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contents photo CHITO YOSHIDA 6 8 10 MASTHEAD CONTRIBUTORS + LETTERS EDITOR’S LETTER 54 58 74 82 94 photo MARC BAPTISTE MAIN INTRO SHE’S COME UNDONE ROUNDTABLE ON BEAUTY TRANSCULTURAL BEAUTY CASTING CALL TOKYO UNDRESSED CODE 14 18 22 26 32 44 MODEL BEHAVIOUR JESSI BEAUTIFUL ART ETERNAL VANESSA BEECROFT SCREENTEST HOLLYWOOD BODIES INSIDER 24 HOURS IN NYC BEAUTY FASHION DAVID LYNCH & CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN’S FETISH CITISCAPE 104 NEW YORK The city that never sleeps bares it all OUTRO 126 STOCKIST LUCKY SEVEN ALEK WEK 128 ISSUE No. 6 T RACE T RACE 7 .
November 25. STEVE MASCATELLO SpECIAL CoNtRIBUtING EDItoR_RZA ART CREAtIVE DIRECtoR_KATIE CONSTANS DESIGNERS_CRAYON LEE. the U. ASHLEY HENRY. Program eligibility Applicants to the HIA core programs must be matriculated sophomores.humanityinaction. KASAI RICHARDSON. HUMANITY IN ACTION SHE’S COME UNDONE photoGRAphY MARC BAPTISTE FAShIoN AMBER GORDON hAIR RODNEY GROVES @ JUDY CASEY MAKEUp JENERIO @ JUDY CASEY MoDELS MELIDA @ NEW YoRK MoDELS.August 15.ORG DEADLINE FOR APPLICATION IS FEBRUARY 7. NY 10012 tEL 212 625 1192 FAx 212 625 1195 INFo@tRACE212. Internship opportunities include the International Criminal Tribunal for the former Yugoslavia. evidence of leadership potential.S. BERLIN. ALL RIGhtS RESERVED. INC. ALL CoNtRIBUtoRS oF UNSoLICItED MAtERIAL MUSt MAKE ARRANGEMENtS FoRF thEIR CoLLECtIoN AND REtURN. housing and meals associated with the programs. The core program culminates in individual research projects addressing prescient human rights issues in the host countries. RIKKI KASSO. 2008 Berlin Internship: August 23 . NEW YoRK. CHRIS CLINTON. ERIC TRAORE. SEAN MURPHY. four-year colleges or universities in the United States. APPLY HUMANITYINACTION. 2008 Fellows in the American program will explore how Americans understand.July 8. 2008 San Francisco Internship: August 21 . Prestigious international internships are available to those who successfully complete the American or European program. and to foster a growing international community bound together by these commitments. PARIS & WARSAW Core Program: June 3 . HIA pays for travel. to encourage American and European students to become leaders in these fields. inclusive and participatory society • Contemporary debates over race. Please visit www.org for complete details. DAVID LYNCH. 2008 The European programs focus on three interrelated areas of historic and contemporary importance: • Current human rights and minority issues in the host countries • The development of international human rights institutions and doctrines in the aftermath of World War II and the Holocaust • Examples of resistance to the Holocaust tRACE hEADQUARtERS 41 GREAt JoNES StREEt 3RD FLooR. ALEX STEED. Topics include: • The legal. No pARt oF thIS pUBLICAtIoN MAY BE REpRoDUCED IN WhoLE oR IN pARt WIthoUt thE WRIttEN pERMISSIoN oF thE pUBLIShER. ANDY LI. ALthoUGh tRACE MAGAZINE IS ALWAYS oN thE hUNt FoR DopE MANUSCRIptS. SHERESE SHORTER pUBLIShER UK_BEN MARTIN opERAtIoNS MANAGER UK_LANA DE MEILLON MALARD UK INtERNS_MARQUITA HARRIS. SAMMY JO @ MC2. ARtWoRK AND photoGRAphY.CoM ADVERtISING INQUIRIES: ADVERtISING@tRACE212. DOMINIQUE @ ELItE. SELMA JAKOBSSEN UK EDITORIAL UK EDItoR_PARDEEP SALL pRINt AND pRoDUCtIoN MANAGER_MARC BOLTON FAShIoN EDItoR_DAVINA MASHRU EDItoRIAL AND FAShIoN ASSIStANt_MELISSA SIMPEMBA ARt ASSIStANt_SIMON AUCKLAND CoNtRIBUtING WRItERS_RIKKI KASSO CoNtRIBUtING photoGRAphERS_MARC BAPTISTE. TIAH ECHHARDT@ELItE.CoM poStMAStER: SEND ADDRESS ChANGES to: SUBSCRIptIoN@tRACE212.CoM tRACE UK 105-107 FARRINGDoN RoAD LoNDoN. SAMANTHA ETANE.CoM SUBSCRIptIoNS: 212. Fellows will be selected on the basis of academic achievement. DAPHNE DAVALIÉ.CoM WWW.tRACE212. SARAH WHITE StAFF WRItERS_DEVIN “PAN” BARRETT. interest in minority issues and demonstrated commitment to human rights. NIKKO LENCEK-INAGAKI. oR INJURY to UNSoLICItED CoNtRIBUtIoN. juniors. To ensure participation of all qualified students.625. immigration. LIU DAN @ MC2.CoM WWW. the European Parliament and many more.1192 SUBSCRIptIoN@tRACE212. NUTE NICHOLSON. practice and manage diversity. cultural. all shoes_puma all soccer socks_adidas CoNtRIBUtING StYLIStS_AMBER GORDON MANAGING DIRECtoR_ANDREW MCANGUS ADVERtISING DIRECtoR_RAIHN SIBBLIES ADVERtISING REpRESENtAtIVE_JEFF SUAREZ MARKEtING CooRDINAtoR_SIGOURNEY SALLEY MARKEtING INtERNS_SYREETA LOCKETT. NYIJIA JONES. DALIA DAVIES.masthead #80 ChAIRMAN & EDItoR-IN-ChIEF_CLAUDE GRUNITZKY EDITORIAL MANAGING EDItoR_STEVEN PSYLLOS FEAtURES EDItoR_YOLANDA SANGWENI INtERNAtIoNAL EDItoR_ANICÉE GADDIS ASSIStANt EDItoR_SELENA RICKS EDItoR At LARGE_STEPHEN GRECO WEB EDItoR_LAURA MARCUS EDItoRIAL INtERNS_CAROLYN BRENNAN. or recent graduates (May 2006 or later) at accredited. ItS StAFF oR pUBLIShER. 2008 8 T RACE .CoM WRItE to tRACE!!! SEND LEttERS to EDItoRIAL@tRACE212. House of Representatives. EC1R 3BU tEL +44 207 0207 0149549 FAx +44 207 168 5727 INFo@tRACE44. seniors. ANDY LI FASHION FAShIoN DIRECtoR_CHRISTINE DE LASSUS FAShIoN MARKEt EDItoR_ROBYN V. MICHAELA NESSIM WEBMAStER_ANDY LI LEARN COLLABORATE LEAD INTERNATIONAL FELLOWSHIPS IN HUMAN RIGHTS THE HIA AMERICAN PROGRAM NEW YORK CITY Core Program: July 11 .October 17. The goal is to reinforce the HIA Fellows’ commitment to democratic values and human rights.CoM ©2007 TraCe magazine tRACE MAGAZINE (ISSN 1366-1752) IS pUBLIShED tEN tIMES A YEAR BY tRACE. tRACE MAGAZINE IS A REGIStERED tRADEMARK. ERNESTO GONZALEZ. DAMAGE. religion and the role of public and private sectors in addressing social problems THE HIA EUROPEAN PROGRAMS AMSTERDAM. thE VIEWS ExpRESSED IN thE MAGAZINE ARE thoSE oF RESpECtIVE CoNtRIBUtoRS AND ARE Not NECESSARILY ShARED BY thE MAGAZINE. COPENHAGEN.tRACE44. economic. FERNANDES FAShIoN INtERNS_KIRA ALVAREZ. tRACE MAGAZINE IS Not RESpoNSIBLE FoR LoSS. religious and political resources available to those who advocate a more tolerant. MIKAEL VOJINOVIC programs are designed to promote and facilitate an ongoing transAtlantic dialogue about the challenges that democratic societies encounter as they experience new degrees and forms of diversity.
Segal. not quite sober.. and somehow there was lots of cash in my purse. needing the sun to recharge his battery.. KaTie COnSTanS Katie was born in Mexico City. My Most Beautiful Experience? “Beautiful experiences happen every day. much less Africans. She lives in Ft. reading my favorite book Between Calm & passion by Kaori Ekuni for the ninth time. she set her sights on trace and is now part of the design team.” anDy Li Andy was born in hong Kong. she ended her long unpaid journey to become Web Editor in May 2007. Andy dreams of someday becoming a leading figure in the creative field.” SeLena riCKS Selena was born and raised in Maine where she was a newspaper reporter for five years covering everything from politics to music and youth culture. Korea.there are too many to describe. Mo. After serving in that position for more than five years. After graduating from pratt in May. Europe and Australia. run. and has lived in New York City since the age of six. My Most Beautiful Experience? “the transcendental experience of love is always the most beautiful experience and the most devastating. Working as the creative director for Korean fashion label “Kiok”. Raised partially in the Eastern Cape region of South Africa and harlem. My Most Beautiful Experience? “When people are having a good time looking at my work.. Also. After graduating. so all is right in the world. where he studied under world-renowned designers like Lance Wyman. Jonathan Wajskol. My Most Beautiful Experience? “I was at the beach around 4pm. learning to love myself. so she would create her scripts about a wealthy African ambassador’s daughter who moved into Beverly hills and caused a ruckus. Terrace. Anicee is currently the International Editor of tRACE. She never saw any black people. Alvin Grosman and Leslie A.” CrayOn Lee Crayon came to the U. while continuing to contribute fabulous photography to the magazine. and at the same time. she also began working with tRACE in January of 2007. Greene with two roommates and her adorable cat. where her family was exiled in the 80s. My Most Beautiful Experience? “Falling in love. Andy now works as part of the design team at tRACE. making her a true transculturalist. NYC in 2003. My Most Beautiful Experience? “Cuddling in bed. other than writing she likes to paint. Canada.” yOLanDa SangWeni Yolanda worked for several South African magazines before setting her sights back on Brooklyn. She spent 10 years traveling as an international model all over Asia.” 10 T RACE T RACE 11 . Either way. she made her way to New York City and has been here ever since. to heeb. Interning everyone from Spin. this is where fate met destiny and tRACE asked her to come to New York to “help out at the magazine” She is now creative director of the magazine and is living her dream. My Most Beautiful Experience? “I find beauty in the moments when the mind is free to create new plots.contributors Laura marCuS Laura was born and raised in Montreal. his passion and eye for graphic design won him many awards during his years at parsons School of Design. Martin Solomon.” aniCÉe gaDDiS Anicée joined tRACE as its Executive Editor in 2001. she moved on to help found the new sister publication. She moved to NYC three years ago.” STeVen PSyLLOS Steven is a NYC native who walks the streets very confused during these long winter months. my lady has this one speck of brown in her ocean blue eyes which is like my very own continent. Steven finds warmth on the canvas and in the ink he lays. working with top photographers creating amazing images for French magazines. NY. Mexico and now lives in Brooklyn. New York. and focuses on documenting citiscapes ranging from Buenos Aires to New Delhi to Copenhagen. in 2001 from Seoul. her next and totally opposite inspiration for wanting to write was reading Beloved by toni Morrison.S.” My Most Beautiful Experience? “Seeing my name in print for the first time. perhaps he’s like Superman. she first started putting pen to paper after endless hours spent watching Beverly Hills 90210. with my one-year-old son trying to wrap his little arms around me. to tRACE. do yoga and go to concerts. leaving her beloved city for a Midwestern education in 2001. A dedicated world traveler. and has been at tRACE for two years.. perhaps it is the Mediterranean in his Greek blood. A few years ago she decided to settle in paris and work as a fashion stylist pursuing her passion. on the show.
Now that we’ve accepted that this magazine needs to be what it should be, and what it’s always been (in its best moments), we no longer chase after the latest celebrity rapper, or the creator of the latest hit single, or the lead actress in the latest blockbuster, because, after all, tRACE is tRACE and US Weekly is US Weekly and Cosmo is Cosmo. there comes a time when an intuitive editor needs to accept the simple truth that thinking – and acting – differently from the competition is actually a strength and not a weakness. Still, we are not fools. We know – and accept – that in this new digital age, magazines (in order to survive as print publications) need to be crafted into distinct objects of desire. So when we started brainstorming around the concept behind the first issue of the new year (our “true Beauty” edition), we agreed that all the talent featured should be naked, in the literal – and metaphorical – sense of the word. When, at one of our editorial meetings last year, our assistant editor Selena Ricks distributed issue plans that featured the word “Undraped” as a main rallying point, we went ahead with the concept of nudity and never looked back. Someone suggested that we call Marc Baptiste, the haitian-American lensman (and longtime tRACE contributor) who has published (for the book publisher Rizzoli) three acclaimed tomes dedicated to the beauty of the feminine form. In all honesty, Marc loves dangerous curves, and we thought our readers would too. For the cover shot and main portfolio, Marc cast a wild, transcultural bunch of lovely ladies from four continents who, in his mind, represent true beauty in its purest form. the difficult part was editing the most risqué photos into a publishable set of pages that would make it past our advertisers desks. We decided to be true to ourselves, and allow a few (too many?) nipples into the issue. Come what may, tRACE is tRACE and we will gladly suffer the consequences. please judge for yourself. As the great Danish philosopher Kierkegaard once wrote, “Face the facts of being what you are, for that is what changes what you are.” - CLAUDE GRUNITZKY Contestants arriving at 41 Great Jones Street. photography_JENNY BAPTISTE
CoRRECtIoNS: In the “Screentest” feature on actress Melody Khazae in the Music Uncommon issue (#79), it was incorrectly stated that the director of the movie Crossing over is Wayne Katz. the director’s name is Wayne Kramer. We regret the error. We neglected to credit stylist Nathalie Saphier for her work on our cover story on singer Lily Allen (Styles Ahead, #77). We regret the error.
FAShIoN poLICE #79: the Code Mode story page 30 to page 37 in the Music Uncommon issue (#79) was photographed by Muriel Vega, fashion and casting by Flora Zoutu. We apologize for the omission.
Australia > Austria > Bahamas > Brazil > Canada > Denmark > France > Germany > Greece > Hong Kong > Ireland > Italy > Japan > Lebanon > Luxembourg > Mauritius > Mexico > Netherlands > New Zealand > Norway > Pakistan > Philippines > Poland > Portugal > Puerto Rico > Singapore > South Africa > Spain > Sweden > Switzerland > United States > United Kingdom > Venezuela
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AGENCY: Code Models STATS: 5’9” 34-24-34 Where were you born? Lyon, France Where do you live now? New York What’s your nickname? Frenchy How would you describe your look? Funky chic What’s playing on your iPod right now? Robin thicke Were you popular in high school? Nope, and I didn’t care! Who is your dream boyfriend? My boyfriend, Mike What do you do when you get dumped? that hasn’t happened, yet What are you doing tonight? Candles, dim light and a great book What last made you cry? Last week I smacked my baby toe on a chair.
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If your house was burning down. living or dead? Kunta Kinte.com SpECIAL thANKS to Splashlight T RACE 19 . I would die without it! all t-shirts_original Music Shirt www.mikaelvojinovic. what’s the first thing you would grab? My passport and credit card What three people would you like to meet. and dawn is my night Cocktail or cappuccino? Red wine Favorite city? New York for the fun. Edith piaf. hong Kong for the shopping and paris with my boyfriend What’s always in your purse? My cellphone. haile Selassie What’s your ringtone right now? Some random Cingular tone Sneakers or stilettos? Sneakers forever Early bird or night owl? Night is my dawn.
20 T RACE FuLL-bLOWn bLOOm Your body is a wonderland text_SELENA RICKS photography_CHITO YOSHIDA beautiful .
Brooklyn-by-way-of-tokyo photographer Chito Yoshida sought to implement a dose of sarcasm in her portrayal of women and flowers on these pages. creating an atmosphere which you can almost smell and touch. musicals and the chaotic energy and colors of Coney Island.I nspired by neon lights. Chito says the project reflects “plastic superficial beauty. Using flower paintings by Saori Kanda. early ‘20s cabaret.” 22 T RACE . which forms a thin layer over a pool of mud.” What is beautiful? “Beauty for me is the structure and movement of the body.
paris France. broadening from a reflection of one self to a reflection of the world around her. her first performance displayed her Book of Food – an obsessive diary of everything she ate for a decade – along with 30 models coping with eating disorders floating around the gallery. the performance begins with models standing frozen in position within the site—which has ranged from the Guggenheim in New York City to the palazzo Ducale in Genoa. the overall composition. fashion trends and other cultural signifiers. the combined “army.art eternal Vanessa Beecroft. LVMh. Courtesy of artist. her work is an experience. Genoa. Italy. As of late. Vanessa describes her models as individual aspects of her psyche. combining theater and sculpture. the juxtaposition of the natural body against the architecture. Vanessa Beecroft.” a snapshot of her mind frame at that moment. the subject matter is a small (or large) cluster of nudes whose combined aura fills the space and the spectators in attendance. places the female form on display yet turns the focus on the viewer’s reaction. palazzo Ducale. the shock of “nakedness” disappears. 2005. the audience finds its place. it seems Vanessa’s work has shifted from self-image to cultural image. the sexuality subsides. then. It is no secret that the artist herself suffered from eating disorders. For the opening of the Venice Biennial 2007. VB 56. her installations over the past 13 years have included Amazonian alpha-females and “normal” everyday women. 2001. Vanessa Beecroft. and it is so beautiful. the lines of the forms. VB 48. and one starts to notice the subtle movements. Italy. As her work evolves. the living painting. she presented a work dedicated to Darfur titled VB61 that was horrifically mesmerizing. Courtesy of artist. one can find the blueprint of a society’s beauty ritual. emPerOr’S neW CLOTHeS artist Vanessa beecroft’s arresting performances find meaning in our reactions to the naked body text_STEVEN PSYLLOS photography_COURTESY OF THE ARTIST o ne of the most influential artists working today. their eyes examining the nudes. In the female nude. silently expressing where the plot is heading. almost like ice melting. we witness the artist’s struggles and experiences placed before us like a Greek chorus. 24 T RACE T RACE 25 .
thE MUSEUM IS AN INtELLECtUALLY SAFE ENVIRoNMENt. IGNoRE pEopLE Who LooK At YoU too MUCh. Do Not WhISpER. Do Not BREAK thE RULES. in a cattle camp during a wedding dance. Do Not LAUGh. they aim to represent women in general but their specifics follow my story line. VB 48. BE REMotE. BE pLAIN. solitude amongst a crowd. BE tALL At thE BEGINNING. When was the last time you were overwhelmed by seeing or experiencing something so beautiful? In South Sudan. Do Not MAKE thEAtRICAL MoVEMENtS. thE NUDItY IS LIKE A UNIFoRM. South Sudan. It happens when I experience cultures and environments that still have an identity and are permeated with culture and usually belong to what is defined as the “third world. Genoa. Italy. thE NUDItY IS Not SUppoSED to ARoUSE thE AUDIENCE. the opposite of a lie. YoUR IMAGE IS pARt oF AN ARt WoRK. BE CLASSIC. I see the voyeur and the exhibitionist.Vanessa Beecroft. in general. BE SILENt. toWARDS thE MIDDLE RELAx AND BE MoRE NAtURAL. What comes to mind when you think of the nude form? It truly depends on what body. BE QUIEt. What is beauty? truth. Nudity is classical and pure and naked and rough. What themes do you explore with your female installations? I see issues with identity. BE LIKE A pICtURE. 2001. BE NAtURAL. BEhAVE AS IF No oNE IS IN thE RooM. whatever that means. thE NUDItY IS Not MEANt to MAKE YoU FEEL VULNERABLE. I see a return to the essence. BE StRoNG. there is drama but there is also a distance from it. concepts of beauty. vulnerability. ACt NAtURALLY WIthIN thE GIVEN RULES.. “nudity is classical and pure and naked and rough. What was the most revealing reaction you’ve heard about an installation? one of vulgarity. this disturbs me and has motivated many of my past performances.” What are some of your instructions to the models before a performance? Do you ask them to meditate on something specific? Do Not SpEAK. I see sexuality. there is drama but there is also a distance from it. Your work is very much about the reaction of the audience to the installations.” How do you describe your work? I display women in the place of an art object in a space that is an art institution or museum. the women follow a set of rules of behavior of which the most important is not to speak. shame. ANY MoVEMENt DEtERMINES thE IMAGE. BE UNAppRoAChABLE. abuse. Do Not MAKE MoVEMENtS thAt ARE too SLoW. where women are seen as sexual objects. YoU ARE LIKE A IMAGE. I see humor. but the first words that come to my mind are beauty. T RACE 27 . BE DEtAChED. ACt WIthIN thE RULES UNtIL thE END oF thE pERFoRMANCE. there is loneliness but at the same time the multiplication of it in a compact group… What do you look for in your models/subjects? Something I can identify with and something I cannot understand at all. palazzo Ducale. Courtesy of artist. Actually. Do Not MAKE MoVEMENtS thAt ARE too FASt.. I came to the realization that the performances follow an autobiographical path.
She hand-picks her models based on a few important credentials such as great skin and a healthy physique. the triumphant threesome we found are part of a less-glittery but equally vital part of hollywood – they grace the silver screen and the pages of your fave mags and billboards with little recognition.. a UCLA professor and an olympian. But what if your “money maker” could double for the oscar winner’s instead? For this month’s TRUE BEAUTY issue we decided to take a deeper look at those young hopefuls who might fall through the cracks. And her models aren’t stereotypical Valley Girls – her roster includes an astronaut.screentest aLmOST FamOuS not all of tinseltown’s actresses have to put their best face forward – some are rewarded for their beautiful extremities text_LAURA MARCUS photography_SEAN MURPHY F or the thousands of sprightly hopefuls who make their way to hollywood.” she says. we came across LA’s Body parts Models Inc. owned by Linda teglovic. once a model herself. print work turned into body doubling for the likes of Rene Russo. Brains. As body doubles and parts models. but most important is “a great attitude and the ability to be both professional and dependable. Linda fell into the profession by accident. Kim Bassinger and Gina Davis. Searching for our subjects. the prospect of becoming the next Charlize theron is the stuff dreams are made of. brawn and beauty – they’ve got it all! 28 T RACE .
I’m just glad that teachers and doctors aren’t selected based on these criteria. I was sent into an audition for a Japanese company called Lux Spa to double for Charlize theron. body scrubs. What’s your favorite feature? I think the part I get complimented on the most are my legs. preparing for a scene usually requires a lot of waxing. butt. I am and always have been an athlete. How do you feel about the fact that you are making a career from your physical beauty? As far as making a living modeling. like every other woman on the planet. aDeLe uDDO What do you double? I primarily do hands. You try to keep your body in shape all the time. I don’t have anything insured. I am more of a full body double. then maybe it would be something to consider. Manicures. Some days it goes your way. there are days when I wake up feeling fat. I moisturize rather obsessively. How do you prepare your body part for a scene? Well. so I guess I would say legs. however. there are always opportunities for networking and making contacts for future work. I feel the most comfortable and confident when I am strong and active. I am also an actress. back. How do you feel about the fact that you are making a career from your physical beauty? I work hard. I’m balanced. I do not have insurance. It’s a job. I feel like you never know what can come out of any job. How did you get into body doubling? I actually got into parts modeling accidentally. And I thought to myself. You just roll with the punches and try not to pay too much attention to that aspect of the industry. 30 T RACE . I show up. I play beach volleyball two to three times a week as well as do pilates a few days a week.” Are you secretive about your roles? I don’t really do body doubling so I’m not secretive about my roles. Soon after I moved to LA. How did you get into body doubling? My grandmother on my mom’s side always told me I should be a “hand model” before I knew what that meant. I went on a casting for opI [nail polish] and booked a big campaign. Do you have insurance on your most prized body part? No. [on] the last shoot there was a girl who was a hand model and she referred me to her parts agent. I booked the job because apparently I was a good match for Charlize’s body type. lets face it. nor have I seen the Seinfeld episode about hand models – two questions I get asked all of the time. sometimes it doesn’t. pedicures. so if parts were my entire livelihood. so they ended up using me for three more commercials. It’s a bit hard when my “part” is my entire body. I have done legs. “Maybe mawmee’s onto something!” How are you so comfortable in your skin? I suppose I’m ultimately comfortable in my skin because I grew up on a commune in Northern California. Do you have insurance on your most prized body part? No. so the rest is up keep. with a bunch of naked hippies – my mom taught me that “a body is just a body. which became my current agency.KaTrina neLSOn What do you double? I double hands and feet quite a bit. however. Are you secretive about your roles? Not really. arms – you name it. Just polished and put together. Why are you so comfortable in your skin? Well. What’s your favorite feature? I suppose my favorite feature would probably be my hands – go figure. waxing. I believe that as long as I care for and tend to my internal self as well. How do you prepare your body part for a scene? As far as “preparing” my hands.
legs. that is an unwritten rule. that someone was the mother of one of my agency’s models. and best of all. How are you so comfortable in your skin? I was raised by my grandparents and my dad. I don’t need to impress any guy (they usually are impressed anyway). Do you have insurance on your most prized body part? What do you think? Does J-Lo? How do you feel about the fact that you are making a career from your physical beauty? I am so blessed. Reading your script and communicating with the director is a given. I’m happy to be me and very thankful. How do you prepare your body part for a scene? As an actress this is the most technical you ever go. 32 T RACE T RACE 33 .” Are you secretive about your roles? Yes. What’s your favorite feature? My face. butt.SHaWn riCHarDz What do you double? Everything from hands to feet and everything in between. How did you get into body doubling? I was shopping in a store. I don’t have “daddy issues. but can I say my hair. I understand the male species better than most. and I’m close with my uncles and male cousins. and so proud that I. as an actress/ model can earn a fabulous living doing what I do and how I do it. Scratch your head on that one. and my entire body too? I must say I have no favorite feature. and someone saw my legs as I was trying on some clothes.
What’s your caffeine fix of choice? I don’t like caffeine. It all depends on my son. etc.insider PeOPLe 24-HOur beauTy. New York City Singer-songwriter What time do you usually wake up? Usually early because of my two-yearold son. etc.) It’s all natural and very cheap. How do you beat morning stress? I just keep telling myself: “Calm down! Calm down!” “Must-have” beauty products: Lip gloss and blush Hair regimen: Moisturizer.) My night look is casual as well. Day look vs. but she doesn’t look it. Nile. but it depends on the occasion. boots. night look: My day look is casual (jeans. and I play more with accessories (earrings. but not out to party. Favorite hangouts: I love triptyque in paris. the natural skin tone is already so beautiful! www. text_SELENA RICKS photography_NUTE NICHOLSON 6 26. It is so beautiful! Average night’s sleep: Five to eight hours.myspace. like going to my own concerts. how new york’s night owlettes put their best faces forward ‘round the clock.com/ayosound 34 T RACE T RACE 35 . 3 she works hard for the money. belts. parties are just for fun.) Is going out at night essential to your professional success? Yes. and in New York I like to go to Riverside park with my son. I drink herbal tea How do you unwind? the only time I unwind is when I play my music When do you feel most beautiful? When I’m in a hot country and don’t need any makeup. I use a cream called Melkfett (a German brand.
Beatrice. Day look vs. good old Maybelline Great Lash mascara in royal blue (if you can find it) and Benefit oil-free powder in tan.m. graffiti legend What time do you usually wake up? 7:30 a.clawmoney. no real make up and hair in a bun or ponytail – kind of a mess! Night – bright eye makeup. sparkles and big hair! Is going out at night essential to your professional success? Yes. and wake up a few minutes earlier to get in some good snuggling with your honey! “Must-have” beauty products: Weleda Iris day cream. but do add hairspray (Dove pump) at night for volume.but only when DJ Free Simon is on the 1’s and 2’s. Favorite hangouts: Cherry tavern.milk and sugar please! How do you unwind? A joint. or before if the cat wants to tap my nose Best way to beat morning stress: Set your alarm clock so you don’t oversleep. never blow dry. night look: Day – a bit of lip gloss. Wet ‘n’ Wild liquid eyeliner in turquoise. NARS blush in taos. Hair regimen: Wash twice a week (Frederic Fekkai) and use an ultra rich conditioner (terax).com 36 T RACE T RACE 37 . Average night’s sleep: Five to six hours except weekends – then 10 hours! What’s your caffeine fix of choice? Coffee .stockist 38. www. New York City Designer. all big deals are done on the dance floor. Claw Money. when my beloved and I are kissing. fashion director. something fattening and some bad tV When do you feel most beautiful? I guess really in the morning. home Sweet home . hugging and telling how much we love each other.
Day look vs. otherwise I simply can’t function. What’s your caffeine fix of choice? What are you implying?! How do you unwind? having a whiskey with fans after a dynamite show then going home and watching Family Guy with some gummy candy.m. When do you feel most beautiful? honestly. I always use a spray pomade or modeler to either enhance or tame the bed head look. I’m a fan of the local bars in Williamsburg where I can grab a pint and a free pizza. Is going out at night essential to your professional success? Absolutely. How do you beat morning stress? Chomp on a wheel of Brie. Average night’s sleep: I’ll take what I can get. spritz it and tease it up a little. New York City Actress/stand-up comedian What time do you usually wake up? Between noon and 3 p. when all my senses are engaged and I feel inspired and expressive. Culture Shock Marketing What time do you usually wake up? Between 8 and 9 a. “Must-have” beauty products: Rose water. smiling. night look: My everyday look is relaxed and simple with subtle. feminine look. eyeliner. where I can play Donkey Kong and Ms. spritz it with a little flexible hold hairspray and brush it out and blow-dry my bangs down. www. a t-shirt. What’s your caffeine fix of choice? Nothing beats a delicious latte steamed to perfection How do you unwind? A hot bath. Hair regimen: I set my hair in the morning with this Remington twisters hot curler set that I’ve had since the eighth grade. beer gardens and in parks or someplace where I can find a bit of nature. be it a gallery opening. I alternate between black jeans. patterns and a little sparkle. A bottle of red wine paired with some gourmet cheese When do you feel most beautiful? When I’m most alive and healthy. pac-Man and drink a beer that celebrates my Swedish heritage. ladies? Day look vs.com 38 T RACE T RACE 39 . I’m a lucky gal. How do you beat morning stress? Gimme! Coffee [espresso bar] “Must-have” beauty products: Black mascara. night look: My day look is Goldie hawn circa 1967 in a wheat field and my evening look is Chrissy Snow meets parisian hooligan. MAC Mineralize Satinfinish makeup. My boyfriend cuts my hair. when I can get it. a good pair of boots and a more modish. cup of tea or nap helps me relax. Bobbi Brown lipstick in bare and a microphone. the bigger the hair the smaller the hips – am I right.m. to me beauty is something holistic in nature. Brooklyn Founder and Creative Director. respecting individuality. lip gloss and Fresh Sugar lip treatment Hair regimen: I shampoo every day and condition every other. vintage flair.cultureshockmarketing. or enjoy the video game nostalgia of Barcade. Arcona skin care line. there is always at least one event during the week to go to. but it’s usually around seven hours. Favorite hangouts: I feel at home in cafes and coffee shops.22. Maybelline Great Lash in dark brown. when I lip-synch in the mirror with a hairbrush – true story. laughing and being with people I love. 27. At night I set it again but a little tighter. Going out at night I usually opt for brighter colors. networking event or just to scope out what’s new and continue to be inspired. then brush it out. Bonjour! Is going out at night essential to your professional success? Yes – every show counts kids! Favorite hangouts: My round bed Average night’s sleep: 13 hours. I take yoga classes to re-center and rejuvenate.
and Los Angeles Creative Director/CEo. Jersey City.28. brighter lipstick and sometimes high heels. hellz Bellz What time do you usually wake up? 7 a. free drinks and friends. www. Average night’s sleep: Five hours What’s your caffeine fix of choice? Chai tea latte How do you unwind? With a glass of red wine or a fat blunt over a huge dinner with my husband When do you feel most beautiful? I wish I could say it’s when I have no makeup at all. is fine with me. Hair regimen: I shampoo and condition my hair everyday with Dove hair products and air dry.m.com 40 T RACE T RACE 41 . Favorite hangouts: None in particular. Day look vs. night look: Comfort is key for both my day and night looks. You never know who you’re going to meet or what business “convos” you may have that may change the course of your career. Is going out at night essential to your professional success? Sometimes going out at night can be as productive as a full day of work. but honestly it’s when I’m all dressed up for a night out. music. the only difference is my night look is just a bit more extra with more jewelry. How do you beat morning stress? Listen to my ipod or read the morning paper “Must-have” beauty products: Burt’s Beeswax lip balm – I can’t leave home without it. NJ. but anywhere where there’s good food.hellz-bellz.
a great vintage belt and a vintage-inspired tori Nichel blouse and jacket.torinichel. How do you beat morning stress? No Blackberry “Must-have” beauty products: CoR Silver Soap Hair regimen: I never rock my curls. I’m a bit more glam at night. When do you feel most beautiful? When I am around someone beautiful www. tori Nichel Collection. Brooklyn Designer. shower. Favorite hangouts: habana outpost in Brooklyn or tillman’s in Chelsea.m. work again by 11 a. night look: For day I love a great sexy pant and at the moment I’m all about the high waist pants.com T RACE 43 . I just wish Manhattan were more heel-friendly. My nightlife is essential for my inspiration. monthly massages. How do you beat morning stress? A cup of Lipton caffeinated tea and ignore fellow commuters “Must-have” beauty products? Lancôme mascara.com 42 T RACE 27. sneakers or boots.m. Favorite hangouts: Cattyshack in Brooklyn.31. being awake during the day to work is essential to my success. must have my sunglasses during the day. New York City Founder and designer. tee or sweater – and always an ill jacket. Is going out at night essential to your professional success? Yes. My night look – boots and jackets! Earrings and anything with a hood. Day look vs. Denim. What time do you usually wake up? 7:30 a. before the daily grind begins www. heels are a must. off goes the high waist pants and on goes the mini dress. Average night’s sleep: Seven hours What’s your caffeine fix of choice? Coke How do you unwind? Weekly pedicures. Lancôme Juicy tubes lip gloss and Black opal translucent powder Hair regimen: Steam treatments once a month at the salon and KeraCare hydrating shampoo and conditioner once a week with a 15-minute deep condition under my tabletop dryer. day or night. gym. It’s an easy way for me to expose the collection. eating cupcakes and hanging out with friends When do you feel most beautiful? After getting ready in the morning. – work. peep toes are my favorite. MadeMe What time do you usually wake up? 7 a. so I wash/condition/blow dry/ straighten.m. Is going out at night essential to your professional success? No. It’s pretty intense. Average night’s sleep: Seven hours What’s your caffeine fix of choice? Coffee with milk and two Sugar in the Raw three times a day How do you unwind? I play basketball a lot. Day look vs. Vintage Balenciaga shades.mademeclothing. night look: I must.
Brooklyn Fashion writer. over the top earrings. ginseng.N. MAC’s Studio Finish. including very bright eye shadow in gold. fabrics include silks. t. checking out my MySpace page “Must-have” beauty products: Cetaphil gentle skin cleanser. cropped. Is going out at night essential to your professional success? Yes. corsets – it gets crazy! Shoes can be platforms. a basic eyeliner from super dark black to a dark blue. My eyeliner also reflects these colors. outfits will be anywhere from short. golds or clear. hang out with cool friends. night look: Day look – very light makeup if I’m outside. read fun novels and some other things I won’t mention. oil of olay hydrating Beauty Fluid. satins.20-something. the Box. Full facial makeup. new media personality What time do you usually wake up? 7 a. How do you beat morning stress? two mile walk. Clear or light-colored gloss.m. very light blush creme. My motto is: only in New York can you spend $2 to meet someone at a fabulous party with free drinks that could change your entire professional career. flirty. turquoises. Night – no holds barred. Mountain Dew or Red Bull How do you unwind? I take myself out on a date – movies and a rare ethnic dish.styleaholics. indie-designed jackets paired with a fun skirt or jeans. any fun bright eye shadow and eyeliner and MAC’s Creme Colour in Flaming Fuchsia for the cheeks Hair regimen: throw it up in a seriously funky ‘do and keep it moving Day look vs. purples. reds. Styleaholics. tillman’s and habana outpost Average night’s sleep: Five hours What’s your caffeine fix of choice? Green tea. cover-up under the eyes. Favorite hangouts: Apt. throwing on favorite CD. any fun shiny lip gloss. www. smokes and/or brilliant whites. Lips can be super glossy in tones of pinks. MAC prep and prime. When do you feel most beautiful? Usually right before I step out of my home to go out at night – just when I’m done with the makeup and the hair and the clothes. glittery dresses to multi-layered. pumps or ankle boots. Dickinson’s Witch hazel.com 12 44 T RACE 3 T RACE 45 . And my crazy. Cheeks can be strong shades of hot pink or lots of glittery gold.
Louboutin’s surreal designs. their exhibition at paris’s Gallerie du passage took things one step further. through the woman. and always the shoes. though their métiers may be distinct. Christian Louboutin the escape-artist shoe designer for the rich and famous. their shared ideal is unique enough to demand some kind of collaboration. ambiguous poses and expressions. their minds meet on that terrain where fantasy and reality have irreversibly fused. Fashionistas have gone wild for Lynch and Louboutin’s project. are brought alive on the bodies of Baby and Nouka. Lynch is reported to have requested “no bones” on the models. strangely natural on the feet of these sirens despite their total impracticality as conventional footwear. since. one which frees them of the restraints of their day jobs. And so we see Lynch. the result of this shared adventure is. who uses his legendary red soles to conjure up fully-fleged sex sirens. Lynch through masterpieces like Blue Velvet and Mulholland Drive. the shoe designer. which include 26cm spike heels (protuding well beyond the front sole) and ‘siamese’ shoes (consisting of two shoes fused at the heel). Above all. the two cabaret dancers handpicked by Louboutin for this shoot. Diane von Furstenburg and Dita von teese were amongst the last guests to leave. each man stepped outside the usual sphere of their creativity. he wanted to get away from the mythical ‘size-zero’ body of commercial fashion shoots which priorotizes the clothes and accessories at the expense of the women themselves. Louboutin through his consistently covetable stilettos. So popular were the designs that the two men have agreed to sell five pairs and five images of each style. their minds meet through women. . At the private reception held for the opening of the exhibition. As though emboldened by the presence of the other. magical. setting himself up behind the photographer’s lens and Louboutin. Sofia Coppola. where glamour forms an obscuring veil and nothing is quite as it seems. but Fetish. Instead. and always just out of reach. the layers of the narrative are built up by shadows and spotlights. strong and vulnerable. It’s the final absurdity in this surreal tale: buying a pair of shoes which could never actually be worn. the pair of them are clearly looking for some new challenge. the film director. empowered and powerless. quite simply. that shadow of the night who drifts from cabaret to cabaret. It seems safe to say that the line between footwear and art has been decisively and magnificantly blurred. creating shoes that are all literally unwearable. but it is a testimony to their success that their biggest celebrity fans have also been the clearest embodiments of their joint ideal. but in which the woman takes centre stage. having refined their visions over years. according to Louboutin. each photograph tells a story of which the shoe forms a part.FLirTy PreTTy THing Inside the fantasy-meets-fetish collaboration of David Lynch and Christian Louboutin text_NEMIRA GASIUNAS photography_DAVID LYNCH David Lynch is the dazzlingly impenetrable director with a penchant for the seedier side of beauty.
” –david Lynch shoes_Christian Louboutin . they’re much more interesting than men. and the most wonderful beings. and that mystery that they hold really..”Women. and much deeper. to me.. are the most mysterious things. I think.
actor Kadeem hardison. in Bethann hardison’s case. “I’m trying to promote an awareness. with grace and humor but also with steely clarity. she was one of the very few African-American girls on the runway and in fashion spreads. and Bethann’s own son. we talked with a beautiful lady who has been thinking about the subject at least since the ‘70s. both in and out of the press. and Beverly Johnson. she has been asking overdue questions about the conspicuous lack of diversity in these industries. through her agency’s work – signing historically important (and lucrative!) deals between Veronica Webb and Revlon. with clients like Naomi Campbell.” she says — “a moment of consciousness. which she formed in 1984 and has since transformed into a talent agency. when. and tyson Beckford and Ralph Lauren. the catwalk. Bethann Management.” -STEPHEN GRECO T RACE 57 . along with Iman. in discussion events like “the Lack of the Black Image in Fashion today” and “the Absence of Color” — idea forums that have inevitably gotten people talking. Bethann stresses that she’s not fighting a battle with anyone. And recently. led straight to the business side of things: a modeling agency of her own. intelligence you could feel. tyson Beckford. the catwalk also led to activism. pat Cleveland. among much else — she has put color on the agenda in the modeling and fashion industries.eb Tr u Ty au e 80 # t o put this special beauty issue into perspective. they had more than beauty. those girls: they had spirit you could see. When asked about the goals she has set around diversity.
the point is. most of them can’t express what they want [from their models] anymore. have things really gotten worse since the ‘70s? BH: I witnessed some breakthroughs [for models of color] in the ‘60s. Yves St. the more work she’ll get. ‘I think it’s better here. BH: Marie Claire did a cover story on it. at tRACE. when you were modeling. But raising their consciousness about it… people start talking about it and it changes the energy. and ‘80s — and the ‘50s were good. All of a sudden. SG: It boils down to what designers want people to see on the runway. SG: Interesting. if anything. because everyone had their place and their time. the designer used to have his hands on it. and when you come back. But you watch something grow over a period of time and then you step away. they always do the same thing that the other one does. BH: thank you very much for that. And practically no one is pushing great girls in their faces. now. the same tone of skin. the same hair color — the same hair-do! You know they’re not looking for individuality. so does someone in London.On THe TabLe Beauty pioneer beTHann HarDiSOn sheds light on the ongoing revolution within the fashion industry interview_STEPHEN GRECO Stephen Greco: We saw so few models of color during New York’s fashion week this year. can consumers do? BH: I hear people say. the issue becomes very interesting. absolutely. Bethann hardison. SG: What have you been doing to create awareness around this issue? BH: You have to move in a very collective way. And then you realize you weren’t the only on thinking about it. believe me. ‘tell them to stop!’ Boycott this and don’t buy that! You’re talking in a horn because. how entrenched is this problem? Bethann Hardison: It’s gone on for decades. they don’t want much. it’s like it never happened at all… SG: that’s scary. we’re happy to do our part. And I’m not talking about the same race. SG: Well. And to me. they leave it in the hands of stylists. it’s no longer just about someone’s “point of view” about design choices. BH: And if you interview a designer at the end of a show. things start to change naturally. And everyone is doing it and no one talks about it. And Asia’s got its own problems! the more European an Asian model looks. I appreciate it. all the way through. SG: What. SG: Do you see the same situation in Europe and Asia? BH: oh. because they’re not even selecting the models anymore. You keep nudging and stay focused. people are going to keep shopping. you’ll get the run-of-the-mill rap. It was the spirit. SG: And the press is talking about this issue. so that choice becomes less and less personal. As creative and individual as designers think they are. when you start to become vocal — guess what? – so does someone in paris. and then press people come in. SG: You recently said something very interesting in Women’s Wear Daily — that things were actually better for models of color. At the end of the day. Laurent — he knew what he liked and it wasn’t necessarily the beauty of the girl. I’m talking about the same complexion. Now someone at Fashion Ink is talking about how fashion models no longer have any personality. In Europe people say. It’s almost like nudging a rock up a hill. when you start leaving out a whole race. BH: And I’m not just talking about black. Bethann. glowing gracefully 58 T RACE T RACE 59 . I’m talking about designers who basically lack a certain amount of true creative style — who don’t appreciate the model being an individual anymore. When something goes on this long — as long as a child’s life! — it becomes a problem.’ but it never is. and people start talking about it. doesn’t it? BH: obviously. You can see when a designer tries to get girls that look the same — the same skin color. ‘70s. too. because they’re not really going for much.
The female for LAND interview_Yo NI A SANGWE C ba ens of mar gh the l seen throu m as PTiSTe .
like. why don’t you every say I’m beautiful?’ Every once in a while I have to tell my wife. like ‘no you’re not fat and no you’re not ugly. but not perfect. to embellish it. I’ll change that. it’s like telling a woman. I’m always trying to embellish and make women see the beauty they posses. I work with a lot of beautiful women but my wife is beautiful to my eyes. we don’t say ‘you’re handsome.’ then I’ve done my job. You’ve been shooting nudes for so many years. I Do men need to be told they’re beautiful? We kinda of say it differently. It’s all an illusion.. I’m trying to show the beauty of the woman. If you don’t then they say ‘what’s wrong with me. remind her she’s beautiful. I’m not about the shock value. yes. What do you find beautiful about it? I find everything about the female form attractive and beautiful in any shape. I love. who better to call than photographer marc baptiste? Here the legendary photographer shares his thoughts (and lens) on his love of the female form.. hAIR Rodney Groves @ Judy Casey. not overtly sexual. Are these necessary? If so. ‘I’ll change this. as they are? I mean every woman as a little girl loved to hear that. Close to perfect. If I have to pick one I think what people see first even if you’re fully clothed is a great pair of legs. I always did. It’s an approval thing. beautiful legs. to create a beautiful image that they’re proud of and can say. From man to man it’s like a big compliment. It’s always good to be reminded you’re beautiful. Liu Dan @ MC2. different form but still possess beauty. Recently Dove has come out with the “Campaign for Real Beauty” and Procter and Gamble has the “My Black is beautiful” campaign. t’s been said – mostly by fashion designers – that the female form is like a canvas. lips too. all sneakers_puma. What are you trying to reveal when you shoot them in the nude? to empower them and to make them feel good about what they have. grace and elegance. I mean everything about a woman’s form. I’m raising three girls. No one is perfect. in all shapes and color.When TraCe decided to do an issue on “True beauty”.wow! In 10 years they won’t belong to me anymore and then they’re so bright and so articulate and beautiful. Copa scocer socks_adidas models (from top left): tiah Eckhardt @ Elite. but they’re pure. their vessel. ‘oh wow I look good. sometimes they might think some part of the body is not good or not adequate but in reality its beautiful. to me that’s beautiful… that’s sexy.. But I don’t think men need to be reminded that they are handsome. Breasts have to be perfect and perky. Mellda prado @ New York Models. If they’re perfect inside then it doesn’t matter what the outside looks like. to make you believe they’re perfect. If you ask models like Kate Moss. you know. an issue we thought should truly reflect the diverse beauties of the world. MAKEUp Jenerio @ Judy Casey. do women need to be reminded theyíre beautiful. Sammy Jo Wilkinson @ MC2. We all have them.’ So if can change one woman’s perception of herself. Has having daughters affected the way you view women? It made me appreciate women a lot more. Is it the same for photographers? I think the female body is a beautiful landscape. knowing what you have and embellishing it. embellish what they have to make you believe that they are perfect but deep inside they know that they’re not. I know it helps their confidence levels. not just inside. Sensual.’ you know. to me at the end of the day.’ We say ‘oh you’re okay’ to each other. Beauty is still in the eye of the beholder. it all rolls down to confidence.. What makes people comfortable looking at your nudes as opposed to.. they have to fit the frame of the body. Dominique @ Elite T RACE 63 . Do you have a favorite body part that you like to shoot? I love legs.’ But we’re raised as completely different beings from women so we react to each other differently. raising them is like.. I mean I was raised by five women. Some people feel women hide behind clothing. Sexy is… Confident FAShIoN Amber Gordon. say. Everybody’s trying to camouflage it. Is there such a thing as the perfect body? No. as we see them. ‘you’re gorgeous. but it made me really appreciate women in general. And I think it can be a different shape. Beauty instead of shocking. more pornographic images? Because it’s two different approaches. Men just want to be men. are you perfect? they always think they have flaws.
Mellda Prado .
..“Sexy is.confident” Mellda Prado 66 T RACE T RACE 67 .
Tiah eckhardT .
Tiah eckhardT I think the female body is a beautiful landscape” liu dan 70 T RACE T RACE 71 .
“Beauty is still in the eye of the beholder.” liu dan 72 T RACE T RACE 73 .
“sexy is…confident.” doMinique saMMy Jo Wilkinson cap_EUGENIA KIM .
or Five new yWENk I A SANG text_YOLAND 76 T RACE tics o mine the poli ers exa photography_ ANDY LI f beauty T RACE 77 .
raquel cePeda Raquel Cepeda is an award-winning editor. where he majored in Architectural Drafting. dalia daVies Dalia Davies is an Afro-Caribbean writer with a passion for fashion. It’s a challenge just to fit in. If Dove is going to make me feel like I’m pretty then I’m gonna buy tons of it. and worked in different media productions. In May 2007. I think the R athletic image is healthy. you have to peddle an image that people can not only aspire to. Raquel’s book And It Don’t Stop: the Best hip-hop Journalism of the Last 25 Years. My parents always made me feel like I was one of them so I didn’t really feel like an outsider but I knew I looked different. there are images that predominate and it’s our job to facilitate those images. or one that’s too skinny. Working as the creative director for Korean fashion label “Kiok”. Sweden. whether you are Asian. culture and music. or from the continent of Africa. Dalia has worked in various areas of the television and fashion industry in New York City. I also didn’t grow up in America. there’s a lot of self-hatred in the community. Records. can see themselves in. focusing on creative marketing solutions utilizing web 2. but then again I’ve always felt like that. She wrote and directed Bling: A planet Rock. In 1996 he interned at Columbia Records and later went on to hold senior executive titles at Bad Boy Records. it’s all over tV. but more than aspire. I mean drop dead gorgeous. I crayon lee Crayon Lee came to the U. tupac Shakur and Das Efx. 78 T RACE T RACE 79 . because I always felt Swedish at heart. anna GrundsTroM Anna Grundstrom was adopted from Indonesia when thirty-one days old. You let people know that they’re gonna be alright. even children are having heart attacks now. What is smart about these campaigns is that they know how to market. Do you often feel ignored by the beauty industry? AG: Yes. Indonesia. And I think that we are so naturally beautiful. and how this infatuation correlated with the ten-year conflict in Sierra Leone. Star trak and J. Korea. Raquel Cepeda: Most marketing is aspirational. I’ve always had a very good self-image. the Dominican-American community – comes with diabetes. people are always super surprised when I say I’m from Sweden. and because of this. Most of America is fat. throughout my life I used my parents products. I didn’t want to identify with a group of people that were responsible for so much destruction and misery around the world. but they’ll never have a shot at being a poster child for some of these campaigns because they don’t fit within those defining terms. you have to say “fat is beautiful. it seems to be like a wave of bigger girls. they become loyal customers. Born and raised in rural Binghamton. New York and a graduate of North Carolina Central University. there are plenty of people I know that are beautiful. blond. Anna is presently working as a pole dance instructor at New York pole Dancing studio. shows like Grey’s Anatomy. Marcus Logan: I think it’s beyond women. I feel like it’s not only these campaigns. It wasn’t until later on that I was like ‘I shouldn’t use this because I look funny. So I think it’s almost presumptuous and naïve to embrace that kind of image. I was adopted as a baby from Jakarta. they’re like ‘oh my God. while getting a great workout. So when you see these campaigns on television. ecently Dove has come out with the “Campaign for Real Beauty” and Procter and Gamble has the “My Black is Beautiful” campaign. Additionally Marcus has produced tracks for oDB. Are these necessary? If so. grew up outside Stockholm. our society is such where inclusion is the constant and the defining terms for what those inclusion factors may be don’t come from us. I felt that they were icy and because I grew up learning a lot about history. you’re not blonde. Ugly Betty… I don’t know if it’s just because it’s been so extreme the other way for so long or is it done to be marketed to women. After graduating from Virginia State University. I grew up with tall. blueeyed people. in 2001 from Seoul. She has also studied Multicultural Literature/ Creative Writing. Dalia challenges the misguiding media representations that contrast to her knowledge on black beauty. And when you peddle. even in music. pole dancing allows Anna to encourage everyday women to feel beautiful. Existing within a supportive tight-knit and academic extended family. Maybe I’m an anomaly but I’ve never thought that blonde and blue-eyed was pretty. that was like out of the question.’ RC: I only wear lip gloss. the CRM Group. you’re not blue-eyed.S. Marcus turned his attention to music. hypertension. but I don’t feel it necessary that when we see a model who is big that we should celebrate that. that I had a different skin tone. She moved to New York in 1997 to attend the Certificate program at the Alvin Ailey American Dance School. she also began working with trace in January of 2007.0 media and mobile initiatives. he left the music industry to start his own marketing consultation firm. And even on a common scale with your friends. do women need to be reminded they’re beautiful? Anna Grundstrom: Maybe because it’s been so far to the extreme with skinny models for so long. sexual and powerful within. and that comes out of fear. traveled to various parts of the world. documentary about American hip hop culture’s obsession with diamonds — “blinging” — and all its social trappings. multi-media journalist and filmmaker. I didn’t realize until later – like with stuff that I put in my hair or how I cut my hair or makeup – you know. but when it comes to representing something like Swedish beauty. Weight – especially in my community. when you tap into that fear and self-hatred and start telling people that they’re beautiful because they’re big. the first ever “Best of…” anthology to win a 2005 pEN Beyond Margins Award and Best Arts Book from the Latino Book Awards. I don’t think I thought about it growing up in Sweden. West Africa.’ It wasn’t that I felt I was ugly. Marcus loGan Marcus Logan was born and raised in the Crown heights section of Brooklyn to a single mother of Jamaican descent.” I think Jill Scott is beautiful. She lives in New York City with her daughter. not just on the inside.
however I do feel like [for] my generation and the younger set after me. they’re just doing their job. who says that diversity doesn’t work. Different body shapes. It’s very easy to point a finger at the media but it’s harder to be introspective and point the finger at yourself. But if it’s never given a chance then it will always be the way it is. Now its just T RACE 81 80 T RACE . that’s when you will question it. like the energy of hip hop. it seems. I think that it starts in the home. it was like. I don’t think you can invest too much energy into the fashion industry unless you really want that to be the deciding factor to who you are and what you represent. for different reasons. She doesn’t think. I just don’t even look towards it. how should they market it? I don’t feel it has anything to do with racism because the whole market is white. I think there’s definitely more people of color in the media. But people prefer white models more than anything. that shit all went out the window and it became about making that paper and Scarface became the idolizing figure that hip hop is now emulating. if the powers that be gave an opportunity to that diversity. so. but now. blue eyes. In high school that’s all you saw when it was time to choose prom queens. Are everyday woman affected by this? RC: the clothes that are on the runway are not made for everyday women and everyday women don’t go to see fashion shows. But when I would come back to school. Going back to what Raquel said. Youtube. there are definitely more people of color now on television than there were when I was growing up. subliminally racist shows. it’s about the numbers. ‘oh wow. I think that’s why you see a lot of creativity coming out of the hip hop generation because you didn’t have anybody saying you were beautiful so you had to find a way to say. we still had black power movement in our system and that translated into hip hop. they have the numbers. but how they’re looking is very sad. I mean I don’t care. Most people looking at the runway are white people imagining how they’re going to look with those outfits on. the way the internet rules now. that’s the unfortunate part. you’re gonna have to start in the home. etc… It’s now an added on example towards ways of connecting with what other images of beauty would seem like. either white or Korean. I can’t fault them for understanding what they understand because a lot of them come from the crack era. It’s about creating a balance. this is dope and you’re gonna be on it next. that shits not made for me so I can’t even relate.A you had KRS-1. ‘who says looking at statuesque white models is the only way? Who says that looking up to this woman that’s strutting down the runway is gonna set the standard for the rest of the world?’ I’m saying this from a place where you have so much diversity so. But as an older person you create your own style.’ Bethann Hardison has called attention to the lack of models of color on runways. women of color wear thongs and fight over men who suck chicken grease off their fingers like Flavor Flav. if you had N. So if you want to change that. it’s not really for me.’ It’s not like that at all because you have to start empowering the little people that you’re raising. it’s almost like. ML: Coming up in the 80’s and 90s.’ My mother used to make sure we traveled often so we could see how other cultures lived. but there is so much beauty. For the television executives. I don’t want to blame the media either because I feel like a lot of people’s families. the Africa Bambatta’s and Zulu nation really transcended the Latino and black cultures. ‘well what I do is beautiful. I look back at some photos of myself from high school and my makeup is too light. certain movies wouldn’t play. you don’t want to get big and not be able to move around. Crayon Lee: 70% of the population in America is white and the rest. racist cartoons and Archie Bunker and all these terrible.“Once you accept your body you don’t want to hurt it. podcasts. So if the money is the matter. A lot of the cosmetics that they had when I grew up were not directed towards women with my color or features. In hip hop. You do feel ignored and have to find your own way. the key is balance. DD: I definitely always stand up for the media. We should be pointing the finger more at the parents than at the media.W. Even if it’s not your child. people at the networks are supplying a demand. New York and culturally it’s very white: blonde hair. a lot of them have generationally dysfunctional families and they’re just products of the environment. So now the media is being laid blame for the natural progression of their lives by default. Dalia Davies: I grew up in Binghamton. to me I think the bigger challenge is… I don’t know if it’s a matter of empowering ourselves to have platforms that go against these atypical platforms. I’m a parent of a pre-teen and I’m in the media and she doesn’t have a low self-esteem. You couldn’t get certain products. or as Bethann may be doing by creating some sort of catalyst to change within it. the option of media has grown so much. We had violent. they didn’t even get Dreamgirls and it’s only like two hours outside of New York City. how I’m gonna rock this. in how young people negotiate their identity. You watch shows like “Flavor of Love”… when I spoke to the people at Vh1. like. But does what happen on fashion runways trickle down and affect the everyday woman at some point? AG: I think as a teenager when you question all these things. So I don’t know if they have to have more models of color for whatever reason if they want t make money out of it in the end. they don’t raise their kids… RC: Well I think that’s an issue that deserves it’s own panel. But in terms of the male clothing that’s put on the runway. Black women watch themselves being metaphorically lynched on television and they watch it week after week. And I definitely don’t look at myself like I need to go to the gym that hard to fit within it. ML: I think the bigger question is. absolutely not. Are there a lot of Asian models on the runways in Korea? CL: We have the same amount of options to pick. those clothes are not built for me. Do you think formulating a positive self-image and beauty is harder for young people of color right now? And I’m mainly speaking from the perspective of the media playing such a large role. As you get older you care less. So when you really look at the kids. like 30% is minority. and they’re taller so sometimes the clothes look better on them.” – anna Grundstrom hate to use the word exotic. I’m 4’10” and I ‘m not gonna grow any taller anytime soon. RC: I think that it’s too much pressure to put on the media. ‘you’re to the side. there’s still a lot of terrible and violent stuff on tV and the movies. And what people are demanding to see of people of color are images that are not so positive.
like on a regular basis.’ once you accept your body you don’t want to hurt it. When you can do that you’re an instrument. And they start to embrace their flaws. It’s hard for me to identify with it because I’ve always had respect for women. probably not as bad as women but you have your own processes for moving on and dealing with it. they don’t. I believe that opens up the world and you can see how other people are confident. We want someone to say. like you don’t want to get big and not be able to move around. that you need to enforce in them what they need to know about their own personal beauty but a lot do not know. like the Mack is some of the funniest shit in the world to me. the media is just capitalizing on something that already exists. At this point in my life. I mean I have a daughter… but a lot of elders have told me to never be ashamed of walking around naked in front of your children because then they start to see that you worship your body and start treating their bodies like temples. Ana paulo and Melida. I think it’s great to be naked and healthy to walk around naked in front of your kids. Do men go through the same issues with their self-image? ML: only when it weighs against a woman. You have to. AG: I’m pretty okay with my body.’ We want that. She’s been to many countries and seen how people live. If you don’t have the time to travel. Even though there are a lot of representations of black people on television they’re not necessarily good representations. ‘You’re beautiful. We have to empower the young people. It needs to be dressed properly so that it can be articulated to the kids. we immediately start thinking of women. this is “movie” and this is “life. like the things that I do are for my own personal integrity. even the models. we have to do a lot of touching up for covers and stuff. they know what’s going on. You have pimp movies. I don’t think a lot kids know where to look to know about their beauty. It was funny to me because they had a really hard time taking their clothes off and from the time I walked in to the time I reached the pool I was completely naked because I was in my country and I love being naked. we do things based on the expectations of accolade. We’re instruments to the same process to the people that are in our lives.flatline. DD: I would say travel and reading. Spend that little bit of time and it’s more than images coming and going. If I didn’t have that growing up I would have been lost. I think it’s sexy for a woman not to look like a man. I know because I’ve worked in the industry. I used to dance modern dance and had more issues with my body than I do now but discovering pole dancing just kinda changed me. It’s just great to encourage them to stand in front of the mirror and be like. You rock! You have to feel you have a great body. I’m kinda settled with my flaws. In this issue we decided to ask everyone to be naked. they know about the Internet… I just can’t put it all on the media. the big question is whether or not we will have a broader range of information to funnel through the media that we do have. are there any solutions? Is there anything to that can be done to make women feel more okay with themselves? ML: to me it’s just knowing you and loving you as best as you can and not looking or referencing any outside sources to define that. DD: For example on my block in harlem. As contrived as this question may be. It doesn’t set the standard.’ or ‘that’s a nice haircut. So I do think there has to be a variety. in the same way that Raquel is an instrument to her daughter. it moves me. But it’s within the context of the Mack. Raquel. So it’s hard for me to identify with how you can call someone a bitch or a ho. as has been said. And we have to give young people today credit. which tV shows. AG: I think travel is a great way but a lot of people won’t be able to afford that. the movie and sometimes “Dancing with the Stars”. But I think generally speaking men. you tiful so beau I’m u were g yo iful. Again. It’s just great to have women come in for a session – we don’t like get naked – and they’re super shy. I’m just talking to her. I mean nobody is. like everybody.” DD: A lot of kids don’t know how to draw that line though. I like Dance with Me. there’s the Internet. She’s been traveling since she was three. they’re supplying a demand.” How comfortable are you with your bodies? RC: When I was an editor at one World magazine. ‘well w ou’re gonna idn’t ha o say “You d a way t s dope and y nd is i had to fi th i s . it’s not real life. or rather. they’re smarter then we are. Does the media inform how some men perceive women? ML: I think it just reinforces. ‘damn you look really nice. how do you reinforce your 10-year-old daughter’s beauty? RC: I think traveling is a very good way. no balance. I like watching tV. I think there’s something sexy and sultry about curves. “undraped. I tell her… well obviously you have to tell people that they are beautiful but that it’s more important to be smart and that the shit she sees on tV is bullshit. it’s your instrument. We’re not perfect.’” ayin eaut ybody s I do is b be on it next hat ve an . As men we get it. ML: I think its just dressing. A lot of people’s confidence stems from the home. And people that you think look perfect. A lot of issues have come up on this panel in terms of self-acceptance. I’m not doing anything special. I don’t think they know which books. th ock gonna r ies alia dav –d 82 T RACE . we went to the Dominican Republic and took two models. how . I think that’s the thing that people in my age group definitely need. When I go to the gym I do it for me. Just being as comfortable in your skin as you can be. When we talk about beauty. sit down with your kids and Google Map. at times. At the same time it starts with us. say to yourself. RC: But that comes from the home. at some point. I think it needs to come from the home.
call for the next asting ibitions left far ac s. these undisc wer of naked am the po th e y s h o w e d u s TO GONZALES otography_ERNES EK-INAGAK text_NIKKO LENC I ph 84 T RACE T RACE 85 .y delivered scultural beaut face of tran behind. With inh overed goddesse bition.
And I’m always looking to improve myself. Background: I’m of African descent and both my parents are from the South.elaine harGroVe Age: 20s Occupation: Documentary photographer What makes you beautiful? honesty. recognizing that makes you beautiful. 86 T RACE T RACE 87 . to accentuate your strengths and your natural beauty. I think what makes people beautiful in the pretty sense is trying to make the most of what you have you have.
Ernesto Gonzales. revealed by these girls with naked confidence. slips poisonously into defining it. Why are we working on a Saturday morning? 32 minutes to shoot With the windows open and the fan humming along. We thought it would have been harder to get girls naked. In our society it’s more a commercial beauty that’s acceptable and to me beauty is more unique and individual. is on his way. after all. the girls effortlessly shrugged off every pre-packed prescription and body anxiety. we hear from one of our smokers. natural beauty. What we got was a shoot showing these girls’ naked confidence. asking people to bare themselves to the world is still a tall order. from the Black Sea region. it’s hard to be anything but ultra-chilled out. Girls. And since most of the world is so. beauty is a natural thing that people in our society try to hide. I feel like I am beautiful in that way and I show it and I am proud of it. A few are smoking cigarettes and most are deeply engaged with their coffees. Background: Russian. the photographer. and the firefighters across the street are already curiously staring. Getting naked. hippie messages that everybody is beautiful notwithstanding. well – naked is tough. Ernesto is unpacking his gear in one corner while someone else spreads a few copies of the latest “Black Girls Rule!” issue around the waiting area. was a beautiful experience precisely because all those dangers of disrobing were moot. Could we add another shoot so the Los Angeles-based could fly in? Would we consider calling again. raisa nosoVa Age: 18 Occupation: Visual fine arts student What makes you beautiful? to me. Ideas of “beauty” and “the beautiful” are fickle and dangerous. so fond of sexualizing any female part it can glue its eyes to. Zero minutes to shoot the first five transculturals arrive. helping to keep us clothed in commodities. Yet. thanks to the ladies who graced our Noho headquarters. excitedly roaming their eyes over the tRACE office. What we got was a study in self-acceptance. our open call. casually but impeccably stylish. 21 minutes to shoot We can’t help it – we’re putting on some Barry White.” we know. they move cautiously for about 30 seconds. As they exposed their own unique looks. Describing “beauty. prescribing traits and culturally specific ideals that leak onto self-images like post-colonial viruses until everyone feels just awful. is not easy. 88 T RACE T RACE 89 . unabashed comfort … L TRACE New York 46 minutes to shoot the on-hand tRACE staff is loitering outside the office. are already gathering downstairs. unabashed comfort and easy irreverence – things that cut the daily pretty from the truly beautiful. we were already getting requests for a second one. Even the street outside is muted. but in paris? We had counted on dedicated tRACE readers for this one – giving them just a week to tap into the limited announcement – but we hadn’t expected this.ess than 24 hours after the news escaped over the ethernet that tRACE was calling transcultural women to its first open call for “the New Face of transcultural Beauty” in New York City. We just wanted to see a handful of head-turning transculturals proudly “undressing” their self-proclaimed.
model What makes you beautiful? I think my personality makes me beautiful. Background: Liberian sTePhanie cecere decarlo Age: 20 Occupation: Advertising and Marketing student What makes you beautiful? I’m just me and I’m oK with that! Background: 100% Italian from the city of Foggia 90 T RACE T RACE 91 . I never wear make up and I don’t do much. I’ve got that mother instinct and I just love life and that makes me more motivated to rock on! Background: I’m Jamaican! TaTiana sMiTh Age: 20 Occupation: Model at Abercrombie and Fitch What makes you beautiful? I’m just plain.sherese shorTer Age: 25 Occupation: Circulations Manager What makes you beautiful? My personality – I’m always bubbly. FaMaTTa Fallah Age: 21 Occupation: Sociology and pre-law student. And my hair – it’s curly and it’s big! Background: panamanian and Jamaican. I’m open to a lot of different types of people and I’m always willing to speak with someone and get to know them. I love to help out and give advice.
I mean. Various states of undress fly through the office as young women are snagged straight from camera clicks to video interviews [check those out on the tRACE blog] and asked the inevitable. little thing. A few of us are a little dazed. guiding a small crowd through his developing polaroids. but here’s to hoping that it’s not to far away! anGela lee Age: 19 Occupation: painting. I believe in inner beauty. one girl hoots good-naturedly. week-of announcement. I’m already late to be impressed again. Blige is wrapping things up for us.” he says. “What makes you beautiful?” Awkwardness never made it past the door. We all get a minute to breathe and find more coffee. 1 hour. when I get to express something inside of me. 1 hour. I want to know more about everyone. but wow. Can we do this again next weekend. and fine arts student What makes you beautiful? Being natural. wow. y’know. I think I am beautiful when I’m doing something that I really love like painting or sculpture. casual and comfortable in their bodies. 2 hours 56 minutes into the shoot the last flood of true beauties has slowed and Mary J. its hard to think of this as work. Neck deep in beautiful women. his fully uniformed buddies across the street have clearly voted this guy over to make first contact. smiling grandly and holding her breasts. the crowd downstairs has tripled and the firefighters have gotten savvy to the goings on upstairs. even though it’s a very small. the upstairs is getting some heavy cell phone useage. Next weekend might be too soon for round two. especially considering the view they have into our office. the girls in the office are trying to spread the vibe. 48 minutes into the shoot the girls are endless – it’s hard to get a breather. Stepping out for a cigarette. 41 minutes into the shoot We’ve moved on to Missy Elliot and. “me and the guys. is talking excitedly. calling up their friends to come down to tRACE and strip off. sculpture. Background: Korean 92 T RACE T RACE 93 . telling me about what makes her beautiful. I feel alive and I feel natural and a part of the world. our ipod is shouting out to Alicia Keys and someone is absently singing along. Everyone breaks into applause. 2 hours 7 minutes into the shoot Someone streaks past me. We knew our readers would pull through on our underground. 29 minutes into the shoot Why don’t I have an hour to interview each girl!? By the time they’ve finished rattling off the five or six heritages that they can claim. although there’s still a world of women downstairs. I overhear a firefighter fumbling his was through introducing himself to one of the ladies in waiting. if you’re hungry later. smiling.” the lack of “hey! Baby!” today is stunning. 6 minutes into the shoot Bodies are buzzing upstairs. if you’re hungry later.5 minutes into the shoot two girls autograph their model release forms while another undresses in the bathroom. laughing. or we could get some tacos if you’d like. but the photographer. please? 1 hour. “Y’know. that I get to express it makes me beautiful. maybe we could hang out later. Whitley is comfortably baring her beautiful for the photographer and Syreeta sits down to bare hers with me. Just. we’ve got some burritos. changing.
I guess that’s beautiful. 94 T RACE syreeTa lockeTT Age: 21 Occupation: Advertising student. & Chinese Gennylee arruda Age: 20 Occupation: Real estate sales. portrait and fashion model. What makes you beautiful? I love myself. I’m also a professional trouble-maker. Background: portugeuse from the Azores. but if you love yourself on the inside it comes out. Black. of course physical features matter. and French. Brazilian. And I love to have fun. intern What makes you beautiful? My booty! And my personality Background: My father’s family is from Barbados and my mom has Black Foot Indian T RACE 95 .WhiTley hayes Age: 19 Occupation: Fitness trainer What makes you beautiful? how culturally mixed I am – my physical features. especially my eyes! Background: puerto Rican.
96 T RACE Fantasy meets reality when photographer rikki Kasso undresses tokyo text and photography_RIKKI KASSo T RACE 97 .
as the word in itself has too many descriptions. So the word nude is an adjective used to describe something. If in the case someone is usually shy and tells a joke to a group of friends. It is all an individual understanding and acceptance of the truth.“ Some people take photos to remember special moments. Just as we would want to be comfortable in our homes and beds we want to be comfortable in our own bodies. these bodies are the packages. When questioned of the concept of nudity. just the human body. In my reality I am always as nude as the girls I photograph so it is an even exchange. and fortunately does not alter itself for the sake of beauty. My complexities become simple when I realize the simple complexities of the body.undressed.. the vehicle for pleasure. he/she is in a nude state. So it is natural to seek that certain comfort. the Japanese word Hadaka is the used to describe “body” not male or female adult or child. and it is also natural to be influenced by the “standard” of comfort.” 100 T RACE T RACE 101 . the body as a figure. Unfortunately a flower has no idea how beautiful it really is. we create the content. the word also means “without”. I create special moments to be remembered. the camera is over my eyes. And this as well is to be considered sexy or beautiful. the catalyst for pain. to be comfortable within your body is another issue in itself. the word can be explained through many understandings. the camera never remembers what the heart will. If we could only be as simple as the body it would give me the pleasure I would love to deny. the animated figure with thoughts and a smile. as I am with my body and she is exposing hers the beautiful feeling of nudity is remembered in my on going story only to be described as Megabytes of Life…And because at the Rikki Mouse Club there is only one dress code………. and the human that exists inside each have an identity that can be exposed nude and represent true beauty. my world exists in a telescope to reality 3ft in front of me.
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S. present and future. but having lived here for 13 years now.” among her other beat-punk anthems. makes it credible. From its inception.1 million of the city’s eight million residents are from abroad. Russians (100. As she ended the three-and-a-half hour show with her ballad “Elegie. She did a medley of “horses” and “Gloria.S. T RACE 109 .” she listed some of the famous musicians and fallen spirits she had shared the limelight with over the years. Even the smaller ethnic communities are sizable.000) than several states have black people. she was the gateway to the earth. singer helen Wheels. the energy. In short. the downtown diva returned to the stage where she reached into a bag and handed out small black pins that read.. a revolving landscape and a constant and oftentimes A “even if a trend starts somewhere else. desire and relentless spiritual force that define it has manifested itself in ways that its early Lenape Native American tribes might have had trouble imagining. China and taiwan. moguls. contradiction and nuance than some of the kingdoms of ancient civilization. It is estimated that New York has more Jamaicans (275. the U. or too narrow in cultural scope. they included band members Joey and Dee Dee Ramone. you have only to look at the demographic makeup to realize that “the world” is indeed represented by the city’s five boroughs.000) than any city outside of Jamaica. When someone from the audience called out “You missed one. it has always been a kind of astrological magnet for mavericks.000).” In many people’s minds. guitarist Robert Quine and the rock critic Lester Bangs. on the other. It is a delicious cocktail. When the set and the excitement simmered.4-mile length. the city has more Ethiopians (3. But to tell the story of New York would be to write a social history of the world. new york always defines it. followed by henry hudson’s landing on Manhattan Island on September 11. artistic counterrevolutions. but neither can match the breadth and depth of New York. 1609 (the date the area was officially mapped). countless political revolutions. crimes waves and culture wars. owner of Ricky’s NYC. each group is quite large. New York City – that cosmic wonder of selfmanifestation – is still the future. the axis of America’s past.000) than anywhere outside of port au prince. it is a port city and the entryway to the experiment of America. I am not a native New Yorker.” the urban centerpiece.” For naysayers who would argue that the city is too American. more Dominicans (350. it is a young city with more depth. “What remains is future. an alien. it is “the dream.000) than in any city but Santo Domingo and more Greeks (100. at home in park Slope. Wells noted. As h. not only does the city have every ethnic group imaginable.000) and Chinese (200.” she pointed out that CBGB was expiring at 33 – the same age as Jesus. “to Europe. on the one hand.” -ricky kenig Ricky Kenig. Local planning officials estimate that 2. And during its nearly 500-year lifespan. Los Angeles and Miami have a higher percentage of foreign-born residents. the city has been a cauldron for ideas and possibilities reflected on a canvas vast enough to span its 13. rocker patti Smith performed a tribute showcase of her work.R. It is a place where everyone is in his or her way. the infiltration of Dutch fur traders. More than that it has become my root system and barometer for measuring other cultures around the world. but no one is alien. there are more haitians (225. the city is more than an island of metropolitan dreamers. New York remains the future because it has worked so hard to get there. Beginning with its “European discovery” by Giovanni da Verrazzano in 1524. the British invasion. to America. she was America.000) than anywhere but Athens. soothsayers and aspiring everymen from the world over.t the closing ceremony of New York City’s legendary CBGB’s. I consider the city to be my home.G.
including one in East hampton and Miami.” Nicki noted. and a John Legend CD ebbed up through the speaker system that filters as far as the three bathrooms.combustible feast. By age 27. Where else do you see so many surprising and unidentifiable mixes wallpapering the streets? Where else do you hear the crosscurrents of some 40 languages being spoken side by side. a young Columbia University one of artist Keith haring’s seminal NYC works. “he didn’t know he’d knocked her up until he was in Brazil partying with friends. the twins live in a large brownstone owned by an Indian couple that occupies the first floor.A. tribeca. “We made it so that you could buy a tube of toothpaste and a dildo in the same shop and not feel like you were in a place that sells DVDs covered in brown paper. “I’m considering opening up stores in Boston. It’s a no-brainer really. “My store was originally called Ricky Love because I had worked for my dad so everyone assumed my last name was love. of couse. the first store was at 1718 Broadway back when Soho was an urban wasteland. their father. sun-kissed Saturday afternoon when I left Ricky’s and made my way to another brownstone in Bedford Stuyvesant to meet Cassi and Nicolette Gibson. who is from hastings. they are 19-year-old twins who were conceived in Maputo. every day of the week? My first subject was Ricky Kenig.” Ricky said when I asked why he’d chosen to keep his boutique retail brand rooted to his native soil. the conversation moved on to how much the moral and physical landscape of Manhattan changed during Mayor Rudolph Giuliani’s term. to the L. In my view. “Even if a trend starts somewhere else.” Ricky continued. save for the pioneering installation of a Dean and Deluca’s. a local of the Mozambican seaport Quelimane. We’ll see. Max and Dylan. near the universities. Mozambique.” We were sitting on the ground floor of his park Slope brownstone.” It was a bright. but we had to place them on separate shelves. New York always defines it.) Ricky came to Manhattan at age 13 to work for his father. met their mother. Ricky’s.S. to a five-year-old half-Indian. New York is the definition of hybridization at its best. that’s how you start to understand the rhythm of the city. in terms of racial make-up. According to Nicki.” “New York has all the best trends in fashion. a New Yorker from Rockland County.” he said. while 40 percent could fall under the classification of pornography) significantly shifted product placement. Brooklyn. 110 T RACE T RACE 111 . but he was happy. “It’s New York and L. We made these products mainstream so that they were less shocking. whose father is the founder of the famous Love chain drugstores. once your product makes it here … that’s really all you need. he now has upward of 22 stores in and around Manhattan. he had opened his own chain. they say that hybrids are always stronger. while performing at a blues club..” in homage to the actress Linda Lovelace from Gerard Damiano‘s famous 1972 x-rated film Deep throat. (one of the first Love stores was called “Linda Love. mental capacity and pure character. “As a New Yorker you have to move around a lot. half-Luxembourgian born-and-bred New Yorker. A reporter from the New York times who was writing a story on Ricky had just left. I talked to everyone from an El Salvadorian hair stylist to a set of African via Nebraska twins.” Ricky commented. Nebraska.” Ricky explained. I just dropped the ‘love. “When my dad sold his shares. and everything in between is just this big bread basket. during the 1987 Civil War.” We talked for some time about mobility.E. appeared from one of the upper floors and introduced themselves. During my visit their houseguests included a Capoeira trainee from Alabama.. Ricky explained that Giuliani’s insistence on the 60/40 law (at least 60 percent of merchandise had to cater to the general public. past tenants have included the filmmaker James Spooner (Afro punk) and his girlfriend.’ his partners were pretty upset with my success. which was recently renovated by the architect James Slate. his two 13-year-old twin daughters. For this Citiscape. makes it credible. “We took it to heart at the store.
“he was covered in tattoos and smoking a cigarette while he was styling a client’s hair.K. Fredi gave props to hugo paez. he got accepted to the School of Visual Arts. which he founded with partner Virgilio Santos. Cassi will spend time in Angola working on a documentary on a genre of music known as Kizomba.h. thanks to a friend. multi-tribal upbringing represented the future of New York. one of his first New York experiences involved working with the renowned guru of coiffure. the lasting impression from these oddly magical interludes was that the city continues not only to survive but to flourish. we made a date to meet for burgers at the Corner Bistro in the West Village. student and a friend visiting from Michigan. from El Salvador at age seven. Aside from oribé’s salon. you’re hired. multi-lingual. headroom and is currently stationed at Arte Salon in the Noho. “And I met so many real people along the way. working as a diesel mechanic and renting a hotel room with his younger brother for the sole purpose of “making enough art to move to New York.C. “these ladies would just start bringing out plates of Mexican food. the original “smoker of wigs. there were more inspired encounters: with Kiernan Costello at his aNYthing hester Street shop. I was talking to Nedjelco-Michel Karlovich. but it was a great backdrop for his work. and a naturally gifted hair stylist. at five-year-old Milan Matthes Kale’s Bay Ridge backyard and at the INA designer consignment boutique on prince and Elizabeth streets with shop owner and partner Khadijah Kesten.-based design company Attik and Fahrenheit 212 (an experimental division of Saatchi & Saatchi). Nicki is moving to Cape town. Quelimane and Zanzibar). all of whom form a low-key clan of some of the best hair talent in the city. whom he counts as a good friend and important influence.” As the story goes.”. But his point of entry is always classic beauty. Ned decided to start his own design studio.” “I started making these assemblages that had so many back stories. beautiful women and rock n’ roll. Design is a vehicle for me. I thought the check-in station for the new “gateway to the world” might look something like this.” we tried to spare you the technical details]. Along the route.“To tell the story of new york would be to write a social history of the world.” Ned admitted as we smoked cigarettes – he was fully clothed now – after the photo shoot. promising to wash down the meal with shots of José Cuervo.” Fredi remembered. he then admitted that he’d been thrown out of more than one Lower East Side bar with Wayne. as well as exposure to a new culture. “You would go to a restaurant and there wouldn’t be any menus. which is a blend of portuguese verse with African rhythms as its foundation. their favorite musicians (Kanye West and Ayo) and their mutual goal (spreading the vegan mantra). So we’re heading over the Brooklyn Bridge toward Manhattan and I wake up and I’m like. who is portuguese. he has worked at Soho’s Laicale. but it’s not the ultimate reason. As we proceeded to the photo shoot. “If that’s not badass I don’t know what is. where he studied with Stephan Sagmeister and Milton Glaser. he claims he fell into his profession accidentally. Fredi’s Wild West anecdotes – he is never without his cowboy boots – and constant string of jokes make spending time with him an adventure in entertainment. I couldn’t help think how accurately and profoundly their multi-national. My friend was driving and I was sleeping. they plan to take a year off to “absorb more life” before heading to college. and has been working in New York for the past 10 years. the perfect depot for an aspiring artist because he had endless access to a storehouse of “beautiful trash. the sun was setting as we said our goodbyes. “Wait a second.” “It was such a long journey for me to get to New York. the house alone represented a unique but not unusual microcosm of the fluid integration that is New York. where “no one spoke English.” he claims he didn’t intend to stay there forever. oribé. Fredi hailed up his neighbors.” to which oribé responded. the twins named their favorite ports (Seychelles.” Fredi moved to D. you guys said you were hair stylists?” During the photo shoot on the intersection of Lafayette Avenue and Broome Street. Ned met the street artist WK. Before leaving. elegantly tattooed bodies and world-wise insight into the untapped potential of a future society that represents the right kind of growth and evolution. After dropping out of school twice. Santos & Karlovich. if not the world. Living in Bushwick gave him a new creative direction. “I don’t have anything to show you but I’m a confident motherfucker and I’m good. although the editorial theme of this issue is “Undraped. “ok. half-Sicilian pittsburg native and now New Yorker. including a middle-aged 112 T RACE T RACE 113 .” Ned made the leap at age 24. what I’m good at doing. It’s just what I like to do. having just completed high school. Ned’s first New York apartment was in a Mexican neighborhood in Bushwick. ‘You’ve got to be kidding me…’” the New York Yankees logo epitomizes the spirit of the Big Apple.” he paused to light another cigarette and seemed to lose the thread of our conversation momentarily. With their discerning open-mindedness. oribé and Wayne Wheat. the things you make yourself do for those people who have no idea you’re doing it for them … even if it’s only a few shared moments of inspiration. Fredi approached oribé and said. as he stood naked in front of an autumn sun [Dear reader. the originator of the “I (Love) NY” logo. After stints at the U. and an older Dominican gentleman who asked Fredi if he’d been hired as a Calvin Klein underwear model. a halfSerbian. South Africa.” said. My final New York interview occurred on a Ludlow Street rooftop on a tuesday afternoon. Early the next morning I met with Fredi torres. Glancing back at the setting. they are among the brightest voices of the next generation. where she will work as a volunteer with urban youth and explore her dream of becoming a food critic. based on blood-and-guts realism commingled with the starry incandescence of impossibly possible dreams. I came by car.G. he draws inspiration from old gas stations. Fredi cuts hair with the precision and inventiveness of a four-star chef.” A native of El Salvador. he described the neighborhood as an industrial area. their fellow housemates were sitting on the front stoop enjoying an unusually balmy fall afternoon. to my mind. “When I first got to the city.” .” “there was all this shit like stuffed animals and leather belts in the streets … and a lot of halfway houses. to the surprised rejoinder of. Wells Chinese man who made multiple salutations in Mandarin.
to pick up whenever I want to go. what would you call it? Sonhos em perspectiva (Everything in perspective). What is your family background? My mother is from Quelimane. Mozambique. Describe your dream life. My father is from hastings. You find that thing you love. but his mom ended up buying plane tickets. the city is a meeting spot for people who connect on the world traveling tip. he met my mom while he was performing at a blues club in Mozambique. I’m ultimately kind of boundless and hope to stay that way. What have you done for love lately? I’ve learned to be more open and vulnerable with the people I care for. whether it’s a person. My parents met in Maputo during the Civil War in 1987. It’s home. but he wanted to get out so he went to Africa. what would you call it? When you think of the city. cassi GiBson Age: 19 Occupation: Freelance photographer and world traveler Number of years in New York: 11 What makes you a true New Yorker? I’m basically able to deal with things that may seem overwhelming to others. to never feel attached – hopefully the grass will always be greener on the other side. 114 T RACE T RACE 115 . to own a vegan restaurant in Cape town. Retirement home in Seychelles.nicoleTTe GiBson Age: 19 Occupation: Aspiring food travel columnist Number of years in New York: 11 What makes you a true New Yorker? My molding has been here. a curiosity that’s with me everywhere I go. he didn’t know he’d knocked her up until he was in Brazil partying with friends. What is your family background? My dad is from middle America. It’s the city. If you could rename New York. How would you define passion? It’s what drives you. As I grow as a person I can say more and hear more. a place. a thing. We were going to take a bus all the way from Uganda to tanzania and I would’ve done that for him. It’s your essence. How would you define passion? It’s a longing. Nebraska. things happen here that don’t necessarily happen elsewhere. you think of New York. and you follow it. It’s everything I come from. Describe your dream life. What have you done for love lately? I went to Zanzibar with my significant other Daniel and fell in love 1. A couple of cats.000 times over. If you could rename New York. It’s who I am.
What is your family background? I’m half-Irish. whether it is social or political. It’s about confidence in your belief and abilities. I couldn’t even conceive of it. there’s no escape because this is all I know. on the redistribution of resources.kiernan cosTello Age: 36 Occupation: Artist and owner of aNYthing Number of years in New York: whole life What makes you a true New Yorker? For me. abandoning practical concerns. also endurance. What have you done for love lately? Worked hard at communicating with my wife. I was born into it. If I was God maybe. half-Eastern European. painting in the studio for most of the day and also working with a community movement. 116 T RACE T RACE 117 . the risk of failure. what would you call it? I couldn’t do that. Describe your dream life. otherwise I’m staying away. there has to be some light-heartedness too and fun. an obsession. of being alone. a single-mindedness. If you could rename New York. Russian-polish Jewish. How would you define passion? A work ethic.
Describe your dream life. 118 T RACE T RACE 119 . If you could rename New York. where the heart of things are. I’m from pittsburg. you can see what makes the city real and beautiful. the process. everything. what would you call it? Everybody. always. “anything could happen today.nedJelco-Michel karloVich Age: 28 Occupation: Designer Number of years in New York: 4 What makes you a true New Yorker? If you start at the bottom. It’s all about the journey. What is your family background? My parents are both teachers. forever and now.” What have you done for love lately? I’ve just started my own design studio. How would you define passion? I think passion is when you feel you have to do something. the most beautiful part is waking up in the morning and thinking. as opposed to coming here from Connecticut and moving to Midtown to work as a stockbroker. My father is Serbian and my mother Sicilian.
ricky keniG Age: 45 Occupation: Founder of Ricky’s NYC Number of years in New York: 26 What makes you a true New Yorker? I don’t think there’s any other place but New York. Freedom What have you done for love lately? I live for love.khadiJah kesTen Age: 36 Occupation: Entrepreneur Number of years in New York: whole life What makes you a true New Yorker? I was born and raised here so it’s in my blood. so lust is the new “love. I’m pretty close to it but I could use some more currency – some cash and a couple of inches in width. My father’s side is from England. My father is Jewish-American. Describe your dream life. 120 T RACE T RACE 121 . to me. what would you call it? I would call it America because New York. what would you call it? I like it just the way it is. is everything. How would you define passion? the drive to get to the finish line. What have you done for love lately? Gone to 14th Street between 6th and 7th avenues to buy a DVD for $17. What is your family background? My grandmother on my mother’s side is Russian. the girls tell me exactly what I want to hear and leave when I’m done. If you could rename New York.99. What is your family background? My mother is Italian-American. If you could rename New York.” Describe your dream life. How would you define passion? I use the word lust. It’s also where Columbus landed.
to be able to have everything I want without struggling. If you could rename New York. You’re not a true New Yorker until you’ve marinated in it. Describe your dream life.C. What is your family background? I was born in El Salvador and moved to D. Describe your dream life. I’ve been beaten up by New York but I hit back hard. but if I had to it would probably sound similar to an obscenity. what would you call it? City of dwellers. What is your family background? Chinese How would you define passion? the drive that makes life worth living. But I’d also love to live on my own island with friends and have my favorite DJs spin all the time. Fredi Torres Age: 32 Occupation: hair stylist Number of years in New York: 13 What makes you a true New Yorker? My scrapes and bruises. How would you define passion? When your soul hurts. what would you call it? I wouldn’t. What have you done for love lately? Avoided it like the plague. at age seven. 122 T RACE T RACE 123 .MarGareT Moy Age: 24 Occupation: Costume assistant Number of years in New York: 24 What makes you a true New Yorker? I can tell people off in their native languages. Living in a world full of peace would be nice. I came to New York as soon as I realized what I wanted to do in life. What have you done for love lately? I ran to the airport and missed her ass! If you could rename New York.
If you could rename New York. Describe your dream life.Milan Xai MaTThes kale Age: 5 Occupation: Life explorer Number of years in New York: since birth What makes you a true New Yorker? I like the playgrounds. what would you call it? princess State. my friend Aimée and my school [the Brooklyn Free School]. How would you define passion? playing with my best friend Aimée. What is your family background? papa is Indian and Mama is Luxembourgian. Giving my pet rabbits a piggyback ride and going on an endlessly long camping trip with my friends at Fire Island. 124 T RACE T RACE 125 . What have you done for love lately? hugged papio and gave Mama a kiss.
” such a long jo “It was ple along the real peo I met so many and -nedjelco kar lovich A canvas within a canvas backed by the Manhattan skyline.ew york. me to get to n urney for way. .
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” “trying to establish a career in modeling was really hard at first because it’s not like a normal job interview.” “[My father’s] health was compromised because we simply didn’t have access to proper medical care.” “Continuing to evolve as a person. So when it cleared up I would have to say that was really a moment I would never forget. and education was always a big part of my family’s lives. Not knowing if she was going to make it out of Sudan. watching and learning from the way my parents raised us. but in the world. Alek’s journey has taken her around the globe. and so I use it to give back. having clear skin was just amazing. With a strength and humbleness that is unmatched in the industry. obviously.” the seventh born of nine children. and I always say New York is such a unique city. It terrorized me as a young person. that decision gave me more incentive to not take modeling lightly and really be consistent with what I’m doing. to the haute couture runways. It’s something you can’t buy or ask for. I would have never thought I would have started my handbag business six years ago that I named after my father’s birthday. watching how they persevered despite the economical and social challenges was very inspiring and has helped me make decisions in life.” Evolving and having the industry embrace me and watch me grow into the woman that I am. all nine of us. From her humble beginnings. not knowing that it would take two years for me to even be able to talk to her. For the first time I didn’t have the support of my friends in England and my family.” “Moving to New York was a big change. I really started to become an adult and that’s something that I didn’t think I would start to feel at 14.” “We always struggled as a family. for the good or the bad. I had a full scholarship at the London Institute. All that he taught me I can see clearly now. My mother always said: “It’s painful giving birth to a child. but that’s nothing. It was another culture. her recent book Alek: From Sudanese Refugee to International Supermodel takes readers on a journey through the inner thoughts and struggles encountered on her rocky road to stardom.” 130 T RACE . or how long it would take. here she shares seven experiences that changed her life. there were no guarantees and. so to leave college was a hard departure. Alek Wek has made her mark as a fashion icon and now as an author. although it does sadden me at times that he didn’t get a chance to see us grow and become successful healthy adults. text_LAURA MARCUS photo_MARC BAPTISTE “I used to have psoriasis and I don’t remember ever not having it. Alek’s journey is far from over. proving time and time again that her beauty isn’t just skin deep. “Growing up in Sudan.lucky 7 mODeL CiTizen sudanese-born supermodel alek Wek on the seven experiences that shaped her life. there’s no handbook. so having to leave my mother to go to England was the most difficult thing. once it’s popped out it’s raising that child into adulthood that’s the hard part. not just within the US.
99 uk £3.Transcultural Styles + Ideas us $5.50 Photography ?????????? .95 Fr ¤5.99 can $7.
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