55039

I N.S

T

R U C

T

! O

N S

MODEL 68/95/96/1600/1650/1651/1652/1654/1750

ZlG-ZAG

SEWING

MACHINE
P/N 55039

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Adjusting for Good Stitches ..................... 38 Adjusting Pressure of Presser Foot ............. 10 Adjusting Tensions ........................... t2 _ 13 Applique .............................................. 26 Basting ................................................ Biind Stitching ...................................... Buttonholes .................................... 11 t9 20 - 25

Overcasting

...................

'.......................

27

Parts List ........................................ 36 - 37 Picking Lp Bobbin Thread ........................ 10 Placement of Needle ............................... 5 Removing Bobbin Case from Shuttle .......... Reverse Stitching ................................... Replacement of Belt ............................... Setting Stitch Length ............................. Setting Stitch Width ............................... Sewing Light ......................................... Sewing on Buttons ................................. Sewing on Lace ..................................... Sewing on Plastic Films ........................... Sewing on Stretch Fabrics ....................... Sewing with Reverse Pattern Disc .............. Straight or Three- Cornered Tear ............... Synthetics ............................................ Threading Upper Machine ........................ Turning a Corner .................................... What to Do ..................................... Winding the Bobbin ................................ Writing and Monogramming ............. 6 11 31 11 16 4 19 26 30 27 16 26 30 9 15 34 - 35 7 , ....... 27

Changing the Presser Foot ....................... 15 Cleaning and Oiling ........................... 31 - 33 Connecting Machine ............................... 4 Darning ............................................... Decorative Stitching ............................... Double Needle ................................. Fastening a Seam .................................. Feed Dog Control ................................... 18 17 28 - 29 15 !5

Identification- Head Parts ...................... 2 -3 Inserting Bobbin into Bobbin Case ............. 8 inserting Pattern Disc .............................. 16 Inserting and Removing Material ................ Installing Machine Head .......................... Needle and Thread Table ......... '. ............... Needle Size .......................................... 14 4 5 5

FRONT

VIEW

o o @ o
O

®
® ®

1. 2. 3, 4. 5, 6.

Hand Hole Cover Plate Feed Dog Presser Foot Presser Foot Thumb Screw Thread Guides Thread Tension Assembly

7. 8. 9. 10. 11.

Thread Guide Face Cover Plate

12. 13. 14. 15. t6.

Stitch Stitch Light Fead

Width Length Switch Dog

Control Control

Knob Lever

Thread Take.up Arm Cover Plate Bobbin Winder Mechanism

Control Plate

Knob

Nomenclature

BACK

VIEW

¢

17. _,. 39

Ho_d Clutch

Wheel Knob. R_verse Stitch _'3. 24. Presser Fo_,_ Kr,_b Upper Thread G_es 22. Bobbi_ W,_der Tension

_5, 26. 27. 28,

Presser Foot L_v_r Ne_dlQ Clornp Sc,ew Threod Cutte_ Needle Plato

_u_tonhole

{.ength Control 20. Upper Thread Spool_ Pros

O in place. Plug machine cord outlet. from socket. To counter clockwise. in new 4. Lay the plastic discs over Discs and pins are packed in the SEWINGIGHT L The sewing light is located inside the face cover plate as shown. open the face push bulb in slightly. See illustration 5.INSTALLING MACHINE HEAD PORTABLE IN ANDCABINET Loosen edge of cabinet the two hinge screws bed Sllp under holes in the rear the machine cutout _2_. and tighten hinge screws Lower machine head to Screw spool pins the spool pins. _3 . Raise hinge pins in the machine head onto the pins securely front flap. 11_. turn by swinging clockwise. In order to operate the machine the switch must he on. accessory box. push See illustration CONNECTING MACHINE Push bed wall the plug onto three-prong plate. remove and turn off. To remove cover plate turn bulb bulb. O O replace. It may be turned on or off by pushing the light switch. light it and bulb switch open. connector into any under 110-120V the .

Comparison this illustration will determine whether needle your you mach_. Cotton 40.60 50 heavy duty 16 Heavy Medium Heavy Heaviest 18 heavy duty Heaviest Mercerized Mercerized Cotton 30-50 :_o heavy drapery cottons woolen Mercerized NEEDLE SIZE Use KENMORE conform to the to the material. The size of the needle should size of the thread and both should be suitable The same size thread should be used in the the upper part of the machine for ordinary use a bent needle nor one with a blunt point. Hold away as far clamp. laces weight weight weight weight weight FABRIC needle by you. Never 6021 needles. bobbin as on sewing.NEEDLE ANDTHREAD TABLE THREAD Cotton Synthetic Silk A 60-80 50 60-100 PLACEMENT OFNEEDLE Raise sition synthetics SIZE NEEDLE SiZE Sheer cottons. Sllp go into tighten needle powheel clamp If|at the the the -I + s_Jk L and 11 i Fine toward screw+ side needle needle needle Loosen the from with Cotton Mercerized Synthetic Si_k A Medium cottons Silks synthetics woolens cottons weight fabrics as for coating men's work c|othes woolens 14 Medium Medium Light as it will and screw.+ _ + ) II I|/ ii ! is the exact length of the needle to with the for be used in your machine. This I I . clamp bar turning to its highest hand needle you. have is the correct one .

straight .REMOVING BOBBINASE C FROM SHUTTLE Needle at its highest position. Pull out latch. Pull bobbin case out.

... . bobbin is full.. . it clicks.....%. mechanism .... _i¸i¸ ii!i: _6_ _ ...WINDING THE BOBBIN 0 Place post._-.... winder 0 Tighten and clutch knob remove bobbin. by knob Start 0 Wind bobbin thread a few around times.. 0 When winding stops...... ki.......--_ _ .. 0 Release turning toward machine. thread Draw on spool /"-__ thread as _/_11_-_:.:: : 0 Place bobbin Push latch bobbin winder bobbin until onto shaft...... clutch clutch you.. ..

. release latch. INTOSHUTTLE Guide bobbin onto center pin of bobbin case.. position case into shuttle.INSERTING BOBBIN INTOBOBBIN ASE CASE C . Holding [atch. Pull thread under tension spring...... Pull thread through slot. 0 0 • / 0 \ 0 ..

When thread tension is released. . the spring wire loop will return to pos_t_on as shown with the thread in proper place. Prevent the spool of thread from turning and by holding the end ol the thread pull spring wire loop up and pa_t the top hook until the thread can be slipped nto the hook. Release spool of thread and continue to th'ead machine as illustrated.THREADING MACHINE UPPER Place thread as illustrated between discs of the Thread Tension Assembly.

. the inner pin should of presser inner pin be about or it half way down. Place threads back under presser i YiL::)] ii_. This will release pressure foot... For ordinary sewing. _]i Bring bobbin thread up by pulling See illustration.... if feed dog or presser on the fabric. needle thread loosely wheel toward you one in left complete band and turn.__ ADJUSTING THEPRESSURE OFTHEPRESSER FOOTPush down outer ring of presser foot knob See illustration)... when sewing sheer fabrics.. push down until suitable pressure is obtained. Insufficient pressure may cause skipped thickness increase stitches or difficulty in guiding foot marks appear the fabric. thread. When sewing multiple heavy material..PICKING BOBBINHREAD UP T Raise Hold hand presser foot lever. upper foot. rotate _Di YI . reduce the pressure... I0 . reduce the pressure. To increase pressure.

of the foot. the pins the presser the head on presser 11 . When basting very sheer fabrics. It often called BASTING For accomplishing quicker. reverse stitching. at right foot. use a paper backing.SETTINGTITCH S LENGTH The stitch length lever controls the stitch length. your KENMORE angles Also to the reduce will seam pressure sew and over the pins. we suggest you regulate the maciline in the following manner. 4 the longest stitch is obtained. Set lever to any desired stitch length position between 0 and 4 by turning knob until the indicator is aligned with the stitch length number desired. The red mark indicates the setting for a satin stitch. Basting is easily removed by pulling bottom thread. more even and firmer basting. The size of stitch you select will depend on fabric you are sewing. Lower lever for and end most seams with reverse forward stitching stitching. V REVERSE STITCHING Raise lever for is best to begin back tacking. Straight stitching is done with stitch width control on 0 setting and by removal of pattern disc. At No. Set stitch length at No. 4 for the longest possible stitch. If you prefer Be pin sure away to to use keep from pins for basting. This will vary slightly depending upon the type of material to be sewn. Machine should be threaded in normal manner except bypassing the check spring as illustrated.

(Refer to page 38) Fig.O ADJUSTING TENSIONS A perfect two layers stitch will have with threads no loops locked on top between or the of fabric bottom. 2 Upper thread too tight Decrease Tension O Upper thread too loose Increase Tension Fig. 1 PROBLEM REMEDY 0 Fig. 3 12 .

13 . upper tension [ frequently When 1 and cause upper stitch seam may and is satisfactory. and the both Turn Clockwise. the tension Turn Counter decreased. the tension slight on the DECREASE TENSION adjustments ISee page 38) It is necessary tension to reduce the when As the upper doing stitch should i thread decorative width be is somewhat stitching. make a screwdriver. J be adjusted. adjust the Lower thread less tension.INCREASE TENSION Whenstitchingis figures thread requires than the 2 and tension. is badly be lower tight may tensions as in figure puckered. adjustment upper thread unsatisfactory as in 3. Clockwise. J When bobbin with adjusting case. increased.

* The presser foot are both tight. Operating threaded machine without fabric will cause it to jam by forcing thread into the shuttle. width been drawn the machine.INSERTING ANDREMOVING THEMATERIAL For all kinds 5. first turn hand wheel toward you until needle is at its highest position. lower presser foot and start sewing. See pages 32 and 33. then raise the presser foot. . controls are set at Experiment by sewing on the fabric to be and used to determine tension correct stitch settings.The kind sizes of of work and needle clamp thread screws suit the To remove the work. insert the needle into the material by turning the hand wheel toward you. Stitch desired length and settings. The needle and highest position. Before placing see that : of sewing. take-up been . . Always have fabric under the presser foot when operating the machine. IMPORTANT: Always turn the hand wheel toward you! When machine is not being used. needle and to be done. the presser foot lever can be raised beyond the normal "up" position. * The tensions have lever properly are at their adjusted. the consult chart page material on the machine Place material under the presser foot. adjustments 14 . place a piece of material over the feed dog and lower the presser foot. * The ends of the threads have about 4 inches to the rear of *The feed dog is up. To facilitate placement of heavy fabrics under the presser foot. draw material to the rear and cut off excess thread with the thread cutter located on the presser bar.

Stitch in reverse until needle reaches beginning of seam. FASTENING A SEAM iI j Be sure both threads are drawn back under the presser foot. Tighten the screw using the large screw driver and make sure that the foot is secure. FEED CONTROL DOG The feed dog control knob is situated on the right front of machine bedplate. insert from the front. foot and continue Raise presser stitching. kl N TURNING CORNER A Stop Turn sewing fabric. For regular sewing. Push stitch length control lever up for reverse stitching. choose the proper foot. feed dog drops and does not: pull material. as for darning. 15 . turn knob to the right. When you reach the end. machine Lower with presser needle in fabric. "U" _Feed dog up). Loosen the presser foot thumb screw.CHANGING THEPRESSER FOOT The various attachment feet to be fastened to the presser available bar. When knob is turned to the left. raise the stitch length control lever and sew back over ½ inch of completed seam. raise the presser bar to its highest position by raising the presser foot lever. foot. for certain kinds of work are To attach the foot. This allows the operator freedom of movement of material. Move stitch length control lever down for forward stitching and complete seam. Lower needle into fabric about ½ inch from beginning of seam.

To do this. Straight or by removal When not be sewing advanced is possible dis_:. required an extra used. stitch control is 22. 3. Turn Pull handwheel pattern disc so that the shaft cover needle open. must ! to 4. discs. 2. The position pattern pattern reverse for most discs. slip the disc onto the shaft so the engraved dot is at or as near (countercloek. illustrated used. provided 23 and 24. control INSERTING PATTERN DISC i. 0 and 4 of with Turn the stitch on the knob. lollower. Grasp pattern disc and slip disc onto the shaft. this control to the right or to on page 17. grasp disc toward you be sure to and pull place a scrap To remove pattern from shaft. should in the type of control patterns to be with four reverse When using these be set upright fabric slightly at 4.. needte setting. should be upon Turn to obtain piece o[ the the the fabric stitch length materials. wise) the cam follower as possible. the steps SEWING ITHREVERSE W PATTERN DISC Your machine numbers 21. i_|f under tollow the turn the machine presser 1 and hand wheel is threaded._g enters hole in disc. To start a pattern at the beginning. double 2_. foot_. Make sure the retaining pin . discs the length control _. 16 . of fabric disc. align the engraved dot on the disc with the cam follower _. If the engraved dot is not aligned until the with dot the cam is aligned.ZIGZAGCONTROL SETTINGTITCH S WIDTH lnsert between disc _1. may need the left as Practice on Depending adjusting. stitching pattern the beyond width Zigzag knob stitch only the with stitch to the width control width desired increases on setting from 0 setting. 2. is in its highest position.

> >> ! i 10 21 22 23 by the means disc. set at 4. 2]. See page 27. with double should be for the stitch Disc number 21 also makes the stretch stitch when on Stretch Fabrics. 22. prevent the the tension should bobbin thread from be decreased. lengt h numbers All patterns and 24. Sewing width and will length at of material can be length in the stitching. the is used as [or prevent the fabric. stitch width slightly depending or width. Stitch by When using using the satin stitch length will vary any the other disc fo0St. It is necessary to reduce the upper thread tension is increased. the to of various discs Basic decorative red mark be sewn. 23 it [ be changed page 25. on the Pattern needle. to sew beautiful The movements decorative of the and needle at embroidery stitches are controlled by 4 and stitch upon the type also stitch directed decorative the are made with plate. coming up on instructions As somewhat This will the top of puckering 17 . material from made control € I 1 2 6 7 8 9 24 = t J DECORATIVE STITCHING This machine supplied with stitches indicator may See enables your you machine.

With presser work. Use medium machine speed. Stretch Lower fabric presser tightly bar 3. and remove Turn feed fabric. 2. Turn feed dog control to left. 4. When you finish darning. presser foot. Replace dog control to 3. presser darning. raise the pressure presser foot lever for general sewing. two will foot knob. between so thread embroidery some tension. Then turn fabric and continue stitching. Turn Remove Proceed feed dog control to left.DARNING WITHPRESSER FOOT: 1. Fast movement will darning area. 2. hoops and When place you foot knob Press down outer ring of in this position. etc. presser foot and remove fabric. pressure Turn feed When you for general dog control finish darning. WITHOUT PRESSER FOOT: 1. stitches. raise sewing by pressing to right. mending. darn. presser foot. 18 . may be done. monogram spring have see page 10. darning 5. You Slow movement of fabric will make short make long stitches. move fabric back and forth to cover sewing at right angles to the previous can make any length stitches desired. as directed under steps 3 and 4 above. Increase down inner pin of the presser foot knob. under start to needle. and increase right.

place a straight pin or needle between the holes of the button. Drop feed dog.. Fold along garment garment back along basting fold using disc _ 2. li using a 4 hole button repeat the above procedure. Adjust stitch width so that needle will align with a hole of button. O BLIND STITCHING Disc _ 2 Stilch Stitch width 2 _May length 3 vQry depending on type of materiol] 1.o O Align two holes of button with slot of presser foot and lower foot to hold securely. Finish sewing with an extra 2 inches of thread. turning hand wheel manually. or hem with a turned raw and edge edgestitched with either Apply seam tape straight or zigzag along the stltching. 3. may be eliminated in a straight The hem. @ NOTE: To make a small thread shank when sewing on a flat button. 19 . Turn hem and baste about _ inch from the edge of the seam tape using longest stitch on the sewing machine. d. Stitch a number of times.SEWING NBUTTONSu. draw thread to reverse side and tie securely. readjust stitch width if necessary.. 2. 5. llne and basting stitch step O 4. Remove basting and press hem. Turn hand wheel by hand until needle point is just above button. Turn hand wheel again by hand so that needle goes into second hole. Prepare the [inlsh.

let the needle pierce the fabric at the beginning of the buttonhole. under the buttonhole foot. Turn the dial to the minus direction for shorter stitches. 1600. The buttonhole reverse stitch length control _C_) is used to match the length of the reverse stitches with the forward stitches. Stitch forward until the needle reaches the red zone on the front edge of foot. Reproduction of identical size buttonholes is facilitated with the aid of the graduations on the left side of the buttonhole foot. and an interfacing in the if used The stitch length may be varied slightly by the stitch length control lever within the 0 to 1 range. 1650. Then turn the knob to R. while sewing. Always make a practice garment. let the needle pierce the fabric and set the index mark CA_ on the upper portion of the foot at the same graduation mark CB_ as it was set for the first buttonholeo Lower the foot. Without lowering the foot. t651. These graduations are 1/8 inch apart. and stitch the other side of the buttonhole. See page 21. Set the foot so the beginning of the red zone _closest to the needle_ is at the mark of the opposite end of the buttonhole. These settings may vary depending on the type of fabric used. 1652) Stitch tength at red mark Buttonho[e control knob F Feed dog cantrol U Place the fabric. 2O . Turn knob back to F to finish end of buttonhole. Follow the procedures outlined above. The speed with which the knob is turned determines the number of stitches at the ends of the buttonhole. To increase forward stitch move this lever from the red mark toward 1. 95. with the buttonhole length marked at both ends. Just mark the starting points of the buttonholes. Lower the foot. buttonhole thickness on a scrap of fabric used of fabric. to the plus direction for longer stitches. The slower the knob is turned. the more stitches are formed. to decrease move it toward the 0. using a double in garment.Use disc _: I and special buttonhole _oot BUTTONHOLES (Models 68.

Position 1 Step 1 Position 2 Step 2 V v V ¸ v _ _••: A"_ F R rr/ :a. << << << < << << 21 .

4!_ • " Remove and plate. pin hole buttonhole plate into place fitting over the 22 pinion gear.about 1_ Feed dog control-Lef_ Covet plate for butlonholes I! /. insert regular cover plate cover Select snap desired into guide template plate. and Pull guide plate all the way forward so that guide pin is at S. This will enable you to start at one end of the buttonhole.BUTTONHOLES (Models 96. .__:/i Covet" l_Jo I a @ 0 i. 17501 Use disc _ 1 Stitch width knob. Screw guide pin on guide plate on machine Drop guide with template into guide bed.

_ . stitch on width heavy may be The buttonhole size and shape is not influenced by the stitch Length knob so it may be set on any position. buttonhole guide plate and draw toward back. A wider desirable fabrics. Use buttonhole cutter open. Loosely woven fabrics and fabrics that stretch easily such as jersey should have an interfacing of a firm fabric.HINTS PERFECT FOR BUTTONHOLES O O ii!_ _ _: ! .: : i . scissors to or cut buttonhole Pick up bobbin thread through threads material Drop sewing. An occasional drop of oil on the oiling hole provided on the back of the buttonhole cover plate wilt provide of your smooth operation buttonhole maker. start be presser foot Buttonhole Always make a practice buttonhole on a piece of the fabric to be used in the garment. Use cambric or taffeta between woolens and rayons-organdy light weight or lawn between and sheer fabrics.: Mark the position o[ each buttonhole with chalk on the garment or a line of basting. Place on the guide and will plate. weight 23 . formed.

Screw guide pin on guide ptate into guide pin hole on machine bed. Select desired size of buttonhole by turning disc as shown above. Length of buttonhole appears in window on top s{de of guide plate.BUTTONHOLES (Model t654) Use disc # 1 Stitch width knob. Screw guide pin on guide plate into guide pin hole on machine bed. This will enable you to start at one end of the buttonhole. Pull guide plate all the way forward so that guide pin is at S. 24 .Left Cover plate for buttonhotes 0 _[uidepinhol! 0 _ pinL0_ _ear Remove regular cover plate and insert buttonhole cover plate. Drop guide plate into place with template fitting over the pinion gear.about 1 Feed dog control.

A wider desirable fabrics. Buttonhole will be formed. stitch on width heavy may be weight 25 . The buttonhole size and shape is not influenced by the stitch tength knob so it may be set on any position. Use buttonhole buttonhole cutter hole open.HINTS FOR PERFECT BUTTONHOLES O O Mark the position of each buttonhole on the garment with chalk or a line of basting. Loosely woven fabrics and fabrics that stretch easily such as jersey should have an interfacing of a firm fabric. Always make a practice buttonhole on a piece of the fabric to be used in the garment. An occasional drop of oil on the oiling hole provided on the back of the buttonhole cover plate will provide smooth operation of your buttonhole maker. Drop presser foot and start sewing. scissors or cut button- to Pick up bobbin thread thraugh guide plate and draw threads toward back. Use cambric or taffeta between woolens and rayons-organdy or lawn between light weight and sheer fabrics. Place material on the guide plate.

. applique SEWINGNLACE uso O . Continue STRAIGHT ORTHREE-CORNERED TEAR U_e disc _ 6 Stitch width 4 Stitch [ength at red mor_ Position tear under needle and stitch along the straia ght tear catching sides of material. stitch from each end mending to center._: Baste cutout 4. Position fabric and lace so that stitching right stitch catches left edge of lace.. Place fabric under the presser foot anti position lace inch from edge of fabric. length at the red around Set mark stitch width 2 to on the indicator completely cover- plate. Zigzag stitch ing the raw edge._o_1 Set stitch width to 2.1 . 26 . When three cornered tear. so that edge of lace is overcast.APPLIQUEu_o . Set stitch applique to fabric. Set stitch length to 2 or 3.

Stitch width 0 Stitch lenglh 4 Use with knitted fabrics and stretch fabrics. The seam can be pressed open without breaking thread. hands. Set stitch width as desired. Slip hoop lower presser bar and thread through fabric.o_2. Set stitch length Zigzag stitch around raw edge of fabric cover the edge. Sew as you do straight stitching. 27 . Writing is done with stitching. stitch guiding fabric carefully by i iill _ ! ii!!!iiiiiiiilZiiiiiiiii!iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii SEWING NSTRETCH O FABRICSu_o _. Remove presser for straight or zigzag stitches and fabric under the needle. along marked outline.: _1 A U_e Free hand Stitch width 0 to 4 Feed dog control Left Draw initials or words fabric into embroidery either zigzag or straight foot. to about 3. Machine will make triple lock stitches back and forth. WRITINGNDMONOGRAMMINGd._ Set stitch width to 4. to completely f.OVERCASTING d_s° u. . to be sewn on fabric and fit hoops. take one stitch to raise bobbin Using a medium speed.

only mercerized sewing thread is recommended thread size 50 or finer. The same for both upper and lower thread- 28 .DOUBLE NEEDLE 1. as position assembly far as it and with will loosen needle flat side away go into needle from you. THREAD SELECTION When using double needle do not set stitch width higher than 2½ setting. needle sewing except where Draw one thread through through each needle of thread through. as for single needle each side of the double thread guides and from front to back. THREADING THEDOUBLE NEEDLE Place a spool of thread on each spool pin. SETTING THEDOUBLE NEEDLE Raise clamp the needle bar to its highest screw. clamp. of tension dis_:s of the thread Pass a thread between tension assembly. Draw both threads each set Continue through upper thread guides. and 2. threading as you would for single double thread guides are provided. 3. Hold double needle Slip the needle tighten the screw. Use size ing. Pull several inches Thread bobbin and pick up bobbin thread sewing.

presser stitching 29 . STITCHING All decorative starting the patterns any handwheel are possible operation. presser in the turn fabric. beyond needle. take the turn. without width touching presser foot control must not be 5. and stitching needle shift one and with tip just fabric begin stitch. manually. a double piercing half Raise the the t needle. direction.4. TURNING CORNER A To the turn. lower foot new a stop square stitching Raise presser again. corner with the foot complete when the longer foot. drop enter The 23 Before stitching check by turning fabric stitch setting. with Needle and needle advanced double needle should plate.

When stitching a fabric of hlended or cnmbined fibers. Dupont's Acrylic fiber. with cellophane tape or pape_ clips slightly rounded rather than square. the usual way. Hold plastic pieces rather than pins. _elect patterns of the loose fitting type with sleeves. *Orion. and a large size stitch. rayon. Choose the stitch length that gives the most satis|actory thickness tension thread seam. When stitching a fabric that is over 50% synthetic fiber. Sew _Trademafk for Dupont's 3O . as recommended in chart on page 5.ions by sewing on a double fabric to be used. d. of the must he tensions f_ Check thread ten.SYNTHETICS Your KENMORE will sew all the new fabrics of synthetic fiber. tot fiber. such as nylon. Use Use a s_'nthetic a fine needle thread. a fabric woven of 60% Orlon and 40% silk should be handled as one made entirely of Orlon. handle it as you would a material of the fiber present in the [arRest percentage. _ _Dacron. acetate. remember: a. Wind the bobbin in ween tension discs. and are not absorbent. 13L SEWING NPLASTICILMS O F Set the Use a together corners _Trademark polyester machine with normal thread tensions fine needle and mercerized thread. and combinations of synthetic and natural gibers. Sometimes both bobbin and upper must be loosened _pages 12. blends o| these. Usually the upper thread loosened. but do Guide thread by hand not pass thread betfor a smoothly wound e. because most synthetic fiber fabrics wltil steam pressing. bobbin. c. For example. cap cannot or he kimono eased b.

Pull belt out over hand wheel. Let motor down gently.REPLACEMENT OFTHEBELT Push motor against machine and remove belt from motor pulley. B. & C. oil Fig. should be done with a small brush. i ! noise. place machine oil A. CLEANING ANDOILING Keep the moving parts free from dust and thread Cleaning When for quiet and efficient operation. Install new belt reversing the above procedure. machine a at runs hard or makes excessive sewing in figs. A 3_ . drop of KENMORE the points indicated Swing points hinged face cover plate open to indicated at end o{ machine head.

the shuttle particles of race thread of any with lint or a small pin race 1. remove remove cover too plate.t!_ at top of machine head. 2. 32 4.e. 3. B It may be necessary to clean the shuttle area occasionally.o. Raise the needle bar to its highest point and remove bobbin ca_. Clean small brush. To _. screws F. oil on the center and on shuttle . Put a drop of of the shuttle _see arrows). Push levers sideways from the shuttle assembly and lift shuttle race cover and shuttle out by the center pin. :_ and lifft cover._: take disc out from machine.

Snap the levers into position. remove the needle plate and clean feed dog with a soft brush.To reass_mble. Shuttle Race Cover Shuttle Shutlle Race 33 . Occasionally. hold shuttle by center pin and fit carefully into assembly opposite the shuttle driver. Slip shuttle race cover into place.

Unevenly wound bobbin. For thread and fabric (page 5_. upper fabric. of needle. ii PROBLEM CORRECTION m Incorrect Improper 'i Loose size needle.WHAT TO DO '1II i= II PROBABLE CAUSE . Bent or blunt needle. Reset Increase Upper Insert Reset Use tension_s_ on 12. presser underlay sheer or too soft. setting Reset needle _page I :I Bunching of Loose presser foot. 15_. be same size and klnd. Beset presser foot _page 15_. presser bobbin 15_. or tarlatan when stitching.page _poge thread 5_. _pages presser foot Cpage 10_. I irregular Stitches Pulling Light Loose it gently. for thread and fabric _page 5). increase Reset Rewind pressure foot on presser _page 7_. Foot (page 10)_ pressure presser an fao_. thread _page thread fabric. choose Rethread tension. Choose correct guide it gently. Puc_:ering pressure t_reod new and needle foot presser Foot _page should Using two different kinds of thread. Incorrect size Incorrect Do not pull fabric. Fabric too sizes or bobbin _. Loose presser foot. threads presser not foot. presser foot. Draw Raise both feed thread threads dog back under 15_. ! Thread _page Incorrect thread tension_s_. size needte 5]. _page Breaking Needle Pulling fabric. Upper drown Feed end back dog lower under down. Light pressure on presser foot. 13_. Tighten Do not correct machine upper pull size needle 9_. threading. 10_. tension guide _page 12_. needle. oF tissue paper 34 .

. 35 . Place both to stitch. needle. tension. presser back foot _page presser _0_. 32. 33t. speed. Choose Insert Reset Loosen Increase correct new need|e upper size needle _'page 5_. :_poge for 12_. Raise increase feed dog pressure . need{e. threading. 13_. tension presser 57. threads under Machine Jamming _Knocking Noise_ Thread caught in shutt{e. _'page 10_. 33). of need|e.page on 151. tension. foot. Incorrect Sharp eye size in thread needle Improper bobbin case threading tension. on presser under _oot. Disc_ssemble and cleon shuttle _pages 32. Rethread Loosen Choose Insert machlne upper correct new ipage upper thread size tension needle _page 5_. foot before beginning pressure knotted Threads fabric. Check Loosen Clean bobbin bobbin babbln case thread threading tension shuttle _poge _page (pages 8_.WHAT TO DO . on presser pressure on Starting _mproper Breaking Upper Thread Tight to stitch too |ast. for thread and |abric _page 5_. Breaking Bobbin Tight Lint in bobbin bobbin thread case or shutt|e. thread needle. needle _poge thread upper pressure thread _poge foot 12_. i ii i i n i i i i I II I II [ I I IIIII III ill II IIIIIIIIIIIIIIII Illill I I PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSG CORRECTION IncOrreCt Ben_. c<_se csr_ Thread Feed Fabric Moving not Light dog down. and Fabric _poge 5_. or Skipping Stitches Tight Light Incorrect size b{unt setting neecl_e. Start to stitch at a medium 91 .

Sears retail store.PARTS LIST All parts listed here may be ordered through your nearest Sears or Simpsons. catalog sates office or mail order house. @ @ @ @ @ ® @ @ @ 36 .

_crew in yellow case Ref. 23 Pattern disc No. 14 Single needtes No. Parts number(s) and description(s) here.please besureto mentionhefollowing t references : 1. or parts will be shipped at prevailing prices and you will be bilged accordingly. 21 Pattern disc No. 2. 6 Pattern disc No. 3 Pattern disc No. No. 7 Pattern disc No. 11 Single needles No. 10 Pattern disc No. prices will be furnished on request. 17980 26929 F502 6510 6797 30!5 3076 26841 26842 26843 26844 26845 26846 26847 26848 26849 26850 2t_6t 26862 26863 26864 Description Shuttle Needle hook clamp Ref. No= 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Par s No. 6741 6742 6743 6744 _tion No. When ordering by mail. No. 2 Pattern disc No. Ref. 9 Pattern disc No. Model serialnumbers machine & of shown onthenomenctature plate. PartsNo. 18 Single needles Bobbin winder rubber Nylon disc disc Thread spool pin Bobbin winder tension Straight stitch foot Zigzag presser foot Satin stitch foot Presser foot thumb Motor rubber belt Needle threader Buttonhole 1-1!16" 1-1/16" foot template template Keyhole Regular .When ordering these parts. 8 Pattern disc No. Seepage 2. 10 PartsNo. 16 Singte needles No. 24 Double needle in ivory case 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 2I 22 Buttonhole Buttonhole Buttonhole 1939 2273 8286 1222 740 9363 6870 135 6902 6864 6854 8939 8940 8941 8942 _293 9021 !3t16" Regular template 5/8" Regular template 6! 16" Reguatr ayelel 15/16" temptate Regular template template end 9 6745 37 . 4 Pattern disc No. 9022 9023 9020 9181 9_62 32736 1/2" Regular 3/8" 5/8" Regular Keyhole template template template cover plate guide plate guide plate in red case in green case in blue case ring 23 24 25 Bobbin Bobbin case Light bulb Large screw driver Small screw driver Pattern disc No_ 1 Pattern disc No. 5 Pattern disc No. 22 Pattern disc No.

Check the thread tension balance.ADJUSTING When 1. properly threaded per inch. 2. tension. obbin tension may be reset by the following procedure. c. If seam is puckered-both tensions are too tight. a correct size needle thread as it will not length at forming Set the stitch in half diagonally. if if If If bobbin. If the top thread lays on the fabric-loosen upper thread test. and fabric Insert a new needle of the correct Consult chart on page 5 for'needle size for size. Grasp a. Check threading carefully. and and repeat repeat both threads break-tensions neither thread breaks-both upper thread breaks-loosen lower thread breaks-tighten are balanced. 4. c. Figure 3. If the bottom thread lays on the fahrictighten upper thread test. upper tension. 3. oth threads do not have to break at the same place. the stitching and pull with a snap to make threads loose. Do not try this test with synthetic break. Use mercerized thread. Fold a 6 _ square a line of stitching _'_ from into the case. tension. tensions are too upper tension. Figure 2. b. but they should break on the same _ap. Start with a loose bobbin thread msion. See page 12. your sewing YOUR machine does SEWING not sew MACHINE a properly the FOR locked GOOD check you STITCHES the are following: using. Tighten the spring screw gradually until bobbin case and full bobbin can be gently lifted from your hand by the end of the bobbin thread. thread The upper and bobbin thread should be matched in size and type. of your fabric fold. d. Make a. b. stitch. See page I2. Begin with a full about 12 stitches a triangle. and for the fabric you are using. break. See page 9. 38 .

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and LIMITED. Toronto..SEWING MACHINE SEARS.S. Ontario. 55039 9/91 . Canada Printed in Japan Part No. IL I U. ROEBUCK SIMPSONS-SEARS AND CO. Chicago.A.