Crag Topo Berowra is one of Sydney’s most popular climbing areas.

The climbing is predominately sport climbing with a few trad routes thrown in for good measure. The cliff face due west so can bake on a hot day. Cool weather is definitely the preferred time to climb here although it is possible in ALL weather. After rain some of the walls tend to be a little dirty and may require a little cleaning. Access: Berowra is located 10mins drive north of Sydney just of the F3 freeway. It can be accessed by public transport although the walk from the train station at Berowra would be 30mins. By car drive to the end of Wide view Rd and park out of the way of residents. Not To Scale
Blackboard Parking

Pimple Buttress

Ladder of Gloom area

Glamorpus Area

Cliff

Bullet hole wall

Positive Ape Factor area

Wall Thing W all

This Guide was produced by Crag X

Be careful out there. Anyone using this guide understands that climbing is a dangerous sport that could result in injury or worse. Climb names that are in bold are featured on a photo topo and ones that are in grey do not. Disclaimer: While every effort is taken to supply information that is correct this guide is not necessarily correct.How to read the guide: The guide is divided into two columns and reads like a newspaper. This Guide was produced by Crag X .

James Holbrook 1980s Stone Grotties 8m 16 Start: 2m right of SC Toprope or solo only. Very popular. Climbs up the right of the wall near the arête. 4 RB’s to double RB lower off. B 9m 25+ Start: 2m right of CC. Jug up past two fixed hangers to belay off tree. No gear and very dirty. Climb through roof past Br and RB to pleasant easier crack with natural protection. Mike Law. Looks run out and unpleasant. Blank wall with two Br’s ascent details unknown. It is located 50m south of Pimple Buttress IFY TM P Savage Cabbage 8m 19 Start: Below crack / flake 5m left of CC Climbs the crack system on the left of the wall near CC. A 10m 17 Start: Marked left of Pimple. The next route is frequently used as an access route. Up Crack to flake taking care with pro placement. Mike Law (solo) 1980s Cenotaph Corner 8m 4 Start: Slabby corner crack right of SG. It is also where the scramble down access of cenotaph corner is located. Traverse right to the bottom of the obvious ladder then steeply up. Scott Butler.Pimple Buttress This buttress is the most northern part of the cliff at berowra. Trad gear to lower off. Taylor Made 6m 15 Start: right of IFY. Not bad but very short Julian Anderson Ladder of Gloom Area This area of the cliff is quite popular as it has a couple of nice routes and the crag classic ladder of gloom. Ladder of Gloom 12m 19 Start: 10m right of CC. A left hand variant is also possible. Belay on tree back from edge It's For You 10m 18 Start: Marked. Pimple 10m 20 Start: Marked. There a couple of reasonable routes found here. James Holbrook 1980s This Guide was produced by Crag X . Walk up the corner crack. 2Br’s to lower off.

This Guide was produced by Crag X . Up the low angled slab to the obvious ramp (BR). 1 Br and trad gear required. Julian Anderson 1998 C 12m 10 Start: 5m right of MS. Finish just right of LoG. dyno to jug then up short strenuous arête (RB) and move left to 2nd RB on LoG and up. Follow the 4 gold FH’s up the rounded arête. The Mantle Machine 12m 14 Start: 4m right of LoD (just past the low roof with the hole). Not as e asy as it looks. N. Hayden Brotchie. Not worth the effort unless your walking out. Move diagonally left mantling overhangs. Timms 12/09/1993 Medium Strip 10m 20 Start: As for TMM. Stick clip 1st RB.MS SG SC CC LoG LoD Ladder of Death 10m 22 Start: Directly below the LoG.

F (Dingo?) 8m 26 Start: 1m right of E. Stick clip first RB. Mike Law 1980s Alison 12m 25 Start: 1m right of 3DW.a lot of it looks pretty friable.Soap Cave The soap cave is the large orange cave about 50m along from Ladder of Gloom. Sumo 18m 23 Start: on wall left of soap crack. Heads up soap for a couple of metres. Giles Bradbury 1980s D (Project) 12m 2 8? Start: As for S. black and orange wall with a number of popular routes on it. 4 RB’s. Very juggy and can be done in the rain. 4 RB’s in total to lower off. Steeply up chips past 3 BR’s and RB to double RB lower off. then breaks out right across the main roof. 3D Wimp Out 12m 21 Start: The right arête of the Soap Cave. Luv Handles 12m 20 Start: 2m right of F. Undercut start. The routes on this wall have iron stone edges that makes for great crimpy climbing. Unfortunately it suffers from run off after rain so some routes may need a brush every once in a while. 5 RB’s to chain lower off (above LH). Lloyd Wishart 29/07/1997 Soap 15m 23 Start: The overhanging corner crack on the left edge of the cave. Take care. Unknown 2001 E LH F The Blackboard Located just right of the soap cave the backboard is a nice vertical. as some of the falls could be nasty. James Holbrook. short arête to ledge then wall above. This Guide was produced by Crag X . Steep crack past jugs then out the roof crack and up. Up to Scoop. E (Dingo?) 8m 24 Start: 2m right of S. Steeply up chips past 4 RB’s to chain lower off as for LH. It stays dry in the rain but the routes are fairly average. Take care with the rock . Steep moves past 5 RB’s to chain lower off. then traverse left along the lip of the roof past 7 more RB’s to a double RB lower off at the end of the roof. Not a pleasant route and can be very greasy. then thin wall above.

Harry Wilson 1980s Samantha 10m 20 Start: 2m right of PS. Hard start. Excellent wall climbing and not too hard for the grade. Ridiculously hard start. Mantle on jug then thin and sharp face climbing. often dirty with marginal trad gear. A good beginners route with good protection and easily toproped. 3m right of G. Eccles 7m 20 Start: Just right of DC. No pro.TRM A 3DW G YHD DC 6m 22 Start: starts on elevated platform. Up Alison to scoop then traverse right to jug on lip and up crimpy headwall. Direct through overlap goes at 18 but is a tad run out. Just right of elevated platform. Scott Butler. Mike Law 1980s Gidget / Verdon 15m 22 Start: 8m right of BC. This climb is 24 if your good at crimpy faces or 25 if its not your usual style. James Holbrook 1980s JHTB 8m 20 Start: Right of E. Very popular. Straight up past two RB’s to lower off. Straying right towards Eccles only scores 19. below V chimney. then cams to lower off (shared with DC). L under overlap. James Holbrook 1980s This Guide was produced by Crag X . Thin face past 2 very rusty BR’s. YH The Red Menace 15m 24 Start: As for Alison. Stephen Eccleshall. Trend right past 3 spaced RBs on decreasing holds to lower off. 3 RB’s to lower off. Sharp and thin past 4 BR’s. below flake. Bill Collins 10m 24 Start: Marked. Up on crimps past 2 RB’s to the lower off above DC. Extremely thin climbing straight up far right side of the wall. Delicate start. Palm Sunday 12m 21 Start: 1m right of YH. trending R to top. Mike Law 1980s Butter Knives 12m 28 Start: 4m right of GV. Craig Martin. Stephen Hawkshaw 21//04 Gash 12m 16 Start: 3m right of A. 4 RB’s to lower off. Unpleasant V chimney. Marked. then up flake and veer right at 3rd RB to top. An easier version of Alison without any chips! 5 RB’s to lower off. Yesterday's Heroes 12m 17 Start: Marked. A better variant veers left along obvious line at the 3rd RB past another 2 RB’s to a double RB lower off. Scott Butler. Looks improbable Mike Law 1980s Marsala 8m 12 Start: The corner crack at the right hand end of the Blackboard.

Up steep prow past 2 BRs and FH’s. One old bolt hole down low. James Holbrook 1980s J (Ancient open project) 12m ?? Start: 3m right of LL.Glamorpus Area A great orange cave with some nice harder climbs. Good feature and climbing. Julian's Finest Hour 6m 15 Start: 5m right of G. Very hard start mantle then up the overhanging juggy arête moving left at top to chain. G 6m ?? Start: Left of cave on small poxy wall. I 15m 20 Start: 1m Left of LL Up obvious arête feature past 4 FH’s. Julian Anderson 1990s H 8m 22 Start: Up and right of JFH. Up the dirty black wall with dubious natural pro. Great climbing! 5RBs Are You My Mother? 12m 25 Star t: 4m right of G. A bit sandy but will clean up with traffic. 3 RB’s to double RB lower off. Right and up (cams). corner (3 BR’s). Lower of single carrot with shackle. Up corner. BRs. Marked. Steep start. Glamorpus Wall Proper Scones of Doom 12m 23 Start: Far left of cave. Geoffrey Heath. Lentil Lollipops 12m 9 Start: Marked. Need rebolting! Glamorpus 15m 24 Start: Below central hanging arête. Up bulging wall. and then up the unpleasant vegetated chimney. Steeply up past 4 RBs moving left through roof to a double bolt belay Omnopox 12m 24 Start: 3 m right of SoD. left to chain lower off. A couple of the routes have very old bolts so take care when using them. left at roof. Needs rebolting! Green Eggs and Ham 12m 25 Start: 2m right of AYMM. Straight up face on very slick rock. Height dependant grade. SoD O I G AYMM This Guide was produced by Crag X . and one manky BR up higher.

Scott Butler. Follow flake up and left. arête. Up pocketed wall to thin top section. 4 RBs in total. On winter weekends this part of the crag can become particularly busy. Fox / Sox / Pox 12m 18 Start: 2m right of C. The pick of the bunch is looks poxable which is a great tick at the grade. N F/S/P C SE IGMC LP MF MFDS Scott's Edge 15m 22 Start: Left arête of Bullet Hole Wall. passing 3 BRs. Scott Butler 1980s Broken Candy 11m 20 Start: As for MF. then pocketed wall past 2 rebar staples (used due to poor rock quality) and 2 RBs to a chain lower off. Sustained pockets past crappy bolts to chain lower off. then up orange wall passing 5 RBs to lower off. James Holbrook 1980s This Guide was produced by Crag X . Roof. then up wall to chain lower off. Great crux moves and the head wall has some interesting pockets! Comausminpab 12m 18 Start: Marked. Up and right past 2 BRs and cam breaks. James Holbrook. Great. Run out from 1st to 2nd Bolt. Thin crux past 3rd RB Looks Poxab le 12m 21 Start: 1m right of N. Direct start has no pro and is 21. Roof then pocketed wall passing a couple of bolts (poor pro up high). Needs lower offs IGMC 12m 21 Start: Between C and FSP. The classic of the crag! Scott Butler. 2m right of SE. The start of this route is deteriorating due to the large amounts of repeats it gets. Popular. Roof. The rock here is very soft and wear is becoming obvious on the more popular routes. Up the wall. Very popular. 4 RBs to cold shut (!) and RB lower off. Needs lower offs. James Holbrook 1980s Mental Fatigue 11m 18 Start: At prominent flake 2m right of LP. Take a big cam. Natasha 12m 22 Start: 3m right of FSP. 2nd clip has ground fall potential.Bullet Hole Wall The Bullet hole wall is a highly pocketed wall that features a number of good routes.

James Holbrook. Easy up the cracks then a huge reach (crux) to horizontal break. head right (RB). James Holbrook. Lower off added. Up PAF to right leading flake. Scott Butler 1980s Positive Ape Factor 10m 22 Start: Below obvious orange corner. Bouldery start (RB) then big crux moves past 2nd RB to break. Scott Butler 1980s Positive Ape Factor (Variant Finish) 10m 21 Start: As for PAF.Positive Ape Factor Area This area has a couple of great routes the orange wall is a standout feature at Berowra. below cracks. Giles Bradbury 1980s K (Ancient open project) 10m ?? Start: 2m right of PAF. Only worth 20 if you veer left at 2nd RB. Boulder steep start then up seam just right of arête. Greg Christie 1980s WC 24 PAF PAF VF K PAF L DG KC This Guide was produced by Crag X . Scott Butler 1980s 24 12m 21 Start: 3m left of the corner. 2m right of K. with 2 New BRs to lower off. 2 BRs L (Ancient open project) 10m ?? Start: 2m right of J. 1 ancient BR. James Holbrook 1980s Kenneth's Climb 10m 14 Start: 2m right of DG. Out flake. Who Cares 12m 19/20 Start: Left arête of nice orange wall. Daily Grind 10m 25 Start: Marked. Technical and runout. Trad gear. James Holbrook. Steep start to pleasant slabby cracks great for beginner s. At the cave. If only it had some more holds on it. Joins WC at top. Mike Law. Take care with pro.

Straying right near the top only scores a 16. Michael ? 1980s Boundary Rider 10m 19 Start: 1m right of WT. Wall past breaks (often sandy) to thin crack. Julian Anderson. Straight up past RB and 3 BRs to new lower off. James Holbrook 1980s WT BR Wall Thing 12m 18 Start: 2m right of FT. The southern access comes down here. Rohan Reynolds. Flake Thing 12m 21 Start: 5m right of KC.Wall Thing Wall A small wall at the far right end of the crag. 4 RBs to lower off. Pro looks minimal. Right side of arête (cams). Jonas Kuganus 07/1998 FT This Guide was produced by Crag X . Scott Butler.

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