S

hadow weave was introduced to weavers by Mary Meigs Atwater in 1942.
It seems amazing that she “invented” this incredibly versatile method of creating woven pattern. Shadow weave had perhaps occurred somewhere, sometime before, but never had it been identified in a way that allows its application
to be so vast. Shadow weave is a subset of the category “color-and-weave.” This
is the name given to fabrics in which the same alternating colors or groups of
colors are used in both the warp and the weft. When you look at these fabrics, your
eyes do not distinguish the difference between warp threads and weft threads (as they
do with weaves such as twill, for example). Instead, you notice the difference between
both warp and weft threads of one color vs warp and weft threads of the other color.
Generally speaking, shadow weave is the term reserved for fabrics in which the color
alternation is one-and-one. When other orders are used (two-and-one, two-and-two,
etc., the effects are called “color-and-weave.” Use this eBook to learn how to design
your own patterns in both color-and-weave and shadow weave as well as to weave
these innovative and incredibly beautiful fabrics.

CONTENTS
Dr af tin g Co lor - an d- We a ve Ef fe ct s
Sh aron Ald er m an .... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ................ . .......... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Sha do w Wea ve: An Ove r v ie w
Ka t hr y n We rte nbe r ge r ......... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..... ...... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Sha do w- Wea ve Ga m p on Four Sha ft s
J ea n K oru s ...... ............ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ....... .......... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Sub tle Ch oic es f or a Sha d ow- Weav e P ur se
J an i c e Jon es . ......... . . . ................ . . . . . . . . . ........... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Strip - Woven Kent e C lo th in Sha d ow We a ve
Bre n Ah e arn ... ...... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ................ .......... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
C h e nille Sc ar f i n Sha d ow Wea v e
J ea n K oru s ...... ............ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ....... .......... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Fa ll ing - L eaves S h ad ow -We a ve Swe a t er
A lison Ir w in and Je an Sco rgie . . . . . . . . . . . .................. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Shell Top in S had ow We a ve
Te rr y Ne wh ous e Fl y nn . . . . . ................ . . . . . . . . .......... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
C o lo r- an d- Wea ve an d Rosep at h
M ar g ar e t B . W in de kne cht ............ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ....... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
C o lo r- an d- Wea ve Sca r v e s
M ar g ar e t B . W in de kne cht ........... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ....... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Star To wel s in Co lo r- a nd -Wea ve
Brit t-Mar ie La m b ................. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ............ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
T he Thic k and Thin o f S had ow Weav e
J an e E va ns .. ........ .. . . ................ . . . . . . . . . . ........... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Hu c k- L ac e B lo us e a nd Sha d ow- We a ve Ja cket
J ea n S c org ie ....... ............ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ... ........... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Ti ps fo r P la nni ng, He m st it ching , a nd Fri ngi ng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

EDITORIAL
EDITOR IN CHIEF Madelyn van der Hoogt
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Linda Ligon

C R E AT I V E S E R V I C E S
DESIGNER Elizabeth R. Mrofka
PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Trish Faubion
PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Jeff Rowles
PRODUCTION EDITOR Nancy Arndt

PUBLISHING
PUBLISHER John P. Bolton
DIRECTOR OF MARKETING Mary KinCannon
MARKETING SPECIALIST Whitney Dorband

All contents of this issue of Handwoven are
copyrighted by Interweave Press LLC, 2011. All rights
reserved. Projects and information are for inspiration
and personal use only. Reproduction in whole or in
part is prohibited, except by permission of the publisher.
CO N TA C T U S
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Originally published in Handwoven®, January/February 2004, pp. 32–35.
© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

w e a v i n g t o d a y. c o m

8

Originally published in Handwoven®, November/December 1985, pp. 50–51, Instruction Supplement, p. 9.
© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

w e a v i n g t o d a y. c o m

12

Originally published in Handwoven®, March/April 2005, pp. 52–55.
© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

w e a v i n g t o d a y. c o m

14

Originally published in Handwoven®, Design Collection 19, Scarves and Shawls for All Seasons, pp. 6–7.
© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

w e a v i n g t o d a y. c o m

18

Originally published in Handwoven®, March/April 1998, pp. 34–37, 75; design by Alison Irwin; weaving and sewing by Jean Scorgie.
© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

w e a v i n g t o d a y. c o m

20

Originally published in Handwoven®, May/June 1989, pp. 54, 83–84.
© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

w e a v i n g t o d a y. c o m

24

Originally published in Handwoven®, January/February 1991, pp. 54, 75–76.
© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

w e a v i n g t o d a y. c o m

28

Originally published in Handwoven®, September/October 2003, pp. 28–31.
© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

w e a v i n g t o d a y. c o m

30

Originally published in Handwoven®, March/April 1990, pp. 40–42.
© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

w e a v i n g t o d a y. c o m

34

Originally published in Handwoven®, September/October 1987, pp. 42–43, Instruction Supplement, p. 6.
© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

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36

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