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as preparing a site and planting some seeds. Planting outdoors needn't be as complicated as many make it. Far too much emphasis these days is placed on cloning, when growing from seed is infinitely more interesting. Direct seeding outdoors may not be for everyone, but it is certainly a simple and time honoured method of growing our favourite plant. Why direct seeding? In nature, female cannabis plants grow together with their male counterparts, becoming impregnated by the golden pollen come fall. As the calyx shrinks back and starts to rot away at the end of the season, the mature seed falls to the ground, where it remains until conditions are right for its germination. One of the main effects of cloning is that each plant is exactly the same as its sibling. While this may be an advantage indoors, it can work against you outdoors. A strain's gene pool provides the ability to adapt to different climates and conditions. For example, we might have a very wet autumn one year, causing a large outbreak of Botrytis (mold) in your bud. Out of one hundred plants grown from seed, twenty of them may be relatively free of mold, while the others are destroyed. These twenty plants have some inherited trait making them resistant to Botrytis, and this adaptability is what allows plants to reproduce and survive from year to year under varying conditions. Should you have chosen only two mothers and cloned from them, the odds are that you would have suffered a full crop loss. This genetic diversity is much more pronounced in true breeding lines rather than F1 hybrids, but luckily this works with us as many of the available outdoor seed strains are in fact true breeding. One reason to choose direct seeding over simply starting plants from seed under lights and then transplanting them outside is that a plant's roots adjust to the conditions it grows in. For example, the roots of plants grown in a hydroponics set-up will not perform well if suddenly placed in soil. Plants started inside are spoiled, they are given water whenever they want it, never being forced to do anything for themselves. Then they are thrown outside one day, and left at the mercy of Mother Nature. Plants seeded outside develop roots suited to their exact soil and moisture conditions, never producing more plant mass than the roots can support. In most areas, directly seeded cannabis need never be watered throughout the season, though irrigation will of course increase yield, especially during flowering. Direct seeding also eliminates the carrying of suspicious and cumbersome boxes of plants into hard to reach areas, a major hassle of guerrilla growing. Choosing a Location Once you have a general idea of where you want to grow, a good place to visit is your local university, library or map supplier. Here you can find detailed topographical maps of the area, as well as soil maps indicating whether it is suitable for growing (many soil maps will indicate whether an area is farmable). Look for areas with some access to water in case of drought.
River valleys are ideal locations as good soil usually accumulates there, and there is also easy access to water. If planting in valleys, make sure not to choose a location at the very bottom, as this is where frost will settle. Preparing the Site Ideally, the site should be prepared the previous summer or fall, giving organic fertilizers time to break down into useable nutrients and eliminating hectic spring preparations. This is especially important when direct seeding, as turning the soil right before planting dries out the top layer, losing precious moisture needed for germination. Stay clear of blood and bone meal, as they attract bears, raccoons and a host of other creatures to the site, where they will dig up plants and destroy seedlings while searching for the source of the smell. Other things to avoid are perlite, vermiculite and rockwool, as they stand out like a sore thumb in the off-season, attracting the attention of potential thieves of next year's crop. Dig holes or trenches two to three feet deep, and at least two feet wide. A good mix of several organic fertilizers is the best bet, as different ingredients release fertilizers at different rates. Worm castings and sheep manure are good sources for nitrogen, as well as having excellent waterholding capacities. However, be careful not to overdo it with manure, as a large amount of the nitrogen is in the ammonium form, which will cause stretched, disease-susceptible plants in too large a dose. Phosphorous is best supplied with rock phosphate or bat guano, or a mixture of both. Follow recommended label rates, and again, be careful not to overdo. Although phosphorous is necessary for proper growth of cannabis, too much emphasis is placed on it in marijuana cultivation. Excess amounts lead to long internodes and acidified soil. Potassium can be added with the addition of muriate of potash, kelp meal or wood ash. Care is needed here as overdoing an application can raise your soil EC too high, burning your plants, especially delicate seedlings. This applies to kelp meal in particular, as it also contains large amounts of sodium. A final addition beneficial to most soils is dolomite or horticultural lime, which keeps your ph in check as well as supplying calcium and magnesium. If in doubt of your soil ph, simply mix some soil with a similar amount of distilled water, let it sit for thirty minutes, and then check with a ph meter or test strip. Anything between 5.5 and 7 will work fine for our purposes. In a commercial garden it might make sense to send a soil sample to be tested, especially if using the same spot for several years. This can be done at any agricultural university or a variety of businesses advertised in gardening magazines. Simply tell them it is for your vegetable garden and ask for organic recommendations. Sowing your seed This technique is best used by those who have access to a large amount of seeds. If you only have a pack of ten seeds do not even bother. A minimum sowing should be about 40 to 50 seeds for a small crop, as many will not germinate and about half will be male. For best results, soak seeds the night before in a covered glass of water, and then plant outside, pointed end up, at a spacing of about one seed for every four inches of area. Seeds can be planted anywhere from 1/2 to 1 1/4 inches deep depending on soil type � too shallow a planting will cause poor germination due to lack of moisture. Soil temperature is the major determining factor in deciding when to sow � it is best to wait until it
has reached 10-12�C (50-54�F). A soil thermometer can be obtained from many garden supply stores for about thirty dollars, or just use your judgement. Generally you want to plant about two weeks before you would normally transplant clones or seedlings. Small seedlings are actually much more cold-hardy than their adult counterparts, Indicas more so than Sativas due to the cold springs where they originate. Fungicides should not be needed provided the soil is properly warmed. If damping off does become a problem, drench with chamomile tea or no-damp. Thinning It is usually necessary to thin crowded or weak plants about a month after planting, but be careful not to pull too many before males indicate. Once all males are removed you want to be left with only vigorous plants, spaced wide enough to reach their maximum potential, yet close enough to make efficient use of your area. Outdoor threats Animals - Deer, rabbits and mice are the main menaces to a cannabis crop. Fences work, but can draw unwelcome attention to your garden. Luckily, the best defense is invisible � simply add scent to your garden that animals relate to predators. Fox or coyote urine can be bought from hunting supply stores (usually fall only), spray it around your plants on a regular basis and mice and rabbits will quickly vacate the area. Small pieces of soap placed or hung around the perimeter works well for repelling deer. It is important to scent the area well before you plant and a good idea to change brands of soap every three weeks so animals do not become accustomed to the scent. Flower Police - Police helicopters in most areas go up towards the end of August and are usually winding down by the third week of September. For the most part they simply act as common thieves, grabbing and running. Arrests are rare, but they have been known to stake out large crops. Always completely check out the surrounding area before entering a garden. Other Thieves - Not much you can do about these low-lifes other than tell no one about the garden, camouflage it well and leave no trails. Choosing a Strain Two things make direct seeding much easier: producing your own seed and growing a pure breeding strain. Luckily these go hand in hand, and many of today's outdoor strains are true breeding (although this is rarely advertised by seed companies). True breeding strains such as Durban, Early Girl or Holland's Hope are an advantage as the plants will all sex out and mature at the same time, minimizing trips to the garden. Once you have found a strain you like, stick with it and keep records, this way you will know from one year to the next when it is time to pull males or harvest. Other issues to look at are mold susceptibility, maturity dates, where it was bred and personal preference. Generally Sativas or strains with Ruderalis in them are less susceptible to molds because of their airier bud structure, while dense Indica-type floral clusters take a long time to dry after a rain, giving mold spores plenty of time to germinate. Maturity dates will vary depending on your latitude, most strains sold for outdoors generally finish from about September 5 to October 15. Keep in mind that even if you can have plants out into mid-October, the light level diminishes quickly after the
Once your males begin to show. If making an F1 hybrid. If you grow in the same region year after year your strain will gradually become acclimatized to your particular climate. . transplant them to a location well away from any sinsemilla crops where they can be grown on until pollen release. it is time to take control of your own seed supply. For outdoor strains it is best to pollinate about three weeks before harvest. Paper bags are good for collection of pollen. this will keep the gene pool somewhat diverse. both of which will adversely affect yields. Never underestimate the damage potential of a bag of pollen in an unseeded garden. When removing seed from ripened colas.second or third week of September. and heavy rains are much more likely. This works well for separating the seed as well as collecting a tasty sample of trichomes as reward for your hard work. Pollen may also be very carefully painted onto pistils with a small brush. these can then simply be tied tightly over female colas and left for three days to kill any unused pollen. with the fate of Dutch seed companies up in the air. This allows colas some time to fill out before pollination as well as providing seeds with plenty of time to ripen properly. Seed should be allowed to dry for at least a month then stored in a cool dry place with some dessicant until later use. dry bud until very dry then rub between your palms over a stretched silk screen. Try to select at least a few male plants and pollinate limbs on as many females as is convenient. simply choose your nicest male plant from one strain and cross it with a choice female of another. Providing they are vigorous and to your liking. Saving Your Seed Especially now.
Root your toot by DJ Short. happy buds. When one gets to know one's local products well and gets the mix down just right. About 10% of the finished product is made up of some kind of organic compost. Quite the contrary. granulated charcoal. My preference is for the most natural and organic substance available. The two main additives I use are worm castings and a bat/seabird guano mix. For soil used in the vegetative stage I like to add more worm castings than bat/seabird guano. soil is not meant to be a sterile medium. As with many other aspects of life. This is why I like to supplement any commercial soil I use. or bat/seabird guano or seaweed for that matter. Then worm castings are mixed in to about 15% of the finished product. Any rich green manure will do. bats. It is a large consumer market to be explored. produce the highest quality. washed sand and volcanic ash. or rich�composted plant matter. birds. Even the good local products tend to skimp on some of their ingredients. Unlike hydro systems. the resulting success becomes evident. . The final 5% is made up of a mixture of about equal parts trace mineral elements. the best soils are very much alive and thriving. Organic manic As for nutrients and supplements. It is up to the consumer to shop around in their area and get familiarized with the brands available in the local market. it don't make no difference. is another excellent source of food for plants. that do make clean products. To this mix a specific dry fertilizer may be added. either green or brown. 2001) The right soil and nutrients are key components to having phat. Superior soil It is possible to grow plants in specially prepared soil that will require no fertilizers in the water later on. The bulk of the mix � about 70% of the finished product � is made up of equal parts peat or sphagnum moss (I prefer coarse cut sphagnum moss) and perlite. among other areas. well. if the store clerk says anything to the affect of: "chemical or compost. As for where to find a reliable organic garden supply store.more bat/seabird guano than worm castings. there are many on the market. tastes and effects which cannot yet be reproduced in hydroponic systems. plants and seaweed. For soil used in the bud cycle it's the opposite . fish. The best indoor buds are soil grown. There are a number of such commercial and specialty brands of potting soil on the market today. Many fertilizers are made from industrial chemical sources and do not. photos by Barge (04 May. depending on if the soil will hold a plant in vegetative or flower cycle." then you are not in a reliable organic garden supply store. Most are not completely organic and may contain unwanted chemicals. These come from the more obvious natural sources such as worms. There are some smaller companies up and down the West Coast. practice makes perfect. in my opinion. Actual organic earth allows buds to produce flavours. The following is a simple recipe for a soil mix that has proven successful for me in the past. Green manure. The mixture then needs to be moistened. The perfectly moistened mix will hold together as clumps when squeezed but will not release any more than a drop or two of water. The more natural elements are by far preferred.
In contrast. add the bat/bird guano. worm castings and/or green manure to the water. The teas are considered fresh when made. They must be kept refrigerated until they are ready to be used. I like to end all nitrogen to the plant at least five to six weeks prior to harvest.Some people choose to feed their plants by spraying a nutrient solution onto the plant and having it absorbed through the foliage. Another method is to use the full amount of nutrient in a smaller amount of water to create a concentrate. There is no guarantee as to how much residue remains upon the foliage. Next. Finding the "perfect amount" to add will take some practice. The tea is applied the same way the water is during watering. Another great additive for the organic garden are beneficial nematodes. Nutrient knowledge The primary knowledge concerning fertilizer and nutrient (other than its source) are its N. I tend to avoid doing it due to the fact that the foliage is inevitably going to be smoked. Therefore. It is only necessary to use a small portion each time as they will reproduce profusely if properly introduced into the soil. The concentrate is then added to the full amount of water for watering. And I like to end all additives to the plant two to three weeks prior to harvest. when it is finally consumed. Beneficial nematodes are cultivated and sold live. bud and fruit growth in the bud or flower cycle. Prepare a container with enough water for a full watering. high phosphorous. N stands for Nitrogen. phosphorous and potassium (in that order) in the product. high potassium fertilizers promote lush flower. or some other porous medium. These teas are simple to make and easy to use. usually refrigerated. That is 30 parts N (nitrogen)-10 parts P (phosphorous)-10 parts K (potassium) is what is in a 30-10-10 fertilizer. P. or what exactly that residue may be. . and most are organic. This product helps the plant better metabolize its nutrient uptake. A B-vitamin hormone such as Super Thrive may be given up to the last week. The steeping takes anywhere from one day to several days. P stands for Phosphorous and K stands for Potassium. or 5-37-15. The nutrient is allowed to sit and "steep" in the water releasing the nutrients' water soluble properties. but sometimes green as with green manures). The tea will color the water similar to the shade of the nutrient (usually brown. living organisms are found at the more complete organic garden centers. low potassium fertilizers stimulate foliar and stem growth in the vegetative stage. low phosphorous. Most fertilizers have a number consisting of three numbers such as: 30-10-10. An additive I like to use with every fertilizing is a Bvitamin hormone supplement such as Super Thrive. especially during the flowering stage. These are the three main nutrients that plants need to thrive. Foliar feeding during the vegetative stage on the larger shade leaves that will be discarded is a relatively safe practice. low nitrogen. These numbers represent the ratio of nitrogen. This is the preferred method of adding organic nutrient during watering. It is important to use them immediately when they are ready. not to use the foliar feeding method on any part of the plant that is destined to be consumed. Though "foliar feeding" does work. and to not allow them to stand too long and stagnate. High nitrogen. Nematodes and tea Teas made from bat/bird guano and/or worm castings and/or green manure are an excellent source of organic nutrient. it is important. They usually come in a sponge. These microscopic. But I highly recommend a pure water flush for at least the last two watering times. and K levels.
while leaving the plant to thrive. the pots and medium that hold the roots of the plants. as well. Hydro Power Hydroponic medium is any sterile medium that will hold some water. not too cold) with or without the organic fertilizer. These are the basics when it comes to growing medium. tubing to carry the fluid to the plants. Now it is your turn. or be pumped. (tepid . Most systems also utilize a timer to automate this process. and are experimenting with many new nutrient products to achieve this end. nutrient and additives. wick and various other passive systems. but they are much less common. volcanic pumice. . mold. There are also ebb and flow. Gravel. That is. back into the reservoir. perlite. spores.A small portion of the nematode colony is simply introduced into the water. The entrepreneurs in the hydroponic industry are striving for the most natural hydro system. but once every month or two is sufficient. insect larvae. yet to sample a hydroponic grown product that surpassed a soil grown product in overall quality and flavor. rockwool. a pump (or pumps).not too hot. The water soluble nutrient is mixed with the water in the reservoir and delivered to the plants via the pump and tubing several times a day. when grown outdoors in the right environment the finished bud is usually superior to its identical twin grown indoors. PVC pipe. These systems consist of a reservoir. however. and bacteria. rock corn and sand are some examples of hydroponic mediums. Ideally. the nematodes do their thing by multiplying and consuming the things detrimental to the plant. I have. The incessant regimen tends to produce more of a bland finished product. Also. beneficial nematodes may be added as often as desired. Once in the soil. and some way for the water to flow. and soaked into the soil. This information was gained via experimentation on advice given to me in the past. Most hydroponic systems provide nutrients via the water that is passed over the rocks several times daily. The same can be said about indoor versus outdoor growth. the roots are regularly aerated and thus have excellent oxygen exposure. However. but allows water and air to pass through. Hydroponic systems are famous for producing the largest amount of foliage and fruit. such as fungus. The plant does not have to put as much energy into its roots and therefore has more energy for foliar and bud growth.
the heat will also increase mold. Soak this square pad in pure water and place the seeds in the center fold. However the seed shell does not come off of the sprout on its own. the sprout will grow root. . Though higher temperatures may hasten the sprouting time. I like to use small.the plants that develop from these stubborn sprouts are usually very desirable.Sprouting and planting by DJ Short (24 Aug. 2000) How to turn your seeds into healthy young plants Sprouting the seeds My preferred method of seed sprouting is the wet paper towel method. One more bit of advice concerns certain seeds which do not want to release from their shell. The method of planting into soil that I use is very basic and simple to understand. eventually causing its death if not properly dealt with. so be patient!) I have found the ideal temperature for sprouting most seeds to be around average room temperature (70-78�F or 21-25�C) . practice is the best guide for this skill. The seeds will sprout. the seeds crack open along their seam and send out a white root. I like to wait for the root to grow an inch or two before transplanting the sprouts to soil (while keeping the paper towel pad continuously moist with water until this time). These cups can be bought cheaply in bulk amounts at any discount or grocery store. Shelled sprouts I've found that these rare anomalies need help in shedding their shell or sheath in order to survive. especially if breeding is intended with the sprouts. with twelve layers both above and below. this can easily be done with an electric drill and a quarter to a three-eights inch drill bit. Take six sheets of white (nonprinted) paper towel and fold them to a roughly five by six inch square (about 24 layers thick). I like to bury them right up to the head of the plant so the head is right at the soil level. and it transplants fine. So keep a watchful eye open in a warmer situation. I have found the common turkey-baster to be of great value for this purpose. Stacking ten to twenty cups at a time will hasten this process. Again. Roots and planting pots At first. fungus and bacteria levels. When I do set the sprouts to soil. Under the shell is a thin sheath that may also need coaxing to get off. It takes a very gentle yet firm hand to remove the shell without damaging or killing the plant. So it is worth the effort. They will each need five or more drainage holes to be added to their bottom. The shell seems to harden on the head of the sprout. Keep the pad wet and the seeds will usually sprout in one to ten days. two to four inch pots. A great substitute for planting pots are the sixteen to twenty-four ounce disposable plastic drink cups. I would also like to point out that though this phenomenon is rare. It is important to gently water and feed the sprouts from this point on so as not to disturb the new roots too much. (On some occasions I've had seeds take up to two weeks to sprout.
Once the sprouts are adequately set in the moisture-saturated soil.The cup or pot is filled with the soil mix. using the chopstick if necessary. Into each hole more nutrient solution is added to fully soak the medium and prepare it for the sprout. New roots will sprout and grow from the soil-covered stem in a week or two. Grow flats and turkey basters I'll put anywhere from one to two dozen cups or pots per standard grow flat (or tray). it is time to moisten it. to help hasten its dry time. Be certain that the root tip is pointing down and not curved up in what is called a J root. The baster is handy for the first few waterings. the soil may be gently packed around the sprout stem to hold it firmly in place. This tip helps deal with the problem of spindly plants by giving them more base support during their early development. into the middle of the soil. as deep as the sprout roots are long. they will not need watering again until after the soil dries a little. It is also important not to leave any standing water in the grow flat. Larger operations may require some kind of pump and tubing device to aid in the watering. This again is gently and carefully done using the turkey baster (or whatever gentle watering device is available) as a watering tool. usually a high nitrogen variety for sprouts. J root may be fatal to the sprout. I like to use a standard chopstick to poke a hole. the sprouts will need to be watered. and the soil is gently yet thoroughly tapped and shaken down to fill all vacant spaces equally. Despite the fact that the soil is saturated to its maximum capacity. The soil level should end up to be two-thirds to three quarter of the cup or pot capacity. then any excess solution may be re-used until all of the soil is at its fullest saturation point. In other words. pre-made hole in the soil. Take one sprout at a time from the paper towel. Once the entire flat is ready. This is to allow for more soil to be added later as the main stem grows. The common turkey-baster is once again the best tool available to evenly soak all of the cups or pots. when a gentle touch is still beneficial. Carefully guide the root tip all the way down the hole. Just prior to this saturation point. Once the soil is sufficiently tapped down to at least two-thirds full. and transfer it to the moist. Hydro sprouting . Once the sprout is situated in its hole. The turkey baster is also useful for sucking the excess water from the bottom of the grow flat. this first watering helps stabilize the root in the soil. It is after this time that more soil may be added to help give the sprout more stability and root room. I'll fill the appropriate sized bucket or container with the water/nutrient mix. handling it as gently as possible by the stem just below the sprout head. If the grow flat and all of the pots are relatively clean. This step also promotes and stimulates adequate root growth. Water and soil Next. the healthy sprouts will stretch and grow up over the top of the cup or pot. it's time to begin the planting process. In one to two weeks. the root is running down the hole and the sprout head is above and as near to the soil level as possible. there should be an adequate space between the top of the soil and the top of the cup or pot. Next.
The semidry rootwad is placed firmly into the saturated fresh medium. The seeds will sprout and root automatically in this porous and nutrient-rich medium. the fresh transplant is completely watered to its saturation point. and the loose soil is gently packed into place throughout. I like to gently shake the soil fully into place and level the soil top by hand. The medium in the larger container should be saturated to its maximum density with nutrient-rich water. The pellet is placed in a larger rockwool cube or gravel medium and the roots grow quickly into the new material. Tying the plants up to stakes will be the only way to deal with stretched or spindly growth in the hydroponic system. Happy growing! . the fresh medium will cover the old soil level by a bit. weak stemmed plants up. When the white root wad is becoming entwined. New roots will quickly and eagerly find their way into the fresh. As with the original planting. Hydro transplanting is also quite simple. I like to transplant when the root system is semi-dry. a day or two before a usual watering. new medium. Special care needs to be taken when transplanting into larger containers to avoid as much trauma as possible. Transplant time Transplanting becomes necessary when the roots outgrow the medium. such as stakes or poles to hold the top-heavy. semi-moist medium. Hydro systems often need extra supports.Hydroponic sprouting is as simple as placing a seed in a rockwool cube or fiber pellet and keeping it moist. This is evident by checking one or two of the average plants roots. and accompanying growth will develop in the plant. growing among itself and beginning to turn brown. it is time to transplant. and the rest of the space in the larger pot is filled with fresh. Ideally.
you may consider dropping temperature down to 17-19�C for the final week or two. This final temperature change is not always feasible and can be omitted. the closer your day and night temperatures. tight internodes tight internodes Temperature control The easiest and most under-used way to control internodal stretch is temperature control. but a larger factor is the increased difference between day and night temperatures. you are costing yourself in overall weight and harvest. especially with "purple" varieties. so you must do everything you can to prevent your room getting too hot (run lights at night. An ideal temperature range is 24-25�C when the lights are on. photos by Barge (25 Apr. It is during the first 2-3 weeks of the flower cycle that most strains begin to lengthen internodes. air conditioners. The temperature technique is most effective under a 12/12 light regime. which is ideal as this is when cannabis stretches the most. more efficient buds. as this is where the plant is happiest. Maximum temperatures should ideally never rise above 26�C. your plants begin to stretch? Part of this problem may lie in an overall hotter grow-room. Plant internodal length is directly related to the difference between day and night temperatures � the warmer your day cycle is as compared to your night cycle. and max/min type thermometers are ideal for tracking temperatures. After this 2-3 week window we need to drop the night temperature back down to 22�C. long internodes long internodes As floral development begins we need to keep in mind that the total size of your buds is determined largely by average daily temperature. and 22�C when the lights are off. The opposite also holds true. . the shorter your internodes will be. This drop in temperature triggers anthocyanin production. Ever notice how as the warmer summer months approach. provided it does not exceed optimal. etc). making it a very important time to control temperature. as this is when the framework for future colas is built. the greater your internode length will be.Control your cannabis by DMT. Once your buds have reached optimal size and and you have begun the flushing period. 2000) Fine-tuning temperature and water for maximum quantity and quality. Why waste light and electricity growing stem? Stretched-out plants are the bane of indoor growers. use exhaust fans. There are several ways to reduce internodal length and thus grow denser. which intensifies the colour of the floral clusters and makes for a showier bud. When the light cycle is brought to 12/12 we will raise the night temperature to the daytime level of 24-25�C. Lets look at putting this to play in your grow room. So if you are letting your day temperatures drop below 24�C or your night drop below 22�C. Space heaters on timers work well for this.
25 grams. (Try this formula if you're interested: calcium nitrate 7 grams. examples of long internodes (closeup) examples of long internodes (closeup) Hydroponic tomato growers sometimes will grow their transplants at extremely high EC's (up to 6 EC!) in order to get really nice stocky production plants. Be sure to bring your EC back down once you enter floral stage.095 grams. micromix . There is also the chlorosis if this is done for too long. I would not recommend going above 3 or 4 EC. as too much nitrate at this high an EC will easily damage a plant.8. Try growing one of your plants using straight water for a week or so. Please note that when doing this they use special nutrient formulas designed for this purpose. Some things you will notice while using this technique are a change in the leaf angle. Slowly raise your EC during veg stage. but different strains have different preferences. you will see the internode length stretch dramatically compared to the ones on a regular fertilizer regime. Raising the salt level in the medium closer to that which is in the roots limits the water availability just the same as if we had provided less water. (EC measures the level of fertilizer salts in the water. By allowing the EC to drop below ideal during this stage we are wasting valuable space growing stem instead of bud. Neither of these symptoms is nutrient related and will fix themselves when the temperature is changed back. most of which have potassium to nitrogen ratios of 4:1. or against you by limiting bud growth. By limiting the amount of water available to a plant you limit the expansion of cells. Both the amount of water you give your plants and the EC at which you grow them control the uptake of water. much higher than normal. This is experimental! Do not try on all of your plants at once until you are sure your strain can handle it.For extreme height control you may even use warmer night temperature than day. leaf chlorosis (yellowing) leaf chlorosis (yellowing) Moisture and conductivity Whether you're growing hydro or in soil. so when the medium's level of salt rises above the roots'. potassium nitrate 0. mono potassium phosphate 2. the ability of a plant to uptake water and nutrients from the growth medium. potassium sulphate 9. Most marijuana strains are happiest when grown at an EC of between 1. A plant's roots act much like a pump. but be very careful when running settings like this.02 grams. upwards during warm days and downwards during warm nights.2 gram. In order for this to work there must be a larger concentration of fertilizer salts in the plant's roots than in the soil or hydroponic solution. This can work for you by keeping your internodes close together. Both of these factors are controlling the same thing. as even a zero difference between night and day temperatures will lead to leaf chlorosis (yellowing) after 2-3 weeks. the electrical conductivity (EC) and moisture of your medium are two key elements that should be manipulated to meet your needs. using osmotic pressure to move water into the plant. by the time .) A plant grows by first dividing cells then expanding them. and in order to do this it requires water. it is usually called "six pack formula". magnesium sulphate 5 grams. During the vegetative stage we want our plants to form very tight internodes. All of these ingredients should be available at your local hydroponics store. especially under artificial lighting. the plant will wilt.5 and 1.
) Maintain this level of moisture into the first 14 to 20 days of 12/12 to minimize internode stretch. A frequent mistake marijuana growers make is over-emphasizing the need for a plant grown in soil to dry out completely between waterings. what we need to try and avoid is EC's climbing much above what we want and plants going for long periods with very low EC's. causing the EC to double or more. examples of tight internodes (closeup) examples of tight internodes (closeup) To test your soil.5-1. When growing hydroponically. Mix the soil with 2 equal parts distilled water and let sit for 20 minutes. the only way of manipulating water availability is with the EC.8 and then dries out completely the amount of salt remains the same.) Try not to change the EC too quickly as a sharp drop can cause root damage. Many growers are under the mistaken impression that the EC and pH of their nutrient solution remains the same when applied to the soil. As a general rule.tufts of pistils are visible you want to be at your ideal EC of 1. Keep in mind that if the soil has an EC of 1. while in soil we may also use the moisture level of the medium to the same ends. This in not the case. as the sudden change in salt level will harm the roots. Cannabis does like dry feet but this simply means that the root zone must not be kept extremely wet at all times.4 (this takes into account the dilution and the pore space factor) this will give you an accurate picture of the EC the roots are actually being exposed to. (Unless of course you are using the high EC method described above. in this case you must not let your soil get too dry because of the increased fertilizer level you will create. Control your cannabis! .8. The pH should also be checked at this time. take a sample from the center of the root zone at the side of the pot (don't worry the torn roots will be fine). and you must test the soil in order to have a true picture. as will having too high an EC in the medium. creating a shorter noded plant structure capable of creating a dense bud cluster in the floral stage. Once the time is up take an EC reading and multiply this number by 2. It is not feasible in soil to maintain an exact EC at all times. Growing marijuana too dry during this stage will adversely affect your overall yield. In these times of government oppression we must make the most efficient use of available growing space in order to produce the copious amounts of cannabis necessary to overflow the boundaries placed upon us. As soon as early flowering begins you need to increase soil moisture to a nice evenly moist (not soaked) level to maximize bud expansion. This also goes during your final flushing period when you want to eliminate all fertilizer from the medium � lower the EC over a couple of days. during the vegetative stage you should keep your plants a little on the drier side as this will restrict cell elongation.
These problems must be addressed immediately upon finding them. The difficulty is the many variables related to the problem. It doesn't involve mysticism by any means. then you have the optimum mix. Better still is to take the necessary precautions to insure that they don't begin. and it will go fine. If you use the basic soil mix I recommend. This may seem obvious. Learning to condition the soil you are working with is the first step to success. The optimum mix Soil mediums. and the nutrient solution will need to be changed at least once every two to three weeks. This is to help eliminate the nemesis to all hydro systems: algae. One of the simplest ways to increase the quantity of your harvest while maintaining quality is knowing the right times to water and feed. are capable of blocking the aerobic quality of the hydro medium and suffocating the plant via its roots. and therefore releases its moisture quicker. depending on the amount and type of medium. eliminating the need for watering altogether. are the trickiest to learn to deal with. In both types of hydro systems. This can be done by the disciplined hand. it may be heavy or light. hands-on contact with the plants. Different brands have different ingredients (and even the same brand may have different ingredients at different times). the amount of light. heat and ventilation in the room. fungus and bacteria. especially organic varieties. When the root medium is heavy with moisture. but a timer and pump will eliminate the need. Depending on the "mix" of your soil.Feed your head-stash by DJ Short (27 Oct. where equal parts of perlite and coarse cut sphagnum moss make up about 70% of the overall mix. Passive hydro systems allow the roots of the plant to reach the reservoir. the reservoirs usually need to be topped off regularly. Hydro systems Hydroponic systems are usually automated and should have the simplest schedule to satisfy. Active hydro systems merely need the nutrient solution passed over the medium three or four times a day. This mix seems to be the . Regard the process as an ongoing education. As with any other aspect of this industry. it needs water. A lighter soil is generally more perlite or vermiculite. Algae can clog hydroponic medium and its tubing. but learning to zero in on the optimum times to feed and water is dependent on this simple fact. how recently they were planted or transplanted. it doesn't. Different needs will present themselves in regard to feeding and watering times. is of utmost importance. Heavy soil is generally more moss than perlite and holds water longer. but it does require a care and attention to learn the needs of your plants. along with other pests such as mold. and close attention to them. the size of the plants. Algae. and other factors such as humidity and air pressure. When the plant is dry and thirsty. 2000) Food and water are two critical components to a successful garden.
An entire grow room may be water-proofed as well. there is one more important tip to best maintain the proper watering schedule for your plants. a swimming pool liner or landscaping pond liner is laid over the area and over the edges of the wood frame. such as a solid grow tray or a kiddie pool. lay out a layer of 2-inch thick Styrofoam insulation panels larger than the intended pool. Finally. others may be fine for a couple of days. It takes the plants anywhere from an hour to a few hours to soak up all of the moisture that they need. it would be nearly impossible to judge exactly how much water these plants would consume in any given watering. or 16 to 24 ounce cups) may need watering as often as daily. Bottom feeding After getting the soil mix down and learning the right watering time by the dryness. The plant will suck its bucket of medium dry and then begin to wilt. watering many plants at once. The trick is in realizing when the plant is going to wilt. This is done by physically lifting the plant container and judging its weight. This method requires that the buckets be placed within the confines of a watertight container. Only experience can reveal what exactly the weight of the dry pot is. and watering it the day prior. available on the market these days. Individual mini-trays may be used for each individual container. Dry weight Vegetating plants in small containers (two to four inch pots. If a plant does happen to wilt due to drying out. Plants in larger containers (2 gallon and up) may go anywhere from three to six days between watering. a basic wood frame is constructed to the exact size of the desired pool on top of the Styrofoam. but a minor wilt is by no means fatal to the plant. but this causes much more tedium during watering. First. after being fitted to the space.perfect blend for a regulated watering schedule. Next. I've seen wilted plants revived within twenty minutes when relieved of their thirst. The nutrient solution is then dumped or pumped right into the tray. Less is more The main focus of feeding should be the concentration and mix of fertilizers in the solution. the garden needs to be checked a few hours after watering to see if the plants need more. However. I cannot . from large to small and of varying styles and sturdiness. We want to avoid wilting as much as possible. but because it serves the nutrient and solution to the outside-bottom of the medium container. or weight. I call this tip the bottom feeder method. Plant containers may be placed directly in the pool and watered all at once. The solution is then sucked up by the roots through the holes in the bottom of the buckets. Please note that although this method allows the greatest ease of watering a large number of plants. check the weight of its bucket to see what too far is. Not merely because the method was perfected in a white-trash trailer park. of the medium container. Some may hold a dozen small plants while others may hold twenty or thirty large plants. wilting can also contribute to stunting. or if the excess solution needs to be removed from the pool. Therefore. There are a number of trays.
There are organic soil additives on the market that eliminate the need for any extra fertilizer additives in the water.emphasize enough that "less is more" when it comes to fertilizing plants. The best organic substances I've found are bat and seabird guano and pure worm castings. then only a quarter the recommended amount of each is needed to make the final concentration truly half strength. Most fertilizer companies print their maximum allowed amounts for mixing. or they may harden and solidify. The leaves should stretch up and out to receive the light. So once the right soil mix is obtained then water alone will suffice. If signs of overfertilization appear. small. It is generally recommended to use less fertilizer than the instructions call for. The plants should look like they are thriving if they are properly fed. an overfertilized plant will look unhealthy and deeply in need. then fertilizer may be added during each watering (except. That is. . The leaves may become curled. at worst. but this same logic should be applied to phosphorous and potassium concentrations as well. If too little fertilizer is used the only problem will be a slightly smaller yield. and the old growth should last as long as possible. then even a smaller ratio of each is needed. Many of these fertilizer additives are made up of harsh petrochemicals. Plants grown using this method produce some of the most outstanding flavors and desirable palate and head. New growth should be obvious daily. healthy glow. Fossilized bat and bird guano come in a powder form. Underfertilized plants will merely be slow or. Nitrogen is the most commonly abused fertilizer additive. while pure worm castings are like a very rich manure. the last few weeks of pure water flushes). When the fertilizer concentration is low enough. or water with a B-vitamin supplement to help the plant best metabolize the nutrients available to it. If two or more nitrogen fertilizers are used during the same feeding. Too much fertilizer. but overfertilized plants may look burned or splotchy. Both may be added to soil to enhance its nutrient level. For one or two waterings flush the plants with water only. it may be necessary to dilute the concentration with pure water. of course. and see if the situation improves. This is especially true if one is mixing different nitrogen fertilizers. All in all. The stems may stretch and turn dark. is liable to ruin the entire crop. stunting growth. Their color should be bright and consistent with a shiny. however. with unnatural looking colors from bright yellow to dusty brown. I like to use half of what the directions call for. Most indoor plants do not remain in the same container for any longer than two months. if two nitrogen fertilizers are mixed together during one feeding.
Once the plant has "proven itself worthy" of re-greening. it is removed from the bud room and harvested down to above the lower. the plant is harvested. Some strains are more photo-receptive than others. to re-green. This is very important information for anyone seriously interested in breeding plants. the wise pharmer will clone all potentially desirable plants while they are in the veggie stage. Sometimes all that is left at the bottom of the plant are buds. This technique is called the "re-green" method. even when constantly under light. One of the main tricks to the re-green method is to begin the process as early as possible. If a plant is more photo-receptive and easily re-vegetates. Photo-receptivity refers to the way in which a plant is destined to respond to a light schedule. That is. meaning that they will respond more readily to changes in light-cycle timing. but the lower branches and nodes are left for the new growth to (hopefully) rejuvenate from. Doing the re-green The only preparation for the re-green process is to be sure to leave a few of the lower branch and leaf nodes of the plant intact during harvesting. An important process to be learned by the serious pot horticulturist is the revitalization of a budded and mature plant back to its vegetative state. 2000) Rejuvinating plants will bring back your best buds. simply leave the lowest healthy looking set of buds and harvest all above that point. Although sometimes this doesn't happen or the clone attempt may fail. this isn't really why you should be using the re-green method. then it will more than likely clone well and grow more vigorously than one that does not. It is the more photo-receptive strains that we want to focus on when attempting the re-green method. while extremely non-photoreceptive plants will flower regardless of light cycle. these non-photo-receptive varieties are difficult. many Sativas may take up to nine or more weeks in the flowering cycle indoors to fully express their individual desirability. The catch here is that it will take a certain amount of time in order to determine the desirability of a given plant. This is fine. The usual reason to re-green is to continue the existence of a highly desirable plant. Less photo-receptive strains become "stuck" in their bud or flower cycle. By desirability I am referring to the overall quality of the finished product � how good does it taste? Look? Smell? Feel? How good is the finished product? Once a plant has declared its overall finished product desirability. Generally speaking. So the re-green method is capable of helping to determine which of your potential breeding and cloning stock will be the most productive.Re-green your garden by DJ Short (25 Apr. intact branch and leaf nodes. most Indica varieties will almost fully express their desirability by the sixth week in the flowering cycle indoors (11 to 13 hours of light per 24 hours). if not impossible. (Note that this early-harvested bud can . However. The re-green technique is most useful in determining which of your desirable plants are the most photoreceptive. it is time to begin the process. Although useful for guerrilla outdoor gardening when you want the plants to mature early. However.
This stage consists of nurturing the fresh growth and eventually pruning away the old growth. then transplanting to a larger pot may be in order. A "surgeon's hand" with a pair of precision scissors is most definitely an advantage at this stage.) As the plant matures through the flowering cycle. branches or buds. the faster and more completely a plant expresses this process. or "fingers". The regreener plant is kept on a high nitrogen fertilizer all the way through this process. As the new shoots develop. low potassium and phosphorous fertilizer is required to inspire fresh growth. while others may take a month or more to show new growth. worthy of connoisseur appreciation!) The remaining stump with a few nodes attached will need to be moved to a separate space. consisting of fluorescent lights set for a vegetative cycle (18 or more hours of light per 24 hours). a high nitrogen. As space demands increase. If the plant was in a smaller container (two gallon or less) and is showing signs of root bind. More fingers Generally speaking. Once the highly desirable candidate plant has declared its re-green ability by sending out fresh green growth. it is time for the next stage in the process. the more photoreceptive it is. As in the veggie cycle. In time the new shoots will grow to dominate the remaining plant. Usually the dictates of space will determine how long one will want to attempt the process for each individual plant. nine. per leaf decrease in number. The remaining nodes. eleven or more leaflets-per-leaf. Others will never rejuvenate at all. stretching beyond the bud or leaf node that contains it. By the time the plant is back to showing at least five leaflets-per-leaf. the plant is not considered rejuvenated until at least five leaflets per leaf are apparent. the re-green shoots will probably be ready for . the number of leaflets-per-leaf decreases from nine to seven to five to three and finally to one leaflet per leaf on the fully mature plant. and the leaflet-per-leaf ratio increases as the new leaf sets present themselves. root bind. If the candidate plant is going to rejuvenate. Some Sativa may have leaves with as many as 13 or more leaflets-per-leaf. Either way. There is however. leaves. (As a general rule of thumb. the new growth will sprout from within one of the leftover nodes. the less desirable and slower re-greener plants will need to be thinned out accordingly. from one to three to five and so on. I have seen some plants declare rejuvenation within a couple of days. the next consideration involves increasing the plant's nitrogen uptake. A healthy vegetive plant may have seven. Experienced pharmers know that as a plant matures through its flowering cycle the number of leaflets. the better. During the successful re-green process this factor reverses itself. another criteria that helps to fully determine a given plant's photoreceptivity � its ability to fully return to a vegetive stage. then the same container may work fine. Sativa plants are capable of producing more leaflets-per-leaf than Indica. or near. Extra care needs to be practiced as these new shoots may be very delicate and fragile. In my opinion. The more leaflets-per-leaf that can be coaxed from the plant before cloning. buds and/or branches need to be as close to the fluorescent bulb as possible without touching the bulb. the old and matured bud and leaf material are cleared and trimmed from around it. whereas most Indica will never have more than five or seven. But if the plant's container is large enough and the plant does not appear to be suffering from. All attention is focused on the fresh growth making certain that this growth has the best access to the light.provide an excellent and somewhat rare finished product that usually exhibits a more "head" or "psychedelic" experience.
The "mother" plant. most highly photoreceptive plants make excellent clone-producing mothers. As long as the proper conditions for the plants' health are maintained. or may be returned to the bud room to flower again. At this point it is important that the shoot or shoots be developed enough to both produce a successful clone. As with so many other aspects of this hobby. and leave enough rejuvenated material on the regreened "mother" to continue growth (and keep the mother alive). patience is indeed a virtue.cloning. Generally speaking. any standard or desired cloning procedure will work. the plants will yield their superior productivity. Cloning the shoots Once the rejuvenated plant has produced adequate shoots that have successfully returned to a vegetive state. . or any of its rooted clones. it is time to consider cloning of the shoots. may be maintained to act as a clone producer. Once a shoot is satisfactory for cutting. due to their productive ability. To satisfy both of these ends it is always best to wait until the re-green shoots are large and healthy enough. for that matter.
The perfect temperature would be somewhere between 24-29�C (75-85�F). down and around the room. Using the "hot air rises. The fact that warm air rises and cool air sinks works to our advantage in this case. Thermometers are cheap and accurate enough for our purposes. one can figure out the right solution. focussed specifically on the root systems. Proper research and smart shopping will net the best purchases. cool air drops" rule. but not for any longer than a half hour or so. Proper aeration of organic based soils is crucial in high temp/humidity areas. air circulation and temperature control. any time the temperature exceeds 32�C (90�F). Roots and Aeration The main area of concern involving temperature are the roots of the plants. Most fans can be purchased at the average home improvement store. or fans. An important aspect to consider when growing plants indoors is proper ventilation. If necessary. or if the humidity gets too high. Both come in a seeming endless variety of shapes and sizes. the plants end up under the larger lights by the flowering cycle. The Perfect Temperature Though sense of feel is adequate to gauge the "perfect climate" for a given plant. I usually employ several thermometers in different areas in and around the grow room. Also. in very small spaces. Peaks of 38�C (100�F) are allowable for most strains. and so they're usually large enough to help shade and cool their root areas. Generally speaking. . some rooms build up sufficient heat to require a separate circulating fan. There are also neat little "muffin" fans that can be used for many things such as light-hood venting and passive ventilation systems. while common house fans move the air up. store the reservoir outside of or below the grow room. This practice becomes especially necessary when working with lights over 400 watts. In hydroponic systems make sure that the nutrient water temp is below 21�C (70�F). squirrel-cage fans move air either in and/or out of the room. are the tips here � add more to the soil if need be. the roots should be kept at as constant a temperature below 21�C and above 10�C (70-50�F) as possible. Still. Somewhere between 32-35�C (90-95�F) is the absolute highest room temperature your plants would care to tolerate. photos by Jorge Cervantes (01 Jul. The two most common types of fan are the squirrel-cage and what I call the "common house fan" (box or oscillating fans). happy plants.Let them breathe! by DJ Short. Careful planning will help avoid costly mistakes. A soil thermometer may be a wise investment. Ideally. Perlite and vermiculite. there is no real substitute for a thermometer and humidity gauge. Squirrel Cage and House Fans There are many different types of fans and air movers available on the market. 1998) Proper ventilation and air circulation are essential to growing healthy. And only above the root level.
That is. and turn off at another.A passive ventilation system is one that moves air either in out of room (not both). it would take an optimally running 100 CFM fan 6. could be installed in the power line of the larger fans to adjust the fan speed. as with the common household thermostat. or 640 cubic feet of air. and turn them off if the temperature dropped below 21�C (70�F). This is the simplest of vent systems and works quite well.4 minutes to fully circulate the air in that room. There are wall-mounted styles available as well. or a "volume control". These fans tend to keep anaerobic molds down by constantly freshening any potentially stagnant air. Box fans are self explanatory. Automation The ideal ventilation system utilizes automation in the form of thermostats and regulators. Box and Oscillating Common summer house fans also come in a wide array of types and sizes. Experimentation will yield the most efficient uses for these devices. This would give further aid in the specific control of air volume and ventilation. Oscillating fans are perhaps the most efficient devices for circulating air in a room. some relatively inexpensive. Choosing the correct squirrel-cage fan is part of the trick to success. Squirrel Cages The squirrel-cage fan is the most popular fan for moving large volumes of air into or out of a room or rooms. It is a simple step further in this type of system to add an oscillating fan or two on the floor. high-tech grow shop will have several types of thermostats available in a variety of systems. Generally speaking. most fans move a little less than their rated CFM due to intake resistance or a dirty fan cage. The most common being the box and the oscillating. dry air outside of the grow room. blowing out. would cause the fans to turn on at a certain temp. to help circulate the cooler air up and around the plants. A fan with a rating of 100 CFM is able to move 100 cubic feet of air per minute. They can be used in a variety of ways. A common placement for this fan is inside of the room. Measuring Air Movement Squrrel cage fans are rated by their volume of air movement in cubic feet per minute or CFM. a sensor would turn on the fans on at around 30�C (86�F). The gentle back and forth sway of the fan is very beneficial for the developing plants. The room is not sealed and so air exchange is allowed free movement from inside and outside the room. up high. A well-stocked. Therefore. This will help move the hot air out. pointing at any angle up. Home improvement centres carry a large array of various types and styles of airmoving fans. depending on the innovation and imagination of the user. A thermostat. A room that is eight by ten feet and eight feet tall holds 8 X 10 X 8. This method is what is used to stimulate the passive intake of cool air with vent holes cut in the floor or lower walls to access the cooler areas outside of the room. Potentiometers. Other hardware such as dryer-vent tubing or muffin fans may be used to best access the cool. . Bigger fans usually will work more efficiently.
A warning needs to be expressed concerning the cheaper, discount-store, oscillating fans (or any cheap fan for that matter) that have a tendency to burn out after a period of time. Some of these products are potentially dangerous if left plugged in and turned on after they burn out. Therefore, it is a wise idea to check one's fans (and all electric devices and equipment for that matter) on a regular basis as often as possible. Noise Concerns Another fan consideration is noise. Some fans, especially the squirrel cage, may be a bit too noisy for a given situation. There are higher quality fans available that do run more quietly � expect to pay more, of course. It also helps to mount the fan directly to a main stud or support, by at least two of its support holes, and preferably more. Rubber dampers and gaskets can be easily made and used on the support holes or around the overall mounting surface. Keep the fan's bearings sufficiently lubricated as well. High Humidity Humidity is another factor that influences the overall quality and quantity of a crop. Generally speaking, high humidity (over 80 or 90%) is bad. It inhibits plant transpiration and ultimately stunts growth. Mold and fungus love high humidity as well. Note that warmer air holds more moisture than cooler air. There are a few simple practices to help reduce humidity. First and foremost, keep the room as dry as possible. When watering, use just as much as the plants need. Pump, siphon or mop up any remaining water and remove it from the room. Keeping the room clean also helps. Moisture likes to hide and store itself in material such as dead leaves, spilled dirt or any garbage. Therefore, keeping the room clean and free of debris will help keep moisture and organisms such as mold, fungus and bacteria down. Temperature and moisture levels directly affect the plant's ability to metabolize nutrients and supplements such as fertilizer and carbon dioxide. If these practices fail to lower humidity enough, the only solution may be a de-humidifier. However, de-humidifiers are expensive, consume a large amount of electricity and produce heat. These factors will need to be considered in choosing whether or not to employ one. Ventilation and Circulation are Essential Proper ventilation and air circulation are essential to maintaining a healthy indoor grow environment. The basic rule of thumb is to move the warm, moist air out and to move the cool, dry air in and around the plants and their roots. Many various types of fans and devices are available to achieve this goal. Careful planning, basic research and smart shopping will acquire all that one needs to keep it cool and dry, and experimentation will fine tune the system to provide the most perfect indoor environment possible.
DJ Short is the breeder of the famed Flo and Blueberry strains. He welcomes feedback and questions, especially relating to the cultivation of those varieties. He can be contacted through Cannabis Culture.
CO2 for you by DJ Short (27 Dec, 2000) Carbon Dioxide is an excellent way to increase your bud bounty. Carbon dioxide (CO2) generators are perhaps the single most powerful increasers of plant production. During the daylight hours plants breathe in and use CO2 much the same way we animals metabolize oxygen. By adding CO2 to the air of the grow room we are capable of greatly stimulating plant growth and vigor. Overexposure to CO2 by humans is very capable of proving fatal. Therefore, also remember that monitoring of the air with a CO2 or gas detection device is mandatory when using a commercial CO2 distribution system. There are two main types of commercial CO2 delivery systems, bottled and propane generators. Bottled CO2 The bottled CO2 system delivers pure CO2 via a tank that is rented or bought and refilled when empty at any bottled gas distributor or grow shop. The purchases of a regulator and tubing, along with a specialized timer, are necessary to complete the system. The timer opens the regulator to dispense the gas that is delivered to the room among the plants via the tubing (or whatever duct system is chosen for its delivery). The timer usually is on for brief periods of a few seconds per minute, hence the need for the specialized timer. The bottled systems are relatively efficient and once set up, easy to use. When used in conjunction with some kind of CO2 metering device, to monitor the amount of CO2 in the air, the system is relatively safe. The main drawback is having to deal with filling the heavy, bulky tank when needed. The initial expense is a bit of a sticker shock as well. Propane generator Propane generators of CO2 have been gaining popularity since their introduction to the industry some time ago. Bottled propane is connected to a device that burns the gas, slowly and evenly, to produce CO2. The device is usually a box that will hang in the room and is connected to the propane bottle via the appropriate tubing and coupling. It is possible to time and regulate most propane generators to efficiently produce CO2 gas when needed. These devices are usually much simpler and less expensive than the bottled CO2 systems. Propane is also easily available in most places. There are, however, a few dangers to the propane generator that need to be addressed. First of all, the device utilizes a small flame for CO2 production. Special care needs to be taken whenever dealing with fire, and necessary precautions including location of the device need to be made prior to operation. second, this flame will produce some heat and humidity. The humidity is in the form of water vapor, the other by-product of the process. Proper venting and air circulation will help minimize these factors. As with the bottled system, monitoring the amount of CO2 in the air will be necessary to regulate the proper and safe amount of the gas delivered to the room. Air circulation
It is also very inexpensive to configure and maintain. any form of brewing (beer production) or fermenting (wine making) produces CO2. CO2 is heavier than air) to the grow room will suffice. All such appliances produce CO2. blowing into the room. This system uses water. If the appliance (furnace. hot water heater. To this add about a half gallon of water. a word needs to be said about the delivery system and air circulation in the room. Finally. I like to use one-gallon plastic jugs due to their size and availability. shake the jug to thoroughly mix the contents. This way the gas passes by the leaves of the plants on its way down. etc. Small and simple For those of you running smaller systems such as cupboard. In a day or two the yeast will begin to grow and CO2 gas will be a by-product in the jug. There are a number of books and manuals on the market today that deal with the specifics and �how to�s� of carbon dioxide production for commercial (and home) use. sugar and yeast mixed together in a jug. A simple rule of thumb is: blue flame = CO2 or what we want. Oscillating fans placed on the floor with their fan pointing up (or any upward movement of air from the floor) is also recommended to best circulate the CO2 among the leaves of the plants. there is a simple CO2 system that is easy to make and use. Remember. too much CO2 around the roots may actually suffocate the plants. Therefore. �growstores� selling the devices offer plenty of advice and/or literature pertaining to the specifics of their products. A muffin fan placed on the room end of the tube. .) is anywhere near the grow room. Also. when properly functioning. I have found this system to be more than adequate and perfectly safe for smaller grow spaces (twenty square feet or less). Once a day. So be wary of these facts and circulate the air well. CO2 production for larger scale operations requires a certain amount of knowledge unobtainable by any other means than an education. stove. the shaking of the contents will produce a gaseous eruption through the hole in the lid. then a simple duct system of dryer vent tubing running from the bottom of the appliance (remember. would efficiently move the gas. as well. that is. Poke a small hole in the lid and replace it on top of the jug. I highly recommend that one research thoroughly before one purchases and uses a system. On its own. So a home brew kit or home wine making system could also be used to add CO2 gas to the grow room air. closet or �box� systems. The roots of the plants DO NOT like CO2.Because CO2 is a gas that is heavier than air. The mix will need to be changed or refreshed every two to three weeks. via some form of tube or duct or by hanging the propane generator up high. Mix until the sugar is dissolved and add a little bit of active yeast. deadly poisonous! It is merely a question of how to get the CO2 gas from the appliance to the grow room. or as often as possible. Once the yeast begins to grow. Therefore. especially those with a pilot light. the more times the jug is shaken. The daily shaking stimulates the mix to produce a surge of CO2 gas. Put about five or six cups of sugar in a clean one-gallon plastic jug. Recycled CO2 A source of recycled CO2 may be found in any natural gas or propane appliance. the more surges of CO2 that will erupt into the room. Generally speaking it is best to introduce the gas up higher in the room. In fact. allowing them to absorb as much as possible. yellow flame = CO or carbon monoxide. bottle or jar. the device will slowly produce CO2 as long as there is enough sugar in the mix and the yeast stays active.
CO2 can be a safe and easy way to increase the yield of your garden. .Remember to be very careful not to overdo the CO2 and let the gas fill your house. If this happens then it could suffocate you in your sleep! But properly used.
the main focus of the hydroponic industry is that of production. If you want to grow some of the finest herb on the planet. This means that only pure water. the fact is also that many people simply cannot tell the difference between hydro and organic products. especially when the grower wants only one crop and the absolutely highest yield. Simply put. A higher ratio of resin to fibre generally indicates the superior quality and chemical composition of the resin. It has been my experience that the more one increases the fibre production and overall size of a given plant. This will only slightly decrease production. in order to maintain potency while increasing production. Bio vs Hydro The purpose of this article is to help guide you in understanding the basic needs of these and other fragrant varieties. while greatly increasing the quality of the finished product. then the True Fragrant varieties of cannabis. Granted. The last time I used any seed stock outside of my own was in 1982. Blue Velvet and Flo. I speak from experience. and the greater potency of the product.Grow organic by DJ Short (29 Dec. compared to the overall fibre production of the plant. delicious pot on the planet. the more one decreases this ratio and. use organic nutrients and flush your buds. are an excellent place to start. whereas my focus is on quality. There are those in the hydroponic industry who will argue that certain hydroponic methods are nearly organic and very productive. this ratio must be maintained. I think that my breeding successes are primarily due to a very discerning palate and sense of smell. be given to the plant for two weeks prior to harvest. or quantity. 1999) If you want the most fragrant. which have all come to me from various sources and locations throughout the years." or what the Europeans like to call "bio" methods of production. such as Blueberry. But you must remember that subtle and subjective characteristics such as "fragrance" and "bouquet" are dependent upon their environment as much as their genetics. The quality of the hydroponic product may be increased greatly by employing the simple "two week flush" method prior to harvest. Potency ratios I have found that generally the potency of a given variety of cannabis has to do with the ratio of glandular secreted resins. or they simply don't care. with no additives or nutrients. I have had the fortunate opportunity to not merely sample many of the great cannabis strains. there is no real substitute for the complex relationship of plants and organic soil. therefore. and how to best maintain their uniqueness. originality and quality. . Sadly. I have had an excellent and productive relationship with the herb since my early teens in the very early 1970's. decreases potency. (as opposed to chemical and most hydroponic methods). A strong and pleasing odor is the dominant feature expressed in the True Fragrant varieties. I cannot emphasize enough the fact that it takes the purest of environments to grow the purest of herbs. there are situations where a hydroponic system may be superior to an organic one. I don't disagree. However. The key word to this understanding is "organic. Therefore. as I am the goddess-father of these fine products. but to have saved and grown their seeds.
Another factor to consider is what to use as vitalizers and fertilizers. balanced by many various circumstances. seaweed. and perhaps the most simple. and water-born pests. and the Hindu Kush. These "fine herbs" come from very specific geographic locations which I refer to as "sweet spots. fish. we will once again see and experience some of the truly finest examples the planet has to offer. Yet although properly providing and maintaining an organic environment indoors is truly a challenge to face. I can honestly say from experience that all of the "True Fragrant" varieties are major producers when grown in their particular "sweet spot. algae and bacteria are just a few of the organisms that can attack a crop and seriously weaken production. highland and valley Colombia. other than pure water. It is during this time that absolutely NO additives. the islands of Hawaii. There are now many specific products suited for the indoor organic gardener. the product of the smaller plants still tended to be more desirable than the larger ones in the outdoor environment. However. try to find the least toxic one available for the purpose. Nepal. Never apply anything toxic to your plants once they're in the budding cycle. If you feel you must use a commercial chemical product. The bulk of commercial fertilizers and vitalizers (along with most commercial pesticides. be given to the plant. to name but a few. Selective inbreeding hardens the desirable characteristics and gives us specific. Worms. ." Certain examples would be: The Northern Californian-Southern Oregon coastal regions. bat and bird guano. green manures and most of their by-products are examples of substances that are naturally produced that provide plenty of good. and a bit more difficult to solve the problem in a clean and organic way. fungus.This quality/quantity ratio is much less of a concern to the grower who is producing in the great outdoors. Flush your buds! The most important." Blueberry and Flo have both reached 500 grams per plant. when we are allowed to properly produce herb in the great outdoors. the highland Michoacan. varied strains. Consult your local or favorite organic garden centre for more detail. Oaxaca and Chiapas regions of Mexico. multi-harvested between October 1 and November 7. Someday. parts of Afghanistan. and use sparingly. The outdoors is a complete and complex system. it is not impossible. It is in these "sweet spots" that the most favorable and specifically desirable characteristics are acclimated phenotypical. I am very curious to see and experience exactly what our years and multi-generations of indoor breeding are going to produce when returned to these great outdoor "sweet spots. There are also living organisms such as specific predator insects and nematodes. Thailand. It is sometimes difficult enough to help provide and maintain the proper balances organically in an outdoor garden. grown near the 45th parallel in the Pacific Northwest. This is especially important if you have been using chemical fertilizers. Airborne. soil-born. herbicides and fungicides) are synthesized from petrochemical by-products and are not truly natural products. clean nutrients to the plant. It is often too easy to treat these maladies with simple applications of toxic chemicals. Guerrero." Indoor organics Indoor environments are extremely limited in comparison to the great outdoors. Yet here are a variety of adequate organic pesticides and fungicides on the market today. mold. These plants lost little of their overall appeal despite the increase in production. aspect to consider involves the last two to three weeks of the bud cycle � the last two to three weeks of the plant's life prior to harvest.
Pot that has been fertilized right up to harvest is harsh to smoke. I like to remember it as the "rinse" and "flush" cycle. is hard to keep lit and burns your throat. is easier on the throat and is much more pleasurable to smoke. it is very important to give the plant as much pure water as possible during this crucial period. Un-flushed pot leaves black ash. leaves grey ash. burns easily. It is during the final bud-building stage that most of these chemicals are produced. sometimes the joint will even sizzle and pop as unmetabolized fertilizer salts combust. This is to purge unwanted impurities from the plant. Simply remember to give the plants only water for the last two to three weeks in order to rinse and flush them clean. "useable" part of the plant is produced. there are over four hundred separate chemicals associated with cannabis and her effects. . Pot which has been organically grown and properly flushed is more flavourful and fragrant.This is the time when the bulk of the final. Thus. As you may well already know.
Aeroponics also allows nutrients to reach the roots directly. by nature. by means of aeroponics and cooled lights. The presence of more oxygen also discourages bacterial and fungal growth. environment and electrical are all the same as a regular grow op. while a soilless mix will deliver up to 50%. One which. This creates quickly-moving water which is capable of delivering more oxygen because it is well agitated. and low cost but reliable sump pump (otherwise known as a jet pump). with no medium in-between to hamper nutrient uptake or foster the growth of bacterial organisms." Then I saw a system set up: it was so clean and efficient! I saw that this was a very effective nutrient and oxygen delivery system. the lights. where the coral provided a natural aeroponics system. and the humming birds were the size of Robins. Aeroponic can get big buds out of small plants. A dense soil may only deliver 30% oxygen to the roots. or anything that is sealed and opaque. who told me of military experiments in growing enormous tomato plants indoors. buckets. I have measured aeroponic plant growth against soil. The layout is important. The oranges were the size of grapefruits. Other than some basic plumbing supplies. soilless mix and hydroponic drip. Aeroponic can get big buds out of small plants. and everything grew to an enormous size. photos by Barge (01 Sept. The 4 Elements of Aeroponic Gardening AIR In an aeroponic system. Make sure your floor is protected. you literally receive 99% possible oxygen to the roots. nutrients and water are sprayed onto the roots in an atomized or mist form by a high-pressure pump. The most effective root medium is the one which delivers the most oxygen to the roots. or with a bit of effort you can compose your own. One of the advantages with this system is that there is little to dispose of later. and hydroponics will deliver around 80% oxygen. is quick to respond to whatever nutrients you introduce into the system. You can grow aeroponically in tubes. like a waterfall. With aeroponics the sky is the limit. I thought "how unnatural. Photo Jorge Cervantes I first heard of aeroponics through a friend. The aeroponic .Aeroponic Supersonic by Ashera Jones. My aeroponic system reminds me of my visit to floating coral islands in the Bahamas. this brings less police heat and so less stress for you. making both feeding and curing more time-efficient and accurate. But is aeroponics really unnatural? Perhaps not. Photo Jorge Cervantes Commercial Aeroflo operation. 1998) Aeroponics creates dense. Be prepared for some watery catastrophes and have a wet and dry shop vacuum on hand.There are kits and contraptions you can buy. When I learned that the roots just hang in the air and are misted by atomized water and nutrient particles. compact and abundant buds that will amaze you Commercial Aeroflo operation.
which means that you will generally need to add a PH down. Nutrient uptake varies depending on the growth stage of your plants. stadium structure around the lights. FIRE The element of fire in aeroponic gardening includes light and heat. The layout of your room will determine light availability and the ideal situation is to have all plants receiving as much light as possible. Personally. and give all the potential budding sites fair exposure. keeping them stable and standing. while discouraging phototropism. But excess heat can bring fungus and bacteria. which vary in size. without burning. almost hardwoodstalked plants. WATER .system doubles the growth rate of plants as compared to a soil system. The placement of plants in what is known as a "stadium" ensures that I get the lights right in there. which are easily obtained in liquid solutions. so a good balance is necessary. The usual basket size used in hydroponic systems is 3. plants in an aeroponic system fuel their growth with natural elements from the earth. which is also important. This will also encourage the dense bushy-type plant that you want to grow. The ambient room temperature is no more than 80�F but preferably closer to 70�F (20�C). and I will suggest other substances you can add to enhance the nutrient quality your plants are getting from aeroponic feeding. In the earth category. cool water temperature. juicy buds. I have found that the plants tend to uptake less nutrients when they are changing from vegetative to flowering. and they require a little bit of support. The aeroponic garden prefers a lower nutrient solution of between 700-900 parts per million. Light brings photosynthesis and also Ultra Violet "C" rays which discourage some types of bacteria. which although limited in an aeroponic system. I use a few strategically placed four-hundred watt lights. are necessary. Healthy roots make happy plants and rapid growth. but you can use 2 inch baskets for mature plants in an aeroponic system. A cool room temperature usually means a nice. and at the same time. because all the baskets and wool are doing is supporting the plants. These store-bought nutrients are limited in content. bushy. I use rockwool cubes and baskets.5 to 5. However. My experience is that it has been easy to grow fat. Healthy roots make happy plants and rapid growth. EARTH Just like all plants. It is essential to have a "parts-per-million pen" so that you can monitor the amount of food your babies are eating and prevent burning of the roots by a solution that is too acidic and full of mineral salts. and is about one-third faster than a hydroponic system. There are natural alternatives for the open minded that I will talk about later.8. the search for light.5 inches. I personally use the 3 inch size because I like to grow 3 foot bushes that become weighted with fat. and an acid ph of 5. with the plants in a stepped. we also have the growth mediums. the type of nutrient that they require changes.
Stadium set up with central array of sodium and metal halide bulbs. root rot and countless other diseases. To get your water to the roots. This will prevent your pump from burning out and your system from flooding. You would usually add peroxide to your system and let that run through for 1/2 hour before adding nutrients. Stadium set up with central array of sodium and metal halide bulbs. a bunch of high-pressure spray heads and some hose. root rot and unknown other problems. Without water there is no air. H2O2 is powerful and experiments can be dangerous to your whole crop.The element of water in aeroponics is the great transport system. to make sure it is free from unfriendly organisms. All that your plants receive comes to them through water. People will try to sell you very expensive pumps. Be sure not to get any in your eyes. Do not bother using the pressure-tank system that can be purchased in conjunction with your pump. I suggest you keep it cool and clean. Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) or "Oxygen Water" Hydrogen peroxide created by humans is inferior to that created by nature. You will need an hour timer that will allow your pump to spray for 30 seconds to 2 minutes. which is appropriate for atomized nutrients. This will give the peroxide time to kill off bacteria with its extra oxygen molecules and become stabilized before you add the dissolved mineral salts (stock fertilizer). The plants thrived while gnats and other organisms did not. H2O2 will also forcibly cause the out-gassing of chlorine and fluoride from municipal water. Farmers in the US use peroxide for everything from disinfection of the dairy barn and hog pens to increasing crop yields by 20 to 30%. I have used 35% hydrogen peroxide diluted to a 1% solution on a plant in soil that had an infestation of fungus gnats. you will need a pump. In the aeroponic system. Your pump is meant to run intermittently. Humanmade peroxide comes in a variety of percentages. It is also commonly added to the drinking water of animals to reduce the need for antibiotics. H2O2 replicates nature's own antibacterial mechanism and prevents water from growing putrefactive bacteria which can cause the dreaded bacterial wilt. 35% hydrogen peroxide can and should be used in hydroponic drip and soil systems at the rate of one teaspoon per gallon. and then rest for 4 or so minutes. and put in one teaspoon hydrogen peroxide per gallon of water. and you want to get the 35% variety. but it costs less. as is generally done to the 3% variety that you can buy in a pharmacy. This kind of pump is available in the local plumbing department of a Home De-pot or similar hardware store near you. but you need spend no more than $200 to buy yourself a pump that puts out 60psi. as this will ensure that there have been no "stabilizers" added. Hydrogen peroxide will most definitely reduce any possibility of bacterial and fungal contamination. But beware. Let water sit a day before adding it to the nutrient tank. The burning and whitening sensation felt when it touches the skin .
You should dilute 1 part peroxide to 11 parts distilled water to create a 3% solution for less worrisome handling. meaning that the indestructible "prion" particles responsible for "transmissible spongiform encephalophathy" (mad cow disease) are likely also present in bone and blood-meal plant fertilizers. let them cool. then boil them. mineral-salt based. I do not like to use blood and bone meals because I am not sure of the source. and can find their way into plants fertilized with these products. Wear latex. Little clones in aeroponic tube system. You will be amazed how readily your plants will gobble up the food you give them. If there are parasitic invaders then you will know because there will be a profuse bubbling and frothing. Beautiful aeroponic bud. First dry the plants you want. Liquid organic multivitamins for plants are useful and I would suggest using them in combination and in low concentrations. No indoor gardening can be completely organic. Little clones in aeroponic tube system. Let them sit for a few days. You can kill bacteria that might be living in your nutrient tank by wiping out the empty container with a 3% peroxide solution. test the PH and parts per million so you know what percentages to add. To make a 1% solution. Bad Results . as you will want to dilute it to about 0. Add one and then wait before you add the other. but fill less than a quarter of your nutrient tank with this solution. You can safely create a 1% peroxide solution to feed your plants for a few cycles. Be careful to avoid creating a giant toxic soup by adding nutrients all at once. put them through a fine particle filter. You can provide your plants with their requirements as organically as possible by making your own nutrient teas with plants that you know "fix" certain types of minerals into themselves. I would rather use plant sources of nutrients to help the persons who ingest my buds avoid contracting Mad Plant Disease! Beautiful aeroponic bud. Aeroponically. and then introduce them to your aeroponic garden. or add 3 parts water to one part 1% peroxide. The same can be done with "meals" like soybean meal and others. you're best to introduce partial organics which provide micronutrients not available in standard inorganic.25% for longer use.25% solution add 140 parts of water to 1 part 35% peroxide. good or bad. add 35 parts water to 1 part 35% hydrogen peroxide. To achieve an 0.can be irritating but is not damaging. ORGANIC AEROPONIC Organic aeroponic is at least partially possible with little or no hassle. which is the hydrogen peroxide oxidizing putrefactive organisms that are not oxygen compatible.. then put them into water. How many people are using animal-based fertilizers whose origin they know nothing about? There is less restriction on the source of these "bone and blood meals" than there is in the pet food or agricultural industry. and with aeroponics you can expect near immediate results. Applying H2O2 to Your system. hydroponic mixes.
you have probably developed root rot. a living nutrient. Hydrogen peroxide kills unwanted freeloaders. A higher concentration of mineral salts generally makes the water more acidic and brings ph down and parts per million up. which will be trying to heal from chemical insult. What are in those ph up and ph down bottles anyways? Who cares! Nature's best solution is simple. Another plump aeroponic bud. the ones you buy at the store. Long. as their energy will then be concentrated down in the roots. If the leaves start yellowing. and then it is time to clear the system and add the hydrogen peroxide again. It is important to note that oxygen creates a high ph or neutral environment. Unplug a light or two and give you plants a chance to recover. Another plump aeroponic bud.If you have bad results after feeding. you can lower ph while still providing oxygen and bringing micronutrients to your plants that they would not regularly get. depending on how much I have added. So using hydrogen peroxide will bring your ph up.5 and 5. and I mean small! . By adding Kombucha. Then I add my stock nutrients. I drain the system and put my hydrogen peroxide solution in and let it run for 1/2 hour. Then about a day later. so try to avoid disasters. Everything should be visibly back to normal within a day. cheap and has inherently less packaging. you grow a particular bacterium in a medium of black. you may have a problem unrelated to feeding. and then add the altered medium to your solution. lush healthy roots. providing the plant with easy to assimilate nutrients. Kombucha also has beneficial health effects for the human organism. the food and water get eaten. Lowering the ph can be done with apple cider vinegar but I like to use Kombucha fungus. I let those run through for a day. I run my organic fertilizers through the system first. low-ph environment will reduce funguses like root rot. sometimes 3 or more hours. Too much nutrients and only the gods can save you. Ph Balance Aeroponically grown plants prefer a rather acidic solution of between 5. With a 900 parts per million nutrient solution you will still need to add some ph down. Kombucha is an oxygen producing bacteria that is compatible with both the human and vegetative world because it metabolizes nutrients in the tea itself. If you see no positive results after a day. when I am low on nutrients and water. which is problematic because "Kali weed" likes low ph in the aeroponic environment. The gods. remove all nutrients and run a low peroxide solution through your system. or you may have added too much nutrient solution.8ph. then I add my organics again. To avoid such a problem. I let them run through for half a day. green or herbal tea. and maybe a little less lighting. Shock can precipitate root rot and you must remember that plants have an immune system and do respond to stress. lush healthy roots. Another way to raise ph is by adding a small quantity of baking soda. as it creates a wonderful selection of living interacted nutrients that are amazing and affordable. Long. Having an acidic. The problem with introducing organics into an aeroponic system is that there is always some other organism that wants to cash in on the good life. Basically.
inexpensive pump in the corner. but these ones are particular to aeroponics. They prefer using bone and blood meal which they know nothing about. square men think this is disgusting.. hopping flies and dust them with death at the first sign. Blue Cohosh is a herb which contains plant estrogens. is a good source of estrogen and is as organic as the donor. I can say that there is a part of me in every plant I have ever grown. . Kombucha with its low ph. Decreasing other fertilizer levels before introducing blood will reduce the possibility of the blood feeding unwanted organisms in your system. The standard powders. It can easily be introduced in the form of tea. These pills are synthetic and cause a lot of trouble for women and generally I have a certain disdain for them. Note that you do have to change the water every day. Fungus gnats cannot get very far and are generally not a problem. Such backwards attitudes aside. Ultimately. also work. if you run a low ph through while leeching. while also providing the plants with a continued... menstrual blood is not plant based and is arguably a secondary source to phyto-estrogen. Try Aeroponics and have a "mist"-ifying experience! SATIVA DIVA --A small. It facilitates the release of mineral salts.. This is a personal choice. however. Menstrual blood. or you can even grow your Kombucha on it. you will want to leech the unused mineral salts out of your plants. other than that it came from a dead animal who had a miserable life and ate less organically than most of the women you know. Fungus Gnats Curing your aeroponic garden of diseases is very easy. A small. DISEASES COMMON TO AEROPONIC SYSTEMS There are lots of other problems gardeners face. your plants will release their mineral salts at a much faster rate. and I also use this in my flowering formulas. but it is not mine. inexpensive pump in the corner. so keep your eyes peeled for the evil. Get real. They can only go a few inches into the rockwool before they meet the nutrient solution. as just running the same water through won't work! Because mineral salts concentrate in the plants at a high ph. little. usually young. which is no good for them. It is annoying that some.Clearing Your Plants Before harvest. including diatomaceous earth. Leeching is easily done with aeroponics by changing the water daily for three to seven days. Phyto Estrogens Some people use birth control pills to raise the estrogen level in their plants. is thus the ideal thing to add to your water during leeching. clean source of micronutrients.
. delivering lots of light. which accompanies the brown discolouration. One way to avoid root rot is to inoculate your plants' medium with a predator fungus. . Hopefully wilt never happens to you. Check your roots regularly. not to be confused with the staining caused by certain nutrient solutions. Another sure sign is black spots on the roots. and even in gardening books it is rarely mentioned. . It might also come as a simple yellowing of the leaves and kill your babies in a short period of time. Not enough UV.If you notice that you have more than five in your room.. add a UV light or two. If it does. A sure sign is a browning of the roots. and a portion of the stem directly below the yellowing will be entirely lifeless.can be used to feed 8 tubes with 20 plants each! Bacterial Wilt This is a weird one. Ultra-Violet light is a natural part of the spectrum and kills bacteria. These are readily available at well-equipped grow stores. increasing both growth and resin production while countering the effects of photo and geotropism (the effects which lead to increased internodal spaces). Wilt is not common. The larvae will also be filtered out by the fine particle spray filter before long. and air which is too cool. both of which are effective. I would definitely run a 1/2% solution of peroxide and no nutrients through for one day to help the plants and kill any gnat larvae that may have made it into the medium. It is a fungus that shows up as rust. There is always a margin of time before your plants will die. brown and mushy. Water-cooled lights have a tendency to cut out a lot of UV. They are inexpensive and may give you a better chance at recreating what nature delivers. may lead to bacterial wilt. a black spot and/or a powdery mildew. There are products which can be introduced through either the leaves or roots. Yet such lights negate the healing effects of both light heat and UV rays. which can be increased depending on your knowledge. depending on your response. Root Rot Root rot is particularly dangerous in aeroponic systems.can be used to feed 8 tubes with 20 plants each! . Bacterial wilt causes yellowing of leaves and flowers. yet if environmental conditions are right it can affect your plants. with a clear viscous goo oozing out of the plant's pores. That sounds radical but so is the problem.. pray and change everything.. These cooled lights can be placed really close to plants. Once you have it.
like a weed. Vegetative stage Sprouts. like summer. Day is when it is light and night is when it is dark. many of us simply grew big plants. Once Mel and Ed set us straight. As a general rule of thumb. and a specific set of circumstances.a harsh and unpleasant tasting substance that produced little high and plenty of headache. 2000) Getting your plants to produce fine buds is a simple as night and day. The floral clusters sprout from the areas where the leaves attach to the stems. This period has a long daytime and a short nighttime. Large shade leaves form and act as sugar factories for the plant. if outdoors. while it can. the concept of 'bud cycle' was not apparent until Ed Rosenthal and Mel Frank published their first works in 1976. and just consumed whatever presented itself. cycle. The large shade leaves begin to die and fall off as the plant shifts its energy from producing leaves and stem to producing floral clusters. and the demand for phosphorous and potassium increases to fuel the process. The rest of us often learned the hard way what bunkweed was . This stage has a shorter daytime and an increased nighttime. called "nodes. A thorough understanding of this simple fact is crucial to more fully understanding the nature of cannabis. Those lucky enough to be able to grow outdoors and all the way into October were blessed with some pleasant surprises. The nitrogen." The buds . plants have two worlds in which they exist: night and day. Young cannabis will flourish practically anywhere. The key element is the timing of the light cycle.Timing is Everything by DJ Short (19 Jun. Food from light and nitrogen decreases. in order to properly mature. would be coming at a lower angle as the season progressed. The plant needs to use as much food from the available light as it can. acts as building blocks to the overall structure of the plant. It is during this period that the plants declare their sex and produce large floral clusters that become the buds. fresh clones and young plants live in what we refer to as the vegetative stage. coupled with the extra light. The young plants will grow with vigor. It is during this vegetative stage that the plants send out much new growth. under almost any conditions � but it takes a special environment. Cannabis needs to properly mature in order to be of value. or bud. the relationship between light timing and flowering was virtually unknown by the apprentice grower. When I first started growing pot in the early 1970's. Prior to this. turning sunlight into fiber for new growth. either outdoors or under some form of artificial light. in the indoor garden the average light cycle for the vegetative stage is 18 hours on and 6 hours off. During the early flower stage the plant will go through what appears to be a growth spurt as the stems stretch to catch the light that. This is why high nitrogen fertilizers are so beneficial during this period. Even though High Times began publication in 1974. such as late summer and fall. Bud cycle shift At some point in the young plant's development it becomes time to begin the shift to what is called the flowering. Like humans. our product's quality began to increase.
even for a short period of time. the moon and streetlights glowing through the low clouds over an urban area don't seem to hinder the outdoor plant all that much. 11 hours of day and 13 hours of night. And although outdoor equatorial crops take such a long time to mature. is capable of producing an ounce or two of finished product in two short months. The transition between the plants' stages is therefore more drawn out and gradual. the typical light cycle used in the bud stage is 12 hours on and 12 hours off. either during the day or with any lights outside the room on. the change in light cycle timing is gradual and slow. Doing so may interrupt the long. The only way to test this is to sit in the room in the dark. a little bit more every day. between 30 degrees north and 30 degrees south. Nights of total darkness An important thing to remember about the indoor bud cycle is that the dark period must be absolute and uninterrupted. slow process of change that the plant had been working on up to that point. Indoors. to check for light leaks. This forced flowering has its advantages as the plants are made to finish up quickly. The vegetative stage may be 13 hours of day and 11 hours of night. in the southern hemisphere). So remember to make it dark and keep it dark. or photoreactive rate. And. Indica is a variety from the 30th parallel and above. six inch tall veggie plant (a plant in the vegetative stage) placed immediately into the bud cycle. The typical 18/6 and 12/12 light cycles are primarily beneficial to Indica varieties. Under these indoor conditions the plant is forced to make the shift quickly.fill in the nodes and progress out. as we all know. Once the bud cycle has begun it is important to never interrupt the dark period with any light. Oddly enough. plants do most of their fiber production at night. It is advisable to allow your eyes to adjust to the darkness before declaring the room adequately sealed. I don't understand why it is that outdoor plants are not as sensitive to these nighttime interruptions. thus aiding production. indoor plants tend to be ultra-sensitive to nighttime interruptions of light. There are pure Sativa strains that require three to four months to mature in the flowering cycle indoors. which may help to explain why such small vegetative plants are capable of producing so much bud in such a relatively short period of time. Stars. Sativa variations Another aspect to consider is that Indica and Sativa varieties differ in their photo period expression. Outdoors. whereas the flowering cycle may be the opposite. given adequate light. For whatever reason. The room must be thoroughly sealed to be completely dark when the lights are off. Indoors. The plant may react by having to restart the process and seriously delay the scheduled maturation time. Sativa originates from equatorial regions. and this timing cycle is more akin to locations north of the 30th latitude (or south. it is strictly the female plants that develop into our high quality and most desired sensimilla. Around the equator there is a much smaller difference between seasonal day lengths. it . which is why the average length of the indoor flowering cycle is eight to nine weeks. the change in light cycle is usually instant: one day is 18 hours long and the next (and all those to follow) is 12 hours long. Perhaps it has to do with the unmatchable light intensity of the Sun. A well formed. food and root space. Indica became the herb of choice early on in the industry due to its fast maturation and large production abilities under the HID lights.
would produce. developed to provide a wider range of photo periods.is often possible in the right areas to produce two to four crops per year. Light fortified greenhouses are capable of producing high quality herb just about anywhere on the planet. via careful selective breeding. More interesting will be what the wonderful and great outdoors will produce in all of her various environments. . It will be interesting to see what specialized grow rooms. In the meantime. further experimentation and research using different indoor light timing cycles would be very worthwhile. Once implemented. the global environment will surely reveal interesting and desirable variations. thanks to the tropical environments.
make make up between 75% and 90% of the total hairs. That is. if going directly from an 18/6 hour vegetative light cycle to a 12/12 hour bud cycle. where I will begin. make make up between 75% and 90% of the total hairs. There is the difference between Sativas and Indicas in bloom duration and final effect. head highs tend to be more up and body highs tend to be more down. Outdoors many will go well into November and even December. most indicas take about eight weeks to fully mature. but not least. this is near or at the 45th parallel). All photos by Barge There are several important points to consider when choosing the optimum time to harvest your cannabis crop. sometimes running into November during mild years or in a greenhouse. The red hairs are plump and full. Somewhere along the line the plant becomes over-ripe which signifies the "closing" of the window of harvest. For most Indicas grown indoors. the window of harvest is about two weeks long give or take a couple of days for various strains. then an early harvested Sativa might do best. As to outdoors I can only speak from experience at the 45th parallel and the bloom times there. then a late harvest indicas would probably do . if you prefer a very psychedelic head high. if conditions are right (again. the window may be open much longer. sometimes very late September. Last. At the 45th parallel I've found most Indicas to be at peak harvest starting at the beginning of October. Sativas and early window harvests tend to be more of a head high.jpg These buds are near peak maturity. Harvest6.jpg These buds are near peak maturity. is the concept of "the window of harvest". The Window of Harvest This term indicates the period during which the plant is at its optimum state of ripeness. Given this rule of thumb you can pretty much come up with what you want. Suffice it to say that a good healthy mix of the two is a fine goal to achieve. By DJ Short. whereas a good body high is more similar to a narcotic effect. The red hairs are plump and full. My favorite time to harvest a nice Blueberry Indica outdoors is in the second to third week of October. Some Sativas take up to thirteen weeks to mature indoors. The window "opens" when the plant is first ripe. whereas Indicas and late window harvests tend to be more of a body high. and running until the end of October. For Sativa grown either indoors or outdoors. There is the issue of chemistry because what we are really considering in terms of the "ripeness" relates directly to the chemical nature and state of the plant at harvest. Indoors. If a very narcotic body high is desired. Head High or Body Stone? An important consideration has to do with one's preference for a "head" high or more of a "body" high. There are different factors to consider between indoor and outdoor plants. There is the difference between early and late harvest to encourage head to body high respectively. A good head high can positively influence one's mental state much like a psychedelic. Generally.Harvest Your Herb Harvest3.
lower pistils are the first to turn reddish brown. Remember .best. For a basic Indica this takes well into the seventh week of the flowering cycle. along the surfaces of the bud flowers (calyxes). By the end of the eighth week most of the calyxes will have swollen and a surge of trichome development has coated most of the buds. The denser the concentration. At peak maturity about 90% of the calyxes will almost look seeded. Usually a fibrous growth spurt is accompanied by a corresponding trichome increase. The lowest. youngest flowers on each bud. More and more of these trichomes develop as the plant matures. The ripening signs for most Sativas are highly similar. starting in or around the fourth week of the bud cycle. The older. As far as trichomes are concerned. bulbous heads are what to shoot for. At the same time. I highly recommend that the serious cannabis student acquire a 30X power. It is now that the development of a very discerning palate comes into play to determine the finest harvest time. With the aid of the magnifier one can learn more about the detail of trichome development and ripeness. The chemicals we enjoy are produced within the glandular stalked trichomes. we are noting variations in plant chemistry. glandular stalked trichomes will begin to form along the surfaces of leaves. bracts and stems. Magnify your Buds When we speak of various highs experienced by different products. Changes in Chemistry Harvest1. These can be found at most local electronics stores. leaves and stems. for a week or so the plant may exhibit signs of peak ripeness. illuminated magnifier. often for under fifteen dollars.jpg Ready for harvest! . It is about this time that the calyxes begin to swell. clear. Occasionally. time and experience are the key elements in this regard.patience is a virtue and often a discipline. flowers. The Cycle of Plant Maturity Starting in the third or fourth week of the flowering light cycle. However. bracts. except extended over a longer period of time. the greater the potency. a week later the plant may have a growth spurt. oldest calyxes swell first and the swelling works its way up to the highest. Calyx swelling is a major indicator of peak maturity. experimentation with late harvested sativas and early-to-mid harvested indicas usually proves interesting. The pistils and flowers develop from the bottom of the bud to the top. Three quarters to 90% of the pistils will have turned reddish brown as well. some Sativas have windows of peak harvest that actually open and close. For that best-of-both worlds high. they are so fat. For most basic indicas this usually happens by the sixth week in the flowering cycle. That is. The pistils of the young flowers are bright white and turn reddish brown with age. the tall ones with swollen. Again. which lowers the trichome-to-fibre ratio and overall potency for a little while. more and more flowers (also called calyxes) develop into densely-packed floral clusters.
given the proper curing process (see CC #10). the more desirable compounds begin breaking down into less desirable ones. whereas a narcotic late-window Indica may work better as an evening medicinal herb. developed over time and with experience. aroma and flavour. Set and setting also play an important role in determining which type of product is best appreciated. finis . Blue Velvet or Flo. As the window closes. Send inquiries to Question DJ c/o Cannabis Canada. Primarily it is THC breaking down in CBNs and CBDs. The main point is that these differences are chemical in nature and more research is needed to more fully understand this phenomenon. especially in regard to bouquet. Pleasant head highs are often desirable for social occasions. Which particular combination of chemicals is the most desirable is purely a matter of taste and choice. I look forward to providing what information I can. DJ Short is interested in hearing your experiences and questions. Another important point is that much can be done to further enhance the chemical process.As the plant matures through its window of harvest its chemistry changes. especially if have grown or tried the strains Blueberry.
If the buds are a tad wet or if humid conditions dominate. regular checking to decide when they are ready for the next stage is crucial. The time to the next step depends on how dry your hanging area is. especially on the inside. They should now be fully smokable. though perhaps still slightly damp at the core. moonicon. an unwanted chemical. As with proper manicuring. but the outer part of the buds should be starting to feel dry. When the larger shade leaves become dry and brittle to the touch it is time to gently clip them off. dry. This is what is referred to as "manicuring". protecting the buds. Don't pack the buds down and do not fold the bag too tight. and most importantly dark place. Some of the buds. I like to use brown paper shopping bags due to their not being bleached.gif baggedbu. above the level of the buds. This will help to hasten the drying process. Light must be avoided from this point on.jpg Brown Bagging It Once the buds are crisp on the outside but still moist on the inside it is time for the next step in the process: the paper bag.Proper curing can exponentially increase the quality and desirability of your harvest. A few small folds at the top of the bag. The bags should be gently shaken. As the buds dry they will naturally compact into the selfpreserving state that we all know and love. . for ventilation. It is at this time that the buds can be more compacted together and the bag folded down tighter. Re-hang the branches in the drying room and regularly check them until the smaller leaves and bud tips become dry and brittle to the touch. at least once a day. or if the buds are still feeling heavy with moisture. should suffice.jpg Dark & Dry After cutting the plant or branch. you may want to try placing them on a suspended screen for a little while. so practice! bagicon. If you are in a more humid area. ever-socarefully turning the buds. This requires regular checking to determine when to proceed.gif hangingb. Now you have a few choices as to what to do with your manicured buds. the smaller ones in particular. hang it upside down in a cool. Simply fill a paper bag a few inches deep with the manicured buds. It is then time to remove the buds from the branch and remove the rest of the leaf material as best as possible. regular checking is key. you might want to consider cutting a few small holes in the bag. Leave the larger shade leaves on and they will gently droop and wrap around the plant. The key word to remember is "slow". might even be smokable at this point. This is also a skill that is developed more with time and experience. The buds should still be a little wet at this point. like a lunch bag. Once again.
Aside from watching and smelling for mold. the better. such as very arid deserts or tropical humid areas. especially in the cultivation of the Blueberry and Flo varieties. There is no substitute for consistent.jpg Ready to go! A bud is completely dry. if the mold was detected in the jar stage simply put the rest of the product back to the bag stage for awhile (after removing the contaminated product from the batch). You will be able to detect the fragrance of the product becoming more and more desirable as time progresses. I like to dump them all out of the jar and gently fluff them up at least once a day at first. should take anywhere from two to four weeks. from harvest to these first smokable products. The moldy bud needs to be removed. The snap is easy to detect with practice. finis . If problems with the mold occur prior to this. then less often as time progresses. The simplest solution is to go back one step. After a week or so all I do is simply open the jar and check the buds on a daily basis. packed in very loosely. always remember to keep the product in the dark. and the jar is sealed. while also avoiding mold. The screen is the driest process that I know of. preferred by most connoisseurs. finalbud. The nearly ready buds are transferred from the bag to the jar. go back to the screen. jaricon. usually for a week to ten days. hands-on checking. DJ Short welcomes questions and feedback. He can be contacted care of Cannabis Canada. and ready for sale or consumption when the stem in the middle of the bud snaps when the bud is cracked with the fingers.gif The Final Stage jarbud. Whenever mold is found it must be dealt with immediately. For example. Extremes in climate. and the rest of the product needs to be exposed to a drier environment for a while.jpg A final curing stage. The longer you can stretch out this process. It is very important in the early jar-stage to check the buds at least once a day. a dehumidifier in the drying room may be the answer. cured. involves sealable jars. It is at this stage that the product can safely be sealed and stored for an indefinite period of time. It is important to be as gentle as possible so as not to damage too many of the resin glands. Watch for Mold The main thing to watch (and smell) for throughout all of the curing process is mold. If the mold is detected in the bag stage. I like when it takes six to eight weeks from harvest to the finished product.The entire process. may take more or less time. depending on your climate.
They were the Highland Thai (also called Juicy Fruit Thai. The high could last up to seven hours! The flavour. For best breeding results you use true-breeding stabilized strains as your P1's. alternating bract and flower in single file. anywhere from a quarter inch to one inch apart. green growth. It was a powerful. body high. I was never able to get a Juicy Fruit Highland Thai to "over mature". For me. with some sporting long. or no more than one generation removed. The finished product from the Highland Thai was an all-around champion herb. and consisted of a row of evenly-spaced female flowers and their corresponding bract leaves. I took one to almost twenty weeks into its flower cycle and she just kept pumping it out. The overall plant color was dark. This plant grew fast. called the P1 generation. the P1 must be either a fully acclimated. I used three P1 strains to breed Blueberry. while the bud structures matured a lighter shade of green. I have very high standards for my P1 generation. and crossed with itself or another highly similar. The only difference was that the later harvest was a more stony. slender shoots of widely-spaced single female flowers in a row (especially when grown hydroponically under halide lights. a cross called Purple Thai which was a first generation land-race Chocolate Thai crossed once with a first generation landrace Highland Oaxaca Gold. Juicy Fruit Juicy Fruit The Highland Thai was a joy to grow and behold. Most of the buds were very loose. Choosing your parents The place for breeding to begin is with choosing the parent plants. one was taken in early-mid December from a greenhouse. Thick side-branching is another characteristic of this variety. Flo and others. Many of these spindles resemble threads protruding from a semi-formed bud. region-of-origin land-race variety. Thai Thai The entirety of the "thread" and bud structure was coated with sweet/fruity aromatic resin glands. 1999) A case study on how to go about breeding fine marijuana. and an Afghani Indica which came to me one generation removed from Afghanistan via the California/Southern Oregon growing community. sometimes green/yellow. the outcome was fully worth the effort. The plant only periodically produced any kind of "tight" bud structure. a first-generation Thai seed grown in the Pacific Northwest). region-of-origin land-race variety. Though difficult to trim and cure. long-lasting and exquisitely flavoured herb with little or no ceiling.On the origins of Blueberry by DJ Short (01 Sept. aroma and . filling in any empty spaces with lush. despite its hermaphroditism. some even longer. Different breeders have different standards as to what qualifies as a P1. It was a very slow finisher. 12 to 16 weeks and beyond in the bud period for most. It had the longest and skinniest leaves out of all the plants I have worked with. Outdoors. Each single thread averaged anywhere from five to ten inches long.) This bud structure is known as "spindly".
The finished product was equally as fruity and strong as the Juicy Fruit. They were huge. stinky. which is where the finer qualities of the indica appear. The triad of sinsemilla. I believe more indicas should be made into hashish. and the finished buds were a medium and compact sativa type. wide leaves. dense buds of potent. The side branches were shorter and. including when tripping. producing large. Afghani male Afghani male The f1 cross The f1 cross is the first cross between two distinctly different P1 parents. Few people maintained their sativa lines. at roughly three to four weeks into the cycle. also without ceiling. It did not exhibit any of the spindly bud syndrome of the Juicy Fruit Thai. This was right after sinsemilla herb hit the market with big appeal. and the advent of high powered halide and HPS lights. Though consistent in its growth and overall effect. pungent herb that smelled like a skunk and produced a narcotic-knockout stone that was tremendously novel. For whatever aesthetic reason. It is this initial genetic diversity that leads to the most possibilities in succeeding lines. Blueberry x Afghani Blueberry x Afghani The sinsemilla Afghani Indica first showed up on the market in 1979. and the strains virtually disappeared from the commercial markets. I preferred the Purple Thai to the Juicy Fruit Highland Thai. The Afghani Indica plant is short with large. indica.taste were a totally sweet tropical punch � tutti-fruity all the way. sticky. At larger doses the Juicy Fruit could evoke quite a terror. The Purple Thai was one of the first to show resin gland production in the early bud cycle. if left alone (untopped) the main stalk (meristem) remained the dominant shoot. the Purple Thai seemed easier to handle. Though no less potent. It also matured at 10 to 12 weeks indoor. stout and thick-stemmed. The short. its appeal is somewhat limited in my opinion. dense. especially when combined with psychedelics. all wreaked havoc on the breeding programs of most pot-entrepeneurs. early-maturing and body-powerful indica has dominated the scene since 1983 � a matter of disjointed economics. I cannot overstress the importance of the two P1 parents being as genetically different as is possible. The "f" stands for filial (child). The Purple Thai was the other sativa in my repertoire. It has early to very early maturation. This was a first generation cross between the Highland Oaxaca Gold and the Chocolate Thai. Such were the three main P1's I used for my breeding lines. . This cross grew medium/tall and was very symmetric in structure. I believe that the Purple Thai was emotionally kinder or gentler than the Juicy Fruit. and early to mid November outdoors. dense buds that smell earthen to skunk. when compared to all the sativas that had come before. with a strong smoke that is generally sedative or "down" in effect. Afghani Afghani The entire plant of the Purple Thai was very dark-coloured and would express a deep royal purple colour at the slightest exposure to cold. green.
Trial and error is the rule. The f2 seeds collected were equally diverse. tastes and highs. short to tall. The seed is uniformly sized and shaped. The Blueberry (among others) was discovered and stabilized from an f1 cross between the P1 parents of a female Juicy Fruit Thai or a female Purple Thai and a male Afghani Indica. while Blue Moonshine seems more accessible through the Juicy Fruit lineage. Blue Velvet and Flo seem more accessible via the Purple Thai route. then the f1 will be a true hybrid. leaving plenty for experimentation. Oddly enough. A grand amount of time. There will be a tremendous amount of variance in the f2 crosses of f1's obtained from a female pure sativa and a male pure indica. Afghani Afghani The f2 cross The f2 is the second filial generation. small. wile the outer leaf. The diversity was spectacular. indoors.If the P1's are sufficiently diverse. energy and money was spent from this point to isolate and stabilize the desired traits. long buds formed along the branches. With my f2 crosses the outcome was extreme. there are . purple and blue hues. On average. certain paths prove futile while others bear further examination. striped to solid. That is. with almost every characteristic of the cannabis plant being expressed in some of the plants. aromas. Only a very few of The Cross expressed hermaphroditism. expressing a near total uniformity and great vigor. They were also more hermaphroditic and subsequent breeding revealed them to be less desirable. especially among the Purple Thai cross. Large. about 1 out of every 25 females. early to late maturation. the opposite cross (female Afghani indica crossed with pollen from male Thai sativa) was not nearly as interesting. round to oval. dark to light. and so they're easier to "find". there is a higher probability of occurence of the specific traits which I'm seeking. licorice and paint. The plants of The Cross grew uniform. From sativa to indica. ranging from large to small. the (usually female) sativa contributes the type of aroma and flavour. A single female is capable of producing thousands of seed. gin. plump to slender. So far this observation has proven fruitful. ellipsoid and mottled with dark stripes upon a grayish brown shell. which I called simply "The Cross". There is a tremendous amount of work between the f2's and the f4's and f5's. There was a wide palate of colours. both in structure and aesthetics. The finished bud had a very strong "astringent" chemical/terpene aroma that bordered between pine. medium-tall "spear" structures of many competing sidebranches around one main (meristem) stalk. simply a cross between any two of the f1 stock. with a wide window of harvest being between weeks eight to eleven in the bud cycle. The maturation rates were uniform as well. The f1's from this cross were more leafy and less desirable. It is in the crosses beyond the initial f1 (especially the f1xf1=f2 cross) that specific traits are sought. Thus there were two possible routes to essentially the same finished product. along with an extensive array of flavours. It has been my observation that in a successful cross. This is the f1 generation. almost yellow to the centres. wide to narrow leaves. bract and calyx tips showed red. The buds were lighter. Blue Moonshine Blue Moonshine So the Thai female is pollinated with the Afghani male and an abundance of seed is produced. while the (usually male) indica contributes the amount of aroma and flavour to the prodigy.
in as low a humidity as possible (preferably 0%). f4 and f5. The trick to successful freezing is to freeze deep (-10 to -40�F/-20 to -35�C) and then keep the seed undisturbed. cut above the lowest few nodes. The fridge is extremely useful in extending the longevity of seed and pollen. A pollen-to-flour ratio of 1:10 or even . Blueberry x NL#5 Blueberry x NL#5 I like to do one backcross somewhere between the f3 and f5 generation. a fun and worthwhile occupation to sample all the research material. Exactly when. where and how that is done remains a trade secret for now. storing seed in airtight. It was hard work and dedication to record the findings and attempt to create useful categories and find patterns and traits to specific characteristics. In the fridge. Mendel's work is useful. but when it comes to herb I much prefer Luther Burbank's philosophy: "Select the best and reject all others!" This simple phrase is worth much consideration. Another trade secret is the art of selecting the best males for breeding. Have phun! Select the best. If the sample passed "the test" then the plant was kept for further consideration. delicate cell structures within the seed. It must be frozen immediately after fresh collection from the plant. The most desirable samples were used for further breeding to f3. reject all others Mendelian procedures are fine for sweet peas. Hard frozen objects are very fragile. especially concerning P1 and f1 crosses. Coupled with the difficult clandestine aspects of the trade through the 80's and 90's. little manilla envelopes work great.about nine errors to each success. were placed under a vegetative light cycle to stimulate new growth for cloning. These topics and others will be covered in future articles. Then there's the wait for the cured sample. The slightest shock may shatter crucial. But beyond the f2 and f3 cross. I like to do small amounts. I have had pollen last for years in a deep freeze. Now the seed is ready for the deep-freeze. The pollen pile is sifted to rid the unwanted plant material from the pure powder. It was however. Double wrap the seed in paper. to keep waste to a minimum. then place the freezer bag into a plastic tub or tupperware container. Then place the wrap into a plastic freezer bag. in one-time-use packets. Afghani clones Afghani clones Your friend the freezer A benevolent tool in our trade is the refrigerator and freezer. I like to shake the productive male flowers over a flat and clean piece of glass. Mendel's theories add copius complexity to the equation. brown glass jars with a little rice or other non-toxic desiccant seems to work best. Many sacrifices were endured by my family and friends. The harvested plants. It is also useful to cut pollen with flour to stretch the amount. it was a difficult task to accomplish.
Keeping the plant in a stationary position. stationary plants. The 18/6 veggie and 12/12 bud cycles are perhaps the main influence towards the indica dominant strains and generic blandness of the indoor commercial product. Blue Velvet Blue Velvet The sweet sativa room I recommend the creation of a special "sativa room" for indoor breeding of such strains. perhaps a four-to-eight inch layer of soil over clay or concrete (with some form of drain system) would encourage lateral root growth. and a more lowland sativa-friendly environment. the sativa-friendly room can be used to acclimate an indoor sativa variety. may positively influence the outcome of the finished product. and variations in soil composition and depth. which expands the possibilities of your breeding operation. one-time-use amounts.1:100 works best. Light cycle is one of the key considerations for those wishing to breed truly fine quality cannabis indoors under lights. Be prepared for much fine tuning. such as 15/9 veggie and 10/14 flowering cycle. Equatorial strains also experience a higher arch of sunlight than those grown beyond 38� north or south � with a sunrise almost due east and sunset nearly due west. The goal is to replicate the equatorial conditions of the world�s various "sweet spots". The frozen pollen must be applied to the live female flower immediately after thawing to increase viability. If successful. Different variations may be tried. Therefore the sativa room will edintense overhead lighting with a straight track mover. especially through the bud cycle. As jungle (lowland) herb requires only a thin layer of nutrient soil. . A true equatorial sativa will require closer to a 13/11 vegetative and a long (four to six month) 11/13 flower cycle. The cut pollen may then be separated into small. This room needs to consider and satisfy the unique needs of the sativa variety. humidity control set on low for the highland and high for the lowland. Some of these conditions include: a different light cycle than the standard 18/6 vegetative 12/12 bud cycles. stored in a flap of paper and frozen the same way as the seed. a higher angle of light (using a straight track shuttle instead of a circular one).
clean up. Vapour barriers and finely screened vents for intake and exhaust fans are essential to avoid sucking in bugs from the outside. However. as pests may enter the grow space on you. Predator Mites Once you've got mites bad the best solution is to tear down. they are nearly impossible to get out. Mite growth slows dramatically at lower temperatures. They may even wipe the mites out entirely and then starve to death themselves. Formally known as Phytoseilus Persimillis. if they persist and you shudder at the prospect of starting all over again then you should introduce predator mites. A garden started in a frozen climate is safe provided that the mites don't tag along in a bag of compost. I once saw an attic garden that was full of plants but had no ventilation. They breed quickly and can develop resistance to certain sprays. Bring only clean tools and sterilized growing medium into your growroom. so the plants were bone dry and covered with tents. reducing the quantity and quality of your harvest. as well as the commercially available alternatives. Prevention The key to a mite-free garden is prevention. well ventilated rooms. Their persistence is incredible. Remember that if you have houseplants they may be supporting a population of mites as well. At higher temperatures they become very active and mobile. or at least try to keep their numbers down. Once mites get into your garden. Having clean clothes and shoes is important. your friends. Just don't let them in. The vegetation that surrounds our dwellings supports an everpresent threat of invasion. The problem. A hot growroom with poor ventilation is a breeding ground for mites. and start again with a renewed interest in prevention. The best growrooms are cool. is that every garden on the West Coast is under siege. predator mites will eat the evil spidermites and their eggs. If you have mites you will know it by the very small white dots on top of your leaves. Almost every grower has heard of and used many home remedies. The gardener also claimed to be too tired after work to carry water into his attic regularly. Wipe off any signs of webs immediately and repeatedly. Ventilation Ventilation fans are essential for healthy plant growth as well as discouraging the mites. given the proper cool temperatures. and your pets. Note that the predators may not be as effective if the mite population is too high . They are like little mosquitoes that suck the lifeblood from your plants.MITES BITE By Breeder Steve of the Spice of Life Seed Company Spider mites bite! You must get rid of them. as a friend recently pointed out. especially if the place gets dry. Webs & Eggs Spidermites spin webs which facilitate movement among the plant's branches and neighbouring plant's branches for the shortlegged demons. A terrible sight indeed. If you look closely underneath the leaf you will see the little white eggs clinging to the underside and most likely the little white or reddish brown spidermites walking around or sucking the sweet juice of your plant.
Pentac or Kelthane are sprays that may be used while the plants are in vegetative cycle. as going the extra mile during the construction of the grow room can save a marathon cleanup later. and use it myself. It sounds nasty but it is merely fine sand with very sharp edges. This is a dangerous and harmful product. and you will rejoice one battle won. A new spray is being touted as killing spidermites but not the predator mites. branches and pots. Very frightening indeed is the "ultimate mite killer" Avid. ceiling and floor. Although this is only a band aid solution it can't hurt. the mites will die a hideous death. which usually only provides a short term remedy. The dust is harmless to plants and animals (ourselves included) but very destructive to small crawling insects such as mites. A few cigarette butts soaked in a litre of water. mined from fossilized material. but follow the instructions with any pesticide! I say again. Traps & Companions Traps are another possibility. filtered and than sprayed is the favourite miticide of one crazy Dutchman I know. do not spray buds! Silicon Dioxide A great natural way to kill the little devils is with Silicone Dioxide. People should not be messing around with Malathion or Diazinon. commercial or home made. especially with some elbow grease and a J cloth. also known as diotomecious earth.when they are introduced. and in fact it's best to avoid all chemical solutions. while the dusty . In the stores look for Insecolo. The real key is prevention. avoid! A new organic spray that is very effective is made from orange oils. Its razorlike edges slice the carapace or shell of the mites' bodies and then they dehydrate. Never use systemic pesticides. I strongly recommend that you spray nothing on your buds except the mildest home remedies such as a small amount of Listerine and Sunlight dishsoap dissolved in water and sprayed or scrubbed onto the plants. very convenient for spraying the bottoms of leaves. Put two-sided tape on the walls. as well as on stalks. If in doubt. however I'm not convinced of its effectiveness. Sprinkle this on the leaves and the soil. find out. and dusty millers. I've tried garlic. The mites killed the marigolds in no time. ground pumice. it is called SM90. Insecticidal Soaps and Sprays Eternal vigilance is the cost of freedom from spidermites. Wilson's insecticidal soap does a pretty good job at cleaning them up. I've heard very good reports about it. it's a white dust that attracts the bugs. Pokon is the most popular commercially available mite spray on the market today. even Pokon. It is fairly safe in composition and has the advantage of being in a nifty new aerosol can that can be sprayed upside down. they eat it and then get sliced inside and out. The active ingredient is from a natural source and not harmful to humans. Companion planting is an interesting idea. Spray Solutions Any one of a number of spray solutions may be used to knock down their population to a level where the predators will be able to take over. but wait a few days after spraying before introducing the predators or the residual miticide will also harm them. something that they get stuck in. marigolds.
fire. . as do heavy gusts of wind. For best results the plants should dance inside just as much as they would dance outside. Remember. One grower I know of uses a compressed air blower once a week to blow any mites off of his plants. If you don't have mites. growing inside is the art and science of creating nature. Too much or too little of any one of these will cause difficulties. A healthy plant. If you have mites try not to spread them. earth. so make sure it (and you) have a healthy and balanced diet. Plenty of wind is essential in the grow room. Outdoors Indoors Spider mites are a plague on indoor gardens. You must remember the four basic elements. To grow successfully these elements must be balanced. so put oscillating fans all over the place. take precautions to keep it that way. is less likely to have problems. Of what is up to you. like a healthy person. Frequent spraying of water on plants impedes the mites' progress. and water.millers lived as did the garlic. while outdoors the elements and naturally occurring predators make them less of a threat. and thank your lucky stars. wind. but neither thrived as well as the mites.
you reduce the disruption of the resin heads. Ideally. You will find the larger branches provide adequate strength to support the weight of the plant. you take the heaps of harvested pot inside the shed and hang the plants up by strings or rope. It�s the only way to have a generator operate outdoors�it�s got to be quiet and stealth. every time you touch your plants. I made my first drying shed with a timber frame and covered the walls and roof in heavy-duty black builders plastic. creating an underground shed to house a small generator that provided me with ample electricity for my growing compound�s communications and lighting (as described and pictured in CC #60). I had to be careful not to pull the plants down too soon�act too early and mold can still break out in your buds. only taking out finished product or dried bud ready for manicuring. Harvesting should be straightforward. The following season I developed a method that for my purposes was perfect. drying them as it went. It required money but by that stage I had it. cut off the top half of it and hang the two parts of the plant separately. As I recounted. With this method. I had to shovel big holes and it was backbreaking work. Many people cut the branches off individually but all that does is increase the amount of work you have to do later. yet I have seen so many people do it the wrong way. that lack of planning was disastrous. The very best way is to cut the plants as low to the ground as possible. In the event of heavy rain the plants were protected. 2006) Growing in the bush requires a lot of planning. you are losing and damaging the most valuable part: the trichomes! What I didn�t do the first season was build myself a drying shed. the plants will break either straight away or not at all. and during the day the sides could be lifted to let the cool breeze reach the plants. the more damage you do. As the drying process almost instantly reduces weight. When you have a drying shed on-site. If the plant is big. the pot should be left in total darkness for the whole time of curing. and here's how to harvest properly When you are growing guerilla jungle style you must be set up to process everything in the forest. Sound travels in the forest.How To Harvest Outdoors by Joe Walsh (19 Sept. and as cool as possible as heat destroys the THC. As one plant can have up to ten larger-sized branches on it. . making life harder later on. but being underground muffled the sound of the generator. the more the plant is disturbed during harvest. Remember. I could get 50 pounds (22 kg) of dry weight in 14 days. I excavated the earth. By cutting off the main stems and laying the entire plants on top of each other.
000 pounds of wet bud) without any help at all. What I would do with my next crop is process the shake�as I had had over 2. because mold is rendered harmless and is separated from the trichomes through this method. safe and clean as to be unbeatable. within the bush for the second season even though it . and supplies are always scarce. They could be stored like this for weeks or months. tied the tops. I have seen this at work on-site in the Canadian outback. I ran standard 6-inch diameter clothingdryer ducting from the generator shed into the drying shed. and to change oil every 12 hours�I could dry 50 pounds in three days. I learned from my first season growing in the bush that there are huge losses involved in poor planning. single-handedly drying the entire crop (about 300 pounds dry. The generator had electric lines going to a heap of power outlets that connected industrial fans.000 pounds of it�with the 20-gallon Bubblebag� ice-cold extraction system. I put the buds into chaff bags. When it was time to carry out the finished product. With this set-up. to repeat the process. I used to be very partial to making extracted THC oil using solvents. I was able to stay anonymous. The de-humidifiers would remove moisture from the shed and then the cool air was sucked back into the generator shed. with another length of ducting carrying the cool moist air from the drying shed back to the generator so it could pump a constant stream of warm dry air to the harvested plants. it is still a very efficient and very flexible method for fresh-cut trim. and although the plant material was fresh (it�s better to be dry for the Bubblebags�). Pot damaged by mold is redeemed in some small way when put in the ice-cold extraction bags. I found that leaving them in the bags for a few weeks tended to make the quality a little better. but the ice cold water extraction method is so convenient. circulated by the big industrial fans. which started at around 3. and the product is very quickly turned over as the demand for bubble-hash is great. and then wrapped them in industrial cling wrap. and successful. fast. de-humidifiers and three fluorescent lights controlled by a switch. hot dry air would be sucked into the drying shed. inline fans.I had also brought in a large generator to make the drying shed more efficient. With the generator going 24 hours a day� only stopping the machine to clear vapor locks from the fuel lines.
often rained heavily in the final weeks. and curing your cannabis to a perfect smoke. . scaling harvesting requirements to your ability. Learn from my experiences and next season you can do as I did.
and what to do right When making cannabis oil or extractions. Goodster was getting the very last drop of the honey oil from the Pringles can�which they unwisely used to contain the butane and plant matter� when it jarred on a metal table and created a spark. yet Puff Mama. The process had been completed. resulting in completely blown-up houses. After smoking a doobie with his friend one night and eating Pringles potato chips in the parents� basement. �It would have been fine if the bottom of the Pringles can wasn�t metal . that attended university chemistry classes during the day and �studied� cannabis at night. Early oilmaking technology like the ISO2 extractor were massproduced. there have been hundreds of weed-oil explosions throughout North America over the last 30 years. an old friend of mine was making oil outside with butane. Every cannabis chemist we spoke to has an explosion story. (LaGuardia report) Medicinal cannabis extracts disappeared from store shelves in 1937. much inadequate and misguided information has circulated. The extraction-makers we profile in this article are all smart stoners. You must be ultra-careful when making oil with solvents. the objective is to get really high�safely. but since the heyday of THC extraction in the 1970�s. heat. the duo decided to make honey oil. There are many ways to mess up! The original reefer revolutionaries of cannabis extraction were scientists. 2006) A few examples of what can go wrong. For example. severe physical burns. and a hazardous environment requires attentiveness. The LaGuardia Mayor�s Committee provided cannabis extracts to New York City prisons in the 1930�s and 40�s. was printing almost a million copies.How To Make Weed Oil Without Blowing Yourself Up by Matt Mernagh (19 Sept. and sold extensively. Michigan with plants known as Cannabis Americana. I found it impossible to locate a cannabis alchemist who isn�t sporting burn scars or fondly recalling the time so-and-so went up in flames. he lit a joint� and BOOM! The spark ignited fumes in the air and nearly blew him apart. life-threatening injuries. advertised in High Times. He had been standing in the fan�s air path and assumed he was safe. Eli Lily and Parke-Davis jointly ran a farming co-operative in Rochester. DO NOT MAKE MARIJUANA EXTRACTS! Controlling solvents. such as those employed by Eli Lily and Parke-Davis Company up to 1938. Stepping slightly back from the table. and/or occasionally leave the Volcano vaporizer on until the balloon is about to burst. but the gear hadn�t been put away. Consequently. When making extractions. by 1977. and Chris Goodwin all faced serious cannabis catastrophe. Cannabis extracts revived in the 1970�s facilitated by High Times Magazine. and recreational use of cannabis was unusual outside of jazz clubs and working-class black and Hispanic neighborhoods. and even death� which are all tragedies used as arguments by prohibitionists against marijuana use in general. The invention of the Internet accelerated the exchange of oil-making ideas. Brian. Eli Lily supplied the Office of Strategic Services (now the Central Intelligence Agency) with �potent marijuana oil created as a truth drug for interrogation purposes�. which. are easily confused about explosive chemicals. Fans still blew behind him as he checked out the end product. have difficulty following directions. Never assume! Up In Smoke Cafe proprietor Chris �Goodster� Goodwin is a honey oil head. If you�re slightly careless with measurements. used for medicinal extracts from 1913 to 1938. �red oil concentrates were used along with marijuana� to get the prisoners to talk about crimes or provide information they had not yet confessed. you MUST approach with caution. partial neighborhood blocks going up in flames.
Set up somewhere with ample ventilation and more than one exit. similar to a lava lamp. Eliminating solvents just perfectly. is a critical part of the process. even outdoors. but it went WHOOSH again!� Luckily. without setting oneself on fire. Slowly pour isopropyl alcohol up to a level slightly above the top of the trimmings. or something else that creates heat with NO open flame (this is VERY important). obtain three glass beakers or bowls. it creates fumes that can ignite an explosion with even the smallest spark or flame. The vapors came out of a twelveinch tower of carbon. invest money into ordering proper lab equipment online or from a science retailer. It is HIGHLY recommended that you always make oil OUTSIDE! When alcohol or gas is heated. stirring as the alcohol slowly evaporates. the resins take on a dark brown color characteristic of hash oil.7% isopropyl) was placed in the basin of the metal container and heated by the bulb underneath. and very carefully pour the butane down the tube. �The base sparked on the table and the thing just went WHOOOSH. Fill a tube or hose-like container with trim or bud. All cannabis cooking. Pour the liquid through the screen into a second piece of glassware. As it runs through the . you use the same sort of process. fill one piece of glassware with plant matter and secure the mesh screen over the top with packing tape. so in the ISO2 the vapor �melted� the resin. The runnier or greener the oil is. they managed to put out the fire. like moonshining.7%).� the sound Goodster uses to describe the flaming experience of honey oil going off in his face. As this happens.� Goodster says. and gently shake the container to coat the marijuana with alcohol. Suspended above the alcohol was a halforb mesh strainer filled with marijuana. which are widely available these days. Fumes can also cut off the flow of oxygen to the brain. How to Make Oil The cannabis chemist is seeking to obtain the purest THC content for their oil while also providing a sweet taste to their product. which can result in the chemist pass-ing out onto their lab equipment� so make sure you wear a gas mask. a coffee machine base. Had Goodster gone to science class a few more times he might have learned better safety precautions and obtained the necessary glassware required to contain the volatile oilmaking mix of plant matter and butane! If you�re serious about making honey oil. because THC resin is heavier than alcohol or butane gas (which is also used to make oil�we�ll go over that soon) it will sink to the bottom of the new glass container. The ISO2 was a fairly safe extracting device with a light bulb under the base connected to a dimmer switch. Pour the liquid into a new container and back into another. some mesh screen that is NOT made of metal (once again. You will need a SAFE heat source to make oil.too. In your chosen well-ventilated spot. and then the alcohol evaporated into the air or was heated gently until only the THC oil remained. I dropped the can. Alcohol (99. Position the tube in or above a large glass container. When alcohol is heated it turns into a vapor and rises. the poorer the quality. Many cannabis cookers work with two fans behind them to keep fumes going downwind. Allow for a complete evaporation of solvents before harvesting your oil from the container. and packing tape�not duct tape. inert and odorless. which then dropped into the alcohol. should be done far away from other people so if something goes wrong you�re the only one to suffer the consequences. this is VERY important!). Use a lava lamp stand. After 30 to 60 minutes all the resin was transferred to the remaining alcohol in the basin. When you�re planning to make weed oil with isopropyl alcohol (99. To make oil with butane. until the color of the liquid begins to change to amber. �Naturally. and attach a non-metal screen to the bottom with packing tape. Then place it on your heat source.
After his recovery. Puff also turned her tragedy into a marijuana opportunity by hosting an extravagant fundraising effort to pay her kitchen replacement and legal bills. Upon his release. Then follow the same heating and evaporation process as isopropyl. her kitchen was ruined and she was charged for �possession�. is how pot gets in chocolate!) All cannabis used for cooking should be fully dried and free of mold. But being a weed wizard indeed. resin glands are dissolved along the way and carried out with the butane. Of course. one year later Brian is healthy and looks scar-free. She knew it was safe to turn the stove heat down to LOW and leave for a bit. ala Emeril or The Iron Chef. Puff Mama reminds everyone to make sure you watch the heat! CannaButter Ingredients: � 1 lb unsalted butter � dried cannabis (see * below) � 4 .trimmings. Puff Mama�s �Burning Down The House� CannaButter Puff Mama is another talented cannabis chef. 768 Queen Street East in Toronto. Toronto Police. fans. but unfortunately that ended one fateful day in 2005. She has a pro kitchen with two stoves. she accidentally turned the stove on HIGH! The Toronto Fire Department had arrived to put out the fire. then the Toronto Police showed up and cleaned out the contents of her fridges. He also has a respectable ten years� experience in the oil business. he turned his personal tragedy into opportunity by becoming a super-chef supplier of baked goods: Mr. which can be used in any food preparation (and this. two fridges. �how does she get pot into muffins and chocolate? � Because of a simple mistake. and stainless steel pots and pans. his hands were a �peelingbandaged. With cannabis use and tender loving care. Ontario. which he did often. It should be ground up to crumbs.horror-moviemess� and he is permanently physically scarred by his fiery experience. an air conditioner. when she came home from a pleasant meal she found her home on fire. but his hands became a fireball that quickly covered his entire body. Unfortunately. the flammable substance he was evaporating suddenly went one degree too hot� and BOOM! The oil burst into flames and he threw the pot from the stove. chemicals and/or debris. and what remains will be sweet honey oil! Mr. but not dust. Her new store Clandestiny is a hemp-friendly location with plenty of treats.5 L water . Since then she�s opened Clandestiny and offers baked goods for sale (see her ad at the beginning of the magazine). wondering. Cookie�s Misfortune Brian is a great chef who knows how to cook up a storm. Puff Mama decided to go out and have sushi with her mom while a batch of cannabutter slowly simmered in a pot on the stove. While making oil. Take the bowl and repour it through the tube into another container. You can experience delicious treats from Mr. She�s also a pot professional with a disastrous cannabiscooking story of her own to tell. Cookie. Here Puff Mama shares her recipe for cannabutter. Cookie at �Clandestiny�. She realized that when she ran out the door to see her mom. Canada. Ontario hospital where he spent weeks in intensive care. spider mites. and repeat the process until the residue begins to take on a deep amber color. His burns and injuries were so life threatening he was flown 150 miles to a Hamilton.
The butter will want to cling between the leaves. as butter will go bad. vodka. Don�t let the sides fall in. and a steak will go nicely with cannabis brandy sauce! Mixing store-bought alcohol with bud is rather easy. brandy. and if you leave it for up to three months. Line it with a large piece of cheesecloth. You can dump the water and store the butter in the fridge. Use the potato masher against the colander to squeeze out the precious juices. and all the THC is in the butter. trim from buds Mild: 28 g Strong: 56 g Regular cannabis buds Mild: 14 g Strong: 28 g Powerful cannabis or hash Mild: 7 g Strong: 14 g Directions: 1) Place butter. Using the spoon. 4) Wrap the mixture tight and squeeze every last drop of juice out. The butter and water will separate. you get a . 3) When you are ready to strain. some stems Mild: 120 g Strong: 250 g Leaves. whisky. then refrigerate the liquid in the pot. 5) Throw out the contents of the cheesecloth. slowly pour the brew into the cheesecloth. Rum. freeze it. leaves Mild potency use: 225 grams Strong potency use: 450 g Mostly leaves. seeds.� 1 large stockpot � a 2nd pot or large bowl � a colander (spaghetti strainer) that will fit in the 2nd pot or bowl � a large piece of cheesecloth � a big spoon and potato masher * If you have: Stems. put the pot on a large element on the lowest setting possible. Irish cream�whatever you like. Canna-Rum or Cooking Brandy A mint julip packs a bit more punch if you replace the mint with bud. and water in a large stockpot.8 hours. Tequila is an excellent alcohol for absorbing THC. it�ll safely dissolve THC from cannabis over several days. cannabis. 2) Simmer for 6 . If you don�t plan to use it within a week. put the colander over the second pot or bowl. rye. Stir every 1/2 hour.
or those just seeking a good night�s sleep! However. The G -13 Church of the Universe produces the finest religious tinctures while fighting The Man. (Though the cannabis community showed some astonishment regarding the uniformity of Sativex�. medicate. which is what the five per cent of people who use the tinctures are looking for. is the only corporation in the world permitted to legally grow voluminous amounts of cannabis. Pharmaceuticals. we had a lovely summer drink using the tincture with lemons. This reefer religion stronghold�s tinctures are so powerful that only a few members opt to use them. you need to get about ten to fifteen very dry.� Clearly not intended for newbies. you get shit out.W. the more it will break down and release its many valuable cannabinoids. Though patients have the option of getting a Sativex� prescription. Sativex and Cannabis Sprays The Canadian medical marijuana movement has many clubs producing their own medical sprays.W. And it�s no secret we�re following Ed Rosenthal�s recipes. Several Compassion Clubs began canna-spray research using Jamaican 150-proof rum to dissolve the plant trimmings. and other med-pot jurisdictions are doing so without permits. Most compassion clubs now use medical or food-grade alcohol to make their tinctures and mists. as those who down a whole tincture are known to trance out into a lucid commune-with.very powerful and smooth drink. Purchase all the ingredients for your desired drink and obtain about 1/4 to a half ounce of primo bud. And they�re not doing so for medical reasons: this tincture is for Spiritual Exploration. G. �Just yesterday. British Columbia. but one spray can costs $125 in Canada (the only market where it is prescribed legally). ganja generic knocks-offs from Compassion Clubs taste. at affordable prices too. ala Romans versus Catholics. The longer the cannabis is in the liquor. If you put shit in. trying to avoid disturbing the resin glands. Oregon. well-cured smaller buds into a bottle of booze. and sell it.God state. �What you want is an euphoric state. If possible. and mist better. and to experience the entire spiritual aspects of the cannabis plant. Sativex� is the only pharmaceutical spray on the market using whole cannabis resin extract. the historical information available suggests that cannabis spray uniformity has been around since the turn of the century. Unfortunately. that alcohol was neither a suitable medicinal binding agent nor strong enough for med pot patients. California. this will transfer the THC into the alcohol.� The local liquor outlet sells 95. just drop the buds right down the neck of the bottle. �You can use them anyway you like. people could be perfecting cannabis sprays for the benefit of the ill. they allow several days of extraction and/or cooking. To make canna-liquor. The Sacrificial Tinctures of G-13 Located in the hippie enclave of Toronto�s Beaches neighborhood. the tinctures can also be mixed into summer drinks. The bud creates a more lucid state. but we use only the finest of bud.) The unfair advantage goes to G. Reverend Peter of the G-13 Church of the Universe says. and that�s why we don�t use leaf. Pharmaceuticals because they produce Sativex� in legal environs while compassionate chemists in Ontario. Reverend Peter says the Church is really . G-13 prefers food-grade alcohol to break down their product versus 150-proof rum. the makers of Sativex� prescription cannabis spray. bust down and stabilize the molecular structure.proof food-grade alcohol to the Church for their tinctures. Trim to fit if need be! Shake�do not stir�the bottle every day once the bud is inside.� he explains of the sacrificial substance. With government licenses.
�We cook it for five days. then we can use it for making chocolates. Just dump some oil in.getting famous for its extra-virgin olive oil. bhangs� and some people even put it in their coffee.� .� he concludes. it�s really very good. There�s no secret here. �Just always use great bud.