THE LONDON EYRE SHAWL

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THE LONDON EYRE SHAWL The front edges of this shawl hang straight down without the characteristic crescent-shaped curve of most sideways-knitted ruffle garter shawls. The shawl is knit in two identical triangles which are reversible, then stitched together along the decreased edges forming a spine down the back.

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MATERIALS: Yarn: Gauge: Alpaca with a Twist - Highlander 16 sts/4 inches in garter stitch, 27 rows or 13.5 garter ridges/4 inches in garter stitch

Yardage: 400 yards in yarn listed Needles: US size 10. Adjust your needle size to get gauge.

DIMENSIONS:

NOTES: Work the pattern line by line, performing repeats when indicated. Because of the garter stitch construction, the shawl lends itself to some reasonable variation in dimensions - depending on the yarn used - during blocking. Two markers remain in place throughout the body of the pattern. The ruffle marker is between sts 11 and 12 and the neck marker is between sts 2 and 3 from the neck edge. It is important to do the “lw & k2tog” when it is written. When you come to a marker which is not mentioned in that line of instructions - just slip it. There are times when leaving out the "sm" helps to clarify the numbers in a line of instruction. Stitch counts appear at the right hand-side of the page

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ABBREVIATIONS: kf&b k2tog ktm ktm-x kw/pw ke lw lw&k2tog m1 pm sm rs ws slip1kw slip1pw ssk Knit one st through the front, and then the back leg of the next st (increases 1 st) Knit the next 2 sts together (decreases 1 st) Knit to the next marker Knit to x sts before the next marker - read the dash as "minus" Knit-wise/purl-wise Work the line even to the end, slipping the marker(s) as necessary. With the right needle, lift the wrap (from a short row wrap and turn) from behind and place it on the left needle Lift the wrap that surrounds the base of the next st from behind and onto the lefthand needle. Knit it together with its wrapped st. Make 1 st by lifting the bar between sts onto the left needle and knitting it through the back leg (increases 1 st) Place a marker Slip a marker Right side = ruffle edge to your right as you are knitting Wrong side = neck edge to your right as you are knitting Slip, without working, 1 st knit-wise from left needle to right needle Slip, without working, 1 st purl-wise from left needle to right needle Slip the next 2 sts, without working and one-at-a-time, knit wise onto the right needle. Place the tip of the left needle through both front legs at once and knit them together (decreases 1 st) A short row. Knit [x] sts. Then yarn front, slip the next st purl-wise, yarn back, turn your work clockwise to the opposite side. With yarn in front, slip the next st purl-wise, yarn back, knit [x] sts, slipping marker(s) as necessary. Say, "yo, slip, yo, turn, slip, yo, knit" A variation of "psso" (pass slipped st over) which occurs only at a wrapped st. Lift the wrap from behind onto the left needle. Slip the wrap and its wrapped st knit-wise and one-at-a-time, onto the right needle. Knit 1. Pass the 2 slipped sts over the k1 and off the needle.

sr[x]

p(2)sso

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ABOUT THE SHORT ROWS: See “sr[x]” under abbreviations for exactly how to execute a short row with wrap and turn. There are several ways to do a wrap & turn. The one chosen for this pattern is compatible with garter stitch.

All short rows are executed exactly the same way - as given in abbreviations: a) b) c) d) A short row always starts at the beginning of a row. A short row can start on the right side, or on the wrong side. A short row can be followed immediately by another short row. When a short row begins on the right side (sr[11]), slip the marker after knitting the 11th stitch and before beginning the wrap & turn. e) When a short row begins on the wrong side, the 2 knit sts of the neck edge are included in the number which appears inside the brackets. Thus a wrong side "sr [17]" for example, would be done k2, sm, k15, yo, slip, yo, turn, slip, yo, knit back towards the neck edge. When you get close to the neck edge marker, follow the remaining instructions written on that line.

PATTERN SECTIONS: The pattern has 6 sections: Front point Ruffle Increase Knit Even Turn Corner Ruffle Decrease Back Point

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FRONT POINT rs ws rs ws rs ws rs ws ws rs ws rs ws rs ws ws rs ws rs ws rs ws ws rs ws rs ws rs ws ws rs ws rs cast on 3 sts k3 k1, kf&b, k1 k2, pm, k2 ktm, m1, sm, k2 k2, sm, ke ktm, m1, sm, k2 sr3 k3, lw&k2tog, ke ktm, m1, sm, k2 k2, sm, ke ktm, m1, sm, k2 k2, sm, ke ktm, m1, sm, k2 sr[3] k3, lw&k2tog, ke ktm, m1, sm, k2 k2, sm, ke ktm, m1, sm, k2 k2, sm, ke ktm, m1, sm, k2 sr[3] k3, lw&k2tog, ke ktm, m1, sm, k2 k2, sm, ke ktm, m1, sm, k2 k2, sm, ke ktm, m1, sm, k2 sr[3] k3, lw&k2tog, ke ktm, m1, sm, k2 k2, sm, ke ktm, m1, sm, k2 3 sts 3 4 4 5 5 6 6 6 7 7 8 8 9 9 9 10 10 11 11 12 12 12 13 13 14 14 15 15 15 16 16 17

(1) (2) (3) (4) (5)

Work the preceding 5 lines 3 times more, to 23 sts, ending rs. Each repeat adds 2 sts.

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RUFFLE INCREASE

ws ws ws rs rs ws rs ws ws ws rs ws rs ws ws rs rs ws rs rs ws ws

(1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7)

sr[3] sr[11] … lw&k2tog at the 4th st. After the turn … ktm, m1, sm, k2. k12, lw&k2tog, ke sr[11] … place a marker on the right needle before executing the w&t k11, sm, lw&k2tog, ktm, m1, sm, k2 k2, sm, ke k to the second marker, m1, k2 sr[3] sr[14]… lw&k2tog at the 4th st. After the turn … ktm, m1, sm, k2. k15, lw&k2tog, ke k to the second marker, m1, sm, k2 k2, sm, ke k to the second marker, m1, sm, k2 sr[3] k3, lw&k2tog, ke sr[11] k11, sm, lw&k2tog, ktm, m1, sm, k2 k2, sm, ke sr[11] k11, sm, lw&k2tog, ktm, m1, sm, k2 sr[3] k3, lw&k2tog, ke

23 24 24 24 25 25 26 26 27 27 28 28 29 29 29 29 30 30 30 31 31 31

Work the preceding 7 lines 11 times more, to 53 sts, ending ws. Each repeat adds 2 sts.

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KNIT EVEN rs rs ws rs rs ws ws rs rs ws rs rs ws ws ws sr[11] k11, sm, lw, slip2kw, k1, p2sso, ktm, m1, sm, k2 ke sr[11] k11, sm, lw, slip2kw, k1, p2sso, ktm, m1, sm, k2 sr[3] k3, lw&k2tog, ke sr[11] k11, sm, lw, slip2kw, k1, p2sso, ktm, m1, sm, k2 ke sr[11] k11, sm, lw, slip2kw, k1, p2sso, ktm, m1, sm, k2 sr[3] sr[1] (note: this sr will not have a lw&k2tog) k3, lw&k2tog (note - this lw&k2tog belongs to the sr[3]), k49 53 53 53 53 53 53 53 53 53 53 53 53 53 53 53

TURN CORNER

rs rs ws rs rs ws

sr[11] k11, sm, lw&k2tog, ktm-4, k2tog, ssk, sm, k2 k2, sm, k3, k2tog, ke sr[11] k11, sm, lw&k2tog, ktm-4, k2tog, ssk, sm, k2 k2, sm, k3, k2tog, ke

53 51 50 50 48 47

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RUFFLE DECREASE rs rs ws ws rs rs ws (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) sr[11] k11, sm, lw&k2tog, ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 sr[3] k3, lw&k2tog, ke sr[11] k11, sm, lw&k2tog, ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 STOP HERE ON THE LAST REPEAT ke 47 46 46 46 46 45 45

Work the preceding 7 lines 8 times more omitting line 7 on the final repeat. There will be 29 sts ending rs. Each repeat loses 2 sts. BACK POINT ws ws rs ws rs ws ws ws rs ws rs rs ws ws ws rs ws rs ws ws rs ws sr[3] k3, lw&k2tog, ke k11, sm, ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 ke k11, sm, ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 sr[3] sr[15]- lw&k2tog at st #4. After the turn … ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 k14, lw&k2tog, sm, k11 k11, sm, ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 ke sr[11] k11, sm, lw&k2tog, ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 sr[3] sr[12]- lw&k2tog at st #4. After the turn … ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 k2, sm, k9, lw&k2tog, sm, k11 k11, remove marker, ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 ke ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 sr[3] k3, lw&k2tog, ke ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 ke 29 29 28 28 27 27 26 26 25 25 25 24 24 23 23 22 22 21 21 21 20 20

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BACK POINT (cont) rs ws rs ws rs ws rs ws rs ws rs ws rs ws rs ws rs ws rs ws ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 k2, sm, k13, k2tog, k2 ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 k2, sm, k11, k2tog, k2 ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 k2,sm, k9, k2tog, k2 ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 k2, sm, k7, k2tog, k2 ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 k2, sm, k9 ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 k2, remove marker, k8 k6, ssk, k2 k5, k2tog, k2 k4, ssk, k2 k3, k2tog, k2 k2, k2tog, k2 k1, k2tog, k2 k1, k2tog, k1 slip 1kw, bind off 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 11 10 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 0

MAKE YOUR SECOND PIECE. Work the pattern again exactly as the first time. WITH BOTH PIECES FINISHED Flip one piece over. Stitch the two pieces together along the decreased edges. Match the neck borders as evenly as possible. Weave in loose ends. BLOCKING: Block the completed shawl by the method of your choice. Raise the ruffles in a pleasing arrangement and pin them closely on either side of each one. Block the neck border straight along its entire length paying particular attention to the area at the top of the spine.

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ACKNOWLEGDEMENTS The London Eyre Shawl pattern was created and named solely by me as a replication/copy of a shawl which appears briefly in the 2011 Focus Features film production of Jane Eyre - costume design by Michael O'Connor. According to Focus Features the original shawl was free-knitted by the owner of a company near London, England which produces custom pieces for period films. The name of the pattern is my way of paying tribute to the talented original knitter - whose name is not known to me. To the best of my knowledge, no written pattern exists for the original shawl. The London Eyre Shawl pattern is available by download and free-of-charge to anyone on Ravelry.com in the form of a PDF document. Please do not copy or distribute it for other than personal use. The shawl should not be made and sold for profit prior to obtaining written permission from me. I hope you enjoy making this shawl! Any errors found or suggestions for improvements to the pattern will be gratefully accepted by way of private message to doonya on Ravelry.

Published on Ravelry.com

October 2011

All Rights Reserved by Donna Strom

October 2011

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