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Optional Base 1 8g x 32mm

c/s screw
The bracket feet that I put 8g x 38mm
on the blanket chest are c/s screw
really distinctive, but this block
simpler, “ogee” base
makes a great alternative.
25 x 18
It’s just a mitred frame mounting
that’s set in 8mm from cleats
the edges of the bullnose NOTE: Base is
1124 flush with back
base frame. (The ogee base should 473 and centred
side to side
line up with the base moulding above.) 3mm
After the pieces are mitred, I cut spline
kerfs and splines that will reinforce
the joint. Then the profile shown in a. 160
Fig. 1a can be cut and smoothed. This
isn’t hard, but work carefully so you 25
end up with clean, smooth lines. NOTE:
Profiles are 100
Before attaching the frame, you’ll identical
need to add some mounting cleats to on sides 45mm-rad.
and front
the front and sides of the base frame.
And two triangular brace blocks rein-
force the base frame at the back. W

Mortising Chest Hinges

There’s no big secret to mortising held router with a straight bit to rough the router base more surface to ride
butt hinges. I’ve found that all it takes out the mortise. (I used a 10mm-dia. on. (A rebate in the block just pro-
is a little know-how and a dose of bit.) This method gives you a smooth vides clearance to start the cut.)
patience. And like any job, I like to bottom and a consistent depth and Once you’re set up, just take it slow.
use any shortcuts that are available. just makes the job just a bit easier. First test the depth of the cut, and
LAYOUT . For the blanket chest in But there are a couple of simple when you’re satisfied, sneak up close
issue No. 33, I started with the case. tricks to this method. First you need to the scored lines with the bit.
The first step here is to lay out the to set the router bit to cut to the right CLEAN-UP. After you’ve roughed out
mortise. Once you’ve marked the depth. Fig. 2a. shows what you’re after the mortise, a sharp chisel will com-
position of the hinge, just set it in place here — the same depth mortise in plete the job. Just deepen the scored
and score around it with a sharp util- the lid and the case. I just measured lines you made earlier with the utili-
ity knife, as in Fig. 1. The sharp cuts the thickness of the hinge barrel and ty knife and then carefully pare away
are easy to see and will give you a then split the difference, subtracting the waste, as shown in Fig. 3.
head start when it’s time to clean out a little (0.75mm) so I’d end up with LID MORTISES. Now the case mortis-
the mortise. (Remember that the bar- clearance between the lid and the case. es can be used to locate the mortis-
rel of the hinge should sit proud of Next, to safely use a router on the es in the lid. But this time, you won’t
the case, as shown in Fig. 2a.) narrow edge of the case, you’ll need need the support block. And finally,
ROUTER SHORTCUT . You could start a little help. As you can see in Fig. 2, try to make sure the pilot holes for the
chopping out the mortise with a sharp I used a 100 x 50 block clamped flush screws are centred so they don’t move
chisel, but I like to use a small hand- with the top edge of the case to give the hinges in the mortises. W

Rebate in
1 2 support
block SIDE
provides SECTION
clearance for FIRST: Deepen
router bit score lines

Mortise roughed Hinge

Score out with router
around mortised
the hinge 100 x 50 clamped same depth
with a to case helps into case
sharp support router and lid SECOND: Pare
knife base away waste

Australian Woodsmith No. 33 Online Extras © 2003 August Home Publishing Company