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t White Dwarf we are lucky to have the 'Eavy Metal team painting all the models we feature in the

magazine, which means you get to see the models painted to the highest possible standards. For an example of this, take a look at the gob-smacking paint jobs in the Harry the Hammer article on page 95. However, most of us will not be painting our models to that level. In fact, to get a lot of units or squads done in a reasonable amount of time, you won't even want to attempt it! Instead, we often go for the "batch painting" option, which usually consists of a basecoat, a shade and two highlights. This is perfect for an "assembly line" approach, resulting in a good-looking army which you'll be proud to field on the tabletop. The secret to good army-level painting is to be organised and create an assembly line style of painting, tackling a


batch of models in a single session. So, for instance, you may paint the shoulder pad trim of your entire Space Marine squad in one go, or basecoat the breastplates of a whole unit Empire state troopers at once. Aim for neatness above all else - you'll need to start with neat, flat basecoats if you are to get the best results. Before you even start painting, of course, you'll need to clean up and assemble your models. As with painting, your miniatures can be assembled quickly in large batches as long as you keep your work area tidy and organised. The Studio's hobbyists are constantly tasked with knocking out lots of units to tight deadlines, so we turned to them for advice on batch painting to a high standard. Chad Mierzwa, and 'Eavy Metal's Neil Green and Fil Dunn, were only too happy to impart their knowledge.

You can then make any alterations to the pose that you need there's more to it than just sticking individual models together in cool poses . Fil used adhesive putty to temporarily stick the shields into position . then the arms. as you can switch regiment bases for individual models when your unit takes casualties. with the supporting arm slightly lower. and then drop the bolter in place without glue. you'll need to cut the pistol grip and trigger guard away with a pair of Plastic Cutters.Construction When building a Warhammer regiment. When sticking the unit together. Before you glue the gun in place. Fil broke the process into making assembly easy! www. Assembly Most models for The Lord of the Rings strategy battle game comprise of just one or two pieces. some models still need to be assembled on individual bases. To make life easier. then the can twist torsos and change the positions of the arms so that they don't clatter into each other (2). and so on (1). FiI used regiment bases where possible. For an extra touch of realism. such as the command group. additional front-rank models. gluing down all the legs first.this allowed him to test their positioning while keeping them separate for the painting process (3). Finally. Construction Getting the arms to line up so that the bolter sits correctly is made simpler by using Citadel Plastic Glue to attach them . although this stage is entirely optional. This is generally rather useful in games. These are designed to hold four models side-by-side. while the glue holding the arms on is still wet. Building models from the ground up like this allows you to ensure that they rank up well . rather than a single model. It's a good idea to leave the head until last to make sure that the model is looking in a sensible direction. you can drill out the holes in the gun barrel with a Hobby Drill. Obviously.just stick both arms roughly level. and the fifth model in each have to think about how the models will interact when grouped together into a 85 .

the shields were painted Mechrite Red..The ornate horn was painted with a 1:1 mix of Scorched Brown and Shining Gold. Next. i i ':.'" ~ _ --'.. straps and wood respectively. Finally.I i. The buckler and sword hilt were basecoated with Tin Bitz.'. the leather straps and pouches were picked out with Scorched Brown.• .~ . Scorched Brown and Calthan Brown were used for the rags.. On these Skeletons. the eye lenses and purity seal are picked out in Mechrite Red. while the sword blade was painted Boltgun Metal. and the metallic areas were painted Boltgun Metal. while the shoulder pad rims are painted with a 1:1 mix of Scorched Brown and Shining Gold. The black areas are painted with a 1:1 mix of Chaos Black and Fortress Grey. Khemri Brown. Finally. o Basecoat FiI applied flat coats over the black undercoat. and the shirt with Necron Abyss. ..61!1. he painted the pantaloons with a 1:1 mix of Chaos Black and Liche Purple. The metal bits are basecoated Boltgun Metal. o Basecoat . taking care to achieve a smooth and very neat finish with each application. Chad started by basecoating the skin with Bestial Brown. The prescription armour colour here is a 1:1 mix of Ultramarines Blue and Regal Blue. ~f t ~ •. o Basecoat 86 WHITE DWARF ARMY BUILDING .J r •• . the bones were painted Dheneb Stone.

The dark shading wash brings out the detail on the models with the minimum of effort. The hair was carefully highlighted with a 1:1 mix of Chaos Black and Codex Grey. Finally. Finally. The skin was highlighted Dwarf Flesh. Chad highlighted the metal areas the sword with Chainmail and the buckler with Dwarf Bronze. Most gamers would be perfectly happy to finish at this stage. Fil applied a thin wash of Chaos Black over the metallic areas for good measure. Instead. but Neil wanted to go a little further. @Highlight Chad layered on the highlights. Once this was dry. then thinned it down with water to the consistency of ink. www. the wax seal and lenses were highlighted with Blood the shirt with Regal Blue. the pantaloons with Liche 87 . @ Definition Neil gave the blue armour a wash mixed from Regal Blue and Chaos Black. @Shading With a unit of 20 models to paint. he mixed up equal parts Scorched Brown and Chaos Black. and the leather areas with Snakebite Leather. Fil wasn't so concerned with the intricacies of selective shading. before applying Ultramarines Blue highlights. while the black areas received a very sharp highlight of Codex Grey. The gold areas were highlighted Shining Gold. leaving the basecoats visible in the recesses. This mix was applied over the entire model as a shading wash.

a small amount of Mithril Silver was added to Dwarf Bronze for the highlight on the buckler. The bones received a Bleached Bone highlight while the shields were highlighted Blood Red. 88 WHITE DWARF ARMY BUILDING . Finally. The face received a highlight mixed from Bleached Bone and Dwarf Flesh. finally. Mithril Silver was added to Shining Gold for the edging highlights on the gold areas. The straps and cloths were highlighted Snakebite Leather.The war horn was given a wash of a 1:1 mix of Dark Angels Green and Hawk Turquoise. the metal bits were highlighted with Mithril Silver before being washed with Vermin Brown. Fortress Grey was used as a sharp highlight on the boltgun casing. The metal bits were highlighted with Chainmail and. @)Fine Highlights The edges of the Space Marine's armour were picked out with a 1:1 mix of U1tramarines Blue and Space Wolves Grey. Finally. while the eyes were highlighted with a spot of Blazing Orange. while Fortress Grey was also added to Regal Blue for the shirt highlights. @)Highlights The final highlights were applied only to the most prominent areas. A 1:1 mix of Liche Purple and Fortress Grey was applied to the pantaloons. @)Highlights FiI simply applied a strong highlight to all the raised areas of the models. and the wooden areas were edged with Bestial Brown.

000. Fit then applied blobs of PVA to the base with a cheap. he drybrushed the sand with Bleached Bone (3). This has the added advantage of sealing the sand with the black www. Once the basecoat was dry. above.000 Neil based the Space Marines by covering the top surface of the slottabases with PVA Glue (1) and dipping them into a tub of sand (2). Many players like to base their miniatures before undercoating them. and stuck Citadel Scorched Grass to the surface (2).co. The Lord of the Rings Chad based the Corsairs in exactly the same way that Neil based his Space Marines. However.Basing Your Models Warhammer 40. Rather than basecoat the sand with paint. leaving it to dry thoroughly before applying the Bleached Bone 89 . so Chad used blobs of PVA (1) to stick down clumps of static grass and coarse turf (2) . rather than wait until the end. He shook off the excess sand and left the glue to dry. Warhammer Fil used the same sand technique as Neil. and finally painted the rims of the bases with Graveyard Earth (4). Fit flooded the area with Brown Ink. Chad has painted the base as he's gone along.the latter is available from most specialist model shops or model railway suppliers. to texture his bases. old brush (1). Middle-earth is much more conducive to images of lush vegetation and verdant plains than the harsh alien landscapes of Warhammer 40. although it does mean that you'll need to basecoat the sand rather than colour it with ink. before painting the sand with Scorched Brown. After tapping away the excess grass (3). Alternative Aproach primer. the model is ready to join its regiment. In this

Warhammer 40. although you really don't need to go this far.000 Once the chapter badge transfers have been applied. your Space Marines are ready to report for duty. The Lord of the Rings Groups of Corsairs tend to look like a dynamic bunch of individuals rather than a regimented unit.Additional Details Warhammer All that remained was to paint a Movement Tray for the unit. Markings Neil used a mix of waterslide transfers and freehand technique (show offl) to add his squad markings. Unit Standard Fil painted a design onto the unit's banner. regardless of how they've been painted. 90 WHITE DWARF ARMY BUILDING . Fil finished the edges of his tray in the same was as the unit's bases. inspired by the Corsairs from The Return of the King movie. Chad used a fine detail brush to paint on a variety of tattDos and warpaint markings.

Fil began by assembling and undercoating the entire Battalion at once. we got Fil Dunn to paint up an entire Battalion box set in just a few you've mastered the basic techniques of army building and batch-painting. The trick. 500 points or so at a time . too many models sitting on your workstation will have the adverse effect and become daunting rather than motivational. Once the models were prepared. Each box contains at least the minimum core units of core troops you need to get started. whereas Citadel Colour paints often require several applications). However. as described earlier. Fil applied every stage covered earlier to his models. Saving character models until last is a great way to treat yourself after the hard work of unit-painting. not many of us can lay claim to being an 'Eavy Metal-standard painter. and soon found the regiments stacking up. he couldn't resist going the extra mile at the detail stage. but Fil's approach and basic technique can be applied regardless of your experience or ability level. being one of the world's best figure painters. is a methodical approach. as you can probably tell! Finally. This approach is fine for blocks of an army . providing a strong foundation for your force and a good supply of models for your production line! www. there'll be no stopping you! To illustrate how quickly a great-looking army can be built. Of course. Fil started blocking in the base colours for his 91 . Battalions and Battle Forces are ideal ways to start a new army. he painted a Vampiress to lead the fledgling having all of those undercoated models staring at you is a very visual representation of how much you have left to do. using Foundation Paints where possible to speed up the process (they cover a black undercoat in one coat. don't be tempted to bite O off more than this in one go.