurant during those six months of the year
when willful impairment is forced indoors. Continuing
Wrocław’s long brewing tradition, this outfit does it all onsite with wheat, pilsner and dark beers among those on
draught. Prices are aimed at German tourists, and lager
lovers that they are you’ll find plenty of them happy to
pay for the privilege of a good ale. If it’s game day, you’ll
find Bierhalle’s plethora of teles to be one of your best
bets for catching the match.QA‑3, Rynek Ratusz 24-27,
tel. (+48) 601 67 74 52, Open 11:00
- 23:00, Thu 12:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. G­W
A place where beer keeps no secrets from beer drinkers
- the “live brewing” going on in this establishment
means that all stages of the process take place right in
front of visitors’ eyes, and you might even be allowed to
chuck in some malt or hops. Situated in a beautiful main
square tenement house with a golden dog emblem
(giving rise to the name of course), Złoty Pies offers five
types of beer - lager, IPA, wheat, amber and porter - and
a selection of modern Polish dishes which draw upon
local products and change with the seasons. Stop by
during lunch (Mon-Sat 11:00 - 16:00) for soup, an entree
and a beer for only 29zł.QB‑3, ul. Wita Stwosza 1-2, tel.
(+48) 570 22 12 12, Open 11:00
- 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. U­X­W
After losing some ground in the Breslau best beer
debate to Bierhalle, Spiż seems to have picked up the
slack by unveiling a few new brews which combined
with their caramel and honey beers, should be enough
to convince your ladyfriend to give it a go. With seven
unpasteurised, unfiltered brews in total, you should find
something to your taste, though beer enthusiasts are a
bit split about the quality. Despite service that is largely
lacking, a free table in the summer beer garden is still
a rarity, while an Oktoberfest atmosphere prevails in
the dark cellars of the Town Hall. Spiż is still considered
a must-visit by locals and remains perhaps Wrocław’s
most recognisable bar.QA‑3, Rynek-Ratusz 2, tel.
(+48) 71 344 72 25, Open 10:00 - 02:00,
Mon, Sun 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. X­W
48 Wrocław In Your Pocket

A warm, elegant, yet perfectly casual pub with a retro
turn-of-the-century interior full of mirrors, marble and fine
woodwork, including a long bar fitted with lanterns. In
addition to great atmosphere, there’s are 8 craft beers on
draught, rows of bottled ales and whiskies, and a mercifully
short menu of local specialties and grilled meats (including
a very good breaded pork chop), which are not only
tasty, but represent a great value. One of the few places
in Wrocław to earn mass  approval from high-collared
businessmen, British tourists, wind-creased geasers and
first-dating students. We like it too.QA‑3, ul. Ruska 3/4,
tel. (+48) 71 344 03 24. Open 10:30 - 02:00, Thu 10:30 04:00, Fri, Sat 10:30 - 05:00. U­G­W
Packed with wasp-waisted blondes Pod Papugami
still rates as one of the top venues in town for terrific
food, smart drinks and live music. Squeeze among the
local stars to knock down complicated cocktails amid
film reels, projectors and vintage movie memorabilia.
Champagne-voiced chanteuses take the stage most
nights, and the performances are usually very good
indeed.QA‑3, ul. Sukiennice 9a, tel. (+48) 71 343 92
75, Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Mon 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00.
Hidden one courtyard east of Mleczarnia, this large,
versatile high-ceilinged club/gallery caters to Wrocław’s
large demographic of hipsters who create happenings. Old
50s and 60s radios with glowing gummy bear lamps atop
them line the walls above old framed advertisements and
prints by local artists. The furnishings, as you can guess,
are more of the same attic antiques you find in many such
places, with candles and tulips on the tabletops and plenty
of room for large groups. Seasonal outdoor seating, an
eclectic alternative playlist, extensive exotic drink list and
free wifi are just a few more of the reasons Szajba is a great
place to pass time; the bar staff are obviously enjoying
themselves, as our coffee came with a near-complete tictac-toe board drawn in the foam, waiting for us to place the
winning stroke. A great find.QA‑3, ul. Św. Antoniego 2/4
(Pasaż Pokoyhof), tel. (+48) 660 40 42 70, www.szajba. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00.
Ofiar Oświęcimskich Street has exploded with hip new
venues to become one of Wrocław’s most exciting streets and this may be its most popular hangout at the moment.
Bearing all the hallmarks of hipster paradise - pricey craft
beers, cool cocktails, groovy music, DIY design and good
eats - they’ve basically taken all the best aspects of their
neighbours and combined them here. There’s even a club
in the basement on weekends. Dubbed ‘Greenhouse’ (as
Szklarnia translates in English) thanks to a glass ceiling,
this large space features a long wrap-around bar, lots

of natural light, and plenty of plywood and pallets
(naturally). A delight by day, things get crowded in the
evening when it basically turns into a urban lifestyle blog.
QA‑3, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 19, tel. (+48) 575 24 24
56. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. G­W
Another in a recent flurry of craft beer houses in Wrocław,
Szynkarnia is a hog of a different colour, however. Doing
unique double-duty as an ale house and deli counter
stocked with fine meats and cheeses, this place is more of a
low-key neighbourhood hangout than party headquarters,
despite a location bookending Pasaż Niepolda. In addition
to the 14 craft brews on draught, try the tasty ‘podpłomyki’
- a healthy wrap made on their own bread and filled with
the local deli fixings of your choice - delicious! The whitewashed timber-fitted space features a cosy antresol and
basement as well, and the breakfast and lunch specials
warrant return visits to this completely original and relaxed
establishment at all times of day.QE‑4, ul. Św. Antoniego
15, tel. (+48) 733 80 81 34,
Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. U­G­W
As far as sports bars go, this is the best in Wrocław. A nice
balance is struck between the intimate, modern interior
of creme-coloured booths, all with a good view of one
of the 10 flatscreens (they also have a projector), and the
antiquated black and white sports photo wallpaper and
outdated athletic equipment on the walls. There’s also
a simple, sparse and not at all cheap menu of modern
American food, with the specialty being steaks fried on a
hot volcanic stone. Very professional service comes from
young ladies who are clearly runway models on their off
days, and the pub atmosphere is only let down by the lack
of good beer. Nonetheless, with sidewalk seating as well
as a share of Wrocław’s best beer garden in front of the
White Stork Synagogue when the weather is cooperative,
we’d say Winners has got Guinness Pub beaten handily.
QE‑4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 519 54 18 94, www. Open 12:00 - 24:00. G­W
Located underground in the catacombs of Partisan Hill,
this is one of the most unique venues in Wrocław, not only
for its singular location, but the plethora of pursuits they
offer in addition to pizza and 70 types of beer (as if you
need more). A wonderland for lads (and ladies too), Wicar’s
features 6 flatscreen TVs streaming matches, 7 free foosball
tables and 2 free electronic dart boards. On top of that they
host concerts and karaoke nights, have an outdoor grill in
warm weather, and there was a large group poker game
going on when we dropped in. Foosball tournaments take
place on Tuesdays, as do workshops for honing your skills.
Get your game on.QB‑4, ul. Piotra Skargi 18A, tel. (+48)
887 56 66 65, Open 16:00 - 24:00,
Thu 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. G­W


Photo by Karol Grzenia

Yet another glorious Zakąski Przekąski, and not even 10
metres from Nagi Kamerdyner. In this case, everything from beer to whiskey, coffee to Burn energy drink, tartar
to herring - costs a slim 5zł coin, making Ambasada so
packed at night that you might not even get a glimpse of
the slightly upscale interior covered in old travel agency
adverts and transatlantic posters. High ceilings, soft
lighting and a long bar, this embassy draws a slightly older
crowd and the high volume makes new acquaintances
that much more attainable.QA‑3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 8-11,
tel. (+48) 71 337 38 18. Open 24hrs. U­G­W
An absolutely fantastic boozer that also operates as
an esteemed photography gallery (,
‘The Naked Butler’ captures the outlaw elegance of
Prohibition-era America with music from the 1920s and
‘30s and interrogation lamps. With above-average hot
and cold Polish dishes for 8zł and an all-too-convenient
location in the courtyard underneath the legendary
Manana Cafe, you never know when we might be stool
pigeoning at the bar with our brim pulled low over a
plate of bigos and a beer, or mingling with high society
at one of their art openings.QA‑3, ul. Św. Mikołaja
8-11, tel. (+48) 71 342 00 11, www.nagikamerdyner.
pl. Open 17:00 - 02:00, Thu 17:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat
17:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Sun. U­G
As unlikely as the combo may sound, Setka (the Polish
name for a 100ml glass of hard alcohol) is where Las
Vegas meets the former People’s Republic of Poland in
a brash, loud, and fun drinking den that’s bursting at
the seams on most nights. With a slot-machine-esque
backlit menu board featuring the likes of herring, lard,
and goulash displayed smack dab in the middle, a
garishly multicoloured ceiling, and a slightly irritated
female voice reading the order numbers over the mic,
this is a blast from the past dressed to please presentday bar-hoppers.QA‑3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 50a,
tel. (+48) 71 715 60 60, Open
10:00 - 06:00. G­W
January - April 2016



An artsy bohemian headquarters by day, this tiny
Seccessionist space becomes one of the sloppiest,
most unhinged student clubs in Wrocław on weekends,
with the party going on until dawn o’clock. As drunken
revellers bump into the DJ booth, the masses writhe
to skipping recordings of everything from classic MJ
to the Doors to Goran Bregovic. So chock-a-block with
shimmying students and hipsters that dancers obstruct
the door, so start testing your moves on the approach
‘cause you’re going right into the frying pan, friend.
QB‑3, ul. Kuźnicza 29a, tel. (+48) 71 343 92 68, www. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 04:00. U­N­X­W

This raucous courtyard (or ‘passageway’) five minutes
from the market square is one of Wrocław’s most
popular and legendary clubbing destinations. Packed
with over a dozen bars and clubs inside a space of
less then 50 metres, you almost expect it to be fair
game to take your drink with you as you go door to
door exploring each one (it’s not). While the venues
here change often, some mainstays like Niebo and
Bezsenność have been highlights of the city’s drinking
scene for what seems like forever.
Once a somewhat offbeat alternative to drinking
on the market square, in recent years this historic
passageway has been renovated and gone full
mainstream with banners that welcome tourists and
young girls who seem to have forgotten to finish
dressing handing out leaflets. An obvious effort to
keep some order and crack down on outside drinks
is also now being made; to this end gates have been
installed at both ends, where you can expect guards
to tell you to lose that vodka bottle, and even frisk
your purse for whatever else you’ve got squirrelled
away. As a result, the neighbouring space in front of
the bank at the corner of ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego and
ul. Ruska (A-3) has become a total free-for-all of preentry binge drinking.
If you favour a quiet drink in sophisticated
surroundings, you’ll want to stay as far away from this
hedonist haven as possible; Pasaż Niepolda parties all
night, sustaining an unprecedented level of energy,
noise and sloppiness all the way through to morning.
It’s a spectacle that has to be witnessed, though
may not be to everyone’s taste, particularly since the
quality of bars here has declined of late. Officially
addressed at ul. Ruska 51 (E-4), Pasaż Niepolda is
just west of the centre in a courtyard connecting
Ruska and Św. Antoniego Streets. To find it make
your first left off Ruska after crossing ul. Kazimierza
Wielkiego (A-3).
50 Wrocław In Your Pocket

Pasaż Niepolda’s longest tenured club and arguably still
its best. Wrocław’s sophisticated singles gather amid a
decadent background of comfy sofas, stark concrete walls
and thrift-store furnishings that balance the romanticism
of faded olde world grandeur and the sexiness of an
underworld speakeasy. Weekends host legendary dance
parties, while work days are more low-key with everything
from cool 60s tracks to smoky jazz tunes on the speakers,
as well as the common occurrence of some of the city’s
top concerts in this venue that good bands seem to go
out of their way to try and play in. A must visit.QE‑4, ul.
Ruska 51 (Pasaż Niepolda), tel. (+48) 570 66 95 70, www. Open 19:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
19:00 - 05:00. U­E­X
If you come on a popular night Domówka is not so much a
club, but an experience. Once you’ve gotten past the facecontrol, entrance, security and coat-check you’ll stroll into a
packed ballroom-style scene all centred around a massive
elevated dance-floor with a hypnotic vibe. The crowd is a
bit older and decked-out to be sure, which means there’s
eye-candy in every direction and very yuppie prices. The
tile and brick wall styling is somehow cheesy and chic at
the same time, and the coordinated light displays that
continually scan the room will leave you mesmerised on a
Friday or Saturday night. Bring your camera, your weekend
wallet, and dancing shoes, and Domówka will deliver you
to dance party paradise.QA‑3, Rynek 39, tel. (+48) 508
15 69 12, Open 21:00 - 04:00,
Thu 21:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:30. Closed Mon, Tue,
Sun. X­W
Reckoned by many to be the best night out in Wrocław,
Mañana is certainly reliable for a raucous weeknight raveup and well-loved by all those who live for long nights.
Don’t let the lack of a proper dancefloor prevent you from
doing your Travolta - spontaneous outbreaks of disco
fever are rife and encouraged. The scruffy furnishings, red
lighting and cheeky photos on the wall exemplify the

balance between sexiness and silliness embodied by the
randy retro-chic clientele, and Mañana’s down-to-earth
attitude and funky playlist of favourites from the last 50
years make it one of the most appealing places in the city
to squander your brain cells. With the addition of a VIP room
and the opening of the large summer terrace there’s now
even more space to investigate the lineup of Wrocław’s
lookers.QE‑4, ul. Św. Mikołaja 8-11, tel. (+48) 71 343 43
70, Open 17:00 - 04:00, Thu 17:00 05:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 07:00, Sun 18:00 - 03:00. G
One of Wrocław’s most original venues, Nietota is a
place for artsy discourse, self-destructive decadence and
debauchery. An awful lot of time has gone into the decor
with almost every surface covered in highly-illustrative
original artwork that gives the space a grotesque, creepycool nacht-cabaret atmosphere where concerts and
theatre troops take the stage between weekend DJ nights.
Completely unique in style and atmosphere, the drinks
list is also exceptional with Lindeman’s cherry lambic to
candy the lips of the ladies and delicious Czech Litovel on
draught. Well worth seeking out.QA‑3, ul. Kazimierza
Wielkiego 50, tel. (+48) 664 00 76 10. Open 15:00 - 04:00,
Sun 16:00 - 02:00. E­G­W
The scene of some of the hottest weekend parties in
Wrocław at the moment, the newly renovated PRIV directly
collaborates with a network of clubs in London, resulting
in the regular appearance of some of the biggest names
in the UK’s club scene handling the DJ decks. Of course it
can feel a bit unfriendly at the door, but once inside you’ll
find an intimate club with a modern greyscale design,
amazing sound, VIP room (for up to 20 peeps), lights and
eye-candy convulsing on two dance floors - one devoted
to house music, and the other R’n’B.QB‑3, Rynek 36/37,
tel. (+48) 609 66 96 96. Open Thu, Fri, Sat only 22:00 04:00. X­W

Describing themselves as “high-end and ultra-modern,”
Malawi offers all the pleasures you’d seek in this type
of locale: that is, pole dancing, striptease, massages,
and a six-person bath, where you’d presumably be
accompanied by attractive women and not just your
mates. Located a 12-minutes away by foot from the
market square.QE‑4, ul. Aleksandra Zelwerowicza
18A, tel. (+48) 508 50 83 93, www.malawi.wroclaw.
pl. Open 21:00 - 06:00. X

January - April 2016


There’s always plenty of colour in Wrocław, even in winter. | © CCat8 - dollar photo club

Wrocław Sightseeing
Built upon dozens of islands, the river is never far away - nor is an eye-opening
view (see above). From ancient architecture to modish murals and Soviet-era
neons, Wrocław has it all and more; so put that drink down and go discover all
there is to see and do in this incredible city.

Of all the cities in Poland, Wrocław possesses perhaps
the most convoluted and turbulent history of them all.
Known under dozens of different names as it was passed
repeatedly between four countries (and the numerous
kingdoms that preceded them), Wrocław was one of
the most culturally and architecturally diverse cities in
Central Europe before being reduced to rubble a mere 65
years ago. As the city proudly and painstakingly rebuilt
itself, the post-war period saw a new wave of migrants
from today’s western Ukraine enrich not only Wrocław’s
ethnic makeup, but also its cultural wealth as many
cultural treasures from Lwów were transplanted here.
Since shedding the yoke of communism in 1989 and
being ‘rediscovered’ by the west, Wrocław has firmly
established itself among Prague and Kraków as one of
Eastern Europe’s top tourist destinations and one of the
undisputed highlights of Poland.

If we think about Wrocław’s city centre in terms of districts,
there are three essential areas that visitors shouldn’t
allow themselves to miss. The first is obviously the Old
Town, with the marvellously restored Market Square at
its centre and its maze of cobbled streets, canals, bridges
and church spires. Essentially bound by the Odra River
to the north and the Fosa Miejska - or city moat - to the
south, this area that was once encircled by the city’s
medieval defensive walls is where you’ll find the bulk of
Wrocław’s historical monuments and museums, as well
as many beautiful University buildings, soaring churches,
and the city’s infamous gnomes. The Old Town also
includes the ‘District of Mutual Respect’ (E/F-4) - a unique
neighbourhood southwest of the market square which
includes almost side by side the places of worship of four
different denominations, including the city’s only surviving
Jewish synagogue.

The Old Town may be the heart of Wrocław, but its soul is in
Ostrów Tumski (C/D-2, p.64). This ‘Cathedral Island’ within
easy walking distance northeast of the market square was
the first part of Wrocław to be settled by Slavic tribes in the
9th century. Since a bishopric was built there in 1000AD
it has remained an important place of royal and religious
significance, and home to the city’s most important
Finally, no visit to Wrocław is complete without a trip east
of the Old Town to Centennial Hall (I-4, p.67). The city’s
only UNESCO World Heritage site, this outstanding piece
of architecture turned 100 in 2013 and is surrounded by
beautiful parks and gardens, including Wrocław’s Zoo and a
spectacular multimedia fountain (closed for winter). Enjoy
exploring Wrocław.


Woodcut of ‘Bressla’ from the Nuremburg Chronicle, 1493

As a city under constantly shifting rule, Wrocław has
been known by many names throughout its history. In
fact, the national status of Wrocław has changed more
often than any other city in Europe. Passing hands
from the Polish Piasts (1000-1335), to the Kingdom
of Bohemia (1335-1526), to the Austrian Habsburgs
(1526-1741), to the Kingdom of Prussia (1741-1871),
into the German Empire and Third Reich (1871-1945),
and finally back to Poland (1945-today, and hopefully
tomorrow as well), Wrocław cannot be claimed as
the by-rights homeland of any one nation or people
(despite the past efforts of politically motivated
revisionist historians to prove otherwise. The city’s
makeup has always been culturally and religiously
diverse, with Poles, Germans, Bohemians, Austrians and
Jews all making significant contributions to Wrocław’s
development. With so many influences and upheavals,
Wrocław (as we know it today) has seen more than
its fair share of names used in common parlance
throughout the years, including Vratislava, Wrotizla,
Wretslaw, Vraclav, Vretslav, Prezlav, Presslaw and
Bresslau (to name but a few).
It’s not uncommon today to still see and hear
Wrocław referred to by its old German name, ‘Breslau’,
particularly by and for the German nostalgia tourists
who come here to seek their roots. The Polish name
‘Wrocław’ apparently predates the German name, and
is thought to have been derived from the name of the
Czech sovereign ‘Vratislav’. Variants of the German name
began appearing in documents shortly after Poland lost
control of the region in 1335. Some sources claim that
Frederick the Great changed the city’s name to Breslau
in 1741, though this is subject to historical dispute.
The problem of Wrocław’s complex titular nomenclature
was a challenge historian Norman Davies tackled when
writing his thorough history of the city; Davies eventually
settled on ‘Microcosm’ as the title of his excellent book in
acknowledgement of the city’s standing as a constant
crossroads for Eastern European cultures and concerns,
and the unfairness of putting such a wide-ranging study
under a title with a limited representation of its history.
And while the temptation to re-title this little tome
‘Microcosm In Your Pocket’ is ever-present, we’ve got
enough connotative problems as it is…
January - April 2016


The Old Town

The market square and Town Hall

If there’s room for a little wide-eyed rambling in your
schedule, you’ll find no more rewarding experience than
meandering around the Old Town. While you’re at it,
keep your eyes peeled for Wrocław’s adorable and elusive
gnomes (p.63); there are over 300 of these little rascals
running about the city centre, but you’ll only spot them if
you’re paying attention. Kids love them so if you want to
keep the little ones engaged as you explore the city, set
them to gnome-hunting.
The first port of call in Wrocław, and that which the entire
city is laid out around, is the Market Square, or Rynek
(A/B-3, p.55). This is not only the city’s municipal centre,
but also the social and cultural centre of Wrocław: a
place of happenings, concerts and performance art, lined
with terraced cafes and restaurants. Note that while the
Rynek was originally built in the 13th century, much of
what you see today is in fact a façade, quite literally. The
square was ravaged by fighting in World War II and had
to be rebuilt almost entirely in the 1950s. Though strict
attention was given to original details, particularly those of
the frontage, much of what lies behind them experienced
understandable updating (though a medieval cellar never
stops being a medieval cellar). Proudly square-shouldered
in the square’s centre stands the Town Hall - a miraculous
survivor from the 13th century and the city centre’s defining
landmark. After exploring the three passageways packed
with shops and bars that run under the Town Hall you
should head for neighbouring Plac Solny (A-3) - known
these days as the Flower Market, and always a bright sight
thanks to the scores of flower sellers on call here twentyfour hours a day in the event of matrimonial emergency,
ready to meet the requirements of empty-fisted Romeos.
From Plac Solny you are only a short walk from St.
Elizabeth’s Church (A-3, p.56), the city’s tallest. Stunning
views of the city can be had at the top, but be warned that
the climb can be crippling for those who haven’t seen a
54 Wrocław In Your Pocket

© Gosiek-B,

Stairmaster for some time. Only a block north from there
you’ll find Wrocław’s smallest and most engaging street Stare Jatki (A-2, p.61) - en route to the stunning University
(B-2, p.56), whose interiors are quite frankly far too plush
for grotty students; don’t move on before seeing the
University Church (yes, even the university has a church),
Aula Leopoldina - the grand Baroque ceremonial hall, or
the panoramic city views from the Mathematical Tower.
From Plac Uniwersytecki take a walk east to investigate
the Baroque majesty of the Ossolineum palace
and gardens (B-2, p.62) - home to one of the most
important libraries and national archives in the country
(and open to the public) - before dog-legging on to
Plac Nankiera (B-2). This lovely street (not ‘plac,’ as you’ll
notice) is lined with churches and leads you straight to
Wrocław’s amazing indoor marketplace, Hala Targowa
(C-2, p.76). Here you can pick-up fresh produce and
sandwich fixings for a riverside picnic, buy bargain brica-brac and satisfy whatever obscure shopping needs
you have while getting a colourful look at locals living
their colourful lives. And, of course, tasty, dirt cheap
pierogi (what, your radar’s not going off?).
From there, locals will not forgive you for missing out on
the Racławice Panorama (C-3, p.60), especially after all
the trouble Poland took to get it on display for you. A
140m-long canvas depicting Kościuszko’s legendary (and
short-lived) victory over the Russians in 1794, this is one of
the only remaining panoramic paintings in the world - a
genre that was actually quite popular in the 19th century.
If you follow the Fosa Miejska - the remnants of the Old
Town’s medieval moat - you’ll end up at Partisan Hill
(B/C-4, p.61), a spooky windswept ruin that once made
up part of Wrocław’s defensive fortifications. Follow it a bit
further and you’ll end up just behind the restored Royal
Palace (A-3, p.60) - Wrocław’s most modern and essential



This outfit offers free English-language walking tours of
the Old Town every day at 10:00, and ‘Jewish Wrocław’
every Monday and Thursday at 14:00, Fridays at 17:30.
All tours leave from beside the Fredro monument on
the market square, or nearby in front of Bank Zachodni
WBK (Rynek 9/11) if the monument is obstructed;
just look for the ‘Free Walking Tours’ sign and have
some cash ready to tip these fine people at the
tour’s conclusion. Additional tours are also available,
so check their website.Qtel. (+48) 513 87 58 14,
This outfit organises airport transfers, walking tours
and also golf cart tours of the Old Town. Tours around
Lower Silesia and out of town are also available, as are
less traditional tours and activities like shooting, laser
tag, culinary workshops, bird watching and much more.
Reservations can be made by phone or online.Qtel.
(+48) 793 15 43 30, Tours in
English, 350zł.
With over 30 different tours of Wrocław and Silesia
available, these folks can arrange golf cart tours, river
cruises, whatever you want. Tours available in English,
Spanish, German, Russian and Polish starting at 219zł.
Call one day in advance.Qtel. (+48) 513 94 69 46,

© badahos, Dollar Photo Club

While you’re taking in the medieval majesty of the
Wrocław’s market square (Rynek), bear in mind that it
was almost totally rebuilt from a pile of ruins after the
Siege of 1945. Such was the remarkable dedication to
detail of Wrocław’s ‘pioneers’ - those who resettled here
from the east after WWII - that today tourists can even
admire a replica of the stone pillory (south east of the
Town Hall, B-3) used to flog people from 1492 to well
into the 18th century. In the post-war period the statue
of famous writer Aleksander Fredro (seated southwest
of the Town Hall, A-3) was also brought from Lviv in 1956
to replace the statue that had previously occupied the
space up till the end of the war - that of Kaiser Wilhelm.

Demonstrating Wrocław’s diversity with theme tours
that trace the city’s different cultures and religions,
Wrocław Silesia Tours offer tours around the city in golf
carts, mini-vans, historic trams, or on foot. They can
also take you to places a bit further afield such as Książ,
Świdnica, Jelenia Góra or Auschwitz. Tours available in
English, German, Spanish and Portuguese. Call one day
in advance to negotiate prices.Qtel. (+48) 509 96 00 34,

Wrocław’s market square and much of the urban grid
around it was laid out by city planners in 1241. It was
then and remains even now one of the largest squares
of its kind in Europe, and the magnificent Town Hall
(Ratusz) at its centre is a masterpiece of medieval
architecture. Work began on the city’s administrative
seat in the late 13th century and continued for 250
years, resulting in the eclectic edifice covered in
decorative embellishments that we see today. Today
the beautiful ensemble contains the Museum of
Burgher Art (p.60), as well as numerous restaurants,
cafes and bars.

Michał Filarowski - tel. +48 793 154 330

Ranging from Gothic to Art Nouveau, the impressive
facades of the townhouses lining the market square
also deserve closer inspection, one notable exception
being the drab ten-storey office building at Rynek
11. Completed in 1931 the structure was designed
by Heinrich Rump and offers a glimpse of how the
market square may have looked had a ludicrous project
to modernise the historic centre come to fruition.
It was the idea of Max Berg - creator of the concrete
bliss called Centennial Hall (p.68) - to demolish the
buildings surrounding the Rynek, replacing them with
20 storey concrete towers. After much deliberation city
authorities abandoned the plan, in the process saving
the Wrocław loved by all today.QA/B-3.

office@ -

January - April 2016




Among the oldest churches in Wrocław and the tallest
buildings in the Old Town, St. Elizabeth’s is unmistakable.
A church has stood on this site since the 12th century, but
the current Gothic structure dates to the 14th century. This
is not the luckiest church in the world: it was destroyed in
1529 by heavy hail, suffered severe damage in WWII and
then was the victim of a mysterious fire in 1976. Today the
church serves as a military garrison church. Inside you’ll
find impressive Gothic and Renaissance altars and over 100
tombs of once prominent citizens. From April to September
(weather dependent), the highlight is the 91m tower (the
original tower was 128m), but don’t underestimate the
climb of over 300 steps. The view from the top is more than
worth the arduous journey and 5zł.QA‑3, ul. Św. Elżbiety
1/1, tel. (+48) 71 343 16 38, www.kosciolgarnizon. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 13:00 - 18:00. No
visiting during mass please.

© Paweł Mruk | dollar photo club

Founded by the Jesuits in 1670, the magnificent
Baroque main building of Wrocław University and the
adjacent Church of the Blessed Name of Jesus (p.56)
were built on the site of a derelict Piast castle after a land
grant from Emperor Leopold. In 1811, Prussia secularised
all church property and took over administration of the
university. The dying days of WWII saw the university
library turned into a makeshift HQ for the occupying
Nazis, and at the war’s end the German faculty were
all but exiled, with the replacement professors who
arrived from the University of Lwów forming the first
Polish faculty to teach here. Past professors include
Alois Alzheimer (who gave his name to the disease) and
Robert Bunsen (who didn’t invent the Bunsen burner
but improved it to such a degree that it was named
in his honour). Since the start of the 20th century the
university has produced a remarkable 9 Nobel Prize
winners, and over 40,000 new students are enrolled
each year.
Despite its ongoing function as an academic institution,
the main university building is open to tourists as a
museum. Three tickets are available, giving you access
to 2, 3 or 4 rooms, plus a free audioguide (available in
English, Polish, German, Russian, Spanish or Italian). We
recommend you splash out for all four rooms, but be
aware that they are laid out over four floors and there
is no elevator.
The first of the University’s main highlights is Aula
Leopoldina - a ceremonial hall exploding with
cherubs and Baroque swag. The painting on the ceiling
depicts the apotheosis of God’s wisdom, while portraits
of the university’s founding fathers ring the walls; years
ago four of them were stolen and two have yet to be
returned. Winding upstairs past the odd exhibition
and a line in the floor demarcating the 51st parallel which runs right through the building - your visit to
the museum ends on the terrace of the university’s
‘Mathematical Tower’ which affords panoramic
views of the Old Town and Odra River.QB‑2, Pl.
Uniwersytecki 1, tel. (+48) 71 375 26 18, www. Open 10:00 - 15:30; closed
Wed. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 10-12/6-8zł depending on how many
rooms you wish to visit. N
56 Wrocław In Your Pocket

This massive church was the second to be built on the
left bank of the Odra River, after St. Adalbert’s. During the
Reformation it was taken over by the Protestants and was
not returned to the Catholic Church until after WWII. Its
most striking features are the 12th-century Romanesque
portal that was moved here from the Benedictine Abbey considered to be Wrocław’s most valuable relic from that era
- and the unique ‘Penitants’ Bridge’ spanning the two soaring,
yet stunted towers whose cupolas were never replaced after
WWII. Climb the tower for thrilling views of the Old Town
while traversing the open-air bridge 46m above ground.
QB‑3, ul. Szewska 10, www.mariamagdalena.wroclaw.
pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00. No visiting during mass please.
This Late Baroque church has
been ranked among the most
beautiful in Central Europe,
and makes a worthwhile visit.
Built by the Jesuits as part of
the university complex in the
late 17th century on the site of
the Piast castle, a section of the
original castle structure can still
be seen in the northern sacristy
- the alcove at the far end of the
church. The interior, painted to imitate marble and gilt, is
very well preserved and most of the furnishings are original.
Look up to see the fresco on the vaults; the figures are 18thcentury depictions of natives from the Americas, Africa, Asia
and Europe. Visitors are even given an audioguide which is
available in seven different languages. Unfortunately the
church is closed for visiting until March, after which it
will be open 11:00 - 15:00. Donations suggested, but not
required.QB‑2, Pl. Uniwersytecki 1, tel. (+48) 71 344 94

Anyone who has an unindoctrinated knowledge of World
War II history or who has
spent more than 15 minutes
in Poland, is probably familiar
with the subject of this memorial which remembers the
22,000 Polish military officers,
policemen, intelligentsia and
POWs murdered by the NKVD
on Stalin’s orders in 1940.
Designed by Warsaw sculptor Tadeusz Tchórzewski, the
striking monument depicts the sword-wielding Angel of
Death on a high pedestal over the figure of Katyń Pieta - the
Matron of the Homeland despairing over the body of a murdered prisoner of war. Symbolic granite walls/graves flank
the scene, with the names of the POW camps and places of
mass murder inscribed on them. Anguished, terrifying and
gruesome in turn, with detail down to the bullethole in the
back of the fallen officer’s head, this evocative monument
was unveiled in 1999 and can be found in the park next to
the Racławice Panorama.QD‑3, Słowacki Park.
When you’re tired of gazing at Wrocław’s multitude of
cherubs, gargoyles and bearded national heroes clutching
important pens and looking frightfully serious, hike on
down to this intersection to have a look at an entirely
different take on public art. The wonderfully lifelike bronze
statues descending into the earth are a memorial to the
introduction of martial law on December 13, 1981, and the
hordes of people who disappeared (‘went underground’)
in the middle of the night courtesy of the militia. The work
of Jerzy Kalina, the 14 statues were erected here in the
middle of the night in 2005 on the 24th anniversary of the
introduction of martial law, though the prophetic moulds
were actually made several years before the events they
commemorate.QA‑5, Corner of ul. Piłsudskiego and ul.
The University of Wrocław presents plenty of superb
photographic opportunities, but the most popular has to
be the naked swordsman proudly exhibiting himself at the
entrance of the main building. The work of Hugo Lederer,
the splendidly anatomical sculpture was erected in 1904
and prompted complaints from parish priests that students
would be morally corrupted by the statue’s naked form.
Early grumblings were countered by the legend that the
statue represents an extravagant gambler who squandered
all but his sword in drunken card games - thus serving as an
example to the university’s 30,000+ students. Town mayor
George Bender agreed and the statue has stood ever since.
QB‑2, Pl. Uniwersytecki.

QA‑2, ul. Jatki 24, tel. (+48) 71 344 41 16. Open
10:00 - 18:00.
QA‑3, Rynek - Ratusz 24, tel. (+48) 71 342 22 91, Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
QA‑3, Rynek 14, tel. (+48) 71 344 31 11, www. Open 09:00 - 19:00. W

Full contents online:

Completed in 2012,
Wrocław boasts the tallest building in Poland,
which rises some 212m
into the atmosphere.
Comprising a small city
in and of itself, with residential apartments, offices, shops, restaurants,
entertainment and more
over its 50 floors, tourists
have plenty of reasons to
visit this modern architectural marvel, including
the largest pool hall in PL,
a 24-lane bowling alley
(see Leisure), an oversized Salvador Dali sculpture, and an amazing interactive installation of 60 screens that react to the movement of visitors as they engage the 40m2 exhibit on the
first floor (note though that this isn’t always running).
The highlight, however, is the year-round indoor viewing point on the 49th floor. At a height of 200 metres,
this is the highest panoramic view point in Poland, and
accessed by an elevator which whisks you to the top in
less than a minute. Located only minutes from the Old
Town, take trams 7 or 20, getting off at ‘Wielka.’QE‑6,
ul. Powstańców Śląskich 95, www.galeria.skytower.
pl. View point open Mon-Thu 09:00 - 20:30, Fri-Sat
09:00 - 21:30, Sun 10:00 - 21:30. Access is granted
every 30mins on the :00 and :30 marks. View point
admission Mon-Fri 11/6zł, Sat-Sun 15/8zł; children
3 and under free. Ticket office on level +1; clearly
marked signs will guide you there. N
January - April 2016



© sidbradypus / Dollar Photo Club

This old air raid shelter just west of the Old Town has
been resurrected as a place for contemporary art in
Wrocław. The round and concrete above-ground
bunker has been cleverly adapted with an elevator at
its centre which whizzes you up to the fantastic 6th
floor cafe, which features a terrace and great views, and
may just be the highlight of visiting here. As for the art,
the permanent exhibit focuses on contemporary art
from the 20th Century with a strong Wrocław presence
and they have numerous temporary exhibitions
(see our Culture & Events section to see what’s on).
The most striking pieces in the whole collection are
outside the museum itself. Local artist Stanisław
Dróżdż’s Hour-glass on the facade of the building
and the amazing and enormous Train to Heaven
sculpture of a vertical locomotive nearby will make
you get your camera out. To get there, hop on trams
3, 10, 20, 23, or 33 (quite a bit of choice there) at the
‘Rynek’ stop, getting off 3 stops later at ‘Pl. Strzegomski.’
Keep in mind that this is only a temporary location - a
new museum headquarters is set to spring up on ul.
Purkyniego (C-3), near the Racławice Panorama, the
Museum of Architecture, and the Academy of Fine Arts.
QPl. Strzegomski 2a (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 356
42 67, Open 12:00 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission free
for permanent exhibit; temporary exhibits 10/5zł,
family ticket 15zł, Thu admission free. U
58 Wrocław In Your Pocket

Like all the best museums in Poland, Wrocław’s
Archaeological Museum is located inside a building
that’s a museum in itself. In this instance the city’s former
15th-century Arsenal plays host to the usual suspects
found lurking in most museums of its type. There are
English captions now for many exhibits, while others,
such as the gargoyles and the reconstructed thatched
house fascinate without the need to know more. With
four free permanent exhibits - Stone Age and early
Bronze Age, Bronze Age, Iron Age and Medieval Silesia,
displays include everyday objects from these times such
as weapons, ornaments and tools; note that temporary
exhibits sometimes require an additional paid ticket. In
the same building you’ll also find the Military Museum.
QA‑2, ul. Cieszyńskiego 9, tel. (+48) 71 347 16 96, Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free for permanent
exhibits. U
Located inside a gorgeous 16th century monastery,
the city’s ‘architecture museum’ is actually more of a
decorative and applied arts museum, with much of
the collections consisting of decorative details from
the built environment that were lost during WWII.
Permanent displays include beautiful examples of
stained glass from the 12th century to the Art Nouveau
era, a collection of tiled ceramic stoves, intricate door
handles, a selection of truly ghastly gargoyles, and a
large model of the city as it was in 1740, which clearly
shows its status as a fortress surrounded by water.
Keeps your eyes peeled for occasional temporary
exhibits as well, which usually require an admission fee.
QC‑3, ul. Bernardyńska 5, tel. (+48) 71 344 82 78, Open 11:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 16:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free
for permanent exhibits. U
Located outside the Old Town in the gorgeous 18thcentury Neo-Baroque summer palace of Wrocław’s
bishops, this under-appreciated museum traces Silesian
folk culture and customs. The best part may be the top
floor where life-sized dolls are arranged in quaint scenes
of life in the region before 1945. It won’t take you long
to see it, but the national costumes and farm equipment
offer a glimpse of life you won’t find in urban Wrocław.
And the museum’s strange fondness for the definite
article in the English labels is worth a giggle. To get there
take tram 3 from ‘Rynek,’ getting off at ‘Pl. Zgody.’QH‑5,
ul. Traugutta 111/113, tel. (+48) 71 344 33 13, www. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Thu
09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5/3zł, children
under 7 free, groups of over 10 pay 2zł per person,
Sat free. Admission free with a ticket to the Racławice
Panorama. U­N

The other half of the 15thcentury arsenal that houses
the Archaeology Museum
is, appropriately, the Military
Museum. Not surprisingly, the
medieval halls are filled with
arms and weapons of all sorts,
many of them dating to the
18th century. Helmets, swords and guns are the forte here,
and you probably know better than we do if it’s worth the
hour of your time it’ll consume.QA‑2, ul. Cieszyńskiego
9, tel. (+48) 71 347 16 96, Open 10:00 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free
for permanent exhibit; temporary exhibits 15/10zł.
Wrocław’s National Museum houses one of the largest
collections of Polish art. Before the 18th century this means
almost exclusively religious art: altarpieces, urns for relics,
busts of saints and the like. Later parts of the collection
also include applied arts and quite a few pieces on national
themes (uprisings and saints figure heavily in Polish history).
Unfortunately, the best bits are moving to the ‘Four Domes
Pavilion’ at Centennial Hall - which will open as a new
branch of the National Museum dedicated to contemporary
art sometime in 2016 - and aren’t on view at the moment.
QD‑3, Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 5, tel. (+48) 71 372 51
50, Open 10:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon. From April open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł, students
under 26 (with ID) 1zł, children under 7 free, Sat free for
permanent exhibitions, groups of over 10 people 5zł per
person. Admission free with a ticket from the nearby
Racławice Panorama. U
Housed inside 1929’s former Central Post Office, this
magnificent building was one of the first high-rises in
Wrocław and is easily recognisable from the Old Town thanks
to the crown of satellite dishes on its roof. Today it houses
one of the city’s most idiosyncratic and fascinating museums,
displaying the complex history of Poland’s postal service
and the development of communications technology from
the 16th century to the present day. Over two floors you’ll
see a wealth of paintings and graphics, postage stamps,
mailboxes, mail carriages, uniforms, decorative letter scales
and other instruments including early telegram machines,
telephones, radios and computers. The unique and
engrossing experience even includes information in English
and is a great way to change your attitude towards PL’s postal
service from one of frustration to admiration and wonder.
Visiting takes about 1 hour and is recommended. English
language guided group tours are available if arranged in
advance.QC‑3, ul. Krasińskiego 1, tel. (+48) 71 343 67
65, Open 10:00 - 15:00, Wed
10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue. Admission
8/6zł, Sun free, Weds 15:00 - 17:00 2zł; family ticket 15zł.
Groups over 10 people 5zł per person. N


See how Wroclaw fought against communism.
Ask about the possibility of seeing the hidden room!

Pl. Solny 11, Wrocław |

In addition to being a fantastically
cheap Polish restaurant, Konspira
is a self-declared ‘Centre for
Historical Education.’ The interior
is designed to emulate the 1980s,
while giving guests a glimpse into
the Soviet era via newspapers,
posters, political cartoons and
other iconography on the walls. None of this would
be particularly useful to naive non-Polish speakers,
but Konspira has another rabbit in its hat that’s
worth revealing. One of the restaurant’s wardrobes is
actually a secret passageway into a hidden room that
recreates an ‘80s Polish apartment, filled with everyday
household items, toys, appliances, and even police
batons and riot gear from the martial law days. It’s a
unique look into the past, and the fact that the staff
isn’t that forthcoming about it (you might have to ask)
almost makes the act of entry feel cooly clandestine.
This entire establishment is a bit of a museum, and
though you’ll get more out of it with a local guide,
even without one it’s worth investigating; and the food
is certainly worth staying for.QA‑3, Pl. Solny 11, tel.
(+48) 796 32 66 00, Open 12:00 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00.
January - April 2016


This unique 15 by 140m panoramic painting depicts
the first battle of the Kościuszko Uprising, in which
General Tadeusz Kościuszko orchestrated and led
an armed peasant rebellion against Russian rule
in a heroic bid for Polish independence in 1794.
Kosciuszko’s rag-tag scythe-wielding troops won the
day, but the Uprising was ultimately doomed and
Poland wouldn’t be truly self-governing until the 20th
century. That hasn’t stopped the short-lived victory
from being an enduring source of Polish pride to this
day, however.
The Panorama was created in a burst of patriotic fervour
by Jan Styka and Wojciech Kossak in Lwów over 9
months, and completed in 1894. Their work, displayed
in a rotunda built especially for it, was a popular and financial - success. After WWII, the Soviet Union,
which absorbed Lwów (now Lviv, Ukraine), sent the
painting to Wrocław. Its subject, however, was a bit too
nationalistic for the local Communist authorities, who
rejected several bids to display it. The current building
was completed in 1967, but the Panorama itself was
not installed for display until 1985. Unfortunately
almost nothing has changed since then, and the overpriced attraction is run in the same manner it was 30
years ago. Still, an unbelievable 1,600 people (including
dozens of school groups) file through each day, so
don’t expect to just walk right in; admission occurs
every half-hour and you’ll very likely have to wait. The
painting is augmented with lights and artificial terrain
to make the experience more ‘real’ as you are narrated
through the battle by a taped lecture on your own
private headset which is available in an astounding 17
languages (including Esperanto). Poles will consider it
their patriotic duty to come here, but the experience
may resonate less positively with other tourists, unless
you’re a fan of obscure and forgotten genres of 19th
century art.QC‑3, ul. Purkyniego 11, tel. (+48) 71 344
23 44, Open 09:00
- 16:00. Admission 30/23zł, family ticket 23zł per
person, children under 7 free. U

Detail of Kościuszko directing his rag-tag army.

60 Wrocław In Your Pocket


The main branch of the Wrocław City Museum, housed
inside the renovated Baroque Royal Palace, is Wrocław’s
most modern, most essential, and, quite frankly, best
museum. Purchased by Frederick the Great of Prussia
in 1750, the palace was converted to become the royal
residence of the Prussian Hohenzolern kings - a function
which it served from the 17th to 20th century. Badly
damaged during WWII, only half of the structure survived
and now houses four free permanent exhibitions: ‘1000
Years of Wrocław’, tracing the complex history of the Lower
Silesian capital from the Middle Ages to the modern day
through its art and artefacts; The Gallery of Art in Wrocław;
the meticulous recreated royal apartments; and the unique
Beyersdorf Room, decorated entirely in Dutch tiles from the
17th century. It takes the better part of a day to see it all,
but there’s a nice cafe when you need a break, and make
sure you don’t miss the regal Baroque gardens behind the
palace.QA‑3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 35, tel. (+48) 71
391 69 40, Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. English-speaking
guided tour 400zł. Audio guides in English and German
10 zł. U
The first thing you’ll probably notice about the Town Hall
(Ratusz) is that it seems to be patched together from
bits and pieces of a dozen different buildings, and in
many ways it was. Construction began at the end of the
13th century and continued - through all the changing
political and artistic forces - for about 250 years. The
Town Hall was the centre of city life up until the early
20th century, housing the Town Council, merchants’
stalls and (most importantly?) a beer cellar. The building
escaped relatively unscathed after World War II (an
estimated 10% was damaged). After reconstruction
work, it was re-opened as the Museum of Burgher Art
(Muzeum Sztuki Mieszczańskiej). Inside you can see the
remarkable Gothic interiors, a collection of silver and
other city artefacts. Unfortunately these exhibits are
poorly marked and finding your way around can be a bit
of a stab in the dark. For us, the most fun part of the Town
Hall is exploring the elaborate exterior decoration; see if
you can find scenes from Aesop’s fables, or grotesque
scenes of medieval pub life.QA‑3, Rynek, tel. (+48)
71 347 16 90, Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free for
permanent exhibits. U

If you’re walking along ul. Ks. Skargi it’s impossible to miss
the grandiose crescent-shaped structure rising above Most
Skargi. One of the few remaining ancient fortifications that
once protected the Old Town from invasion, Partisan Hill was
built between 1594 and 1598, and originally awarded the
name ‘Bastion Sakwowy’ (Saddlebag Bastion). The buildings
you see today date from the 19th century, however, when
the area was redeveloped as public recreational space. A
fearsome tower designed by Berlin architect Carl Schmidt
was added in 1867, though this was demolished during
WWII to prevent advancing Russian troops from using it
as a reference point for artillery shelling. At the start of the
Siege of 1945 the subterranean bunkers and catacombs
were used as HQ by Nazi high command, though they
relocated in March 1945 as the Red Army drew closer.
After the war the hillock was oddly re-christened ‘Partisan
Hill’ and the old cellars temporarily housed a museum.
Sadly sold to private investors in the 1990s, and having
since been occupied by beer gardens, strip clubs and
restaurants, today the area lies in complete disarray, forlorn
and forgotten - a once gleaming construction littered with
smashed bottles and spray can squiggles. At the moment a
fence feebly attempts to cordon off the crumbling arcades,
while two bars keep parts of this complex accessible to the
public - Wicar’s Pub in the cellars, and Colloseum Jazz Club
in the old observatory at the top. Partisan Hill’s legends of
Nazi tunnels and medieval torture chambers, combined
with the creepy, wind-swept loneliness of the site today,
make this place a must for those who enjoy the thrill of
urban trespassing.QB‑4, ul. Ks. Skargi.

One of Wrocław’s most engaging streets, ul. Jatki is no more
than one city block long, connecting ul. Kiełbaśnicza with
ul. Odrzańska. It’s picturesque charm is no doubt due to the
fact that it has retained its medieval character throughout
the ages; though most of the structures on Stare Jatki date
from the 17th and 18th centuries, the line of low level
buildings were constructed on medieval foundations
and some elements from the 13th century are still visible
on the south side of the street. Though in past times the
principal industry here was meat - butchered beasts filled
the wooden stalls, today the alleyway is home to numerous
artists’ studios and souvenir stalls. The defining feature of
Stare Jatki is the collection of cast iron farm animals at the
start of the street. Sculpted by Piotr Wieczorek and erected
in the 1990s this ‘Memorial to Slaughtered Animals’ was
funded by the local government, and in addition to being
one of Wrocław’s most photographed attractions, also
serves as an obstacle course for party casualties pouring
out of Klub Na Jatkach.QA‑2, ul. Jatki.


Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art
(check out Wrocław’s Polish Poster Gallery at ul.
Św. Mikołaja 54/55, E-4, if you want proof ), but when
it comes to public street graffiti, too often it steers
closer to ‘vandalism,’ rarely graduating beyond slurs,
gang signs and football allegiances. Thanks to a strong
underground art community, however, visitors to
Wrocław will encounter plenty of urban space that has
been elaborately decorated with street art that strives
to be just that: art. In fact, thanks to its own initiative
of embracing rather than rejecting the trend, Wrocław
has made itself a veritable destination for large-scale
street art. Today the city is decorated with dozens of
highly visible murals in public space, and with that
number growing all the time, urban art has emerged
as a legitimate attraction in the city.
Formerly a strictly underground art form, things started
to change in 2008 when the curators of the city’s
vanguard Galeria Awangarda organised Poland’s first
street art festival (dubbed ‘Out of Sth’) by inviting 20 of
Europe’s biggest names in urban art to do installations
throughout Wrocław. A year later cult culture hangout
Niskie Łąki helped organise the first Pink Piknik
Festival, filling the entire courtyard between ul. Ruska
and ul. Św. Antoniego (E-4) with colourful art. Further
editions of Out of Sth followed in 2010 and 2012, and
with Wrocław University and the city itself (as part
of its European Capital of Culture 2016 programme)
also contributing commissions, Wrocław has strongly
secured its status as Poland’s street art capital.
Those with an interest in street art will have no problem
tracking down some of the city’s finest examples and
we’re making it even easier. In the maps of our print
guide you’ll find many of Wrocław’s most visible murals
so you can
marked with spray paint can icon
literally use them to give yourself a self-guided tour of
the city’s mural art. We encourage you to do just that
and check out some of Wrocław’s alternative artistic
January - April 2016



Communist Poland typically calls to mind a cold, colourless
landscape of uniform concrete drabness - essentially the
antithesis of energetic and illuminated Times Square
or Las Vegas, the very pinnacles of capitalist decadence
and indecency. The little known irony here, however,
is that neon signage - which is most closely associated
with American commercialism and consumerism - was
actually prolific in the People’s Republic of Poland during
the Cold War era. After Socialist Realism died with Stalin
in the late 50s, a new, less restricted period of creative
expression began in Poland, and neon rather oddly
became the favoured medium of city authorities looking
for an inexpensive way to brighten the grey urban
landscape and create a veneer of economic prosperity at
a time when stores shelves were practically bare. During
the ‘neonisation’ programme of the 1960s and ‘70s, the
country’s most gifted architects and graphic designers
were commissioned to create unique neon advertising
for everything from Polish products and state-run
companies to cultural landmarks like cinemas, theatres,
nightclubs and train stations. Vibrant, stylish and often
incredibly creative neon signs were an integral part of the
urban landscape of communist Poland.
Though the collapse of the communist economy meant
the plug got pulled on the country’s neons back in the late
‘70s, today neon is back in vogue and the country’s signs
are being restored. Wrocław is still home to some of PL’s
most iconic and most photographed neon signs. Neon
greets visitors immediately upon arrival throughout the
Wrocław train station (B-6), and the famous ‘Dobry
Wieczór we Wrocławiu’ (Good Evening in Wrocław)
sign across the street is there to welcome you as soon
as you step foot outside (B-5). Other famous Soviet-era
neons include the entrance gate of the Wrocław Zoo
(I-4) and the animated antics of the burglar atop the PZU
building on Plac Kościuszki (A-4), while the modern,
hand-scripted sign of the Academy of Fine Arts (ul.
Traugutta 19/21, C-4) encapsulates the comeback this
art form has made in recent years. The opening of Neon
Side Club & Gallery (E-4, p.46) now gives visitors the
opportunity to admire dozens of salvaged neon signs
all in one place, while directly connecting neon to local
hipster culture. On our website you’ll find all of Wrocław’s
most electrifying neons listed with GPS coordinates
so you can use the mobile version of our website
( on your smartphone to
easily go out and get your ne-on.
62 Wrocław In Your Pocket

This stunning Baroque palace complex on the Odra riverbank
was rebuilt to its late 17th century designs after being
damaged heavily during WWII and is today one of the most
outstanding works of Baroque architecture in PL. Originally a
hospital and convent, later a college, today the magnificent
grounds are home to the Ossolineum Library - an important
research centre and national archive, the country’s oldest
still-running publishing centre and one of its largest library
collections. Established in 1817 by Józef Maksymilian
Ossoliński when he began collecting Polish manuscripts
and cultural documents in his Vienna flat, recognising their
importance to national culture after Poland was wiped from
the world map, Ossoliński’s private library became a national
institute and was eventually moved to Lviv where it expanded
generously. After post-war border changes the collection
was moved to Wrocław, however communist authorities
confiscated over 80% of it which presumably remains in Lviv
today. The collections of the Ossolineum are some of the
most valuable in the country and include manuscripts by
Polish bards Adam Mickiewicz and Juliusz Słowacki, writings
by Copernicus, and drawings by Rembrandt and Durer. The
site of regular free exhibitions (which have their own opening
hours), the Ossolineum is otherwise worth a look around
for the building itself, with the library and inner and outer
courtyards all accessible to the public.QB‑2, ul. Szewska 37,
tel. (+48) 71 344 44 71, Open 08:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00; closed Sun.
Modelled on a medieval castle, this architectural
masterpiece only a short tram ride south of the centre
shouldn’t be missed. Originally designed by Karl Klimm,
an eminent Breslau architect and the brains behind the
Zwierzyniecki Bridge (J-4), the 63m tower was completed
in 1905 and supplied water to the residents of southern
Wrocław, with the base of the building used to house
employees. From its beginnings this fairytale tower was
equipped with an electric lift to whisk visitors to the top
for panoramic views; costing 10 pfennigs, a clear day
would afford sightseers uninterrupted views of the Sudety
Mountains 100kms away, and a red flag would wave from
the top whenever viewing was deemed particularly good.
The sculptors Taschner and Bednorz added several intricate
carvings to the sandstone, including medieval style bas
reliefs depicting winged beasts engaged in gruesome
scenes, and a spectacular fountain spouting water from the
underground spring below the building. During the 1945
Siege of Breslau the tower served as a military observation
point, and in spite of heavy shelling in the immediate
vicinity survived largely unscathed. Up until the ‘80s it
continued to function as a water plant, though black with
soot and pockmarked with bullet holes. In 1995 it was
purchased by Stephan Elektronik Investment and restored
it to its former glory. Unfortunately there’s no viewing
platform at the top today, but if you make the trip you can
dine inside at the Wieża Ciśnień bistro and restaurant. To
get there hop on tram numbers 2, 6 or 7, getting off at the
‘Pl. Powstańców Śląskich’ stop.QE‑7, ul. Sudecka 125a.

Wrocław’s Gnomes
After the eventual fall of communism in Poland, gnomes
remained a symbol of Wrocław, repurposed by the new
government to be a tribute to the Orange Movement, as
well as playful, family-friendly ambassadors of the city.

Photo by Marcin Wiktorski, courtesy of City Promotion Office,
Muncipality of Wrocław

One of Wrocław’s most popular, memorable and iconic
attractions is not a cathedral, castle or monument, but
a legion of little people: gnomes, or ‘krasnale’ (in local
parlance), to be precise. In Wrocław’s city centre these
merry munchkins are simply ubiquitous - dotting doorways,
alleyways and street corners; constantly underfoot but
only seen by the observant. You may well overlook the
first dozen or so that cross your path, but inevitably and often literally - you will stumble upon these popular
local residents. Keep your eyes peeled and you’re bound
to notice the little fellas engaged in a variety of activities
about town - from guarding public space to passed-out
drunk. Beloved by locals and tourists alike, and the object
of more photos than the towering Cathedral, these prolific
pranksters have become the unlikely symbol of one of PL’s
most picturesque cities.
Although it sounds like little more than a twee tourist
gimmick, Wrocław’s gnomes actually have a direct
correlation to the political climate of the 1980s. Under
communism gnomes became the absurdist calling card
of the ‘Orange Alternative’ - an underground protest
movement that used absurdity and nonsense to stage
peaceful, yet subversive protests. Armed with paint cans
and led by Waldemar ‘Major’ Fydrych, an artist and
student at Wrocław University, the group started out by
ridiculing the establishment’s attempts to censor public
space. During communism, any anti-establishment graffiti
or public art was quickly painted over by the militia; upon
seeing fresh daubs of paint, the pranksters of the Orange
Alternative quickly painted over them yet again...with
gnomes. As the cheeky movement gained popularity,
gnomes began to appear in demonstrations as well, with
Major Fydrych handing out iconic peaked orange gnome
hats to passing pedestrians and leading nonsensical
marches for gnomes’ rights. The resulting arrests of orangeclad and ridiculous-looking gnomes, plus dozens of
bystanders detained for also wearing red, often made the
nightly news and succeeded in making the authorities look
idiotic. The movement caught on across the country, and
soon gnomes were appearing in other major cities as well.

The first gnome statuette was Papa Krasnal (the largest
of his progeny), who was placed on the corner of ul.
Świdnicka and ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego (A-4), where Orange
Alternative demonstrations often took place, to celebrate
the history of the Orange Alternative in 2001. Things really
took off in 2005, however, when local artist Tomasz Moczek
- a graduate of the Wrocław Academy of Fine Arts - was
commissioned by Wrocław City Council to create five more
gnomes. The little devils proved so popular that envious
local businesses quickly got in on the game by contracting
other local artists to produce more, and in almost no time
at all gnomes had proliferated around Wrocław to the point
that they now constitute a veritable ‘sub-population’ of the
city. The little buggers are currently rumoured to be running
rampant to the score of over 300(!), making it literally
impossible for us to try and keep track of them, or for visitors
to try to find all of them on their own. Seeing how many
gnomes you can spot while you’re in Wrocław, however, is
an incredibly fun alternative to traditional sightseeing, and a
great way to keep the kids involved while tramping around
town. To help you out we’ve included 25 of our favourite
gnomes on our website, with the exact address and GPS
coordinates of their location; head to to
easily find some of the city’s most popular gnomes on your
If that’s not enough, you can also pick up a special map
from tourist information (Rynek 14, A-3) showing where to
find 30 of the most centrally located gnomes, and there is
even a special, dual-language (Polish and English) website
dedicated to Wrocław’s gnomes -
- where you can find their history, photos and other
information, including downloadable maps of their various
locations. Spend an afternoon as a gnome-watcher and see
how many of these mischievous miscreants you can spot as
you stroll around town. Happy hunting!

Marcin Wiktorski, courtesy of City Promotion Office,
Muncipality of Wrocław

January - April 2016


Ostrów Tumski

The less celebrated back view of Wrocław Cathedral | © Patryk Michalski, Dollar Photo Club

Playing soul to the Rynek’s heart, Ostrów Tumski is the gem
at the centre of Wrocław’s crown. This, after all, is where
the city began, making it one of the most historically
significant parts of town, in addition to its most archaically
picturesque. The district’s history has always been closely
tied to Catholicism and today you’ll find an incredible
concentration of religious buildings across the river, making
it an incredibly peaceful place to explore and relax.
During the latter part of the 9th century what is now known
as Ostrów Tumski (the name means ‘Cathedral Island’ in
Polish) was settled by a Slavic tribe, the Ślężanie, who
considered the island impregnable. The first bishopric in
Lower Silesia soon followed in 1000, and for the next two and
a half centuries Ostrów Tumski was the centre of Wrocław
before the marauding Tartars proved they could indeed
make it pregnant (so to speak); pregnant with fire and ruin,
that is. After its destruction, the city’s nucleus shifted across
the river where its development would be less restricted by
rivers. Ostrów Tumski, meanwhile, became a place of almost
exclusively religious and royal (the Piast Dynasty built a
castle here in the 1260s) significance. With a few exceptions
it remains primarily a place of worship and reflection to this
day; as such, there are few shops, dwellings, cafes, bars and
restaurants, and the Wrocław Archdiocese occupies almost all
of the beautifully maintained classical buildings you will see.
One of the first things observant visitors may notice is that
though Ostrów Tumski is indeed accessed from central
Wrocław by bridge, it is not actually an island. It was until
the 19th century, but persistent flooding led town planners
to fill in one of the Odra’s tributaries in 1810 (though the
64 Wrocław In Your Pocket

city has sadly seen its share of floods since then as well).
Seemingly miles from the bustle of Rynek, perhaps the real
joy of Ostrów Tumski is its other-worldly feel. Katedralna
and Idziego Streets both provide cobbled reminders of
the past - Idziego especially, though it lacks the postcard
worthy sights of Katedralna, is a particularly gorgeous
street, still lit today by original gas lamps and providing the
perfect frame for a picturesque, romantic evening stroll.
Keep your eyes peeled at dusk for the district’s famous
lamplighter as he goes about his daily duty of lighting
Ostów Tumski’s gas lamps by hand.

A visit to this lovely, peaceful part of Wrocław rightly begins
at Most Piaskowy (Sand Bridge, C-2). This is the oldest
bridge in Wrocław, built in 1861 and an engineering marvel,
if no great shakes on the design front. The original bridge,
built back in the 11th century, was part of the ancient trade
route - the Amber Road, which led from the Baltic Sea to
Vienna, and thence to Venice. As you walk along ul. Jadwigi
you will pass the Russian Orthodox Church of Sts. Cyril and
Methodius, the Baroque-era University Library, and the
Gothic Church of the Blessed Virgin on the Sand, famous
for its 16th century icon of the Virgin Mary in the northern
nave. From here the beloved, iron, 1890-built Most Tumski
(Tumski Bridge, C-2) leads you across to the oldest part of
the city; look out for the statues of St. Jadwiga (Hedwig),
Silesia’s patron saint, and John the Baptist, Wrocław’s patron,
at the head of the bridge. Also of note are the padlocks
placed on the bridge by newlyweds to symbolise the
unbreakable bond they share going forward in life together.

Ostrów Tumski
Following ul. Katedralna from there you’ll first come across the
Church of Saints Peter & Paul before reaching the impressive
monument of John of Nepomuk standing beneath the
Church of the Holy Cross, a rare two-level church with
two separate parishes. Continuing down picturesque ul.
Katedralna you’ll pass two of the neighbourhood’s only
places to rest and refuel - Cafeterie Chic at Katedralna 6 and
Lwia Brama at Katedralna 9 - before standing beneath the
beautiful Cathedral of St. John the Baptist (D-2), famous
for its stunning stained glass windows and 16th century
altarpiece. To the right of the Cathedral’s main portal is the
Archbishop’s Palace, now the Archdiocese Museum (the
Archbishop lives elsewhere these days).


Crossing Tumski Bridge from Wyspa Piasek (Sand Island),
this is the first church you’ll encounter on Ostrów Tumski.
Original construction of this Gothic brick church took nearly
50 years between 1404 and 1452, only to see it destroyed by
two fires, rebuilt, and then 40% obliterated during Festung
Breslau. Reconstructed in the 1950s, the accuracy of the
interior has since been disputed. Though you’ll find the front
doors open in the summer, you won’t get past the inner
gates to see the church in detail, and generally it is closed
to the public.QC‑2, ul. Katedralna, tel. (+48) 71 327 13 33.
This tiny and somewhat irregularly shaped brick church is
all that remains of the Piast dynasty’s 13th-century Royal
Castle, which once stood on the island. St. Martin’s too,
however, was largely rebuilt in the 15th and 20th centuries.
Before WWII the church was a centre of Polish culture in a
primarily German city. Poles gathered here to hear sermons
and sing hymns in their own language. The last Polish mass
under Nazi oppression was held here in 1939. A plaque
outside reads in part, “We are Poles... A Pole is a brother to a
Pole... Poland is our mother, we cannot speak badly of our
mother.” Outside St. Martin’s stands a massive monument
to Pope John XXIII, placed here in 1986.QC‑2, ul. Św.
Marcina. Open only during mass (Sundays at 10:00).
One of Ostrów Tumski’s most beautiful and iconic structures,
thanks to a 70m steeple and impressive entry staircase, this
curious sanctuary is actually two churches in one. Split over
two levels, the building comprises the shorter windows
of the Church of St. Bartholomew beneath the soaring
windows of the upper level Church of the Holy Cross. The
first two-storey church in Silesia, and one of only a few in all
of Europe, the church was completed in 1295 as an act of
reconciliation ending a long dispute between Duke Henry
IV and Bishop Thomas II. For centuries the sarcophagus of
Henry IV was housed in the upper Church of the Holy Cross,
however today it can be seen on display in the National
Museum. Standing outside the church is a large sculpture of
John of Nepomuk dating from 1732.QC‑2, Plac Kościelny,
tel. (+48) 71 322 25 74. Upper level closed; lower level
open during mass only.

Lamplighter has to be one of the world’s most
charmingly antiquated, unique and romantic
occupations, right up there with town crier, court jester,
lighthouse keeper, castle drawbridge operator and…
well, IYP editor, of course. Up until and even throughout
the 19th century, when candle or gas streetlamps were
still the norm, lamplighter was a prolific and wellrespected job. In those pre-Edison days it was the
lamplighter’s job to go around town at dusk igniting a
city’s streetlamps, and then extinguishing them again
at dawn; while on patrol, the lamplighter often served a
dual role as town watchman. Today having a degree in
lamplighting won’t do much for your CV; in fact, to our
knowledge, Wrocław is one of only two cities in Europe
that still employs a lamplighter (the other being Brest,
Belarus). The first gas lantern was lit in Wrocław in 1846
and gas streetlamps were common throughout the city
even after the war and up until the 1960s when they
were replaced in the Old Town. Fortunately those on
Ostrów Tumski – Wrocław’s Cathedral Island – survived
modernisation and the tradition of the Wrocław
lamplighter is carried on to this day. 365 days a year this
gentleman can be seen at dusk in his unique cape and
top hat lighting the 103 gas lamps in the district. With
a butane cartridge discreetly hidden under his cloak,
the lamplighter uses a pole to ignite the lamps and a
hook attachment to extinguish them each morning.
Catching him in the jolly act is not only easy to do if
you’re exploring the area in the evening, but also a
prerequisite for camera-wielding tourists.
January - April 2016


Ostrów Tumski
One of Wrocław’s most enduring icons, the elegant
double-spires of this Gothic building stands like a
sentinels at the end of ul. Katedralna, and its elaborate
portal one of the most valuable medieval artefacts
in Wrocław. What we see today is in fact the fourth
church to be built on this site. When construction
began in 1244, this was the first brick building in Poland.
Cathedral-building being what it is, work continued for
five more centuries. The centrepiece of the rich, Gothic
interior is the altarpiece, painted in Lublin in 1522,
showing the Virgin Mary having a nap. You’ll also see
the largest organ in Poland, which prior to the war was
also the largest in the world. The real highlight of the
Cathedral, however, is the panoramic view from one of
its towers, which can be yours for 5zł during the warm
months (weather dependent); unlike the arduous climbs
required for Wrocław’s other church towers, here an
elevator takes you to the top where you’ll find a small
exhibition in addition to the wonderful views.QD‑2, Pl.
Katedralny 18, tel. (+48) 71 322 25 74, www.katedra. Open 09:45 - 17:30, Sun 14:00 16:00. No visiting during mass please.

Cathedral of St. John the Baptist

© efektstudio80, Dollar Photo Club

This might just be the quintessential Wrocław café.
Search for it (which you must, it is well-disguised) near
the Church of the Holy Cross on Ostrów Tumski, and
enter a world of marbled floors, tiny little tables, period
lamps and the dreamiest apple pie with raspberry sauce
in Poland. Popular with ladies of a certain age who have
little to do except visit cafes and eat what they would
call ‘naughty’ cakes, it’s nonetheless one of our favourite
places in Wrocław.QC‑2, ul. Katedralna 6, tel. (+48) 71
327 13 55, Open 09:00 - 21:00. G
One of the few places you’ll actually find anything to eat
if you’re strolling Ostrów Tumski, Lwia Brama offers some
great sidewalk seating in the warmer months from
which you can enjoy a drink or a meal while waiting for
the lamplighter to come round and perform that most
romantic of Wrocław rituals - the daily lighting of the
district’s gaslamps. In winter the historic underground
cellars aren’t as cold and sprawling as you might expect,
and they also serve as a gallery for local artists (all
paintings are for sale). The menu here sticks to Polish
and European standards, with some dishes prepared
in the sous-vide method.QC‑2, ul. Katedralna 9, tel.
(+48) 880 00 27 42, Open 12:00
- 20:00. Closed Mon. (26-69zł). G­S­W
66 Wrocław In Your Pocket

Built in the 13th century, this is the only church in Wrocław
to have survived the Tatar invasions and is today the oldest
active church in the city.QC‑2, ul. Św. Idziego. Open
during mass only.
To the right of the Cathedral is the stunning Archdiocese
Museum, a do-it-yourself museum that throws rooms full
of religious art at you and you’re left to decide for yourself
what to make of it. Much of the art is recent - the work
of local religious orders, but the largest room is filled
with invaluable medieval works from around Poland. Art
historians will no doubt find plenty of interest.QD‑2, Pl.
Katedralny 16, tel. (+48) 71 327 11 78, www.muzeum. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 10zł. N
Halls full of massive skeletons, stuffed animal corpses
posed on fake landscapes, butterflies pinned to boards all natural history museums are gloomy places and this
is no exception. The collection was founded as part of
the University of Wrocław in 1811 and moved to its own
building in 1906. The entire collection was destroyed in
World War II, but has been replaced since and now numbers
about three million animals and half a million plants. You
won’t find much info in English, but for bio-buffs it’s the
Latin that matters, right? Four permanent exhibits in total
- World of Plants, World of Animals, Insects & Humans,
and lastly, the recently renovated Skeletal System exhibit.
QD‑1, ul. Sienkiewicza 21, tel. (+48) 71 375 41 45, www. Open 09:00 - 15:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/7zł.

Centennial Hall & Parks

Centennial Hall

Once you’ve finished ogling the Old Town and Ostrów
Tumski, there’s one more district of this fine city that
visitors will be poorer heading home without having
seen. Just east of the city centre lie a clutch of outdoor
attractions surrounding Szczynicki Park and the
Centennial Exhibition Complex, including Wrocław’s
only UNESCO site, the country’s oldest zoo, the Japanese
Garden and the city’s latest ‘tell-me-that-you-loveme’ tourist lure, the Pergola Fountain. Intended as a
city showpiece since its creation, the area east of the
Odra long held a somewhat lukewarm public standing
thanks to dubious historical connotations and debatable
aesthetic appeal; however recent renovations, the
UNESCO nod and the addition of the magnificent
multimedia fountain (operating May-October) have
made it a favourite place of locals and cemented its place
as a Wrocław must-see.
Cross the picturesque Zwierzyniecki Bridge and you find
yourself immediately alongside the cagey enclosure
of the Wrocław Zoological Gardens. A product of the
city’s dynamic development in the late 19th century,
Wrocław’s zoo dates back to 1865 (celebrating 150 years
in 2015!) and became the oldest in the country when
Poland inherited it after World War II. Suffering severe
wartime damage, many of the zoo’s elegant historic
buildings were reconstructed and can be found in the
southern part of the park; also don’t miss the splendid
Soviet-era neon sign at the entrance. Brand-new to the
zoo is the impressive African aquarium complex - or
‘Afrykarium’ - three levels of exhibits focussed on the

diverse water environments of Africa, including hippos,
sharks, manatees, crocodiles, penguins (in Africa? Who
knew?) and more. With over 12,000 critters of some 1,100
different species, the zoo is one of Wrocław’s most visited
attractions (don’t be surprised by long entry queues on
sunny weekends) and also provides foreigners with an
opportunity to pick up a few phrases from one of the
only Polish-speaking macaws in the world.QI‑4, ul.
Wróblewskiego 1-5, tel. (+48) 71 348 30 24, www.zoo. Open 09:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.
From April 09:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Last
entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 40/30zł. A
family ticket (valid for up to 2 adults, 3 kids) is also
available for 120zł (Mon 80zł).

Photo by Janusz Krzeszkowski

January - April 2016


Centennial Hall & Parks
With Wrocław developing rapidly in the late 19th century
it was determined that the city required an exhibition hall
and the hundred year anniversary of Napoleon’s defeat at
the Battle of Leipzig (1813) was deemed a timely occasion
for an expensive, over-the-top exhibition hall that would
figuratively flex the architectural muscle of the German
Nation. Max Berg, who had been appointed as official city
architect in 1909, quickly set about designing his career-piece,
and (what-do-ya-know?) his proposal was chosen over 42
others by city council despite abject objection from almost
everyone who laid eyes on the design, which resembled a
colossal concrete hatbox and would cost an enormous 1.9
million Reichmarks. Teaming with eminent architect Hans
Poelzig, the two personally oversaw the project which was
completed in 1913 and has endured to become hailed as
one of the most important architectural monuments of the
early 20th century. With an inner diameter of 69 metres,
a height of 42 metres and a 10,000 person capacity, the
Jahrhunderthalle (as it was then called) became the highest
structure of its type in the world; that type being a gigantic
multi-purpose structure of radial reinforced concrete ribs
unlike anything the world had ever seen. Though routinely
left off lists of the world’s most attractive buildings, one thing
is undeniable: the Centennial Hall is an engineering marvel.
Leaving the animal house antics of the zoo, turn onto ulica
Wystawowa (Exhibition Street) and you’ll soon find yourself
staring down the Centennial Hall promenade, including
the ivy-covered columns leading to the towering ‘Iglica’
monument and with monolithic Centennial Hall behind it.
The iconic 96 metre tall steel spire was erected on the
Centennial Hall exhibition grounds in 1948 as part of the
propagandic ‘Recovered Territories Exhibition.’ Meant to
symbolise the soaring achievements of the country’s newly
acquired western territories since they were ‘returned’ to
Communist Poland, like many of the Party’s ideas, this one
quickly went wrong. Originally 106 metres, Iglica’s peak
was adorned with a spinning contraption of mirrors which
would create a dazzling ‘umbrella of light’ at night. The
apparatus was ominously struck by lightning only hours
after completion with much of it crashing to the ground
in dazzling catastrophe; the remaining dangling bits posed
quite a hazard to the expected thousands who would
attend the exhibition. To the rescue came two college
students who were part of a climbing club and volunteered
to dismantle the top of the structure for free after the
military proved unable to sort the situation due to the
inclement weather. Scaling the Iglica took 24 hours and 15
minutes, dismantling it another six, but the boys succeeded
in becoming heroes of the enormous media spectacle. In
1964, the spire was reduced by 10 metres for safety reasons.
During Martial Law, another daredevil climbed the tower
and attached a Solidarity flag to its zenith. Today the ugly
ribbed structure continues to stand outside Centennial Hall
and is probably one of the tallest pieces of useless bolted
metal in the world.QI‑4, Hala Stulecia, ul. Wystawowa 1.
68 Wrocław In Your Pocket

Building a structure of such size out of steel and concrete
was both revolutionary and extremely daring; in fact the
workers that helped build the behemoth were afraid to
go inside, so certain were they of its eventual collapse. On
the contrary, the Centennial Hall has inexplicably survived
two world wars and hosted countless large scale events
including monumental operas, concerts and sporting
events. It was here that Adolf Hitler held rallies and Pope
John Paul II held services during his famous visit in 1997.
Renamed ‘Hala Ludowa’ (the People’s Hall) following World
War II, the structure and surrounding grounds were the site
of the People’s Republic of Poland’s ‘Recovered Territories
Exhibition’ - the most expensive and publicised propaganda
event in the history of Poland. Added to the UNESCO World
Heritage List in 2006, until its total renovation in 2010,
the Centennial Hall complex hadn’t really lived up to its
reputation for locals and tourists alike, with busloads of the
latter often standing in front of the concrete monstrosity
wondering how difficult it would be to get the pants
they’re wearing to qualification for the once exclusive list.

Centennial Hall & Parks
However, that’s no longer the case; Centennial Hall has
been scrubbed clean and features an interior exhibit that
not only transforms the structure from a dubious photoop to a bona fide tourist attraction, but also does much to
explain and justify its reputation as a modern architectural
masterpiece. Known as the Discovery Centre (Centrum
Poznawcze), this exhibition gives visitors an overview of
Centennial Hall’s construction, its history and its place in the
pantheon of modern architecture. Most of the information
is conveyed via nifty touch-screen displays covering topics
as varied as Breslau architects, skyscrapers, various world
exhibitions, Polish UNESCO sites, and a lot more related to
architecture and Wrocław specifically. In addition to the
permanent exhibit, Discovery Centre includes a gallery for
temporary exhibitions and the option of a light and sound
show under the dome. Using video-mapping technology,
the dome of the Hall comes to life with a stunningly complex
light show that emphasises the uniqueness of the structure
and is creatively choreographed to original music. Between
the light show, the computerised displays of the permanent
exhibit and the adjacent Wrocław Fountain - there is some
serious multimedia wizardry in this corner of town that
is sure to delight architect buffs and technophiles alike.
Despite its size (the permanent exhibition only covers two
small rooms), there is much to learn and discover, so allot
almost two hours for your visit.QI‑4, ul. Wystawowa 1,
tel. (+48) 71 347 51 50, Open
09:00 - 17:00. Closed the first Monday of every month.
Admission 12/9zł, permanent exhibit plus gallery 14/11zł,
permanent exhibit plus gallery and light show 19/15zł.
Just left of Centennial Hall’s main entrance you’ll find the
‘Pergola’ - a colossal, semi-circular colonnade winding around
one of the city’s most popular attractions - the multimedia
fountain. Though the fountain is shut down for the season, in
winter part of the space is transformed into a 900m2 outdoor
ice rink. Pay once and you get unlimited ice time, but note that


The easiest way to reach the Centennial Exhibition
Complex is via public transport. Tram 10 can be caught
from the ‘Rynek’ (A-3), ‘Świdnicka’ (A-4) and ‘Galeria
Dominikańska’ (C-4) stops, or take buses 145 or 146 east
from the train station (B-5), getting off at ‘Hala Stulecia.’
The area is also easily accessible by car, with parking
available right in front of Centennial Hall.
Above- and underground ground guarded parking for
nearly 800 passenger cars and 20 buses, right in front
of Centennial Hall, within easy walking distance of the
Zoo, Wrocław Fountain and Japanese Gardens.QI‑4,
ul. Wystawowa 1 (entrance from ul. Kopernika), tel.
(+48) 71 346 14 22,
once you leave you have to pay all over again if you want to
return. Oh, and if you didn’t pack skates on your holiday, you’ll
need an outrageous 200zł cash deposit to rent them (plus
6zł for the actual use of the skates).QI‑4, ul. Wystawowa 1,
tel. (+48) 71 347 50 56, Open 09:00
- 22:00 with 1hr maintenance breaks at 15:00 and 19:00.
Closed from mid-March. Admission 8/5zł.

The renovation of Centennial Hall included the opening of
Pergola: a modern restaurant and cafe with two separate
dining areas, entrances, kitchens and menus. Though
in winter the cafe side closes down, you can still watch
the local ice queens taking their twirls on the seasonal
ice rink just beyond the floor-to-ceiling windows of
the restaurant proper. Pergola features swanky booths,
a propane fireplace and the type of table settings that
include starched white napkin origami and wine glasses.
The extensive menu ranges from plebian pizza and pierogi
to pricey steaks, and since it’s one of the only places to eat
within a very tourist-trodden area of one-kilometre or so,
you can expect it to be plenty busy.QI‑4, ul. Wystawowa
1, tel. (+48) 71 347 50 22,
Open 10:00 - 16:00. (15-69zł). T­U­G­S­W

Inside the Church of St. John of Nepomuk

Photo: B. Maliszewska

A stroll beyond the Pergola colonnades put you in
Szczytnicki Park, the oldest and largest recreation space in
the city. Covering 115 hectares and laid out in 1785, the
once well-groomed former estate park suffered devastation
during the Napoleonic Wars and WWII and today largely
resembles a natural landscape within the city borders. While
there, keep your eyes peeled for the small Church of St.
John of Nepomuk - a marvellous 14th century wooden
church moved to the park from the Opole region and
miraculously undamaged during the war.QI‑3/4.
January - April 2016


Jewish Wrocław

Monument of Wrocław’s former main synagogue, ul. Łąkowa 6.

Wrocław’s Jewish community is one of the oldest in today’s
Poland, dating back to the 12th century when the city was
an important trade centre along the Amber Road. Though
consistently confronted with persecution, Jews have
steadily played a role in the development of the city. By
the end of the 19th century, in fact, the Jewish community
was so well integrated into Breslau society that many Jews
had achieved leading positions in academic and scientific
circles; at the time, these men were not considered any
less German than they were Jewish. Breslau (as it was
then known) possessed the second largest synagogue in
Germany and its Jewish community was the third largest in
the country with numbers that had risen to 30,000 by the
time Hitler came to power.
It doesn’t require much detail from us to know what
befell Breslau’s wartime Jewish population. The city’s
once magnificent main synagogue - torched on
Kristallnacht (November 9, 1938) - says enough, with
only a small memorial remembering where it once
stood at ul. Łąkowa 6 (A-4). What less people are aware
of is that after the war when German Breslau became
Polish Wrocław, the city’s Jewish population actually
increased dramatically beyond its pre-war levels as the
city accepted some 70,000 Jews displaced by the war many from the Soviet Union. Ironically, Wrocław’s Jewish
population reached its peak immediately after WWII;
however, the anti-minority politics of the Soviet Union
slowly shrank their numbers until they had been forced
out of Poland completely by 1968. Since the fall of the
Soviet Union that number has been resurgent again and
today there are some 1,000 Jews living in Wrocław, part of
70 Wrocław In Your Pocket

a gradual transition from tracing the past to plotting the
future which culminated in May 2010 with the symbolic
reopening of the White Stork Synagogue.
Located northwest of the centre, the New Jewish Cemetery
was founded in 1902 when the Ślężna Street cemetery
became too small, and is still in use by Wrocław’s Jewish
community today. That hasn’t saved it from the ravages of
time however, and like the cemetery it succeeded, it stands
in sharp contrast to the well-kept Catholic cemeteries
across Poland. Comprising 11 hectares and approximately
8,000 graves, this is the fifth largest Jewish cemetery
in Poland, and as such carries an even more powerful
aura of secret beauty among its maze of ivy-coved
headstones and crumbling vaults. Likewise registered as
an historical monument for its rich diversity of aesthetic
and architectural styles, the most noteworthy tomb here
is dedicated to the Jewish soldiers of the German Army
who fought and died in WWI; their 432 names are etched
into the top of the monument. The cemetery is currently
the subject of slow renovation work and is only open
to the public from mid-April to mid-November, on
Wednesdays (14:00 - 17:00) and Sundays (09:00 - 13:00),
with parts of the cemetery cordoned off altogether. Still,
about 80% (this place is huge, remember) is accessible,
with about 50% having already undergone restoration. We
advise that you contact the Jewish Information Centre / CIŻ
Cafe for updated information. To get there catch trams 10,
33, 20 or 3 from Pl.Jana Pawła II and get off at ‘DH Astra;’ it’s
about a 12min ride.Qul. Lotnicza 51 (Fabryczna), www. Admission 8zł.

Jewish Wrocław
Established in 1856, this 4.6 hectare cemetery is perhaps
the most well-preserved testament to the former strength
of Breslau’s pre-war Jewish community, with over 1200
gravestones. Closed in 1942, the cemetery quickly fell into
deep neglect: in 1945 it was turned into a fortress by the
Nazis and saw fierce fighting as evidenced by the eerie
bullet holes in many of the gravestones. Preservation began
in the 1970s and in 1991 it was opened as the Museum of
Jewish Cemetery Art in tribute to the craftsmanship of its
sepulchral art. Indeed the beauty and diversity of styles
and symbols on display is perhaps unmatched anywhere.
Many noteworthy figures are buried here, including the
renowned biologist Ferdinand Cohn, the historian Heinrich
Graetz (author of the first complete history of the Jews),
Clara Immerwahl (first female PhD student at the University
of Breslau, and wife of Fritz Haber, who committed suicide
in objection to her husband’s work developing chemical
warfare), Ferdinand Lassalle (founder and leader of the
first labour party in Germany, killed in a duel), and the
parents of Edith Stein; using old records some of their
tombstones are slowly being restored. However, despite
these modest efforts the Ślężna Street Cemetery remains
a completely mysterious and evocative sanctuary of
decaying vine-covered monuments, the broken pieces of
which are stacked against each other, giving shelter to stray
cats and shade to wildflowers. Well worth a visit, a highly
informative accompanying booklet (in Polish, English or
German) makes it even more so, despite being overpriced
at 15zł.QE/F‑7, ul. Ślężna 37/39, tel. (+48) 71 791 59 04, Open 09:00 till dusk. Admission 15/10zł,
Thu free.

that members of the Jewish community were rounded up
for deployment to the death camps during WWII. Badly
damaged, but not set ablaze (thanks only to its proximity
to residential buildings), the synagogue was literally left
to rot after the war, before the Jewish community was
finally able to recover it from the Polish government in
1996 and initiate restoration. Re-opened in May 2010,
the synagogue now serves as a worship space, cultural
centre and branch of the Jewish Information Centre, with
a new multi-functional hall in the synagogue’s basement
and two exhibition spaces on the balconies. One houses
a permanent exhibition about the History of Jews in
Wrocław and Lower Silesia, while the second balcony is
for temporary exhibitions. Guided tours takes place every
Sunday at 11:00 in Polish (10/5zł) and at 13:00 in English
(20/10zł).QE‑4, ul. Włodkowica 7, tel. (+48) 504 90 53
58, Open 10:00 - 16:00,
Fri 10:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 -16:00. Closed Sat. Last
entrance 1 hour before closing.


The only synagogue in Wrocław to escape the torches of
Kristallnacht, the White Stork was built in 1829, taking its
name from the inn that once stood in its place. Following
the design of prominent German architect Karl Ferdinand
Langhans, it is ironically considered a sterling example
of 18th century Protestant sacral art. Discreetly hidden
from view in a courtyard between ul. Antoniego and ul.
Włodkowica, today the surrounding grounds are full of
beer gardens, bohemians and tourists; however it was here

After renovations, the Jewish Information Centre
has reopened as CIŻ Cafe - a kosher coffeehouse,
bookshop and tourist info centre. In addition to
being a new venue for Jewish-related lectures,
workshops and other events, this outfit also
arranges Jewish walking tours of Wrocław. While
you’re there enjoy coffee, tea, cakes and muffins.
QE‑4, ul. Włodkowica 9, tel. (+48) 71 787 39 02, Open 09:00 - 21:00,
Fri 09:00 until dusk, Sat 17:00 - 22:00. G­W
Founded in 2006 to accomplish the renovation of the
Synagogue, this outfit organises the monthly events that
take place there, including exhibitions, film screenings,
workshops, lectures, language courses, concerts, theatre
performances and more. For info about Jewish events in
Wrocław, start here.QE‑4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48)
71 782 81 23,
January - April 2016



Here there be hippos! The Zoo has been more popular than ever since the opening of the new ‘Africarium;’ more on page 67.

Though skirt-watching and spirit-sipping in the city’s cafés
and bars is perhaps the most popular local leisure activity, our
Leisure section is more designed to help you get out and make
the most of a sunny day, or stay active during a dreary one.
Known as one of Poland’s greenest cities, Wrocław offers plenty
of recreation opportunities on top of its great architecture,
nightlife and culture. With a scenic location on the Odra River
and its many tributaries, the city boasts copious kilometres
of river boulevards and bike lanes, as well as centrally located
parks. Whatever your interest, the area has something to offer
you, so use the listings below to stay active in every season.

Just off the main square, this billiards bar covers 600m2
with 17 professional pool tables, one professional snooker
table and plenty of beer and spirits.QB‑3, ul. Kuźnicza
10, tel. (+48) 71 344 85 46, Open
10:00 - 24:00. 10-26zł/h.
Full of shiny surfaces, planetary paintings and a unique
colour changing ceiling, this enormous, new state-of-theart bowling alley on the 2nd floor of Sky Tower features 24
lanes, plus a restaurant/bar and VIP room. Pricing is quite
complex and depends on the time of day and day of the
week, ranging from 20zł Monday mornings to 90zł Friday
nights per lane for an hour of play (shoe rental included).
QE‑6, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 73-95 (Sky Tower), tel.
(+48) 71 712 83 33, Open 08:00 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.
72 Wrocław In Your Pocket

Wrocław’s best outdoor ice rink, this year the Wrocław
Fountain has once again been converted into a 900 square
metre(!) ice patch, and shall remain so until mid-March. Note
that there is a one-off entrance fee which gives you unlimited
time as long as you remain on the ice; if you leave you have
to pay all over again.QI‑4, ul. Wystawowa 1, tel. (+48) 71
347 50 56, Open 09:00 - 22:00, with
1hr maintanance breaks at 15:00 and 19:00. Admission
8/5zł. Skate hire 6zł/hr (plus a crazy 200zł deposit!).
Located just north-west of the city centre, Wrocław’s
impressive stadium was raised in the build-up to the
Euro 2012 football championships. In the deep winter
(December until end of February) the grass gives way to
the city’s largest ice floe. Public ice time is weekdays 15:00 22:00, weekends 09:00 - 22:00 (note that the ice is cleaned
from 13:00 - 14:00). Admission is 9/8zł/hr and skate rental is
an additional 6zł. Get there easily via trams 10 and 20.QAl.
Śląska 1, tel. (+48) 71 776 80 00.

Located just north of the city centre, Bobolandia is the
largest family amusement centre in Poland, offering 3000
square metres of fun and attractions. Pretty much every
kid’s dream, this family funhouse includes all kinds of plush
and inflatable play areas and jungle gyms, trampolines,
ball pits, slides, sandboxes and more, plus pool tables, air

hockey and arcade games. There’s also a restaurant. As you
could probably spend all day here (and your child will no
doubt want to), tickets are sold at a flat day rate of 29zł per
kid on weekdays (19zł if you arrive after 17:00), 32zł per
kid on weekends (21zł after 17:00). The nice part is adults
only pay 5zł and are likely to have a great time also.Qul.
Jana Długosza 59-75 (Psie Pole), tel. (+48) 71 793 77 44, Open 10:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Think you can escape from a locked, puzzle-filled room in 60
minutes using only your wits? Escape games have gotten
rather popular of late as a more intellectual alternative to say - bowling or billiards, so grab a few friends, take a deep
breath, and put your collective problem-solving skills to the
test as the timer ticks down to your demise. You can choose
from one of four themed rooms: Saw, Cube, Sexmission
(named after the Polish cult film), and Paranormal.QA‑3,
Rynek 2/4, tel. (+48) 790 36 97 96,
Open 13:15 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:15 - 21:00.
Organised laser tag in a specially designed maze arena for
2-10 person groups. Reservations recommended.QC‑1,
ul. Sienkiewicza 8a, tel. (+48) 531 63 80 00, www. Open 12:00 - 22:00. 40zł per person
per hour.

Completed in 2008,
Wrocław’s water park
is easily one of the
finest in the country
and makes for a nice
respite from the city’s
confoundingly complex history and highminded cultural attractions. And it’s probably the only
place your kids will tell their friends about from their trip
to Wrocław. While the main attractions are surely the indoor and outdoor recreational swimming pools with their
water slides (including the most recent addition - a multimedia slide involving lights and music to distract you as
you plummet), wave machines, ‘lazy river’ and other wonders, a fitness centre, restaurant, cafe, bar and shop are
also on hand, making a trip to the Aqua Park a full day’s
outing, just south of the train station. From the city centre
you can take trams 8, 9, 15, 31 or 32, and bus numbers
113, 145, 146 or 612.QF‑6, ul. Borowska 99, tel. (+48)
71 771 15 11, Open 09:00 23:00. Fitness Centre, saunas and sport pool all have
independent hours. Check the website for exact times.
Admission 19/17zł per hour, 49/39zł for a day pass on
weekdays; 22/18zł per hour, 55/45zł for a day pass on

Improve blood and limphatic circulation, release physical
and mental tension, strengthen the immune system,
improve joint flexibility and remove toxins from your body
with an authentic Thai massage, performed solely by
highly qualified Thai masseuses trained at Wat Pho Temple
in Bangkok. The offer includes classical Thai massage,
herbal compresses, oil massages, feet and legs reflexology,
back, shoulder and head massages, and more. Note that
reception is only open until 20:00.QA‑3, ul. Ruska 35, tel.
(+48) 667 75 53 87, Open 12:00 22:00. Massages 120-300zł.

Guest Rooms, ApARtment, Hostel
The Dairy, Die Molkerei, La Latteria, Le Lecheria, La Laitearie.
Descend beneath the grandeur of the Monopol hotel to
find one of the city’s premier spa and wellness centres
including a gym, counter-current swimming pool, fountain
and jacuzzi, dry sauna, aromatherapy steam bath and salt
and iodine cave. Massages, face and body treatments are
also available.QA‑4, ul. Modrzejewskiej 2 (Monopol
Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37 50, www.monopolwroclaw. Spa open 09:00 - 21:00; Wellness Centre
06:00 - 22:00.

ul. P. Włodkowica 5, 50 – 072 Wrocław
tel./fax +48 71 787 75 70,

January - April 2016



Right on the Rynek, head to Wrocław Souvenirs (p.78) for souvenirs that say you were in Wrocław.

Retail opportunities have come a long way since the
days of queuing around the corner for the off-chance
of buying a crust of bread. Today Wrocław’s shopfronts are stocked with everything you’d expect to
find in a cosmopolitan metropolis, with bountiful
pedestrian shopping opportunities around the
market square, ulica Świdnicka and ulica Oławska.
Odrzańska, Kiełbaśnicza and Mikołaja streets are home
to upmarket boutiques and galleries, while the popular
Jatki (A-2) is known for its row of artisan galleries and
souvenir stalls. For familiar international labels and
big brands, look no further than one of Wrocław’s
glistening new shopping malls - there are no less than
five comfortably within the city centre. Lastly, don’t
miss visiting Hala Targowa (C-2) for a truly Polish
cultural experience while catching a bargain. As this is
PL, remember most shops close early on Saturday and
take Sunday off altogether.

This small shop offers hundreds of cigars from Cuba and
elsewhere, cutters, fancy ashtrays and other accessories,
plus a wide variety of whiskies, rum, wine, port and
cognacs. The staff is very knowledgeable and happy to
help you make a decision, or why not stay and sample
the selection on-site? Well versed in the finer things in life,
they also have great coffee.QA‑3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24, tel.
(+48) 790 80 22 81. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
74 Wrocław In Your Pocket

A convenience store for beer connoisseurs, here you can
deliberate over your decision as long as you like, and take
as many beers home with you as you can fit under your arm
(or in your suitcase). There are over 600 choice brews from
Poland and abroad, and they stay open late on the weekends
so you can have a nightcap in your room when the bars wear
you out. Second location at ul. Tęczowa 22 (E-4).QE‑4, ul.
Św. Antoniego 27/29, tel. (+48) 506 16 28 42, www. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00.

Herbal vodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in Poland.
Poland is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who
handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and
coveted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without
bringing baby some Baltic Gold and you’ve booked yourself
a stint in the doghouse.
Located in the Town Hall, World of Amber has an impressive
and reasonably priced array of amber-themed jewellery
and pieces. For those less keen on amber, they also offer
other precious stones and metals and took a page out of
the Bohemian book with a small section of crystal-ware. If
amber is on your Wroclaw to-do list, Schubert will do nicely
without killing your travel budget or drawing you away
from the heart of the city.QB‑3, Rynek-Ratusz 20/22, tel.
(+48) 71 343 95 51. Open 09:00 - 19:00.

Antiques are a popular commodity in Poland and you’ll
find no shortage of antiquated oddities in Wrocław. As you
walk about town keep your eyes peeled for signage with
the inscriptions ‘Antyki,’‘Antykwariat’ and ‘Starocie’ (junk); ul.
Kiełbaśnicza (A-3) is a good place to start. Knowledgeable
dealers offer prices comparable with the rest of Europe, but
there are still plenty of bargains and undervalued treasures
to be found. Bear in mind that if you intend to take art that
is more than 50 years old and of a potentially high value
out of the country, you’ll have to get some papers in order
first. Most proper dealers can provide this straight-away,
but you may want to check before opening your wallet.
For artisan galleries in Wrocław, head straight to ul. Jatki
(A-2). In addition to being Wrocław’s oldest, most narrow,
and most charming street, this row of former medieval
butcher stalls is today home to numerous artist studios and
galleries. For non-commercial art gallery listings, visit our
Culture section.
A very professional and absolutely gorgeous antique shop
uniquely located under the Gothic arches of St. Mary
Magdalene’s Church. With over 5000 items for sale from
all over the world - including furniture, lamps, paintings,
graphics, porcelain, glass silver and more - it’s also the
largest antiques salon in Wrocław. All items also available
for sale online - visit the website.QB‑3, ul. Szewska 10, tel.
(+48) 71 341 81 84, Open 14:00
- 19 00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.
76 square metres of art and antiques from all over the world
located in a Gothic brick cellar. The extensive collection
includes a large range of silver, porcelain, Art Nouveau glass,
Art Deco furniture, Polish and German graphics, paintings
and sculpture.QA‑3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24, tel. (+48) 71 344
61 03. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:15 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Poland has a proud tradition of graphic art design for film
and theatre, which has basically developed into its own
genre. This fantastic gallery is the place to check it out
by browsing through binders full of hundreds of designs,
many of them in stock and others available to order. Find
alternative film posters you never knew existed for your
favourite flicks, plus amazing propaganda and theatre
posters. A great place for souvenirs and gifts, if you aren’t
into travelling with a poster tube, check out the amazing
postcard collection. Anyone who appreciates graphic art
will be glad to discover this place; recommended.QE‑4,
ul. Św. Mikołaja 54/55, tel. (+48) 71 780 49 11, www. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.



The Poles have been producing and drinking vodka
since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some
of the best vodka blends available in the world. The two
most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be
Belvedere and Chopin, both of which you’ll find in any
alcohol shop. But you won’t find many tipplers throwing
them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are generally
reserved for weddings and mixed drinks, the real fun of
Polish vodka sampling is the flavoured vodkas, the most
popular of which we describe below.
Undoubtedly the most common flavoured vodka,
wiśniówka is cheap and cherry-flavoured. You’ll see
students and pensioners alike buying trays of it at
the bar, as well as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in
corners of tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit
juice is often added to cut the sweetness of this bright
red monogamy cure.
Due to its very name, which translates to something like
‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the
most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of
its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-coloured vodka
flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa is incredibly
palatable and best enjoyed when sipped on ice.
A sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of
herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking vodka doesn’t
get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a
popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and
mulling spices added.
One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports,
Żubrówka has been produced in Eastern Poland since
the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific
to Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each
bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild
fragrance and taste of mown hay. Delightfully smooth as
it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined
with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka.’
January - April 2016



If you’re interested in checking out some local art and
supporting the local scene, drop by this very cool
gallery full of graphics, photos, illustrations, screenprints,
paintings and more by local artists. They also have quite an
assortment of new and used records to peruse, which you
can trade for your own if you happened to leave home with
some of your least essential records in your suitcase.QE‑4,
ul. Św. Antoniego 28, tel. (+48) 512 48 22 94, www. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Designed by Max Berg, the same innovative concrete
engineer behind Wrocław’s UNESCO-listed Centennial
Hall, this unique market hall has a handsome,
traditional-looking facade, while the interior is a
concrete cathedral of elliptical arches. Worth a look
from an architectural, cultural and practical standpoint,
in Hala Targowa you’ll find earnest locals hawking top
quality fruit and vegetables on the ground floor, as well
as a wide selection of local cheese, salami and hams.
Upstairs is a bewildering array of bric-a-brac, nylon
underwear and plastic kitchen utensils, and a set of
surprisingly clean and modern public toilets. To your
right as you enter the market is one of the city’s best
little no-name, no-fuss pierogi bars. Essential.QC‑2, ul.
Piaskowa 17, tel. (+48) 71 344 27 31. Open 08:00 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
If you want a real cultural adventure that you’ll
remember for a long, long time, head to the no-man’sland behind the Świebodzki train station on a Sunday
afternoon and check out this unbelievable open-air
flea market sprawling endlessly west over the train
tracks. A truly mind-blowing scene, the size and scope
of this market is almost hard to comprehend; from the
main entrance near Plac Orląt Lwowskich it unfolds
through an endless maze of blue and white striped
tents, before devolving into acres of rubbish laid out on
dirty blankets over the train tracks or the muddy, barren
earth. Here you can buy literally anything under the sun
at prices about 50% lower than those you might expect
to find anywhere so audacious as to have a floor or a
roof. Some of it is perfectly legit, of course, some of it
quite dodgy, and most of it complete rubbish. We’re
not mentioning it for the shopping though; amateur
photographers and cultural anthropologists will have a
field day here. Surprisingly close to the market square,
get there while you can, because the city authorities
intend to eliminate this ‘blemish which spoils the
image of the city.’QE‑4, ul. Robotnicza 2, tel. (+48)
71 717 12 54. Open on Sundays only; working hours
vary, but most vendors arrive before 08:00 and are
packing up by 15:00.
76 Wrocław In Your Pocket

The closest thing in Wrocław to the indie record store you’ve
always wanted to open. Run by two devoted owners, this
tiny shop has all the new and vintage vinyl you won’t find in
the ‘megastores,’ plus tonnes of CDs.QB‑4, ul. Kazimierza
Wielkiego 65, tel. (+48) 71 346 89 26. Open 11:00 - 19:00,
Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
This massive store selling books, music, movies, video
games, coffee, greeting cards and more, also has the best
selection of foreign papers and magazines in town, though
you can expect to pay a hefty mark-up for the privilege.
Dictionaries, phrase books, maps and a limited English
language fiction section are also inside. Other locations
in Magnolia Park, Pasaż Grunwaldzki and Renoma (see
Shopping Malls).QB‑3, Rynek 50, tel. (+48) 695 73 07 24, Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.
Wrocław’s finest bookstore, located right in the Town Hall.
With a bit of an alternative bent, and a surprisingly good
English language selection, Tajny Komplety is the kind
of place you could spend the entire day nosing through
comics, art books and even vinyl records. It twins as a cafe,
so don’t expect to be the only one there taking advantage
of the free wifi, coffee, tea, cakes and more.QB‑3,
Przejście Garncarskie 2, tel. (+48) 71 714 23 80, www. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00,
Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Under the arcades near Plac Kościuszki, this vinyl retailer
is actually located on the half-floor above/inside the Pod
Arkadami bookstore (not much of an English section, but
go ahead and ask them to show you). Find crates of used
records at good prices and there’s even a record player
where you can actually listen before buying.QA‑5, ul.
Świdnicka 49, tel. (+48) 796 46 68 12, www.winylove. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed

Located inside Galeria Na Czystej - a small modern building
hidden behind the Renoma shopping mall - you’ll find one
of Wrocław’s best swag shops for the fashionable young
urbanite. Peruse the piles and racks of fannypacks, handbags
made from vinyl records, LEGO earrings, zipper jewellery,
asymmetrical sweaters and so much more - all of it totally
trendy, hip, hand-made and designed in Poland. Second
location inside Sky Tower (ul. Powstańców Śląskich 95, E-6).
QB‑5, ul. Czysta 4, tel. (+48) 795 27 88 39,
Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Located in a highly enviable retail space just off the
market square down ul. Więzienna, this large and beautiful
boutique/’concept store’ features upscale vintage clothing,
designer shoes, signature furnishings, hip fashion accessories
and more. Come to browse the racks, stay for a coffee,
conversation and style tips from the fashionable young
ladies working here.QB‑3, ul. Igielna 14/15 (entrance from
ul. Więzienna), tel. (+48) 71 341 80 77,
pl. Open 10:30 - 18:30, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
This small shop on one of Wrocław’s most engaging
streets sells high-quality women’s fashion and accessories
by top young local designers. Girlfriends love it.QE‑4, ul.
Włodkowica 19, tel. (+48) 508 10 78 73, www.ubieralnia.
pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Despite being very, very, way too similar to Słodkie Czary
Mary, this adorable little sweets shop will still seem just as
much like Wonkaville to your adorable little ones. Filled with
handmade candies, suckers, and plenty of handsomely
wrapped gift packages, candy-making demonstrations
take place regularly at 11:00, 13:00, 15:00 and 17:00 MonFri; every hour on the hour from 11:00-17:00 on weekends.
QA‑2, ul. Odrzańska 8/1, tel. (+48) 505 45 11 41, www. Open 10:00 - 20:00.
A small, charming hand-made sweets shop on the Rynek,
where you watch the candy being made right before your
eyes. Most of the interior is occupied by the long work counter
where young ladies are busy rolling out the colourful candies
that cover the shop shelves as children and their parents
watch in wonder. Proper candy-making demonstrations are
conducted at 13:00, 15:00 and 17:00 weekdays, and every hour
from 12:00-17:00 on weekends. Not only a great local gift idea,
but a unique experience for children, choose from a range of
reasonably-priced lollipops and hard candies that come in
dozens of flavours from rhubarb to whiskey-cola.QB‑3, Rynek
Ratusz 27, tel. (+48) 601 46 15 61, www.slodkieczarymary.
pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.

& Souvenirs

January - April 2016


For over 55 years, this well-recognised company has been
promoting and preserving Polish folk art and handicrafts
with a wide selection of ceramics, wood carvings, knitwork,
wickery and much more. A lot of it’s touristy rubbish, but
we’ve always fancied the folk costumes (our birthday’s
coming up). This shop is huge and seamlessly conjoined to
a folk art gallery. Also at ul. Wita Stwosza 55 (B-3).QB‑2, Pl.
Biskupa Nankiera 5/6/7, tel. (+48) 71 343 59 79, www. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed
Large and perfectly placed on the market square, it’s
no surprise that this is one of the longest-running
and most successful souvenir shops in town. With all
manner of local Wrocław and Polish souvenirs, including
an impressive collection of amber and other jewellery,
gnome figurines, photo albums, t-shirts, bags, magnets,
mugs, keychains, postcards, paintings and more, there’s
even a couch for taking a rest when all those shopping
bags start weighing you down.QA‑3, Rynek 3, tel.
(+48) 71 344 27 74. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 18:00.
If you aren’t familiar
with the universallyloved Bolesławiec style
of Polish ceramic, which
hails from a little town
not far to the west of
Wrocław, then make sure
you drop into this shop
on the market square and educate yourself. Hand-painted
in traditional folk motifs, Vena produces pottery that not
only looks unique and beautiful, but is also practical for
everyday use. This is one of the best collections we’ve seen
anywhere and a foolproof gift-giving plan for anyone with
a kitchen.QA‑3, Rynek 4, tel. (+48) 71 344 43 70, www. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

The Global Blue Card

Your Passport to Great Savings,
The World Over (more information at gb’s website)
1. You are a non-EU traveler
2. In the shop you spent a minimum of 200 PLN
3. You export the purchased goods
outside of the EU

78 Wrocław In Your Pocket

One of Wrocław’s
most centrally located
shopping malls, find
tucked not far behind
the train station. With
110 stores across 30,000
square metres, brand highlights of this upscale retail
centre include Marks & Spencer, Benetton, H&M, New
Yorker, Alma (the country’s upscale grocer) and more.
Other diversions you can seek out are the restaurants
and cafes, Multikino cinema, cushy children’s playpen
and a truly impressive two-storey aquarium. Within
walking distance of most places and easily accessed
by tram, once you’re inside Arkady Wrocławskie,
good luck making your way out again.QA‑5, ul.
Powstańców Śląskich 2-4, tel. (+48) 71 776 11 22, Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00.
Wrocław’s most accessible and well-known retail monolith,
Galeria Dominikańska is a mere five minutes east of the
Rynek, meaning you’re likely to cross paths with it by
accident and you’re probably going to get sucked in.
Among the 100 shops (including Zara, Pull & Bear, Max
Mara, VAN GRAAF, Media Markt and an iSpot) you’ll also find
some restaurants (Pizza Hut, Ohh! Sushi & Grill), a beauty
salon (ManiPedi), and we don’t even need to tell you what
else because you’re already inside, you’re on an escalator,
you’re making eyes with a mannequin, you want to touch
everything, taste it, try it on. The guide is going back in your
pocket, the wallet is coming out...QC‑3, Pl. Dominikański
3, tel. (+48) 71 344 95 17,
Open 09:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
You may have noticed Wrocław has beefed up its skyline,
realising the arrival of its first bona fide skyscraper with
Sky Tower, the sparkling 212m three-tiered behemoth you
see looming over the city just minutes south of the centre.
Comprising a small city in and of itself with residential
apartments, office and retail space, the ‘podium’ level alone
boasts three floors full of boutique shops, restaurants,
cafes, services and sports facilities. Here you’ll find over
80 top name brands, over a dozen restaurants and cafes,
a supermarket, fitness centre and spa, Banda Club - the
largest billiards club in the country, a 24-lane bowling alley,
and plenty more. The design is flat gorgeous and features
an incredible interactive wall gallery on the first floor and a
surreal Salvador Dali sculpture outside the front entrance.
Park your vehicle in one of the 1500 spots or take trams 7 or
20, getting off at ‘Wielka.’QE‑6, ul. Powstańców Śląskich
95, tel. (+48) 71 738 31 11,
Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.


One of the largest pre-war department stores in Europe,
this magnificent consumer showpiece was added to the
Register of Historical Monuments in 1977 and has now
been restored and modernised for today’s retail market.
The unique 1930s facade of ceramic tiles and gilded heads
has been returned to its former glory while inside you’ll
find today’s most cutting-edge brands, plus a third floor
restaurant with fine views of the Old Town. Along with the
original building’s refurbishment, a new modern wing was
added on Plac Czysty. Easily outclassing the city’s other
shopping malls and smack in the centre, if it was in our
disposition to call a shopping mall a must-see attraction,
this would fit the bill.QA‑4, ul. Świdnicka 40, tel. (+48)
71 772 58 20, Open 09:00 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

January - April 2016


Currency exchange offices (‘Kantor’) are easy to find
in Wrocław, but as with any international destination,
it’s imperative to check the rates to ensure you aren’t
getting fleeced. The general rule is you should never
change your money at city entry points, particularly
at the airport where the rates are almost criminal. To
help put your mind and your wallet at ease, we’ve
assembled a list of well-located exchange offices that
won’t rip you off, and don’t take a commission.
KANTORQE‑4, ul. Legnicka 58 (Magnolia Park), tel.
(+48) 71 338 53 65. Open 09:00 - 21:00.
KANTORQB‑3, ul. Oławska 2, tel. (+48) 71 344 10
78. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
QB‑3, ul. Świdnicka 3, tel. (+48) 71 372 35 02, www. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00.
Closed Sun.


AUSTRIAQul. Gagarina 34, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 841
00 81,
BULGARIAQAl. Ujazdowskie 33/35, Warsaw, tel. (+48)
22 629 40 71.
DENMARKQul. Marszałkowska 142, Warsaw, tel. (+48)
22 565 29 00,
FRANCEQul. Piękna 1, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 529 30
GERMANYQC‑4, ul. Podwale 76, tel. (+48) 71 377 27
MEXICOQAl. Jerozolimskie 123A, Warsaw, tel. (+48)
22 311 29 00,
NETHERLANDSQul. Kawalerii 10, Warsaw, tel. (+48)
22 559 12 00,
SLOVAKIAQul. Litewska 6, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 525
81 10,

QD‑1, ul. Sienkiewicza 54/56, tel. (+48) 71 322 73 15.

SWEDENQul. Bagatela 3, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 640 89

QA‑2, Pl. Jana Pawła II 7, tel. (+48) 71 343 67 24.

UKRAINEQAl. Szucha 7, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 622 47

DELIKATESYQA‑3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27.

Qul. Kawalerii 12, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 311 00 00, www.

QA‑3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 72, tel. (+48) 71 794 77 68.


QA‑5, ul. Bogusławskiego 69, tel. (+48) 71 367 06 81.

QE‑4, ul. Legnicka 51-53, tel. (+48) 71 733 13 75, www.
QA‑4, ul. Świdnicka 39, tel. (+48) 71 344 78 25, www.
QA‑3, Pl. Solny 13, tel. (+48) 71 344 86 91, www.izba.
QA‑3, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 41/43, tel. (+48) 71 795
06 56,
80 Wrocław In Your Pocket

DENTAL ARTQA‑6, ul. Komandorska 53a/3b, tel.
(+48) 71 373 22 66,
QB‑3, ul. Oławska 9, tel. (+48) 663 67 77 77, www. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 14:00. Closed Sun.

(Krzyki), tel. (+48) 261 660 373,
QH‑5, ul. Traugutta 116, tel. (+48) 71 789 02 00, www.


QB‑3, ul. Szewska 75/77, tel. (+48) 609 57 53 34. Open
09:00 - 20:00, Sat 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
QA‑3, ul. Psie Budy 10/11, tel. (+48) 71 794 05 73, www. Open 09:00 - 23:00, 4zł/hour.

QB‑3, Rynek 28, tel. (+48) 71 347 19 38, Open 24hrs.
QC‑3, ul. Krasińskiego 1, tel. (+48) 71 347 19 81. Open
09:00 - 19:00, Fri 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

QE‑4, ul. Legnicka 51/53, tel. (+48) 22 332 28 88, www.
QE‑6, Powstańców Śląskich 7a, tel. (+48) 500 90 05 00,
QB‑3, ul. Oławska 15, tel. (+48) 71 343 35 56,

Home of the Pastoral Centre for English Speakers, St. Charles
Boromeusz in Fabryczna is essentially the headquarters of
Wrocław’s international Catholic community. Englishlanguage masses take place Sundays at 16:00. The parish
also offers confession and priest services in English, Englishlanguage wedding ceremonies, etc. Visit their website for
more information.Qul. Krucza 58 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48)
71 361 52 65,

QAl. Jaworowa 14/2, tel. (+48) 71 357 17 87, www.uer.

QE‑5, ul. Piłsudskiego 92, tel. (+48) 71 344 76 65, www.

January - April 2016



Chrapek, the little snorer, sleeps it off outside the Patio Hotel. More gnomes on p.63. | © Klearchos Kapoutsis/ BY 2.0

No matter what end of the price spectrum you’re able to
entertain, in Wrocław you have plenty of options from
5-star presidentials to budget boarding houses, boutique
B&Bs to boisterous hostels, historic apartments to business
suites. The market is positively flooded with hotel rooms
(well over 3,500), with several new options opening each
year. On our website - - we
list literally hundreds of accommodation options in and
around the Lower Silesian capital, with full descriptive
reviews, photos, reader comments, GPS mapping and
more. Unfortunately space constraints in our print guide
no longer allow us to include all of that content here as
we once did, however we still provide an updated list of
reputable hotels, apartments and hostels below. Sleep well.

MONOPOLQA‑4, ul. Modrzejewskiej 2, tel. (+48)
71 772 37 77,
121 rooms (107 singles, 107 doubles, 14 suites). P­H­
6­U­F­K­D­X­C­w hhhhh
PLATINUM PALACEQul. Powstańców Śląskich 204
(Krzyki), tel. (+48) 71 327 06 00, www.platinumpalace.
pl. 46 rooms (41 singles, 41 doubles, 5 suites). P­H­6­
U­F­K­D­w hhhhh
RADISSON BLUQC‑3, ul. Purkyniego 10, tel. (+48)
71 375 00 00,
162  rooms (13  singles, 144  doubles, 5  apartments).
P­H­6­U­F­K­D hhhhh
82 Wrocław In Your Pocket

QA‑3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 67, tel. (+48) 71 358 83 00, 205  rooms (189  singles,
173 doubles, 15 apartments). P­H­6U
­ ­FK
­ ­D­w
QB‑4, ul. Mennicza 24, tel. (+48) 71 395 26 00, www. 46 rooms (39 singles, 39 doubles,
7 apartments). P­H­6U
­ ­FK
­ hhhhh

QA‑2, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 20, tel. (+48) 71 787 74 00, www. 80  rooms (17  singles, 55  doubles, 6  suites,
1 apartment). P­H6
­ ­U­FL
­ K
­ ­X hhhh
QA‑2, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 16-19, tel. (+48) 71 782 55 55, 78  rooms (77  singles,
65  doubles, 1  apartment). P­H­6U
­ ­FL
­ ­K­D
QA‑3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 2, tel. (+48) 71 372 34 15, 28  rooms (24  singles,
22 doubles, 4 apartments). H­6K
­ hhhh

P Air conditioning N Credit cards not accepted
F Fitness centre

H Conference facilities

K Restaurant

U Facilities for the disabled

D Sauna

L Guarded parking on site

6 Animal friendly

w Wellness

C Swimming pool X Smoking rooms available

Your home in Wroclaw

QA‑3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27a, tel. (+48) 71
371 44 00, 36  rooms (36  singles,
33 doubles). P­H­U­F­K­D­w hhh
QC‑2, ul. Św. Idziego 2, tel. (+48) 71 327 14 00, 45  rooms (1  single, 43  doubles,
1 apartment). P­H­U­L­K­D hhhh
QB‑1, ul. Drobnera 11-13, tel. (+48) 71 320 84 00, 177  rooms (156  singles,
156 doubles, 19 suites, 2 apartments). P­H­6­U­K­
D­w hhhh

Purkyniego 10, Wrocław
Phone: 71 375 00 00

QC‑3, Pl. Dominikański 1, tel. (+48) 71 323 27 00, www. 151  rooms (144  singles, 144  doubles,
7 apartments). P­H­6­U­K­w hhhh
Qul. Muchoborska 10 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 735
03 50, 132 rooms (127 singles,
115 doubles, 3 suites, 2 apartments). P­H­6­U­F­K
QE‑4, ul. Włodkowica 6, tel. (+48) 71 772 51 00, www. 102  rooms (102  singles, 97  doubles).
­ ­L­K hhh
Magdaleny 2, tel. (+48) 71 797 98 00, www.qubushotel.
com. 83 rooms (83 singles, 62 doubles, 3 apartments).
­ U
­ ­F­K­D­C hhhh
SCANDIC WROCŁAWQA‑5, ul. Piłsudskiego 49/57,
tel. (+48) 71 787 00 00,
164 rooms (164 singles, 164 doubles). P­H­6­U­F­
K­D­X hhhh
Mikołaja 61-62, tel. (+48) 733 35 55 35, www.sleepwalker.
pl. 12 rooms (3 singles, 3 doubles, 9 apartments). P­H­U

January - April 2016


BUGATTIQul. Kosmonautów 328 (Fabryczna), tel.
(+48) 71 349 35 23, 20  rooms
(17 singles, 17 doubles, 3 triples). P­H6
­ ­K hhh
Włodkowica 18, tel. (+48) 71 346 29 81,
8 rooms (8 singles, 4 doubles). P­6­UX
­ hhh
QA‑1, ul. Jagiełły 7, tel. (+48) 71 326 78 00, www. 110  rooms (109  singles,
109 doubles, 1 apartment). P­H­6U
­ K
­ hhh


A pleasant stay
in Wrocław’s
Old Town
• convenient
• comfortable for
work and relaxation
• free wi-fi
• welcome package in each room
• TV with Canal+
• restaurant serving Polish
and International cuisine
• conferences, trainings
and banquets

ul. Jagiełły 7, 50-201 Wrocław
Tel. +48 71 326 78 00, Fax: +48 71 326 78 01,

84 Wrocław In Your Pocket

Standing on the former site of a 14th-century Franciscan church & monastery at ul. Modrzejewskiej 2 (A-4),
illustrious banker Wallenberg-Pachaly and architect
Karol Grosser tore down the crumbling ruins in 1890
and built a neo-Baroque hotel and neo-Renaissance
trading house here, officially opening it as the ‘Hotel
Monopol’ in 1892. The decades that followed saw the
Monopol become the most famous hotel in town with
Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich and even Hitler himself
staying here; a special balcony was added to room 113
so that Der Fuhrer could use it to address the crowds
below. In 1948, Pablo Picasso came to town for the
‘International Congress of Intellectuals in Defence of
Peace’ and painted ‘Dove of Peace’ in his room. Zbigniew Cybulski - the Polish James Dean - also shot several famous movie scenes in the hotel.
Closed in 2006 and sold to the Likus Hotel & Restaurants Group, the Monopol was thoroughly renovated
and reopened in 2009. Rooms are immaculately decorated with turn-of-the-century antiques, and the building features two fabulous restaurants (Acquario and
Monopol), as well as two seasonal rooftop terrace bars
(La Terazza and Sky Bar). Once more the most exclusive
and luxurious hotel in town, if you can afford to sleep
in this historic locale you’ll find that the experience is
worth the money.

CENTRUM DIKULQA‑2, ul. Cieszyńskiego 17-19, tel.
(+48) 71 796 77 66, 32 rooms (11 singles,
19 doubles, 1 suite, 1 apartment). P­U hhh
DUETQA‑3, ul. Św Mikołaja 47-48, tel. (+48) 71 785 51
00, 39 rooms (34 singles, 34 doubles,
5 apartments). P­H­6­K hhh
QB‑5, ul. Piłsudskiego 88, tel. (+48) 71 772 10 00, www. 95 rooms (19 singles, 64 doubles,
12 apartments). P­H­6­U­K hhh
QC‑5/6, ul. Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, tel. (+48) 71 733 48
00, 133 rooms (133 singles, 108 doubles,
21 triples). P­H­6­U­L hhh
QB‑3, ul. Wita Stwosza 22/23, tel. (+48) 71 341 97 38, 63  rooms (23  singles, 40  doubles).
­ hhh
NOVOTELQul. Wyścigowa 35 (Krzyki), tel. (+48) 71 339
80 51, 145  rooms (145  singles,
145 doubles). P­H­6­U­K hhh
PATIOQA‑3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24-25, tel. (+48) 71 375 04
00, 50 rooms (42 singles, 42 doubles,
8 apartments). H­6­K­X hhh
QA‑5, ul. Piłsudskiego 66, tel. (+48) 71 343 10 21, www. 107 rooms (28 singles, 79 doubles).
6­U­K hhh
QH‑1, Al. Kromera 16, tel. (+48) 71 364 97 00, www. 107  rooms (100  singles, 77  doubles,
7 apartments). P­H­6­U­K­D­C­w hhh
QB‑5, ul. Piłsudskiego 104 (entrance from ul. Gwarna
23), tel. (+48) 71 372 32 00, 31 rooms
(31 singles, 31 doubles). P­H­6­U­K­D­w hhh
QC‑2, Wyspa Słodowa 10, tel. (+48) 71 322 60 99, www. 57 rooms (14 singles, 38 doubles,
3 triples, 1 apartment). H­6­U­K hhh
QH‑5, ul. Na Grobli 28, tel. (+48) 71 343 36 67, www. 18  rooms (9  singles, 7  doubles,
2 suites). H­K hhh

January - April 2016


AKIRA BED & BREAKFASTQF‑2, Pl. Strzelecki 28,
tel. (+48) 71 323 08 88, 21  rooms
(21 singles, 17 doubles, 2 triples). 6­U
QB‑4, ul. Piotra Skargi 24-28, tel. (+48) 71 324 09 80, 140 rooms (140 singles, 140 doubles,
2 triples, 2 quads). P­H6
­ ­UX
­ hh
QA‑3, ul. Białoskórnicza 6, tel. (+48) 71 342 44 72, www. 13  rooms (12  singles, 12  doubles,
1 quad). 6
QA‑1, ul. Pomorska 32/26-29, tel. (+48) 71 793 86 82, 9 rooms (9 singles, 9 doubles, 3 triples).

ul. Pomorska 32, 50-218 Wrocław
tel./fax 71 793 86 82

QB‑5, ul. Piłsudskiego 98, tel. (+48) 71 343 00 33, www. 92  rooms (80  singles, 74  doubles,
12 suites). P­H­6­UK
­ hh
Qul. Lotnicza 151 (Pilczyce), tel. (+48) 71 353 84
48, 122  rooms (118  singles,
118 doubles, 4 triples). P­6­U h
QA‑5, Pl. Kościuszki 19, tel. (+48) 71 344 30 71, www. 26  rooms (20  singles, 17  doubles,
4 triples). 6

QD‑4, ul. Walońska 7/1, tel. (+48) 667 71 71 71, www. 50 rooms (50 apartments). 6
QB‑3, ul. Krawiecka 6/4, tel. (+48) 515 13 81 77, www. 70 rooms (70 apartments). P
QB‑2, ul. Więzienna 21, tel. (+48) 71 330 71 21, www. 55 rooms (55 apartments). 6­L­K
QB‑3, ul. Wita Stwosza 15, tel. (+48) 730 89 99 88, www. 20 rooms (20 apartments). 6
QB‑3, ul. Krawiecka 3, tel. (+48) 698 68 83 44, www. 33 rooms (33 apartments). P­6

86 Wrocław In Your Pocket

QA‑3, ul. Św. Antoniego 15, tel. (+48) 71 798 96 36, 132 rooms (2 singles, 17 doubles,
6 triples, 6 quads, 93 apartments, 34 dorm beds, 1 fiveperson room, 4 six-person room, 3 eight-person room).
BOOGIE HOSTELQE‑4, ul. Ruska 34, tel. (+48) 71 342
44 72, 20  rooms (19  singles,
19 doubles, 19 triples, 2 quads, 8 dorm beds). P­6
CINNAMONQB‑4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 67,
tel. (+48) 71 344 58 58,
10 rooms (3 singles, 3 doubles, 44 dorm beds). 6
GRAMPA’S HOSTELQF‑3, Pl. Św. Macieja 2/1, tel.
(+48) 71 321 92 40, 9  rooms
(2 singles, 2 doubles, 48 dorm beds).
HOSTEL BEMMAQF‑4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 15,
tel. (+48) 531 53 15 98, 17 rooms
(11 singles, 11 doubles, 25 dorm beds). 6
HOSTEL KOMBINATQA‑4, ul. Świdnicka 24/4, tel.
(+48) 71 344 66 77, 5  rooms
(2 doubles, 1 triple, 13 dorm beds).

Comfortable stay in the city center
Świdnicka 24/26 lok. 2, Wrocław
tel. 0048 602-50-66-47,

MLECZARNIAQE‑4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71
787 75 70, 8 rooms (4 singles,
4 doubles, 4 triples, 1 quad, 34 dorm beds).
MOON HOSTELQA‑3, ul. Krupnicza 6-8 (entrance
from Kazimierza Wielkiego 27), tel. (+48) 508 77 72 00, 26  rooms (10  doubles,
7 triples, 3 quads, 3 5-person rooms, 2 6-person room, 1
8-person room). 6­L
ST. DOROTHY’SQA‑4, ul. Świdnicka 24/26 lok.2,
tel. (+48) 602 50 66 47, 6  rooms
(2 apartments, 15 dorm beds).


THE ONE HOSTELQB‑3, ul. Rynek 30, tel. (+48) 71
337 24 02, 22  rooms (8  singles,
8 doubles, 2 quads, 106 dorm beds). H
WRATISLAVIAQC‑5, ul. Komuny Paryskiej 19, tel.
(+48) 71 360 08 22, 33 rooms
(2 singles, 5 doubles, 3 triples, 16 quads, 10 apartments,
40 dorm beds). 6­U

Qul. Rakietowa 33 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 773
55 75, 52 rooms (52 singles,
52 doubles). P­H­6­U­K hhh

ul. Rakietowa 33, Wrocław
tel.: + 48 71 773 55 75,

January - April 2016


Street Register
Al. Armii Krajowej
F-7, H-7
Al. Boya-Żeleńskiego
Al. Kochanowskiego
Al. Kromera
Al. Matejki
Al. Słowackiego
Anny, św.
Antoniego, św.
Arrasowa B-4
Bałuckiego A-5
Barycka D-1
Barycka G-3
Baudouina de Courtenay
Bema, gen.
Bema, gen., pl.
F-3, G-3
Bernardyńska C-3
Białoskórnicza A-2
Biskupia B-3
Bogusławskiego A/B-5
Bohaterów Getta, pl.
Bolesława Chrobrego
Borna, pl.
Borowska A-6
Bożego Ciała
Bożego Ciała
Brodatego Henryka
Brzeska D-6
Bulwar Dunikowskiego
Bulwar Włostowica
Ciepła F-6/7
Cieszyńskiego A-2
Cieszyńskiego F-4
H-4, I-4
Cybulskiego A/B-1/2
Czerwonego Krzyża
Czesława, bł.
Czysta B-4/5
Czysty, pl.
Dąbrowskiego, gen.
G-2, H-2/3
Dębickiego F-2
Dobra E-4
Dobrzyńska D-4
Dobrzyńska G-4
Dominikański, Pl.
Doroty, św.
Drobnera B/C-1
F-3, G-3
Druckiego-Lubeckiego A-4
Druckiego-Lubeckiego F-5
Dubois A/B-1
Dubois F-3
Dworcowa B/C-5
Dyrekcyjna B/C-6
Dyrekcyjna F-6
Elżbiety, św.
E-2, F-2
Franciszkańska A-4
Franciszkański, pl.
Frycza-Modrzewskiego C-2/3
Gajowa C-6
Garbary A/B-2
Garncarska C-3
Gepperta A-3
F-6, G-6
Gnieźnieńska E-2
Grabiszyńska E-5
Grodzka B/C-2
F-4, G-4
H-3/4, I-3
Grunwaldzki, pl
Gwarna B-5

Gwarna F-5
Haukego-Bosaka C/D-4
Henryka Brodatego
Henryka Pobożnego
Hercena C-5
Hercena G-5
Hlonda, kard.
Hoene-Wrońskiego H-4
Hubska C-6
Chemiczna H-3
Idziego, św.
Igielna A/B-3
Igielna F-4
Inowrocławska E-3
Jadwigi, św.
Janickiego C-3
Jatki A-2
Jedności Narodowej
Jedności Narodowej F-3, G-2/3, H-2
Joannitów B-6
Jodłowa B-3
Joliot-Curie D-2/3
G-4, H-4
Józefa, św.
E-7, G-7
Kanonia C/D-2
Kapistrana, św.
Kapitulna D-2
Kard. Hlonda
Kard. Wyszyńskiego G-3/4, H-2/3
Kaszubska F-3
Katarzyny, św.
Katedralna C/D-2
Katedralny, pl.
Kazimierza Jagiellończyka
Kazimierza Wielkiego
Kazimierza Wielkiego
Kaznodziejska B-3
Kiełbaśnicza A-2/3
Kilińskiego C-1
Kniaziewicza C-5
Kołłątaja B-4/5
Komandorska A-5/6
Komandorska F-6
Kominka, kard.
Komuny Paryskiej
Komuny Paryskiej
Konstytucji 3 Maja, pl.
Kościelny, pl.
Kościuszki A-5
F-5, G-5
Kościuszki, pl.
Kotlarska A/B-3
Kraińskiego C-2/3
H-6, I-7
Krasińskiego B/C-3/4
Kraszewskiego F-2
Krawiecka B-3
F-2, G-2
Krowia B-3
Krowia F-4
Krupnicza A-3
Krzysztofa, św., pl.
Księcia Witolda
Kurkowa A-1
Kurzy Targ
Kurzy Targ
Kuźnicza B-2/3
Kuźnicza F-4
Łaciarska B-2/3
Łąka Mazurska
H-1, I-1
Łąkowa A-4
Łazienna A-2

88 Wrocław In Your Pocket

Ledochowskiego D-1
Leszczyńskiego A-3
Łokietka Władysława
Łukasińskiego D-5
Macieja, św., pl.
Małachowskiego C-6
F-5, G-5
Malarska A-2
Marcina, św.
Marii Magdaleny, św.
Marsz. Piłsudskiego
E-5, F-5
Matejki, al.
Mazowiecka D-3/4
Mennicza A/B-4
Miernicza D-5
Mieszczańska A-1
E-3, F-3
Mieszka I
Mieszka I
Mikołaja, św.
Młodych Techników
Modrzejewskiej A-4
Muzealna A-4
Na Grobli
Na Niskich Łąkach
H-6, I-6
Na Szańcach
Na Szańcach
Najświętszej Marii Panny
Namysłowska G-2
Nankiera, bp., pl.
Nasypowa A-5
E-5, F-5
Nehringa H-4
Niemcewicza C-1
Nobla F-3
Nowa B/C-4
F-5, G-5
Nowowiejska H-3
Nowy Świat
Nowy Świat
Nowy Targ, pl.
Nożownicza B-2/3
Nożownicza F-4
G-7, H-7
Odrzańska A-2/3
Ofiar Oświęcimskich
Ofiar Oświęcimskich
B-3, C-4
F-4, G-4
G-7, I-7
Otwarta A-1
Otwarta F-3
E-1, G-1, H-2
Paulińska A/B-1
Pawła Włodkowica
Piaskowa C-2/3
Piłsudskiego, marsz.
Plac Bema
Plac Borna
Plac Dominikański
Plac Franciszkański
Plac Grunwaldzki
H-4, I-4
Plac J. Szeli
Plac Jana Pawła II

Plac Katedralny
Plac Legionów
Plac Nowy Targ
Plac Orląt Lwowskich
Plac Polski
Plac Powstańców Śląskich
Plac Powstańców Warszawy G-4
Plac Powstańców Wielkopolskich
Plac Rozjezdny
Plac Słowiański
Plac Solny
Plac Strzelecki
Plac św. Krzysztofa
Plac św. Mikołaja
Plac Teatralny
Plac Uniwersytecki
Plac Westerplatte
Plac Wróblewskiego
Plac Zgody
Podwale A/C-3/5
E-4, F-3, G-4/5
Polski, pl.
Pomorska A-1
Pomorska F-3
Poniatowskiego, ks.
Powstańców Śląskich
Powstańców Śląskich
Powstańców Warszawy pl.
G-5, H-5
Prądzyńskiego, Igancego, gen.
Pretficza E-6/7
Probusa Henryka
Prusa C/D-1
G-3, H-3
Przejście Garncarskie
Przejście Żelaźnicze
Przeskok D-1
Ptasia F-3
Psie Budy
Psie Budy
Pułaskiego, gen.
Purkyniego, Jana Ewangelisty
Rakowiecka I-5/6
Rejtana B-5
Rostafińskiego B-1
Rostafińskiego F-3
Ruska A-3
E-4, F-4
Rydygiera B-1
Rydygiera F-3
Rychtalska G-2
Rynek A-3
Rzeźnicza A-2/3
Sienkiewicza C/D-1
G-3, H-3, I-3
Skargi, ks.
Składowa A-1
Skwerowa A-6
Ślężna A/B-6
Słodowa C-2
Słowackiego, al.
Słowackiego, wybrzeże
H-4, I-4
Solny, pl.
H-3, I-3
Środkowa E-4
Śrutowa B-1
Staromłyńska C-2

Stawowa B-5
Strażnicza A/B-2
Sucha B/C-6
F-6, G-6
Sukiennice A/B-3
Św. Anny
F-3, G-3
Św. Antoniego
E-4, F-4
Św. Doroty
Św. Ducha
Św. Ducha
Św. Jadwigi
Św. Józefa
Św. Katarzyny
F-4, G-4
Św. Mikołaja
E-4, F-4
Św. Wincentego
Świdnicka A/B-3/5
Świętokrzyska C/D-1/2
Świstackiego D-6
Swobodna A-6
E-5, F-5/6
Szajnochy A-3
Szarzyńskiego H-3
Szczytnicka D-2
G-4, H-4
Szewska B-2/4
Teatralna B-4
Teatralny, pl.
Traugutta C/D-4/5
G-5, H-5
Trzebnicka B-1
Ukryta H-3
Uniwersytecka B-2
Uniwersytecka F-4
Uniwersytecki, pl.
Walońska D-4
Warzywnicza C-1
Wąska A/B-1
Widok B-4
F-7, G-7
Wierzbowa B-4
Więzienna B-2
Więzienna F-4
Wita Stwosza
Wita Stwosza
Wita, św.
Witolda, ks.
Władysława Łokietka
Włodkowica E-4
Wodna B-2
Wolności, pl.
Worcella C/D-4/5
Wróblewskiego, pl.
Wybrzeże ConradaKorzeniowskiego F-2
Wybrzeże Słowackiego
Wybrzeże Wyspiańskiego
Wyspa C-2
Wyszyńskiego, kard.
F-2, G-2
Zaolziańska A-6
Zapolskiej A-5
Zaułek Wolski
Żeromskiego D-1
Zgodna H-5
Zyndrama z Maszkowic
Zyndrama z Maszkowic E-3, F-3

Absynt Hostel
Ahimsa Restaurant & Club 40
Akira Bed & Breakfast
Akropolis 25
Ambasada 49
Amorinio 42
Antyki przy Szewskiej
Aquarelle 25
Archaeology Museum
Archdiocese Museum
Architecture Museum
Arkady Wrocławskie
Art Apart
Art Cafe Kalambur
Art Hotel
Barka Tumska
27, 41
Baszta 40
B&B Hotel
Bernard 27
Best Western Prima
Bezsenność 50
Bierhalle 48
Blackboard Pub
BLT & Flatbreads
Bobolandia 72
Boogie Hostel
Boogie Hostel Deluxe
Boutique Brajt Hotel
Boutique Brajt Restaurant 36
Brasserie 27
Breadway 41
Browar Złoty Pies
Bugatti 84
Cafeterie Chic
Campanile Wrocław Stare
Miasto 84
Capri Ristorante Pizzeria 33
Cathedral of St. John the
Baptist 66
Centennial Hall & Discovery
Centre 68
Centennial Hall Parking
Central Cafe
41, 42
Centrum Dikul
Cepelia 78
Chaiyo Thai Massage Centre 73
Charlotte Chleb i Wino
Chatka Przy Jatkach
Church of Saints Peter & Paul
Church of the Holy Cross / St.
Bartholomew's 65
Cilantro Bed & Breakfast 86
Cinnamon 87
CIŻ Cafe
Cocofli 42
Coctail Bar Max & Dom Whisky
Cukier Lukier
Czary Mary
Czekoladziarnia Wrocław 43
Darea Sushi Korean - Japanese
Restaurant 34
De' Molika
Dobra Karma

90 Wrocław In Your Pocket

Domówka 50
Duet 85
Dwór Polski
36, 82
Empik Megastore
Eter Club
Ethnographic Museum
Europejski 85
Europeum 83
Exclusive World Apartments 86
Exit Room
Food Art Gallery
Free Walking Tour Foundation
Fu-Ku 77
Galeria Dominikańska
Galeria Handlowa Sky Tower
Galeria Schubert
Galicja 36
Giselle French Bakery Cafe 41
Grampa's Hostel
Hala Targowa
Hortyca 39
Hostel Bemma
Hostel Kombinat
Hotel Jana Pawła II
Hotel Piast
HP Park Plaza
Ibis Budget Wrocław Stadion
Ibis Styles Wrocław Centrum 85

Iglica 68
Infowro Jatki Wrocław
Inny Świat w Piwniczce
Gotyckiej 75
Jacek i Agatka
JaDka 36
Karczma Lwowska
Knajpa Kres
37, 59
Kontynuacja 45
Kwatera Główna
La Dolce Vita
La Maddalena
La Scala
Las/Zupa 26
Le Bistrot Parisien
Le Chef
Leoapart 86
Lothus 85
Lower Silesian Cultural
Information Centre
Lucky Apartments
Lwia Brama
28, 66
Machina Organika
Malawi Night Club
Mañana Cafe
Marina 29
Marynka Piwo i Aperitivo 46
Masala Indian Restaurant 25
Mercure Wrocław Centrum 83

Military Museum
Miś 40
46, 87
Moaburger 23
MOHER Vintage & Design 77
Monopol 82
Monopol Spa & Wellness
Centre 73
Monument to the Victims of
the Katyń Massacre
Moon Hostel
Nadodrze Cafe Resto Bar 29
Nagi Kamerdyner
National Museum
Natural History Museum 66
Neon Side Club & Gallery 46
New Jewish Cemetery
Niebo Cafe
Nietota 51
Novotel 85
Od Koochni
OK Wine Bar
Old Havana Cigar Shop &
Lounge 74
Old Jewish Cemetery
Padbar 47
Papa Bar
Park Hotel Diament Wrocław
Partisan Hill

Street art abounds abound in Wrocław, including this mural on ul. Pomorska (A-2) by Erica Il Cane. For
more turn to p.61.

Patelnia 26
Patio 85
Pergola Ice Rink
69, 72
Pergola Restaurant
Phathathai 39
Pierogarnia Stary Młyn
Piwnica Świdnicka
PiwoCzas 74
Plac Targowy Świebodzki 76
Platinum Palace
Pochlebna 30
Pod Fredrą
Pod Latarniami
Pod Papugami
30, 48
Polish Poster Gallery
Polonia 85
Post & Communications
Museum 59
Powoli 41
Przystań 30
PURO Hotel Wrocław
Quality System Hotel Wrocław
Qubus Hotel Wrocław
Racławice Panorama
Radisson Blu
Ragtime 46
Renoma 79
Restauracja Acquario
Restauracja Europejska
Restauracja Monopol
Restauracja Patio
Rodeo Grill Steak House 23
Sarah 34
Savoy 86
Scandic Wrocław
Setka - Bar Polski Ludowej

38, 49
Sezam 72
Shopiq 76
Silver Apartments
SkyBowling 72
Sky Tower
SleepWalker Boutique Suites
Słodkie Czary Mary
Soczewka 24
Sofia 85
Sofitel Wrocław Old Town 82
Spiż Brewery
Stare Jatki
Stary Klasztor
St. Dorothy's
Steinhaus 35
St. Elizabeth's Church
St. Giles Church
St. Martin's Church

St. Mary Magdalene's Church
Sukiennice 7
Szajba 48
Szczytnicki Park
Szklarnia 48
Sztrass Burger
Szynkarnia 49
Tajne Komplety
Taverna Española
Terminal Hotel
The Anonymous Pedestrians
The Bente Kahan Foundation
The Granary La Suite Hotel
Wroclaw City Center
The Naked Swordsman
The One Hostel
The Ossolineum
The Royal Palace, History
Museum 60
The White Stork Synagogue 71
The Winners Pub
Tourist Information
Town Hall, Museum of
Burgher Art
Tumski 85
Ubieralnia 77
University Church of the
Blessed Name of Jesus
Va Bene Trattoria
Vega 41
Vena Pottery
Vertigo Jazz Club & Restaurant

33, 46
Vinyl Cafe
Water Tower
Wicar's Pub
Winylove 76
Wodnik 85
Wodnik Restaurant
Wratislavia 87
Wratislavia Tour
Wrocław Aquapark
Wrocław City Tours
Wrocław Contemporary
Museum 58
Wrocław - Silesia Tours
Wrocław Souvenirs
Wrocław Stadium Ice Rink 72
Wrocław University
Wrocław Zoo
Złe Mięso
ZZ Top

Not listed here?
More listings online:

Neon is back and buzzing in Wrocław. Check out the signage at
Neon Side Gallery (p.46), and learn more on p.62.

2016 Capital of Culture
Breakfast 41
Breweries 48
Currency Exchange
Decoding the Menu
Facts & Figures
Hot Beer?
Konspira 59
Language Smarts
Live Music
Market Square
Market Values
Milk Bars
Monopol Hotel
Neon Wrocław
Pasaż Niepolda
Polish Food
Polish Snacks & Shots
Polish Vodka
Quick Eats
Racławice Panorama
Sky Tower
Street Art
The Lamplighter
Wait, Where Am I?
Wrocław contemporary museum
Wrocław Historical Timeline
Wrocław IYP Online
Wroclaw University
January - April 2016


street mural
water equipment rental

Jewish cemetery
view point