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of the best Bohrl, Khoja and Muslim food in general li cmkp lnd served.were beyond rry horizon. .

8-ut I did at a later stage start ytsrr.ng a ttny Musllm rsF.Uran!situared within the old Lnurchtate station; kheema for z-annas, a foaf of bread for anorner anna. No problems about g:lrl"F chanSe. .Some peopte used to say that the kheemawas made.trom- cats, meat .., , lt tasted good. - Tltk was before the rallwav root(-overand started what lt reat one rtroke, rulnlng

and .empty.firct-classcompartbearcr, ihota ltent, a tur.baned ta pet of Scotch (not Indlar. maoe-foretgn-liquor) front In of you. lrandons,alsousedto run the rerreshment rooms at Mctorla r_ermJnus; (wtrhehaf .Iat-stands :?r.T9 6[way's runnlng shff, tdakl hatsfor'others), g;: oti prht3, the rounds of thc :?y

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!:.fin9 foodrhatwa! a ha||rairwiys--:in Titl_?l the Indtan cateririgon :r !g: of p.{vate

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After somethlnslike two hundred folod columnsin newspaperc and magazlnes,' BUSYBE$ iriveterate the "eating-6ut-e/r, ls neitherfaded nor fed up. In fact, he sayshis stomachhas neverbeen upset "ahhough thai may be because also drink I Bombaywate/'

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The first restaurartt was taken I to in my life was the purohit. lt was a novelty then, an excluslve vetetarian restaurant in the Churchgatearea, food served in {}ver thalis. half-dozen different pickles.An elderly aunt, who look me to the restaurant, ex_ plained, ,,The Guiaratis have se_ venl dishesand thev eat a little trom each dish.,, t was impressed. Purohlt was an exception, most.of the time t was iaken. and later went on my own, to lrani restaurants. Drank oversweet and over-boiled tea, ate cream caker (if it was Kvanls at Dhobi. Talao), discussed, racini Nevr york cotton, mainly 11d . Dcause most of the lranis had aotices put up Instructing Cu5tom.ersnot to discussthese two rubjecr. We lsed to go to George Res. -"_r-r..^?_,- . trotters, sitting ,_fl, upsrairs the family rooms,teltl in tng one anqher that the best roftr5 in the world were made tr George,s,possibly because rrt_*9rtg extendedfrom Colaba D uori Bunder.The delights of {ohamedallRoad. where some ifr Weekly, Dec. _

Thentime started moving..... "come and eat me at the Shali- ment, but the Grant Road Dethi mar".) Asiatic at Churchgatg with its Darbar, where Jafferbhoy conwaiters in little black waist-coats tinues to prepare food for the Within a half-mile area of and chappals, Gourdons next MohamedaliRoad, I think there common man of Bombay. And door, genuineEnglish food, Blue is more food than in all of Old the other famous restaurants of Gardenia,a little further, Pari- Delhi and Hyderabad,though the area: Coronation Darbar, sran Dairy at the corner, near not Lucknowcombined.And the where till the other day they Mr. Nana Chudasama's present place is at its best during the gave you rosewaterto wash your funny hoardings,Bombellis at Ramazan;food-stalls everywhere, hands in, and Grand Oriental, Breach Candy, Frederick's and Kokwah,two of the oldest Chineserestaurants, Monginis, where of "The pleasures eating out have remained. lhe present Akbarally's like a sits hotch-potchbazar, Coffee Club The early morning breaklaEts the innardsof of on the oppositeside of the road, goats at MohamedaliRoad, India Coffee Housi near Kala the saathandisand the nav handisof Choda,Chetna,the. other excluBohri Mohalla,the Shalimar sive vegetarian restaurant, home Restaurant of chess, one by one all of them advertibements. . ." have gone, the premises sold out to nationalisedbanks and Arab banks, mini-department freshmeatbeingroasted grilled which continuesto survivewithor stores(Bombaydoes not have a in wheel-barrows, the Kashmiri out air-conditioning, channel genuinedepartmentstcre). sherbet-walla, who occasionally muslc,unlformedwaiters. But the pleasures of eating continues to advertise his It is difficult to chooseamong out have remained. The early Wheel barrow on the scre6nof Bombay's restaurants. Between morning breqkfastsof the in- SuperCinema. the kababsat Harvic at Dhobl nards of goats on Mohamedall The klng of all the Mughlai Talao,the pork vindalooand rice Road,the saat handis and the food, of course, is Delhi Dar- at City Kitchen at Fort Market, nav handisof the Bohri Mohalla, bar. Not the Colaba Delhi Dar- the curried oystersand dry chathe Shalimar Restaurant adver- bar, crowded with Arabs and patis at Sindhudurg in Dadar, (theyalternate tisements betdeen boxes filled with Metro Shoes the fried crabs at KothachiWadi pictures a goat and a chicken, that they have just bought In in Girgaum, khichra at Delhl, of each one invitingthe diner to the shop on the oppositepave- Darbar,fish and chips at Way-

side Inn at Kala Ghoda, the Mangalorean lunch homes with their fish curry and mounds of rice (there is no more satisfying meal than at a Mangalorean lunch home), the South Indian Brahmintiffin lodges of MatunBa, food on plantain leaves, ghee from Coimbatore, rasam dripping down the elbow, the Kutchi restaurantsof Kalbadevi, situatedabovethq Gujaratl pedhis, fresh-friedpuris and vegetables straightfrom the kitchen, a red-hotgailic chutney,Friends' Union Joshi Club and Thacker's Lunch Home, the Lucknowfood at Rafiq's at Bhendi Bazar,a Maharashtrlan thali, complete with srikhand,on GokhaleRoad, though, unfortunately,for ge- . nuine Maharashtrian food you still have to Bo to Pune or Kolhapur or Solapur(Mr, Bal Thackeray,to note),pau-bhaji,swimming in Amul butter and topped with gratedcashewnuts my at friend Dandekar's Cannon PauBhaji Stallat Eorl Bunder. It is a strangethlng, but my stomach has never been upset with all the food I have eaten. Though that may be becauseI also drink Bombaywater.

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