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FRESH. TASTY. BOLD.
Barcelona THe InSIDer’S
eating out cocoa the
tiosn evuotlue bud aialeRp yo r ast Cockt sh k u mixes to
how Far would you go For a Freebie?
FREE SUMMER PULLOUT: SIZZLING BBQs, CIDER, MUSHROOMS
t’s our first issue and we’re proud to bring it to you just as the first barbecues are getting underway. Our summer pullout has all the essentials for a great day in the sun. Don’t worry, we’ve given you a few indoor suggestions for rainy days too! We promise to keep you happy, inspired and full, with quirky recipes, new facts, cool reviews and good reading. (We won’t, however, teach you how to ‘cook with kids’ or ‘feed your Josefin testing hubby with his favourite grub’.) the delicious chocolate cake Instead, we’re showing you how to whip up cocktails without recipe on p.31 all the faff (p.14). Every month we put a new food-related issue in our Feast spotlight, and investigate the issues and people behind the headlines. This time we’re focusing on freeganism (p.24), the movement which encourages a “waste not, want not” lifestyle by bin-diving for their food. Feast is made for you, and we hope you have as much fun with it as we’ve had making it. Do let us know what you think. We’re never more than an email, tweet or Facebook comment away. Or send us an old school postcard. We love those. A problem shared is a problem halved, and the same goes in the kitchen. Share your cooking problems on our Feast forums at feastmagazine.co.uk. Whether you’re cooking for your housemates, partner, parents or first date, we’ll make sure it’s a feast. (Last cheesy pun, I promise.)
Josefin Wendel, editor
Subscription enquiries: 0114 394 4875, or subscriptions@ feastmagazine.co.uk Editorial enquiries: 0114 563 9548 Email: readers@feastmagazine. co.uk Web: feastmagazine.co.uk With thanks to Peter Genower, Jonathan Foster, Natalie Tomlinson, Emmanuelle Chazarin Moi, Alyesha Ingrouille, Greg Vinden, Helen Lawson, Justus van Leeuwen and Megan Adams.
Meet the team
Cocktail maker and chocoholic, Stuart, found out all about ethical chocolate making (p.2 He has won an aw 9). ard for his own innovative cockta il recipes, and went to meet the pros in our cockta il school (p.14).
Lancashire lass and expert cupcake maker, Jayne, visited a local espresso ba r to star t your own food learn how to business (p.32). She spent last ye ar living in Barcelona and isn ’t afraid to share her insider advice. Check out her Gastronaut’s guid e (p.10).
feast: your new food magazine: fresh, tasty, bold
the feast inbox
Our first issue hadn’t even left the printers before you started sending us your thoughts, tricks and ideas and had us roaring with laughter. Keep it coming.
Dear Feast I’ve been a membe r community for m of your online I’m really excited onths now and of the magazine. for the first issue become an avid coI imagine I’ll love the web commllector of Feast. I chatting with lots unity; I’ve been and swapping lot of other foodies s of tasty recipes. I’m always trying find I’m too busy to cook but often to job of it. It looks lik make a good great way for me e Feast will be a good cooking tips to pick up really with my hectic sc that will fit in hedule. Kelly Smith, Lond on Dear Feast
Dear Feast, Just wanted to say how much I’m looking forward to your new magazine. I love cooking and picking up new recipes from magazines, but there’s never usually much more substance than that in foodie mags. I’m looking forward to reading your features and interviews- I’ve seen this month’s Cocoa article advertised on your website and can’t wait to get into it (I’m something of a chocoholic). Here’s to a great new read! Jenny Martin Congrats, Jenny, we love where you’re coming from! We’ll be sending you a £70 voucher for iwantoneofthose.com - the ultimate online gadget shop.
bolognaise recipe The Feast spaghetti s immense. It from the website wa ake and I’ve got m was really easy to in the freezer acks of it piled up looking forward st now. I’m definitely when the es to more great recip comes out. I would ine finally magaz e original twists like to try out morPerhaps a lasagne? on classic dishes. will be looking I also travel a lot sols on food from ecia out for your sp It would be great around the world. from Thailand at to hear about food ing there for two some point. I’m go. months next year ll be a huge Hopefully Feast wi success. Paul Forest, Newca stle
The retro recipe challenge
Rifling through our mums’ recipe books, the Feast team came across some immense retro recipe pages and cards. Who wouldn’t want stuffed peppers dished up like that? A triumph of 70s presentation. And it got us thinking. There must be a wealth of retro disasters on a plate just waiting to be found. So send us in your most horrifying recipe pages and each month we will reward the best offering with a signed copy of Delia Smith’s Complete Illustrated Cookery Course (1989), which is a whole encyclopedia of horrors on its own. Trifle not included. Good luck!
A whole lot of Tweeting going on
@joe_oliver Just set off fire alarm with my risotto. @tomtomhastings has subsequently promised to buy me the new @feastmagazine once it’s out. @emmanuellechaz Yay!! So excited to hear that you’re launching a new food magazine. Sounds like it’s gonna be ace. @electricdress I’m cooking my housemates dinner tonight. Roasted butternut squash with stuffed tomatoes, mmm.. Thanks @feastmagazine!
For the latest info, recipes, news and events and to enter all of our competitions, join us on Facebook at: Feast Magazine
like the pros in ...learn to mix ‘em school, p. 14 il Feast’s new cockta
...spend a tasty weekend in Barcelon a with our insider’s Gastronaut guide, p. 10
In this issue...
3 editorial welcome 4 the feast inbox 5 contents 6 what’s new 10 gastonaut: Barcelona 14 drink it: cocktails 17 ask it: your queries answered 19 cook it: cous cous 20 make it: ready steady 24 spotlight on: freeganism 28 mythbusters 29 food for thought: cocoa 32 do it: starting a cafe 34 food heroes: firestation 38 eat it: Higgidy pies 40 try it: reviews 43 cook it: eggs 44 recipe index 45 next issue 46 reader profile
for a ...come dumpster diving free dinner, p. 24
...meet the g fairtrade c uy who started his o hocolate co mpany, p. wn 29
...who are the heroes keep ing these boys’ bellies happy? p.
This month it’s all about...
Grab a handful of crackers and dive straight into the Artisan Cheese Fair at Melton Mowbray
...jotting these dates down in your diary and celebrating the start of summer with one of June’s exciting food and drink extravaganzas.
28th may - 5th June, english wine week, nationwide
Celebrate some of the coutry’s top plonk by cracking open a bottle during English wine week. Wineries up and down the country will be offering tastings and tours. www.englishwineweek.co.uk
16th – 19th June, Taste of london, regent’s Park, london
30th may – 5th June, national bbQ week , nationwide
The taste of London is an event not to be missed if you’re a hardcore foodie. 40 of the city's best restaurants will be dishing up their finest wares in an unbeatable alfresco gourmet feast, while 200 producers provide a bounty of the best food and drink the capital has to offer. www.tastefestivals.com/london/
Don’t let the weather put a dampener on your summer barbie- get the coals smouldering and get involved in the biggest grill of the year. www.nationalbbqweek.co.uk
17th – 19th June, Cheltenham Food and drink Festival , Cheltenham, gloucestershire
9th – 12th June, Taste of dublin , iveagh gardens, dublin
Enjoy a fresh catch during Pembrokeshire Fish Week, from 15th June until 3rd July.
Travel to the Emerald Isle for a sample of Dublin’s top restaurants and live cooking demonstrations from the likes of Italian Gino D’Acampo, Rachel Allen, Atul Kochlar. www.tasteofdublin.ie
In the heart of the English countryside food lovers gather for the annual Cheltenham Food and Drink Festival. Sample produce from over 150 exhibitors and watch creative cookery demonstrations from local chefs. There’s also a host of live bands playing and street theatre to enjoy whilst having a munch. www.gardenevents.com/cheltenham/
11th – 12th June , artisan Cheese Fair , melton mowbray, leicestershire
18th – 19th June , The big eaT! weekend , newcastle/gateshead
Whether it’s a strong cheddar or a gooey brie that makes you go weak at the knees, the Artisan Cheese Fair is a dairy-lover’s paradise. www.artisancheesefair.co.uk
The Big EAT! Weekend takes over the streets and squares of Newcastle and Gateshead to celebrate the best of what the Tyne has to offer the culinary world. www.eatnewcastlegateshead.com
15th-19th June, bbC good Food show, neC, birmingham
Pictures: Flickr/crouch247, Flickr/muyyum, Phil Dowsing
25th June - 3rd July, Pembrokeshire Fish week , Pembrokeshire, wales
The daddy of all food shows featuring celebs like James Martin, John Torode and Mary Berry, and appearances from Masterchef contestants. There are also grow your own vegetable garden workshops and the food producer’s village. www.bbcgoodfoodshow.com
James Martin is among a host of top chefs appearing at the BBC Good Food Show
A celebration of the country’s delicious seafood, stunning coastline and bonny beaches. Tuck into fresh local produce at cosy restaurants and pubs, or learn how to get the best out of your fish and shellfish with master classes, workshops and special cookery classes. www.pembrokeshirefishweek.co.uk
For more food events info, visit the Feast website at: www.feastmagazine.co.uk/events
What’s new on
The san pellegrino Top 50
1. Noma, Copenhagen 2. El Celler de Can Roca, Catalonia 3. Mugaritz Gipuzkoa, Spain 4. Osteria Francescana Modena, Italy 5. The Fat Duck Bray, Berkshire, UK 6. Alinea, Chicago 7. D.O.M, Sao Paulo, Brazil 8. Arzak, San Sebastian, Spain 9. Le Chateaubriand, Paris 10. Per Se, New York 11. Daniel, New York 12. Les Creations de Narisawa, Tokyo 13. L'Astrance, Paris 14. L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, Paris 15. Hof van Cleve Kruishoutem, Belgium 16. Pierre Gagnaire, Paris 17. Oud Sluis Sluis, Netherlands 18. Le Bernardin, New York 19. L'Arpège, Paris 20. Nihonryori RyuGin, Tokyo 21. Vendôme Gladbach, Germany 22. Steirereck, Vienna 23. Schloss Schauenstein Graubunden, Switzerland 24. Eleven Madison Park, New York 25. Aqua Wolfsburg, Germany 26. Quay, Sydney 27. Iggy's, Singapore 28. Combal Zero Rivoli, Italy 29. Martín Berasategui, Basque Country, Spain 30. Bras Laguiole, France 31. Biko, Mexico City 32. Le Calandre Padua, Italy 33. Cracco, Milan 34. The Ledbury, London 35. Chez Dominique, Helsinki 36. Le Quartier Français Franschhoek, S. Africa 37. Amber, Hong Kong 38. Dal Pescatore, Milan 39. Il Canto, Siena, Italy 40. Momofuku Ssäm Bar, New York 41. St John, London 42. Astrid Y Gastón, Lima, Peru 43. Hibiscus, London 44. Maison Troisgros, Roanne, France 45. Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée, Paris 46. De Librije Zwolle, Netherlands 47. Restaurant de l'Hotel de Ville Crissier, Switzerland 48.Varvary, Moscow 49. Pujol, Mexico City 50. Asador Etxebarri, Atxonda, Spain
A Danish restaurant whose wacky menu has featured weird and wonderful ingredients from moss to bone marrow has been named the best in the world, while Heston Blumenthal's Berkshire restaurant slipped out of the top three. For the second year on-the-trot, chef Rene Redzepi's Noma in Copenhagen has topped the San Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurants listoften billed as the 'Oscars' of the restaurant world. Heston Blumenthal's The Fat Duck in Bray, Berkshire, famed for mustard ice cream and snail porridge, dropped two places to number five, with second and third positions being occupied by Spanish El Celler de Can Roca and
Rene Redzapi’s awesome restaurant Noma in Copenhagen
Mugaritz. The Ledbury in Notting Hill, West London, run by Australian Brett Graham, is the highest newcomer at number 34, and is second of only four entries from the UK, including London’s stylish Hibiscus and St John’s eateries. Notable in its absence, Catalonia’s El Bulli, which has ranked number one five times and came second to Noma last year, does not appear after chef Ferran Adria announced a twoyear closure. In the nine years since the list was started by the UK trade magazine Restaurant, a place on the 50 Best list has become one of the most sought-after honours for restaurateurs, though it has often been criticised for its focus on Europe and
North America. This year’s rankings were compiled from votes from 800 industry experts worldwide and include a wider range of nations than previous years with honours going to restaurants from Peru, Russia and Brazil, though there were only 6 completely new entries this year. William Drew, editor of Restaurant magazine, the organiser of the awards, said: "We heartily congratulate Rene Redzepi for the difficult task of maintaining his position as the number one restaurant on our list which underscores his commitment to redefining Nordic cuisine."
The cat that got the cream
milk he had just left at a customer’s door. “We’d had a number of customers phoning up to complain that their plastic containers were split and the milk had leaked away, and we couldn’t understand what was going on. “Then one morning I was walking back to my van after leaving a delivery at a customer’s door when I noticed something A mischievous furry out of the corner of my eye,” moggy is causing Martin said. chaos for a A small, black cat had crept over to Lancashire milkman doorstep, appeared to “hug” the twoby making off litre plastic container, then clawed it with his morning open, lapping up the contents as it sprayed out. deliveries. “I couldn’t believe my eyes. After all Martin Deacon, this time wondering, it was a bloody who has run cat all along. Deacon’s Dairy in “They say black cats are meant to Leyland for over 26 bring good luck, but this one’s cost years, was amazed me a fortune!” Martin said. when he caught a cat gulping down the A milkman’s worst nightmare Feast thinks it might be time to invest
One lump or two?
It’s enough to put you off your scotch eggs
A mother of four bit off a little more than she could chew and landed herself in court after she viciously munched off one of her boyfriend’s testicles. Maria Topp, 43, allegedly savaged Martin Douglas’ balls during a drunken row in the early hours of the morning. Scotch egg anyone?
Beefy record for a very Argie barbie
It’s a fact well known that the Argentines love their meat. They frequently claim to have the best quality cuts in the world. So it’s no surprise that it’s in the heart of the pampa that the Guiness World Record for the largest serving of barbecued beef was set. The feat was tackled by meat wholesalers Frigorífico Pico A huge Argentine grilling of 948 ribs beat the in celebration of its 30th birthday, and in a nod to the great Guiness World Record for barbecued beef Argentine Sunday tradition of having an ‘asado’ (barbeque) with friends and family. A whopping 20,000 guests from the city of General Pico were served up a feast like no other: it took nearly four hours to grill the 13,713 kilos of beef ribs (948 in total), which smashed the world record, weighing in at a mighty 9,132 kilos when cooked. Guiness World Record’s rep for Latin America, Ralph Hannah, was on hand to adjudicate, presenting certificates to beaming Frigorífico Pico owner Ernesto ‘Tito’ Lowenstein, along with Mayor Jorge Tebes and governor of La Pampa province, Oscar Jorge.
Pictures: Flickr/donkeyhotey, Sarah Ackerman, Flickr/hertakis, Flickr/jwanie, Flickr/virtualErn, Flickr/ellasportfolio, Flickr/jimillpicit
Harry Potter star Rupert Grint has become the latest celebrity to don a ‘milk tash’ as part of a dairy campaign to get people drinking the white stuff. Pictures of the 22-year-old actor, who plays Ron Weasley in the iconic wizarding films, will appear on billboards around Britain, complete with milky upper lip and the obligatory cheesey grin. The multi-million-pound ‘Make Mine Milk’ campaign, launched in April 2010 by chef Gordon Ramsay and singer Pixie Lott, already has an impressive line-up of celebrity sponsors, including: R&B idol Usher, Formula 1 driver Jenson Button, supermodel Elle Macpherson and athlete, Denise Lewis. Happy to add his name to the list, red-headed Rupert reckons it’s important we all get our daily dose of milk. “I come from a big family and my mum always made sure we had lots of milk to drink as kids. “It’s low in fat, refreshing and good for you, and really tasty too. “Nowadays I still have milk with cereal for breakfast and always try to pick up a milky cappuccino when I’m on set or on a photo shoot,” Rupert said. Harry Potter star Rupert will don a milky tash
magic for milk
They said what now?
“Frankly, i’m built like a shot-putter.”
Domestic goddess Nigella Lawson. And we love you just the way you are, Nigella.
Is that you, Huw?
“a plastic tray of wobbly multi-coloured stodge under a glowing piece of foil hot enough to melt a small village in greenland, heralded with that bouquet of dog-biscuit-on-toast wafting through the cabin as it is heated up”
Broadcaster Chris Evans on airline food. The man has a point….
“it isn’t kind to say that all jelly babies look like huw edwards. some look like william hague”
Stephen Fry We’re not sure where Stephen’s been buying his sweets from…..
“if i want chocolate, i have chocolate. if i want biscuits, i have biscuits. i love cake. i just love cake. we’ll only call the food police if i eat 20 packets”
Former Spice Girl, Geri Halliwell. We never thought we’d say this, but Geri Halliwell, we salute you!
We’d always wondered where Ron got his magic powers from.
Get all the latest food news at www.feastmagazine.co.uk/news
a gastro gallop round Gaudi town
Every month, we take you on a gastro-tour of some of the world’s most popular cities, steering you away from the tourist traps and revealing the hidden gems the locals would rather you didn’t know about. This month, Jayne Deacon gives us the lowdown on Barcelona.
hen you’ve bagged a cheap flight to sunnier climes and have just a few days to take in all the exotic sights and sounds, the last thing you want to do is spend hours wandering around looking for somewhere decent to eat. It’s easy to be tempted into a restaurant promising an ‘authentic’ foodie experience, only to be thoroughly ‘had’. Nowhere in Europe is this more likely to happen than in Barcelona, and particularly on Las Ramblas, the central, pedestrianized artery running from Plaça de Catalunya down to the port. That’s not to say that the city is full of would-be Dick Turpins, but it’s inevitable in any place which attracts the volume of tourism that Barcelona does that there will be restaurateurs out to make an easy euro. Lucky then that our reporter just so happens to have a bit of inside knowledge, having spent a year in, and falling in love with the charming capital of Catalonia. It really is a city than can truly captivateand not just through the iconic and historic architecture of Gaudi, or the guaranteed sunny days. Barcelona is a culinary adventure waiting to be discovered, and can be enjoyed on any budget. So fasten on those napkins and loosen those waist belts as we take you on a whistle-stop, gastro tour of Barcelona, giving you the very best of the tatalising treats on offer
The catalan experience
Catalans are fiercely proud of their culture and traditions, and will go to great lengths to protect them. The co-official languages of the region are both Spanish (Castilian) and Catalan, and by law, all signs in public places must be written in Catalan, which though recognisable, is surprisingly different to Spanish (a kind of mix of French, Italian and Spanish really). Food is one of the many ways in which Catalanismo manifests itself, and there are some delightful places where you get in the spirit andtuck right in. There are just too many fabulous tapas bars to mention here, but one of our reporter’s real favourites for a delicious tapas introduction is Mundial Bar, right in the heart of the Born area of Barcelona. This place looks like a hole-in-the-wall from the outside, but is actually quite the tardis when you venture in. In typical Catalan fashion, the décor leaves a lot to be desired- well-worn tiles adorn the walls, threadbare cloths dress the tables and the atmosphere and service can best be described as no-nonsense. But the food more than makes up for all of that. Make sure you try the calamares a la plancha (grilled squid) and the aubergine crisps with honey and goats cheese- both of which are, quite simply riquísimo (delicious). The patatas bravas (fried potatoes with spicy tomato sauce and garlic mayonnaise) are pretty hard to beat too. Obviously, part of the fun of tapas is being able to get stuck in and share a whole host of tasty bites. But if you’re the kind of person who prefers a sit-down, three-course affair (or are just plain reluctant to part with your grub), then there are of course some really outstanding restaurants to sample. Two pretty awesome examples can be found
One of the many quirky street artists on La Rambla.
on the very same street on the edge of the arty Gràcia district of the city. Can Punyetes is part of a small chain of restaurants serving hearty Catalan favourites and steaks the size of your head at a modest price. The speciality, botifarra (a type of Catalan sausage) is home-made in the Pyranees by owner Carlos’s father. If Can Punyetes represents the traditional, then just a few doors up, La Singular is the place to experience a more modern take on Catalan food, and has gained a worthy reputation for its market specials and varied menu.
did you know...?
The word ‘tapa’ is derived from the Spanish verb tapar, maning to cover. Legend says that the tapas tradition began when King Alfonso X of Castile recovered from an illness by drinking wine with small dishes between meals. After regaining his health, he ordered that taverns would not be allowed to serve wine to customers unless it was accompanied by a small snack or tapa. Meanwhile, the ‘The Joy of Cooking’ tells us that the original tapas were the slices of bread or meat which sherry drinkers in Andalusian taverns used to cover their glasses between sips. This was a practical measure meant to prevent fruit flies from hovering over the sweet sherry.
The quick bite
Fitting in all the monuments and sights that you want to see in a matter of days is not easy in Barcelona. And even when you get to them, it’s likely that
you’ll spend a good hour just queuing to get in to La Sagrada Familia or La Pedrera. So food-onthe-go can be the key to getting the most out of your days. If you’re strapped for time and need something quick, tasty and filling to keep you going, there’s a wealth of places you can nip to without having to resort to the McDonalds option (which is nowhere near as good as its British counterpart and is a sight more expensive too). Just off Las Ramblas, on Carrer dels Escudellers, you’ll find Yums. This is like a Spanish version of Eat or Pret a Manger, selling fresh sandwiches with tasty fillings, quiche, salads and home-made cakes and pastries. One of the guys who runs the place, Hernán, is the friendliest person you are ever likely to meet and will happily point out any special offers, which usually consist of a sandwich and soup or a cake for about €4. If you fancy something more substantial, then take a few steps up the same street to find Pasta Bar. This is a great little lunchtime venue because it is quick without skimping on quality or flavour. You pick the type of fresh pasta you want, then the sauce and meat and/or vegetables and ‘hey pesto’ - a speedy lunch for two with a drink for less than €15. Just a little further round the corner, in Plaça de George Orwell, named in homage to Orwell’s efforts fighting on the Republican side of the Civil War and affectionately named ‘Trippy’ by locals for the hippy characters you find idling around the square, sits Oviso. This cool, bohemian hangout has a relaxed vibe, amazing murals all over the walls and a fantastic little food menu, with mouth-watering salads big enough for two to share, savoury and sweet crêpes and the tastiest home-made houmous in the city.
As far as cocktails go, try Sugar bar. On Tuesdays, the cocktails are an impressive €3.50, and on Sundays, drinks for girls are half price, which means a refreshing mojito (which is by no means stingy on the rum) comes in at a cool €2.50. Possibly the best cocktails in Barcelona.
‘La Boqueria’- a gastro world of its own
The Mercat de Sant Josep de la Boqueria, referred to most simply as ‘La Boqueria’, is the city’s main food market, and an experience for all the senses. Dating back to the early 13th century, it is a temple of gastronomy, colour and life, and as they say in Barcelona, if you can’t find it in La Boqueria, you can’t find it anywhere. Rising over Las Ramblas, its modernist castiron entrance gives way to a gaping hall filled with pyramids of exotic fruits, cow heads and pungent cheeses, set next to live seafood twitching on beds of ice and rows of salty ham and artisan sausages. On entering, you have to fight your way through the hordes of visitors, from worldrenowned chefs, to tourists and elderly residents. The Saturday morning stampede can be particularly daunting, and you have to be careful not to have your ankles injured by bargain hunting avias (grandmothers) rushing through with their erratic shopping trolleys to grab the day’s bargains. La Boqueria is much more than just a place to buy fruit and veg. Dotted throughout are a number of bars where pulling up a stool and tucking into some of the freshest cuisine in Barcelona is a must. Sit yourself down at Pinotxo, and you’ll find no menu. Instead, this bustling bar’s chipper staff- all family, of course- will rattle off the daily specials, which have been enjoyed here since the 1940s. The market even has its very own cookery school, such is its reputation for being at the culinary heart of the city.
La Boqueria market is a food-lover’s paradise. The colours and aromas will blow your socks off.
The all important meat and dairy-free havens
If you’re a veggie or vegan, Spain is always a challenge, since those red-blooded latinos will plonk meat into just about any dish (and will happily allow you to discover the ham in your ‘green salad’ all by yourself). Thankfully, there are a few excellent quality venues in ‘Barna’ which will satisfy the needs of a meat free, dairy free diet. Gopal, a gorgeous little vegan deli parked back in the boho of Plaça de George Orwell, is one of them. Our reporter is something of a self-confessed meat fiend. But even she has to admit that the food here is damned good, and can more than fulfil a carnivore’s appetite. From home-made burgers and ‘chicken-style’ spicy croquettes to beautifully crafted cakes, the fayre here will please any palate. Meanwhile, Cat Bar over in the Born district of Barcelona is the essence of cool. And the intricate attention to detail here is absolutely phenomenal. Owned by a lovely British couple, but nonetheless offering a very Catalan flavour, it would be surprising if even the furniture weren’t organic. The food is 100% home-made and 100% vegan, the drinks are vegan, the beer and spirits are vegan, and it is soya milk they use in the coffee and milkshakes. Now there’s not many places that can claim to wave the vegan flag that proudly- and it’s absurdly good value for money too.
The mojitos at Sugar bar are a welcome refresher.
The foreign flavour
Not all visitors to Barcelona are looking to eat Catalan grub every day. Variety is the operative word in Barcelona, because there’s not much world cuisine that cannot be found here, though some things are done better than others. Santa Madonna is a chic Italian restaurant, priding itself on home-made bread and pasta, and authentic Italian cookery, something which owners Vincenzo Petrucci and Raquel Pla say is “badly misunderstood in Spain.” This might not be the cheapest of eateries, but the quality is worth paying for if you fancy an exquisite Italian feast. Moving out of Europe, and into East Asia, is one of our reporter’s favourite restaurants, purely for the excellent standard and value that it offers. Yutaka is unlike any other ‘all-you-can-eat’ buffet- not only is this Japanese eatery of outstanding class, but the décor is stylish and modern, the staff are attentive and friendly, and at no point do you feel like you are on a chaotic conveyor belt of people being hurried in and out.. The kaleidoscopic colours of the sushi prepared freshly in front of you are simply beautiful, and the smell of steak, seafood and crunchy vegetables being grilled to order make you salivate as you step through the door. At lunchtime the buffet, served from 1.304.30pm is a staggeringly cheap €9.50.
La Boqueria- Address: C/ La Rambla, 91 Telephone: (0034) 933 182 017 El Born- Address: Passeig del Born, 26 Telephone: (0034) 933 195 333 Caj Chai- Address: C/ Sant Domènec del Call, 12 Telephone: (0034) 933 019 592 Can Punyetes- Address: C/ Francisco Giner, 8-10 Telephone: (0034) 932 177 946 Cat Bar- Address: C/ Bòria, 17 Telephone: (0034) 697 694 102 Gopal- Address: C/Codols, 1 Telephone: (0034) 933 189 215 Mundial Bar– Address: Plaça Sant Agustí Vell, 1 Telephone: (0034) 933 199 056 Oviso- Address: C/Arai, 5 Telephone: (0034) 637 589 269 Pasta Bar- Address: C/Escudellers, 47 Santa Madonna- Address: C/Francisco Giner, 6 Telephone: (0034) 932 380 086 La Singular- Address: C/Francisco Giner, 50 Telephone: (0034) 932 375 098 Sugar- Address: C/Rauric, 21 Telephone: (0034) 931 291 223 Yums- Address: C/Escudellers, 12 Yutaka- Address: C/Rossello, 307 Telephone: (0034) 934 580 494 For more tips on where to go in Barcelona, visit the Feast website at: www.feastmagazine.co.uk/gastro
The thirst quencher
When you do just fancy a drink, there is no shortage of places to go. A lovely spot to grab a coffee or idle the hours away with a book and a glass of wine is El Born, a gorgeous Argentinian bar which was once a fishmongers, hence the open top display counters and sepia-toned photos of cod on the walls. If coffee isn’t your cup of tea, then Caj Chai is a leaf-drinker’s paradise. This quaint teahouse sells leaves and pots for you to takeaway, and boasts a drinks menu as long as the dictionary. , plus the aromas that greet you from the street are just sensational.
A home-made taste of Catalonia
Can’t get over to Barcelona just yet? No problemo. Let the sunshine come to you. Try some of these lovely Catalan recipes for yourself. Bon Profit! (Enjoy!)
as a main: canalons a la Barcelonesa (Lots of ingredients, but worth it)
Time: 1 hr 20 min Serves 6 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1 medium onion, chopped 1 garlic clove, crushed 175g minced pork 175g minced veal (or beef if you prefer) 150g chicken livers, finely chopped 75g Serrano ham, finely chopped 20g fresh white breadcrumbs 1 medium egg, lightly beaten 2 tbsp grated manchego or parmesan cheese 2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley ½ tsp nutmeg 12 sheets fresh egg lasagne Butter, for greasing Salt and freshly ground black pepper For the béchamel sauce I small onion, peeled and halved 6 cloves 900ml whole milk 4 bay leaves 1 tsp black peppercorns 60g butter 60g plain flour 4 tbsp double cream Nutmeg, to taste White pepper, to taste 3 tbsp grated manchego or parmesan cheese 1. For the sauce, stud the onion with cloves and put into a pan with the milk, bay leaves and peppercorns. Bring the milk to the boil and set aside for 20 min to infuse. 2. For the filling, heat the oil in a large frying pan, add the chopped onion and cook over a medium heat until the onions are soft and golden brown. 3. Add the garlic and cook for a further 2 min. Add the pork, veal and livers and cook for a further 5 min, breaking up the mince and veal with a wooden spoon. Add the ham and cook for a further 2 min. 4. Leave to simmer for 4 min, then remove from heat and allow to cool slightly, before stirring in the breadcumbs, with the egg, parsley, nutmeg and salt and pepper to taste. 5. Bring 4.5 litres water to the boil in a large saucepan with 8 tbsp salt and drop in the lasagne sheets one by one. Take the pan off the heat and allow them to soak for 5 min, then drain well and allow to cool. 6. Spoon some of the meat filling along one
Delicious cannelloni the Barcelona way.
short edge of each lasagne sheet and roll up. Lay side by side, seam side down, in a well-buttered 25x30cm shallow ovenproof dish. 7. Preheat the oven to 200°C. 8. To make the sauce, bring the milk back to the boil, stirring, then strain into a jug using a sieve. Melt the butter in a non-stick pan, add the flour and cook over a medium heat for 1 min. 9. Gradually beat in the milk and bring to the boil, stirring, then leave to simmer over a low heat for 5 min. 10. Remove from the heat and stir in the cream, nutmeg and salt and pepper to taste. 11. Pour the sauce evenly over the canalons and sprinkle with cheese, then bake in the oven for 25-30min until golden brown and bubbling. TIP: - One tablespoon of fresh herbs can be replaced by one teaspoon of dried herbs, but beware the flavour won’t be the same. - (V): To make it vegetarian, use e.g. Quorn chicken style pieces and soy mince. Per serving: 630kcals, 20g fat (5.2g saturated), 65g protein, 80.1g carbs (73g sugars), 4g salt
Crema Catalana: hard to resist but easy to polish off.
To FinisH: crema catalana (catalan créme Brûlée)
Time: 25 min Serves 4 300ml single cream 300ml whole milk Finely grated zest of ½ orange Finely grated zest of ½ large lemon 7.5cm piece of cinnamon stick, broken in half 4 large egg yolks 75g caster sugar, plus 4 tbsp 2 tbsp cornnflour 1. Bring the cream, milk, orange and lemon zest and the cinnamon stick halves to the boil in a non-stick pan. Set aside for the milk to become infused with the flavourings.
Pictures: Flickr/SpirosK, Camilla Hoel, Flickr/jilz, Flickr/avlyx
2. Put the egg yolks in a bowl, add the 75g sugar and beat until pale and creamy. Mix in the cornflour. 3. Bring the milk back to the boil and then strain into a jug using a sieve. Mix a few tablespoons into the egg mixture to loosen it slightly, then stir in the remainder. 4. Pour the mixture back into the pan and cook over a low heat for 4-5 min, stirring all the time, until the mixture has thickened and coats the back of the wooden spoon. Don’t let it boil. 5. Pour into 4 shallow dishes (terracotta if possible), measuring about 12cm across. Leave to cool, then chill for a few hours in the fridge. 6. Shortly before serving, sprinkle the surface of each custard with 1 tablespoon sugar and caramelize under a hot grill until golden brown. Per serving: 480kcals, 17.3g fat (4.3g saturated), 30g protein, 84.2g carbs (65g sugars), 1g salt
Make yourself a
The ability to mix up the perfect Screaming Orgasm, Singapore Sling or Tom & Jerry is no easy task. But follow our guide and you’ll soon be shaking your way to inventing and making your own delicious summer drinks. Stuart Blackburn gives you the lowdown.
s the wise Benjamin Franklin once said ‘there can’t be good living where there is not good drinking’, or loosely translated into 21st Century speak ‘a good party needs cocktails’. As summer draws closer, we’re here to give you the tools to turn your standard summer party into a swish cocktail soiree.
What’s your favourite weapon of choice?
Pictures: Flickr/vikingfjord_us, Flickr/urbanmixer, Josefin Wendel, Stuart Blackburn, Flickr/mountainhiker, Flickr/matteostaltari
Making a classic like a Cosmopolitan, Martini or Hanky-Panky is always fun. But being creative is the best thing about cocktails. Being a bit more daring when you pick the mixers and finishers to go with your favourite spirits can open up a whole new flavour experience. And there’s always the added giggle of giving your new creation a thoroughly crude name. But before you rush off to the spirit cabinet and start throwing all sorts together, there are some things to consider.
glass, but taking the time to pick the right one will really showcase the finished article. The long-stemmed cocktail glass has long been held as the ultimate cocktail icon, and always makes James Bond look super-suave. But there are other options which could better suit your creation. Helen says: “The first time I had to learn which cocktails go in which glasses I thought my head was going to explode… there are actual rules at work that you need to follow to stay professional.” If your creation is ice free then opt for a long-stemmed cocktail glass. Otherwise, go for a short tumbler. Taller tumblers, or ‘highball’ glasses can be used for drinks with extra garnish that fill the glass.
out spirits. If not, a standard shot glass can be used as a single shot measurement. A cocktail shaker would be handy too. But you can easily improvise if you don’t want to commit to a purchase. You could try an airtight Tupperware box, a flask or a jam jar.
ice ice baby
There is nothing worse than having a cocktail that’s dazzling to look at, but warm when you drink it. Stocking up on ice cubes is essential if you want your summer cocktail party to succeed. You can use normal ice cubes in most cocktails, but sometimes you can use something different like crushed ice. Crushed ice goes well with sweet cocktails like a Snowball or Manhattan. You can make your own by filling a clean kitchen towel with ice cubes and bashing them with a rolling pin. And crushed ice doesn’t just chill the drink, it looks good too.
The right tools
If you want to be a real pro, get yourself a ‘jigger’, the thing they use in bars to measure
Getting into the spirits
Cheshire-based bartender and Helen Roberts believes that mixing the perfect cocktail requires more than just the piss-up factor. “It can be tempting to throw all sorts into a bowl and call it a cocktail; I’ve made those sorts loads of times. But it always tastes rank. You think everyone’s main goal is to get as drunk as possible but you just end up with lots of halfdrunk cocktails.” Choosing the right combination of spirits to make up your cocktail can be tricky. Strong flavours are difficult to blend together. Imagine a double part Malibu and double part gin cocktail. The distinctive flavours would create a super-strong cocktail that will clash. Having said that, making your own cocktail is a subjective thing, so if a super-strong cocktail is what you want then go for it. Just don’t say we didn’t warn you.
a glass with class
The devil is in the detail when it comes to cocktails. You can serve them up in any old
Mixing up a Zombie
The nicest cocktails in the world can be ruined by poor presentation choices. There are important factors to consider like the colour, for instance, and the choice between an umbrella and a slice of fruit. The wrong presentation choices can make or break a cocktail. And there are rules to follow. “Drinking cocktails is all about the experience. People don’t order them just because they taste good; they order them because they look good too” Helen said. “You can be creative with it but there are certain things that you need to remember if you’re going to make your own. Or it could go wrong.” Learn just a few simple tricks and you’ll be whipping up cocktails like the professionals. Stocking up on fruit to garnish your cocktails is essential, but not too much. Remember, less is more. But expect to get through a lot of oranges, lemons, limes, cherries and strawberries. Mint leaves will be handy too. “There are certain rules for the garnish” Helen says. “Like putting mint leaves or a lemon slice in a cocktail with cream or milk is a big mistake. “…before I was trained in a bar I would try and make my own cocktails and it would just be a disaster. Any fruit I can find to fit in the glass would be shoved in; I never really understood why the fruit was there.” A citrus garnish usually blends well with a fruity cocktail, but be creative and experiment to see what garnishes work well with your choice of spirits and mixers. If it’s a creamy cocktail, try a chocolate sauce or pop a cherry on top. And garnish doesn’t just need to sit on top of the glass; it can be a part of the drink and help complement the cocktails flavours. The most famous cocktail that uses this technique is the Mojito. Mint leaves and lime segments are blended into the drink to help compliment the sweet ingredients. It’s risky to invent your own cocktails in this way, as it can be easy to get carried away. A cocktail in a glass full of crushed strawberries seems like a good idea but trust me, it isn’t. But if you’re feeling confident then go for it.
Feast’s top tips:
• Put your glasses in the refrigerator for about 10 minutes before you need them. Chilled glasses make cocktails tastier. • Bad measurements will ruin a cocktail. Too much of a spirit like vodka will be overpowering. Invest in a quality ‘jigger’ or something similar. Avoid free-pouring. • Use simple garnishes. Don’t just shove anything you can find into the glass. Less is more. • Shake your cocktail vertically above your shoulder. Never shake a fizzy cocktail. • Serve your cocktails using the stem or the base of the glass. Fingerprints are never a good look. • A strainer is a good investment. It can be used for get all the lumps and bumps out of a shaken cocktail for the perfected look. • Ideally, use 5-6 ice cubes per cocktail. But if you’re making more than one drink at any one time, use less ice in the shaker and add to the glass later. • Don’t add fruit to the shaker, only add it to the glass after shaking and straining. • Always try to use fresh juices. Squeezing Jiff lemon into your cocktail won’t give great results. • You can use any kind of spoon to mix up your cocktail in its glass. But investing in a ‘muddler’ will help to release the full flavours of the fruit and herbs. • Make sure your liquor cabinet is well stocked. The bigger the liquor collection, the more cocktails you can make. And don’t be afraid to use cheaper alternatives.
said, “only if you drop something it could be the £50 bottle of whisky”. Obviously we do not recommend training yourself in the art at flair bartending with a £50 bottle of whisky; a plastic bottle will do the job to start with. It’s all about confidence and flair. Spinning the bottles in the air, the glasses, garnish. It takes practice but adds a lot of magic to making your own cocktails. These simple tips will have you inventing your own little catalogue of drinks in no time, and doing it in the eccentric and dramatic style that cocktails demand.
Turn the page for our top cocktail recipes
The famous cocktail umbrella has been around for nearly 100 years. The reason for its continuing presence is simple; getting a little décor with your drink is oddly thrilling. And it doesn’t have to stop at an umbrella; you can use almost anything to pimp up your drink. Or at least anything that comes in miniature size. But if you feel like doing something a bit more outrageous, why not try a flaming cocktail. They can be majorly impressive and make a cool little party trick. Simply light the surface of the drink and leave it to dazzle your friends. It’s perfectly safe to do and will work with any drink that contains a small amount of high-proof flammable alcohol.
We all marvel at the bartenders who can send bottles spinning in the air, set fire to liquids and perform magic-like tricks. It’s what the professionals call ‘flair bartending’. The fact is that tricks like these are megaimpressive. If you’re brave enough to try it you’ll be the centre of attention at every party. “It’s pretty much just like juggling” Helen
Making the classics
40ml vodka citron 15ml Cointreau 15ml fresh lime juice 30ml Cranberry juice 1. Add all the ingredients into a cocktail shaker (or a airtight Tupperware box) with ice ice and shake well. 2. Strain the cocktail into a long-stemmed cocktail glass. 3. Garnish with a fresh piece of lime. Per serving: 180kcals, 1g fat (0.8g saturated), 1g protein, 20.5g carbs (17.6g sugars), 1.1g salt
40ml white rum 30ml fresh lime juice 3 springs of mint 5 raspberries 2 teaspoons of sugar Soda water 1. Place the mint and raspberries in a highball glass with the sugar and lime juice. 2. Add ice and rum, then top up with soda. 3. Garnish with springs of mint leaves. Per serving: 245kcals, 2g fat (1.3g saturated), 1.8g protein, 21.3g carbs (11.6g sugars), 1.2g salt
30ml white rum 30ml cream of coconut 90ml pineapple juice 1 slice of fresh pineapple 1. Put the rum, coconut cream and pineapple juice in a cocktail shaker with crushed ice. Shake for 10 seconds. 2. Pour into a long-stemmed cocktail glass. 3. Garnish with pineapple. Per serving: 230kcals, 2.1g fat (1.5g saturated), 1.4g protein, 24.9g carbs (22.6g sugars), 0.7g salt
Long island iced tea
15ml vodka 15ml tequila 15ml white rum 15ml triple sec 15ml gin 25ml lemon juice 30ml syrup Splash of Coco-Cola 1. Put the vodka, tequila, white rum, triple sec and gin into a cocktail shaker with some ice and shake for about 10 seconds. 2. Pour into your chosen cocktail glass (a highball glass would better suit this one). 3. Add the syrup. 4. Top up with the Coco-Cola. 5. Garnish with a lemon slice. Per serving: 210kcals, 1.9g fat (1g saturated), 1.2g protein, 23.7g carbs (17.8g sugars), 0.9g salt
50ml vodka 20ml coffee liquor 1. Pour ingredients into a short tumbler. 2. Stir gently and enjoy. Per serving: 140kcals, 0.9g fat (0.3g saturated), 1.1g protein, 17.5g carbs (20.5g sugars), 1.2g salt A creamy creation
Sex on the Beach
sex on the beach
40ml vodka 20ml peach schnapps 40ml orange juice 40ml cranberry juice 1. Simply place all ingredients in a highball glass with ice. 2. Garnish with an orange slice.
Pictures: Josefin Wendel, Stuart Blackburn, Flickr/brians101, Flickr/frankieroberto
Introducing a Feast original:
20ml rum 30ml gin 50ml milk Chocolate sauce 1 strawberry
Per serving: 170kcals, 2g fat (1.4g saturated), 1.9g protein, 26.9g carbs (22.1g sugars), 0.7g salt
50ml whisky 20ml sweet red vermouth (or any red wine) Dash Angostura bitter 1 Cherry 1. Add whisky, sweet red vermouth and dash of Angostura bitter into a cocktail shaker with ice. 2. Strain into a chilled long-stemmed cocktail glass. 3. Garnish with cherry. Per serving: 220kcals, 2.1g fat (1.8g saturated), 1.4g protein, 23.1g carbs (24.5g sugars), 0.9g salt
1. Add the rum, gin and milk into a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake for about 10 seconds. 2. Line a cocktail glass with chocolate sauce. 3. Strain into the highball glass. 4. Garnish with the strawberry. Per serving: 250kcals, 2.2g fat (1.3g saturated), 1.4g protein, 25.9g carbs (24.6g sugars), 1g salt
Read the extended article and watch video interviews at: www.feastmagazine.co.uk/cocktails
Got yourself in a bit of a stew?
Don’t suffer in silence: Mr Feast has all the answers to your culinary pickles, big and small. He’s quite lovely really - and one mean chef.
sTiCKy riCe Problems
Dear Mr Feast, Whenever I cook rice, it never turns out right. It always ends up sticky and gloopy. Any suggestions? Thanks! Alice, Bedford
s ea F
Dear Matt, A any lessofofall,man. Indoesn’twould First crying make you a fact, I
common problem with rice, but it’s really easy to fix. The sticky consistency is caused by the starch, so it’s important to give rice a good rinse in cold water before you start. You need to use about double the water for the volume of rice you’re using. Pop the rice and water in a pan with a little pinch of salt on a medium heat and bring it to the boil. Stir it ONCE to stop it sticking to the bottom, then turn down the heat to simmering point, and pop the lid on until the rice has absorbed all the water. Don’t be tempted to stir it until the water has all soaked up. That should do the trick!
A Dear Alice, my lovely! This is a Never fear,
recommend a good sob regularly. As far as the kitchen goes, when you cut into an onion, its cells rupture and release enzymes that produce a gas called propanethial sulfoxide, which is what makes your eyes tear up. Keep onions chilled before you cut them, as this slows down the release of enzymes. You can also try popping a bit of vinegar on the chopping board which stops the chemical reaction in the onion.
Mr Feast can solve all of your cooking woes. Ooh la la!
PoaChed eggs are a FloP
always find mine separate and sort of flop in the water. PLEASE HELP! Natalie, Northwich
QDear MrtheFeast, to poaching eggs? I What’s secret
Q Dear MraFeast,to chopping onions which Is there trick
Crying oVer onions
doesn’t leave my eyes streaming and send me running to the box of Kleenex? (See pic!) I shudder every time I see a recipe involving onions because they always leave me a whimpering mess, which my girlfriend finds very amusing. Matt, Newcastle
egg on toast for breakfast - you sound like my kind of girl. For the perfect poached eggs, bring a pan of water to the boil (the water needs to be about 15cm deep). Add two tablespoons of vinegar, then lower the heat to a slow simmer. Carefully crack an egg into a teacup or ladle, then pour into the water as gently as is humanly possible. The egg white will then coagulate in the water. This mostly takes about 2-3 minutes. Take the egg out at this point with a slotted spoon and enjoy your breakfast.
A Dear Natalie, nicer than a poached There’s nothing
everyone is man enough to take them on. Firstly, when whipping up the batter, makes sure the whites are billowing peaks when you lift up the whisk. Week-old eggs will give you the most volume, therefore a lighter soufflé. When you pour the mixture in the dishes (only 3/4 full), run your thumb around the edge to create a groove which will help it to rise up with a high cap. Finally, do NOT open the oven door during cooking, as this is a sure-fire way to make your beauties flop. Serve as soon as they are cooked. Good luck.
A Dear Alex, on the soufflés: not Good effort
Q Dear Mr Feast, a fruit pie, the crust Whenever I bake
Lucy, A Dearwe all know, there’s nothing As
FruiT Pie wiTh a soggy boTTom
at the bottom always ends up soggy. Can you help? Lucy, Manchester
Don’t waste any more man tears on onions
sorT ouT my souFFlÉs
and I’m trying to do something ‘posh’ as they all reckon I can’t cook. I did a trial run on some smoked-haddock and cheese soufflés and they lived up to their reputation and didn’t rise. I don’t want them to be flop of the day. Any ideas? Alex, Bristol
Mr Feast, Q Dearhaving some friends round for a meal I’m
Pictures: Jimena Cadiz, Christopher B Bills
if you’ve got a foodie query that you want answering, e-mail it to mr Feast at:
worse than a soggy bottom. But never you fear, my sweet, we’ll get you sorted in no time. Firstly, it’s a great idea to bake your pastry ‘blind’ before adding a filling. This will make your base much more robust. Also, always remember to let hot fillings cool before adding them, as the moisture from the steam will make your pastry wet. Finally, always remember to add a few small slits on the top of the pie to let steam escape during cooking. Don’t worry, Lucy, perfect pies are on their way now!
Ever been stuck with a bowl of soggy couscous mess? Forget it. These tips and recipes turn couscous into the fluffy delicacy it really is.
Broccoli couscous with dried fruit and almonds
as a main: Broccoli couscous with dried fruit and almonds (v)
Time: 30 min (plus 1h soaking) Serves 2-3 ½ vegetable stock cube 120 g dried couscous splash of olive oil 2 small red peppers 2 tbsp dry sherry 2 tbsp raisins or sultanas, chopped 5 dried apricots, chopped ½ small head of broccoli 2 tbsp almond flakes 1. Place the chopped dried fruits in a bowl and pour over the sherry. Leave for at least an hour to allow the fruit to soak up the sherry. 2. Switch the oven to 200°C/390°F/Gas 5, and roast the peppers for 10min. Deseed and chop into small pieces. 3. Dissolve the stock cube in 200ml of boiling water. Place the dried couscous in a bowl and pour the stock over the couscous. Cover and leave for 10min, fluffing the couscous with a fork a few times. 4. In the meantime, boil or steam the broccoli, then chop it into small pieces. 5. Toast the almond flakes until browned. (Be careful not to burn them, they turn very bitter when burnt.) 6. Pour the dried fruit and any remaining sherry over the couscous, add a splash of olive oil, stir in the broccoli and peppers. Garnish with the toasted almonds and serve. Per serving: 390kcals, 15.3g fat (5.2g saturated), 42.1g protein, 80.1g carbs (73g sugars), 3.9g salt
5 tsp fresh coriander, chopped 5 tsp fresh mint leaves, chopped 5 tsp fresh flat leaf parsley, chopped 5tsp chopped chives, chopped olive oil CHICKEN 2 tbsps lime juice 4 garlic cloves, peeled 1 piece of fresh ginger (about 2 inches) 2 jalapeno chillies, chopped 1 tsp salt 1½ tsp garam masala spice mix 250 ml plain yoghurt 8 boneless, skinless chicken thighs (about 700 g) OR 6 chicken breasts, cut into bitesize pieces CHICKEN 1. Make a marinade by pureeing the lime juice, garlic cloves, ginger, chillies, salt and garam masala in a blender or food processor. Add the yoghurt. 2. Put the marinade in a bowl and toss the chicken pieces with the marinade. Cover and refrigerate for at least two hours or overnight. 3. Place the chicken on skewers and cook on either a barbeque or in the oven. (If you’re not using skewers, then fry the chicken pieces in a regular pan.) COUSCOUS 1. Put the couscous in a bowl and add 400 ml of boiling water. Cover and set aside for 10 min. 2. Sauté the onion and garlic in a little olive oil over low heat until soft. 3. Add the coriander seeds and prepared couscous. Cook, tossing gently, until combined. 4. Then add tomatoes, lemon juice and herbs. Cook, continuing to toss, for 2 min until the couscous has warmed through. 5. Transfer to a bowl and serve at once. TIP: - One tablespoon of fresh herbs can be replaced by one teaspoon of dried herbs, but beware the flavour won’t be the same. - (V): Make this dish vegetarian by using e.g. Quorn chicken style pieces. Leave time to defrost the pieces (before they can soak up the marinade). - If using wooden skewers, don’t forget to leave them to soak for at least 30 min before using them. Per serving: 430kcals, 17g fat (3.2g saturated), 42.1g protein, 75.2g carbs (70.1g sugars), 3.1g salt
Couscous originally stems from North Africa, going back as far as the 13th century. The grains are made of semolina which is sprinkled with water and rolled into small pellets. The pellets are then dried for storage. The instant couscous that is sold in most UK supermarkets has been pre-steamed to make it quicker to cook. One serving is about 170g (cooked) or 60g (uncooked, instant).
HoW To cook
Traditional couscous requires hours of soaking, but the standard supermarket variety is quick-cook instant couscous. It’s easy to cook: just pour over some boiling water, usually 1½ times the amount of dried couscous. But sometimes the cooking instructions on the packaging just don’t cut it. If you’re serving the couscous with a sauce, you might want to try out a more elaborate (and tasty) way of cooking couscous. In Libya, the dried couscous is first tossed with salt, pepper and olive oil. Once it’s all mixed, pour boiling water to about a third (rather too little than too much), cover and leave for a few minutes until the couscous has soaked up the moisture. Make sure to cook the accompanying sauce in a pot with high edges. Place the halfcooked couscous in a sieve and put it into the pan to create two tiers. Cover and leave to simmer for 10-15 min. The couscous will soak up the flavour of the sauce, and come out perfectly steam-cooked.
on THe side: Tandoori chicken with herb couscous
Time: 30 min (plus 2h marinade) Equipment: blender, skewers Serves 4 COUSCOUS 250 g dried quick-cook couscous 1 large onion, peeled and chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 2 tsp coriander seeds, crushed 4 tomatoes, chopped 1 lemon, juiced (or 2-3 tbsp lemon juice)
Tandoori chicken with herb couscous feastmagazine.co.uk
In your kitchen, get set, cook!
Fancy yourself a good chef? Get creative in the kitchen with our new chef challenge. We list you the ingredients, and you cook up the feast. Aprons at the ready!
Inspired by Ready Steady Cook and the likes, Feast has started a new reader challenge to find Britain’s most creative amateur chefs. Every month we list five star ingredients and it’s up to you to turn them into a delicious meal for three. Upload your recipe(s) to our website for other users to cook and rate throughout the month. Our test kitchen cooks all the top-rated dishes and selects three winners. They’re featured in the following month’s issue, and the winners get some cracking prizes. First ever winner, Tarek Youssri (see below right), says: “It’s great to be the winner, I can’t believe it really. I don’t really think of myself as a great chef, so it’s definitely a confidence boost to find out that other users like my recipes too. “I only started cooking properly a couple of years ago, but now it’s become a real interest. It’s not just necessity.” Tarek turned June’s bacon, fresh spinach, feta cheese and onion into a hearty mediterraneanflavoured soup. Feast Editor, Josefin Wendel, says: “We’re always excited to see what our readers cook up. We try to use basic ingredients which you can get from any supermarket, to prove that a recipe really doesn’t have to be complicated to be tasty. “Tarek’s soup impressed us all. The ingredients were simple but the result was excellent. The flavours mix very well. It’s hard to believe Tarek is only a beginner chef.”
The eight recipe rules:
1. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. The more creative, the better. Total cooking time must be less than one hour. Recipe may be starter or main course. Meal must serve a party of three. Only ten ingredients may be used in total, not including basic seasoning. Ingredients from the cupboard have to cost under £3. One star ingredient may be left out. Submit your recipes at feastmagazine.co.uk for other readers to rate and comment on. Full terms and conditions on p.23
June Winner: Tarek’s pasta fagioli soup
Tarek youssri, London, won the June challenge with his Italian-inspired soup. He writes: 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tbsp dried parsley 1 tsp garlic powder ½ tsp dried basil ½ tsp ground black pepper 1½ tsp salt 1. Fry the onion and bacon until bacon is crispy. 2. In a large pot, combine chopped tomatoes, beans, spinach, the stock cube, garlic, parsley, basil, garlic powder, salt and pepper. Add the chopped bacon. 3. Pour 750ml boiling water into the pot, cover and bring to the boil. Let simmer for 20 min (covered). 4. Add the pasta and cook uncovered until pasta is tender. 5. Sprinkle with the feta cheese and serve with crusty bread on the side. TIP: - (V): Make this soup vegetarian by using e.g. soy bacon or seitan pieces. Per serving: 410kcals, 20g fat (5.2g saturated), 65g protein, 80.1g carbs (73g sugars), 4g salt
June’s star ingredients:
3 chicken breast fillets 6 slices of bacon 300g fresh spinach 100g feta cheese 1 onion
From the cupboard:
mayonnaise chopped tomatoes tinned beans tinned mushrooms pasta chicken stock cube garlic dried parsley dried basil salt pepper
“One of my best mates is from Italy and taught me a similar recipe. I altered it quite a bit for this challenge, but we both agree it tastes even better this way. It’s a good basic recipe which you can change according to needs and leftovers in the fridge. A warming soup to make on a rainy summer day!”
Time: 50 min Serves 3 6 slices of bacon, chopped 2 cans chopped tomatoes 1 can beans (e.g. cannellini or kidney beans) 250g small pasta shapes 300g fresh spinach, chopped 100g feta cheese, crumbled 1 onion, chopped 1 chicken stock cube
runner up: catriona’s warm spinach salad
catriona stephenson, Chelmsford, was the June runner up with her warm spinach salad. She writes:
“I invented this salad as a lazy but healthy midweek dinner. It’s super quick to make so great when you’re tired after a long day at the office. Hope you like it!”
Time: 20 min Serves 3 3 skinless, boneless chicken breasts, cut into strips 6 slices of bacon, chopped 250g fresh spinach, torn 90ml orange juice 90ml red wine vinegar 70g tinned mushrooms, sliced 1 red onion, sliced 50g walnuts, chopped ½tsp ginger 1. Arrange spinach, mushrooms and onion on three salad plates. 2. Saute chicken, bacon and walnuts in a little olive oil until chicken is cooked through (no longer pink). 3. In a medium pan, combine the ginger, orange juice and vinegar until smooth. Stir in the chicken and walnuts. 4. Bring to the boil. Cook and stir for approximately 2 min, or until thickened and bubbly. 5. Pour over salad and serve immediately. TIP: - (V): Make this salad vegetarian by using e.g. Quorn or seitan strips. - If you don’t have any red wine vinegar, try cider vinegar. Alternatively make up the 90ml with ¾ white wine vinegar and ¼ balsamic vinegar. Per serving: 380kcals, 18.5g fat (2.9g saturated), 36.2g protein, 58.6g carbs (41.3g sugars), 2.8g salt
pasta Fagioli soup
Warm spinach salad
THird pLace: patricia’s bacon-wrapped stuffed chicken breasts
patricia knudsen, St Andrews, came in third this month with her bacon-wrapped stuffed chicken breasts. She writes:
3. In a medium-sized bowl, mix mayonnaise, spinach, feta cheese and garlic until well-blended. Set aside. 4. Carefully make a large cut through the chicken breasts, making sure not to cut all the way through. Spoon the spinach mixture into the cut. 5. Wrap each breast with a piece of bacon. Secure with a toothpick. 6. Place in a shallow baking dish, cover and bake for 45min or until chicken is no longer pink in the centre and the juices run clear. 7. Serve with e.g. rice or roasted potatoes, and a green salad. TIP: - This recipe works well with frozen spinach too. Just defrost and drain before mixing it with the other ingredients (step 3). - (V): To make it vegetarian, use quorn fillets and omit the bacon. Per serving: 480kcals, 14.5g fat (1.9g saturated), 55g protein, 80.1g carbs (73g sugars), 3.9g salt
Pictures: Tom Magliery, Josefin Wendel, Flickr/NellieMcS, Flickr/cobalt123, Flickr/ozfoodie
“I’ve been using this stuffing in chicken breasts for a while now, but never thought to add bacon before. Thanks for helping me be a bit more adventurous!”
Time: 55 min Equipment: toothpicks Serves 3 3 skinless, boneless chicken breasts 6 slices of bacon 100g mayonnaise 100g crumbled feta cheese 300g fresh spinach 2 cloves of garlic, chopped 1. Preheat oven to 190°C. 2. Wilt the spinach by placing it in a colander and pouring boiling water over it. Drain well.
Bacon-wrapped stuffed chicken breasts
Turn the page for details of next month’s competition
reader competition • reader competition • reader competition • reader competition • reader competition
Cook up a storm, share the recipe and become a Feast chef winner
Every issue the overall winner gets a brand new KitchenAid, worth £399.
NEXT MONTH’S STAR INGREDIENTS
The runner up wins a £100 gift voucher for iwantoneofthose.com, for all their home gadget needs (and wants!). 100g chorizo
400g mixed mushrooms
Pictures: Rebecca Pavlovic, Clay Irving, Flickr/hiddencage, Luis Tamayo, Flickr/colemama
Third place scores you a £50 gift voucher for Lazybone, the UK’s online kitchen shop.
200g green beans
TERMS AND CONDITIONS 1. This competition is open to Feast magazine readers who are UK residents aged 18 or over, excluding employees (or families of employees) of the University of Sheffield Department of Journalism Studies, or anyone linked to the competition. 2. Website entry closes midday Monday 15 June 2011 and entries received after the closing date of the promotion will not be considered. 3. No responsibility is taken for entries lost or delayed. 4. The winner(s) will be selected from the ten user top rated recipes at the time of the entry deadline, and the judges’ decision is final. No correspondence will be entered into. 5. The winner will be notified in writing within seven days of the closing date. 6. The prize is for a red KitchenAid mixer. There will be two winners of the Iwantoneofthose gift vouchers. 7. In the event of developments outside its control, the promoter reserves the right to offer an alternative prize of equal or greater value. 8. The winners may be required to participate in future publicity. 9. The promoter’s decision is final and binding in all matters and no correspondence will be entered into. Promoter: Feast Magazine, 18-22 Regent Street, Sheffield S1 3NJ.
4 spring onions Good luck!
Does this food still look yummy when you know it was taken from a bin?
FEAST T H SPOTLIG
Fancy a free lunch? Freeganism Uncovered
One man’s trash is a freegan’s three course meal. At at time when we’re throwing out a third of all food in the UK, skipping has become a way of life and protest. Feast’s Josefin Wendel goes bin diving to see if freeganism really is the future.
or decades freegans have been scouring the supermarket skips of American cities. It started in New York in the eighties and as food waste grew - so did freeganism. Living for free might sound impossible, but freegans are keeping the dream alive. By living in squats and consuming only food and goods that others have rejected, they are - in turn rejecting consumerism.
The movement has its roots in anticapitalism, and to some extent anarchism. But is it really possible to reject capitalist consumption? What do you need money for, if you’re not buying anything? If you consume less, you can work less and spend more time actually living. Or at least that’s the basic idea. While the government is talking of austerity and trying to reduce waste through campaigns and politics, we are in reality only wasting more.
Food waste has doubled since the early eighties, and is still on the increase. Why then, is bin diving not being encouraged more? Earlier this year a woman in Great Barrow, Essex, found herself handcuffed and accused of stealing after taking food £200 from a bin outside her local Tesco store. Freeganism helps reduce waste, and for some bin raiders it’s obviously the difference between
‘you can’t just go down to some big sainsbury’s where you live and expect dinner to be served’
Lucky dip: you never know what you’ll find when you dive into a supermarket bin.
‘around 15 per cent of us never eat food that has gone past its sell by date’
eating and going hungry. But outside of London, it is hard to find any ‘true’ freegans in the UK. With bins being locked away, both physically and legally, freeganism isn’t as easy to live by as one might think. Larger supermarkets build fences and use their CCTV, while smaller ones put locks on street bins. Some stores even break packaging or pour bleach over the discarded food to destroy it. Simultaneously, legal persecution of bin divers is scaring away the semi-converted. If you’re not that into the freegan ideology, risking a criminal record for a few loaves of expired bread might not sound like a logical idea. For me, however, it was also a journalistic endeavour. I’ve arranged to meet up with two freegan friends for a night of bin skipping. Ahead of our supposed bin raid together, I’m told that they’re indeed very happy for me to come along, but if police turns up “we’ll leave you behind”. Cheers, guys. The constant threat of legal actions means freeganism isn’t for everybody. Legally, it’s still theft. In England and Wales, theft is defined as “dishonestly appropriating property belonging to another with the intention of permanently depriving the other of it.” The food in supermarket bins still belong to the supermarket - whether it’s on a store shelf or at the bottom of an outdoor bin. I tried to prepare for my first raid, feeling almost like the criminal the law makes freegans out to be. Should I wear black like a burglar? Dress up in a stripey jumper and mask? And how would I dodge the CCTV cameras? A casual stroll around the supermarkets in my residential area had turned up nothing but locked away bins. I clearly had a lot to learn. James later tells me: “You’ve got to know where to go. You just learn while doing it or your friends tell you when they find good ones. You can’t just go down to some big Sainsbury’s where you live and expect dinner to be served.” Between 30 and 40 per cent of all food in the UK is thrown away. A Tesco spokesperson said: “We seek to minimise waste in all our stores and where possible will seek to reuse and recycle.” James is sceptical. He says: “We see loads of food just getting thrown out even though it could blatantly be eaten. Sometimes security staff are cool with us getting it but sometimes you can tell the supermarket is doing everything to stop us. We don’t want to get staff in trouble either.” Although most people agree that food waste is bad and perhaps even immoral, society still hasn’t found a way of efficiently dealing with it. For all the government’s campaigns to minimise waste, it still hasn’t created a legal framework within which freeganism could work on a larger scale. There are strict limitations to which expired food can be given away. The scare of getting sued is also constantly there. For now, I’m stuck by a smelly Veolia bin somewhere in north Sheffield. It’s midnight and the rain is drizzling down, but we’re on the hunt. Though not for meat: to many, freeganism and veganism go hand in hand. Animal products such as dairy, meat and eggs are also among the most harshly legislated. Legally, supermarkets have to destroy them once past their use by date, although I’m told that often doesn’t happen. By 1.30am I’m tired, wet and would rather go into the 24hr supermarket and buy a sandwich than raid around the bins outside for one. During our hunt we’ve totalled one loaf of bread that looks like it’s been run over by a lorry. In fact, it might have been. Alex is most apologetic. He tells me about when they went skipping a few days before, to a local supermarket: “We found more than 30 packets of Penguin sweets in some bins, in total over 200 penguins, and just went out handing them out to people.” They also found a kilogram of potatoes and some burger buns which they made chip sandwiches with. I’m jealous. He lists
Pictures: Natalie HG, Josefin Wendel
UK: d waste in ther in UK Foo yea
every - £7.7 billion total , dult per month - £13.30 per a on average t of all food - 30-40 per cen is discarded ght in the UK bou Brits never eats - 15 per cent of past its sell that has gone food by date food is thrown he majority of -T umers, not out by us cons or producers supermarkets
‘The price of food in the uK is a key issue: it’s just too cheap so people can afford to waste it’
Pictures: Josefin Wendel
more finds that day: a cabbage, two dozen energy drink shots and six boxes of Jaffa cakes. Now I’m just plain hungry. Alex, himself a vegan, says: “We also saw, though didn’t take, like 20 or more boxes of eggs, a crate of milk and tonnes of meat.” The term ‘freegan’ is a play on words, derived from the word ‘vegan’. Many freegans refuse to eat animal products, which is sometimes for the better health-wise as these products usually go off first. Best before dates obviously serve a clear purpose, but it seems we’ve become obsessed with that little digital print. Around 15 per cent of us never eat food that has gone past its sell by date, according to a recent study. On average, an adult throws away food worth £13.30 every month. Each year £7.7 billion worth of out-of-date food gets thrown out. The introduction of reduced sections, where products close to their expiry date are sold at discounted prices, has gone some way to reducing waste. In the UK the reduced section is standard in almost every supermarket, but in the US - where freeganism started - it’s still uncommon. The price of food is a key issue: it’s just too cheap. In the UK, we’ve never spent less of our disposable income on food. Today we only spend about 16 per cent on food, so it’s no problem when you forget about that pint
of milk or have to throw out those last few mouldy slices of bread. Although freegans are doing their bit, it seems society and legislation are the ones lagging behind. As I bid farewell to Alex and James, it’s also my farewell to freeganism. We’ll always have that night we spent together, but I’m just not a freegan at heart. Being a freegan is more than just the odd skip hunt or bin raid. It’s a lifestyle. Freeganism certainly isn’t for the organised planners among us. Even Alex and James admit to sometimes buying food. ”It’s just not always practical to have to go skipping,” James says. But if we’re frugal and savour the food we buy, it’s a step in the right direction. If we combine it with political action, even more so. Food waste is a global problem, and needs to be solved legally and commercially. Alex and James are not their real names. For legal reasons, they do not wish to be named.
Read the extended interviews and voice your opinion at: www.feastmagazine.co.uk/freegan
Ever thought that carbohydrates make you fat? Or that celery has negative calories? We all did at one point. So join us as we dispel these and other
myTh: if i drop my food on the floor, it’s fine to eat as long as i don’t break the five-second-rule. FaCT: One of the biggest myths going
used to try and justify unhygienic behaviour. Food that makes contact with a germ-filled surface will contract germs no matter how long you leave it for.
myTh:red wine gets its colour from dark coloured grapes and white wine gets its colour from light grapes. FaCT: Wines get their colouring when the
grape skins are left to ferment in the liquid. Red wine gets its deep colour when the skins are left to ferment for a long period of time. Champagne can be made from red grapes, but as the skins do not ferment in the liquid, the colour remains light.
myTh:if i want to lose weight, pasta is the perfect food to cut from my diet as it is really fattening. FaCT: A pasta dish can be a healthy and
balanced meal when cooked right. It’s the sauces that make it fattening, not the pasta. Try opting for a low fat sauce if you’re trying to lose weight. Or forget the sauce and just add seasoning and vegetables. Peas and baby carrots work well with this dish.
myTh:i’m allergic to caffeine, so i’ll just stick to decaf coffee. That’s 100% caffeine free. FaCT: Actually, international standards
require decaf beverages to be decaffeinated to just 97%. If you’re allergic, sadly you should just avoid coffee altogether.
myTh:red meats like beef are unhealthy as they are packed full of saturated fats. FaCT: Red meat is actually packed with
good nutrients like iron, zinc and B vitamins. Cutting it out completely is not a good idea.
myTh:when i eat celery, i’m actually losing weight because it takes up more calories eating it than are contained within it. FaCT: It’s a nice idea that you can simply
chew on celery and lose weight. Sadly scientists have proven that this is not so.
Pictures: Flickr/foodiesathome, Flickr/carreralee, Flickr/jessicamelling, Flickr/overthebluemoon
myTh:when i eat pasta, i’m indulging in a dish that originates from italy. FaCT: People from Italy are likely to
disagree, but pasta in fact originates from a number of different places all over the world. The earliest known recorded pasta comes from China. They might eat a lot of it in Italy but they didn’t necessarily invent the stuff.
myTh:if i opt for red wine instead of white, my heart will be reaping lots of health benefits. FaCT: Well the good news is that some
experts still believe this is true. The even better news is that other experts now consider white wine and even beer to have the same positive effects. So don’t just stick to the red next time.
We are a nation of chocolate lovers. But cocoa farms around the world are exploiting their workers in squalid conditions for little pay. Stuart Blackburn meets the man who’s made it his mission to turn cocoa farming ethical.
‘When I first moved to Grenada I intended to live a simple life in my bamboo house’
Cocoa is the perfect place for The Grenada Chocolate Company to be selling its products. I feel as though I’ve stepped into a children’s story book. Colourful truffles are piled high and nostalgic sweets line the shelves. In the back room, retro toys and ancient ornaments clutter the shelves. Mott sits casually among the bric-a-brac. Wearing baggy combat trousers and a plain t-shirt, he looks as if he’s about to go camping.
ott Green is a man with a passion for chocolate. But not just any chocolate. When he set up The Grenada Chocolate Company he wanted the organic cocoa beans the company used to come from farmers who were treated well and paid a fair price. And that’s just what he achieved. Mott, 44, was visiting the UK to promote his successful brand of organic and fair trade chocolate when I met up with him in a chocolate shop, Cocoa, in the middle of leafy Sheffield.
He runs a successful company, but he is no shrewd businessman. His passion comes from a genuine desire to make a difference for the people who produce his cocoa. “This is not just a business for me because I live a very simple life in Grenada and I don’t need to be financially successful. Any money we make is shared equally between me and the people who work with me on the farm” he said. Growing up in New York City, Mott had a privileged upbringing. His future in engineering seemed hopeful as he secured a place at a top
university. But despite his promising future, his desire to do something more could not be repressed. “When I first moved to Grenada I intended to simply live in the woods and live a simple life in my bamboo house, but during my first 10 years the dream to source the local cocoa beans and make chocolate in a fair way grew into something more and I eventually just did it. “I was always desperate to escape the system and do something different. I definitely did that. I always knew I wanted to live a more helpful existence and this is how I’ve done it.” When Mott first set out on his mission, he knew that cocoa farmers around the world
‘i always knew i wanted to live a more helpful existence and this is how i’ve done it’
Pictures: Flickr/jarlenaustvik, Flickr/cacaobug
were being exploited by traders and paid a low price for their crop. Both adults and children worked incredibly hard under squalid conditions. “That is part of why this whole business is so important to me. It’s the only way I could do it, we are a team and we work together so we reap the benefits together also. “Being an activist is not just about hoping other people change the way they do things. If you can do it yourself then why not make a difference that way”.
Mott Green (centre) with Cocoa owners Kate Shepherd (left) and Anne White (right).
Having bought a small property in Grenada, Mott built connections with local Cocoa farmers to help turn their Cocoa into a profit making venture. Making a difference in cocoa farming is not a random choice for Mott, who has a genuine love for cocoa beans. “One of my thrills being in Grenada was helping local farmers with the cocoa beans and even when I wasn’t in Grenada I would carry around a sack of beans and make this concoction that I loved to drink all the time”. That concoction is one that we would call a hot chocolate. But we’d most likely pick it up from a supermarket, rather than using fresh cocoa beans. But it wasn’t just for liquids that the beans could be used for and Mott quickly learnt how to make solid chocolate. It was from this skill that he began to build his business. It seems like a script for a Hollywood film, the story of a man giving everything up to live a simple life in the Caribbean forest and starting a successful business. But luckily he wasn’t on his own. “In 1999 a friend of mine from the United States visited and offered to help us. “He offered to become my tinkering partner and learn how to make chocolate. He put up
“After we became certified organic the ball really started rolling and we became quite popular in Grenada. We kept building other bigger machines and eventually became one of the most popular chocolate brands on the island.” As the company was growing, the business spread to other farms across Grenada. As a result, more people now benefit from Mott’s business ethics. As the founder of the company, it would be easy for him to make a massive amount of money. But he insists that even now, that doesn’t interest him. “As long as I’m in Grenada I can live alright, I live in the factory and don’t need a lot of expenses. Sharing the profits is an alternative way to run a business”.
“I love little shops like this and it’s a real big help to our cause. We’re hoping to expand even further though as I’d love to do some more work in the UK” he said.
‘i’d really like someone else to see what i’ve done and make it happen somewhere else’
While chocolate sales are generally high, ethical chocolate still holds only a small percentage of the market. As a result, cocoa workers are still enduring very long hours in horrid conditions for little return. “That’s the part where more activism needs to be done. You know, me coming over here to try and get it on the shelves is a good way to do that. “In the end it comes down to what people choose to purchase, but I don’t think that people are really aware what goes on in some parts of the world on cocoa farms.” The Grenada Chocolate Company is still a small company on a stage full of big corporate brands. Expansion is the only way the principles of Grenada Chocolate will become more mainstream. “Our project is the first of its kind. “I’d really like someone else to see what I’ve done and make it happen somewhere else in the world”. Eventually, the incredible journey of Mott’s life is likely to inspire many more similar projects in other cocoa producing parts of the globe. But in the meantime, Mott’s dream has paid off and the people of Grenada are living with the benefits.
‘we eventually became one of the most popular chocolate brands on the island.’
enough money for the research stage and to get us into business”. Doug Browne was in a similar position as Mott, giving up his life in America for a simpler existence in the Caribbean. The pair spent wo years building machinery that could be used in a small and simple renovated property in Grenada which was used as a factory. The pair still work together to this day.
Cocoa, the ‘Enchanted Chocolate Wonderland’ in Sheffield.
And those profits will soar as the brand expands worldwide. As well as being available online to the UK and USA, shops like Cocoa are snapping at the opportunity to have Organic Grenada Chocolate on their shelves.
Read the extended article and watch video interviews at: www.feastmagazine.co.uk/cocoa
Got a sweet tooth? Try out these cocoa based recipes.
chocolate fudge brownie sundae (v)
Time: 1-2 hours Serves: 6-8 BROWNIE 350 g dark chocolate 250 g unsalted butter 3 free-range eggs 250 g dark sugar 75 g chestnut flour, sifted 25 g cocoa powder 1 tsp baking powder Pinch of salt 110 g fudge, chopped BANANA ICE CREAM 4 bananas peeled and cut into chucks. Frozen in a freezer bag ¼ tsp vanilla essence 3-4 tbsp caster sugar 200ml buttermilk CARAMEL SAUCE 110 g brown sugar 110 g butter 175 ml double cream 1. Preheat the oven to 170°C and grease a 23cm cake tin. 2. Melt the chocolate and butter together in a saucepan over a low heat. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside to cool slightly. 3. Whisk the eggs until thick and then gradually beat in the sugar until glossy. 4. Beat in the melted chocolate mixture and then gently fold in the chestnut flour, cocoa and baking powder and salt. 5. Fold in the fudge pieces then pour the mixture into the cake tin. 6. Bake in the preheated oven for 30-40 minutes. 7. Remove the brownie from the oven and set aside for about 20 minutes. Cut into approximately 16 pieces. 8. Remove frozen bananas from the freezer and leave to defrost for a few minutes. Blend the frozen bananas, vanilla, sugar and half of the buttermilk in a food processor until smooth. While the motor is running, add the remaining buttermilk and continue to blend until smooth and creamy. 9. For the caramel sauce, place the sugar and butter into a small saucepan and cook until melted and well combined. Pour in the double cream and simmer gently for 3-5 minutes, or until the mixture thickens slightly. 10. Place the brownies onto serving plates, top with a scoop of banana ice cream and pour over the sauce. Per serving: 450kcals, 15g fat (11g saturated), 3g protein, 13g carbs (10g sugars), 0.8g salt
e It Mak
Bailey’s and chocolate cheesecake
ricotta pudding (v)
Time: 2 hours Serves: 6 1 kg ricotta 140 g caster sugar 70 g candied fruit, finely chopped 40 g flaked almonds 50 g plain chocolate shavings 1 tbsp cocoa powder, plus extra for dusting 600 g panettone 175 ml Vin Santo or other sweet dessert wine 1. Mix together half of the ricotta and half of the sugar in a bowl until smooth and creamy. Fold in half of the candied fruit, half of the almonds and half of the chocolate chips until well combined. 2. Mix the remaining ricotta, sugar and the cocoa powder in a separate bowl until smooth and creamy. Stir in the remaining candied fruit, flaked almonds and chocolate chips and set aside. 3. Line a 15cm diameter pudding basin or a deep bowl with cling film, leaving a lot of excess around the edge. 4. Slice two round discs from the panettone and slice the remaining panettone lengthways into 2.5cm slices. 5. Line the bowl with the slices of panettone, and, using a pastry brush, brush three-quarters of the Vin Santo onto the bread. Spoon in the chocolate and ricotta mixture, then press one of the panettone discs on top. Drizzle over a little Vin Santo. 6. Spoon in the remaining ricotta mixture, press the remaining panettone disc on top and then drizzle with the remaining Vin Santo. 7. Cover the top with the remaining cling film, place a weight on top (a plate with a bag of sugar on it, for example), and chill in the fridge for at least six hours. 8. To serve, remove the pudding from the fridge, remove the weight and unpeel the cling film from the top of the pudding. Invert the pudding onto a plate, carefully remove the bowl and peel off the cling film. Dust with cocoa powder. Per serving: 350kcals, 16.4g fat (9.2g saturated), 10g protein, 25g carbs (19g sugars), 3g salt
Bailey’s and chocolate cheesecake (v)
Time: 2 hours Makes: 1 cheesecake
Pictures: Stuart Blackburn, Flickr/carolann.quart, Flickr/freakgirl, Flickr/simongoldenberg
100 g butter 250 g crushed digestive biscuit 600 g Philadelphia cream cheese 25 ml Baileys 100 ml icing sugar 100 ml double cream, whipped Cocoa powder (to dust) 1. Melt the butter in a pan and add the crushed digestive biscuits. Mix well until the biscuits have absorbed all the butter. 2. Remove from the heat and press into the bottom of a lined 18cm tin. 3. Lightly whip the cream cheese and then beat in the Baileys and icing sugar. Fold in the whipped cream and grated chocolate. When smooth, spoon evenly onto the biscuits. 4. Refrigerate and allow setting for a further two hours. Once set, remove and decorate with whipped cream and cocoa powder. Per serving: 345kcals, 16.5g fat (8.9g saturated), 8g protein, 35g carbs (16g sugars), 2g salt One of Mott’s creations
Make the bean dream come true
The new kid on the block: Bean Drinking is making a big impression in Leyland, Lancashire.
If your goal is to open your own food business, then right at the tail end of a recession is probably not the ideal time to realise your ambitions. But one Lancashire couple is proving it can be done. Jayne Deacon dropped in for a coffee to find out how they did it.
t’s 9.30am on a Saturday morning, and the town of Leyland in Lancashire is just waking up, or alternatively, enjoying a cheeky weekend lie-in and dreaming about how to spend the day. But Tom and Zoe Booth were up bright and early and have already been at work for over two hours. And that’s after getting their two-year old daughter, Eris, up, ready and dropped round at Nannie’s for the day. Both, however, look surprisingly fresh, and are highly amused by my sleepy eyes and bed head as I manage a croaky ‘thank-you’ whilst being handed a hot americano and a comforting toasted fruit teacake laden with butter. “Heavy night last night was it? This will sort you out,” says Tom, winking and suppressing a
The cafe has its own quirky branded cups.
toothy grin. The couple opened up their new ‘baby’ almost a year ago now, and Bean Drinking Espresso and Ice-Cream Bar is already proving to be a hit in the town, judging by the number of customers who are already sat enjoying a brew and reading the Saturday supplements. Tom and Zoe’s story begins 11 years ago when they worked together at Deep Pan Pizza in nearby Preston and were both students at the University of Central Lancashire. Tom, now 28, studied management and hospitality, and Zoe, 29, fashion and brand management. The couple have been together ever since, and have spent most of their courtship itching to start up their own business. “All the time we were going out, we always said that we would like to work for ourselves and use mine and Tom’s backgrounds, but we could never agree on what to do,” says Zoe. Then, four years ago, Tom began working at a well-known coffee bar, and the pair began to see an idea forming. “Tom became absolutely passionate about coffee and we realised that was what we wanted to do- great coffee,” says Zoe. In the meantime however, there was the small business of getting married, buying a house and having their daughter, all of which happened within the same year. But when all of that was done with, Tom and Zoe wasted no time in setting about making their dream a reality. By November 2009, they had registered their business as a limited company and were looking for premises, which proved to be a challenge.
“Initially we were looking to be in Preston, and we found a nice vacant unit. But unfortunately, it was right behind a large Caffé Nero store,” says Zoe. “We realised that Preston already had so many coffee shops, so we looked to Leyland, which was actually more convenient for us anyway, and there are hardly any coffee shops here. “There’s a few places, like the market café, but the focus is generally on food, whereas we wanted to provide really great coffee.” The couple found a great location, a former off-licence on the main high street, and completed the refit in a few months, officially opening on July 19, 2010, though they didn’t miss a good business opportunity beforehand. The week before was the celebration of the Leyland Vehicle Festival, where people of the town line the main streets to watch a procession of vintage automobiles in homage to Leyland’s rich motor industry heritage. “We couldn’t let the day pass without opening, so we set up a simple counter, with filter coffee and a fridge full of ice-cream,” says Tom. It proved to be a savvy move, and perhaps an omen of good things to come, as the couple completely sold out of all of their stock. The focus, as was Tom and Zoe’s dream, is definitely on the coffee. Bean Drinking uses barista quality beans from the award-winning Atkinson’s of Lancaster which hit the cup within just five days of being roasted, Tom believes makes the business individual. “When you look at every big generic coffee chain, they all have their own roasters because they are so big. But Starbucks, for example,
Tom and Zoe’s top tips for starting a food business:
more research you can do, the better. There will always be something you don’t expect, so be as prepared as possible.
2. Have a business partner you can trust. We work well as a team because we are open and honest with one another. You can’t work with someone you don’t trust. 3. Get all the help you can get- The Business Venture group were fantastic in giving us advice and getting us on some free courses to learn how to run a business properly. The Rosebud Scheme also offers loans and support for new business, plus help developing a business plan. -Business Venture Group: www. orvia.co.uk -The Rosebud Scheme: www. lancashire.gov.uk/corporate/lcdl 4. Location, location, location: Make sure you get it right. 5. Look at who your competitors are, and if there is a gap in the market for what you’re selling in the place you plump for. 6. Try to be different- do what your competitors aren’t doing, or do what they are doing better. 7. Work
roast their beans in Amsterdam, and that is the only roaster for the whole of Europe. They roast in huge quantities and it is sent all over and sat in warehouses for months. “They say that coffee can last for ages, and technically it can, but the longer you leave it, the bigger the compromise you make on flavour.” And of course, the best quality coffee deserves the best quality treatment, which according to Tom, is why they splashed out on a San Marino coffee machine, the machine used in the World Barista Championships, which incidentally, Tom took part in this year. The couple also proudly champion local produce. The cakes and biscuits are made by a local baker called Christine and the milk and cream from a Leyland dairy, whose supplies come directly from ‘happy cows’ in the Trough of Boland. Then there’s the ice-cream. Anyone from the Chorley and Leyland area need only hear the name ‘Frederick’s’ to be left salivating uncontrollably, which is something of an institution in the area.
The lemon cupcakes are impossible to resist
Handmade soaps make a sweet gift
hard. Running your own business isn’t easy. When you’re your own boss, work doesn’t stay at work, it comes home with you too, so you have to be prepared to put the hours in.
Delivered fresh from the Frederick’s parlour in Heath Charnock, and with tempting flavours from ‘Dime Bar’, ‘Orange Tiger’ and ‘Cinder Toffee’, to the classic vanilla and chocolate, this little delicacy has proved to be by far the café’s biggest seller. “Before we got our delivery on Thursday, we had just one scoop of strawberries and cream left. We had totally run out of everything else,” says Zoe. They even sell unusual gifts and accessories which would rarely be found in the average Leyland shop: from quirky Cravendale teapots
The hard work is beginning to pay off for Tom and Zoe Booth at their new venture, Bean Drinking.
Pictures: Jayne Deacon
and flavoured coffee beans, to handmade soaps from Manchester (made by an old school friend of Tom’s) in zesty mojito and decadent champagne and roses fragrances. Like all good success stories, the devil is in the detail, and that, according to Zoe, is the reason why they have tried to focus on the little things too, making it accessible for more than just a young crowd. The toilets are specially adapted so that mothers can comfortably breastfeed new-borns and prams and wheelchairs can fit without a squeeze, and even the cups were specially designed with the customer in mind. “The handles are big enough so you can get your hand in, even if you are an elderly person with arthritis, and the saucers have an offset centre so that you can get your spoon and biscuit on comfortably without them falling off. “It’s the little things that make the difference,” says Zoe. It would seem that, for less than a year in business, Bean Drinking is doing remarkably well, though Zoe is quick to remind me that it wasn’t so easy in the beginning, and it’s taken a lot of hard graft and late nights to get things to where they are now. “When it started getting into the autumn and winter months and it was cold, people just weren’t venturing out, and even now, we are finding that people still don’t seem to know about us. “We’ve spent a lot of money on advertising and we’ve done a huge leaflet campaign and things are getting better and better. When it’s sunny, it’s great because people do venture out, and we have ice-creams, milkshakes and ice-cold juices that get people coming in, and we’re finding that even on the duller days, we’ve got plenty of customers,” says Zoe. As for the future, Tom and Zoe are looking at more ways to branch out and make their business grow. They’ve already started up an open-mic night once a month with local band ‘The Yard Dogs’, who kindly play for free, and their ‘Leyland Loyalty Card Scheme’ is also proving a hit with the regulars, giving the tenth coffee free for every nine purchased. They also plan an ambitious coffee club, where people can pay for subscriptions and have fresh coffee beans delivered to their door every month. And with summer on the way, the couple also plan to launch a picnic-takeaway service. Customers will be able to ring in their orders in the morning and pick them up at lunchtime for a feast in the park, a popular move with the crowds of people who have already started flocking to nearby Worden Park . It seems that Zoe and Tom are very optimistic about what lies ahead, now that their project is well on the road to success. “We’re happy and things are going really well, which gives us a really strong foundation to build up to bigger things,” says Tom.
Putting the eir bellies FIRE in th
Feast is looking for heroes, and not just any heroes. Every month we search the length and breadth of the UK to find the unsung champions of British food. Our June quest leads us to stars at Washington Hall fire training centre.
And as our reporter passes through the scenes of fiery magic, she has to remind herself that it’s not the hordes of brave hunks tackling blazes she’s here to see (though having a good old perve is a decent perk of the job). We at Feast have heard there’s something a lot more dishy to be found in the kitchen, and it’s there we pay homage to the unacknowledged stars of a very different field. Liz, Wendy, John, Antonio, Doreen, Carole and Jackie are the hard-working super-seven responsible for feeding the 160 hungry firefighters the centre welcomes daily with some very fit looking eats. And if the meal schedule is anything to go by, it’s a wonder the trainees have time to learn how to put out a candle, since they don’t seem to stop eating. The kitchen team’s day kicks off bright and early by making the breakfast at 7.30am. This can mean anything from toast, yoghurt and fruit to a Full English, a nice hearty way to start the day. “They need a good breakfast inside ‘em. How can you expect ‘em to lug all that heavy gear around if they’ve not got a bit’o sustenence in ‘em,” says Liz Burscough, a lovely lady who’s worked at the centre for over 30 years and can butter toast faster than a fireman can slide down a pole. Breakfast is followed at 10am with toast and a ‘dirty brew’- not quite as startling as it sounds. The firemen often get quite sooty when they’re on practical training exercises, so aren’t allowed into the canteen. Instead, they get served their tea through the kitchen window in their mucky overalls, hence ‘dirty brew’. No sooner are the fire-fighters starting to get a wee bit peckish than a two-course lunch is being served up at 12pm, which is followed by yet another tea break at 3pm and finally ‘tea’ (yes that’s tea, definitely not dinner round these parts) at 5pm. Thick and luxurious mushroom soup is a big favourite to start, and as for the mains, the fire-fighters can find themselves tucking into anything from home-made chicken burgers and minted lamb casserole, to Spanish omelette with roasted vegetables. In fact, the Spanish omelette is more authentic than most, as it’s a Spaniard who whips it up- the lovely Antonio Cappros from Almeria, Southern Spain, to be precise. Sadly, he cannot be persuaded (despite our best efforts) to share his grandmother’s recipe. “It’s a more than my life’s worth. She promised she’d haunt me if I let it slip,” says Antonio, chortling in his thick, Andalusian accent. s you wander through the gates at Washington Hall in Euxton, Lancashire, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d landed on a film set. Huge puffs of smoke can be seen billowing into the sky as crowds of people attempt to quench the thirst of glowing, ferocious flames with jets of foam and water. But these exhilarating scenes are just part and parcel of the daily routine here. Washington Hall is one of the world’s leading fire-fighting training centres.
‘how can you expect ‘em to lug all that heavy gear around if they’ve not got a bit’o sustenence in ‘em’
The variety on offer is extremely impressive, with contemporary and international dishes a fixed feature alongside traditional English fayre. Suffice to say, with all those hungry mouths and so many meal times, it’s quite a day’s
work for our kitchen team. And if that wasn’t enough, they are expected to serve up the whole lot on a shoestring. A Full English comes in at a bargain 95p, and both lunch and tea, which include two homemade courses, unlimited bread and butter (essential for mopping up gravy and any other juices) and a drink, cost just £1.80. So how on earth do they manage it? With great difficulty, according to Wendy Gaskell, who has worked at Washington Hall for 25 years, and is in charge of balancing the books and ordering supplies. Her knowledge of food is impeccable- and you need only ask once before she is reeling off a list of wholesale prices for just about every ingredient imaginable. by-one, plates are piled high with fish, chunky chips and buttered mushy peas. “You can’t beat a good chippy tea,” says one station officer, dowsing his dish with vinegar.
‘The food here is excellent and seems to be getting better all the time’
The grub here always seems to go down well, and for most of the visitors to Washington Hall, it’s the highlight of their stay. “The food is excellent, and seems to be getting better all the time. My wife tries to send me to work with packed lunches, but I always refuse when I know I’m coming here because the grub’s so good,” says Steve Doherty, watch manager at a station in Fleetwood. Well, it’s the end of a very long day, and our reporter is absolutely knackered just from watching all the grafting the Washington Hall staff have done. They may not spend their days putting out fires or saving cats from trees; but Liz, Wendy, John, Antonio, Doreen, Carole and Jackie do a tremendous job keeping a lot of hungry tummies happy. And we at Feast think they are very worthy of the title ‘food heroes’. Congratulations, gang, we think you’re greator as they say in Lancashire, ‘reet gradely folk’.
Turn the page for our food heroes’ best recipes
‘Food prices have just rocketed in the last year and i know some meals aren’t coming in on budget’
ABM Catering, the company which employs the kitchen staff at Washington Hall, has a four year contract with the Fire Service, which is fixed for its duration. This means that the catering budget is frozen for four years, even when costs go up. Keeping to such a rigid budget is becoming an increasingly difficult task for Wendy, with food prices and fuel constantly on the rise, so figuring out how to feed hordes of hungry firemen is becoming quite a chore. “Food prices have just rocketed in the last year, and I know that some meals aren’t coming in on budget, so I often have to play around with other meals to balance things out. “It’s really hard work,” says Wendy. More frustrating still is having such little say in where she sources the ingredients for the kitchen, which is also stipulated by ABM Catering bosses. “I would love to be able to go down to Chorley market and buy all the fruit and vegetables myself because it’s such good quality there, and much cheaper, but I can’t. “It really winds me up,” she says.
The nosh gets the seal of approval from Feast reporter, Jayne Deacon.
That said, the ingredients going into all the dishes are, nevertheless, locally producedcertainly from around the Lancashire area anyway. Oliver Kay’s of Bolton bring the fruit and veg, the eggs are from Stanley’s in Standish, the meat is brought by Mike, their friendly butcher from Denton and the bread comes just up the A49 at Coppull Today is Friday, which to most Lancashire folk translates as ‘chippy day’, so the team are serving up freshly battered cod and steaming steak puddings or ‘Babby’s yead’ as they are known around these parts. The grins of delight are hard to miss as one-
Read the extended article and watch video interviews at: www.feastmagazine.co.uk/fire
7.30am Breakfast: Full English 10am Dirty brew 12pm Lunch: home-made mushroom soup, spicy chicken burgers with sweet chilli sauce, steamed cherry pudding 3pm tea break 5pm ‘tea’: home-made tomato and red pepper soup, minted lamb casserole with roast potatoes and seasonal veg, lemon tart
Some satisfied grins from watch manager Steve Doherty (left) and fire safety officer Steve Snape (right) after a tasty Washington Hall ‘chippy tea’.
Wendy Gaskell (far left), Antonio Cappros (centre) and Carole Maguire (right) are the definition of service with a smile.
Pictures: Flickr/freefotouk, Flickr/macombpaynes, Jayne Deacon
be your own
The lovely Washington Hall team have very kindly given Feast some of their favourite recipes to share with our lovely readers. Have a go at one yourself.
1. Place the crushed ice in a tall, thin glass. In a cocktail shaker, mix the Vodka, Bailey’s and Kahlua, and pour over the ice. 2. Pour the cream over, and add a splash of Coca-cola. Sounds awful, but tastes delicious. Per serving: 180kcals, 2g fat (1.2g saturated), 1.3g protein, 24.5g carbs (23.6g sugars), 1.4g salt
on THe side: The famous Wagamama salad dressing
Time: 10 min Makes about 120ml Wendy says: “This is more than just a salad dressing- it’s fab poured over cold noodles and crunchy veg to make a summery noodle salad, and is also great for dipping crudités in.”
The Wagamama is great over cold
noodles and veg.
To drink: soho Bulldog
Time: 5 min Serves: 1 Wendy says: “If you don’t have a cocktail shaker, an old jam jar is a great alternative!” 25ml vodka 25ml Bailey’s 25ml Kahlua 25ml Double cream Splash of Coca-Cola Handful of crushed ice
2 tsp chopped onion 2.5cm piece of fresh ginger root, peeled 1 garlic clove, peeled 1 ½ tbsp rice vinegar 1 heaped tsp tomato puree 3 tsp brown sugar 100ml olive oil 3 tbsp light soy sauce 1. Blend all the above ingredients in a food processor or with a hand blender, or failing that, chop the dry ingredients finely, and mix with the rest of the ingredients in a large mixing bowl. 2. Will keep covered in the fridge for up to about two weeks.
Per serving: 450kcals, 19.2g fat (4.1g saturated), 41.2g protein, 67.8g carbs (59.2g sugars), 3.4g salt
For more Washington Hall recipes and to watch videos of the dishes being made, go to the website:
To FinisH: carole’s low-fat lemon cheese tart
Time: 2 hours 20 min (including setting time) Serves: 6 Carole says: “This recipe is so good and it doesn’t break the calorie bank either.” 1 x 20cm pre-baked sweet pastry case Zest of 2 lemons Juice of 1 lemon 1 packet sugar-free lemon jelly (Lime jelly also works well) 125g light cream cheese 125g low-fat greek yoghurt 1. Place the zest and juice of the lemon into a measuring jug. 2. Add the jelly (separated into cubes) and make up to 300ml with boiling water, stirring well. 3. Beat the cream cheese and yoghurt together in a bowl, then add the liquid jelly and mix until smooth. 4. Pour the mixture into the pastry case and chill for 1-2 hours in the fridge, or until set. Per serving: 450kcals, 19.2g fat (4.1g saturated), 41.2g protein, 67.8g carbs (59.2g sugars), 3.4g salt
Carole’s lemon cheese tart is a slice of heaven with none of the guilt.
To niBBLe WiTH a cup oF Tea: doreen’s ‘Tommies’
Time: 1 hour 10 min Gives 12 biscuits Doreen says: “This recipe was my grandma’s taken from World War Two.” 70g caster sugar 120g butter 80g ground almonds or hazelnuts 150g plain flour 30g honey 230g plain dark chocolate 1. Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/Gas 4. 2. Cream the butter and sugar together in a large mixing bowl, then stir in the flour and ground nuts. 3. When the mixture becomes a paste, wrap in cling film and leave in the fridge for 30 min to set. 4. Remove from fridge, and on a floured surface, roll out the dough and cut into rounds using a 1 inch cookie cutter. 5. Place on a greaseproof paper lined baking tray and bake for 12 minutes. 6. Remove from oven, and when cool, spread half the biscuits with honey, and sandwich together with the remaining biscuits. 7. Warm the chocolate through until melted and carefully spoon and spread over the biscuitsandwiches, then leave to cool until set. Per serving: 450kcals, 19.2g fat (4.1g saturated), 41.2g protein, 67.8g carbs (59.2g sugars), 3.4g salt
To sTarT: salmorejo
Time: 30 min Serves 6 Antonio says: “This is a typical Andalusian soup dish, similar to gazpacho, but even tastier.” 2kg ripe tomatoes 1 clove garlic 1 large baguette, stale Salt, to taste 250ml extra virgin olive oil 2 tbsp sherry vinegar ½ tsp cumin 2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and chopped 50g Serrano ham, diced 1. Skin the tomatoes and remove their cores. Using a blender, liquefy the tomatoes and garlic, adding the vinegar, salt and cumin. 2. Soak the bread in water until tender, then wring it out. Add half of the bread and blend until smooth. Continue adding the bread and the olive oil bit-by-bit to the mixture and blend until the mixture has a smooth, creamy consistency. 3. Chill the soup and then serve in a shallow bowl, garnished with ham and egg and accompanied by fresh bread.
Per serving: 450kcals, 19.2g fat (4.1g saturated), 41.2g protein, 67.8g carbs (59.2g sugars), 3.4g salt
Antonio’s Salmorejo makes a refreshing summer soup alternative.
To niBBLe WiTH a cup oF Tea: rocky road
Pictures: Jayne Deacon, Flickr/massdistraction, Flickr/debraandadrian, Flickr/ilustir, Flickr/nataliej
Time: 2 hours 20min (including setting time) Gives 12 chunky pieces Liz says: “This recipe is a big favourite with my nieces and nephews when they come to visit. It’s quick and easy and you can throw in whatever you fancy, adapting the recipe to suit tastes.” 400g Cadbury’s Dairy Milk 400g Cadbury’s Wholenut 2 tbsp Rice krispies 4 shortbread finger biscuits, roughly chopped 2 Mars bars, roughly chopped 50g Marshmallows, roughly chopped 30g Sultanas 6 dried apricots, chopped 1 small packet of Malteasers 1. Line a baking tin with baking parchment/ greaseproof paper. 2. Scatter in the Rice Krispies, shortbread, Mars bars, marshmallows, sultanas, apricots and Malteasers. 3. In a bowl over a pan of simmering water, break up the Dairy Milk and Wholenut and heat gently
Liz’s rocky road recipe always goes down a treat with family and friends .
until melted. Pour over the dry ingredients. 4. Cover with cling film and place in the fridge to set (1-2 hours). Cut into blocks and enjoy. Per serving: 210kcals, 21g fat (4.1g saturated), 12.3g protein, 21.2g carbs (20.8g sugars), 1.2g salt
Pie he T tion olu ev R
breakfast pie, then you get a full English breakfast pie. Your bacon, beans, mushrooms, sausages, tomato and black pudding all packed into one crispy pastry. Your Sunday roast is a winner too; chicken, carrots, peas, broccoli, gravy and a lovely Yorkshire pudding. All of which is expertly squeezed into a thick pastry wall. The 21st Century is shaping up to be a time of reinvention for the traditional pie. And it’s coming from many different sources. Pies have long been sold in shops, vans, at events and in pubs. But in a period of innovative pie making, even more businesses are springing up with one common ethos. Original pies. A branch of Pieminister may have recently opened up in a town near you. If it hasn’t, it may do soon. The Pieminister brand is the brainchild of a British duo with a very big passion for original pies. Pop into one of their shops and you can treat yourself to one of their originals. Maybe
The humble pie is undergoing a massive transformation. Whether on the supermarket shelves, in the pubs or swanky restaurants, pies are going all creative. Stuart Blackburn gives you the lowdown.
illing pastries with delicious meats and vegetables is not a revolutionary idea. We’ve been eating pies for centuries. The possibilities of what a pie can be are endless. But creative pie makers have been in decline. Supermarkets have always stocked the classics; Chicken & Mushroom, Cheese & Onion, Steak & Ale. We’ve seen these pies on our supermarket shelves for years. But that could all change as we welcome to the mainstream, Higgidy Pies. Higgidy made its breakthrough in 2006 when their pies were selected by Sainsbury to be sold in their stores. Since then, business has boomed and their pies can be seen in supermarkets across the country. Fancy a change from your Steak & Onion? Why not try Higgidy’s Spinach, Feta and Toasted Pine Nut or a Free Range Pork Sausage and Mash? Pies created by and only available from Higgidy. Camilla Stephens, the creator of Higgidy pies, takes an idyllic approach to her work. “We are a little company of pie-makers making the finest handmade pies & quiches from our little Higgidy kitchen. “Each and every Higgidy pie is lovingly made using simple kitchen methods and generous helpings of honest ingredients.” And Higgidy’s ethos seems to be catching as people in Sheffield may have noticed. Local pub Nottingham House has a food menu that Higgidy founders would be proud of. You can still expect the pub classics, a Sunday roast and a full English breakfast. Just don’t be surprised if you order them and they arrive, quite literally, within a pie. This is no gimmick. If you order a full English
a ‘Moo & Blue Pie’ with British beef steak, red wine gravy and long Clawson stilton. A creation you’re not likely to see in your local supermarket. Or a ‘Heidi Pie’ filled with goat’s cheese, sweet potato, spinach, red onion and roasted garlic. This one’s gone on to win no less than three industry awards for its originality and great taste. You might get them from your local pub, a supermarket or a shop dedicated to them. Wherever, pies are making a comeback in a new and exciting way. This got us thinking about the endless possibilities of pies. Essentially you can wrap anything up in pastry and call it one. So where does it end? Think of your favourite meal and imagine it being the contents of a pie. A lamb bhuna curry maybe. Or spaghetti bolognaise. Sound good? Follow our guide to pack your favourite food into a pie.
Higgidy pie anyone?
PASTRY Time: 30 min (plus 30 min setting) Serves 4 335 ml flour 1 ½ tbsps sugar 115 g butter dash of salt 3 tbsps of cold water
Inspired to invent and make your own pie? Follow these steps. You can replace the bolognaise with anything you like.
spaghetti bolognaise pie
1. Sift the flour, sugar and salt together. 2. Cut the butter up into tiny chunks and place in a bowl with the flour, sugar and salt. Course crumbles will form. 3. Add the cold water and quickly form it into dough. 4. Put the dough into the refrigerator for at least half-an-hour. 5. Flour a rolling pin and kitchen surface to roll out the dough to about nine inches. 6. Once the pastry is rolled out, leave it in the refrigerator until you are ready to start filling. SPAGHETTI BOLOGNAISE Time: 1h Serves 4 1 tbsp olive oil 200 g steak mince 1 onion, finely chopped 4 large mushrooms, sliced 1 carrot, grated 400 g tinned tomatoes, chopped 230 ml vegetable stock 2 tbsps tomato purée ½ tsp Worcestershire sauce 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper 300g spaghetti 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley 1. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan. Add the mince and the onion and fry until the mince is brown. 2. Add the mushrooms, carrots, tinned tomatoes, vegetable stock, tomato purée, Worcestershire sauce and freshly ground black pepper. Stir well and simmer until the sauce has thickened. 3. Place spaghetti in a pan of boiling water and cook for instructed time, then drain. Traditional Meat & Potatoe THE PIE 1. Remove the pastry from the fridge and cut away one-third of it to use later. 2. Use a floured surface to roll out the remaining pastry. 3. Line the pastry around the bottom and sides of a medium sized cake tin (approximately 18cm x 4cm). 4. Place your chosen dish (spaghetti bolognaise in our case) in the cake tin. The spaghetti can be mixed with the sauce to create a consistent mixture for the pie. 5. Roll out the remaining pastry until it is 2.5cm larger than the top of the cake tin. Brush the edges with a little milk and add to the top of the pie, crimping the edges to make a seal. 6. Pre-heat the oven to 180°C and coat the top of the pie with a little milk. Then bake for 35-40 minutes. Per serving: 550kcals, 18g fat (12g saturated), 5g protein, 19g carbs (10g sugars), 0.9g salt
Spaghetti Bolognaise Pie
Read the extended article and watch video interviews at: www.feastmagazine.co.uk/pies
Pictures: Higgidy/press, Flickr/gusset, Flickr/pierrotsomepeople, Flickr/sjaustin, Flickr/suelangford, Flickr/deadlycrisp
BOOKS Darina Allen:
ounder of the fabulous Ballymaloe Cookery School, Darina Allen is a born teacher and her enthusiasm is infectious. Simply the bible of all recipe books, in ‘The Forgotten Skills of Cooking’, she uses her immense knowledge and superbly entertaining training ability to reconnect us with the failsafe cookery skills that have skipped a generation or two. And there’s not much this gastro goddess doesn’t tell you in this 600-page treasure trove which has raked in high praise, winning the Andre Simon Food Book Award. The book is divided into chapters such as ‘Hens and Eggs’, ‘Bread and Preserving’ and includes forgotten methods like foraging, keeping chickens, curing bacon, making yogurt and butter and even how to make your own cider, which are all explained in layman’s terms. It’s a brilliant resource for anyone who yearns to live the ‘Good Life’ or just wants to learn to
The Forgotten Skills of Cooking
cook like granny did. Really it makes you want to linger in Allen’s homemade world for as long as possible, sipping blackcurrant-leaf lemonade and preparing the feed for the chickens. And even if you don’t live on a 100acre garden like she does (we wish), the book is crammed with recipes you will definitely use, like th divine spaghetti with wild garlic and herbs or her mind-blowing raspberry fool. The Vegetables and Herbs chapter is also stuffed with growing tips to satisfy even those with the smallest garden plot or window box, and there are plenty of suggestions for using up mounds of vegetables. With over 700 divine recipes, this is the definitive modern guide to traditional cookery techniques, and has established itself as a firm Feast favourite. The book retails at £30, and is worth every penny, but we’ve found some copies going for a bargain £14 on Amazon, so make sure you snap one up.
win yourself a copy of darina’s book. Just go to the Feast website to answer the prize question at: www.feastmagazine. co.uk/competitions
Madagascar Bourbon Pure Vanilla Bean Paste
Everyone loves vanilla. It evokes the feeling of comfort and warmth and the childhood nostalgia of ice-creams at the seaside and apple pie with granny’s home-made custard. We’re all pretty familiar with vanilla essence. It’s the stuff we used to put in our cakes as kids, with its strangely artificial taste. The food-savvy among us may even have used vanilla extract100% natural, often organic and packing a huge flavour punch in every drop. But if you really want to elevate your food to a professional standard, then vanilla bean paste is where it’s at. And Feast absolutely adores Nielsen-Massey’s Madagascar Bourbon version. Vanilla bean paste is a thick, syrupy substance made by scraping out and removing the vanilla seed granules or ‘caviar’ found in ripe vanilla beans. These tiny bubbles of joy contain the majority of the ‘vanillin’, the main chemical in the bean which gives vanilla its rich, luxurious flavour. Each little bottle of Nielsen-Massey’s Madagascar Bourbon Pure Vanilla Bean Paste contains 20 vanilla pods-worth of extract, which will last you a good few hundred recipes. Use it to make ice-creams (in your ice-cream ball, obviously), crème brûlée, soufflés, milkshakes and cakes and this syrupy treat will add that intense vanilla flavour, with the flecks of vanilla seeds that will give your cooking a real gourmet appeal. Available at Lakeland, priced £6.99.
GADGETS Industrial Revolution Inc:
Ice Cream Ball
This is the coolest thing we’ve ever seen, and we know you’ll be wanting one for summer. Load the Ice Cream Ball up with your cusard mixture on one side, and ice and salt in another, throw her around for 20 min and ‘abracadabra’: a pint of lovely ice cream. It comes in an array of neon colours and is essentially a twoin-one play catch and cool down machine. It’s a synch at £26.49- so snap yours up now.
One of Thyme’s menu blackboards
The tasty tiramisu
Great dishes every thyme
With daily changing blackboard menus, you might expect Sheffield café Thyme to be a bit hit and miss. But every dish is as perfectly prepared as the next. It’s so good it had our reviewer, Josefin Wendel, drooling.
magine a Parisian bistro café. Now replace the French food with a mixture of mediterranean cuisine and the romantic language with a Yorkshire accent - and bam, you’ve got Thyme Café. This busy gastro café, opened in 2003, is a gem in Sheffield, a city otherwise overcrowded with greasy chippies and pub roast dinners. Tucked away on a side street in the cosy Broomhill area, Thyme is still full to capacity virtually every night. Thyme is relaxed dining at its best. So relaxed in fact, that they don’t even accept reservations. You’re advised to come with a back-up plan. But a worthy back-up plan might be harder than it seems. Thyme was voted the second best café in the UK by BBC Good Food readers, and we’re inclined to think Feast readers would agree. There just aren’t many places like this in the country. The food served here is an eclectic mix of dishes and cuisine, from deliciously marinated chilli jumbo prawns with an array of dipping sauces to classic burgers with hand-cut chips. The dining room atmosphere, with small tables scattered across the room, adds to Thyme’s charm. But the venue itself isn’t ideal for great conversations. The acoustics of the room makes it a rather loud dining experience: prepare for semi-shouting. When I visited the café on a relatively late
Pictures: Flickr/thegreenparty, Jayne Deacon, Flickr/jilmotts, Flickr/roboppy, Flickr/subspace, Dave Hitchborne, Devina Divecha
Friday night, it was busy but a polite waiter found us a table for two. As the café changes its menu on a daily basis (no, it really does!), the menu is written on blackboards rather than printed out. Every wall has a blackboard, in between framed paintings and drawings, displaying the starters and main courses of the day. I opted for the stuffed butternut squash with tomato sauce, served with crusty bread. The dish was genuinely exquisite, presenting me with perhaps the best-cooked butternut squash I’ve ever had. The subtle flavours of the peppers mixed brilliantly with the mild taste of butternut squash. The food portions in Thyme aren’t huge, but even if they were, the food is so delicious you’d probably still be wanting more. And after I’d tried the desserts, I was pretty happy to have room left for it. Ironically, after a small main course, the dessert portions turned out to be massive. A dessert sets you back £4.90, whether you go for the tiramisu, chocolate cake or whatever else is offered on the dessert mini-blackboard the waiter puts down on your table. With mains priced at £8-20, Thyme isn’t the cheapest place to eat in Sheffield, but it’s definitely value for money. For being a midrange priced café, Thyme still serves up highquality food.
Everything comes with a twist in Thyme, and quite often that twist isn’t so much a new ingredient as a slow-cooked, high-quality ingredient. For a dessert I enjoyed the raspberry mousse, strawberry ice cream and homemade shortbread combination. And when I say enjoy, I really mean it. You could eat here every day without getting bored. On the back of the coasters is a quote from comedian Joe E Lewis: “I went on a diet, swore off drinking and heavy eating, and in fourteen days I lost two weeks.” It sums up the foodloving but casual atmosphere in Thyme perfectly.
Thyme Cafe, 490-492 Glossop Road, Broomhill S10 2QA, Sheffield, Tel: 0114 267 0735
Thyme looks modest on the outside but the food is splendid
as sure as eggs is eggs
We often undervalue our humble friend the egg, a shame since it’s one of the quickest and most affordable ingredients around. We Brits get through 11 million eggs each year, and at just 80 calories, they’re a lovely, light choice for summer, especially if your beach diet is underway. as a main: smoked salmon and asparagus quiche
This is a great dish for when the weather’s iffy served with hot new potatoes, or makes fantastic picnic fodder, served in wedges with lashings of sunshine. Time: 1 ½ hours Serves 4 PASTRY 175g plain flour, plus extra for dusting salt 75g butter, plus extra for greasing FILLING 250g cheddar cheese, grated 200g cooked smoked salmon 150g asparagus spears, lightly pan-fried for 4 minutes 5 eggs, beaten 100ml milk 200ml double cream 1 tsp salt ½ tsp black pepper 2 sprigs of fresh thyme 1. To make the pastry, sift the flour together with a pinch of salt in a large bowl. Rub in the butter until you have a soft breadcrumb texture. Add enough cold water to make the crumb mixture come together to form a firm dough, and then rest it in the fridge for 30 min. 2. Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F/Gas 5. 3. Roll out the pastry on a light floured surface and line a 22cm well-buttered flan dish, trimming the edges of excess pastry with a sharp knife. Chill for a further 10 min. 4. Remove the pastry case from the fridge and line the base with baking parchment and baking beans (Dried lentils will do the trick!). Place on a baking tray and ‘bake blind’ for 20 minutes. 5. Remove the pastry from the oven and reduce the temperature to 160°C/325°F/Gas 3. 6. Sprinkle the cheese and salmon into the pastry case. Combine the eggs with the milk and cream in a bowl, adding the salt and pepper. Pour over cheese and salmon. 7. Arrange the asparagus in a spoke fashion on top of the mixture and sprinkle with the thyme. 8. Bake for 30-40 min (or until set). Remove from the oven and allow to cool and set further. TIP: - If you’re short for time, use a ready-made pastry case. Per serving: 430kcals, 17g fat (3.2g saturated), 42.1g protein, 75.2g carbs (70.1g sugars), 3.1g salt
Smoked salmon and asparagus quiche
as a main: potato, chorizo and feta frittata
This is an Italian take on the classic omelette. It’s really simple to make, and great for using up left over ingredients. These flavours work really well together, but try it with your own fillings too.Great served hot out the oven, or cold with a summer salad and a chilled glass of white wine. Time: 50 min Serves 4 250g potatoes, peeled and sliced into small cubes 6 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, peeled and sliced 8 medium eggs 100ml single cream 1 tsp salt ½ tsp black pepper 1 tbsp fresh basil, chopped 125g chorizo, sliced 125g feta cheese, crumbled 1. Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas 4. Boil potatoes in saucepan for five minutes, or until just cooked. Drain and set aside. 2. Heat a 25cm/10in ovenproof frying pan and add three tablespoons of olive oil and the sliced onions. Cover the frying pan with a saucepan lid and sweat over a gentle heat until the onion becomes soft and slightly golden. Then remove from the heat and set aside. 3. Whisk the eggs in a bowl and add the cream, salt, pepper and the fresh basil. Add the sliced chorizo, the cooked onions and the potatoes to
the bowl and mix well. 4. Heat the remaining olive oil in the frying pan and pour in the egg mixture. 5. Sprinkle the crumbled feta cheese on to the top of the mixture and place the pan in the oven to bake for 30 min. TIP: - One tablespoon of fresh herbs can be replaced by one teaspoon of dried herbs, but beware the flavour won’t be the same. - Make this dish vegetarian by using e.g. vegetarian/vegan bacon instead of chorizo. Per serving: 450kcals, 19.2g fat (4.1g saturated), 41.2g protein, 67.8g carbs (59.2g sugars), 3.4g salt
Pictures: Flickr/ambernectar13, Flickr/Picman
potato, chorizo and feta frittata
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Potato, chorizo and feta frittata
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PIC TO COME (of Matty cooking)
What’s in your pantry?
The Feast team loves meeting up with our readers. This month we took the train to Sheffield for a curry cooking sesh with Matty Kennedy, 21.
how did you get into cooking?
“Necessity. Coming to university meant I had to look after myself and luckily I found something I was passionate about in food. “I started off with spam and got better. I think the more you experience you get, the more confidence you get and the more adventurous your style of cooking can get.”
how much do you spend on food in a month?
“About £150. That’s quite a lot. Jesus.”
Favourite thing to cook?
“Duck, when I can afford it. I love duckbreast. I make some form of red wine sauce, maybe with cranberries or port, and serve it with mashed potato of sort. “My mum actually goes and buys loads of reduced duck breasts and freezes them for when I come home to visit.”
what are your favourite childhood dishes?
them. Then put the spices in with the oil in a hot pan. (This releases their flavours.) 2. Add the finely sliced onions to the pan. On a low to medium heat soften the onions for about 5-10 min to sweat them down. (If it becomes dry, add a bit of water.) 3. Add the coconut milk (sparingly, you can always add more but never take away). Leave it to cook for 5-10 min. 4. Blend the ingredients in the pan with a handheld blender until it becomes a thin sauce. Taste to see if it’s spicy enough, adding chilli powder if not. 5. Add monkfish and king prawns and cook through for about 5 min. (Make sure not to overcook the monkfish.) 6. Serve with basmati rice or pilau. Per serving: 380kcals, 18.5g fat (2.9g saturated), 36.2g protein, 58.6g carbs (41.3g sugars), 2.8g salt
Matty’s favourite fish curry
Time: 35 min Equipment: handheld blender Serves 2 (or me!) 4 large white onions, finely sliced 2 tsp fenugreek seeds 3 tsp coriander seeds 3tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp black pepper 3 tsp turmeric chilli powder to taste 1 can of coconut milk (full fat, preferably) 300 g monk fish tail 10-15 king prawns, tails off 3 tbsp vegetable oil 1. Dry roast the fenugreek, coriander and cumin until lightly golden. Put the roasted seeds in a pestle and mortar and grind
“Roast dinners, although we don’t eat them that often. Perhaps just for special occasions. “My family don’t really have any recipes that they cook over and over again. The dishes we have are quite varied, but as I got older my mum got more adventurous with the type of food that she was cooking for me.”
Favourite chef tip?
“When cooking with red meat it’s always better to undercook than overcook.”
how often do you eat out?
“Whenever I can, but probably only about two to three times per month while I’m at uni, a bit more when I’m at home. “I like French cuisine, although there’s no type of food that I dislike as such.”
“The Auberge in Southport.”
what’s your favourite recipe?
what’s your food pet hate?
“I hate cheese, and tofu. I bloody hate tofu.”
Pictures: Emma Postill, Michael Malecki
“I like making homemade curries. I like the way you can alter and vary them. You can make it basically with any sort of spice. You can tailor it very easily to your own personal tastes.”
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