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Creative works of
depicting a former era
A must visit to escape
those rainy days
N°85 - complimentary copy
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
A word of welcome
Arrival & Getting Around
Ready for a shopping spree
Zagreb Basics 10
All the things you need to know about Zagreb
The true meaning of “Do not disturb”
Culture & Events
Let’s fill up that social calendar of yours
Lunch or dinner, you pick
Keep tradition with cuisine
Coffee & Cakes
What a pleasure
Services you just may need
Snap, camera, action
We unravel the A to Z of travel
List of Small Features
Merging of Gastronomy, Architecture & Art
City Centre Shopping
Maps & Index
City Centre Map
Bop ‘till you drop
ZADAR TOURIST BOARD
Pin Up Girls, Vintage Zagreb Festival Archives
“Are you one who fancies fashion, music, film, dance and even the interiors of the 1920s, 30s, 40s, 50s or 60s? Than see page 58.
PHONE: +385 23 316 166 / MAIL: INFO@ZADAR.TRAVEL / WEB: WWW.ZADAR.TRAVEL
Autumn is well and truly upon us and so are the reddish
and brownish leaves which cover city parks as kids rattle,
kick and throw bundles and bundles of leaves in the air.
And don’t forget, this time of year offers many reasons to
head out before the major cold zips in. To enrich your
calendar, do see the exhibitions, concerts, special events...
and a series of jazz concerts to make you jazzily jovial. In
this issue you can expect an interesting story about street
art with interviews by leading street art artists whose
works are changing vistas of rundown buildings and in
some way communicate more than just a picture to passers-by. Also, for all lovers of the past, ‘Vintage’ is the key
adjective in this edition with a tribute to Vintage Zagreb
and the festival with the same name, not to mention the
Festival of Silent Film that you can visit this Autumn. We
will also look at other places in Zagreb that exude a vintage vibe and take you to a different time. So as you venture out, discover some of the city’s hidden treasures and
btw, feel free to send us any
feedback on our IYP Guide
so that we can make it even
Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb
Company Office & Accounts
Zagreb In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia
Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24
Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.
Printed by Kerschoffset d.o.o., published 4 times per year
Maps Events Restaurants
Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing
Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps
copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts
for the purpose of review, without written permission from the
publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket
is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4,
Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Zagreb In Your Pocket
is not responsible for any information which might change after
publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.
Creative works of
depicting a former era
“Tribe” a mural by Artez, at
Zagreb’s Student Centre. More
about Zagreb’s street art and
the artists responisble on
Editor Višnja Arambašić
Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić,
Jonathan Bousfield, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Nikola
Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac
Assistant Editor Blanka Valić
Community Manager Eli Gajinov
Design Bojan - Haron Markičević
Photography Zagreb In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated
Cover © Višnja Aramabšić, “Tribe” a mural by Artez
Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević
Support Sales Blanka Valić, Eli Gajinov, Kristina Štimac
A must visit to escape
those rainy days
N°85 - complimentary copy
6 Zagreb In Your Pocket
In Your Pocket, the world‘s leading publisher of locally-produced city guides since 1992, recently launched a brand new
smartphone app: In Your Pocket City
Essentials. Featuring only hand-picked
venues and sights alongside essential
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- is free, and works offline. Go to iyp.me/
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Arrival & Getting Around
Arrival & Getting Around
ZAGREB INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
(MEĐUNARODNA ZRAČNA LUKA ZAGREB
QRudolfa Fizira 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 22 22, www.zagrebairport.hr.
The bus and train stations are not directly in close proximity
to one another but are within a 10 minute easy walk or a
2-4 minute drive by car.
View from the Zagreb 360° - Zagreb eye observation deck,
Photo by Višnja Arambašić
Zagreb International Airport is located 17km out of town.
Its small size makes the airport easily to get around; both
domestic and international arrival and departure areas are
located on the ground floor. Changing currency: directly
outside international arrivals, there is a Zagrebačka banka
office complete with a currency exchange (Open 08:00 21:00) and ATM. In the departures hall there is an Information Centre (tel. 060 32 03 20), which is open 24 hours.
Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from
the post office have a baby changing room, but do note
that the ones on the top floor are less crowded. Getting to
Town: Pleso prijevoz (www.plesoprijevoz.hr) runs a bus
service from Zagreb International Airport to the Zagreb Bus
Station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves according to
flight schedules from outside the international arrivals and
costs 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more
cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals.
Due to the specific location of the Zagreb International Airport, taxi rates can differ significantly. Therefore, we recommend you pre-book online prior to your arrival. Simply log
onto www.ekotaxi.hr and your taxi ride will be waiting for
you with prices and comfort second to none. If you wish to
go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10
local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from.
8 Zagreb In Your Pocket
The ground floor of the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni
kolodvor) is home to a series of shops where anything from
bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is
home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun) and chapel. Window N°3, the Information centre
(Open 00:00 - 24:00), usually is staffed by someone with at
least a minor command of English. Changing currency:
ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket
office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića.
There is a currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 21:30, Sun 07:00 - 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage:
Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located
up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/
hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you’ll be
paying 10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase
to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town:
Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when
your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left
and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a
tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up
tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg
bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about
50kn to get to the centre. Getting around Town: Zagreb
is well connected with buses which are linked to all major
cities in Croatia. In addition, local lines run regularly between
Zagreb County and its surrounding area. Ticket prices in one
direction within a radius of 50 kilometres from the countries
capital range from 26-77kn.
MAIN BUS STATION (AUTOBUSNI KOLODVOR)
QE‑4, Avenija M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 060 31 33 33,
Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not very userfriendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into
the city. Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk
through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left
corner. A currency exchange is located in the international ticket5 060
ing area as is another ATM. The Information office (Tel.
33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between the main
hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit
tracks). Across from the Information window is a nifty tourist
information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it ever worked. The
left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are available 24 hours
and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each
piece of luggage costs 15 - 25kn/per day. Getting to Town:
Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa
Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a
ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes
and will cost around 30kn. Getting around Town: Railroads
are connected with almost all major cities in Croatia, train rides
within and around the Zagreb area are faster and less expensive than other means of transport. There are also seasonal discounts and organised day trips where guests can see quite a
lot in little time. If you would like to tour around the surrounding area by bike, prices depend on the distance and vary from
10-35kn. And for all you pet lovers, bring your very best friend
along but do know that you must have a mandatory veterinary booklet, small dogs are free of charge if kept in your lap or
in a basket: Larger dogs must wear a muzzle and are charged
at 50% of the standard price for tickets.
MAIN TRAIN STATION (GLAVNI KOLODVOR)
QC‑4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44,
TRAMS & BUSES
Getting around town is made all the much easier via the
city’s Tram and Bus Systems, both of which can take
TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE
Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb Airport, next to the international arrivals area,
at the Main Bus Station, at the Main Train Station and
Lotršćak Tower.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića5 11,
tel. (+385-) 0800 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, www.
zagreb-touristinfo.hr. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00
- 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
ZAGREB COUNTY TOURIST BOARD
QC‑3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65,
www.tzzz.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Photo by Višnja Arambašić
Arrival & Getting Around
Arrival & Getting Around
from A to Z. Tramwise, the city has 15 tram lines that run
from 04:00 - 24:00; the night trams (4 lines) run from 24:00
- 04:00. In terms of buses, a list of departure times can
be found at all bus stops marked by the blue signs
with a bus picture. The biggest bus stop is just south
of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall
passage. There are 133 daily bus lines and 4 nightlines
which link Zagreb, Sesvete, Velika Gorica and Zaprešić.
The largest and most known tram and bus stations are
positioned at Črnomerec, Dubec, Glavni kolodvor, and
Savski most. Tickets cost 10kn for daily transport and
15kn for night rides (00:00 - 04:00), each is valid for 90
minutes, while daily tickets are 30kn. Tickets are available from the driver on buses, at kiosks or ZET stores.
Children under six ride free. Please validate your ticket
once you board: an unvalidated ticket is as good as no
ticket at all, and getting caught without one is an embarrassing and costly experience, with inspectors operating on a random schedule. For detailed schedules
and route plans of ZET buses and trams, simply visit
www.zet.hr/default.aspx?id=290Qtel. (+385-) 0800 20
00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01, www.zet.hr.
THE SLJEME BUS LINE
The Sljeme line numbered 140 takes off from Mihaljevac
Stop and goes to the Tomislav’s dom Stop, six times a
day throughout the week, and every hour on weekends
between 06:20 - 21:50.Qwww.zet.hr/userdocsimages/
surroundings are filled with alternative bicycle routes
that range in various levels of degree as well as different types of surface. For all other information and maps,
visit the Zagreb Tourist Association and www.pedala.
Rent-a-car offices are located at airports and within the
city’s large hotels (e.g., Sheraton, Panorama, Westin,...)
or within their immediate vicinity. Prices per day for an
economy or compact car class ranges from 250 to 550
kn. In order to rent a four wheeled vehicle, you need to
have a credit card and be 18 years old (by law). If a problem occurs on the road, first call your rent-a-car contact
number, then the HAK roadside assistance service at
STREET PARKING/SMS PARKING
There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by
signs on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 6kn/h with
a maximum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is
3kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and
zone 3 (green) is 1.5kn/h. Purchase your ticket at the
ticket machine box which is beside the parking sign
and make sure you display it on your dashboard, or use
your mobile to text message your registration number
(no gaps) to the number shown (including the international code if you’re using a foreign mobile (+385)
700101 (zone 1), 700102 (zone 2), 700103 (zone 3). Your
payment is confirmed when you receive a return text
message from the appropriate authorities. As a timely
service, you’ll receive a text message reminding you
to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or
to move your car. In case you don’t pay for your parking spot or over-run your allotted time, you’ll be left a
ticket valid for 24 hours from the moment the beadyeyed inspector spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour
ticket costs 100, 60 or 20kn respectively according to
the zone, and can be paid in any post office.
QVodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-) 14 14/(+385-) 099 456 04
RADIO TAKSI ZAGREB
QD‑6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 060 80 08 00/
(+385-) 17 17, www.radio-taksi-zagreb.hr.
Qtel. (+385-) 12 12/(+385-) 060 71 00, www.taxicammeo.hr.
20% off on first ride
ordered through app
Why not swap that four-wheeler for a two-wheeler? In
what is becoming somewhat of a common trend, more
and more locals have thought wisely and have begun to
choose the ecological route to town. Even though bike
routes haven’t fully been mapped, roads are marked
for cyclists with either red paint or are separated from
the main road by yellow and white lines. Markings are
very visible and clear to both bike riders and car drivers. If you would like to rent a bike (daily rental will cost
100kn), visit any of the following www.zagrebbybike.
com, www.nextbike.hr, www.bike.com.hr. For those
seeking a recreational ride, then Maksimir, Bundek and
Jarun are the ideal locations. True cycling enthusiasts
who wish to be challenged should know that the city
10 Zagreb In Your Pocket
This QR code contains the website address,
http://www.inyourpocket.com/croatia/zagreb for Zagreb In Your Pocket: and a user
having a camera phone equipped with
the correct reader software can scan
this image of the QR Code causing the
phone’s browser to launch and redirect to the programmed
URL. Save the image and print it out any way you want.
Photo by Marša Gajinov
There are no longer custom limits between member
states of the EU or tax return. For other non-member
states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.
You ‘had to go’ forty-five minutes ago...public toilets or WCs
(pronounced ‘vay-say’) are few, as one in the Cesarčeva
Street near the main city square, which is free of charge and
wheelchair-accessible. Your best bet is to find and use one
inside the shopping malls and bigger stores or take a seat
at a café, order yourself a beverage and then hustle through
the appropriate door - gospoda or muški for men, dame
or ženski for women.
Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape
and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a
loooong way to go. At the moment, all car parks have parking
spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted
for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access
with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once
you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets,
footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to
visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation
to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise
and make your arrival as accessible as possible.
All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU
member states need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy
in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia. In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other
cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a
visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing
through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border
without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to
The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the
United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.
WHEN THINGS GO WRONG
Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.
There are plenty of exchange offices around Zagreb, as well
as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a
day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards,
but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash
Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about
tipping, but seeing how you’re a visitor to the country and
all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw
a bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically
round their bill up to the nearest whole number when they
want to tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staff’s efforts seems
like a classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn’t it?
When behind the wheel drivers must always have their
driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.
Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt
and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in
urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/
ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As
they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.
12 Zagreb In Your Pocket
Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zagreb significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should
keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an
emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number (+385) 112 which then transfers you to
police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city
district, in case you were involved in an accident or were
arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In
that case, contact your embassy. The main building for ER
is located in Heinzelova Street 88 (K-3) where everything
necessary will be done or you will be taken to the nearest
hospital if need. In case of an accident call HAK road help
24/7 (+385) 1987.
New Year’s Day
International Workers’ Day
Anti-Fascist Resistance Day
August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day
Feast of the Assumption
All Saints’ Day
Saint Stephen’s Day
Romeo and Juliet, Photo by Marko Ercegović, HNK Archives
Culture & Events
IT’S RAINING WITH CULTURAL EVENTS: EXHIBITIONS,
CONCERTS, SPECIAL EVENTS, FILM FESTIVALS, JAZZ
Culture & Events
Culture & Events
a distinguished classical guitarist and student of the Royal
Academy in London who won first prize at the prestigious
competition Francisco Tarrega. He is joined by the brilliant
young pianist and flutist Ana Dadić.QC‑1, The Golden
Hall of the Croatian Institute of History, Opatička 10.
21.10, 24.10, 26.10 19:30 » GIOACHINO ROSSINI THE BARBER OF SEVILLE
Rossini’s most popular opera delivers amazing performances by Manuela Custer as the spirited Rosina.QB‑3,
Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel.
(+385-1) 488 84 88, www.hnk.hr.
14.11 19:30 » FAUST AND OPERA GALA
Charles Gounod’s ‘Faust’ is the opera which brings together a star studded line up that includes the devoted
Finnish conductor Ville Metvejeff together with the Opera
Orchestra of the Croatian National Theatre in Rijeka. With
rave reviews, commendations also go to mezzo-soprano
Diana Haller and the great Finnish soprano Marjukka Tepponen amongst others.QI‑3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert
Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 11, 200
- 260kn, www.lisinski.hr.
Rudolf Matz, Zagreb City Museum Archives
07.10 - 15.10 » ZAGREB KOM 11 - THE 11TH
ZAGREB INTERNATIONAL CHAMBER MUSIC
Fit for the occasion, the most beautiful halls of the Croatian
Academy of Sciences and Arts will host six thematically
conceived concerts featuring greats from Bach to Mozart
and others. Come and hear exceptional interpretations
performed by world musicians and ensembles that will
amplify music taken from baroque authors to contemporary authors.Q The Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters
HAZU, Trg N. Š. Zrinjskog 11; National Hall Revival Stateroom, Opatička 18; The Glyptotheque, Medvedgradska
22.10 19:30 » THE TOKYO SYMPHONIC
One of Japan’s finest orchestras is set to shine at the Lisinski Hall as its members will be joined by the famous
German violinist Isabelle Faust and English Conductor
Jonathan Nott. The trifecta of artists will perform works
from Beethoven and Shostakovich.QI‑3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612
11 11, 160 - 240kn.
26.10 » SRĐAN BULAT AND ANA DADIĆ - GOLDEN ZAGREB: “SPECIAL GLOW CONCERTS” - AN
EXCLUSIVE CYCLE OF CONCERTS
Two young guns hit the spotlight as they fuse their talents
to create a magical night of acoustic music. Srđan Bulat is
14 Zagreb In Your Pocket
03.12 19:30 » MARINA REBEKA
Undoubtedly one of the leading sopranos of our time,
Latvian born Marina Rebeka is about the grace the Lisinski stage with her repertoire of class epochs from
Mozart to Verdi, and Rossini to Tchaikovsky. She is joined
by the Croatian Radio and Television Symphonic Orchestra.QI‑3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana
Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 11, 200 - 260kn, www.
BALLET & DANCE
11.10 19:30, 14.10 19:30, 19.10 19:30, 22.10 18:00
» SERGEJ SERGEJEVIČ PROKOFJEV - PATRICE
BART: ROMEO AND JULIET
Romeo and Juliet is a ballet by Sergej Sergejevič Prokofjev,
which is based on William Shakespeare’s play Romeo
and Juliet and tells the tragic tale of lovers from Verona.
Prokofjev’s musical interpretation of the play has inspired
many generations of choreographers and directors. In
this presentation of one of the world’s most famous love
stories, the choreography will be directed by Patrice Bart.
QB‑3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15,
tel. (+385-1) 488 84 88, www.hnk.hr.
ROCK & POP CONCERTS
14.10 20:00 » THE BAMBI MOLESTERS
Few Croatian rock bands could truly be said to be masters of their genre. More often than not, local acts end up
sounding like Croatian versions of something done better elsewhere. The one exception to this rule is surf-punk
band The Bambi Molesters, an act so steeped in offbeat
Americana that they frequently do a better job of setting
it to music than the Americans themselves. The Molesters were certainly Croatia’s most internationally exposed
band in the early 2000s, supporting REM on European
tour dates and gaining international distribution for their
albums.QB‑4, Kset, Unska 3, tel. (+385-1) 612 97 58, 50 70kn, www.kset.org.
15.10 » TULUM! HLADNO PIVO, BRKOVI, ŠANK?!
It’s hard’n’heavy, and the third edition of the ‘Tulum’ series of gigs brings together some of the top punk-rock
acts Croatia has to offer on the opening night. Local
legends ‘Hladno Pivo’ headline with their smashing array
of hits as they are supported by punk folk quintet Brkovi
and the punk rock quartet Šank?!. It’s time for moshing
mania!QH‑3, Dom sportova, Trg Krešmira Ćosića 11, tel.
(+385-1) 365 03 33, 70 - 90kn.
21.10, 22.10 20:00 » S.A.R.S.
Founded in 2006, this popular Belgrade group has already
gained an army of followers with their mixture of different musical genres such as reggae, ska, hip hop, and traditional Serbian music.QH‑3, Dom sportova, Trg Krešmira
Ćosića 11, tel. (+385-1) 365 03 33, 90 - 120kn.
22.10, 26.10 » THE 17TH ŽEDNO UHO FESTIVAL
A stalwart of the city scene is ‘Žedno Uho Festival’ which
has always given fans a taste of unbiased music as it has
promoted jazz, rock, folk, electronic music and more.
Organisers have in recent years established side festivals
such as Šibenik’s Terraneo and Super Uho in the coastal
town of Primošten. American indie rock band Explosions
In The Sky kick off the festival and American experimental
rock band Swans conclude it along with Swedish pianist
and singer Anna von Hausswolff.QH‑3, Lauba – The
House for People and Art, Baruna Filipovića 23a, tel.
(+385-1) 630 21 15.
29.10 20:00 » VATRA
Vatra, which means fire, is a Croatian rock band best
known for their hit song, Tremolo, that won them the
Porin, a Croatian music award, in 2012. Don’t miss out on
seeing this burning hot group.QI‑3, Vatroslav Lisinski
Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11
11, 120 - 180kn, www.lisinski.hr.
04.11 » GENERAL WOO
One of Croatia’s well known rap artists is Srđan Ćuk, nicknamed General Woo. He hails from the city of Vukovar
and has been in the music scene since 1999. Ćuk is so
passionate about rap and hip-hop that he hosts his own
radio show and organises festivals. With his die hard
and devoted fans, General Woo will ignite the stage at
Tvornica Kulture this November.QE‑3, Culture Factory,
Šubićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 457 83 89, 30 - 50kn, www.
Ruta Cres, Photo by Igor Njhausler
Culture & Events
Culture & Events
09.11 » JUSTIN BIEBER
Definitely one of the biggest events of the year, Justin
Bieber heads to Arena Zagreb in what will be a night to
remember for all of his devoted’ belieber’ fans. Having performed at sold out shows all over the world, his European
tour begins in Iceland. Get ready for ‘Where are U now’,
‘Sorry’, ‘Baby’ and his multitudes of hits played live with
an entire entourage of dancers and stage performers joining him.QH‑5, Arena Zagreb, Ulica Vice Vukova 8, tel.
(+385-1) 642 09 00.
10.11 » PLACEBO
Two decades have flown by quickly for Placebo and these
English musicians are getting into full swing for their new
tour. With seven studio albums behind them, vocalist
Brian Molko has confessed that the band will play a lot of
their classics, some of which they haven’t touched in years,
and something that will hearten all fans of the band, new
and old.QA‑4, Dražen Petrović Concert Hall, Savska 30,
tel. (+385-1) 484 33 33, 199 - 269kn.
14.11 21:00 » MERCHANDISE
This US post-punk outfit cannot be truly categorised as
their music also includes jazz, dub and hardcore elements.
Their LP ‘After the End’ received excellent reviews in 2014
as has their recent release ‘A Corpse Wired for Sound’
which is the reason for their soon to begin European tour.
QI‑3, Močvara Club, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1)
615 96 67, 55 - 80kn, www.mochvara.hr.
17.11 21:00 » RUSSIAN CIRCLES
Named after a drill exercise in ice-hockey, this American
three-piece instrumental band from Chicago echo the
post-rock genre having played with the likes of Tool, Boris,
and etc. In their return to Zagreb, the gents will be supported by recognised composer and cellist Alison Chesley,
better known as Helen Money.QI‑4, Vintage Industrial
Bar, Savska cesta 160, tel. (+385-1) 619 17 15, 65 - 100kn.
01.06 - 23.10 » MOLECULES THAT
CHANGED THE WORLD
An inspirational insight into the chemistry of all known
molecules, molecules that are changing our lives, culture
and society today! The centrepiece of the exhibition consists of a 3D projection of 25 molecules that have affected
the development of chemistry and science in general.
Scientific, terrific!QA‑4, Technical Museum Nikola Tesla,
Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, www.tehnickimuzej.hr. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.
19.11 21:00 » DETOUR
This critically acclaimed six-member musical group from
Zagreb is famous for their very distinctive electro-acoustic
pop sound that has, throughout the years, earned them
numerous nominations for the prestigious Croatian Porin
Music Awards.QE‑3, Culture Factory, Šubićeva 2, tel.
(+385-1) 457 83 89, 50 - 90kn, www.tvornicakulture.
26.11 » SKYE & ROSS FROM MORCHEEBA
Call it a Morcheeba side-project; band members Skye Edwards and Ross Godfrey have teamed up to further extend
their musical talents. These Brits return to their roots a little
while exploring other genres but fear not, Morcheeba’s
finest hits will still form the bulk of their set list. This will be
their 2nd gig in Croatia this year, and their first in Zagreb.
QE‑3, Culture Factory, Šubićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 457 83
89, 130 - 150kn, www.tvornicakulture.com.
09.12 21:30 » NATALI DIZDAR
One of Croatia’s finest pop singers, Dizdar is known for her
vocal talents having released several chart topping hits in
the space of a decade. With pop-jazz as her forte, Dizdar is
about to embark on a new journey with her very own solo
concert. Accompanied by top musicians and long-time
collaborators, she will present her new single and most
famous songs.QE‑3, Culture Factory, Šubićeva 2, tel.
(+385-1) 457 83 89, 70kn.
Merchandise, Photo by Drew Reynolds
16 Zagreb In Your Pocket
21.04 - 31.12 » SEARCHING FOR SHAKESPEARE IN
In the global project Shakespeare Lives–as organised by
the British Council, the exhibition concept is made of a
variety of items from the permanent exhibition of the museum which through a multimedia Smart Guide in Croatian and English, uses smart phones and Samsung tablets
to encourage visitors to search and detect Shakespeare in
the Mimara Museum. It’s a bit like Pokémon Go, Shakespeare style!QB‑3, The Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina
Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, www.mimara.hr.
Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
07.09 - 26.10 » BACHRACH & KRIŠTOFIĆ - DESIGN
Celebrating a thirty-five year working relationship between a photographer and a designer; this tandem has
worked in fields such as royalty, the record industry, and
the history of design, pop culture and popular art. See
photos and cover art for recordings produced by Jugoton
and Croatia Records, as well as posters, books, catalogues,
fanzines, and the visual identity for various cultural projects, exhibitions, art and theatre performances.QB‑3, Arts
and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1)
488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00
- 14:00. Closed Mon.
08.09 - 21.10 » KRISTINA LEKO HOW THE PEOPLE LIVE?
An interdisciplinary art project based on the book ‘How
the people live?’ by Rudolf Bičanić, 1936. The author of the
exhibit, Kristina Leko, brings to life the book and its characters, eight ordinary Croatian families living in passive and
fairly poor localities. The museum is transferred to a real
life village portraying each person, the floor plan of each
household, the building of one home in its entirety, original documentation and an emphasis on the economic
and social dependence of the times, and its psychological
effect. A travel back to a time long gone…QJ‑4, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1)
27 00, www.msu.hr. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00
- 20:00. Closed Mon.
19.09 - 18.12 » RUDOLF MATZ GREAT OPUS OF JOY
On the occasion of the 115th anniversary of his birth, we
pay tribute to Rudolf Matz and his wife Margita, a legendary music couple whose apartment at Mesnička Street 15
became a meeting place for people in music and cultural
circles. The exhibition, conceived as a monograph presents his versatile artistic personality and love for music.
QC‑1, Zagreb City Museum, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1)
485 13 61, www.mgz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon.
20.09 - 08.01 » ALBERTO GIACOMETTI: SCULPTURE, DRAWINGS, LITHOGRAPHS - PORTRETS
OF THE PRESENT
In the series ‘The greatest sculptors of the 20th century’,
the next virtuoso on the agenda is Alberto Giacometti. Visfacebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket
itors to the Art Pavilion will have the unique opportunity in
seeing around twenty drawings, as many lithographs and
sculptures borrowed from the French Foundation ‘Maeght’. His acclaimed works, ‘Thin People’, ‘Women in Venice’ and ‘The Man Who Walks’ will all be on show.QC‑3,
Art Pavilion, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10
70, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri
11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.
22.09 - 20.10 » MUNIR VEJZOVIĆ - EMBRACE OF
EROTICISM AND PLASTIC
This monographic exhibition by painter Munir Vejzović exposes eighty of his paintings and sculptures created over
the last ten years. This extremely respectable cycle of new
paintings includes large oil paintings in which the artist
explores the erotic sense of physicality in the contemporary postmodern multitude of their appearances.QC‑3,
Modern Gallery, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604
10 40, www.moderna-galerija.hr. Open 11:00 - 19:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon.
26.09 - 11.12 » THE TREASURE OF THE
See the most precious artefacts from the National Archaeological Museum in Warsaw used in the early Middle Ages.
The exhibition will display rings, necklaces, pendants, earrings, hair ornaments, bracelets, glass ornaments, belt buckles and crosses. A special place is intended for jewellery from
the beautiful hoard - mid 11th century and found in Borucin,
central Poland.QC‑2, Archaeological Museum in Zagreb,
Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 30 00,
www.amz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun
10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon.
27.09 - 23.10 » THE BEAUTY OF A FAKE SHINE
In what is deemed as criminal, we now have an exhibition
of art; counterfeit art! The Police Museum has opened its
doors and presents fifty-three paintings and four sculptures by some of our most astute artists including Dušan
Džamonja, Edo Murtić, Ljubo Ivančić and others.
See oil paintings and prints analysed by art historians, artists, and academic critics, works that have been tested in
forensic labs for true authenticity.QI‑3, The Headquarters
of the Ministry of the Interior, Savska cesta 39, www.
Culture & Events
Culture & Events
16.10 » STEREOTIP
The popular music project Stereotip returns for the
fifth time and will be held on a Sunday afternoon,
starting at 16:00 o’clock. The Zagreb-Berlin duo of
famous producers and DJs -Felvera and Dixon organise the event and turn various city venues into dance
floors. Electronic tears are bound to be coming your
way.QB‑3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala
17.10 - 31.12 » MEŠTART - TANJA RAVLIĆ, ARRIVAL
In this exhibition Tanja Ravlić thematises the arrival at
the wellspring, as well as her attitude to the spaces that
formed her. With her works, Tanja Ravlić, only in places,
but entirely consistently, overlaps with given themes of
Meštrović. It is with the very free connections that she
emphasises the essentiality of the cyclical renewal of a
phase of life and creativity. Meštrović, more than most
artists or individuals, accepted the challenges and risks of
the tumultuous periods in history and his personal life,
setting an indelible stamp on them with his inexhaustible artistry.QB‑1, Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović
Museums, Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, www.
mestrovic.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 14:00. Closed Mon.
09.11 - 23.11 » ZAGREB SALON - EXHIBITION OF
PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOTOCLUB ZAGREB
Photo Club Zagreb primarily organises the Zagreb Salon,
an international exhibition of photography that began
tradition in 1910. The exhibition is convened every two
years with 300 - 400 mostly amateur photographers from
different countries around the world participating. Now
it’s time to see over hundred photographs mostly by winning authors.QB‑3, The Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina
Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, www.mimara.hr.
Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
13.10 - 16.10 » THE 6TH GANZ NEW FESTIVAL THE RAGING FESTIVAL
This year’s topic is ‘rage’, and what we can do to either enrage rage, or tame it. In what is an extraordinary festival;
national and international performers, musicians and artists offer free theatre and dance performances, plays, art
installations, workshops and uncompromising DJ dance
nights. See how to flush out negative emotions, or attend
a screaming metal yoga workshop... And that’s just the
beginning!QB‑4, Student’s Centre, Savska cesta 25, tel.
(+385-1) 459 35 55, ganznovi.sczg.hr.
18 Zagreb In Your Pocket
11.11 20:00 » BRIT FLOYD
Progressive rock tribute masters to the British icons
Pink Floyd continue their world tour as they perform the very best songs that Pink Floyd has to offer. Enter a journey through 50 years of music history
including hits from albums like ‘The Dark Side of the
Moon’, ‘Wish You Were Here’, ‘Animals’, ‘The Wall’ and
more.QI‑4, Boćarski dom Zrinjevac, Prisavlje 2, 75
18.11 20:00 » QUEEN SHOW - THE SHOW MUST
GO ON - THE BOHEMIANS
In the year and month in which we celebrate twentyfive years since the death of Freddie Mercury, tribute
act ‘Queen Show’ will put on a bombastic audiovisual performance playing many of their chart topping masterpieces. The Polish Symphony Orchestra
will also join them on stage adding a classical element to the show. Who will rock you? Queen will rock
you!QI‑4, Boćarski dom Zrinjevac, Prisavlje 2, 100
19.11 » EUROPEAN THEATRE NIGHT
One evening in the year dedicated to the dramatic and
performing arts, European Theatre Night is celebrated
in most major Croatian Theatres. It’s night when theatres come alive with the buzz of meetings, conversation and new ideas both among theatre professionals
and the audience. Exchange programmes are held,
familiarising the Croatian public with the treats that
European theatre hold and promoting the Croatian
dramatic arts abroad.Qwww.noc-kazalista.com.
26.11 - 08.01 » ADVENT IN ZAGREB
The beginning of Advent sees a transformation of the
town with Christmas lights glowing, Christmas stands
encompassing authentic souvenirs, mauled wine,
sausages and traditional fritule (hot like doughnut
balls seasoned with icing sugar and other toppings).
02.12 » THE 12TH POSITIVE CONCERT
The name says it all; purely positive is the msg here
with strong regional performers (Bajaga & Instruktori,
Josipa Lisac, Rundek Cargo Trio & Luce). The event
traditionally commemorates World AIDS Day and happens to be one of the regarded events at this time of
year.QH‑3, Dom sportova, Trg Krešmira Ćosića 11,
70 - 90kn.
01.01 - 31.12 » SUBTITLED TUESDAY
Every Tuesday, screenings at Cinema Europa’s main hall
have English and Croatian subtitles side by side. This
is a chance for our growing international audience in
the unique setting of Zagreb’s 90-year-old cinema on
Varšavska 3, to see our non-English-speaking regular releases on the big screen.QB‑2, Europa Cinema,
Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 482 90 45, www.kinoeuropa.
hr. Every Tuesday.
11.10 - 17.10 » 23RD WEEK OF CZECH FILM
You can’t ignore tradition with the 23rd edition of
Czech Film opening at the Europa Cinema as it is well
known that the love between the home audience and
Cinematography is a growing affair. This year screenings include six highly selected achievements of recent
Czech cinema, including the Czech candidate for the
Oscars, ‘Home Care’ by Slávek Horák.QB‑2, Europa
Cinema, Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 482 90 45, www.
12.11 - 20.11 » THE 14TH ZAGREB FILM FESTIVAL
Film fans fire up as for the fourteenth consecutive
year, ZFF brings the freshest and most interesting
debutant amateur films to the screen. Carefully selected films from the most diverse achievements
of European and world cinema appear; don’t forget
that there will be plenty of side programs for additional fun.Q Europa Cinema, Varšavska 3; Tuškanac
Cinema, Tuškanac 1; Contemporary Art Museum,
Avenija Dubrovnik 17 and other locations, www.
Atrium of Arts and Crafts Museum, Stereotip Archives
Josipa Lisac, The Positive Concert Archives
JAZZ & BLUES
20.10 - 22.10 » JAZZ.HR/AUTUMN
A mega line up over 3 days which includes none other
than Justin Kauflin and his trio, the jazz piano gem
was voted ‘Jazz Artist of the Year’ in VEER Magazine
and now works along the legendary Quincy Jones.
Vesna Pisarović is a Croatian pop and jazz singer with
a forte for jazz jive, and finally the Pawel Kaczmarczyk Audiofeeling Trio perform considering that their
album ‘Complexity in Simplicity’ was voted as album
of the year by many Jazz forum readers.QB‑3, Blagoje
Bersa Concert Hall, Academy of Music, University of
Zagreb, Trg maršala Tita 12, www.jazz.hr.
08.11 » TAMARA OBROVAC TRANSHISTRIA
Watching Tamara and her band perform is an experience
in itself as one is transported into a whirlwind of improvisation and spontaneity. This international ensemble plays
contemporary jazz with elements of Istrian and Mediterranean music, thus creating a unique artistic expression.
QC‑2, Zagreb Youth Theatre, Teslina 7, 90 - 110kn,
Bachrach and Krištofić - Mario Krištofić, Gojko Tomljanović,
Massimo, Photo by Vedran Benović
24.11 » ŠIMUN MATIŠIĆ & MATIJA DEDIĆ GOLDEN ZAGREB: “SPECIAL GLOW CONCERTS”
- AN EXCLUSIVE CYCLE OF CONCERTS
Talented young vibraphonist Šimun Matišić is following in the footsteps of the legendary Boško Petrović and
performs in a duo with the one and only Matija Dedić, a
renowned Croatian jazz pianist. This dynamic duo ought
to dazzle with their eloquent musicianship fused into one.
QC‑1, The Golden Hall of the Croatian Institute of History, Opatička 10.
Turn a corner in Zagreb and you’re increasingly likely to
come face to face with a piece of amazing street art that
makes you stop and catch your breath with admiration.
Transporting you for a moment out of your daily routine, it
suddenly makes you think or makes you laugh.
What is street art? The first association is with graffiti. But
as the artists we’ll meet here show, this is very far from
the mindless, destructive scrawls many people think of
when they hear the word “graffiti”. Street artists, in the
true sense can create powerful images that challenge our
perceptions, make us think and astonish with their sheer
Street artists have created a stir worldwide with provoking works that question political and social injustice. Street
art is fusing with and inspiring mainstream art forms and
these days work by street artists can come with a high
price tag. These are artists who work in diverse media,
who show in galleries and across borders, sharing ideas
and collaborating on projects with artists from around the
Zagreb has had a street art scene since the 1980s starting
with a big project for the Universiade in 1987 when the
long mural alongside the railway tracks on Branimirova
street was first painted. It was re-painted in 1999 to celebrate the Day Against Drug Abuse, and again in 2010 when
the mural became a part of Zagreb’s Museum of Street Art,
which includes works scattered around the Novi Zagreb
neighbourhoods of Siget, Dugave and Utrine. The project
is continuously growing to encompass and enliven other
parts of the city.
Excellent street art contributes to Zagreb as an exciting
home for art and culture and is proof of the unique urban
identity, energy and individualism of the city.
So let’s meet some of the magicians of paint and brush
whom are contributing to brightening up Zagreb.
“Oh, Barbie” by Lonac, Photo by Višnja Arambašić
EXCELLENT STREET ART CONTRIBUTES TO ZAGREB AS AN
EXCITING HOME FOR ART AND CULTURE AND IS PROOF OF
THE UNIQUE URBAN IDENTITY, ENERGY AND INDIVIDUALISM
OF THE CITY.
Introduce yourself! How would you define yourself?
As an artist? Street artist? Something else?
Artez: My name’s Artez, I have a degree in architecture, but
I’m a street artist by profession and muralist from Belgrade.
Bare: I’d define myself as someone who does what he
loves, but also as an artist, street artist, organizer, etc. I like
being around people and working on the street because
that’s how the whole story begins and it’s accessible to
Dominik: I would present myself as an illustrator and
painter; while I’m just getting into street art, I’ve worked on
four murals and only one of them independently.
Modul: I began my career as a graffiti artist, then spent
some time as a sign painter, then doing calligraphy, street
art, it’s all there! :D
Stipan: Hi! I’m Stipan Tadić, painter, illustrator, muralist
and draughtsman from Zagreb. I finished my studies at the
Academy of Fine Arts in Zagreb in 2011, and since then I’ve
been working here and there as an independent artist.
Where does your tag name come from?
Artez: My name comes from the time when I was tagging
walls illegally and I needed to hide my identity. That need
has been lost over time but the combination of letters I
found interesting from back then have remained.
Bare: I got it from my mom, hahaha!
Dominik: It’s from my mom and dad, although my grandpa wanted to call me Grga, which would have been awesome! :D But Stipan called me Domingo about seven years
ago and so that’s what my friends call me now.
Stipan: It’s from the Dalmatian hinterland!
How did it all begin, and how is it today?
Artez: It all began with a passion for drawing and it’s continued to this day. I often changed my styles and fields of
interest, but the love of interacting with public spaces over
the years has remained. I think the biggest change in my
city has been to do with the dimensions of the drawing
space - the older I get, the bigger the walls get.
Bare: It started back in school writing on desks and notebooks. The first spray paint can I picked up was in the
seventh grade and I started doing graffiti, and scribbling
everywhere. Today I’m completely against it because I live
off of my work, and I think there are other ways of expressing yourself than scribbling and destroying property. Persistence is one of the most important things for this job.
Dominik: In elementary school I realized that I wasn’t
interested in school and discovered that I was going to
do something creative ... I even wanted to be a chef for a
while! I started with tables and eventually built up some
experience, techniques, ideas, and nature took its course.
Modul: When I started there wasn’t much in terms of material, and if there was it was expensive and of poor quality.
So I started to mix my own water-based sprays that would
be quickly washed away by the rain. Today the situation
is such that everything’s available and in any colour your
Stipan: I don’t know what you mean by “all”. But I think I
started to draw when I was three or four years-old and I
haven’t stopped. Everything has stayed mostly the same
except for new techniques that I started to use, such as
murals, oil on canvas...
What’s the first thing you do in the morning?
Artez: Like all millennials, the first thing I check is Instagram so I can be up to date with current events from the
world of street art. The rest of the morning depends on
what city I’m in and the kind of project I’m currently working on.
Bare: I have a large collection of records, so I start my
morning off with music; then I do everything else.
Dominik: First I drink a glass of water; sometimes I add a
spoonful of honey. Or I drink a smoothie - I like that more
Stipan: I make and drink kefir.
In all forms of art, inspiration is crucial. What inspires
“Digital Love Story” by Stipan Tadić, Photo by Igor Nobilo for Konzum Klik
Artez: I draw inspiration mostly from the location and environment in which the mural will be. Based on this, I create the composition and colour palette. The themes present on the wall very often come from the environment,
but also from characters, and often emotional moments
that life brings. Often what I draw on the wall is not something that I’m initially able to clearly define, but it eventually becomes clear as to why I drew it at that time.
Bare: Life stories, music, something that I have experienced, something I love, something that interests me.
Since Miro and I often work together, and now that we’ve
been involving Dominik, we inspire each other.
Dominik: Other people’s work has a significant impact
on what I do. I like to talk about the creative process and
generally about painting, illustration, or any kind of expression. For the most part, I want my work and drawings
to tell a story.
Modul: Everyday life inspires me. One day you might be
sad, but produce the best work possible; while another
day you’re so happy you can’t even get started.
Stipan: I’m inspired by other artists - but most of all I’m
driven by the fear of homelessness!
Tell us something about your art, does it include symbolisms, messages or repeated patterns. What’s your
favourite piece of work?
Artez: I try to customize my work to the environment in
which it is located, and thus contribute to improving the
quality of the spaces in which we live. I guess that’s a need
that I developed while I studied architecture and now that
would be hard to give up. My favourite piece this year is
22 Zagreb In Your Pocket
definitely the mural “What is and what will be,” that I did in
Užice. Of course, the portrait of my dog Iuna will always be
in a class of its own!
Bare: In addition to my works on walls, I have to mention
the PIMP MY PUMP project that I succeeded in introducing. It began on a neighbourhood level - then on a citywide level - with the reconstruction of old abandoned
Zagreb water pumps, which put a smile on your face with
pleasant childhood memories. With this came the revival
of the old park on the border of the Upper and Lower
Towns, and terminated with the finial product which is
the Art Park. Painting hospitals, fundraising projects and
workshops, that’s all me and my art.
Dominik: I do illustrations and for now that’s my favourite
work so far; my art thesis, which isn’t the best, but I did
invest lots of time and effort. Even today it’s something
that reminds me of the things I need to work on and how
I want to develop.
Modul: Letters are my art: the art of beautifully drawn calligraphy is what I like to paint. There are no hidden symbols, they’re just stylized letters that I like to be as readable
and as decorative as possible. Each piece of work is interesting, and although there are some I’m not fully satisfied
with, I don’t have a favourite. The piece I do tomorrow is
always my favourite! : D
Stipan: It depends on the series, the project itself, and
what stage it’s in. Somehow I can’t take everything I’ve
done and put it all in one basket, but yes, I use elements
from all of them. My favourite piece is the mural in Dugave,
‘The Arrival of Blacks in Dugave’ because it predicted the
What’s the hardest part while doing a new piece of
art? How do you pick a location?
Artez: The hardest part is definitely the beginning: creating
the appropriate composition, choosing the colour palette
and matching the theme of the mural with the environment.
Once the conceptual design is complete, the creation of the
piece may be physically difficult, but for me it doesn’t present
much of a problem. As far as the location is concerned, I’ve
lately been fortunate enough that the place chooses me and
not the other way around. Otherwise, I like to draw in abandoned and dilapidated factories - walls where the ravages of
time have left its mark are to me very inspiring.
Bare: The most difficult thing is negotiating the price of a
commercial piece of work. And in terms of the work itself, the
hard part is setting up and the preparation until the actual
fun part begins. While walking through the city I don’t look
down or at my cell phone, I study everything around me (the
buildings and walls) and when I see something abandoned,
decrepit - like the former Art Park - I get ideas about what I
Dominik: I think it’s the same like in all forms of art, and that’s
coming up with a viable idea. The sketch, format, medium and
technique are all steps that come later and tie together with
the idea. The location is anywhere my friends call me to. :D
Modul: The hardest part is setting it all up and paining the
wall with the background colour. Everything after that is
fun! The wall simply catches my eye. And if it’s a special
location I try to get in contact with the owners and get
permission to carry out my idea.
Stipan: The problem is that I’m not exclusively a street artist; therefore the walls choose me - and not the other way
around. I simply get invited by organizers to take part in
festivals where I’m presented with a wall. But now, for the
first time I want to start choosing my own walls, so I think
I’ll have to do that soon.
Street Art is a visually stimulating form of art. If you
could add another element, what music would you
pick to accompany your work?
Artez: Right now it would be one of David August’s mixes.
Bare: Pink Floyd.
Dominik: Of all the musical genres, I somehow always
come back to Blues - which for me is particularly endearing: it’s simple and very narrative; it tells a story that inspires me. I really like the period between the 50’s and 70’s,
especially Little Walter for his harmonica (which I also play)
and Lightnin’ Hopkins.
Modul: Music is always necessary when I work and I love
Rock the most.
Stipan: I’ve never thought about that. But maybe it’d be
classical music from the Impressionist period.
Which cities inspire you the most?
Artez: Cities for me have become very boring, so I rarely
get inspiration from them. I’d say I get more inspiration
from the people I meet during my travels, whether that
be in cities or not. Definitely my biggest inspiration is nature: plants, and the colours that appear in the sky during
sunrise and sunset.
Bare: Mostly Zagreb. But I like to travel, so every year I try
to go on a journey somewhere to expand my horizons a
bit and along the way I get some inspiration.
Dominik: I’ve never sought inspiration from the city itself,
but more through friends in Zagreb. I associate romance
with cities like New York, Berlin…
Modul: Of course, Zagreb! I’m glad that Zagreb has a lot
of artists now. We’re very diverse and everyone has their
own style with lots of room to develop. There aren’t imitators who want to be like someone else, each artist is an
individual with their own space.
Stipan: Berlin, Moscow, Paris.
“Sea Turtle” by Etien, Photo by Marša Gajinov
“Bless from the past” by Lonac, Photo by Višnja Arambašić
Stipan: I’d be upset, but of the 5-6 years I’ve been doing
murals most of my work has survived.
“Selfie with three crows” by Dominik Vuković
What’s the first thing that comes into people’s minds
when they see your work on the streets?
Artez: Haha, I can’t speak for everyone, but I’m sure some
of them say, ‘Look! It’s that fern-man again!’, probably because of the floral motifs which I’ve recently been incorporating in my work.
Bare: For now I’ve had more positive reactions than negative ones because of my work on abandoned buildings,
so the final result is something that immediately cheers
people up. I’m more disappointed myself with some of my
work because I think I can do a lot better.
Dominik: Well, I don’t see them much, hahaha. I did a
solo piece called ‘The Birds of Zagreb’, and I don’t know
what people think when they see it. But while I was doing
it they’d show interest as they walked by - which I thought
Modul: I most often get positive comments, like: ‘Wow,
that’s nice!’ or ‘Awesome! The wall was terrible, now it’s
finally beautiful.’ Realistically, the people who would com24 Zagreb In Your Pocket
PIMP MY PUMP Archives
plain have nothing to say because you’re doing something
positive for the community - regardless of the fact that
you’re promoting yourself - the final product is for everyone.
Stipan: I’d love it if it made them smile, but I don’t know to
what extent I achieve that.
How long do your works last on the street? How do
you react when you see that someone has defaced
your work (if that happens)?
Artez: It all depends on the particular location - there
really is no rule. I came to the realization a long time ago
that street art isn’t a permanent thing, so I don’t have a
problem when other people manipulate my work. Once
the work is done it stops belonging to me and belongs to
everyone; so if someone wishes to ruin it they have just as
much right to do so as I did in drawing it.
Bare: There are lost of pieces that have remained untouched to this day - in Trešnjevka there’s a piece in a park
on Adžijina St. that’s not been untouched in 3-4 - and
there’s no problem if someone draws something beside
it. The situation like the one on Branimir pains me a bit
where a mural that takes 2-3 days to do gets spray-painted
on and disfigured in a few seconds. But when you’re doing
work on the street you know that it’s not forever and will
eventually fade away.
Dominik: It’s still there :D
Modul: Some are still around today after years and years,
and some survive half an hour because there are vandals
and of all the walls in the city they choose yours as the
one to mark up. When I finish a work I take a photo for my
album, if it happens to be late I come back the next morning and after that whatever happens, happens. We had a
situation in Mostar where overnight they tagged over our
freshly completed wall which we had to fix up the next
morning; of course, later the guys felt bad and apologized.
When you work on the street you have to expect things
Are there artists whom you admire, and why?
Artez: I admire musicians most of all because for me
it’s incomprehensible that someone can trap energy as
sound. Music influences my mood and the inspiration I get
from it is reason enough to believe that some musicians
are from another planet.
Bare: There are many of them who do great things but I
don’t know who I’d specifically like to mention.
Dominik: I’ve got so many I can’t count, but it changes
depending on my momentary interests and needs. I look
at them as mentors I can learn something from. From
some of them it may only be a word about technique that
I hadn’t thought about before but which I can now notice
in my work.
Modul: Each artist has his own artist. I’ve been inspired by
Salvador Dali since childhood. As for street art artists there
are a million and I follow all of them on social networks
and so I’m up to date with their work which I think’s great.
Stipan: Of course, I always admire relaxedness, versatility,
directness, unpretentiousness, sense of space, emotion
and composition, and performance skills.
What other passions do you have besides for art?
Artez: I love to travel, cook and eat; so if I get to blend all
three together and spice it up with drawing, my happiness
would know no bounds.
Modul: Art Park, Gradec, vidikovac, Strossmayerove stube,
Zrinjevac, basically wherever there’s green space. During
the summer it’s mostly along the Sava river while fishing
under the bridge and enjoying the shade.
Modul at work
Bare: Traveling and snowboarding. Basically I like to be
outside in nature as much as possible.
Dominik: I like biking the most, but also sports and physical activity in general. Like how books are for the soul,
sports feed the body.
Modul: I was a pro Skateboarder, and I generally love all
sports. Besides football, I like to fish, ping pong is fun, I like
to play card games like Bela, I like everything that young
people like: D
Stipan: My biggest hobby is biking.
Where do you see the whole street art movement in
ten, twenty years?
Artez: Computers - I think with the development of technology will come new tools that will allow artists to create
huge works art from the comfort of their own homes (or
maybe from armchairs placed in front of the wall). Some
pioneering attempts using drones to draw on walls have
already been made. And there are already rumours regarding the development of large printers that will be able to
“print” murals on buildings. Of course, artists who make
street art using traditional methods will always be around,
but the development of new technology will definitely affect their lives.
Bare: Somehow I feel like it’s at its peak. There’s a hype
surrounding street art now, but I have no idea how things
will continue to develop. It’s great to see that finally people
and institutions have begun to accept the street art movement.
Dominik: On a higher level, of course, street art and murals have been around for a long time but I think that it’s
still in its infancy, and in my opinion for development there
needs to be more planning.
Stipan: It will go into manirism and collapse; at best, the
last jolt will produce something new + of course the “oldschoolers” will continue to do graffiti.
As an artist, do you feel any responsibility towards
Artez: I feel an obligation to remain true to the craft that I
have chosen and to keep things on the streets as much as
I can, so that in this way I can lead by example and prove
26 Zagreb In Your Pocket
What’s the best way to get to know the city and its
Artez: Through drawing, of course!
Bare: Infiltrate yourself among like-minded people and
explore the city with them.
Dominik: Through conversation! That’s the best and most
Modul: Drawing and conversations: that’s how many new
projects and friendships have come about.
Stipan: I somehow always meet the best people in the
strangest places, but again, Krivi Put is a nice place to start.
Where do you think’s the best new place for street art
Bare: The sides of buildings that are in bad shape which
are all over the city.
Dominik: Neighbourhoods! Neighbourhoods are great:
Novi Zagreb and Trnje have many grey and depressing
socialist buildings which could be brought to life with
Modul: I think the only legal place remaining is the roundabout, which is also the worst possible place. A lot of the
facades have begun to be painted, so I think that most
of the potential walls are in the centre and are yet to be
discovered. And the people themselves will start to seek
out the artists, just like we were contacted by the tenants
of a building who were interested in their facade being
Stipan: I think the whole city has potential for street art,
especially Novi Zagreb.
“Making The Creation Of Adam” by Stipan Tadić
that it’s possible live off one’s art. I also think it’s very important that your actions send a positive example, not
only on a professional level, but also on all other levels.
Something like Miss World, only with a little more paint on
the fingers and clothes, haha.
Bare: I do, that’s why I try to contribute to community
projects like Art Park, educational workshops, and fundraising events, in order to send a particular message.
Dominik: Yes, if you have the opportunity to put something in front of people, you definitely need to choose
your words and the way you present things. I especially
like the idea that we are all teachers and students and that
we can influence someone or something.
Modul: Of course. All works on the street are part of a
conversation with the people, so that’s why I always try to
make sure it’s positive.
Stipan: Sure, every piece of work has to communicate
with and educate the viewer.
Is there a specific thought or message you’d like to
pass to the readers?
Artez: Be consistent in your work and never give up on
what you love!
Dominik: Be teachers…and students… hahaha.
Modul: Catch and release.
Stipan: Drugs don’t expand your mind.
In your opinion, where’s the best place in Zagreb to
Artez: Art Park, because that’s where my friends are!
Bare: Art Park, but during the winter it’s Atelier Lapo Lapo
and of course Sljeme.
Dominik: Art Park and any other park when the weather’s
nice. I like to drink tea/beer/wine in Mali Medo on Opatovina St.,and I like to hang out in Atelier Lapo Lapo.
Bare at work
How has street art changed in Zagreb and Croatia in
the last few years?
Bare: Like I’ve already said, I think we’re experiencing a
lot of hype, and that fact’s proven by how much work we
Dominik: It’s growing and developing well, but there can
still be more.
Modul: It’s changed immensely. Until about 5 years ago
there weren’t so many people - mainly graffiti artists while now there are people doing murals, stencils, stickers,
posters and looking for any piece of wall, entranceways,
and door where they can leave their mark. There was a
boom and a lot of new names came out of it, which if it
continues like this will be great for street art.
Stipan: It’s strange here, street art had a roof over its head
before it really came to life on the street. Interestingly it’s
held together by a total of about 5 people. At first, the
only serious “street artist” - except for graffiti artists - was
Filjio, who did a pretty good job of keeping his anonymity;
which I think is cool with “real” street artists. Right now
Lonac is very active and very good + graffiti artists Chez
and ManeMei ...
MEET THE MEAT
The super-friendly waiters, modern interior, lovely
outside seating, good cooking at sensible prices. Be
sure to book for an evening table.QI‑4, Prisavlje 2,
tel. (+385-1) 604 09 18, www.restaurantbalon.com.
Open 11:00 - 23:00. (60 - 150kn). PT A 6 L
A full review for Batak would literally take pages. This
restaurant chain already covers most of the city. Highly
trained and polite staff, the menu is always being kept
fresh. A recommendation is close to impossible to pick,
but if pushed you simply have to try the mazalica with
urnebes. Divine.QK‑2, Vlaška 115, tel. (+385-1) 466 43
31, www.batak-grill.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (35 - 70kn).
Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend the
beef and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod
peke’ style. The prosciutto, homemade sausages and
freshly baked bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and
a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine.
Also at Bencekovićeva 28.QB‑1, Mletačka ulica 11,
tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/(+385-) 091 484 20 61, www.
konoba-didovsan.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 24:00. (45 - 130kn). PA L G W
A delightful restaurant in the suburb of Sesvete, just
15 minutes drive from Zagreb. It’s something like a
converted barn, with a superb raftered dining room,
where they offer up all kinds of meals with local and
international accents (such as fondue, flambeed dishes and chateaubriand). The emphasis is definitely on
meat – they have a game section on the menu, and
frogs’ legs. QVinogorska 55, tel. (+385-1) 200 63
73, www.restoran-isabella.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
Closed Sun. (65 - 110kn). PL N G B W
STARI FIJAKER 900
A beer hall and a restaurant, this double agent is a
favourite among locals and tourists alike. Located on
the picturesque street Mesnička, which heads towards
Upper Town, Stari fijaker is popular for its beans, its
low-key atmosphere and its cuisine from the northern Croatian region of Zagorje. Homemade soups,
fresh mushrooms, and an array of duck, turkey and
lamb dishes. A great choice of beers, both domestic
and international, is available in what is apparently
one of Zagreb’s oldest beer halls.QB‑2, Mesnička 6,
tel. (+385-1) 483 38 29/(+385-1) 483 12 36, www.
starifijaker.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
(55 - 130kn). PA G X W
Its grilled dishes are hard to beat and it’s especially
well known for its lamb meal. A great place to try some
of the traditional goodies, its outdoor dining opportunity is perhaps the best in the centre of town, with
candle-light flickering as you move from anxious and
disagreeable to smooth and charming (finally). Highly
recommended.QC‑2, Nikole Tesle 10, tel. (+385-1)
481 14 27/(+385-1) 481 13 41, www.vinodol-zg.hr.
Open 10:00 - 23:30. (65 - 180kn). PJ A 6 G
28 Zagreb In Your Pocket
Restaurant Voncimer - the gastronomic but casual value for money dining and drinking
experience in a relaxed atmosphere. Personal selection of Croatian wines, mainly
from smaller independent vineyards and artisan winemakers.
A large black grill, lakeside seating and a few pivo from the
ice chest combine to make for an atmosphere that says
weekend whatever the day. The menu features all the beef
and sausage you can stomach and is best described as decent. Your departing gait will closely resemble a waddle.
QG‑5, Aleja Matije Ljubeka 3, tel. (+385-1) 383 16 72/
(+385-) 091 383 16 75, www.jarunskidvori.hr. Open
11:30 - 24:00, Sun 11:30 - 22:00. (30 - 75kn). NBX
Nestled in the peaceful greenery of Tuškanac, visitors to
this hide-away hot spot are welcomed with a wine-wall
entrance and swept away to Dalmatia with seafood delights. The understated, rustic exterior highlights the fresh
and elegant restaurant and wine bar. The vino selection
alone is worth the trek but we suggest donning your Sunday best with friends and an apetite for an unforgettable
fine-dining affair.QB‑1, Dubravkin put 2, tel. (+385-1)
483 49 75, www.dubravkin-put.com. Open 11:00 23:00. Closed Sun. (90 - 170kn). PJALGBW
Locals find it supremely authentic - the fish is as rubbery
as a racquetball, which is evidently how momma’s been
doing it for the last millennium or so. If you want to understand the meaning of Dalmatia and you don’t want
to have to go far to do it, this is your place.QC‑2, Nikole
Tesle 17, tel. (+385-1) 487 21 59, www.restoran-korcula.
hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 165kn). PJ
A little piece of Italy in the heart of Zagreb. Here you’ll
find the menu brimming with handmade pasta, sauce,
and bread. It’s a blend of Italian tradition, passion, and
know-how, and of course the almost stereotypical Italian
chef singing in the kitchen while preparing everything,
show-cooking style. The shelves are awash with wines on
offer, and Cantina might well be the only place in Zagreb
(if not the entire country) where you can get your hands
on a sparkling red wine. There’s even Italian beer on the
menu. Also at Avenue Mall, Avenija Dubrovnik 16.QD‑2,
Kralja Držislava 3, Zagreb (city center, near Mestrovic Pavilion also known as Džamija).
The restaurant stays inside Oris House of Architecture
Business hours: 12 pm – 11 pm (Mon-Sat)
firstname.lastname@example.org | 01 7988 374 | facebook.com/voncimer | instagram.com/voncimer
Clean lines, dark wood and cool lounge music make this
a gastronomic haven for the city´s younger generation.
The meat-based menu is pleasingly multinational in its
orientation - you´ll definitely find something that takes
you away from the run of the mill. Excellent wines. Reserve
in advance.QI‑2, Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 466 94
32, www.mano.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (80 150kn). PAGBW
Rooster in red wine, Voncimer Archives
Hemingway Bar & Bistrot Archives
Trg Drage Iblera 10, tel. (+385-) 091 592 59 03, www.
cantina.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:30 - 23:00. Closed
Sun. (18 - 65kn). PiTJABS
Satisfy your desire for the finest of Italian cuisine with this
robust menu offered in the heart of the city center. From
carpacci to dolci, each meal is delectable and complemented from a near endless selection of wines. While
retaining an atmosphere of top-class dining, the freshly
renovated bistro-style interior playfully invites guests to
indulge and enjoy.QC‑2, Teslina 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 23
31, www.ristorantecarpaccio.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00.
Closed Sun. (55 - 150kn). PJAGBW
HEMINGWAY BAR & BISTROT
Hemingway is an established name that oozes in class and
is a place to be seen. With years of experience, the staff is
highly trained with attention paid to every detail, as with
the food, drinks and even cigars. Cocktails are a menu
classic with some unheard of combos that will knock
your socks off, and the music is very much based on the
clubbing and lounge scene!QB‑3, Trg Maršala Tita 1, tel.
(+385-1) 485 58 88, www.bistro.hr/. Open 08:00 - 23:00.
Closed Sun. iTJAGBW
30 Zagreb In Your Pocket
Situated just a mere hop, skip, and a jump from Zagreb’s
džamija, Voncimer has reinvented itself as an International
eatery, with Ukrainian specialities. Situated in the ORIS
House of Architecture, it’s ideal for impressing friends,
family, or business guests, or simply for enjoying yourself.
We can recommend trying a traditional house drink, Mors,
made with cranberries, cinnamon, aniseed, and cloves.
QD‑3, Kralja Držislava 3, tel. (+385-1) 798 83 74, www.
oris.hr/hr/voncimer/. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
(90 - 125kn). PJAG
Zinfandels, named for a variety of grape which originated
in Croatia, specialises in light, Mediterranean-inspired
food, using local and international know-how to best create great dishes which resonate with regional authenticity.
The huge štrukli is well worth trying, and if you were to try
two, no one could fault you.QC‑4, Mihanovićeva 1 (Esplanade Zagreb Hotel), tel. (+385-1) 456 66 44/(+385-1)
456 66 66, www.zinfandels.hr. Open 06:00 - 23:00, Sun
06:30 - 23:00. (130 - 220kn). PAGBW
CHIC & CHEERFUL
Tuck in a napkin bib, here comes the burger to write home
about…to write sonnets about… to declare juicy, beefy
goodness on par with lottery winnings about. Served at
ready-to-eat temperatures on perfectly soft, crispy-crust
buns with thin bacon slices and crunchy lettuce leaves.
Then there is lešada, seafood, lamb, chicken or beef
cooked in salty water with various ingredients for spice.
Tasty, healthy and served with potatoes or silver beat. It’s
love at first bite and highly recommended.QK‑4, Frana
Folnegovića 10, tel. (+385-1) 618 77 76/(+385-1) 788
87 76, www.rougemarin.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed
Sun. (30 - 80kn). A6GBW
Ladies, this is one bistro where all the chefs and staff are
men and one would expect that at least 50% of the customer base finds this enticing. The concept is oh so simple
with a choice of three types of hearty meals per day. The
menu changes daily and is tops for brunch or lunch.QH‑3,
Kostelska 11, tel. (+385-) 095 199 54 59. Open 11:30 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 40kn). PN
Marunada - Lovran Tourist Board Archives
Understated fabulousness permeates this must-go spot
carved into a city center alleyway staircase. The relaxed,
happy clientele make the most impressive aspect of the
decor with over thirty business casual making up the
major hues. Stop in anytime for wine and fab tapas but
with a tv-famous chef in the kitchen.QD‑2, Vlaška 63, tel.
(+385-1) 553 10 14. Open 12:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (50 110kn). PAGBW
This American styled burger joint, not far from the heart
of Zagreb, certainly looks the part. Music, check, decor,
check, all the beautiful people, check... The food is priced
well, and with word spreading fast you’d be well to take
any opportunity to pay a visit, while there are seats free.
QB‑1, Tuškanac 1, tel. (+385-1) 483 40 17, www.papas.
hr. Open 11:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 23:30, Sun 12:30 22:00. (24 - 38kn). PJAGBXW
Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it’s
also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the
landscaped Tomislav Square. There’s none of the OTT decor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact
it’s perfectly suited to a business meal. Food is consistently
top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at
Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26.QD‑3, Augusta Šenoe 1, tel.
(+385-1) 484 12 18, www.asia.hr. Open 11:30 - 23:00. (29
- 125kn). PAGW
ASIA T HOUSE
Zagreb has seen a rise in non-regional cuisine in recent
months and years, and all of it very much welcomed indeed. Here, just around the corner from the main square,
you can call in for tea, coffee, beer, most of it with a distinct Asian feel to it. But it’s not just a place for a break
from shopping, it’s a place to shop, and to eat. The market
is expansive and offers a great many ingredients for the
burgeoning chefs among you, while the restaurant has a
menu packed full of familiar items, and some not so familiar. Connected to the Asia Gold restaurant, so you know
it’s quality.QC‑2, Vlaška 9, tel. (+385-1) 468 38 86, www.
asia-thouse.com.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (45 - 150kn).
Located by the Zagreb Cathedral, Royal India is the perfect place to savour some authentic Indian cuisine. Situated in the basement, the scent of incense greets you at
the door and creates a temple-like atmosphere. Try some
samosas, tandoori chicken and warm naan with a cup of
lassi or cardamom tea along with a wide variety of other
delicious dishes. Be careful when ordering your food spicy
because unlike most of the restaurants in Zagreb, the food
really is spicy. Best of all, the extremely friendly staff recommends the best dishes with the freshest ingredients for
the day.QC‑1, Kaptol 27, tel. (+385-1) 468 09 65, www.
royal-india-zagreb.com. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (50 - 90kn).
TIME RESTAURANT & BAR
Time, in a classical sense, might be fleeting, but this place
certainly isn’t. Perhaps better known to many as a great
bar, Time is also a restaurant serving Asian fusion food,
something not so common in Zagreb even a few years
ago. Whatever you order make sure you try the spring
rolls with duck.QC‑2, Petrinjska 7, tel. (+385-1) 333 36
60. Open Mon - Thu 07:00 - 02:00, Fri 07:00 - 03:00, Sat
09:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 160kn) €€. PTJ
Vegetarian quiche with ham, omelets, coffee, freshly
squeezed oranges, fried bread, whole-grain groat,
eggs, apple and cheese strudel.QC‑3, Gajeva 25, tel.
(+385-1) 481 04 76, www.bistrofotic.com. Breakfast is served: Mon - Sat 08:00 - 11:00. Closed Sun.
(20 - 25kn). iJ
Oatmeal, porridge, scrambled eggs, poached eggs,
quinoa, and sandwiches with avocado.QC‑2, Nikole
Tesle 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 77 11, www.bistroteka.
hr. Breakfast is served: Mon - Fri 08:00 - 11:00, Sat
08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. (17 - 42kn). iJ
Cantina Avenue Mall, Photo by Marša Gajinov
They offer a large selection of coffee and tea,
along with sandwiches, cakes, cocktails, smoothies, natural juices. There’s something to suit everyone’s taste!QC‑2, Ulica Augusta Cesarca 4 (Next
to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića), tel. (+385-1) 484 53
93. Breakfast is served from 08:00 - 12:00. (22 33kn). PT J A 6 U E G B X W
Cantina Avenue Mall, Photo by Marša Gajinov
Homemade cheese and sour cream, bacon and
onion, gluten-free bread, omelet with cheese and
mushrooms, turkey sandwich with mozzarella, toast,
croissants with chocolate and jam.QC‑2, Trg bana
Josipa Jelačića 9, www.franck.eu/johann-franck/.
Breakfast is served: Mon - Sat 08:00 - 12:00, Sun
10:00 - 12:00. (8 - 65kn). iJ
How do you like your eggs? Cooked, scrambled
or sunny-side-up? Not to mention bacon’n’eggs,
sausages’n’eggs, toasts, Yankee Doodle pancakes,
cottage cheese with cream, tortillas.QA‑2; C‑2, Britanski trg & Tkalčićeva ulica 12, www.kavatava.
com. Breakfast is served: 07:00 - 24:00. (14 - 40kn).
Bistor Rougemarin, photo by Bojan - Haron Markičević
‘Fajn’ dining indeed here, as any regular will tell you. Well
known for its exceptionally friendly staff, Fajn is situated
in Zagreb’s Upper Town, well within striking distance of
a multitude of tourist sites, and Zagreb’s plentiful watering holes. Mediterranean, international and contemporary
food is on offer, and the wine menu won’t disappoint.
QB‑1, Vranyczanyeva 6, tel. (385-1) 485 14 11, www.
fajnbistro.com.hr. Open 13:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (50 120kn) €€. PTJALGBXW
32 Zagreb In Your Pocket
LOUIE CAFE & KITCHEN
English breakfast (eggs, bacon, sausages and mushrooms), a protein smoothie, yogurt with chia seeds,
croissants, muffins, homemade focaccia with chicken, roast beef sandwiches and burgers.QC‑1, Nova
Ves 19, tel. (+385-1) 466 61 59. Breakfast is served:
Tue - Sun 09:00 - 11:30. (18 - 58kn). A6W
POD ZIDOM COFFEE, FOOD & WINE BAR
Pod Zidom (Under the Wall) is a wine bar and bistro
right in the heart of Zagreb. It offers dishes made
from the fresh groceries which it gets from the nearby Dolac market, a wide selection of Croatian indigzagreb.inyourpocket.com
enous wines, as well as the usual array of cocktails
and refreshments. A must try is Ručak s Dolca (Lunch
from Dolac) also, Pod Zidom has a special à la carte
menu, featuring beef carpaccio, pork sliders, agnolotti with rabbit ragu. Pod Zidom also plays host to
live music during the week(end).QC‑2, Pod Zidom 5,
tel. (+385-) 099 325 36 00. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (30 - 75kn).
Eat in or have it delivered, Franky’s is situated just north of
Zagreb’s nightlife district in the Kaptol Centre (2nd floor),
so is a handy place to grab a bite (and have a drink) before
heading home, and in relative peace and quiet too. Do
your shopping, settle in for a meal, enjoy a glass of wine.
Franky’s does white pizza, which is not always something
you’ll see in any pizzeria.QI‑2, Nova ves 17, tel. (+385-1)
486 08 34. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (22 - 63kn). PTJ
If you’ve not heard of this place then you’ve not
spoken to anyone living within its delivery radius.
Known for its pizza and lasagne you could probably
eat here all month long and still have something
new to try. Zagreb is truly blessed when it comes to
pizza, and it’s nigh impossible to suggest a must-try
for here…but the biftek pizza probably edges it.QJ‑2,
Nike Grškovića 4, tel. (+385-1) 468 41 78, www.
pizzakodzaca.hr. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (40 - 70kn).
PT 6 V N G S W
It’s far from ništa (nothing) that you’ll get here, should
you choose to forego meat for your meal. The menu has
adequate depth and variety, and you’ll see a wonderful
mix of cold raw, and hot cooked vegetarian dishes. The
menu also contains vegan and gluten-free dishes for
those more in tune with Mother Nature. Enjoy the local wines, beers, and home-made juices that Nishta has
to offer. Staff is very helpful and will assist in choosing
an option for those unfamiliar with vegetarian repast. A
return visit is definitely on the cards. Kitchen closes at
22:00QB‑2, Masarykova 11/1, tel. (+385-1) 889 74 44/
(+385-) 099 254 69 59, www.nishtarestaurant.com.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (49 - 69kn). PT
JA 6 G W
ZRNO BIO BISTRO
100% organic food, the only place in Croatia which
can boast such a thing, it also a decent selection
of regional wines available. The interior is warm in
appearance, with a narrow terrace outside if the
weather allows. There’s a bookstore in the basement
as well, for budding architects.QB‑2, Medulićeva
20, tel. (+385-1) 484 75 40, www.zrnobiobistro.hr.
Open 12:00 - 21:30. Closed Sun. (45 - 59kn). PA
6G B W
O’Hara’s is well known throughout Zagreb, having
seen their pizza chefs win award after award. The
western suburbs of the capital might seem an odd
place for a pizzeria such as this, but the locals aren’t
complaining, and nor are the many others who travel
across the city to eat here. Everything tastes divine,
and while you might come away thinking you could
have eaten more, you will not feel the least bit hungry. That’s a guarantee.QF‑3, I.B.Mažuranić 1b, tel.
(+385-1) 379 21 12, www.oharazagreb.com. Open
12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (38 - 86kn). PT A
GB X S
Zero Zero sits near a corner of Vlaška, not far from the
tramline, and it’s transport you’ll need after eating here…
The pizzas are HUGE, and taste of more. The food is Neapolitan, and we’d love to tell you more about the décor
and general surrounds, but the meat and seafood pizzas
kept the reviewers glued to their plates. Great for dates,
family gatherings, or even a solo trip.QD‑2, Vlaška 35,
tel. (+385-1) 889 70 00. Open 10:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 23:00. (20 - 69kn). PTJAUGBXW
Rain, they say, falls ever so often; scientists argue over
whether we will experience global warming or an ice age,
summers seem ever so brief. However, despite of it all and
with our luck, the couriers of Zagreb’s autumn are always
‘the same old’, ordinary, charming, and impeccable, colourful, alluring. You can sense her smell in the air, because the
smell of Zagreb’s autumn is, as they say in Zagreb, utterly
Dolac awakens all senses in the autumn. On Zagreb’s central open market, under the sunshades in the colours of
the šestine umbrella an array of curiosities are compressed,
even the kumice or godmothers awaken from the abundance. Some ingredients are special, authentic autumnal
favourites of old Zagreb, such as young beans that will
be eaten with a spoon, pumpkins that will be made into
a dainty pumpkin and cream cheese strudel, chestnuts
that will smell in the streets until the real winter comes,
or porcini mushrooms which the hardworking mushroom
pickers have sent down to the city from lofty Medvednica,
hovering high above Zagreb. The same ingredients that are
strutted on Dolac, are the same as those that smell oh-so
Peppers and home made ajvar, photo by Višnja Arambašić
delightful while being transformed in the city’s restaurants
and Zagreb households where every day cooking has
not been abandoned. To not peek into an old tavern or a
modern restaurant which has modernised an old recipe to
make it even better, would be a shame. Actually, there’s no
real dilemma there, for when the Grički cannon announces
with a bang that it is exactly noon, it is time for lunch! In addition, that fresh cheese and sour cream from the kumice
on Dolac, was eaten long ago with a piece of corn bread
Autumn is the season that longs for, as it is so popularly
said, food that is eaten with a spoon, food that fortifies but
does not fall heavily on the stomach. Autumn is ideal for
hundreds of types of vegetable stews, for a plate of young
beans in which meat is optional, and which can and does
not have to be adorned with a pork sausage, for sour pork
lungs, for tripe in which men, more frequently than women, look for comfort with a spoon. Tripe, that lunch-classic,
such as let us say wine goulash or gentle egg noodles with
cabbage that reminds us of childhood. A little bit of cabbage, a little bit of grandma’s noodles and there is happiness. And ham hock!? It is important not to be impressed
by a large piece of pork meat that can be taken off the bone
with one’s fingers. Autumn looks for invigoration of all sorts,
and ham hock is even more than that.
Every bite from Zagreb’s gastronomical autumns reminds
of home, wherever you may be from. To be, truly, for a
moment, and then for evermore to remain, a real Purger
or authentic Zagreb resident, it helps to buy a bag of hot
chestnuts, and to pair it with Portugiser, a young wine. For
Zagreb has its Beaujolais, its young wine, which is, why
would it not be, maybe even better than that which the
French have made famous.
Croatia has a singer named Oliver. In his repertoire is a song
that lists tens of meals that can be made from eggs. When
you once try Zagreb’s autumnal delicacies, it is easily possible that you will start to sing lyrics that list: ˝sour pork lung,
vegetable stew, pork sausage, black pudding, young beans,
egg noodles with cabbage, thin dried flatbread, cottage
cheese pasty, wine goulash, ham hock, pumpkin pastry,
Rain, they say, falls ever so often; scientists argue over
whether we will experience global warming or an ice age,
summers seem ever so brief. Luckily, Zagreb’s autumn is
always ‘the same old’, ordinary, charming, overwhelming.
Here she is, you can feel the smell in the air - utterly delicious!
HIT THE MARKET!
If you love your food and enjoy cooking, you won’t want
to miss the farmers’ markets. Zagreb has over 20 of them;
most neighbourhoods have at least a few stalls selling fruit
and vegetables, while at the larger markets you’ll also find
meat, fish, dairy produce and a whole lot more.
Dawn in the vineyard, Slatina, photo by Mirsad Mujanović
34 Zagreb In Your Pocket
The charms of open-air markets are known far and wide.
Piles of produce gleaming in the sun; the local colour, the
lively atmosphere. However, for outsiders it can be a dauntzagreb.inyourpocket.com
day at the latest). It’s travelled into town in a big chequered
bag with the lady from the surrounding countryside - these
ladies are known as kumice and for their years spent supplying the city’s markets they’ve earned their own statue at
the top of the steps on Dolac market (C-2). Or it might be
trucked in from the coast where it’s spent its life under the
warm Dalmatian sun.
The Pumpkin Festival, Ivanić Grad Tourist Board Archives
See that bit of mud on the roots of your spinach? That’s a
good sign that tells you this is the real deal. This food wasn’t
raised on artificial substrate so it’s full of flavour. With a bit
of luck it’s not soaked with chemical fertilizers or pesticides
either. Look out for people with a slightly motley selection
of goods that tell you they’re smallholders, not large-scale
traders. Seek out imperfections in the produce – natural
food is not all the same size and shape. Look for a nice bit of
mud (but not too much water, that’s a trick to add weight
on the scales).
The aforementioned Dolac has been feeding the citizens of
Zagreb since 1930, and it’s one of the liveliest spots in the
city. From 06:00 to around 14:00, it’s full of banter, barter,
chatter, shouting and laughter. It’s fringed by cafes and little food outlets; a trip there is an unmissable part of the
If you’re a vegetarian, you’ll want to avoid the meat section where you’ll be confronted by bits of carcass swinging
all over the place. The meat market is far from unsanitary
but it’s a far cry from the cellophane-wrapped sterility of
the supermarket; there’s no kidding you where that pork
chop came from. Here you can choose from fresh meat of
all kinds, cured hams, bones and tails for your soup, spicy
Slavonian kulen (a little like a giant chorizo), multitude salamis and the scourge of children everywhere, offal.
Dried Figs, photo by Višnja Arambašić
ing experience. You have to find a way to communicate
with the stallholders. While the locals develop relationships
with their favourite stallholders over years, you’re here just
for the weekend. How can you be sure you’re not shortchanged or given spoiled produce?
on’t be fooled into thinking that just because this is an
open-air market everything is as local as it is picturesque. If
you look carefully you can spot the importers – the fruit is
a little too regular in shape; the produce is not as fresh as it
might be; the produce on sale is out of season and its packaging belies its foreign origins. The beauty of the market is
buying veg that was picked early this morning (or yester36 Zagreb In Your Pocket
Potentially even more off-putting is the dairy section at
Dolac, an enclosed area with an unmistakeably milky aroma. There rows of ladies invite you to taste their wares, and
we strongly advise you to do so. Try slivers of supple young
cheese (svježi sir), rich sour cream (vrhnje), smoked cheese
(dimljeni sir), cheese flavoured with paprika, nettle, herbs
or made with goat’s or sheep’s milk (kozji, ovčji sir). Also
look out for the Gligora stall selling highly-regarded cheese
from Pag island.
A trip to the fish section (ribarnica) is part culinary voyage, part natural history adventure. The creatures of the
deep whose gaze you’ll meet you’ve probably never seen
before. Along with shimmering crates of sardines are
plump pink scorpion fish, exquisite yet ugly monkfish;
jumbo Adriatic squid, conger eel, river trout and huge,
fearsomely-toothed, delicious and hideously expensive
dentex. If you’re not sure how to prepare these things, ask
the stallholder who will usually gut them for you and offer advice on cooking. Look for fish with plump flesh and
bright (not sunken) eyes. There’s fish to suit every pocket,
and the cheapest, the humble sardine (just 20kn a kilo), is
the healthiest of them all.
Interested in trying some delicious local specialties available around the Zagreb area? You’re in luck because we’ve
made a list of some great places for you to try out during your visit. Savour the taste of traditional local dishes
made using only the freshest seasonal ingredients at these
mouth-watering restaurants, which can be enjoyed along
with various homemade wines produced in Central Croatia. Or, as an alternative, stop by an organic farm to pick up
some fresh produce and make your own meal.
BERTIJA POD LIPOM
This is a 200 year old, originally decorated, cottage and a
protected monument that continues to serve up classic
dishes from the hills of Zagorje. You can taste the homemade strudels, sausages, cheese and sour cream on offer.
The owner Božo is the heart and soul of this place and
makes sure that everything runs smoothly.QZarebačka 8,
Gornja Stubica, tel. (+385-49) 28 91 60. Open 09:00 –
22:00. Closed Mon. NBW
This charming picturesque restaurant is located in the
heart of the Plešivička Wine Road, part of an area locally
nicknamed, “Little Tuscany.’’ They offer traditional dishes full of mouth-watering flavour and seductive aromas
using fresh seasonal ingredients, such as homegrown
rabbit prepared with a delicious rose champagne or
savoury chicken and vegetable skewers. These tasty
meals can be enjoyed with some homemade wine
while overlooking a beautiful view of the vineyards in
this gastronomic fairytale.QPleševica 40, tel. (+3851) 629 30 91. Open 12:00 – 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
(60 – 95kn).
For an authentic zagorski ambience make sure to stop
by Majsecov mlin. Several small wooden house are located around an old mill, in which you can still grind
flour. Try some local dishes which are made using
only ingredients from the Zagorje region. Mulberries,
pumpkin oil and cream of pumpkin soup are available to try along with numerous other local delicacies.
QObrtnička 47, Donja Stubica, tel. (+385-49) 28 80
92, www.majsecov-mlin.com. Open 09:00 – 23:00.
(65 – 90kn). AG B X W
07.10 - 09.10 » HRVATSKA KOSTAJNICA
This is a wonderful event which celebrates chestnuts and
every autumn attracts numerous visitors to the beautiful
little town of Hrvatska Kostajnica. Expect an array of musical, sporting and cooking events – all dedicated to the
main theme of chestnuts, as well as a nice stroll through
the chestnut woods.QHrvatska Kostajnica, www.tzghrvatska-kostajnica.hr.
14.10 - 16.10 » 12TH PUMPKIN FESTIVAL
A festival where you’ll have the chance to sample and buy
a whole range of delicacies made from pumpkin. There’ll
be myriad traditional foods on display, as well as rides by
carriage and classic car laid on, children’s play areas and
workshops, theatre and music performances and exhibitions. This festival is one of the highlights of the year in
Ivanić-Grad – and you’re most welcome to join in the
Pomegranate, photo by Višnja Arambašić
Bučnica, The Pumpkin Festival, Ivanić Grad Tourist Board Archives
38 Zagreb In Your Pocket
25.11 - 26.11 » 11º ZAGREB VINOCOM
Fancy a drop of wine! Yet another top quality exhibition
that promotes the very best in national and international
vino as locals would call it.QC‑4, Esplanade Zagreb Hotel, Mihanovićeva 1, www.vino.com.hr.
Gastro Turopolja, photo by Mario Žilec, Velika Gorica Tourist Board Archives
18. 09 - 30.10 » ISTRIA –TRUFFLES, WINE
Istria’s old hilltop towns and rolling countryside
paint a picture of a Croatian Tuscany complete with a
host of foodie treats. Gastronomically speaking, this
is one of Croatia’s most interesting regions. The heart
of Istria is where the white truffle flourishes and you
can really dabble in some gem dishes spruced with
truffles. Join in the exhibitions, promo sales, cooking workshops, wine, cheese and other eco gastro
sampling on the Zigante Truffle Days in Livade.
07.10 - 16.10 » WEEK OF RESTAURANTS
From New York to London and to our humble Zagreb!
Choose restaurants to wine and dine at the mere price of
100kn, special 3 course menus will be served up . What
a bargain and great way to experience new cuisines.
16.10 » ZELINA CHESTNUT FESTIVAL
Make the most of the autumn days in the leafy hills around
Sveti Ivan Zelina, and don’t miss out on fresh roast chestnuts this year. After an easy hike to the Kladešćica hiking hut you’ll find a merry throng picking and roasting
chestnuts. Fresh grape is laid on to quench your thirst and
delicious, locally - produced nibbles will keep you going
until the chestnuts are done!QSveti Ivan Zelina, www.
11.11 » ST MARTIN’S DAY (MARTINJE)
In the rich wine-producing hills around Zagreb, on St
Martin’s Day the grape must is “baptised” and turned into
wine in a jovial ceremony with all the trappings of a real
baptism. On this day, roast goose is eaten since according
to legend St Martin hid in a stable filled with geese when
he was proclaimed bishop. Martinje is celebrated in many
towns and villages around Zagreb, particularly in the hillside wine cellars around Dugo Selo.Qwww.tzzz.hr.
Dishes in a 125 years old restaurant - This majestic
small traditional wooden building was built in 1887,
dismantled, relocated, reassembled, refurbished and
opened in 2001. What a journey! And when going to
such extremes, the food just has to be good. There is
a yearly all-round menu and an additional seasonal
menu that combines tradition with innovation.QBalogovec 1, Mačkovec, Čakovec, tel. (+385-40) 34 11
01, www.mala-hiza.hr. Open 10:00 – 23:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 – 24:00. (65 – 185kn). PA B W
THE FOODIE’S GUIDE
10.10 - 16.10 » GASTRO TUROPOLJA
A festival of traditional foods promoting the cuisine and
cultural attractions of the town of Velika Gorica and its environs. Just a short drive from Zagreb, Turopolje is a region
of peaceful villages characterised by wooden architecture.
As you drive around, you’ll find a whole host of specialities
and a welcoming atmosphere waiting for you in the local pubs and restaurants.QVelika Gorica Tourist Board,
The Pumpkin Festival, Ivanić Grad Tourist Board Archives
THE LITTLE MARKET FROM THE ATTIC
Many people feel they’d love to have better access to
healthy, organically grown food. And at the same time,
producers of organic food need better access to customers. The Little Market from the Attic (Mali plac s Tavana) is an answer to this problem, enabling people to
have a lot of fun along the way. Here you can find all kinds
of interesting delicacies from the furthest corners of Croatia, plus natural cosmetics, eco-friendly cleaning products
and a whole lot more. It’s also a meeting place where you
can learn from others about growing and enjoying natural
healthy food. For locations and dates check their website
or Facebook page.Qwww.mali-plac.org. J
WINE SCHOOL BY JELENA ŠIMIĆ VALENTIĆ
Love wine! Wanna learn more? Enroll into these workshops
which provide for 15 to 20 people. They consist of three
180 minute sessions per month with the exact dates to be
released two weeks prior to school starting. Classes always
begin at 18:30 and four international wines will always be
tasted!Qtel. (+385-) 098 165 80 73, www.pupitres.hr.
Coffee & Cakes
Coffee & Cakes
A small space brought to life by the creative talents of
Zagreb’s most famous designers, the Blok offers much
more than a seat inside architectural artistry. While sight
and touch delight in the cubic and cushy, take in the tastes
and smells of fresh bakery sweets and smoothies that
complement the select coffee offerings. They offer a large
selection of Croatian wines. Finest of all is the friendly staff,
welcoming all to their futuristically homey space.QE‑2,
Tomašićeva 13. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 16:00.
Cuker is for sugar, so be sure you’ll feel some sweet sensations. Also at Pakoštanska 12 (G-4), tel. (+385-1) 302 01
54, and Dubrava 20, tel. (+385-1) 291 05 66. QA‑2, Britanski trg 9, tel. (+385-1) 558 84 49, www.cukeraj.hr. Open
08:30 - 21:00. PJNG
Any coffee aficionado would be mad not to pay this small
coffee shop a visit. Non-smoking, because the owner
feels it ruins the taste, and serving nothing but coffee,
Eli’s has one of the friendliest staff ever encountered in
oft-gruff Zagreb. Coffee is seasonal so you can be sure
of getting the right sort of coffee to match the time of
year. Eli’s are careful about the quality of their product and only supply a few locations elsewhere in the
city.QA‑2, Ilica 63, tel. (+385-) 091 455 56 08, www.
eliscaffe.com. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00,
Sun 09:00 - 14:00. PJ N G W
It’s an unassuming looking place, but with friendly staff
(but oh so skilled), and a pretty decent selection of coffee
and tea blends. Plenty of seating both indoors and outside, naturally, on the street. Coffee? Purely seasonal and is
based on fresh harvest and freshly roasted coffee. Express
has ‘blends’, a mixture of coffee most often from different
countries, so Costa Rica, Salvador and Brazil might be in
blend this week, whereas next weeks could be entirely
different. They also have single origin coffee! So, if you
devour coffee, then you need to put the time aside to try
a few cups.QC‑2, Petrinjska 4. Open 07:00 – 23:00, Sat
08:00 – 22:00, Sun 09:00 – 14:00.
Neatly nestled just off the street, Finjak finds itself alongside
a number of like-minded businesses. This delightful stepback-in-time antique-filled cafe has a very nice selection
of high quality teas, as well as the usual coffee fare you’d
expect. Heineken and San Servolo can be found here. Indoors is non-smoking but there is an outdoor terrace.QE‑2,
Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-) 092 111 34 83. Open 08:00 - 22:00,
Sun 09:00 - 15:00.
NOT JUST A GREAT SPOT TO SIP YOUR MORNING COFFEE IN PEACE,
BUT ALSO FOR A FUN NIGHT OUT ON THE TOWN WITH FRIENDS.
Open : 07:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00
Zagreb’s best known arthouse cinema, Kino Europa is so
much more. Serving as a large café by day (with cakes
and sandwiches available) the nights offer twice as
much. Two halls play host to events such as quizzes, music performances, and of course documentaries. Kino Europa is not only home to any number of film festivals but
also to a rather kitsch shop where one can procure some
very eclectic items indeed. It should be a weekly ritual to
check the cinema’s website for upcoming features.QB‑2,
Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 88, www.kinoeuropa.
hr. Open 08:30 - 24:00. PJ B W
There are people we know who practically orgasm when
they talk about this little place. The reason? Everything
is home-made from fresh ingredients. The šlag in
most other places is made from packet mix. Here it’s
fresh cream, and the same stuff goes in the ice cream.
Nice old-skool vibe.QJ‑2, Maksimirska 34, tel. (+3851) 231 53 23. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun. PN G W
Situated on Ilirski trg, this is ideally placed to act as starting point, or finishing point, for those eager to explore
the area outside the old walls of Zagreb. Around the corner you’ll find a path leading onto Dubravkin put, which
in turn takes you up a beautiful walk to the woods at the
back of Ksaverska. If you’re ending here you’ll be happy
to know that you’ll get your croissants or krafne on top of
your tea and coffee. Comfy seats, great music policy, and
an even better selection of beer.QC‑1, Ilirski trg 1, tel.
(+385-1) 485 13 57. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PN B X W
Ulica Augusta Cesarca 4
Always nice to sit on a heated terrace, during the morning
rather than at night, and watch life go by. Pleased to note
that Pif is still one of the fastest cafes around the area to
have their outdoor seating ready for customers, even during the cold weather. Great mint tea available here, which
is always nice. Staff are prompt and friendly, and inside is
well ventilated should you be a non-smoker, and unable to
find space on the terrace. Plenty of local and craft beers, and
open late.QC‑2, Preradovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 487 29 59.
Open Mon - Thu 07:00 - 01:00, Fri - Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun
11:00 - 01:00. PJB
SWANKY MONKEY GARDEN
You don’t have to go too far to find a terrace or courtyard
cafe in Zagreb, but Swanky’s Monkey Garden is a great addition and one well worth visiting at least once. The walls of
the main bar are papered with replicas of newspapers and
documentation dating back to the building’s previous life
as a factory, while outside there’s a raised terrace which sits
neatly in front a well tended vegetable garden and orchard.
Thumbs up to the staff who organise live bands, DJs, movie
nights, warm ups for club nights and festivals.QB‑2, Ilica 50,
tel. (+385-1) 400 42 48. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 01:00. PAGBXW
TORTE I TO
Lying low in the back of Centar Kaptol’s 2nd floor, this café
offers a selection of the most deliriously delectable sweets
40 Zagreb In Your Pocket
(next to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića) • tel. (+385-1) 484 53 93
available in Zagreb as well as some of the most helpful staff
in terms of choosing what to eat! With its classic living room
style interior and additional seating outside, this locale is a
winner. I suggest the carrot cheese cake! QC‑1, Nova Ves 11,
Centar Kaptol, tel. (+385-) 099 343 41 11, www.torte-i-to.
hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PNGBW
Best described as one of Zagreb’s best kept secrets this
chilled and laid back venue is somewhere to go to just get
away from it all, tucked away from all the action on the
street. Direct trade café this place has wifi, a great beer selection, and more than a few blends of tea to assist in the
process of relaxation. Perhaps best avoided if you’re not too
fond of the feline persuasion, but certainly a place that’s all
too happy to see, and accommodate, cyclists.QB‑3, Jurja
Žerjavića 7/2. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. P6NGBXW
VIS À VIS
Located just beneath the Zagreb funicular, see an entire
new approach to cakes and pastries which are all made gluten free! Only nutritious healthy ingredients are used including stevia, rice or soy milk, flax seed, olive oil, cranberries,
sweet potatoes, carrots, almonds, cashews, fruits and more.
Digest it all with 100% Arabica coffee, revolution teas, or
healthy fruit juices. Get a terrace seat and remember, ‘health
is wealth’.QB‑2, Tomićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 15 51. Open
09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. PJNBW
viewer has already been back more than a few times.
QA‑4, Ivana Broza 48, tel. (+385-1) 366 83 60, www.
jiggybar.hr. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri 08:00 - 04:00, Sat
12:00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. PTJA6UE
KINO KLUB GRIČ
There’s nothing not to love about this keen café cinema
club. Relax with a coffee or cocktail surrounded by their
cool-not-kitshe movie décor in the cozy lounge-loft, main
floor or terrace. On weekends, the underground nightclub
features live DJs of all irresitably dancable genres. With
the reopening of the classic theatre’s cinema space, this
hot-spot just off the main square, is a must-see.QC‑2,
Jurišićeva 6, tel. (+385-) 098 40 03 06, www.artkinogric.
hr. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:30 - 23:00. TJ6
Johann Franck, photo by Dino Ninković
High on demand, here you can find the latest information
about nightlife in the Croatian capital which is becoming
the ‘must visit’ category in terms of rankings. From jazz,
funk and alternative music, through to new and old R&B,
hip hop to edgier electro beats, we present to you an entire
range of what that is ‘smoking hot’ in the Zagreb’s nightlife
scene. It has to be said that the city is full of small sized
nightclubs and bars made for clubbing and warm-up parties, so there is no excuse to stay in as its time to face the
music; ladies get the heels on, gents get the gel and head
into town for a party all-round.
Located in a former pharmaceuticals factory tucked behind the Westin hotel, Medika is basically an anarchists’
squat that was granted official status by a city administration eager to pucker up to Zagreb’s alternative community.
A regular menu of punk, ska and jazz gigs plus raucous
DJ-driven club nights attract a healthy cross-section of
hedonistically-inclined youth - so you don’t need either
dreadlocks or a dog on a rope to fit in. Check out their
website to see what’s going on.QA‑3, Pierottijeva 11, tel.
(+385-1) 619 72 23, www.attack.hr. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 04:00 and on request. J6NBXW
This is the last bastion of unadulterated rock music in Zagreb. Black clad sulky people dance it up on Fridays and
Saturdays in a pantomime of rock and leather, but not
without a touch of 1980s irony and even some electropop.QH‑2, Jabukovac 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 43 97. Open
Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. P
42 Zagreb In Your Pocket
The Esplanade 1925 Lounge & Cocktail Bar Archives
On the cutting edge of all things cool, Kset is gaining a
reputation for some especially cool live shows that include flawless jazz and DJ wizardry. The mood lighting is
the icing on the cake. Locals are becoming very passionate about their worship of this place.QB‑4, Unska 3, tel.
(+385-1) 612 97 58, www.kset.org. Open 20:00 - 24:00,
Fri 21:00 - 01:00, Sat 22:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. EGW
This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one
of Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also
something of an offbeat cultural centre, with something
going on most nights of the week - film nights, theatre
performances, literary events and art happenings included. Artist Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip décor in the
bar area is reason enough to call in. As a reminder, the club
opens only for organized concerts or special events, so it’s
best to keep track via the web.QI‑3, Trnjanski nasip bb,
tel. (+385-1) 615 96 67, www.mochvara.hr. Open for organized concerts and special events, so it’s best to keep
track via the web or Facebook page. PT6UL
BACCHUS JAZZ BAR
Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted
grotto, but the music is still audible if you’re seated out in
the courtyard on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche,
or under a fig tree. The solitary can read one of the books
from the shelves under the bar.QC‑3, Trg kralja Tomislava
16, tel. (+385-) 098 32 28 04. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed
A very welcome addition to an already busy area, Booze &
Blues is a part of New Orleans right here in Zagreb. Every
spirit you’d likely see on Bourbon Street, open late, and live
music Thursday, Friday, and Saturdays. There’s a Heineken
tap made from a functional saxophone which is worth a
visit alone.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 84, tel. (+385-1) 483 77 65,
www.booze-and-blues.com. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Thu,
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. PTJA6EBXW
Situated in the Ban Centar, urban meets Zen in this tranquil
yet modern atmosphere. An outdoor garden terrace creates an extremely peaceful and relaxing setting amongst
the contemporary and chic decor, a top escape from the
hustle and bustle of the city. Not just a great spot to sip
your morning coffee in peace, but also for a fun night out
on the town with friends. They offer a large selection of
wines, champagne by the glass, cognac, coffee and tea,
along with sandwiches, cakes, cocktails, smoothies, natural juices, cigars and whiskey. There’s something to suit
everyone’s taste! In addition, they host various musical
evenings with multimedia equipment and projectors
available for presentations.QC‑2, Ulica Augusta Cesarca
4 (Next to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića), tel. (+385-1) 484 53
93. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 11:00. PTJA6UEGBXW
Jiggy almost feels as if you’re entering some sort of WWII
shelter, but it’s very cosy within and very welcoming. The
venue is split so as to allow patrons to enjoy a quiet-ish
beer, or revel in whatever live music is playing. Funk, alt
rock, etc., just a few of the genres on offer, and this refacebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket
MOJO BAR, WINE RAKIJA & CO.
Enjoy a drink in the sunshine on the café terrace, overlooking the fountain, on Trg hrvatskih velikana, or enter
the underground bar and move into a smoky urban
style ambiance. Brick walls, adorned with black-andwhite pictures, create a mellow and calming atmosphere. A very large selection of wines and rakijas are
offered, which can be enjoyed at the live music nights,
featuring klapas on Mondays, rock cover bands on
Tuesdays, jazz bands on Wednesdays and DJs on the
weekends.QD‑2, Martićeva ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 091
526 67 33. Open 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.
PT A 6 E B X W
Leave your footprint at this American downtown-like
bar which is located on one of Zagreb’s most popular
walking streets. The outdoor patio is the perfect location to sit back with some friends and people watch.
Inside, the brick walls, graffiti style writing on a chalkboard and comfy couches create an urban feel. Usually featuring rock music on Friday nights and DJs on
Saturdays, make sure to check online for weekly event
details.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 82, tel. (+385-1) 553 35 27,
www.tabanzagreb.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 04:00. TJ 6 E N B X W
TESLA POWER HOUSE
Decked in modernity (at first glance), this central location features a set of open decks for regular DJ sets as
well as copious Tesla related decorations. Live music,
funk rock… Everything goes at this Zagreb dive bar.
Ideally located for those waiting for events in nearby
Kino Europa or on Trg.QB‑2, Varšavska 4, tel. (+385-)
098 955 81 94. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 02:00. PT J 6 E B X W
Make a night of it at ‘The Place Bar’ which offers more
than 35 world brands of bourbon and whiskey, over 10
brands of cognac, 12 brands of gin and 60 types of seAutumn 2016
Corner Bar Archives
If a country’s largest coffee company opens a venue, it
must be reasonable to assume that you’re going to be
happy with what’s on offer. There’s a reason why chains
like Starbucks don’t see Croatia as a viable market, even
though seemingly all anyone does here is drink coffee and
watch the world go by. More terrace space than you can
shake a stick at, and a great location at the corner of Zagreb’s main square. An expansive food menu, with daily
specials posted on site and on social media.QC‑2, Trg
bana Josipa Jelačića 9, tel. (+385-) 091 783 81 53, www.
johannfranck.hr. Open Mon - Thu, Sun 08:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. PJAGBX
Created as part of the Subcultural Center in Zagreb, Klub.
is a small and simple arched brick-walled space located
underground. It is accessible through the Joe Strummer
Square located in the courtyard of the complex shared
by the Beertija Club. Come check out a wide variety of
bands to suit any musical taste, from rock ‘n’ roll and indie to electronic and punk.QD‑3, Pavla Hatza 14, www.
subkulturnicentar.com.hr. Open Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat
20:00 - 04:00. NXW
Mojo Bar, Wine Rakija & co. Archives
lected wines. The mind boggling choices are matched by
its modern interior with a glowing effect. Judging by the
name, this is the place to be when it comes to having a
drink or more.QC‑2, Teslina 12, tel. (+385-1) 658 65 57,
www.theplacebar.eu. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30
- 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PTJ6ENBXW
VINTAGE INDUSTRIAL BAR
This American-like, rock and roll-feel bar has more than
just a few drinks to offer. Grab a beer on tap with some
friends and delight in a wide variety of concerts, dance
performances, theater acts, film screenings or even literary meetings. The brick walls, occasionally splashed with
graffiti and black and white photography, create the
perfect environment to wind-down. And best of all, you
don’t need to worry about parking because the front entrance is a spacious parking lot.QI‑4, Savska cesta 160,
tel. (+385-1) 619 17 15/(+385-) 098 34 00 20, www.
vintageindustrial-bar.com. Open 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
20:00 - 05:00, Sun 20:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. PT6
A wine and whiskey bar, Vinyl is still finding its feet but has
great potential. Beautifully decorated, with as much vinyl
adorning the walls as you might expect from the name, it
has the sense of those classic beatnik venues of the 1950s.
Food is advertised and there’s live music several nights a
week.QC‑2, Bogovićeva ulica 3, tel. (+385-1) 238 54 21.
Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 24:00. PJABXW
44 Zagreb In Your Pocket
A familiar name in Zagreb’s nightlife, but now in a new location. Peper Ilica 5, formerly Pepermint, still continues to
provide you with great music and great drink deals. Funk,
disco, pop, rockabilly, and soul. And soul is what this venue
has in abundance. Open all week round, it’s always worth
calling in to see what’s on that night. Entry is free up until
22:00 Wednesday and Thursday, and until 23:00 at the
weekend. We’ll see you there!QC‑2, Ilica 5, tel. (+385-)
091 393 99 38, www.pepermint-zagreb.com. Open
Wed, Thu 22:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. PJ
AG X W
This is the place to take in some live music, for it plays
here every night and is an especially delicious and wide
array of styles. Blues, jazz, rock, pop and much more are
all featured, and the crowd tends to be especially happy
for their chance to take the night of fun in. Admission
varies depending on the show - this place is a can’t miss.
QD‑3, Palmotićeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 36, www.
sax-zg.hr. Open 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.
SHOCK SHOW INDUSTRY - D KATRAN - TRIM
Located in an alleyway in Zagreb’s business district, this
grungy bar offers a variety of special events, including live concerts, film and dance nights. Shock Show
Industry, formerly Tvornica Katran, is still nicknamed,
‘Katran,’ by locals. It’s not just a regular club, but part of
a cultural association from Bjelovar, which was founded
in 1972, with a branch located in Zagreb. To attend an
event, don’t forget to make a reservation ahead of time.
QJ‑3, Radnička cesta 27 (door No 17, 2nd floor left),
tel. (+385-) 098 58 35 77, www.ssi.com.hr. Open Fri,
Sat 24:00 - 06:00. J6 E N X W
BIKERS BEER FACTORY
Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex
Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a
big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the
interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from
any bikers’ world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox
and good choice of foreign beer.Sounds like a ZZ Top
clip!QI‑4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63, www.
bikersbeerfactory.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00
- 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. PT 6 E N B X W
Croatia doesn’t really do pubs. Cafes and bistros
abound, but here you get to experience a little bit
of the Emerald Isle for yourself. This is Croatia’s only
true Irish pub, run as it is by a man from Offaly. You
would not be short something to do of an evening
were to drop in, with traditional Irish music regularly
featured, as well as the ubiquitous pub quiz and open
mic sessions. They’re also the only licenced premises
in Zagreb running a loyalty scheme, and if you’re fond
of your pint of plain then that’s a good thing.QI‑3,
Savska 36, tel. (+385-) 095 868 85 53. Open 10:00 24:00, Sat 15:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. PT 6
NB X W
Time Restaurant & Bar Archives
La Bodega Zagreb Archives
MIGHTY FINE WINE
This subterranean hideaway is modestly named: its
actually a cellar offering an unforgettable wine exploration experience. An exclusive selection of wines
from all over the country are complimented by local
cheeses, meats and sundries. Offering only Croatian
products, the blend of flavors available at excellent
prices creates a uniquely unforgettable adventure.
QB‑2, Tomićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 777 45 85, www.
basement-bar.net. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00
- 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PJAGBW
LA BODEGA ZAGREB
Conveniently located in the heart of the city centre,
this is a great spot for drinking some superb wines.
This chic and trendy wine bar at night, also offers a
breakfast and brunch menu for the early birds to enjoy the sights and sounds one of the most popular
street, Bogovićeva.QC‑2, Bogovićeva 5, tel. (+385-)
095 345 34 45, www.labodega.hr. Open 08:00 02:00. PiTJAEBXW
Johann Franck Archives
QK‑1/2, Maksimirski perivoj bb, https://zoo.hr/. October 1 - 29 Zoo is Open 09:00 - 18:00, ticket office 09:00
- 17:00. October 30 - January 29 Zoo is Open 09:00 16:00, ticket office 09:00 - 15:00. Admission 15 - 20kn.
Archaeological Museum in Zagreb Archives
Medvedgrad, Photo by Dalibor Brlek
BAN JOSIP JELAČIĆ SQUARE
(TRG BANA JOSIPA JELAČIĆA)
This Austro-Hungarian styled square is the true centre of
the city. There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping,
feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named
after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of
Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy
and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947
it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere
because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its
current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića.
MAKSIMIR PARK & THE CITY ZOO
(MAKSIMIRSKI PARK I ZOOLOŠKI VRT)
A perfect half-day outing for love birds, families, the fourlegged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes,
grasses and dirt are all a part of the equation as well as
clouds, a sky and periodically the very sun! Blaring car engines have been removed from this place and as such it’s a
great escape. The 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest
was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its
kind in this part of Europe. An added bonus, the city zoo
is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 or 12 from Trg bana
Josipa Jelačića east (Dubec) to the Bukovačka stop. The
entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of the street.
46 Zagreb In Your Pocket
Croats in the capital city don’t mess around with the homage they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to Mirogoj, Zagreb’s main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated
on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the
most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green cupolas
top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is
not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open
art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period
between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house
of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed
the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery,
applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions
and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting
There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes
15min and costs 10kn. You can also take tram N°14 from
the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out
at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).QJ‑1, Mirogoj bb.
ST MARK’S CHURCH (CRKVA SV. MARKA)
The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully
depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-ofarms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for
quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters
it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole
lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside,
highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s
most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković.
QC‑1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11.
STONE GATE (KAMENITA VRATA)
This archway was one of the four original entries into the
walled Gornji grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible
fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a
vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash
that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760
and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies
praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.
QC‑1, Kamenita bb.
THE CATHEDRAL OF ASSUMPTION OF THE
BLESSED VIRGIN MARY
(KATEDRALA MARIJINA UZNESENJA)
A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp
looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in
the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state
of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will
push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve
been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded;
Opatija Riviera Tourist Board Archives
1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In
the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges
by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically
destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where
the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious
damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes
place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised
skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00,
18:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30, 18:00.QC‑1,
Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. Open 10:00 - 17:00,
Sun 13:00 - 17:00.
TKALČIĆEVA (TKALČIĆEVA STREET)
You mustn’t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages you to
wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out the vibe,
read, write or sleep. You’ll be amazed by the sheer number
of people wandering around here late into the evening. It
provides a unique visual for a city that you’re starting to understand is very unique too!QC‑1, Tkalčićeva.
ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM IN ZAGREB
(ARHEOLOŠKI MUZEJ U ZAGREBU)
Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly
enhanced by moody sounds and lighting. Philosophical
musings often accompany explanations of the materials,
moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this
earth.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1)
487 30 00, www.amz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00
- 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10
ARTS AND CRAFTS MUSEUM
(MUZEJ ZA UMJETNOST I OBRT)
This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered
aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amazing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very
ornate and curious. Mobile guides in foreign languages
are available. People with special needs also have guides.
These services do not cost extra.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita
10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Open 10:00 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 40kn. U
CONTEMPORARY ART MUSEUM
(MUZEJ SUVREMENE UMJETNOSTI)
Founded in 1954, the museum has relocated to a impressive building as you pass the Sava River. The collection here allows for the avant-garde to speak for
itself with an excellent range of paintings, sculpture,
video art and photography. Mobile guides in foreign
languages available as well as free wi-fi connection.
QJ‑4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00,
www.msu.hr. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon. Tickets 15 - 30kn. U
CROATIAN SCHOOL MUSEUM
(HRVATSKI ŠKOLSKI MUZEJ)
Trace the development of the school system in this part
of the world right up to the present day. Fun for educators
and kids alike. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide
can be organized.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita 4/1, tel. (+3851) 485 57 16, www.hsmuzej.hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu
10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 10 - 15kn.
DRAŽEN PETROVIĆ MUSEUM
(MUZEJ DRAŽEN PETROVIĆ)
Croatian sensation Dražen Petrović, the one nicknamed
‘basketball’s Mozart’ is Europe’s greatest ever basketball
export. The museum presents winning medals, rewards,
personal items, letters and gifts from fans. A guided tour in
English is available if you pre-book for a group of 15.QA‑4,
Trg Dražena Petrovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 31 46, www.
drazenpetrovic.net. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn. U
High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through
the ages. Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time.
Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals
and groups in English will cost 150kn per tour.QB‑3, Trg
Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, www.emz.hr.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 15 - 20kn. U
MEŠTROVIĆ ATELIER - IVAN MEŠTROVIĆ MUSEUMS (ATELIJER MEŠTROVIĆ - MUZEJI IVAN
Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and
artist. He actually lived with his family and worked in this
house from 1920’s until 1942 when he left Croatia. And it
is here where he completed many of his art works and
monuments including The Indians - a monument in Chicago.QB‑1, Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, www.
mestrovic.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.
MODERN GALLERY (MODERNA GALERIJA)
The Modern Gallery is one of the richest of its kind in all
of Croatia; rich in culture that is. Located in the centre of
Zagreb, in the Vranyczany Palace built during the 1880s,
it hosts permanent exhibits featuring more than 750
works of modern and ultra-modern art from painters,
sculptors, as well others who work in new media. From
the staircase and grand lobby, to the halls on the first and
second floors, visitors are presented with a harmonious
image of cohabitation of old and new, yesterday and
today, as more than two centuries of Croatian modern
art await.QC‑3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604
10 40/(+385-1) 604 10 55, www.moderna-galerija.hr.
Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 30 - 40kn. U
48 Zagreb In Your Pocket
MUSEUM OF BROKEN RELATIONSHIPS
(MUZEJ PREKINUTIH VEZA)
Filled with mementos of relationships that have in one
way or another - gone wrong! It first started here in
Zagreb and has toured around the world stockpiling
an amazing array of items and descriptions that may
have you thinking twice. Funny yet serious, it won the
Kenneth Hudson Award in 2011 for the most innovative European Museum.Q C‑1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 2, tel.
(+385-1) 485 10 21, www.brokenships.com. Open
09:00 - 21:00. Admission 20 - 30kn.
Photo by Marša Gajinov
MUSEUM OF ILLUSIONS
Test your perception at this amazingly new and unique
Museum in this part of Europe where things do not appear as they should, and that is where the fun begins.
An adventure of visual and sensual stimuli is broken into
two floors; hologram pictures dominate the first floor and
hands on displays are on the second floor. It’s open for all
ages and in both Croatian/English. Find the solutions to
all of the illusions!QB‑2, Ilica 72, tel. (+385-1) 799 96 09,
www.muzejiluzija.com. Open 09:00 – 22:00. Tickets 25
- 40kn. Family ticket 100kn (includes two adults plus
Croatian Institute of History, Dvorišta Archives
ORIS HOUSE OF
The Oris House of Architecture is an all-encompassing
hub of architecture, design and art (Multimedia culture centre). It’s a creative meeting place that hosts
conferences, lectures and seminars dedicated to the
arts. There’s a multimedia hall, library, and even a restaurant with chairs donated by architects from around
the world. QD‑3, Kralja Držislava 3, tel. (+385-1) 377
81 77, www.oris.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 21:00. Closed Sun.
Throughout the autumn period, you’ll find many interesting exhibitions:
15.10 - 5.11 » PEZO VON ELLRICHSHAUSEN NO MORE NO LESS
15.10 - 5.11 » UMBERTO BONOMO - CONTEMPORARY CHILEAN ARCHITECTURE
8.11 - 24.11 » FRANCO ALBINI
30.11 - 8.12 » ZLATKO UGLJEN
TECHNICAL MUSEUM NIKOLA TESLA
(TEHNIČKI MUZEJ NIKOLA TESLA)
All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellorpowered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites,
space stations and a planetarium where you can view
a simulation of the night sky. Pre-bookings for a foreign
language guide can be organized.QA‑4, Savska cesta 18,
tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr. Open
09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 20kn. Planetarium admission 15kn.
THE CROATIAN MUSEUM OF NAIVE ART
(HRVATSKI MUZEJ NAIVNE UMJETNOSTI)
Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of
painting. This museum is home to about 80 paintings
and the imagery is undeniably fascinating. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at
a charge of 200 - 300kn for every 30 minutes.QC‑1, Sv.
Ćirila i Metoda 3, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, www.hmnu.
hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission
15 - 25kn.
THE MIMARA MUSEUM (MUZEJ MIMARA)
The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load
of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it
at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and
much more. It spans an amazing three millennia and
much of it Christian in theme. If you pre-book for a
group of 20 people minimum, then a guide is available in English.QB‑3, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel.
(+385-1) 482 81 00, www.mimara.hr. Open 10:00 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 30 - 40kn. U
ZAGREB CITY MUSEUM
(MUZEJ GRADA ZAGREBA)
With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps
elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia
as an independent country in the 20th century especially.
Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option
for an educational experience with the kids. There is also
a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly
awesome place! Mobile guides in foreign languages are
available in addition to special guides for the blind.QC‑1,
Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, www.mgz.hr. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U
ART PAVILION (UMJETNIČKI PAVILJON)
A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on
Trg kralja Tomislava. Inside you’ll find a superb home for all
kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries
of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top.
Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra.QC‑3, Trg kralja
Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, www.umjetnickipaviljon.hr. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri 11:00 - 21:00. Closed
Mon. Admission varies depending on exhibition.
LAUBA – THE HOUSE FOR PEOPLE AND ART
(KUĆA ZA LJUDE I UMJETNOST LAUBA)
Known as the House for People and Art, it has a collection of
500 works created over the last 60 years and includes some of
the greatest names in recent Croatian art. Exhibitions change
monthly. The perfect setting for art and interaction!QH‑3,
Photo by Eli Gajinov
50 Zagreb In Your Pocket
THE CROATIAN SOCIETY OF ARTISTS
Circular and galleried, lit up at night in neon colours, this
building designed by pre-eminent Croatian sculptor Ivan
Meštrović is a stunning piece of architecture. As its popular name džamija testifies, it was converted to a mosque
in World War II. Restored to its original purpose in 1993,
the gallery is now an exhibition space for all forms of visual arts, while a new mosque has been purpose-built in
the Borovje neighbourhood.QTrg žrtava fašizma 16, tel.
(+385-1) 461 18 19/(+385-1) 461 18 18, www.hdlu.hr.
Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
ZAGREB WELCOMES YOU - MODEL CITY
Measuring just under 13 square metres in area, “Zagreb
Welcomes You” is a scale model of much of the Croatian
capital, and is situated on Bakačeva which is the street
leading from the main square, up to Kaptol. The entire
piece features over 2500 addresses, and over 400 distinct
structures, all cast beautifully in bronze. The south and
west facing sides of the model feature short texts referencing the history of Zagreb in both Croatian and English,
and they also showcase the seal of Kaptol. Also along the
base you can see a number of scenes which depict holidays tied to Croatia and the capital. The model was sculpted by Professor Damir Mataušić, and has already ‘replaced’
the clock on Trg ban Jelačić as the default meeting place
for many of the locals.QC‑2, Ulica Tome Bakača.
GRIČ TUNNEL (TUNEL GRIČ)
Built during WWII as a shelter, this 350-metre long tunnel
was recently opened to the public and is located between
Radićeva and Mesnička Streets in the heart of the city centre.
A range of cultural events are set to be hosted there whilst in
the meantime it is a fine safe-haven if having to escape the
hustle and bustle of the city.QB/C‑2, Open 09:00 - 21:00.
These places have that unmistakeable air of the bizarre,
eclectic and/or funky hanging about them making them
a perfect destination.
Baruna Filipovića 23a, tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15, www.lauba.
hr. Open 14:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 - 25kn. U
THE CROATIAN STATE ARCHIVES
On Marulić Square - part of the splendid, architecturally planned Green Horseshoe - stands a grand Art Nouveau building - one of the finest piece of architecture
in Zagreb. This building now houses the Croatian State
Archive, the home of documentation of state importance. The Reading Room, which has undergone a full
restoration completed at the end of 2004, is particularly fine. Guided tours are available in English, German
or Croatian at 10:00, 13:00 and 14:00. 20kn per person.
QB‑4, Marulićev trg 21, tel. (+385-1) 480 19 99/
(+385-1) 482 92 44, 480 19 21, www.arhiv.hr. Open
08:15 - 15:45, Fri 08:15 - 14:45. Closed Sat, Sun.
THE LOTRŠČAK TOWER AND GRIČ CANNON
(KULA LOTRŠČAK I GRIČKI TOP)
If in Zagreb you hear the blast of cannon fire, fear not,
it simply means it’s midday. This auditory onslaught is
not an elaborate pigeon-scaring scheme. According
to one legend, a cannon shot from the Lotrščak tower
soared over the river Sava and landed in the Turks’ encampment, right on a platter of chicken that was being
carried to the Pasha for his lunch. The Pasha decided
against attacking a city of fearsome sharpshooters so
Zagreb escaped invasion. Since this ace shot was fired
at noon, a cannon has been fired at that time from the
same tower ever since. Sited in the Upper Town, the
tower originally was part of the city’s defences, and
later served as a prison. Nowadays, it houses a gallery and an art shop, and the view from the top is well
worth the climb.QB/C‑2, Strossmayerovo šetalište 9.
Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Quite possibly the shortest funicular, or indeed any tracked
transportation, in the world. Starting just off Ilica you can
hitch a ride for 4kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower that
guards the entrance to Gornji grad, that is of course if you
can’t be bothered to spend 30 seconds climbing the steps
that run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst
us!QB‑2, Tomićeva bb, www.zet.hr. Open 06:30 - 22:00.
THE ALTAR OF ST. ROCCO
Sometimes we innocently fail to see the beauty of something until we learn about the efforts gone into its creation.
The altar of St. Rocco which is now placed in the Chapel of
St. Rocco and located in the park overlooking the British
Square, has survived its own Calvary. It was originally built
in 1755 by city guilds and placed in St. Mark’s Church; it
carried the name the altar of the Holy Trinity, St. John the
Baptist and Evangelist. The quality of altars back then were
categorised by colour and their exaggerated baroque
decorations. At the time, Bishop Josip Juraj Strossmayer
thought that many altars, though beautiful, were not spiritually inspiring and ordered a complete revamp; hence
the altar was subsequently given a new home, new look
and new name. The end of the 19th century saw the altar
themed with a statue of St. Rocco and a dog carrying a
piece of bread in its mouth. Two centuries later, a fire in
the 1970s destroyed the right side of the altar and after
extensive restoration; it was possible to once again see the
altar in its original design. QB‑2, St. Rocco Chapel, Rokov
Perhaps the most famous relic in Croatia is kept at the Archaeological Museum. The mummified body from Thebes
was bought by Mihael Bari in Egypt in 1848-49, which you
may think seems perfectly reasonable, yet the mummy is
Etruscan and had no business being across the Mediterfacebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket
ranean. The Etruscans controlled large parts of west Italy,
including modern day Tuscany, from around 8 to 5 B.C. and
only basics of their language, which is pre-indo-European,
are understood. The Zagreb Mummy, like many celebrities,
is actually more famous for her clothes than her personal
talents. After her owner died it was discovered that the
bandages the mummy was wrapped in are strips of a book
made of linen. This book is the longest preserved text in
the Etruscan language and appears to be something similar to a liturgical calendar. The mummy is on permanent
display but her bonds are locked away and only revealed
to experts.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19.
ZAGREB’S SOLAR SYSTEM
The solar system in space? Pah! We’ve got one right here in
Zagreb. If you’ve ever wondered what the great big metal
ball in Bogovićeva ulica is, the answer is, of course, the sun
- a sculpture made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971. In 2004 Davor
Preis created a scale model of the solar system around this
mighty Sun, including planets at the following urban locations: Mercury - Margaretska 3, Venus - Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, Earth - Varšavska 9, Mars - Tkalčićeva
21, Jupiter - Voćarska 71, Saturn - Račićeva 1, Uranus
- Siget 9, Neptune - Kozari put, Pluto - Aleja Bologne
(underpass). Preis never revealed the locations of the
planets, so finding them turned into a game lasting until
the last planet was “discovered” in 2006. It’s a great way
to get a feel for the dimensions of the solar system and to
discover random corners of the city.
and the art of gastronomy also. It is close to being a ‘home
of culture’. The restaurant is certainly special because it is
part of this institution and a sense of cultural and respectful
communication is felt in every area, both in the exhibition
hall, as well as in our Forcimer, and then in Voncimer as well.
ZIYP: In various restaurants we can see different exhibitions and occasional guest appearances by various
authors, but mostly works on walls, yet in Voncimer
there is a small treasure and a permanent exhibition
of chairs that can be seen only here. Who are the authors of these chairs? How old are they? Where did
they come from and which do you like to sit on the
Andrija Rusan: Voncimer is definitely special for its variety of chairs and armchairs. Naturally, this is not the first
time that something like this has happened in a restaurant,
but I believe it is quite rare that every chair would have a
story, a special value, a known donor, and each donor here
is a friend of Oris. Stylistically, the chairs are completely
different, they come from different cultures, from all over
the world, they are simple, cheap, demanding, and mostly
comfortable (not all though .......). To me, the chairs by Otto
Wagner, Bernardo Bernardi, Zlatko Ugljen are dear to me...
each is special, each one of them .
Arge 2, ST 6, Dietmar Steiner
MERGING OF GASTRONOMY
ARHITECTURE AND ART
Restaurant Voncimer (see page 28) emerged as the
sheer desire of a group of people who run the Oris House
of Architecture (Kralja Držislava 3, city centre, near
Meštrović Pavilion also known as Džamija, see page 46)
and were keen on setting up a place which not only promotes culture and art but also the art of gastronomy. The
project design was created in the architectural studio
named Rusan Architecture.
The name Voncimer (original German: Wohnzimmer = living
room) was chosen because we wanted to be in a space where
people feel at home, as in their own living room, dining room
.... And it seems that this is how it has been accepted.
ZIYP: The project itself is interesting as it is located
within the Oris House of Architecture. How did the
idea of the merging of gastronomy and architecture
and art in general come about? What was the guiding
principle for the creation of such a restaurant? How
was it meant to be unique?
Andrija Rusan: Oris the House of Architecture is an association that has been publishing the Oris magazine for
18 years straight. Recently, we published the centennial
edition. We fixed this venue one and a half years ago so
that we could maintain and host exhibitions, lectures, promotions and presentations, in order to give all interested
parties the opportunity to carry out their quality programs.
So this is not just a house of architecture, but of all arts,
52 Zagreb In Your Pocket
ZIYP: Recently, we tried a range of dishes by the new
Ukrainian chef who pleasantly surprised us, and with
a great new dessert also? In a few words, enlighten us
on the concept of the cuisine offer at Voncimer, and
what would you recommend from the menu?
Andrija Rusan: Yes, Konstantin is a great Ukrainian master
of cooking derived from European culture, behaviour, and
life. His art and his smile is certainly the wealth of the Voncimer restaurant. Restaurant managers Tetiana and Andrii
form with him the ‘trio fantasticus’ that deserves great attention. You will not be sorry if you engage in a thorough
test of their menu. Start from the top. I find it difficult to
single something out. Ask yourself, your stomach and your
body as to what suits you on the day. You might not like
everything, but you will certainly enjoy most things. We all
have our preferences, and that is how the menu was first
created. There is something for everyone. But best of all is
that you do not have to believe my every word, it is best to
see it for yourself. Let me know how it goes!
Photo by Daniela Kos
Turing back the clock to 1910, a vivid transformation occurred
that would leave a major imprint on the city of Zagreb. Low
and behold, electric trams finally replaced the classical and
most worthy horse trams that diligently served city folk for
many years. A century later, today’s tram network consists of
116 km of railway coordinated in fifteen day and four night
Amongst these, one tram number is very specific and that is
tram number 13. It was put into operation way back in 1911
and its route consisted of Ban Jelačić Square - Kaptol - Nova
Ves - Gupčeva zvijezda - Mirogoj. After a tragic accident on
October 31, 1954, both the tram line and tram 13 were discontinued. After forty-two years, the tram with the number 13
returned to function and rides between Žitnjak to Kvaternik
So what exactly can be seen on tram 13? Firstly, the line encompasses 27 stations from beginning till end and the route
passes by some of Zagreb’s major sights, cultural institutions
and locations that you should certainly visit. If you board tram
13 the entire ride takes approximately an hour from start to
finish, depending on traffic of course.
Here at IYP, we can’t help but recommend you start your journey from the central station at Ban Jelačić Square and head
towards the direction that interests you most. Decisions…
decisions… If you happen to start from Žitnjak, you’ll pass
through one of the older suburbs of Peščenica, where you
will find the Church of Blessed Augustine Kažotić which is
famous for its contemporary architectural design. Vukovarska
Street is the lengthiest part of the route where you can see
the remains of socialist architecture. The intersection with
Držićeva has blocks of residential buildings inspired by the ‘father of modern architecture’ Charles - Edouard Jeanneret
- Le Corbusier; a typical example is the residential block Vukovarska 35 - 35a, not to mention state institutions such as
the Palace of Justice or the Public Open University. The
Lisinski Concert Hall, which is also one of the largest concert halls in Croatia, was built in 1973 in honour of the great
Croatian composer Vatroslav Lisinski who wrote the first
Croatian opera, ‘Love and Malice’. Opposite the hall, there is
the extensive and lush university meadow with fountains
which use holograms to mark major events and holidays,
and in warmer days also serve to refresh. Turning towards
Savska Street, one moves to a busier and livelier cultural
part of the city with the Dražen Petrović Museum,
Technical Museum, Mimara Museum, Museum of
Arts and Crafts, the Croatian National Theatre, Academy of Music, and the Gavella Theatre. And then you
finally arrive to the well-known Ilica Street which is also
one of the longest streets in town (the 4th largest to be
exact). In just a few minutes, from perusing the river to
watching people stroll along Ilica Street amongst more
shops, ice cream parlours and cafes, you reach the inaugural main square. Look to the left, and what time is it?
Glance at Ban Jelačić Square, give the Duke on the horse
a salute then move along towards the Lenuci horseshoe
and beautiful Zrinjevac Park which boasts a gorgeous
Bollé fountain. On the right side of the Archaeological
Museum and the Museum of Modern Art sits one of the
first hotels in Zagreb, the Palace Hotel, which overlooks
the beautiful park and Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters. Then to the King Tomislav Square aka ‘Tomislavac’
and its nearby Art Pavilion, from there you get a view of
the main railway station next to which is the historical and
classical Hotel Esplanade, built in 1925 and for the most
famous ‘Orient Express’ which ran from Paris to Istanbul
and passed through Zagreb. Branimirova Street is next on
the agenda and the ‘Branimir Centre’ is located at the intersection with Draškovićeva Street, this is where the first
production of biscuits and chocolate called ‘UNION’, later
known as ‘Kraš’ used to operate. Did someone just say
chocolate? Hmmm… Scrumptious! A mere two stations
further, we arrive at the Croatian Association of Artists
(Meštrović Pavilion) i.e. Džamija (the former mosque). And
two stations thereafter is the final destination, Kvatrić.
Walk through the market place, sip on coffee, nibble on
cake and enjoy the city life.
Fun Fact: ZET vehicles run the entire length of the equator
three fold and on a daily basis. In terms of a yearly scale...
they travel the equivalent of 109 trips to the moon and back!
A GOOD OLD VINYL
CD shop, extensive selection outside the mainstream.
QB‑2, Gundulićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 50, www.
dancingbear.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00.
Closed Sun. A
DIRTY OLD SHOP
The one stop ideal shop for all lovers of vinyl, comics, tshirts with cool prints, posters, original figures of characters from favorite shows, bands, movies and all retro to
cool!QI‑3, Tratinska 18, tel. (+385-1) 557 38 88, www.
dirtyoldempire.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun.
Ulični Ormar Archives
A woman’s fetish isn’t far away as the heart of Zagreb and
its outskirts is full of shopping centres. Each centre can be
reached by tram or bus with the Kaptol Centre and Centar
Cvjetni walking distance from the main square. The bigger
centres require public transport and include Avenue Mall in
Novi Zagreb, Arena Centre in Lanište, City Centre One West
in Jankomir, Point Shopping Centre in Vrbani, City Centre
One East in Žitnjak, and Garden Mall in Dubrava. What else
can we say but, ‘shop till you drop’!
Lamps, candlesticks, decorative bottles and other unique
stuff.QA‑2, Ilica 61, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 96. Open 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
Antiques, furniture, arts and crafts, jewellery and all kinds
of other stuff.QC‑1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 98,
www.galerijakerubin.com.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
CROATIAN DESIGN SUPERSTORE
Totally new concept store bringing the finest in Croatian
design to the forefront! This pop-up shop includes fashion,
gastronomy, kitchen & tableware, decor, jewellery, lighting
and furniture. It’s a fab place to find unique gifts and original souvenirs that are designed and produced in Croatia.
Also, the cafe, which is located within the store, offers
great cups of coffee and refreshing smoothies, cocktails,
craft beers and wines, plus loads of homemade snacks on
a daily basis from 09:00 till 21:00.QD‑2, Martićeva 4, tel.
(+385-1) 580 65 65, www.croatiandesignsuperstore.
com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Shop till you drop store packed with hand-made Croatian designer products including lamps, unique ceramics,
gifts for kids, jewelry and accessories. And with friendly
staff who are happy to tell you a little story behind each
item, why not bring home that perfect souvenir? So come
in and take a peek!QC‑1, Radićeva 27, tel. (+385-1) 481
32 94. Open 09:00 - 13:30, 16:00 - 20:00.Sat, Sun Open
10:00 - 15:00.
A recently established fixture in the field of interior design,
this is certainly worth a curious visit for the casual passerby, and a must-visit by anyone considering opening some
avant-garde gallery or restaurant. In addition to Ana’s own
expertise, the shop stocks and hosts sculptures and artisanal jewellery.QB‑2, Dežmanova 4, tel. (+385-1) 580 16
76, www.anatevsic.com. Open 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00
- 14:00. Closed Sun.
TAKE ME HOME - CROATIAN DESIGN SHOP
The perfect place to pick up some chic Croatian souvenirs and gifts created by over 60 designers. Tote bags and
purses with traditional Croatian motifs printed on modern
designs, unique jewellery, trendy daily planners and notebooks, plus all sorts of other creative knick-knacks and
handmade mementos are all offered to remember your
trip by.QB‑2, Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, www.
takemehome.hr. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. A
FASHION BOUTIQUE DORA
Just for the ladies, boutique Dora is a traditional family business that has been designing and manufacturing beautiful women’s clothing for over 30 years. Dora is
known for their quality production and feminine designs.
Every pattern is made either bespoke or in a small series,
and always of the finest natural fabrics. Authentic and
tailor made for you!QC‑1, Kamenita 2, tel. (+385-1) 485
17 63, www.dora-zagreb.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. JA
MARA ETNO BUTIK
A little boutique run by the charming Vesna Milković, who
specialises in fashion design incorporating materials and
motifs drawing on Croatian cultural heritage. Her fine lace
tops and bags make delightful and unique gifts or souvenirs at sensible prices. Items made to order.QB‑2, Ilica
49, tel. (+385-1) 480 65 11, www.etnobutik-mara.com.
Open 10:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A
Jewellery from two end of the spectrum, choose from
modern and original designs to jewellery which has been
nurturing the family tradition since 1924. Also at A-2 Ilica
69, tel.(+385-1) 484 69 41. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00. Closed Sun.QB‑2, Ilica 37, tel. (+385-1) 483 36 23,
www.zlatarnica-bashota.hr. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 16:00
- 20:00. Sat Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
They opened in 1971, and since then have been producing
unique and one-of-a-kind pieces of jewellery. With a large
collection of handmade gold and silver antique pieces, as
well as traditional Croatian jewellery, adorned with precious and semi precious gemstones, they offer something
for everyone.QC‑2, Ulica Nikole Jurišića 10, tel. (+385-1)
481 09 02, www.zlatarna-jozef-gjoni.hr. Open 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. JA
54 Zagreb In Your Pocket
LAPIDARIUM - ZLATARNA MARIO
Looking for a piece of jewelry that’s truly one-of-a-kind
and fits your unique individualized style? Then look no
further because Lapidarium offers the perfect solution
to your search. Not only do they supply finished jewelry,
but they also allow customers to create their own customized pieces for every type of occasion.QC‑1, Radićeva 10,
www.zlatarna-mario.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00
- 15:00. Closed Sun. JA
Specializing in handmade modern jewelry, since 1938,
these contemporary and unique pieces were created by
goldsmith, Renato Medaković.QC‑2, Frane Petrića 2, tel.
(+385-1) 481 27 49/(+385-) 098 182 64 70. Open 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N
A not to be missed shoe shop and design studio in one.
Waltz in and pick out some soft leather and skinny straps
to wrap around your feet. Anita’s shoes are walking sex.
QD‑2, Martićeva 19, www.ashoo.net. Open 12:00 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N
Located on Praška Street, Bagatt has opened up in Croatia
for the first time. The Milan based company still maintains
a complete blend of tradition and modernity in their shoe
The brand Alberto Guardiani is synonym for quality Italian shoes and can now be found at Nicholas Shoe store, in
Jurišićeva Street 1. The men’s line includes shoes, sneakers,
slippers and sandals that appeal to those who appreciate
quality in an elegant, modern and value for money way.
For the ladies the women’s collection includes shoes and
sneakers with full soles, and with thick heels that last year
had recorded its great ‘comeback’ in the fashion world. To
complicate your decisions in which shoes to buy, footwear
from the Filling Pieces brand is also available, the Amsterdam based company have sent a wave around the world
with their crossover mix between high-end fashion shoes
and smooth street wear.QD‑2, Jurišićeva 1, tel. (+385-1)
481 34 01, www.nicholasshoes.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00,
Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
Praška Street 10
Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00
line production. The décor is second to none and
matches all the glamour found in any of their worldwide stores. New models are always released and
stay in tune with all the latest in fashion trends!QC‑2,
Praška 10, tel. (+385-1) 484 11 24, www.bagatt.it.
Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 16:00.
Croatia’s largest shoe producer which manufactures and
exports new collections as well as redesigned classics
such as the already popular Startas which happens to
be celebrating its 40th anniversary. There is Boromina,
Borosana, My Ballerinas and more, so it’s best to hop into
a store for a truly 100% authentic Croatian souvenir or
gift…QC‑2, Preradovićeva 16, tel. (+385-1) 485 45 52,
www.borovo.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. A
Take your pick with their wide range of world famous delicacies.QI‑2, Nova Ves 17 (Centre Kaptol), tel. (+385-1)
486 07 89, www.bonkulovic.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00.
Closed Sun. A
All kinds of teas to collect and sip. Brits: this is the only pure
teahouse in town that we know of.QD‑2, Iblerov trg 10 (Importanne Galleria), tel. (+385-1) 483 37 11, www.cajoteka.com/.
Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
Crop Store is a great place to call into if you’re hunting for
Croatian gifts whether they be the ubiquitous red heart or
a bottle of Istrian wine. Here you will find everything from
artisanal chocolate to olive oil, from liqueurs to truffles and
honey. If we were to list everything then we’d still be typing. Please, go in, peruse the shelves, thank us later.QC‑1,
Tkalčićeva 28, www.crop.com.hr. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
Grandma Lavender - dolls stuffed with lavender made from pieces
of traditional fabrics, Take Me Home Croatian Design Shop Archives
Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a
store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves,
and more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata
boasts several entirely unique designs so gifts from
here can be that much more special. Also at Kaptol 13,
Av. Dubrovnik 16 (shopping center Avenue Mall), Vice
Vukova 6 (shopping center Arena).QC‑2, Ilica 5 (Oktogon), tel. (+385-) 645 70 52, www.croata.hr. Open
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
56 Zagreb In Your Pocket
GALERIJA KULIN GALOVIĆ
Try one of the best Slavonian kulens (dried minced
pork) as well as famous Slavonian truffles or čvarci
(dried pork fat). It is a meat-lovers oasis!QE‑2, Vlaška
78, tel. (+385-1) 457 20 05, www.kulingalovic.
com/. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed
A food gallery, specialising in various meats. A tradition
beginning in the 19th Century, this is a favourite of the
locals in spite of its expense. Famous for their pates,
kulen (spiced Slavonian meat) and various other dried
meat.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 4, tel. (+385-1)
487 56 03, www.gavrilovic.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00.
Closed Sun. JA
KREDENCA GIFT SHOP
Bring home a small part of Croatia with authentic products manufactured from all four corners of the country.
This cute store has something for everyone including
liqueurs, rakija (for tasting), olive oil, honey, jam, wines,
natural cosmetics, jewellery, souvenirs, decorative objects made of ceramic and Murano glass and more.QC‑1,
Radićeva 13, tel. (+385-) 091 278 20 40/(+385-1) 562 65
79; (+385-) 091 544 72 94, www.kredenca.com. Open
08:30 - 21:30. A
KUĆA ZELENOG ČAJA
A teahouse selling dozens of aromatised black, green,
white, herbal, fruit and rooibos teas.QB‑2, Ilica 14 (Passage Lovački rog), tel. (+385-1) 483 06 67, www.
kucazelenogcaja.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 16:00. Closed Sun. JA
A lovely little shop selling a specialist selection
of rakije and other Croatian delicacies.QC‑3, Petra Preradovića 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 50 76, www.
naturacroatica.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00
- 16:00. Closed Sun. A
Unique, regional flavors fill cured meats, cheeses, olive oils, truffels are offered along with most any other
palatte-pleasing product. Delight the senses with some
cultural spelunking and souvenir indulgence.QE‑2,
Martićeva 14c, tel. (+385-1) 457 99 11. Open 09:00 21:00. Closed Sun. A
This Indian retail features a great selection of high-quality merchandise of fresh spices, gourmet food, Indian
tea varieties, basmati rice, lentils, cosmetics and many
other grocery products through to personal care, apparel and more. It’s a small store but packed with goodies for a taste of curry in a hurry!QD-3, Mrazovićeva 9,
tel. (+385-1) 457 91 90, www.spiceup.eu. Open 09:00
- 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
BLOSSOM & BLOOM
Inspired by an incompatible love for flowers, this is one florist gallery that tailors entire bouquets and gift packages
according to your needs. They merge carefully picked and
only the finest roses with elegant design creations and
handmade boxes. From chocolates to champagne and
macaroons, surprise a loved one with a memorable gift
from Blossom. They deliver too!QB‑2, Gundulićeva 5,
tel. (+385-1) 467 85 08, www.blossom-bloom.hr. Open
10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J
MAKS studio has for years been the place where artists and
designers could come together to share their creations and
creative solutions. After collaborating together for so long,
MAKS studio designer Saša Maksimiljanović, decided that
the next logical step would be to open a store where all
their brands could come together in one place. The
location now has an entire range of different brands, including MAKS studio, Naša posla, Gooma brand, bi.bi jewelery/
watches, Gorana Gulišija, Dinići Đenka Ivanišević, Cabinet.K,
Vrecha & Co.QC‑2, Teslina 9 (In the yard), tel. (+385-1) 481
06 06. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.
JASMINA I LUTKICE
A beautiful and unique collection of handmade dolls and
stuffed animals.QD‑3, Petrinjska 40, tel. (+385-) 098 79
57 73. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Accessorize with handmade designs inspired by Gothic,
Lolita and Pinup.QB‑2, Masarykova 14, tel. (+385-1) 487
26 59, www.udrugakloto.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
PROSTOR MANUFAKTURNE SLOBODE (PMS)
An ideal place for all those who devour and appreciate
hand-crafts and new age ideas.QC‑2, Tkalčićeva 61.
Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A
Homing their own collection as well as boasting a well
chosen assortment of European fashion brands.QC‑3, Petra Preradovića 34, tel. (+385-1) 485 46 81, www.roba.
com.hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed
SAŠA ŠEKORANJA GALLERY
Famous flower sculptor has opened a floral gallery in
Dežmanova Street which will host works, exhibitions,
book promotions and more.QB‑2, Dežmanov prolaz 1,
tel. (+385-1) 484 70 70. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00. Closed Sun. N
STRIPOVI NA KVADRAT
An abundance of comics from this part of Europe as well as
the best known English editions are hot off the press here.
Heaps of figurines, t-shirts, badges, toys, games, DVDs and
gifts are also available and their website is updated with
the latest releases.QC‑3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. (+3851) 483 77 77, www.stripovi.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat
09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
Take Me Home - Croatian Design ShopQB-2, Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, info@takemehome.
hr, www.takemehome.hr. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat
10:00 - 15:00
CITY CENTRE SHOPPING
ART SHOP KLOVIĆEVI DVORI
Souvenirs that prove you do indeed have the soul of an
artist.QC‑1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26. Open
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. A
Kaplja Raincoat, Cerovečki Archives
5 MUSEUM SHOP FINDS
ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM SHOP
Take home a piece of history with you today from the
museum souvenir shop. Items include: ushepti figurines,
tripartite jugs, the head of a Pharaoh and many, many
more.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1)
487 31 01, www.amz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. A
Ulični OrmarQD-2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1)
492 65 00, email@example.com. Open 10:00 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00
HNK ART SHOP
Amble into the souvenir shop where you can find T-shirts
with Hamlet prints, DVD monographs, War and Peace
postcards, umbrellas, cups, puzzles and other fancy
items with motifs from different theatre shows.QB‑3,
Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, www.hnk.
hr. Usually operates every evening when there are
shows on. A
A great choice of books and works by Croatian and international designers.QJ‑5, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel.
(+385-1) 605 27 58, www.msu.hr. Open 11:00 - 19:00,
Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
Istra square, Arena Centar Archives
Gifts inspired by the collection in the lovely Museum of Arts
and Crafts.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21
10/(+385-1) 488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00,
Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. A
Spice UpQD-3, Mrazovićeva 9, tel. (+385-1) 457 91
90, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.spiceup.eu.
Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00
Coral necklace, Bashota Archives
58 Zagreb In Your Pocket
Fashion Boutique DoraQC-1, Kamenita 2, tel.
(+385-1) 485 17 63, email@example.com, www.
dora-zagreb.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00
01.10 - 08.10 » VINTAGE FESTIVAL
Welcome to a unique blend of 1940s, 50s and 60s music,
fashion, film, art, dance and design with pin ups, barbers,
jive, lindy hop, a vintage market, old-timers, vespas, and
a whole lot more. Step back in time to a golden era with
plenty of ‘shake, rattle and roll’.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa
Entrance hall, Esplanade Zagreb Hotel Archives
10.11 - 12.11» PSSST! THE 10TH FESTIVAL OF
See film through a different light, this is where the audio
background of a film is removed and the organisers provide a alternative sound accompaniment. Modern day film
makers and amateur enthusiasts are more than welcome
to contribute. In addition, see masterpieces of the silent
film genre as well as contemporary works. Pssst! Remember, shhh!QH‑4, Centar za kulturu Trešnjevka, Park Stara
Trešnjevka 1, www.festivalnijemogfilma.com.
FOR LESS CASH
Senti Mental Bikes, Vintage Zagreb Festival Archives
Are you one who fancies fashion, music, film, dance, and
even the interiors of the 1920s, 30s, 40s, 50s or 60s? Then
prepare to step back in time as many of the city’s events,
museums, shops, cafes and restaurants are about to revive
the good old days. Early October is when the ‘Vintage Festival’ opens whilst in November, ‘Silent Black and White films’
will be screened. And by November 20, the Ethnographic
Museum will host the exhibition,‘ A Handful of Beards’. All
lovers of vintage vehicles will enjoy the Ferdinand Budicki
Museum of cars, whilst fans of fashion and accessories
should not miss Ulični Ormar (Street Wardrobe). In terms of
food and sensing the spirit of past times in the culinary scene
of Zagreb, we recommend a visit to Hemingway Bar & Bistrot
(see page 28) which in some way reflects the atmosphere of
Parisian bistros. Sip on coffee or tea at Finjak (see page 38),
or indulge your sweet tooth at the Hotel Palace. Last but not
least, we also recommend an evening beverage at the Esplanade 1925 Lounge & Cocktail bar.
02.09 - 20.11 » A HANDFUL OF BEARD
If Ned Kelly was alive, he’d be a star in Zagreb with this
extraordinary tribute to male beards. FYI, long beards used
to represent power and wealth, and a moustache heroism
and courage. This exhibit portrays the myths behind the
history of beards, it traces back to the interior appearance
of old Zagreb barber shops as they were in the late 19th
century and throughout the 20th century. See how shaving was once practiced.QB‑3, Ethnographic Museum,
Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, www.emz.hr.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon.
60 Zagreb In Your Pocket
BRITANSKI TRG ANTIQUE MARKET
Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the
antique market is bursting with flair and excitement.
Here you will find various decorative things, old
books and collectables of both local and international origin. Located in the very heart of the city, the
market is a real cultural treat for all fans of antiquity.
QA‑2, Britanski trg.
HRELIĆ (JAKUŠEVAC) FLEA MARKET
You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter
brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea
market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam
packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes,
to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s
sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take the
time to relish some of the authentic local food and
meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave
by noon. The quickest way to get to the Fair is to catch
the bus number 295 at the Zapruđe Station, this line is
available on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays. For
more info visit: www.zet.hr.QK‑5, Sajmišna cesta 8,
The English translation means ‘Street Wardrobe’ and
this treasure of a store holds second hand vintage and
retro clothes that have stood the test of time. It’s purely vintage with some outstanding items up for grabs.
Situated in a small courtyard, only few minutes walking distance from the main square, come and enjoy
the atmosphere, music and authenticity of each piece.
QD‑2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00.
Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
From 50kn. JA6
Since Zagreb is a popular tourist hot spot, it is of no surprise that there is a wide range of accommodation options
from hotels, boutique hotels, hostels, and private accommodation of different categories and prices. While on the
go, where to snooze is indeed an important decision. In
recent years, an influx of hostels has opened around town
which are extremely clean and tidy, with attention given
to the arrangement of the interior. Private accommodation
with apartments and flats are always in demand while the
hotel offer now includes an emergence of classy boutique
hotels. Detailed information in reference to all types of accommodation is available on the web site and at the Tourist
Information Centres. All in all, there’s something for everyone’s pocket!
ESPLANADE ZAGREB HOTEL
QC‑4, Mihanovićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 66 66, fax (+3851) 456 60 20, Info@esplanade.hr, www.esplanade.hr.
208 rooms (146 Superior Rooms €120 - 229, 48 Deluxe
Rooms €140 - 229, 13 Deluxe Suite €220 - 309, 1 Presidential
Suite €1900). PTJHAR6UIFLEG
SHERATON ZAGREB HOTEL
QD‑3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+385-1) 455 35 35, fax (+385-1)
455 30 35, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.hotelsheratonzagreb.com. 306 rooms (254 singles €105 - 135,
254 doubles €130 - 160, 28 suites €175 - 270, 23 Junior Suites
€130 - 160, 1 Presidential Suite €1000 - 1500). PiJH
THE WESTIN ZAGREB
QA‑3, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1, tel. (+385-1) 489 20 00, fax
(+385-1) 489 20 01, email@example.com, www.
hotelwestinzagreb.com. 349 rooms (308 doubles €125 170, 19 Westin Guest Office Suites €175 - 220, 1 Presidential
Suite €1500, 19 Executive Suites €260 - 310, 2 Delux Suites
€560 - 592). PZOTJHAR6UFLG
QD‑4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 469 60 00, fax (+385-1)
469 60 96, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.arcotelhotels.
com/en. 151 rooms (38 singles €170, 103 doubles €185,
4 suites €335, 4 Junior Suites €260, 2 Rooms for disabled
BEST WESTERN PREMIER HOTEL ASTORIA
QC‑2, Petrinjska 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+385-1)
480 89 08, email@example.com, www.hotelastoria.hr.
100 rooms (36 singles €79 - 97, 2 suites €213 - 244, 28 King
€93 - 125, 18 Twin €93 - 125, 12 Executive €111 - 150, 4 Superior Executive €164 - 187). PTHARULG
QC‑3, Trg J. J. Strossmayera 10, tel. (+385-1) 489 96
00, fax (+385-1) 481 13 57, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.
palace.hr. 123 rooms (23 singles €95 - 105, 95 doubles
€115 - 125, 3 suites €250 - 255, 2 Junior Suites €180 185). PiTJHAR6UFLGBKwW
QD/C‑4, Kneza Branimira 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 11 22, fax
(+385-1) 484 01 03, email@example.com, www.hotelcentral.hr. 69 rooms (24 singles €68 - 80, 39 doubles
€75 - 95, 6 triples €93 - 107). PiOHAR6LW
QD‑2, Vlaška 50, tel. (+385-1) 455 37 77, fax (+385-1)
461 21 51, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.hup-zagreb.
com. 49 rooms (24 singles €74, 20 doubles €86, 5 triples
€98). PiJAR6ULGKW hhh
QC‑2, Ilica 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 77, fax (+385-1) 483
35 73, email@example.com, www.hotel-jagerhorn.
hr. 18 rooms (3 singles €95 - 119, 13 doubles €115 - 125,
2 apartments €159). PiJALGBKW hhh
AROUND THE AIRPORT
QJ‑6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. (+385-1) 669 59 00, fax
(+385-1) 669 59 02, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.
hotel-aristos.hr. 150 rooms (5 singles €78 - 150,
134 doubles €84 - 160, 7 triples €130 - 190, 3 suites
€190 - 240, 1 Presidential Suite €350 - 460). Pi
H A R 6 U F L G B K D X S w W
BEST WESTERN HOTEL STELLA
QNadinska 27, tel. (+385-1) 539 36 00/(+385-) 091
636 46 88, fax (+385-1) 539 36 03, info@hotel-stella.
hr, www.hotel-stella.hr. 44 rooms (41 singles €70 - 76,
41 doubles €100 - 114, 2 triples €128, 1 suite €141).
OUT OF TOWN
Qoutskirts, Sesvetska cesta 29, tel. (+385-1) 200 63 33,
fax (+385-1) 202 70 92, www.hotelphoenix.hr. 55 rooms
(24 singles €98, 26 doubles €123, 5 triples €148). PZ
QG‑3, Zagrebačka cesta 211, tel. (+385-1) 386 27 77,
www.hotelvienna.hr. doubles €70. PiARG
62 Zagreb In Your Pocket
QH‑5, Remetinečki gaj 28, tel. (+385-1) 642 19 50,
fax (+385-1) 642 96 46, email@example.com, www.
nazor.hr/hostel-arena-zagreb. 261 dorm beds, 140
- 190kn per person. PHALGBKXW
APARTMENT HOUSE SNJEŽNA KRALJICA
Qoutskirts, Sljeme 4, Stubičke Toplice, tel. (+385-1) 460 45 55,
fax (+385-1) 642 93 63, www.sljeme.hr. 17 rooms (16 4-bedded apartment €90, 1 8-bedded apartment €155). PT
QSljemenska cesta 24, tel. (+385-1) 456 04 00, fax
(+385-1) 456 04 01, www.sljeme.hr. doubles €56. iT
SHORT TERM RENTAL
QD‑3, Augusta Šenoe 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 95 54/(+385) 091 533 70 96, fax (+385-1) 483 95 43, www.evistas.hr.
21 rooms (6 singles €35 - 45, 6 doubles €40 - 52, 2 triples
€59 - 63, 7 apartments €49 - 105). PALG
Qtel. (+385-) 091 652 32 01, www.inzagreb.com. 10
apartments (10 apartments €59 - €95) PZTA
DESIGN APARTMENTS SVIMI
QE‑2, Fra Grge Martića 35, tel. (+385-) 098 35 14 11,
www.designapartmentszagreb.com. 5 apartments
(5 apartments €60 - €100). PTAUGW
QD‑3, Draškovićeva 40, tel. (+385-) 095 170 07 00,
www.dtapartments-zagreb.com. 3 apartments
(3 apartments €35 - €70 ). PTAUGW
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
H Conference facilities
U Facilities for the disabled
F Fitness centre
L Guarded parking
R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly
J Old town location
C Swimming pool
B Outside seating
AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
QE‑4, Strojarska 22, tel. (+385-1) 483 67 77, fax (+385-1)
483 67 76, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.amcham.hr. Open
08:30 - 16:30, Fri 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
CROATIAN CHAMBER OF ECONOMY
Freephone info: 0800-1852QB‑3, Rooseveltov trg 2, tel.
(+385-1) 456 15 55, fax (+385-1) 482 83 80, snusinovic@
hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat,
FINA - THE FINANCE AGENCY
Call centre tel. 0800 0080QI‑3, Ul. grada Vukovara 70,
tel. (+385-1) 612 71 11, email@example.com, www.fina.hr. Open
08:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
MINISTRY OF ECONOMY, LABOUR AND ENTREPRENEURSHIP
QI‑3, Ul. grada Vukovara 78, tel. (+385-1) 610 61 11,
firstname.lastname@example.org, www.mingorp.hr. Open 08:30 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
HRVATSKA ODVJETNIČKA KOMORA (CROATIAN
Due to strict ethical laws, lawyers in Croatia are not allowed to be listed in publications. Give them a call for infacebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket
formation about specific lawyers that specialise in the services you need.QB‑4, Koturaška 53/II, tel. (+385-1) 616
52 00, email@example.com, www.hok-cba.hr. Open
08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
VAT in Croatia is generally set at 25% and is due on most
goods and services. Lower rates of VAT are applicable to
goods such as bread and milk, and the tourism sector. Employers are required to report, withhold and pay authorities
all taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their
incomes. Personal income tax on an employee‘s salary is
determined at the following rates: 12% for a net income up
to 2 200kn, 25% for the difference between net 2 200kn and
11 000kn and 40% for a net income higher than 13 200kn.
Thresholds for tax rates are variable, meaning that the law
determines them on the basis of the deductions allowed, an
amount that changes once a year. City surtax is applicable;
Zagreb residents are taxed 18%. 20% of social contributions are withheld from the employee‘s gross income and
the employer pays an additional 15.20%. The minimum
startup capital for a limited liability company is the counter value in kunas of 20 000kn. A foreign founder deposits
the capital into a temporary account with an authorized
business bank. Once the company is Croatian registered
business, the founder can freely transfer such funds into
regular company accounts.
Schlosserove stube D-2
Strossmayerovo šet. B-2
Trg Ante Starčevića
Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2
Trg Biskupa J. Langa D-1
Trg braće Hrv. Zmaja C-1
12 13 17 14 4 9
Pe ade ga
Ja ka ins
1 ZAPADNI KOLODVOR - BORONGAJ
2 ČRNOMEREC - SAVIŠĆE
3 LJUBLJANICA - SAVIŠĆE
4 SAVSKI MOST - DUBEC
5 PREČKO - MAKSIMIR
6 ČRNOMEREC - SOPOT
7 SAVSKI MOST - DUBRAVA
8 MIHALJEVAC - ZAPRUĐE
9 LJUBLJANICA - BORONGAJ
11 ČRNOMEREC - DUBEC
12 LJUBLJANICA - DUBRAVA
13 ŽITNJAK - KVATERNIKOV TRG
14 MIHALJEVAC - ZAPRUĐE
15 MIHALJEVAC - DOLJE
17 PREČKO - BORONGAJ
je ej s
SO os vre
8 6 7
4 SAVSKI MOST
Iv je va
Fe nić vet
re gr ice
5 17 14 4
2 8 6 7 5
Trg kralja Petra Krešimira IV
5 MAKSIMIR DUBRAVA
Šu el a
11 12 14 8 4
Operator: HT d.d., Savska cesta 32, Zagreb
ZAGREBAČKI ELEKTRIČNI TRAMVAJ
KONTAKT CENTAR ZET-a
Informacije: 060 100 001*
Sugestije i pritužbe: 0800 200 060
*poziv na broj 060 100 001 iz fiksne mreže:1,16 kn/min,
iz mobilne 2,36 kn/min (PDV je uračunat).
Služba komunikacija i marketinga
Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3
Trg žrtava fašizma
Trg kralja P. Krešimira IV E-3
Trg kralja Tomislava
Trg Maršala Tita
Trg N. Šubića Zrinjskog C-3
Trg Petra Preradovića C-2
Trg Petra Petretića
Trg Svetog Marka
In most every human population it’s likely that a percentage of them will be children. Zagreb is no exception to this
rule and as such, we thought it might be helpful for us to
list places these strange creations are big fans of.
64 Zagreb In Your Pocket
ZAGREB FOR CHILDREN
BOĆARSKI DOM PLAYGROUND
If the never-ending line of playground equipment
weren’t enough to get your juices flowing, the halfpipe
at the river’s edge will make you wish you packed your
skateboard. From Trg bana Josipa Jelačića take N°17
west (Prečko) or 14 (Zapruđe) and get off at the Prisavlje
stop. From there cross the street and walk a few hundred
metres east on Prisavlje ulica. The playground is on your
right.QI‑4, Prisavlje 2.
REGULAR TRAM SERVICES
CENTRAL POST OFFICE
QD‑4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-) 0800 30 33 04, info@
posta.hr, www.posta.hr. Open 00:00 - 24:00.
Pr. Gjure Deželića
Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4
MREŽA DNEVNIH TRAMVAJSKIH LINIJA
TECHNICAL MUSEUM NIKOLA TESLA
(TEHNIČKI MUZEJ NIKOLA TESLA)
Science is fun. Eyes will be wide with wonder as they encounter really cool space and train displays. Parents, brush
up on your physics before taking the crew here: your
memory will be pushed to its limit and don’t even think
about making it up - they see right through you.QA‑4,
Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, www.tehnickimuzej.hr. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 15-20kn. Planetarium admission 15kn.
QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 61 98.
QL‑2, Grižanska 4, tel. (+385-1) 299 23 50.
QG‑3, Ilica 301, tel. (+385-1) 375 03 21.
QH‑3, Ozaljska 1, tel. (+385-1) 309 75 86.
QI‑5, Avenija V.Holjevca 22, tel. (+385-1) 652 54 25.
The latest educational craze to hit town is ‘Mozgaonica’, a
discovery centre for children and teenagers who are given
real life challenges through play type activities and more.
Knowledge, problem solving, critical thinking and analysing! A true WOW factor and kids can enrol in programmes
or visit any time for fun. Team building as well as birthdays
can be reserved! Think out loud and be proud! QK‑3,
Zavrtnica 17 (Enter from Podaupska ulica), tel. (+385-1)
799 96 09/(+385-) 91 942 20 07, mozgaonica.hr. Open
09:00 - 22:00. Tickets 25 - 40kn. Family ticket 100kn.
QK‑3, Heinzelova 60, tel. (+385-1) 461 80 05, info@
languagespot.hr, www.languagespot.hr. Open 09:00 13:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.
Language lessons and business workshops set up for companies with verified innovative methods and standardised
programs.QC‑2, Ilica 44, tel. (+385-1) 481 21 16, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.berlitz.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1
Kneza Lj. Posavskog E-3
m ičk a
THE CROATIAN NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM
(HRVATSKI PRIRODOSLOVNI MUZEJ)
Taxidermy dominates and some of it is larger than a jar
can hold - spiders, bugs, lions, vultures, rocks and much
more. Children love this place especially, for it has all the
creatures of the wild in it, only these aren’t capable of dismembering passers-by.QB‑1, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1)
48 5 17 00, www.hpm.hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00
- 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00 and Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 15 - 20kn.
29. X. 1918.
Aleksandrove stube B-1
A. Marina Držića
Felbingerove stube C-1
Florijana Andrašeca A-4
HRVATSKA JAVNOBILJEŽNIČKA KOMORA
Notaries work the same way as lawyers in this country:
there is a primary association that you have to go through.
QD‑2, Račkoga 10, tel. (+385-1) 455 65 66, fax (+385-1)
455 15 44, email@example.com, www.hjk.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00,
Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
BUNDEK PLAYGROUND (BUNDEK)
Ride a bike, go for a walk, rollerblade, play Frisbee, or simply hanging out with friends… No matter what you prefer,
this is a park for small and big children alike and everyone
can find something for themselves. The kid’s swings are a
TRAM st. u oba smjera
TRAM stop - both directions
TRAM st. u jednom smjeru
TRAM stop - one direction
LINIJE BROJ 1, 3 I 8 NE PROMETUJU SUBOTOM, NEDJELJOM I BLAGDANOM.
ROUTES 1, 3 AND 8 DO NOT OPERATE ON SATURDAY, SUNDAY OR PUBLIC HOLIDAYS.
Dubrovnik and Neretva County Tourist Board
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