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Zagreb
June - September 2017

Green Zagreb
The Look & Outlook
of the City
N°88 - complimentary copy
zagreb.inyourpocket.com Croatian Inventors
Great Minds from a
Small Country
Contents

E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S Sightseeing 32
Discover what we ‘ve uncovered
Foreword 4 Green Zagreb 44
A zesty editorial to unfold The look and outlook of the city
What’s On 6 Shopping 47
A pick ‘n’ list to brighten your stay Priceless places and buys

Croatian Inventors 14 Where to stay 58
How they influenced the world Accommodation categories in Croatia
Restaurants 16 Arrival & Getting Around 59
We give you the bread ‘n’ butter of where to eat SOS! Have no fear, ZIYP is here
Local Flavour 25 Zagreb Basics 62
Treat yourself or be treated Keep’n it real
Coffee & Cakes 28 Maps
“How’s that sweet tooth?” Street Register 63
Transport Map 63
Nightlife 30 City Centre Map 64-65
Are you ready to party? City Map 66

Zagreb 4U, Photo by Sanjin Kaštelan, Zagreb Tourist Board Archives

Get cultural! Your guide through the best summer events.

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket June - September 2017 3
Foreword
It was normal a few years back to hear locals say that Zagreb
would transform into a ghost town over the summer with
everyone escaping to the sunny seaside, well that isn’t the Publisher
case anymore. In fact, Zagreb has become an all year top Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb
European destination and just as people are travelling ISSN 1333-2732
from North to South, or South to North, it seems the city Company Office & Accounts
has become the perfect pit stop. And so it should as there Višnja Arambašić
is so much to do and see… IYP is here to offer some quick Zagreb In Your Pocket, Lastovska 42, Zagreb, Croatia
Tel. (+385-1) 779 12 28, 779 12 29,
tips to either soak up the heat or escape it; we first suggest croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com
visiting some of the city parks named Maksimir, Bundek Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.
and Jarun. The city has pools at Mladost, Šalata, Utrine and Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja, published 4 times per year
Svetice but a mere 30km out of town and you can reach Editorial
Editor Višnja Arambašić
the thermal waterparks at Krapinske toplice and Terme Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan
Tuhelj, these are great for a day out. Of course, culture is Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Nikola Badovi-
a must and all city museums and galleries are a great way nac, Andrea Pisac
Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac
of getting in touch with our city’s past and present. When Assistant Editor Blanka Valić
the sun does drop you’ll find the city’s squares and idyllic Community Manager Tea Bikić
Design Lovro Boljat
small streets jam packed as everyone loves a stroll through Photography Zagreb In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated
the city sipping on cold beverages or downing ice creams. Cover © Photo by Julien Duval, Zagreb Tourist Board Archives
Cafes and bars are chock a block and there is a great vibe Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević
Support Sales Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić, Tea Bikić
all round. So do spare some energy for the evenings to get zagreb@inyourpocket.com
the best of Zagreb both day and night. From all of us here Copyright notice
at IYP, we wish you a memorable summer! Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be
reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of re-
Join the conversation with IYP view, without written permission from the publisher and copyright
owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB
In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29
76). Zagreb (Croatia) In Your Pocket is not responsible for any infor-
mation which might change after publication. Please check with the
event organisers if in doubt.

4 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com
What’s On What’s On
22.04 - 12.11 » Of Animals and People 18.05 - 27.08 » Azulejos - The Art of Portu-
Why do we associate with some animals, fear or despise guese Ceramic Tiles
them, eat or treat them, dress or torture them? As we know Artists can use canvas, wood, metal, clay, mortar and other materials
animals and people have a long shared history, this exhibi- to present their artistry, but Portugal has a long-lasting tradition
tion shows how throughout history, our feelings and behav- of using ceramics. The exhibition presents 11 panels of tin-glazed
iour towards animals within our social environment have tiles originating from the 18th century, donated to the Museum
changed, as well as those in the natural environment.QB‑3, of Arts and Crafts. The tiles decorated the walls of the Croatian
Ethnographic Museum, Trg Mažuranića 14, www.emz.hr. Embassy in Lisbon and were transferred to Croatia in 2015.QB‑3,
Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, www.muo.hr.
30.04 - 29.10 » Dubrovnik during the Home-
land War, 1991-1995 20.05 - 27.08 » Dan Graham – Fun for the
Commemorating 25 years since Croatia’s largest offensive Whole Family
which resulted in liberating the southern part of the country; For the first time in Eastern Europe Dan Graham has chosen the
this exhibition presents over 350 items from the Homeland Museum of Contemporary Art (MSU) as the place to be exhibit
War Museum in Dubrovnik. This mobile exhibit has attracted this specific work of his. Deemed a pioneer, Dan is one of the
over 500,000 people and heads to the nation’s capital. A touch- most prominent stars of the contemporary 20th century who
ing and visual memory of an aggressor’s senseless destruction unconventionally contemplates film, architecture, Urbanism, pop
Jonathan, Summer in MSU of a city and the suffering and killing of its population!QB‑1, and underground culture. You’ll get to see how he interplays
Croatian History Museum, Matoševa 9, www.hismus.hr. these and more.QJ‑4, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija
Rock & Pop Concerts Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr.
12.07 21:00 » Warpaint 29.08 20:30 » Duran Duran 10.05 - 08.10 » Full Steam!
It’s not every day you get to see an all-female quartet play- SRC Šalata is an outdoor venue that will have these mega It’s full steam ahead at the Nikola Tesla Technical Museum 20.05 - 16.07 » The Exhibition ‘Forest’
ing Indie Rock which is the case with Warpaint. These LA 80s giants of the new wave/rock/pop scene deliver their with an exhibit dedicated to steam engines and machinery In promotion of the Croatian wood industry, the Art Pavilion in
rockers sure know how to work the crowd with a fine bal- staggering hits under the starry sky. The band’s fans have that was operated by steam which was one of the driving Zagreb presents works of art (paintings, sculptures and drawings),
ance of emotion and production on stage as they tour in been dubbed as ‘Durannies’ and they will get to hear new forces of the Industrial Revolution. The museum’s collection literature and product design dealing with wood. The exhibition
support of their new release ‘Heads Up’. Their dreampop songs from their 14th studio album ‘Paper Gods’ to clas- shows us both old and new machines that are powered by will include numerous exhibits created from the 19th century
sound is gaining popularity and these queens are sure to rip sics such as The Wild Boys, Rio, Save a Prayer, Hungry Like steam engines and how this forgotten energy source is still through to the present, and takes a closer look at theme such as
the Tvornica stage to smithereens.QE‑3, Culture Factory, the Wolf and many others…QD‑1, ŠRC Šalata, Schlosse‑ so valuable; totally interactive and educational!QA‑4, Techni‑ forests and trees, and the material wood, especially oak. Knock
Šubićeva 2, 120 - 140kn, www.tvornicakulture.com. rove stube 2, 210 - 370kn. cal Museum Nikola Tesla, Savska cesta 18, www.tmnt.hr. wood!QC‑3, Art Pavilion, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, www.
umjetnicki-paviljon.hr.
13.07 21:00 » Ryan Adams
With a whopping fifteen albums under his name, Ryan Ad- Exhibitions
ams has achieved prolific success for someone still relatively 22.03 - 31.08 » If Trees Could Walk - The
young. Adams is a singer and songwriter who plays a mix legacy of poet Grigor Vitez
between alternative country to folk rock music. With songs The exhibition by the Croatian School Museum - “What if
such as ‘Do you still love me? ‘Stay with me’ and ‘When the Trees Could Walk” is based on the poem by Grigor Vitez.
stars go blue’, Adams has that element of softness to what Museum consultant and author, Sonja Gaćina Škalamera,
is a pure rocking and rollicking gig.QE‑3, Culture Factory, is presenting the biographical and historical legacy left by
Šubićeva 2, 150 - 170kn, www.tvornicakulture.com. poet Grigor Vitez. The exhibit will display Vitez’s original
documents, books and photographs, as well as poetic
12.08 21:00 » The Dilinger Escape Plan and artistic interpretations inspired by his work. Known to
New Jersey’s grind core/metal core masters embark on a Croatian children from early childhood, organizers believe
trip to our Močvara venue mid-August for an evening of that his work will be of interest to the wider public; not
chaotic yet technical music. They struggled to get here at only because of its cultural and educational character, but
first because whilst on their European tour their tour bus also because of the exhibit’s inherently unique and cre-
was hit by a truck, luckily all members were safe. The band ative approach to the poet’s work.QB‑3, Croatian School
have announced that they will disband after their tour, so do Museum, Trg maršala Tita 4/1, www.hsmuzej.hr.
not miss this final opportunity to see them.QI‑3, Močvara
Club, Trnjanski nasip bb, 120 - 140kn, www.mochvara.hr. 20.04 - 31.07 » Vasko Lipovac - Retrospec-
tive
19.08 21:00 » The Kills Welcome to a distinctive personality of Croatian and Eu-
This transatlantic formation has shaken the indie rock scene ropean modernism of the late 20th century. Vasko Lipo-
with some outstanding music that has seen them reach vac weaves the Mediterranean spirit into his works which
commercial charts. American singer Alison Mosshart and branches out from the abstract and figurative to a variety
English guitarist Jamie Hince have released five albums al- of media, paintings, sculpture, drawings, installations, ur-
together with Ash & Ice the latter. Songs such as ‘Doing it to ban interventions and constructions. It can be seen that
death’ and ‘Siberian Nights’ are favs amongst their diehard plenty of serenity and at times humour, irony, and beauty
fans.QE‑3, Culture Factory, Šubićeva 2, 140 - 160kn, www. all radiate through his art.QC‑1, Klovićevi dvori Gallery,
tvornicakulture.com. Jezuitski trg 4, www.gkd.hr.
6 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket June - September 2017 7
What’s On
01.06 - 01.10 » Venetian Baroque Shine
- Giambattista Tiepolo and Paintings
from his circle
18th century painter Tiepolo was a master of the Venetian
school. He worked on immense frescos to giant ceilings,
palaces and villas. Tiepolo’s works are characterised by a
distinct correlation between light and dark with natural
colour contrast. Adorers of art will be able to see 27 of
his oil paintings, 4 drawings and 12 prints (etchings and
engravings) with motives of landscapes, portraits, mytho-
logical and biblical images.QB‑3, Arts and Crafts Muse‑
The Courtyards, Photo by Sanjin Kaštelan, TZGZ Archives um, Trg maršala Tita 10, www.muo.hr.

01.08 - 17.09 » Ljubomir Stahov – Totems
and Forms of Nature
Born in 1944, Stahov has used every visual medium pos-
sible to represent his works and ideas, this time round he
showcases his sculptures made over the last two decades
by using bronze, wrought iron, terracotta, glazed ceram-
ics, chrome… Special emphasis will be on black stainless
steel forms with nature the central multi-layered theme.
QC‑3, Art Pavilion, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, www.
umjetnicki-paviljon.hr.

08.09 - 24.09 » The 9th Organ Vida Interna-
tional Photography Festival
A platform for photography and the works of photogra-
phers is in essence the driving force behind this associa-
tion. Each year a new theme arises, the year 2017 is based
The Together Project, Summer in Europa Cinema on ‘New Citizens’ where authors can send in their works
which ponder the threat humanism is under. Are we sink-
ing under our own weight? Is the computerised world
29.05 - 25.07 » Boris Bućan - Posters/A brining us closer together or further apart? Come and see
choice of donations for yourselves!QJ‑4, Contemporary Art Museum, Ave‑
An intriguing innovator of graphic design especially in nija Dubrovnik 17, www.organvida.com.
the last quarter of the 20th century, Bućan has left an
inevitable mark on Croatia’s cultural heritage. With his
long-lasting intense work, his poster art is emphasised by Festivals
a vivid colour print leading viewers into a world of sym- 19.07 - 23.07 » The 51st International Folk-
bols, humour, fantasy and unmatched creativity. See 23 of lore Festival
his famous works whilst in town.QC‑3, The Department A five day folklore bonanza waits with stage performanc-
of Prints and Drawings of the Croatian Academy of es, workshops, concerts of world music, church singing
Sciences and Arts, Andrije Hebranga 1, www.kabinet- and exhibitions. The thematic program will cover the
grafike.hazu.hr. ethnographic heritage of Banovina and Pounje and their
ways of singing and dancing, customs and handicrafts.
Additional performances by Croatian folklore groups and
film ensembles from other nations and cultures will also grace
the Jelačić Square stage.Qwww.msf.hr.
29.06 - 02.09 » Summer in Europa Cinema
Escape the heat by watching a film in one of the cities 03.09 - 09.09 » Festival of World Literature
classical cinemas of yester! There is the ‘3 Love Stories’ The Festival of World Literature is certainly one of the
programme based on three untypical movie novels year’s most important literary events taking place in Za-
(Project: Together, After Love, and ‘The happiest day greb. In collaboration with internationally renowned liter-
in Ollija Maki’s life), all European of course… The ‘You ary festivals, Vilenica from Slovenia and Cúirt from Ireland,
missed, look!’ programme gathers over 80 movie titles the Festival of World Literature is part of the “Sharing the
shown this year and there’s Subtitled T-Days (Tues/ Wor(l)d” project. You too can be part of that world if you
Thurs) and more.QB‑2, Europa Cinema, Varšavska 3, find yourself at one of the festival’s programs: interviews,
www.kinoeuropa.hr. screenings, and panel discussions.QB‑2, Europa Cinema,
Varšavska 3, www.literaturamundi.com.
8 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com
What’s On
16.09 - 22.09 » PIF - 50th International Pup- Special Events
pet Theatre Festival 17.04 - 01.10 » The Changing of the Guard
Be sure not to miss PIF, the International Puppet The- A Croatian regiment named ‘The Royal Cravats’ joined
atre Festival, which will be taking over Zagreb’s streets, the French Army in the 17th century and in their honour,
squares and theatres. The festival was founded in Zagreb every weekend at midday you can see a two hour cer-
in 1968 when, strange though it may seem, a group of emony which begins with the ‘Preparation of the Guard
supporters of the Esperanto language wanted to organ- and Arms Inspection’. March from St Marks Square to
ise a cultural event all in the international language. Thus, other city sites amongst some of the finest well dressed
PIF was born, but puppeteering soon became more ex- guards, drummers, flag-bearers and trumpeters.Qwww.
citing than the idea of international utopia, and now the kravatpukovnija.com. 12:00 Every Saturday, Sunday
puppeteers use their mother tongues or the international and the Feast of the Assumption.
language of puppets! (Oooww! EEEeee!) Performers from
all over the world will perform both adults’ and children’s 22.04 - 01.10 » Zagreb Time Machine
plays.Qwww.pif.hr. Step back in time to the days of old Zagreb style, stroll
to Zrinjevac Park and each Saturday you can take plea-
28.09 - 01.10 » International Experimental sure in waltz, operettas, Italian canzone, jazz and more.
Film and Video Festival From Tkalčićeva Street to the Cathedral, delve into some
Lights, camera, action! This festival is dedicated to ex- traditional foods through song and folklore. The Upper
perimental film and video that runs at 25 fps - number of Town dazzles with costumed characters that have come
frames per second. It seeks to identify new forms of ex- back to life and giving visitors an insight into the way
pression and explores the conceptual and technical pos- life... once was! The Tourist Information Centre has all the
sibilities of film making. It has a competition programme details as events vary throughout the morning and after-
and also features retrospectives as well as live expanded noon.Qwww.infozagreb.hr.
cinema performances.Qwww.25fps.hr.
25.05 - 02.09 » Strossmartre - Summer on
Stross
Ryan Adams Embark on a journey towards the Strossmayer Prom-
enade, next to the Lotrščak Tower and you’ll be pleasantly
surprised by the range of music, film, theatre, fine art and
entertainment on offer. The programme is daily with kick
off before midday as the festival runs into the evening.
Totally romantic, totally free!QB‑2, Strossmayer Prom‑
enade, www.ljetonastrosu.com.

26.05 - 30.09 » Art Park
Once known as the ‘junkie park’, a small group of citi-
zens and associations have transformed a small park into
a place of fun, vibe, humor and togetherness. Suitably
titled, ‘Art Park’, its fully open to the public and during the
summer months there will be workshops, yoga, drawing
sessions, music extravaganzas, film screenings, music
jams, panels to paint, and more. It’s located between the
Strossmayer Promenade and Tomićeva Street.Qwww.
facebook.com/ArtParkZagreb.

28.05 - 01.10 » The Ceremonial Exercise of
the Honorary Protective Combat Armed
Forces of the Republic of Croatia – the
Great Changing of the Guard
The revival of a tradition that began before WW1 contin-
ues each and every Saturday when the firing of the Grič
cannon from the Lotrščak Tower starts off the ceremony
exactly at noon. Members of the Guard, 3 officers and 26
soldiers dressed in ceremonial uniform march through
the streets and find their way to St. Mark’s Square for the
official exchange. The ceremony lasts 10-15 minutes in to-
tal.QC‑1, St Mark’s Square. 12:00 Every Saturday.

10 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com
What’s On What’s On
27.06 - 09.07 21:00» The 36th Evenings in
Grič
A usual, this year’s edition of this prominent classical
music festival will once again host some of the best and
most renowned Croatian and international musicians, so-
loists and chamber ensembles, do stay tuned for the lat-
est in the line-up.QC‑1, Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski
trg 4, 80kn, www.lisinski.hr.

28.06 - 02.08 » EXIT Theatre Summer Nights
Zagreb can get a little tad quieter at summer as many
people are down the coast but according to the EXIT
Theatre, ‘the show must go on’… And rightly so as this
theatre company aim to provide both locals and visitors
Ljubljana Mini Theatre - Snow White, Grand Prix, Photo by Ivan with top-quality professional performances throughout
Špoljarec, PIF Archives the entire summer.QB‑3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg
maršala Tita 10, www.teatarexit.hr.

29.06 - 31.08 21:00 » Amadeo Scene
A series of theatrical and musical events is first held in
the summer of 2000 in the atrium of the Croatian Natural
History Museum, thus paying homage to the first public
theatre in Zagreb called the ‘Amadeo Theatre’ opened in
1797. This year’s festival will host various local and world
artists in this very same venue.QB‑1, The Croatian Natu‑
ral History Museum, Demetrova 1, 30 - 130kn., www.
scenaamadeo.hr.

12.07 - 14.07 » Medvedgrad Musical Eve-
nings
This is the chill pill for those wanting to escape the city,
head into the hills, and be captured by the beauty of ing their ‘yards’ to the general public. Stories of legends Sport
an ancient fortress which is the setting for music un- will be retold, unravelling the past through these green 26.08 » Grawe Night Marathon
der the stars. Every night an acoustics program will oases.QB/C‑1, Upper Town, www.dvorista.in. Growing year by year, a limit of 2000 competitors can join the
Duran Duran be the prelude to a featured artist or band perform- night marathon at Park Bundek, one of the city’s nicest hot
ing. Line up includes: The Bambi Molesters, Amira 25.08 » Paul van Dyk spots. Choose from one of 5 races all broken up into fractions
Medunjanin, Kries.. Keep your ears out for further For more than two decades, German DJ Paul van Dyk has of the original 42km Marathon. If you’re not up for the gruel-
10.06 - 15.07 » Summer in MSU information!QMedvedgrad, Tickets 60 - 110kn., www. been at the forefront of electronic music. He has been ling distance, you can enlist into the 1/10,1/4, 1/2, or 3/4 of a
Sky high! Yep, the Museum’s rooftop turns into a centarcesarec.hr. named as best DJ in the world twice by DJ Mag and has full marathon. Lanterns, nature strips, bridges and a buzzing
mega stage with a great multimedia program, from sold millions of albums world-wide, in 2005 he was even atmosphere all in one!QJ‑4, Bundek Park, www.sljeme.run/
live music, film screenings, literature panels and art, 14.07 - 23.07 » the courtyards nominated for a Grammy in the category of best dance/ grawe-nocni-maraton/.
all in one. With amazing views, see some of Croatia’s Take a peek behind the facade of the Palaces of the Up- electronic album. With such a portfolio, now we know
top pop rock bands. QJ‑4, Contemporary Art Mu‑ perTown and enter a world of Zagreb’s courtyards. Experi- the hype behind van Dyk!QG‑5, Gallery Club, Aleja 28.08. - 29.08. » IAAF World Challenge - The
seum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr. ence a part of the city that you have never experienced Matije Ljubeka, www.gallery.hr. 67th Hanžeković Memorial
with citizens and government institutions proudly flaunt- Shown on Europsort, this event draws some of the world’s best
30.09 - 01.10 » Medieval Days on Mount athletes and is an official IAAF (World Athletics Federation)
Medvednica event. It’s named after the great hurdler we’ve nicknamed
Is this for the faint hearted? The glory of chivalry returns ‘Hanžek’. Though the list of athletes is still to be confirmed, past
as we step back into the spirit of the medieval times! attendees include Blanka Vlašić, Marion Jones, Merlene Ot-
Visitors can witness the brilliance of the famous joust- tey, Marc McCoy and others. Qwww.zagreb-meeting.com.
ing tournament; attempt specific disciplines knights had
undertaken, make your own coins, investigate the Zrinski September » Terry Fox Run
mine, attend markets and more. Be wary of any lurking Join this world event if in Zagreb which pays respect to Terry
witches about!QMedvednica Nature Park, Bliznec bb, Fox, who at 21 attempted to run across Canada to raise money
www.pp-medvednica.hr. for cancer research. His legacy lives on today with countries
all over the world doing the very same thing. Whether run-
ning or supporting, come to Lake Jarun for an atmosphere
www.inyourpocket.com of solidarity.QG/H‑4/5, Jarun Lake, Aleja Matije Ljubeka,
www.terryfox.org
12 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket June - September 2017 13
Croatian Inventors Croatian Inventors
By Andrea Pisac His famous work Theoria Philosophiae Naturalis/Theory of His most impressive yet controversial discovery is the
If there was an index to calculate a country’s inventiveness gene, Natural Philosophy (Vienna, 1758) contains super-modern Tesla Coil – the concept that the Earth itself is a magnet
Croatia would rank extremely high. This small country of no more theories that were proven and embraced only two centuries which generates electricity through frequencies. All that is
than 4.5 million people has advanced the world in all major later. Like for example that matter consists of tiny particles, to- needed for free power for everyone is a transmitter. See the
spheres of life. Croatian inventors have dreamed up ingenious day known as quarks, and a lot of empty space. The true mean- controversy here?
abstract concepts and have also created hands-on solutions that ing of this revolutionary discovery may be lost to a layperson. But, back to practical, everyday solutions. Think of house
we use in everyday life. So think of Albert Einstein’s theory of relativity – the biggest appliances, machine tools, disk drives... they are all
Starting from Nikola Tesla who literally “lit up the world” with discovery of the 20th century – and remember that it wouldn’t powered by the electric motor invented by Tesla. Next
his alternating electric current to Slavoljub Penkala whose pen have been possible without Bošković’s ideas. time when you take a cold drink from your fridge, think Te-
allows us to sign our name – physically on paper and metaphori- But this genius scientist also used his mind for practical solu- sla. Styling your hair with a hairdryer? Think Tesla. This man
cally as a legacy. tions, like repairing the dome of St. Peter’s in Rome and changed the planet as probably no one before or after him.
Many of Croatia’s greatest minds lived a quiet life, as most ge- setting up the famous Brera Observatory in Milan. And yes, the Tesla electric car is named after Nikola Tesla!
niuses do. And as history keeps re-evaluating our biggest civi-
lizational feats, Croatian inventions too are being rescued from Ivan Lupis (1813-1875) David Schwarz (1850-1897)
oblivion. Like for example the ideas spawned by the physicist Weapons may not be the greatest of our achievements, but When it comes to conquering the sky, Croats indebted
Ruđer Bošković, which predate Einstein’s theory of relativity by when Ivan Lupis invented the torpedo, more technological the world with yet another design – the Zeppelin. David
200 years. What better way to connect to your travel destination breakthroughs followed. The initial idea of this Croatian navy Schwarz, a Croatian aviation pioneer created the first of its
than to realize how its inventors influenced the world at large, officer was to guard the coast with small boats laden with kind, an airship completely made of metal. The Zeppelin
and your own day-to-day life. So here is a list of Croatia’s major explosives. plane may not be in use any more, but its discovery was
innovators. The concept of fighting off the enemy with a much smaller and an important step in designing airships which could be
self-propelled vessel was so revolutionary it quickly caught the controlled by engine-driven propellers.
Faust Vrančić (1551 - 1617) attention of the English engineer Robert Whitehead. Under Schwarz worked on the prototype that was to be test flown
People had always been fascinated with flying, but it was not his direction, the first torpedo was manufactured in Rijeka in Berlin in 1897, but he died a few months before it hap-
until the Renaissance that they had the first taste of it. Many in 1868. Over the years the fish-like underwater weapon was pened. The legend says that Count Ferdinand Graf von Zep- Concept One, Rimac Automobili Archives
think that Leonardo da Vinci invented the parachute. But the improved through other discoveries, such as contra-rotating pelin bought Schwarz's patent from his widow, the reason
revolutionary ‘Homo Volans’ (the flying man) concept was ac- propellers and the use of a gyroscope for direction setting. why the airship is named after him.
tually thought through by Šibenik-born Faust Vrančić. In his It was one of the most important military resources in both Tomislav Uzelac
masterwork Machinae Novae/New Devices (Venice 1615), World Wars. Slavoljub Penkala (1871-1922) Do you remember how the iPod came to be? There is a mov-
this genius polymath depicted 56 different machines, devices, Even if you’re not a professional writer, try counting the ing scene in the film Steve Jobs where he devised the port-
and technical concepts. Many were bridges, mills and turbines. Ivan Vučetić (1858 - 1925) number of times you put your signature on a document. able music library to get closer to his estranged daughter.
Next time you admire San Francisco’s famous Golden Gate Today’s world is fascinated with forensics and CSI TV shows. On The old-fashioned way, with a pen to paper. This was made But having your favourite music tucked inside your pocket
Bridge, remember that the suspension bridge was Vrančić’s the one hand, this advanced investigative technology makes possible by the great inventor Slavoljub Penkala who first predates Jobs’ ingenuity.
brainchild. The parachute he conceived of was the first ever us safer because hardly anyone can get away with commit- patented the mechanical pen in 1906. Only a year later, The first successful MP3 player was invented by the Croa-
tested. It was Vrančić himself who at the age of 65 jumped from ting a crime. On the other, the data kept on each of us may Penkala also created the fountain pen. tian programmer Tomislav Uzelac. He built on research about
St Mark's Campanile in Venice and confirmed his invention be infringing on our privacy. Like fingerprinting for an ID for These writing accessories became so popular that Pen- music file compression carried out in Germany and came up
worked. He survived, setting humankind on course to finally example. kala teamed up with Edmund Moster to set up the Penkala- with his own product in 1997 – AMP. This first MP3 player
conquer the sky. Whether you are for or against it, have you ever wondered who Moster pen-and-pencil factory. TOZ Penkala (the factory’s was picked up in the USA and adapted to work on Windows.
invented it? It was the Hvar-born Ivan Vučetić who later emi- current name) is still alive and kicking in Zagreb – an estab- Then we got Winamp, and we are sure most of you have had
Marin Getaldić (1568-1626) grated to Argentina and became the director of the Center lishment with a cult status. it installed on your computers.
Maybe you don’t need glasses, or don’t need them yet. But when for Dactyloscopy in Buenos Aires. In 1892 Vučetić made the If writing is our civilizational achievement, then Penkala
you pick them up in your seasoned years, think of the mathema- first positive identification of a criminal based on a bloody fin- undoubtedly provided one of the most crucial means by The newest inventions
tician and physicist Marin Getaldić. This Dubrovnik-born col- gerprint. His exceptional method of fingerprinting classifica- which we leave our mark and our signature in the world. There is a new generation of savvy Croatian programmers
league of Galileo Galilei set the stage for modern day optics. tion became the golden standard in CSIs around the world. who continue to impress with their state-of-the-art devices.
A pioneer in building conic lenses, he would retire into the so Zlata Bartl (1920-2008) You will come across at least two of them while you travel
called Bete’s cave outside the Dubrovnik city walls and conduct Nikola Tesla (1856-1943) A magical cooking spice Vegeta is the magnus opus of in Croatia. Here, you can pay for parking by text message
his experiments with mirrors. The parabolic mirror he built still There are still people who don’t know of Tesla, but there is Zlata Bartl. You may be thinking ‘how typical for a woman and charge your mobile device on a solar-powered smart
survives and is kept at the National Maritime Museum in London. hardly anyone whose life is not impacted by his ingenious to invent something relating to the kitchen’. But Zlata Bartl bench. The Steora bench, invented by Ivan Mrvoš, has
Again, a parabolic mirror may not sound like much. But next inventions. Let’s start with electricity, this basic facility that was a chemist and a scientist working in Croatia’s foremost already stormed the world, and Zagreb alone has 20 of them
time you tune into your favourite TV show on a satellite channel, we won’t or can’t live without. Tesla’s alternating electric cur- food company Podravka. installed across the city.
remember, a satellite dish is just one if its many applications. rent (AC), invented at the same time as Edison’s direct current In 1959 she concocted Vegeta from salt, spices, dried veg- When it comes to new sources of energy, you only need to
(DC), proved a safer and more cost-effective mode of power etables and flavour enhancers. The condiment soon shot to go 20 km outside Zagreb to the bucolic village of Sveta Ne-
Ruđer Bošković (1711-1787) generation and distribution. Tesla is what happens every day popularity and was selling worldwide. No foreign attempt delja to find the world’s fastest electric car. This is where
The hardest inventions to understand and appreciate are the when you turn your lights switch on! to reproduce the product, and there were many, was suc- Mate Rimac makes his famous Concept One – the biggest
abstract ones. They may not have practical devices to show but His next grand discovery was the radio, though it was initially cessful, so Vegeta continues to be one of Croatia’s most competitor to the electric models made by Ferrari, Lam-
they forever change the way we see the world. This is why you credited to Marconi – the patent was eventually given back to widely recognized brands. Next time you are cooking, borghini and Porsche. When you are in Zagreb, don’t miss a
should remember Ruđer Bošković, Dubrovnik-born mathemati- Tesla in 1943. From there Tesla invented the system of remote try the Croatian trick – finish with adding one spoonful of chance to visit the Rimac factory. Go on a 60 minute tour and
cian, astronomer, and philosopher – the father of modern control. Yes, the same one you use when you flip through Vegeta. meet the world’s most talked about car in person.
physics. TV channels.
14 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket June - September 2017 15
Restaurants Restaurants
Vinodol
A great place to try some traditional goodies with a modern International
approach. Its outdoor dining opportunity is perhaps the Apetit City
best in the centre of town, with candle-light flickering as you This ‘oasis of enlightened hedonism’ is downtown branch
move from anxious and disagreeable to smooth and charm- of a favorite Apetit bistro.Reliable in their reverence for the
ing (finally). Highly recommended.QC‑2, Nikole Tesle 10, tel. culinary experience, the wait staff enhance an ambiance
(+385-1) 481 14 27/(+385-1) 481 13 41, www.vinodol-zg.hr. which makes their delectable seafood, beef and lamb
Open 11:30 - 24:00. (70 - 160kn). P­J­A­6­G­B­W dishes all the tastier. Exquisite deserts are complimented
with recommendations from their extensive wine collec-
tion. Whether in its own right or following a meal, a visit
Seafood to the elegant wine bar also promises novices and con-
Dubravkin put noisseurs alike an unforgettable evening.QB‑2, Obrtnički
Nestled in the peaceful greenery of Tuškanac, visitors to this prolaz 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 10 77, www.apetit.hr. Open 12:00
hide-away hot spot are welcomed with a wine-wall entrance and - 23:00. Closed Sun. July 29 - August 15 Closed. (70 - 160kn).
swept away to Dalmatia with seafood delights. The understated, P­J­A­G­B­W
rustic exterior highlights the fresh and elegant restaurant and
wine bar. The vino selection alone is worth the trek but we Hemingway Bar & Bistrot
suggest donning your Sunday best with friends and an apetite Hemingway is an established name that oozes in class and
for an unforgettable fine-dining affair.QB‑1, Dubravkin put 2, is a place to be seen. With years of experience, the staff is
tel. (+385-1) 483 49 75, www.dubravkin-put.com. Open 11:00 highly trained with attention paid to every detail, as with
- 01:00. Closed Sun. (80 - 200kn). P­J­A­L­G­B­W the food, drinks and even cigars. Cocktails are a menu clas-
sic with some unheard of combos that will knock your socks
Korčula off, and the music is very much based on the clubbing and
Locals find it supremely authentic - the fish is as rubbery as a lounge scene!QB‑3, Trg Maršala Tita 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 58
Zinfandel’s, Oleander Terrace, Esplanade Zagreb Hotel Archives racquetball, which is evidently how momma’s been doing it 88, www.bistro.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. i­T­
for the last millennium or so. If you want to understand the J­A­G­B­W
Galerija meaning of Dalmatia and you don’t want to have to go far
Croatian This restaurant is open from morning till night and has some- to do it, this is your place.QC‑2, Nikole Tesle 17, tel. (+385-1)
Balon thing for every occasion catering for functions, business 487 21 59, www.restoran-korcula.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. www.inyourpocket.com
The super-friendly waiters, modern interior, lovely outside events and celebrations! With summer upon us, their green Closed Sun. (50 - 160kn). P­J­A­G­B­W
seating, quality cooking at sensible prices. Be sure to book garden is a hit and they pride themselves on fresh ingredients,
for an evening table.QI‑4, Prisavlje 2, tel. (+385-1) 604 Sundays as family day and the pasta šurlica from Krk made
09 18, www.restaurantbalon.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. according to recipe.QC‑2, Petrinjska 9, tel. (+385-1) 492 13
(80 - 200kn). P­T­A­6­L­G­B­W 22, www.restoran-galerija.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Thu,
Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (30 - 150kn). P­i­
Didov san J­A­6­L­V­G­B­X­W
Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend the beef
and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod peke’ style. Isabella
The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked A delightful restaurant in the suburb of Sesvete, just 15 minutes
bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine se- drive from Zagreb. It’s something like a converted barn, with
lection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva a superb raftered dining room, where they offer up all kinds
28.QB‑1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/ of meals with local and international accents (such as fondue,
(+385-) 091 484 20 61, www.konoba-didovsan.com. flambeed dishes and chateaubriand). The emphasis is defi-
Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (45 - 130kn). nitely on meat – they have a game section on the menu, and
P­A­L­G­K­S­W frogs’ legs. QVinogorska 55, tel. (+385-1) 200 63 73, www.
restoran-isabella.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. July
24 - August 20 Closed. (65 - 110kn). P­L­N­G­B­W
SYMBOL key Stari fijaker 900

F eel-good moments in the open-air
A beer hall and a restaurant, this double agent is a favourite
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
among locals and tourists alike. Located on the picturesque
T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled street Mesnička, which heads towards Upper Town, Stari fi- with superb summertime grill
jaker is popular for its beans, its low-key atmosphere and its on the chic Oleander Terrace
B Outside seating L Guarded parking cuisine from the northern Croatian region of Zagorje. A great
choice of beers, both domestic and international, is available
S Take away 6 Pet-friendly in what is apparently one of Zagreb’s oldest beer halls.QB‑2,
Mesnička 6, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 29/(+385-1) 483 12 36, www.zinfandels.hr
W Wifi J Old town location www.starifijaker.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
(45 - 130kn). P­A­G­X­W
16 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket June - September 2017 17
Restaurants
ManO Zinfandel’s
Clean lines, dark wood and cool lounge music make this a Zinfandel’s, named for a variety of grape which originated
gastronomic haven for the city´s younger generation. The in Croatia, specialises in light, Mediterranean-inspired food,
meat-based menu is pleasingly multinational in its orienta- using local and international know-how to best create great
tion - you´ll definitely find something that takes you away dishes which resonate with regional authenticity. The huge
from the run of the mill. Excellent wines. Reserve in advance. štrukli is well worth trying, and if you were to try two, no
QI‑2, Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 466 94 32, www. one could fault you. The latest attraction at the restaurant is
mano.hr. Open 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. July 29 - Au‑ their Flambé menu, an interesting and flamed affair where
gust 21 Closed. (80 - 150kn). P­A­G­B­W food is grilled in front of guests, the offer is available each
and every night.QC‑4, Mihanovićeva 1 (Esplanade Zagreb
Noel Hotel), tel. (+385-1) 456 66 44/(+385-1) 456 66 66, www.
A warm, cosy and welcoming venue, Noel sits neatly on a zinfandels.hr. Open 06:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:30 - 23:00. (165 -
corner, hidden among the maze of small streets just north 250kn). P­A­G­B­W
of ‘Džamija’. To try and list the kind of dishes available here
would take far too much time and space, but then the res-
taurant knows this all too well and offers diners the option Meet the meat
of 4, 6, and 9 course tasting menus so that you can sample Batak grill
as much as possible. You can also book a special table where A full review for Batak would literally take pages. This
you’ll get more time with Goran Kočiš, Noel’s award winning restaurant chain already covers most of the city. Highly
head chef.QE‑2, Dukljaninova 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 42 97, trained and polite staff, the menu is always being kept
www.noel.hr. Open 10:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. August 1 - fresh. A recommendation is close to impossible to pick,
15 Closed. P­T­J­A­G­K­S­W but if pushed you simply have to try the mazalica with
urnebes. Divine.QK‑2, Vlaška 115, tel. (+385-1) 466 43
Photo by Višnja Arambašić 31, www.batak-grill.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (39 - 89kn).
P­T­A­6­V­G­B­S­W

Kod Dede grill
Carnivores take note, Kod dede (“Grandad’s place”) is a
popular grill for local favourites ćevapčići and pljeskavica
(meat patties), steaks and mixed grills. Hop on tram 17
from the main square heading west, skip out at Prečko
and prepare for the start of a long love affair with deli-
cious, juicy meat.QF‑4, Prečko 5c, tel. (+385-1) 381 75
37, www.koddede.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (38 - 131kn).
P­L­G­B­W

Papa’s
This American styled burger joint, not far from the heart
of Zagreb, certainly looks the part. Music, check, decor,
check, all the beautiful people, check... The food is priced
well, and with word spreading fast you’d be well to take
any opportunity to pay a visit, while there are seats free.
QB‑1, Tuškanac 1, tel. (+385-1) 483 40 17, www.papas.
hr. Open 11:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 23:30, Sun 12:30 -
22:00. (35 - 44kn). P­J­A­G­B­X­W

Plješivička klet
All the meat products are made from their home-reared
piggies, including delicious loooong curly sausages,
blood sausages and ham hocks. Rustic in atmosphere,
you’ll have a full tummy and a big smile on your face when
you leave, and your meal won’t cost you an arm and a leg.
Near Jarun.QG‑4, Staglišće 23, tel. (+385-1) 369 50 88,
www.pljesivicka-klet.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00
- 20:00. Closed Mon. (45 - 90kn). P­A­L­G­B­W

www.inyourpocket.com

18 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants Restaurants
R&B Food Italian
House of Ribs is a slam dunk! Owner and Executive Chef, Agava
Joško Višnjić, spent years fine-tuning his barbecuing skills in Pleasantly furnished in rattan and wood, this trattoria offers
the Southern USA and has successfully transported the intrica- Mediterranean as well as Croatian traditional dishes with a twist,
cies and know-how to Zagreb. The owners certainly go above pasta, fresh salmon and tuna, plate salads and a great wine list.
and beyond when it comes to offering the very best ingre- Huge windows give you a chance to enjoy people-watching
dients and authentic American barbecue flavours. The ribs on Zagreb’s busiest pedestrian street.QC‑2, Tkalčićeva 39, tel.
(baby back pork ribs, veal, and authentic Boškarin beef) are (+385-1) 482 98 26, www.restaurant-agava.hr. Open 11:00 -
all meticulously prepared and nurtured for between 12 hours 23:00. (70 - 290kn). J­A­G­B­W
and 2 days; ending with a quick turn on their custom-made
charcoal grill. The results are nothing less than astounding: the Cantina
profound flavours are steeped in flawless smokey goodness, A little piece of Italy in the heart of Zagreb. Here you’ll find the
with a crispy outside, tender inside, and covered with the per- menu brimming with handmade pasta, sauce, and bread. It’s a
fect BBQ sauce. R&B Food is definitely the only game in town blend of Italian tradition, passion, and know-how, and of course
when it comes to top quality American-style barbecue ribs. the almost stereotypical Italian chef singing in the kitchen while
QH‑4, Puljska 9, tel. (+385-) 091 366 46 05, www.rnbfood. preparing everything, show-cooking style. The shelves are
com. Open 11:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:30 - 23:00. Closed July awash with wines on offer, and Cantina might well be the only
31 - August 21. (45 - 180kn). A­6­V­G­S­W place in Zagreb (if not the entire country) where you can get
your hands on a sparkling red wine. There’s even Italian beer on
Tvornica Pljeskavica Kosta the menu. Also at Avenija Dubrovnik 16, Avenue Mall 2nd floor,
Writing reviews can sometimes be problematic, as you try tel. (+385-) 095 224 43 21.QD‑2, Trg Drage Iblera 10, tel. (+385-
and single out the very best aspects to showcase. With TPK ) 091 592 59 03, www.cantina.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:30, Sat
it’s simple. Everything is good. You’ll need to book your table 09:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (22 - 85kn). P­i ­T­J­A­B­S
in advance, but that’s to be expected. TPK is a meat-eater’s
paradise, and this reviewer’s favourite is the ‘train’, where they Carpaccio
bring out different dishes one after another, with differing lev- Satisfy your desire for the finest of Italian cuisine with this robust
els of spiciness.QSavska 107/1, tel. (+385-1) 619 96 07, www. menu offered in the heart of the city center. From carpacci to
tvornica-pljeskavica-kosta.hr. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat dolci, each meal is delectable and complemented from a near
10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (35 - 70kn). P­G­B­W endless selection of wines. While retaining an atmosphere
of top-class dining, the freshly renovated bistro-style interior Bistro Šalša Pod Zidom Coffee, Food & Wine Bar
playfully invites guests to indulge and enjoy.QC‑2, Teslina 14, Ladies, this is one bistro where all the chefs and staff are men Pod Zidom (Under the Wall) is a wine bar and bistro right
tel. (+385-1) 482 23 31, www.ristorantecarpaccio.hr. Open and one would expect that at least 50% of the customer base in the heart of Zagreb. It offers dishes made from the fresh
11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (85 - 175kn). P­J­A­G­B­W finds this enticing. The concept is oh so simple with a choice groceries which it gets from the nearby Dolac market, a wide
of three types of hearty meals per day. The menu changes selection of Croatian indigenous wines, as well as the usual
daily and is tops for brunch or lunch.QH‑3, Kostelska 11, tel. array of cocktails and refreshments. Pod Zidom is a cozy ter-
Chic & Cheerful (+385-) 095 199 54 59. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. raced spot, ideal for those who enjoy the hustle and bustle
AbOvo Bistro&Bar Closed Sun. August 1 - 16 Closed. (30 - 44kn). P­N­G­ of a capital city, and who enjoy affordable Croatian speciali-
Daily menus prepped with only a few main course dishes are B­S­W ties.QC‑2, Pod Zidom 5, tel. (+385-) 099 325 36 00. Open
on offer as it all depends on market offerings; hence every- 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (75
thing is seasonal and fresh! The range varies from tuna burg- Burger Bar - 170kn). E­B
ers to wild asparagus with goat cheese and more. The wine No doubt you’ve seen the kiosk outside Velesajam, and there’s
selection is vast, a vibrant décor surrounding with soothing a reason it’s always busy. Burgers aren’t really new to Zagreb, Xató
background music sets the atmosphere. Open for lunch and but the artisan burger market is filling nicely and thankfully Japanese food done to a tea with attention to detail in every
dinner!QK‑2, Bukovačka cesta 27, tel. (+385-1) 467 85 54, maintaining a high level of quality. A number of regional craft way, shape and form! The man behind Xató is Tvrtko Šakota,
www.abovobistro.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - beers are also available here, and you can eat ‘in’ or take away. dubbed a culinary globalist and he’ll put a spin on a dish
22:00. Closed Mon, Closed July 31 - August 15. (70 - 100kn). You will not go wrong with the Bacon Deluxe.QI‑5, Avenija with some Spanish to Danish or some other influence. The
P­T­A­6­E­G­K­X­S­W Dubrovnik 15, tel. ( +385-) 091 119 44 55. Open 09:00 - Japanese charcoal grill characterised by a slow process of
24:00. Closed Sun. (18 - 34kn). B­S roasting is used and other uncommon menu dishes include
Bistro RougeMarin
Looking for a suave casual dining place where you get value for Mali Bar Noel Archives
your plate size, look no further. This Bistro has a great combo of Understated fabulousness permeates this must-go spot
foods on the menu where they pride themselves on the ingre- carved into a city center alleyway staircase. The relaxed, happy
dients used. Weekly menus change adding variety to regulars clientele make the most impressive aspect of the decor with
with choices such as steaks, ribs, pastas and soups. A bronzed over thirty business casual making up the major hues. Stop in
burger menu and wok dishes are always highly sort.QK‑4, Frana anytime for wine and fab tapas but with a tv-famous chef in
Folnegovića 10, tel. (+385-1) 618 77 76/(+385-1) 788 87 76, the kitchen.QD‑2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 14. Open
www.rougemarin.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. 12:30 - 24:00. Closed Sun. Closed Aug 7 - 21. (65 - 140kn).
Closed Sun. (55 - 130kn). A­6­G­B­W P­A­G­B­W
20 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket June - September 2017 21
Restaurants Restaurants
dehydrated zucchini with ‘čvarci’, mushroom and asparagus Japanese restaurant Tekka
soup, quinoa gnocchi, to quail and more. Breaking borders You might not normally associate Zagreb with Japanese
with food!QC‑2, Petrinjska 2, tel. (+385-) 091 509 31 91, cuisine, but over the last 5 years the Croatian capital has
www.xato.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. July 31 seen an impressive influx of high quality sushi. Tekka is
- August 17 Closed. (90 - 180kn). P­T­J­A­6­G­ one of the most recent additions, a bustling venue with
K­S­W an equally eager staff. A full menu is available, as well as
several Japanese beers. All the better for its proximity to
the bus station and the Green Gold shopping centre.QJ‑3,
Ethnic Radnička cesta 37 b, tel. (+385-1) 638 93 98, www.tekka.
Asia hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. July 17 - August 20
Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it’s Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. P­T­A­U­L­V­G­
also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the B­K­S­W
landscaped Tomislav Square. There’s none of the OTT de-
cor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact Royal India
it’s perfectly suited to a business meal. Food is consistently The perfect place to savour some authentic Indian cuisine Kod Žaca O’Hara
top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at where the scent of incense greets you right at the door If you’ve not heard of this place then you’ve not spoken O’Hara’s is well known throughout Zagreb, having seen their
Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26.QD‑3, Augusta Šenoe 1, tel. and creates a temple-like atmosphere. Try some samo- to anyone living within its delivery radius. Known for its pizza chefs win award after award, after award. The western
(+385-1) 484 12 18, www.asia.hr. Open 11:30 - 23:30. (29 sas, tandoori chicken and warm naan with a cup of lassi pizza and lasagne you could probably eat here all month suburbs of the capital might seem an odd place for a pizzeria
- 125kn). P­A­G­W or cardamom tea along with a wide variety of other de- long and still have something new to try. Zagreb is truly such as this, but the locals aren’t complaining, and nor are the
licious dishes. Be careful when ordering your food spicy blessed when it comes to pizza, and it’s nigh impossible to many others who travel across the city to eat here. Everything
Tvrtko Šakota, Xató Archives because unlike most of the restaurants in Zagreb, the food suggest a must-try for here…but the biftek pizza probably tastes divine, and while you might come away thinking you
really is spicy.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 26, tel. (+385-1) 468 09 edges it.QJ‑2, Nike Grškovića 4, tel. (+385-1) 468 41 78, could have eaten more, you will not feel the least bit hungry.
65, www.royal-india-zagreb.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. www.pizzakodzaca.hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 90kn) . That’s a guarantee.QF‑3, I.B.Mažuranić 1b, tel. (+385-1) 379 21
(50 - 100kn). P­J­A­G­B­K­S­W P­T­6­V­N­G­S­W 12, www.oharazagreb.com. Open 12:00 - 22:30. Closed Mon.
August 1 - 31 Closed. (38 - 94kn). P­T­A­G­B­X­S
Time Restaurant & Bar
Time, in a classical sense, might be fleeting, but this place
Photo by Višnja Arambašić
certainly isn’t. Perhaps better known to many as a great
bar, Time is also a restaurant serving Asian fusion food,
something not so common in Zagreb even a few years
ago.QC‑2, Petrinjska 7, tel. (+385-1) 333 36 60. Open
08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 160kn). P­T­J­A­
G­B­K­X­W

Pizza
Duksa
It’s not every day you come across good pizza. When we
say “good” we mean pizza with a thin, crispy base and
fresh, natural ingredients on the top. Duksa’s pizza menu
offers about ten original “designs” with tomato sauce (“red
pizza”) and a similar number without sauce (“white pizza”).
Each pizza has its own imaginative and humorous name,
for example “Shitake Happens”. Buon appetito!QK‑2,
Duknovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 233 45 56, www.duksa.hr.
Open 07:00 - 23:00. (43 - 55kn). P­A­6­G­B­S­W

Franky’s
Eat in or have it delivered, Franky’s is situated just north of
Zagreb’s nightlife district in the Kaptol Centre (2nd floor),
so is a handy place to grab a bite (and have a drink) before
heading home, and in relative peace and quiet too. Do
your shopping, settle in for a meal, enjoy a glass of wine.
Franky’s does white pizza, which is not always something
you’ll see in any pizzeria.QI‑2, Nova ves 17, tel. (+385-1)
486 08 34. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (22 - 63kn). P­T­J­
A­U­L­V­G­B­X­S­W

22 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket June - September 2017 23
Restaurants Local Flavour
breakfast hit the market!
Zero zero If you love your food and enjoy cooking, you won’t want
Bistro Fotić Zero Zero sits near a corner of Vlaška, not far from the to miss the farmers’ markets. Zagreb has over 20 of them;
Vegetarian quiche with ham, omelets, coffee, freshly tramline, and it’s transport you’ll need after eating here… most neighbourhoods have at least a few stalls selling fruit
squeezed oranges, fried bread, whole-grain groat, The pizzas are HUGE, and taste of more. The food is Nea- and vegetables, while at the larger markets you’ll also find
eggs, apple and cheese strudel.QC‑3, Gajeva 25, tel. politan, and we’d love to tell you more about the décor meat, fish, dairy produce and a whole lot more.
(+385-1) 481 04 76, www.bistrofotic.com. Breakfast and general surrounds, but the meat and seafood pizzas The charms of open-air markets are known far and wide.
is served: Mon - Sat 08:00 - 11:00. Closed Sun. (25 - kept the reviewers glued to their plates. Great for dates, Piles of produce gleaming in the sun; the local colour, the
60kn). i­J­W family gatherings, or even a solo trip.QD‑2, Vlaška 35, lively atmosphere. However, for outsiders it can be a daunt-
tel. (+385-1) 889 70 00. Open 11:30 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 ing experience. You have to find a way to communicate
Bistroteka - 23:00. (28 - 120kn). P­T­J­A­U­G­B­X­S­W with the stallholders. While the locals develop relationships
Oatmeal, porridge, scrambled eggs, poached eggs, with their favourite stallholders over years, you’re here just
quinoa, and sandwiches with avocado.QC‑2, Nikole for the weekend. How can you be sure you’re not short-
Tesle 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 77 11, www.bistroteka.hr. Vege Restaurants changed or given spoiled produce?
Breakfast is served: Mon - Fri 08:00 - 11:00, Sat 08:00 Green Point ​Don’t be fooled into thinking that just because this is an
- 12:30. Closed Sun. (20 - 45kn). i­J Looking for a quick, healthy alternative place to sat- open-air market everything is as local as it is picturesque. If
isfy your munchies and get some greens? Then step into you look carefully you can spot the importers – the fruit is
Corner bar Green Point, where the green grass will greet you below a little too regular in shape; the produce is not as fresh as it
They offer a large selection of coffee and tea, along your feet. Choose from an array of vegetarian meals, in- might be; the produce on sale is out of season and its pack-
with sandwiches, cakes, cocktails, smoothies, natu- cluding hemp burgers, falafels or salads all prepared with aging belies its foreign origins. The beauty of the market is
ral juices. There’s something to suit everyone’s Himalayan salt. To quench your thirst pick out your favou- buying veg that was picked early this morning (or yester-
taste!QC‑2, Ulica Augusta Cesarca 4 (next to Trg rite fruit for a sumptuous soy milkshake made fresh, right day at the latest). It’s travelled into town in a big chequered
bana Josipa Jelačića), tel. (+385-1) 484 53 93. Break‑ on the spot.QC‑2, Varšavska 10, tel. (+385-1) 483 36 67, bag with the lady from the surrounding countryside - these
fast is served from 08:00 - 12:00. (24 - 37kn). P­i­ www.green-point.hr/en. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Closed ladies are known as kumice and for their years spent sup-
T­J­A­6­U­E­G­B­X­W Sun. (12 - 40kn). J­A­G­W plying the city’s markets they’ve earned their own statue at
the top of the steps on Dolac market (C-2). Or it might be
Johann Franck Vegehop trucked in from the coast where it’s spent its life under the
Homemade cheese and sour cream, bacon and onion, Whether you’re abstaining from meat for religious, ethi- warm Dalmatian sun. Photo by Višnja Arambašić
gluten-free bread, omelet with cheese and mush- cal or health reasons, or if you’ve just had one čevapi too See that bit of mud on the roots of your spinach? That’s a
rooms, turkey sandwich with mozzarella, toast, crois- many. The average omnivore should feel satisfied with the good sign that tells you this is the real deal. This food wasn’t (dimljeni sir), cheese flavoured with paprika, nettle, herbs
sants with chocolate and jam.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa number of vegetarian dishes on the menu; the daily menu raised on artificial substrate so it’s full of flavour. With a bit or made with goat’s or sheep’s milk (kozji, ovčji sir). Also
Jelačića 9, www.franck.eu/johann-franck. Breakfast is likely to fill you more than you could imagine. It’s tricky of luck it’s not soaked with chemical fertilizers or pesticides look out for the Gligora stall selling highly-regarded cheese
is served: Mon - Sat 08:00 - 12:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. to find the place in the back of a courtyard, but there is either. Look out for people with a slightly motley selection from Pag island.
(8 - 65kn). i­J­B­W also a helpful delivery.QE‑2, Vlaška 79, tel. (+385-1) 464 of goods that tell you they’re smallholders, not large-scale A trip to the fish section (ribarnica) is part culinary voy-
94 00/(+385-) 091 464 94 00, www.vegehop.hr. Open traders. Seek out imperfections in the produce – natural age, part natural history adventure. The creatures of the
Kava Tava 12:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 69kn). food is not all the same size and shape. Look for a nice bit of deep whose gaze you’ll meet you’ve probably never seen
How do you like your eggs? Cooked, scrambled P­6­V­N­G­S­W mud (but not too much water, that’s a trick to add weight before. Along with shimmering crates of sardines are
or sunny-side-up? Not to mention bacon’n’eggs, on the scales). plump pink scorpion fish, exquisite yet ugly monkfish;
sausages’n’eggs, toasts, Yankee Doodle pancakes, cot- Zrno Bio Bistro The aforementioned Dolac has been feeding the citizens of jumbo Adriatic squid, conger eel, river trout and huge,
tage cheese with cream, tortillas.QA‑2; C‑2, Britan‑ 100% organic food, the only place in Croatia which can Zagreb since 1930, and it’s one of the liveliest spots in the fearsomely-toothed, delicious and hideously expensive
ski trg & Tkalčićeva ulica 12, www.kavatava.com. boast such a thing, it also a decent selection of regional city. From 06:00 to around 14:00, it’s full of banter, barter, dentex. If you’re not sure how to prepare these things, ask
Breakfast is served: 07:00 - 23:00. (20 - 70kn). P­i­ wines available. The interior is warm in appearance, with chatter, shouting and laughter. It’s fringed by cafes and lit- the stallholder who will usually gut them for you and of-
T­J­N­G­B­K­S­W a narrow terrace outside if the weather allows. There’s a tle food outlets; a trip there is an unmissable part of the fer advice on cooking. Look for fish with plump flesh and
bookstore in the basement as well, for budding architects. sightseeing schedule. bright (not sunken) eyes. There’s fish to suit every pocket,
Korica QB‑2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 484 75 40, www. If you’re a vegetarian, you’ll want to avoid the meat sec- and the cheapest, the humble sardine (just 20kn a kilo), is
Korica isn’t exactly at the heart of it all, situated all the zrnobiobistro.hr. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. (55 - tion where you’ll be confronted by bits of carcass swinging the healthiest of them all.
way down Preradovićeva, but it’s a great place to take 69kn). P­A­6­G­B­W all over the place. The meat market is far from unsanitary At the far end of the open-air part of Dolac market you’ll
the kids (or yourself) if the need arises. Korica’s baked but it’s a far cry from the cellophane-wrapped sterility of find herbal teas and tinctures and traditional craft items
goods are all prepared on site and are a step above your the supermarket; there’s no kidding you where that pork such as lace tablecloths, embroidered slippers and wooden
usual offering around the capital. The almond crois- chop came from. Here you can choose from fresh meat of toys. Above is a plateau named after Petrica Kerempuh, a
sants can be especially recommended. It’s worth not- all kinds, cured hams, bones and tails for your soup, spicy literary character. The Kerempuh restaurant is a great spot
ing that weekend lunch hours will be busy, so a table is Slavonian kulen (a little like a giant chorizo), multitude sala- for a tasty lunch, and the Potepuh café has been the meet-
not guaranteed.QC‑3, Preradovićeva 39, tel. (+385-1) mis and the scourge of children everywhere, offal. ing place of artists and intellectuals for decades, including
623 19 95, www.korica.hr/. Open 07:30 - 20:00, Sat Potentially even more off-putting is the dairy section at poet Tin Ujević and novelist Miroslav Krleža. In summer, you
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. July 24 - August 12 Open Dolac, an enclosed area with an unmistakeably milky aro- can buy bedding plants, herbs and other supplies for your
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. P­i ­T­J­G­S­W ma. There rows of ladies invite you to taste their wares, and garden or window box in this part of the market. Go a little
we strongly advise you to do so. Try slivers of supple young further along Opatovina (C-1) and you’ll find stalls selling
cheese (svježi sir), rich sour cream (vrhnje), smoked cheese cheap clothing.
24 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket June - September 2017 25
Local Flavour Local Flavour
Down the Dolac steps and towards the square are flower 02.09 15:00 » The 2nd Beer Yard Festival
stalls, a mirror held up to the changing seasons. Along Start September off in style by attending this 3 in 1 festi-
with hothouse staples there are always narcissi in the val combining ‘craft beer, street food and music’. Croatia
spring, chrysanthemums in autumn, and lavender and is taking over the Craft beer scene with more and more
sunflowers to help you pay homage to the summer. breweries popping up and over 20 national and foreign
As you can see, your shopping spree on Dolac is hard work brewers will attend. Try beers never seen on our soil be-
so you deserve a break. A legendary place for a light lunch fore, not to mention the Food Restaurants having their
is Bistro Amfora, strategically positioned under the arches stands and music from all genres being played live. A beer
by the fish market. The place hasn’t changed in the past 30 fest in a beer garden!QI‑3, Močvara, Trnjanski nasip bb.
years; it’s one of the last reminders of Zagreb in years gone
by and the locals gather from dawn to chew over the day’s 08.09 - 17.09 » Food Film Festival
gossip. The smell of frying squid and sardines is irresistible. Immerse yourself into a food fetish with so much on of-
A main course (we suggest crni rižot, squid ink risotto) and fer its mind boggling! Firstly, every evening at 20:30 a film
a glass of wine will set you back just a few euro. or documentary relating to food can be seen at Zrinjevac
Park. But in the lead up to film there are workshops on
food, famous national chefs preparing dishes, wine lec-
foodie’s guide tures, cooking shows, food bloggers and more foodali-
25.08 - 27.08 » What our forefathers used cious fun!QC‑2/3, Nikola Šubić Zrinski Square, www.
to eat foodfilmfestivalzagreb.hr.
Croatia is blessed with diverse local cuisines which still form
an important part of local and national identity. The festival 23.09 - 24.09 » Zagreb Coffee Break
Kaj su jeli naši stari (“What our folks used to eat”) is a cel- It won’t take you long to realise that Zagrebians devour
ebration of the food of the Vrbovec region east of Zagreb. their coffee, hence why the first edition of Zagreb Cof-
A programme of workshops shows you how to make these fee Break totally makes sense. Get the ‘be all end all’ of
tasty goodies, as well as demonstrating local crafts and coffee over two days with manufacturers and distribu-
more, and there’s a brilliant programme of entertainment tors of coffee strutting their stuff. Learn to make quality
including traditional games and a packed programme of coffee, become familiar with products of various coffee
music.QVrbovec, www.tz-vrbovec.hr. roasters, meet with experts and much more…Qwww.
zagrebcoffeebreak.com.
31.08 - 10.09 » The World on a Plate
The European Square will be the central backdrop for this The Little Market from the Attic
11 day around the world expedition. Enjoy special delica- Many people feel they’d love to have better access to
cies from exotic destinations including Mexico, Asia, Mace- healthy, organically grown food. And at the same time,
donia, Italy, Germany and other amazing nations. Tickle producers of organic food need better access to custom-
your taste buds with the city’s top restaurants giving your ers. The Little Market from the Attic (Mali plac s Tavana)
senses a wild journey. Folklore, foreign dances and world is an answer to this problem, enabling people to have a lot
music as well as other entertainment will be on hand!QC‑2, of fun along the way. Here you can find all kinds of inter-
European Square. esting delicacies from the furthest corners of Croatia, plus
natural cosmetics, eco-friendly cleaning products and a
september » Jaska Wine Celebration whole lot more. It’s also a meeting place where you can
To the southwest of Zagreb, the pleasant town of Jastre- learn from others about growing and enjoying natural
barsko (“Jaska” for short) is the center of a stunningly pic- healthy food. For locations and dates check their website
turesque wine-producing region. Every September, the or Facebook page.Qwww.mali-plac.org.
locals celebrate the wine and food from the region, a great
opportunity to try some of the excellent local wines, cu- Wine School by Jelena Šimić Valentić
linary specialities and fruits of the autumn harvest. Apart Love wine! Wanna learn more? Enroll into these work-
from that, there’s a full programme of entertainment shops which provide for 15 to 20 people. They consist of
laid on – it’s a truly jolly occasion.QJastrebarsko, www. three 180 minute sessions per month with the exact dates
jastrebarsko.hr. to be released two weeks prior to school starting. Classes
always begin at 18:30 and four international wines will al-
02.09 » Something fishy! ways be tasted!Qwww.pupitres.hr
A rare chance to try local fish specialities in the Zagreb re-
gion; the carp that feature in Sveta Nedelja’s Fišijada are
caught in the Rakitje lake. The fish are caught and prepared
in cauldrons on the lakeshore by the members of the local
fishing club. Each chef uses his or her own secret blend of
spices, and the point of all this secrecy is to have your fishy
goulash nominated best in show. Put your tastebuds to the
test!QRakitje Lake, Sveta Nedelja, www.svetanedelja.hr. Zucchini flower filled with goat curd - Le Bistro Esplanade Archives

26 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket June - September 2017 27
Coffee & Cakes Coffee & Cakes
Kavana Corso
Brass and copper tones is the best way to start with a de-
scription of this cafe, oh and a piano sitting in the middle NOT JUST A GREAT SPOT TO SIP YOUR MORNING COFFEE IN PEACE,
of it all. Their Instagram account will give you a better idea.
If you’ve not seen it in passing, chances are someone’s told BUT ALSO FOR A FUN NIGHT OUT ON THE TOWN WITH FRIENDS.
you all about it already. Hidden away on Rapska, Kavana
Corso has a 1950s / steampunky feel. Certainly worth the
visit if you’re eager to try somewhere new.QJ‑3, Rapska
35, tel. (+385-1) 484 01 93. Open 06:00 - 24:00. P­i­
T­6­E­G­B­S­W Open : 07:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00
Kino Europa
Photo by John Pavlish, Torterie Macaron Archives Zagreb’s best known arthouse cinema, Kino Europa is so
much more. Serving as a large café by day the nights offer
A Most Unusual Garden twice as much. Two halls play host to events such as quiz-
Enter a garden, not just any garden, a garden filled with zes, music performances, and must see independent fea-
decoration and as you begin to hear the chimes and tures and documentaries. Kino Europa is not only home to
rhythm, you’ll stumble across a tree house turn café. This any number of film festivals but also to a rather kitsch shop
architectural masterpiece is decked out in a lush bohemian where one can procure some very eclectic items indeed. It
style, fancy yet rustic. Hot’n’cold beverages are available all should be a weekly ritual to check the cinema’s website for
day round and you can choose to chill sky high or down to upcoming features.QB‑2, Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 487
earth, if you know what we mean.QH‑4, Horvaćanska 3, 28 88, www.kinoeuropa.hr. Open 08:30 - 24:00. P­J­
tel. (+385-) 091 464 69 00. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat G­B­W
08:00 - 01:00. P­6­G­B­X­W
Palainovka
Dežman Bar Situated on Ilirski trg, this is ideally placed to act as starting
Dežmanova is surely Zagreb’s most hip street. Already point, or finishing point, for those eager to explore the area Ulica Augusta Cesarca 4 (next to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića) • tel. (+385-1) 484 53 93
home to great fast food joints and cafes, it’s also where outside the old walls of Zagreb. Around the corner you’ll
you’ll find Dežman Bar with its cocktails, snacks and pas- find a path leading onto Dubravkin put, which in turn
tries. It’s gluten free, if you’re concerned about allergens, takes you up a beautiful walk to the woods at the back of
and it stocks Croatian beers. But don’t worry if you think Ksaverska. If you’re ending here you’ll be happy to know DJs, movie nights, wine promotions, warm ups for club Torte i to
it’s somehow a ‘hippy’ bar… they have a BBQ sandwich on that you’ll get your croissants or krafne on top of your tea nights and festivals; it’s never a dull moment.QB‑2, Ilica Lying low in the back of Centar Kaptol’s 2nd floor, this café
the menu too!QB‑2, Dežmanova 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 and coffee. Comfy seats, great music policy, and an even 50, tel. (+385-1) 400 42 48, www.swanky-hostel.com/ offers a selection of the most deliriously delectable sweets
60, www.dezman.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. better selection of beer.QC‑1, Ilirski trg 1, tel. (+385-1) mint/index.php/menza-bar. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat available in Zagreb as well as some of the most helpful
P­i ­T­J­B­X­W 485 13 57. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. P­i ­J­A­6­E­G­B­X­C­W staff in terms of choosing what to eat! With its classic liv-
09:00 - 23:00. P­N­B­X­W ing room style interior and additional seating outside, this
Eli’s U Dvorištu locale is a winner. I suggest the carrot cheese cake!
Any coffee aficionado would be mad not to pay this small Pif Best described as one of Zagreb’s best kept secrets this chilled Also at Babonićeva 121, Vrbanićeva 22, Teslina 7 and Gra-
coffee shop a visit. Non-smoking, because the owner feels Always nice to sit on a heated terrace, during the morning and laid back venue is somewhere to go to just get away from horova 5.QC‑1, Nova Ves 11, Centar Kaptol, tel. (+385-)
it ruins the taste, and serving nothing but coffee, Eli’s has rather than at night, and watch life go by. Pleased to note it all, tucked away from all the action on the street. Direct 099 343 41 11, www.torte-i-to.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00,
one of the friendliest staff ever encountered in oft-gruff that Pif is still one of the fastest cafes around the area to trade café this place has wifi, a great beer selection, and more Sun 09:00 - 23:00. P­N­G­B­W
Zagreb. Coffee is seasonal so you can be sure of getting have their outdoor seating ready for customers, even dur- than a few blends of tea to assist in the process of relaxation.
the right sort of coffee to match the time of year. Eli’s are ing the cold weather. Great mint tea available here, which Perhaps best avoided if you’re not too fond of the feline per- Vis à Vis by Vincek
careful about the quality of their product and only supply is always nice. Staff are prompt and friendly, and inside is suasion, but certainly a place that’s all too happy to see, and Located just beneath the Zagreb funicular, see an entire
a few locations elsewhere in the city.QA‑2, Ilica 63, tel. well ventilated should you be a non-smoker, and unable accommodate, cyclists (an oddity for a city as large as Zagreb). new approach to cakes and pastries which are all made
(+385-) 091 455 56 08, www.eliscaffe.com. Open 08:00 to find space on the terrace. Plenty of local and craft beers, QB‑3, Jurja Žerjavića 7/2. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 gluten free! Only nutritious healthy ingredients are used
- 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. July 15 - Au‑ and open late.QC‑2, Preradovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 560 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. P­6­N­B­X­W including stevia, rice or soy milk, flax seed, olive oil, cran-
gust 15 Open 08:00 - 14:00. P­J­N­G­W 16 91. Open 07:30 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 02:00, Sun berries, carrots, almonds, cashews, fruits and more. Di-
11:00 - 01:00. P­J­B­W Velvet gest it all with 100% Arabica coffee, organic ice cream,
This corner cafe would not be out of place in the more styl- revolution teas, or healthy fruit juices. Get a terrace seat
Swanky Monkey Garden ish parts of London or Paris, and it’s all too easy to fall in and remember, ‘health is wealth’.QB‑2, Tomićeva 2, tel.
You don’t have to go too far to find a terrace or courtyard love with the gorgeous ‘library’ section and lose track of (+385-1) 483 15 51. Open 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
cafe in Zagreb, but Swanky’s Monkey Garden is a great ad- your day’s plans. A nice selection of teas, and they make P­T­J­N­B­S­W
dition and one well worth visiting at least once. The walls their own cakes as well. Outdoor terracing, but the indoor
of the main bar are papered with replicas of newspapers seating is what caught our eye. Decadent, in a good way.
and documentation dating back to the building’s previous Pricey, but no more so than other such spots in the area.
life as a factory, while outside there’s a raised terrace which QB‑2, Dežmanova 9, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 44, www. www.inyourpocket.com
sits neatly in front a well tended vegetable garden and or- velvet.hr/en/caffe.html. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 -
chard. Thumbs up to the staff who organise live bands, 14:00. P­i ­T­J­A­6­G­B­W
28 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket June - September 2017 29
Nightlife Nightlife
Basement from the 1930’s. Go upstairs to the record store, listen to your are aplenty with popular choices of local and foreign req-
This subterranean hideaway is modestly named: its actually favourite music and come away with a rare vinyl record, or uisites. A terrace is available for some fresh air too. A true
a cellar offering an unforgettable wine exploration experi- step into the basement in the evening to check out the night- WOW factor!QI‑2, Nova Ves 17, tel. (+385-1) 639 67 20,
ence. An exclusive selection of wines from all over the coun- club and temporary art gallery. Pločnik is a collective lifestyle www.kaptolcinema.hr/. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
try are complimented by local cheeses, meats and sundries. concept that’s definitely not to be missed.QMeđimurska 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. P­i ­T­J­A­6­L­
Offering only Croatian products, the blend of flavors avail- 21, tel. (+385-) 091 430 07 33, www.pozitivanritam.hr/ G­B­X­W
able at excellent prices creates a uniquely unforgettable ad- plocnik. Open 09:00 - 02:00. A­6­E­B­W
venture.QB‑2, Tomićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 777 45 85, www.
basement-bar.net. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - Tesla Power House Clubs
02:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. P­J­A­G­B­W Decked in modernity (at first glance), this central location Confusion
features a set of open decks for regular DJ sets as well as copi- Situated at the beginning of Tkalčićeva, Confusion looks
Booze&Blues ous Tesla related decorations. Live music, funk rock… Every- much like any other place from the outside. Inside, how-
A very welcome addition to an already busy area, thing goes at this Zagreb dive bar. Ideally located for those ever, you’ll find that the décor is unique to say the least.
Booze&Blues is a part of New Orleans right here in Zagreb. waiting for events in nearby Kino Europa or on Trg.QB‑2, Borrowing from world religions and cultures, the walls are
Every spirit you’d likely see on Bourbon Street, open late, Varšavska 4, tel. (+385-) 098 955 81 94. Open 08:00 - 24:00, festooned with iconography and items from all over. The
and live music Thursday, Friday, and Saturdays. There’s a Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. P­T­J­6­E­B­X­W menu is as expansive, with kangaroo and crocodile avail-
Heineken tap made from a functional saxophone which is able. The non-smoking area is abysmal, unfortunately, and
worth a visit alone.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 84, tel. (+385-1) 483 The Place is not smoke free at any stage of the day.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva
77 65, www.booze-and-blues.com. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Make a night of it at ‘The Place Bar’ which offers more than 15, tel. (+385-) 095 757 8215, www.confusion.hr/. Open
Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. P­T­J­A­6­E­B­X­W 35 world brands of bourbon and whiskey, over 10 brands 08:00 - 04:00. P­i ­T­J­A­V­B­K­X­S­W
of cognac, 12 brands of gin and 60 types of selected wines.
Corner bar The mind boggling choices are matched by its modern in- Gallery Club
Situated in the Ban Centar, urban meets Zen in this tranquil terior with a glowing effect. Judging by the name, this is the One of the nicest bars/clubs in Zagreb. Would you like a cocktail,
yet modern atmosphere. An outdoor garden terrace cre- place to be when it comes to having a drink or more.QC‑2, or a bottle of champagne to drink while dancing to world fa-
Photo by Dino Ninković, Johann Franck Archives
ates an extremely peaceful and relaxing setting amongst Teslina 12, tel. (+385-1) 658 65 57, www.theplacebar. mous DJs?QG‑5, Aleja Matije Ljubeka, tel. (+385-) 099 444 24
the contemporary and chic decor, a top escape from the eu. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 44, www.gallery.hr. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. A­B­X­W
Alternative hustle and bustle of the city. Not just a great spot to sip your 23:00. P­T­J­6­E­N­B­X­W
Jabuka morning coffee in peace, but also for a fun night out on the Johann Franck
This is the last bastion of unadulterated rock music in Zagreb. town with friends. They offer a large selection of wines, Vintage Industrial Bar If a country’s largest coffee company opens a venue, it must
Black clad sulky people dance it up on Fridays and Saturdays champagne by the glass, cognac, coffee and tea, along This American-like, rock and roll-feel bar has more than be reasonable to assume that you’re going to be happy with
in a pantomime of rock and leather, but not without a touch with sandwiches, cakes, cocktails, smoothies, natural juices, just a few drinks to offer. Grab a beer on tap with some what’s on offer. There’s a reason why chains like Starbucks
of 1980s irony and even some electro-pop.QH‑2, Jabukovac cigars and whiskey. There’s something to suit everyone’s friends and delight in a wide variety of concerts, dance don’t see Croatia as a viable market, even though seemingly
28, tel. (+385-1) 483 43 97. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. P taste! Breakfast is served from 08:00 - 12:00. In addition, performances, theater acts, film screenings or even literary all anyone does here is drink coffee and watch the world go
they host various musical evenings with multimedia equip- meetings. The brick walls, occasionally splashed with graffiti by. More terrace space than you can shake a stick at, and a
Močvara ment and projectors available for presentations.QC‑2, Ulica and black and white photography, create the perfect envi- great location at the corner of Zagreb’s main square. Reason-
This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Augusta Cesarca 4 (Next to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića), tel. ronment to wind-down. And best of all, you don’t need to ably priced food menu with affordable daily specials posted
Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also some- (+385-1) 484 53 93. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - worry about parking because the front entrance is a spa- on social media.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, tel. (+385-)
thing of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going on 01:00. P­T­J­A­6­U­E­G­B­X­W cious parking lot.QI‑4, Savska cesta 160, tel. (+385-1) 619 091 783 81 53, www.johannfranck.hr. Open 08:00 - 02:00,
most nights of the week - film nights, theatre performances, 17 15/(+385-) 098 34 00 20, www.vintageindustrial-bar. Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. P­J­A­G­B­X
literary events and art happenings included. Artist Igor Hof- Mojo bar, wine rakija & co. com. Open 20:00 - 02:00, Fri and Sat 20:00 - 05:00, Sun
bauer’s woozy comic-strip décor in the bar area is reason Enjoy a drink in the sunshine on the café terrace, overlooking 20:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. Closed August 1 - 14. P­T­ Peper
enough to call in. As a reminder, the club opens only for or- the fountain, on Trg hrvatskih velikana, or enter the under- 6­E­B­X­W A familiar name in Zagreb’s nightlife, but now in a new loca-
ganized concerts or special events, so it’s best to keep track ground bar and move into a smoky urban style ambiance. tion. Peper Ilica 5, formerly Pepermint, still continues to pro-
via the web.QI‑3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 Brick walls, adorned with black-and-white pictures, create a Vinyl vide you with great music and great drink deals. Funk, disco,
67, www.mochvara.hr. Open for organized concerts and mellow and calming atmosphere. A very large selection of A wine and whiskey bar, Vinyl is still finding its feet but has pop, rockabilly, and soul. And soul is what this venue has in
special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web or wines and rakijas are offered, which can be enjoyed at the great potential. Beautifully decorated, with as much vinyl abundance. Open all week round, it’s always worth calling
Facebook page. P­6­U­L­E­N­G­B­X­W live music nights, featuring klapas on Mondays, rock cover adorning the walls as you might expect from the name, it in to see what’s on that night. Entry is free up until 22:00
bands on Tuesdays, jazz bands on Wednesdays and DJs on has the sense of those classic beatnik venues of the 1950s. Wednesday and Thursday, and until 23:00 at the weekend.
the weekends.QD‑2, Martićeva ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 091 There’s live music several nights a week.QC‑2, Bogovićeva We’ll see you there!QC‑2, Ilica 5, www.peper-zagreb.com.
Bars 526 67 33. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun ulica 3, tel. (+385-1) 238 54 21. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Open 08:00 - 02:00, Fri 08:00 - 05:00, Sat 09:00 - 05:00,
Bacchus Jazz Bar 08:00 - 23:00. P­T­A­6­E­B­X­W Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. P­J­A­B­X­W Sun 10:00 - 02:00. P­J­A­G­X­W
Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted
grotto, but the music is still audible if you’re seated out in Pločnik WOW Bar
the courtyard on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche, Covering three floors, the concept successfully melds music Recently opened Kaptol Boutique Cinema, a unique cin-
or under a fig tree. The solitary can read one of the books with cutting-edge design and the latest-and-greatest from ema within the Kaptol Centre features an equally unique
from the shelves under the bar.QC‑3, Trg kralja Tomislava the alternative world of street art, into one multi-functional WOW Bar. The centrepiece is the phenomenal tower in the instagram.com/
16, tel. (+385-) 098 32 28 04. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed space. Visit the cafe bar on the ground floor to chill out on middle of the bar made up of old bright commercials and croatiaiyp
Sun. T­J­6­N­B­X­W vintage couches while sipping a local craft beer in a collec- logos, typical New Yorkish. The high bar stools are fitting,
tive living room-like atmosphere inspired by New York City with lots of space to mingle and nibble. Beers and wines
30 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket June - September 2017 31
Sightseeing
a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There
Essential Zagreb Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min, You
Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east
Jelačića) (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvi-
This Austro-Hungarian styled square is the true centre of jezda).QJ‑1, Mirogoj bb.
the city. There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping,
feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka)
after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully
Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-of-
sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s image arms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for
has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has
dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains
leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights in-
country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, clude two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous
this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic.QC‑2, sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković.QC‑1, Trg sve‑
Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. tog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11.

Funicular Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata)
Quite possibly the shortest funicular, or indeed any tracked This archway was one of the four original entries into the
transportation, in the world. Starting just off Ilica you can walled Gornji grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire
hitch a ride for 4kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision
that guards the entrance to Gornji grad, that is of course if of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that re-
you can’t be bothered to spend 30 seconds climbing the mained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn’t
steps that run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the lazy been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies praying in the
amongst us!QB‑2, Tomićeva bb, www.zet.hr. Open 06:30 church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a
- 22:00. testament to a people and their faith.QC‑1, Kamenita bb.

Maksimir Park & the City Zoo (Maksimirski The Cathedral of Assumption of the
park i Zoološki vrt) Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina
A perfect half-day outing for love birds, families, the four- Uznesenja)
legged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes, A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp
grasses and dirt are all a part of the equation as well as looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in
clouds, a sky and periodically the very sun! Blaring car en- the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state
gines have been removed from this place and as such it’s of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will
a great escape. The 18 hectares of lush greenery and for- push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve
est was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t for-
its kind in this part of Europe. An added bonus, Zoological get to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded;
Garden of Zagreb is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 or 12 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the
from Trg bana Josipa Jelačića east (Dubec) to the Bukovačka next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges by the
stop. The entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it;
the street.QK‑1/2, Maksimirski perivoj bb, www.zoo.hr. 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off.
Open 09:00 - 20:00. The ticket office closes at 18:30. Ad‑ It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an
mission 30/20 kn. earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time
the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exte-
Mirogoj Cemetery rior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of
Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 19:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00,
one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green 09:00, 10:00, 11:30, 19:00.QC‑1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481
cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. 47 27. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00.
Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park
and open art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in Tkalčićeva (Tkalčićeva street)
the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer You mustn’t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting hu-
house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the mans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages you to
municipality bought the complete estate and constructed wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out the vibe,
the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known ar- read, write or sleep. You’ll be amazed by the sheer number
chitect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, of people wandering around here late into the evening. It
applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions provides a unique visual for a city that you’re starting to un-
and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding derstand is very unique too!QC‑1, Tkalčićeva.

32 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing Sightseeing
excellent range of paintings, sculpture, video art and pho-
Museums tography. Mobile guides in foreign languages available as
Archaeological Museum in Zagreb well as free wi-fi connection.QJ‑4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17,
(Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu) tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, www.msu.hr. Open 11:00 - 18:00,
Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30/15 kn. U
enhanced by moody sounds and lighting. Philosophical
musings often accompany explanations of the materials, Croatian History Museum (Hrvatski po-
moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this vijesni muzej)
earth.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) The collection of the Museum includes over 200,000 ar-
487 30 00, www.amz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 tefacts from the cultural and national heritage of Croatia
- 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30/15 from the Middle Ages to the present day. As this is not
kn. its permanent address, while it reopens, only temporary
exhibitions are displayed.QB‑1, Matoševa 9, tel. (+385-1)
Arts and Crafts Museum (Muzej za um- 485 19 00, www.hismus.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun
jetnost i obrt) 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 10/5 kn.
This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered
aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amaz- Croatian School Museum (Hrvatski
ing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very školski muzej)
ornate and curious. Mobile guides in foreign languages Trace the development of the school system in this part
are available. People with special needs also have guides. of the world right up to the present day. Fun for educators
These services do not cost extra.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita and kids alike. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide
10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Open 10:00 - can be organized.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita 4/1, tel. (+385-
19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 40/20 1) 485 57 16, www.hsmuzej.hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu
kn. U 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admis‑
sion 15/10 kn.
Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej su-
vremene umjetnosti) Dražen Petrović Museum (Muzej Dražen
Founded in 1954, the museum has relocated to a impres- Petrović)
sive building as you pass the Sava River. The collection Croatian sensation Dražen Petrović, the one nicknamed
here allows for the avant-garde to speak for itself with an ‘basketball’s Mozart’ is Europe’s greatest ever basketball
export. The museum presents winning medals, rewards,
personal items, letters and gifts from fans. A guided tour in Modern Gallery (Moderna galerija) Museum of Illusions (Muzej iluzija)
English is available if you pre-book for a group of 15.QA‑4, The Modern Gallery is one of the richest of its kind in all Test your perception at this amazing and unique Museum
Trg Dražena Petrovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 31 46, www. of Croatia; rich in culture that is. Located in the centre of in this part of Europe where things do not appear as they
drazenpetrovic.net. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - Zagreb, in the Vranyczany Palace built during the 1880s, it should, and that is where the fun begins. An adventure of
14:00. Closed Sun. Admission 20/10 kn. U hosts permanent exhibits featuring more than 750 works visual and sensual stimuli is about to test your very per-
of modern and ultra-modern art from painters, sculptors, ception, or is it deception? Best of all, a transformation of
Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski as well others who work in new media. From the staircase the premises has just occurred with stereograms, illusion
muzej) and grand lobby, to the halls on the first and second floors, chairs and a kaleidoscope amongst the new features. Test
High fashion collides with odd impracticality to pro- visitors are presented with a harmonious image of cohabi- your skills with amazing visual and sensory challenges
vide a unique look at the people of this country through tation of old and new, yesterday and today, as more than open for all ages and in both Croatian/English. Find the
the ages. Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. two centuries of Croatian modern art await.QC‑3, Andrije solutions to all of the illusions!QB‑2, Ilica 72, tel. (+385-1)
Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 55/(+385-1) 604 10 44, 799 96 09, www.muzejiluzija.com. Open 09:00 – 22:00.
and groups in English will cost 150kn per tour.QB‑3, Trg www.moderna-galerija.hr. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun Tickets 40/25 kn. Family ticket 100kn (includes two
Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, www.emz.hr. 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 40/30 kn. U adults plus small children).
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 20/15kn. U Museum of Broken Relationships (Muzej Technical Museum Nikola Tesla (Tehnički
prekinutih veza) muzej Nikola Tesla)
Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović Mu- Filled with mementos of relationships that have in one way All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propeller-pow-
seums (Atelijer Meštrović - Muzeji Ivan or another - gone wrong! It first started here in Zagreb and ered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space
Meštrović) has toured around the world stockpiling an amazing array stations and a planetarium where you can view a simula-
Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and of items and descriptions that may have you thinking twice. tion of the night sky. Pre-bookings for a foreign language
artist. He actually lived with his family and worked in this Funny yet serious, it won the Kenneth Hudson Award in 2011 guide can be organized.QA‑4, Savska cesta 18, tel.
house from 1920’s until 1942 when he left Croatia. And it for the most innovative European Museum.QC‑1, Sv. Ćirila i (+385-1) 484 40 50, www.tmnt.hr. Open 09:00 - 17:00,
is here where he completed many of his art works and Metoda 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 21, www.brokenships.com. Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20kn.
monuments including The Indians - a monument in Chi- Open 09:00 - 22:30. Admission 30/20 kn. Planetarium admission 15kn.
cago.QB‑1, Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, www.
mestrovic.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. www.inyourpocket.com
Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.
34 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket June - September 2017 35
Sightseeing Sightseeing
dren love this place especially, for it has all the creatures of the
wild in it, only these aren’t capable of dismembering passers- Galleries
by.QB‑1, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 17 00, www.hpm. Art Pavilion (Umjetnički paviljon)
hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on Trg
Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20/15kn. kralja Tomislava. Inside you’ll find a superb home for all kinds of
domestic and international art, great beneficiaries of the gener-
The Mimara Museum (Muzej Mimara) ous natural lighting that spills in from the top. Pre-bookings for
The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load of a foreign language guide can be organized.QC‑3, Trg kralja
artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all times Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, www.umjetnicki-
including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much more. It spans paviljon.hr. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.
an amazing three millennia and much of it Christian in theme. Closed July 17 - August 1. Admission varies depending on
Museum of Illusions Archives If you pre-book for a group of 20 people minimum, then a exhibition.
guide is available in English.QB‑3, Trg Franklina Roosevelta
5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, www.mimara.hr. Open 10:00 Lauba – The House for People and Art
The Croatian Museum of Naive Art - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. (Kuća za ljude i umjetnost Lauba)
(Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti) Admission 30 - 40kn. U Known as the House for People and Art, it has a collection
Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art of 500 works created over the last 60 years and includes
is a highly colourful and often political style of painting. This The Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters some of the greatest names in recent Croatian art. Exhi-
museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imagery is HAZU (Strossmayerova galerija starih bitions change monthly. The perfect setting for art and
undeniably fascinating. Pre-bookings for a foreign language majstora HAZU) interaction!QH‑3, Baruna Filipovića 23a, tel. (+385-1)
guide can be organized at a charge of 200 - 300kn for every Bishop Strossmayer was a master of many things, that’s in- 630 21 15, www.lauba.hr. Open 14:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00
30 minutes.QC‑1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 disputable. When he wasn’t out mastering these things - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 25/10 kn. U
11, www.hmnu.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. he was donating works and much of it is housed here. The
Admission 25/15kn. overhead lighting kicks your enjoyment of the oil paintings Oris House of Architecture
into overdrive. Masters featured: Bruegel, Carpeaux, Benković The Oris House of Architecture is an all-encompassing
The Croatian Natural History Museum and Proudhon to name but a few. Those who pre-book and hub of architecture, design and art (Multimedia culture
(Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej) request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost centre). It’s a creative meeting place that hosts confer-
Taxidermy dominates and some of it is larger than a jar can 100kn per tour.QC‑3, Trg N. Š. Zrinjskog 11, tel. (+385-1) 489 ences, lectures and seminars dedicated to the arts. There’s
hold - spiders, bugs, lions, vultures, rocks and much more. Chil- 51 17, www.hazu.hr. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 19:00, a multimedia hall, library, and even a restaurant Voncimer
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30/10kn. with chairs donated by architects from around the world.
QD‑3, Kralja Držislava 3, tel. (+385-1) 377 81 77, www.
Typhlology Museum (Tiflološki muzej) oris.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J
This museum has a twofold function: enabling visually im-
paired and sighted visitors the opportunity to enjoy art and The Croatian Society of Artists
sculpture with all their senses, and acquainting the sighted Circular and galleried, lit up at night in neon colours, this
with the experience of blindness through installations such building designed by pre-eminent Croatian sculptor Ivan
as the Dark Room, which you pass through with only a white Meštrović is a stunning piece of architecture. As its popu-
stick to guide you. You can also learn about the development lar name džamija testifies, it was converted to a mosque
of Braille and how to write it. Exhibits are well labelled in Eng- in World War II. Restored to its original purpose in 1993,
lish and Braille, and wheelchair access is enabled throughout. the gallery is now an exhibition space for all forms of vi-
Special guides for the blind are available.QD‑3, Draškovićeva sual arts, while a new mosque has been purpose-built in
80/ll, tel. (+385-1) 481 11 02, www.tifloloskimuzej.hr. Open the Borovje neighbourhood.QTrg žrtava fašizma 16, tel.
10:00 - 16:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission (+385-1) 461 18 19/(+385-1) 461 18 18, www.hdlu.hr.
20/15kn. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

Zagreb City Museum (Muzej grada Za-
greba) Landmarks
With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum The locals feel the following are somehow representative
will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps elucidate of their culture. Either that or they passionately attempt to
the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an indepen- deny their relevance. In any event, here they are.
dent country in the 20th century especially. Much of it is inter-
active also, which makes it a nice option for an educational ex- grič Tunnel (Tunel Grič)
perience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits Built during WWII as a shelter, this 350-metre long tunnel
adapted for the blind. A truly awesome place! Mobile guides in was recently opened to the public and is located between
foreign languages are available in addition to special guides for Radićeva and Mesnička Streets in the heart of the city cen-
the blind.QC‑1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, www. tre. A range of cultural events are set to be hosted there
mgz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - whilst in the meantime it is a fine safe-haven if having to
14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30/20kn. U escape the hustle and bustle of the city.QB/C‑2. Open
09:00 - 23:30.
36 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket June - September 2017 37
Sightseeing Sightseeing
Berlin Wall in Zagreb
One of the original pieces of the Berlin Wall can be found
in Zagreb in front of the German embassy and Goethe’s
institute at Ulica Grada Vukovara 64. It was donated to the
city of Zagreb on the 20th anniversary of its dismantling by FRESHWATER AQUARIUM KARLOVAC
German businessman Axel Brauer. Many cities around the
world now have a piece of the famous Wall, which is one of
the most sought after souvenirs in the world. The original
Wall was constructed in 1961 and separated West and East
Germany till its demise on November 9th 1989.

Meridian 16°
The meridian 16° east of Greenwich is a line of longitude
that extends from the North to the South Pole and runs
through the city of Zagreb. A sculpture dedicated to the
16th Meridian was created for the occasion of the 1987
Summer Universiade held in Zagreb. It’s located at the
large intersection of Vukovarska and Držićeva streets. A
closer analysis revealed that the true meridian actually
passes some 200 metres to the east — but nobody seems
to care.

Culturrun Sightrunning Croatia Archives Napoleon’s Milestone
On the South side of the river Sava, by the footbridge that
The Croatian State Archives (hrvatski Zagreb Welcomes You - Model City spans it, can be found what some call Napoleon’s Mile-
Državni arhiv) Measuring just under 13 square metres in area, the entire stone. It’s located close to the entrance to the Zagreb Hip-
On Marulić Square - part of the splendid, architecturally piece features over 2500 addresses, and over 400 distinct podrome, and the Kajzerica neighbourhood, and dates
planned Green Horseshoe - stands a grand Art Nouveau structures, all cast beautifully in bronze. The south and back to the 19th century when the French Emperor Napo-
building - one of the finest piece of architecture in Zagreb. west facing sides of the model feature short texts refer- leon established what was then known as the Illyrian Prov-
This building now houses the Croatian State Archive, the encing the history of Zagreb in both Croatian and English, inces — a short-lived autonomous province of the French
home of documentation of state importance. The Reading and they also showcase the original coat of arms of Zagreb Empire with the Sava as its border. The name Illyrian was
Room, which has undergone a full restoration completed and the seal of Kaptol. Also along the base you can see used to give credence to the Neoclassicist re-labeling of
at the end of 2004, is particularly fine. Guided tours are a number of scenes which depict holidays tied to Croa- the Dalmatian coast, which was known in antiquity as Il-
available in English, German or Croatian at 10:00, 13:00 tia and the capital. The model was sculpted by Professor lyria.
and 14:00. 20kn per person.QB‑4, Marulićev trg 21, tel. Damir Mataušić, and has already ‘replaced’ the clock on Trg
(+385-1) 480 19 99/(+385-1) 482 92 44, 480 19 21, www.
arhiv.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Thu 08:00 - 18:00. Closed
ban Jelačić as the default meeting place for many of the
locals.QC‑2, Ulica Tome Bakača.
Tesla Tower
For the 11th edition of the INmusic festival, held in May of
THE ONLY FRESHWATER
Sat, Sun. 2016 at Jarun Lake in Zagreb, the city erected a 30 meter AQUARIUM IN CROATIA
replica of the Wardenclyffe Tower, also known as the Tesla
The Lotrščak Tower and Grič cannon interesting facts Tower. The tower contains 3,500 zinked metal parts repli- • 100 fish species
(Kula Lotrščak i Grički top)
If in Zagreb you hear the blast of cannon fire, fear not, it
These places have that unmistakable air of the bizarre, ec-
lectic and/or funky hanging about them making them a
cating the original structure. The original was 57 meters
high with a spherical top 20 meters in diameter, and was
• 20 endemic species
simply means it’s midday. This auditory onslaught is not an perfect destination. designed by Nikola Tesla in New York between 1901 and • 25 aquariums
elaborate pigeon-scaring scheme. According to one leg-
end, a cannon shot from the Lotrščak tower soared over Alley of Sculptures - Open-Air gallery
• 5.000 specimens
the river Sava and landed in the Turks’ encampment, right on the banks of the Sava aquatika
on a platter of chicken that was being carried to the Pasha After a four-year hiatus, sculptor Alan Novoselac and the OPENING HOURS:
for his lunch. The Pasha decided against attacking a city Croatian Association of Artists (HDLU), began setting Freshwater aquarium Karlovac 01.04.-31.10. // 10:00 – 20:00
of fearsome sharpshooters so Zagreb escaped invasion. up sculptures by Croatian artists and sculptors at the Al- Karlovac is famous for its four rivers, each one just as 01.11.-31.03. // 10:00 – 18:00
Since this ace shot was fired at noon, a cannon has been ley of Sculptures in May of this year. It was opened with lovely as the other. This beautiful modern aquarium
fired at that time from the same tower ever since. Sited in the launching of the 12th sculpture in the series, by art- is devoted to local freshwater life, enabling us to CONTACT:
the Upper Town, the tower originally was part of the city’s ist Zlatko Bourek, called Međaš (Border) Against Spells get to know our fishy friends better and understand B. Č. Čavleka 1A, Karlovac
defences, and later served as a prison. Nowadays, it houses and Floods. Starting with the thought that: “The Drava, more fully just how rich in beauty and biodiversity info@aquariumkarlovac.com
a gallery and an art shop, and the view from the top is well Danube and Sava rivers often rise to your doorstep, that’s the Karlovac region is.QUlica Branka Čavlovića +385 47 65 91 12
worth the climb.QB/C‑2, Strossmayerovo šetalište 9, tel. why we carry our houses on our heads and bring them to Čavleka 1a, Karlovac, tel. (+385-47) 65 91 12, www.
(+385-1) 485 17 68, www.gkd.hr/kula-lotrscak/. Open safe places.” Bourek makes his sculpture a talisman against aquariumkarlovac.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admis‑ www.aquariumkarlovac.com
09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. 20/10 kn. floods and pays tribute to all that have contributed to pre- sion 60/35kn.
venting the rivers from breaking their banks.
38 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket June - September 2017 39
Sightseeing
1902 to wirelessly transmit messages and images across For kids
the Atlantic. Rumours say the original tower was de- Backo Express
stroyed in 1917 to prevent it from being used by German The largest model train set in Southeast Europe. It is a min-
spies, others say it was scrapped to cover unpaid debts. iature wonderland where no detail has been spared. With
a kilometre of tracks winding from underfoot to overhead,
Zagreb Mummy this miniature world is a favourite for small children, while
Perhaps the most famous relic in Croatia is kept at the Ar- at the same time just as interesting for discerning adults
chaeological Museum. The mummified body from Thebes of all ages. Enthusiasts of the genre will be mesmerized
was bought by Mihael Bari in Egypt in 1848-49, which you by the over 100 model train compositions: featuring pas-
may think seems perfectly reasonable, yet the mummy is senger trains to freighters and everything in between. Not
Etruscan and had no business being across the Mediterra- to be outdone, hundreds of roads are set into the stun-
nean. The Etruscans controlled large parts of west Italy, in- ning scenery and are alive will all manner of moving mo-
cluding modern day Tuscany, from around 8 to 5 B.C. and tor vehicles; complete with stoplights and traffic signals.
only basics of their language, which is pre-indo-European, Unique to Backo is a model ski hill complete with tiny ski-
are understood. The Zagreb Mummy, like many celebri- ers carving up the face of this one-of-a-kind feature.QB‑2,
ties, is actually more famous for her clothes than her per- Gundulićeva 4, tel. (+385-) 098 20 28 83, www.backo.
sonal talents. After her owner died it was discovered that hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 15-25kn.
the bandages the mummy was wrapped in are strips of
a book made of linen. This book is the longest preserved
text in the Etruscan language and appears to be some- 24 Hours in Zagreb
thing similar to a liturgical calendar. The mummy is on per- Morning glory
manent display but her bonds are locked away and only If you have reached our capital in the early hours of the
revealed to experts.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19. morning then rise and shine for the smell of coffee is only
a stone throw away and we recommend a hot sip to start
Zagreb’s Solar System your day. Let it be known, coffee culture is almost bibli-
Ever wondered what the great big metal ball on cal in Croatia. And if you happen to arrive on a Saturday
Bogovićeva street is? It’s, of course The Sun - a sculpture morning, then you’re just in time for Špica, which is where
made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971. In 2004, Davor Preis created local city folk head out for coffee, mingling and giggling as
a scale model of the solar system around this mighty sun they talk about their week, hot city topics and more. Dress
at the following locations throughout the city: Mercury code is pretty suave as this is when there is a true buzz in
(Margaretska 3), Venus (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3), Earth the air, and it’s right in the heart of town. Simply find a seat
(Varšavska 9), Mars (Tkalčićeva 21), Jupiter (Voćarska 71), on Flower Square, order your beverage and see how the
Saturn (Račićeva 1), Uranus (Siget 9), Neptune (Kozari put), citizens of Zagreb breathe, sensing that impulse of the city,
Pluto (Aleja Bologne - underpass). Preis never revealed there and then.
the locations of the planets, so finding them turned into
a game lasting until the last planet was “discovered” in Next on the agenda, head on up to the Dolac Market, the
2006. heart and soul of the city and the place to taste authen-
tic fresh food from nearby town surroundings. The market
is out in the open and if you head down to the indoor
city tours level, the dairy section is filled with specialty cheeses and
creams. We suggest you buy a fine loaf of real Zagorje corn
Culturrun Sightrunning Croatia bread, and then add some cheese and sour cream for
The healthiest and most active way of sightseeing by your very first breakfast in Zagreb.
running. Run trough the most magical parts of Zagreb,
Dubrovnik or Split with running coaches and discover After Dolac, head to the corner of Cesarčeva and Bakačeva
the city’s hidden spots!Qwww.minutadvije.hr/en/ Street where you will find a scaled model of Zagreb in a
culturrun. nutshell; a so called mini me version of the city. With the
model you will get a perspective of what the centre of
Meetstreetart tour Zagreb looks like and where exactly you will pass whilst
If you want to see all the faces of our city, then join promenading the city streets.
us on Meet street art tour, because everyone knows
where the life happens - in the street! We want to Next on the agenda is a mere walk up to the Zagreb Ca-
show you the places which are usually off the sight- thedral fittingly named the Cathedral of the Assumption
seeing routes, but are the vast importance for the of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Upon entry, visit its Treasury
development of the local street art scene.Qwww. filled with fascinating liturgical relics whilst the Sacristy
minutadvije.hr/en/meetstreetart. holds an altarpiece depicting the Calvary, a discernible
artwork from the famous painter Albrecht Dürer.

40 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
Heading away from the cathedral across Skalinska Street Zoom zoom afternoon
and Krvavi Most, your next destination ought to be the Lunch is calling and when in Zagreb do as the Zagrebians
Stone Gate which is one of the age old entrances to the do! You simply have to choose from one of the restaurants
Upper Town. Whilst on the way, do check for the exact time and try some of the local specialties on offer. Keep an eye
of day by looking at the Sun Clock on Tkalčićeva Street; it out for zagorska purica i mlinci, better known as Zagorje
was made by Božidar Jušić in 1955 as part of his Masters turkey with dried flatbread. This traditional meal is a ‘must
studies. The Stone Gate is one of the symbols of the city try’ that had been served at both Viennese and English
of Zagreb and it maintains a painting of Our Lady which is courts long ago. For lovers of food more green and natural,
one of the oldest of its kind and owned by the city. In 1931, there are various homemade stews with vegetables to tin-
it was adorned with a crown of gold and gems. As tradi- gle everyone’s taste buds.
tion would have it, light a candle whilst at the Stone Gate
to help spread peace and solidarity throughout the world. After lunch, take a walk to Park Zrinjevac, you’ll come
across the
The Upper Town is the historical centre of the city and is meteorological column on the northern side which gives
definitely coated with an abundant history. Get your cam- you the exact temperature in degrees, or relax under the
era ready and your sightseeing journey should entail the age old trees which offer plenty of cover.
Church of Saint Mark with its multi-coloured bell tower
and picturesque roof adorned with various coats of arms, Further down, the statue of King Tomislav stands mighty
and the interior is filled with frescoes by Jozo Kljaković and proud and is in the direction of the Esplanade Ho-
and savoured works by the great Ivan Meštrović. tel, a stopping ground for the once famous Orient Express.
Here is where you can devour the famous dessert known as
Lunch is almost upon you so before you settle for a well- štrukle. Once your back on your feet and reenergised, am-
earned meal, hop on down to Basaričekova Street for a beer ble along to the Maršal Tito Square and head towards the
in Zagreb’s oldest inn Pod starim krovovima, translated as Museum of Arts and Crafts, here you can get a compel-
‘Under the old roofs’, this used to be known as Beer Street ling copy of a platter depicting the triumph of Bacchus and
as the city’s first brewery was established here long ago. Ariadne, which was created in a workshop on Dean Street
in London, and has for a long time been part of the Mu-
One final stop off point is the plateau on Gradec which of- seum’s collection. You can also see the bronzed clock mark-
fers a majestic panoramic view of Zagreb, the perfect mo- ing the first flight of the balloon in 1783 by the Montgolfier
ment to soak in Croatia’s capital for all its beauty. We did say brothers. Close by is the Croatian National Theatre, an
one final stop but you just have to take a snapshot with the architectural delight with the famous wall fountain The
sitting statue of the legendary Croatian Source of Life by Ivan Meštrović.
writer Antun Gustav Matoš on a nearby park bench for
the perfect selfie. Finally, you can head down to the city Eventful evening
centre via the famous funicular which takes approximately As the sun sets the buzz in the air moves to another level
64 seconds. We say you time it, just for the fun of it all! in the heart of town! You’re best to select from one of the
restaurants to wine and dine to kick off your night. If you
Photo by Julien Duval, TZGZ Archives like good beer, take the opportunity in trying local ‘craft’
beer or dabble in some Croatian wines in one of the wine
bars. Zagreb residents love to socialise in bars, and you’ll
find a strong contingent at good rock, pop and jazz gigs.
If you are keen for more, check out the local tourist guides
and concerts in local clubs and venues.

And finally, before you say goodbye to Zagreb, pay a last
visit to the main square, give the statue of Ban Jelačić a
cheerio for it is the central monument of the square. Last
minute goodies can be found nearby at the famous Croa-
tian Kraš chocolate and candy store, don’t forget to visit the
Manduševac Fountain on the main square also, soak in
the atmosphere for a minute and imagine yourself throw-
ing in a coin and making a wish as was permissible long
ago, maybe even a wishful return trip to Zagreb.

Fun fact
The three main chandeliers in the Zagreb cathedral once
decorated the Gold Coast Casino in Las Vegas!

42 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com
Green Zagreb Green Zagreb
Only half an hour's drive, Medvednica nature park is of medieval times. During the Medieval Days festival (30
heaven for outdoor activities. Do as the locals do and go on September-1 October), you can watch knights fencing,
a two-hour hike to Sljeme hilltop (1035 m). You can also hear old locals legends, and even brush shoulders with the
catch the regular bus 102 from Mihaljevac and walk along notorious Black Queen – Zagreb's most famous evil ruler.
the mountain ridge where trails are not as steep. For a big-
ger adrenaline rush, do some cycling, trail running, even Cinephiles too can enjoy a unique setting under the starry
free rock climbing – all available on the mountain. When Zagreb sky. The program of the popular Fantastic Zagreb
you feel tired, stop in one of many mountain huts and re- Film Festival (29 June - 8 July) is screened at Tuškanac
plenish with a hearty home-cooked meal. Summer Stage – a remarkable open-air cinema hid-
den deep inside Tuškanac forest. Other types of art thrive
Getting around with no carbon footprint throughout the summer (25 May-7 October) in the hip Art
When it comes to eco-friendly transport, nothing beats the Park just below chestnut-lined Strossmayer Promenade.
simple art of walking. With elegant streets built to human Launched by the local street artists, this fun initiative turned
measure and most highlights close at hand, Zagreb is a a once neglected playground into an interactive art colony
ramblers’ delight. If you want to shift to a higher gear, join for people of all ages. Head there to watch street artists
the growing community of runners and joggers. For rec- paint murals in real time or learn about green initiatives
reational purposes, the banks of the river Sava are ideal, but promoted there, such as protecting the Adriatic Sea from
exploring the city's highlights while running is quite unique overfishing or saving rescued city animals.
too. You can join CulturRun (www.minutadvije.hr) guided
tours that accommodate all fitness levels. A special green program is also part of the cutting edge
neighbourhood festival Design District Zagreb. Rooted
Cycling in Zagreb is booming too, both as a means of in the microlocation around Martićeva street, the program
transport and a way to explore the city. With more and promotes globally important topics, such as improving
more locals cycling on a daily basis, Zagreb is expanding its community living and managing resources responsibly.
Photo by Ana Mihalić, ZeGeVeGe Festival Archives network of cycling paths and lanes (map of recommended Head to Ratkaj Passage near Martićeva to catch the fes-
routes available at the Cycling Union website http://sindi- tival’s interactive events.
the look and outlook of plane trees is home to various open air festivals: from street katbiciklista.hr). Even if you arrive in Zagreb without a bike,
the city food to film screenings. Every evening (4-13 August, 19:00- you can join the public bike sharing system Nextbike with Healthy foodie experiences
23:00) you can join a retro dance party or catch a prom- 20 terminals all over the city. Register on site, via website Green and organic thinking is particularly strong on the Za-
By Andrea Pisac enade concert held in the park's Music Pavilion (Saturdays (www.nextbike.hr) or mobile app for a one-time fee of 79 greb foodie scene. But before you experience the explosion
Zagreb's official colour is blue, but after a short walk 29 July-28 August, 11:00-13:00). KN. The first 30 minutes are free and each additional hour of new trends, don't skip the classic small-scale shopping
through the city, you'll be dazzled by green. Lush parks and is 8 KN. at Zagreb’s farmers' markets. Colourful Dolac market fea-
leafy squares pop around every corner, and streets, even Plant lovers will thrive in the Botanical Garden – a true tures seasonal fruit and vegetables from all around Croatia,
those busy with traffic, are lined with trees. island of tranquility in the city centre. This 4.7 ha large Once you're fitted with two wheels, you can cycle around including eco produce from family farms (OPG) like Sever
English-style arboretum features more than 10,000 plant the centre or head to Lake Jarun with more than 10 km of and Veselić. The market’s ground level is a treasure trove of
Head north from the centre and you can quickly be on species, lily-covered ponds and plenty of shaded benches cycling trails. The next option is to go sightseeing on a bike. artisan dairy, meat, pickled and bakery produce. Look out
shaded trails that meander through Tuškanac forest. Even to enjoy a peaceful moment (open Mon-Tue 9:00-14.30; It’s a great way to cover more ground and to get themed especially for Gligora cheese and Veronika fresh dairy.
the city's northern skyline is adorned with the green Med- Wed-Sun 9:00-19:00). and custom-made guidance from local tour agencies, such
vednica mountain. Not many European cities have such an as BlueBike, Lobagola (www.lobagola.com), Žuti Mačak Most small scale artisan food in Croatia carries the OPG la-
easy access to pristine nature like Zagreb. If you want to be surrounded by green expanses with- (www.zutimacak.hr) and Pedaloo (www.pedaloo.eu). bel, which stands for family-run farm. You will find these
out leaving the city, head east towards Zagreb's biggest delicacies at markets or speciality food shops such as
But green is not only the colour of Zagreb's looks. In recent and oldest park Maksimir. With countless walking trails, If you arrive in Zagreb with your own e-vehicle, don’t worry. Košara&Kašeta (Britanski trg 2) or Grga Čvarak (Kutnjački
years, it's become the city's outlook too. Sustainable living, open commons and five lakes, Maksimir is the best place There are plenty of e-stations to recharge your car, bike and put 9). The choice ranges from organic fruit and vegetables,
eco-friendly transport, slow and organic food and clothing to escape the urban hubbub. Every Saturday (10:00-19:00) scooter. Check the full list at www.puni.hr. homemade pastries to free-range meet and dairy. In recent
– all these are ideas that have taken root and are now blos- throughout the summer, join Picnic in Maksimir and have

Explore...
soming in Croatia's capital. your lunch on the grass with plenty of entertainment. You Red hot events at green venues
can even take the little ones to the nearby Zagreb Zoo All year round the leafy Zagreb outdoors is the go-to place
The city's inviting green spaces now host various events (open daily 9:00-20:00) to see 275 animal species, includ- to get active or to relax. But when summer arrives, things
and festivals which promote ecological thinking. Restau- ing the rare snow leopard and red panda. get taken to a new level with exciting events and festivals
rants and deli shops are stocked with healthy food, even heating up the atmosphere. The brightest of all is the Fire- ... the city by running!
getting around Zagreb can be done in a mindful way. So Those who love straying off the beaten path will enjoy Za- works Festival at Bundek lake and park when world's
here's the list of all things green that show Zagreb's true greb's hidden pockets of semi-wild greenery. Just around best pyrotechnicians light up Zagreb’s skies.
colours. the corner from the busy Ilica street, several walking trails
lead into Tuškanac forest. The prettiest one, Dubravka Nights are also magical at the 13th century Medvedgrad
Lounging among greenery Trail, meanders gently uphill until it reaches Cmrok – a Castle perched on Medvednica mountain. The fort is
Nothing is more leisurely than enjoying a quiet moment in delightful meadow with a view of the famous Mirogoj famous for the glorious views of the entire city but Med-
a park. The centre of Zagreb boasts plenty of landscaped cemetery. If you're looking for a secluded place, ideal for vedgrad Music Nights (11-15 July) spice up the noctur-
oases but the dearest one to the locals is Zrinjevac Park. a romantic picnic, head to Rokov perivoj – a small park nal ambience even more. Just before the summer is over, booking@sightrunningcroatia.com + 091 / 2012 456
During summer, this nature retreat lined with century-old above Britanski Square. climb to Medvedgrad once again to catch a reenactment
44 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket June - September 2017 45
Green Zagreb Shopping
years Mali Plac [Small Market] has been the locals' favour- Shopping Malls Link Gallery
ite place to forage for organic food. The initiative grew from A woman’s fetish isn’t far away as the heart of Zagreb and Shop till you drop store packed with hand-made Croatian
a small gathering in the attic of a Zagreb building to host- its outskirts is full of shopping centres. Each centre can be designer products including lamps, unique ceramics, gifts
ing regular market days. Throughout June, catch Mali Plac reached by tram or bus with the Kaptol Centre and Centar for kids, jewelry and accessories. And with friendly staff
every Wednesday at Branimir shopping mall (Branimirova Cvjetni walking distance from the main square. The bigger who are happy to tell you a little story behind each item,
29) or join their Thursday Picnic event on Vranyczany Pla- centres require public transport and include Avenue Mall why not bring home that perfect souvenir? So come in
teau (Upper Town) during August. in Novi Zagreb, Arena Centre in Lanište, City Centre One and take a peek!QC‑1, Radićeva 27, tel. (+385-1) 481 32
West in Jankomir, Point Shopping Centre in Vrbani, City 94. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
If you fancy cooking at home, health food shops are the Centre One East in Žitnjak, and Garden Mall in Dubrava.
place to stock up. They sell fresh eco food but also organic What else can we say but, ‘shop till you drop’ Love_Ana
and GMO-free grains, spices, pickles and all other ingredi- A recently established fixture in the field of interior design,
ents loved by vegetarians and vegans. The best ones are this is certainly worth a curious visit for the casual passer-
Bio&Bio (Ilica 70, Oktogon Passage), Garden (Masarykova Antiques by, and a must-visit by anyone considering opening some
1, Martićeva 12), Farma (Masarykova 24), Greencajg (Vu- Apartman avant-garde gallery or restaurant. In addition to Ana’s own
kovarska 14, Heinzelova 4) and Ceker (Nova Ves 73a). Lamps, candlesticks, decorative bottles and other unique expertise, the shop stocks and hosts sculptures and arti-
stuff.QA‑2, Ilica 61, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 96, www.tiffany. sanal jewellery.QB‑2, Dežmanova 4, tel. (+385-1) 580 16
When it comes to eating out green and organic, a few hr/. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A 75, www.loveanadesign.com. Open 13:00 - 20:00, Sat
restaurants stand out. Vegehop (Vlaška 79) serves a great 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
range of vegetarian meals, while Bistro Zrno (Medulićeva Galerija Kerubin
20) is famous for cooking up a vegan storm. If you're on Antiques, furniture, arts and crafts, jewellery and all kinds Mara etno butik
the go, check out Green Point (Varšavska 10) for quick of other stuff.QC‑1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 98. A little boutique run by the charming Vesna Milković, who
and excellent vegetarian bites. Fans of burgers will like the Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A specialises in fashion design incorporating materials and
concept of Submarine BBQ (Frankopanska 11) where all motifs drawing on Croatian cultural heritage. Her fine lace
ingredients are locally sourced – you can ask for each one tops and bags make delightful and unique gifts or souve-
specifically as you wait to be served. To round off a meal, A good old vinyl nirs at sensible prices. Items made to order.QB‑2, Ilica 49,
indulge your sweet tooth with a range of healthy desserts. Dancing Bear tel. (+385-1) 480 65 11, www.etnobutik-mara.com. Open
Dessert House (Savska 95) serves excellent raw cakes CD shop, extensive selection outside the mainstream. 10:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:30. Closed Sun. July 31 - August
Medvednica Nature Park Archives while Vis à Vis by Vincek (Tomićeva 2) makes gluten- and QB‑2, Gundulićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 50, www.dancingbear. 23 Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
dairy-free sweets to die for. Summer wouldn't be complete hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A
Photo by Matej Čelar, ZeGeVeGe Festival Archives without a refreshing ice-cream and the best one is the
homemade Medenko, served at Cogito café (Varšavska Dirty Old Shop
11) or stocked in Veronika deli (Ilica 62). The one stop ideal shop for all lovers of vinyl, comics, t-
shirts with cool prints, posters, original figures of charac-
Green souvenir to take home ters from favorite shows, bands, movies and all retro to
After you've explored the best of green Zagreb, it makes cool!QI‑3, Tratinska 18, tel. (+385-1) 557 38 88, www.
sense to pick up a unique sustainable souvenir. Head to dirtyoldempire.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -
Kantarion shop (Martićeva 14c) and choose something to 14:00. Closed Sun.
pamper yourself or your loved ones. This mecca of natural
cosmetics boasts creams, lotions, healing and essential oils, Free Bird
shampoos and baths salts all made with pure organic in- We dare you to browse Free Bird’s vinyl collection without
gredients. The lines of products are as varied as the scents getting giddy. Expand your experience of Balkan perform-
and colours, featuring local herbalists and artisan cosmetic ers in their regional music section. Misplaced your turn-
chemists. table? They’ve got a roomful starting at 300 kn.QA‑4, Tra‑
For a longer-lasting gift, pick a T-shirt or underwear made tinska 50, tel. (+385-1) 382 18 70, www.freebird.hr. Open
from organically grown cotton and beautifully designed by 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From 9 kn. A
Photo by Silvio Lončarić, Art Park Archives Brokula&Ž (brokulaz.com). Track down their collection in
Bio&Bio shops or Take Me Home souvenir shop (Tomićeva
4) and make sure to check for a fun message hidden on Croatian design
the inside. Fashion Boutique Dora
Just for the ladies, boutique Dora is a traditional fam-
Awareness of sustainable living culminates with the popu- ily business that has been designing and manufactur-
lar Zegevege festival (28-29 September) – the largest ing beautiful women’s clothing for over 30 years. Dora is
green event in the region. If you’re visiting Zagreb in Sep- known for their quality production and feminine designs.
tember, head to Ban Jelačić Square and join thousands of Every pattern is made either bespoke or in a small series,
eco-minded people. Healthy produce and workshops on and always of the finest natural fabrics. Authentic and
various topics of eco living don’t get better than here. tailor made for you!QC‑1, Kamenita 2, tel. (+385-1) 485
17 63, www.dora-zagreb.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J­A
46 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket June - September 2017 47
Shopping
Take Me Home - Croatian Design Shop chase the game and you receive a map of Zagreb along
The perfect place to pick up some chic Croatian gifts and with a deck of cards filled with challenges; landmark chal-
souvenirs created by over 60 local designers. Tote bags lenges direct you to famous attractions whilst other cards
with traditional Croatian motifs printed on modern de- help you to meet locals and learn from them about Croa-
signs, unique jewellery, trendy notebooks and planners, tian customs and culture. When combined, the cards give
art prints, cool t-shirts, awarded kids’ toys and handmade you a true breathe of fresh air in how Zagreb and its citi-
cosmetics to take home from your trip.QB‑2, Tomićeva zens live and breathe. Additional cards offer special pow-
4 (near Funicular), tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, www. ers including discounts to particular cafes, restaurants,
takemehome.hr. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. shops etc. Be adventurous and this city tour will be one
Closed Sun. A to remember. Informative, descriptive, and inquisitive! You
can buy the game at the Kavalir Shop, located at Radićeva
Town Tales Zagreb 3.Qwww.towntalesgame.com.
Zip around Zagreb for a day in a way you never thought
possible. Town Tales is the latest craze to help tourists get
to know more about the city and its history, customs and Jewelry
culture through a card game. All you need to do is pur- Bashota
Jewellery from two end of the spectrum, choose from
modern and original designs to jewellery which has been
local tips nurturing the family tradition since 1924. Also at A-2 Ilica
69, tel.(+385-1) 484 69 41. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00
Ana-Marija Burjan - 15:00.QB‑2, Ilica 37, tel. (+385-1) 483 36 23, www.
Staccato - Porsche Design, Store Manager zlatarnica-bashota.hr. Open 08:30 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00.
Sat Open 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A
ZIYP: Where is your favorite place to drink coffee
or go out at night? Jozef Gjoni
Ana-Marija: A charming little cafe with great coffee They opened in 1971, and since then have been producing
called 'The Worst Coffee In The Town' is one of my fa- unique and one-of-a-kind pieces of jewellery. With a large
vourite placea to drink coffee; and for going out in the collection of handmade gold and silver antique pieces, as
summer one of the best places is Swanky Mint. well as traditional Croatian jewellery, adorned with pre-
cious and semi precious gemstones, they offer something
ZIYP: Where is your favourite place to relax in for everyone.QC‑2, Ulica Nikole Jurišića 10, tel. (+385-1)
Zagreb? 481 09 02, www.zlatarna-jozef-gjoni.hr. Open 08:00 -
Ana-Marija: My favourite active relaxation is hiking 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J­A
on Sljeme.
Lapidarium - Zlatarna Mario
ZIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Looking for a piece of jewelry that’s truly one-of-a-kind
Which activities do you recommend? and fits your unique individualized style? Then look no
Ana-Marija: The best way to discover Zagreb is a further because Lapidarium offers the perfect solution
walking tour to see the sights. The tour should include to your search. Not only do they supply finished jewelry,
a rest stop in one of the many green parks in the city but they also allow customers to create their own custom-
centre and of course don't forget to enjoy an hour- ized pieces for every type of occasion.QC‑1, Radićeva 10,
long coffee break like locals do. Segway tours are also tel. (+385-1) 481 39 96, www.zlatarna-mario.hr. Open
a great way to experience the city's vibe. 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J­A

​ IYP: Where is the best place to shop? What do
Z Medaković
you recommend as a souvenir from Zagreb? Specializing in handmade modern jewelry, since 1938,
Ana-Marija: I like the mixture of brand stores, concept these contemporary and unique pieces were created by
stores and small family shops in the centre of Zagreb. goldsmith, Renato Medaković.QC‑2, Frane Petrića 2,
Streets like Ilica, Masarykova and Teslina are always my tel. (+385-1) 481 27 49/(+385-) 098 182 64 70, www.
choice for shopping. Anything bought with love in zlatarna.com/. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:30. Sat
Zagreb is the best souvenir to remind you of Zagreb. 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N

​ IYP: Which of the local specialties do you recom-
Z Otvoreni atelier Lumezi
mend as a ‘must-try’ for visitors? Zagreb jeweller Lazer Lumezi has become a cult figure
Ana-Marija: Zagreb offers a great selection of excel- among the discerning fashion queens of Zagreb in the
lent craft beers, so I would definitely recommend en- 30 years of his career. Culty – maybe. Unusual – definitely.
joying some of the local craft beers. QJ‑3, Vlaška 113, tel. (+385-) 098 939 71 36. Open 11:00
- 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. N

48 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com
Shopping Shopping
Delicatessen
Bonkulović Delicacies
Take your pick with their wide range of world famous del-
icacies.QI‑2, Nova Ves 17 (Centre Kaptol), tel. (+385-1)
486 07 89, www.bonkulovic.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00.
Closed Sun. A

Crop Store
Crop Store is a great place to call into if you’re hunting for
Croatian gifts whether they be the ubiquitous red heart
or a bottle of Istrian wine. Here you will find everything
from artisanal chocolate to olive oil, from liqueurs to truf-
fles and honey. If we were to list everything then we’d
still be typing. Please, go in, peruse the shelves, thank
Shoes & Accesories Bagatt us later.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 28, www.crop.com.hr. Open
A shoo Bagatt shoes have been made for years by the Capra fam- 10:00 - 22:00.
A not to be missed shoe shop and design studio in one. ily in Italy. Now for the first time in Croatia you can peruse
Waltz in and pick out some soft leather and skinny straps to their collection of high-fashion shoes perfectly crafted Gligora
wrap around your feet. Anita’s shoes are walking sex.QD‑2, from the finest materials in their shop at Praška 10. Their Award-winning Pag cheese manufactures from Kolan,
Martićeva 19, tel. (+385-1) 388 69 44, www.ashoo.net. collection even includes animal-free footwear for the fash- located on the Island Pag.QC‑2, Dolac Market, tel.
Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N ionista with a conscience! Accessible glamour... shoes from (+385-1) 580 12 84, www.gligora.com. Open 07:00 -
Milan made with love and a smart attitude.QC‑2, Praška 14:00, Mon 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
10, tel. (+385-1) 484 11 24, www.bagatt.it. Open 09:00 -
21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. A Heritage Croatian Food
Heritage Croatian Food is a great little spot with a noble
Borovo concept: preserving Croatian gastronomic heritage and
Croatia’s largest shoe producer which manufactures and encouraging small-scale local producers by offering cus-
exports new collections as well as redesigned classics such tomers the very best foods the country has to offer. The
as the already popular Startas which happens to be cel- space is small but caters well to what they’re trying to
ebrating its 40th anniversary. There is Boromina, Borosana, achieve. Owned and run by a couple of young and ambi-
My Ballerinas and more, so it’s best to hop into a store for tious locals, the decor and concept are simple, hip and
a truly 100% authentic Croatian souvenir or gift…QC‑2, modern. Although one of them is Šime Sušić, a former
Preradovićeva 16, tel. (+385-1) 485 45 52, www.borovo. winner of MasterChef Croatia, the gastronomic offer is
hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A simple and unpretentious: focusing exclusively on well-
made toasted sandwiches, salads, cheeses, salamis, and
Cahun marinated olives and fish. It’s a hybrid between a street
Look the part with handmade millinery and hats made food style venue and a delicatessen, with products rang-
from all kinds of material.QC‑2, Pod zidom 8, tel. (+385-1) ing from olive oil to handmade chocolates which all can
481 49 75, www.cahun.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 be sampled and purchased. They make ideal gifts and
- 14:00. Closed Sun. A souvenirs, and come in attractively designed packages.
QC‑2, Petrinjska 14, tel. (+385-) 097 684 23 06, www.
Cerovečki facebook.com/heritagecroatianfood. Open 11:00 -
Handmade umbrellas.QB‑2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385-1) 484 74 21:00. (9 - 75kn). P­J ­A ­G ­B ­X ­S ­W
17, www.kisobrani-cerovecki.hr. Open 08:30 - 20:00,
Sat 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. Closed August 5 - 15. A Ivić
Presenting the best of Croatian with the accent on Dal-
Croata matia, they have an excellent array of cold meats, chees-
Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a es and wines and condiments, plus sandwiches and fresh
store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and salads to take away.QE‑2, Vlaška 64, tel. (+385-1) 461 70
more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts sev- 62, www.ivic.hr/. Open 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.
eral entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that Closed Sun. A
much more special. Also at Kaptol 13, Av. Dubrovnik 16
(shopping center Avenue Mall), Vice Vukova 6 (shopping Kandit
center Arena).QC‑2, Ilica 5 (Oktogon), tel. (+385-1) 645 Chocoholics come hence forth and try the candy and
70 52, www.croata.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - sweets from this Osijek chocolate factory. Reward yourself
15:00. Closed Sun. A with their irresistible Rum Bar and Riki Chocolate!QD‑2,
IO, Ivana Omazić, Dodie+Duda, SS17, Photo by Marijana Omazić Hrzić, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 53, www.kandit.hr. Open
Garderoba Archives 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. J­A
50 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket June - September 2017 51
Shopping
Spice Up
This Indian retail features a great selection of high-quality
merchandise of fresh spices, gourmet food, Indian tea
varieties, basmati rice, lentils, cosmetics and many other
grocery products through to personal care, apparel and
more. It’s a small store but packed with goodies for a taste
of curry in a hurry!QD‑3, Mrazovićeva 9, tel. (+385-1) 457
91 90, www.spiceup.eu. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -
15:00. Closed Sun.

More style for less cash
Britanski trg antique market
Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the antique
market is bursting with flair and excitement. Here you will
find various decorative things, old books and collectables
of both local and international origin. Located in the very
heart of the city, the market is a real cultural treat for all
fans of antiquity.QA‑2, Britanski trg.

Hrelić (Jakuševac) flea market
You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter brothers’
here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea market. Situated
on the outskirts of the city, it is jam packed with good-
Istra Square, Arena Centar Archives ies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes, to thousands of other
handy items. You name it, it’s sure to have it! Bargaining
Kredenca Gift Shop will be fun and do take the time to relish some of the au-
Bring home a small part of Croatia with authentic products thentic local food and meat dishes on offer! Get in early as
manufactured from all four corners of the country. This merchants leave by noon. The quickest way to get to the
cute store has something for everyone including liqueurs, Fair is to catch the bus number 295 at the Zapruđe Sta-
rakija (for tasting), olive oil, honey, jam, wines, natural cos- tion, this line is available on Wednesdays, Saturdays and
metics, jewellery, souvenirs, decorative objects made of Sundays. For more info visit: www.zet.hr.QK‑5, Sajmišna
ceramic and Murano glass and more. For non-EU residents cesta 8, Jakuševac.
tax-free shopping.QC‑1, Radićeva 13, tel. (+385-) 091
278 20 40/(+385-1) 562 65 79; (+385-) 091 544 72 94, Ulični Ormar
www.kredenca.com. Open 09:00 -22:00. A The English translation means ‘Street Wardrobe’ and this
treasure of a store holds second hand vintage and retro
Kuća pršuta, sira, vina i maslina clothes that have stood the test of time. It’s purely vintage
Pršut, panceta, pečenica. You name it, this place has it. with some outstanding items up for grabs. Situated in a
Most of the meat on display is cured by the owners. The small courtyard, only few minutes walking distance from
cheeses are all Croatian, and come from some of the most the main square, come and enjoy the atmosphere, music
notable names on the market: Gligora, Sabalić, Puđa, etc., and authenticity of each piece. QD‑2, Nikole Jurišića 16,
and you’ll also find a wide selection of olives, preserves, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 -
and spirits. Moet, Hennessy, and Croatian wines are 16:00. Closed Sun. July 17 - August 21 Open 12:00 - 19:00,
aplenty here.QD‑2, Vlaška 33, tel. (+385-) 095 854 20 38. Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. From 50kn. J­A­6
Open 09:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. J­A

Kuća zelenog čaja Quirky Stores
A teahouse selling dozens of aromatised black, green, Blossom & Bloom
white, herbal, fruit and rooibos teas.QB‑2, Ilica 14 (Pas‑ Inspired by an incompatible love for flowers, this is one flo-
sage Lovački rog), tel. (+385-1) 483 06 67, www. rist gallery that tailors entire bouquets and gift packages
kucazelenogcaja.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - according to your needs. They merge carefully picked and
16:00. Closed Sun. J­A only the finest roses with elegant design creations and
handmade boxes. From chocolates to champagne and
Natura Croatica macaroons, surprise a loved one with a memorable gift
A lovely little shop selling a specialist selection of rakije from Blossom. They deliver too!QB‑2, Gundulićeva 5,
and other Croatian delicacies.QC‑3, Petra Preradovića 8, tel. (+385-1) 467 85 08, www.blossom-bloom.hr. Open
tel. (+385-1) 485 50 76, www.naturacroatica.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. July 31 - Au‑
09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A gust 15 Closed. August 16 - 26 Open 10:00 - 15:00. J
52 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com
Shopping Shopping
Specialty Stores Croatian creations
Staccato - Porsche Design Franck - Coffee & Tea
A shop in two parts. As the official licence holders for As you will no doubt have noticed by now, coffee enjoys
Porsche Design goods in Croatia the rear half is dedicated something of a central position in the cultural life of Zagreb.
to all things *vroom vroom* so long as it’s leisure and Franck is overwhelmingly the market leader in Croatia. A
fashion related. You’re sure to pick up some branded items swift walk through the town will convince that these days
there to make those summer coastal drives a touch more this is entirely a product that has at least captured the mar-
classy. The front of the shop is home to sundry items which ket in Croatia if indeed it hasn’t captured the spirit. Fruit,
we might describe as stylish, trendy, and quirky (and all herbal and black teas are also processed in the Central Eu-
at once). In addition to Porsche Design, Staccato also car- ropean tradition.
ries Hugo Boss, Diplomat, and Graf von Faber-Castell, all
of which are ideal for giving that little extra something Licitarsko srce
to someone’s work or home office. Fountain pens, ball- These small cakes are traditionally made from honey dough
points, diaries, to name but a few.QB‑2, Masarykova 26, or gingerbread, although try eating one of those that you
Hysteria Jasmina i lutkice tel. (+385-1) 467 88 74, www.staccato.hr. Open 09:00 - find displayed in shop windows all over Zagreb and indiges-
MAKS studio has for years been the place where artists and A beautiful and unique collection of handmade dolls and 21:00. Closed Sun. J tion is the likely result rather than the happy love life that is
designers could come together to share their creations stuffed animals.QD‑3, Petrinjska 40, tel. (+385-) 098 actually the point. Shaped as a bright-red heart and deco-
and creative solutions. After collaborating together for so 79 57 73, www.jasminakosanovic.com/. Open 10:00 - Top rated with white framing lines, flowers and mirrors, licitar-
long, MAKS studio designer Saša Maksimiljanović, decided 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. If only a scratch ‘n’ sniff review were possible. In lieu of lay sko srce have long been offered as love tokens to the object
that the next logical step would be to open a store where language, perhaps some poetry or classical prose instead? of affection. These days they are adorned with imaginative
all their brands could come together in one place. The Kloto In business for 15 years in Croatia, and on Tomićeva for 4 slogans such as ‘Zagreb’ and lie in wait to reveal to you the
location now has an entire range of different brands, in- Accessorize with handmade designs inspired by Gothic, years now, Top is literally you’re go-to place for the very best love the locals have for the contents of your wallet.
cluding MAKS studio, bi.bi jewelry, Gorana Gulišija, Dinići Lolita and Pinup.QB‑2, Masarykova 14, tel. (+385-1) 487 in global perfume lines. Nearly everything here is exclusive
Đenka Ivanišević, Cabinet.K, Vrecha & Co., and collec- 26 59, www.udrugakloto.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat to Top, including JFK’s favourite perfume, Eight & Bob.QB‑2, Paprenjak
tions from Habiter Chic.QC‑2, Teslina 9 (In the yard), tel. 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Tomićeva 4 (near Funicular), tel. (+385-1) 798 09 69, www. Gingerbread city, this scrumptious cookie-like critter con-
(+385-) 098 58 60 74, www.maks.design/. Open 10:00 top.hr. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A sists of honey, walnuts and pepper in these parts. The con-
- 14:00, 16:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Prostor Manufakturne Slobode (PMS) flicting set of flavours is considered by locals to symbolize
An ideal place for all those who devour and appreciate the conflicted history of this region and its people. Qwww.
Staccato Porsche Design Archives hand-crafts and new age ideas.QC‑2, Tkalčićeva 61. Wine Shops paprenjak.hr.
Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sun Bornstein
11:00 - 15:00. A This is a boutique wine store in town and its run by a team
that will tell you the A-Z of the fine grape drop. Its owners Croatian street food &
Saša Šekoranja Gallery have reinvigorated this immaculate wine bar located just shop in heart of Zagreb
Famous flower sculptor has opened a floral gallery in above the Zagreb Cathedral, in a 19th century basement.
Dežmanova Street which will host works, exhibitions, Over 300 wines are available from small family owned
book promotions and more.QB‑2, Dežmanov prolaz 1, tel. wineries to the more prestige sorts.QC‑1, Kaptol 19, tel.
Try the best of Address:
Petrinjska 14
(+385-1) 484 70 70. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. (+385-1) 481 23 61, www.bornstein.hr. Open 09:00 - Croatian traditional • 3 min from Ban
Closed Sun. August Open by prior arrangement. N 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A delicacy in one bite Jelačić square
• 2 min from
Zrinjevac park
Stripovi na kvadrat
An abundance of comics from this part of Europe as well as GRILL TIME Working hours:
For accurate info
the best known English editions are hot off the press here. check our site!

Heaps of figurines, t-shirts, badges, toys, games, DVDs and Beefshop • traditional meat and cheese products
gifts are also available and their website is updated with This is a unique butcher shop. Everything can be pur- • pumpkin & olive oil
the latest releases.QC‑3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. (+385- chased in pre-portioned and vacuum-sealed pack- • liquors and spirits
1) 483 77 77, www.stripovi.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat ages. The concept began a few years ago at their first • chocolate
09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A location, where they were the first in Croatia to spe- • truffles
• honey
cialize only in premium-quality aged and fermented
• jams
beef. Now in a bigger and more luxurious space with
Souvenirs an expanded offer, there’s not a cut nor a variety of
• wine

G.E.A.Gallery beef that you can’t find there. Whether it’s Black Angus
If you can’t make it to the rest of Croatia, this place on your Rib eye from the USA, Austrian Simmental, or marbled
way to the Stone Gate offers you something handmade from Wagyu beef from Japan: they have it. Near the Maksi-
each part of the country. The staff are highly knowledgeable mir football stadium (only a 5-7 euro taxi ride form
about the products they sell, so you’ll bring home a story or the city centre).QK‑2, Hondlova 2, tel. (+385-) 095
two as well as a souvenir for which you can be sure it was 198 80 01, www.beefshop.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
invented and produced in Croatia.QC‑1, Radićeva 35, tel. Closed Sun. P­A­L­W www.facebook.com/heritagecroatianfood
(+385-) 091 554 38 91. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A
54 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket June - September 2017 55
Shopping Shopping

g
CITY CENTRE
p i n
Ulični OrmarQD-2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 Spice UpQD-3, Mrazovićeva 9, tel. (+385-1) 457 91

Sh o p
00, info@mrav-dizajn.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 90, spiceup.retail@gmail.com, www.spiceup.eu.
- 16:00. July 17 - Aug 21 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00

7
1 6

Take Me Home - Croatian Design ShopQB-2, To- G.E.A. GalleryQC-1, Radićeva 35, tel. (+385-1) 485
mićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, info@takemeho- 3
10 22, (+385-91) 554 3891, andrea.racki@gmail.
me.hr, www.takemehome.hr. Open 09:30 - 20:00, 2 com. Open 10:00 - 19:00.
Sat 10:00 - 15:00
5

1

6

4

2 7

Top - Niche PerfumeryQB-2, Tomićeva 4, tel. Stripovi2QC-3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. (+385-1) 483 CroataQC-2, Ilica 5 (Oktogon), tel. (+385-1) 645
(+385-1) 798 09 69, info@top.hr, www.top.hr. Open 77 77, prodaja@stripovi.hr, www.stripovi.hr. Open 70 50, www.croata.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat
11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00 08:00 - 15:00.

4

3 5

56 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket June - September 2017 57
Where To Stay Arrival & Getting Around
hotels increasingly important role in Croatian tourism and aim to
In Croatia hotels are graded two, three, four or five star. attract guests all year round.
Private apartments are the most widely available type
Hotels graded two star are usually managed by the own- of accommodation, especially on the islands. It seems that
ers, so the advantages include a friendly family atmo- every house on the Adriatic coast has rooms or apartments
sphere. The hotels are clean but basic and are equipped to let in the summer months. This is a way of life in Croatia,
very simply. Most two star hotels do not have their own and usually provides one of the main sources of income
restaurant but you can usually find good restaurants with for families.
reasonable prices nearby. The advantages of holidaying in apartments on the Croa-
tian coast include great value for money and direct contact
Three star hotels generally offer rather more spacious ac- with the owner. The choice of apartments on the Croatian
commodation with well-equipped rooms, but the hotel coast is diverse, ranging from low-priced rooms to luxury
services usually do not include a porter. Three star hotels apartments. It used to be common for owners of private
usually have mid-sized restaurants. The availability of room rooms to stand on the main highway that runs along the
service depends on the hotel. A car park, gym and swim- coast or at bus and train stations holding signs saying
Summer Afternoon, Photo by Valentina Bunić
ming pool are frequently provided. “Zimmer Frei” (“Vacant Room” in German, since the major-
ity of visitors at that time were German-speaking). Accom-
Four star hotels are usually large formal hotels with staffed modation advertised in this way is usually lower in quality Arriving By plane tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up
reception areas and porters. Four star hotels are usually lo- and is often illegal but the owner may be open to a little The opening of the new Franjo Tuđman Airport, located tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg
cated close to areas with shops, restaurants and other main haggling if the tourist is prepared for a little excitement! 17km out of town and with a capacity of hosting 5 million bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about
attractions. The level of service is significantly above aver- Stone villas are an increasingly popular choice for fami- passengers per year, recently occurred and is now one of the 50kn to get to the centre. Getting around Town: Zagreb
age, the rooms are tastefully furnished and the hotel usu- lies who have a little more money to spend, especially in most modern airports in Europe. is well connected with buses which are linked to all major
ally has a good restaurant. Room service is usually available Istria. When you reserve a villa like this it is important to Getting to Town: cities in Croatia. In addition, local lines run regularly between
for most of the day. Most often guests have use of a car find out how far you will be from the sea, if that is impor- Pleso prijevoz (www.plesoprijevoz.hr) runs a bus service Zagreb County and its surrounding area. Ticket prices in one
park, gym and one or more swimming pools. tant to you, because many such properties are located in from Franjo Tuđman Airport to the Zagreb Bus Station (au- direction within a radius of 50 kilometres from the countries
the hinterland, although they may have swimming pools. tobusni kolodvor), which leaves according to flight sched- capital range from 26-77kn.
Five star hotels offer the highest quality accommoda- Villas are often outside highly populated areas, so are an ules from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/
tion. Although most five star hotels are large, some are ideal choice if peace and quiet are important factors in person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor)
small independent hotels (i.e. not part of a chain) offering your choice. a taxi in front of the international arrivals. Due to the specific QE‑4, Avenija M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 060 31 33 33,
an elegant intimacy. Five star hotels have restaurants with location of the Airport, taxi rates can differ significantly. www.akz.hr.
carefully selected menus. Room service is usually available Those who love to be alone and completely unplug from
round the clock. Guests usually have a fitness centre and civilisation can also select Robinson Crusoe style ac- Franjo Tuđman International Airport
spa on offer and a parking service or garage. A receptionist commodation in remote bays or on small islands such as Zagreb (Zračna luka Franjo Tuđman Za- arriving By train
is also on duty 24 hours. Pašman, Drvenik or Dugi Otok. Accommodation like this greb) Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not very user-
Croatia also offers specialised wellness hotels which have may not even have a connection to mains water or elec- QRudolfa Fizira 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 22 22, www.zagreb- friendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into
opened to meet global demand for health and wellness tricity, using rainwater and solar power. It is the perfect airport.hr. the city. Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk
tourism. Most of the wellness and spa centres are located choice if you want to enjoy unspoilt nature and be right through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left
in Opatija, Dubrovnik and on Lošinj island. The island of by the sea. corner. A currency exchange is located in the international
Lošinj has a tradition of health tourism going back 125 arriving By bus ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office
years, with its roots in the Austro-Hungarian Empire when The ground floor of the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni (Tel. (+385-1) 378 25 83. Open 05:00 - 23:00) is located be-
the island’s beneficial climate and vegetation were first Hostels kolodvor) is home to a series of shops where anything from tween the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your
recognised. Hostels are meeting places offering individuality, variety, bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is
Heritage hotels are located in older buildings of cultural simplicity and a friendly atmosphere, all at a reasonable home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.
and historic significance. The hotel menu should be repre- price. Hostels were once ultra-basic but today they are Closed Sun) and chapel. Window N°3, the Information centre tourist information
sentative of local cuisine. modern, safe and fun places of a surprisingly high stan- (Open 00:00 - 24:00), usually is staffed by someone with at
Boutique hotels are luxurious smaller hotels with an inti- dard. As well as a multitude of campsites, apartments, least a minor command of English. Changing currency: Tourist Information Centre
mate atmosphere. They may be part of a larger chain, but resorts and hotels, the Croatian coast in recent times has ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Za-
they are unique in the way that they are decorated, each become home to fantastic unique hostels which contrib- office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića. greb Airport, next to the arrivals area, at the Main Bus
room often being different. Here the individual approach ute to making the country a brilliant place to stay. There is a currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - Station, at the Main Train Station and Lotrščak Tower.
is based on anticipating guests’ needs before they even Hostels in Croatia are inexpensive so it’s only to be expect- 21:30, Sun 07:00 - 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage: QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11, tel. (+385-) 0800
articulate them. These small, luxury hotels are becom- ed that the creature comforts are not the same as in other Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 06:00 - 22:00) 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, www.infozagreb.hr. Open
ing more popular in this region over the last few years as types of accommodation. They are popular with young located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 08:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.
guests become weary of the standard offering. people who are just passing through and who only need 5kn/hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you'll
a place to stay for a night or two, although anyone who be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase Zagreb County Tourist Board
needs cheaper accommodation can use hostels. Rooms in to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: QC‑3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65,
Private accommodation hostels usually have multiple beds and shared bathrooms, Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when www.tzzz.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
In Croatia there are more rooms available in private accom- but the level of comfort offered is becoming ever closer to your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left
modation than in hotels. Family-run hotels are taking on an that offered by hotels. and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a
58 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket June - September 2017 59
Arrival & Getting Around Arrival & Getting Around
right as you exit the tracks). Buy your tickets online via www. picture. The biggest bus stop is just south of C-4, Glavni
hzpp.hr/en or download for free their mobile application kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage. There Parking
HŽPP. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are available are 133 daily bus lines and 4 nightlines which link Zagreb, Street parking/SMS Parking
24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the Sesvete, Velika Gorica and Zaprešić. The largest and most There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs
tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15 - 25kn/per day. known tram and bus stations are positioned at Črnomerec, on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 6kn/h with a maxi-
Dubec, Glavni kolodvor, and Savski most. Tickets cost 10kn mum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is 3kn/h with
Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey for daily transport and 15kn for night rides (00:00 – 04:00), a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and zone 3 (green) is
your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main each is valid for 90 minutes, while daily tickets are 30kn. New 1.5kn/h. Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box
square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards to ticket offers, is the recent addition of a 4kn ticket valid which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display
Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis for short rides up to 30 minutes. Tickets are available from it on your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message
queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usu- the driver on buses, at kiosks or ZET stores. Children under your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown
ally go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around six ride free. Please validate your ticket once you board: an (including the international code if you’re using a foreign
30kn. invalidated ticket is as good as no ticket at all, and getting mobile (+385) 700101 (zone 1), 700102 (zone 2), 700103
caught without one is an embarrassing and costly experi- (zone 3). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a
Getting around Town: Railroads are connected with almost ence, with inspectors operating on a random schedule. For return text message from the appropriate authorities. As
all major cities in Croatia, train rides within and around the detailed schedules and route plans of ZET buses and trams, a timely service, you’ll receive a text message reminding
Zagreb area are faster and less expensive than other means simply visit www.zet.hr.Qtel. (+385-) 072 50 04 00, www. you to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to
of transport. There are also seasonal discounts and organised zet.hr. move your car. In case you don’t pay for your parking spot or
day trips where guests can see quite a lot in little time. You over-run your allotted time, you’ll be left a ticket valid for 24
can travel in a couchette and take your car or motorbike on a The Sljeme bus line hours from the moment the beady-eyed inspector spotted
train as well. Bike transport is charged 15kn inside the coun- The Sljeme line numbered 140 takes off from Mihaljevac your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 100, 60 or 20kn
try and 5 € for international transport.And for all you pet lov- stop and goes to the Tomislav’s dom stop, six times a day respectively according to the zone, and can be paid in any
ers, bring your very best friend along but do know that you throughout the week, and every hour on weekends be- post office.
must have a mandatory veterinary booklet, small dogs are tween 06:20 – 21:50.Qwww.zet.hr/userdocsimages/
free of charge if kept in your lap or in a basket: Larger dogs voznired/140.pdf.
must wear a muzzle and are charged at 50% of the standard Taxis
price for tickets. Eko taxi
Biking As soon as you reach Zagreb, download Eko Taxi’s free
Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) Why not swap that four-wheeler for a two-wheeler? In what and easy to use application which is available on IOS and
QC‑4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-1) 378 25 83, is becoming somewhat of a common trend, more and more Android Systems, and you can order a taxi without even
www.hzpp.hr. locals have thought wisely and have begun to choose the making a call. These are hybrid vehicles, the starting price
ecological route to town. Even though bike routes haven’t is 8.80kn, and every kilometre thereafter costs 6kn whilst
fully been mapped, roads are marked for cyclists with either the price for waiting is 43kn per hour. All luggage is free of
Public transport red paint or are separated from the main road by yellow and charge and the prices are the same for night rides, Sundays
Trams & Buses white lines. Markings are very visible and clear to both bike and public holidays.QVodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-) 14 14,
Getting around town is made all the much easier via the riders and car drivers. If you would like to rent a bike (daily www.ekotaxi.hr. A
city’s Tram and Bus Systems, both of which can take you rental will cost 100kn), visit any of the following www.za-
from A to Z. Tramwise, the city has 15 tram lines that run grebbybike.com, www.nextbike.hr, www.bike.com.hr. Radio taksi Zagreb
from 04:00 - 24:00; the night trams (4 lines) run from 24:00
- 04:00. In terms of buses, a list of departure times can be
For those seeking a recreational ride, then Maksimir, Bun-
dek and Jarun are the ideal locations. True cycling enthu-
Taxis should only charge a 10kn flat fee plus 6kn/km. These
prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends.
50% off on first ride
found at all bus stops marked by the blue signs with a bus siasts who wish to be challenged should know that the city
surroundings are filled with alternative bicycle routes that
There is no additional charge for luggage whilst the price for
waiting is 40kn per hour. You can find lines of them in front
ordered through app
range in various levels of degree as well as different types of of all major hotels, the train and bus stations and numerous
exchange office surface. For all other information and maps, visit the Zagreb other central locations.QD‑6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel.
Tourist Association and www.pedala.hr, www.mojbicikl. (+385-) 17 17, www.radio-taksi-zagreb.hr.
In Kapital hr.
In Kapital is a company that deals with financial affairs Taxi Cammeo
guaranteeing top quality services. They offer custom- These taxis do not park at the usual taxi stands but you can
ers a secure, convenient and fast service in purchas- Car rental stop them by raising your hand or by phoning 1212 and 060
ing and selling currencies. A chain of their exchange Rent-a-car offices are located at airports and within the city’s 71 00. The starting price is 6kn, and every kilometre there-
offices can be found around attractive locations large hotels (e.g., Sheraton, Panorama, Westin,...) or within after costs 6kn whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour.
throughout Zagreb.QC‑2, Gajeva ulica 1 (Dubrovnik their immediate vicinity. Prices per day for an economy or These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and
Hotel), tel. (+385-1) 481 15 55, www.inkapital.hr. Open compact car class ranges from 250 to 550 kn. In order to rent weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage.Qtel.
08:00 - 22:00. Also at C-1, Tkalčićeva 18, tel. (+385-1) 378 a four wheeled vehicle, you need to have a credit card and (+385-) 12 12/(+385-) 060 71 00, www.taxi-cammeo.hr.
99 00. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun be 18 years old (by law). If a problem occurs on the road, first A
09:00 - 21:00; C-2, Cvjetni Shopping Centre, Trg Petra call your rent-a-car contact number, then the HAK roadside
Preradovića 6 (floor -1), tel. (+385-1) 483 70 00. Open
09:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. J
assistance service at (+385) 1987. facebook.com/
zagrebinyourpocket
www.ekotaxi.hr
60 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket June - September 2017 61
Zagreb Basics Street register
29. X. 1918. C-1 Habdelićeva C-1 Lopašićeva E-2
Customs Toilets Aleksandrove stube B-1
Amruševa C-2
Harmica C-2
Hochmanova A-3
Ljudevita Gaja
Margaretska C-2
C-3
Andrije Hebranga B-3 Hrvojeva E-3 Marićev prolaz C-2
There are no custom limits between member states of the You ‘had to go' forty-five minutes ago...public toilets or WCs A. Heinza E-1 Ilica A-2 Markovićev trg B-1
Andrije Žaje A-3 Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1 Martićeva D-2
EU or tax return. For other non-member states we recom- (pronounced ‘vay-say') are few, as one in the Cesarčeva Antuna Bauera E-3 Ivana Kukuljevića A-2 Marulićev trg B-3
mend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr. Street near the main city square, which is free of charge and Arnoldova A-2 Ivekovićeve stube D-1 Masarykova B-2
Augusta Šenoe D-3 Jagićeva A-3 Matičina C-3
wheelchair-accessible. Your best bet is to find and use one A. Marina Držića E-4 Janka Draškovića D-3 Matoševa B-1
Bakačeva C-2 Jezuitski trg C-1 Mažuranićev trg B-3
inside the shopping malls and bigger stores or take a seat
Disabled travellers at a café, order yourself a beverage and then hustle through
Barčićeva E-2
Baruna Trenka C-3
Jukićeva A-3
Jurišićeva C-2
Medulićeva B-3
Mesnička B-2
Basaričekova C-1 Jurja Žerjavića B-3 Mihanovićeva B/C-4
Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take the appropriate door - gospoda or muški for men, dame Bednjanska B-4 Jurkovićeva E-1 Miklouševa C-1
Berislavićeva C-3 Kačićeva A-3 Mikulićeva E-1 Photo by Višnja Arambašić
shape and some improvements can be seen, but there or ženski for women. Biankinijeva E-2 Kamaufova E-2 Miramarska C-4
is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all car parks Bogovićeva C-2
Božidara Adžije A-3
Kamenita C-1
Kaptol C-1
Mletačka B-1
Mlinarske stube C-1 Rubetićeva D-1 Trg Maršala Tita B-3
have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least
one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres Visas Branjugova D-2
Brešćenskoga E-2
Britanski trg A-2
Kapucinske stube
Katančićeva C-3
Katarinin trg
B-1
C-1
Mrazovićeva D-3
Nikole Tesle
Novakova D-1
C-2
Ruđera Boškovića
Runjaninova B-4
D-3 Trg N. Šubića Zrinjskog C-3
Trg Petra Preradovića C-2
Šalata D-1 Trg Petra Petretića E-1
have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU mem- Brozova A-4
Buconjićeva A-2
Klaićeva A-3
Kneza Borne D-3
Opatička C-1
Opatovina C-1
Savska cesta A-4 Trg Svetog Marka C-1
Schlosserove stube D-2 Trnjanska cesta D-4
buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can ber states need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make Bulatova A-2 Kneza Branimira D-4 Palmotićeva D-3 Širolina E-3 Trpimirova D-4
Bulićeva E-2 Kneza Lj. Posavskog E-3 Pantovčak A-2 Skalinska C-1 Tuškanac B-1
expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your coun- Čačkovićeva E-1 Kneza Mislava D-3 Park Ribnjak D-1 Smičiklasova D-2 Tvrtkova E-3
most buildings. If you're planning to visit, we suggest you try of origin, before visiting Croatia. In addition, if you are Cesarčeva C-2
Čirilometodska C-1
Kneza Mutimira
Kneza Višeslava
D-3
E-3
Paromlinska C-4
Patačićkina D-2
Splavnica C-2 Unska B-4
Stančićeva E-3 Varšavska B-2
inquire about your destination in relation to these matters flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities through- Crnatkova A-4 Koranska B-4 Pavla Hatza D-3 Starčevićev trg C-4 Vinkovićeva C-1
Dalmatinska B-2 Kordunska A-2 Pavla Šubića E-3 Streljačka B-1 Visoka B-1
and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your out Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple Degenova C-1 Koturaška A-4 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Strojarska E-4 Vitezovićeva C-1
arrival as accessible as possible. entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Demetrova B-1 Kovačića Ante C-3 Perkovčeva B-3 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Vladimira Nazora A-1
Dežmanova B-2 Kozarčeva A-1 Petrinjska C-2 Strossmayerovo šet. B-2 Vlaška D-2
Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforemen- Domagojeva D-4 Kotarska C-1 Petrova E-1 Svačićev trg C-3 Voćarska cesta E-1
Đorđićeva D-2 Kralja Držislava D-3 Pierottijeva A-3 Švearova E-3 Voćarsko naselje E-1
tioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.
Electricity Dubravkin put
Dvoranski prečac
B-1
C-1
Kralja Zvonimira
Kraljice Jelene
E-2
E-3
Pod zidom
Posilovićeva E-1
C-2 Brezovačkoga B-1
Tkalčićeva C-1
Vodnikova B-4
Vojnovićeva E-2
Erdödyeva E-3 Kranjčevićeva A-4 Praška C-2 Tomašićeva E-2 Vončininova D-1
The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the
When things go wrong
Felbingerove stube C-1 Križanićeva D-3 Preobražanska C-2 Tomićeva B-2 Vramčeva D-1
Florijana Andrašeca A-4 Kršnjavoga A-3 Preradovićeva C-3 Tratinska A-4 Vranicanijeva B-1
United States will need to use a transformer to run electri- Frane Petrića C-2 Krutićeva E-3 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4 Vukotinovićeva B-3
cal appliances. Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zagreb signifi- Franje Račkog D-2 Krvavi most C-2 Primorska A-2 Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 Weberova C-1
Frankopanska B-3 Kumičićeva C-4 Radićeva C-1 Trg Biskupa J. Langa D-1 Zamenhoffova A-1
cantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should Froudeova B-1 Kurelčeva D-2 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Trg braće Hrv. Zmaja C-1
Golubovac B-1 Kuševićeva B-1 Radnički dol A-1 Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3
keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an
Water emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emer-
Grič B-2
Grgura Ninskog C-4
Laginjina E-2
Lepušićeva E-3
Ribnjak C-1
Rokov perivoj B-2
Trg žrtava fašizma D-3
Trg kralja P. Krešimira IV E-3
Gundulićeva B-3 Lisinskog B-1 Rokova A-2 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3
Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking. gency Number (+385) 112 which then transfers you to
police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city
money district, in case you were involved in an accident or were MREŽA TRAMVAJSKIH LINIJA / REGULAR TRAM SERVICES IZVOD IZ TARIFNIH ODREDBI ZA GRAD ZAGREB
Cijelo područje Grada Zagreba u prvoj tarifnoj zoni

arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In ZAGREBAČKI
HOLDING
DOLJE
PODRUŽNICA
IZVOD IZ CJENIKA
za prijevoz putnika i prtljage u javnom prijevozu putnika u Gradu Zagrebu
koji se primjenjuje od 1. veljče 2017. godine
15 33 N
There are plenty of exchange offices around Zagreb, as well as that case, contact your embassy. The main building for ER Gračani
ZAGREBAČKI ELEKTRIČNI TRAMVAJ

POJEDINAČNE PAPIRNATE I E-VRIJEDNOSNE KARTE
U DNEVNOM I NOĆNOM PROMETU

an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. is located in Heinzelova Street 88 (K-3) where everything 1533
Gračanski Mihaljevac

Gračanske stube
Služba komunikacija i marketinga
Podrška korisnicima 072 500 400
Vrsta karte
Jedna zona
Pojedinačna/e-vrijednosna (90 min)
dnevni promet
daily traffic
10,00 kn
noćni promet
night traffic
15,00 kn

Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, necessary will be done or you will be taken to the nearest MIHALJEVAC
15
14 8
www.zet.hr e-mail: javnost@zet.hr Pojedinačna/e-vrijednosna (30 min)* 4,00 kn* (od 01.02.2017.)
Pojedinačne karte vrijede za jedno putovanje u jednom smjeru tramvajem, autobusom i uspinjačom u
dnevnom i noćnom prometu.
Vrijednosne karte vrijede za neograničen broj putovanja tramvajem, autobusom i uspinjačom u jednoj

so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. hospital if need. In case of an accident call HAK road help JANDRIĆEVA Jandrićeva
Radićevo šetalište
zoni, neovisno o smjeru putovanja.
Valjanost karte na području prve tarifne zone je 90 minuta od trenutka poništavanja.
*Pojedinačna karta za 30 minuta u jednoj tarifnoj zoni po cijeni od 4 kune vrijedi za jedno putovanje
tramvajem, autobusom i uspinjačom, za dnevni promet u jednom smjeru u trajanju od 30 minuta

24/7 (+385) 1987.
Gupčeva zvijezda

G
TR
od trenutka poništavanja.

V
Belostenčeva *Vrijednosna karta za 30 minuta, u jednoj tarifnoj zoni po cijeni od 4 kune vrijedi za neograničeni

aš IKO

ac
broj putovanja tramvajem, autobusom i uspinjačom, za dnevni promet, neovisno o smjeru

a

Ra va
a

ov
Jo eva

čk
N

a

ra
an a

IV
in

ice

čk
putovanja u trajanju od 30 minuta od trenutka registracije.

ER
va

riž sk
lo
va
Grškovićeva

an

vo
a
in

a

e

a

ve
sk
Roads

nd
tro

čk
cin
AT

vn

nic
ko

sk

rd

ja
ko
DNEVNE I VIŠEDNEVNE KARTE

ne
Ho
KV

Bu

bij
Pe
Vo

u
M

ja

lja
A

ap

an

uli
Č
12

le
Lju
12 12

Po
JA

A
K

D
G
KAPTOL

Č
34 N Dnevna karta/Daily ticket 30,00 kn

a
34 34 34

IN
14 8 33

an

SP
4 4 4 4 3 dana/3 days 70,00 kn

đm

ka

U
11 11

a

rg
11 11 7 dana/7 days 150,00 kn

ns
in

Tu

Fr ki t
VLAŠKA

a
Trg bana 7

uh

pa
lič
7 7 15 dana/ 15 days 200,00 kn

sk

F.
5

da

ns
5

ko
iD

n
ULICA DUBRAVA
Josipa Jelačića

r.
DUBEC 30 dana/30 days 400,00 kn

ve

ita
an

gd

an
When behind the wheel drivers must always have their
KVATERNIKOV

et
MAKSIMIRSKA
DUBRAVA

Slo

Br
M
Sv

Tr
TRG 13 7 5 NAPOMENA: vrijede samo u 1. tarifnoj zoni
N 31 31 31

national holidays
6 6 6 1112 14 34 8 4 33 Draškovićeva Karta vrijedi za neograničen broj putovanja u prvoj zoni tramvajem, autobusom i uspinjačom
11 11 11 u dnevnom i noćnom prometu.

driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them. 2 2 1 HEINZELOVA Za putnike koji koriste pojedinačne i dnevne karte primjenjuje se jedinstveni tarifni sustav prema
TRAMVAJSKE LINIJE / TRAM ROUTES

ŠUBIĆEVA
ILICA ILICA 34 kojemu cjelokupno područje Grada Zagreba predstavlja prvu tarifnu zonu.
12 Tržnica Kvatrić
ČRNOMEREC RELJKOVIĆEVA 17 Trg hrvatskih
CIJENE MJESEČNIH KUPONA ( Zagreb)
21 velikana Dnevne linije / daily routes

ice eva
13

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt 14 ZET ZET+ HŽ


1 ZAPADNI KOLODVOR - BORONGAJ

va
RA

in a

Sv baš
Talovčeva 32

v
Frankopanska 13 7 5

Ha va
lo
a
opća 360,00 kn 400,00 kn

no
ČK

ev

ze

m
ko
2 ČRNOMEREC - SAVIŠĆE

DRAŠKOVIĆEVA
Trg žrtava

ka
32 17 1

O

bić
January 1 New Year’s Day
osnovnoškolska 90,00 kn 200,00 kn

ra

et
le
GA

š
He
TRG fašizma

Šu
Tu
FRANKOPANSKA
13 6 31 34

Šu
and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alco-
34 12 171314 32 3 LJUBLJANICA - SAVIŠĆE srednjoškolska 100,00 kn 200,00 kn
ZAPADNI 1 1 MAŽURANIĆA Klinika 1 1 1
100,00 kn 200,00 kn
Rooseveltov za 17 4 SAVSKI MOST - DUBEC studentska
KOLODVOR traum.
17 17
umirovljenička 100,00 kn 200,00 kn
trg ZA 9 9 9
5 PREČKO - DUBRAVA
January 6 Epiphany
NE VA
Zrinjevac 32 32 32 socijalna 100.00 kn 200,00 kn
hol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in Jagićeva 2

Adžijina
JU
KIĆ
EV
Vodnikova
34 8 4 33
. K LA
UL MIS

Sheraton
13 ULICA KRALJA ZVONIMIRA
BORONGAJ 6 ČRNOMEREC - SOPOT
7 SAVSKI MOST - DUBEC
Opći, osnovnoškolski, srednjoškolski i studentski kuponi vrijede od prvog do zadnjeg dana u mjesecu,
umirovljenički od 20. dana u tekućem do 19. dana u sljedećem mjesecu, a socijalni od 10. dana u
tekućem do 9. dana u sljedećem mjesecu.

urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ April 16 Easter 8
A
MIHALJEVAC - ZAPRUĐE

SAVSKA
9 13 7 5 CIJENE GODIŠNJIH KUPONA (Zagreb)
Branimirova Trg kralja

Bo ova
9 LJUBLJANICA - BORONGAJ

i
34

t k
tržnica

vr anič
Petra Krešimira IV ZET ZET+HŽ

nik
13
11 ČRNOMEREC - DUBEC

d
ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As
6 6

t
ki
4320,00 kn
April 17 Easter Monday
opća - jednokratno plaćanje 3132,00 kn

Vo
m ničk a
č

h v
4 8

trg va
a
12 LJUBLJANICA - DUBRAVA

Te liće
4800,00 kn

jsk
opća - obročno plaćanje 3480,00 kn

uz i
nje
31 31
a

ej
ha

da
lsk

2 2 osnovnoškolska (jednokratno pl.) 870,00 kn 2160,00 kn


13 ŽITNJAK - KVATERNIKOV TRG
Ne

Ba
Se

Tr
N 34 33 UL. KNEZA BRANIMIRA
2160,00 kn
they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.
34 1713 14 32 4 33 9 srednjoškolska (jednokratno pl.) 960,00 kn
14 MIHALJEVAC - ZAPRUĐE
May 1 International Workers’ Day 12
9
12
9
MIHANOVIĆEVA Glavni Branimirova
kolodvor
Autobusni
kolodvor 15 MIHALJEVAC - DOLJE
studentska (jednokratno pl.)
umirovljenička (jednokratno pl.)
960,00 kn
960,00 kn
2160,00 kn
2160,00 kn

AVENIJA M. DRŽIĆA
3 OZALJSKA
3
TRATINSKA
17 PREČKO - BORONGAJ Cijena godišnjeg kupona za učeničku, studentsku i
LJUBLJANICA Studentski umirovljeničku pretplatnu kartu ZET - HŽ, za obročno
June 15 Corpus Christi centar 2 31 8 6 7 5 Noćne linije/night routes plaćanje iznosi 2400,00 kn

SAVSKA
N 31 ČRNOMEREC - SAVSKI MOST

a
3 1713 14 32 4 33

čic ka
Fe ićg tice
ja na

Lis arsk

ka

nš s
nje va

a
re rad
Mjesečni i godišnji kuponi vrijede za neograničeni broj vožnji autobusom, tramvajem i

ale čiliš
Tipping

i

rs
N 32 PREČKO - BORONGAJ

an e
sk

Do zelo
m

He ička
p a

Iv Sv
uspinjačom u dnevnom i noćnom prometu na području Grada Zagreba. Godišnji kupon

ge

ja
bik

Oli ev
in
June 22 Anti-Fascist Resistance Day

Ra ska
ira
eu

ro
u
vrijedi 12 uzastopnih kalendarskih mjeseci.

in
žić

dn
N 33 DOLJE - SAVIŠĆE

Vr
Sv

Kr
M

St

Dr
5 Zajednički pretplatni kupon ZET+HŽ uključuje prijevoz vlakovima HŽ-a na području Grada Zagreba.
Zagrepčanka 13 13 N 34 LJUBLJANICA - DUBEC
3 3
Getaldićeva
June 25 Statehood Day ULICA GRADA VUKOVARA
33 33
2 KARTA ZA USPINJAČU
jednosmjerna vožnja 4,00 kn
Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about Učiteljski fakultet ULICA GRADA VUKOVARA
Čavićeva

ŽITNJAK
hitna vožnja 20,00 kn

tipping, but seeing how you're a visitor to the country and August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day 17 5 14 32 4 Prilikom svakog ulaska u svako vozilo putnici su dužni elektronske karte registrirati na uređajima

AVENIJA MARINA DRŽIĆA
13 za registraciju karata, prislanjanjem karte na uređaj koji je postavljen na svim ulazima.
Vjesnik Slavonska

A
SPIĆ
Elka Papirnate karte potrebno je poništiti na uređajima za registraciju i poništavanje karata postavljenih
Prisavlje 2 33 3

August 15 Feast of the Assumption
samo kod prednjih, a u novim tramvajima i kod zadnjih vrata.

A GO
ka

Folnegovićevo Munja
all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw
šk ins

Za vrijeme vožnje putnik je dužan imati valjanu voznu kartu.
a

naselje

GRAD
. R og

de ad

ad om

Veslačka Zagrebački
Pe dev

Ulazak u autobuse dozvoljen je samo na prva vrata.
Ho ci
M nsk

Ru var

e
a

ić”
.R .d
nja
ć

Kn ti

S a

transporti Ulazak u tramvaje dozvoljen je na sva vrata.
liš
a

a

ij
"S tud
n
tro
ve

October 8 Independence Day
rv

31 8 6 7
ed

UL.
ru

ag

Vozne karte ZET-a kupuju se: - u vozilima kod vozača tramvaja i autobusa i na uspinjači, u

a bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically
Sla

Ja

Sr
St

N 32 32 Borovje 2 33 prodavaonicama ZET-a, na kioscima TISKA, iNovina i ostalih ugovornih partnera.
32
SAVSKI 3 SAVIŠĆE
5 5 5 N
17 17 17 MOST SAVA Karte se u tramvajima, autobusima i na uspinjači mogu platiti isključivo gotovinom, a na ostalim

November 1 All Saints’ Day
prodajnim mjestima moguće je i jednokratno plaćanje karticama Zagrebačke banke, Privredne

round their bill up to the nearest whole number when they
HORVAĆANSKA 14 4 Početno - krajnje stajalište
PREČKO 7 7 banke Zagreb i Erste banke.
31 31 N Stajalište u oba smjera Za kupnju godišnjih kupona moguće je i obročno plaćanje na 2-12 rata ovisno o kartici i banci.
JARUN Stajalište u smjeru vožnje Za kupnju općeg godišnjeg kupona plaćenog u gotovini i jednokratno plaćanje karticama poslovnih
Most banaka ostvaruje se popust od 10%.

want to tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staff's efforts seems December 25 Christmas
BUNDEK
mladosti Noćne linije / night routes
Autobusni terminal / BUS terminal
VOŽNJA BEZ KARTE NAJSKUPLJA VOŽNJA
Sukladno Odluci o prijevozu putnika u javnom prometu (Sl. glasnik grada Zagreba 20/13, 25/13, 2/17)
8 Uspinjača / Funicular
like a classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn't it?
za počinjeni prekršaj propisana je novčana kazna u iznosu od 500,00 do 800,00 kuna.

December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day
AVENIJA DUBROVNIK 6 6
SAVA Arena 31
7
31
7
ZAPRUĐE Ovdje sam / I am here a) Kazna za prekršaj može biti manja ako putnik plati polovicu propisanog minimuma kazne
Zagreb u iznosu od 250,00 kuna temeljem Obavijesti putniku izdane od strane kontrolora ZET-a ili
14 14 14 Potvrde o prekršaju koju izdaje Komunalno redarstvo. U tom slučaju ne vodi se prekršajni
26. travnja 2017. postupak.
os e
ko

e
m
i

a
tn en
ga vsk

išć

rin
OT
S ti
ja
ns

b) U slučaju neplaćanja navedenog iznosa Komunalno redarstvo, kao ovlašteno tijelo, izdaje
umuvr zej
je em

ed
sa
Sa

Ut
Tr

Obavezni prekršajni nalog s uvećanom novčanom kaznom i troškovima postupka.
s u

OP
le

Sr
M
j

Ve

c) U slučaju neplaćanja iznosa utvrđenog Obaveznim prekršajnim nalogom po pravomoćnosti
i izvršnosti naloga, ovlašteno tijelo daje nalog za ovrhu.
LINIJE 1, 3 I 8 NE PROMETUJU SUBOTOM, NEDJELJOM I BLAGDANOM **
62 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com
U vozila ZET-a nije dopušteno ući s biciklom zbog sigurnosnih razloga.
ROUTES 1, 3 AND 8 DO NOT OPERATE ON SATURDAY, SUNDAY OR PUBLIC HOLIDAYS U vozilima ZET-a dopušten je prijevoz kućnih ljubimaca pod posebnim uvjetima.

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