making beautiful bead & wire jewelry

30step-by-step projects from materials old and new

linda jones

bead & wire jewelry making beautiful 30 step-by step projects from materials old and new LINDA JONES cleo BOOKS LONDON N:EWYORK © CICO Books .

without the prior permission of the publisher. David Munns. who has always nurtured and encouraged my creativity and helped me to believe I can attain my dreams. Stuart West Stylist: Luis Peral-Aranda © CICO Books . stored in a retrieval system. NY 10012 www. No part of this publication may be reproduced. or transmitted in any form or by any means. All rights 1098765432 1 Text © Linda Jones 2010 Design and photography © CI CO Books 2010 The author's moral rights have been asserted. or otherwise. 5th Floor London WC1R 4BW New York.cicobooks. Published in 2010 by CICO Books An imprint of Ryland Peters & Small Ltd 20-21 Jockey's Fields 519 Broadway. photocopying. A CIP catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress and the British Library. ISBN: 978 1 907030666 Printed in China Editor: Sarah Hoggett Designer: David Fordham Photographers: Geoff Dann (steps).dedication This book is dedicated to my beautiful mother and best friend on her 80th year. electronic. mechanical.

contents Introduction Tools and techniques Chapter 1:bijoux 6 8 bangles rings 22 36 54 74 90 108 126 127 128 Chapter 2: ravishing Chapter 3: elegant earrings chains Chapter 4: statement Chapter 5: notable Chapter 6: artful Jig patterns Suppliers necklaces adornments Index and acknowledgments © CICO Books .


introduction In the ten years or so that I've been making bead and wire jewelry. chain. or old. Even a lone earring can be transformed into a pendant. but also enables you to produce unique pieces of wearable art! In designing the projects for this book. or even nylon filament. be inventive and improvise with objects around you. use them just at the front of a necklace. Combining everyday objects with traditional beads in this way not only brings down the cost." as do old buttons. However. in these recession-hit times. one of the biggest thrills for me has been seeing more and more people discover the pleasure of making unique. Thrift stores. and garage sales are all great sources of inexpensive jewelry components. one-off pieces of costume jewelry for themselves. and spark your imagination with renewed creativity. and necklaces and bracelets can be taken apart and reassembled into new designs. Whether you're an experienced jeweler or completely new to this craft. The sides and back can be ribbon. are extremely seductive places and it's easy to get carried away and buy things you don't really need and can't afford. as in the Vintage Button Necklace on page 95. too. and pretty feathers picked up on a country walk can add a flamboyant finishing touch to a brooch or hair accessory. while florist's wire and even gardening wire can form the basis for a piece of jewelry. Look out for special offers and wholesale beads online to avoid making expensive impulse purchases. cord. pieces that they might be thinking of getting rid of. LINDA JONES © CICO Books Introduction 7 . but most important of all. Broken chains can be cut up and suspended into chained tassels. not all the way around. flea markets. If you already have some expensive focal beads. Last. as anyone who's ever visited one will know. Bead stores. we're all looking for ways to save money-so my aim in this book is to show you how you can create pieces of designer jewelry for next to nothing. contemporary-looking "beads. strengthen your wire-working skills. Here are my top money-saving tips. I hope this book will open your mind. Discarded electrical cable has a wealth of copper wire within it. or come across some that you simply can't resist buying. Interestingly-shaped pebbles and colorful shells can be wrapped with wire to become focal points in a design. Set a limit on the amount you want to spend and make sure you stick to it-and don't forget to include the cost of postage and packaging to your total. I've had great fun thinking laterally and trying to find new uses for things that are not traditional jewelry components. Look in your household tool box and sewing box for components: humble washers and bolts make graphic. Recycle! Tell all your friends and family that you are making jewelry and would welcome any broken. and you can often find second-hand pieces at knock-down prices that you can take apart and make into a number of stunning new creations.

It is better to do this in several short movements. (1 ern) of wire extending on each side. t Working from the spool. thread your chosen bead onto the wire. leaving about X in. repositioning the pliers as necessary. hold each link firmly in the jaws of your pliers and twist until both links face the same way-otherwise they will twist around when linked together as a chain. than to attempt to make one continuous circle. use the tips of your round-nose pliers to bend the wire at a right angle. 12 Tools and Techniques © CICO Books . Repeat Steps 2-4 to form another link at the other end of the bead. which is then used to suspend the bead from a chain or to connect one bead to another. 2 When you've threaded the bead.basic techniques Threading beads and making a link The basic principle is to construct a neat circle of wire (known as a "link") at each end of the bead. Holding the wire vertically. Remove the bead and cut the wire with your wire cutters. with the bead in the center. 3 Thread the bead back onto the cut wire. following the contour of your pliers. at the point where it touches the bead. 4 Hold and squeeze the very end of the bent wire tightly with your round-nose pliers and curl it round to form a small circle.

If the hole in the bead is large and it slips over the head pin. t Snip the wire as close as possible to the stem. so that the bead sits on top of it like a tiny shelf. leaving the end exposed. and then press it firmly with your flat. Making a head pin If you want to suspend a bead from a chain. use a small needle file or sandpaper to file away any roughness. seed bead threaded onto the wire above the head pin. (1 ern) long. important to neaten the ends to prevent any sharp pieces from sticking out and snagging on clothing or scratching the wearer. t Working from the spool. The head pin (on the right-hand end o} the bead) is unobtrusive. make a tiny curl at one end of the wire. thread your chosen bead onto the wire and let it slip down. 3 Push your bead right up to the "head pin" and snip the wire. For an extra smooth finish.) Basic Techniques 13 © CICO Books . using your round-nose pliers. bend the head pin at a right angle." which is virtually invisible but prevents the bead from slipping off the wire. At the other end. leaving a stem about X in. You can also make decorative head pins. Form a link at this end of the wire. you need to make what is known as a "head pin. but it prevents the bead }rom slipping o}} the wire. From left to right: wire curled into a closed spiral.or chain-nose pliers to flatten it against the piece of jewelry. Squeeze this curl flat with your flat-nose pliers to create a knob of doubled wire.Neatening ends When you've wrapped one piece of wire around another-when for example-it's making a clasp. slide on a small seed bead to act as a stopper. (Alternatively. 2 Using the tips of your round-nose pliers. you only need a suspension link at one end of the bead. wire hammered so that it spreads in a 'feather" shape.

22 © CICO Books .

even apparently complicated pieces can be made without breaking the bank. yet eye-catching. way of making a style statement but. as these projects show.bijoux bangles A beautiful bangle is a simple." the projects in this chapter are "arm candy" of the highest order! © CICO Books 23 . Ranging from delicate twists of silver wire threaded onto a simple frame to a chunky elasticated design incorporating old buttons as "charms.

3 Bend the projecting wire in two and wrap the end around the stem. (12-14mm) in diameter Wire cutters Round. 24 Bijoux Bangles © CICO Books . "stroke" hammer the rounded end on a steel stake to work harden it (see page 20). leaving 1~ in.and flat-nose pliers Hammer and steel stake (optional) t Cut 10 in. see the Washer Sundial Choker on page 102. thread beads and bolts alternately onto the wire. (25 cm ) of 20-gauge (0. approx.8mm) silver wire 13 x 10mm plastic faceted "crystal" beads 12 steel bolts. (4 ern) of wire projecting at the end. you will need 20-gauge (O.8mm) silver wire. Other items from your local hardware store. If you wish. ~ in. can be used between the beads as spacers. such as steel washers or short pieces of plastic tubing.bolt 'n' bead bangle The matt surface of the hexagonal bolts provides a striking contrast to the shininess of the beads. Neaten the end (see page 13). just under the last threaded bead. 2 Starting and ending with a faceted bead. Make a fish-hook clasp (see page 17) at the end of the doubled wire. This bangle illustrates how you can use a simple piece of household equipment to create a unique piece of jewelry. Make a wrapped loop (see page 20) at one end for the "eye" of the fastener.

4 Wrap the piece around a cylindrical object that is slightly smaller in diameter than the bangle and press it around to create the circular shape. RIGHT For a lighter-looking design. I used silver coils to match the steely gray color oj the other elements. place thin coils oj wire between the bolts and beads. Spend a little time shaping it. © CICO Books Bolt 'n' Bead Bangle 25 .

from simple overlapping loops and colored coils to more intricate wire-wrapping. but also with different ways of creating ring shanks. you can coordinate the colors to perfection. The projects in this chapter allow you to experiment not only with different bead combination centerpieces. with a cluster of just a few tiny recycled beads or even a single prettily shaped button.ravishing' rings A handcrafted ring is perhaps the simplest and most inexpensive way of matching your jewelry to your outfit as. © CICO Books 37 .


Cut a piece of 20-gauge (O. and add 2 in. or use semi-precious chips as I have done.and flat-nose pliers Hammer and steel stake Ring mandrel t Measure the circumference of the ring size required. (5 ern). as before. to form a second loop. Even though this ring looks extravagant. Place your round-nose pliers at the center of the wire and wrap both ends around one of the tapered shafts. 3 Reposition the pliers so that the first shaft of the pliers is threaded through the last loop and cross the wires over so that the ends project in opposite directions. you will need 28·gauge (O.8mm) silver wire 6-8 small semi-precious chips in assorted colors Wire cutters Round.beaded bird-nest • nng You can use this design to use up any odd beads you have lying around. © CICO Books Beaded Bird-nest Ring 39 . crossing them over as before. The nest of wire around the beads highlights whatever is within it-like precious bird eggs. double this measurement.4mm) and 20-gauge (O. wrap the wire ends around the second shaft. until they cross over each other and the ends project in opposite directions. it's relatively cheap to make and can be the perfect birthday present if you use the recipient's birthstone. 2 Keeping the wire in place on the pliers.8mm) silver wire to this length.

repositioning your pliers each time. and neaten the ends at the back of the ring (see page 13). until the band is the length you require. wrap the wire ends around the ring shank. Wrap the center of this wire around the looped band. at the point where you formed the securing link in Step 5. / 7 Cut 3-4 in. leaving the first wire projecting. 8 Thread the end of each wire in turn with semi-precious chips. threading the projecting wire through the first loop that you made in Step 2. 40 Ravishing Rings © CICO Books . gently stroke it flat with a hammer on a steel block and then wrap it around the ring mandrel to shape it. snip off any excess.Continue creating a looped band. Gently "stroke" hammer it (see page 20) on the ring mandrel to work harden it. (8-10 ern) of 28-gauge (0. 4 Bend the looped band around to form a circle. 5 6 If the band seems very uneven. wrap the other wire around this stem. placing the colors randomly and wrapping the wire around the ring shank after every two or three stones to secure them in place. 9 When all the stones are on. so that it's parallel to the loops. Using flat-nose pliers. Pull one wire out straight. The stones will hide the area where the two ends of the ring join.4mm) wire. Cut off any excess and neaten the end (see page 13). Form a link (see page 12) at the end of the projecting wire to complete the ring shank. leaving both ends of wire protruding.

54 © CICO Books .

And. as you need only a few beads to make a pair of earrings. whether it's for day. As they're on a small scale.Earrings instantly add drama and a touch of feminine glamor to any outfit. this is the perfect opportunity to recycle broken necklaces or second-hand bracelets into brand-new fashion statements.or eveningwear. © CICO Books 55 . all these earring projects are relatively quick to make and provide the ideal opportunity to hone your wire-working skills.

UK Faulkners Oast (East) Tonbridge Road Hadlow Kent TN 11 oAj Tel.wigjig. 66 LAND OF ODDS 718 Thompson Lane Ste 125.riogrande. NY 11no Tel: (718) 7650124 MODE INTERNATIONAL 5111-4th Avenue Brooklyn. 0844 3570943 COOKSON PRECIOUS METALS 59-83 Vittoria Street Birmingham B1 3NZ Tel. CREATIVE BEAD CRAFT LTD 1 Marshall Street London WIF 9BA Tel. THE SCIENTIFIC WIRE 18 Raven Road London E18 IHW Tel.jillybeads. WA 99210-0450 Tel: (800) 3662156 www.cooksongold. 01524 412 728 RINGS & THINGS PO Box 450.e-beads. NW THUNDERBIRD SUPPLY COMPANY 1907 W Historic Rte. DVDs. 0845 100 1122 Workshops.shipwreckbeads. E-BEADS LTD Unit TRI-2 Trowbray House 108 Weston Street London SEI 3QB Tel. Placentia. N St. jewelry tools. NM 87121 Tel: (800) 5456566 STORMCLOUD TRADING CO. OR 97526-2373 Tel: (800) 3552137 INTERNATIONAL CRAFT PO Box 73 Hemel Hempstead Hertfordshire HP 1 2TR Tel. Suite Suppliers of Tronex JILLY BEADS LTD 1 Anstable Road Morecambe Lancashire LA4 6TG Tel. © CICO Books Suppliers 127 . 01923 235 336 MICHAELS For store locations WIGjIG PO Box 5124 Gaithersburg. and expert advice. SHIPWRECK BEADS 8650 Commerce Place 725 Snelling JEWELRY SUPPLY Roseville CA 95678 Tel: (916) 7809610 www. 0207 367 6217 www. CA 92870 Tel: (714) 572 8558 WA 98516 Tel: (800) 950 4232 www. NM 87301 Tel: (800) 545 7968 www. 0207 734 1982 www. and precious metal wires. NE MAD COW BEADS The Bull Pen Great Larkhill Farm Long Newnton Tetbury Gloucestershire GL8 8SY Tel. 01732 850 727 UIZ suppliers THE BEAD SHOP 21 Tower Street London WC2H 9NS UNICORNE BEADS 404 Evelyn (Suppliers of wire only) co. log on to: www. MN 55104 Tel: (651) 645 0343 Suppliers of steel stakes.landofodds.modebeads. TN 37204 Tel: (615) 292 0610 www. Spokane.michaels.wirejewellery. 0208 505 0002 www. 0207 240 0931 www. MD 20882 www.creativebeadcraft. US suppliers FIRE MOUNTAIN GEMS 1 Fire Mountain Way Grants INC. RIO GRANDE 7500 Bluewater Road.

87.25. 92 without holes 92. 24. Lastly. using 8.45.-bracket 78-79. 39 shells 11. 116-118 choice 9 colored 20. 92. 116 glue 98 greetings cards 87. Also my biggest thanks go to Sarah Hoggett. 11. 2 1.42. 98 stars 61.116-118 bracelets balcony bangle 29-31 butterfly chain 86-89 charm 32-33 clasps 19-20 crossed wires 83-85. 81 charms bracelet 32-33 earrings 63 memory lane lariat 92-94 choker.113 hat pin. 15 jump rings 11. 126 clasps 17-21 dragonfly pendant 113 glass nugget 98 -101 loop-de-loop lariat 80-82 magic ladder 76-77 memory lane lariat 92-94 pet stone pendant 116 planning 7 teardrop pendant 64 vintage button 95-97 washer sundial choker 102-104 nuts 7. 33. 9. pet stone 116-118 lapel pin. 50. 108-125 bangles see bracelets bead links 12 beads buying 7 choice 10. 12-21 fish-hook clasps 17-18. 17. 83 findings 12-21 freehand motifs 105 neatening ends 13 work hardening 15. 52-53 rings beaded bird-nest 38-41 butterfly unit 87 cluster 48-51 pretty button 42-44 two-tone doodle 45-47 wrapped embrace 52-53 S-link spiral 15. 34.index accessories 87. 9. 9.30. 67. 16-17 spiral S-link 15 materials 7. shooting star 119-121 links bead 12 jump rings 11. 94 earrings bead-pod 68-71 butterfly 87 candelabra 56-59 findings 11 starburst 60-63 teardrop 64-67 washer 104 yin-yang 72-73 fascinator 114-115 feathers 11.83. 75 findings 11. making 13 jigs. 11. washer sundial 102-104 clasps 11 fish-hook 17-18. 113 hairgrips butterfly 87 dragonfly 110.92 semi -precious chip stones 11. 127 napkin rings 34 necklaces butterfly pendant 87 chained reaction 105-107.11. 21 found items 7.45. who is without doubt the best editor and adviser I could wish for. 115 findings 11. 126 glass nugget 100 hinge-s. 77.24 pebbles 11.11 focal 128 Index and Acknowledgments © CICO Books . 40. especially to Cindy Richards for giving me another opportunity to publish my designs. 116-118 plastic tubing 24 pliers 8 recycling 7. 33 spirals making 14-15 projects using 34. shooting star 119-121 head pin. a big thank you to Geoff Dann. 16-17 key rings.122 chains 74-89 see also necklaces choice 7. whose photography makes the projects come to life. 126 nut 'n' bead bangle 24-25 ribbon-weave bangle 26-28 toggle clasp 19-20 wavy wiggles bangle 34-35 brooches bow 122-125 findings 11 star 119-121 buttons 7.94 cord 9. 81.98. 20 acknowledgments Thanks to everyone at CICO Books involved in this publication.21 making eye 20 toggle 19-20 coils 21. 26-28 ring mandrel 8. 16-21 plumbing 77. 119 techniques 12-21 tools 8 washers 11. 41.92 ribbon 7. 102 wire cage 92. 15. 21.

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