This six-wheel lorry makes a fine



* Design
Sheet FREE Inside


HIS. sturdy pull-along toy is a companion to the timber drug which is the subject of Hobbies' design sheet No. 2918. The construction is quite simple, and it is made throughout from tin. wood with tin. square stnp for the axles. The 'load' of wood blocks is made from Iin. square strip, and the kit conta ins a length of this wood sufficient to make 16- coloured blocks.


method dear. It is made up oC pieces 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10. Piece 1 is the main chassis and pieces 2 the axle bars, while pieces 3, 4 and 6 make the radiator and 5, 7 and 10 the cab. Pieces 8 and 9 make the seat. A few fretpins -should be used as well

rrns ISSUE
Page 337 338 339 340 341· 342 343 344 346 351

How to Start To begin, transfer the patterns-to -the wood and then cut all the pieces- out. Clean them up ready for assembly. The lorry section proper is assembled first, and reference to Fig. 1 will make the
tIll c-orrespondenc .. should be addressed

Pall-Along Toy • . - " Making" No.elty Towel Fix Ln." About Artistty io TinfOliI • A Multi-Pu,p doe Hanging Cabinet A Powder-Box lor a Lady. -Make a Folding Art Table - Replies 01 Interest - - _. An Easily Made CoH-Wind.,· Bookstand Book Ends - • Patterns for Lady's POwder Box-

as glue in assembly to ensure a job strong enough to withstand subse-quent rough handling. . The trailer section is assembled as in Fig. 2, and is made up of pieces 2, It. 12, -13, 14 and 15. Pieces 11 and 12 comprise the main chassis, with the piece 2 again serving as an axle bar, while the truck part proper is made of pieces t J, 14 and 15. This boxlike section is made up complete before being glued and screwed to the pieces 12 on the main chassis.
Pivot the Trailer

A small peg 1:in. long, and cut from waste wood and rounded, is glued into the hole in piece 11 so that it projects tin. This enables the trailer to be pivoted to the lorry by dropping the peg

to The Editor,


Weekly, D"r.,ham,


into the slot in piece I. The peg should net be a tigh; fit in the lorry chassis or the performance of the toy will be affected. The trailer should be a ble to pivot easily if the toy is to function properly. , When all is complete, lit the wheels temporarily and make sure that the

choose good quality enamels, but for the more impati"ertt.··· cellulose. is recommended, as it dries quickly with- a smo 0 th finish. ~. When the wbole thing is d.fy,replace the. wheels-which will also have been painted, of course-c-and the lorry is ready for use. It remains, however, to

stance, have foUL red blocks, four blue blocks, Jour yellow blocks and four green ones. SUch a combination would make a colourful 'Io'lld' and the blocks would, of course, have a separate interest to the cbild When not in use with the lorry and trailer. The blocks completed and dry, they

whole thing runs evenly. Then remove the wheels again and prepare the jo b for painting. A good rub down with glasspaper will provide the right surface. Choice of colours is a matter for the individual worker, but he should see that they are bright and attractive, as children tire quickly of any toy which is dull. Two or three coats of good quality paint should be used in order to ensure a smooth soLid surface, Each coat should be left until it is 'thoroughly dry, and light glasspapering between each will improve the finished appearance. The use of a good woodfiller before painting will ensure an even smoother surface.: Most workers will

provide it with a load, and for. this you require 16 lin. square blocks. Those. who have purchased a kit to make the toy will have found a suitable piece of lin. square strip wood included. When the stripwcod has been cut into the required lengths, smooth each block with glasspaper and prepare for painting. Again vgood quality, enamels or cellulose paint should be used. . The usualprocedure is'to use three or four different-coloured paints so that the result is a number of differentcoloured blocks. One might, for in-

can be loaded into the trailer and the toy is finished. A screw eye in the bottom front of 'the . radiator and a length of string provide the necessary 'rnotive' power. .

For making this toy you can obtain a Kit (No, 3044). con~ining aU necessary materials, including sill; wood wheels, from any Hobbies Branch, or post free from Hobbies Ltd.cDereham, Norfolk, price 6/5, includi ng IL,.,

) ) )





HIS fitting is designed to hold hand towels or tea towels in a suitable position for drying out. When the towel is required, a simple tup and it is free. Yet there is no danger of It falling out on its own. To make, you need a rubber ball with a fairly thick wall, about 2ins. or 3in8. in diameter, or an old tennis ball. Care,


Mal~ing a Novelty Towel Fix

There is still time to enter Hobbies Grand Fretwork Competitinn for which prizes valued at over £tOO are being awarded. The closing date is April 30th. 'For free details, write to the. Editor, Hobbies Weekly, Dereham, Norfolk,

fully cut the ball in half to form two hemispheres. Now bend a Ll-shaped strip Of metal to fit snugly inside each hemisphere, as shown in the second sketch. The ball can be locked to the fitting with two tiny nuts and bolts. The protruding ends of the metal strip are then drilled or pierced to take woodscrews which are used for mounting the fitting in 3 suita ble place. The front of the hemisphere is then 338

silt with two crossing cuts at right angles to each other. This can be done wi~h a sharp knife. The fitting is now complete and ready for use. A corner of a towel pushed into the slits will be gripped and held tightly, allowing the towel to drape down. A tug on the towel releases it. The other hemisphere cut from your ball can be USed to make another fitting, or screwed down to the floor, curved surface up, to form a doorstop.

(R.H.W ..)



Learn About Artistry
ICfURES made with co.loured tinfoil - usually known as '§lIver paper' -have something quite distinctive about them. No gradations of light and shade can be included in them, but as a compensation they seem more 'live', lending coJour and brightness to the drabbest surroundings. Materials to make these pictures are simple arid. inexpensive. A collection of dlfferent-coloured fojls both large and small; some flat glass and some clock and watch glasses; a tin of black enamel and a fine artist's brush; some cardboard, gum, a few offcuts of Perspex, passe-partout, and some plaster of Paris just about concludes the list. The- finished pictures are great money-spinners, commanding as much as ten shillings for II small brooch to two or three guineas for a 6in5. wall plaque. The fiat pictures executed on window glass come a little cheaper, merely because of their conventional shape. In this short series of articles you will see how you can turn out really beautiful work quite easily. Let us start by making a flat picture .




designs incorporating solid areas of colour with not too much' intricate detail can be:found in most of the more expensive journals. As shown in Fig. I, the picture to be copied is held in place

Care is taken to see that the design is not too near the edge of the glass. Room must be allowed for tin. of passepartout which is applied in the final stages.





Fig. 2

For this you will require a piece of glass about 12i05. by 9ins. A piece out of an old picture frame' will do. A glazier will cut it for you for a few coppers. This is washed in warm soapy water and polished with the aid of french chalk. On one side of it the outlines of the proposed picture are painted, using ordinary black enamel (not cellulose) and a fine brush. If an original picture is not contemplated one can be traced. Suitable

Fig. 3

underneath the glass by spring pegs. The painted lines should be fairly bold and must be made dense using the enamel freely. The- outlines should include all those dividing different areas of colour.

When painting. it is best to hold the glass in one hand so that it slopes towards you. The edge of a table then acts as a support for the hands. After (Continued on page 341)


A Multi-Purpose Hanging Cabinet
against the time when they are wanted. Nobody knows quite where to look when-that time does come! Dimensions .Main dimensions are, given in- Fig. I. This should be studied in conjunction with the exploded view of the assemblyFig. 2-which details dimensions of the individual pieces. Note the extra width required for the top, shelf and bottom when laying out these components, this to accommodate the edge curve corresponding to a pitch of iin. and a curve radius of 12ins. This curve can easily be marked out with a pencil lied to a 12ins. length of string. More important than getting the curve exactly tight is to get the same curve on all three pieces. The two sides can be assembled on the base, using blOCKS (A) to strengthen tbe joints. Use pins or small screws as well as glue for additional strength, if desired. The back 'panel can then be added, fitting snugly between the two sides. If cut truly square this will automatically ensure a square assembly, Squareness in the other direction is ensured by mounting the shelf at this stage, after first cutting the rebate along the front (curved) edge . The top is grooved, as shown, to fit over the two sides. A simi-lar rebate, tin. wide; should be CUt along the back edge between groove positions, also to a depth of tin., to accommodate the back panel. When glued in place thi!j should form a particularly strong assembly, if done with care. The gusset blocks can then be added to reinforce the corner joints and aLsoeliminate a dust-trapping edge at the back or the-assembly. To complete the basic assembly, glue panels (B) in place between the shelf and bottom, making sure that they are truly vertical and spaced exactly 4ins. apart, These are slightly oversize and will project beyond the line of the sheff and bottom. Trim down flush when set, also (Continued 0/1 page 343)

RIMARILY the function of this attractive hanging cabinet is decorative, but the front drawer also makes it a useful store for those .odds and ends which usually, and inevitably, seem to collect in ash-trays. vases, etc.,










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Pig. 2

Pig. 1


- . The box is made up of three ,I.ings of tin . wo ed , gl ued to gether as d irected, and then cfeanedround wi(·h coarse-and 'fine glasspaper inside and out. Tlie :r~,sulting .tu be isthen glued to' a" base of -!l11D· wood cut to the outline given, having been drawn in with compasses set to che centre shown,' e.. ,. The top of the box rs similar to the base, but has an inner disc cut round at (A), th!s piece being laterglued on to the underside of the, liflo to hold it in position . when 'placed on' the box. The sectional diagram on the left of the sheet of patterns shows the :x:etative positionsgof the various parts. ':. Glue the top (ring) to the box, then make the lid. A half pattern is given of this with centre marked for striking the circle. Now glue the piece (A) on, as mentioned, and proceed to cut the overlay for the top to the complete pattern given.

ERE is an ideal gift for a lady. It is made from tin., ifin. and tin. wood, and patterns are given in .th is issue.


A Powder-Box for
on Page 351

~ l

a Lady

The hole in the ~~n~t(e of tile overlay is intended to receive the knob for lifting off the [i~ This knob can be .obtained from Hobbies Limited. A soft wood is suitable for the iin. rings of the

box, with a ha~er wood for the other parts, Oil paint i.1 pastel shades can be used for the box part with varnish; perhaps, for the base and the lid. (S.W.c.)

Artistry in Tinfoil
(Col1tinuedjrom, the outline has been completed the pegs and paper are carefully removed and the glass is put in a dry dust-free atmosphere ana left for about twelve hours. This allows the enamel to become tacky, an ideal foundation for the coloured foils, " The latter can be used in their smooth, shiny state, and if some of them are wrinkled they can be smoothed by rubbing them on a piece of glass. However, it is sometimes more effective with some designs to use a really rough-surfaced foil, as in the case ·of walls of cottages, seascapes, trees, etc. Such- foi I is often fo und in cigarette packages and on sweet wrappings. But all types of foils can be bought atgood craft shops for a bout ftvepence fOL a large sheet. A razor-blade is the only tool required in the' 'process of creating the picture. . It is best to deal with the smallest areas of colour in the picture first. As an example the heads and tail feathers in the completed lower part of the picture, shown in Fig. 2, were done first. A piece of foil is cut a little bigger in' area than that which it is required to fill. It is then pressed- on to tbe enamel lines page 339) on the glass in the appropriate place with the colo ured si de of the foil against the lines. Holdin g the glass in t he left hand, with the foil on the surface furthest away, it is an easy matter to trace round the area of COLOlU with the razor-blade, a shown in Fig. 2. This operation is done slowly, and it will be found that keeping to the outside of the enamel lines is much more simple than imagined. The unwanted border of foil is peeled off after the cutting is finished. It is best to use a pair of tweezers for [his to avoid contact with the enamel. if areas of colour are very tiny-for example; the birds eyes (Fig. 2)-il is mud, easier to cut these areas away from the piece of foil already in position (the piece representing the bird's head) and then to fix a small piece' of foil of the requited colour in position, USing photo-mounting paste. This can only be done if these very tiny areas 0 f colour are within. .other and larger areas. Otherwise the normal procedure is followed. For cutting very small areas in foil it is best to break the razor-blade in order to give a pointed cutting tool. ~arge areas of colour, .such as sky, sea, or, fields, are done last of all. Only 341

"one piece of foil for, say, a sky, will be necessary, since it can be pasted behind the colour areas already executed. This follows in most designs since they nearly all have a definite background or predominant colour. Finally the picture is mounted on a stout piece of card equipped with a prong-type picture-hanger and finished with passe-partout, The card must be exactl}'the same size as the glass, and before the picture is. mounted the flattened prongs of the picture-hanger should be protected with a thin piece of tissue paper. Photomounting paste is then applied- Liberally to the card and the picture fixed firmly in place, This is done by putting a flat-iron on top of the 'glass ar.d card unt i I the paste has set. ·1 in. wide passe-partout is then fixed -to the. back 'Of the card, leaving 11:il1. overlap all round the edges. These overlaps are then moistened and folded over on to the front of the glass after having dusted the latter with french chalk to kill any grease. If desired, the corners of the passe-partout can be rriitred at 45' degrees to give a cleaner appearance to tbe fin ished picture. ' In the next=article we shall see how wall plaques similar to that shown in Fig. 3 can be made, using the principles explained here. (G.A.)



a Folding Art Table
quality deal can be recommended. The underpart of the table consists of a main back frame, to which a pair of folding legs are hinged. Fig. I shows the main frame, left, and the left side folding leg. All these frames look neater if mortised and tenoned to~ether, and that method of Jointing is suggested. Where appearance is not considered important enough to warrant the work, tbe joints can well be the common simple halflaps. If mo rtising a nd te non ing is decided on, the tenons in all cases need be no longer than J in, and shouldered at top and bottom. The. shape recommended is shown by dotted outline on the drawing .of the folding leg. Build up the folding legs similarly to the main frame. Both are the same height as the main frame, but where the left side one is shown as Ift. 5~ins. wide, the right side one is Itins. less, Ift. 4ins. to be exact. All three should be closely jointed, and well glued. To the main frame, a bracket (A) is to be screwed where shown, each side. Cut the brackets. from tin. thick wood, and glue and screw in position. Against the drawn above the front view of it in Fig. I, and will make the foregoing details plain. Now, with a pair of 2inS. iron or brass butt hinges, hinge the foldin!? legs to the main frame, The left SIde leg is positioned at right angles to the frame, against the bracket.. See it is parallel to the left side of the frame. and there hinge it, as in detail Pig. 2. To better ensure it being truly parallel, it would be a good .idea to temporarily nail a short


HIS design of t:ble is a popular one in school art classes, and is worth reproducing for the benefit of readers who practise such arts as . dr-awing and painting in their homes. It is comparatively light to handle and carry about, and folds up flat, so occupies little space in the home when




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Fig. 4

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Fig. I right side bracket, nail a strip of tin. wood, as shown at (B). This strip is exactly Itins. wide, and to it the right side foldin~ leg will subsequently be hinged. It IS important to fit the strip truly parallel with the edge of the main frame. A plan view of this main frame is

Dot in use. It can also be used for modelling on, in fact, any craft where hammering and thumping are absentthe table not being designed for that. A cutting list is included, from which the necessary lengths of timber can be obtained. For construction, pine or good

bit of the tin. wood at the bottom of the frame, directly in line with the bracket above, a.nd keep the leg pressed against both while hinging. The second hinge can be futed opposite the lower" crossbar of the frame. The right side leg is hinged to strip (B), as shown in Fig. 3. Both legs should now fold together inwards to the frame. The table top, Fig. 4, is made of two

(Continued on page 346)



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w_ ~..,

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I, '

OULD you. please. su.pp/y. m,e with a formula for making white ink? (O.S.-,- Washington). HITE ink may be made by grinding finely powdered zinc oxide' or magnesium carbonate with mucilage of gum tragacanth or of gum arabic. Gum tragacanth mucilage may be made by leaving I gram of the powdered gum with 100 c.c, of water in the, oven until an even jelly-like mucilage is formed (usually overnight); stir often and make up any water lost by evaporation. Gum arabic mucilage exists ready formed in the ordinary 'office' mucilage gum. Thin the ink with water until the right rate of flow is obtained. If gum tragacanth is used; add a few drop; of


White Ink.

oil of cloves or chloroform 10 preserve it. Separation of the pigment may occur in time, hence' it should be stirred or shaken up before use.

laboratory wash bottle (obtainable from any laboratory furnisher) and allow to dry, This will answer for either permanent or temporary hard water. Temporary hard-water stains may be removed by sponging with a dilute acid, such as: -1. 10 e.c, glacial acetic add mixed with 90 c,c. water, 2. 5 c.c, strong hydrochloric acid mixed With 95 c.c, water. 'Femporary hard water is softened by boiling; permanent is not.

Water Marks


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Glazing Pbotograpbs
DO not know how to get a glossy effect on the photographs [develop. Please tell/me 0/ a way to do this. (L. Portdinorwim. -

INDL Y tell me how I may remove , . hard-water marks from clear glass fiower vases and water jugs. (F.S.~ Epping). of the stains depends on the type ot hard water; prevention is the best method, After washing .and draining the glassware, spray all over with distilled water from an ordinary




perfectly dean glass. If the glass is quite dean the prints peel off as they dry with a beautifully glazed surface,

.gloss can be, obtained by A HIGHdown into tight contact witha rolling the wet prints (with squeegee)

A Hanging Cabinet
(Continued/rom page 340) trimming off the front edges of blocks (A) to conform to the base curve,

The drawer is made next, dimensioned as in Fig, 3, Any suitable material can be' used, 1\:in. thickness being recommended for the individual panels when plain glued joints should be adequate. Note that the front is formed by two tin, square spacers, top and bottom, at this stage. When the drawer has set, assemble in the main cabinet, relieving the, width slightly, as required, for a nice sliding fit, Push right home and mark accurately the line of the base and shelf curve. The front of the drawer is now trimmed down to conform to this curve, remembering that it- is also to be covered with win. ply and due allowance for this thickness must be made in working -to the marked-out bottom curved line, Finishing stages are summarised in Fig, 4, With the drawer in place, cover the drawer front with a panel of win . .plywood cut to exact size, Side panels are then finished off by coverin!l with contrasting the grain, as preferred, Feather 'the outer edges of these final ply panels to blend witli. the edges of the sides. Glue joints should be adequate for holding the ply in place. (R.H,W;)
similar ply panels, either m"u.;I!L!L~ "'"

Fig. 3

Fig. 4




Wiuder An Easily Milde Coil~
one's own coils is a beneficial experience for the Tad io enthusiast. With a little care and patience, coils can be wound by hand with results of which the hobbyist can be justly proud. But there inevitably comes a time when winding by hand is 1(10 tedious and slow; and when transformers and chokes are attempted. some.; mechanical method is indicated, The coil-winder which is the subject of this article is, therefore, recommended to the reader. Although it is not cornpletely automatic, it will be found to be a great boon. and will make the process of coil-winding decidedly quicker and easier. It has the advantages of being easy to build and inexpensive. The whole coil-winder is made up of



1. Tbe Rotating Assembly

_,. The rotating machine proper is an old hand-drill. This was converted by sawing off a portion of the wooden side handle or grip: This produced a Hat base, on which the drill rests and is held to the base bo ard by a 'screw t h [0 u gil the bottom of the board, as will be seen in Fig. 1. Alternatively, if you have 00 such side grip available, you can use an ordinary bolt and a block of wood. The height of the drill above the baseboard depends on the diameter of the biggest coil-former you might possibly use. For instance, if you might want a 3ins. diameter coil, the height of the drill chuck centre above the board could be 2ins. (ltins. radius, plus tin. clearance). So the height measurement in F:ig. 1 can


Interposed between the two pulleys is a wooden spacer (X) cut off. again, from dowel or broom-shank. Its width should be lin. The two pulleys and spacer are d rllled with 1,; in. holes and are situated on the brass rod to leave about I in. of the rod free. -They are held .ill place by a washer and nut at each 'end. The nuts are tightened up with the aid of spanners .very tightly, and will hold the pulleys and spacer quite firmly, so. don't bother gluing up the separate parts. Another washer is slipped over the long end of the screwed roil, and then another large disc (H) is added. This is tin. thick plywood. It is made by, first, taking a compass and describinga series of concentric circles each, increasing in radius by tin., until you reach the maximum coil diameter you might need. Drill a -Jl,in. hole atthe centre to take

Fig. 1

Fig. 3

Fig. 4

Fig. 2 three separate parts. Part one is the rotating assembly which holds the coilformer and rotates it to wind the wire on 10 it. Part two is the guiding assembly which' moves the wire along as it winds on tp the coil-former. Part three is that which holds the wire bobbin and conrrols the tension of the wire. In describing the construction, each part shall be de~t with in turn. But before we proceed, we must first have a baseboard on which to' mount the parts. Any flat rigid board will do, but an old half-imperial drawing-board, of no further use, was found to be ideal. This measures 16ins. by 23ins. by tin. 'thick. Anything" approachingthis size will do.

be altered to suit your own requirements. (IIi Pig. I the assembly could take a 4ins. diameter eoil.) The same observations apply to the length of the coil former-this depends on the length 'of the 2 B.A. (~in.) screwed brass rod (R). In Fig. I this rod is 7ins. long and will enable, formers 3i'ns. long to, be. wound, Longer coils can be undertaken. simply by using a Ionger brassrod,' The two pulley wheels (P, P) are each made -up of two circular discs of plywood tin. or 1I10re thick, enclosing a lin. 'or tin. disc of I in. diameter (a piece sawn off lin. dowel or broom sliank will do). The inner edges of the -larger outside 'discs should 'be srpoothed off so as not to chafe the d rivi ng belt. .344

'the brass rod and saw out -the final outer shape of the disc. This can be circular, but it is easier merely to saw out a square and then take off the corners to produce the octagon shape as-shown in , Fig. 6. A second similar disc is also needed. These discs hold the coil-former between them (F), and the circles drawn on them are a means of cent~ing ~e coil-former. All one has to de IS to see that the former is sitting nicely in .the concentric circle nearest to its own ' diameter. . After, the former and the second

holding disc (H) comes another washer, andthen a 1in. long spacer (S). The hole through the spacer should, of course, be -&io., and the outside diameter ,\-in. or thereabouts, It should, preferably, be of metal, as it also acts as a bearing shaft uport which tbe assembly rotates. But any hard substance will do, wood, ebonite, etc., as there is not much weight or-wearing effect, This bearing or spacer passes through (A2) (which we shall deal with presently), then comes another washer, and finally a nut. This latter, on being tightened up, holds the whole arrangement completely firm. The first stock (A ,), on which the assembly rests and is aligned, is made from tin. plywood and 1in. square spar screwed together. The width of the stock can be 2tins., but the height will depend on your requirements, as stated before. A hole is bored in the top part of the plywood to fit the neck of the drill (K). The stock finally is secured to the baseboard by a screw, as shown. The second stock (A2) is made in a similar way, only 1M is time the hole bored must fit the diameter of the spacer (S), Further" the batten to which the plywood part is attached should be 2ins. or 2"in5. wide, and. a slot cut in it as shown in Fig. 7. This takes the bolt and butterfly nut (B). This little arrangement is necessary to facilitate the removal of the coil former.
2. The Guiding Assembly

also about tin., pointing towards the centre of the disc (i.e., they should be radial). The hole through the centre of the discs should be such as to enable the pulley to rotate freely on the spacer on which it is placed. This spacer should be of metal or ebonite, etc., and I tins. long if the pulley inner disc is tin. wide, or lin. if tin. wide. The three discs composing the pulley must be glued together or screwed. and the inner edges of the outer discs

screwed rod turns, and, therefore, the guide moves laterally along the rod. The Uvshaped piece (0), which actually holds the wire, is made out of a long-headed screw eye, The bottom of the eye (the Shoulder) is well soldered, and afterwards the top sawn off with a hacksaw to produce the V shape. Round off the tops. The drawings in Fig. 5 show the construction of the clutch, It is made from Iin. by i·in, close-textured hard wood, and is !in. longer than the diameter of the outer disc of the pulley. (The size of this is discussed later.) Draw a central

Fig. 6


- - - - ,It
Fig. 5

Fig. 7

Here, again, the central shaft consists of 7ios. of screwed brass rod (2 B.A.). This will be adequate for formers up to 3ins. long. For longer formers, the rod will need to be correspondingly longer. An important feature in this assembly is the dutch (C). (Its structure will be dealt with presently.) This is fixed securely to the brass rod by nuts (E), and the two rotate together. On either side of the clutch, and separated by washers, are two pulleys '(P, Pl. These, however, are free, being mounted on spacers on the brass rod. A pulley can only move round with the clutch and rod when it is engaged by the clutch through the lever (L). This latter slips into slots sawn into the rim of the pulley about every tin. (See Fig. 10.) It is kept in place by the spring shown, and can be raised, to disengage one pulley, and turned over to engage the pulley on the opposite side, where it again is kept in place by the spring. (This takes only a split second to perforrn.) This mechanism means that while one pulley is engaged, the other runs free and unaffected by the movement of the screwed rod (R). The pulleys are made in a manner similar to those previously described. The inner discs which take the driving belts are again tin. ot -lin. thick, but the diameter will be discussed later, as it is an important consideration. The outer discs can be lin. thick. Saw the slots

Fig. 8

Fig. 9

Fig. 10

Fig. II

rounded off to prevent chafing the driving belt, Reference to Fig, 8 will show how to make the wire guide proper. Plywood about f~in. will do, measuring Iin. by liins. Bore a hole through the centre of this large enough to take a 2 B.A. nut with a-push. Push in two nuts, one from either side, and then see if 2 B.A. screwed rod will thread easily through the two nuts. You may have to turn one slightly to produce easy threading. Then squeeze plastic wood round each nut to secure it, and leave to set. An -archshaped opening is made at the bottom of the guide by boring a hole ilrin. and then sawing off the bottom of the wood -through the centre of this hole. This arch straddles a tin. dowel rod, which should be very smooth (V), and is let into the stocks (A', A2), and glued there. This arrangement prevents the wire guide from rotating when the

line down the length of the Iin. side, and saw 'down !in. deep, Then saw perpendicular to this, to produce a 'step'. Now saw another vertical cut parallel to the first, but only 1/12il). away, Oil this' step, and take this tin.' deep, Saw perpendicularly to this thus producing .a second 'step'. On to the face of this second step is fixed a plate (K), total length.1 in. and width tin., with the top shaped as in the drawings, and a small hole drilled, for a screw, in the semicircular head. (This plate can be of metal or hard-wood, and anything up to tin. thick.) The screw through the head passes through into the face of the first step, and it is upon this shaft that the tongue or lever (L) of the clutch turns. This latter is of metal Tirin, thick, iin. long and f([in. deep, with the bearing end rounded and drilled. A second hole is drilled further along to take the (Continued on pag.e 3~8)


Bookstand Book Ends







HESE light easily made book ends are stabilised by using them to hold books themselves. The weight of the books carried by the book end stands prevents them slipping when used to hold a row of more hooks. Construction is very simple. Thickness of materia 1is not all that important although it is recommended that the backs be cut from tin. or -tin. stock,



L-.....-s "----t..-l I' ~I

These diagrams will make construction quite straightforward. the bases from tin. thick material and the side-sfrom tin. Mark out to the recto angular dimensions shown and cut accurately to shape. If you want to 'decorate' the sides with a fretted-out pattern, do this before assembling the ends. Almost any type of decorative pattern can be employed, ranging from a simple star sha pe, as shown, to a 'silhouette-type' picture. Round off the outer eorners or fret to-a scalloped outline to complete. The ends may be' assembled by glue joints alone. Check first that all the jointing faces meet accurately and' that the parts go together true and square, Cramp or block up -square whilst the glue is drying. Stain and polish the assembly to give a 'professional' finished appearance. (R.H. W.)


Folding Art Table
(Continued from page 342) separate parts, hinged together. The table is then hinged underneath to fixed part (C) is cut first, and is then nailed to 'part (C) with a pair of 2ins. iron backthe main frame and brackets. It would flap hinges. Recess these hinges to half be safer here to fix this particular part the thickness' of'their knuckles, so that before hinging the legs to the frame, as the knuckles only project below the this would ensure the legs being exactly wood. level with the frame, and not extending In both the folding legs cut out the even slightly above them. Should that shallow notches shown ill' Fig. I, ro happen they will probably jam against allow them to clear the hinges when the top (C) when opened out. opened out. What may be considered an The main table top is made up of two improvement is to glue and pin two or three boards, glued together, edge to thin strips of wood to the long sides of edge, to make the width. Smooth wood part (C), forming a shallow tray of it, in free from knots and shakes is desirable which pencils and other items can be for this part. Underneath, where shown deposited without danger of being swept by the -dotted lines, glue and nail -tin. off the table accidentally while it is in square strips. These will help to prevent use. warping, and also actas checks to preThe completed article can now be vent the legs slipping outwards. The glasspapered, and then treated to two

coats of clear varnish. Stain first if desired, but probably most readers will consider the table looks more workmanlike in its natural colours. (W.J.E.)
• ~.••• '•••••••• ~..; 'U.n, 4u ·., ·u. n ...




i i i i
; ; ; : ; : ; ; : ; :


: :

i i

frame verticals. (2) ; 2ft. 3iDS. by 3i... by liiD. Main frame top rail.I fl. 6i".. by 3in.. by lin. Main frame bottom rafl, Ht. 6iDs. by 2il1s, by lin. Strip (D). 2ft. 3iDS. by I~ln s, by iiD. Left leg verttcajs. (2) 2fl. 3i" s, by 2iDs. by tiD. Left leg top rail. Ht. 3~ins, by 3io$. by .liD. Left leg bottom rail. lit. 3!ins. by 2iDs. by tin. Right leg verticals. (2) . 2ft. 3iDs, by 2i" •• by tiD. Right leg top rail. 1ft. 2in s, by 3iDs. by tin. Right leg bottom rail. Ift, 2in s, by 2in s, by tin. Top (C). 2ft by 3'in s, by liD. Table top. 2ft. by 16in s, by fiD. Above ILst based On mortis. and tenon joints. Halved iointed frames need longer rails, SO 4io•• Should be added to maio frame



Ill. -

DEAL good approvals, nothing Given fr...,JonIy ..l'-q ~aJjtr in stamps. State COl1J!!ries int~tesle<l Shiner, Dept, S., 72 Kingsland Rd., Bcistol,2.



witn Itnis 'am(ltjng One Valve Recei ..... ~!'". Envetopa L(lnt:tlilling full' d rawlngs. working if'!$tr'uctiol:lsand clrcult. 1,1 All par-ts •. can be: ·oCt;:l;ined Is-om D-ep:r;;, H.

TAMPS. Free, catalogue over 216 !O genuine applicants for approvals. Send 3id. postage.RoY, 31 Lyndon Road, Olton, Birmingham. fot soldiers, animals, CASTING mouldscataloguelead 4d. SI.EdmundS. etc. Illustrated Sample mould


~I-.-G. Fe Rhead, Hanest,

1\. nCARAGUA 1948 Sports, Thi, grand set l'loffered absolutely free 10 approval applicants enclosing postage. Yulwontrnor Stamps (Dept, H ]), 175 Priory Road, St. Denys, So uthamptcn. ARQUETRY veneer bargain. named Mveneers 10/·. Sam pic pac ket unn20Veneer." am.d 2/6, 100 varieties ins toe k. Kirbys



Lu tee rWD rth. LsiC:5.





322 Denman

si., Nottingham.

FREE STAMPS, mainly pictorials, to all a pplicanrs enclos lng 2!d. posta go and requesting approvals. Various other free gifls,Beeze, 116 Newton Rd.,. Mumbles. SIVa nsea. IVE .fantasti.c, tri.s..ngular 'lamps .free l Simply request approvals.e=Mousley (H) Stamps, Eastwood, Nons. . DIFFERENT free stamps approvals.e-Bush, 939' Road, Bournernourh.

OPPER WIRES. enamelled, tinned, COlton, silk co vered, B.A" SCf'eWSt nu is, washers, Stamp for Ilst.~P.R.S., 33 Bourne Gardens, London. JiA. /MOULDS. TOy CASTING ltOOO varieties Soldiers, 3/~sailors, airmen, etc. from, ,ea,ch. Rubber moulding compound for flexible moulds,


MElUCAN MAGAZlN~ Subscrip.ti«ns .. . year Popular Mechanics, 32/.. Popular Science, 2816. Homecraftsman, 16/6. Popular Homeeraft, 18/·. Deitagram, 9h Free booklet quoting ethers, - Willen LId. (pep I, 57), 101 Heet Street. London, B.CA. OLL'S HOUSE fittings and papers. Send DSA,S. Tradelist.supplied.v=Zimplan,plan. 88 War" for DoWs HOllse speeial-esend 2/6. Road, Hoddesdon. RACTICAL COURSES. Books, all subject'. . British and American. Bargain List.Practical Courses, 28 Dean Road, London, N.W.2. ODELS You Mmodels .. with ~~id,~~'re!~~~~~eJ instruction le·anet. "an make lasting stone-hard Sankey.'s Pyruma Plastic B~'lld:;~'s M~~ch~~~~1~r[~; ,




lcd. upwards Christchurch

granulated ready for US", 316 per lb. Aluminium moul ds for plaster IVO rk. S. A. E. for list. Catal'ogue9d .....:..F. W. Nuthall,69 St, Marks Road, Hanwell, London, W.7. TAMPS FREE.-Empire Packet including Pictorials. and Victorian; with approval s, Robert J. Peck,. 7A Kemp Road. Bournemouth.


HELL CRAFT. Beautiful ormer shells, Mother Pearl both 'ides. Sample doz. 41". .Al,o good mi",uresmall sea shetls, 51· Ib.Payne, Braye Rd., AJdeIney, C.1. •



EQUEST Approvals and how to get Slamf.': free. . 3d. ~o'lage.-Wotldwide, ,16H, Cu ver Rd., Leicester.



TAMPS FREE!! Twenty unused G. H. Barnett. Limington, Somerset.


LONDON 1Sa New 'Oxford. St .. W.C.1 (Phone MUSeu", 2975) 67 Old Broad Street, ·E.C,l (.lONd,," Wan 4)75) 111 W~lwo .. h Road, S.".I7 (RO Oney 5509) SI.. Streatham Hill. S.W.l (TU l.e Hill 8796) GLASGOW-316 Argyle Stre~'· (F hone ce N(raf 5041) MANCHESTER-.IO Piccad.iIly· (F hone ce Ntra·1 1181) BI.RMINGHAM-14 Bull Ri'~g ~H EFFIELD-4 St. Paul'. Parada . (Phone lo011) l86l9) H U lL-IOParagon Squa"" SOUTHAMPTON - 2S Bernard S·t. BRISTOl-lO Narrow Wine Stteet.
(Phone 23144) LEED,S~I


UPLEX Self-adhesive Transfers for deeorating, fancy goo ds, trays, pi ast ics, etc, List and sam pies 3d .-H. A x On H" "';'0", Jersey, BOO,KS FOR THE WOODWORKER With htLle expe-t'ier.II:'e, who wishes to turn, hi~ hob-by to the best advantage. PQ!ishing Your Woodwork. Outdoor W,oedHorne Hobbies in W·ood. Wood ... cat'·ving:For Beginners. St'rong Wooden Toy" Fullr 11I".!roeo~. LIST STAMP
wo r-k. Make Your Own Furnttur@.


·A GRAND BOOK FOR All TH:~" FAMll Y. The "Kaylee re.c Book ot B';g~, Ideas". Ar •• Hy helpful guide ee etc.
decoration. Hcbbie s. COYi, K.atl(!:~ Tr-andt!r,; in, brflllanr co'lc~;!ij ~n~ mt~'St eff~c..uve uses. From Hobbies StOCkl$C$., ,. OF direct. KAYlEE TRANSFER.S Peerage 3d. homo

Show~ng -ramous



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IS Harben



OR SALs.-::-PJsslic, Olive Sheets 8ft. x4fL 9d. poI. sq. ft.; carriage forward. Minimum lots 10 .heets.-Apply Box No ... 7, Hobbies Weekly, Dereham, Norfolk.



Queen (phon"



fl. of 141bs, lest fishing Line complete with handy reel. Send P.o. 216 ; po'lage~ etc., 4dr-Shin ..r Dept. F., 72 Kingsland Rd.. Bri'tol. 2.


ONJURJNG. Illustrated catalogue of magic 6d.-De Hempsey, 36] Sandycombe, Ke'l' Gardens, Surrey.


LYWOOD OFFCUT'S. New, good sizes, £1 • cwt, delivered C. W.O.-H. 'Leader (1920). Gos ford St., Mi ddles brough,

Suppliers' for ever 18 years af Radio S. W. Recejvers of" Quali~y.
The RoyaIYoc.~1


Valve Kit, Price loS.!-.

Two Valve Kit, Price


'Mtcrcmodel rapltcas of beautltuT Mechilniul •.Arcihitectural and other Subjects has become ::!I ser-ious curt. 0,['11 spedal cards, units :read~ly shaped arid alSe m bt ed~ Mod.:! Is au eh enrle in eve t''I ~" .. [I, Con a few pell'lclI!!,eften sell,fer guineas. . • Buirding


Irn~pjovcd designs 'with Dcnco cot Is. AU kies c?:mplete w,it'~ aU compo~crit'5. accessories and full lnstrucec.u. Bcfcr-ecrdering, call ~nd Inspect a de.['fll?naeraelon receiver, or send searnped addressed envelope for descriptive catalogue.


1.1 Old




W ..I·



Men and women wanted to make Bennett Model Bungalows at Home.

Send ,(.",pod addre".d en'Yelope ·'lllustr·;)It,ed LIS!.


MICROMODELS lTD., RIIC.qUe't C'ourt, ,londun.,

J (H) E.C.4.

rng.deo No


n' well ~~ id work invo/ve<l.

Send """,pod addre sse d env.l~pe (or full dotai/s, BENNETT MODEl.S, Rid'mond, S~rray




PAGE 345

An Easily Made Coil- Winuer
the spring, and so control the moverivet (R) which holds one end of the ment of the bobbin as it presses against spring, as shown. K screw can be it. utilized for this, as an alternative-screw This completes all the assemblies with in tight, solder, and then file off tbe point the exception of the driving belts at the back. A screw is inserted at the (Fig. 10), These are of leather or rubber. bottom of the plate (K) to hold the It will be notic~d that one, the -inside lower end of the spring, Half-way down the centra) line on the: one, is a straightforward d ri ve, driving the two wheels it connects in the same side of the block bore a hole big enough direction. The outside one is' crossed to take a 2 B.A. nut, but only deep over in II figure-eight style, thus moving enough to take about three-quarters of the two wheels in contrary directions. its height. This means that the nut, This belt should be of round section. when inserted, projects about ,!\-10. Do rhe same for the other side, then bore a -iiin. hole clean through the wood -for The Theory of the Winder - the-brass rod to pass through, Take a portion of- screwed rod and The stocks (A I, A2) are. made as press it hard down on some white paper, previously, that is, of tin. ply and Iin. thus leaving an imprint of the thread. spar, both 11:in5. wide. The height, of Count the number of indentations there course, depends ,on the size of pulley are to the inch. 10 this case you will find wheels decided on. (See later.) there are thirty-three approximately. The whole guide assembly is put This means that a nut turning on the rod together as follows. First thread a nut on will have to rotate thirty-two times to to the screwed brass rod, then add the move forward Iin. In om ca.:>e,as the clutch, then another nut. Leave about nut is prevented from rotating, then the l-tins. of brass rod projecting. Tighten screwed rod would turn thirty-two times up the nuts from both sides as strongly for the wire guide part to move Iaterauy as possible, thus locking the dutch on lin. to the screwed rod. You can also bed in So, if the diameter of the pulleys were the nuts with plastic .wood if need be. alike, so that the rod of the rotator and Now, over the short end of the rod, the rod of the guide assembly moved place a washer; next, the lin. or Itins. spacer, and theo, on to this, the end- round at the same rate, then a coil could be wound with wire of such a pulley wheel. Add another washer, then gauge that it permits thirty-two turns to two nuts. These tightened up complete Iin. Reference to data tables shows this end of tbe assembly. See, however, that gauge 22 enamelled wire would do that the pulley can turn freely, without perfectly. Usi ng a 2in.s. diameter former affecting clutch or rod. . Over the other end of the rod put on , and a winding 2ti_ns. long (seventy-two turns), a coil covering the medium waves a washer, spacer, pulley, another washer. can be made, which is quite a handy Then comes another spacer which acts size. Therefore, gauge 22 enamel wire is as bearing shaft through the stock (A I). recommended to the reader. It is easy to Another nut keeps this firm. The actual handle, and thick wire is more efficient wire guide part (G) is next added. After than the thin wires so often used. Morethis come a nut, a bearing spacer, the over, having the pulley wheels all the stock (A2) , and finally a washer and same size simplifies matters for the two nuts. Tighten up all the nuts. constructor, seeing that the stock is situated well to . However, there are limes when it will the end. be necessary to wind thinner wires, and The dowel rod (V) is then put in, and in this case the gear ratio must be the stocks fixed 1.0 the.baseboard, altered. Either the drums of the rotator 3. The Bobbin Assembly pulleys can be decreased in diameter or those of the guide pulleys increased in Referen.ceto Figs. 3 and 9 will make diameter. Spare pulleys of various sizes the construction of this clear. The plycould, therefore, be made to be ready wood part of the stocks should be for such emergencies. 2til)s. by_2-Fns., with holes' bored in the Thus, if the diameters of rotator and tops to take the tin. bolt on which the bobbin turns. A strip of springy metal is guide pulleys were I: 2 in ratio, this would enable sixty-four turns to 1 in. to bent into the shape seen in Fig. 9 and be dealt with. Consequently, the followfixed to the stock by a screw. At the other end of the spring, a hole is bored ing wires could be used-32 S.C.C. (sixty-three turns to Iin.), ,36 D.C.C. through the stock, and a small bolt of slightly larger diameter than the hole is (sixty-four), 30 D.S.C. (sixty-seven), 28 S.S.c. (sixty-two), and, perhaps, threaded in. Manipulation of this bolt will increase 0 r decrease the power 0 r 28 Enarn. (sixty). A few turns dis348

crepancy can be allowed, as there is a certain amount of tolerance. Again, a gear ratio of 1: 3t would give 32 by 3 -5 equals one hundred and twelve turns to lin., and this would allow the use of 36 S.S.C. (one hundred and twelve), 36 Enarn. (one hundred and sixteen), 40 S.Cc. (one hundred and twelve). Thus, by simple arithmetic, the gear ratio for any wire can be worked out. (Note that one need only alter the diameter of the drum of the pulley. The outer discs can be of a maximum size and will do for any size drum.) . Operating the Windel:' We assume the apparatus has been laid out as shown in Fig. 4. The guide assembly should be fairly dose to the rota to r. Tbe closer it is, the grea ter the control over the winding; while tolerance will increase the further away it is. The first thing to do is to attach the end of the wire 10 the coil former and fix this latter firmly 'into the rotating assembly. (It is understood, of course, tha t you have previously seen that the wire guide hookis exactly opposite and in line with the point where the wire enters the coil former.) The wire is passed through the hook and the bobbin set into its holder. Set the clutch so that the lever engages the inside pulley, and winding tan commence. It is essential that the wire should have a fair amount of tension in it, and the .control bolt (A) Fig, 9, on the bobbin holder, should be tightened to brake the bobbin's movement. In winding transformers, when you have come to the end of one layer, stop winding, and flip over the clutch lever on to the opposite pulley, thus reversing the movement of the wire guide when winding again starts. Do this at the end of each layer. A mechanical counter can be fitted at the end of the rotator spindle to count the turns. Otherwise, ascertain the gearing ratio of the drill. As an example, if the geari ng is 4, and the coi I needs sixty-four turns, then one' need only count sixteen turns of the drill wheel, J n conclusion, as an alternative to the simple arrangement given in Fig. 6 for holding and centring the coil-former, one can adopt a couple of cone forms which will centre automatically. From Hins. by tin. batten, saw off two pieces' 2tins. long. Cut these in two diagonally, to give four triangles, and fix these to the holding disc with screws, at right angles to each other, a seen in Fig. 11. Such a cone will hold coil-formers up to 4ins. in diameter. (A.F.)





*.-4 melts '11_'~ with a





Whether you are a stud en t for an examination, starting a new hobby, intent upon in industry or running your - these Practi cal Courses You-and may be yours at a career own business are intended for very moderate, COSt.


>II £1 A MONTK. With these .outflts, which you receive upon enrolment. you are given instructions which teach you in easy stages the basic principles of tne subject concerned. A tutor gives individual hel p and gu idance throughout the Course. COURSES WITH PRACTICAL EQUIPMENT INCLUDE:-R.dio (Element.r, and Advanced), Television. MechaniC$t ElaCfricity, Chemiury. Ph-otQ.. gnphYi Carpenrrv. Atso Draui:htsmaillhip, Commerelal Art. Amateur S.W. Rad lc, tan iUiige.s, etc. _ r THIS COUPON rODAr I Send me you r ~REE book on Prac leal Courses. . I I To E,M.1. INSnTUTES. Dept. 'IX. 43 Grove i I Park Road. Chi.wieK, London. W.4.



MULT!CORE TAPE SOLDER is the modern method of soldering. in house or we rkshop, rep lacin g so lder stick, j ro 11 a nd ~ep,ara te flux. A card

OC%;' ,o,~;~;~o;,;c&



The only Postal Co/legewhkh is 'wide Industrial
organisation. part


,,",oM. ~

ow. write to , Multloore$olders Ltd .. Multioore Works, Hemel Hampstead, Herts (BelmeDI' 363&)


I~::;;;=:::==:==::===== I

of a world-


m £) m~~~


Teiephona: LANgham 115112 TERMS OF BUSINESS ,; Cash ...Ith order, lor C.O.D. POst uems only) ; oJ] order, for small items totalling over £2 post free unles, otherwise stated.

(Dept. H.W.), 42, TOTTEN HAM CT. RD., LONDON, W.I

Its A 'Ptt,uIlM/




We can supply all the carts (including valves, Sin. moving cell speaker. cabinet, chassis and _ everything down !O the ~':,'~bl~u~OaUdIO t~ Iliii p r cfess ion at-Io okj ng radio a! a total cost of '


gj. .

to use the New



plus p. & c. 216. _ 1 his is a Jevalve plus metal rectifier T.R,F_ Receiver with a valve line-up as follows, 6K.7 or.p.), 6J7 (Det.) and 6V6 (Output). The dial is illuminatoo and when assembled the receiver presents a very attractive appearance. Col' oro g. j, for t b 0 medium and [on g w ave bands, Operat •• on 200/250 "011 A.C. mains. TIt. chassis is punched and drilled ready to mount the components. There is a choice of an).' of three attractive cabinets 12in., long, SiD. wide by 6in_ high as fol lows : either Ivory or Brown Bakelite. Wooden. finished in walnut. Complete and easy 10 follow point 10 point. and circuit wiring di agrams su PP1ied. C trcutt diagrams and priced parts list avaiiabie sepcrasety Ij,equiredat II·. ALL COMPONENTS GUARANTEED ONE YEAR 1'0 those who want the above Receiver £6/19/6 plus 316 pkg., carr., ins. ready buil; we can supply It at

Heated sl m ply by filling Container with boiling

water. Clean and convenlent for all hobbies.
Croid No. 22 adhesive

cap for economical

e« DOUBLE M" MAXIMUM POWER WITH MINIMUM CONSUMPTION This. excellent motor provides the esserulal power - at lower consumption ihan any other Electric Motor available - to drive Model Boals; Racing Cars ; Lorries; Railway Engines up to!) Gauge. 40' ~ ere, For POSE prJid use with lV. 4·SV. Or 6V. batteries, BRAND NEW hi mam4actur'{!ys' box complet« with instTUC,. , 110 'If the special price 0/ ns





7/1 I


for light work, with novel spreader

seves time and money





..... ,y


OF j\>lENin important positions were once students of The Bennett College. They owe their success to Personal Postal Tuition- The Bennett College way. You have the same chance to qualify for a fine career, higher pay and social standing. HOUSANDS

can help you to success· through personal postal tuition T
One of these courses will lead to your advancement

SKARSTEN SCRAPERS for handicrafts -If your hobby is woodwork, you need a -Skarsten Scraper for smooth finishing. It is the most efficient smoothing tool ever designed and gives a finish superior to the old-type steel scraper and glasspaper, A NEW CONSTRUCTIONAL CRAFf Toy animals, birds and reptiles of prehistoric appearance made from offcuts from the manufacture of Skarsten Scrapers. No otaer material required but sandpaper, liquid glue and enamel colours. SKARSTEN MANUFACTURING CO_ LID. Welwyn Garden City, Herts.

Architecture Air-craft

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Electrjc Wiring

Machine O(!sign Mechanical Engineering Motor Enginoei"ing Plumbing Power Station Engineering Preu Tool Work Gen es-a I Ed u catj on Geography Journa!ism Langu~ges Mathematic!!:. Modern BU$iness Methods

Quantity Surv.eying Radio Ens:inee ring Road Makinll Sanitation Steam Engi neering Surveying Telecommunications Television Tex,tiles Wireless Telegraphy Works Manat;ement Workshop Practic~

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P.ubllc Speaking Police Subjects Salesmansnip Secretarial Exams. Shorthand Short Story Writing and many o~her5

Handy, Economical


Evolved to suit the special needs of the model maker, Stadon in tubes is just right for that small or multi-colour job (up to 8 sq. ft.) Quick drying, leaving no brush marks, it gives the superlative finish worthy of the modeller's pride in his craft.


{or a free prospectus 011 .I,our sublect. Just choose your (:OUTse1 fit! in the coupon and post.

I I Please send I SUBJ BCT_ ...._ I I IADDRESS
NA ME _ ••. ,

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me free your prospectus on:
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Trade Enquiries welcomed by du ma~ers



N D -0 N·





~---------~-------------------------~-----------------"My worksh;opis equipped with








home workshop of today should be fitted with a Hoover F.H.P,. motor - the motor for reliable power. The Hoover' fractional' has everything "the hobbyist needs .dependability, durability and adaptaPrecision made and modern in design, the Hoover F.H.P., motor is an essential piece of equipment for the hobbyist who wants 10-have an up-

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to-date aod efficient

Forfull details write to:-


COLOUR RANGE ~LOS,S'y~ Deep O,range~Signal :Red, C,rim:lon, Sky BlulI!!,Azu~e B'lu,e, Browni ,Dark AdmiraltY' (irey t C're_iiLm, C-ana ... Ye I~o~'~ y Emerald Green, Alumini um, G,oldt,
Black. Whit e,



Mart ~

Cllmouflag'E!, Y~II"w, Duck

Cam ouftage Gree n, Brow~, T'raine~ Egg Blue. R,,,d, Dark Gre,)'

M':a.nufactu red by ~

0'1;;. CO., LTD. MARrL.E.ET,·


Printed, by BALDING & MJiNSl!!..L, LTD." London and Wisbe$, and Published for the Proprietors HOBI.tIES LTD" by HOa;,CB MARSHALL& SON, LTl) .. Temple House, TalW. Street, 1;!,C.4, Sole Agents for Australia and New Zealand: Gordon & Go,eh (A'sia) Lrd, For S'outh Africa: Central News A:;ency Ltd. Registered for rranamieaion bll Csnadia n Ma~e Post,

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